gave encrease to another towne of the same name whereof the greater part also being drowned and made even with the sea is no more to bee seene and the commodiousnesse of the haven by reason of bankes and bars of sand cast up at the rivers mouth quite gone whereas in foregoing times it was wont to carrie ships with full saile as farre as to Brember which is a good way from the sea This Brember was a castle sometime of the Breoses For King William the first gave it unto William de Breose from whom those Breoses are descended who were Lords of Gower and Brechnok and from them also both in this County and in Leicestershire are come the Families of the Shirleys Knights But now in stead of a Castle there is nothing but an heape of rubble and ruines A little from this Castle lieth Stening a great mercate and at certaine set daies much frequented which in Aelfrids will unlesse I be deceived is called Steningham in latter times it had a Cell of Black-Monkes wherein was enshrined S. Cudman an obscure Saint and visited by pilgrimes with oblations That ancient place also called PORTVS ADVRNI as it seemeth is scarce three miles from this mouth of the river where when the Saxons first troubled our sea with their piracies the Band called Exploratorum under the Roman Emperours kept their Station but now it should seeme to bee choked and stopped up with huge heapes of beach gathered together For that this was Ederington a pretie village which the said Aelfred granted unto his younger sonne both the name remaining in part and also certaine cottages adjoyning now called Portslade that is The way to the Haven doe after a sort perswade to say nothing how easily they might land heere the shore being so open and plaine And for the same cause our men in the reigne of King Henrie the Eighth did heere especially wait for the Frenchmens gallies all the while they hovered on our coasts and upon the sudden set one or two cottages on fire at Brighthelmsted which our ancestours the Saxons termed 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the very next road or harbour thereunto Some few miles from hence there dischargeth it selfe into the sea a certaine river that hath no name arising out of S. Leonards forrest neere unto Slaugham the habitation of the Coverts who in King Henrie the third his daies flourished in this quarter with the degree of Knight-hood thence by Cackfield to Linfeld where in former ages was a small Nunnery and so by Malling some-time a Manour appurtaining to the Archbishops of Canterburie to Lewis which peradventure hath his name of pastures called by the English Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 This for frequencie of people and greatnesse is reputed one of the chiefest townes of the County Seated it is upon a rising almost on every side That it hath beene walled there are no apparant tokens Southward it hath under it as it were a great suburb called South-over another Westward and beyond the river a third Eastward called Cliffe because it is under a chalkie cliffe In the time of the English Saxon government when King Athelstan made a Law that money should not be coyned but in good townes he appointed two minters or coyners for this place In the reigne of King Edward the Confessor it paid sixe pounds and foure shillings de Gablo et Theloneo The King had there one hundred twenty seven Burgars Their custome and manner was this If the King minded to send his souldiers to sea without them of all them whose lands soever they were was collected twenty shillings and all those had they that in their ships kept armour Who selleth an horse within the Burgh giveth to the Provost one penny and the buier another For an oxe or cow one halfe penny in what place so ever he buieth within the Rape He that sheddeth bloud maketh amends for seven shillings Hee that committeth adulterie or a rape for eight shillings and foure pence and the woman as much The King hath the Adulterer The Archbishop the woman when the mint or money is made new every minter giveth twentie shillings Of all these paiments two third parts went to the King and one third part to the Earle William de Warren the first Earle of Surrie built here a large Castle on the highest ground for most part with flint and chalke In the bottom of the towne called Southover he founded to the honour and memory of Saint Pancrace a Priorie and stored it with Cluniach Monkes In regard of the holinesse religion and charitie which he found in the Monasterie of Clugni in Burgundie for these be the words taken out of the very originall instrument of the foundation Whiles going in pilgrimage together with his wife for religion he turned in and lodged there But this is now turned into a dwelling house of the Earle of Dorset Howbeit there remaine still in the towne sixe Churches amongst which not farre from the Castle there standeth one little one all desolate and beset with briers and brambles in the walles whereof are ingraven in arched worke certaine rude verses in an old and over-worne character which implie thus much that one Magnus descended from the bloud roiall of the Danes who imbraced a solitarie life was there buried But behold the verses themselves imperfect though they be and gaping as I may so say with the very yawning joynts of the stones Which peradventure should be thus read Clauditur hic miles Danorum regia proles Magnus nomen ei magnae nota progeniei Deponens Magnum prudentior induit agnum Praepete pro vita fit paruulus Anachorita A noble Knight Sir Magnus hight a name of great of-spring Is shut up here Though borne he were in line of Danish King He wiser man Puts Agnus on and laies downe Magnus quite For swift life this Become he is a little Anchorite About 346. yeeres since this place became famous for the mortall and bloudie battaile betweene K. Henrie the third and the Barons in which the prosperous beginning of the fight on the kings side was the overthrow of the kings forces For whiles prince Edward the kings son breaking by force through certain of the Barons troups carelesly pursued the enemies over far as making sure account of the victory the Barons having reinforced themselves giving a fresh charge so discomfited and put to flight the Kings armie that they constrained the King to accept unequall conditions of peace and to deliver his sonne Prince Edward with others into their hands From Lewis the river as it descendeth so swelleth that the bottom cannot containe it and therefore maketh a large mere and is fed more full with a brooket falling from Laughton a seat of Pelhams a family of especiall respect by Gline that is in the British tongue the vale the habitation of Morleyes whose antiquitie the name doth testifie And afterward albeit it gathereth
fore-token of justice having the knot of white silke made in forme of a crosse with an hood upon their left shoulder But of these complements which my purpose was not to prosecute in particular this may bee thought sufficient if not superfluous Now as touching those Knights who simply without any addition bee called Knights and howsoever they are in order ranged last yet by institution they be first and of greatest Antiquitie For as the Romans a gowned nation gave unto them that were entring into mans estate a virile and plaine gowne without welt or gard even so the Germans our Ancestors bestowed upon their young men whom they judged meet for to manage armes armour and weapons Which Cornelius Tacitus will informe you of in these words of his The manner was not for any one to take armes in hand before the State allowed him as sufficient for Martiall service And then in the very assembly of Counsell either some one of the Princes or the father of the young man or one of his kinsfolke furnish him with a shield and a javelin This with them standeth in stead of a virile gowne this is the first honour done to youth before this they seeme to bee but part of a private house but now within a while members of the Common-weale And seeing that such military young men they termed in their language as we in ours Knechts from them I deeme the originall both of name and institution also ought to be fetched This was the first and most simple manner of creating a Knight this the Lombards this the Frankes this our countrymen all descended out of Germanie in old time used Paulus Diaconus reporteth thus among the Lombards This is the Custome that the Kings sonne dineth not with his father unlesse hee receive Armes before from some King of a forraine nation The Annals of France record that the Kings of the Franks gave armes unto their sonnes and to others and girded them with a sword yea and our Aelfred as William of Malmesburie witnesseth when he dubbed Athelstan his nephew Knight being a child of great hope gave him a scarlet mantle a belt or girdle set with precious stones and a Saxon-sword with a golden scabberd Afterwards when as religion had possessed mens minds so as that they thought nothing well fortunately done but what came from Church-men our Ancestors a little before the Normans comming received the Sword at their hands And this Ingulphus who lived in those daies sheweth in these words He that was to be cōsecrated unto lawfull warfare should the evening before with a contrite heart make confession of his sinnes unto the Bishop Abbat Monke or Priest and being absolved give himselfe to prayer and lodge all night in the Church and when hee was to heare divine service the morrow after offer his sword upon the Altar and after the Gospel the Priest was to pu◠the sword first hallowed upon the Knights neck with his Benediction and so when hee had heard Masse againe and received the Sacrament he became a lawfull Knight Neither grew this custome out of use streight waies under the Normans For John of Sarisburie writeth in his Polycraticon thus A solemne Custome was taken up and used that the very day when any one was to be honoured with the girdle of knighthood hee should solemnly goe to Church and by laying and offering his Sword upon the Altar vow himselfe as it were by making a solemne profession to the service of the Altar that is to say promise perpetuall service and obsequious dutie unto the Lord. Peter also of Blois writeth thus At this day young Knights and souldiers receive their Swords from the Altar that they might professe themselves Sonnes of the Church and to have taken the Sword for defence of the poore for punishment and revenge of malefactors and delivery of their Country But in processe of time saith he it is turned cleane contrary For in these daies since they are become adorned with the Knights cincture presently they arise against the Annointed of the Lord and rage upon the patrimonie of Christ crucified And as for this ceremonie that they would be girt with a Sword it may seeme no doubt to have proceeded from the militarie discipline of the Romans because as they denied it unlawfull to fight with their enemie before they were bound to their militarie oath by a drawn sword even so our Forefathers thought they might not go to warfare lawfully before they were by this ceremonie lawfully authorised according to which wee reade that William Rufus King of England was dubbed Knight by Lanfranke the Archbishop But this custome by little and little grew to disuse since the time that the Normans as Ingulphus writeth laughed and scorned at it and in a Synode at Westminster An. 1102. a Canon passed That no Abbats should dubbe Knights which some notwithstanding expound thus That Abbats should grant no lands of the Church to be held by Knights service or in Knights fee or service Afterwards Kings were wont to send their sonnes unto the neighbour Princes to receive Knighthood at their hands thus was our K. Henrie the Second sent unto David King of the Scots and Malcolme King of Scots unto our Henry the Second and our Edward the first unto the King of Castile to take of them Militarie or Virile armes for these termes and phrases they used in that age for the creation of a Knight Then it was also that besides the sword and girdle gilt spurres were added for more ornament whereupon at this day they are called in Latin Equites aurati Moreover they had the priviledge to weare use a signet for before they were dubbed knights as I gather out of Abendon Booke it was not lawfull to use a seale Which writing quoth he Richard Earle of Chester purposed to signe with the seale of his mother Ermentrud considering that all Letters which he directed for as yet he had not taken the Militarie girdle were made up and closed within his mothers signet In the age ensuing knights as it may be well collected were made by their wealth and state of living For they which had a great knights Fee that is if wee may beleeve old records 680. akers of land claimed as their right the ornaments and badges of knighthood Nay rather under Henry the Third they were compelled after a sort to be knights as many as in revenues of their lands might dispend fifteen pounds by the yeare so as now it seemed a title of burden rather than of honour In the yeare 1256. there went out an edict from the King by vertue whereof commandement was given proclamation made throughout the Realme that whosoever had fifteen pounds in land and above should be dight in his armes and endowed with knighthood to the end that England as well as Italie might be strengthned with Chivalrie and they that would not or were not able to maintaine the honour
memory I will briefly runne them over Neere to Linne upon an high hill standeth Rising-castle almost marchable to the Castle of Norwich the seat in times past of the Albineys afterwards of Robert de Monthault by one of the sisters and coheires of Hugh Albiney Earle of Arundell and at last the mansion place of the Mowbrays who as I have learned came out of the same house that the Albineys did But now after long languishings as it were by reason of old age the said Castle hath given up the ghost Below it is Castle-acre where was sometimes the habitation of the Earles of Warren in a Castle now halfe downe on a little Rivers side which carrying no name ariseth not farre from Godwicke a lucky good name where there stands a small house but greatly graced by the Lord thereof Sir Edward Coke Knight a man of rare endowments of nature and as in the Common lawes much practised so of deepe insight therein which all England both tooke knowledge of whiles hee discharged the function of Atturney Generall many yeares most learnedly and now acknowledgeth whiles being Lord Chiefe Justice of the Common Pleas he administreth justice as uprightly and judiciously Neither is he lesse to be remembred for that he loveth learning and hath well deserved of the present and succeeding ages by his learned labours This Riveret or brooke with a small streame and shallow water runneth Westward to Linne by Neirford that gave name to the Family of the Neirfords famous in times past and by Neirborrough where neere unto the house of the Spilmans knights upon a very high hill is to be seene a warlike Fort of passing great strength and of ancient worke so situated as it hath a very faire prospect into the Country about it After upon the said Brooke is seated Penteney a prety Abbay the ordinary buriall place in ancient time of the Noblemen and Gentlemen in this Tract Neere unto it lieth Wormegay commonly Wrongey which Reginald de Warren brother of William de Warren the second Earle of Surry had with his wife of whom as I have read the said Earle had the donation or Maritagium as they use to speake in the law phrase and by his sonnes daughter streightwayes it was transferred to the Bardolphs who being Barons of great nobility flourished a long time in honorable state and bare for their Armes Three Cinque-foiles or in a Shield Azâ—r The greatest part of whose Inheritance together with the Title came to Sir William Phellips and by his daughter passed away to the Vicount Beaumont More Eastward are seated Swaffham a Mercat Towne of good note sometime the Possession of the Earle of Richmond Ashele Manour by Tenure whereof the Hastings and Greies Lords of Ruthin had the charge of table clothes and linnen used at the solemne Coronation of the Kings of England North Elmham the Bishops See for a good time when as this Province was divided into two Dioceses Dereham wherein Withburga King Annas daughter was buried whom because shee was piously affected farre from all riotous excesse and wanton lightnesse our Ancestours accounted for a Saint Next unto which is Greshenhall and adjoyning thereto Elsing the possessions in ancient time of the Folliots men of great worth and Dignity which in right of dowry came by a daughter of Richard Folliot to Sir Hugh de Hastings descended out of the Family of Abergevenny and at length by the daughters and heires of Hastings the last Greshenhall aforesaid fell unto Sir Hamon le Strange of Hunstanton and Elsing unto William Browne the brother of Sir Antonie Browne the first Vicount Mount-acute In this quarter also is Ick-borrough which Talbot supposeth to have beene that ICIANI whereof Antonine speaketh Neither have I cause to write any more of these places And now I thinke it is good time to set downe the Earles and Dukes of Northfolke that I may proceed to Cambridgeshire William the Conquerour made one Raulph Governour of East-England that is to say of Norfolke Suffolke and Cambridgeshire who forthwith gaping as I said after an alteration and change in the State was dispossessed of that place After certaine yeares in the Raigne of Stephen Hugh Bigod was Earle of Norfolke For when peace was concluded betweene Stephen and Henry Duke of Anjou who became afterwards King Henry the second by expresse words it was provided that William King Stephens sonne should have the whole Earledome of Norfolke excepting among other things The third peny of that County whereof Hugh Bigod was Earle Whom notwithstanding King Henry the Second created Earle againe of the third peny of Norfolke and Norwich Who dying about the 27. yeare of Henry the Second Roger his sonne succeeded who for what cause I know not obtained at the hands of King Richard the first a new Charter of his creation Him succeeded his sonne Hugh who tooke to his wife Mawde the eldest daughter and one of the heires of William Marescall Earle of Pembroch By whom he had issue one sonne named Roger Earle of Norfolke and Marescall of England who at Tournament having his bones put out of joint died without issue and another called Hugh Bigod Lord chiefe Justice of England slaine in the battaile of Lewis whose sonne Roger succeeded his Uncle in the Earldome of Norfolke and dignity of Marescall but having incurred through his insolent contumacy the high displeasure of King Edward the First was compelled to passe away his honors and well neere his whole inheritance into the Kings hands to the use of Thomas of Brâ—therton the Kings son whom he had begotten of his second wife Margaret sister to Philip the Faire King of France For thus reporteth the History out of the Library of Saint Austens in Canterbury In the yeare 1301. Roger Bigod Earle of Norfolke ordained King Edward to bee his heire and hee delivered into his hands the rod of the Marshals Office with this condition that if his wife brought him any children he should without all contradiction receive againe all from the King and hold it peaceably as before and the King gave unto him a 1000. pounds in money and a thousand pound land during his life together with the Marshalship and the Earldome But when he was departed this life without issue King Edward the Second honoured the said Thomas of Brotherton his brother according to the conveiance aforesaid with the Titles of Marshall and Earle of Norfolke Whose daughter Margaret called Marshallesse and Countesse of Norfolke wife to Iohn Lord Segrave king Richard the Second created in her absence Dutchesse of Norfolke for terme of life and the same day created Thomas Mowbray the daughters sonne of the said Margaret then Earle of Notingham the first Duke of Norfolke To him and his heires males unto whom he had likewise granted before the State and stile of Earle Marshall of England This is hee that before the king was challenged and accused by Henry of Lancaster Duke
Family then a most other Within a little whereof standeth Stoneley where King Henry the Second founded an Abbay and just over against it stood in old time a Castle upon Avon called Stoneley-holme built in Holmeshull which was destroyed when the flaming broiles of Danish Warres under king Canutus caught hold of all England Then runneth Avon unto the principall Towne of the whole Shire which wee call Warwicke the Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Ninnius and the Britans Caer Guarvic and Caer Leon. All which names considering they seeme to have sprung from Guarth a British word which signifieth a Garison or from Legions that were set in certaine places for Guard and defence thereof have in some sort perswaded mee although in these Etymologies I love rather to bee a Scepticke than a Criticke that this is the very Towne of Britaine which the Romans called PRAESIDIUM where as wee finde in the Noticia or Abstract of Provinces the Captaine of the Dalmatian Horsemen abode under the command of Dux Britanniae This Cohort or Band was enrolled out of Dalmatia and to note thus much by the way such was the provident wisedome and forecast of the Romans that in all their Provinces they placed forraigne Souldiers in Garison who by reason of their diversity as well of manners as of language from the naturall Inhabitants could not joyne with them in any conspiracy for as hee writeth Nations not inured to the bridle of bondage easily otherwise start backe from the yoake imposed upon them Heereupon it was that there served in Britaine out of Africke the Moores out of Spaine the Astures and Vettones out of Germany the Batavi Nervij Tungri and Turnacenses out of Gaul the Lingones Morini and from other remoter places Dalmatians Thracians Alani c. as I will shew in their proper places But now to the matter Neither let any man thinke that the Britans got that word Guarth from the Frenchmen seeing the originall is an Hebrew word if wee may beleeve Lazius and in that Originall most Nations doe accord But that this was PRAESIDIUM that is The Garison Towne both the Authority of our Chronicles teacheth which report that the Romane Legions had their aboad heere and the site also it selfe in the very navell and mids almost of the whole Province doth imply For equally distant it is of the one side from the East Coast of Norfolke and on the other side from the West of Wales which kinde of situation PRAESIDIUM a Towne of Corsica had standing just in the middest of the Island And no marvaile is it that the Romans kept heere Garison and a standing Company of Souldiers seeing it standeth over the River Avon upon a steepe and high Rocke and all the passages into it are wrought out of the very stone That it was fortified with a Wall and Ditches it is apparent and toward the South West it sheweth a Castle passing strong as well by Nature as handy-worke the seat in times past of the Earles of Warwicke The Towne it selfe is adorned with faire houses and is much bound to Ethelfled Lady of the Mercians who repaired it when as it was greatly decaied in the yeere 911. In very good state also it was upon the Normans entring into this land and had many Burgesses as they tearme them and twelve of them as wee finde written in King William the Conquerours Domesday Booke Were bound to accompany the King of England into his Warres He that upon warning given went not paid an hundred Shillings to the King but if the King made a voyage by sea against his enemies they sent either foure Boteswans or foure pound of Deniers In this Burgh the King hath in his Demeines one hundred and thirteene Burgesses and the Kings Barons have an hundred and twelve Roger the second of the Normans bloud Earle of Warwicke built afterwards in the very heart of the Towne a most beautifull Church to the blessed Virgin Mary Which the Beauchamps that succeeded adorned with their Tombes but especially Richard Beauchamp Earle of Warwicke and Governour of Normandy who dyed at Roan in the yeere 1439. and after a sumptuous funerall solemnized in this Church lyeth entombed in a magnificent Tombe with this Inscription Pray devoutly for the soule whom God assoile of one of the most worshipfull Knights in his daies of Manhood and cunning Richard Beauchampe late Earle of Warwicke Lord Despenser of Bergavenny and of many other great Lordships whose body resteth heere under this Tombe in a full faire Vault of stone set in the bare Roche The which visited with long sicknesse in the Castle of Rohan therein deceased full Christianly the last day of April in the yeere of our Lord God 1439. Hee being at that time Lieutenant Generall of France and of the Dutchie of Normandie by sufficient authority of our Soveraigne Lord King Henry the sixth The which body by great deliberation and worshipfull conduct by sea and land was brought to Warwick the fourth of October the yeere abovesaid and was laid with full solemne exequies in a faire Chest made of stone in the West Doore of this Chappell according to his last Will and Testament therein to rest till this Chappell by him devised in his life were made the which Chappell founded on the Roche and all the members thereof his Executors did fully make and apparell by the authority of his said last Will and Testament And thereafter by the said authority they did translate worshipfully the said body into the Vault aforesaid Honoured be God therefore Neere unto Warwicke Northward is Blaclow hill to be seene on which Piers de Gaveston whom King Edward the Second had raised from a base and low estate to bee Earle of Cornwall was by the Nobles of the Kingdome beheaded who presuming of the Kings favor and fortunes indulgence tooke unto him so great and licencious liberty that when he had once corrupted the Kings heart hee despised all the best men and proudly seized upon the estates of many and as hee was a crafty and old beaten Fox sowed discords and variance betweene the Prince and the Peeres of the Realme Under this hill hard by the River Avon standeth Guy-cliffe others call it Gib-cliffe the dwelling house at this day of Sir Thomas Beau-foe descended from the ancient Normans line and the very seat it selfe of pleasantnesse There have yee a shady little Wood cleere and cristall Springs mossie bottomes and caves medowes alwaies fresh and greene the River rumbling heere and there among the stones with his streame making a milde noise and gentle whispering and besides all this solitary and still quietnesse things most gratefull to the Muses Heere as the report goes that valiant knight and noble Worthy so much celebrated Sir Guy of Warwicke after hee had borne the brunt of sundry troubles and atchieved many painfull exploits built a Chappell led an Eremits life and in the end was buryed Howbeit wiser men doe thinke
old 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Lovers and Studious of the Greekes grounding their reason upon few French words of that Idiome which retaine some markes and tokens of the Greek tongue if Hadrian Junius joyeth no lesse because in the Belgicke words there ly covertly Greek Etymologies then may the Britaines make their boast in whose language many words there be derived from the Greeks Howbeit Sir Thomas Smith Knight sometime Secretary to Queene Elizabeth a man most learned every way thinketh verily that this hapned thereupon for that when all Europe besides was much troubled and shaken with wars very many of the Greeks flocked hither for refuge as it were into a sanctuary Thus have you as touching the Originall and name of Britaine mine error or coniecture whether you wil which if it swerve from the truth I wish it were by the truth it selfe reformed In this intricate and obscure study of antiquitie it is thought praise-worthy somewhat to erre and remember we should withall that such things as at the first sight being slightly thought upon are deemed false after a better review and further consideration oftentimes seeme true Now if any man should summon me to appeare before the Tribunall of Verity I have no other answer at all to make And as for our countrimen the Britans such as be of the learneder sort I doe most earnestly beseech and desire them to employ all their labour industry wit and understanding in the searching out hereof so lgog untill at last the truth with her owne cleare bright beames may scatter and dissolve all mists of conjectures whatsoever THE MANERS AND CVSTOMES OF THE BRITAINES AS concerning the Britaines what Acts at the first they exploited what forme of common-wealth they used after what orders and lawes they lived M. Daniel Rogers a very good man excellently well learned and my especiall friend promised in his writings to informe us but for that he beeing cut off by untimelie death hath performed nothing take here these few notes as touching their ancient maners and customes collected word for word out of ancient authors Caesar. The Britans use for their money brazen pieces or rings of iron duly weighed and tried to a certaine just poize To taste of hare hen and goose they thinke it unlawfull howbeit these they keepe for their delight and pleasure Of them all these are most civill and curteous by far that dwell in Kent which is a country altogether lying upon the sea coast neither doe these Inhabitants differ much in custome from the Gaules The Inlanders for the most part sow no corne but live of milke and flesh and clad themselves in skins But the Britans all in generall depaint themselves with wood that maketh a blew colour and hereby they are the more terrible to their enemies in fight The haire of their heads they weare long and shave all parts of the body saving the head and upper lip Ten or twelve of them together use their wives in common and especially brethren partake with brethren and parents with their children but looke what children they beare theirs they are reputed who first married them virgins In battell for the most part they were wont to employ their chariotiers First these ride about into all parts of the battell and fling darts and with the very fearefull sight of horse and with the ratling noise of the wheeles they doe most part breake the rankes and put them in disarray and when they have once wound themselves within the troopes of the horsemen they alight from their chariots and fight on foot The chariot-guiders in the meane time depart a little out of the medly and bestow themselves so that if the other be overcharged with the multitude of enemies they may readily and without let retyre in safetie Thus in their battels they performe the nimble motion of horsemen and steadinesse of footmen by daily practise and experience so ready in their service that they were wont to stay in the declivity of a steepe hill their horses being in their full carriere quickly turne short and moderate their pace runne along the spire-pole and beame of the chariot rest upon the yoke of and harnesse of their steeds and from thence leape againe into the chariots most speedily at their pleasure These chariotiers would retire also many times of purpose and when they had trained and drawne our men a little way off from their legions dismount from their chariots and encounter them on foot having thereby the vantage of them in flight Furthermore they never fought thicke and close together but thinne and with great distance betweene having set stations or wards of purpose so as one might succour another receiving the wearied and putting forth new and fresh supplies Strabo The Britans be taller of stature than the Gauls their haire not so yellow nor their bodies so well knit and firme For proofe of their talenesse I saw my selfe at Rome very youths and springals higher by halfe a foote than the tallest man Mary they had but bad feet to support them As for all other lineaments of the body they shewed good making and proportionable feature For disposition of nature they partly resemble the Gauls partly they be more plaine more rude and barbarous insomuch that some of them for want of skill can make no cheeses albeit they have plenty of milke others againe are altogether ignorant in gardening and planting of orchyards yea and in other points of husbandry Many Lords and Potentates they have among them In their warres they use a number of chariots like as some of the Gauls Woods stand them in stead of Cities and townes for when they have by felling of trees mounded and fensed therewith a spacious round plot of ground there they build for themselves halles and cottages and for their cattell set up stals and folds but those verily for the present use and not to serve long Caesar likewise A towne the Britaines call some thicke wood which they have enclosed and fortified with a ditch and rampier and made for a place of refuge and retrait to avoid the incursions of the borderers Diodorus Siculus The Britans live after the manner of the old world They use chariots in fight as the report goes of the ancient Greeks at the Trojane war Their houses are for the most part of reed or wood Their corne they inne and house with eare and all threshing out thereof from band to mouth as their need requires Faire conditioned people they are plaine and of upright dealing far from the subtiltie and craft of our men Their food whereupon they live is simple and nothing daintie nor like the full fare of rich men Their Island is replenished with people Pomponius Mela. Britaine bringeth forth nations and Kings of Nations but they be all uncivill and the farther they are from the continent the lesse acquainted they be with other kind of riches onely in catell and lands
already into the hearts of all nations in manner that are Behold in one faith he hath conjoined the limits of East and west Behold I say the very British tongue which could nought else but rudely bray Barbarous words long since began in the land of God to resound the Hebrew Allelu-jah And in his Epistle to Augustine himselfe Who is able heere to shew sufficiently what great joy is risen up in the hearts of all the faithfull for that the nation of Englishmen by the operation of God almightie his grace and the labour of your brotherhood after the darknes of errours were chased and driven away is illuminated with the light of holy faith for that with most sincere devotion they now spurne and tread idols under their feete who beforetime in superstitîous feare lay prostrate before them In an old fragment also written in that age thus we read Augustine upon one day of Christs Nativitie which with the universall glorie of the Englishmen is for ever celebrated did regenerate by lively Baptisme above ten thousand men besides an innumerable multitude of women and young children But what a number of Priests and other holy orders besides could be sufficient to wash such a sort of people Having hallowed and blessed therefore the river called in English Swale the Archbishop Augustine commanded by the voice of Criers Maisters that the people should enter the river confidently two by two and in the name of the Trinitie baptize one another by turnes Thus were they all borne againe with no lesse miracle than in times past the people of Israel passed over the red Sea divided and likewise Iordan when it turned backe for even so they were transported to the banke on the other side and notwithstanding so deepe a current and chanell so great and so divers differences of sex and age not one person who will ever thinke it tooke harme A great miracle no doubt but this miracle as great as it was a greater preeminence doth surmount in that all feeblenesse and infirmitie was laid off in that river whosoever was sick and deformed returned out of it whole and reformed O festivall spectacle for Angels and men to behold when so many thousands of a nation suing for grace came forth of one rivers channel as out of one mothers wombe and out of one poole so great a progenie sprung up for the celestiall and heavenly Citie Hereupon the most gracious Pope Gregorie with all the companies of Saints above breaking forth into joy could not conceale this but wrote unto Saint Eulogius the Patriarch of Alexandria that hee would most thankefully congratulate with him for so great an host baptized upon one Christmas day No sooner was the name of Christ preached but the English presently with such fervent zeale and devotion consecrated themselves unto Christ that they tooke incredible paines in propagating Christianitie in celebrating divine service performing all functions and duties of pietie building Churches and endowing them with rich livings so that there was not another region in all Christendome that could make reckoning of more monasteries richly endowed Yea divers Kings there were that preferred a religious and monasticall life before their Crowne and Kingdom So many holy men also this land brought forth which for their most firme profession of Christian religion constant perseverance therein and sincere pietie were canonized Saints that it gave place to no other Christian province in this behalfe And like as Britaine was called of that prophane Porphyrie a plenteous province of Tyrants so England might truely be named a most fruitfull Island of Saints Furthermore they applied their minds to the bringing in againe of the better kind of arts and sciences and sowed the seeds of Divinitie and good literature throughout all Germanie by the meanes of Winifridus Willebrodus and others which a German Poet sheweth in these verses Haec tamen Arctois laus est aeterna Britannis Quòd post Pannonicis vastatum incursibus orbem Illa bonas artes Graiae munera linguae Stellarumque vias magni sydera coeli Observans iterum turbatis intulit oris Quin se religio multum debere Britannis Servata latè circùm dispersa fatetur Quis nomen Winfride tuum quis munera nescit Te duce Germanis pietas se vera fidesque Insinuans coepit ritus abolere profanos Quid non Alcuino facunda Lutetia debes Instaurare bonas ibi qui foeliciter artes Barbariemque procul solus depellere coepit Quid tibi divinumque Bedam doctissimus olim Dum varias unus bene qui cognoverat artes Debemus Yet this immortall praise is due to Britain Northern Isle That when the world was overrun and wasted all the while By Pannonik invasions it did reduce in ure Those troubled countries with good arts also with knowledge pure Of Greeke tongue and observing still the stars in spacious skie And planets with their wandring waies taught them Astronomie For true religion eke preserv'd and sowne in many a land The world much bound to Britaine is and to her helpfull hand Thy name and gifts ô Winifride who knowes not since by thee The way was made in Germanie where faith and pietie First setting foote beganne to chase all rites profane away What ow I not to Alcuine now may eloquent Paris say Who happily went there in hand alone to plant a new Good arts and thence all barbarisme to banish far from view And unto thee for worthy Bede we are beholden much The only man for sundry arts his learned skill was such Peter Ramus saith moreover that Britaine was twice Schole-mistris to France meaning by the Druida◠and Alcuinus whose industrie Charles the Great used especially in erecting the Universitie of Paris They brought also into Germanie military knowledge of Armes as well as learning and religion yea and which you will marvell at if wee may beleeve these words of Eginhardus they gave unto those Saxons their first Originall who now inhabite the Dukedome of Saxonie The nation of the Saxons saith he as Antiquities do record being departed from the English inhabiting Britaine sailing through the Ocean partly upon a desire they had and partly driven of necessitie to seeke where they might seat themselves arrived upon the coasts of Germanie and landed at a place called Haduloha what time as Theodericus King of the Franks warring upon Hirminfridus Duke of the Thuringers his Daughters husband cruelly with fire and sword wasted their land Now when as they had in two pight fields already tried the doubtfull fortune of battaile with lamentable slaughter of their people and uncertaine victorie Theoderich disappointed of his hope to be Master of the field dispatched Embassadors unto the Saxons whose Duke was Hadugato who having heard the cause of their comming and taken their promise that upon obtaining victorie they should cohabite together led forth an armie with them to aide Theodoricus By meanes of which forces valiantly
Carleil containeth within it part of Cumberland and the Country of Westmerland To these you may adde the Bishopricke of Sodor in the Isle of Mona which commonly is called Man Among these the Archbishop of Canterburie hath the first place the Archbishop of Yorke the second the Bishop of London the third the Bishop of Durham the fourth the Bishop of Winchester the fifth the rest as they are consecrated or enstalled first so in prioritie they take the place Howbeit if any of the other Bishops happen to be Secretary to the King hee challengeth by his right the fift place Besides there are in England Deaneries xxvj whereof thirteene were ordained by Henrie the Eighth in the greater Cathedrall Churches after the Monks were thrust out Archdeaconries three skore Dignities and Prebends five hundred fortie foure Numbred also there are parish-churches under Bishops 9284 of which 3845 be Appropriat as I find in a Catalogue exhibited unto King Iames which here I have put downe underneath Now Appropriat Churches those are called which by the Popes authority comming betweene with consent of the King and the Bishop of the Diocesse were upon certaine conditions tied or as the forme runneth of our Law united annexed and incorporate for ever unto Monasteries Bishopricks Colledges and Hospitals endowed with small lands either for that the said Churches were built with in their Lordships and lands or granted by the Lords of the said lands Which Churches afterwards when the Abbaies and Monasteries were suppressed became Laye Fees to the great dammage of the Church  DIOECESES Parish-Churches Churches appropriated  Of Canterburie 257 140  Of London 623 189  Of Winchester 362 131  Of Coventrie and Lichfield 557 250  Of Sarisburie 248 109  Of Bath and Wels. 388 160  Of Lincoln 1255 577  Of Peter-burgh 293 91  Of Exceter 604 239  Of Glocester 267 125 In the Province of Canterburie in the Diocesse Of Hereford 313 166  Of Norwich 1121 385  Of Elie. 141 75  Of Rochester 98 36  Of Chichester 250 112  Of Oxford 195 88  Of Worcester 241 76  Of Bristoll 236 64  Of S. Davids 308 120  Of Bangor 107 36  Of Lhandaffe 177 98  Of S. Asaph 121 19  Peculiar in the Province of Canterburie 57 14  The summe of the Province of Canterburie 8â—19 3303  Of Yorke 581 336  Of Durham 135 87 In the Province of Yorke Of Chester 256 101 Of Carlile 93 18  The summe of the Province of Yorke 1065 592  The totall Summe in both Provinces 9284 3845 Howbeit in the booke of Thomas Wolsey Cardinall digested and written in The yeere 1520. by Counties are reckoned 9407. Churches How this varietie should come I cannot say unlesse that in the former age some Churches were pulled downe and the Chappels which belong unto Parishes be omitted and others that are but bare Chappels counted in the number of Parish-churches Yet out of this booke of Wolsey have I put downe the number of Parish-churches to every Shire There were also in the reigne of Henrie the Eight I hope without offence I may speake the truth many religious places Monuments of our fore-fathers pietie and devotion to the honor of God the propagation of Christian faith and good learning and also for the reliefe and maintenance of the poore and impotent to wit Monasteries or Abbaies and Priories to the number of 645 of which when by permission of Pope Clement the seventh fortie were suppressed by Cardinall Wolseies meanes who then had begun to found two Colledges one at Oxenford the other at Ipswich straight waies about the xxxvj yeere of the reigne of the said Henrie the Eight a sudden floud as it were breaking thorow the banks with a maine streame fell upon the Ecclesiasticall State of England which whiles the world stood amazed and England groned thereat bare downe and utterly overthrew the greatest part of the Clergie together with their most goodly and beautifull houses For that leave which the Pope granted to the Cardinall the King with assent of the Parliament tooke to himselfe Whereupon in the yeere of our Lord 1536. all religious houses every one together with all their livings and revenewes as many I meane as might dispend by yeerely rent 200. pound or under and those amounted to the number of 376 were granted to the King And in the yeere next following under a faire pretence and shew of rooting out superstition all the rest together with Colledges Chanteries and Hospitals were left to the dispose and pleasure of the King At which time the religious houses remaining in number 605. were surveied valued or taxed Colledges there were besides those in the Vniversities 90. Hospitals 110. Chanâ—eries and free Chappels 2374. All which for the most part shortly after were every where pulled downe their revenues sold and made away those goods riches which the Christian pietie of the English nation had consecrated unto God since they first professed Christianity were in a moment as it were dispersed and to the displeasure of no man be it spoken prophaned THE STATES AND DEGREES of England AS touching the division of our Common-wealth it consisteth of a King or Monarch Noblemen or Gentry Citizens Free-borne whom we call Yeomen and Artisans or Handicraftsmen THE KING whom our ancestors the English-Saxons called Coning and Gyninâ— in which name is implied a signification both of power and skill and wee name contractly King hath soveraigne power and absolute command among us neither holdeth he his Empire in vassalage not receiveth his investure or câ—stalling of another â—e yet acknowledgeth any superiour but God alone and as one said All verily are under him and himselfe under none but God onely Also he hath very many rights of Majestie peculiar to himselfe the learned Lawyers terme them Sacra sacrorum that is Sacred and Individua that is inseparable because they cannot be severed and the common sort Royall prerogatives which they to me The flowers of his Crowne in which respect they affirme that the regall materiall Crowne is adorned with flowers Some of these are by positive or written law others by right of custome which by a silent consent of all men without law prescription of â—ime hath allowed the King justly enjoieth and most deservedly considering that His watchfull care defendeth the state of all his painfull labour maintaineth the rest of all his spadious industry upholdeth the deâ—ights of all and his busie employment affordeth case to all But these are points of a loâ—â—ier discourse and not of the argument now in hand The second or next to the King is his first begotten sonne who like as among the Romans the heire apparant and assigned successour to the Empire was first entituled Princeps Iuventutis that is Prince of the youth and afterwards as flatterie did increase stiled by the name of Caesar Noble Caesar
Westminster The Abbat of S. Albans The Abbat of S. Edmonds-Bury The Abbat of Peterburgh The Abbat of S. Iohn of Colchester The Abbat of Evesham The Abbat of Winchelcomb The Abbat of Crouland The Abbat of Battaile The Abbat of Reding The Abbat of Abindon The Abbat of Waltham holy Crosse. The Abbat of Shrewsburie or Salop. The Abbat of Sircester The Abbat of S. Peters in Glocester The Abbat of Bardeney The Abbat of S. Bennets of Hulme The Abbat of Thorney The Abbat of Ramsey The Abbat of Hyde The Abbat of Malmesburie The Abbat of S. Marie in Yorke The Abbat of Selbey The Prior of Coventrie The Prior of The order of S. Iohn at Ierusalem who commonly is called Master of S. Iohns Knights and would be counted the first and chiefe Baron of England Vnto whom as still unto the Bishops By right and custome it appurtained as to Peeres of the Kingdome to be with the rest of the Peeres personally present at all parliaments whatsoever there to consult to handle to ordaine decree and determine in regard of the Baronies which they held of the King For William the first a thing that the Church-men of that time complained of but those in the age ensuing counted their greatest honor ordained Bishopricks and Abbaies which held Baronies in pure and perpetuall Almâ—s and untill that time were free from all secular service to bee under military or Knights service enrolling every Bishopricke and Abbay at his will and pleasure and appointing how many souldiers he would have every of them to find for him and his successours in the time of hostility and warre From that time ever since those Ecclesiasticall persons enjoyed all the immunities that the Barons of the Kingdome did save onely that they were not to be judged by their Peeres For considering that according to the Canons of the Church such might not be present in matters of life and death in the same causes they are left unto a jurie of twelve men to be judged in the question of Fact But whether this be a cleere point in law or no I referre me to skilfull Lawyers Vavasors or Valvasors in old time stood in the next ranke after Barons whom the Lawyers derive from Valvae that is leaved dootes And this dignitie seemeth to have come unto us from the French For when they had soveraigne rule in Italy they called those Valvasores who of a Duke Marquesse Earle or Captaine had received the charge over some part of their people and as Butelere the civill Lawyer saith had power to chastise in the highest degree but not the Libertie of faires and mercates This was a rare dignity among us and if ever there were such long since by little and little it ceased and ended For in Chaucers time it was not great seeing that of his Franklin a good yeoman or Freeholder he writeth but thus A Sheriffe had he beene and a Câ—ntour Was no where such a worthy Vavasour Inferiour nobles are Knights Esquires and those which usually are called Generosi and Gentlemen Knights who of our English Lawyers be termed also in Latin Milites and in all nations well neere besides tooke their name of Horses for the Italians call them Cavellieni the Frenchmen Chevaliers the Germans Reiters and our Britans in Wales Margogh all of riding Englishmen onely terme them Knights by a word that in the old English language as also of the German signifieth indifferently a servitor or minister and a lusty young man Heereupon it commeth that in the Old written Gospels translated into the English tongue wee read for Christs Disciples Christs Leorning Cnyhts and else where for a Client or Vassall Incnyght and Bracton our ancient civill Lawyer maketh mention of Radâ—nights that is to say serving horsemen who held their lands with this condition that they should serve their Lords on horsbacke and so by cutting off a peece of the name as our delight is to speake short I thought long since that this name of Knights remained with us But whence it came that our countreymen should in penning of lawes and in all writings since the Normans conquest terme those Knights in Latin Milites I can hardly see And yet I am not ignorant that in the declining time of the Roman Empire the Denomination of Milites that is Souldiers was transferred unto those that conversing neere about the Princes person bare any of the greater offices in the Princes Court or traine But if I have any sight at all in this matter they were among us at first so called who held any lands or inheritances as Tenants in Fee by this tenure to serve in the warres For those Lands were termed Knights Fees and those that elsewhere they named Feudatarij that is Tenants in Fee were here called Milites that is Knights as for example Milites Regis c. The Kings Knights Knights of the Archbishop of Canterburie Knights of Earle Roger of Earle Hugh c. For that they received those lands or manors of them with this condition to serve for them in the wars and to yeeld them fealty and homage whereas others who served for pay were simply called Solidarij and Servientes that is Souldiers and Servitors But these call them Milites or Equites whether you will are with us of foure distinct sorts The most honorable and of greatest dignitie be those of the Order of S. George or of the Garter In a second degree are Banerets in a third ranke Knights of the Bath and in a fourth place those who simply in our tongue be called Knights in Latin Equites aurati or Milites without any condition at all Of S. Georges Knights I will write in due place when I am come to Windsor Of the rest thus much briefly at this time Banerets whom others terme untruely Baronets have their name of a Banner For granted it was unto them in regard of their martiall vertue and prowesse to use a foure square ensigne or Banner as well as Barons whereupon some call them and that truly Equites Vexillarij that is Knights-Banerets and the Germans Banner-heires The antiquitie of these Knights Banerets I cannot fetch from before the time of King Edward the Third when Englishmen were renowned for Chivalrie so that I would beleeve verily that this honorable title was devised then first in recompence of martiall prowesse untill time shall bring more certainty of truth to light In the publicke records of that time mention is made among military titles of Banerets of Men at the Banner which may seeme all one and of Men at armes And I have seene a Charter of King Edward the Third by which he advanced Iohn Coupland to the State of a Baneret because in a battell fought at Durham hee had taken prisoner David the Second King of the Scots and it runneth in these words Being willing to reward the said Iohn who tooke David de Bruis prisoner and
of knighthood should fine for it and pay a piece of money Hence it is that in the Kings Records we meet so often with this For respit of Knighthood A. de N.I.H. c. Also such like presentments from the Jurors or sworne Enquest as this R. de S. Lawrence holdeth an entire and whole Fee is at full age and not yet Knight therefore in Misericordia that is To be fined at the Kings pleasure To this time and after unlesse I faile in mine observation in the Briefes and Instruments our law when twelve men or Jurers are named before whom there passeth triall or proofe de facto that is of a fact they bee called Milites that is Knights who have a compleat Fee and those Milites gladio cincti that is Knights with cincture of sword who by the King are girded with the belt of knighthood At which time when the King was to create knights as the said Matthew Paris writeth he sat gloriously in his seate of estate arraied in cloth of gold of the most precious and costly Bawdkin and crowned with his Crowne of gold and to every Knight he allowed or gave 100. shillings for his harnessements And not only the King but also Earles in those daies created Knights For the same author reporteth How the Earle of Glocester invested with a militarie girdle his brother William after he had proclaimed a Turneament Simon likewise de Montefort Earle of Leicester did the same by Gilbert de Clare Like as in France a thing that evidently appeareth by the Patent or Instrument of Nobilitation he that hath obtained such letters of Ennoblishment is enabled to be dubbed Knight and receive the girdle of knighthood at any Knights hand that he will himselfe But since that time hath no man with us beene created Knight but either by the King himselfe or the Kings eldest sonne warranted before by authoritie received from his father or else by the Kings Lieutenant or Deputie Generall in the Campe and that in consideration either of some valiant acts atchieved or exploits to be performed abroad in armes or else of wisedome and policie at home And verily a most prudent and wise order was this that our Kings tooke since they had not any Fees or Lands now to bestow upon them Neither was their I assure you any thing of more validitie to give an edge unto the courage of hardy men and to bind unto them their best subjects and such as had deserved well being otherwise worshipfully descended and of honourable parentage and withall sufficient for estate and living than kindly and lovingly to adorne them with this high esteemed title of Knighthood which was before time the name only of charge and function when this right worshipfull title was by the Prince conferred upon one advisedly and for desert it went no doubt for an ample reward was prized as a benefit and accounted among the tokens of honour For Knights in this manner dubbed made this esteeme thereof that in it consisted the guerdon of their vertue and valour the praise of their house and family the memoriall of their stocke and linage and lastly the glory of their name Insomuch as our Lawyers have in their bookes writen That Knight was a name of dignitie but so was not Baron For in old time a Baron if he were not of this order of Knighthood was written simply by his Christian or fore-name and the proper name of his family without any addition unlesse it were of Dominus a terme fitting Knights also And this name of Knight may seeme to have beene an honourable additament to the highest dignitie when Kings Dukes Marquesses Earles and Barons requested to have the dignitie and name together Heere it likes me well to insert what Matthew Florilegus hath written concerning the creation of Knights in the time of Edward the First The King quoth he for to augment and make a goodly shew of his expedition into Scotland caused publike proclamation to be made throughout England that whosoever were to be Knights by hereditarie succession and had wherewith to maintaine that degree should present themselves in Westminster at the feast of Whitsontide there to receive every one the ornaments of a Knight saving the equipage or furniture that belongeth to horses out of the Kings Wardrobe When as therefore there flocked thither to the number of 300. young gallants the Sons of Earles Barons and Knights purple liveries fine silke Scarfes Roabes most richly embroidered with gold were plentifully bestowed among them according as was befitting each one And because the Kings Palace large though it were was streited of roome for so great a multitude assembled they cut downe the apple trees about the new Temple in London laid the walles along and there set up pavilions and tents wherin these noble young gallants might array and set out themselves one by one in their gorgeous and golden garments All the night long also these foresaid youths as many as the place would receive watched and prayed in the said Temple But the Prince of Wales by commandement from the King his father held his wake togither with the principall and goodliest men of this company within the Church of Westminster Now such sound was there of trumpets so loud a noise of Minstrelsie so mightie an applause and cry of those that for joy shouted that the chaunting of the Covent could not be heard from one side of the Quire to the other Well the morrow after the King dubbed his Sonne Knight and gave him the Girdle of Knighthood in his owne palace and therewith bestowed upon him the Duchie of Aquitaine The Prince then thus created Knight went directly into Westminster Church for to grace with the like glorious dignitie his feers and companions But so great was the prease of people thronging before the High Altar that two Knights were thronged to death and very many of them fainted and were readie to swowne yea although every one of them had three souldiers at least to lead and protect him The Prince himselfe by reason of the multitude preasing up to him having divided the people by the meanes of steeds of service no otherwise than upon the high Altar girt his foresaid companions with the order of knighthood But in our daies hee that receiveth the dignitie of a Knight kneeleth downe and then the King with his sword drawne slightly smiteth him upon the shoulder speaking unto him these words withall in French Sois Chevalier au nom de Dieu that is Be thou Knight in the name of God and afterwards hee saith moreover Avances Chevalier that is Arise Sir Knight As for all things else appurtaining to this order namely what an excellent and glorious degree this of knighthood was esteemed with our Ancestours how noble a reward to brave minded men such as desired glorie and honour it was reputed how carefully they kept faith troth considering it was sufficient if they undertook or promised ought as
against the watch-Towre of Britaine For no other place of this Iland looketh directly to Spaine Upon it there standeth now a little village named S. Buriens in old time Eglis Buriens that is The Church of Buriena or Beriena consecrated to Buriena a religious Irish woman For this nation alwaies honoured Irish Saints as tutelar patrons of their owne so all their Towns in manner they have consecrated unto them This village King Athelstan as the report goeth granted to be a priviledged place or Sanctuarie what time as he arrived as Conquerour out of the Iles of Sylly True it is that he built heere a Church and that under William the Conquerour there was heere a Colledge of Chanons unto whom the territorie adjoyning belonged Neere unto this in a place which they call Biscaw Woune are to bee seene nineteene stones set in a round circle distant every one about twelve foote from the other and in the very center there is one pitched far higher and greater than the rest This was some Trophee or monument of victorie erected by the Romans as probably may bee conjectured under the later Emperours or else by Athelstan the Saxon when he had subdued the Cornish-men and brought them under his dominion As the shore fetcheth a compasse by little and little from hence Southward it letteth in a bay or creeke of the Sea in manner of a Crescent which they call Mounts-bay wherein as the common speech goeth the Ocean by rushing with a violent force drowned the land Vpon this lieth Mousehole in the British tongue Port Inis that is The Haven of the Iland For which Henry of Ticis a Baron in his time and Lord of Alwerton and Tiwernel in this Country obtained of King Edward the First the grant to have a market there Likewise there is seated upon this Bay Pen-sans that is The Cape or Head of Saints or as some thinke Sands a prety market Towne within a little whereof is that famous stone Main-Amber which being a great Rock advanced upon some other of meaner size with so equall a counterpeize a man may stir with the push of his finger but to remove it quite out of his place a great number of men are not able as also Merkin that is Iupiters market because Thursday anciently dedicated to Iupiters is their market day a dangerous rode for ships And in the very angle and corner it selfe S. Michaels mount which gave name unto the foresaid Bay sometime called Dinsol as wee find in the booke of Landaffe the Inhabitants name it Careg Cowse that is The hoary Crag or Rock the Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Michaels place as Master Laurence Noel a man of good note for his singular learning and who was the first in our age that brought into ure againe and revived the language of our ancestours the Saxons which through disuse lay sorlet and buried in oblivion hath well observed This Rocke is of a good height and craggy compassed round about with water so oft as it is floud but at every ebbe joyned to the main-land so that they say of it It is land and Iland twice a day For which cause Iohn Earle of Oxford not many yeeres ago presuming upon the strength of the place chose it for his chiefest defence when he raised war against King Edward the Fourth and valiantly held the same but with no good successe For his souldiers being assailed by the Kings forces straight waies yeelded In the very top heereof within the Fortresse there was a Chappell consecrated to S. Michael the Archangell where William Earle of Cornwall and Moriton who by the bounteous gift of King William the First had great lands large possessions in this tract built a Cell for one or two monks who avouched that S. Michael appeared in that mount which apparition or the like the Italians challenge to their hill Garganus and the Frenchmen likewise to their Michaels mount in Normandie At the foote of this mountaine within the memorie of our Fathers whiles men were digging up of tin they found Spear-heads axes and swords of brasse wrapped in linnen such as were sometimes found within the forrest Hercinia in Germanie and not long since in our Wales For evident it is by the monuments of ancient Writers that the Greeks the Cimbrians and Britans used brazen weapons although the wounds given with brasse bee lesse hurtfull as in which mettall there is a medicinable vertue to heale according as Macrobius reporteth out of Aristotle But happily that age was not so cunning in devising meanes to mischiefe and murthers as ours is In the rocks underneath as also along the shore every where breedeth the Pyrrhecorax a kind of crow with bill and feet red and not as Plinie thought proper to the Alpes onely This bird the inhabitants have found to be an Incendiarie and theevish beside For oftentimes it secretly conveieth fire-sticks setting their houses a fire and as closely filcheth and hideth little peeces of money In this place the countrey is most narrow and groweth as it were into an Isthmus for it is scarse foure miles over from hence to the Severn or upper sea A little above this mount there openeth a Creeke of good bredth called of the mount Mountsbay a most safe rode and harbour for ships when the South and Southeast winds are aloft and bluster at a mid ebbe and returne of the Sea six or seven fathom deepe More toward the East ariseth Godolcan hill right famous for plentifull veines of tin they call it now Godolphin but much more renowned in regard of the Lords thereof bearing the same name who with their vertues have equalled the ancientnesse of that house and linage But that name in the Cornish language came of A white Aegle and this family hath anciently borne for their armes in a shield Gules an Aegle displaied Argent betweene three Flower-deluces of the same id est Argent likewise in a shield Gules From S. Michaels mount Southward immediatly there is thrust forth a bi-land or demi-Ile at the very entrie whereof Heilston sheweth it selfe called in their country language Hellas by reason of the salt water flowing thereto a Towne of great resort for their priviledge of marking and coinage of tin Under which by the confluence and meeting of many waters there is made a lake two miles in length named Loo poole divided from the Sea by a narrow banke running betweene which whensoever it is by the violence of waves broken thorow a wonderfull roring of waters is heard far and neere all over the countrey adjoining And not far from thence there is to be seene a militarie fense or rampier of a large compasse built of stones heaped together and laid without mortar they call it in their tongue Earth of which sort there be others heere and there raised as I verily beleeve in the Danish warre Neither is it unlike to
by word of it Hengston downe well ywrought Is worth London deere ybought And it was an ordinarie place where every seven or eight yeere the Stannarie men of Cornwall and Denshire were wont in great frequencie to assemble together and to consult about their affaires At this hill in the yeere of savation DCCCXXXI the British Danmonij who calling the Danes to aid them of purpose to break into Devonshire that they might drive out the English from thence who alreadie possessed themselves of the countrey were pitiously defeated by King Egbert and slaine almost to the very last man Beneath it Tamar leaveth Halton the habitation of the Rouses anciently Lords of Little Modbery in Devonshire and running nigh unto Salt-Esse a prettie market Towne seated in the descent of an hill which hath a Major and certaine priviledges of their owne as I said erewhile it entertaineth the river Liver on which standeth that same Towne of Saint Germans whereof I spake before And now by this time spreading broader dischargeth it selfe into the Ocean making the haven which in the life of Saint Indractus is called Tamerworth after it hath severed Cornwall from Denshire For Athelstane the first English King that brought this countrey absolute under his dominion appointed this river to be the bound or limit between the Britans of Cornwal and his Englishmen after he had remooved the Britans out of Denshire as witnesseth William of Malmsburie who calleth it Tambra Whereupon Alexander Necham in his Praises of divine wisedome writeth thus Loegriae Tamaris divisor Cornubiaeque Indigenas ditat pinguibus Isiciis Tamar that Lhoegres doth divide from Cornwall in the west The neighbour-dwellers richly serves with Salmons of the best The place requireth here that I should say somewhat of the holy and devout virgin Ursula descended from hence as also of the eleven thousand British Virgins But such is the varietie of Writers whiles some report they suffered martyrdome under Gratian the Emperour about the yeare of our Lord CCCLXXXIII upon the coast of Germanie as they sailed to Armorica others by Attlia the Hun that scourge of God in the yeare CCCCL at Coline upon Rhene as they returned from Rome that with some it hath brought the truth of the History into suspition of a vaine fable And as touching that Constantine whom Gildas termeth a tyrannous whelpe of the uncleane Danmonian Lionesse as also of the Disforresting of all this country for before time it was reputed a Forrest let Historians speake for it is no part of my purpose As for the Earles none of British bloud are mentioned but onely Candorus called by others Cadocus who is accounted by late writers the last Earle of Cornwall of British race and as they which are skilfull in Heraldry have a tradition bare XV. Besaunts V. IIII. III. II. and I. in a shield Sable But of the Normans bloud the first Earle was Robert of Moriton halfe brother to William Conqueror by Herlotta their mother after whom succeeded William his sonne who when hee had sided with Robert of Normandie against Henry the First King of England being taken prisoner in battell lost both his libertie and his honours and at last turned Monke at Bermondsey Then Reginald a base sonne of Henrie the First by the daughter of Sir Robert Corber for that King plied getting children so lustfully as that hee was father of thirteene Bastards was placed in his roome This Reginald dying without issue male legitimate King Henry the Second having assigned unto his daughters certaine lands and Lordships reserved this Earledome to himselfe for the â—ehoore of his owne youngest sonne Iohn a child of nine yeares old upon whom his brother Richard the First conferred it afterwards with other Earledomes This Iohn afterward was crowned King of England and his second sonne Richard was by his brother King Henry the Third endowed with this honour and the Earledome of Poictou a Prince verily in those daies puissant in Gods service devout and religious in war right valiant for counsell sage and prudent who in Aquitaine fought battels with fortunate successe and shewed much valour and having made a voyage into the Holy Land enforced the Sarazens to make truce with him the Kingdome of Apulia offered unto him by the Pope he refused the troubles and tumults in England he often times composed and in the yeare of our Lord MCCLVIL by some of the Princes Electours of Germany was chosen King of the Romans and crowned at Aquisgrane whereupon as if he had made meanes thereto by money this verse was so riâ—e and currant every where Nummus ait pro me nubit Cornubia Romae For me my money saieth this Cornwall to Rome now wedded is For so well monied he was before that one who then lived hath put downe in writing that for ten yeares together hee might dispend one hundred markes a day But when as Germanie was all on a light fire with civil warres among competitors of the Empire he returned quickly into England where he departed this life and was interred in the famous Monastery of Hales which he had built a little after that his first begotten son Henry newly in his return from the Holy Land whiles he was at divine service devoutly occupied within a church at Viterbium in Italy was by Guy de Montfort son of Simon Montfort Earle of Leceister in revenge of his fathers death wickedly slaine Edmund therefore his second son succeeded in the Earledome of Cornwall who died without any lawfull issue and so his high and great estate of inheritance returned to King Edward the First as who was the next unto him in bloud and found as our Lawyers say his heire Whereas that Richard and Edmund his sonne Princes of the bloud Royall of England bare divers Armes from the Armes Royall of England to wit in a shield argent a Lyon rampant gules crowned or within a border sables Bezante I have with others oftentimes much marvelled at neither I assure you can I alleage any other reason but that they in this point imitated the house Royall of France for the manner of bearing Armes came from the French men unto us For the younger sonnes of the Kings of France even to the time wee now speake of bare other coats than the Kings themselves did as we may see in the family of Vermandois Dreux and Courtney and as Robert Duke of Burgundy brother to Henrie the First King of France tooke unto him the ancient shield of the Dukes of Burgundie so we may well thinke that this Richard having received the Earledome of Poictou from Henry the Third his brother assumed unto him that Lyon gules crowned which belonged to the Earles of Poictou before him as the French writers doe record and added thereto the border garnished with Besaunts out of the ancient coat of the Earles of Cornwall For so soone as the younger sonnes of the Kings of France began to beare the Armes of France with
differences semblably they did among us and began first at Edward the First his children But whither am I carried away from my purposed matter as forgetting my selfe in the delight I take of mine owne studie and profession When Cornwall was thus reverted unto the Crowne King Edward the Second who had received from his father faire lands and possessions here bestowed the title of Earle of Cornwall upon Piers Gaveston a Gascon who had ensnared his youth by the allurements of corrupt life But when as hee for corrupting the Prince and for other heinous crimes was by the Nobles intercepted and beheaded there succeeded him Iohn of Eltham a younger sonne of Edward the Second advanced thereto by his brother Edward the Third who dying young and without issue also Edward the Third erected Cornwall into a Dukedome and invested Edward his sonne a Prince most accomplished with martiall prowesse in the yeare of Christ 1336. Duke of Cornwall by a wreath on his head a Ring upon his finger and a silver verge Since which time that I may note so much under warrant of record let the skilfull Lawyers judge thereof the King of Englands eldest sonne is reputed Duke of Cornwall by birth and by vertue of a speciall Act the very first day of his nativitie is presumed and taken to be of full and perfect age so that he may sue that day for his liverie of the said Dukedome and ought by right to obtaine the same as well as if hee had beene full one and twentie yeares old and he hath his Royalties in certaine actions in Stannary matters in wracks at sea customes c. yea and divers ministers or officers assigned unto him for these and such like matters But more plainly and fully instructed are we in these points by Richard Carew of Anthony a Gentleman innobled no lesse in regard of his Parentage and descent than for his vertue and learning who hath published and perfected the description of this countrey more at large and not in a slight and meane manner whom I must needs acknowledge to have given me much light herein There be in this Countie Parishes 161. DEVONIAE Comitatus Vulgo Den Shyre quam olim DANMONII Populi Incoluerunt DENSHIRE THe neerer or hithermore region of the Danmonians that I speake of is now commonly called Denshire by the Cornish-Britaines Deuinan and by the Welsh Britaines Duffneint that is Low valleies for that the people dwell for the most part beneath in vales by the English Saxons Deven 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 whereof grew the Latine name Devonia and by that contraction which the vulgar people useth Denshire and not of the Danes as some smatterers of meane knowledge most stifly maintaine a countrey which as it extendeth it selfe both waies wider than Cornwall so is it harborous on either side with more commodious Havens no lesse inriched with tin mines especially West-ward garnished with pleasanter medowes sightly with greater store of woods and passing well replenished with Townes and buildings But the soile in some places againe is as leane and barren which not withstanding yieldeth fruit to the Husbandman plenteously so that he be skilfull in husbandry and both can take paines and be able withall to defray the cost Neither is there in all England almost any place where the ground requireth greater charges For in most parts thereof it groweth in manner barren if it be not overstrewed and mingled with a certaine sand from the Sea which is of great efficacie to procure fertilitie by quickning as it were and giving life unto the glebe and therefore in places far from the shore it is bought at a deare rate In describing of this region I will first travell over the West-side as the river Tamara runneth along and then the South coast which bordereth on the Ocean From whence by the Easterne bounds where it confineth upon Dorset Sommerset shires I will returne backe unto the Northern which is hemmed in with the Severne Sea Tamar which divideth these two shires first on this part receiveth into it from the East a rivelet called Lid which passeth by Coriton and K. Sidenham small townlets but which have given surnames to ancient and worshipfull families to Lidstow a little mercate Towne and Lidford now a small village but in ancient time a famous Towne which in the yeare 997. was most grievously shaken and dispoiled by the furious rage of the Danes which as it is written in that booke whereby William the First tooke the survey and value of England was not wont to be rated and asceased at any other time nor otherwise than London was That little river Lid here at the bridge gathered into a streight and pent in between rocks runneth downe amaine and holloweth the ground daily more and more so deepe that his water is not seene only a roaring noise is heard to the great wonder of those that passe over Beneath it Tamar receiveth Teave a little river on which Teavistok commonly called Tavistoke flourisheth a town in times past famous for the Abbey there which Ordulph the son of Ordgare Earle of Devonshire admonished by a vision from heaven built about the yeare of our Saviour Christ Dcccclxj. a place as William of Malmesburie describeth it Pleasant in regard of the groves standing so conveniently about it and of the plenteous fishing there for the handsome and uniforme building also of the Church for the sewers from the river passing downe along by the houses of office which runne with such a force of their owne that they carry away with them all the superfluitie they find Saint Rumon is much spoked of and lies as Bishop there There is to be seene also in the same Abbey the Sepulchre of that Ordgar before named and the huge bignesse of his sonnes tomb who was called Ordulph is thought to be a rare thing worth the sight for he was a man of a mighty stature giant like and of exceeding great strength as who was able to burst in sunder the bars of great gates and to stride over the rivelet there ten foote broad if ye list to believe the said William But scarcely had this Abbey stood thirty yeare after it was first founded when the Danes in their spoyling rage burnt it to the ground yet it flourished againe and by a laudable ordinance lectures therein were kept of our ancient language I meane the English Saxon tongue which continued even to our fathers daies for feare lest the said language a thing that now is well neere come to passe should be forgotten Tamar having thus received the Teave draweth now very neere unto his mouth where he and the river Plime together fall into the Ocean of which river the Towne adjoyning to it is called Plimmouth sometime named Sutton and seemeth to have consisted of two parts For we read in the Parliamentary Acts of Sutton Vautort and Sutton Prior because it belonged partly to the family of the
Temporall man Certainely whencesoever the name came it is ancient and they have worshipfully matched and not long since with one of the daughters of Arthur Plantagenet Vicount Lisley naturall sonne to King Edward the Fourth Hence Towridge hastneth to Tourington which it giveth name unto standing over it in a great length upon the brow of a little hill by Bediford also a towne of right good name for the frequent resort of people and number of Inhabitants as also for a goodly stone bridge with arched worke where straight waies it windeth it selfe into the Taw. This Taw breaking forth out of the very midst and hart of the shire first runneth downe by Chimligh a little market towne not far from Chettlehampton a small Village where Hyertha canonized a Shee-Saint lay interred from thence having passed by Tawton where Werstane and Putta the first Bishops of Denshire had their See about the yeare of our Lord 906. and Tawstoke over against it now the seate of the right honourable Earle of Bathe it maketh haste to Berstaple Reputed this is a very ancient Towne and for elegant building and frequencie of people held chiefe in all this coast scituate amidst hilles in forme of a semicircle upon the river being as it were a diameter Which River at every change and full of the Moone by the swelling of the Ocean overfloweth the fields so as the very Towne it selfe seemeth to be a demie Island but when as one saith the sea reengorgeth it selfe backe againe into the sea it is so shallow creeping betweene sands and shelves as it hardly beareth smaller vessels On the south side it hath a stately bridge built by one Stamford a Citizen of London In the North part where North Ewe a little river or brooke runneth are seene the reliques of a Castle which by the common report King Athelstane but as others say Iudaël of Totenais built for the keeping and defence whereof certaine Lands adjoyning thereabout are held in Castle-guard It had sometimes a wall about it but now there remaine scarce any small tokens thereof The said Iudaël of Totenais received it in free gift in fee of King William the First after him the Tracies held it for a long time then the Martins after whom in the raigne of King Richard the Second it came to Iohn Holland Earle of Huntingdon who afterwards was Duke of Excester and last of all it fell to the Crowne But Queene Mary gave the Mannour to Thomas Marrow whose son sold it away In K. William the First his daies as we find in Domesday booke It had within the Burgh fortie Burgesses and nine without King Henrie the First endowed it with many priviledges and King John with more A Major and two Bailiffes for a long time it had but Queene Mary ordained there a Major two Aldermen and a Counsell of twentie and foure The Inhabitants for the most part are Merchants who in France and Spaine trade and traffique much Neither must this be passed over with silence that out of this Towns-Schoole their issued two right learned men and most renowned Divines John Jewell Bishop of Sarisbury and Thomas Harding the publike professour in Lovain who most hotly contended and wrote learnedly one against the other concerning the truth of Religion From hence the river Taâ— saluting as it were Ralegh which in times past had noble Lords of that name but now is the possession of a right worshipfull house surnamed Chichester and afterwards encreased by Towbridge water falleth into the Severne Sea but it meeâ—eth nor with Kinwith Castle whereof Asserius maketh mention For here abouâ— such a Castle there was of that name for scite of the ground about it very safe on every side save onely on the East quarter at the which in the yeare of Christ â—70 Hubba the Dane who with many slaughters and overthrowes had harried the English Nation was with many other Danes slaine And thereupon the place afterwards was called by our Historiographers Hubbestow And then it was that the Englishmen wan the Danes banner called Reafan Which I note therefore the rather because it may be gathered out of a pretty tale in Asserius Menevenâ—is who hath delivered these things in writing that the Danes bare in their Ensigne a Raven wrought by report in needle-worke by the daughters of Lothbrooke that is Leather-breech the Dane with such an opinion of good lucke as they thought that it never should be wonne After this nothing there is to bee seene upon this coast but Ilfarcomb a good and sure rode for ships and Comb-Marton bordering hard upon it under which old mines of lead not without veines of silver have of late beene discovered As for this word Comb to observe so much once for all which is an usuall adjection to names of places in this tract it signifieth a low scituation or a Vale and derived it may seeme to be of Kum a British word that betokeneth the same and the French men in their tongue retaine it still in the very same sense from the ancient Gallique language the same with old British More South-East from hence and neere unto Somersetshire Bampton sometimes Baentun sheweth it selfe which under William the Conquerour befell unto Walter de Doway with other right large and faire lands else-where of whose posteritie Iuliana an Inheritrix married to William Paganell commonly Paynell bare Fulk de Bampton and he begat William and Christian the wife of Cogan of Ireland whose posteritie succeeded in the possession thereof for that the issue of the said William died without children But from the Cogans the possession descended at length hereditarily unto the Bourchiers now Earles of Bathe by an heire of Hancford who had married likewise an heire of the Lord Fitz-warin In the prime and infancie of the Normans Empire to say nothing of Hugh the Norman whom Queene Emnia had before time made Ruler over this countrey King William the First ordained one Baldwine to be the hereditarie Sheriffe or Vicount of Denshire and Baron of Okchampton after whom succeeded in that honour Richard his sonne who died without issue male Then King Henrie the First bestowed upon Richard de Redveriis First Tiverton and afterwards the honour of Plimpton with other places appurtaining thereto and consequently created him Earle of Denshire by granting unto him the third penie of the yearely revenues growing out of the same Countie Now the revenue of the Countie which in those daies was due to the King was not above thirtie marks out of which the said Earle tooke unto him for his part ten markes yearely After this hee obtained of the said King the Isle of Wight whereupon stiled hee was Earle of Denshire and Lord of the Isle Hee had a Sonne named Baldwin who siding with Maude the Empresse against King Stephen was banished the Realme Howbeit Richard his Sonne recovered this honour of his Fathers and hee
Somersetshire and Wiltshire on the West with Devonshire and some part of Somersetshire on the East with Hampshire so on the South part where it carrieth the greatest length it lieth all open to the Sea bearing upon the British Ocean as I said erewhile for fiftie miles together or much thereabout A fruitfull soile it is The North part thereof being overspred with woods and forrests from thence garnished with many a greene hill whereon feede flocks of sheepe in great number with pleasant pastures likewise and fruitfull vallies bearing come it hath a descent even to the very Sea shore which in my description I will follow as it leadeth me for that I can find no better order In the very entrance into this out of Denshire the first place that sheweth it selfe on this shore is Lime a little towne scituate upon a steepe hill so called of a small river of the same name running hard by which scarcely may challenge the name of a Port or Haven towne though it be frequented with fishermen and hath a rode under it called the Cobbe sufficiently defended from the force of winds with rocks and high trees In ancient bookes I can hardly find any mention thereof onely thus much I have read that King Kinwulfe in the yeare of our Lord 774. gave by these words the land of one Mansion unto the Church of Scireburne hard by the Wersterne banks of the river Lime not farre from the place where he hideth the course of his streame within the Sea to this end that for the said Church salt might be boyled to the sustaining of manifold necessities Neere thereunto the river Carr dischargeth it selfe into the Sea and there standeth Carmouth a little village where the bold roving Danes having good successe in sea-fights wonne two victories of the English first vanquished King Egbert in the yeare of Christ 831. and then eight yeares after King Aethelwolfe Then there is Burtport or more truly Birtport placed betweene two small rivers which there meete together In this towne in the daies of King Edward the Confessor there were reckoned one hundred and twenty houses but in William the Conquerors raigne as we find in his booke of Doomesday one hundred and no more In our time in respect of the soile yeilding the best hemp and skill of the people for making ropes and cables for ships it was provided by a speciall statute to remaine in force for a certaine set time that ropes for the Navie of England should be twisted no where else Neither is this place able to maintaine the name of an haven albeit in the mouth of the river being on both sides enclosed within little hilles nature seemes as it were of purpose to have begun an haven and requireth in some sort art and mans helpe to accomplish the same From hence the shore winding in and out shooteth far into the Sea and a banke called Chesil of sands heaped up thick together with a narrow frith betweene lieth in length for nine miles which the South-wind when it is up commonly cutteth asunder and disperseth but the Northerne wind bindeth and hardneth againe By this Banke or Sand-ridge Portland sometime an Island is now adjoyned to the main-land The reason of which name is altogether unknowne unlesse it were so called because it lyeth full against the Port Weymouth but it soundeth more neere unto the truth that this name was given it of one Port a noble Saxon who about the yeare of our Salvation 703. infested and sore annoied these coasts This Portland in the declining state of the Saxons Empire for before-time writers never spake of it felt as much as any other place from time to time the violent rage of the Danes But when the Danish warre was ended it fell to the possession of the Church of Winchester For at what time as Emme mother to King Edward the Confessor whose name was called in question and she charged for incontinencie with Aldwin Bishop of Winchester had gone bare-foot upon nine culters red hot in Winchester Church without harme an unusuall kind of triall in those daies and then called Ordalium and so cleered her selfe of that imputation that she made her chastitie by so great a miracle more famous to posteritie She for a memoriall thereof gave nine Lordships to the Church of Winchester and King Edward her sonne repenting that hee had so wrongfully brought his mothers name into question bestowed likewise upon the said Church this Island with other revenues It is in compasse scarce seven miles rising up about the sides with high rocks but lying flat and low in the midst Inhabited scatteringly heere and there plentifull enough of corne and good to feed sheepe but so scant of woods that in default of other fewell they make their fire with oxe and cow dung dried The Inhabitants of all English-men were the cunningest slingers and very often doe find among the weeds or reeds of the sea Isidis Plocamos that is Isis haire which as Plinie reporteth out of Iuba is a shrub growing in the Sea not unlike unto Corall without leafe cut it up it turneth into a black colour and if it fall it soone breaketh On the East-side it hath one onely Church and very few houses standing close thereto and on the North a Castle built by King Henry the Eighth which also defendeth the entrance into the haven of Weimouth A little towne this is upon the mouth of Wey a small river over against which on the other side of the banke standeth Melcomb surnamed Regis that is Kings Melcomb divided from the other onely by the haven betweene But the priviledges of the haven were awarded from them by sentence of the Parliament howbeit afterwards recovered These stood both sometimes proudly upon their owne severall priviledges and were in emulation one of another but now God turne it to the good of both many they are by Authoritie of Parliament incorporated into one body conjoyned of late by a bridge and growne very much greater and goodlier in buildings by sea-adventures than heeretofore From thence the shore stretcheth out directly along by the Isle of Purbeck as they call it which for a great part of it is an heath and forrest like indeed replenished with Deere both red and fallow having also veines of marble running scatteringly heere and there under the ground In the midst whereof there is an old large castle named Corf seated upon a great slaty hill which after a long combat with time somewhat yielded as overcome unto time untill of late it hath beene repaired and is a notable testimony and memoriall of a Stepmothers hatred For Aelfrith to make way for her owne sonne Etheldred to the Crowne when Edward her sonne in law King of England came to visit her in this castle from his disport of hunting set some villaines and hacksters to murther him and like a most wicked Stepdame fed her eies with his bloud For which
service of Chamberlaine in Chef from our soveraigne Lord the King But under Edward the Third I have read that this was held by Sergeantie namely by holding the Laver or Ewre for the King his Soveraigne Lord to wash upon his Coronation day Also Raulph Moien held the Mannour of Owres neere adjoyning by service of Serjeantie in the Kitchin of the gift likewise of King Henry the First and R. de Welles the Mannour of Welles heereabout since the Conquest of England by the service of the Kings Baker Which I note onely by the way Where Frome maketh his issue into that Bay whereupon Poole is scituate hard by the very mouth is planted Warham in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 a towne strongly seated on every side but Westward as being fenced on all parts beside with the rivers Trent Frome and the Sea together In King Edward the Confessors time it had two Mint maisters but whiles William the Conquerour raigned it could not reckon above seven dwelling houses in it Yet afterwards it flourished againe fortified with the wall furnished with a mint house a great number of Inhabitants and a most strong Castle which that King William the First built it continued in a most flourishing state untill the daies of King Henry the Second who when hee came to challenge the Crowne of England in the yeare 1142 hee arrived heere besieged and tooke the Castle which was defended by Robert Lacy against him in behalfe of King Stephen and afterward Robert of Lincolne a man of mightie possessions in these parts defended the same against King Stephen But from that time by occasion partly of warres and partly of sudden casualtie by fires by reason also that the sea by little and little which draweth the commoditie of an haven it is almost run to ruine and in the very heart of the old towne it bringeth forth store of garlick At this mouth likewise is discharged another small river with Frome Asserius calleth it Trent but now the Inhabitants thereby name it Piddle From the North banke whereof scarce three miles off I saw the ruins of Middleton Abbey which King Athelstane founded as a satisfaction to appease the ghost and soule of his brother Edwine whom hee had deprived both of his Kingdome and life For when that solicitous desire of raigning had caused him quite to forget all Justice hee put the young Prince heire apparant to the Crowne with one page into a little whirrey without any tackling or furniture thereto to the end he might impute his wickednesse to the waves And so the young Prince overcome with griefe of heart and unable to master his owne passions cast himselfe headlong into the sea Under this Middleton there is voided also another river which runneth hard by Bere a little mercate towne where for a long time that ancient and famous family de Turbida villa commonly Turbervill had their chief habitation whereof as some were famous so Hugh Turburvill in the time of King Edward the First was infamous for his traiterous practises with the French But to goe backe againe to the West part of the shire At the spring head of Frome where the soile is most fruitfull the forrest of Blackmore sometimes thicke and full of trees but now thinner growne yeildeth plentifull game for hunting This by a more common and better knowne name is called The Forrest of white hart The reason of which name the Inhabitants by tradition from their forefathers report to be thus When King Henry the Third came hither to hunt and had taken other Deere he spared a most beautifull and goodly White-Hart which afterwards T. de la-Lynde a gentleman of this countrey with others in his company tooke and killed but how perillous a matter it was to bee twitching as they say of a lion they soone found and felt For the King conceived great indignation and high displeasure against them put them to a grievous fine of money for it and the very lands which they held pay even to this day every yeare by way of amercement a piece of money into the Exchequer which is called White hart silver There joyneth neere to this forrest Shirburne towne named also Shirburne Castle in old time 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which by interpretation is Fons Limpidus or as it is else where writen Fons clarus that is Pure fountaine or cleare well scited on the hanging of an hill a pleasant and proper seate as William of Malmesburie saith as well for the frequent number of Inhabitants as the scituation and now it is the most populous and best haunted towne of all this country and gaineth exceeding much by clothing In the yeare of our redemption 704 an Episcopall seat was heere erected and Aldelme the first Bishop there consecrated afterwards also in the raigne of Etheldred Herman the Bishop of Sunning having obtained this Bishoprick translated his Episcopall see hither and joyned the said Bishoprick of Sunning unto this which under William Conqueror the same Bishop translated to Sarisburie and reserved Shirburne to bee a retiring place for his Successors unto whom it belongeth as yet And one of them namely Roger built a strong Castle in the East-part thereof under which lay sometime a wide meere and many fish pooles and now being filled up are converted into most pleasant and rich medow ground As for the Cathedrall Church presently upon the translation of the See it became a monasterie againe and beareth shew of great antiquitie although not many became a monasterie againe and beareth shew of great antiquitie although not many yeares past in a broile betweene the townesmen and the Monks it was fired which the burnt and scorched colour upon the stones doth as yet most evidently shew Under this the river Iuell whereof I will speake some where else winding in and out with many curving reaches runneth Westward to Chiston the seate sometime of the linage de Maulbauch from which it descended hereditarily unto the family of the Horsâ—ies Knights where it entreth into Sommersetshire More toward the East the most famous river Stoure passing full of tenches and Eeles especially arising in Wiltshire out of six fountaines commeth downe to Stourton the honor and seat of the Barons of Stourton So soone as it entred in this Shire it passeth through Gillingham forrest in which Edmund surnamed Iron-side in a memorable battell put the Danes to flight and three miles from thence saluteth Shaftsbury standing upon an hill top very defective of water sometimes called by the Britaines as it is commonly but falsely thought Caer Paladur and in Latine by later writers Septonia by the Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 perhaps of the Churches Spire steeple such as they tearmed Scheafts A little before the Normans time it had in it 104. houses and three Mint masters as we read in that booke so often by me alleadged And afterwards it flourished the more by reason of a Nunnerie
hath now partly effected and in some sort over-mastred it A little beneath by Langport a proper market town the Rivers Ivel and Pedred running together make betweene them an Iland called Muchelney that is to say The great Iland wherein are to bee seene the defaced walles and ruines of an old Abbey built by King Athelstane as writers reporr This Pedred commonly named Parret hath his beginning in the verie edge or skirt of the shire southward and holding on a crooked and winding course thorow Crockhorne in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and Pedderton to whom it gave the name sometime Pedridan the Roiall seat of King Ina â— which towne now adayes is of none account unlesse it be for the market and Faire there held which Henrie Daubeney obtained of King Henrie the Sixth at this place runneth into Ivel and robbeth him of his name when hee is come downe three miles Eastward and hath bidden farewell to Montacute so termed by the Earle of Moriton brother by the Mothers side to King William the Conquerour who built a Castle upon the verie hill top and at the foot thereof a Priorie because the said hill riseth up by little and little to a sharpe pâ—int for before time it was called Logoresburgh and Biscopeston As for the Castle it came to nothing many yeeres since the stones thereof being had away to the repairing of the Monasterie and other houses Upon the pitch of the said hill there was a Chapell afterwards set and dedicated unto Saint Michael built with arch-worke and an embowed roofe overhead all of stone right artificially to which for halfe a mile wel nere men ascended upon stone-staires which in their ascent fetched a compasse round about the hil But now that the Priorie and chapell both be pulled down the faire and goodly house which Sir Edward Philips Knight and the Kings Sargeant at Law built lately at the hill foote maketh a very beautifull shew This high place Mont-acute hath given surname to that right honourable family of Montacute which had their beginning of Dru the younger Out of which there were foure Earles of Sarisburie the last of them left one daughter onely Alice who by Richard Nevil pare Richard that renowned Earle of Warwick who kept such stirres and made all England to shake also Iohn Nevil Marquesse Montacute who were both slaine at Barnet field in the yeere 1472. Afterward King Henrie the Eighth conferred the title of Lord Montacute upon Henrie Poole sonne of Margaret daughter to George Duke of Clarence that came of the daughter of that Richard Nevill aforesaid Earle of Warwicke and when hee had so done straightwaies made him shorter by the head afterwards Queene Marie advanced Anthonie Browne whose Grandmother was a daughter of Iohn Nevill Marquesse Montacute to the title and honour of Vicount Montacute which his Grandchild Anthonie who succeeded him now honourably enjoyeth And here I must not forget neither Preston sometime the seat of Iohn Sturton younger sonne to the first Lord Sturton one of whose heires was married to Sidenham of Brimton thereby neither Odcombe adjoyning thereto as small a towne as it is seeing it had a Baron of the owne William de Briewer for so was his father named in the Norman-French because he was borne in an heath who being taken up in the new Forrest by King Henrie the Second in a hunting journey prooved a great man and gratious in the Court as whom King Richard the First highly favored as his minion and all the world embraced and loved grew unto a verie wealthy estate married Beatrix of Vannes widow to Reginald Earle of Cornwall and his daughters for that his sonne died without issue by their marriages brought great possessions to their husbands Breos Wake La-fert and Piercy Under this towne hard by lieth Stoke under Hamden where the Gornaies had their Castle and built a Colledge This familie de Gornaico commonly named Gornay was verie ancient and of good account descended from the same stocke out of which the Warrens Earles of Surrie and the Mortimers are sprung but in the fore-going age it failed and some of their lands descended by the Hamptons to the house of the Newtons Knights who willignly acknowledge themselves to bee come out of Wales and not long since to have beene named Caradocks Neither must I passe over in silence how Matthew Gournay a most famous warriour in the raigne of Edward the Third was buried heere who in the fourescore and sixteenth yeere of his age ended this life when as appeareth by his Epitaph he had fought at the siege of Algizer against the Saracens in the battels of Benamazin Scluse Cressie Ingenos Poictiers and Nazars in Spaine Then Pedred watereth Martocke a litle market Towne which in times past William of Boloigne King Stephens sonne gave unto Faramuse of Boloigne whose sole heire Sibyll was wedded to Ingelraine Fienes from whom descended the Fienes Barons of Dacre and Lords Say and Sele Parret from hence thorow the mire and moorish plaine countrey holding his course Northward passed by Langport a market Towne well frequented and Aulre a Village consisting of a few poore Cottages which seemeth to have beene a Towne of good account for when King Elfred had given the Danes such an overthrow in battell and by strait siege compelled them to yeeld so farre forth that they tooke an oath immediatly to depart out of his dominions and Godrus their King promised to become Christian as writeth Asserius at this very place he with great pompe was Godfather to the said Godrus at the sacred Font. Beneath this place from the West Parret receiveth into it the river Thone which springing farre of in the West part of this Countrey very neere unto Devonshire runneth thorow most rich and pleasant fields passing downe neere Wivelscomb assigned anciently to the Bishops of Bathe and by Wellington which in the time of King Edward the elder was a land of â—ix Manentes what time hee granted it together with Lediard that had twelve Manentes Hides unto the Bishop of Shirburne Now a prettie market Towne it is and graced most by the habitation there of Sir Iohn Popham For vertuous men and such as have so well deserved of their countrey are not to bee passed in silence a man of an ancient worshipfull house and withall a most upright Iusticer and of singular industry who being Lord chiefe Iustice of the Kings Bench administreth his office toward malefactours with such holesome and available severity that England hath beene beholden unto him a long time for a great part of her private peace and home-securitie For thence with a soft streame and gentle fall Thone runneth by Thonton commonly Taunton and giveth it his name A very fine and proper Towne this is indeed and most pleasantly seated in a word one of the eyes of this shire where Ina King
of the West Saxons built a Castle which Desburgia his wife raced and laid even with the ground after shee had expelled from thence Eadbritch King of the South-Saxons who now had made himselfe Lord thereof and used it as a bridle to keepe the countrey under that he had subdued When Edward the Confessour was King it paid tribute as wee find in the Kings Survey-Booke of England after the rate of fiftie and foure Hides and had in it threescore and three Burgers The Bishop of Winchester held it as Lord and his courts or Pleas were kept heere thrice in the yeere And these Customes appertaine to Taunton Burgherists Theeves Breach of peace hannifare pence of the Hundred and pence of Saint Peter de Circieto thrice in the yeere to hold the Bishops Pleas without warning to goe forth to warfare with the Bishops men The Countrey heere most delectable on every side with greene medowes flourishing with pleasant Gardens and Orchards and replenished with faire Mannour houses wonderfully contenteth the eyes of the beholders And among these houses those of greatest note are these Orchard which had in times past Lords of that name from whom in right of Inheritance it descended unto the Portmans men of Knights degree Hach Beauchamp and Cory Mallet bearing those additions of their Lords For this was the seat of the Mallets that came of the Norman race and from them in short time it fell by the female heire to the Pointzes From among whom in the raigne of Edward the First Hugh was ranged in the rank of Parliament Barons and out of that familie some remaine at this day of great reputation and Knights in their Countrey As for those Beauchamps or de Bello Campo they flourished in high places of honour from the time of King Henrie the Second but especially since that Cecilie de Fortibus which derived her pedigree from the Earles de Ferrarijs and that great Marshall of England William Earle of Pembroke matched in marriage with this familie But in the raigne of Edward the Third the whole inheritance was by the sisters divided betweene Roger de S. Mauro or Seimore I. Meries men of ancient descent and great alliance And hereupon it was that King Henrie the Eight when he had wedded Iane Seimor mother to King Edward the Sixth bestowed upon Edward Seimor her brother the titles of Vicount Beauchamp and Earle of Hertfort whom King Edward the Sixth afterwards honoured first wiâ—h the name of Lord and Baron Seimor to bee annexed to his other titles lest as the King saith in the Patent the name of his mothers familie should bee overshadowed with any other stile and yet afterward created him Duke of Sommerset As you goe from thence where Thone windeth himselfe into Parret it maketh a pretty Iland betweene two rivers called in times past Aethelingey that is The Isle of Nobles now commonly knowen by the name of Athelney a place no lesse famous among us for King Alfreds shrowding himselfe therein what time as the Danes now had brought all into broile then those Marishes of Minturny among the Italians wherein Marius lurked and lay hidden For touching that King an ancient Poet wrote thus Mixta dolori Gaudia semper erant spes semper mixta timori Si modó victor erat ad crastiná bella pavebat Si modó victus erat ad crastina bella parabat Cui vestes sudore jugi cui sica cruore Tincta jugi quantum sit onus regnare probarunt With dolour great his joyes were mixt his hope was joyn'd with dread If now he victour were next day of warres he stood affraid If vanquisht now the morrow next forthwith hee thought it good For to prepare for warre his sword was aye begoard in blood His garments eke with painfull sweat were evermore bestain'd Which well did shew what burden great he bare while that he raign'd And in truth this Isle afforded him a very fit shrowding corner for that by reason of waters partly standing there in plashes and partly resorting reflowing thither which Asserius termed Gronnas Latinizing a Saxon word there is in manner no accesse into it It had sometime a bridge betweene two castles built by Aelfred and a very large grove of Alders full of goates and wild beasts but of firme ground scarce two acres in breadth on which as saith William of Malmesbury whose words these are and not mine hee founded a little Monasterie the whole frame whereof hanged upon foure maine posts pitched fast in the ground with foure round isles of Sphaerick work contrived and brought round about the same Not far from this Isle Parret having received the said river runneth alone swelling with certaine sandy shelfes sometime in his channell by the Hundred of N. Pederton anciently acknowledging the Bluets to have beene Lords thereof who are thought to have brought that name from Bluet in litle Britaine Heere it taketh into him an other river from East to beare him company which openeth it self neere Castle Cary which William Lovell Lord thereof held against K. Stephen in the behalfe of Mawd the Empresse right inheritrix of the Crown of England whose issue male failing in the time of King Edward the Third by heire female it came to Nicolas de S. Maure a Baron of a distinct familie from that which was a few lines before mentioned and shortly after about the time of Henrie the Fift by an heire female againe to the Lord Zouches of Harringworth as a moitie of the lands of Lord Zouch of Ashby de la Zouch came before by coheires to the house of this S. Maures But when the Lord Zouch was attainted by K. Henrie the Seventh for assisting King Richard the Third this Castle was given by the K. to Robert Willoughby Lord Brooke as his lands at Bridge-water to the Lord Daubency and then hee was restored in bloud From Castle Cary this water passeth by Lites-Cary to bee remembred in respect of the late owner Thomas Lyte a gentleman studious of all good knowledge and so to Somerton the Shire towne in times past as which gave the name thereto A Castle it had of the West Saxon Kings which Ethelbald King of Mercia forcing a breach through the wals sieged and kept But now time hath gotten the mastry of it so as that there is no apparance at all thereof and the very Towne it selfe would have much a doe to keepe that name were it not for a Faire of oxen and other beasts which is kept there from Palme-Sunday untill the midst of Iune with much resort of people for that the countrimen all there about are very great Grasiers breeders and feeders of cattell No sooner hath Parret entertained this river but he speeds him apace toward a great and populous towne commonly called Bridg-water and is thought to have taken that name of the Bridge and water there but the old records and evidences gaine say this opinion wherein it is
of fame doth sound aloft The Roman Stories eke Much praise and honour both of their Triumphant Caesars speake And Hercules exalted is for taming Monsters fell But Pine-trees hazels low as Sunne the Starres doe farre excell Both Greeke and Latine Annals read no former age his Peere Nor future time his match can shew For this is plaine and cleere In goodnesse hee and greatnesse both surmounts Kings all and some Better alone than all before greater than those to come And this worthy Knight that I may note so much also by the way out of Ninnius the Britan if it be worth the noting was called Mab uter that is A terrible or dreadfull Sonne because hee was from his childhood cruell and Artur which in the British tongue importeth as much as a horrible beare or any yron mall wherewith the Lions jawes are bruised and broken Lo here also if it please you other monuments of this place though they bee not of the greatest antiquitie out of the foresaid William of Malmesburie That quoth he which to all men is altogether unknowen I would gladly relate if I could picke out the truth namely what those sharp pillars or pyramides should meane which beeing set distant certaine feet from the old Church stand in the front and border of the Churchyard The highest of them and that which is neerer to the Church than the rest hath five stories and carrieth in height six and twentie foot Which albeit for age it be ready to fall yet hath it certaine antiquities to be seene that plainly may be read although they cannot so easily bee understood For in the uppermost storie there is an Image in habit and attire of a Bishop in the next under it the statue of a King in his royall robes and these Letters HER. SEXI and BLISVVER◠In the third these names likewise and nothing else WEMCHEST BANTOMP WINEVVEGNE In the fourth HATE WVLFREDE c. EANFLEDE In the fifth which is the lowest a portaict and this writing LOGVVOR WESLIELAS c. BREGDENE SVVELVVES HVVINGENDES BERNE The other Pyramis is eighteene foot high and hath foure floores or stories in which you may read HEDDE Bishop c. BREGORRED c. BEORVVALDE What all this should signifie I take not upon me rashly to define but by conjecture I gather that in some hollowed stones within are contained the bones of those whose names are read without Surely LOGVVOR is affirmed for certaine to be the same man of whose name the place was sometime called LOOVVERESBEORGH which now they call Mont-acute And BEORVVALDE semblably was Abbat next after HEMGISELVS To reckon up here the Kings of the West-Saxons that were buried in this place would be but needlesse Howbeit King Edgar the Peaceable who alwaies tendred peace in regard thereof if there were nothing else I cannot but remember and put downe his Epitaph not unbeseeming that age wherein he lived Auctor opum vindex scelerum largitor honorum Sceptriger Edgarus regna superna petit Hic alter Salomón legum pater orbita pacis Quód caruit bellis claruit inde magis Templa Deo templis monachos monachis dedit agros Nequitiae lapsum Iustitiaeque locum Novit enim regno verum perquirere falso Immensum modico perpetuumque brevi That well of wealth and scourge of sinne that honour-giver great King Edgar hence is gone to hold in heaven his royall seat This second Salomon that was laws-father Prince of peace In that he wanted warres the more his glorie had increase Churches to God to Churches Monkes to Monks faire Lands he gave Downe went in his daies wickednesse and Iustice place might have A pure crowne for a counterfeit he purchased once for all An endlesse Kingdome for a short a boundlesse for a small Beneath Glascon three Rivers which there meete doe make a meere and issuing forth at one litle mouth runne all in one channell West-ward to Uzella Frith first by Gedney or as others will have it Godney more which they say signifieth Gods Iland and was granted to Ioseph of Arimathea then by Weadmoore a Mannour of King Aelfreds which by his last Will and Testament hee gave as a legacie to his sonne Edward and so by that moory or fenny-country Crentmaesh that runneth out verie farre which the Monkes of Glastenburie interpreted to bee the Countrey of Fen Frogges like as the litle Towne Brentknoll there which signifieth Frog-hill From thence Eastward Mendippe hils extend themselves in length and bredth Leland calleth them Minerarios that is the Minerall hills and rightly as I suppose seing they be in old writings named Muneduppe for rich they are in lead mines and good to feed cattell Among these hils there is a cave or denne farre within the ground wherein are to be seene certaine pits and rivelets the place they call Ochie-hole whereof the Inhabitants feine no fewer tales nor devise lesse dotages than the Italians did of their Sibyls Cave in the mountaine Apenninus The name no doubt grew of Ogo a British word that betokeneth a Den even of the like den the Isle Euboea was by such another name sometime called Ocha Not far hence in the raigne of K. Henrie the Eighth was turned up with the plough a table of lead somewhat long which lay long at Lambith in the Duke of Norfolkes house erected sometime for a trophee in token of victorie with this inscription TI. CLAUDIUS CAESAR AUG P. M. TRIB P. VIIII IMP. XVI DE BRITAN This Tribuneship of Claudius here mentioned fell out to be in the 802. yeere after the foundation of Rome when Antistus and M. Suillius were Consuls what time P. Ostorius Governour of Britaine as Vice-Pretour was welcomed thither with many troubles Out of this time give me leave I pray you to frame certain conjectures That in this yeere Claudius erected two Trophees or monuments of victorie over the Britans his owne ancient coine sheweth as a most certaine witnesse in the forepart whereof is this plaine Inscription TI. CLAVD CAESAR AVG. P. M. TR. P. VIIII IMP. XVI P. P. and in the reverse thereof DE BRITAN and there is expressely stamped a triumphall Arch with an Image of one gallopping on horsebacke and with two triumphall pillars What Britaines these were then vanquished Tacitus sheweth testifying that this yeare Claudius by the conduct of Ostorius subdued two Nations of the Britans this yeare to wit The ICENI and the CANGI But forasmuch as the Iceni lay as it were in another climate What if I said this Trophee was set up in token of victorie over the Cangi a smaller nation among our Belga and that those CANGI were seated in these parts For not far from hence is the sea that lieth toward Ireland neere which he placeth the Cangi of whose name there seemeth as yet in certaine places of this tract some shadow to remaine namely in Cannington Cannings pettie countries and Hundreds as also in Wincaunton which
elsewhere is called Cangton But of these matters let the reader be judge my selfe as I said doth no more but conjecture whiles I seeke to trace out these their footsteps and hope to find them out some where-else Among these hils standeth Chuton which was the habitation if I take not my markes amisse of William Bonvill whom King Henrie the Sixth called by his writ of Summons to the Parliament by the name William de Bonvill and Chuton among other Barons of the Realme made him Knight of the Garter and richly matched his sonne in marriage with the sole daughter of Lord Harington But when he unthankefull man that he was in the heate of civill warre revolted and tooke part with the house of Yorke as if vengeance had pursued him hard at heeles that onely sonne of his he saw taken from him by untimely death and his nephew by the same sonne Baron of Harington slaine at the battell of Wakefield and immediately after that his old age might want no kind of miserie whiles he waited still and long looked for better daies was himselfe taken prisoner in the second battell of Saint Albans and having now run through his full time by course of nature lost his head leaving behind him for his heire his Grand-childs daughter Cecilie a Damsel of tender yeares who afterwards with a great inheritance was wedded to Thomas Greie Marquesse Dorset But his bloud after his death was by authoritie of Parliament restored Under Mendip hills northward there is a little village called Congersburie so named of one Congar a man of singular holinesse Capgrave hath written that hee was the Emperours sonne of Constantinople who lived there an Eremite also Harpetre a Castle by right of inheritance fell to the Gornaies and from them descended to the Ab-Adams who as I have read restored it to the Gornaies again Southward not farre from the foresaid hole where Mendip slopeth downe with a stony descent a little citie with an Episcopall See is scituate beneath at the hill foot sometime called as saith Leland but whence he had it I wot not Theodorodunum now Welles so named of the Springs or Wels which boile and walme up there like as Susa in Persia Croia in Dalmatia and Pagase in Macedonia were named of the like fountaines in their countrey speech whereupon this also in Latin is called Fontanensis Ecclesia as one would say Fountain-Church Fot multitude of Inhabitants for faire and stately buildings it may well and truely chalenge the preheminence of all this Province A goodly Church it hath and a Colledge founded by King Ina in honour of Saint Andrew and soone after endowed by Princes and great men with rich livings and revenewes among whom King Kinewolph by name in the yeare of our Lord 766. granted unto it very many places lying thereabout For in a Charter of his wee reade thus I Kinewolph King of the West-Saxons for the love of God and that which is not openly to be spoken for some vexation of our enemies those of the Cornish Nation with the consent of my Bishops and Nobles will most humbly give and consecrate some parcell of Land to Saint Andrew the Apostle and servant of God that is to say as much as commeth to Eleven Hides neere to the River called Welwe for the augmentation of that Monasterie which standeth neere the great fountaine that they call Wiclea This Charter have I set downe both for the antiquitie and because some have supposed that the place tooke name of this River verily neere the Church there is a Spring called Saint Andrewes Well the fairest deepest and most plentifull that I have seene by and by making a swift Brooke The Church it selfe all throughout is very beautifull but the Frontispiece thereof in the West end is a most excellent and goodly piece of worke indeede for it ariseth up still from the foot to the top all of imagerie in curious and antike wise wrought of stone carved and embowed right artificially and the Cloisters adjoyning very faire and spacious A gorgeous pallace of the Bishops built in manner of a Castle fortified with walles and a moate standeth hard by Southward and on the other side faire houses of the Prebendaries For Seven and Twenty Prebends with nineteene other petty Prebends beside a Deane a Chaunter a Chancellour and three Archdeacons belong to this Church In the time of K. Edward the elder a Bishops See was here placed For when the Pope had suspended him because the Ecclesiasticall discipline and jurisdiction in these westerne parts of the Realme began openly to decay then he knowing himselfe to be a maintainer and Nurse-father of the Church ordained three new Bishopricks to wit of Cridie Cornwall and this of Welles where hee made Eadulph the first Bishop But many yeares after when Giso sate Bishop there Harold Earle of the West-Saxons and of Kent who gaped so greedily for the goods of the Church so disquieted and vexed him that hee went within a little off quite abolishing the dignitie thereof But King William the Conquerour after hee had overthrowne Harold stretched out his helping hand to the succour of banished Giso and reliefe of his afflicted Church At what time as witnesseth Doomesday booke the Bishop held the whole towne in his owne hands which paid tribute after the proportion of fiftie Hides Afterwards in the raigne of Henry the First Iohannes de Villula of Tours in France being now elected Bishop translated his See to Bathe since which time the two Sees growing into one the Bishop beareth the title of both so that hee is called The Bishop of Bathe and Welles Whereupon the Monkes of Bathe and Canons of Welles entred into a great quarrell and skuffled as it were each with the other about the choosing of their Bishops Meane while Savanaricus Bishop of Bathe being also Abbat of Glastenbury translated the See of Glastenbury and was called Bishop thereof but when hee died this title died with him and the Monkes and Canons aforesaid were at length brought to accord by that Robert who divided the Patrimonie of Welles Church into Prebends instituting a Deane Sub-deane c. Joceline also the Bishop about the same time repaired the Church with new buildings and within remembrance of our Grand-fathers Raulph of Shrewsburie so some call him built a very fine Colledge for the Vicars and singing-men fast by the North side of the Church and walled in the Bishops Palace But this rich Church was dispoiled of many faire possessions in the time of King Edward the Sixth when England felt all miseries which happen under a Child-King As ye goe from the Palace to the market-place of the towne Thomas Beckington the Bishop built a most beautifull gate who also adjoyned thereto passing faire houses all of uniforme height neere the Market-place in the middest whereof is to be seene a Market-place supported with seven Columnes or pillar without arched
Under which betweene the confluences of Avon and Frome there is a plaine beset round about with trees yielding a most pleasant walking place South-east where no rivers are to guard it Robert the base sonne of King Henry the First whom they commonly name Robert Rufus and Consull of Glocester because he was Earle of Glocester built a large and strong Castle for the defence of this Citie and of a pious and devout affection appointed every tenth stone to the building of a Chappell neere unto the Priory of S. Iames which he likewise founded by the Citie side This Robert had to wife Mabile the onely daughter and heire of Robert Fitz-Hamon who held this towne by vassalage in Capite of King William Conquerour This Castle was scarcely built when King Stephen besieged it but with lost labour for he was compelled to raise his siege and depart and a few yeares after was imprisoned in the same giving thereby a testimony and proofe how uncertaine the chance of war is Beyond the river Frome which hath a bridge over it at Frome-gate there riseth an high hill with a steepe and crooked ascent so as it is painefull to goe up unto it From whence ye have a most faire and goodly prospect to the Citie and haven underneath This hill in the very top and pitch thereof spreadeth presently into a large greene and even plaine which in the midst is shadowed with a double row and course of trees and among them stands a pulpit of Stone and a Chapell wherein by report lieth enterred Iordan the companion of Augustine the Englishmens Apostle Now it is converted to a Schoole and on both sides to say nothing of the neate and fine houses of private men beautified it is with publike and stately buildings Of the one side was a Collegiat Church called Gaunts of the founder one Henry Gaunt Knight who relinquishing the world in this place betooke himselfe to the service of God but now through the bounty of Thomas Carr a wealthy Citizen converted to the keeping of Orphans on the other side directly over against it stand two Churches dedicated to S. Augustine the one which is the lesse a Parish-Church the other that is greater the Bishops Cathedrall Church endowed with sixe Prebendaries by King Henrie the Eighth the greatest part whereof is now destroied where the Colledge-gate workemanly built carrieth in the front this Inscription REX HENRICVS II. ET DOMINVS ROBERTVS FILIVS HARDINGI FILII REGIS DACIAE HVIVS MONASTERII PRIMI FVNDATORES EXTITERVNT That is King Henry the Second and Lord Robert the sonne of Harding the King of Denmarks sonne were the first founders of of this Monasterie This Robert called by the Normans Fitz-Harding descended of the bloud royall of Denmarke was an Alderman of Bristow of King Henry the Second so entirely beloved that by his meanes Maurice his sonne married the daughter of the Lord of Barkley Whereby his posteritie who flourished in great honor are unto this day called Barons of Barkley and some of them have beene buried in this Church From hence as Avon holdeth on his course there are on each side very high cliffes by nature set there as it were of purpose the one of them which on the East-side overlooketh the river beareth the name of S. Vincents rocke so full of Diamonds that a man may fill whole strikes or bushels of them These are not so much set by because they be so plentious For in bright and transparent colour they match the Indian Diamonds if they passe them not in hardnesse onely they are inferior to them but in that nature her self hath framed them pointed with sixe cornerd or foure cornerd smooth sides I thinke them therefore worthy to be had in greater admiration The other rock also on the West-side is likewise full of Diamonds which by the wonderfull skill and worke of nature are enclosed as young ones within the bowels of hollow and reddish flints for here is the earth of a red colour When Avon hath left these rocks behind him with full channell at length he disengorgeth himselfe into the Severn-sea Then remaineth now to reckon up the Earles and Dukes of this County The first Earle of Somerset by tradition was William de Mâ—hun or Moion who may seeme to be the very same whom Maude the Empresse in a charter whereby she created William de Mandevill Earle of Essex taketh as a witnesse under this name Comes W. de Moion Neither from that time meete we with any expresse and apparent mention of Earles of Somerset unlesse it be in these letters Patents of King Henrie the Third unto Peter de Mawley which that I may draw out the judgement of others I will heere set downe literally Know yee that we have received the homage of our well beloved Vncle William Earle of Sarisbury for all the lands that he holdeth of us principally for the County or Earledom of Somerset which we have given unto him with all appurtenances for his homage and service saving the royaltie to our selves and therefore we will command you that ye see he have full sesine of the foresaid Earledome and all the appurtinances therto and that ye entermeddle not in any thing from henceforth as touching the County or Earledome aforesaid c. And commandement is given to all Earles Barons Knights and Freeholders of the County of Somerset that unto the same Earle they doe fealtie and homage saving their faith and allegiance unto their soveraigne Lord the King and that from henceforth they be intentive and answerable unto him as their Lord. Whether by these words in the Patent he was Earle of Somerset as also of Denshire for of the same William he wrote likewise in the very same words unto Robert de Courtney I leave for other men to judge Under this King Henry the third as wee finde in a booke written in French which pertaineth to the house of the Mohuns Knights it is recorded that Pope Innocentius in a solemne feast ordained Reginald Mohun Earle de Ests that is as the Author doth interpret it Of Somerset by delivering unto him a golden consecrated rose and an yearely pension to be paied upon the high Altar of S. Pauls in London So that this Reginald may seeme to have beene not properly an Earle but an Apostolicall Earle For so were they termed in those daies who had their creation from the Bishop of Rome like as they were called Earles Imperiall whom the Emperor invested and such had power to institute Notaries and Scribes to legitimate such as were base borne c. under certaine conditions A long time after Iohn de Beaufort the base sonne of Iohn of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster by Katherine Swineford being made legitimate by King Richard the Second together with his brethren and sister with consent of the Parliament was preferred to the honor of Earle of Somerset and afterwards created Marquesse Dorset but soone after
deprived thereof by King Henrie the Fourth having the title onely of the Earle of Somerset left unto him The said Iohn had three sonnes Henry Earle of Somerset who died in his tender age Iohn created by King Henry the Fifth the first Duke of Somerset who had one sole daughter named Margaret mother to King Henry the Seventh and Edmund who succeeded after his brother in the Dukedome and having beene a certaine time Regent of France being called home and accused for the losse of Normandie after hee had suffred much grievance at the peoples hands in that regard was in that wofull war betweene the houses of Lancaster and Yorke slaine in the first battaile of S. Albans Henrie his sonne being placed in his roome whiles hee served the times siding one while with Yorke and anotherwhile with Lancaster in the battaile at Exham was by those of the houses of Yorke taken prisoner and with the losse of his head paied for his unconstant levitie Edmund his brother succeeded him in his honor who of this family was the last Duke of Somerset and when the whole power of the Lancastrians was discomfited at Tewkesbury was forcibly pulled out of the Church into which all embrued with bloud he fled as into a Sanctuary and then beheaded Thus all the legitimate males of this family being dead and gone first King Henry the Seventh honored with title Edmund his owne son a young child who shortly departed this world afterwards King Henry the Eighth did the like for his base sonne named Henry Fitz-Roy And seeing he had no children King Edward the Sixth invested Sir Edward de Sancto Mauro commonly Seimor with the same honour who being most power-able honorable and loaden with titles for thus went his stile Duke of Somerset Earle of Hertford Vicount Beauchamp Baron Seimor Vncle to the King Governor of the King Protector of his Realmes Dominions and subjects Lieutenant of the forces by land and sea Lord high Treasurer and Earle Marshall of England Captaine of the Isles Gernsey and Iarsey c. Was sodainely overwhelmed as it were by a disport of fortune which never suffereth suddaine over-greatnesse to last long and for a small crime and that upon a nice point subtlely devised and packed by his enemies bereaved both of those dignities and his life withall In this Countie are numbred Parishes 385. WILTONIAE Comitatus herbida Plâ—nicie nobilis vulâ—o will Shire pars olim BELGARVM WILSHIRE WIl-shire which also pertained to the BELGAR called in the English-Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 in Latine commly termed Wiltonia taking that denomination of Wilton sometime the chiefe towne like as it of the River Willy is altogether a mediterranean or mid-land country For enclosed it is with Somersetshire on the West Berkshire and Hampshire on the East on the North with Glocestershire and on the South with Dorsetshire and a part of Hampshire A Region which as it breedeth a number of warlike and hardy men who in old time with Cornwall and Denshire together challenged by reason of their manhood and martiall prowesse the prerogative in the English armie of that regiment which should second the maine battell as saith Iohn of Sarisburie in his Polycraticon so is it exceeding fertill and plentifull of all things yea and for the varietie thereof passing pleasant and delightsome The Northern and upper part which they call North-Wilshire riseth up somewhat with delectable hils attired in times past with large and great woods which now begin to grow thinne and watered with cleare rivers For Isis the principall and as it were Prince of all the English Rivers which afterwards taketh to him the name of Tamisis that is Thames being now as yet but little and shallow together with other Rivers of lesse name which I will speake of in their proper places water it plentifully The South part with large grassie plaines feedeth innumerable flocks of sheepe having his Rivers swelling Brookes and rils of everliving fountaines The middest of this shire which for the most part also lieth even and plain is divided overthwart from East to West with a Dike of wonderfull worke cast up for many miles together in length The people dwelling there about call it Wansdike which upon an errour generall received they talke and tell to have beene made by the divell upon a Wednesday For in the Saxon tongue it is called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is to say The Ditch of Wooden or Mercurie and as it should seeme of Wooden that false imagined God and Father of the English-Saxons But I have alwaies beene perswaded that the Saxons made it as a limit to divide the two Kingdomes of the Mercians and West-Saxons asunder For this was the very place of battell betweene them whiles they strove one with another to enlarge their Dominions And neere unto this Dike standeth Wodensburg a little Village where Ceauline the most warlike King of the West-Saxons in the yeare of grace 590. whiles hee defended his Marches in a bloudy fight received such a foile and overthrow by the Britans and Englishmen that he was forced to flie his countrey and to end his daies in exile a pitious and lamentable spectacle even to his very enemies And at this Dike to say nothing of other accidents Ina the West-Saxon and Ceolred the Mercian joyned battell and departed the field on even hand Like to this was that ditch whereby King Offa kept the Britans off from his Mercians called even at this day Offa-dike others also are still to be seene among the East-Angles in Cambridgeshire and Suffolke wherewith they limited their territory and defended themselves from the inrodes and invasions of the Mercians In the North-part of Wilshire which is watered with Isis or the Thames there is a towne called Creckelade by Marianus by others Greekelade of Greeke Philosophers as some are ready to beleeve who as the historie of Oxford reporteth began there an Universitie which afterwards was translated to Oxford West from that is Highworth highly seated a well knowne Market but South from Creckelade I saw Lediard Tregoze the seat of the Familie of Saint-Iohn Knights the which Margaret de Bello Campo or Beauchamp afterwards Duchesse of Somerset gave to Oliver of Saint Iohn her second sonne For to her it came as an inheritance by Patishul Grandison and Tregoze names of great honour Wotton Basset bordeth hard upon this having this primitive name from Wood the addition doth prove that it belonged to the Noble house of the Bassets But in the latter fore-going age it was as I have heard say the habitation of the Duke of Yorke who made there a verie large Parke for to enclose Deere in From hence Breden wood now Breden Forrest stretched it selfe farre and wide which in the yeare 905. by Ethelwald Clyto and the Danes that aided him was laid waste and the Inhabitants endured all calamities of warre On the West side whereof the River Avon above mentioned
now a little village but sometime King Etheldreds mansion house and for that the Earles of Cornwall were wont to retire themselves and sojourne there it was of good account within view whereof is Castlecombe an old Castle ennobled sometimes by the Lords of it the Walters of Dunstavill men of great renowne in their time out of whose house the Writhosleies Earles of Southampton are descended Petronilla or Parnell daughter and sole heire of the last Walter was wedded unto Robert de Montfore and bare unto him William his Sonne who sold this Castle with the rest of his lands and possessions unto Bartholomew Badilsmer from whom as I have heard it passed to the Scrâ—opes who ever since have held it But now returne we unto the river upon which are seated Leckham the possession of the noble family of the Bainards where pieces of Roman money have oftentimes beene found and Lacocke where the most godly and religious woman Dame Ela Countesse of Salisburie being now a widdow built a Monasterie like as shee did another at Henton in the yeare 1232. to the honour of the blessed Virgin Marie and Saint Bernard in which her selfe devoutly dedicated both her bodie and soule to the service of God Avon from hence shadowed with trees holding on his course not far from Brumham an inhabitation in times past of the Baron Samond or truly De Sancto Amando Saint Amand afterward of the Baintons from them before hee admitteth to him a little rivelet from the East that putteth forth his head neere unto the Castle De Vies Devizes or the Vies Florentius of Worcester calleth it Divisio and Neubergentis Divisae Heretofore a stately place I assure you very strong as well by naturall scituation as by mans hand but through the injurie of time now decaied and defaced This Castle that it might disgrace and put downe all other Castles in England Roger Bishop of Salisburie whom from a poore masse-Priest Fortune had exalted unto the highest authoritie next the King at his excessive charges built But Fortune as one saith hath set no man so high but she threatneth to take from him as much as she hath permitted him to have For King Stephen upon a displeasure wrung from him both this Castle and that also of Shirburne together with all his wealth and riches as great as it was yea and brought the silly old man so low in prison what with hunger and what with other miseries that betweene the feare of death and torments of this life he had neither will to live nor skill to die At which time was handled canvased or rather tossed to and fro this question whether by the Canons and Decrees of Church Bishops might hold Castles or if this be by indulgence tolerated whether they ought not in dangerous and suspected times surrender them up into the Kings hands Avon having received this rivelet to beare him company maketh away westward and straight waies another brook from the South runneth into him which hath given name to the house standing upon it called likewise Barons Brooke which as it afforded habitation in old time to Iohn Pavely Lord of Westburie Hundred so afterwards it gave the title of Baron to Robert Willoughby because by the Chenies hee derived his pedigree from Paveley what time as King Henrie the Seventh advanced him to a Barons dignitie as being high in his favour Steward of his house and appointed by report for a while Admirall Whereupon he used the Helme of a ship for a seale in his ring like as Pompey in times past Governour of the Roman Navie the stemme or Prow thereof in his coines But this family fading as it were and dying in the verie blade quickly came to an end For he left a sonne Robert Lord Brooke who of a former wife begat Edward his sonne that died before his father leaving a daughter married to Sir Foulke Grevil and of a second wife two daughters by whom a great inheritance and rich estate conveied to the Marquesse of Winchester and Lord Montjoy Neere unto this Eastward lieth Edindon in old time Eathandune where King Alfred in as memorable a battell as any time else most fortunately vanquished the bold insolent and outragious Danes and drave them to this hard passe that they swore in a set forme of oath forthwith to depart out of England In which place also William de Edindon Bishop of Winchester whom King Edward highly favoured here borne and taking his name from hence erected a Colledge Bonis hominibus Bon-homes as they called them that is for good men But at the little river aforesaid somewhat higher standeth upon a hill Trubridge sometimes 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is a sure and trusty bridge But for what cause this name was set upon it it is not for certaine knowne In great name and prosperitie it is in these daies by reason of clothing and sheweth the remaines of a Castle which belongeth to the Duchie of Lancaster and sometime of the Earle of Salisburie Avon thus increased by this rivelet watereth Bradford in the foregoing times Bradanford so named of a broad foard scituate upon the descent or fall of an hill and built all of stone where Kenilwalch King of the West-Britans embrued his sword wiuh bloud in civill warre against Cuthred his neere kinsman Here Avon biddeth Wil-shire farewell and entreth closely into the Countie of Somerset minding to visit the Bathes The West limit of this shire goeth downe directly from hence Southward by Long-leat the dwelling place of the Thins descended from the Bâ—ttevils a verie faire neate and elegant house in a foule soile which although once or twice it hath beene burnt hath risen eftsones more faire Also by Maiden Bradley so called of one of the Inhabitants of Manasses Basset a most noble personage in his time who being her selfe a maiden infected with the leprosie founded an house heere for maidens that were lepers and endowed the same with her owne Patrimonie and Livetide like as her Father before time had thereabout erected a Priorie Likewise by Stourton the seate of the Lords Stourton whom King Henry the Sixth raised to this dignitie after their estaâ—e had beene much bettered in lands and revenues by marriage with the Daughter and heire of the family Le Moigne or Monke of Essex and not of Mohun as some hitherto have beene falsely perswaded and hereupon it is that they have borne for their Crest A Demi-Monke with a whip in his hand The place tooke his name of the River Stour that under this towne walmeth out of sixe fountaines which the Stourtons Lords of the place have brought into their shield sables By Maiden Bradley above said glideth Dever-rill a prettie small Rill so called for that like as Anas in Spaine and Mole in Surrey which tooke their names thereupon it divideth as it were under the ground and a mile off rising up here againe
them have very goodly houses also adjoyning to the Church and all these buildings stand within the close wall severed from the Citie As the Bishop was busied about erecting of Gods house the Citizens likewise for their parts did their best to found the Citie they established their civill government derived rilles and servers of waters into every street and cast a deepe ditch all along that side on which it is not fenced with the running river having obtained licence of Simon the Bishop thus to strengthen and fortifie the same And in such sort grew up this new Salisburie by little an little out of the ruines of old Sorbiodunum that so soone as they by the Kings warrant had turned hither the high-way that leadeth into the West parts it became the second Citie in all this tract passing well inhabited and frequented plentifull of all things especially of fish adorned with a very stately market place wherein standeth their common Hall of timber worke a very beautifull edifice But nothing is there whereof it may so much boast as of Iohn Iowell not long since Bishop there a wonderfull great and deepe Divine a most stout and earnest maintainer of our reformed religion against the adversaries by his learned books Old Sorbiodunum from thence forward decaied more and more and in the raigne of King Henrie the Seventh became utterly desolate so as at this day there remaineth onely a towre or two of the Castle which notwithstanding a long time after the departure of the townesmen from thence was the dwelling house of the Earles of Salisburie and about which in King Edward the Thirds time there arose a memorable controversie and suite For Robert Bishop of Salisburie stirred Milliam Mont acute Earle of Salisburie by vertue of a processe which our Lawyers terme Breve de Recto that is A writ of right for this Castle and hee made answer that hee would defend his right by combat Whereupon at a day appointed the Bishop â—rought forth his champion to the railes or bars of the Lists clâ—d in a white garment reaching downe to his mid-leg upon which he had a mandilian or cassocke garnished with the Bishops Armes at whose heeles followed a Knight carrying a staffe and a page with a shield Immediately after the Earle brought in by the hand his owne champion also arraied in the like apparell accompanied with two Knights bearing white staves Now when these Champions were to enter the Lists commanded they were to withdraw themselves aside that their weapons of both parts might be viewed and they searched whether they had any Amulers or Enchantments about them But all on a suddaine unlooked for came the Kings precept to reprive and defer the matter to a further day that the King might loose thereby none of his right Meane while they grew to this composition That the Earle for the summe of 2500. markes paied and received should yield up all his title and interest in the Castle to the Bishop and his successors for ever This Salisburie had long agoe Earles of that name whose pedigree I will derive somewhat farther off and more truly out of the short reports of Lacock Historie William Conqueror of his bounty liberalitie assigned unto Gualter de Evereaux Earle of Rosmar in Normandie faire lands and large possessions in this shire which he left unto Edward named de Sarisburia a younger sonne borne in England like as to Walter his eldest sonne other lands in Normandie with the Title of Earle of Rosmar whose issue within a while after was extinct That Edward of Sarisburie aforesaid flourished in the twentieth yeere of the Conquerours reigne and is often times barely named in the Indiciarie booke of England without the title of Earle His sonne Walter built a a little monasterie at Bradenstocke and there in his old age tooke him to the habit of a Canon or Regular priest after he had first begotten his sonne Patricke the first Earle of Salisburie upon Sibil de Cadurcis This Patricke I say the first Earle in his returne from his pilgrimage at S. Iames of compostella in Spain in the yeere of our Lord 1169. being slaine by one Guy of Lusigniam left William his sonne to succeede who died in King Richard the first his time His onely daughter Ela through the favour of the said King Richard was married to William Long Espee surnamed so of a long sword that he did usually weare a base sonne of King Henrie the second and her marriage honoured him with the title of Earle and her owne coat of Armes be Azur adorned with sixe Lions Ceux This William had a sonne named likewise William Long-Espee against whom King Henrie the Third conceiving great displeasure for that without licence obtained he was gone to serve in the holy land taking the crosse as they termed it upon him took from him both the title of Earle and also the Castle of Salisburie But he holding still his purpose went into Egypt with S. Lewis King of France and neere unto Damiata which the Christians had wonne carrying a brave and valorous minde fighting manfully among the thickkest troops of his enemies died an honorable and glorious death a little before that holy King was unfortunately taken prisoner His sonne named likewise William lived without the title of Earle and begat one onely daughter Margaret who neverthelesse being reputed Countresse of Salisburie became the wife of Henry Lacy Earle of Lincoln unto whom she bare one only daughter Alice wedded to Thomas Earle of Lancaster Who being attainted King Edward the Second seized upon those possessions which she had granted and demised unto her husband out of which King Edward the Third gave way unto Willam Mont-acute Trowbridg Winterbourn Ambresburie and other Lordships in these words So fully and wholly as the Progenitours of Margaret Countesse of Salisbury at any time held the same And even then hee preferred the said William Mont-acute to be Earle of Salisburie and by the cincture of a sword invested him in the said Earledome This William became Lord of the Isle of Mann and begat two sonnes William who succeeded in his Fathers honour and died without issue having unhappily slaine his onely sonne while he trained him at Tilting and Iohn a Knight who died before his brother leaving behind him a sonne named Iohn Earle of Salisburie whom hee had by Margaret daughter and heire of Thomas de Mont-Hermer who being of an unconstant and changeable nature and plotting the destruction of King Henrie the Fourth was in the yeare of our Lord 1400. killed at Chichester and attainted afterwards of high treason Howbeit his sonne Thomas was fully restored a man worthy to be ranged with the bravest Captaines and Commanders whether you respect paines taking in his affaires industrie in action or expedition in dispatch who lying at the siege before Orleance in France was with a bullet levelled out of a great piece of Ordnance wounded in the yeare 1428. and thereof died
for all England right happy For it brought forth to us Queene Elizabeth a most gracious and excellent Prince worthy of superlative praise for her most wise and politique government of the Common-wealth and for her heroicke vertues farre above that sexe But when the said Thomas Bullen overcome with the griefe and sorrow that hee tooke for the infortunate fall and death of his children he ended his daies without issue this title lay still untill that King Edward the Sixth conferred it upon William Powlet Lord Saint Iohn whom soone after hee made Marquesse of Winchester and Lord Treasurer of England in whose family it remaineth at this day This Countie containeth in it Parishes 304. HANTSHIRE NExt to Wilshire is that Country which sometimes the Saxons called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and is now commonly named Hantshire of which one part that beareth farther within the land belonged no doubt to the Belgae the other which lieth upon the sea appertained without question to the Regni an ancient people of Britaine On the West it hath Dorsetshire and Wilshire on the South the Ocean to bound it on the East it joyneth to Sussex and Surrie and on the North it bordereth upon Barkshire A small province it is fruitfull in corne furnished in some places with pleasant woods standing thicke and well growne rich in plenteous pasture and for all commodities of sea most wealthy and happie It is thought that it was with the first brought under subjection to the Romans For our Histories report that Vespasian subdued it and very probable reasons there are inducing us to beleeve the same For Dio witnesseth that Plautius and Vespasian when they were sent by the Emperour Claudius against the Britaines did give the attempt upon this Island with an armie divided into three parts least if they should have ventured to land in one place onely they might have beene driven backe from the shore Suetonius also writeth that in this expedition Vespasian fought thirtie battailes with the enemie and subdued the Isle of Wight which lieth against this country and two other right puissant nations with it For which his victories as also for passing over the Ocean so safely Valerius Flaccus speaketh unto Vespasian himselfe as one more fortunate than Iulius Caesar in this manner Tuque O Pelagi cui major aperti Fama Caledonius post quam tua Carbasa vexit Oceanus Fhrigios prius indignatus Iülos And thou for Seas discoverie whose fame did more appeare Since that thy ships with sailes full spred in Northren Ocean were Which skorn'd before of Phrygian line the Julii to beare And of the very same Vespasian Appolonius Collatius Novariensis the Poet versified thus Ille quidem nuper faelici Marte Britannos Fuderat He verily of late by happy flight Had won the field and Britains put to flight But how in this war Titus delivered Vespasian his father when he was very streightly besieged by the Britans and how at the same time likewise an adder grasped him about and yet never hurt him which he tooke as a lucky foretoken of his Empire you may learne out of Dio and Forcatulus I for my part to come to my purpose beginning at the West side of this province will make my perambulation along the sea-coast and the rivers that runne into the Ocean and after that survey the more in-land parts thereof HAMSHIRE OLIM PARS BELGARVM A long the East banke of this river in this Shire King William of Normandie pulled downe all the townes villages houses and Churches farre and neere cast out the poore Inhabitants and when he had so done brought all within thirty miles compasse or there about into a forrest and harbour for wild beasts which the Englishmen in those daies termed Ytene and we now call New forrest Of which Act of his Gwalter Maps who lived immediately after wrote thus The Conquerour tooke away land both from God and men to dedicate the same unto wild beasts and Dogs-game in which space he threw downe sixe and thirtie-Mother-Churches and drave all the people thereto belonging quite away And this did he either that the Normans might have safer and more secure arrivall in England for it lieth over against Normandie in case after that all his wars were thought ended any new dangerous tempest should arise in this Island against him or for the pleasure which he tooke in hunting or else to scrape and rape money to himselfe by what meanes soever he could For being better affected and more favourable to beasts than to men he imposed verie heavie fines and penalties yea and other more grievous punishments upon those that should meddle with his game But Gods just judgement not long after followed this so unreasonable and cruell act of the King For Richard his second sonne and William Rufus King of England another sonne of his perished both in this Forrest William by chance shot through with an arrow by Walter Tirell the other blasted with a pestilent aire Henrie likewise his Grand-child by Robert his eldest sonne whiles hee hotely pursued his game in this Chase was hanged amongst the boughes and so died that wee may learne thereby How even childrens children beare the punishment of their Fathers sonnes There goe commonly abroad certaine verses that Iohn White Bishop of Winchester made of this Forrest Which although they falsly make William Rufus to have ordained the same yet because they are well liked of many I am likewise well content heere to set them downe Templa adimit Divis fora civibus arva colonis Rufus instituit Beaulensi in rure forestam Rex cervum insequitur Regem vindicta Tirellus Non bene provisum transfixit acumine ferri From God and Saint King Rus did Churches take From Citizens town-court and mercate place From Farmer lands New forrest for to make In Beaulew tract where whiles the King in chase Pursues the Hart just vengeance comes apace And King pursues Tirrell him seeing not Unawares him slew with dint of arrow shot He calleth it Beauley tract for that King Iohn built hard by a pretty Monasterie for the pleasant scituation called Beaulieu which continued ever unto our Fathers memorie of great fame as being an unviolated sanctuarie and a safe refuge for all that fled to it in so much that in times past our people heere thought it unlawfull and an hainous offence by force to take from thence any persons whatsoever were they thought never so wicked murtherers or traitours so that our Ancestors when they erected such Sanctuaries or Temples as they terme them of Mercie every where throughout England seemed rather to have proposed unto themselves Romulus to imitate than Moses who commanded that wilfull murtherers should bee plucked from the Altar and put to death and for them onely appointed Sanctuarie who by meere chance had killed any man But least the sea coast for so long a tract as that forrest is heere should lie without defence all open
answered for him at his Baptisme Then Ceadwalla King of the West-Saxons when the said Edelwalch was slaine and Aruandus the petty King of the Island made away annexed to it the Dominion and in a tragicall and lamentable massacre killed every mothers child almost of the inborne Inhabitants and the fourth part of the Isle to wit as much land as contained 300. Hides hee gave unto Bishop Wilfrid The first that instructed the Islanders in the knowledge of Christian religion But these matters Beda will informe you best writing as he doth in these words After then that Ceadwalla had obtained the kingdome of the Gevissi hee wonne also the Isle of Wight which unto that time had beene wholly given to Idolatrie and then endeavoured what he could to make a generall massacre and tragicall slaughter of all the native Inhabitants thereof and instead of them to plant there people of his owne province binding himselfe with a vow although he was not yet regenerate and become Christened and in case he wonne the Isle he would give unto God a fourth part both of it and also of the whole booty Which vow he so paied as that he offered this Isle unto Wilfrid the Bishop who being of his nation hapened then to come thither be present to the use and glory of God The measure of the same Island according to the English mens estimation is proportionable to one thousand and two hundred hides of land Whereupon the Bishop had possession given him of so much Land as rose to three hundred Hides But hee commended that portion which hee received unto one of his Clarkes named Bernwin and his sisters sonne he was giving unto him a priest named Hildila for to minister unto all that were desirous of salvation the word and laver of life Where I thinke it not good to passe over in silence how for the first fruits as one would say of those who of the same Isle were saved by their beleife two young children brethren of the Royall bloud to wit the sonnes of Arvandus King of the Isle were by the especiall favour of GOD crowned with martyrdome For when the enemies approached hard unto the Island these children slipt secretly out of the Isle and were remoâ—ved into the province next adjoyning where being brought to a place called Ad Lapidem when they had committed themselves upon trust to be hidden from the face of the King that was conquerour betraied they were and commanded to be killed Which when a certaine Abbat and Priest named Cynbreth heard who not farre from thence had his monasterie in a place named Reodford that is the Ford of reed hee came unto the King who then in those parts lay secretly at cure of those wounds which hee had received whiles hee fought in the Isle of Wight and requested of him that if there were no remedie but that the children must bee murthered they might yet bee first taught the Sacraments of Christian faith before their death The King granted his petition and hee then having catechised them in the word of truth and bathed them in the fount of salvation assured them of their entrance into the everlasting Kingdome of heaven And so within a while after when the executioner called instantly for them they joyfully suffered that temporall death of the body by which they made no doubt of their passe unto the eternall life of their soules In this order and manner therefore after all the Provinces of Britaine had embraced the faith of Christ the Isle of Wight also received the same in which notwithstanding for the calamitie and trouble of forraine subjection no man tooke the degree of Ministerie and See Episcopall before Daniell who at this day is the Bishop of the West Saxons and the Gevissj Thus much Beda From this time forward our writers for a great while have not one word of Wight unto the yeare of our Lord one thousand sixtie six in which Tostie Hing Haralds brother with certaine men of warre and Rovers ships out of Flanders in hatred of his brother invaded it and after he had compelled the Islanders to pay him tribute departed Some few yeares after as we read in the old booke of Cares broke Priorie which Master Robert Glover Somerset shewed me who carried as it were the Sunne light of ancient Genealogies and Pedigrees in his hand Like as saith this booke William the Bastard conquered England even so William Fitz Osbern his Mareschal and Earle of Hereford conquered the Isle of Wight and was the first Lord of Wight Long after this the Frenchmen in the yeare 1377. came suddenly at unawares under saile invaded and spoiled it and the same French in the yeare 1403. gave the like attempt but in vaine For valiantly they were drived from landing even as in our fathers daies when the French Gallies set one or two small cottages on fire and went their way As touching the Lords of this Isle after that William Fitz-Osbern was forth-with slaine in the warre of Flanders and his sonne Roger outlawed and driven unto exile it fell into the Kings hands and Henrie the First King of England gave it unto Richard Ridvers otherwise called Redvers and de Ripariis Earle of Denshire and withall the Fee or Inheritance of the Towne Christ-Church Where like as at Caresbroke that Richard built certaine Fortresses but Baldwin his sonne in the troublesome time of King Stephen when there were in England so many Tyrants as there were Lords of Forts and Castles who tooke upon them every one to stampe money and challenged other rights of Regall Majestie was by Stephen disseized and expelled from hence Howbeit his posteritie recovered their ancient right whose Genealogie wee have already put downe when wee treated of the Earles of Denshire But in the end Isabell widow to William de Fortibus Earle of Albemarle and Holdernesse sister and heire of Baldwin the last Earle of Devonshire of that house after much intreatie was overcome to make over by charter all her right and interest and to settle it upon King Edward the First with the Manours of Christ-Church and Fawkeshaul c. For foure thousand Markes Ever since which time the Kings of England held the Isle and Henry de Beauchamp Earle of Warwicke was by King Henrie the Sixth unto whom hee was most deere crowned King of Wight and afterwards nominated The first or principall Earle of all England But together with him this new and unusuall title died and vanished quite Afterwards Richard Widevile Earle Rivers was by King Edward the fourth stiled Lord of the Isle of Wight Sir Reginald Bray took it of King Henry the Seventh with whom he was most inward in Fee farme for a rent charg'd of three hundred markes yearely to be paid Also beside these Lords this Isle had a noble Familie named de Insula or Lisle out of which in the raigne of King Edward the Second one was summoned unto the Parliament by the
puissance about the river Garumna and laying siege to Tolose with fortunate successe terrified not onely those of Province as farre as to Rhosne and the Alpes but also by raising fortresses subduing nations he made the princes of Spaine and France to quake for feare as if he had beene ever more at the point to set upon them all I will also if it please you adjoyne heereto a word or two concerning the same King out of Giraldus Combrensis From the Pyrenean mountaines saith hee unto the Westerne bounds and furthest limits of the North Ocean This our Alexander of the West hath stretched forth his arme As farre therefore as nature in these our parts hath enlarged the land so farre hath hee marched with Victories If the bounds of his expeditions were sought for sooner would the globe of earth faile than they end For where there is a valiant and courageous minde howsoever earth and land faile victories cannot faile well may there bee wanting matter of triumph but triumphs will never bee wanting How great an addition to his glorious titles and triumphs was Ireland with how great valour and praise-worthy prowesse pearced he through the very secrets and hidden places of the Ocean But lo heere an old verse of his death which briefely in one word containeth fully both all this and also the renowne of his sonne King Richard the first Mira cano Sol occubuit nox nulla sequuta est A wonder great the Sunne was set and night there followed none For so farre was King Richard his sonne from bringing darknesse with him that with the beames of his victories atchieved in Cypres and Syria he made our countrey of England most famous and renowned through the world But these are things without our Element Let us returne againe from persons to places This Monastery wherein that noble King Henrie the first was buried is now converted to bee the Kings house which hath adjoyning unto it a very goodly stable stored to the full with princelike and most generous steeds But as touching this place listen also to the Poet describing the Tamis as he passeth heereby Hinc videt exiguam Chawsey properatque videre Redingum nitidum texendis nobile pannis Hoc docet Aelfredi nostri victricia signa Begscegi caedem calcata cadavera Dani Vtque superfuso maduerunt sanguine campi Principis hîc Zephiro Cauroque parentibus ort Cornipides crebris implent binnitibus auras Et gyros ducunt gressus glomerantque superbos Dum cupiunt nostri Martis servire lupatis Haeccine sed pietas heu dira piacula primum Neustrius Henricus situs hîc inglorius urna Nunc jacet erectus tumulum novus advena quaerit Frustra nam regi tenues invidit arenas Auri sacra fames Regum metuenda sepulchris From hence he little Chawsey seeth and hastneth for to see Faire Reading towne a place of name where Cloth's ywoven be This shewes our Aelfrids victorie what time Begsceg was slaine With other Danes whose carcasses lay trampled on the plaine And how the fields ydrenched were with bloud upon them shed Where as the Prince in Stable now hath standing many a steed Of noblest kind that neigh and snort into the aire a lowd Tracing the ring and keeping pace that stately is and prowd Whiles they desire to learne with all in our warres for to serve But where alas is piety Such cursed deeds deserve Purged to be by sacrifice A King of Normans race Henry the first enterred heere now turn'd out of his place An out cast lies dishonoured Who seekes his tombe shall misse For Covetise envied that King the small mould which was his See see how Princes monuments it ransacks where it is Scarce halfe a mile from Reading betwixt most greene and flowring medowes the Kenet is coupled with the Tamis who now runneth with a broader streame by a small village called Sunning which a man would mervaile to have beene the See of eight Bishops who had this shire Wiltshire for their Diocesse yet our Histories report as much the same afterwards by Herman was translated to Shirburne and in the end to Salisburie unto which Bishopricke this place still belongeth Heereby falleth Ladden a small water into the Tamis and not farre off standeth Laurents Waltham where are to be seene the foote foundations of an old fort and divers Romane coines often times digged up and next to it Billingsbere the inhabitation of Sir Henry Nevill issued from the Lords Abergevenny From Sunning the Tamis passeth by Bistleham now called short Bisham at first a Lordship of the Knights Templars then of the Montacutes and amongst them William the first Earle of Salisburie of his familie founded a Priory wherein some say hee was buried Certes his wife the daughter of the Lord Grandison was buried there and in the Inscription of her tombe it was specified that her father was descended out of Burgundie cosin-german to the Emperour of Constantinople the King of Hungary and Duke of Baveire and brought into England by Edmund Earle of Lancaster Now is the possession of Sir Edward Hoby Knight of me especially to be observed whose singular kindnesse toward me the often consideration thereof shall keepe so fresh that it shall never vanish out of my remembrance Tamis having now left Bisham behind it fetcheth it selfe with a compasse about to a little towne named in the former ages Southe-alington afterward Maiden-hith and at this day Maindenhead of the superstitious worshipping of I wote not what British Maidens head one of those eleven thousand Virgins who as they returned from Rome into their country with Vrsula their leader suffered as Martyrs at Colein in Germanie under that scourge of God Attila Neither is this towne of any antiquity for no longer agoe then in our great Grandfathers daies there was a Ferry in a place somewhat higher at Babhams end But after they had built heere a bridge of timber piles it beganne to flourish with Innes and goe beyond her mother Bray hard by which notwithstanding is farre more ancient as having given name to the whole Hundred This parcell of the shire I have beene of opinion that the BIBROCI who yeelded themselves under Cesars protection inhabited in times past And why should I thinke otherwise The reliques of them remaine yet most evidently in the name For BIBRACTE in France is now also drawen shorter into Bray and not far from hence Caesar passed over the Tamis with his armie as I will shew in due place what time as the people of that small Canton put themselves to the devotion of Caesar. Certes If a man should hunt for these Bibroci elsewhere he should I beleeve hardly find them Within this Hundred of the Bibroci Windesore beareth a goodly shew in the Saxon tongue haply of the winding shore called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 for so it is named downe in the Charter of King Edward the Confessour who in this
gartrisht faire with cockles sets no store Nor Rhodes with Alcal and Elba regard the robes with Crosse Sightly beset so that they count their Orders all but drosse Compar'd with Knighthood this of thine which onely beares the name Cease now to joy cease now at length to wonder at the same All yeeld to one what ev'r thou hast in one is drowned all For greater glorie grow's to thee and honour more doth fall In that there dwels upon my banke and seated is in thee Elizabeth and therewith Tamis seeming to bow his knee And gently crouch obeisance made and then he thus went on Elizabeth of Englishmen sole Goddesse Saint alone Whose praise-worth vertues if in verse I now should take in hand For to comprize on Meliboc an hill that high doth stand I might as easily set the Alps or number all my sand If some I would in silence passe what ever I suppresse Will greater proove than all the rest If I my selfe addresse Her formost acts and travailes old to count I then shall find That those of present times to them will draw away my mind Say that of justice I relate more shin's her mercies lore Speake I of her victorious armes unarm'd she gained more That piety now flourisheth that England feares no warre That none rules law but unto law all men obedient are That neighbour Scots be not enthral'd to Frenchmen rigorous That Irish wild doe now cast of their fashions barbarous That shag-hai'rd Ulster Kern doth learne civility anew The praise and thanks is hers alone What is not to her due Those Goddesses that vices chase and are beseeming best A Prince so rare are seated all and shrined in her brest Religion First puts her in mind to worship God aright And Iustice teacheth to preferre before all gaine the right Prudence adviseth naught to doe rashly without fore-cast Then Temperance perswades to love all things both pure and chast And Constancie her resolute mind doth settle firme and fast Hence justly she ALVVAYS THE SAME claimes and keepes to the last Who can discribe in in waving verse such noble vertues all Praise-worthy parts she hath alone what all ye reckon shall Then happinesse long life and health praise love may her betide So long as waves of mine shall last or streame and bankes abide So long may shee most blessed Prince all Englands scepter sway Let both my course and her life end in one and selfe-same day The rest of Barkshire which lieth Southward from Windsor is shadowed with woods and thickets commonly called the Forrest of Windlesor in which the townes and villages stand but thinne whereof Ockingham is of greatest name by reason of the bignesse thereof and trade of clothing but very full it is of game in everie place Now for as much as we have oftentimes made mention and shall still of the Forrests what a Forrest is and the reason of that name if you desire to know but see you laugh not thereat take it heere out of the blacke booke of the Exchequer A Forrest is a safe harbor and abiding place of deere or beasts not of any whatsoever but of wilde and such as delight in woods not in every place but in some certaine and meet for that purpose and hereupon a forrest hath the name as one would say Feresta that is a station of wild beasts And incredible it is how much ground the kings of England have â—uffered every where to lie untilled and set a part for to empale enclose such deere or as they use to say have afforested Neither can I think that any thing else was the cause thereof but onely the overmuch delight in hunting or to maintaine the Kings houshold although some attribute it to the infrequencie of the people to inhabit the countrey seeing that since the Danes were heere they for a long time afforested more and more and for the maintenance and keeping of such places ordained most straight lawes and an overseer whom they cal Protoforestarius that is Chiefe forrester or Master of the Forrests who should heare causes belonging unto Forrests and punish either by death or losse of limb whosoever killed Deere within any parke or chase But Iohn of Sarisburie shal in his own words tell you these things briefely out of his Polycraticon that which you may marvell more at to lay grins for birds to set snares to allure them with nooze or pipe or by any waies laying whatsoever to entrap or take them is oftentimes by vertue of an Edict made a crime and either amerced with forfeiture of goods or punished with losse of limbe and life You have heard that the fowles of the aire and fishes of the sea are common But these ywis belong unto the King which the Forrest Law taketh hold of and claimeth wheresoever they flie With-hold thy hand forbeare and abstaine lest thou also bee punished for treason fall into the hunters hand as a prey Husbandmen are debarred their fallow fields whiles Deere have libertie to stray abroad and that their pasture may bee augmented the poore farmer is abridged and cut short of his grounds What is sowne planted or graffed they keepe from the husbandmen that bee tenants both pasturage from heardmen drovers and graziers and Bee-hives they exclude from floury plots yea the very Bees themselves are scarcely permitted to use their naturall libertie Which courses seeming too inhumane were the occasion otherwhiles of great troubles and uproares so long untill in the end by the rising and revolt of the Barons there was wrested from King Henry the third the Charter de Foresta wherin those rigorous laws being made void he granted others more indifferent whereunto they are bound even at this day who dwell within compasse of the Forrests And from that time two Justices were appointed for these causes whereof the one overseeth all Forrests on this side the river Trent the other all the rest beyond Trent as farre as Scotland with great authoritie Throughout all this Province or county as wee find in the Survey booke of England The Taine or Kings Knight holding of him as Lord whensoever he died left unto the King for a reliefe all his armour one horse with a saddle and another without a saddle And if he had either hounds or hawkes they were tendred and presented unto the King that hee might take them if he would When Gelt was given in the time of King Edward the Confessour generally throughout all Barkshire an Hide of Land yeilded three-pence halfe-penny before Christmas and as much at Whitsontide Thus much of Barkshire which as yet hath given the title of Earle to no man Within the compasse of this shire are parishes 140. THese Regions which hitherto we have travailed thorow that is to say of the Danmonij Durotriges Belgae and Attrebatij what time as the Saxons bare Soveraigne rule in Britaine fell to the Kingdome of the West-Saxons which they in their language
menaces and censures were sent out from the Bishop of Rome against these Archbishops For these Monkes were in bodily feare least this would bee their utter undoing and a prejudice unto them in the Elections of the Archbishops Neither were these blustering stormes allaied untill the said Church newly begunne was laid levell with the ground Adjoyning hard to this is the most famous mercate towne and place of trade in all this shire which at this day they call The Burrough of Southwarke in Saxon speech 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which is the Southworke or building because it standeth South over against London the Suburbs whereof it may seeme in some sort to bee but so large it is and populous that it gives place to few Cities of England having beene as it were a corporation by it selfe it had in our fathers daies Bayliffes but in the reigne of King Edward the Sixth it was annexed to the Citie of London and is at this day taken for a member as it were of it and therefore when wee are come to London wee will speake more at large thereof Beneath this Burrough the Tamis forsaketh Surry the East bound whereof passeth in a manner directly downe from hence Southward neere unto Lagham which had their Parliamentarie Barons called Saint Iohn de Lagham in the reigne of Edward the First whose Inheritance came at length by an heire generall to Iohn Leddiard and some-what lower in the very angle well neere where it bendeth to Southsex and Kent stands Streborow Castle the seate in ancient time of Lord Cobham who of it were called of Sterborow where the issue proceeding from the bodies of Iohn Cobham Lord of Cobham and Cowling and the daughter of Hugh Nevil flourished a long time in glory and dignitie For Reginald Cobham in King Edward the thirds daies being created Knight of the Garter was Admirall of the sea-coasts from Tamis mouth West-ward But Thomas the last male of that line wedded the Lady Anne daughter to Humfrey the Duke of Buckingham of whom he begat one onely daughter named Anne married unto Edward Burgh who derived his pedigree from the Percies and Earles of Athole whose sonne Thomas made by King Henry the Eighth Baron Burgh left a sonne behind him named William And his sonne Thomas a great favourer of learning and Lord Governour of Briell Queeene Elizabeth made Knight of the Garter and Lord Deputy of Ireland where hee honourably ended his life pursuing the rebels As touching Dame Eleanor Cobham descended out of this family the wife of Humfrey Duke of Glocester whose reputation had a flawe I referre you to the English Historie if you please Now are wee to reckon up the Earles of this shire William Rufus King of England made William de Warrena who had married his sister the first Earle of Surrey For in that Charter of his by which hee founded the Priory of Lewis thus wee read Donavi c. that is I have given and granted c. For the life and health of my Lord King William who brought mee into England and for the health of my Lady Queene Mawd my wives mother and for the life and health of my Lord King William her sonne after whose comming into England I made this charter who also created me Earle of Surry c. whose sonne William succeeded and married the daughter of Hugh Earle of Vermandois whereupon his posteritie as some suppose used the Armes of Vermandois vz. Chequy Or and Azure His sonne VVilliam dying in the Holy-land about the yeare 1148. had issue a daughter onely who adorned first William King Stephens sonne and afterward Hamelin the base sonne of Gefferey Plantagenet Earle of Anjou both her husbands with the same title But whereas her former husband died without issue William her sonne by Hamelin was Earle of Surry whose posterie assuming unto them the name of Warrens bare the same title This William espoused the eldest daughter and a coheire of William Marescall Earle of Pembroch the widow of Hugh Bigod who bare unto him Iohn who slew Alan de la Zouch in presence of the Judges of the Realme This Iohn of Alice the daughter of Hugh le Brune halfe sister by the mothers side of King Henry the third begat William who died before his father and hee of Ioan Vere the Earle of Oxfords daughter begat Iohn Posthumus borne after his decease and the last Earle of this house who was stiled as I have seene in the circumscription of his seale Earle of Warren of Surry and of Strathern in Scotland Lord of Bromfield and of Yale and Count-palatine But hee dying without lawfull issue in the twelfth yeare of Edward the thirds raigne Alice his sister and heire wedded unto Edmund Earle of Arundell by her marriage brought this honour of Surrey into the house of Arundells For Richard their sonne who married in the house of Lancaster after his father was wickedly beheaded for siding with his Soveraigne King Edward the Second by the malignant envie of the Queene was both Earle of Arundell and Surrey and left both Earledomes to Richard his sonne who contrary-wise lost his head for siding against his soveraigne King Richard the Second But Thomas his sonne to repaire his fathers dishonour lost his life for his Prince and country in France leaving his sisters his heires for the lands not entailed who were married to Thomas Mowbraie Duke of Norfolke c. to Sir Powland Lenthall and Sir William Beauchampe Lord of Abergeveny After by the Mowbraies the title of Surrey came at length to the Howards Howbeit in the meane while after the execution of Richard Earle of Arundell King Richard the Second bestowed the title of Duke of Surry upon Thomas Holland Earle of Kent which honour he enjoyed not long For while hee combined with others by privie conspiracies to restore the same King Richard to his libertie and kingdome the conspiracie was not carried so secretly but contrary to his expectation brake forth and came to light then fled hee and by the people of Cirencester was intercepted and cut shorter by the head After him Thomas Beaufort Chancellour to the King if we give credit to Thomas Walsingham bare this dignity For in the yeare of our Lord as hee saith 1410. The Lord Thomas Beaufort Earle of Surrey left this world Now let Walsingham in this point make good that which he writeth for in the Kings Records there is no such thing found but onely this that Thomas Beaufort about that time was made Lord Chancellour But certaine it is and that out of the Records of the Kingdome that King Henry the Sixth in the nine and twentie yeare of his raigne created Iohn Mowbray the sonne of Iohn Duke of Norfolke Earle Warren and of Surry And Richard second sonne of King Edward the Fourth having married the heire of Mowbray received all the titles due to the Mowbraies by creation from his father Afterward King Richard the Third having dispatched the
said Richard and by impious cruell meanes usurped the kingdome that hee might by his benefits oblige unto him the house of the Howards created in one and the same day Iohn Lord Howard Duke of Norfolke as next cosin and heire to the Mowbraies and his sonne Thomas Earle of Surrie in whose of-spring this honour hath ever since beene resplendent and so continueth at this day This County hath in it Parish Churches 140. SVSSEX VNder Suth-rey toward the South lieth stretched out in a great length Suth-sex which also in times past the Regni inhabited in the Saxon tongue called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 at this day Sussex which is as much to say as the Region of the South Saxons a word compounded of the site thereof Southward and of the Saxons who in their Heptarchie placed here the second kingdome It lieth upon the British Ocean all Southward with a streight shore as it were farre more in length than bredth Howbeit it hath few harbours by reason that the sea is dangerous for shelves and therefore rough and troublous the shore also it selfe full of rocks and the South-west wind doth tyrannize thereon casting up beach infinitely The sea coast of this countrie hath greene hils on it mounting to a greater height called the Downes which because they stand upon a fat chalke or kinde of marle yeeldeth corne aboundantly The middle tract garnished with medowes pastures corne-fields and groves maketh a very lovely shew The hithermore and Northern side thereof is shaded most pleasantly with woods like as in times past the whole country throughout which by reason of the woods was hardly passable For the wood Andradswald in the British language Coid Andred taking the name of Anderida the City next adjoyning tooke up in this quarter a hundred and twentie miles in length and thirtie in bredth memorable for the death of Sigebert King of West Saxons who being deposed from his royall throne was in this place stabbed by a Swineheard and so died Many pretty rivers it hath but such as springing out of the North-side of the shire forthwith take their course to the Ocean and therefore not able to beare any vessell of burden Full of iron mines it is in sundry places where for the making and fining whereof there bee furnaces on every side and a huge deale of wood is yearely spent to which purpose divers brookes in many places are brought to runne in one channell and sundry medowes turned into pooles and waters that they might bee of power sufficient to drive hammer milles which beating upon the iron resound all over the places adjoyning And yet the iron here wrought is not in every place of like goodnesse but generally more brittle than is the Spanish iron whether it be by the nature or tincture and temper thereof Howbeit commodious enough to the iron Maisters who cast much great ordnance thereof and other things to their no small gaine Now whether it bee as gainefull and profitable to the common-wealth may bee doubted but the age ensuing will bee better able to tell you Neither want here glasse-houses but the Glasse there made by reason of the matter or making I wot not whether is likewise nothing so pure and cleare and therefore used of the common sort onely SVSSEXIA Siue Southsex olim pars REGNORVM Selsey before said is somewhat lower in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is to say The Isle of Sea calves for these in our language wee call Scales which alwaies seeke to Islands and to the shore for to bring forth their young but now it is most famous for good cockles and full Lobsters A place as Beda saith compassed round about with the Sea but onely in the West side where it hath an entrie into it by land as broad as a slings cast It was reckoned by Survey taken to containe fourscore and seven Hides of Land when Edilwalch King of this Province gave it to Wilfride Bishop of Yorke whiles hee was in exile who first preached Christ unto this people and as he writeth not only by baptisme saved from thraldome under the divell two hundred and fiftie bond-men but also by giving freedome delivered them from the yoke of bondage under man Afterwards K. Cedwalla who vanquished Edilwalch founded here a Minster and beautified it with an Episcopall See which by Stigand the two and twentieth Bishop was translated to Chichester where it now flourisheth and doth acknowledge Cedwalla to bee the founder In this Isle remaineth onely the dead carkasse as it were of that ancient little citie wherein those Bishops sat and the same hidden quite with water at everie full sea but at a low water evident and plaine to be seene Then maketh the shore way for a river which out of Saint Leonards Forrest runneth downe first by Amberley where William Read Bishop of Chichester in the raigne of Edward the third built a castle for his successours and so from thence by Arundell seated on the hanging of an hill a place greater in name than deede and yet is not that name of great antiquitie for before Aelfreds dayes who bequeathed it by testament to Anthelme his brothers sonne I have not read it so much as once named Unlesse perhaps I should thinke that Portus Adurni is corruptly so called by transposition of letters for Portus Arundi The reason of this name is fetched neither from that fabulous horse of Sir Beavois of Southampton nor of Charudum a promontorie in Denmarke as Goropius Becanus hath dreamed but of the valley or dale which lieth upon the river Arun in case Arun bee the name of the river as some have delivered who thereupon named it in Latine Aruntina vallis that is Arundale But all the fame it hath is of the Castle that flourished under the Saxon Empire and which as we read presently upon the comming in of the Normans Roger Montgomerie repaired who thereupon was 〈◊〉 Earle of Arundell For a stately place it is both by naturall situation and also by mans hand verie strong But his sonne Robert de Belismo who succeeded his brother Hugh being by King Henrie the First proscribed lost that and all his other dignitie For when he had perfidiously raised warre against the King he chose this Castle for his surest hold whiles the warre lasted and fortified the place with many munitions but spedde no better than traitours use to doe For the Kings forces environing it everie way at the last wonne it Whenas Robert now had forfeited his estate and was banished the King gave this castle and all his Lands besides unto * Adeliza daughter to Godfrey Barbatus of Lovaine Duke of Loraine and Brabant for her Dowrie whom he tooke to be his second wife In whose commendation a certaine English man in that unlearned age wrote these not unlearned verses Anglorum Reginatuos Adeliza decores Ipsa referre parans Musa stupore riget Quid Diadema tibi
pulcherrima quid tibi gemma Pallet gemma tibi nec diadema nitet Deme tibi cultus cultum natura ministrat Non exornari forma beata potest Ornamenta cave nec quicquam luminis inde Accipis illa micant lumine clara tuo Non puduit modicas de magnis dicere laudes Nec pudeat Dominam te precor esse meam When Muses mine thy beauties rare faire Adeliza Queene Of England readie are to tell they starke astonied beene What booteth thee so beautifull gold-crowne or pretious stone Dimne is the Diademe to thee the gemne hath beautie none Away with trimme and gay attire nature attireth thee Thy lovely beautie naturall can never bett'red be All Ornaments beware from them no favour thou do'st take But they from thee their lustre have thou doest them lightsome make I shamed not on matters great to set small praises heere Bash not but deigne I pray to be my Soveraigne Ladie deere She after the Kings death matched in marriage with William de Albeney who taking part with Maud the Empresse against King Stephen and defending this Castle against him was in recompence of his good service by the saide Maude the Empresse and Ladie of Englishmen for this title she used created Earle of Arundell and her sonne King Henrie the Second gave the whole Rape of Arundell to that William To hold of him by the service of fourescore and foure Knights fees and one-halfe And to his sonne William King Richard the first granted in such words as these The Castle of Arundell with the whole Honor of Arundell and the Third penny of the Plees out of Sussex whereof he is Earle And when after the fifth Earle of this surname the issue male failed one of the sisters and heires of Hugh the fifth Earle was married to Sir Iohn Fitz-Alan Lord of Clun whose great grand sonne Richard For that he stood seised of the Castle Honour and Lordship of Arundell in his owne demesne as of Fee in regard of this his possession of the same Castle Honour and Seignorie without any other consideration or Creation to be an Earle was Earle of Arundell and the name state and honor of the Earle of Arundell c. Peaceably he enjoied as appeareth by a definitive judgement given in Parliament in the behalfe of Sir Iohn Fitz-Alan chalenging the Castle and tittle of Arundell by force of an entaile against Iohn Mowbray Duke of Norfolke the right Heire in the neerest degree Whereby it was gathered that the name state and dignitie of Earle was annexed to the Castle Honour and Seignorie of Arundell as it is to be seene in the Parliament Rolls of King Henry the Sixth out of which I have copied forth these notes word for word Of these Fitz-Alans Edmund second Earle sonne to Richard married the heire of the Earle of Surry and was beheaded through the malicious furie of Queene Isabell not lawfully convicted for that hee opposed himselfe in King Edward the Seconds behalfe against her wicked practises His sonne Richard petitioned in Parliament to be restored to bloud lands and goods for that his father was put to death not tried by his Peeres according to the law and great Charter of England neverthelesse whereas the attaindor of him was confirmed by Parliament hee was forced to amend his petition and upon the amendment thereof hee was restored by the Kings meere grace Richard his sonne as his grandfather died for his Soveraigne lost his life for banding against his Soveraigne King Richard the Second But Tho. his sonne more honourably ended his life serving King Henrie the Fifth valerously in France and leaving his sisters his heires generall Sir Iohn of Arundell Lord Maltravers his next cosin and heire male obtained of King Henrie the sixt the Earldome of Arundell as we even now declared and also was by the said King for his good service created Duke of Touraine Of the succeeding Earles I find nothing memorable Henrie Fitz Alan the eleventh and last Earle of that surname lived in our daies in great honor as you shall see After whom leaving no issue male Philip Howard his daughters sonne succeeded who not able to digest wrongs and hard measure offered unto him by the cunning sleights of some envious persons fell into the toile and net pitched for him and being brought into extreame perill of his life yeelded up his vitall breath in the Tower But his sonne Thomas a most honorable young man in whom a forward spirit and fervent love of vertue and glorie most beseeming his nobility and the same tempered with true courtesie shineth very apparently recovered his fathers dignities being restored by King Iames and Parliament authoritie Besides the Castle and the Earles Arundell hath nothing memorable For the Colledge built by the Earles which there flourished because the revenue or living is alienated and gone now falleth to decay Howbeit in the Church are some monuments of Earles there enterred but one above the rest right beautifull of Alabaster in which lieth in the mids of the Quire Earle Thomas and Beatrice his wife the daughter of Iohn King of Portugall Neither must I overpasse this Inscription so faire guilt set up heere in the Honor of Henrie Fitz-Alan the last Earle of this line because some there be whom liketh it well CONSECRATED TO VERTVE AND HONOVR THE MAGNANIMOVS AND VVORTHY KNIGHT VVHOSE PERSONAGE IS HERE SEENE AND VVHOSE BONES HERE VNDERNEATHLY ENTERRED VVAS BARLE OF THIS TERRITORIE ACCORDING TO HIS HOVSE AND LINAGE SVRNAMED FITZ ALAN LOKD MALTRAVERS CLVN AND OSVVALDESTRE PRINCIPAL HONOVRS STILED ALSO LORD AND BARON OF THAT MOST NOBLE ORDER OF THE GARTER THE AVNCIENTEST COMPANION VVHILES HE LIVED OF WILLIAM EARLE OF ARVNDELL THE ONELY SONNE AND SVCCESSOR COMPARTNER ALSO OF ALL HIS VERTVES VVHO BEING OF THE PRIVY COVNSEL TO KING HENRIE THE EIGHT KING EDVVARD THE SIXT MARIE AND ELIZABETH KINGS AND QVEENES OF ENGLAND VVAS GOVERNOR ALSO OF THE TOVVNE OF CALES AND VVHAT TIME AS THE SAID KING HENRIE BESIEGED BVLLEN VVAS HIGH MARESCHAL OF HIS ARMY AND AFTER THAT LORD CHAMBERLAIN TO THE KING ALSO VVHEN EDVVARD HIS SONNE VVAS CROVVNED KING HE BARE THE OFFICE OF L. MARESCHAL OF THE KINGDOME AND VNTO HIM LIKE AS BEFORE VNTO HIS FATHER BECAME LORD CHAMBERLAINE MOREOVER IN THE REIGNE OF QVEENE MARIE DVRING THE TIME OF HER SOLEMNE CORONATION HE VVAS MADE LORD HIGH CONSTABLE AFTERVVARD STEVVARD OF HER ROIAL HOVSE AND PRESIDENT OF THE COVNCEL EVEN AS TO QVEENE ELIZABETH ALSO HE VVAS LIKEVVISE LORD HIGH STEVVARD OF HER HOVSHOLD THVS THIS MAN NOBLE BY HIS HIGH PARENTAGE MORE NOBLE FOR VVEL PERFORMING THE PVBLICKE OFFICES OF STATE â—OST NOBLE AND RENOVNED BOTH AT HOME AND ABROAD FLOVRISHING STIL IN HONOVR BROKEN VVITH TRAVEL MVCH VVORNE VVITH YEERES AFTER HE VVAS COME TO THE LXVIII OF HIS AGE AT LONDON THE XXV DAY OF FEBRVARY IN THE YEERE OF OVâ— SALVATION BY CHRIST M. D. LXXIX GODLY AND SVVEETLY SLEPT IN THE LORD IOHN LVMLEY BARON OF LVMLEY HIS MOST
it selfe into a channell yet often times it overfloweth the low lands about it to no small detriment Not farre from the said mere Furle sheweth it selfe a principall mansion of the Gages who advanced their estate by the marriage of one of the heires of Saint Clare Princes favour and Court Offices The shore next openeth it selfe at Cuckmere which yet affordeth no commodious haven though it be fed with a fresh which insulateth Michelham where Gilbert de Aquila founded a Priory for black Chanons And then at East-bourn the shore ariseth into so high a Promontory called of the beach Beachy-points and Beau-cliffe for the faire shew being interchangeably compounded with rowe of chalke and flint that it is esteemed the highest cliffe of all the South coast of England As hitherto from Arundell and beyond the countrey along the coast for a great breadth mounteth up into high hilles called the Downes which for rich fertilitie giveth place to few valleys and plaines so now it falleth into such a low levell and marsh that the people think it hath been over-flowed by the sea They call it Pevensey Marsh of Pevensey the next towne adjoyning which lieth in the plaine somewhat within the land upon a small river which often times overlaieth the lands adjacent In the old English Saxon Language it was walled 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 in the Norman speech Pevensell now commonly Pemsey It hath had a meane haven and a faire large castle in the ruinous walles whereof remaine great bricks such as the Britans used which is some argument of the antiquitie thereof It belonged in the Conquerours time to Robert Earle of Moriton halfe brother by the mothers side to the Conquerour and then had fiftie and six Burgesses After the attainder of his Sonne William Earle of Moriton it came to King Henrie the First by Escheat In the composition betweene Stephen and King Henrie the second both towne and castle with whatsoever Richard de Aquila had of the Honor of Pevensey which after his name was called Honor de Aquila and Baronia de Aquila or of the Eagle was assigned to William Sonne to K. Stephen But he surrendred it with Norwich into King Henrie the Seconds hand in the yeere 1158 when he restored to him all such Lands as Stephen was seased of before hee usurped the crowne of England After some yeeres King Henrie the third over-favouring forrainers granted the Honor de Aquila which had fallen to the crowne by Escheat for that Gilbert de Aquila had passed into Normandie against the Kings good will to Peter Earle of Savoy the Queenes uncle But he fearing the envie of the English against forrainers relinquished it to the King and so at length it came to the Dutchy of Lancaster Inward from Pevensey is seated Herst in a Parke among the woods which name also it hath of the woody situation For the ancient English-men called a wood 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 This was immediately after the Normans entry into England the seat of certaine noble gentlemen who of that place were a good while named de Herst untill William the sonne of Walleran de Herst tooke unto him the name Monceaux of the place haply where he was borne an usuall thing in that age whereupon that name also was adnexed unto this place which ever since was of the Lord termed Herst Monceaux From whose Posteritie by heire generall it descended haereditarily to the Fienes These Fienes called likewise Fenis and Fienles derive their pedigree from Ingelram de Fienes who had wedded the heire of Pharumuse of Boloigne of the house of the Earles of Boloigne in France About the time of King Edward the Second Sir Iohn Fienes married the heire of Monceaux his sonne William married one of the heires of the Lord Say his sonne likewise the heire of Batisford whose sonne Sir Roger Fienes married the daughter of Holland and in the first yeare of King Henrie the Sixt built of bricke the large faire uniforme convenient house heere Castle-like within a deepe moate The said King Henrie the Sixt Accepted declared and reputed Sir Richard Fienis sonne of the said Sir Roger to be Baron of Dacre And the same tittle King Edward the fourth chosen Arbitratour and Umpire betweene him Sir Humfrey Dacre awarded confirmed to the said S. Richard Fienis and to the heires of his bodie lawfully begotten for that he had married Ioane the cousin and next heire of Thomas Baron Dacre and to have praecedence before the L. Dacre of Gilesland heire male of the family Since which time the heires lineally descending from him being enriched by one of the heires of the Lord Fitz-Hugh have enjoyed the honor of Baron Dacre untill that very lately George Fienis Lord Dacre sonne to the unfortunate Thomas Lord Dacre died without issue whose onely sister and heire Margaret Sampson Lennard Esquire a man both vertuous and courteous tooke to wife and by her hath faire issue In whose behalfe it was published declared and adjudged by the Lords Cōmissioners for Martiall causes in the second yeere of the raigne of King Iames with his privity and assent Royall That the said Margaret ought to beare have and enjoy the name state degree title stile honor place and precedency of the Baronie of Dacre to have and to hold to her and the issue of her bodie in as full and ample manner as any of her ancestors enjoied the same And that her children may and shall have take and enjoy the place and precedence respectively as the children of her ancestors Barons Dacre have formerly had and enjoyed Now to returne to the Sea-coast about three miles from Pevensey is Beckes-hill a place much frequented by Saint Richard Bishop of Chichester and where he died Vnder this is Bulver-hith in an open shore with a rooflesse Church not so named of a bulles hide which cut into thongs by William the Conquerour reached to Battaile as they fable for it had that name before his comming But heere he arrived with his whole fleete landed his armie and having cast a rampier before his campe set fire on all his ships that their onely hope might be in manhood and their safety in victorie And so after two daies marched to Hastings then to an hill neere Nenfeld now called Standard hill because as they say he there pitched his Standard and from thence two miles farther where in a plaine the Kingdome of England was put upon the hazard and chance of a battaile and the English-Saxon Empire came to a full period and finall end For there King Harold in the yeere of our Lord 1066. the day before the Ides of October albeit his forces were much weakened in a former fight with the Danes and his soldiers wearied besides with a long journey from beyond Yorke encountred him in a place named Epiton When the Normans had sounded the Battaile first the skirmish continued for a pretty while with shot of arrowes
long inhabited with a warlike people and skilfull sailers well stored with barkes and craies and gained much by fishing which is plentifull along the shore But after that the peere made of timber was at length violently carried away by extreame rage of the sea it hath decaied and the fishing lesse used by the reason of the dangerous landing for they are enforced to worke their vessels to land by a Capstall or Craine In which respect for the bettering of the towne Queene Elizabeth granted a contribution toward the making of a new harbour which was begun but the contribution was quickly converted into private purses and the publike good neglected Neverthelesse both Court the Countrey and Citie of London is served with much fish from thence The whole Rape of Hastings and the Honour was holden by the Earles of Ew commonly called de Augi in Normandie descended from the base sonne of Richard the First Duke of Normandie untill the daies of Alice the heire of the house whom in the reigne of Henrie the Third Ralph de Issodun in France tooke to wife whose posteritie lost a faire patrimonie in England for that as our Lawyers spake in those daies they were Ad fidem Regis Franciae that is under the king of France his allegiance When King Henry the third had seazed their lands into his hands hee granted the Rape of Hastings first to Peter Earle of Savoy then to Prince Edward his sonne and after upon his surrender to Iohn sonne to the Duke of little Britaine upon certaine exchanges of lands pertaining to the Honour of Richmond which Peter Earle of Savoy had made over for the use of the Prince Long time after when the Duke of Britaine had lost their lands in England for adhering to the French King King Henrie the Fourth gave the Rape of Hastings with the Manour of Crowherst Burgwash c. to Sir Iohn Pelham the elder upon whose loialtie wisedome and valour he much relied Before we depart from Hastings as it shall not bee offensive I hope to remember that in the first daies of the Normans there were in this shire great gentlemen surnamed Hastings de Hastings of whom Mathew de Hastings held the Manour of Grenocle in this service that he should find at this haven an oaâ—e when the kings would crosse over the seas so now the honourable house of the Hastings that are Earles of Huntingdon enjoy this title of Hastings For King Edward the Fourth bestowed this title with certaine Royalties as they terme them upon Sir William Hastings his Chamberlaine Who is by Cominaus commended for that having received an yearely pension of Lewis the eleaventh the French King hee could not for any thing bee brought to give unto the French King an acquittance of his owne hand writing I will in no case saith hee that my hand-writing bee seene amongst the accounts of the French Kings Treasure But this man by diving so deepe into the friendship of Kings overwhelmed and drowned himselfe quite For whiles hee spake his minde and reasoned over franckly at a private consultation with the Usurper King Richard the Third all of a sodaine and unlooked for had hee was away and without pleading for himselfe presently made shorter by the head upon the next blocke Neither is this to be passed over in silence that King Henrie the Sixth adorned Sir Thomas Hoo a worthy knight whom hee also chose into the order of the Garter with the title of Baron Hoo and Hastings whose daughters and heires were married to Sir Gefferie Bollen from whence by the mothers side Queene ELIZABETH was descended to Roger Coplie to Iohn Carew Iohn Devenish From thence the shore passing under Farley hill farre seene both by sea and land whereon standeth a solitary Church full bleakly and a beacon is hollowed with an in-winding Bay and upon it standeth Winchelsey which was built in the time of King Edward the Frst when a more ancient towne of the same name in the Saxons tongue called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 was quite swallowed up with the rough and raging Ocean in the yeare of our Lord 1250. what time the face of the earth both heere and also in the coast of Kent neere bordering became much changed The situation thereof I will set before your eyes in the very words of Th. Walsingham Situate it is upon a high hill very steepe on that side which either looketh toward the sea or over-looketh the rode where ships lie at anchor Whence it is that the way leading from that part to the haven goeth not streight forward least it should by an over sodaine and downe right descent force those that goe downe to fall headlong or them that goe up to creepe rather with their hands then to walke but lying side-waies it windeth with curving turnes in and out to one side and the other At first it was inclosed with a rampier after-wards with strong wals and scarce beganne it to flourish when it was sacked by the French men and Spaniards and by reason that the sea shrunke backe from it began sodainely as it were to fade and loose the beauty And now only beareth the countenance of a faire towne and hath under it in the levell which the sea relinquished a Castle fortified by Henrie the Eighth and large marshes defended from sea-rages with workes very chargeably By the decay hereof and the benefit of the sea together Rhie opposite unto it and as highly seated began to flourish or rather to reflourish For that in old time it flourished and that William of Ipres Earle of Kent fortified it Ipres Tower now the prison and the immunities or priviledges that it had in common with the Cinque-ports may sufficiently shew But by occasion of the Vicinity of Winchelsey or the shrinking backe of the sea it lay for a good while in former ages unknowne But when Winchelsey decaied and King Edward the Third walled it where the cliffes defended it not it beganne to breath againe and revive and in our fathers daies the sea to make amends aboundantly for the harmes it had done raised with an unusuall tempest so rushed in and insinuated it selfe in forme of a bay that it made a very commodious haven which another tempest also in our daies did not a little helpe Since which time it greatly reflourished with inhabitants buildings fishing and navigation and at this day there is an usuall passage from hence into Normandie yet now it beginneth to complaine that the sea abandoneth it such is the variable and interchangeable course of that element and in part imputeth it that the river Rother is not contained in his channell and so looseth his force to carry away the sands and beach which the sea doth inbeate into the haven Notwithstanding it hath many fishing vessels and serveth London and the Court with varietie of sea-fish Now whether it have the name of Riue a Norman
word which signifieth a strond or Banke I cannot easily say But seeing that in Records it is very often called in Latine Ripa and they who bring fish from hence be termed Ripiers I encline rather this way and would encline more if the Frenchmen used this word for a stroud or shore as Plinius doth Ripa These two townes neither may it seeme impertinent to note it belonged to the Abbey of Fescampe in Normandie But when King Henry the Third perceived that religious men intermingled secretly in matters of State he gave them in exchange for these two Chiltenham and Sclover two Manours in Glocester-shire and other lands adding for the reason that the Abbat and Monkes might not lawfully fight with temporall armes against the enemies of the Crowne Into this haven the River Rother or Rither sheddeth it selfe which issuing forth at Ritheram fieldes for so the Englishmen in ancient times called that towne which wee doe Rotherfield passeth by Burgwash in old time Burghersh which had Lords so surnamed thereof among whom was that Sir Bartholomew Burgwash a mightie man in his time who being approved in most weighty Ambassages and warres in Aquitaine for his wisedome and valour deserved to be created a Baron of the Realme to be admitted into the Order of the Garter at the very first institution even among the Founders thereof and to bee made Constable of Dover Castle and Warden of the Cinque-ports And his sonne carrying the same fore-name not degenerating from his father lived in high honour and estimation but hee left behind him one daughter and no more issue married into the house of Le Despencer of which there remaineth still a goodly of-spring of Noble personages Echingham next adjoyning had also a Baron named William de Echingham in the time of King Edward the Second whose ancestours were the hereditarie Seneschals of this Rape And their inheritance in the end by the heires females name to the Barons of Windsor and to the Tirwhits Then the Rother dividing his water into three channels passeth under Roberts bridge where Alured de S. Martin in King Henrie the seconds daies founded a Monasterie and so running beside Bodiam a Castle belonging to the ancient Family of the Lewknors built by the Dalegrigs here falleth as I said into the Ocean Now I have passed along the Sea coast of Sussex And as for the mid-land part of the shire I have nothing more to relate thereof unlesse I should recount the woods and forrests lying out faire in length and breadth which are a remnant of the vast wood Anderida Among which to begin at the West those of greatest note are these The forrest of Arundill Saint Leonards forrest Word forrest and not farre off East Gren-sted anciently a parcell of the Barony of Eagle and made a Mercate by King Henry the seventh Ashdowne forrest under which standeth Buckhurst the habitation of the ancient house of the Sackviles out of which race Queene Elizabeth in our daies aduanced Thomas Sackvile her allie by the Bollens a wise Gentleman to be Baron of Buckhurst took him into her Privie Councell admitted him into the most honorable Order of the Garter and made him Lord Treasurer of England whom also of late K. Iames created Earle of Dorset Waterdown forrest where I saw Eridge a lodg of the Lord Abergevenny and by it craggie rocks rising up so thicke as though sporting nature had there purposed a sea Here-by in the very confines of Kent is Groomebridge an habitation of the Wallers whose house there was built by Charles Duke of Orleance father to K. Lewis the 12. of France when he being taken prisoner in the battaile at Agincourt by Richard Waller of this place was here a long time detained prisoner As touching the Earles Sussex had five by the line of Albiney who were likewise called Earles of Arundell but had the third pennie of Sussex as Earles then had The first of them was William D' Albiney the sonne of William Butler to King Henrie the first and Lord of Buckenham in Norfolk who gave for his armes Gules a Lion rampant Or and was called one while Earle of Arundell and another while Earle of Chichester for that in those places he kept his chiefe residence This man of Adeliz the daughter of Godfrey Barbatus Duke of Lorraine and of Brabant Queen Dowager or Widdow of K. Henrie the First begat William the second Earle of Sussex and of Arundell father to William the third Earle unto whom Mabile the sister and one of the heires of the last Raulph Earle of Chester bare William the fourth Earle Hugh the fifth who both died without issue and also foure daughters married unto Sir Robert Yateshall Sir Iohn Fitz-Alan Sir Roger de Somery and Sir Robert de Mount-hault After this the title of Arundell budded forth againe as I said before in the Fitz-Alans but that of Sussex lay hidden and lost unto this our age which hath seene five Ratcliffes descended of the most Noble house of the Fitz-walters that derived their pedigree from the Clares bearing that honour to wit Robert created Earle of Sussex by King Henrie the Eight who wedded Elizabeth daughter of Henry Stafford Earle of Buckingham of whom he begat Henrie the second Earle unto whom Elizabeth the daughter of Thomas Howard Duke of Norfolk brought forth Thomas who being Lord Chamberlaine to Queene Elizabeth died without issue a most worthy and honourable personage in whose mind were seated joyntly both politike wisedome and martiall prowesse as England and Ireland acknowledged Him succeeded Sir Henrie his brother and after him Robert his onely sonne now in his flower This Province containeth parishes 312. THus farre of Sussex which together with Suth-rey was the habitation of the Regni in the time of the Britaines and afterwards the kingdome of the South-Saxons called in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which in the two and thirty yeare after the Saxons comming was begun by Ella who as Beda writeth First among the Kings of the English Nation ruled all their Southern Provinces which are severed by the River Humber and the limits adjoyning thereto The first Christian King was Edilwalch baptized in the presence of Wulpher King of Mercia his Godfather and he in signe of adoption gave unto him two Provinces namely the Isle of Wight and the Province of the Meanvari But in the 306. yeare after the beginning of this Kingdome when Aldinius the last King was slaine by Ina King of West-Saxons it came wholly under the Dominion of the West-Saxons CANTIVM NOw am I come to Kent which Countrey although master WILLIAM LAMBARD a man right well endued with excellent learning and as godly vertues hath so lively depainted out in a full volume that his painefull felicitie in that kind bath left little or nothing for others yet according to the project of this worke which I have taken in hand I will runne it over also and
it with King Henrie the Eighth Somewhat lower hard by Darent standeth Lullingstone where there was sometime a Castle the seat of a family of the same name but now of Sir Percival Hart descended from one of the coheires of the Lord Bray Then Darent giveth name unto Darentford commonly Dartford a great mercat towne well frequented and well watered where King Edward the Third built a Nunnery which King Henry the Eighth converted into a house for himselfe and his successours Heere the rivelet Crey anciently called Crecan intermingleth it selfe with Darent when in his short course hee hath imparted his name to five townelets which hee watereth as Saint Mary Crey Pauls Crey Votes-Crey North Crey and Crey-ford in former ages Crecanford where Hengist the Saxon the eighth yeare after his arrivall joyned battaile with the Brittaines and after he had slaine their captaines brought them under with so great a slaughter that afterwards hee never stood in feare of them but established his kingdome quietly in Kent From the river Darent or Dart unto the mouth of Medway the Thames seeth nothing above him but little townes pleasantly seated which to passe over in silence were no prejudice either of their fame or any thing els Yet amongst them is Swans-combe of which I have heretofore spoken of honorable memorie among the Kentish men for obtaining their the continuance of their ancient franchises afterward it was well knowne by the Montceusies men of great Nobility the owners therof who had there Barony here-about And by it Graves-end so called as Master Lambert is my author as the Gereves-end that is the limit of the Gereve or Reve. A towne as well knowne as any other in England for the usuall passage by water betweene it and London since the Abbat of Grace by the tower of London to which it appertained obtained of King Richard the second that the inhabitants of it and Milton onely should transport passengers from thence to London King Henrie the Eighth when he fortified the sea coast raised two Platformes or Block-houses here and two other opposite on Essex side Beyond Graves-end is Shorn held anciently by Sir Roger Northwood by service to carry with other the kings tennants a white ensigne fortie daies at his owne charges when the King warred in Scotland Somewhat more within the land lieth Cobham the habitation for a long time of the Barons of Cobham of whom Iohn Cobham the last of that name founded a Colledge here and a castle at Cowling who left one onely daughter wife to Sir Iohn de la Pole Knight Shee likewise bare but one daughter though married in her time to many husbands But by Sir Reginald Braibrooke onely had shee issue As for her husband Sir Iohn Old Castle whiles hee endeavoured to bring in innovation in religion was both hanged and burnt Ioane her onely daughter by Sir Reginald Braybrooke was wedded unto Thomas Broke of Somersetshire from whom six Lord Cobhams have lineally descended and flourished in honorable reputation untill our time From Graves-end a little country called Ho lying as a demy Island between rivers Thames and Medway stretcheth it selfe into the East and is for situation but unholsome At the entry hereof is Cowling Castle built by Iohn Lord Cobham in a moorish ground and Cliffe a good bigge towne so called of a cliffe upon which it standeth But whether it bee that Clives at Ho so famous in the tender age and infancie of our English Church by reason of a Synode there holden I dare not as others doe affirme considering that in regard of the site it is a place inconvenient for such an assembly and besides that Clives at Hoo seemeth to have beene within the Kingdome of the Mercians As for the river Medweg now called Medway and in the British tongue unlesse I misse of the truth Vaga whereunto afterward was added Med hath his spring head in the wood Anderida which is termed the Weald that is a Wood-land country and taketh up the South-part of this region farre and wide At first whiles it carrieth but a slender streame it receiveth the Eden by Penshurst the seat anciently as it seemeth by the name of Sir Stephen de Penherst who also was called de Penshester a famous Warden of the Cinque ports but now the house of the Sidneies who derive their race from William de Sidney Chamberlaine to King Henrie the second out of which came Sir Henrie Sidney that renowned Lord deputy of Ireland who of the daughter of Iohn Dudley Duke of Northumberland and Earle of Warwicke begat Philip and Robert This Robert Iames our soveraigne King made right honorable first by the title of Baron Sidney of Penshurst and afterwards of Vicount Lisle But Sir Philip whom I cannot passe over in silence beeing the glorious starre of this familie a lively patterne of vertue and the lovely joy of all the learned sort fighting valerously with the enemy before Zutphen in Gelderland died manfully This is that Sidney whom as Gods will was he should be therefore borne into the world even to shew unto our age a sample of ancient vertues so his good pleasure was before any man looked for it to call for him againe and take him out of the world as beeing more worthy of heaven then earth Thus wee may see Perfect vertue sodainely vanisheth out of sight and the best men continue not long Then the river Medway branching it selfe into five streamlets is joyned with as many stone Bridges and thereof giveth the name of Tunbridge to the towne there situate as the towne of Bridges This about King William Rufus his time Richard sonne of Count Gilbert Grandchild to Godfrey Earle of Ewe Lord of Briony obtained in requitall for Briony in Normandie when there had bin long debate about Briony This Richard as William Gemeticensis writeth in recompence for the same castle received in England the towne of Tunbridge for it And the report goeth that the Lowy of Briony was measured round about with a line and with the same line brought into England hee received so much groūd measured out at Tunbridge Shortly after he built here a faire large castle fenced with the river a deepe ditch and strong walles and albeit it is now ruinous and 〈◊〉 Keepe attired with Ivie yet it manifestly sheweth what it was His posteritie who were Earles of Glocester and surnamed De Clare for that they were Lords of Clare in Suffolke built here a priorie for Chanons of Saint Augustines order founded the parish Church which was impropriated to the Knights of Saint Iohn of Hierusalem and compounded about the tenure of the Mannour for which there had beene long suit to hold it of the Archbishop of Canterburie by Knights fee and to be their high Stewards at their inthronizations From these Clares Earles of Glocester it came by an heire generall to Sir Hugh Audley Earle of Glocester and
small trouble and labour about it and when he had hanged all the rest that he found therein he sent the wife and sonnes of Bartholmew aforesaid to the Tower of London Thus Medway having received this rivelet from Leeds fetching about through good grounds rūneth by Allington sometime a castle now lesse than a castellet where Sir T. Wyat the elder a worthy learned knight reedified a faire house now decaied whose son Sr. Thomas enriched by an heire of Sir T. Haut proposing to himself great hopes upō fair pretēses pitifully overthrew himself his state Hence commeth Medway to Ailsford in the old English Saxon 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which H. of Huntingdon calleth Elstre Ninnius Episford who hath written that it was named in the British tongue Saissenaeg haibail of the Saxons there vanquished like as others in the very same sense termed it Anglesford For Guortemere the Britaine Guortigerns sonne did here set upon Hengist and the English Saxons whom being disraied and not able to abide a second charge he put all to flight so as they had beene utterly defeated for ever but that Hengist skil-full and provident to prevent and divert danger withdrew himselfe into the Isle of Tenet untill that invincible vigour and heat of the Britanes were allaied and fresh supplies came to his succour out of Germanie In this Battaile were slaine the Generalls of both sides Catigern the Britaine and Horsa the Saxon of whom the one buried at Horsted not farre from hence gave name to the place and Catigern honored with a stately and solemne funerall is thought to have beene enterred neere unto Ailesford where under the side of a hill I saw foure huge rude hard stones erected two for the sides one transversall in the middest betweene them and the hugest of all piled and laied over them in manner of the British monument which is called Stone heng but not so artificially with mortis and tenents Verily the unskilfull common people terme it at this day of the same Catigern Keiths or Kits Coty house In Ailsford it selfe for the religious house of the Carmelites founded by Richard Lord Grey of Codnor in the time of King Henrie the Third is now seene a faire habitation of Sir William Siddey a learned Knight painefully and expensfully studious of the common good of his country as both his endowed house for the poore and the bridge heere with the common voice doe plentifully testifie Neither is Boxley neere adjoyning to bee passed over in silence where William de Ipres in Flaunders Earle of Kent founded an Abbey in the yeare of our Lord 1145. and translated thither the Monkes from Clarevalle in Burgundie Medway having wound himselfe higher from the East receiveth a brooke springing neare Wrotham or Wirtham so named for plentie of wortes where the Archbishops had a place untill Simon Islep pulled it downe leaveth Malling which grew to bee a towne after Gundulph Bishop of Rochester had there founded an Abbey of Nunnes and watereth Leibourn which hath a Castle sometime the seate of a family thereof surnamed out of which Sir Roger Leibourn was a great Agent in the Barons warres and William was a Parliamentary Baron in the time of King Edward the first Neare neighbour to Leibourn is Briling now the habitation of the Lord Abergeveny in times past parcell of the Baronie of the Maminots then of the Saies whose Inheritance at length by heires generall came to the families of Clinton Fienes and Aulton Upon the banke of Medway Eastward somewhat higher after it hath passed by Halling where Hamo Heath Bishop of Rochester built an house for his successors there standeth an ancient Citie which Antonine calleth DVRO BRVS DVRO-BRIVAE and in another place more truely DVRO PROVae and DVRO BROVae Bede DVRO BREVIS and in the declining state of the Romane Empire processe of time contracted his name so that it came to be named ROIBIS and so by addition of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which commeth of the latin word Castrum betokeneth among our ancestors a city or Castle was called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and now with us more short Rochester and in Latin Roffa of one Rhufus as Bede guesseth but it seemeth unto mee to retaine in it somewhat still of that old name Durobrevis Neither is there cause why any man should doubt of the name seeing that by the account of journies or distance betweene places and Bedes authoritie it is named expressely in the Charter of the foundation of the Cathedrall Church there DVROBROVIS yet thus much I would advertise the Reader that in the printed bookes of Bede it is read Darueruum whereas in the manuscript copies it is termed DVROBREVIS seated it is in a bottome fortified on the one side with a marsh the river the weake walles and as William of Malmesburie saith pent within too streight a roome whereupon in time past it was counted a Castle rather then a Citie For Bede calleth it Castellum Cantuariorum that is the Kentishmens Castle But now it stretcheth forth with large suburbs on the West East and South sides It hath passed through no few dangers and mischances In the yeare of Christ 676. it was overthrowne and laid along by King Aetheldred the Mercian and many a time afterward sacked by the Danes Aethelbert King of Kent erected there a sumptuous Church which also he made more famous with the dignitie of Bishopricke ordaining Iustus to bee the first Bishop of that See But when it fell to decay for very age Bishop Gundulph a Norman about the yeare 1080. reedified it and thrusting out the Priests brought in Monkes in their roomes and when they were cast out a Deane sixe Prebendaries and Scholars were substituted in their places Neere unto the Church there standeth over the river an old Castle fortified both by art and situation Which as the report goeth Odo Bishop of Bayeux and Earle of Kent built But it was no doubt King William the first that built it For in Domesday booke we read thus The Bishop of Rouecester holdeth in Elesford for exchange of the land on which the Castle is seated Yet certaine it is that Bishop Odo when his hope depended of a doubtfull change of the State held this against King William Rufus At which time there passed proclamation through England that whosoever would not be reputed a Niding should repaire to recover Rochester Castle Whereupon the youth fearing that name and most reproachfull and opprobrious in that age swarmed thither in such numbers that Odo was enforced to yeeld the place lose his dignitie and abjure the realme But concerning the reedification of this Castle about this time listen what the Text of Rocester saith when King William the second would not confirme the gift of Lanfrank as touching the Manour of Hedenham in the County of Buckingham made unto Rochester church unlesse Lanfranck and Gundulph Bishop of
these very same of which we now speake And verily no where else are they found but in a chalkie and marly soile Vnlesse a man would thinke that our English-Saxons digged such caves and holes to the same use and purpose as the Germans did of whom they were descended For they were wont as Tacitus writeth to make holes and caves under the ground and those to charge aloft with great heapes of dung as harbours of refuge for Winter and garners of receit for corne because by such like places they mitigate the rigour of cold wether and if at any time the enemie commeth hee wasteth onely the open ground but as for those things that lie hidden and buried under the earth they are either unknowne or in this respect doe disappoint the enemies for that they are to be sought for From above Feversham the shoare runneth on plentifull of shel-fish but especially oisters whereof there are many pits or stewes as far as Reculver and farther This Reculver is a place of ancient memorie named in the old English-Saxon Reaculf but in elder time REGVLBIVM For so it is named in the Roman Office booke Notitia Provinciarum which reporteth that the captaine of the primer band of the Vetasians lay heere in garrison under the Lieutenant of the Saxon-shoare for so was the sea coast a-long this tract called who had the command then of nine Ports as the L. Warden now hath of five Ports And verily the Roman Emperours coines digged up there give testimony to this antiquitie of the place In it Aethelbert King of Kent when he had made a grant of Canterbury to Augustine the Monk built himselfe a Palace and Bassa an English-Saxon beatified it with a Monasterie out of which Brightwald the Eighth Archbishop of Canterbury was elected Of this Monastery or Minster it was named Raculf-Minster what time as Edred brother to King Edward the Elder gave it to Christ-church in Canterbury Howbeit at this day it is nothing else but an uplandish country towne and if it bee of any name it hath it for the salt savory Oisters there dredged and for that Minster the steeples whereof shooting up their loftie spires stand the Mariners in good stead as markes whereby they avoide certaine sands and shelves in the mouth of the Thames For as he versifieth in his Philippeis Cernit oloriferum Thamisin sua Doridi amarae Flumina miscentem It now beholds swann-breeding Thames where he doth mix his streame With brackish sea Now are we come to the Isle Tanet which the river Stour by Bede named Wantsum severeth from the firme land by a small channell running betweene which river made of two divers rivelets in the wood-land called the Weald so soone as it goeth in one entire streame visiteth Ashford and Wye two prety Mercate townes well knowne Either of them had sometimes their severall Colledges of Priests the one built by Iohn Kemp Archbishop of Canterbury who was there borne the other to wit of Ashford by Sir R. Fogge Knight Wye also had a speciall fountaine into which God infused a wonderfull gift and vertue at the instant prayer of Eustace a Norman Abbat if we may beleeve Roger of Hoveden whom I would advise you to have recourse unto if you take delight in such like miracles As how the blind by drinking thereof recovered sight the dumbe their speech the deafe their hearing the lame their limbes And how a woman possessed of the devill sipping thereof vomited two toades which immediately were first transformed into huge blacke dogs and againe into asses and much more no lesse strange than ridiculous which some in that age as easily believed as others falsely forged Thence the Stour leaving East-well the inhabitation of the family of the Finches worshipfull of it selfe and by descent from Philip Belknap and Peoplesham goeth on to Chilham or as other call it Iulham where are the ruines of an old Castle which one Fulbert of Dover is reported to have built whose issue male soone failed and ended in a daughter inheritrice whom Richard the base sonne of King Iohn tooke to wife and had with her this Castle and the lands thereto belonging Of her hee begat two daughters namely Lora the wife of VVilliam Marmion and Isabell wife first to David of Strathbolgy Earle of Athole in Scotland afterward to Sir Alexander Baliol who was called to Parliament by the name of Lord of Chilham mother to that Iohn Earle of Athole who being condemned oftentimes for treason was hanged at the last upon a gibbet fifty foot high as the King commanded because he might be so much the more conspicuous in mens eies as he was of higher and nobler birth and being cut downe halfe alive had his head smitten off and the truncke of his body throwen into the fire a very cruell kinde of punishment and seldome seene among us And after his goods were confiscate King Edward the first bounteously bestowed this castle together with Felebergh Hundred upon Sir Bartholomew Badilsmer who likewise quickly lost the same for his treason as I have before related There is a constant report among the inhabitants that Iulius Caesar in his second voiage against the Britans encamped at this Chilham and that thereof it was called Iulham that is Iulius his Mansion and if I be not deceived they have the truth on their side For heere about it was when at his second remove he in his march staied upon the intelligence that his ships were sore weather-beaten and thereupon returned and left his army encamped tenne daies while he rigged and repaired the decaies of his Navy And in his march from hence was encountered sharply by the Britans and lost with many other Laberius Durus a Marshall of the field A little beneath this towne there is a prety hillocke to be seene apparelled in a fresh suit of greene sord where men say many yeeres agoe one Iullaber was enterred whom some dreame to have beene a Giant others a Witch But I conceiving an opinion that some antiquity lieth hidden under that name doe almost perswade my selfe that the foresaid Laberius was heere buried and so that the said hillocke became named Iul-laber Five miles from hence the river Stoure dividing his Channell runneth swiftly by DVROVERNVM the chiefe Cittie of this Countie and giveth it his name For Durwhern in the British tongue signifieth a swift river Ptolome calleth it in steed of Durovernum DARVERNVM Bede and others DOROBERNIA the English Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The Kentishmens citie Ninnius and the Britans Caer Kent that is the Citie of Cent wee Canterbury and the later writers in Latine Cantuaria A right antient citie this is and famous no doubt in the Romans time not over great as William of Malmesbury said 400. yeares since nor verie small much renowned both for the situation and exceeding fertility of the soile adjoining as also for
slaughter of them when at Lapis Tituli for so is that place named in Ninnius which we now call Stouar almost in the same sense and haven certainely it was hee put them to flight and forced them with all the speed they might to take their Pinnaces In which place also he gave commandement saith he that himselfe should bee buried to represse thereby as he thought the furious outrages of the English Saxons in like sort as Scipio Africanus did who commanded that his tombe should bee so set as that it might looke toward Africa supposing that his verie tombe would be a terror to the Carthaginians Here also at VVipped fleet so called of VVipped the Saxon there slaine Hengest discomfited the Britaines and put them to flight after hee had sore tired them with sundry conflicts S. Austine our Apostle as they call him many yeares after landed in this Isle unto whose blessing the credulous Clergie ascribed the plentifull fertility of the country and the Monke Gotceline cried out in this manner O the land of Tenet happy by reason of her fertilitie but most happy for receiving and entertaining so many Divine in-commers bringing God with them or rather so many heavenly citizens Egbert the third King of the Kentishmen to pacifie dame Domneva a devout Lady whom before time he had exceedingly much wronged granted here a faire piece of land wherein she errected a Monastery for 70. veiled virgins the prioresse whereof was Mildred for her holinesse canonized a Saint and the Kings of Kent bestowed many faire possessions upon it but Withred especially who that I may note the antiquitie and manner of livery of Seisin in that age out of the very forme of his owne Donation For the full complement of his confirmation thereof laied upon the holy altar a turfe of that ground which he gave at Humantun Heere afterward sundry times arrived the Danes who piteously empoverished this Island by robbings and pillages and also polluted this Monasterie of Domneva with all kind of cruelty that it flourished not againe before the Normans government Heere also landed Lewis of France who called in by the tumultuous Barons of England against King Iohn published by their instigation a pretended right to the Crowne of England For that whereas King Iohn for his notorious treason against King Richard his brother absent in the holy-Holy-land was by his Peeres lawfully condemned and therefore after the death of King Richard the right of the Crowne was devolved to the Queene of Castile sister to the said King Richard and that shee and her heires had conveied over their right to the said Lewis and his wife her daughter Also that King Iohn had forfeited his Kingdome both by the murther of his Nephew Arthur whereof he was found guilty by his Peeres in France and also by subjecting his Kingdomes which were alwaies free to the Pope as much as in him lay contrary to his oath at his Coronation and that without the consent of the Peeres of the Realme c. Which I leave to Historians with the successe of his expedition least I might seeme to digresse extraordinarily Neither must I passe over heere in silence that which maketh for the singular praise of the inhabitants of Tenet those especially which dwell by the roads or harbours of Margate Ramsgate and Brodstear For they are passing industrious and as if they were Amphibii that is both land creatures and sea creatures get their living both by sea and land as one would say with both these elements they be Fisher-men and Plough-men as well Husband-men as Mariners and they that hold the plough-taile in earing the ground the same hold the helme in steering the ship According to the season of the yeare they knit nets they fish for Cods Herrings Mackarels c. they saile and carry forth Merchandise The same againe dung and mannure their grounds Plough Sow harrow reape their Corne and they inne it Men most ready and well appointed both for sea and land and thus goe they round and keepe a circle in these their labours Futhermore whereas that otherwhiles there happen shipwrackes heere for there lie full against the shore those dangerous flats shallowes shelves and sands so much feared of Sailers which they use to call The Goodwinsands The Brakes The four-foots The whitdick c. these men are wont to bestir themselves lustily in recovering both ships men and Merchandize endangered At the mouth of Wantsum Southward which men thinke hath changed his channell over against the Isle stood a City which Ptolomee calleth RHVTVPIAN Tacitus PORTVS TRVTVLENSIS for Rhutupensis if Beatus Renanus conjectureth truely Antonine RHITVPIS PORTVS Ammianus Marcellinus RHVTVPIAH STATIO that is the Road of Rhutupiae Orosius THE HAVEN and City of Rhutubus the old English-Saxons as Beda witnesseth Reptacesler others Ruptimuth Alfred of Beverly nameth it Richberge we at this day Richborow Thus hath time sported in varying of one and the same name Whence this name should arise it is not for certaine knowen But seeing the places neere unto it as Sandwich and Sandiby have their denomination of Sandi I considering also that Rhyd Tufith in the British-tongue betokeneth a sandy fourd I would willingly if I durst derive it from thence This City seemed to have beene seated on the descent of an hill the Castle there stood overlooking from an higher place the Ocean which is now so farre excluded by reason of sandy residence inbealched with the tides that it comes hardly within a mile of it Right famous and of great name was this City while the Romans ruled here From hence was the usual passing out of Britan to France and the Neatherlands at it the Roman fleets arrived here it was that Lupicinus sent by Constantius the Emperour into Britaine for to represse the rodes and invasions of Scots and Picts both landed the Heruli and Batavians and Maesian regiments Heere also Theodosius the father of Theodosius the Emperour to whom as Symmachus witnesseth the Senate decreed for pacifying Britan armed Statues on horse-backe arrived with his Herculij Iovij Victores Fidentes for these were names of Roman regiments Afterwards when the Saxon Pirates impeached entercourse of merchants and infested our coasts with continuall piracies the Second Legion Augusta which being remooved by the Emperour Claudius out of Germany had remained many yeares in Garrison at Isea Silurum in Wales was translattd hither and had a Provost of their owne heere under the great Lieutenant and Count of the Saxon shore Which Provostship happily that Clemens Maximus bare who being heere in Britan by the soldiers saluted Emperour slew Gratian the lawfull Emperour and was afterwards himselfe slaine by Theodosius at Aquileia For this Maximus it was whom Ausonius in the verses of Aquileia called the Rhutupine robber Maximus armigeri quondam sub nomine lixae Faelix quae tanti spectatrix laeta triumphi Fudisti Ausonio Rhutupinum Marte latronem
deliver up into his hands this Castle together with the well what time as he aspired to the Kingdome and after hee had settled his estate and affaires at London thought it good before all other things to fortifie this peece and to assigne faire lands in Kent unto Gentlemen to bee held in Castle-guard with this condition to be in readinesse with certaine numbers of men for defence of the same which service notwithstanding at this day is redeemed with a yearely paiment of money For when Sir Hubert de Burgh was Constable of this Castle to use the words of an old writer he weighed with himselfe that it was not safe for the Castle to have every moneth new warders for the Castle guard procured by the assent of the King and all that held of that Castle that every one should send for the ward of one moneth tenne shillings and that therewith certaine men elected and sworne as well horse as foote should be waged for to gard the Castle It is written that Phillip surnamed Augustus King of France when Lewis his sonne went about to gaine the Crowne of England had wonne certaine Cities and Forts and could not get this being manfully defended by the said Sir Hubert de Burgh said thus Verily my sonne hath not one foote of land in England untill he be Master of Dover Castle as beeing in very deed the strongest hold of all England and most commodious for the French Vpon the other cliffe which standeth over against it and beareth up his head in manner even with it are extant the remaines of a very ancient building One I know not upon what reason induced said it was Caesars Altar But Iohn Twin of Canterbury a learned old man who in his youth saw a great part thereof standing whole and entire assured me that it had beene a Watch-towre to give night light and direction to ships Like as there stood another opposite unto it at Bologne in France erected thereby the Romans and long after reedified by Charles the Great as Regino witnesseth in whom Phanum for Pharum is falsly read which at this day the French terme Tour de Order and the English The old man of Bullen Vnder this cliffe Henry the Eighth in our fathers daies with exceeding labour and 63000. pounds charges by pitching huge posts fast within the very sea and the same bound together with yron worke and heaping thereupon a deale of timber and stones brought up a mightie Pile which we call The Peere wherein the ships might more safely ride But the furious violence of the raging Ocean soone overcame the laudable endeavour of that puissant Prince and so the frame of this worke beaten continually upon with the waves became dis-joyned For the repaire whereof Queene Elizabeth laid out a great summe of money and the Authoritie of Parliament imposed upon every English ship that carry forth or bring in merchandise a certaine toll upon Tonneage for certaine yeares This Sea coast of Britaine is seperated from the Continent of Europe by a frete or streight where as some suppose the Seas brake in and made way betweene the lands Solinus calleth it Fretum Gallicum Tacitus and Ammianus Macellinus Fretum Oceani and Oceanum Fretalem Gratius the Poet Freta Morinum dubio refluentia ponto The narrow Seas on Bollen-coast that keepe uncertaine tides They of the Netherlands call it Dehofden of the two heads or promontories we the Narrow-sea and The strait of Calais as the Frenchmen Pas de Callais For this is the place as saith a Poet of our time gemini quà janua ponti Faucibus angustis latèque frementibus undis Gallorum Anglorumque vetat concurrere terras Where current of two seas In gullet streight wherein throughout their billowes rage and fret Keepes France and England so a part as though they never met The narrow sea as Marcellinus truly writeth swelleth at every tide with terrible high flouds and againe at the ebbe becommeth as flat as a plaine field if it be not raised with winds and counter seas betweene two risings of the moone it floweth twice and ebbeth as oft For as the Moone ascendeth toward the Meridian and is set againe under the Horizon in the just opposite point the Ocean heere swelleth mightily and the huge billowes rush upon the shores with so great a noise that the Poet might well say Rhutupináque littora fervent And Rhutup shore doth boile and billow and D. Paulinus where he speaketh of the County of Bulloigne which he termeth the utmost skirt of the world not without cause used these words Oceanum barbaris fluctibus frementem that is The Ocean raging and roaring with barbarous billowes Heere might arise a question beseeming a learned man that hath wit and time at will whether where this narrow sea runneth between France and Britaine now there was a narrow banke or necke of land that in times past conjoyned these regions and afterwards being broken either by the generall deluge or by rushing in of the waves or else by occasion of some earth-quake did let in the waters to make a through passage Verily as no man makes doubt that the face of the whole earth hath beene altered partly by the said deluge and partly by long continuance of time and other causes as also that Ilands by earthquakes or the shrinking back of waters were laid and joyned unto firme lands so most certainly it appeareth by authors of best credite that Ilands by reason of earthquakes and the breaking in of waters were severed disjoyned and rent from the Continent Whereupon Pythagoras in Ovid saith thus Vidi ego quod quondam fuerat solidissima tellus Esse fretum vidi factas ex aequore terras My selfe have seene maine ground sometime turned into sea and sand And seene I have againe the Sea became maine setled land Strabo gathering of things to come by those that are past concluded that such Isthmi neckes or narrow bankes of land both have beene and shall bee wrought and pierced through You see saith Seneca whole regions violently removed from their places and now to lie beyond the Sea which lay before bounding upon it and hard by You see there is separation made both of Countries and nations when as some part of nature is provoked of it selfe or when the mighty wind beateth strongly upon some sea the force whereof as in generall is wonderfull For although it rage but in part yet it is of the universall power that so it rageth Thus hath the sea rent Spaine from the Continent of Africke Thus by Deucalions floud so much spoken of by the greatest Poets was Sicilie out from Italy And hereupon Virgil wrote thus Haec loca vi quondam vasta convulsa ruinâ Tantum aevi longinqua valet mutare vetustas Dissiluisse ferunt cùm protinùs utraque tellus Vna foret venit medio vi pontus undis Hesperium Siculo latus abscidit arvaque urbes Littore diductas angusto interluit aestu
Sir Walter Clifford in this Castle when the house was all on a light fire hee was killed with a stone that from the top of an high Turret fell upon his head and brained him Neither have I any thing else to be recounted in this wood-countrey beside Newnham a pretty mercate and Westbury thereby a seate of the Bainhams of ancient descent But that Herbert who had wedded the sister of the said Mahel Earle of Hereford in her right was called Lord of Deane froÌ„ whom that Noble house of the Herberts fetcheth their pedigree out of which family came the Lords of Blanleveney and of late daies the Herberts Earles of Huntingdon and Pembroch with others From hence also if wee may believe David Powell in his historie of Wales was descended Antonie Fitz-Herbert whose great learning and industrie in the wisedome of our law both the judiciall Court of Flees wherein he sate Iustice a long time and also those exact bookes of our common law by him exquisitely penned and published doe sufficiently witnesse But other have drawne his descent and that more truly if I have insight therein from the race of the Fitz-Herberts Knights in Derby shire The river Severn called by the Britains HAFFREN after it hath run a long course with a channell somewhat narrow no sooner entereth into this shire but entertaineth the river Avon and another brooke comming from the East Betwixt which is seated Tewkesbury in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 by others Theoci Curia taking the name from one Theocus who there did lead an Eremites life It is a great and faire towne having three bridges to passe over standing upon three rivers famous for making of Wollen cloath and the best mustard which for the quicke heate that it hath biteth most and pierceth deepest but most famous in times past by reason of an ancient Monastery which Dodo a man of great power in Mercia founded in the yeare 715 where before time he kept his royall court as is testified by this inscription which there remained long after HANC AVLAM REGIAM DODO DVX CONSECRARI FECIT IN ECCLESIAM THIS ROIAL PALACE DVKE DODO CAVSED TO BE CONSECRATED FOR A CHVRCH And Odo his brother endowed the same which being by continuance of time and the fury of enemies ruinated Robert FITZ-HAIMON the Norman Lord of Corboile and Thorigny in Normandie reedified translating monks from Cranborn in Dorsetshire hither upon a devout mind verily and a religious that he might make some amends to the Church for the losse that the Church of Baieux in Normandie had sustained which K. Henry the first for to free him from his enemies had set on fire and burned and afterwards repenting that which he had done built againe It cannot writeth William of Malmesbury be easily reported how highly Robert Fitz-hamon exalted this Monastery wherin the beauty of the buildings ravished the eies and the charity of the Monks allured the hearts of such folke as used to come thither Within this both himselfe and his successours Earles of Glocester were buried who had a Castle of their owne called Holmes hard by which now is almost vanished out of sight Neither is this towne lesse memorable for that battell whereby the house of Lancaster received a mortal wound as wherein very many of their side in the yeere 1471. were slaine more taken prisoners and divers beheaded their power so weakened and their hopes abated especially because young Prince Edward the only sonne of King Henry the sixt a very child was there put to death and in most shamefull and villanous manner his braines dashed out as that never after they came unto the field against King Edward the Fourth In which respect Iohn Leland wrote of this towne in this wise Ampla foro partis spoliis praeclara Theoci Curia sabrinae quà se committit Avona Fulget nobilium sacrÃsque recondit in antris Multorum cineres quondam inclyta corpora bello Where Av'n and Severn meete in one there stands a goodly towne For mercat great and pillage rich there wonne of much renowne Hight Tewkesburie where noble men entombed many are Now gone to mould who sometimes were redoubted Knights in warre From thence we come to Deorhirst which Bede speaketh of scituate somewhat low upon the banke of Severn wherby it hath great losses many times when he over-floweth his bounds It had in it sometimes a little Monasterie which being by the Danes overthrowne flourished againe at length under Edward the Confessor who as we read in his Testament assigned The religious place at Deorhirst and the government thereof to Saint Denis neere unto Paris Yet a little while after as William of Malmesbury saith It was but a vaine and void representation of antiquitie Over against it lieth a place halfe incompassed in with Severne called in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and Alney now the Eight that is The Iland Famous by the reason of this occurrence that when both the Englishmen and the Danes were much weakened with continuall encounters to make a finall dispatch at once of all quarrels the Fortune and destinie of both nations was committed to Edmund King of the English and to Canutus King of the Danes who in this Iland by a single combate tried it out unto whether of them the right of this Realme should belong But after they had fought and given over on even hand a peace was concluded and the kingdome divided betweene them But when streight upon it Edmund was dispatched out of the way not without suspicion of poison Canutus seized into his owne hands all England From Deorhirst Severne runneth downe by Haesfield which King Henry the Third gave to Rich. Pauncefote whose successours built a faire house heere and whose predecessours were possessed of faire lands in this Countrey before and in the Conquerours time in Wiltshire making many reaches winding in and out and forthwith dividing himselfe to make a river Iland most rich and beautifull in greene meddowes he passeth along by the head Citie of this Shire which Antonine the Emperour called CLEVVM and GLEVVM the Britans terme Caer Gloviè the English Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 we Glocester the Vulgar sort of Latinists Glovernia others Claudiocestria of the Emperour Claudius as they imagine who forsooth should give it this name when hee had bestowed heere his daughter Genissa in marriage upon Arviragus the Britan. Touching whom Iuvenall writeth thus Regem aliquem capies vel de temone Britanno Excidet Arviragus Some King sure thou shalt prisoner take in chase or battaile heat Or else Arviragus shall loose his British royall seate As though hee had begat any other daughters of his three wives besides Claudia Antonia and Octavia or as if Arviragus had beene knowne in that age whose name was never heard of before Domitians time and scarce then But let them goe that seeke to build antiquitie upon a frame grounded on lies Rather yet would I
rivelet Over the bridge whereof when the Danes with rich spoiles passed as Aethelward writeth in battail-ray the West-Saxons and the Mercians received them with an hote battaile in Woodnesfield where three of their Pettie Kings were slaine namely Heatfden Cinvil and Inguar On the same shore not much beneath standeth Barkley in the Saxon-tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 of great name for a most strong Castle a Major who is the Head Magistrate and especially for the Lords thereof descended from Robert-Fitz-Harding to whom King Henry the second gave this place and Barkely Hearnes Out of this house are branched many Knights and Gentlemen of signall note and in the reigne of King Henry the seventh flourished William Lord Barkely who was honoured by King Edward the fourth with the stile of Viscount Barkely by King Richard the third with the honour of Earle of Nottingham in regard of his mother daughter of Thomas Moubray Duke of Norfolke and Earle of Nottingham and by King Henry the Seventh with the office of Marshall of England and dignity of Marquis Barkely But for that he died issuelesse these his titles died together with him If you be willing to know by what a crafty fetch Goodwin Earle of Kent a man most deeply pregnant in devising how to do injury got the possession of this place you may read these few lines out of Wal. Mapaeus who flourished 400. yeares ago and worth the reading believe me they are Barkley neere unto Severn is a towne of 500. pounds revenew In it there was a Nunnery and the Abbesse over these Nunnes was a Noble woman and a beautifull Earle Goodwin by a cunning and subtill wile desiring not her selfe but hers as he passed that way left with her a Nephew of his a very proper and beautifull young Gentleman pretending that hee was sickly untill he returned backe Him he had given this lesson that hee should keepe his bed and in no wise seeme to be recovered untill he had got both her and as many of the Nunnes as hee could with child as they came to visite him And to the end that the young man might obtaine their favour and his owne full purpose when they visited him the Earle gave unto him pretty rings and fine girdles to bestow for favours upon them and thereby to deceive them Hee therefore being willing entred into this course of libidinous pleasure for that the way downe to hell is easie was soone taught his lessons and wisely playeth the foole in that which seemed wise in his own conceit With him they were restant all those things that the foolish virgins could wish for beauty daintie delicates riches faire speech and carefull he was now to single them alone The Devill therefore thrust out Pallas brought in Venus and made the Church of our Saviour and his Saints an accursed Temple of all Idols and the Shrine a very stewes and so of pure Lambes hee made them foule shee-wolves and of pure virgins filthy harlots Now when many of their bellies bare out big and round this youth being by this time over wearied with conquest of pleasure getteth him gone and forthwith bringeth home againe unto his Lord and Master a victorious Ensigne worthy to have the reward of iniquitie and to speake plaine relateth what was done No sooner heard he this but he hieth him to the King enformeth him how the Lady Abbesse of Barkely and her Nuns were great with child and commonly prostitute to every one that would sendeth speciall messengers of purpose for enquirie heereof proveth all that he had said Hee beggeth Berkley of the King his Lord after the Nuns were thrust out and obtained it at his hands and he left it to his wife Gueda but because she her selfe so saith Doomes-day booke would eat nothing that came out of this Manour for that the Nunnery was destroied he purchased for her Vdecester that thereof she might live so long as she made her abode at Barkley Thus wee see a good and honest mind abhorreth whatsoever is evill gotten How King Edward the second being deposed from his Kingdome through the crafty complotting and practise of his wife was made away in the Castle heere by the wicked subtiltie of Adam Bishop of Hereford who wrote unto his keepers these few words without points betweene them Edwardum occidere nolite timere bonum est that by reason of their diverse sense and construction both they might commit the murther and he also cleanly excuse himselfe I had rather you should seeke in Historians than looke for at my hands Beneath this Barkley the little river Avon closely entereth into the Sea at the head whereof scarse eight miles from the waterside upon the hils neere Alderley a small towne there are found certaine stones resembling Coccles or Periwinckles and Oysters which whether they have beene sometimes living creatures or the gamesom sports of Nature I leave it to Philosophers that hunt after natures works But Fracastorius the principall Philosopher in this our age maketh no doubt but that they were living creatures engendred in the Sea and by waters brought to the mountaines For he affirmeth that mountaines were cast up by the Sea with the driving at first of sand into heapes and hillocks also that the sea flowed there where now hilles doe rise aloft and that as the said Sea retired the hilles also were discovered But this is out of my race TRAIECTVS that is The ferry whereof Antonine the Emperour maketh mention over against Abone where they were wont to passe over Severne salt water by boate was in times past as I guesse by the name at Oldbury which is by interpâ—eâ—â—tion The Old Burgh like as we doe ferry in these daies at Aust a little towne somewhat lower This in ancient times was called Aust clive for a great craggy cliffe it is endeed mounting up a great height And verily memorable is the thing which that Mapaeus whom I spake of writeth to have beene done in this place Edward the elder saith he Lay at Austclive and Leolin Prince of Wales at Bethesley now when Leolin would not come downe to parley nor crosse Severn Edward passeth over to Leolin whom when Leolin saw and knew who he was hee cast off his rich robe for hee had prepared himselfe to sit in judgement entred the water brest-high and clasping the boat with an embrace said Most wise and sage King thy humility hath overcome my insolency and thy wisedome triumphed over my folly Come get upon my necke which I have foole as I am lifted up against thee and so shalt thou enter into that land which thy benigne mildnesse hath made thine owne this day and after he had taken him upon his shoulders hee would needs have him sit upon his roabe aforesaid and so putting his owne hands joyntly into his did him homage Upon the same shore also is situate Thornebury where are to be seene the foundations brought up above ground
sundry Families Toddington also is next adjoyning hereunto where the Tracies Gentlemen of a right worshipfull and ancient house flourished a long time who long since found the Barons of Sudley very bounteous unto them But how in the first variance about Religion William Tracy Lord of this place was proceeded against and punished after his death by digging up his corps and burning it openly for some few words put downe in his last Will and Testament which savoured as those times judged of heresie as also how another William de Tracy long before embrued his hands in the bloudy murder of Thomas Archbishop of Canterbury the Ecclesiasticall Historiographers have written at large and it is no part of my purpose to relate such like matters There is heere likewise Winchelcombe a great Towne and well inhabited wherein Kenulph the Mercian King erected an Abbay and on the same day that hee hallowed and dedicated it hee freed and sent home Edbricht a King of Kent whom he had kept before his Prisoner A man would hardly beleeve how much haunted and frequented this Abbay was long since for the Reliques of King Kenelme a childe seven yeares old whom his owne sister to get the Inheritance unto her selfe secretly made away and our forefathers registred in the ranke of holy Martyrs The Territory adjoyning hereto in times past was reckoned a County by it selfe or a Sherif-dome For we read in an old manuscript sometime belonging to the Church of Worcester in this wise Edris sirnamed Streâ—na that is The getter or gainer who first under King Aetheldred and afterwards for a good while under Cnut or Canut governed the whole Kingdome of England and ruled as Vice Roy adjoyned the Sherif-dome of Winchelcombe which was then an entire thing by it selfe unto the shire of Glocester Thence I found nothing memorable but neere the fountaine of Churn River Coberley a seat of a stem of Barkeleies so often named even from the Conquest which matched with an heire of Chandos and so came hereditarily to the Bruges progenitors to the Lords Chandos Then by Bird-lip-hill whereby we ascended unto this high Coteswold out of the vale lyeth Brimsfield which had for the L. thereof the Giffords in times past unto whom in right of marriage there came a goodly inheritance from the Cliffords and streight waies by the female heires the same fell to the Lords le Strange of Blackmer to Audleies and divers others Thus much of the places among the Woulds But under the said Woulds I have seene that notable Roman high-way by a well knowne name called the Fosse which out of Warwicke-shire commeth downe first by Lemington where it may seeme there was a Station of the Romanes by the peeces of Romane Coine ploughed there often times out of the ground some of which Edward Palmer a curious and diligent Antiquary whose Ancestors flourished heere a long-time hath of his courtesie imparted unto mee then by Stow on the Would where by reason of that high site the Windes blow cold and North-Leach bearing the name of a Riveret running hard by it and then to Circencester which the River Corinus now Churn rising among the Woulds neere Corberley very commodious for Milles passeth by into the South and so giveth it his name This was a City of as great antiquity as any other called by Ptolomee CORINIUM by Antonine the Emperour DUROCORNOVIUM that is The water Cornovium just fifteene miles from Glevum or Glocester as hee noteth The Britans named it Caer Cori and Caer Ceri the English Saxon 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 wee in these dayes Circester and Circiter The ruinate wals doe plainely shew that it was very large for by report they tooke up two miles in compasse That it was a famous place the Romane Coines the cherkerworke pavements and the engraven marble stones that now and then are there digged up which have beene broken and to no small prejudice of Antiquity doe evidently testifie As also the Port Consular wayes of the Romanes that heere did crosse one another whereof that which led to GLEVUM or Glocester is yet extant with his high rigde evident to bee seene as farre as to Bird-lip-hill and if a man looke well upon it seemes to have beene paved with stone The British Chronicles record that this City was burnt being set on fire by Sparrowes through a stratageme devised by one Gurmund I wot not what Tyrant of Africke whereupon Giraldus calleth it Passerum urbem that is the Sparrowes City and out of those Chronicles Necham writeth thus Urbs vires experta tuas Gurmunde per annos Septem This City felt for seven yeares space Thy forces Gurmund Who this Gurmund was I know not The Inhabitants shew a Mount beneath the City which they report Gurmund did cast up and yet they call it Grismunds Towre Marianus an Historian of good antiquity and credit reporteth that Ceaulin King of the West Saxons dispossessed the Britans of it what time hee had discomfited and put to flight their forces at Deorham and brought Glocester to his subjection Many yeares after this it was subject to the West Saxons for wee reade that Penda the Mercian was defeited by Cineglise King of the West Saxons when hee besieged it with a mighty Army Howbeit at length both it and the whole Territory and country came under subjection of the Mercians and so continued untill the English Monarchie Under which it sustained much sorrow and grievous calamity by the Danes and peradventure at the hand of Gurmon that Dane whom the Historiographers call both Guthrus and Gurmundus So that it may seeme he was that Gurmund which they so much speake of For certes when he raged about the yeare 879. a rablement of Danes rousted heere one whole yeare Now scarce the fourth part within the wals is inhabited the remaines beside are pasture grounds and the ruines of an Abbay built as the report goeth at first by the Saxons and newly repaired afterwards by King Henry the First for Blacke Chanons wherein I heard say that many of the family of the Barons de Sancto Amando were buried But the Castle that it had was by a Warrant from the King overthrowne in the first yeare of Henry the Third his Raigne The Townesmen raise the chiefe gaine by the Trade of Clothing and they make great reports of the singular bounty of King Richard the First towards them who endowed the Abbay with lands and as they say themselves made them Rulers of the seven Hundreds adjoyning to hold the same jurisdiction in fee farme by vertue whereof they should have the hearing and determining of causes and take unto themselves the fines perquisites amercements and other profites growing out of the trials of such causes Moreover King Henry the Fourth granted unto them certaine priviledges in consideration of their good and valiant service performed against Thomas Holland Earle of Kent late Duke of
William who enjoyed it a short time dying also without issue So by Amice the second daughter of the forenamed Earle William married to Richard de Clare Earle of Hertford this Earledome descended to Gilbert her sonne who was stiled Earle of Glocester and Hertford and mightily enriched his house by marrying one of the heires of William Marshall Earle of Pembroch His sonne and successour Richard in the beginning of the Barons warres against king Henry the Third ended his life leaving Gilbert his sonne to succeed him who powerfully and prudently swaied much in the said wars as he inclined to them or the king He obnoxious to King Edward the First surrendred his lands unto him and received them againe by marrying Joane the Kings Daughter sirnamed of Acres in the holy-Holy-land because shee was there borne to his second Wife who bare unto him Gilbert Clare last Earle of Glocester of this sirname slaine in the flower of his youth in Scotland at the battaile of Sterling in the 6. yeare of K. Edward the second Howbeit while this Gilbert the third was in minority Sir Ralph de Mont-hermer who by a secret contract had espoused his mother the Kings daughter for which he incurred the kings high displeasure and a short imprisonment but after reconciled was summoned to Parliaments by the name of Earle of Glocester and Hertford But when Gilbert was out of his minority he was summoned amongst the Barons by the name of Sir Ralph de Mont-hermer as long as he lived which I note more willingly for the rarenesse of the example After the death of Gilbert the third without children Sir Hugh Le De-Spenser commonly named Spenser the younger was by writers called Earle of Glocester because he had married the eldest sister of the said Gilbert the third But after that he was by the Queene and Nobles of the Realme hanged for hatred they bare to K. Edward the 2. whose minion he was Sir Hugh Audley who had matched in marriage with the second sister through the favour of King Edward the Third received this honour After his death King Richard the Second erected this Earledome into a Dukedome and so it had three Dukes and one Earle betweene and unto them all it prooved Equus Sejanus that is Fatall to give them their fall Thomas of Woodstocke youngest sonne to King Edward the Third was the first Duke of Glocester advanced to that high honour by the said King Richard the Second and shortly after by him subverted For when he busily plotted great matters the King tooke order that he should be conveyed secretly in all haste to Calis where with a featherbed cast upon him he was smouthered having before under his owne band confessed as it stands upon Record in the Parliament Rols that he by vertue of a Patent which hee had wrested from the King tooke upon him the Kings regall authority that he came armed into the Kings presence reviled him consulted with learned about renouncing his allegiance and devised to depose the King for which being now dead he was by authority of Parliament attainted and condemned of high Treason When hee was thus dispatched the same King conferred the Title of Earle of Glocester upon Thomas Le De-Spenser in the right of his Great Grand-mother who within a while after sped no better than his great Grand-father Sir Hugh For by King Henry the fourth he was violently displaced shamefully degraded and at Briston by the peoples fury beheaded After some yeares King Henry the Fifth created his brother Humfrey the second Duke of Glocester who stiled himselfe the first yeare of King Henry the Sixth as I have seene in an Instrument of his Humfrey by the Grace of God sonne brother and Uncle to Kings Duke of Glocester Earle of Henault Holland Zeland and Penbroch Lord of Friesland Great Chamberlaine of the Kingdome of England Protector and Defender of the same Kingdome and Church of England A man that had right well deserved of the common wealth and of learning but through the fraudulent practise and malignant envie of the Queene brought to his end at Saint Edmunds Bury The third and last Duke was Richard brother to King Edward the Fourth who afterwards having most wickedly murdred his Nephewes usurped the Kingdome by the name of King Richard the third and after two yeares lost both it and his life in a pitched field finding by experience that power gotten by wicked meanes is never long lasting Concerning this last Duke of Glocester and his first entry to the Crowne give me leave for a while to play the part of an Historiographer which I will speedily give over againe as not well able to act it When this Richard Duke of Glocester being now proclaimed Protector of the Kingdome had under his command his tender two Nephewes Edward the Fifth King of England and Richard Duke of Yorke he retriving after the Kingdome for himselfe by profuse liberality and bounty to very many by passing great gravitie tempered with singular affabilitie by deepe wisdome by ministring justice indifferently and by close devises wonne wholly to him all mens hearts but the Lawyers especially to serve his turne So shortly he effected that in the name of all the States of the Realme there should be exhibited unto him a supplication wherein they most earnestly besought him for the publike Weale of the Kingdome to take upon him the Crowne to uphold his Countrey and the common-weale now shrinking and downe falling not to suffer it to runne headlong into utter desolation by reason that both lawes of nature and the authority of positive lawes and the laudable customes and liberties of England wherein every Englishman is an inheritor were subverted and trampled under foote through civill wars rapines murthers extortions oppressions and all sorts of misery But especially ever since that King Edward the fourth his brother bewitched by sorcerie and amorous potions fell in fancie with Dame Elizabeth Greie widdow whom he married without the assent of his Nobles without solemne publication of Banes secretly in a profane place and not in the face of the Church contrary to the law of Gods Church and commendable custome of the Church of England and which was worse having before time by a precontract espoused Dame Aeleanor Butler daughter to the old Earle of Shrewsburie whereby most sure and certaine it was that the foresaid matrimony was unlawfull and therewith the children of them begotten illegitimate and so unable to inherite or claime the Crowne Moreover considering that George Duke of Clarence the second brother of King Edward the Fourth was by authority of Parliament convicted and attainted of high treason thereupon his children disabled and debarred from all right succession evident it was to every man that Richard himselfe remained the sole and undoubted heire to the Crowne Of whom they assured themselves that being borne in England he would seriously provide for the good of England neither could they make any doubt of his
Chamberlaine to King Richard the Third attainted by King Henry the Seventh and slaine in the battaile at Stoke in the quarrell of Lambert that Counterfeit Prince whose sister Fridiswid was Grandmother to Henry the first Lord Norris Hence Windrush hodling on his course watereth Whitney an ancient Towne and before the Normans daies belonging to the Bishops of Winchester to which adjoyneth Coges the chiefe place of the Barony of Arsic the Lords whereof branched out of the family of the Earles of Oxford are utterly extinguished many yeeres agoe Neere unto this the Forest of Witchwood beareth a great breadth and in time past spread farre wider For King Richard the Third disforested the great Territory of Witchwood betweene Woodstocke and Brightstow which Edward the Fourth made to be a Forest as Iohn Rosse of Warwicke witnesseth Isis having received Windrush passeth downe to Einsham in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 a Manour in times past of the Kings seated among most pleasant medowes which Cuthwulfe the Saxon was the first that tooke from the Britans whom he had hereabout vanquished and long after Aethelmar a Nobleman beautified it with an Abbay the which Aethelred King of England in the yeere of Salvation 1005. confirmed to the Benedictine Monkes and in his confirmation signed the priviledge of the liberty thereof I speake out of the very originall grant as it was written with the signe of the sacred Crosse but now is turned into a private dwelling house and acknowledgeth the Earle of Derby Lord thereof Beneath this Evenlode a little river arising likewise out of Cotteswald speedeth him into Isis which riveret in the very border of the Shire passeth by an ancient Monument standing not farre from his banke to wit certaine huge stones placed in a round circle the common people usually call them Rolle-rich-stones and dreameth that they were sometimes men by a wonderfull Metamorphosis turned into hard stones The draught of them such as it is portrayed long since heere I represent unto your view For without all forme and shape they bee unequall and by long continuance of time much impaired The highest of them all which without the circle looketh into the earth they use to call The King because hee should have beene King of England forsooth if hee had once seene Long Compton a little Towne so called lying beneath and which a man if he goe some few paces forward may see other five standing at the other side touching as it were one another they imagine to have been knights mounted on horse backe and the rest the Army But loe the foresaid Portraiture These would I verily thinke to have beene the Monument of some Victory and haply erected by Rollo the Dane who afterwards conquered Normandie For what time as he with his Danes and Normans troubled England with depredations we read that the Danes joined battaile with the English thereby at Hoche Norton and afterwards fought a second time at Scier stane in Huiccia which also I would deeme to be that Mere-stone standing hard by for a land Marke and parting foure shires For so much doth that Saxon word Scier-stane most plainly import Certainly in an Exchequer booke the Towne adjacent is called Rollen-drich where as it is there specified Turstan le Dispenser held land by Serjeanty of the Kings Dispensary that is to be the Kings Steward As for that Hoch-Norton which I spake of before for the rusticall behaviour of the Inhabitants in the age afore going it grew to be a proverbe when folke would say of one rudely demeaning himselfe and unmaneâ—ly after an Hoggish kinde that hee was borne at Hocknorton This place for no one thing was more famous in old time than for the woefull slaughter of the Englishmen in a foughten field against the Danes under the Raigne of King Edward the Elder Afterwards it became the seat of the Barony of the D' Oilies an honourable and ancient Family of the Norman race of whom the first that came into England was Robert de Oily who for his good and valiant service received of William Conquerour this Towne and many faire possessions whereof hee gave certaine to his sworne brother Roger Ivery which were called the Barony of Saint Valeric But when the said Robert departed this life without issue male his brother Niele succeeded him therein whose sonne Robert the second was founder of Osney Abbay But at length the daughter and heire generall of this house D' Oily was married to Henry Earle of Warwicke and she bare unto him Thomas Earle of Warwicke who dyed without issue in the Raigne of Henry the Third and Margaret who deceased likewise without children abeit shee had two husbands John Marescall and John de Plessetis both of them Earles of Warwicke But then that I may speake in the very words of the Charter of the Grant King Henry the Third granted Hoch-norton and Cudlington unto John de Plessetis which were in times past the possessions of Henry D'Oily and which after the decease of Margaret wife sometime to the foresaid John Earle of Warwicke fell into the kings hand as an Escheat of Normans lands To have and to hold untill the lands of England and Normandy were common Howbeit out of this ancient and famous stocke there remaineth at this day a family of D' Oilies in this shire Evenlode passeth by no memorable thing else but La Bruer now Bruern sometime an Abbay of white Monks and after he hath runne a good long course taketh to him a Brooke neere unto which standeth Woodstocke in the English Saxon language 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is A woody place where King Etheldred in times past held an assembly of the States of the Kingdome and enacted Lawes Heere is one of the Kings houses full of State and magnificence built by King Henry the First who adjoyned also thereunto a very large Parke compassed round about with a stone wall which John Rosse writeth to have beene the first Parke in England although we read once or twise even in Doomesday Booke these words Parcus silvestris bestiarum in other places In which sense old Varro useth the word Parcus which some thinke to be but a new word But since that Parkes are growne to such a number that there bee more of them in England than are to be found in all Christendome beside so much were our Ancestours ravished with an extraordinary delight of hunting Our Historians report that King Henry the Second being enamoured upon Rosamund Clifford a Damosell so faire so comely and well favoured without comparison that her beauty did put all other women out of the Princes minde in so much as now shee was termed Rosa mundi that is The Rose of the World and for to hide her out of the sight of his jealous Juno the Queene he built a Labyrinth in this house with many inexplicable windings backward and forward Which notwithstanding is no where to be seene at this day The Towne
and Caer Vember in the British language and that I wote not what Vortigerns and Memprices built it But what ever it was in the Britans time the English Saxons called it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and altogether in the same signification that the Grecians terme their Bosphori and the Germans their Ochen-furt upon Odera to wit of the fourd of Oxen in which sense it is named of our Britans in Wales at this day Rhyd-ychen And yet Leland grounding upon a probable conjecture deriveth the name from the River Ouse called in Latine Isis and supposeth that it hath beene named Ousford considering that the River Eights or Islands which Isis scattereth hereabout bee called Ousney Sage antiquity as wee read in our Chronicles consecrated this Citty even in the British age unto the Muses whom from Greeke-lad which is a small Towne at this day in Wilt-shire they translated hither as unto a more fruitefull Plant-plot For thus writeth Alexander Necham The skill of Civill Law Italy challengeth to it selfe but for Heavenly Writ or Holy Scripture the liberall Sciences also do prove that the Citty of Paris is to bee preferred before all others Moreover according to the Prophesie of Merline Wisedome and Learning flourished at Oxford which in due time was to passe over into the parts of Ireland But when during the English Saxons age next ensuing there was nothing but continuall wasting and rasing of Townes and Citties according to the sway and current of those dayes it sustained in part the common calamity of that time and for a great while was frequented onely for the reliques of Frideswide who for the chastity and integrity of her life was canonized a Saint upon this occasion especially for that by a solemne vow shee had wholly devoted her selfe unto the Service of GOD and Prince Algar whiles he came a wooing unto her was miraculously as writers say stricken blinde This Frideswide as wee reade in William of Malmesbury triumphing for her virginity erected here a Monastery into which when certaine Danes adjudged to die in King Etheldreds time fled for refuge as to a Sanctuary they were all burned with the buildings such was the unsatiable anger of the Englishmen against them But soone after when the King repented this Act the Sanctuary was cleansed the Monastery reedified the old Lands restored new Possessions added and at length the place was given by Roger Bishop of Salisbury unto a Chanon excellently well learned who there presented unto GOD many such Chanons who should live regularly in their Order But leaving these matters let us returne unto the University When the tempestuous Danish stormes were meetely well blowne ouer Aelfred that most devout and Godly King recalled the long banished Muses unto their owne Sacred Chancells and built three Colledges one for Grammarians a second for Philosophers and a third for Divines But this you may more plainely understand out of these words in old Annales of the new Abbey of Winchester In the yeare of Christs Incarnation * 806. and in the second yeare of Saint Grimbald his comming into England was the Vniversity of OXFORD begunne The first Regents in the same and Readers in the Divinity Schoole were Saint Neoth an Abbat and besides a worthy Teacher in Divinity and holy Grimbald a right excellent Professour of the most sweete written Word of Holy Scripture But in Grammar and Rhetoricke the Regent was Asserius a Monke in the skill of Literature passing well learned In Logicke Musicke and Arithmeticke the Reader was John a Monke of the Church of Saint Davids In Geometry and Astronomy reade John a Monke also and Companion of Saint Grimbald a Man of a passing quicke witte and right learned every way At which Lectures was present that most glorious and invincible King Aelfred whose memoriall in every Mans mouth shall bee as sweete as honie But presently after as wee reade in a very good manuscript coppy of the sayd Asserius who at the same time professed learning here There arose a most dangerous and pernicious dissention at Oxford betweene Grimbald and these great Clerkes whom hee brought thither with him on the one side and those old Schoole-men whom hee there found on the other side who upon his comming refused altogether to embrace the Rules Orders and Formes of reading prescribed and begunne by him For three yeares space the variance and discord betweene them was not great howbeit there lurked a secret hatred fostered and festered among them which brake out afterwards in most grievous and bitter manner and was most evident For the appeasing whereof that most Invincible King Aelfred being by a message and complaint from Grimbald certified of that discord went to OXFORD to determine and end this controversie Where also himselfe in Person tooke exceeding great paines in giving Audience to the quarrels and complaints of both sides Now the maine substance of all the contention stood upon this point Those old Schoole-men hotly avouched that before Grimbalds comming to OXFORD Learning generally flourished there although the Schollers and Students were fewer then in number than in former times by reason that the most of them through the cruelty and tyranny of Painims were expelled Moreover they proved and declared and that by the undoubted testimony of old Chronicles that the Orders and Ordinances of that place were made and established by certaine Godly and learned men as namely Gildas of holy memory Melkin Ninnius Kentigern and others who all of them studied and followed their books there untill they were aged persons managing and governing all things there in happy peace and concord also that S. German came to Oxford and abode there halfe a yeare what time as he travelled through Britan with a purpose to preach against the Pelagian heresies who wonderous well allowed of their former Orders and Ordinances This Noble King with incredible and unexampled humility heard both parts most diligently exhorting them in earnest wise enterlacing godly and wholsome admonitions to keepe mutuall society and concord one with another And so the King departed with this minde hoping they would all of both sides obey his counsell and embrace his orders But Grymbald taking this unkindely and to the heart forthwith went his wayes to Winchester Abbay newly founded by Aelfred Shortly after hee caused his owne Tombe to be translated to Winchester wherein he purposed after hee had runne his race in this life that his bones should bee bestowed in an arched Vault made under the Chancell of Saint Peters Church in Oxford Which Church verily the same Grymbald had built from the very foundation out of the ground with stone most curiously wrought and polished Within some years after this new revived felicity there ensued divers disturbances from the Danes and afterward followed one or two calamities For the Danes in the reigne of Etheldred by way of robbery and foule worke and havocke there and streight after Herald surnamed Light foote raged against it with such barbarous
that the knowledge of those tongues might by effectuall instruction be throughly learned And that Catholicke men having sufficient knowledge in those tongues should bee chosen twaine skilfull in every of those tongues For those who were to bee Professours in Oxford The same Councell ordained That the Prelats of England Scotland Ireland and Wales the Monasteries also the Chapters the Covents the Colledges exempt and not exempt and Persons of Churches should provide competent stipends Out of these words may bee observed both that Oxford was the chiefe place of Studies in England Scotland Ireland and Wales and also that those Schooles which we now adayes doe call Academies and Universities were aptly in old time named Studies as S. Hierom tearmed the Schooles of Gaul Studia Florentissima that is most flourishing Studies And as for the name of Vniversity it was taken up about the time of King Henry the Third for a Publike Schoole and if I bee not deceived in mine owne observations it was then in use not for the place but for the very body and society of Students as we reade in bookes of that age Vniversitas Magistrorum Oxoniae Vniversitas Magistrorum Cantabrigiae that is The Vniversity of Masters of Oxford c. But happily this may seeme beside my Text. Now by this time good and bountifull Patrons began to furnish the Citty within and the Suburbs without with most stately Colledges Halls and Schools and to endow them also with large Revenewes For the greatest part of the Vniversity was beforetime in the Suburbs without the North-gate In the reigne of King Henry the third Iohn Balliol of Barnards Castle in the Bishopricke of Durham who died in the yeere 1269. the father of Balliol King of Scots founded Balliol Colledge and so named it and streight after Walter Merton Bishop of Rochester translated the Colledge which hee had built in Surrey to Oxford in the yeere 1274. enriched it with Lands and Possessions naming it The house of Schollers of Merton but now it is called Merton Colledge And these two were the first endowed Colledges for Students in Christendome William Archdeacon of Durham repaired and enlarged with new building that worke of King Aelfred which now they call Vniversity Colledge At which time the Students for that they entertained somewhat coursely Otto the Popes Legate or Horse-leach rather sent out to sucke the English Clergies blood were excommunicate and with all indignities shamefully handled And in those dayes as Armachanus writeth there were counted here thirty thousand Students Under King Edward the Second Walter Stapledon Bishop of Exceter founded Exceter Colledge and Hart Hall and the King himselfe in imitation of him built the Colledge commonly called Oriall and S. Mary Hall At which time a convert Jew read an Hebrew Lecture here unto whom for a Stipend every one of the Clergy of Oxford for every Marke of his Ecclesiasticall living contributed a penny Afterward Queene Philip wife to King Edward the Third built Queenes Colledge and Simon Islip Archbishop of Canterbury Canterbury Colledge The Students then having the world at will and all things falling out to their hearts desire became insolent and being divided into factions under the names of Northren and Southren men strucke up the Alarum to intestine and unreasonable tumults among themselves Whereupon the Northren faction went their wayes to Stanford and beganne there to set up Schooles But some few yeeres after when Gods favour shining more lightsomely had scattered away the clouds of contention they returned from Stanford recalled by Proclamation directed to the High-sheriffe of Lincolneshire upon penalty to forfeit their bookes and the Kings displeasure And then it was ordained that no Oxford man should professe at Stanford to any prejudice or hinderance of Oxford Shortly after William Wickham Bishop of Winchester founded a magnificent Colledge which they call New-Colledge into which out of another Colledge of his at Winchester the best wits are yeerely transplanted And hee about the same by the tract of the Citty wall built a faire high wall embatled and turrited Also Richard Angervill Bishop of Durham surnamed Philobiblos that is Love booke furnished a Library for the publike use of Students His Successour Thomas Hatfield laied the foundation of Durham Colledge for Durham Monkes and Richard Fleming Bishop of Lincolne founded likewise Lincolne Colledge Also at the same time the Monkes of the order of Saint Bennet by a Chapter held among them laid their monies together and encreased Glocester Hall built before by I. Lord Gifford of Brimsfield for Monkes of Glocester wherein one or two Monkes out of every Covent of Benedictine Monkes were maintained at study who afterwards should professe good letters in their Abbaies unto which Glocester Hall Nicholas Wadham of Merifeld in the County of Somerset hath assigned a faire portion of lands and mony for the propagation of Religion and Learning which I note incidently by way of congratulation to our Age that there are yet some who graciously respect the advancement of good Learning About that time not to speake of the Chanons of Saint Frideswide and Osney or the Cistertian Monkes of Reilew there were erected fower faire Frieries and other religious houses where flourished also many profound Learned men In the age ensuing when Henry the Fifth reigned Henry Chicheley Archbishop of Canterbury built two and those very faire Colledges the one dedicated to the memory of All Soules and the other to Saint Bernard And there passed not many yeeres betweene when William Wainflet Bishop of Winchester founded Mary Magdalen Colledge for building rare and excellent for sight commodious and for walkes passing pleasant And at the very same time was built the Divinity Schoole so fine a peece of elegant worke that this of Xeuxis may justly bee ingraven upon it Invisurum facilius aliquem quà m imitaturum that is Sooner will one envy mee then set such another by me And Humfrey that good Duke of Glocester a singular Patron and a respective lover of learning encreased the Library over it with an hundred twenty nine most select Manuscript bookes which at his great charges he procured out of Italy But such was the private avarice of some in the giddy time of K. Edward the Sixt that they for small gaine envied the use thereof to Posterity Yet now againe God blesse and prosper it Sir Thomas Bodley a right worshipfull knight and a most worthy Nource-son of this Vniversity furnished richly in the same place a new Library with the best books of exquisite choice from all parts with great charges and studious care never sufficiently commended Whereby the Vniversity may once againe have a publike Store-house of knowledge and learning and himselfe deserveth the Glory that may flourish freshly in the memory of all Eternity And whereas by an ancient custome of the wisest men those were wont to be dedicated within such Libraries in gold silver or brasse by whose care they were
the Pestane Rose surpasse Her eyes gemmes of great cost Her haire the Lilies fresh and white Her necke the hoary frost And as she runnes her haire all wet She doth behind her cast Which waving thus she kembeth slick And layeth even at last Lo Isis sudainly out of The Waves so mild doth shew His lovely face his eies withall Glitter with golden hew As they from dropping visage send Their beames the fields throughout Whiles one anothers neck with armes Displayd they clip about Full sweetly he doth Tama kisse Whom he hath wish'd so long A thousand kisses twixt them twain Doe now resound among With clasping close their armes wax pale Their lips their hearts linke fast To nuptiall chamber thus they both Jointly descend at last Where CONCORD with religious FAITH Together both ymet Knit up the knot of wedlock sure With words in forme yset And now the pipes of thyrled box On every side resound The water Nymphes the Dryades The wanton Satyrs round About the place disport and dance The measures cunningly Whiles on the grasse they foote it fine In rounds as merily The Birds heerewith in every wood Melodiously doe sing And ECHO her redoubled notes In mirth strives forth to ring All things now laugh the fields rejoice The CVPIDS as they fly Amid the aire on bridled birds Clap hands right pleasantly BRITONA hand-fast-maker shee All clad in Laurell green Play 's on the Harp what ever acts Our auncestours have seene Shee sings how BRITANNY from all The world divided was When Nereus with victorious Sea Through cloven rocks did passe And why it was that Hercules When he arrived heere Upon our coast and tasted once The mudlesse TAMIS cleere Did Neptun's sonne high Albion Vanquish in bloudy fight And with an haile-like storme of stones Kild him in field out-right And when Vlysses hither came What Altars sacred were By him How Brute with Corinae His trusty friend and fere Went foorth into the Western parts And how that Caesar he When he had sought and found turn'd back With feare from Britannie And after some few verses interposed This said then Tame and Isis both In love and name both one Hight Tamisis more joy's therein And hastning to be gone Ariseth up and leaping out With hastfull hot desire Advanceth forth his streame and seekes The Ocean main his sire From Dorchester Tamis goeth to Benson in old time Bensingston which Marian calleth Villam Regiam that is The Kings towne and reporteth That Ceaulin tooke it from the Britans in the yeere of our Lord 572. and that the West-Saxons kept the possession of it 200. yeeres after For then Offa the King of Mercians thinking it would be for his commoditie and honor both that they should have nothing on this side the river wonne it and subjected it to him But at this day it goeth for a village onely and hath a house of the Kings hard by sometime a faire place but now running exceedingly to ruine as being not very wholsome by reason of the foggy aire and mists arising from a standing water adjoyning This house of certaine Elmes called Ewelme but commonly New-Elme was built by William de la pole Duke of Suffolke who having taken to Wife Alice the onely daughter of Thomas Chaucer had by her faire lands heereabout as elsewhere and beside this house he erected also a faire Church wherein the said Alice lieth buried and a proper Hospitall But Iohn Earle of Lincolne his Grand child who by King Richard the Third had beene declared heire apparent to the Crowne overthrew in some sort the happie estate of this Family For whiles he plotted and projected seditiously to rebell against King Henry the seventh he was attainted and slaine in the battell at Stoke and Edmund his brother being for like cause attainted the possessions became câ—owne-Câ—owne-land Then King Henrie the Eighth made this house an Honour by laying unto it certaine Manours and Wallingford among others which before had a long time belonged unto the Dukes of Cornewall The Tamis from hence having fetched a great compasse about windeth in manner backe againe into himselfe enclosing within it the Hundred of Henley mounting high with Hills and beset with thicke Woods which some doe thinke the ANCALITES that yeelded themselves unto Caesars protection did inhabite Here is â—ix-brâ—nd and Stonor ancient Possessions of the Families of Stonores who since the time of King Edward the Third when Sir Iohn Stonore was chiefe Justice in the Common-pleas flourished with great alliance and faire revenues untill they were transferred by an Heire generall to Sir Adrian Fortescue unhappily attainted whose daughter Heire to her mother was married to the first Baron Wenâ—worth Next neighbour hereunto is Pus-hull which the Family of D'oily held by yeelding yeerely to the King a Table-cloth of three shillings price or three shillings for all service Under this Southward standeth Greies Rotherfield a house which in times past Walter Grey the Archbishop of Yorke gave freely unto William Grey his Nephew the Inheritance whereof by the Baron of D'Eincourt was devolved upon the Lovels Now it is the dwelling house of Sir William Knolles Treasurer of the Kings House whom Iames our King for his faithfull service performed unto Queene Elizabeth and to be performed unto himselfe advanced to the honourable title of Baron Knolles of Rotherfield Nere unto it Henley upon Tamis in old time called Hanleganz sheweth it selfe in the very confines of the shires The Inhabitants whereof be for the most part Watermen who make their chiefest gaine by carrying downe in their Barges wood and Corne to London neither can it make report of any greater antiquity than that in times past the Molinies were Lords thereof from whom by the Hungerfords who procured unto the towne of King Henry the Sixth the liberty of holding two faires it came by right of Inheritance unto the honourable house of the Hastings And where now the Tamis hath a wooden Bridge over it they say in times past there stood one of stone arched But whether this Bridge were here that Dio writeth the Romans passed over when they pursued the Britans along this tract who below had swom over the river hard it is for a man to say From Henley the Chiltern-bils hold on with a continued ridge running Northward and divide this Country from Buckinghamshire at the foote whereof stand many small townes among which these two are of greatest note Watlington a little mercate towne belonging sometime to Robert D' Oily and Shirburne a prety Castle of the Quatremans in times past but now the habitation of the Chamberlans descended out of the house of the Earles of Tankervill who having beene long agoe Chamberlains of Normandy their Posterity relinquishing that old name of Tankervills became surnamed Chamberlans of the Office which their ancestours bare To omit Edgar Algar and other English Saxons officiall Earles of Oxford Since after the Conquest the title of
tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the other lying under it North-ward is named the Vale. Chiltern got that name according to the very nature of the soile of Chalky marle which the ancient English men termed Cylt or Chilt For all of it mounteth aloft with whitish hills standing upon a mixt earth of Clay and Chalke clad with groves and woods wherein is much Beech and it was altogether unpassable in times past by reason of trees untill that Leofstane Abbot of Saint Albans did cut them downe because they yeelded a place of refuge for theeves In it where the Tamis glideth at the foote of those hills with a winding course standeth Marlow a prety towne of no meane credite taking name of the said Chalke commonly tearmed Marle which being spred upon Corne ground eaten out of heart with long tillage doth quicken the same againe so as that after one yeeres rest it never lieth fallow but yeeldeth againe unto the Husband-man his seed in plentifull measure Nere unto this a rill sheaddeth it selfe in the Tamis making way through low places and where it turneth hath a towne upon it called High Wickham or Wicombe rather which happily thereof tooke the name considering that the German Saxons terme any winding reach of river and sea a Wicke and Combe a low Valle. And very many places wee meet withall in England named in that respect This towne for largenesse and faire building is equall to the greatest townes in this shire and in that it hath a Major for the Head-Magistrate worthily to bee preferred before the rest About the time of the Normans comming in Wigod of Wallengford was Lord both of the Burgh of Wicomb and also of the Villa forinseca I speake according to the Record of the ancient Inquisition that is The out Hamlet or Bery After whose death King Henry the first laid it unto the Crowne But King John at the length divided the said Out Berry betweene Robert de Vi-paâ—â—t and Alane Basset North off Wicomb mounteth up aloft the highest place of this Region and thereof it retaineth still the British name Pen. For the head or eminent top of a thing is with them called Pen and hence it is that the Pennine Alpes the Apâ—â—nine and many Mountaines among us tooke their names Nere unto this Wickham or Wicomb is Bradenham seated in a very commodious and wholsome place which now is become the principall habitation of the Barons of Windesor concerning whom I have already spoken in Barke-shire ever since that in the memory of our fathers William Lord Windesor seated himselfe here whose father S. Andrew descended from the old stemme of ancient Barons King Henry the Eighth dignified with the honour of Baron Windesor Tamis having entertained the said Riâ—â— commeth downe with a rolling streame by Aelan famous for a Colledge the nourâ—e garden as it were or plant plot of good letters which that most vertuous and godly Prince K. Henry the Sixt as I have already said first founded And some few miles forward the river Cole entreth into Tamis which running here betweene Buckinghamshire and Middlesexe giveth name unto the towne Colbroke which was that PONTES whereof Antonine the Emperour maketh mention as the distance on both sides from Wallingford and London doth witnesse Neither is there any other place else in the way that leadeth from Wallingford to London to which the name of Pontes that is Bridges might be more fitly applied For this Cole is here parted into foure channels over which stand as many bridges for the commodity of passengers whereof that it tooke this name the very signification of the word doth plainly shew Like as Gephyrae a towne in Boâ—etia and another Pontes in France where the County of Ponthieu our Tunbridg and others are so called of Bridges This County of Ponthieu to note so much by the way descended to the Kings of England in the right of Aeleanor the wife of King Edward the First who by her mothers right was sole and entire Heire of the same Cole by these severall partitions of his streames compasseth in certaine pleasant Ilands into which the Danes fled in the yeere of our Lord 894. when Aelfred preassed hard upon them and there by the benefit of the place defended themselves untill the English for want of provisions were forced to breake up Siege and leave them At this divorce and division of the waters Eure or Ever a little Towne sheweth it selfe which when K. Richard the First had given unto Sir Robert Fitz-Roger Lord of Clavering his younger sonnes of this place assumed their surname to wit Hugh from whom the Barons of Eure and Robert from whom the Family of Eure in Axolme is sprung and spred Farther within Land are these places which I may not passe over Burnham better knowne by the Hodengs Lord Huntercombs and Scudamores who were Lords thereof and of Beacons-field successively by inheritance than by it selfe Stoke Pogeis so called of the Lords thereof in old time named de Pogeis and from them hereditarily devolved upon the Hastings of whose race Edward Baron Hastings of Loughborrow founded here an Hospitall for poore people making himselfe one of their society and his nephew by the brother Henry Earle of Huntingdon built a very faire house and Fernham the very same if I bee not deceived which was called Fernham Roiall and which in times past the Barons Furnivall held by service of finding their Soveraigne Lord the King upon the day of his Coronation a glove for his right hand and to support the Kings right arme the same day all the while hee holdeth the regaâ—â— Verge or Scepter in his hand From the Furnivalls it came by the daughter of Thomas Nevill unto the Talbots Earles of Shrewsbury who although by exchange they surrendred up this Manour unto King Henry the Eight yet they reserved this honourable Office still to them and their Heires for ever This Cole carrieth downe with him another riveret also which somewhat above from the West sheddeth it selfe into it upon it we saw first Missenden where stood a religious House that acknowledged the D'Ollies their founders and certaine Gentlemen surnamed De Missenden their especiall benefactours upon a vow for escaping a ship-wracke And then in the Vale Amersham in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which vaunted it selfe not for faire buildings nor multitude of inhabitants but for their late Lord Frâ—ncis Russeâ—â— Earle of Bedford who being the expresse paterne of true Piety and noblenesse lived most dearely beloved of all good men But the principall seate of the Earles of Bedford is called Cheineis standing more East-ward where both Iohn the first Earle out of this Family and that noble Francis his sonne lye entombed together Unto which adjoyneth on the one side Latimers so named of the Lords thereof I meane those more ancient Barons Latimer before time called Islehamsted where Sir Edwin Sands Knight who
tooke to wife the onely daughter of the Baron Sands dwelt while he lived in a very faire house and on the other Chesham Bois where and at Draiton Beauchamp the Family of Cheneis hath anciently flourished From hence I passed scarse three miles North-ward but I came to the ridge of Chilturne-hils which divideth the whole region a crosse from the South-west to the North-east passing by many villages and small townes among which that of greatest note is Hamden which gave name to an ancient and well spred Family in these parts In the very East corner of these hils Ashridge a retiring house sometime of the kings standeth upon an ascent where Edmund Earle of Cornewall sonne to Richard king of the Romans founded a religious house for a new Order of religious men in those daies called Bon Hommes by him first brought into England Who professed the rule of S. Augustine and were according to the manner of the Order of the Eremitans clad in skie coloured garments From this ridge or edge of the Hils there is a large prospect every way downe into the Vale beneath which I said was the other part of the Shire This almost throughout is a plaine Champion standing likewise upon a clay-soile stiffe tough and fruitfull with pasture medowes most plentifull of grasse and fodder feeding innumerable flockes of sheepe whose soft and passing fine fleeces are in request even as farre as to the Turkish Nations in Asia But it is all naked and bare of woods unlesse it bee on the West side where among others is Bernewood whose Forresters surnamed de Borstall were famous in former times About this Forrest the yeare after Christs Nativity 914. the Danes furiously raged and then happily it was that the ancient Burgh was destroied whose antiquity Romane coined peeces of money there found doe testifie which afterwards became the royall house of King Edward the Confessour But now it is a Country Village and in stead of Buri-Hill they call it short Brill In this Vale although it be exceeding full of Townes and Villages yet very few of them are memorable and those either upon the River Tame or Vsa that is Ouse Not far from Tame which watereth the South part of the Vale upon the rising of a prety hill standeth a faire Mercat Towne well occupied and compassed about with many most pleasant greene medowes and pastures commonly called Ailesbury of which the whole Vale is termed the Vale of Ailesbury The Engish-Saxons called it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 when Cuthwulf the Saxon won it in the yeare of our Lord 572. For the Brittish name whereby it was knowne before in continuance of time is utterly lost Famous it hath beene in times past especially for Ediths sake there fostered who having obtained of her Father â—rewald this Towne for her Dowry forthwith by persuasion of the religious people bad the world and her husband farewell and taking her selfe to the Vale for opinion of holinesse and devotion in that most pregnant and fruitfull age of Saints became wonderfully renowned even as farre as to working of miracles together with her sister Eadburg of whose name there is a little Towne among the Hils as yet called Eadburton In the time of King William the Conquerour it was a Manour of the Kings and certaine yard-yard-lands were here given by the King with this condition that the Possessour or Holder thereof marke ye nice and dainty ones should finde 〈◊〉 for the Kings bed when the King came thither In the Raigne of Edward the First certaine Gentlemen named de Ailesbury who bare for their Armes Aâ—ure a Crosse Argent were by report but I know not how truely the Lords thereof certaine it is they were in those daies men of the better sort and of great good note and such as by marriage with the daughter and heire of the Caihaignes who were in times past Lords of Meddleton Caihaignes came to a faire and goodly inheritance which at last by heires generall came to the Chaworths the Staffords of Graâ—ton c. But now the greatest name and reputation that it hath is by grazing and feeding of Cattaile Very much beholden also it is unto Justice Baldwin who not onely adorned it with publique aedifices but also made a passing faire causey to it where the way was very deepe and cumbersome for three miles or thereabout in length Heere round about in every side flockes of sheepe pasture most plenteously in mighty numbers loden with fleeces to the great gaine and commodity of their Masters especially at Quarendon a Lordship belonging to Sir Henry Lee an honourable Knight of the Order of the Garter Eythorp which sometime was the Dinhams and now the Dormâ—â—s Knights and also Winchindon appertaining to the Family of the Godwins Knights likewise c. Lower wee meet with nothing memorable upon Tame unlesse Cheardesley be as many thinke it is the place which was called in the Saxon-tongue Cerdick-flega of Cerdic the Saxon who fought a very sharpe and bloudy battaile there with the Britans Neere unto it standeth Credendon now Crendon which was the Capitall house belonging to the Honour of Giffard for so were those lands termed which fell unto Walter Giffard at the Conquest of England whose sonne the second Earle of Buckingham and Ermingard his wife built the Abbay of Noteley thereby in the yeare 1112. But his cozen Hugh de Bolebec from whom by the females the Earles of Oxford are descended held of him no small possessions in these parts And the ruines of Bolebec Castle are seene hard by within the Parish of Whitchurch Neere unto which is Ascot the principall Mansion house of the Dormers from whence descended the Dutches of Feria in Spaine and others of noble note Usa or Ouse in times past Isa and the second Isis which with a soft and still streame passeth through the North part of this Province arising in Northampton-shire and presently from his head when being yet but small he closely entereth into this Shire runneth beside Bittlesden which Robert de Mapertshall Lord of the place gave unto Osbert de Clinton Chamberlaine to King Henry the First a powerfull Courtier that he might not be punished as a Fellon for stealing away one of the Kings Hounds But he restored it unto him againe with a cozin of his in marriage yet lost he the same in the hot broile of the civill war under King Stephen and Ernald Bois by way of a benefit and courtesie received it at the hands of Robert Earle of Leicester And hee in the yeare of Christ 1127. founded there a little Monastery for the Cistertien Monks Then Ouse saluteth Buckingham the Shire Towne which as Marian saith King Edward the elder in the yeare of our Lord 915. fortified with a Rampire and Sconces on both bankes against the Invasions and assaults of the Danes Yet was it of no great name as it may seeme in the
for that among other matters hee had consulted with a Wizard about succession of the Crowne was beheaded a noble man exceeding much missed and lamented of good men Which when the Emperour Charles the fifth heard he said as it is written in his life That a Butchers dogge had devoured the fairest Bucke in all England alluding to the name Buckingham and the said Cardinall who was a Butchers sonne Ever since which time the splendour of this most noble family hath so decaied and faded that there remaineth to their posterity the bare title onely of Barons of Stafford whereas they were stiled before Dukes of Buckingham Earles of Stafford Hereford Northampton and Perth Lords of Brecknock Kimbalton and Tunbridge There are reckoned in this small Shire Parishes 185. BEDFORD Comitatus olim pars CATHIFVCLANORVM BEDFORD-SHIRE BEDFORD-SHIRE is one of the three Counties which we said the Cattieuchlani inhabited On the East-side and the South it joyneth to Cambridge-shire and Hertford-shire on the West to Buckingham-shire and on the North to Northamton-shire and Huntingdon-shire and by the river OVSE crossing over it is divided into two parts The North-side thereof is the more fruitâ—ull of the twaine and more woody the other toward the South which is the greater standeth upon a leaner soile but not altogether unfertile For it yeeldeth foorth aboundantly full white and bigge Barley In the mids it is somewhat thicke of woods but Eastward more drie ground and bare of wood Ouse where it entereth into this shire first visiteth Turvy the Lord Mordants house who are beholden to King Henry the Eighth for their Barony For he created Iohn Mordant a wise and prudent man who had wedded the daughter and one of the coheires of H. Vere of Addington Baron Mordant then runneth it by Harwood a Village in old time called Hareleswood where Sampson surnamed Fortis founded a Nunnery and where in the yeere of our redemption 1399. a little before those troubles and civill broiles wherewith England a long time was rent in peeces this river stood still and by reason that the waters gave backe on both sides men might passe on foote within the very chanell for three miles together not without wondering of all that saw it who tooke it as a plaine presage of the division ensuing Afterward it passeth by Odill or Woodhill sometimes Wahull which had his Lords surnamed also De Wahul men of ancient Nobility whose Barony consisted of thirty knights fees in divers countries and had here their Castle which is now hereditarily descended to Sir R. Chetwood knight as the inheritance of the Chetwoods came formerly to the Wahuls From hence Ouse no lesse full of crooked crankes and windings than Maeander it selfe goeth by Bletnesho commonly called Bletso the residence in times past of the Pateshuls after of the Beauchamps and now of the Honourable family of S. Iohn which long since by their valour attained unto very large and goodly possessions in Glamorgan-shire and in our daies through the favor of Q. Elizabeth of happy memory unto the dignity of Barons when she created Sir Oliver the second Baron of her creation Lord S. Iohn of Bletnesho unto whom it came by Margaret Beauchamp an inheritrice wedded first to Sir Oliver S. Iohn from whose these Barons derive their pedigree and secondly to Iohn Duke of Somerset unto whom she bare the Lady Margaret Countesse of Richmond a Lady most vertuous and alwaies to be remembred with praises from whose loines the late Kings and Queenes of England are descended From hence Ouse hastneth by Brumham a seat of the Dives of very ancient parentage in these parts to Bedford in the Saxon-tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the principall towne and whereof the Shire also taketh name and cutteth it so through the middest that it might seeme to be two severall townes but that a stone bridge joyneth them together A towne to be commended more for the pleasant situation and ancientry thereof then for beauty or largenesse although a man may tell five Churches in it That it was Antonines LACTODORVM I dare not as others doe affirme considering that it standeth not upon the Romans Military road way which is the most certaine marke to finde out the station and Mansions mentioned by Antonine neither are there heere any peeces of Romane money ever digged up as far as I can learne I have read that in the Brittish tongue it was named Liswidur or Lettidur but it may seeme to have been translated so out of the English name For Lettuy in the British language signifieth Common Innes and so Lettidur Innes upon a river like Bedford in English Beds or Innes at a fourd Cuthwulf the Saxon about the yeere of our salvation 572. beneath this towne so vanquished the Britans in an open pitch field that then presently upon it finding themselves over-matched yeelded up many townes into his hands Neither should it seeme that the Saxons neglected it For Offa the most puissant King of the Mercians choose heere as we read in Florilegus for himselfe a place of sepulture whose tombe the river Ouse swelling upon a time and carrying a more violent and swifter streame than ordinary in a floud swouped cleane away Afterwards also when it was rased downe and lay along by occasion of the Danish depredations K. Edward the Elder repaired it and laid unto it upon the South-side of the river a prety townlet which in that age as we finde in the best copy of Hovedon was called Mikesgat In the time of King Edward the Confessor as we read in that booke which King William the Conqueror caused to be written when he tooke the survey of England It defended it selfe for halfe an Hundred in wars expeditions and shipping The land belonging to this towne was never bided After this it suffered far more grievous calamities under the Normans For when Pain de Beauchamp the third Baron of Bedford had built heere a Castle there arose not any storme of civill war but it thundred upon it so long as it stood Stephen when with breach of his oath he intercepted to himselfe the Kingdome of England first forced this Castle and with very great slaughter of men won it afterwards when the Barons had taken armes against King Iohn William de Beauchamp Lord thereof and one of the Captaines of their side surrendred it unto their hands But a yeere or two after Falco de Breaut laid siege thereto and forthwith the Barons yeelded and the King in free gift bestowed it upon him Yet the unthankefull man raised up a world of warre againe upon King Henry the third He pulled downe Churches to strengthen this Castle and exceedingly damnified the territory adjoyning untill the King besieged it and when after threescore daies he had quelled the stubborne stomackes of these rebels brought this nest and nourse of sedition into his owne hands It will not be I hope distastfull to the reader if I set
downe heere the maner of assaulting this Castle out of a writer who then lived and saw it to the end wee may understand with what devises and engines that age as wittie well neere as ours to worke men mischiefe used in their sieges of Townes On the East-side saith hee there was planted one Petrarie and two Mangonells which daily played upon the Towre and on the West-side two Mangonells which battered the old Towne also one Mangonell on the South part and another on the North which made two breaches and entries in the next walles Besides these there were two frames or engines of Timber made by Carpenters erected higher above the toppe of the Tower and Castle for Shootters in brakes and for discoverers There were moreover there many frames wherein shooters out of Brakes and slingers were set in await furthermore there was a frame or engine there called the Cat under which the Pioners and underminers had their ingresse and egresse whiles they digged under the Walles of Towre and Castle Now was this Castle taken by foure assaults In the first was the Barbican wonne in the second the out Ballie At the third fell the Wall downe neere the olde Towre by the meanes of the Miners where by the helpe of a chinke or breach with great daunger they became possessed of the inner Ballie At the fourth the Miners put fire under the Towre so that the smoke brake forth and the Towre was rent asunder in so much as the clifts and breaches appeared wide and then the enemies yeelded themselves Of these Mangonells Patraries Trabucks Bricols Espringolds and of that which our ancestors termed the Warwolse by which before that Gunnes were devised they discharged volies of mighty huge stones with great violence and so brake through strong walles much might heere be said were they not beside my purpose But my author proceedeth thus Falco remained Excommunicate untill he restored unto the King the Castle of Plumpton and Stoke-curcy with his plate of gold and silver both and such money as that he had and from thence was led to London Meane while the Sheriffe had commandement to demolish and rase the Towre and out Ballie As for the inward Ballie when the Bulwarks were cast downe and both Trench and Rampier laid levell with the ground it remained unto William Beauchamp for to dwell in The stones were graunted unto the Chanons of Newenham and Chaldwell and of Saint Pauls Church in Bedford Neither yet for all this is there any thing here more worth the seeing than the remaines of this Castle on the East side of the towne hanging over the river On both sides of Bedford stood two prety and very faire religious houses Helenstow now Eustow on the South part consecrated by Judith wife to Waltheof Earle of Huntingdon unto Helena Great Constantines Mother and to sacred Virgins on the East Newenham which Roise the wife of Paine de Beauchamp translated thither from Saint Paules within Bedford Ouse is not gone farre from hence but he seeth the tokens of a decayed Castle at Eaton which was another seate of the family de Beauchamp and bids Bedford-shire farewell hard by Bissemed where Hugh de Beauchamp and Roger his brother founded a little Monastery for the Chanons of Saint Austins order as appeareth by the Popes Bull. These stand on the farther side of Ouse which yet before from the South is augmented with a namelesse brooke at whose confluents is to be seene Temsford well knowne by reason of the Danes standing Campe and the Castle there which they then built when they wintering in Campe lay sore upon this Country and threw downe the Britans Fort as it is thought The place whereof now called Chesterfield and Sandie sheweth oftentimes peeces of Romane coyne as expresse tokens of the antiquity thereof Neither doe some doubt by the very situation but that this was that SALENAE which Ptolomee ascribeth to the Cattieuchlani if Salndy be the name as divers have avouched unto me Heere I overpasse Potton a little mercat towne because I finde nothing of it but that Iohn Kinaston gave it and the Lands adjoyning freely unto Thomas Earle of Lancaster Neither have I reason to make many words of such places as be situate upon this Brooke to wit Chicksand where Paine de Beauchamp built a little Monastery Shelford a mercat Wardon more inward where was a house of Cistertian monkes and was mother to the Abbaies of Saulterey Sibton and Tilthey Biglesward much spoken of and frequented for the horse Fayre there and the stone bridge From whence Stratton is not farre the mansion place in times past of the Barons Latimer afterward of the Enderbeies and from them hereditarily untill our time of the Pigotts Five miles from the head of this brooke in the very heart and middest well neere of the shire standeth Ampthill upon an hill a parcell of the Barony of Kainho heeretofore and lately a stately house resembling a castle and environed with Parks built by Sir Iohn Cornwale Baron Fanhop in the reigne of Henry the Sixth with the spoyles wonne from the French whose goods as I have read when Edward the Fourth had confiscated for taking part with the Familie of Lancaster and indited him or this house rather as Fanhop himselfe saith of high treason forthwith it was granted unto Edmund Grey Lord of Ruthin and afterwards Earle of Kent whose grandchild Richard passed both it and Ruthin over to King Henry the Seventh and he annexed the same unto the Kings Sacred Patrimony as the Civilians terme it or as our Lawyers use to say unto the Crowne and shortly after with the Lands appertaining it was made the Honour of Ampthil From hence more Northward lieth Haughton Conquest so called of a worshipfull and ancient family which a long time dwelt therein Westward is Woburn where now is a free schoole founded by Francis Earle of Bedford and where sometime flourished a notable monastery built by Henry de Bolebic for Cistercians who himselfe entred into this order Under which at Aspley Gowiz there is a kinde of earth men say that turneth wood into stones and for proofe and testimony thereof I have heard say there was a wooden ladder to be seene in that monastery that having lien a good while covered all over in that earth was digged forth againe all stone More into the East Tuddington sheweth a faire house goodly to be seene which Sir Henry Cheiney made by Queene Elizabeth Baron Cheyney of Tuddington built and shortly after died Sans-issue where also in old time Paulin Pever a Courtier and Sewer to King Henry the Third as Matthew Paris witnesseth built a strong house with the hall chappell chambers and other houses of stone and the same covered with lead with Orchards also and Parkes to it in such sort as it caused the beholders to wonder thereat We were not gone forward farre from hence but we came to Hockley
in the Hole so named of the miry way in Winter time very troublesome to Travellers For the old Englishmen our Progenitors called deepe myre hock and hocks So passing along fields smelling sweet in Sommer of the best Beanes which with their redolent savour doe dull the quicke sent of Hounds and Spaniels not without fuming and chaâ—ing of Hunters we mounted up by a whitish chalkey hill into the Chiltern and streightwaies were at Dunstable This Towne seated in a chalkey ground well inhabited and full of Innes hath foure Streetes answering to the foure quarters of the world in every one of which notwithstanding the Soile bee most dry by nature there is a large Pond of standing water for the publique use of the Inhabitants And albeit they bee fed onely by raine water yet they never faile nor become dry As for spring-veines there are none to bee found unlesse they sinke Wells or pits foure and twenty Cubits deepe In the middest of the Towne is a Crosse or Columne rather to be seene with the Armes of England Castle and Ponthieu engraven thereon adorned also with Statues and Images which King Edward the First erected as he did some others in memoriall of Aeleoner his Wife all the way as hee conveyed her Corps out of Lincoln-shire with funerall pompe to Westminster That this Dunstable was the very same Station which the Emperour Antonine in his Itinerary calleth MAGIONINIUM MAGIOVINIUM and MAGINTUM no man needs to make doubt or to seeke it else where For besides that it is situate upon the Romanes high way there are peeces of the Roman Emperours moneies found otherwhiles in the fields adjoyning round about by the Swine-heards which as yet they terme Madning mony and within a little of the very descent of the Chiltern hils there is a military modell raised up round with a Rampire and Ditch such as Strabo writeth the Britans Townes were containing nine Acres of ground which the people use to call Madning-boure and Madin-boure in which very name with a little change MAGINTUM most plainly sheweth it selfe But when the said MAGINTUM by the injury of warre or time was decayed king Henry the First heere reedified a Towne built a royall house at Kings-bury and planted a Colony to represse the boldnesse of Theeves that heere beset the wayes and lay in wait as the private History of the Priory that himselfe founded for the ornament of this his Colony doth evidently beare witnesse But heare the very words out of that private History although they savour of the Barbarisme of that age Note that the plot of ground where the two high waies Watling and Ikening meet was first by Henry the elder King of England cleered to keepe under and bridle the wickednesse of a certaine most notorious Theefe named Dun and his Companions and of that Dun the said place was named Dunstable The King our Lord built there the Burgh of Dunstable and made for himselfe a royall Manour or house neere under that place The King had in the same Towne both Faire and Mercat Afterwards hee founded a Church and by authority of Pope Eugenius the Third placed therein Regular Chanons and feoffed the said Religious Chanons in the whole Burgh by his Charter and bestowed upon them very many liberties As for Leighton Buzard on the one side of Dunstable and Luton on the other neither have I reade nor seene any thing memorable in them unlesse I should say that at Luton I saw a faire Church but the Quier then Roofelesse and overgrowne with Weedes and adjoyning to it an elegant Chappell founded by I. Lord Wenlocke and well maintained by the Family of Rotheram planted heere by Thomas Rotheram Archbishop of Yorke and Chancellour of England in the time of King Edward the Fourth As touching the Lords Dukes and Earles of Bedford First there were Barons of Bedford out of the Family of Beauchamp who by right of inheritance were Almners to the Kings of England upon their Coronation day Whose inheritance being by females parted among the Mowbraies Wakes Fitz-Ottes c. King Edward the Third created Engelrame de Coucy Earle of Suesons in France sonne to Engelrame Lord of Coucy and his Wife daughter to the Duke of Austria the first Earle of Bedford giving unto him his daughter in marriage Afterwards King Henrie the Fifth advaunced Bedford to the title of a Dukedome and it had three Dukes the first was John the third sonne of King Henrie the Fourth who most valiantly vanquished the French men in a Sea-fight at the mouth of Seyne and afterwards being Regent of France slaine in a battaile on land before Vernoil who was buried in Roan and together with him all the Englishmens good fortune in France At which time he was Regent of France Duke of Bedford Alaunson and Anjou Earle of Maine Richmond and Kendall and Constable of England For so was his stile Whose Monument when Charles the Eighth King of France came to see and a Noble man standing by advised him to rase it Nay answered he let him rest in peace now being dead of whom in war while he lived all France had dread The second Duke of Bedford was George Nevill a very child sonne to John Marquesse Mont-acute both whom King Edward the Fourth so soone as hee had raised them to that type of Honours threw downe againe and that by authoritie of the Parliament the Father for his perfidious disloyaltie in revolting from him the Sonne in dislike of his Father Howbeit there was a colourable pretense made that his estate was too weake for to maintaine the port and dignity of a Duke and because great men of high place if they be not wealthy withall are alwaies grievous and injurious The third was Iasper of Hatfield Earle of Pembroch Honoured with that title by his Nephew King Henrie the Seventh for that hee was both his Unckle and had delivered him out of extreame dangers who being aged and a Bachelar departed this life some ten yeeres after his Creation But within the remembrance of our Fathers it fell backe againe to the title of an Earledome what time as King Edward the Sixth created Iohn Lord Russell Earle of Bedford after whom succeeded his Sonne Francis a man so religious and of such a noble courteous nature that I can never speake ought so highly in his commendation but his vertue will far surpasse the same He left to succeed him Edward his Nephew by his Sonne Sir Francis Russell who was slaine a day or two before his Father departed this life by Scotishmen in a tumult upon a True-day in the midle marches 1585. This small Province hath Parishes 116. HERTFORDIAE Comitatus A. Cattifuclanis olim Inhabitatus HERTFORD-SHIRE HERTFORD-SHIRE which I said was the third of those that belonged to the Cattieuchlani lieth on the East and partly on the South side of Bedford-shire The West side is enclosed with Bedford-shire and Buckingham-shire The South with Middlesex
the East with Essex and the North with Cambridge-shire A rich country in corne fields pastures medows woods groves and cleere riverets And for ancient townes it may contend with the neighbours even for the best For there is scarsely another shire in all England that can shew more places of Antiquities in so small a compasse In the very limit thereof Northward where it boundeth upon Cambridge-shire standeth Roiston a towne well knowne but of no antiquity as being risen since the Normans daies For one Dame Roise a woman in that age of right great name whom some thinke to have been Countesse of Norfolke erected there about a Crosse in the high way which was thought in that age a pious worke to put passengers in minde of Christs passion whereupon this place was for many yeeres called Roises-Crosse untill that Eustach de Marc adjoined thereto a little Monastery in the honour of Thomas of Canterbury for then were Innes built and by little and little it grew to be a towne which in stead of Roises Crosse was called Roiston that is Roises towne unto which King Richard the First granted a Faire at certaine set times and a mercat Now it is very famous and passing much frequented for Malt For it is almost incredible how many buyers and sellers of corne how many Badgers yea and Corne-mongers or Regraters flocke hither weekely every mercat day and what a number of horses loden doe then fill the high waies on every side Over Roiston Southward is mounted Tharfield among the high hils an ancient habitation of the familie of Berners descended from Hugh de Berners unto whom in recompence of his valiant service in the Normans Conquest King William the Conquerour granted faire lands in Eversdon within the county of Cambridge And in so great worship and reputation flourished his posterity that Sir John Bourchier who married the right heire at common law of that familie being promoted by King Edward the Fourth to the honour of Baron tooke his addition thereof and was stiled Baron Bourchier of Berners and usually Lord Berners Upon this confineth Nucelles belonging in times past to the house of the Rochesters or Roffes but all the repute and glory that it hath arose from the inhabitants thereof afterwards namely the Barons of Scales descended out of Norfolke but yet the heires of Roffe For King Edward the First gave unto Sir Robert de Scales in regard of his valourous service in the Scotish warres certaine lands to the value in those daies of three hundred markes by the yeare and called him among the Barons to the Parliament Their Eschocheon Gules with sixe escallops argent is seene in many places They flourished unto King Edward the Fourth his daies at what time the only daughter and heire of this family was wedded vnto Sir Anthonie Widevile Earle Rivers whom being advanced by his owne glorious prowesse and the kings marriage with his sister the malicious hatred and envie of his enemies most vilanouslie overwrought and brought to utter destruction For King Richard the Third beheaded him innocent man as he was And when as she died without issue the inheritance was parted in King Henry the Sevenths time betweene Iohn Earle of Oxford who by the Howards and Sir William Tindale knight who by the Bigods of Felbridge were found next cousens and coheires The Manour of Barkway hereby appertained also to those Lords Scales a well knowne throughfare Beyond which is Barley that imparted surname to the ancient and well allied family of the Barleies and on this side Anestie which was not long since the inheritance of the house of Yorke and in elder times the Castle there was a nest of rebels wherefore Nicholas of Anesty Lord thereof was expresly commanded by King Henry the Third to demolish so much of it as was raised since the Barons warres against his Father King John But now time hath wholy rased it all To returne though disorderly East-ward is Ashwell as one would say The well or fountaine among the Ashes a Country towne of good bignesse and full of houses situate on a low ground in the very North edge of the shire where there is a source of springs bubling out of a stony banke overshadowed on every side with tall ashes from whence there floweth at certaine veines continually running such store of water that forthwith being gathered within banks it carrieth a streame able to drive a Mill and all of a sudden as it were groweth to a good big river Of these wels and ashes together as most certaine it is that the English-Saxons imposed this new name Ashwell so I have been sometime of this opinion that the ancient Britans who as Gildas witnesseth heaped divine honours upon hils rivers fountaines and groves from the very same thing and in the same sense called it Magiovinium and that it was the same which Antonine named MAGIONINIVM But time hath now discovered a more certaine truth neither am I ashamed to change mine opinion in this point seeing I take no pleasure at all in mine owne error And yet to prove the ancientnesse of this towne the large quadrant adjoyning enclosed with a trench and rampire maketh much which by the Romane peeces of coyne digged up there oftentimes sheweth whose worke it was and in that booke wherein above 500. yeeres since King William the Conquerour tooke the review and account of all the townes in England it is in plaine words tearmed a Burgh Southward we saw Merkat-Baldock situate upon a whitish soile wherein as also in Hitching hard by we read of no antiquity Then is there seated in a well-husbanded and good ground Wimondley an ancient and famous Lordship held by the most honourable tenure with us which our Lawyers terme Grand-Sergeanty namely that the Lord thereof should serve unto the Kings of England upon their Coronation day the first cup and be as it were the Kings Cup-bearer Which honorable office in regard of this Lordship certaine Noble Gentlemen called Fitz-Tek held in the beginning of the Normans reigne from whom by a daughter it came unto the Argentons These fetched their name and pedegree from David de Argenton a Norman and a martiall knight who under King William the Conquerour served in the wars and they in remembrance heereof gave for their armes Three Cups Argent in a shield Gueules But at last for want of issue male in King Henry the Sixth his daies Elizabeth Argenton the sole and entier inheritrice brought it unto her husband Sir William Allington knight with faire lands thereby and this dignity from whom Sir Giles Allington now the heire of this family is the seventh a young Gentleman right courteous and of a generous nature who I hope will give some new lustre by his vertues unto the ancient worship of his house Hard by and neere unto the roade high-way betweene Stevenhaugh and Knebworth the seat of the worshipfull house of the
Littons descended from Litton in Darbyshire I saw certaine round hils cast up and raised by mans hands such as the old Romanes were wont to reare for Souldiers slaine in the wars of which the Captaine himselfe laied the first turfe Unlesse some man would rather say they had a reference to the bounds For such like little hils in old time were reared to signifie the bounds of lands under which they used to lay ashes coales lime bricke and tile beaten to powder c. as I will shew else-where more at large Beneath this more Southward the river Lea by our forefathers named 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 hath his head who with a milde course passeth down first by Whethamsted a towne plentifull in wheate whereof it tooke name which place John of Whethamsted there borne and thereof named a man in King Henry the Sixth his daies much renowned by his due desert of learning made of more estimation From thence running by Brocket Hall the residence in late time of the Brockets Knights approcheth neere unto Bishops Hatfield situate upon the fall and hanging of a little hill in the upper part whereof stood a house of the Kings now the Earle of Salisburies in times past belonging to the Bishops of Ely whereupon it was named Bishops Hatfield which John Morton Bishop of Ely reedified For in this place King Eadgar gave unto the Church of Ely forty hides of land Afterwards it passeth under Hertford which in some Copies of Bede is named Herudford where he treateth of the Synode there holden in the yeare of our Salvation 670. which name some interprete The red Ford others The Ford of Harts This Towne in William the Conquerours time discharged it selfe for ten hides and in it were 26. Burgesses and at that time Ralph Limsey a Noble man built heere a Cell for Saint Albans Monkes But now it is neither greatly inhabited nor much frequented and in this respect most of all commended because it is ancient For why it hath given name to the whole County and is reputed the Shire-towne A Castle it hath upon the River Lea built as men thinke by King Edward the elder and enlarged first by the house of Clare whereunto it belonged For Gislebert of Clare about King Henry the Second his dayes was accounted Earle of this Hertford and Robert Fitz-walter of the same house of Clare what time as Stephen seized into his hands all the Castles of England wheresoever avouched franckly even to Stephen his face as we read in Mathew of Paris that the keeping of this Castle by ancient right appertained to himselfe Afterwards it was laid unto the Crowne and King Edward the Third granted unto Iohn of Gaunt his sonne then Earle of Richmond who afterward was Duke of Lancaster this Castle with the Towne and honour of Hertford where as the very words runne in the Graunt hee might according to his estate keepe house and decently make his aboade From hence Lea falleth downe forthwith to Ware so named of a barre or dam made to stay water streames which our Ancestours called a Weare or Ware This Towne even at the very first did much harme unto Hertford and afterwards by reason it became so greatly hanted darkened as it were the light thereof For when the Barons warre against King John was waxed hote this Ware presuming much upon their Lord the Baron Wake turned London high way to it whereas before it was but a little Village and knowne by a Friery which hee founded neither was it lawfull to passe that way with any Carts considering that the Bridge was chained up the Keyes whereof were in the custody of the Bailiffe of Hertford Neere about which time Gilbert Marescall Earle of Pembroch a principall and most potent Peere of the Realme proclaimed heere a disport of running on horsebacke with launces which they call Tourneaments under the name of Fortunie making a scorne of the Kings Authority whereby such Toureneaments were inhibited To which place when a great number of the Nobility and Gentry were assembled it fortuned that himselfe as hee ranne at tilt by occasion that his flinging horse brake bridle and cast him was trampled under foote and so pittifully dyed These Justs or Tourneaments were certaine publique exercises of Armes and more than flourishes practised among noble Gentlemen and instituted if wee beleeve Munster in the yeare of our Lord 934. having also speciall lawes thereto belonging which you may finde in the said Munster and the same exercises were used a long time in such an outragious manner and with such flaughter of Gentlemen in all places but in England most of all since that King Stephen brought them in that by divers Decrees of the Church they were forbidden upon paine that whosoever therein were slaine should want Christian Buriall in Church or Churchyard and heere with us King Henry the Third by advise of his Sages made an Act of Parliament that their heires who transgressed in this kinde should be disinherited Howbeit contrary to the said law so good and wholesome this naughty and wicked custome was practised a great while and grew not quite out of use before the happy dayes of King Edward the Third Betwixt these two Townes Hertford and Ware distant scarce two miles a sunder Lea is encreased by two rilles from the North Asserius termeth them Mimeram and Benefician I would guesse that to bee Benefician upon which standeth Benington where the notable family of Bensted had in old time a little Castle and also Woodhall an habitation of the Butlers who being branched from Sir Ralph Butler Baron of Wem in Shropshire and his wife heire to William Pantulfe Lord of Wem were Lords of Pulre-bach and enriched much by an heire of Sir Richard Gobion and another of Peletot Lord of this place in the time of King Edward the Third I take Mimeran to bee the other brooke whereupon Pukerich is seated which by the grant of King Edward the First at the mediation of William le Bland had a Mercate and Faire granted to it Whereupon also neighboureth Standon with a seemely house built by Sir Ralph Sadleir Chauncellour of the Dutchy of Lancaster Privie Counsellour to three Princes and the last Knight Baneret of England a man so advanced for his great services and staied wisedome At the backe of Pukerich Munden Furnivall sheweth it selfe a place to bee remembred if it were but for this that Geffrey Earle of Britaine gave it to Gerard de Furnivall of whom also it bare the name a younger sonne of Furnivall of Sheffeld But now let us returne to the River Lea and the Towne of Ware unto which the Danes being come with their light Pinnaces and Shallops raised a Fort as the said Asserius reporteth which when King Aelfred could not winne by force hee by digging three severall Chanels turned aside the water of Lea that they might not returne with their Vessels So as ever since it stood
the clouds disparcled and golden dayes in deed shone upon it Since when it never sustained any great calamity to speake of but through the speciall favour and indulgence of Princes obtained very large and great Immunities beganne to bee called The Kings Chamber and so flourished a new with fresh trade and traffique of Merchants that William of Malmesbury who lived well neere about that time termed it A noble and wealthy City replenished with rich Citizens and frequented with the commerce of Occupiers and Factours comming out of all lands And Fitz-Stephen living also in those dayes hath left in writing that London at that time counted an hundred and twenty two Parish Churches and thirteene Covents of religious Orders also that when a Muster and shew was made of able men to beare Armes they brought into the Field under their Collours forty thousand footemen and twenty thousand horsemen Then was it enlarged with new buildings and the spacious Suburbs stretched forth from the gates a great length on every side but Westward especially which are the greatest and best peopled In which are twelve Innes ordained for Students of our Common law whereof foure being very faire and large belong to the judiciall Courts the rest to the Chauncery besides two Innes moreover for the Serjeants at Law Herein such a number of young Gentlemen doe so painefully ply their bookes and study the Law that for frequency of Students it is not inferiour either to Angiers Cane or Orleance it selfe as Sir Iohn Fortescue in his small Treatise of the Lawes of England doth witnesse The said foure principall houses are The Inner Temple the Middle Temple Graies Inne and Lincolns Inne Those two former named stand in the very place where in times past during the Raigne of King Henry the Second Heraclius Patriarch of Jerusalem consecrated a Church for Knights Templars which they had newly built according to the forme of the Temple neere unto the Sepulchre of our Lord at Hierusalem For at their first institution about the yeare of our Lord 1113. they dwelt in part of the Temple hard by the Sepulchre whereof they were so named and vowed to defend Christian Religion the Holy Land and Pilgrimes going to visite the Lords Sepulchre against all Mahometans and Infidels professing to live in chastity and obedience whereupon all men most willingly and with right loving hearts embraced them so that through the bounteous liberality of Princes and devout people having gotten in all places very faire Possessions and exceeding great wealth they flourished in high reputation for Piety and Devotion yea and in the opinion both of the holinesse of the men and of the place King Henry the Third and many Noble men desired much to bee buryed in their Church among them Some of whose Images are there to bee seene with their legges acrosse For so they were buryed in that Age that had Taken upon them the Crosse as they then termed it to serve in the Holy Land or had vowed the same Among whom was William Marshall the elder a most powerfull man in his time William and Gilbert his sonnes Marshalles of England and Earles of Penbroch Upon William the elder his Tombe I some yeares since read in the upper part Comes Penbrochiae and upon side this Verse Miles eram Martis Mars multos vicerat armis Of Mars I was a doughty Knight Mars vanquished many a man in fight But in processe of time when with insatiable greedinesse they had hoorded great wealth by withdrawing tith's from churches appropriating spiritual livings to themselves and other hard meanes their riches turned to their ruine For thereby their former piety was after a manner stifled they fell at jarre with other religious orders their professed obedience to the Patriarch of Ierusalem was rejected envy among the common sort was procured which hope of gain among the better sort so enkindled that in the yeere of our salvation 1312. this order was condemned of impiety and by the Popes authority utterly abolished Howbeit their possessions were by authority of the Parliament assigned to the Hospitalier Knights of S. Iohn of Ierusalem least that such Lands given to pious and good uses against the Donours will should bee alienated to other uses And yet it is apparent out of ancient writings that this place after the expulsion of the Templers was the seat and habitation of Thomas Earle of Lancaster and of Sir Hugh Spenser King Edward the Second his minion afterwards of Sir Aimer de Valence Earle of Pembroch and in the end turned into two Colledges or Innes of Lawyers Of the rest of these Innes I have found nothing at all by reading But the generall voyce goeth that the one was the dwelling house of the Lord Greies of Wilton and the other of the Earles of Lincolne Nere unto this K. Henry the third erected betweene the New and the Old Temple an house of Converts for the maintenance of those that were converted from Iudaisme to the Christian Truth which King Edward the Third appointed afterwards for rolls and records to be kept therein and thereof at this day it is called The Rowls These Suburbs with houses standing close together and stately habitations of the Nobles and great Men of the Land along the Tamis side reach out as farre as to Westminster Among which these are the most memorable here Bride-well where King Henry the Eighth built a royall house for the entertainment of Charles the Fifth Emperour but now it is an House of Correction Buckhurst house or Salisbury Court belonging sometimes to the Bishops of Salisbury the White Freers or Carmelite Freers The Temples whereof I speake Then without the Bars Essex house built by the Lord Paget Arondel house before called Hampton place and Somerset house built by Edward Semer Duke of Somerset The Savoy so named of Peter Earle of Savoy who there dwelt which Queene Aeleonor wife to King Henry the Third purchased of the fraternity of Mont-joy and gave it to her Sonne Edmund Earle of Lancaster Whose Posterity dwelt in it a long time untill that King Henry the Seaventh dedicated it as an Hospitall for the Poore Worcester-house late Bedford-house Salisbury-house Durham-house built by Antony Becke Bishop of Durham and Patriarch of Jerusalem and thereby the onely ornament of this part the Britain-Burse built by the Earle of Salisbury and so named by King Iames Yorke-house in times past Bath-house and Northampton-house now begunne by Henry Earle of Northampton But what meane I to name these places 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 None claime them wholy for their owne Fortune disposeth them every one By this Suburbs Westminster which sometime was more than a mile distant is conjoyned so close unto the Citty of London that it seemeth a member thereof whereas it is a Citty of it selfe having their peculiar Magistrates and Priviledges It was called in times past Thorney of Thornes but now Westminster of the West situation
and the Monastery Most renowned it is for that Church the Hall of Iustice and the Kings Palace This Church is famous especially by reason of the Inauguration and Sepulture of the Kings of England Sulcard writeth that there stood sometimes a Temple of Apollo in that place and that in the dayes of Antoninus Pius Emperor of Rome it fell downe with an Earth-quake Out of the remaines whereof Sebert King of the East-Saxons erected another to Saint Peter which beeing by the Danes overthrowne Bishoppe Dunstane reedified and granted it to some few Monkes But afterwards King Edward surnamed the Confessour with the tenth penny of all his revenewes built it new for to be his owne sepulture and a Monastery for Benedictine Monkes endowing it with Livings and Lands lying dispersed in diverse parts of England But listen what an Historian faith who then lived The devout King destined unto God that place both for that it was nere unto the famous and wealthy Citty of London and also had a pleasant situation amongst fruitfull fields and greene grounds lying round about it and withall the principall River running hard by bringing in from all parts of the world great variety of Wares and Merchandize of all sorts to the Citty adjoyning But chiefly for the love of the chiefe Apostle whom he reverenced with a speciall and singular affection He made choise to have a place there for his owne Sepulchre and thereupon commanded that of the tenths of all his Rents the worke of a noble edifice should bee gone in hand with such as might beseeme the Prince of the Apostles To the end that he might procure the propitious favour of the Lord after he should finish the course of this transitory Life both in regard of his devout Piety and also of his free oblation of Lands and Ornaments wherewith hee purposed to endow and enrich the same According therefore to the Kings commandement the worke nobly beganne and happily proceeded forward neither the charges already disbursed or to bee disbursed are weighed and regarded so that it may bee presented in the end unto God and Saint Peter worth their acceptation The forme of that ancient building read if you please out of an old Manuscript booke The principall plot or ground-worke of the building supported with most lofty Arches is cast round with a foure square worke and semblable joynts But the compasse of the whole with a double Arch of stone on both sides is enclosed with joynd-worke firmely knit and united together every way Moreover the Crosse of the Church which was to compasse the midde Quire of those that chaunted unto the Lord and with a two-fold supportance that it had on either side to uphold and beare the lofty toppe of the Tower in the midst simply riseth at first with a low and strong Arch then mounteth it higher with many winding Staires artificially ascending with a number of steps But afterward with a single wall it reacheth up to the roofe of Timber well and surely covered with Lead But after an hundred and threescore yeeres King Henry the Third subverted this fabricke of King Edwards and built from the very foundation a new Church of very faire workemanship supported with sundry rowes of Marble pillars and the Rowfe covered over with sheets of Lead a peece of worke that cost fifty yeeres labour in building which Church the Abbots enlarged very much toward the West end and King Henry the Seventh for the buriall of himselfe and his children adjoyned thereto in the East end a Chappell of admirable artificiall elegancy The wonder of the World Leland calleth it for a man would say that all the curious and exquisite worke that can bee devised is there compacted wherein is to bee seene his owne most stately magnificall Monument all of solide and massie Copper This Church when the Monkes were driven thence from time to time was altered to and fro with sundry changes First of all it had a Deane and Prebendaries soone after one Bishop and no more namely T. Thurlebey who having wasted the Church Patrimony surrendred it to the spoile of Courtiers and shortly after were the Monks with their Abbot set in possession againe by Queene Mary and when they also within a while after were by authority of Parliament cast out the most gracious Prince Queene Elizabeth converted it into a Collegiat Church or rather into a Seminary and nurse-garden of the Church appointed twelve Prebendaries there and as many old Soldiers past service for Almes-men fourty Scholers who in their due time are preferred to the Universities and from thence sent foorth into the Church and Common-weale c. Over these she placed D. Bill Deane whose successour was D. Gabriel Goodman a right good man indeede and of singular integrity an especiall Patron of my studies Within this Church are entombed that I may note them also according to their dignity and time wherein they died Sebert the first of that name and first Christian King of the East-Saxons Harold the bastard son of Canutus the Dane King of England S. Edward King and Confessour with his wife Edith Maud wife to King Henry the First the daughter of Malcolme King of Scots King Henry the Third and his son King Edward the First with Aeleonor his wife daughter to Ferdinandâ— the first King of Castile and of Leon. King Edward the Third and Philippa of Henault his wife King Richard the Second and his wife Anne sister to Wenzelaus the Emperor King Henry the Fifth with Catharine his wife daughter to Charles the Sixt king of France Anne wife to king Richard the Third daughter to Richard Nevill Earle of Warwicke king Henry the Seventh with his wife Elizabeth daughter to king Edward the Fourth and his mother Margaret Countesse of Richmond king Edward the Sixth Anne of Cleve the fourth wife of king Henry the Eighth Queene Mary And whom we are not to speake of without praise The Love and Joy of England Queene ELIZABETH of Sacred memory our late Soveraigne and most gratious Lady a Prince matchlesse for her heroicke Vertues Wiâ—edome and Magnanimity above that Sexe rare knowledge and skill in the Tongues is here intombed in a sumptuous and stately Monument which king Iames of a pious minde erected to her memory But alas how litle is that Monument in regard of so Noble and worthy a Lady Who of her selfe is her owne Monument and that right magnificent For how great SHE was RELIGION REFORMED PEACE WELL GROUNDED MONEY REDUCED TO THE TRUE VALUE A NAVY PASSING WELL FURNISHED IN READINES HONOUR AT SEA RESTORED REBELLION EXTINGVISHED ENGLAND FOR THE SPACE OF XLIIII YEERS MOST WISELY GOVERNED ENRICHED AND FORTIFIED SCOTLAND FREED FROM THE FRENCH FRANCE RELIEVED NETHERLANDS SUPPORTED SPAINE AWED IRELAND QUIETED AND THE WHOLE GLOBE OF THE EARTH TWICE SAYLED ROUND ABOUT may with praise and admiraration testifie one day unto all Posterity and succeeding ages Of Dukes and Earles degree there ly here buried Edmund Earle of
owne habitation For kings in those daies sat in Judgement place in their owne persons And they are indeed the 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Judges Whose mouth as that Royall Writer saith shall not erre in Judgement But the foresaid Palace after it was burnt downe in the yeare of our Lord 1512. lay desolate and king Henry the Eighth translated shortly after the kings Seat from thence to an house not farre off which belonged but a while before to Cardinall Wolsey and is called White Hall This house is a Princely thing enclosed of the one side with a Parke that reacheth also to another house of the kings named S. James where anciently was a Spittle for Maiden Lepres built by king Henry the Eighth on the other side with the Tamis A certaine Poet termed the foresaid House according to the English name thereof Leucaeum in Latine as appeareth in these Verses Regale subintrant Leucaeum Reges dederant memorabile quondam Atria quae niveo candebant marmore nomen Quod Tamisis prima est cui gloria pascere cygnos Ledaeos ranco pronus subterluit aestu To Royall Palace Kings enter in sometime LEUCEUM hight This famous name those Courts it gave that shone with marble white Hard under it with low-sound streame Tamis downe apace doth glide A River feeding Swannes wherein he takes especiall pride Hard by neere unto the Mues so called for that it served to keepe Hawkes and now is become a most faire Stable for the kings horses there remaineth a monument in memoriall of that most pious and kinde Queene Aeleonor erected by the king Edward the First her most dearely beloved husband and certes the memory of her loving kindnesse shall remaine worthy to be consecrated to aeternity For shee the daughter of Ferdinand the Third king of Castile being given in marriage to Edward the first king of England accompanied him into the Holy Land where when as he was secretly forelaid and by a certaine Moore wounded with an envenomed sword and by all the remedies that Physitians could devise was not so much eased as afflicted shee tooke her to a cure strange I must needs say and never heard of before howbeit full of love and kinde affection For her Husbands wounds infected with the poison and which by reason of the malignity thereof could not bee closed and healed shee day by day licked with her tongue and sucked out the venemous humour which to her was a most sweet liquour By the vigour and strength whereof or to say more truely by vertue of a wives lovely fidelity she so drew unto her all the substance of the poison that the wounds being closed and cicatrized hee became perfectly healed and shee caught no harme at all What then can bee heard more rare what more admirable than this womans faithfull love That a wives tongue thus annointed as I may so say with faith and love to her Husband should from her well beloved draw those poisons which by an approved Physitian could not bee drawne and that which many and those right exquisite medicines effected not the love onely and piety of a Wife performed Thus much of Westminster joyntly with London although as I have said it is a City by it selfe and hath a severall jurisdiction from it because with continued buildings it so joyneth thereto that it may seeme to be one and the same City Moreover at the West end of the City other Suburbs runne a great way in length with goodly rowes of houses orderly ranged as namely Holborne or rather more truely Oldborne wherein stood anciently the first house of the Templers onely in the place now called Southampton house But now there stand certaine Innes or Colleges of Students in the Common Law and a City-habitation of the Bishops of Ely well beseeming Bishops to dwell in for which they are beholden to John de Hotham Bishop of Ely under king Edward the Third At the North side likewise there be Suburbs annexed to the City wherein Iordan Briset a man very wealthy and devout built an house for the Knights Hospitalers of Saint Iohn of Ierusalem which grew in time so great that it resembled a Palace and had in it a very faire Church and a Towre-steeple raised to a great height with so fine workemanship that while it stood it was a singular beauty and ornament to the City These Knights Hospitalers at their first institution about the yeare 1124. and long after were so lowly all the while they continued poore that their Governour was stiled Servant to the poore Servitours of the hospitall of Ierusalem like as the Master of the Templars who shortly after arose was termed The humble Minister of the poore Knights of the Temple This religious Order was instituted shortly after Geffery of Bollen had recovered Hierusalem The Brethren whereof ware a white Crosse upon their upper blacke Garment and by solemne Profession were bound to serve Pilgrimes and poore people in the Hospitall of Saint Iohn at Hierusalem and to secure the passages thither they charitably buried the dead they were continuall in prayer mortified themselves with watchings and fastings they were courteous and kinde to the poore whom they called their Masters and fed with white bread while themselves lived with browne and carried themselves with great austerity Whereby they purchased to themselves the love and liking of all sorts and through the bounty of good Princes and private persons admiring their piety and prowesse they rose from this low degree to so high an estate and great riches that after a sort they wallowed in wealth For they had about the yeare of our Lord 1240. within Christendome nineteene thousand Lordships or Manours like as the Templars nine thousand the Revenewes and rents whereof in England fell afterwards also to these Hospitalers And this Estate of theirs growne to so great an height made way for them to as great honours so as their Prior in England was reputed the Prime Baron of the Land and able with fulnesse and aboundance of all things to maintaine an honourable Port untill that King Henry the Eighth advised by them which respected their private profit gat their lands and livings into his owne hands like as hee did of the Monasteries also Albeit it was then declared that such religious places being of most pious intent consecrated to the Glory of God might have beene according to the Canons of the Church bestowed in exhibition and Almes for Gods Ministers releefe of the poore redemption of Captives and repairing of Churches Neere unto it where now is to be seene a sightly circuit of faire houses was the Charter-house founded by Sir Walter Many of Henault who with singular commendation served under King Edward the Third in the French warres and in that place heretofore was a most famous Cemitery or buriall place in which in a plague time at London were buried in the yeare 1349. more than 50000. persons a
which he had overrunne by robbing and ransacking From hence Breton speedeth it selfe by Higham whence the family of Higham is so named to Stour which joyntly in one streame runne not farre from Bentley where the Talmachs of a celebrate ancient house flourished for a long time and after a few miles neere unto Arwerton the house long since of the family of the Bacons who held this Manour and Brome by conducting all the footemen of Suffolke and Norfolke from S. Edmunds dike in the warres of Wales Now it belongeth to the Parkers haereditarily who by the Fathers side derive their descent from the Barons Morley and by the Mothers from the Calthrops a Family sometime of great account in these parts Beneath this Stour falleth into the Ocean and at the very mouth thereof the river Orwell or Gipping dischargeth it selfe together with it This River springeth up in the very navell or centre as one would say of this shire out of two fountaines the one neere to Wulpet the other by Gipping a small Village Wulpet is a Mercat towne and soundeth as much as The Wolves pit if wee may beleeve Nubrigensis who hath told as prety and formall a tale of this place as is that fable called the TRUE NARRATION of Lucian namely how two little Boyes forsooth of a greene colour and of Satyrs kinde after they had made a long journey by passages under the ground from out of another world from the Antipodes and Saint Martins Land came up heere of whom if you would know more repayre to the Author himselfe where you shall finde such matter as will make you laugh your fill if you have a laughing spleene I wote not whether I were best to relate here into what a vaine hope of finding gold at Norton hard by a certaine credulous desire of having enticed and allured king Henry the Eight but the digging and undermining there sufficiently shew it although I say nothing But between Gipping and Wulpet upon an high hill remain the tokens of Hawhglee an ancient Castle taking up much about two Acres of ground Some affirme this to have beene called Hagoneth Castle which belonged to Ralph le Broc and that in the yeere 1173. it was by Robert Earle of Leicester won and overthrowne in the intestine warre betweene king Henry the Second and his unkindely disloyall sonne Upon the same River are seene two little Mercat Townes Stow and Needham and not farre from the banke Hemingston in which Baldwin Le Pettour marke his name well held certaine lands by Serjeanty the words I have out of an old booke for which on Christmasse day every yeere before our soveraigne Lord the King of England he should performe one Saltus one Suffletus and one Bumbulus or as wee read elsewhere his tenour was per saltum sufflum pettum that is if I understand these tearmes aright That hee should daunce puffe up his cheekes making therewith a sound and besides let a cracke downeward Such was the plaine and jolly mirth of those times And observed it is that unto this Foe the Manour of Langhall belonged Neere unto the mouth of this river we saw Ipswich in times past Gippwich a faire towne resembling a Citty situate in a ground somewhat low which is the eye as it were of this shire as having an Haven commodious enough fenced in times past with a trench and rampire of good trade and stored with wares well peopled and full of Inhabitants adorned with foureteene Churches and with goodly large and stately edifices I say nothing of foure religious houses now overturned and that sumptuous and magnificent Colledge which Cardinall Wolsey a Butchers sonne of this place here began to build whose vast minde reached alwayes at things too high The body politike or corporation of this towne consisteth as I was enformed of twelve Burgesses Portmen they terme them out of whom are chosen yeerely for the head Magistrates two Baillives and as many Justices out of foure and twenty others As touching the Antiquity thereof so farre as ever I could observe the name of it was not heard of before the Danish invasion whereof it smarted For in the yeere of salvation 991. the Danes sacked and spoyled it and all the Sea coast with so great cruelty that Siritius Archbishop of Canterbury and the Nobles of England thought it the safest and best course they could take to redeeme and buy their peace of them for the summe of ten thousand pounds Neverthelesse within nine yeeres they made spoyle of this towne againe and presently thereupon the Englishmen valiantly encountred them in the field but through the cowardly running away of one man alone named Turkill as writeth Henry of Huntingdon for in matter of warre things of small weight otherwise are of right great moment and sway very much our men were put to flight and let the victory slip out of their hands In the reigne of S. Edward as we finde in the Survey booke of England out of this towne Queene Edeva had two parts and Earle Guert a third part and Burgesses there were eight hundred paying custome to the King But after the Normans had possessed themselves of England they erected a pile or Castle here which Hugh Bigod defended for a good while against Stephen the usurping King of England but surrendred it in the end This fort is now quite gone so as there remaine not so much as the ruines thereof Some say it was in the parish of Westfield hard by where is to be seene the rubbish of a Castle and where old Gipwic as men say stood in times past I thinke verely it was then demolished when K. Henry the second laied Waleton Castle neer unto it even with the ground For it was a place of refuge for Rebels and here landed those three thousand Flemings whom the nobles of Englād had called in against him what time as he unadvisedly hee had made Prince Henry his sonne King and of equall power with himselfe and the young man knowing no meane would bee in the highest place or none set upon a furious desire of the Kingdome most unnaturally waged warre against his owne father Albeit these Castles are now cleane decaied and gone yet this Shore is defended sufficiently with an huge banke they call it Langerston that for two miles or thereabout in length lyeth forth into the maine Sea as hee saith not without great danger and terrour of such as saile that way howbeit the same serveth very well for Fishermen to dry their fishes and after a sort is a defence unto that spatious and wide Haven of Orwell And thus much for the South part of this Shire From hence the curving Shore for all this East part lyeth full against the Sea shooting forth Northward straight-way openeth it selfe to the Deben a Riveret having his spring-head neere unto Mendelesham unto which Towne the Lord of the place H. Fitz Otho Master
and the chiefe Magistrate was termed a Consul which name may intimate that it was a Roman towne But when Bishop Herbert surnamed Losenga for that he was composed of Leafing and Flattery the third Prelate that by evill meanes and Simony climbed up to this Dignity had removed his seat from hence to Norwich it fell againe to decay and as it were languished Neither could it sufficiently bee comforted for the absence of the Bishop by the Abbay of Cluniac Monkes which by his meanes was built This Abbay Hugh Bigod built out of the ground For so writeth he in the Instrument of the foundation I Hugh Bigod Steward to King Henry by his graunt and by the advise of Herbert Bishop of Norwich have ordained Monkes of the Order of Cluny in the Church of S. Mary which was the Episcopall seat of Thetford which I gave unto them and afterwards founded another more meete for their use without the Towne Howbeit even then the greatest part of the Citty that stood on the hithermore Banke by little and little fell to the ground the other part although it was much decayed yet one or two Ages agoe flourished with seaven Churches besides three small religious Houses whereof the one was by report erected in the memoriall of the Englishmen and Danes slaine here For hard by as our Historians doe record Edmund that most holy King a litle before his death fought Seaven houres and more with the Danes not without an horrible slaughter and afterwards gave over the battaile on even hand such was the alternative fortune of the Field that it drave both sides past their senses By Waveney the other River of those twaine that bound this Shire and runneth Eastward not farre from the Spring head thereof are seene Buckenham and Keninghall This which may seeme to have the name left unto it of the Iceni is the Seat of that most honourable Family of the Howards whose glory is so great that the envy of Bucchanan cannot empaire it As for the other so named as I take it of Beech trees which the Saxons called Bucken it is a faire and strong Castle built by William de Aubigny the Norman unto whom the Conqueror had given the place and by his heires that were successively Earles of Arundell it descended to the Tatsalls and from them by Caly and the Cliftons unto the family of the Knevets These are of an ancient house and renowned ever since Sir Iohn Knevet was Lord Chancellour of England under King Edward the Third and also honourably allied by great marriages For over and beside these of Buckenham from hence sprang those right worshipfull knights Sir Thomas Knevet Lord Knevet Sir Henry Knevet of Wiltshire and Sir Thomas Knevet of Ashellwell Thorpe and others This Ashellwell Thorpe is a little Towne nere adjoyning which from the Thorpes in times past of Knights degree by the Tilneis and the L. L. Bourchiers of Berners is devolved at length hereditarily unto that Sir Thomas Knevet before named As for that Buckenham aforesaid it is holden by this tenure and condition that the Lords thereof should at the Coronation of the Kings of England be the Kings Butlers that day Like as a thing that may beseeme the noting in Charleton a little neighbour village Raulph de Carleton and some one other held lands by this service namely To present an hundred Herring-Pies or Pasties when Herrings first come in unto their Soveraigne Lord the King wheresoever he be in England But this river neare to his spring runneth by and by under Disce now Dis a prety towne well knowne which King Henry the First gave frankely to Sir Richard Lucy and hee straightwayes passed it over to Walter Fitz-Robert with his Daughter of whose Posterity Robert Fitz-Walter obtained for this place the liberty of keeping Mercat at the hands of King Edward the First From thence although Waveney bee on each side beset with Townes yet there is not one amongst them that may boast of any Antiquity unlesse it bee Harleston a good Mercate and Shelton that standeth farther of both which have given surnames to the ancient Families of the Sheltons and Harlestons but before it commeth to the Sea it coupleth it selfe with the river Yare which the Britans called Guerne the Englishmen Gerne and Iere of Alder trees no doubt so termed in British wherewith it is overshadowed It ariseth out of the mids of this Countrie not farre from Gernston a little Towne that tooke name thereof and hath hard by it Hengham which had Lords descended from Iohn Marescall Nephew by the brother to William Marescall Earle of Penbroch upon whom King John bestowed it with the Lands of Hugh de Gornay a Traitour and also with the daughter and coheire of Hubert de Rhia From this Marescals it passed in revolution of time unto the Lord Morleis and from them by Lovell unto the Parkers now Lords Morley A little from hence is Sculton otherwise called Burdos or Burdelois which was held by this Tenure That the Lord thereof on the Coronation day of the Kings of England should be chiefe Lardiner Joint-neighbour to Sculton is Wood-Rising the faire seate of the Family of Southwels which received the greatest reputation and encrease from Sir Richard Southwell Privie Councellour to King Edward the Sixth and his Brother Sir Robert Master of the Rowles More Eastward is to be seene Wimundham now short Windham famous for the Albineys Earles of Arundell there enterred whose Ancestor and Progenitor William D' Albiney Butler to King Henry the First founded the Priory and gave it to the Abbay of Saint Albans for a Cell which afterward was advanced to an Abbay Upon the Steeple whereof which is of a great height William Ke◠one of the Captaines of the Norfolke Rebels in the yeare of our Lord 1549. was hanged on high Neither would it bee passed over in silence that five miles from hence standeth Attilborrough the seate of the Mortimers an ancient Family who being different from those of Wigmor bare for their Armes A Shield Or Semè de floures de Lyz Sables and founded heere a Collegiat Church where there is little now to bee seene The Inheritance of these Mortimers hath by marriage long since accrued to the Ratcliffs now Earles of Sussex to the Family of Fitz-Ralph and to Sir Ralph Bigot But returne we now to the River The said Yare holdeth not his course farre into the East before he taketh Wentsum a Riveret others call it Wentfar from the South into his streame upon which neere unto the head thereof there is a foure square Rampier at Taiesborrough containing foure and twenty Acres It may seeme to have beene a Campe place of the Romans if it be not that which in an old Chorographicall Table or Map published by Marcus Welserus is called AD TAUM Somewhat higher upon the same River stood VENTA ICENORUM the most flourishing City for a little one in times past of all this
people but now having lost the old name it is called Caster And no marvaile that of the three VENTAE Cities of Britain this onely lost the name seeing it hath quite lost it selfe For beside the ruines of the Walles which containe within a square plot or quadrant about thirty acres and tokens appearing upon the ground where sometimes houses stood and some few peeces of Romane money which are now and then there digged up there is nothing at all remaining But out of this ancient VENTA in the succeeding ages Norwich had her beginning about three miles from hence neere unto the confluents of Yare and another namelesse River some call it Bariden where they meet in one which River with a long course running in and out by Fakenham which King Henry the first gave to Hugh Capell and King John afterward to the Earle of Arundell and making many crooked reaches speedeth it selfe this way by Attilbridge to Yare and leaveth Horsford North from it where a Castle of William Cheneys who in the Raigne of Henry the Second was one of the great Lords and chiefe Peeres of England lieth overgrowne with bushes and brambles This NORVVICH is a famous City called in the English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is a Northerly Creeke if Wic among the Saxons signifieth the creeke or Cove of a River as Rhenanus sheweth unto us for in this very place the River runneth downe amaine with a crooked and winding compasse or a Northerne Station if Wic as Hadrianus Iunius would have it betokeneth a sure and secure station or place of aboad where dwelling houses stand joyntly and close together or a Northerly Castle if Wic sound as much as Castle as our Archbishop Alfrick the Saxon hath interpreted it But if I should with some others be of opinion that Norwich by a little turning is derived from Venta what should I doe but turne awry from the very truth For by no better right may it challenge unto it selfe the name of Venta than either Basil in Germany the name of AUGUSTA or Baldach of BABYLON For like as Baldach had the beginning of Babylons fall and Basil sprang from the ruine of Augusta even so our Norwich appeared and shewed it selfe though it were late out of that ancient VENTA which the British name thereof Caer Guntum in Authours doth prove wherein like as in the River Wentsum or Wentfar the name of Venta doth most plainely discover it selfe For this name Norwich wee cannot reade of any where in our Chronicles before the Danish warres So farre is it off that either Caesar or Guiteline the Britain built it as they write who are more hasty to beleeve all than to weigh matters with sound judgement But now verily by reason of the wealth the number of Inhabitants and resort of people the faire buildings and faire Churches and those so many for it containeth about thirty Parishes the painefull industry of the Citizens their loyalty towards their Prince and their courtesie unto strangers it is worthily to bee ranged with the most celebrate Cities of Britaine It is right pleasantly situate on the side of an Hill two and fifty Degrees and forty Scrupuls from the Aequator and foure and twenty Degrees and five and fifty Scrupuls in Longitude The forme is somewhat long lying out in length from South to North a mile and an halfe but carrying in breadth about halfe so much drawing it selfe in by little and little at the South end in manner as it were of a cone or sharpe point Compassed it is about with strong walles in which are orderly placed many Turrets and twelve gates unlesse it bee on the East-side where the River after it hath with many windings in and out watered the North part of the City having foure Bridges for men to passe to and fro over it is a Fence thereto with his deepe Chanell there and high steepe bankes In the very infancy as I may so say of this City when Etheldred a witlesse and unadvised Prince raigned Sueno or Swan the Dane who ranged at his pleasure through England with a great rable of spoiling Ravenours first put it to the sacke and afterwards set it on fire Yet it revived againe and as wee reade in that Domesday booke wherein William the Conquerour tooke the review of all England there were by account in King Edward the Confessours time no fewer than one thousand three hundred and twenty Burgesses in it At which time that I may speake out of the same Booke It paid unto the King twenty pounds and to the Earle ten pounds and beside all this twenty shillings and foure Prebendaries and sixe Sextars of Hony also a Beare and sixe Dogges for to bait the Beare but now it paieth seventy pounds by weight to the King and an hundred shillings for a Gersume to the Queene and an ambling Palfrey also twenty pounds Blanc to the Earle and twenty shillings for a Gersume by tale But while the said King William raigned that flaming fire of fatall sedition which Raulph Earle of East England had kindled against the King settled it selfe heere For when hee had saved himselfe by flight his wife together with the French Britons endured in this place a most grievous Siege even to extreme famine yet at length driven she was to this hard pinch that she fled the land and this City was so empaired that scarce 560. Burgesses were left in it as we reade in that Domesday booke Of this yeelding up of the City Lanfrank Archbishop of Canterbury maketh mention in his Epistle to King William in these words Your Kingdome is purged of these villanous and filthy Britons The Castle of Norwich is rendred up into your hands And the Britons who were therein and had lands in England having life and limme granted unto them are sworne within forty dayes to depart out of your Realme and not enter any more into it without your leave and licence From that time beganne it againe to recover it selfe by little and little out of this diluge of calamities and Bishop Herbert whose good name was cracked for his foule Simony translated the Episcopall See from Thetford hither and built up a very faire Cathedral Church on the East side and lower part of the City in a certaine place then called Cow-holme neere unto the Castle The first stone whereof in the Raigne of King William Rufus and in the yeare after Christs Nativity 1096. himselfe laid with this inscription DOMINUS HERBERTUS POSUIT PRIMUM LAPIDEM IN NOMINE PATRIS FILII ET SPIRITUS SANCTI AMEN That is LORD BISHOP HERBERT LAID THE FIRST STONE IN THE NAME OF THE FATHER THE SONNE AND HOLY GHOST AMEN Afterwards he procured of Pope Paschal that it should be established and confirmed for the Mother Church of Norfolke and Suffolke he endowed it bountifully with as much lands as might sufficiently maintaine threescore Monkes who had there faire and spacious Cloysters
Waveney that divideth Norfolke and Suffolke the cawsey thereby and other works of piety deserved well of the Church his Country and the Common-weale and planted three houses of his owne Issue out of the second whereof Sir Henry Hobart his great Grandchilde now likewise Atturney Generall to King Iames is lineally descended Now Yare approching neerer to the Sea runneth downe Southward that so it may shed it selfe more gently into the salt sea waves and thereby maketh a little languet of land like a tongue thrust out which it selfe of one side watereth and the Sea on the other beateth upon On this languet I saw standing in a most open plaine shore Yarmouth in the English-Saxon 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Yares-mouth a very convenient Haven and as faire a Towne beautifully built and passing well fensed both by the naturall strength of the place and also by the skilfull industry of mans Art For although it bee environed almost round with Water on the West side with the River which hath a Draw Bridge over it and from other Partes with the Ocean unlesse it bee Northward where there is firme land yet is it in most sightly manner enclosed with a good strong wall which together with the River make a square forme of foure sides but somewhat long upon which wall beside Towres there is cast a mount toward the East from whence the great Peeces of Ordnance use to thunder and flash all about into the Sea under it which is scarce 60. paces off It hath indeed but one Church yet the same is very large having a passing high spire steeple to adorne it built by Herbert Bishop of Norwich hard by the North gate under which are to be seene the foundations brought above ground of a goodly peece of worke to enlarge the same That this was that old Towne GARIANONUM where in times past the Stablesian Horsemen kept their standing watch and ward against the barbarous enemies I dare not affirme neither doe I thinke that Garianonum was where Caster is now in times past the faire seat of Sir Iohn Fastolfe a most martiall knight and now appertaining to the Pastons albeit it is much celebrated among the Inhabitants for the antiquity thereof and the fame goeth that the River Y are had another mouth or passage into the Sea under it But as I am perswaded that GARIANONUM stood at Burgh-castle in Suffolke which is on the other banke about two miles off so I am easily induced to thinke that both Yarmouth arose out of the ruines thereof and also that the said Caster was one of the Roman Forts placed also upon the mouth of Yare that now is stopped up For like as the North Westerne Winde doth play the Tyrant upon Holland over against it and by drift of Shelves and Sand-heapes hath choked the middest of the Rhene-mouthes even so the North-East Winde afflicteth and annoieth this Coast and driveth the sand on heapes so as it may seeme to have dammed up this mouth also Neither will it be prejudiciall to the Truth if I should name our Yarmouth GARIANONUM being so neere adjoyning as it is unto the old Garianonum considering that Gorienis the River whence it tooke the name having now changed his chanell entreth into the maine Sea a little beneath this Towne which it hath also given name unto For I must needs confesse that this our Yarmouth is of later memory For when that ancient Garianonum aforesaid was decayed and there was no Garrison to defend the Shore Cerdick a warlike Saxon landed here whereupon the Inhabitants at this day call the place Cerdick-sand and the Writers of Histories Cerdick-shore and after hee had made sore war upon the Iceni tooke Sea and sailed from hence into the West parts where he erected the Kingdome of the West Saxons And not long after the Saxons in stead of Garianonum founded a new Towne in that moist and waterish ground neer the West side of the River and named it Yarmouth But finding the Situation thereof not to be healthfull they betooke themselves to the other side of the River called then of the same Cerdicke Cerdick-sand and built this new Towne in which there flourished in King Edward the Confessour his daies 70. Burgesses as wee finde recorded in the Notitia of England After this about the yeare of our Redemption 1340. the Townesmen strengthned it with a wall and in short space it grew so rich and puissant that oftentimes in seafights they set upon their neighbors of Lestoffe yea and the Portmen for so termed they the Inhabitants of the Cinque Ports not without much bloud shed on both sides For they were most spitefully bent against them haply for being excluded out of the number of the Cinque Ports and deprived of these priviledges which old Garianonum or Yarmouth and their Ancestours enjoyed under the Comes of the Saxon Shore in elder times But this their stoutnesse was repressed at length and taken downe by the Kings Authority or as some thinke their lusty courage became abated by that most grievous and lamentable plague which in one yeare within this one little Towne brought 7000. to their graves The which is witnessed by an ancient Latine Chronographicall Table hanging up in the Church wherein are set downe also their warres with the Portmen and Lestoffians aforesaid Since that time their hearts have not beene so haughty nor their wealth so great to make them bold howbeit painfully they follow the trade of Merchandise and taking of Herrings which the learned thinke to bee Chalcides and Leucomaewides a kinde of fish more plentifull heere than in any other Coast of the world againe For it may seeme incredible how great a Faire and with what resort of people is holden heere at the Feast of Saint Michael and what store of Herrings and other fish is then bought and sold. At which time they of the Cinque Ports abovesaid by an old order and custome appoint their Bailiffs Commissioners and send them hither who that I may speake out of their owne Patent or Commission together with the Magistrates of this Towne during the time of the free Faire hold a Court for matters concerning the Faire doe execute the Kings Iustice and keepe the Kings peace As for the Haven below the Towne it is very commodious both for the inhabitants and for Norwich-men also but for feare that it should be barred and stopped up they wrestle as it were to their great cost and charges with the maine Sea which to make them amends and to restore what it hath eaten and swallowed up elsewhere in this Shore hath by heaping of earth and sand together cast up here of late a prety Island At this mouth also another River which some call Thyrn sheddeth it selfe together with Yare into the sea This River springing up neere unto Holt a towne so called of an
of pompe for a gallant shew Verily of our Nation therâ— be none that apply their mindes so seriously as they doe to husbandry which Columella termeth the neere cozin of Wisedome whether you respect their skill therein or their ability to beare the expences and their willing mind withall to take the paines Henry of Huntingdon before named calleth it a Village in his daies not unlovely and truly writeth that in times past it had been a noble City For to say nothing of Roman peeces of coine oftentimes there ploughed up nor of the distance in the old Itinerary the very signification of the name may probably prove that this was the very same City which Antonine the Emperor termed DUROLIPONTE amisse in stead of DUROSIPONTE For Durosi-ponte pardon me I pray you for changing one letter soundeth in the British tongue A bridge over the water Ose. And that this River is named indifferently and without distinction Vse Ise Ose and Ouse all men confesse But when this name was under the Danes quite abolished it began to be called Gormoncester of Gormon the Dane unto whom after agreement of peace King Aelfred granted these Provinces Hereto this old Verse giveth testimony Gormonis à castri nomine nomen habet Gormonchester at this howre Takes the name of Gormons Towre This is that Gormon of whom John Picus an old Author writeth in this wise King Aelfred conquered and subdued the Danes so that they gave what hostages hee would for assurance either to be packing out of the Land or else to become Christians Which thing also was effected For their King Guthrum whom they call Gormond with thirty of his Nobles and well neere all his people was baptized and adopted by Aelfred as his Sonne and by him named Athelstan Whereupon he remained heere and the Provinces of the East-English and of the Northumbrians were given to him that continuing in his allegiance under the Kings protection he might cherish and also maintain them as his inheritance which he had formerly overrun with spoile and robbery Neither would this be omitted that some also of those ancient Writers have termed this place Gumicester and Gumicastrum avoucheth withall that Machutus a Bishop had heere his Episcopall See And by the name of Gumicester King Henry the Third granted it to his sonne Edmund Earle of Lancaster Ouse making haste speedily from hence when he was about to enter into Cambridgeshire passeth through most delightsome medowes hard by a proper and faire towne which sometime in the English-Saxon tongue was called Slepe and now S. Ives of Ivo a Persian Bishop who as they write about the yeare of Christ 600. travailed through England preached diligently the Word of God and to this Towne wherein he left this life left also his name From whence notwithstanding shortly after the religious persons translated his body to Ramsey Abbay Turning aside from hence scarce three miles wee saw Somersham a faire dwelling house of late dayes belonging to the Bishops of Ely which Earle Brithnot in the yeare 991. gave to Ely Church and James Stanley the lavish and expencefull Bishop enlarged with new buildings A little above that most wealthy Abbay Ramsey was situate amiddest the Fennes where the Rivers become standing waters when they have once found a soft kinde of Soile The description of this place have here if it please you out of the private History of this Abbay Ramsey that is The Rams Isle on the West side for on other sides fennish grounds through which one cannot passe stretch out farre and wide is severed from the firme ground almost two bow-shots off by certaine uneven and quaggy miry plots Which place being wonâ— in times past to receive gently within the bosome and brinkes thereof Vessels arriving there with milde gales of winde in a shallow River onely now through great labour and cost after the foule and dirty quagmires aforesaid were stopped up with heapes of wood gravell and stones together men may passe into on foote on the same side upon a dry causey and it lieth out in length almost two miles but spreadeth not all out so much in bredth which notwithstanding is beset round about with beautifull rowes of Alder-trees and reed plots that with fresh greene canes and streight bulrushes among make a faire and pleasant shew and before it was inhabited garnished and bedecked all over with many sorts of trees but of wilde Ashâ—s especially in great aboundance But now after longer tract of time part of these groves and woods being cut downe it is become arable ground of a very fat and plentifull mould for fruit rich pleasant for corne planted with gardens wealthy in pastures and in the Spring time the medowes arraied with pleasant flowers smile upon the beholders and the whole Island seemeth embroidered as it were with variety of gay colours Besides that it is compassed all about with Meres full of Eeles and pooles replenished with fish of many sorts and with fowle there bred and nourished Of which Meres one is called after the name of the Island Ramsey Mere farre excelling all the other waters adjoyning in beauty and fertility on that side where the Isle is counted bigger and the wood thicker flowing daintily by the sandy banke thereof yeeldeth a very delectable sight to behold in the very gulfes whereof by casting as well of great wide mashed nets as of other sorts by laying also of hookes baited and other instruments devised by fishers craft are caught oftentimes and drawne certaine Pikes of an huge and wonderfull bignesse which the Inhabitants call Hakeds and albeit the fowlers doe continually haunt the place and catch great store of young water-fowle yet there is abundance alwaies that remaineth untaken Furthermore that History sheweth at large how Ailwin a man of the bloud royall and for the speciall great authority and favour that hee had with the King sirnamed Healf-Koning that is Halfe King being admonished and mooved thereunto by a Fishers dreame built it how Oswald the Bishop furthered and enlarged it how Kings and others endowed it with so faire revenewes that for the maintenance of threescore Monkes it might dispend by the yeare seven thousand pounds of our English money But seeing it is now pulled downe and destroyed some may thinke I have already spoken overmuch thereof Yet hereto I will annexe out of the same Authour the Epitaph of Ailwins Tombe for that it exhibiteth unto us an unusuall and strange title of a Dignity HIC REQUIESCIT AILWINUS INCLITI REGIS EADGARI COGNATUS TOTIUS ANGLIAE ALDERMANNUS ET HUJUS SACRI COENOBII MIRACULOSUS FUNDATOR HERE RESTETH AILWIN COZIN TO THE NOBLE KING EADGAR ALDERMAN OF ALL ENGLAND AND OF THIS HOLY ABBAY THE MIRACULOUS FOUNDER From hence to Peterborough which is about ten miles off King Canutus because travailing that way and finding it very combersome by reason of swelling Brookes and sloughs with great cost and labour made a paved Causey which
our Historians call Kings-delfe not farre from that great Lake Wittlesmere And as this Abbay did adorne the East side of the Shire so the middle thereof was beautified by Salâ—rie which the second Simon de Sancto Lizio Earle of Huntingdon built From which not farre is Cunnington holden anciently of the Honour of Huntingdon where within a foure square Trench are to be seene expresse remaines of an ancient Castle which as also Saltrie was by the gift of Canutus the seat of Turkill that Dane who abode heere among the East English and sent for Sueno King of Denmarke to make spoile of England After whose departure Waldeof the sonne of Siward Earle of Northumberland enjoyed it who married Judith Niece to William the Conquerour by his sister on the mothers side by whose eldest daughter it came to the royall family of Scotland For she by a second marriage matched with David Earle of Huntingdon who afterwards obtained the Kingdome of Scotland being the younger sonne of Malcolm Can-mor King of Scots and of Margaret his wife descended of the royall line of the English-Saxons For shee was Niece to King Edmund Iron-side by his sonne Edward sirnamed The Banished David had a sonne named Henry and Henry had another named David Earle of Huntingdon by one of whose daughters Isabel Cunnington and other lands by right of marriage descended to Sir Robert Bruse from whose eldest sonne Robert sirnamed the Noble James King of Great Britaine lineally deriveth his Descent and from Bernard his younger sonne unto whom this Cunnington with Exton fell Sir Robert Cotton Knight is lineally descended who over and beside other vertues being a singular lover and searcher of Antiquities having gathered with great charges from all places the Monuments of venerable Antiquity hath heere begunne a famous Cabinet whence of his singular courtesie hee hath oftentimes given me great light in these darksome obscurities But these Quarters considering the ground lying so low and for many moneths in the yeare surrounded and drowned in some places also floting as it were and hoven up with the waters are not free from the offensive noisomnesse of Meres and the unwholesome aire of the Fennes Here for sixe miles in length and three in breadth that cleare deepe and fishfull Mere named Wittles-mere spreadeth it selfe which as other Meres in this Tract doth sometimes in Calmes and faire weather sodainly rise tempestuously as it were into violent water-quakes to the danger of the poore fishermen by reason as some thinke of evaporations breaking violently out of the bowels of the earth As for the unhealthinesse of the place whereunto onely strangers and not the natives there are subject who live long and healthfully there is amends made as they account it by the commodity of fishing the plentifull feeding and the abundance of turfe gotten for fewell For King Cnut gave commandement by Turkill the Dane of whom ere while I spake That to every Village standing about the Fennes there should bee set out a severall Marsh who so divided the ground that each Village by it selfe should have in proper use and occupation so much of the very maine Marsh as the firme ground of every such Village touched the Marsh lying just against it And be ordained that no Village might either digge or mow in the Marsh of another without licence but that the pasture therein should lye all in common that is Horne under horne for the preservation of peace and concord among them But thus much of this matter When the sonnes and servants of the said King Cnut sent for from Peterborough to Ramsey were in passing over that Lake There fell upon them as they were cheerefull under saile and lifting up their voices with joyfull shoutings most untoward and unhappy windes wherewith a turbulent and tempestuous storme arose that enclosed them on every side so that laying aside all hope they were in utter despaire of their life security or any helpe at all But such was the mercifull clemency of Almighty God that it forsooke them not wholy nor suffered the most cruell Gulfe of the waters to swallow them up all quite but by his providence some of them he delivered mercifully out of those furious and raging waves but others againe according to his just and secret judgement he permitted amiddest those billowes to passe out of this fraile and mortall life And when the fame of so fearefull a danger was noised abroad and come to the Kings eares there fell a mighty trembling and quaking upon him but being comforted and releeved by the counsaile of his Nobles and freinds for to prevent in time to come all future mishaps by occasion of that outragious monster hee ordained that his souldiers and servants with their swords and skeins should set out and marke a certaine Ditch in the Marishes lying thereby betweene Ramsey and Whittlesey and afterwards that workemen and labourers should skoure and clense them whereupon as I have learned of ancient predecessours of good credite the said Ditch by some of the neighbour Inhabitants tooke the name Swerdesdelfe upon that marking out by swords and some would have it to bee termed Cnouts-delfe according to the name of the same King Yet commonly at this day they call it Steeds dike and it is counted the limit and bound between this County and Cambridge-shire In the East side of this Shire Kinnibantum Castle now called Kimbolton the habitation in times past of the Mandevilles afterwards of the Boâ—uns and Staffords and at this day of the Wingfields doth make a faire shew Under which was Stoneley a prety Abbay founded by the Bigrames A little from hence is Awkenbury which King John gave to David Earle of Huntingdon and John sirnamed the Scot his sonne unto Sir Stephen Segrave of whom I am the more willing to make mention for that he was one of those Courtiers who hath taught us That there is no power alwaies powerfull Hardly and with much adoe hee climbed to an eminent and high estate with great thought and care hee kept it and as sodainely hee was dejected from it For in his youth of a Clerke he became a Knight and albeit hee was but of meane parentage yet through his industry toward his later dayes so enriched and advanced that being ranged with the great Peeres of the Realme hee was reputed chiefe Justice of England and managed at his pleasure after a sort all the affaires of State But in the end he lost the Kings favour quite and to his dying day lay close in a Cloyster and who before time from a Clerkship betooke himselfe through arrogancy to secular service returning againe to the office of a Clerke resumed the shaven crowne which hee had forsaken without the counsell and advise of the Bishop Not farre from hence is Leighton where Sir Gervase Clifton knight lately made Baron Clifton beganne to build a goodly house and close to it lyeth Spaldwicke
which his brother had begunne which through the helpe of his brother Aetheldred of Kineburga also and Kineswith his sisters being fully finished in the yeere of our Lord 633. hee consecrated unto Saint Peter endowed it with ample Revenewes and ordained Sexwulft a right godly and devout man who principally advised him to this worke the first Abbat thereof This Monastery flourished afterward and had the name and opinion in the world of great holinesse for the space of two hundered and foureteene yeeres or thereabout untill those most heavie and wofull times came of the Danes who made spoile and waste of all For then were the Monkes massacred and the Monastery quite overthrowne lay buryed as one would say many yeeres together in the owne rubbish and ruines At the last about the yeere of our Lord 960. Ethelwold Bishop of Winchester who wholy gave himselfe to the furtherance of monasticall profession began to reedifie it having the helping hand especially of King Eadgar and Adulph the Kings Chancellour who upon a pricke of conscience and deepe repentance for that hee and his wife together lying in bed asleepe had overlaid and smothred the little infant their onely sonne laid upon the reedifying of this monastery all the wealth he had and when it was thus rebuilt he became Abbat thereof From which time it was of high estimation and name partly for the great riches it had and in part for the large priviledges which it enjoyed although in the reigne of William the Conquerour Herward an Englishman being proclaimed traitour and outlawed made a rode out of the Isle of Ely and rifled it of all the riches that it had gathered together against whom Turold the Abbot erected the fort Mont-Turold Yet was it esteemed exceeding wealthy even unto our fathers daies when King Henry the Eighth thrust out the Monkes in all places alleaging that they declining from the ordinances which those holy and ancient Monkes held wasted in riot and excesse the goods of the Church which was the Patrimony and inheritance of the poore and in their places erected here a Bishopricke assigning thereunto this county and Rutland-shire for his Diocese and placed withall a Deane and certaine Prebendaries So that of a Monastery it became a Cathedrall Church which if you well consider the building is for the very antiquity thereof goodly to behold The forefront carieth a majesty with it and the Cloisters are very large in the glasse-windowes whereof is represented the history of Wolpher the founder with the succession of the Abbots Saint Maries Chappell is a goodly large building full of curirious worke and the quire faire wherein two as infortunate Queenes as any other Katherine of Spaine repudiated by King Henry the Eighth and Mary Queene of Scotland being enterred found rest and repose there from all their miseries Beneath Peterburgh the river Aufon or Nen which by this time is gone from his spring-head much about forty five miles and carrieth along with him all rils brookes and land flouds occasioned by raine that he hath taken into his chanels is divided sundry waies And finding no way to cary his streame by spreading his waters all abroad in winter time yea and other whiles most part of the yeere overfloweth all the plaine country so as it seemeth to be nothing but a vast sea lying even and levell with some few Islands that beare up their heads and appeare aboue the water The cause of such inundation the people inhabiting thereby alleage to be this for that of the three chanels or draines by which so great store of water was wont to be issued into the sea the first that went directly into the sea by Thorney Abbay and then a part by Clow Crosse and Crowland the second also by the trench cut out by Morton Bishop of Ely called the New leam and then by Wisbich have a long time been forlet and neglected and so the third which goeth downe by Horsey-bridge Witlesmer Ramsey-mere and Salters-load is not able to receive so much water whereby it breaketh forth with more violence upon the flats adjoyning And the country complaineth for trespasse done unto them as well by those that have not scoured the said draines as by them that have turned the same aside to their private uses and as the Reatines said some time so doe they That Nature herselfe hath well provided for mans use in that she hath given all rivers their courses and issues and as well their-inlets into the Sea as their heads and springs But thus much of this matter may seeme to some over-much In this place is the County least in breadth for betweene Nen and the River Welland the one limit on the North side there are scarce five miles Upon Welland which Aethelward an old writer called Weolod neere unto the spring head is Braibrock Castle built by Robert May aliàs De Braybroke a most inward minion of King John whose sonne Henry having married Christian Ledet an inheritrice of a great estate his eldest sonne adopted himselfe into the surname of the Ledet from one of whose Nieces by his sonne as I said before it came unto the Latimers and by them unto the Griphins whose inheritance now it is Neere unto it among the woods I saw some few reliques of a Monastery called in times past De Divisis and afterward Pipwell which William Buttevillein founded in the reigne of Henry the Second for Cistertian Monkes From thence might Rockingham bee seene were it not for the woods a Castle sometime of the Earles of Aumarle built by King William the Conqueror at what time it was a wast as we finde in his Domesday booke fortified with Rampier and Bulwarkes and a duple range of Battlements situate upon the side of an hill within a woody Forest which thereupon is named Rockingham Forest. After this it runneth beside Haringworth the seat in old time of the Cantlows and now of the Lord Zouch who descended from Eudo a younger sonne of Alan de la Zouch of Ashby De la Zouch have growne up to a right honourable Family of Barons whose honour and state was much augmented by marriage with one of the heires of Cantlow as also with an other of Baron Saint Maur who likewise drew his Pedegree from the heire of the Lord Zouch de Ashby and the Lovels Lords of Castel-Cary in Somersetshire Here also I saw Deane belonging in ancient times to the Deanes afterwards to the Tindals which place is worth the remembrance if it were but for this that it is now a proper and faire dwelling house of the Brudenells out of which Family Sir Edmund Brudenell late deceased was a passing great lover and admirer of venerable Antiquity The Family likewise of Engain which was both ancient and honourable had their seat hereby at Blatherwic where now the Staffords of knights degree inhabite who descended from Ralph the first Earle of Stafford and those Engaines changed their
we may see in the Histories whether by celestiall influence or other hidden causes I leave to the learned But so farre as I could hitherto reade it did never set foote in England before that time Besides these places before named of great name and marke wee must not overpasse neither Melton Mowbray neere unto this Burton a Mercate Towne bearing name of the Mowbraies sometime Lords thereof wherein is nothing more worth the seeing than a faire Church nor Skeffington standing farther off which as it hath given name to a worshipfull Family so againe it hath received worship and credit from the same The River that watereth this part of the Shire is by the Inhabitants about it called the Wreken along which upon resemblance of the name I have sought VERNOMETUM but in vaine This Wreken gathereth a strong streame by many lively Brookes resorting unto it whereof one passeth by Wimondham an ancient habitation of a younger branch of the house of the Lords Barkleis well encreased by an heire of Dela-Laund and so on by Melton Mowbray before mentioned by Kirkby Bellers where there was a Priory having that addition of the Bellers a respective rich and noble Family in their time by Brokesby a seat now of the Villiers of an old Norman race and descended from an heire of Bellers which Brokesby imparted formerly the sirname to the Brokesbies of especiall antiquity in these parts Then the Wreken speedeth by Ratcliffe high mounted upon a cliffe and within few miles conjoyneth it selfe to Soar neere unto Mont-Soar-hill before mentioned Whatsoever of this Shire lieth beyond the Wreken Northward is not so frequently inhabited and part of it is called the Wold as being hilly without wood wherein Dalby a seat of the old Family of the Noels of whom I shall speake elsewhere and Waltham on the Wold a meane Mercat are most notable Through this part as I have beene enformed passeth the Fosse-way made by the Romans from Lewing Bridge by Segrave which gave sirname to the honourable Family often mentioned and the Lodge on the Wold toward the Vale of Bever but the Tract thereof as yet I know not This Shire hath beene more famous from time to time by reason of the Earles thereof have beene very renowned And seeing it had under the Saxons government Earles by inheritance I will first reckon them up in order as Thomas Talbot a skilfull Antiquary hath delivered me a note of them out of the kings Records In the time of Aethelbald King of the Mercians and in the yeere of our Redemption 716. Leofrick was Earle of Leicester whom there succeeded in direct line Algar the first Algar the second Leofrick the second Leofstane Leofrick the third buried in Coventry Algar the third who had issue two sonnes Aeadwin Earle of March Morkar Earle of Northumberland and a daughter named Lucy first married to Ivon Talboys of Anjou afterwards to Roger of Romara who begat of her William of Romara Earle of Lincolne Now when as the issue male of this Saxon Family failed and the name of the Saxons was troden as it were under foot Robert Beaumont a Norman Lord of Pont Audomar and Earle of Mellent after that Simon an officiary Earle of Leicester was dead obtained his Earledome in the yeere of our Lord 1102. at the bountifull hand of King Henry the First which Robert A man for skill and knowledge excellent faire spoken subtile wise and witty and by nature wily who while hee lived in high and glorious estate an other Earle carried away his wife from him whereupon in his old age being much troubled in minde he fell into deepe melancholy After him succeeded from father to sonne three Roberts the first sirnamed Bossu because hee was crook-backed who after he had rebelled against King Henry the First weary of his loose irregular life became a Chanon Regular the second sirnamed Blanch-maines of his lily-white-hands who sided with the young King against King Henry the Second and dyed in the expedition of King Richard the First to the Holy Land the third sirnamed Fitz-Parnell because his mother was Parnels daughter and one of the heires to Hugh Grant-maismill the last in whose right hee was Seneschall or Steward of England and died issuelesse in the time of King John A few yeeres after Simon Montfort descended from a base sonne of Robert King of France who had married the sister of Robert Fitz-Parnell enjoyed this honour But after that hee and his were expelled in the yeere 1200. as wholy devoted to the French Ranulph Earle of Chester attained unto this Dignity not in right of inheritance but by his Princes favour Howbeit afterwards Simon Montfort sonne of the foresaid Simon obtained this honour when Almarik his eldest brother surrendred up his right before King Henry the Third This Simon stood in so gracious favour with King Henry the Third that hee called him home againe out of France when he was banished heaped upon him great wealth admitted him unto the Earledome of Leicester granted to him the Stewardship of England and to honour him the more gave him his owne sister in marriage But hee thus over-heaped with honourable benefits when he had no meanes to requite them such is the perverse wilfulnesse of men beganne hatefully to maligne him yea and did most wickedly molest the good King having so well deserved making himselfe Ringleader to the rebellious Barons and with them raising horrible tempests of civill warre in which himselfe also at length was overthrowne and slaine As for his Honours and Possessions King Henry the Third gave and graunted them to Edmund his owne younger sonne Earle of Lancaster So afterward this honour lay as it were obscured among the Titles of the house of Lancaster and Mawde the daughter of Henry Duke of Lancaster being married to Henry Duke of Bavaria Earle of Henault Holland Zeland c. added unto his other Titles this of Earle of Leicester also For in the Charter dated the five and thirty yeere of King Edward the Third hee is in plaine termes stiled William Earle of Henhault and of Leicester yea and as we finde in the Inquisition made Anno 36. of the said King Edward the Third shee by the name of Dutchesse of Bavaria held the Castle Manour and Honour of Leicester After whose decease without issue that honour reverted to John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster who had wedded Blanch the other sister of Mawde From which time it became united to the House of Lancaster untill in our remembrance it reflourished in L. Robert Dudley who was by Queene Elizabeth girt with the sword of the Earledome of Leicester and extraordinarily favoured whereupon the States Generall of the united Provinces in their great troubles chose him triumphantly for their absolute Governour and soone after as contemptuously rejected him reserving all Soveraignty to themselves But after a short time he passed out of this transitory life
in the yeere 1588. leaving the fame onely of his greatnesse behinde him Within this Shire are 200. Parish Churches RVTLANDIAE Omnium in Anglia Comitatu um minimus Pars olim CORITANORVM RUTLAND-SHIRE RUTLAND in the old English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 is environed within Leicester-shire unlesse it be on the South-side where it lieth upon the river Welland and on the East-side where it butteth upon Lincoln-shire A Country nothing inferiour to Leicester-shire either in fruitfull qualitie of soile or pleasantnesse but in quantitie onely as being the least County of all England For lying in forme almost round like a circle it is in compasse so farre about as a light horseman will ride in one day Whence it is that the Inhabitants tell a tale of I wote not what king who should give to one Rut so much land as he could ride about in one day and that he forsooth rode about this shire within the time appointed and so had it given him and named it by his owne name Rutland But let such fables bee packing I would not have the trueth prejudiced with an extravagant tale And where as the earth in this shire is every where red and so red that even the sheepes fleeces are thereby coloured red whereas also the English-Saxons called Red in their tongue Roet and Rud may we not suppose that this Countrey was named Rutland as one would say a Redland For as saith the Poet. Conveniunt rebus nomina saepè suis. The names as often times we see With things themselves full well agree Now that places in all Nations have had their names of rednesse Rutlan Castle in Wales built on a shore of red earth Redbay Redhill Redland The Red Promontory The Red-Sea also betwixt Aegypt and Arabia Erytheia in Ionia and a number besides may proove most evidently So that there is no cause why we should give credit to fables in this behalfe As for this little County it may seeme to have beene ordained a Shire or County but of late daies For in King Edward the Confessors time it was counted a part of Northampton-shire and our Historiographers who wrote three hundred yeeres agoe and upward reckoned it not in the number of Shires Wash or Guash a little river which runneth from the West Eastward through the middle of it divideth it in twaine In the hithermore or South part riseth Uppingham upon an high ascent whence that name was imposed not memorable for any thing else but because it is counted a well frequented Mercat towne and hath for to shew a proper Schoole which together with another at Okeham R. Ihonson a Minister of Gods word in a good and laudable intent for the training up of children in good literature lately erected with the money he had gotten together by way of collection Under this standeth Drystoke which in no wise is to be passed over with silence considering it hath been the habitation from old time of a right ancient race of the Digbyes which I grieve to utter it but all men know it hath now caught a deepe steine by Sir Everard Digby drawne into that cursed crew who most horribly complotted with one divelish flash of hellish Gun-pouder to blow up both Prince and Country More Eastward upon the river Welland I saw nothing remarkeable unlesse it be Berohdon now Barodon which Thomas Beauchamp Earle of Warwicke held with South Leffingham now South Luffenham and other Hamelets by service to be the Kings Chamberlaine in the Exchequer On the further part beyond the river among the hils there spreadeth below a very pleasant and fruitfull vale named at this day The vale of Catmose happily of Coet maes which signifieth in the Brittish tongue a field full of woods In the middest whereof Okeham sheweth it selfe which by the like reason may seeme to have taken the name from Okes where hard by the Church which is large and faire remaine the crackt and decaying walls of an old Castle which Walkelin de Ferrariâ—s built in the first times of the Norman Kings And that it hath been the dwelling place of the Ferrars besides the credit of writers and generall report the great horse shoes which in times past that family gave in their armes fastned upon the gate and in the hall may sufficiently proove Afterwards it belonged to the Lords of Tatteshall But when King Richard the second had promoted Edward the Duke of Yorkes sonne to the Earledome of Rutland he gave unto him this Castle also But within our Fathers remembrance it befell unto Thomas Cromwel and was reputed the seat of his Baronie whom King Henry the Eighth advanced to the highest pitch of dignity and streightwaies when by his plotting and attempting of many matters he had cast himselfe into the tempestuous stormes of envy and displeasure bereft him on a sudden both of life and dignity Over against it Eastward there standeth Burley most daintily seated and overlooking the vale A stately and sumptuous house now of the Haringtons who by marrying the daughter and heire of Colepeper became Lords of so faire an inheritance that ever since they have flourished in these parts like as before time the Colepepers had done unto whom by N. Green the wealthy and goodly Livelod of the Bruses in part had descended As for those Bruses being men of the chiefe Nobility in England they were engraffed into the Roiall stocke and family of Scotland out of whom by Robert the eldest brother the race Roiall of Scotland are sprung-like as by Bernard the younger brother the Cottons of Connington in Huntingdon-shire of whom I have written already and these Haringtons In which regard and gracious respect King James advanced Sir Iohn Harington branched from that stem that the ancient Lords Harington to the title of Baron Harington of Exton a towne adjacent where he hath also an other faire house Moreover on the East side by the river Guash stands Brigcasterton whereof I will say more afterward and Rihall where when superstition had so bewitched our ancestours that the multitude of their pety Saints had well neere taken quite away the true God one Tibba a pety Saint or Goddesse reputed to bee the tutelar patronesse of Hauking was of Foulers and Faulkoners worshipped as a second Diana Essendon also is neere adjoyning the Lord whereof Sir Robert Cecil a good sonne of a right good father the strength and stay of our Common-wealth in his time was by King James created Baron Cecil of Essendon in the first yeere of his reigne This little County King Edward the Confessor by his last Will and Testament bequeathed unto his wife Eadith yet with this condition that after her death it should come to S. Peter of Westminster For these be the very words of the said Testament I will that after the death of Queene Eadith my wife ROTELAND with all the appertenances thereto be given to my Monastery of the most blessed
spirituall benefits in that Church as praiers blessings c. and so when he had entertained them with a very sumptuous feast hee gave them his blessing and dismissed them chearefully every man to his owne home But I will dwell no longer in this matter But hereby you may see how by small contributions great workes arose From Crowland there goeth a Cawsey planted on both sides with Willowes betweene the River Welland and the deepe Marishes Northward upon which two miles from Crowland I saw the fragment of a Piramis with this Inscription 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 I SAY THAT SAINT GUTHLAKE THIS STONE HIS BOVND DOTH MAKE Higher yet upon the same River is seated Spalding enclosed round about with Riverets and draines a fairer Towne I assure you than a man would looke to finde in this Tract among such slabbes and water-plashes where Ivo Talbois whom Ingulph elsewhere calleth Earle of Anjou gave an ancient Cell to the Monkes of Angiers in France From hence as farre as to Deeping which is ten miles off Egelrick Abbat of Crowland afterwards Bishop of Durham made for the ease of travailers as saith Ingulphus through the middest of a vast Forest and of most deepe Fennes a sound causey of wood and sand after his owne name called Elrich-road which notwithstanding at this day is not to be seene In higher Hoiland that bendeth more into the North first we have in sight Kirkton so named of the Church which is passing faire and then where the River Witham hemnd in strongly with bankes on both sides runneth in a maine and full streame toward the sea flourisheth Boston more truely named Botolphs-towne For it carried that name from one Botolph a most holy and devout Saxon who at Icanhoe had a Monastery A famous Towne this is standing on both sides of the River Witham which hath over it a wooden bridge of a great height and well frequented by the meanes of a commodious haven unto it the Mercat place is faire and large and the Church maketh a goodly shew as well for the beautifull building as the greatnesse thereof the towre-steeple of it which riseth up to a mighty height doth as one would say salute passengers and travailers a great way off and giveth direction also to the sailers A lamentable overthrow it sustained in the Raigne of Edward the first For when bad and Ruffian-like behaviour rufled at that time over all England certaine military lusty fellowes having proclaimed heere a Justs or running at Tilt at a Faire time when there was much resort of people thither came apparelled in the habit of Monkes and Chanons set fire on the Towne in most places thereof brake in upon Merchants with sodaine violence tooke away many things by force burnt a great deale more in so much as our Historians write that as the ancient Writers record of Corinth when it was destroied molten gold and silver ran downe in a streame together The Ring-leader Robert Chamberlan after hee had confessed the act and what a shamefull deed had been committed was hanged yet could he not be wrought by any meanes to disclose his complices in this foule fault But happier times raised Boston againe out of the ashes and a staple for wooll here setled did very much enrich it and drew thither merchants of the Hanse Society who had here their Guild At this day it is for building faire and by good trade rich For the Inhabitants give themselves both to merchandise and also to grasing Nere unto this was the Barony de Croeun or de Credonio out of which family Alan de Croeun founded the Priory of Freston and at length Parnel heire of the family being twice married transferred no small inheritance first to the Longchamps which came to the Pedwardins and secondly to John Vaulx from whom the Barons Roos are descended Beyond it scarce six miles reacheth Holland all which Ivo Talboys of Anjo◠received at the bountifull hands of king William the Conqueror but Herward an English man of good hope and full of douty courage being sonne to Leofrick Lord of Brane or Burne not brooking his insolency when he saw his owne and his Country mens safety now endangered after he had received the cincture with a military Belt by Brann Abbat of Peterborough whose stomacke rose also against the Normans raised warre against him oftentimes put him to flight and at length carried him away captive and suffered him not to bee ransomed but with such conditions that he might be received into the Kings favour wherein he dyed his liege man For so deserved his valour which is alwayes commended even in a very enemy His Daughter being wedded to Hugh Enermeve Lord of Deping enjoyed his lands which afterwards as I understand was devolved upon the Family of Wake which being mightily enriched with the Possessions of the Estotevills was of right great honour in these parts untill the Raigne of Edward the Second for then by an heire Generall their inheritance came by right of marriage unto Edmund of Woodstocke youngest sonne to King Edward the First and Earle of Kent But of a younger sonne the ancient Family of the Wakes of Blisworth in Northampton-shire yet remaining is descended The second part of this Country commonly called Kesteven and by Aethelward an ancient Authour Ceostefnewood adjoyning to Hoiland on the West side is for aire farre more wholesome and for Soile no lesse fruitfull Greater this is and larger than the other yea and garnished every where with more faire Townes At the entry thereinto upon the river Welland standeth Stanford in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 built of rough stone whence it hath the name A Towne well peopled and of great resort endowed also with sundry immunities and walled about It gave Geld or Tribute as wee reade in Domesday Booke for twelve hundreds and an halfe in the army shipping and Danegeld and in it were sixe Wards What time as King Edward the elder fortified the South bankes of Rivers against the Danes breaking by force into the Land out of the North parts Marianus recordeth that hee built a very strong Castle just over against this Towne also on the South banke which now is called Stanford Baron yet there appeareth not any one token thereof at this day for that Castle which in time of the civill Warre Stephen strengthened against Henry of Anjou was within the Towne as both the generall report holdeth and the very plot also whereon it stood as yet remaining sheweth But soone after the said Henry being now King of England gave the whole Towne of Stanford which was in his Demaine excepting the fees or Feifs of the Barons and Knights of the same Towne unto Richard de Humez or Homets who was Constable to the King his Soveraigne Lord for his homage and service And the same afterwards held William Earle of Warren by the will and pleasure of King John Under the
of the aforesaid came another Gilbert his sonne and heire who gave the Manour of Folkingham with the Appertenances to Edward the sonne of Henry King of England This Gilbert as wee finde in the Plees out of which this Pedegree is prooved claimed service against Wil. de Scremby And at length it came by gift of the Prince to Sir Henry Beaumont For most certaine it is that he held it in the Raigne of Edward the Second Neere unto this is Screkingham remarkable for the death of Alfrick the second Earle of Leicester whom Hubba a Dane slew Of which place it seemeth that Ingulph spake writing thus In Kesteven were slaine three great Lords or petty Kings of the Danes whom they buryed in a Village which was called before Laundon but now for the Sepulture of three Kings Tre-King-ham And more into the East is Hather in this regard onely to be mentioned that the Busseis or Busleis heere dwell who deduce their Race from Roger de Busly in the Conquerours time Then Sleford a Castle of the Bishops of Lincolne built by Alexander the Bishop where Sir John Hussy the first and last Baron of that name created by King Henry the Eighth built himselfe an house who having unwittingly and unadvisedly in the yeere 1537. engaged himselfe with the common people in a tumultuous commotion what time as the first dissention brake out in England about Religion lost his head Not many miles from hence standeth Kime which gave name to a noble family called De Kime but the possession of the place came at length to the Umfranvils of whom three were called to the Parliament by the name of the Earles of Anguse in Scotland But the first of them the learned in our common lawes would not acknowledge to be Earle for that Anguse was not within the limits of the Realme of England untill hee produced openly in Court the Kings Writ by vertue whereof he had been summoned by the King to the Parliament under the Title of Earle of Anguse From the Umfravils this came unto the family of Talbois of whom Gilbert was created by King Henry the Eighth Baron Talbois whose two sonnes dying without issue the inheritance was by the females transferred to the Dimocks Inglebeies and others More Westward wee saw Temple Bruer that is as I interprete it Temple in the Heath For it seemeth to have beene a Commaundery of the Templers considering that the decayed broken Walles of the Church there are seene in forme of the New Temple at London Hard to it lyeth Blankenay the Barony in times past of the D'incourts who flourished successively a long time one after another from the Normans comming in unto King Henry the Sixth his time For then their male line determined in one William who had two sisters for his heires the one married to Sir William Lovell the other to Sir Ralph Cromwell The more willingly have I made mention of this Family to give satisfaction in some measure unto the longing desire of Edmond Baron D'eincourt who long since being carefull and earnest about the preservation of the memory of his name as having no male Issue put up an humble Petition to King Edward the Second Whereas hee foresaw that his sirname and Armes after his death would bee quite forgotten and yet heartily desired that after his decease they might bee still remembred that hee might bee permitted to enfeoffe whomsoever it pleased him both in his Manours and Armes also Which request hee obtained and it was graunted under the Kings Letters Patents yet for all that is this sirname now quite gone to my knowledge and had it not beene continued by the light of learning might have beene cleane forgotten for ever In the West part of Kesteven and the very confines of this Shire and Leicestershire standeth Belvoir or Beauvoir Castle so called of the faire prospect what name soever it had in old time mounted upon the top of a good steepe hill built by Robert De Todeneie a Norman Nobleman who also beganne the little Monastery adjoyning from whom by the Albeneies out of little Britaine and the Barons Roos it came by inheritance to the Mannors Earles of Rutland of whom the first that is to say Thomas as I have beene enformed raised it up againe with newbuildings from the ground when as it had for many yeeres lien buryed as it were in his owne ruines For in despite of Thomas Lord Roos who tooke part with King Henry the Sixth it was much defaced by William Lord Hastings unto whom after that the said Baron Roos was attainted King Edward the Fourth had graunted it with very faire Lands But Edmond Baron Roos sonne of the said Thomas by the gracious favour of king Henry the seventh recovered this ancient Inheritance againe About this Castle are found the Stones called Astroites which resemble little Starres joyned one with another wherein are to bee seene at every corner five Beames or Rayes and in every Ray in the middest is small hollownesse This Stone among the Germanes got his name of Victorie for that as George Agricola writeth in his Sixth Booke of Mineralls they are of opinion that whosoever carryeth it about him shall winne his suite and get victory of his enemies But whether this Stone of ours as that in Germany being put in vineger will stirre out of his place and turne it selfe some-what round I could never yet make tryall Under this Castle lyeth a Vale and presenteth a most pleasant prospect thereunto whereupon it is commonly called the Vale of Belver which is very large and passing pleasantly beautified with Corne fields and no lesse rich in pastures lying stretched out in three Shires of Leicester Nottingham and Lincolne If not in this very place yet hard by it in all probability stood that MARGIDUNUM which Antonine the Emperour placeth next after VERNOMETUM as both the name and the distance also from VERNOMETUM and the Towne PONT or Paunton betweene which Antonine placeth it may most plainly shew It should seeme that ancient name Margidunum was borowed from Marga and the situation of it For Marga among the Britans is a kinde of earth named Marle wherewith they nourished and kept their grounds in heart and DUNUM which signifieth an Hill agreeth onely to places higher mounted than others And yet in this Etymology of the name I am in a doubt seeing that Marle in this place is very geason or skant happily because no man seeketh for it unlesse the Britans by the name of Marga tearmed Plaister-stone which is digged uppe hard by as I have learned the use whereof in white pargetting and in making of Images was of especiall request among the Romans as Plinie witnesseth in his Naturall History Witham a River plentifull in Pikes but carrying a small streame watereth this part of the Shire and on the North-side encloseth it It hath his beginning by a little towne
Saint late Bishop carried upon their shoulders to his buriall Howbeit the memory of two Prelates I must needs renew afresh the one is Robert Grosthead a man so well seene both in literature and in the learned tongues in that age as it is incredible and to use the words of one then living A terrible reproover of the Pope an adviser of his Prince and Soveraigne a lover of verity a corrector of Prelates a director of Priests an instructor of the Clergy a maintainer of Schollers a Preacher to the people a diligent searcher into the Scriptures a mallet of the Romanists c. The other is mine owne Praeceptor whom in all duty I must ever love and honour that right reverend Father Thomas Cooper who hath notably well deserved both of all the learned and also of the Church in whose Schoole I both confesse and rejoice that I received education The City it selfe also flourished a long time being ordained by King Edward the Third for the Staple as they tearme it that is the Mart of Wooll Leather Lead c. Which although it hath not been over-laied with any grievous calamities as being once onely set on fire once also besieged in vaine by King Stephen who was there vanquished and taken prisoner forced also and won by King Henry the Third when the rebellious Barons who had procured Lewis of France to chalenge the Crowne of England defended it against him without any great dammage yet incredible it is how much it hath been empaired by little and little conquered as it were with very age and time so that of fifty Churches which it had standing in our Great-grandfathers daies there are now remaining scarce eighteene It is remooved that I may note this also from the Aequator 53. degrees and 12. scruples and from the West point 22. degrees and 52. scruples As that Street-way called Highdike goeth on directly from Stanford to Lincolne so from hence Northward it runneth with an high and streight causey though heere and there it be interrupted forward for ten miles space to a little Village called the Spittle in the Street and beyond By the which as I passed I observed moreover about three miles from Lincolne another High-port-way also called Ould-street to turne out of this High dike Westward carrying a bancke likewise evident to be seene which as I take it went to AGELOCUM the next baiting towne or place of lodging from LINDUM in the time of the Romanes But I will leave these and proceed in the course that I have begun Witham being now past Lincolne runneth downe not far from Wragbye a member of the Barony called Trusbut the title whereof is come by the Barons Roos unto the Mannours now Earles of Rutland Then approcheth it to the ruines of a famous Abbay in times past called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 commonly Bardney where Bede writeth that King Oswald was Entombed with a Banner of gold and purple hanged over his Tombe The writers in the foregoing age thought it not sufficient to celebrate the memory of this most Christian worthy King Oswald unlesse unto his glorious exploits they stitched also ridiculous miracles But that his hand remained heere uncorrupted many hundred yeeres after our Ancestours have beleeved and a Poet of good antiquity hath written in this wise Nullo verme perit nulla putredine tabet Dextra viri nullo constringi frigore nullo Dissolvi fervore potest sed semper eodem Immutata statu persistit mortua vivit The mans right hand by no worme perisht is No rottennesse doth cause it putrifie No binding cold can make it starke ywis Nor melting heat dissolve and mollifie But alwayes in one state persist it will Such as it was though dead it liveth still This Abbay as writeth Peter of Bloys being sometime burnt downe to the ground by the Danes furious outrage and for many revolutions of yeeres altogether forlorne that noble and devout Earle of Lincolne Gilbert de Gaunt reedified and in most thankfull affectionate minde assigned unto it with many other possessions the tithes of all his Manours wheresoever throughout England Then is Witham encreased with Ban a little River which out of the midst of Lindsey runneth downe first by Horne Castle which belonged in times past to Adeliza of Condie and was laid even with the ground in the Raigne of Stephen afterwards became a capitall seat of the Barony of Gerard de Rodes and pertaineth now as I have heard to the Bishop of Carlile From thence by Scrivelby a Manour of the Dimockes who hold it hereditarily devolved upon them from the Marmions by Sir J. Ludlow and that by service to use now the Lawyers words Of Grand Serjeanty viz. That whensoever any King of England is to bee crowned then the Lord of this Manour for the time being or some one in his name if himselfe bee unable shall come well armed for the warre mounted upon a good horse of service in presence of the Soveraigne Lord the King upon his Coronation day and cause Proclamation to bee made that if any man will avouch that the said Soveraigne Lord the King hath not right to his Kingdome and Crowne he will be prest and ready to defend the right of the King of his Kingdome of his Crowne and dignity with his body against him and all others whatsoever Somewhat lower The Ban at Tatteshall a little Towne standing in a Marish Country but very commodiously well knowne by reason of the Castle built for the most part of bricke and the Barons thereof runneth into Witham They write that Eudo and Pinso two Noblemen of Normandy loving one another entirely as sworne brethren by the liberall gift of King William the Conquerour received many Lordships and faire lands in this tract which they parted so as that Tatteshall fell to Eudo which he held by Barony from whose posterity it came by Dryby and the Bernacks unto Sir Raulph Cromwell whose sonne bearing the same name and being under King Henry the Sixth Lord Treasurer of England departed out of this world without issue but unto Pinso fell Eresby which is not farre off From whose progeny the inheritance descended by the Becks unto the Willoughbeies unto whom there came also an encrease both of honour and also of faire Livelods by their wives not onely from the Uffords Earles of Suffolke but also from the Lords of Welles who brought with them very faire possessions and lands of the family de Engain Lords of ancient Nobility and from the first comming in of the Normans of great power in these parts Among these Willoughbeis one excelled all the rest in the Raigne of Henry the Fifth named Sir Robert Willoughby who for his martiall prowesse was created Earle of Vandosme in France and from these by the mothers side descended Peregrine Berty Baron Willoughby of Eresby a man for his generous minde and military valour renowned
both in France and the Low-countries Witham now approching neere unto the Sea entertaineth out of the North another small namelesse River at the spring head whereof standeth Bollingbroke Castle situate upon a low ground and built of a soft and crumbling stone by William de Romara Earle of Lincolne taken from Alice Lacey by King Edward the Second because she married against his will and ennobled in that it was the Birth-place of King Henry the Fourth who thereof was named Henry of Bollingbroke At which time it beganne to be reckoned among those Honorable Manours which are termed Honours And Witham after it hath received this Riveret having passed through Boston as I have said dischargeth it selfe at length into the German Sea From the mouth of Witham the shore shutteth forth with a mighty swelling bent into the German Sea as farre as to Humber a great Arme of the Sea being every where slashed and indented with many small Washes and places which the salt water breaketh into and hath but few Townes upon it because there be few Havens there and the shelves or barres of sand lie every where anenst the land Yet of these few Townes which take up this Coast some be memorable and Wainefleet especially if it were but for this cause onely that it bred William Wainfleet Bishop of Winchester a worthy Prelat founder of Mawdlen College in Oxford a man that singularly well deserved of learning Then Alford which for the Mercate is beholden to Lion Lord Welles who obtained for it this priviledge from King Henry the Sixth This Family of Welles was very ancient and honourable and the last of that name had to wife a daughter of King Edward the Fourth and being by King Henry the Seventh created Vicount Welles died having no issue But the inheritance by the Females came to the Willoughbeys Dimockes De la Launds Hoes and others More inward are Driby and Ormesby neighbour Townes which gave sirnames to two great families in their times from the Dribyes descended the elder Lords Cromwell now determined and from Ormesbyes the house of Skipwith still continuing After this ye have Louth a little Mercate Towne well frequented which had the name of Lud a small River that runneth under Cokerington the capitall place in times past of the Barony of Scoteney And then Grimsby which our Sabins or conceited persons dreaming what they list and following their owne fansies will have to be so called of one Grime a Merchant who for that hee had brought up a little foundling of the Danes royall blood named Haveloke when it had beene cast forth to perish or to take his lucke or fortune is much talked of together with Haveloke that lucky foster-childe of his who having beene first a skullen in the Kings kitchin and afterwards promoted to the marriage of the Kings daughter for his heroicall valour in feates of Armes and I wot not what worthy exploits A narration right well beseeming and meetest for them that take pleasure to passe out the long nights with telling of old wives tales But the honour and ornament of this place was the right reverend Doctour Whitgift late Archbishop of Canterbury a peerelesse Prelate for piety and learning in our daies Scarce six miles from hence more within the country there sheweth it selfe an ancient Castle which at this day is called Castor in the old English Saxons Tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and Thong-caster in British Caer Egarry in both languages it is aptly named so of the thing to wit of an hide cut into peeces like as Byrsa that Castle or Citadell of the Carthaginians so well knowne For our Annales record that Hengist the Saxon after he had vanquished the Picts and Scots and received very large possessions in other places obtained also in this tract of Vortigern so much ground as hee could compasse round about with an Oxe hide cut out into very small laners that we call Thongs wherein he founded and built this Castle Whence it is that one who hath written in verse a Breviary of the British History turned Virgils verses in this maner AccepÃtque solum facti de nomine Thongum Taurino quantum poter at circundare tergo And ground he tooke which Thong he call'd when he did first begin As much as he a Bull hide cut could well enclose within From Grimsby the Shore draweth in with a great reach to make way for to admit Humber by Thornton a religious house in times past instituted for the Worship of God by William the Grosse Earle of Aumarle also by Barton where there is a very notable Ferry or passage over into York-shire Hard by Ankam a little muddy River and therefore full of Eeles emptieth it selfe into Humber neere unto the spring-head whereof is Merket-Rasin so called of a Mercate there well resorted unto Somewhat higher stands Angotby now corruptly called Osgodby belonging in times past to the family of Semarc from whom it descended hereditarily to the Airmins also Kelsay a Lordship in old time of the Hansards men of great name in this shire from whom in right of the wives it came to the family of the Ascoghs Knights But after this Ankam hath a bridge over it at Glanford a small Mercate Towne which the common people of the said bridge so commonly call Brigg that the true name is almost quite forgotten Next unto it within a Parke I saw Kettleby the seat of the worshipfull ancient family of the Tirwhits Knights descended from Grovil Oxenbridge and Echingham But in times past it was the habitation as a man may gather by the name of one Ketell which was in the time of the Saxons and Danes an usuall name For Bye in the English-Saxon language signifieth A dwelling place and Byan To dwell whence it is that so many places both elsewhere in England and heere especially in this Shire doe end in Bie All this Tract-over at certaine seasons good God what store of fowles to say nothing of fishes is heere to be found I meane not those vulgar birds which in other places are highly esteemed and beare a great price as Teales Quailes Woodcockes Phesants Partridges c. but such as we have no Latine names for the very delicate dainties indeed of service meates for the Demigods and greatly sought for by these that love the tooth so well I meane Puitts Godwitts Knotts that is to say Canutus or Knouts birds for out of Denmarke they are thought to fly thither Dotterels so named of their dotish foolishnesse which being a kinde of birds as it were of an apish kinde ready to imitate what they see done are caught by candle light according to fowlers gesture if he put forth an arme they also stretch out a wing sets he forward his legge or holdeth up his head they likewise doe theirs in briefe what ever the fowler doth the same also doth this foolish bird untill it bee
hidden within the net But these things I leave to their observation who either take pleasure earnestly to hunt after Natures workes or being borne to pamper the belly delight to send their estates downe the throat More Westward the River Trent also after he hath ended his long course is received into the Humber after it hath with his sandy banke bounded this shire from Fossedike hither having runne downe first not farre from Stow where Godive the wife of Earle Leofricke built a Monastery which for the low site that it hath under the hills Henry of Huntingdon saith to have beene founded Vnder the Promontory of Lincolne Then neere unto Knath now the habitation of Baron Willoughy of Parrham in times past of the family of the Barons Darcy who had very much encrease both in honor and also of possessions by the daughter and heire of the Meinills This Family of the Darcyes proceeded from another more ancient to wit from one whose name was Norman de Adrecy or Darcy de Nocton who flourished in high reputation under King Henry the Third and whose successours endowed with lands the little Nunnery at Alvingham in this County But this dignity is as it were extinct for that the last Norman in the right line which is more ancient left behinde him onely two sisters of which the one was married to Roger Pedwardine the other to Peter of Limbergh Then runneth the Trent downe to Gainesborrow a towne ennobled by reason of the Danes ships that lay there at rode and also for the death of Suene Tiugs-Kege a Danish Tyrant who after he had robbed and spoiled the country as Matthew of Westminster writeth being heere stabbed to death by an unknowne man suffered due punishment at length for his wickednesse and villany Many a yeere after this it became the possession of Sir William de Valence Earle of Pembroch who obtained for it of king Edward the First the liberty to keepe a Faire From which Earle by the Scottish Earles of Athol and the Piercies descended the Barons of Bourough who heere dwelt concerning whom I have written already in Surry In this part of the Shire stood long since the City Sidnacester which affoorded a See to the Bishops of this Tract who were called the Bishops of Lindifars But this City is now so farre out of all sight and knowledge that together with the name the very ruines also seeme to have perished for by all my curious enquiry I could learne nothing of it Neither must I overpasse that in this Quarter at Melwood there flourished the family of Saint Paul corruptly called Sampoll Knights which I alwaies thought to have beene of that ancient Castilion race of the Earles of Saint Paul in France But the Coat-Armour of Luxemburgh which they beare implieth that they are come out of France since that the said Castilion stocke of Saint Paul was by marriage implanted into that of Luxemburgh which happened two hundred yeeres since or thereabout Above this place the Rivers of Trent Idell and Dane doe so disport themselves with the division of their streames and Marishes caused by them and other Springs as they enclose within them the River-Island of Axelholme in the Saxon Tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which is a parcell of Lincolne-shire It carryeth in length from South to North ten miles and in breadth not past halfe so much The flat and lower part of it toward the Rivers is marish ground and bringeth forth an odoriferous kinde of shrub which they tearme Gall. It yeeldeth also Pets in the Mores and dead rootes of fir-wood which in burning give a ranke sweet savour There also have beene found great and long firre-trees while they digged for Pet both within the Isle and also without at Laâ—ghton upon Trent banke the old habitation of the family of D'alanson now contractly called Dalison The middle parts of this Isle where it riseth gently with some ascent is fruitefull and fertile and yeeldeth flax in great aboundance also the Alabaster stone and yet the same being not very solide but brittle is more meet for pargetting and plaister-worke than for other uses The chiefe Towne called in old time Axel is now named Axey whence by putting to the Saxon word Holme which they used for a River-Island the name no doubt was compounded But scarce deserveth it to bee called a Towne it is so scatteringly inhabited and yet it is able to shew the plot of ground where a Castle stood that was rased in the Barons warre and which belonged to the Mowbraies who at that time possessed a great part of the Isle In the yeere 1173. as writeth an old Chronographer Roger de Mowbray forsaking his Allegeance to the Elder King repaired the Castle at Kinard Ferry in the Isle of Axholme which had beene of old time destroyed Against whom a number of Lincoln-shire men making head when they had passed over the water in barges laid siege to the Castle forced the Constable thereof and all the souldiers to yeeld and overthrew the said Castle Somewhat higher is Botterwic the Lord whereof Sir Edmund Sheffeld King Edward the Sixth created the first Baron Sheffeld of Botherwic who for his country spent his life against the Rebels in Norfolke having begotten of Anne Vere the Earle of Oxfords daughter a sonne named John the second Baron and father to Edmund now Lord Sheffeld a right honourable Knight of the Garter President of the Councell established in the North. But more into the North I saw Burton Stather standing upon the other side of Trent whereof I have hetherto read nothing memorable This Shire glorieth in the Earles which have borne Title thereof After Egga who flourished in the yeere 710. and Morcar both Saxons and who were Earles by office onely William de Romara a Norman was the first Earle after the Conquest in whose roome being dead for neither his sonne whereas he died before his father nor his grand-child enjoied this title King Stephen placed Gilbert de Gaunt After whose decease Simon de Saint Lyz the younger the sonne of Earle Simon you reade the very words of Robert Montensis who lived about that time Wanting lands by the gracious gift of King Henry the Second tooke his onely daughter to wife with her his honour also After this Lewis of France who was by the seditious Barons brought into England girt a second Gilbert out of the Family de Gaunt with the sword of the Earldome of Lincolne but when the said Lewis was soone after expelled the land no man acknowledged him for Earle and himselfe of his owne accord relinquished that title Then Raulph the sixth Earle of Chester obtained this honour of King Henry the Third who a little before his death gave unto Hawise or Avis his sister the wife of Robert De Quincy by Charter the Earledome of Lincolne so farre forth as appertained unto him that shee might bee Countesse
married to Edward Conway brother to Sir Hugh Conway of Wales a gracious favourite of King Henry the Seventh the knightly Family of the Conwaies have ever since flourished and laudably followed the profession of Armes But East from the river and higher among the Woods which now begin to grow thin stand these townes under named Wroxhall where Hugh de Hatton founded a little Priory Badesley belonging in times past to the Clintons now to the Ferrars Also Balshall sometimes a Commandery of the Templars which Roger de Mowbray gave unto them whose liberality to the order of Templars was so great that by a common consent in their Chapiter they made a decree that himselfe might remit and pardon any of the brotherhood whomsoever in case hee had trespassed against the statutes and ordinances of that Order and did withall before him acknowledge the crime yea and the Knights of the Order of Saint Iohn of Ierusalem unto whom the Templars possessions in England were assigned over for our Ancestours in those daies held it a deadly sinne to prophane things consecrated to God granted in token of thankfulnesse unto Iohn Mowbray of Axholme the successour of the foresaid Roger that himselfe and his successours in every of their Covents and assemblies should be received and entertained alwaies in the second place next unto the King More North-east where wilde Brookes meeting together make a broad poole among the Parkes and so soone as they are kept in with bankes runne in a Chanell is seated Kenelworth in times past commonly called Kenelworde but corruptly Killingworth and of it taketh name a most ample beautifull and strong Castle encompassed all about with Parkes which neither Kenulph nor Kenelm ne yet Keneglise built as some doe dreame but Geffrey Clinton Chamberlaine unto King Henry the First and his sonne with him as may be shewed by good evidences when he had founded there before a Church for Chanons Regular But Henry his Nephew in the second degree having no issue sold it unto King Henry the Third who gave it in franke marriage to Simon Montfort Earle of Leicester together with his sister Aeleonor And soone after when enmity was kindled betweene the King and Earle Simon and hee slaine in the bloody warres which he had raised upon faire pretexts against his Soveraigne it endured six moneths fiege and in the end was surrendred up to the king aforesaid who annexed this Castle as an inheritance to Edmund his sonne Earle of Lancaster At which time there went out and was proclaimed from hence an Edict which our Lawyers use to call Dictum de Kenelworth whereby it was enacted That whosoever had tooke Armes against the King should pay every one of them five yeeres rent of their lands c. A severe yet a good and wholsome course without effusion of bloud against rebellious subjects who compassing the destruction of the State built all their hopes upon nothing else but dissentions But this Castle through the bountifull munificence of Queene Elizabeth was given and granted to Robert Dudleie Earle of Leicester who to repaire and adorne it spared for no coste in so much as if a man consider either the gallant building or the large Parkes it would scorne as it were to be ranged in a third place amongst the Castles in England Next after this to keepe on the journey that my selfe made I saw Solyhill but in it setting aside the Church there is nothing worth sight Then Bremicham full of Inhabitants and resounding with hammers and anvils for the most of them are Smiths The lower part thereof standeth very waterish the upper riseth with faire buildings for the credite and praise whereof I may not reckon this in the last place that the Noble and martiall Family of the Bremichams Earles of Louth c. in Ireland fetched their originall and name from hence Then in the utmost skirt of this Shire North-westward Sutton Colfield standing in a woody and on a churlish hard Soile glorieth of John Voisy Bishop of Excester there borne and bred who in the Raigne of king Henry the Eighth when this little Towne had lien a great while as dead raised it up againe with buildings priviledges and a Grammar Schoole As I went downe from hence Southward I came to Coleshull a Towne sometime of the Clintons and to Maxstocke Castle neighbouring to it which acknowledged by a continuall line of hereditary succession for his Lords the Limseies who were also Lords of Wolverley the Odingsells that came out of Flanders and the Clitons men of greatest worth and worship in their times Lower yet in the mids of this Woodland standeth Coventrey so called as we take it of a Covent of Monkes considering that we terme in our tongue such a brotherhood a Covent and Coven and it is oftentimes in our Histories and Pontificall Decrees named Coventria as for example in this one passage Vel non est compos sui Episcopus Conventrensis vel nimis videtur à se scientiam repulisse Yet there be that would have this name to be taken from that little Brooke that runneth within the City at this day called Shirburn and in an ancient Charter of the Priory is written Cuentford Well whence so ever it was so called in the foregoing age growing wealthy by clothing and making of Caps it was the onely Mart and City of trade in all these parts frequented also and peopled more than ordinarily a midland place as being a City very commodiously seated large sweet and neat fortified with strong Walles and set out with right goodly houses among which there rise up on high two Churches of rare workmanship standing one hard by the other and matched as it were as concurrents the one consecrated to the Holy Trinity the other to Saint Michael Yet hath it nothing within it that one would say is of great antiquity And the most ancient monument of all as it may seeme was the Monastery or Priory the ruines whereof I saw neere unto those Churches which Priory king Canutus founded first for religious Nunnes who when they were within a while after throwne out in the yeere 1043 Leofricke Earle of the Mercians enlarged and in manner built anew with so great a shew and bravery of gold and silver these be the very words of William Malmesbury that the wals seemed too narrow for to receive the treasure of the Church and the coste bestowed there was wonderfull to as many as beheld it for out of one beame were scraped 50. Markes of silver And he endowed it with so great livings that Robert de Limseie Bishop of Lichfield and Chester translated his See hither as it were to the golden sand of Lydia to the end for so writeth the said Malmesbury that out of the very treasure of the Church hee might by stealth convey wherewith to fill the Kings hand wherewith to avoid the Popes businesse and wherewith to satisfie the greedinesse of the
single life For then Oswald Bishop of this City who promoted the Monasticall life as busily as any whosoever remooved the Priests and brought in Monkes Which King Eadgar testifieth in these words The Monasteries as well of Monkes as of Virgins have beene destroied and quite neglected throughout England which I have now determined to repaire to the glory of God for my soules health and so to multiply the number of Gods servants and hand-maides And now already I have set up seven and forty Monasteries with Monkes and Nunnes in them and if Christ spare me life so long I am determined in offering my devout munificence to God for to proceed to fifty even the just number of a Iubilee Whereupon at this present that Monastery which the reverend Bishop Oswald in the Episcopall See of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 amply enlarged to the honour of Mary the holy Mother of God and by casting out those Clerkes c. hath with my assent and favour appointed there Monkes the religious servants of God I my selfe doe by my royall authority confirme and by the counsell and consent of my Peeres and Nobles corroborate and consigne to those religious men living a sole and single life c. Long time after when the state of the Church and Clergy here partly by the Danes incursion and in part by civill dissentions was so greatly weakened and brought upon the very knees that in lieu of that multitude of religious persons whom Oswald had heere placed scarce twelve remained Wolstan Bishop of this Church about the yeer of the worlds redemption 1090. put to his helping hand raised it up againe and brought them to the number of 50. yea and built a new Church for them Wolstan I say a man not so learned the times then were such but of that simple sincerity without all hypocrisie so severe also and austere of life that as he was terrible to the wicked so he was venerable to the good and after his death the Church registred him in the number of Saints But King Henry the Eighth suppressed and expelled the Monkes after they had in all plenty and fulnesse lived more than 500. yeeres and in their roomes he substituted a Deane and Prebendaries and withall erected a Grammar-schoole for the training up of youth Hard by this Church the bare name and plot of a Castle remaineth which as wee reade in William of Malmesburies booke of Bishops Ursus appointed Sheriffe of Worcestershire by William the Conquerour built under the very nose and in the mouth well neere of the Monkes in so much as he cut away from them a part of their Church-yard But this Castle through the iniquity of time and casuality of fire was consumed many yeeres ago The City it selfe also hath been burnt more than once as being set on fire in the yeere of Christ 1041. by Hardy-Cnute who exceedingly incensed against the Citizens because they had slaine his Huscarles for so they tearmed those domesticall Gatherers of the Danes tribute did not only set fire on the City but slew the Citizens every mothers sonne unlesse it were those that saved themselves in 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 an Island compassed in with the River Howbeit as we finde written in King William the Conquerours booke in King Edward the Confessours time It had many Burgesses and for fifteene Hides discharged it selfe when the Mint went every Minter gave twenty shillings at London for to receive coyning stamps of money In the yeere 1113. a skarfire that came no man knew how burnt the Castle caught also with the flames to the roofes of the Church Likewise in the Raigne of Stephen in the time of Civill Warres it was twice on fire but most dangerously when King Stephen who had to his owne damage given this City unto Wallerand Earle of Mellent seized it into his owne hands howbeit he was not able at that time to winne the Castle Neverthelesse it raised it selfe up againe out of the ashes in a goodlier forme alwaies than it had before and flourished in a right good state of civill government governed by two Bailiffes chosen out of 24. Citizens two Aldermen and two Chamberlains with a Common Counsell consisting of 48. Citizens As touching the Geographicall position of this City it is distant in Longitude from the West Meridian 21. Degrees and 52. Minutes and the North Pole is elevated 52. Degrees and 12. Minutes From Worcester the River Severn running on still Southward passeth beside Powicke the seat in times past of Sir Iohn Beauchamp whom King Henry the Sixth raised up to the state of a Baron and within a small time the female heires brought the inheritance to the Willoughbeies of Broke the Reads and the Lygons then runneth it through most rich and redolent medowes by Hanley Castle belonging sometimes to the Earles of Glocester and by Upton a Mercate Towne of great name where peeces of Romane money are oftentimes found Not farre from hence upon the banke on the right hand the Severn beholdeth Malvern-Hills hills in deed or rather great and high mountaines which for the space of seven miles or thereabout doe as it were by degrees rise higher and higher dividing this Shire from the County of Hereford On the brow of which Hills Gilbert Clare Earle of Glocester did cast a Ditch in times past to make a partition betweene his possessions and the lands of the Church of Worcester a peece of worke which is at this day seene not without wonder Over against those hils and in like distance almost from the other banke Bredon Hills being farre lesse yet in emulation as it were to match them mount aloft among which Elmsley Castle belonging sometimes to Ursus or Urso D' Abtot maketh a goodly shew by whose daughter and heire Emeline it came hereditarily to the Beauchamps At the foote of these hills lieth Bredon a Village concerning the Monastery whereof Offa King of the Mercians saith thus I Offa King of the Mercians will give land containing seven times five Acres of Tributaries unto the Monastery that is named Breodun in the Province of the Wiccij and to the Church of blessed Saint Peter Prince of the Apostles there and in that place standing which Church Eanwulph my grandfather erected to the praise and glory of the everliving God Under these Bredon hils Southward you see two villages named Washborne whence came the sirname to a very ancient and worshipfull Family in this Tract standing in a parcell of this Province dismembred as it were from the rest of the body of which kinde there be other parcels here and there scattering all about But what should be the cause I am not able to resolve unlesse haply those that in old time were governours adjoined to their government their owne lands that lay neere unto the Region which they then governed Now Avon from above runneth downe and speeds himselfe to Severn who in this shire
Pollesworth by the Marmions of Normandie Lords heereof at what time they erected heere a Collegiat Church wherein are seene some of their Sepulchres and builded a faire Castle which from them by the Frevills came to the house of those Ferrars that descended from a younger brother of the Barons Ferrars of Groby Those Marmions as wee finde written were by inheritance the Kings Champions of England For whensoever any new king of England is crowned the heire of this Family was bound to ride armed in compleat harneis upon a barbd horse into the Kings hall and in a set forme of words challenge to combat with whosoever durst oppose himselfe against the kings right and Title And verily it appeareth upon Records that Alexander Frevill under king Edward the Third by the same service held this Castle Howbeit at the Coronation of king Richard the Second when Baldwin Frevill exhibited his petition for the same it was adjudged from this Family to Sir John Dimock his competitor descended also from Marmion as producing better Records and evidences At Falkesley Bridge aforesaid that I may retire a little that Romane High way Watling street of which I have already spoken and must often speak entreth into this Shire and cutting it through as it were by a streight line goeth Westward into Shropp-shire Which Streete I have I assure you throughly viewed and perused to finde out that ETOCETUM which Antonine the Emperour setteth downe for the next station from MANVESSEDUM or Mancester in Warwick-shire and surely by good happe I have now found it and freely confesse that heeretofore I was farre wide and quite out of the way For just at the same distance that Antonine setteth betweene MANVESSEDUM and ETOCETUM I lighted upon the carkasse of an old little Towne upon the said High way and scarce a mile Southward from Lichfield a Bishops See right well knowne The name of the place at this day is in our common language Wall of the Reliques of an old wall there remaining and taking up much about two acres of ground which they call Castle croft as one would say The Castle Field Over against which on the other side of the street the Inhabitants relate by a tradition from their forefathers that there stood an ancient Towne destroyed long before the Conquest And they shew the very place where by the maine foundation they ghesse the Temple there stood and with all they produce peeces of money coined by the Roman Emperours and found there as most certaine testimonies in this behalfe But that which maketh most for the proofe heereof from hence leadeth the Romane Way called Watling street with a faire apparent and continued causey in manner throughout untill it bee broken off with the River Penck and hath upon it a Stone-bridge at PENNOCRUCIUM so named of the River just at the same distance that Antonine setteth downe Which hath not yet laied away so much as the name for in steed of PENNOCRUCIUM it is now called Penck-ridge But at this day it is little better than a Village famous for an Horse-Faire which the Lord of the place Hugh Blunt obtained of King Edward the Second From hence that way hath nothing memorable upon it in this Shire but a little way off is Brewood a Mercate Towne where the Bishops of this Diocesse had an habitation before the Conquest and then neere unto Weston is a cleere Poole spread very broad by which that notable way holdeth on a direct course to Oken-Yate in Shrop-shire Now are wee to visite the middle part of this Shire which Trent watereth in the description whereof I purpose to follow the course and windings of the River from the very spring and head thereof as my best guide Trent that by his due right chalengeth to himselfe the third place among all the Rivers of England runneth out of two Fountaines being neere neighbours together in the North part of this shire among the moores Certaine unskilfull and idle headed have dreamed that it was so named of Trent a French word that signifieth Thirty and thereupon also have feigned that thirty Rivers runne into it and as many kindes of fishes live therein the names whereof the people dwelling thereby were wont to sing in an English rhyme neither make they doubt to ascribe that unto this Trent which the Hungarians avouch of their River Tibiscus namely that two parts of it are water and the third fish From his spring heads Trent trickleth downe first Southward fetching many a compasse not farre from New Castle under Lime so called of another more ancient Castle that flourished in times past hard by at Chesterton under Lime where I saw tottered and torne the walls of a Castle which by the gift of King John belonged first unto Ranulph Earle of Chester and afterwards by the bounteous favour of King Henry the Third unto the House of Lancaster Thence by Trent-ham sometime Tricing-ham a little Monastery of that holy virgin Saint Werburg of the bloud royall hee hasteneth to Stone a Mercate Towne which having the beginning in the Saxons time tooke that name of the Stones that our Ancestours after a solemne sort had cast on a heape to notifie the place where Wolpher that heathenish King of the Mercians most cruelly slew his two sonnes Wulfald and Rufin because they had taken upon them the profession of Christianity In which place when Posterity in memoriall of them had consecrated a little Church straight wayes there arose and grew up a Towne which of those stones had the name Stone given unto it as the History of Peterborrough hath recorded Beyond Stone runneth Trent mildly by Sandon the seat in times past of the Staffords most worthy Knights but lately by inheritance from them of Sampson Erdeswicke a very great lover and diligent searcher of venerable Antiquity and in this regard no lesse worthy of remembrance than for that he is directly in the male line descended from Sir Hugh Vernon Baron of Shipbroc the name being changed by the use of that age according to sundry habitations first into Holgrave and afterwards into Erdeswicke Heere Trent turneth his course aside Eastward and on the South hath Canocwood commonly called Cankwood spred farre and wide and at length entertaineth the River Sow which breaketh out in a hard Country neere Healy Castle built by the Barons of Aldalegh or Audley unto whom Hervey Lord Stafford gave that place like as Theobald Verdon gave Aldelegh it selfe This hath beene a Family of high respect and great honour and of the same stem out of which the Stanleies Earles of Darby derive their Descent Strange it is to reade what lands King Henry the Third confirmed unto Henry Audeley which were bestowed upon him by the bounty of the Peeres yea and private Gentlemen not only in England but also in Ireland where Hugh Lacy Earle of Vlster gave him lands with the Constableship of
and separateth it from Darby-shire holding on his course in a Cleyish channell without any beds or shelves of mud through a soile consisting of the said Lime-stone from whence it sucketh out such fertilitie that in the very middest of Winter the Medowes on both the bankes sides carry a most pleasant and fresh greene hew but if it chance to swell above the bankes and overflow the Medowes in Aprill it battelleth them like another Nilus and maketh them so fruitfull that the inhabitants use commonly to chant this joyfull note In Aprill Doves flood Is worth a Kings good This river in twelve houres space useth so to rise that it harieth and carrieth away with it sheepe and other cattaile to the great terror of the people dwelling thereby but within the same time againe it falleth and returnes within his owne bankes whereas Trent being once up and over his bankes floweth upon the fields foure or five daies together but now come we to the rivers that run into it The first is Hans which being swallowed up under the ground breaketh up againe three miles off Then admitteth he the fellowship of the river Churnet who passeth by De-la-Cres Abbay built by Ranulph the third of that name Earle of Chester by Leike also a well knowne Mercat towne and by Aulton a Castle in times past belonging to the Barons Verdon who founded heere the Abbay of Croxden from whom by the Furnivals it descended to the Talbots Earles of Shrewsbury A little below runneth Teyn a small brooke into Dove which having his head not far from Cheddle the ancient seat of the Bassets who derive their pedegree from the Bassets of Draiton creepeth on in such a winding and crooked chanell that within one mile I was faine to passe over it foure times Neere unto it in Checkley Church-yard there stand three stones upright erected in maner of a Pyramides two of them have little images engraven upon them but that in the middest is highest The inhabitants report by tradition that a battaile was fought there betweene two hosts of which the one was armed the other unarmed and that in it were three Bishops slaine in memoriall of whom these stones were set up But what Historicall truth indeed lieth heerein enfolded I know not as yet As for Blith it hath in this Moreland Careswell a Castler situate upon it which Sir William Careswell built with great ponds having their heads made of square stones and Draicot which gave surname to a family of great antiquity in this County But Dove after it hath received Tine having a faire bridge made over it of most hard stone and defended with piles runneth under Vtcester in ' the Saxons tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and Vttoxather situate upon the side of an hill with a gentle ascent a towne more rich in gay flowring medowes and in cattaile than faire built which before I saw it the name was so favourable to my conjecture I thought in vaine to have been the ancient ETOCETUM But now time hath taught me more certeinty After this when Dove is now come neerer unto Trent it visiteth Tutbury Castle in times past a large and stately thing which also is called Stutesbury and from an Alabaster hill top on which it stands threatneth as it were the whole country underneath It was built together with a little Monastery by Henry de Ferrars a Noble man of Normandy unto whom King William the First had given great lands and revenewes in this shire all which Robert de Ferrars Earle of Darby lost after he had revolted a second time from King Henry the Third For this Robert when after many troubles which he had raised in the Barons war hee was received into the Kings favour and had bound himselfe with a corporall oth in expresse and formall words that he would continue ever after loyall to his liege Lord yet was the man of such a stirring and restlesse spirit that to break and knap in peeces quite that fortune which he could not bend he put on armes against his Soveraigne and being at length taken prisoner that I may use the very words of the Record according to the forme of his obligation made this great forfeiture both of his fortunes and dignities There is in some place of this shire a lake if Alexander Necham deceive us not into which no wilde beast will in any wise enter but since the place is uncertaine and the thing it selfe more uncertaine I will onely put downe underneath these his verses before which he prefixed this Title De Lacu in Staffordia Rugitu Lacus est eventus praeco futuri Cujus aquis fera se credere nulla solet Instet odora canum virtus mors instet acerba Non tamen intrabit exagitata lacum Of a Lake in Stafford-shire A Lake there is that roreth loud whereby things are fore-showne The water whereof once to take wild beasts were never knowne Let hounds let death pursue apace them for to overtake For all this chase and hot pursuite none enter will the Lake Of another Poole or Lake also in this Country thus writeth Gervase of Tilbury in his Otia Imperialia unto Otho the fourth In the Bishopricke of Coventry and County of Stafford at the foot of an hill which the inborne people of the Country have named Mahull there is a water spread abroad in maner of a Meere in the territory of a Village which they tearme Magdalea In this Meere or Marsh there is a most cleere water and an infinite number of woods beside joyning one unto another which hath such an effectuall vertue in refreshing of bodies that so often as Hunters have chased Stagges and other Deere untill their Horses be tired if in the greatest heate of the scorching Sunne they taste of this water and offer it unto their Horses for to drinke they recover their strength of running againe which they had lost and become so fresh as one would thinke they had not run at all But whereabout this is I cannot yet learne by all my diligent inquiry As for the title of Stafford it remaineth ever since Robert de Stafford whom King William of Normandy enriched with great possessions even untill our time in his line and progeny A family as noble and ancient as any other but upon which fortune hath otherwhiles by turnes both frowned and fawned For first they were Barons of Stafford then five of them Earles of Stafford Ralfe created by King Edward the Third Earle of Stafford who married the heire of Sir Hugh Audley Earle of Glocester Hugh his sonne who died in Pilgrimage at Rhodes and his three sonnes successively Thomas and William both issuelesse and Edmund who married the daughter and heire of Thomas of Woodstock Duke of Buckingham Afterward three of them were Dukes of Buckingham and Earles of Stafford c. as is before shewed By the attainder of the last of them those so great inheritances
or ends As for the cause let others search for mine owne part I have observed that this malady hath runne through England thrice in the age aforegoing and yet I doubt not but long before also it did the like although it were not recorded in writing first in the yeere of our Lord 1485. in which King Henry the Seventh began his Raigne a little after a great conjunction of the superior Planets in Scorpio A second time yet more mildly although the plague accompanied it in the thirtie three yeere after anno 1518. upon a great opposition of the same Planets in Scorpio and Taâ—rus at which time it plagued the Netherlands and high Almaine also Last of all three and thirtie yeeres after that in that yeere 1551. when another conjunction of those Planets in Scorpio tooke their effects But perhaps I have insisted too long herein for these may seeme vaine toies to such as attribute nothing at all to celestiall influence and learned experience Neere unto this Citie Severne fetcheth many a compasse turning and winding in and out but specially at Rossall where hee maketh such a curving reach that hee commeth well neere round and meeteth with himselfe Heere about is that most ancient kinde of boat in very great use which in the old time they called in Latine Rates commonly to wit Flotes certaine peeces of timber joyned together with rough plankes and rafâ—ers running overthwart which serve to convey burdens downe the River with the streame the use and name whereof our countrimen have brought from Rhene in Germanie and tearme them as the Germans doe Flores By the River side stand Shrawerden a Castle sometime of the Earles of Arundell but afterwards belonging to Sir Thomas Bromley late Lord Chancellor of England Knocking Castle built by the Lords Le Strange from whom it descended hereditarily unto the Stanleies Earles of Darbie and neere unto it Nesse over which there mounteth up right a craggie cliffe with a cave much talked of which together with Cheswarden King Henry the Second gave unto John Le Strange from whom by divers branches are sprung the most Honorable families of the Stranges de Knocking Avindelegh Ellesmere Blackmere Lutheham and Hunstanston in Norfolke Now from those of Knocking when as the last died without any issue male the inheritance descended by Joan a sole daughter and the wife of George Stanley unto the house of Darby Farther from the River even upon the West frontier of the shire lieth Oswestre or Oswaldstre in British Croix Oswalds a little Towne enclosed with a ditch and a wall fortified also with a pretie Castle and in it there is great trafficke especially of Welsh Cottons of a slight and thin webbe which you may call in Latine Levidensas whereof there is bought and sold heere every weeke great store It hath the name of Oswald King of the Northumbers whereas before time it was called Maserfield whom Penda the Pagan Prince of the Mercians both slew heere in a bloudy battaile and after he had slaine him with monstrous cruelty tare in peeces Whence a Christian Poet of good antiquity versified thus of him Cujus abscissum caput abscissosque lacertos Et tribus affixos palis pendere cruentus Penda jubet per quod reliquis exempla relinquat Terroris manifesta sui regemque beatum Esse probet miserum sed causam fallit utrámque Ultor enim fratris minimè timet Oswius illum Imò timere facit nec Rex miser imò beatus Est qui fonte boni fruitur semel sine fine Whose head and limbs dismembred thus that bloudy Penda takes And causeth to be hanged up fast fixed on three stakes His meaning was hereby to strike a terror to the rest And make him seeme a wretched wight who was a King much blest But this his purpose fail's in both Oswy his brother deare In his revenge was not afraid but rather makes him feare Nor miserable is this Prince but happy we may say Who now enjoy's the spring of good and shall enioy for aye This Towne seemeth to have had the first originall from devotion and religion for the Christians of that age counted it a most holy place and Bede hath recorded that here where Oswald was slaine strange miracles have been wrought But Madoc brother of Mereduc as Caradoc of Lancarvan writeth built it and the Norman Fitz-Allans who were Lords afterwards thereof and Earles of Arundell walled it about The Ecclipses of the sunne in Aries have been most dangerous unto it for in the yeers of our Lord 1542. and 1567. when the Ecclipses of the sunne in Aries wrought their effects it suffered very grievous losse by fire And namely after this later Ecclipse the fire spread it selfe so far that there were burnt within the Towne and suburbs about two hundred houses A little beneath this Northwestward there is an hill entrenched round about with a threefold ditch they call it Hen-Dinas that is The old palace The neighbour dwellers say confidently it hath been a Citie but others there be that thinke it was the Camps of Penda or Oswald Scarce three miles from hence standeth Whittington a Castle not long agoe of the Fitz-Guarins who deduced their pedegree from Sir Guarin de Metz a Loraineis but he tooke to wife the daughter and heire of William Peverell who is reported to have built Whittington and begat Fulke the Father of that most renowned Sir Fulke Fitz-Warin of whose doubtfull deedes and variable adventures in the warres our Ancestours spake great wonders and Poems were composed In the reigne of Henry the Third I finde that licence was granted unto Foulk Fitz-Warin to strengthen the Castle of Whittington in competent manner as appeareth out of the Close rolles in the fifth of King Henry the Third The dignity of these Barons Fitz-Warins had an end in an heire Female and in the age aforegoing passed by Hancford unto the Bourchiers now Earles of Bath Beneath this Whittington one Wrenoc sonne of Meuric held lands who for his service ought to be Latimer that is Truchman or Interpreter betweene the English and the Welshmen This note I out of an old Inquisition that men may understand what the said name Latimer importeth which no man almost knew heretofore and yet it hath been a surname very currant and rise in this kingdome At the North-west border of this shire there offer themselves to be seene first Shenton the seat of the respective familie of the Needhams Blackemere an ancient Manour of the Lords Le Strange and then Whitchurch or Album Monasterium where I saw some Monuments of the Talbots but principally of that renowned English Achilles Sir John Talbot the first Earle of Shrewsbury out of this house whose Epitaph that the reader may see the forme of the Inscriptions according to that age I will here put downe although it is little beseeming so
the long traine and consequents of things as also whatsoever throughout the world hath beene done by all persons in all places and at all times and what ever hath beene all done may also bee avoided and taken heed of Which City having foure Gates from the foure cardinall Windes on the East side hath a prospect toward India on the West toward Ireland North-Eastward the greater Norway and Southward that streight and narrow Angle which divine severity by reason of civill and home-discords hath left unto the Britans Which long since by their bitter variance have caused the name of Britaine to bee changed into the name of England Over and beside Chester hath by Gods gift a River to enrich and adorne it the same faire and fishfull hard by the City Walles and on the South side a rode and harbour for shippes comming from Gascoine Spaine and Germany which with the helpe and direction of Christ by the labour and wisedome of Merchants repaire and refresh the heart of the City with many good things that wee being comforted every way by our Gods Grace may also drinke Wine often more frankely and plenteously because those Countries enjoy the fruite of the Vineyards aboundantlie Moreover the open Sea ceaseth not to visite it every day with a Tide which according as the broad shelves and barres of sands are opened or hidden by Tides and Ebbes incessantly is wont more or lesse either to send or exchange one thing or other and by his reciprocall Flow and returnes either to bring in or to carry out somewhat From the City North-Westward there shooteth out a languet of land or Promontory of the maine land into the Sea enclosed on the one side with Dee mouth on the other side with the River Mersey wee call it Wirall the Welsh Britans for that it is an Angle tearme it Kill-gury In old time it was all forest and not inhabited as the Dwellers report but King Edward the Third disforested it Yet now beset it is with Townes on every side howbeit more beholding to the Sea than to the Soile for the land beareth small plenty on Corne the water yeeldeth great store of fish At the entry into it on the South side standeth Shotwich a Castle of the Kings upon the salt water Upon the North standeth Hooten a Mannour which in King Richard the Second his time came to the Stanleies who fetch their Pedegree from Alane Silvestre upon whom Ranulph the first of that name Earle of Chester conferred the Bailly-wick of the Forest of Wirall by delivering unto him an horne Close unto this is Poole from whence the Lords of the place that have a long time flourished tooke their name and hard by it Stanlaw as the Monkes of that place interprete it A Stony hill where John Lacy Connestable of Chester founded a little Monastery which afterward by reason of inundations was translated to Whaley in Lancashire In the utmost brinke of this Promontory lieth a small hungry barren and sandy Isle called Il-bre which had sometime a little Cell of Monkes in it More within the Country and Eastward from Wirall you meet with a famous Forest named the Forest of Delamere the Foresters whereof by hereditary succâ—ssion are the Dawns of Vtkimon descended of a worshipfull stocke from Ranulph de Kingleigh unto whom Ranulph the first Earle of Chester gave that Forestership to bee held by right of inheritance In this Forest Aedelfled the famous Mercian Lady built a little City called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is by interpretation Happy Towne which now having quite lost it selfe hath likewise lost that name and is but an heape of rubbish and rammell which they call The Chamber in the Forest. And about a mile or two from hence are to bee seene the ruines of Finborrow another Towne built by the same Lady Aedelfled Through the upper part of this Forest the River Wever runneth which ariseth out of a Poole in the South side of the Shire at Ridly the dwelling house of the worshipâ—ull Family of the Egertons who flowered out of the Barons of Melpas as I have said Neere hereunto is Bunbury contractly so called for Boniface Bury for Saint Boniface was the Patron Saint there where the Egertous built a College for Priests Over against which is Beeston which gave sirname to an ancient family and where upon a steepe rising hill Beeston Castle towereth aloft with a turretted wall of a great circuit This Castle the last Ranulph Earle of Chester built whereof Leland our Countriman being rapt both with a Poeticall and Propheticall fury writeth thus Assyrio rediens victor Ranulphus ab orbe Hoc posuit Castrum terrorem gentibus olim Vicâ—uis patriaeque suae memorabile vallum Nunc licet indignas patiatur fracta ruinas Tempus erit quando rursus caput exeret altum Vatibus antiquis si fas mihi credere vati When Ranulph from Assyria return'd with victory As well the neighbour Nations to curbe and terrifie As for to sense his owne Country this famous Fort he rais'd Whilom a stately things but now the pride thereof is raz'd And yet though at this present time it be in meane estate With crackes and breaches much defac'd and fouly ruinate The day will come when it againe the head aloft shall heave If ancient Prophets I my selfe a Prophet may beleeve But to returne to the River Wever first holdeth his course Southward not farre from Woodhay where dwelt a long time that family of the Wilburhams knights in great reputation also by Bulkeley and Cholmondley which imparted their names to worshipfull houses of knights degree not farre off on the one hand from Baddeley the habitation in times past of the ancient Family de Praerijs of the other from Cumbermer in which William Malbedeng founded a little religious house Where this River commeth to the South limit of this Shire it passeth through low places wherein as also elsâ—where the people finde oftentimes and get out of the ground trees that have lien buried as it is thought there ever since Noahs floud But afterwards watering fruitfull fields he taketh to him out of the East a riveret by which standeth Wibbenbury so called of Wibba King of the Mercians Hard to it lie Hatherton the seat in old time of the Orbetes then of the Corbetts but now of the Smithes Dodinton the possession of the Delvesies Batherton of the Griphins Shavinton of the Wodenoths who by that name may seeme to have descended from the English Saxons beside the places of other famous Families wherewith this County every where aboundeth From thence runneth Wever downe by Nant-wich not farre from Middlewich and so to Northwich These are very famous Salt-wiches five or sixe miles distant asunder where brine or salt water is drawne out of Pittes which they powre not upon wood while it burneth as the ancient Gaules and Germans were wont to doe but boyle over the
inscription IMP. DOMIT. AUG GER DE CEANG. But on the other IMP. VESP. VII T. IMP. V. COSS. Which Monument seemeth to have beene erected for a Victory over the Cangi Heereto maketh also the very site upon the Irish sea For thus writeth Tacitus in the 12. booke of his Annales Whiles Nero was Emperour There was an Army led by Ostorius against the Cangi the fields were wasted booties raised every where for that the enemies durst not come into the field but if they attempted closely and by stealth to cut off the Army as it marched they paid for their deceitfull cunning Now were they no sooner come neere unto the Sea-Coast toward Ireland but certaine tumults and insurrections among the Brigantes brought the Generall backe But by the inscription abovesaid it should seeme that they were not subdued before Domitians time and then by computation of the times when as that most warlicke Julius Agricola was Propretour in Britaine Ptolomee likewise placed the Promontory KARRANâ—N that is of the Cangi on this shore Neither dare I seeke elsewhere than in this tract that Station CONGANII where in the declining estate of the Roman Empire a Company or Band called Vigiles that is Watchmen with their Captaine under the Dux Britanniae kept watch and ward Notwithstanding I leave to every man for mee his owne judgement heerein as in all things else of this nature Touching the Earles that I may passe over the English Saxons Earles only by office and not by inheritance king William the first created Hugh sirnamed Lupus son to the Vicount of Auranches in Normandy the first hereditary Earle of Chester and Count Palatine and gave unto him and his heires all this County to be holden as freely by his sword as the King himselfe held England by his Crowne For these are the words of the Donation who forthwith appointed under him these Barons viz. Niele Baron of Haulton whose posterity afterwards tooke the name of Lacies for that the Lacies inheritance had fallen unto them and were Earles of Lincolne Robert Baron of Mont-hault Seneschall of the County of Chester the last of whose line having no issue ordained by his last Will Isabel Queene of England and John of Eltham Earle of Cornwall his heires William Malbedeng Baron of Malbanc whose nephewes daughters by marriage brought the inheritance to the Vernons and Bassets Richard Vernon Baron of Shipbroke whose inheritance for default of heires males in the end came by the sisters unto the Wilburbams Staffords and Littleburies Robert Fitz-Hugh Baron of Malpas who as it seemeth dyed as I said before without issue Hamon de Masey whose possessions descended to the Fittons of Bollin Gilbert Venables Baron of Kinderton whose posterity in the right line have continued and flourished unto these our dayes N. Baron of Stockeport to whom at length the Warrens of Pointon budded out of the honorable family of the Earles of Warren and Surry in right of marriage succeeded And these were all the Barons of the Earles of Chester that ever I could hitherto finde Who as it is written in an old Booke Had their free Courts of all Plees and Suits or Complaints except those Plees which belong unto the Earles sword And their Office was To assist the Earle in Councell to yeeld him dutifull attendance and oftentimes to repaire unto his Court for to doe him honor and as we finde in old parchment Records Bound they were in time of warre in Wales to finde for every Knights fee one horse with caparison and furniture or else two without within the Divisions of Ches-shire Also that their Knights and Freeholders should have Corslets and Haubergeons and defend their Foces by their owne bodies After Hugh the first Earle beforesaid succeeded Richard his sonne who is his tender yeeres perished by shipwracke together with William the onely sonne of King Henry the First and other Noblemen betweene Normandy and England in the yeere 1120. After Richard succeeded Ranulph de Meschines the third Earle sonne to the sister of Earle Hugh and left behinde him his sonne Ranulph named de Gernonijs the fourth Earle of Chester a Warlike man and who at the Siege of Lincolne tooke King Stephen Prisoner Hugh sirnamed Keveltoc his sonne was the Fifth Earle who died in the yeere 1181. and left his sonne Ranulph named de Blundevill the sixth Earle who after he had built the Castles of Chartley and Beeston and the Abbay also De la Cresse died without children and left foure sisters to be his heires Maude the wife of David Earle of Huntingdon Mabile espoused to William D' Albeney Earle of Arundell Agnes married to William Ferrars Earle of Darby and Avis wedded to Robert de Quincy After Ranulph the sixth Earle there succeeded in the Earledome John sirnamed the Scot the sonne of Earle David by the said Maude the eldest daughter Who being deceased likewise without any issue King Henry the Third casting his eye upon so faire and large an inheritance laid it unto the Domaine of the Crowne and assigned other revenewes elsewhere to the heires not willing as the King himselfe was wont to say that so great an estate should be divided among distaves And the Kings themselves in person after that this Earledome came unto their hands for to maintaine the honor of the Palatineship continued here the ancient rights and Palatine priviledges and Courts like as the Kings of France did in the County of Champan Afterward this honour of Chester was deferred upon the Kings eldest sonnes and first unto to Edward King Henry the Third his sonne who being taken prisoner by the Barons and kept in ward delivered it up for his ransome unto Simon Montford Earle of Leicester But when Simon was soone after slaine it returned quickly againe unto the bloud Royall and King Edward the Second summoned his eldest sonne being but a childe unto the Parliament by the Titles of Earles of Chester and Flint Afterwards King Richard the Secondary by authority of the Parliament made it of an Earldome a Principality and to the same Principality annexed the Castle of Leon with the territories of Bromfield and Yale Chircke Castle with Chircke land Oswalds-street Castle the whole hundred and eleven townes belonging to that Castle with the Castles of Isabell and Delaley and other goodly lands which by reason that Richard Earle of Arundell stood then proscript and outlawed had beene confiscate to the Kings Exchequer and King Richard himselfe was stiled Prince of Chester but within few yeeres after that Title vanished away after that King Henry the Fourth had once repealed the Lawes of the said Parliament and it became againe a County or Earledome Palatine and at this day retaineth the jurisdiction Palatine and for the administration thereof it hath a Chamberlaine who hath all jurisdiction of a Chancellour within the said County Palatine a Justice for matters in Common Plees and Plees of the Crowne to bee heard and determined in the said
in France As for his wife being taken prisoner and famished in prison the extremest misery that can befall unto man or woman she paied most deerely for her wicked and malapert tongue His sonne Giles Bishop of Hereford by the favour and consent of King John having recovered his fathers inheritance neglecting his nephew the right heire left it unto his brother Reginald whose sonne William Lhelin Prince of Wales having taken him in bed with his wife hanged But by the daughters of that William the Mortimers Cantelows and Bohuns Earles of Hereford entred upon a great and goodly inheritance And this Brechnock fell in partition unto the Bohuns and in the end by them unto the Staffords and when Edward Stafford Duke of Buckingham was attainted many very goodly revenewes fell unto the King in this Shire and elsewhere It reckoneth Parishes 61. MONMOUTH-SHIRE BEneath Brechnock and Hereford-shire Southward lyeth the County of Monmouth commonly called in English MONMOUTH-SHIRE in times past Went-set and wents-Wents-land in British Guent of an ancient City so called It is inclosed on the North side with the River Munow that separateth it from Hereford-shire on the East side with Wye running betweene it and Glocester-shire on the West with the River Remney which severeth it from Glamorgan-shire and on the South with the Severn sea whereinto the said Rivers together with Vske that cutteth through the middest of the Country are discharged As for commodities necessary to mans life it hath not onely sufficient for it selfe but also affoordeth them in plentifull manner to the neighbours adjoyning The East part is full of grasse and woods the West is somewhat hilly and stony yet not unthankefull to the Husbandman The people as saith Giraldus writing of his owne age most inured to martiall conflicts is in feates of strength and valour right commendable and for skill of archery and shooting farre surpassing any Country in Wales In the utmost angle called Ewias toward the North-West not farre from the River Munow among Hatterell hills which because they rise up in heigth like a chaire they call Munith Cader there stood Lanthony a little ancient Abbay which Walter Lacy founded unto whom William Earle of Hereford gave faire lands heere and from whom are descended those renowned Lacies worthily reputed among the most noble Conquerours of Ireland The situation of which Abbay Giraldus Cambrensis who knew it better than I shall pensile it out unto you for mee In the most deepe Valley of Ewias saith hee which is about an arrow-shoote over standeth a Church of Saint Iohn Baptist enclosed on every side in a round compasse with hilles mounting up into the aire covered with lead and built sightly as the nature of the place would permit with an arched roofe of stone in a place where had stood aforetime a poore Chappell of Saint David the Archbishop adorned onely with wilde mosse and wreathes of clasping ivie A fit place for true Religion and of all the Monasteries in the Island of Britaine most convenient for Canonicall Discipline being founded first by two Eremits in the honour of an Eremite farre remooved from all stirres and noise of people in a certaine desert and solitary nouke seated upon the River Hodney running along the botome of the Vale whereof and of Hodney together it is called Lanhodeny For Lhan signifieth a Church or Ecclesiasticall place But if we will speake more exquisitely it may be said that the proper name of that place is in Welsh Nanthodeny For even to this day they that dwell thereabout call it Lhan Devi Nanthodeny That is Davids Church upon the River Hodeney Now the raine which mountaines breed falleth heere very often the windes blow strong and all Winter time almost it is continually cloudy and misty weather And yet notwithstanding such is the healthfull temperature of the aire which the grosser it is the gentler and milder it is very seldome there are any diseases heere The Cloisterers sitting heere in their Cloistures when to refresh and breathe themselves they chance to looke up they see on every side of them over the high roofes and ridges of their houses the tops of the hils touching as it were the skie and the very wilde Deere for the most part whereof there is heere great store feeding aloft as one would say in the farthest Horizon or kenning of their sight And it is betweene one and three of the clocke or thereabout in a faire cleere day ere they can see heere the body of the Sunne so much adoe he hath to get above the hill tops by that time And a little after The fame that went of this place drew Roger Bishop of Salisbury hither being then the chiefe Governour of the Realme under the King who when hee had a good while considered with admiration the nature of the place the desert solitarinesse the Eremeticall state and condition of the religious men there serving God without complaining together with their conversation in every respect without murmuring and grudging returned home to the King and making report unto him of such things there as were worth relation when he had spent the most part of the day in commendation of the foresaid place at length knit up all the praises thereof in this one word What should I say more quoth hee All the treasure both of King and Kingdome will not suffice to build this Cloisture when as therefore he had held a good while as well the King as the whole Court in suspense wondering as they did at this speech at length he expounded the darke riddle of his words by meaning the Cloistures of those hilles wherewith it is enclosed on every side But heereof enough if not too much By the River Munow are to bee seene Grossemont and Skinffrith Castles belonging in times past by the grant of King John to the Breoses afterwards to Hubert de Burgh Earle of Kent who that he might calme the Court-tempests of displeasure and for the renewing of peace and recovering former favour resigned both these and withall Blanc-castle and Hanfield into the hands of King Henry the Third In the other corner North-Eastward Munow and Wye at their confluence doe compasse almost round about the chiefe Towne of the Shire and give it the name For in the British tongue it is called Mongwy and in ours Monmouth On the North-side where it is not defended with the Rivers it was fortified with a wall and ditch In the middest of the Towne hard by the Mercate place standeth a Castle which as it is thought John Baron of Monmouth built from whom it came to the house of Lancaster after that King Henry the Third had taken from him all his inheritance for that he had sided with the Barons and stood rebelliously against him or rather as wee reade in the Kings Prerogative because his heires had given their faith and allegeance to the Earle of Britaine in France And ever since that time the
withdrawne it selfe more inwardly Upon this Bay Kidwelly first offereth it selfe to our sight the Territory whereof Kâ—tani the Scot his sonnes held for a time untill they were driven out by Cuneda the Britan. But now it is counted part of the inheritance of the Dutchy of Lancaster by the heires of Maurice of London or De Londres who making an outroad hither out of Glamorgan-shire after a dangerous war made himselfe Lord heereof and fortified old Kidwelly with a wall and Castle to it which now for very age is growne to decay and standeth as it were forlet and forlorne For the Inhabitants having passed over the little River Vendraeth Vehan built a new Kidwelly entised thither by the commodity of the haven which notwithstanding at this day being choked with shelves and barres is at this present of no great use Whiles Maurice of London invaded these parts Guenliana the wife of Prince Gruffin a stout and resolute woman in the highest degree to recover the losses and declining state of her husband came with displaied banner into the field and fiercely assailed him but the successe not answerable to her courage shee with her sonne Morgan and other men of especiall note as Girald recordeth was slaine in battaile By Hawis or Avis the daughter and heire of Sir Thomas of London this passing faire and large patrimony together with the Title of Lord of Ogmor and Kidwelly came unto Patricke-Chaworth and by his sonne Patrickes daughter unto Henry Earle of Lancaster Now the heires of the said Maurice of London as we learne out of an old Inquisition for this inheritance were bound to this service that if their Soveraigne Lord the King or his chiefe Justice came into the parts about Kidwelly with an Army they should conduct the foresaid Army with their banners and their people through the middest of Nethland as farre as to Loghar A few miles beneath Kidwelly the River Tovie which Ptolomee calleth TOBIUS falleth into the the Sea after he hath passed through this Region from North-East to South first by Lanandiffry so called as men thinke of Rivers meeting together which Hoel the sonne of Rhese overthrew for malice that hee bare unto the English then by Dinevor a princely Castle standing aloft upon the top of an hill and belonging unto the Princes of South Wales whiles they flourished and last of all by Caer Marden which the Britans themselves call Caer-Firdhin Ptolomee MARIDUNUM Antonine MURIDUNUM who endeth his Journeies there and through negligence of the transcribers is in this place not well used For they have confounded the Journeies from Galena to Isca and from Maridunum to Viriconium This is the chiefe City of the country for medowes and woods pleasant and in regard of antiquity to be respected Compassed about very properly as Giraldus saith with bricke walles which are partly yet standing upon the famous river Tovit able to beare small ships although there be now a barre of sand cast up against the very mouth thereof In this City was borne the Tages of the Britans I meane Merlin For like as Tages being the sonne of an evill Angell taught his Countrimen the Tuscans the art of Sooth saying so this Merlin the sonne of an Incubus Spirit devised for our Britans prophesies nay rather meere phantasticall dreames Whereby in this Island he hath been accounted among the credulous and unskilfull people a most renowned Prophet Straight after the Normans entring into Wales this City was reduced but I wot not by whose conduct under their subjection and for a long time sore afflicted with many calamities and distresses being oftentimes assaulted once or twice set on fire first by Gruffin ap Rise then by Rise the said Gruffins brother at which time Henry Turbervill an Englishman succoured the Castle and hewed downe the Bridge But afterwards by the meanes of Gilbert de Clare who fortified both the walles thereof and the Castles adjoyning it was freed from these miseries and being once eased of all grievances and in security endured afterwards more easily from time to time the tempests of warre and all assaults And the Princes of Wales of the English bloud I meane the first begotten sonnes of the Kings of England ordained heere their Chauncery and Exchequer for all South Wales Neere unto this City on the East side lyeth Cantred-Bichan that is The lesse Hundred for the Britans terme a portion of land that containeth 100. Villages a Cantred in which beside the ruines of Careg Castle situate upon a Rocke rising on every side steepe and upright there are many under-mines or caves of very great widenesse within the ground now covered all over with green-sord and turfe wherein it is thought the multitude unable to beare armes hid themselves during the heate of warre there is also heere a Fountaine that as Giraldus writeth Twice in foure and twenty houres ebbing and twice flowing resembleth the unstable motions of the maine Sea But on the North-East side there stretcheth it selfe a great way out Cantredmaur that is The great hundred a most safe refuge for the Britans in times past as being thicke set with woods combersome to travaile in by reason the waies are intricate by the windings in and out of the hils Southward stand Talcharn and Lhan-Stephan Castles upon rockes of the Sea which are most notable witnesses of martiall valour and prowesse as well in the English as in the Welsh Beneath Talcharn Taff sheddeth it selfe into the Sea by the side whereof was in times past that famous Twy Gwin ar Taff that is The white house upon the River Taff because it was built of white Hazels for a summer house where in the yeere of our Redemption 914. Hoel sirnamed Dha that is Good Prince of Wales in a frequent Assembly of his States for there met there beside others of the Clergie one hundred and forty abrogated the ancient ordinances and established new lawes for his Subjects as the Prooeme to the very lawes themselves doe witnesse In which place afterward a little Abbay named White land was built Not farre from whence is Killmayn Lhoyd where of late daies certaine country people hapned upon an earthen Vessell in which was hourded a mighty deale of Romane Coine of embased silver from the time of Commodus the Romane Emperour who first embased silver unto the fifth Tribuneship of Gordian the third which fell just with the yeere of Christ 243. Among these were certaine peeces of Helvius Pertinax of Marcus Opellius of Antoninus Diadumenianus of Julius Verus Maximus the sonne of Maximinus of Calius Balbivus of Clodius Pupienus of Aquilia Severa the wife of Elagabalus and of Sall. Barbia Orbiana which among Antiquaries are of greatest price and estimation as being most rare of all others Now it remaineth that I should relate how upon the river Tivy that separateth this County from Cardigan-shire there standeth New-Castle for so they call
up under his feete by report to an hillocke Thus farre and somewhat farther also Tivie holdeth on his course Southward to Lan-Beder a little Mercate Towne From hence Tivie turning his streame Westward carryeth a broader chanell and neere unto Kilgarran falleth downe right headlong as it were from aloft and maketh that Salmons Leape whereof I spake ere while For exceeding great store of Salmons it yeeldeth and was in times past the onely British River as Giraldus Cambrensis was of opinion that had Bevers in it This Beaver is a creature living both on land and water footed before like a Dog and behinde like a Goose with an ash-coloured skin somewhat blackish having a long taile broad and griftly which in his floting he useth in lieu of a sterne Concerning the subtile wilinesse of which creatures the said Giraldus hath observed many things but at this day none of them are heere to be seene Scarce two miles from hence standeth upon a steepe banke Cardigan which the Britans name Aber-Tivy that is Tivy-mouth the Shire-towne strongly fortified by Gilbert the sonne of Richard De Clare which afterwards being by treason yeelded up Rhise Ap Gruffin rased when hee had taken prisoner Robert Fitz-Stephen whom some call Stephanides who after hee had stood a long time at the devotion of the Welshmen his heavie friends for his life being at length delivered on this condition that hee should resigne up into their hands all his possessions in Wales was the first of the Norman race that with a small power of men fortunately set foote in Ireland and by his valour made way for the English to follow and second him for subduing Ireland under the Crowne of England From Tivie mouth the shore gently giveth backe and openeth for it selfe the passage of many Riverets among which in the upper part of the Shire STUCCIA whereof Ptolomee maketh mention is most memorable when as the name of it continueth after a sort whole at this day being called in common speech Ystwith at the head whereof are veines of Lead and at the mouth the Towne Aber-y-stwith the most populous and plenteous place of the whole Shire which that noble Gilbert de Clare also fensed with walles and Walter Bec an Englishman defended a great while against the Welsh right manfully Hard hereunto lyeth Lhan Badern vaur that is The Church of Patern the great who being borne in little Britaine as wee reade in his life both governed the Church by feeding and fed it by governing Unto whose memory the posterity consecrated heere as well a Church as also an Episcopall See But the Bishopricke as Roger Hoveden writeth quite decayed many yeeres since when the people had wickedly slaine their Pastour At the same mouth also the River Ridol dischargeth it selfe into the Irish sea This River descending out of Plinlimon an exceeding steepe and high hill that encloseth the North part of the Shire and powreth out of his lap those most noble Rivers Severn and Wy whereof I have already often spoken And not much above Y-stwith mouth the River Devi that serveth in stead of a limite betweene this and Merionith-shire is lodged also within the Sea Scarce had the Normans setled their Kingdome in Britaine when they assailed this Coast with a Fleet by Sea and that verily with good successe For by little and little in the Raigne of King William Rufus they wrested the maritime Coasts out of the Welshmens hands but the greatest part thereof they granted unto Cadugan Ap Blethin a right wise and prudent Britain who was highly esteemed and of great power throughout all Wales and evermore shewed much favour and friendship to the English But when his sonne Oën a furious and heady young man who could at no hand away with peace infested the Englishmen and Flemings newly come thither with continuall invations the unhappy father was fined with the losse of his lands and punished for the offenses of his sonne who was himselfe also constreined to relinquish his native Country and to flie into Ireland Then this Cardigan-shire was given by King Henry the First unto Gilbert de Clare who placed Garisons and fortified Castles there But Cadugan with his sonne Oën received into favour againe by the English recovered also his owne lands and inheritance But Oën returning to his old bias and rebelling afresh was slaine by Girald the Castellan of Penbroke whose wife Nesta he had carryed away and ravished And his father being had away into England long expected for a change of better fortune and at length in his old age being restored to his owne home and friends was upon the sodaine by Madoc his Nephew stabbed through the body After this Roger de Clare through the liberality of King Henry the Second had Cardigan-shire bestowed upon him but when Richard of Clare his Nephew if I be not deceived whiles he came hither by land was slaine by the Welsh Rhise Prince of South-Wales having made a great massacre of English and driven them out at length with his victorious Army became Lord thereof neverthelesse it fell againe by little and little into the hands of the English without any bloudshed There are in this Shire Parishes 64. ORDEVICES THese Countries of the Silures and Dimetae which wee have hitherto travailed over the Posterity when Wales was subject to three Princes called in their tongue Deheu-barth that is The part lying on the right hand and Englishmen South-Wales as â—ath beene said before The other two Principalities which they tearme Guineth and Powis wee North-Wales and Powisland were inhabited in ancient times by the ORDOVICES who also bee named ORDEVICES ORDOVICAE and in some places although most corruptly Ordolucae A puissant and courageous Nation by reason they keepe wholly in a mountainous Country and take heart even of the Soile and which continued the longest free from the yoake both of Romanes and also of English dominion neither was it subdued by the Romanes before the daies of the Emperour Domitiane For then Iulius Agricola conquered almost the whole Nation nor brought under the English before the dayes of King Edward the First For a long time they lived in a lawlesse kinde of liberty as bearing themselves bold both upon their owne valour and the strength of the Country hard to be wonne and which may seeme after a sort naturally accommodated for ambushments and to prolong warres To lay out and limite the bounds of the ORDEVICES in a generality is not so hard a matter but to set downe the true etymologie and reason of their name I thinke it very difficult Yet have I conceived this coniecture that seeing they were seated over the two Rivers Devi that arising from two springs neere together take their course divers waies and considering that Oar-Devi in their British tongue signifieth Vpon or above Devi they were thence named Ordevices like as the Aruerni had that name because they dwelt upon the river
doth the word import so it hath communicated that name unto the whole Country for heereupon the English men call it Caer-narvon-shire This is encompassed with a very small circuit of walles about it and in manner round but the same exceeding strong and to set it the better out sheweth a passing faire Castle which taketh up the whole West side of it The private buildings for the manner of that Countrey are sightly enough and the inhabitants for their courtesie much commended who thinke it a point of their glorie that King Edward the First founded their Citie that his Sonne King Edward the Second was heere borne and surnamed of Caer-narvon who also was of the English line the first Prince of Wales and also the Princes of Wales had heere their Chauncerie their Exchequer and their Iustice for North-Wales About seven miles hence by the same narrow Sea standeth Bangor or Banchor low seated enclosed on the South side with a Mountaine of great heighth on the North with a little hill so called A choro pulchro that is of a faire quire or as some would have it quasi Locus Chori that is as if it were the place of a quire Which being a Bishops See hath within the Diocese thereof 96. Parishes The Church was consecrated unto Daniel sometime Bishop thereof but that which now standeth is of no especiall faire building for Owen Glendoverdwy that most notorious Rebell who had purposed utterly to destroy all the Cities of Wales set it on fire for that they stood for the King of England and defaced the ancient Church which albeit Henry Deney Bishop of the same repaired about the time of King Henry the Seventh yet it scarcely recovered the former dignity Now the Towne is small but in times past so large that for the greatnesse thereof it was called Banchor Vaur that is Great Banchor and Hugh Earle of Chester fortified it with a Castle whereof I could finde no footings at all though I sought them with all diligent inquiry But that Castle was situate upon the very entry of the said narrow Sea Over the Menay or streight hereby King Edward the First that he might transport his Army into Mona or Anglesey whereof I must treat anon in due order went about with great labour to make a bridge but all in vaine Albeit Suctonius Paulinus conveyed over his Romane Souldiers long before into Mona his Horsemen at a Fourd and the Footemen in little flat botomed boates as we reade in Tacitus From hence the shore raising it selfe with a bending ascent runneth on by Penmaen-maur that is The great stony head a very exceeding high and steepe Rocke which hanging over the Sea when it is floud affourdeth a very narrow path way for passengers having on the one side huge stones over their heads as if they were ready to fall upon them on the other side the raging Ocean lying of a wonderfull steepe depth under it But after a man hath passed over this together with Pen-maen bychan that is the lesser stony head he shall come to an open broad plaine that reacheth as farre as to the River Conwey which limiteth this Shire on the East side This River in Ptolomee after a corrupt manner of writing Greeke is called TOISOVIUS for CONOVIUS It issueth out of a Poole of the same name in the South border of the Shire and being pent in and as it were strangled runneth apace within a very narrow chanell as farre almost as to the mouth thereof breeding certaine Shell-fishes which being conceived of an Heavenly deaw bring forth Pearles and there giveth he name unto the Towne CONOVIUM which Antonine mentioneth And although it now lie all along and that name there be utterly extinct yet by a new name it doth covertly implie the antiquity For a very small and poore village standing among the rubbish thereof is called Caer hean that is the ancient City Out of the spoile and ruines whereof King Edward the First built a new Towne at the very mouth of the River which thereupon they call Aber-Conwey that is the mouth of Conwey which place Hugh of Chester had before-time fortified But this New Conovium or Aber-Conwey being strongly situated and fensed both with walls and also with a very proper Castle by the Rivers side deserveth the name rather of a prety Citie than of a Towne but that it is not replenished with Inhabitants Opposite unto this Towne and yet on this side of the River which is passed by ferry and not by bridge reacheth out a huge Promontory with a bending elbow as if nature purposed to make there a road and harbour for Ships which is also counted part of this Shire and is named Gogarth wherein stood Diganwy an ancient City just over the River Conwey where it issueth into the Sea which was burnt many yeeres agoe with lightning And I am of opinion that it was the City DICTUM where under the later Emperours the Captaine over the band of the Nervians Dictenses kept their guard And for that afterwards it was called Diganwy who seeth not that the said Canwey came of Conwey and from thence the English name Ganoc For so was that Castle called which afterwards King Henry the Third built in that place to bridle the Welsh Straight after the Normans comming into this Island Gruffin ap Conan governed this Country who being not able to represse the English troupes who swarmed into Wales yeelded otherwhiles unto the tempest and at length when with his integrity and uprightnesse he had regained the favour of King Henry the First he easily also recovered his owne lands of the English and left them to his heires successively untill the time of Lhewelyn ap Gruffith who when he had provoked his owne Brethren with wrongs and the English men with inrodes was brought to this passe that hee held this hilly Country together with the Isle Anglesey of King Edward the First as Tenant in Fee and paid for it yeerely a thousand Markes Which conditions afterward when hee would not stand unto and following rather his owne and his Brothers stubborne wilfulnesse than any good hope to prevaile would needes put all once againe to the hazard of warre he was slaine and so both ended his owne life and withall the British government in Wales It hath in it Parish Churches 68. ANGLESEY Conitatus olim MONA INSULA Druidum sedes Britannice Tir Mon THE ISLE MONA or of ANGLESEY THe County of Caer-Nar-von which I last ranne through tooke name as I said erewhile of the chiefe Towne therein and the said Towne of the Isle Mona which lieth over against it and requireth as it were of right that I should treat of it in his due place which unwillingly heeretofore I confesse I referred to the out Islands whereas by right it is to be placed among the Shires This Isle called of the Romans MONA of the Britans Mon and Tir-Mon that is the
the publike records of the Kingdome were buried a daughter of King Iohn a sonne of the King of the Danes the bodies also of the Lord Clifford and of other Lords Knights and Squires who in the time of the noble and renowned Kings of England were slaine in the Warres against the Welsh The next Towne in name to Beau-Marish is Newburg called in British Rossur standing ten miles off Westward which having been a long time greatly annoyed with heaps of sand driven in by the Sea complaineth that it hath lost much of the former state that it had Aber-fraw is not farre from hence which is now but an obscure and meane Towne yet in times past it excelled all the rest farre in worth and dignity as having been the Royall seat of the Kings of Guineth or North-Wales And in the utmost Promontorie Westward which wee call Holy-head there standeth a little poore Towne in British Caer-Guby so named of Kibie a right holy man and a disciple of Saint Hilarie of Poitiers who therein devoted himselfe to the service of God and from whence there is an usuall passage over into Ireland All the rest of this Island is well bespred with Villages which because they have in them nothing materially memorable I will crosse over into the Continent and view Denbigh-shire In this County there are reckoned Parishes 74. DENBIGH Comitatus pars Olim ORDOVICVM DENBIGH-SHIRE ON this side of the River Conwey DENBIGH-SHIRE in Welsh Sire Denbigh retyreth more within the Country from the Sea and shooteth Eastward in one place as farre as to the River Dee On the North North-West first the Sea for a small space and then Flint-shire on the West Merionith and Montgomery-shires on the East Cheshire and Shropp-shire encompasse it The West part is barraine the middle where it lyeth flat in a Valley most fruitfull The East side when it is once past the Valley hath not Nature so favourable unto it but next unto Dee it findeth her farre more kinde The West part but that it is somewhat more plentifull and pleasant toward the sea side is but heere and there inhabited and mounteth up more with bare and hungry hils but yet the painfull diligence and witty industry of the husbandmen hath begunne a good while since to overcome this leannesse of the soile where the hilles settle any thing flattish as in other parts of Wales likewise For after they have with a broad kinde of spade pared away the upper coat as it were or sord of the earth into certaine turfes they pile them up artificially on heapes put fire to them and burne them to ashes which being throwne upon the ground so pared and flayed causeth the hungry barrainnesse thereof so to fructifie that the fields bring forth a kinde of Rhie or Amel corne in such abundance as it is incredible Neither is this a new devise thus to burne the ground but very ancient as we may see in Virgil and Horace Among these Hilles there is a place commonly called Cerigy Drudion that is The stones of the Druidae and certaine little columnes or pillars are seene at Yvoellas with inscriptions in them of strange Characters which some imagine to have beene erected by the Druides and not farre from Clocainog this inscription is read in a stone AMILLIN TOVISATOC By the Vale side where these mountaines beginne now to wax thinner upon the hanging of a rocke standeth Denbigh called of our Britans by a more ancient name Cled Fryn-yn Ross that is A rough hill in Ross for so they call that part of the Shire which King Edward the First gave with other faire lands and possessions to David the brother of Lhewellin But when he soone after being found guilty of high treason was beheaded Henry Lacy Earle of Lincolne obtained it by the grant of the said King Edward and he fortified it with a wall about not large in circuit but strong and on the South side with a proper Castle strengthned with high Towres In the well whereof after that his onely sonne fortuned to be drowned the most sorrowfull father conceived such griefe that he gave over the worke and left it unfinished And after his death the Towne with the rest of the possessions descended unto the house of Lancaster by his daughter Alice who survived From whom notwithstanding it came first through the liberality of King Edward the Second when the said house was dejected unto Hugh Spenser Earle of Winchester then to Roger Mortimer by covenant and composition with King Edward the Third and the said Mortimers Armes are to be seene upon the chiefe gate But after that he was executed it with the Cantreds of Ross and Riewinoc c. were granted to William Montacute after Earle of Salisbury for supprising of Mortimer and shortly after it was restored unto the Mortimers and by them at length descended to the Family of Yorke At which time they of the House of Lancaster for the malice they bare unto Edward the Fourth who was of the family of Yorke did much hurt unto it And then either because the inhabitants like not the steepe situation thereof for the carriage up and downe was very incommodious or by reason that it wanted water they remooved downe from thence by little and little so as that this ancient Towne hath now few or none dwelling in it But a new one farre bigger than it sprung up at the very foote of the hill which is so well peopled and inhabited that by reason that the Church is not able to receive the multitude they beganne to build a new one in the place where the old Towne stood partly at the charges of their Lord Robert Earle of Leicester and partly with the money which they have gathered of many well disposed throughout England For the said Robert in the yeere 1564. was created by Queene Elizabeth Baron of Deubigh to him and the heires of his body lawfully begotten Neither is there any one Barony in all England that hath more Gentlemen holding thereof in fee and by service Now are we come into the very heart of the shire where Nature having removed the hils out of the way on both sides to shew what she could doe in a rough country hath spred beneath them a most beautifull pleasant vale reaching 17. miles in length from South to North and five miles or thereabout in bredth which lyeth open only toward the sea and the cleering North winde otherwise environed it is on every side with high hilles and those from the East side as it were embatled For such is the wonderfull workmanship of nature that the tops of these mountaines resemble in fashion the battlement of walles Among which the highest is Moilenlly on the top whereof I saw a warlike fense with trench and rampire also a little fountaine of cleere water This vale for wholsomenesse fruitfulnesse and pleasantnesse excelleth The colour and complexion of the Inhabitants is healthy their
high and steepe Hill which hath no easie passage on even ground unto it but of one side are seene the manifest tokens of a Rampire some ruines of walles and of a Castle which was guarded about with a triple strength of Forts and Bulwarkes Some will have this also to have beene OLICANA But the trueth saith otherwise and namely that it is CAMBODUNUM which Ptolomee calleth amisse CAMULODUNUM and Beda by a word divided CAMPO-DUNUM This is prooved by the distance thereof on the one side from MANCUNIUM on the other from CALCARIA according to which Antonine placeth it Moreover it seemeth to have flourished in very great honour when the English Saxons first beganne to rule For the Kings Towne it was and had in it a Cathedrall Church built by Paulinus the Apostle of these parts and the same dedicated to Saint Alban whence in stead of Albon-bury it is now called Almon-bury But when Ceadwall the Britan and Penda the Mercian made sharpe warre upon Edwin the Prince of these Countries it was set on fire by the enemy as Beda writeth which the very adust and burnt colour as yet remaining upon the stones doth testifie Yet afterwards there was a Castle built in the same place which King Stephen as I have read confirmed unto Henry Lacy. Hard unto it lyeth Whitly the habitation of an ancient and notable Family of Beaumont which notwithstanding is different from that House of the Barons and Vicounts Beau-mont yet it was of great name in this Tract before their comming into England Calder now leaving these places behinde him and having passed by Kirkley an house in times past of religious Nunnes and the Tombe of Robin Hood that right good and honest Robber in which regard he is so much spoken of goeth to Dewsborrough seated under an high Hill Whether it had the name of DVI that tutelar God of the place of whom I wrote a little before I am not able to say Surely the name is not unlike for it soundeth as much as Duis Burgh and flourished at the very first infancy as it were of the Church springing up amongst the Englishmen in this Province for I have heard that there stood a Crosse heere with this Inscription PAULINUS HIC PRAEDICAVIT ET CELEBRAVIT that is PAULINUS HERE PREACHED AND CELEBRATED DIVINE SERVICE And that this Paulinus was the first Archbishop of Yorke about the yeere of our Redemption 626. all Chronicles doe accord From hence Calder running by Thornhill which from Knights of that sirname is descended to the Savills passeth hard by Wakefield a Towne famous for clothing for greatnesse for faire building a well frequented Mercate and a Bridge upon which King Edward the Fourth erected a beautifull Chappell in memoriall of those that lost their lives there in battaile The Possession sometime this was of the Earles of Warren and of Surry as also Sandall Castle adjoyning which John Earle of Warren who was alwaies fleshly lustfull built when he had used the wife of Thomas Earle of Lancaster more familiarly than honesty would require to the end he might deteine and keepe her in it securely from her Husband By this Townes side when the civill warre was hote heere in England and setled in the very bowels thereof Richard Duke of Yorke father to King Edward the Fourth who chose rather to hazard his fortune than to stay the good time thereof was slaine in the field by those that tooke part with the House of Lancaster The Tract lying heere round about for a great way together is called The Seigniory or Lordship of Wakefield and hath alwaies for the Seneschall or Steward one of the better sort of Gentlemen dwelling thereby Which Office the Savills have oftentimes borne who are heere a very great and numerous Family and at this day Sir John Savill Knight beareth it who hath a very sightly faire house not farre off at Howley which maketh a goodly shew Calder is gone scarce five miles farther when he betaketh both his water and his name also to the River Are. Where at their very meeting together standeth betweene them Medley in times past 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 so called for the situation as it were in the middest betweene two Rivers The seat it was in the age aforegoing of Sir Robert Waterton Master of the Horse to King Henry the Fourth but now of Sir John Savill a right worshipfull Knight and a most worthy Baron of the Kings Exchequer whom I acknowledge full gladly in his love and courtesie to have favoured me and out of his learning to have furthered this worke This river Are springing out of the bothom of the hill Pennigent which among the Westerne hils mounteth aloft above the rest doth forthwith so sport himselfe with winding in and out as doubtfull whether hee should returne backe to his spring-head or runne on still to the sea that my selfe in going directly forward on my way was faine to passe over it seven times in an houres riding It is so calme and milde and carryeth so gentle and slow a streame that it seemeth not to runne at all but to stand still whence I suppose it tooke the name For as I have said before Ara in the British tongue betokeneth Milde Still and Slow whereupon that slow River in France Araris hath his name The Country lying about the head of this River is called in our tongue Craven perchance of the British word Crage that is a Stone For the whole Tract there is rough all over and unpleasant to see to with craggy stones hanging rockes and rugged waies in the middest whereof as it were in a lurking hole not farre from Are standeth Skipton and lyeth hidden and enclosed among steepe Hilles in like manner as Latium in Italie which Varro supposeth to have beene so called because it lyeth close under Apennine and the Alpes The Towne for the manner of their building among these Hilles is faire enough and hath a very proper and a strong Castle which Robert de Rumeley built by whose posterity it came by inheritance to the Earles of Aumarle And when their inheritance for default of heires fell by escheat into the Kings hands Robert de Clifford whose heires are now Earles of Cumberland by way of exchange obtained of King Edward the Second both this Castle and also faire lands round about it every way delivering into the Kings hands in lieu of the same the possessions that he had in the Marches of Wales When Are is once past Craven hee spreadeth broader and passeth by more pleasant fields lying on each side of it and Kigheley among them which gave name to the worshipfull Family of Kigheley so sirnamed thereof Of which Family Henry Kigheley obtained of king Edward the First for this Manour of his The Liberty of a Mercate and Faire and free warren So that no man might enter into those lands to bunt and chace in them or
to take any thing that pertained to the Warren without the licence and good will of Henry himselfe and his Successours Which was counted in that age for a speciall favour and I note it once for all that we may see what Free Warren was But the male issue of this Family in the right line ended in Henry Kigheley of Inskip Howbeit the daughters and heires were wedded to William Cavendish now Baron Cavendish of Hardwick and to Thomas Worseley of Boothes From hence Are passeth beside Kirkstall an Abbay in times past of no small reckoning founded by Henry Lacy in the yeere 1147. and at length visiteth Leedes in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which became a house of the Kings when CAMBODUNUM was by the enemy burnt to the ground now a rich Towne by reason of clothing where Oswy king of Northumberland put to flight Penda the Mercian And as Bede saith this was to the great profit of both Nations for he both delivered his owne people from the hostile spoiling of the miscreants and also converted the Mercians themselves to the grace of Christian Faith The very place wherein they joyned battaile the writers call Winwidfield which name I suppose was given it of the Victory like as a place in Westphalia where Quintilius Varus with his legions was slaine is in the Dutch tongue called Winfield that is The fields of victory as that most learned man and my very good friend Abraham Ortelius hath observed The little Region or Territory about it was in times past by an old name called Elmet which Eadwin king of Northumberland the sonne of AElla after hee had expelled Cereticus a British king conquered in the yeere of Christ 620. Herein is digged limestone every where which is burnt at Brotherton and Knottingley and at certaine set times as it were at Faires a mighty quantity thereof is conveied to Wakefield Sandall and Stanbridge and so is sold unto this Westerne Country which is hilly and somewhat cold for to manure and enrich their Corne fields But let us leave these things to Husbandmen as for my selfe I professe my ignorance therein and will goe forward as I beganne At length Are entertaineth Calder aforesaid with his water as his Guest where neere unto the meeting of both Rivers standeth Castleford a little Village Marianus nameth it Casterford who reporteth that the Citizens of Yorke slew many of king Ethelreds Army there whom in their pursuite they set upon and charged heere and there at advantages what time as hee invaded and overranne this Country for breaking the allegeance they had sworne unto him But in Antonine this place is called by a more ancient name LEGEOLIUM and LAGETIUM Wherein beside expresse and notable tokens of Antiquity a mighty number of Roman peeces of money the common people there tearme them Sarasins head were found at Beanfield a place so called now of Beanes hard by the Church The distance also from DAN and YORKE betweene which he placed it doth most cleerely confirme as much to say nothing of the situation thereof hard by the Romanes High Street and last of all for that Roger Hoveden in plaine tearmes calleth it A City From hence Are being now bigger after it hath received Calder unto it leaveth on the left hand Brotherton a little Towne in which Queene Margaret turning thither out of the way as she road on hunting was delivered of childe and brought forth unto her Husband king Edward the First Thomas de Brotherton so named of the place who was afterward Earle of Norfolke and Mareshall of England And not farre beneath Are after it hath received into it Dan looseth himselfe in Ouse On the right hand where a yellower kinde of marke is found which being cast and spred upon the fields maketh them beare Corne for many yeeres together he passeth by Ponttract commonly called Pontfret situate not farre from the river banke which Towne gat life as it were by the death of old Legeolium In the Saxons time it was called Kirkby but the Normans of a broken Bridge named it in French Pontfract Upon this occasion it is commonly thought that the wooden Bridge over Are hard by was broken when a mighty multitude of people accompanied William Archibishop a great number fell into the River and yet by reason that the Archbishop shed many a teare at this accident and called upon God for helpe there was not one of them that perished Seated it is in a very pleasant place that bringeth forth Liquirice and skirworts in great plenty adorned also with faire buildings and hath to shew a stately Castle as a man shall see situate upon a rocke no lesse goodly to the eye than safe for the defence well fortified with ditches and bulwarkes Hildebert Lacy a Norman unto whom king William the First after that Alricke the Saxon was thrust out had given this Towne with the land about it first built this Castle But Henry Lacy his nephew came into the field at the battaile of Trenchbrey I speake out of the Pleas against King Henry the First wherefore hee was disseised of the Barony of Pontfract and the King gave the Honour to Wido de Lavall who held it untill King Stephens dayes at which time the said Henry made an entry into the Barony and by mediation of the King compounded with Wido for an hundred and fifty pounds This Henry had a sonne named Robert who having no issue left Albreda Lizours his sister by the mothers side and not by the father to bee his heire because hee had none other so neere in bloud unto him whereby shee after Roberts death kept both inheritances in her hand namely of her brother Lacies and her father Lizours And these be the very words of the booke of the Monastery of Stanlow This Albreda was marryed to Richard Fitz Eustach Constable of Chester whose Heires assumed unto them the name of Lacies and flourished under the title of Earles of Lincolne By a daughter of the last of these Lacies this goodly inheritance by a deede of conveyance was devolved in the end to the Earles of Lancaster who enlarged the Castle very much and Queene Elizabeth likewise bestowed great cost in repairing it and beganne to build a faire Chappell This place hath beene infamous for the murder and bloudshed of Princes For Thomas Earle of Lancaster the first of Lancastrian House that in right of his wife possessed it stained and embrewed the same with his owne bloud For King Edward the Second to free himselfe from rebellion and contempt shewed upon him a good example of wholsome severity and beheaded him heere Whom notwithstanding standing the common people enrolled in the Beadroll of Saints Heere also was that Richard the Second King of England whom King Henry the Fourth deposed from his Kingdome with hunger cold and strange kindes of torments most wickedly made away And heere King Richard the
Bishop of the heathen rites and ceremonies after he had once embraced Christian Religion First of all profaned this Temple the very habitation of impiety by launcing a speare against it yea he destroyed it and as Bede writeth Set it on fire with all the enclosures and Isles belonging unto it From hence something more Eastward the River Hull bendeth his course to Humber which River hath his spring head neere unto Driffeild a Village well knowne by reason of the Tombe of Alfred that most learned King of Northumberland and the mounts that be raised heere and there about it The said River hasteneth thitherward not farre from Leckenfielde an house of the Percies Earles of Northumberland neere unto which standeth the dwelling place of a very famous and ancient Progeny of the Hothams at Schorburg together with the rubbish of an old Castle of Peter Mauley at Garthum And now approcheth the River Hull neerer unto Beverley in the English Saxon tongue called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which Bede seemeth to name the Monastery in Deirwand that is In the word of the Deiri a great Towne very populous and full of trade A man would guesse it by the name and situation to be PETUARIA PARISIORUM although it affordeth nothing of greater antiquity than that John sirnamed de Beverley Archbishop of Yorke a man as Bede witnesseth both godly and learned after he had given over his Bishopricke as weary of this world came hither and ended his life in contemplation about the yeere of our Redemption 721. The Kings held the memoriall of this John so sacred and reverend especially King Athelstan who honoured him as his tutelar Saint after he had put the Danes to flight that they endowed this place with many and those very great priviledges and Athelstane granted them liberties in these generall words All 's free make I thee as heart may thinke or eye may see Yea and there was granted unto it the priviledges of a Sanctuary so that bankrupts and men suspected of any capitall crime worthy of death might bee free and safe there from danger of the Law In which there was erected a Chaire of stone with this Inscription HAEC SEDES LAPIDEA Freedstoll DICITUR .i. PACIS CATHEDRA AD QUAM REUS FUGIENDO PERVENIENS OMNIMODAM HABET SECURITATEM That is This seat of Stone is called Freedstooll that is The chaire of Peace unto which what Offender soever flieth and commeth hath all manner of security Heereby the Towne grew great and daily there flocked hither a number to dwell as inmates and the Townesmen for conveyance of commodities by sea made a chanell for a water course out of the River Hull sufficient to carry boats and barges For the chiefe Magistracy there it had twelve Wardens afterwards Governours and Wardens And now by the gracious grant of Queene Elizabeth a Major and Governours More Eastward there flourished Meaux Abbay so called of one Gamell borne at Meaux in France who obtained it at William the Conquerours hands for a place to dwell in and heere was founded an Abbay for the Monkes of the Cluniacke order by William Le Grosse Earle of Aulbemarle to bee released of his vow that hee had made to visite Jerusalem A little lower runneth out in a great length Cottingham a country Towne of husbandry where by licence granted from King John Robert Estotevill the Lord thereof built a Castle now utterly fallen to ruine Which Robert was descended from Robert Grondebeofe or Grandebeofe a Baron of Normandy and a man of great name and reputation whose inheritance fell by marriage to the Lord de Wake and by a daughter of John de Wake it came to Edmund Earle of Kent who had a daughter named Joane wife unto that most warlique Knight Edward Prince of Wales who so often victoriously vanquished the French in divers places The River Hull aforesaid after it hath passed sixe miles from hence sheddeth himselfe into Humber and neere unto his mouth hath a Towne of his owne name called Kingston upon Hull but commonly Hull This Towne fetcheth the beginning from no great antiquity For King Edward the First who in regard of his Princely vertues deserveth to bee ranged among the principall and best Kings that ever were having well viewed and considered the opportunity of the place which before time was called Wike had it by right of exchange from the Abbat of Meaux and in lieu of the Beasts stals and sheepe pastures as I conceive it which there he found built a Towne that he named Kingston as one would say The Kings Towne and there as wee reade in the Records of the Kingdome hee made an haven and free Burgh the Inhabitants thereof also free Burgesses and he granted divers liberties unto them And by little and little it rose to that dignity that for stately and sumptuous buildings for strong block-houses for well furnished ships for store of Merchants and abundance of all things it is become now the most famous towne of merchandise in these parts All which the inhabitants ascribe partly to Michael de la-Pole who obtained their priviledges for them after that King Richard the Second had promoted him to the honour of Earle of Suffolke and partly their gainfull trade by Island fish dried and hardened which they tearme Stockfish whereby they gathered a maine masse of riches Hence it came to passe that within a little while they fensed their City with a bricke wall strengthened it with many Towres and Bulwarkes where it is not defended with the river and brought such a deale of coblestones for ballais to their ships that therewith they have paved all the quarters and streets of the towne most beautifully For the chiefe Magistrate it had as I have beene enformed first a Warden or Custos then Bailives afterward a Major and Bailives and in the end they obtained of K. Henry the Sixth that they might have a Major and a Sheriffe and that the very towne should be a County as our lawyers use to say incorporate by it selfe Neither will I thinke it much to note although in Barbarous tearmes out of the booke of Meaux Abbay as touching the Major of this City William De la Pole knight was beforetime a merchant at Ravens-rod skilfull in merchandise and inferiour to no English merchant whatsoever He making his aboade afterwards at Kingston upon Hull was the first Major that ever the said towne had he began also and founded the monastery of Saint Michael hard by the said King-ston which now is an house of the Carthusian or Charter-house monkes And he had for his eldest sonne Sir Michael De la Pole Earle of Suffolke who caused the said Monasterie to bee inhabited by Carthusian Monkes And verily William De la Pole aforesaid lent many thousand pounds of gold unto King Edward whiles hee made his aboade at Antwerp in Brabant wherefore the King in recompence of the said
gold made him Lord chiefe Baron of his Exchequer conferred upon him the whole Seignorie or Lordship of Holdernes together with other lands belonging unto the Crown and that by the Kings Charter yea and ordained that he should be reputed a Baneret Yet if any man make doubt hereof the Recordes I hope may satisfie him fully in which William De la Pole is in plaine tearmes called Dilectus Valectus et Mercator noster that is Our wellbeloved Valect and our Merchant now Valect to tell you once for all was in those daies an honorable title as well in France as in England but afterward applied unto servants and gromes whereupon when the Gentry rejected it by changing the name they began to bee called Gentlemen of the Bedchamber From Hull a Promontorie runneth on forward and shooteth out a farre into the sea which Ptolomee calleth OCELLVM wee Holdernesse and a certaine monke Cavam Deiram as it were the hollow Country of the Deirians in the same signification that Coelosyria is so tearmed as one would say Holow Syria In this Promontory the first towne wee meet with in the winding shore is Headon in times past if wee list to beleeve fame that useth to amplifie the truth and which for my part I will not discredit risen to exceeding great account by the industry of merchants and sea-faring men from which so uncertaine is the condition as well of places as of people it is so much fallen by the vicinity of Hull and the choaking up of the haven which hath empoverished it that it can shew scarce any whit of the ancient state it had Although King Iohn granted unto Baldwin Earle of Aulbemarle and of Holdernesse and to his wife Hawis free Burgage heere so that the Burgers might hold in free Burgage with those customes that Yorke and Nichol that is Lincolne Yet now it beginneth by little and little to revive againe in hope to recover the former dignity There standeth hard by the Pomontorie an ancient towne which Antonine the Emperour called PRAETORIVM but we in our age Patrington like as the Italians have changed the name of a towne sometime called Praetorium into Petrovina That I doe not mistake herein both the distance from DELGOVITIA and the very name yet remaining doth prove which also in some sort implieth that this is the very same that in Ptolomees copies is written PETVARIA corruptly for Praetorium But whether this name were given it either from Praetorium that is the hall of Justice or from some large and stately house such as the Romans tearmed Praetoria it doth not appeare for certaine The inhabitants glorie much yet as touching their Antiquity and the commodiousnesse of the haven in ancient times and they may as well glorie for the pleasantnesse thereof For it hath a most delectable prospect on the one side lieth the maine sea brimme upon it on the other Humber a famous arme of the sea and over against it the fresh and greene skirtes of Lincoln-shire The high way of the Romans from the Picts wall which Antonine the Emperor followed here endeth For Ulpian hath written that such high waies commonly end at the sea at rivers or at Cities Somewhat lower standeth Winsted the habitation of the Hildeards knights of ancient descent and higher into the Country Rosse from whence the honorable family of the Barons Rosse tooke their name like as they were seated there in times past and hard by the sea-side Grimstons-garth where the Grimstons for a long time have lived in good reputation and a little from hence standeth Rise the mansion house in old time of certaine noble men bearing the name of Falconberg And then in the very necke of the promontorie where it draweth in most narrow into a sharpe point and is called Spurnhead is KELNSEY a little village which plainely sheweth that this is the very OCELLVM mentioned by Ptolomee for as from OCELLVM Kelnsey is derived so Ocellum doubtlesse was made of Y-kill which as I have said before signifieth in the British tongue a Promontory or narrow necke of land From Spurn-head the shore withdraweth it selfe backe by little and little and gently bending inward shooteth Northward by Overthorne and Witherensey two little Churches called of the sisters that built them Sisters kirks and not farre from Constable-Burton so called of the Lords thereof who being by marriages linked to right honorable houses flourish at this day in great worship and out of which familie Robert as wee read in the booke of the Abbay of Meaux was one of the Earle of Aulbemarls knights who being aged and full of daies took upon him the Crosse and went with King Richard in his voiage toward the holy land Then by Skipsey which Dru the first Lord of Holdernesse fortified with a Castle When the shore beginneth to spread againe and beare out into the sea it maketh roome for a bay or creeke that Ptolomee calleth EYAIMENON GABRANTO VICORUM which the Latin Interpreters have translated some PORTUOSVM SINVM that is the barborous Creeke others SALVTAREM that is the safe Creeke But neither of them both better expresseth the nature of the Greeke word than the very name of a little village in the nouke thereof which wee call Sureby For that which is safe and sure from danger the Britans and French men both terme Seur as wee Englishmen sure who peradventure did borrow this word from the Britans There is no cause therefore why we should doubt but that this creeke was that very EYAIMENON of the GABRANTOVICI who dwelt there abouts Hard by standeth Bridlington a towne very well knowne by reason of Iohn of Bridlington a poeticall monkish prophet whose ridiculous prophesies in Rhime I have read albeit they were not worth the reading And not farre from hence for a great length toward Driffield was there a ditch cast up and brought on by the Earles of Holdernesse to confine and bound their lands which they called Earles Dyke But whence this little nation here inhabiting were named GABRANTOVICI I dare not search unlesse happily it were of goates which the Britans tearme Gaffran and whereof there is not greater store in al Britain than hereabout Neither ought this derivation of the name to seeme absurd seeing that Aegira in Achaia borroweth the name of goats Nebrodes in Sicily of fallow Deere and Boeotia in Greece of Kine and Oxen. That little Promontory which with his bent made this creeke is commonly called Flamborough head and in the Saxon tongue Fleam 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 by Authors who write that Ida the Saxon who first subdued these Countries arrived here Some think it took the name from a watchtowre which did by night put forth a flame or burning light for to direct sailers into the haven For the Britans retaine yet out of the provinciall language this word Flam and Mariners paint this creeke in their sea-cards with a blazing flame on the
head Yet others are of opinion that this name arrived in this Island with the English out of Angloen in Denmarke the ancient seat of the English nation for there is a towne called Flemsburg and that the Englishmen from hence called it so like as the Gaules as Livie witnesseth tearmed Mediolanum that is Millan in Italiâ— after the name of Mediolanum in Gaule which they had left behinde them For there is a little village in this Promontory named Flamborrough where an other notable house of the Constables had anciently their seat which some doe derive from the Lacies Constables of Chester Beeing in these parts I could learne nothing for all the enquirie that I made as touching the bournes commonly called Vipseys which as Walter of Heminburgh hath recorded flow every other yeere out of blinde springs and runne with a forcible and violent streame toward the sea nere unto this Promontory Yet take here with you that which William Newbrigensis who was borne neare that place writeth of them Those famous waters which commonly are called Vipseys rise out of the earth from many sources not continually but every second yeere and being growne unto a great bourn runne downe by the lower grounds into the sea Which when they are dry it is a good signe for their breaking out and flowing is said to bee an infallible token portending some dearth to ensue From thence the shore is drawne in whereby there runneth forth into the sea a certaine shelfe or slang like unto an out-thrust tongue such as Englishmen in old time termed a File whereupon the little village there Filey tooke name and more within the land you see Flixton where in King Athelstanes time was built an Hospitall for the defence thus word for word it is recorded of way-faring people passing that way from Wolves least they should be devoured Whereby it appeareth for certaine that in those daies Wolves made foule worke in this Tract which now are no where to be seene in England no not in the very marches toward Scotland and yet within Scotland there be numbers of them in most places This little territory or Seigniory of Holdernesse King William the First gave to Drugh Buerer a Fleming upon whom also he had bestowed his Niece in marriage whom when hee had made away by poison and thereupon fled to save himselfe hee had to succeed him Stephen the sonne of Odo Lord of Aulbemarle in Normandy who was descended from the Earles of Champaigne whom King William the First because hee was his Nephew by the halfe sister of the mothers side as they write made Earle of Aulbemarle whose posterity in England retained the Title although Aulbemarle be a place in Normandy His successour was William sirnamed Le Grosse whose onely daughter Avis was marryed to three husbands one after another namely to William Magnavill Earle of Essex to Baldwine De Beton and William Forts or de Fortibus by this last husband onely shee had issue William who also had a sonne named William His onely daughter Avelin being the wedded wife of Edmund Crouchbacke Earle of Lancaster dyed without children And so as wee reade in the booke of Meaux Abbay for default of heires the Earldome of Aulbemarle and honour of Holdernesse were seized into the Kings hands Howbeit in the ages ensuing King Richard the Second created Thomas of Woodstocke his Unkle and afterwards Edward Plantagenet Earle of Rutland the Duke of Yorkes sonne Duke of Aulbemarle in his fathers life time likewise King Henry the Fourth made his owne sonne Thomas Duke of Clarence and Earle of Aulbemarle which Title King Henry the Sixth afterward added unto the stile of Richard Beauchamp Earle of Warwicke for the greater augmentation of his honour EBORACENSIS Comiâ—aâ—us pars Septentrionalis vulgo NORTH RIDING NORTH-RIDING SCarce two miles above Flamborrough-head beginneth the NORTH-RIDING or the North part of this Country which affronting the other parts and beginning at the Sea is stretched out Westward and carrieth a very long Tract with it though not so broad for threescore miles together even as farre as to Westmorland limited on the one side with Derwent and for a while with the River Ure on the other side with Tees running all along it which on the North Coast separateth it from the Bishopricke of Durrham And very fitly may this part bee divided into Blackamore Cliveland Northallverton-shire and Richmond-shire That which lyeth East and bendeth toward the Sea is called Blackamore that is The blacke moorish land For it is mountanous and craggy The Sea coast thereof hath Scarborrough Castle for the greatest ornament a very goodly and famous thing in old time called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is A Burgh upon the Scar or steepe Rocke The description whereof have heere out of William of Newburgh his History A Rocke of a wonderfull height and bignesse which by reason of steepe cragges and cliffes almost on every side is unaccessible beareth into the Sea wherewith it is all compassed about save onely a certaine streight in manner of a gullet which yeeldeth accesse and openeth into the West having in the toppe a very faire greene and large Plaine containing about threescore acres of ground or rather more a little Well also of fresh water springing out of a stony Rocke In the foresaid gullet or passage which a man shall have much adoe to ascend up unto standeth a stately and Princelike Towre and beneath the said passage beginneth the City or Towre spreading two sides South and North but having the sore part Westward and verily it is fensed afront with a wall of the owne but on the East fortified with the rocke of the Castle and both the sides thereof are watered with the Sea This place William Le Grosse Earle of Aulbemarle and Holdernesse viewing well and seeing it to bee a convenient plot for to build a Castle upon helping Nature forward with a very costly worke closed the whole plaine of the Rocke with a Wall and built a Towre in the very streight of the passage which being in processe of time fallen downe King Henry the Second caused to bee built in the same place a great and goodly Castle after hee had now brought under the Nobles of England who during the loose government of King Stephen had consumed the lands of the Crowne but especially amongst others that William abovesaid of Aulbemarle who had in this Tract ruled and reigned like a King and possessed himselfe of this place as his owne Touching the most project boldnesse of Thomas Stafford who to the end hee might overthrow himselfe with great attempts with a few Frenchmen surprised this Castle of a sudden in Queene Maries Raigne and held it for two daies together I neede not to speake ne yet of Sherleis a Gentleman of France who having accompanied him was judicially endited and convict of high treason albeit he was a forrainer because hee had done against
a mercate towne well knowne which river watereth Stokesley a little mercate towne likewise that hath a long time appertained to the Noble family of Eure. Beneath which places Wharton Castle belonging in times past to the Barons Menill and Harlsey to the family of Hotham and afterward to Stragwaies now wrestle with old age and hardly hold up their heads The mouth of Tees aforesaid suspected in times past of sailers is now found to be a sure road and harbour and to give direction for safe accesse and entrance unto it there are erected on both sides thereof within our remembrance high turrets with light Foure miles from this Tees mouth standeth Gisburgh on high now a small towne but whiles it stood in flourishing estate it was right glorious for a very faire and rich Abbay built by Robert de Brus Lord of the place about the yeere of our Salvation 1119 and for the common buriall place of all the gentry and nobility in this tract which also brought forth Walter de Heminford no unlearned Historiographer This verily is a passing good place and may well for pleasantnesse delightsome variety and rare gifts of Nature contend with Puteoli in Italy which in regard of healthy situation it also farre excelleth The aire is mollified and made more mild by the mountaines seated betweene it and what way the sea yeeldeth a cold and winterly disposition the soile fruitfull and plenteous in grasse affordeth delectable floures a great part of the yeere and richly aboundeth with vaines of metall and Alum-earth of sundry colours but especially of ocher and murray likewise of iron out of which they have now begunne to try very good Alum and Coperose Which with learned skill and cunning not many yeeres since Sir Thomas Chalâ—ner Knight a learned searcher into natures workes and unto whose charge our most high and mightie King hath committed his son Prince Henry the lovely joy and delight of Brittaine first discovered by observing that the leaves of trees were of a more weak greene colour here than in other places that the oakes had their rootes spreading broad but very eb within the ground the which had much strength but small store of sappe that the earth standing upon clay and being of divers colours whitish yellowish and blew was never frozen and in a cleere night glittered in the pathes like unto glasse Not farre off Onusbery or Rosebery Topping mounteth up a mighty height and maketh a goodly shew a farre off serving unto sailers for a marke of direction and to the neighbour inhabitants for a prognostication For so often as the head thereof hath his cloudy cap on lightly there followeth raine whereupon they have a Proverbiall Rhime when Rosebery Topping weares a cap Let Cliveland then beware a clap Neere unto the top of it out of an huge rocke there floweth a spring of water medicinable for diseased eies and from hence there is a most goodly and pleasant prospect downe into the vallies below lying a great way about to the hils full of grasse greene meddowes delightsome pastures fruitfull corne fields riverets stored with fish the river Tees mouth full of rodes and harbours the ground plaine and open without danger of inundation and into the sea with ships therein under saile Beneath it standeth Kildale a Castle of the Percies Earles of Northumberland and more Eastward Danby which from Brus also by the Thwengs came unto the Baron Latimers from whose heire descended the Willoughbeies Barons of Brooke But this Danby with other possessions was sold to the Nevills of which family Sir George Nevill was by King Henry the sixth called among the Barons to the Parliaments under the name of Lord Latimer in whose progenie and posterity this dignity hath continued unto our daies There remaineth nothing else heere for me to note but that the Barons Meinill held certaine lands in this shire of the Archbishops of Canterbury and for the same the Coigniers Strangwaies and Darcies descended from them are bound to performe certaine service to the said Archbishops And whereas the King of England by his Prerogative shall have the Wardship these bee the very words of the Praerogative of all their lands who hold of him in chiefe by Knights service of which themselves as tenants shall be seized in their Demesne as of Fae the day whereon they die of whomsoever they held by the like service so that themselves notwithstanding hold of the King any tenement of the ancient demesne of the Crowne unto the full and lawfull age of the heire Yet are excepted these Fees and others of the Archbishop of Canterbury and the Bishop of Durrham betweene Tine and Tees c. so that they may have the Wardship of such lands although elsewhere they held of the King Farther within the country among the mountaines of Blaca amore there offereth it selfe besides wandering beakes and violent swift brookes which challenge the vallies every where as their owne to passe through no memorable thing unlesse it be Pickering a good bigge towne belonging to the Dutchy of Lancaster situate upon an hill and fortified with an old Castle unto which a number of small villages lying there round about doe appertaine whereupon the country adjoyning is commonly called Pickering Lith The Libertie of Pickering and Forest of Pickering the which King Henry the Third gave unto his younger sonne Edmund Earle of Lancaster Wherein neere unto the river Darwent standeth Atton that gave name unto the right noble family of the Attons Knights descended from the Lords Vescy the inheritance of which family was by the daughters parted betweene Edward Saint Iohn the Evers and the Coigniers Now from Edward Saint Iohn a great portion thereof came by a daughter to Henrie Bromflet Which Henrie verily was summoned to the High court of Parliament by these expresse termes elsewhere not to be found in Summons Our Will is that both yee and your heires males of your body lawfully issuing be Barons of Vescy Afterwards that title passed away by a daughter to the Cliffords On the otherside foure miles from Pickering neere unto Dow a swift running riveret lieth Kirkby-Morside hard unto the hilles whereof it had that name a Market towne not of the meanest reckoning and the possession sometime of the Estotevilles Behind these Westward Rhidal lieth low a goodly pleasant and plentifull vale adorned with three and twenty Parish-churches through the mids wherof runneth the river Rhie A place as saith William of Newburrough wast desolate and full of horrour before that Walter Espec had granted it to the Monkes of the Cluniak order and founded there an Abbay In this vale is Elmesly seated which if I deceive not my selfe Bede called Vlmetum where that Robert called de Rosse surnamed Fursan built a Castle nere unto which the river Recall hideth it selfe under the ground More beneath hard by the river side standeth Riton an ancient possession of the ancient familie of the Percihaies commonly
named Percies From thence Rhie carrieth with him the streames of many a brooke into Derwent which watereth in this vale Malton a Market towne well knowne and frequented for corne horses fish and implements of husbandry where are to be seene the foundations of an old Castle belonging as I have heard say in old time to the Vescies Barons in these parts of great estate and honor Their pedigree as appeareth evidently by the Kings records is derived from William Tyson who being Lord of Malton and of Alnewicke in Northumberland was slain in the battaile at Hastings against the Normans Whose onely daughter was given in marriage to Ivo de Vescy a Norman and hee left behind him his only daughter likewise named Beatrice with whō Eustach the son of Fitz Iohn with one eie contracted marriage who in the raigne of Stephen founded the religious houses at Malton and Watton For his second wife daughter to William Constable of Chester was Ladie of Watton William the sonne of Eustach by Beatrice being ripped out of his mothers wombe assumed unto him the name of Vescy and the Armes a Cross-floury Argent in a shield Gueles This William begat of Beatrice daughter to Robert Estotevill of Knaresburg two sonnes Eustach de Vescy who tooke to wife Margaret daughter to William King of the Scots and Sir Warin de Vescy Lord of Knapton As for Eustach father hee was of William who begat John that died without issue and William so renowned for his exploits in Ireland and these changed the Armes of their house into a shield Or with a crosse Sables But William after that his legitimate sonne John died in the warre of Wales granted unto King Edward certaine lands in Ireland that his illegitimate sonne William surnamed of Kildare might inherit his fathers estate And hee ordained Anthony Bec Bishop of Durrham his feofie in trust to the use of his sonne but he was scarce trusty as touching Alnewic Eltham in Kent and other lands which he is reported to have conveied indirectly to his owne use This illegitimate sonne young Vescy was slaine in the Battaile of Sterling in Scotland And at length the title fell backe unto the line of the Attons considering that Margaret the only daughter of Sir Gwarin Vescy was wedded unto Gilbert de Atton But heereof enough if not too much and of it I have spoken before Neere unto this vale there flourished two famous Abbaies Newborrough unto which we are indebted for William of Newborrough a learned and diligent writer of the English Historie now the habitation of the worshipfull family of Bellasise descended out of the Bishopricke of Durrham and Bellelanda commonly Biland both founded and endowed by Robert Mowbray This family of the Mowbraies was for power nobility and wealth comparable to any other and possessed very faire lands with the Castles of Slingesby Threske and others in this Tract The originall of this race if you desire to understand I will compendiously set it downe When Roger de Mowbray Earle of Northumberland and R. de Grunde-beofe for their disloialtie were dissezed of all their possessions King Henry the First bestowed a great part thereof upon Nigell or Niele de Albenie of the same family that the Albeneis Earles of Arundell were descended a man of very high birth in Normandie who had bin Bowbearer to King William Rufus and so enriched him thereby that he held in England 140. Knights fees and in Normandie 120. He commanded also that Roger his sonne should assume the name of Mowbray from whom flowred out the Mowbraies Earles of Nottingham and Dukes of Norfolke To these Mowbraies also belonged in times past Gilling Castle standing hard by but now unto that ancient and worshipfull family which of their faire bush of haire got their name Fairfax For Fax in the old English tongue signifieth haires or the haire of the head whereupon our progenitours called a Comet or blasing starre A Faxed starre like as a place whereof I have spoken before Haly-fax of holy haires Then beneath these Southward lieth Calaterium Nemus commonly called The Forest of Galtres shaded in some places with trees in other some a wet flat full of moist and moorish quavemires very notorious in these daies by reason of a solemne horse running wherein the horse that outrunneth the rest hath for his prise a little golden bell It is almost incredible what a multitude of people conflow hither from all parts to these games and what great wagers are laid on the horses heads for their swift running In this Forest standeth Creac which Egfrid King of Northumberland in the yeer 684 gave with three miles round about unto Saint Cuthbert by whom it came to the Church of Durrham Scarce foure miles hence is situate most pleasantly among little woods and groves Sherry-Hutton a very proper Castle built by Sir Bertrand Bulmer and reedified by Raulph Nevil the first Earle of Westmorland Neere unto which standeth Hinderskell a little Castle built by the Barons of Greystocke which others call Hunderd-skell of a number of fountaines that spring up and rise there Behind the hilles Westward where the country spreadeth it selfe out againe into a more fresh and plaine champion lieth Alverton-shire commonly called Northallerton-shire a little countrie watered with the riveret Wiske and taking the name of Northalverton a towne sometime called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which is nothing else but a long broad street howbeit having in it on S. Bartholomewes day the greatest Faire of Kine and Oxen and of most resort that ever I saw in all my life King William Rufus gave this with the territory adjoining unto the Church of Durrham to the Bishops of which See it is very much beholden For William Comin who by force held the Bishopricke of Durrham built the Castle there and granted it unto his nephew which now is in manner quite decaied and gone The Bishops likewise his successors granted unto it certaine liberties and immunities For in the Booke of Durrham we read that Hugh Pudsey Bishop of Durrham fortified the towne having obtained licence of the King that among those unlawfull castles which by Commandement were then destroyed in many places of England this onely should have the priviledge to stand still which notwithstanding the King commanded afterward to be layd even with the ground Hard by this was that field foughten which they commonly call the Battaile of the Standard in which David King of Scots who with his unexampled cruelty had made this country almost a wildernesse was after so great a slaughter of his people put to flight that then and never before our countrimen thought they were fully revenged For that indeed came to passe in this battaile which Raulfe the Bishop said when before the battaile in an oration he encouraged the English to fight A confused multitude untrained is an impediment to it selfe in prosperous successe to hurt others and in adverse
his owne hopes and so hee raised that deadly Warre betweene the Houses of Yorke and Lancaster distinguished by the white and red Rose wherein himselfe soone after lost his life at Wakefield King Henry the Sixth was foure times taken Prisoner and in the end despoiled both of his Kingdome and life Edward Earle of March sonne to the said Richard obtained the Crowne and being deposed from the same recovered it againe thus inconstant fortune disported herselfe lifting up and throwing downe Princes at her pleasure many Princes of the royall bloud and a number of the Nobility lost their lives those hereditary and rich Provinces in France belonging to the Kings of England were lost the wealth of the Realme wholly wasted and the poore people thereof overwhelmed with all manner of misery Edward now being established in his royall Throne and in the ranke of Kings carrying the name of Edward the Fourth gave unto Richard his second sonne the Title of Duke of Yorke who together with king Edward the Fifth his brother was by their Unkle Richard the Third murdered Then king Henry the Seventh granted the same Title unto his younger sonne who afterwards was crowned king of England by the name of Henry the Eight And even now of late King James invested Charles his second sonne whom before hee had created in Scotland Duke of Albany Marquesse of Ormond Earle of Rosse and Baron of Ardmanoch a childe not full foure yeeres of age Duke of Yorke by cincture of a sword imposition of a Cap and Coronet of gold upon his head and by delivering unto him a verge of gold after he had according to the order with due complements made the day before both him and eleven more of Noble Parentage Knights of the Bath Reckoned there are in this County Parishes 459. under which he very many Chappels for number of Inhabitants equall unto great Parishes RICHMOND-SHIRE THE rest of this Country which lyeth toward the North-West and carryeth a great compasse is called Richmond-shire or Richmount-shire taking the name from a Castle which Alan Earle of little Britaine had built unto whom William the Conquerour gave this Shire which before time belonged to Eadwin an Englishman by these short letters Patents as it is set downe in the booke of Richmond Fees I William sirnamed Bastard King of England doe give and grant unto thee my Nephew Alane Earle of Britaine and to thine heires for ever all and every the Manour houses and lands which late belonged to Earle Eadwin in Yorke-shire with the Knights fees and other liberties and customes as freely and in as honourable wise as the said Eadwin held the same Given at our Leaguer before the City of Yorke This Shire most of it lieth very high with ragged rockes and swelling mountaines whose sloping sides in some places beare good grasse the bottomes and vallies are not altogether unfruitfull The hilles themselves within are stored with lead pit-coale and Coper For in a Charter of king Edward the Fourth there is mention made of a Mine or Delfe of Copper neere unto the very towne of Richmond But covetousnesse which driveth men even as farre as to hell hath not yet pierced into these hilles affrighted perchance with the difficulty of carriage whereas there have beene found in the tops of these mountaines as also in other places stones like unto sea winkles or cockles and other sea fish if they be not the wonders of nature I will with Orosius a Christian Historiographer deeme them to be undoubted tokens of the generall deluge that surrounded the face of the whole earth in Noahs time When the Sea saith he in Noahs daies overflowed all the earth and brought a generall floud so that the whole Globe thereof being therewith surrounded and covered there was one face as of the Firmament so also of the Sea The soundest Writers most evidently teach That all mankinde perished a few persons excepted who by vertue of their faith were reserved alive for offspring and propagation Howbeit even they also have witnessed that some there had beene who although they were ignorant of the times past and knew not the Authour himselfe of times yet gathered conjecturally as much by giving a guesse by those rough stones which wee are wont to finde on hilles remote from the Sea resembling Cocles and Oisters yea and oftentimes eaten in hollow with the waters Where this Country bordereth upon Lancashire amongst the mountaines it is in most places so waste solitary unpleasant and unsightly so mute and still also that the borderers dwelling thereby have called certaine Riverets creeping this way Hell-beckes But especially that about the head of the River Ure which having a Bridge over it of one entire stone falleth downe such a depth that it striketh in a certaine horror to as many as looke downe And in this Tract there be safe harbors for Goates and Deere as well red as fallow which for their huge bignesse with their ragged and branching hornes are most sightly The River Ure which wee have often spoken of before hath his fall heere out of the Westerne Mountaines and first of all cutting through the middest of the Vale called Wentsedale whiles it is yet but small as being neere unto his Spring-head where great flockes of Sheepe doe pasture and which in some places beareth Lead stones plentifully is encreased by a little River comming out of the South called Baint which with a great noise streameth out of the Poole Semer. At the very place where these Rivers meete and where there stand a few small Cotages which of the first Bridge made over Ure they call Baintbrig there lay in old time a Garison of the Romanes whereof the very Reliques are at this day remaining For on the toppe of an hill which of a Fort or Burge they now call Burgh appeare the ground workes of an ancient Hold containing about five acres of ground in compasse and beneath it Eastward many tokens of some old habitation and dwelling places Where amongst many other signes of Roman Antiquity I have seene of late this fragment of an antique Inscription in a very faire letter with Winged Victory supporting the same IMP CAES. L. SEPTIMIO PIO PERTINACI AUGU IMP CAESARI M. AURELIO APIO FELICI AUGUSTO BRACCHIO CAEMENTICIUM VI NER VIORUM SUB CURALA SENECINON AMPLISSIMIO PERIL VISPIUS PRAELEGIO By this we may guesse that the said hold at Burgh was in times past named BRACCHIUM which before time had been made of turfe but now built with stone and the same layed with good morter Also that the sixth Cohort of the Nervians lay there in Garison who may seeme to have had also their place of Summer aboade in that high hill hard by fensed with a banke and trench about it which now they tearme Ethelbury And not long since there was digged up the Statue of Aurelius Commodus the Emperour who as Lampridius writeth was sirnamed by his flattering
clawbackes BRITANNICUS even when the Britans would have elected an Emperour against him And then it may seeme was this Statue of his set up when he prizing himselfe more than a man proceeded to that folly that he gave commandement he should be called The Romane Hercules Iupiters sonne For hee was portraied in the habite of Hercules and his right hand armed with a club under which there lay as I have heard such a mangled Inscription as this broken heere and there with voide places betweene the draught whereof was badly taken out and before I came hither was utterly spoiled CAESARI AUGUSTO MARCI AURELII FILIO SEN IONIS AMPLISSIMI VENTS PIUS This was to be seene in Nappa an house built with turrets and the chiefe seat of the Medcalfs thought to be at this day the greatest family for multitude of the same name in all England for I have heard that Sir Christopher Medcalfe knight and the top of this kinred beeing of late high-Sheriffe of the shire accompanied with three hundred men of the same house all on horsback and in a livery met and received the Justices of Assizes and so brought them to Yorke From hence runneth Vre downe a maine full of Creifishes ever since Sir Christopher Medcalfe in our remembrance brought that kinde of fish hither out of the South part of England and betweene two rockes whereof the place is named Att-scarre it runneth head long downe not far from Bolton a stately Castle the ancient seat of the Barons Scrops and which Richard Lord le Scrope and Chancellour of England under king Richard the Second built with exceeding great coste and now bending his course Eastward commeth to Midelham the honour whereof as wee reade in the Genealogie or Pedegree of the Nevils Alan Earle of Richmond bestowed upon his younger brother Rinebald with all the lands which before their comming belonged to Gilpatrick the Dane His nephew by his sonne Raulph named Robert Fitz-Raulph had all Wentsedale also by gift of Conan Earle of Britaine and of Richmond and at Midleham raised a most strong Castle His sonne Ranulph erected a little Abbay for Chanons at Coverham called now short Corham in Coverdale whose sonne Raulph had a daughter named Mary who being wedded to Robert Lord Nevill with this marriage translated this very faire and large inheritance as her portion into the family of Nevils Which Robert Nevill having had many children by his wife was taken in adultery unknowne and by the husband of the adulteresse being for revenge berest of his genitours shortly after dyed with extremity of paine Then Ure after it hath passed a few miles forward watereth Iervis or Iorvalle Abbay of Cistertians founded first at Fo rs and after translated hither by Stephen Earle of Britaine and Richmond but now wholly ruinated and after that Masham which was the possession of the Scropes of Masham who as they sprung from the stocke of the Scropes of Bolton so they were by marriages ingraffed againe into the same On the other side of this River but more inward standeth Snath the principall house of the Barons Latimer who derived their noble descent from George Nevill younger sonne of Raulph Nevill the first Earle of Westmorland and he received this Title of honour from king Henry the Sixth when as the ancienter house of the Latimers expired in a female and so by a continued succession they have flourished unto these our daies when for default of male issue of the last Baron Latimer that goodly and rich inheritance was divided among his daughters marryed into the families of the Percies Cecils D'anvers and Cornwallis Neither are there any other places in this part of the shire worth the naming that Ure runneth by unlesse it bee Tanfeld the habitation in times past of the Gernegans knights from whom it descended to the Marmions the last of whom left for his heire Amice second wife to John Lord Grey of Rotherfeld by whom he had two sonnes John that assumed the sirname of Marmion and died issuelesse and Robert who left behinde him one onely daughter and sole heire Elizabeth wife to Sir Henry Fitz-Hugh a noble Baron After this Ure entertaineth the River Swale so called as Th. Spot writeth of his swiftnesse selfe into it with a maine and violent streame which Swale runneth downe Eastward out of the West Mountaines also scarce five miles above the head of Ure a River reputed very sacred amongst the ancient English for that in it when the English Saxons first embraced Christianity there were in one day baptized with festivall joy by Paulinus the Archbishop of Yorke above tenne thousand men besides women and little children This Swale passeth downe along an open Vale of good largenesse which of it is called Swal-dale having good plenty of grasse but as great want of wood first by Marrick where there stood an Abbay built by the Askes men in old time of great name also by Mask a place full of lead ore Then runneth it through Richmond the chiefe towne of the Country having but a small circuit of walles but yet by reason of the Suburbs lying out in length at three Gates well peopled and frequented Which Alan the first Earle thereof built reposing small trust in Gilling a place or Manour house of his hard by to withstand the violence of the Danes and English whom the Normans had despoiled of their inheritance and hee adorned it with this name as one would say The rich Mount he fensed it with a wall and a most strong Castle which being set upon a rocke from an high looketh downe to Swale that with a mighty rumbling noise rusheth rather than runneth among the stones For the said house or Manour place of Gilling was more holy in regard of devout religion than sure and strong for any fortification it had ever since that therein Beda calleth it Gethling Oswy King of Northumberland being entertained guest-wise was by his hoste forelaid and murthered for the expiation whereof the said Monastery was built highly accounted of among our ancestours More Northward Ravenswath Castle sheweth it selfe compassed with a good large wall but now fallen which was the seat of the Barons named Fitz-Hugh extracted from the ancient line of the English Nation who were Lords of the place before the Normans Conquest and lived in great name unto King Henry the Seventh his daies enriched with faire possessions by marriage with the heires of the noble houses of Furneaux and Marmion which came at last by the females unto the Fienes Lords Dacres in the South and to the Parrs Three miles beneath Richmond Swale runneth by that ancient City which Ptolomee and Antonine call CATURACTONIUM and CATARRACTON but Bede Catarractan and in another place the Village neere unto Catarracta whereupon I suppose it had the name of Catarracta that is a Fludfall or water-fall considering hard by there
of the whole bloud marryed to Charles of Bloys King Edward the Third affecting the said John Earle of Montfort and to strengthen his owne party in France favoured the Title of the said John Earle of Montfort for that he was a man and neerer in degree and therefore seemed to have better right and to bee preferred before his Niece to whom the Parliament of France had adjudged it and which is more for that he sware fealty to him as King of France for the Dutchy of Britaine In these respects he granted the Earldome of Richmond unto the said Iohn untill he might recover his owne possessions in France which being soone after recovered by aide of the English the said King bestowed it upon Iohn of Gaunt his sonne And he afterward surrendred it againe into the King his fathers hands for other possessions Who forthwith created Iohn Earle of Montfort Duke of Britaine sirnamed The valiant Earle of Richmond unto whom hee had given his daughter to wife that thereby hee might more surely oblige unto him a warlique person and then ill affected to the French But in the fourth yeere of Richard the Second he by authority of the Parliament forfaited his Earldome because he adhered unto the French King against England howbeit hee kept still the bare Title and left it unto his posterity But the possession was granted to Dame Ioane of Britaine his sister and the widdow of Ralph Lord Basset of Draiton After her decease first Ralph Nevill Earle of Westmorland had the Castle and Earldome of Richmond for the tearme of his owne life by the gift of King Henry the Fourth And after him Iohn Duke of Bedford Then king Henry the Sixth conferred the Title of Earle of Richmond upon Edmund of Hadham his halfe brother by the mothers side with this speciall and peculiar prerogative To take his place in Parliament next unto Dukes After him succeeded Henry his sonne who was King of England by the name of Henry the Seventh But during his exile George Duke of Clarence and Richard Duke of Glocester received the Signiory of Richmond but not the Title from their brother king Edward the Fourth Last of all Henry the base sonne of king Henry the Eighth was by his father invested Duke of Richmond who departed this life without issue 1535. As for Sir Thomas Grey who was made Baron of Richmount by king Henry the Sixth was not Lord of this Richmond but of a place in Bedfordshire called Rugemound and Richmount Greies There are contained in this Shire Parishes 104. beside Chappels BISHOPRICK OF DVRHAM THe Bishopricke of Durham or Duresme bordering on the North side upon Yorke-shire is shaped in fashion of a triangle the utmost angle whereof is made up toward the West where the Northren limit and the Spring-head of Tees doe meete One of the sides which lieth Southward is bounded in with the continued course of the river Tees running downe along by it the other that looketh Northward is limited first with a short line from the utmost point to the river Derwent then with Derwent it selfe untill it hath taken unto it Chopwell a little river and afterward with the river Tine The Sea coast fashioneth out the Base of the Triangle which lieth Eastward and the German Ocean with a mighty roaring and forcible violence beareth thereupon On that part where it gathereth narrow to the Westerne angle the fields are naked and barren the woods very thin the hills bare without grasse but not without mynes of iron As for the Vallies they are reasonably grassie and that high hill which I termed the Apennine of England cutteth in twain this angle But on the East part or Base of the Triangle as also on both sides the ground being well manured is very fruitful and the increase yeeldeth good recompence for the husbandmans toile it is also well garnished with meddowes pastures and corn-fields beset everywhere with townes and yeelding plenty of Sea coale which in many places we use for fewell Some will have this coale to be an earthy black Bitumen others to be Gagates and some againe the Lâ—pis Thracius all which that great Philosopher in Minerals George Agricola hath prooved to be one and the same thing Surely this of ours is nothing else but Bitumen or a clammy kind of cley hardned with heat under the earth and so throughly concocted For it yeeldeth the smell of Bitumen and if water bee sprinkled upon it it burneth more vehemently and the cleerer but whether it may bee quenched with oile I have not yet tried And if the Stone called Obsidianus be in our country I would take that to bee it which is found in other places of England and commonly called Canole cole For it is hard bright light and somewhat easie to be cloven piece meale into flakes and being once kindled it burneth very quickly But let us leave these matters to those that search more deeply into Natures closets All this country with other territories also thereto adjoyning the Monasticall writers tearme the Land or Patrimonie of Saint Cuthbert For so they called whatsoever belonged to the Church of Durham whereof S. Cuthbert was the Patron who in the primitive state of the English Church being Bishop of Lindefarn led all his life in such holinesse and so sincerely that he was enrolled among the English Saints Our kings also and Peeres of the Realme because they verily perswaded themselves that he was their Tutelar Saint and Protectour against the Scots went not onely in Pilgrimage with devotion to visite his body which they beleeved to have continued still found and uncorrupt but also gave very large possessions to this Church and endowed the same with many immunities King Edgfride bestowed upon Cuthbert himselfe whiles he lived great revenewes in the very City of Yorke and Creake also whereof I spake and the City Luguballia as wee reade in the History of Durham King Aelfred and Guthrun the Dane whom hee made Lieutenant of Northumberland gave afterwards all the Lands betweene the Rivers Were and Tine unto Cuthbert and to those who ministred in his Church to have and to hold for ever as their rightfull Possession These bee the very words in effect of an ancient Booke whence they might have sufficient maintenance to live upon and not be pinched with poverty over and besides they ordeined his Church to bee a safe Sanctuary for all fugitives that whosoever for any cause fled unto his Corps should have peaceable being for 37. daies and the same liberty never for any occasion to bee infringed or denyed Edward and Athelstan Kings Knute also or Canutus the Dane who came on his bare feete to Cuthberts Tombe not onely confirmed but enlarged also these liberties In like manner King William the Conquerour since whose time it hath alwayes beene deemed a County Palatine yea and some of the Bishops as Counts Palatine have engraven in their seales a Knight or man at armes in compleat harnesse sitting
upon an horse all trapped with one hand brandishing a sword and in the other holding out the Armes of the Bishopricke The Bishops also have had their royalties and princely rights so that the goods of outlawed and attainted persons out of the Kings protection fell into their hands and not into the Kings yea and the Commons of that Province standing upon their priviledges have refused to serve in warre under the King in Scotland For they pleaded the Story of Duresme shall speake for mee That they were Haliwerke folkes and held their lands to defend the Corps of Saint Cuthbert neither ought they to goe out of the precincts of the Bishopricke namely beyond Tine and Teese for King or Bishop But King Edward the First was the first that abridged them of these liberties For when as he interposed himselfe as Arbitratour betweene the Bishop Antony Bec and the Priour who contended most egerly about certaine lands and they would not stand to his award Hee seised as saith mine Authour the liberty of the Bishopricke into his owne hand and there were many corners searched many flawes found and the Liberty in many points much impaired Howbeit the Church afterward recovered her rights and held them inviolate unto the daies of King Edward the Sixth unto whom upon the dissolution of the Bishopricke the States in Parliament granted all the revenewes and liberties thereof But forthwith Queene Mary by the same authority repealed this Act and restored all things safe and sound unto the Church againe which it enjoyeth at this day For the Bishop James Pilkinton of late time entred his action against Queene Elizabeth about the possessions and goods of Charles Nevill Earle of Westmorland and of others that stood attainted for treason in this precinct because they had most wickedly levied warre against their native Country and he the said Bishop had followed the suit to a triall if the authority of Parliament had not interposed and adjudged the same for that time unto the Queene because to her exceeding great charges she had delivered both Bishop and Bishopricke from the outrage of the Rebels But leaving these matters let us proceed forward to the descripton of places The riuer that boundeth the South part of this country is called by Latin writers Teisis and Teesa commonly Tees by Polydore Virgill the Italian whose minde ranne of Athesis in his owne country Italy without any reason Athesis In Ptolomee it seemeth to be called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and yet I thinke that in him it is removed out of his proper place through the negligence of transcribers For considering that he hath placed TUESIS and TINA in the more remote part of Britaine where the Scots now inhabite and seeing that this Region is enclosed within Tees and Tine If I durst as a Criticke correct that ancient Geographer I would recall them home againe hither into their owne places though they have been long displaced and that with the Scots good leave I hope who have no Rivers upon which they can truely father these names TEES springeth out of that stony country called Stanemore and carrying with him away in his chanell along many brookes and beckes on each side and running through rockes out of which at Egleston where there is a marble Quarroy and where Conan Earle of Britaine and Richmond founded a small Abbay first beateth upon Bernard Castle built and so named by Bernard Balliol the great grandfathers father of John Balliol King of the Scots But this John Balliol whom King Edward the First had declared King of Scotland lost the same with other his possessions because he had broken his alleageance which he sware unto Edward At which time the King being highly displeased with Antony Bishop of Durrham tooke this Castle as witnesseth the booke of Duresme with the appertinences thereto from him and conferred the same upon the Earle of Warwicke as Herkes also and Hertnes which hee gave unto Robert Clifford Kewerston also which hee bestowed upon Geffrey of Hertpole which the Bishop had by the forfeiture of Iohn Baliol Robert Bruse and Christopher Seton But a few yeeres after Lewis Beaumount the Bishop a man royally descended but altogether unlettered brought his action for this Castle and the rest of those possessions and obtained his suite by vertue of judgement given in this tenour The Bishop of Durham ought to have the forfeiture of Warres within the Liberties of his Bishopricke as the King hath it without Hard by it is Stretlham seene where dwelt for a long time the worshipfull family of the Bowes Knights who from time to time in the greatest troubles have performed passing good service to Prince and Country and derive their pedigree from W. de Bowes unto whom as I have read Alanus Niger Earle of Britaine and Richmond granted that hee might give for his Armes The Scutcheon of Britaine with three bent Bowes therein Not full five miles from hence standeth somewhat farther from Tees banke Standrop which also is called Stainthorpe that is Stony Village a little Mercate Towne where there was a Collegiat Church founded by the Nevills and was their Buriall-place Neere unto it is Raby whch Cnut or Canute the Danish King gave freely unto the Church of Durham together with the land lying round about it and Stanthorpe to be held for ever Since which time as mine Authour informeth mee The Family of the Nevills or De nova villa held Raby of the Church paying yeerely for it foure pounds and a Stagge These Nevilles deduce their Descent from Waltheof Earle of Northumberland out of whose posterity when Robert the sonne of Maldred Lord of Raby had married the daughter of Geffrey Nevill the Norman whose Grandsire Gilbert Nevill is reported to have beene Admirall to King William the Conquerour their succeeding Progeny tooke unto them the name of Nevilles and grew up into a most numerous honourable and mighty house who erected heere a great and spacious Castle which was the first and principall seate These two places Stainthorpe and Raby are severed one from another onely by a little rill which after some few miles runneth into Tees neere unto Selaby where now is the habitation of the Brakenburies a Family of right good note both in regard of their owne Antiquity as also for their marriages contracted with the heires of Denton and of Wicliff Tees passing on from thence by Sockburne the dwelling house of the ancient and noble Family of the Coigniers out of which were the Barons Coigniers of Hornby whose inheritance much bettered by matching in marriage with the heires of the Lord Darcy of Metnill and of William Nevill Earle of Kent and Lord of Fauconberg is descended from them in the memory of our fathers to the Atherstons and the Darcies holdeth his course neere unto Derlington a Mercate Towne of good resort which Seir an English Saxon the sonne of Ulph
the West twenty degrees and forty eight minutes in Longitude Whiles I looked round about from the top of the said castle hill to see the mouth of Lone that issueth it selfe into the sea a little lower Fornesse the other part of this shire appeared in sight which the sea hath after a sort violently rent apart from the rest For when as the shore did from hence shoote out a maine way into the West the Ocean as it were much displeased and angry hereat obstinately ceased not to flash and mangle it nay which is more hath with his fell flowing at boisterous tides devoured the shore and thereby maketh three wide creâ—kes or bayes namely Kent-sand at which the river Ken powreth it selfe forth Leven-sand and Dudden-sand betweene which two the land beareth out so much that thereupon it tooke the name For with us in our language For-nesse Foreland is all one with the Latine Promontorium anterius that is a Fore-promontory All this part unlesse it be hard by the sea side mounteth up aloft with high topped hils and huge fels standing thicke together which they tearme Forness-fells Among which the Britans lived safe a great while trusting upon these strong naturall fenses although the victorious English Saxons made way through all in the end For in the yeere 228. after there comming in I gather that the Britans had their abode here because Egfride King of Northumberland gave unto Holy Saint Cuthbert the land called Carthmell and all the Britans in it thus we finde written in his life and it is very well knowne that Carthmell is a part of this shire by Kentsand and a little towne in it retaineth yet the same name Wherein William Mareschall the elder Earle of Pembroch built a Priory and endowed it with living If you read in Ptolomee SETANTIORUM 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The Setantians Mere as some Copies have and not Setantiorum 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The Setantians Haven I durst boldly avouch that these Britans here were called SETANTII For among these mountaines the greatest standing water in all England now called Winander-mere in the English Saxon 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 haply of his winding and turning in and out lieth stretched out for the space of ten miles or thereabout with crooked bankes and is all paved as it were with stone in the bottome in some places of wonderfull depth and breeding a peculiar kinde of fish found no where else which the inhabitants there by call A Chare And a little village standing hard by carrieth the name thereof In which Eathred King of Northumberland in the yeer of Christ 792. when he had by force fetched King Elfwolds sonnes out of Yorke flue them that by his owne wickednesse and their blood hee might secure the Kingdome to himselfe and his Betwixt this Mere and the river Dudden the promontory runneth out which wee commonly call Fornesse and hath the Iland Walney as a fore-fence or countremure lying along by it with a small arme of the sea betweene The gullet or entry into which is defended with a fort called the Pile of Fouldrey standing in the midst of the waves upon a rocke erected there by the Abbot of Fornesse in the first yeere of King Edward the third As for the Promontory it selfe there is nothing worth the sight in it unlesse it be the ruines of a monastery of Cistertian Monkes called Fornesse Abbey which Stephen Earle of Bullen afterwards King of England in the yeere of our redemption 1127. built in a place called sometimes Bekensgill or translated rather from Tulket in Andernesse Out of the Monkes whereof and from no place else as they themselves have reported the Bishops of the Isle of Man that lieth just over against were by an ancient custome wont to bee elected as having beene the mother as it were of many Monasteries in the said Man and in Ireland More Eastward standeth Aldingham an ancient hereditament belonging to the family of the Haveringtons or Harringtons unto whom it came from the Flemmings by the Cancefelds and whose inheritance descended by a daughter unto William Bonvill of Somersetshire and at last by him unto the Greies Marquesses of Dorset And somwhat higher is Ulverston in this regard not to bee passed over in silence for that King Edward the third gave a moity thereof unto Sir John Coupland a most brave warriour whom also he advanced to the dignity of a Banaret because in the battaile at Durham he took David the second King of the Scots prisoner But after his decease the same King granted it with other faire lands in this tract and the title also of Earle of Bedford unto Ingelram Lord Coucy of France as who had married his daughter Isabel and whose ancestours in right of Christiana Lindsey had great revenewes in England Touching the noble men which have borne the title of Lancaster there were in the first infancy of the Norman Empire three stiled Lords of the Honour of Lancaster namely Roger of Poictou the sonne of Roger Mont-gomery who was surnamed Pictavensis as William of Malmesbury writeth because hee had married a wife from out of Poictou in France But when he had by his perfidious disloyalty lost this honour William the sonne of King Stephen and Earle of Moriton and Warren had the same given unto him by his Father After whose death King Richard the first bestowed it upon his brother John who was afterward King of England For thus we read in an old History King Richard declared his singular love to his brother Iohn For beside Ireland and the Earledome of Moriton in Normandy he heaped upon him so many dignities in England that he was in maner a Tetrarch there Finally he conferred upon him Cornwall Lancaster Notingham Derby with the country adjoining and many more beside A good while after King Henry the third the sonne of John first advanced Edmund his second sonne called by some Crouth-backe to the title of Earle of Lancaster unto whom hee conveyed and made over the inheritances and honours of Simon Montfort Earle of Leicester Robert Ferrars Earle of Derby and John of Monmouth because they had risen and rebelliously born armes against him and he gave this Honor of Lancaster unto him in these words The Honour County Castle and Town of Lancaster with the Cow-pastures forrests of Wiresdale Lownsdale New castle under Lime the manour forrest and Castle of Pickering the manor of Scaleby the towne of Gomicester and the rents of the towne of Huntendon c. After hee the said Edmund had missed the kingdome of Sicily in which the Pope had invested him in vaine by a ring and not without ridiculous disgrace to the English nation caused in honour of him certaine peeces of gold to bee stamped with this title AIMUNDUS REX SICILIAE having first cunningly suckt a great masse of money from the credulous King in this regard This Edmund
CONGAVATA was hereabout in which the second band of the Lergi served in garison for Congavata in the British tongue signifieth The valley by Gavata which now is called short Caud But the very place where this towne stood I cannot precisely point out Betwixt the meeting of these rivers the ancient City Carlile is passing commodiously and pleasantly seated garded on the North side with the chanell of Eden on the East with Peterill on the West with Caud and beside these naturall fenses it is fortified with strong walls of stone with a castle and a citadell as they tearme it In fashion it lyeth somewhat long running out from West to East on the West side is the Castle of a good large compasse which King Richard the third as appeareth by his Armes repaired In the midst almost of the City riseth on high the Cathedrall Church the upper part whereof being the newer is very artificially and curiously wrought yet the nether part is much more ancient But on the East side it is defended with the Citadel that K. Henry the eighth built strongly with sundry bulwarks The Romans and Britans called this city LUGU-VALLUM and LUGU-BALLIUM or LUGU-BALIA the English Saxons Luell as Bede witnesseth Ptolomee as some think LEUCOPIBIA Ninnius Caer Lualid the ridiculous prophesies of the Britans tearmed it The City of Duball we Carlile and Latine writers by a newer name Carleolum For our Historiographers accord with common consent that Luguballia and Carleolum were the same But in searching out the Etymology thereof good God how hath Leland bestirred him being in the end driven to this point that he thought verily Eden was called Lugus and Ballum came from Vallis that is a vale so that Lugu-ballum soundeth as much as the Vale by Lugus But I if so bee I may also hatch a conjecture would rather suppose but without prejudice that the said termination Vallum and Vallia are derived from that most famous military Vallum or Trench that standeth apparent a little from the City For that Picts Wall which was afterwards set upon the Trench or rampire of Severus appeareth somewhat beyond the River Eden which now hath a woodden bridge over it neere unto a little village called Stanwicke and went over the very river just against the Castle where within the chanell of the river mighty stones the remaines thereof are yet extant Also Lugus or Lucus amongst the ancient Celis or Gaules who spake the same language that once the Britans did signifieth a Tower as we may learn by Pomponius Mela. For that which in Antonine is named LUGO-AUGUSTI hee calleth TURRIM AUGUSTI that is The Tower of Augustus so that Luga-Vallum is as much to say as the Tower or Fort by the wall From this originall if the Frenchmen had derived Lugudunum as it were The tower on an hill and Lucotecia for so in old time they called that city which we doâ— Lutetia that is Paris as it were The faire Tower for so those words signifie in the British tongue peradventure they had aimed neerer unto the marke than in fetching the one from Lutum that is Dirt and that other from Lugdus an imagined King That this Carlile flourished in the time of the Romanes divers tokens of antiquity now and then digged up there and the famous mention of it in those dayes doe sufficiently prove After the furious outrages also of the Picts and Scots were allayed it retained some part still of the ancient dignity and was counted a City For in the yeere of Christ 619. Egfrid King of Northumberland passed a gift unto that holy Saint Cuthbert in this forme I have given unto him also the City called Luguballia and â—5 miles round about it at which time also it was walled strong The Citizens saith Bede brought Cuthbert to see the walls of their City and a fountain or Well in it built in times past according to the wonderfull workmanship of the Romanes who at the very same time as saith the book of Durham ordained there a Covent of Nuns with an Abbesse and Schooles Afterwards being defaced and brought to exceeding ruin by the Danes it lay about 200. yeeres buried under his owne ashes untill it began againe to flourish under the government and favour of King William Rufus who repaired it with new edifices built the Castle and placed a Colony there first of Flemmings whom streightwaies upon better advice he removed into Wales but afterwards of Southerne Englishmen Then was there seen as William of Malmesbury writeth A dining chamber after the Roman fashion built of stone arched with vaults so that no spitefull force of tempests nor furious flame of fire could ever shake or hurt it in the forefront whereof was this Inscription MARII VICTORIAE that is â—o the victory of Marius This Marius some will needs have to be Arviragus the Britan others that Marius who being proclaimed Emperour against Gallienus was named to bee of wonderfull strength that as writers report of him He had in his fingers no veines but all sinewes Yet have I learned that another making mention of this stone saith it was not inscribed MARII VICTORIAE but MARTI VICTORI that is To victorious Mars which perhaps may better content some and seeme to come nearer unto the truth Carlile being now better peopled and of greater resort had as they write for Earle or more truly for Lord thereof Ralph Meschines from whom came the Earles of Chester and at the same time being raised by King Henry the first to an Episcopall dignity had Artalph for the first Bishop Which the Monks of Durham have written was prejudiciall to their Church when Ranulph say they Bishop of Durham was banished and the Church had none to defend her certain Bishops laid Carlile and Tividale to their Dioeceses But how the Scotish under the reign of Stephen won this City and King Henry the second recovered it how also King Henry the third committed the castle of Carlile and the County to Robert Vipont how likewise in the yeere 1292. it was burnt together with the Cathedrall Church and the Suburbs and how Robert Briâ— King of Scots in the yeere 1315. land siege unto it in vaine you may finde in the common Chronicles And yet it seemes it would quit my paines to adjoyne here two inscriptions that I saw here the one in Thomas Aglion by his house neere unto the Citadell but made in the worse age DIIS MANIBU SMARCI TROJANI AUGUSTINANI TUM FA CIENDUM CUR A VIT AFEL AMMILLUSIMA CONJUX KARISS Whereunto is adjoined the image of a man of Armes on horsebacke armed at all peeces with a launce in his hand As for the other it standeth in the garden of Thomas Middleton in a very large and faire letter thus LEG VI VIC P. F. G. P. R. F. Which is as I ghesse Legio Sexta Victrix Pia Felix the rest let some other decipher The onely Earle that
Carlile had was Sir Andrew de Harcla whom King Edward the second created Earle that I may speake out of the very originall instrument of his Creation for his laudable good service performed against Thomas Earle of Lancaster and other his abetters in vanquishing the Kings enemies and disloiall subjects in delivering them up into the Kings hands when they were vanquished giâ—t with a sword and created Earle under the honour and name of the Earle of Carlile Who notwithstanding proved a wretched Traitour himselfe unthankfull and disloyally false both to his Prince and country and being afterwards apprehended was with shame and reproach paied duly for the desert of his perfidious ingratitude degraded in this maner first by cutting off his spurres with an hatchet afterwards disgirded of his military Belt then dispoiled of his shooes and gantlets last of all and was drawne hanged beheaded and quartered As for the position of Carlile the Meridian is distant from the utmost line of the West 21. degrees and 31. minutes and elevation of the North pole 54. degrees and 55. minutes and so with these encomiasticall verses of M. I. Ionston Ibid Carlile adue CARLEOLUM Romanis quondam statio tutissima signis Ultimaque Ausonidum meta labosque Ducum Especula laiè vicinos prospicit agros Hic ciet pugnas arcet inde metus Gens acri ingenio studiis asperrima belli Doctaque bellaci fig ere tela manu Scotorum Reges quondam tenuere beati Nunc iterum priscis additur imperiis Quid Romane putas extrema hîc limina mundi Mundum retrò alium surgere nonne vides Sit vidisse satis docuit nam Scotica virtus Immensis animis hîc posuisse modum CARLILE Unto the Romane legions sometimes the surest Station The farthest bound and Captaines toile of that victorious nation From prospect high farre all abroad it lookes to neighbour fields Hence fight and skirmish it maintaines and thence all danger shields People quicke witted fierce in field in martiall feats well seene Expert likewise right skilfully to fight with weapons keene Whilom the Kings of Scots it held whiles their state stood upright And once againe to ancient crowne it now reverts by right What Romane Cesar thinkest thou the world hath here an end And seest thou not another world behind doth yet extend Well maist thou see this and no more for Scotish valour taught Such haughty mindes to gage themselves and here to make default If you now crosse over the river Eden you may see hard by the banke Rowcliffe a little castle erected not long since by the Lords de Dacres for the defence of their Tenants And above it the two rivers Eske and Leven running jointly together enter at one out-gate into the Solway Frith As for Eske he rumbleth down out of Scotland and for certaine miles together confesseth himselfe to bee within the English dominion and entertaineth the river Kirsop where the English and Scottish parted asunder of late not by waters but by mutuall feare one of another having made passing good proofe on both sides of their great valour and prowesse Neere this river Kirsop where is now seene by Nether-By a little village with a few cottages in it where are such strange and great ruines of an ancient City and the name of Eske running before it doth sound so neare that wee may imagine AESICA stood there wherein the Tribune of the first band of the Astures kept watch and ward in old time against the Northren enemies But now dwelleth here the chiefe of the Grayhams family very famous among the Borderers for their martiall disposition and in a wall of his house this Romane inscription is set up in memoriall of Hadrian the Emperour by the Legion surnamed Augusta Secunda IMP. CAES. TRA. HADRIANO AUG LEG II. AUG F. But where the River Lidd and Eske conjoine their streames there was sometimes as I have heard Liddel castle and the Barony of the Estotevils who held lands in Cornage which Earle Ranulph as I read in an old Inquisition gave unto Turgill Brundas But from Estotevill it came hereditarily unto the Wakes and by them unto the Earles of Kent of the blood roiall And John Earle of Kent granted it unto King Edward the third and King Richard the second unto John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster Beyond this river Eske the land for certaine miles together is accounted English ground wherein Solom Mosse became very famous by reason especially of so many of the Scottish Nobility taken there prisoners in the yeere 1543. What time as the Scottish resolute to set upon Sir Thomas Wharton Lord warden of the English marches so soone as they understood that their King had committed the command of the army to Oliver Sincler whom they disdained they conceived such indignation thereat that with their owne shame and losse breaking their arraies in tumultuous manner they made a generall confusion of all which the English beholding from the higher ground forthwith charged violently upon them and put them to flight many they took prisoners who flinging away their weapons yeelded themselves after some few souldiers on both sides slaine into the hands of the English and of the borderers Presently whereupon James the fifth King of Scots was so disjected that weary of his life he died for very sorrow The land thereabout is called Batable ground as one would say Litigious because the English and the Scottish have litigiously contended about it For the inhabitants on both sides as borderers in all other parts are a military kind of men nimble wily alwaies in readines for any service yea and by reason of often skirmishes passing well experienced Leven the other river whereof I spake springing in the limit just of both kingdomes runneth by no memorable place unlesse it be Beucastle as they commonly call it a Castle of the Kings which standing in a wild and solitary country hath beene defended onely by a ward of souldiers But this in publicke records is written Bueth-castle so that the name may seeme to have come from that Bueth who about King Henry the first his dayes after a sort ruled all in this tract Certaine it is that in the reigne of Edward the third it was the patrimony of Sir John of Strivelin a Baron who married the daughter and one of the heires of Adam of Swinborne In the Church now much decaied there is layed for a grave-stone this old inscription translated thither from some other place LEG II. AUG FECIT In the Church-yard there is erected a Crosse about 20. foot high all of one entire foure square stone very artificially cut and engraven but the letters are so worn and gone that they cannot be read But whereas the Crosse is chequy in that manner as the shield of Armes belonging to the family of Vaulx sometime Lords in this tract we may well thinke that it was erected by them More into the South and farther within
and Westward with one and an halfe the name of the place is now Whiteley Castle and for to testifie the antiquity thereof there remaineth this imperfect inscription with letters inserted one in another after a short and compendious manner of writing whereby wee learne that the third Cohort of the Nervians erected there a Temple unto the Emperour Antonine sonne of Severus IMP. CAES. Lucii Septimi Severi AraBICI ADIABENICI PARTHICI MAX. FIL. DIVI ANTONINI Pii Germanici SARMA NEP. DIVIANTONINI PII PRON. DIVI HADRIANI ABN DIVI TRAIANI PARTH ET DIVI NERVAE ADNEPOTI M. AURELIO ANTONINO PIO FEL AUG GERMANICO PONT MAX. TR. POT X IMP. COS. IIII. P. p. PRO PIETATE AEDE VOTO COMMUNI CURANTE LEGATO AUG PR COH III. NERVIO RVM G. R.POS Whereas therefore the third Cohort of the Nervii served in this place which Cohort the booke of Notices in a latter time placeth at ALIONE or as Antonine nameth it ALONE and the little river running underneath is named Alne if I should thinke this were ALONE it might seeme rather probable than true considering the injury of devouring time and the fury of enemies have long agoe outworne these matters out of all remembrance Albeit when the State of the Romane Empire decaied most in Britain this country had been most grievously harried and spoiled by the Scots and Picts yet it preserved and kept long the ancient and naturall inhabitants the Britans and late it was ere it became subject to the English Saxons But when againe the English Saxons state sore shaken by Danish warres ran to ruine it had peculiar Governors called Kings of Cumberland unto the yeere of our Lord 946. at what time as the Floure-gatherer of Westminster saith King Edmund by the helpe of Leoline Prince of South-wales wasted and spoiled all Cumberland and having put out the eyes of both the sonnes of Dunmail King of the same Province hee granted that kingdome unto Malcolme King of Scots to be holden of him that he might defend the North parts of England by land and sea from the inrodes and invasions of the common enemies Whereupon the eldest sons of the Kings of Scotland were for a while under the English Saxons and Danes both called the Prefects or Deputy Rulers of Cumberland But when England had yeelded it selfe into the hands of the Normans this part also became subject unto them and fell unto the lot of Ralph de Meschines whose eldest sonne Ranulph was Lord of Cumberland and partly in his mothers right and partly by his Princes favour together Earle also of Chester But King Stephen to purchase favour with the Scots restored it unto them againe that they should hold it of him and the Kings of England Howbeit K. Henry the second who succeeded after him perceiving that this over great liberality of Stephen was prejudiciall both to himself and his realme demanded againe of the Scot Northumberland Cumberland and Westmorland And the K. of Scots as Newbrigensis writeth wisely considering that the King of England had in those parts both the better right and also greater power although he might have pretended the oath which he was said to have made unto his grandfather David what time hee was knighted by him yet restored he the foresaid marches according to his demand fully and wholly and received of him againe the Earledome of Huntingdon which by ancient right appertained to him As for Earles of Cumberland there were none before the time of King Henry the eighth who created Henry Lord Clifford who derived his pedigree from the Lords Vipont the first Earle of Cumberland who of Margaret the daughter of Henry Percy Earle of Northumberland begat Henry the second Earle hee by his first wife daughter to Charles Brandon Duke of Suffolk had issue Margaret Countesse of Derby and by a second wife the daughter of Lord Dacre of Gillesland two sonnes George and Francis George the third Earle renowned for sea-service armed with an able body to endure travaile and a valorous minde to undertake dangers died in the yeere 1605. leaving one onely daughter the Lady Anne now Countesse of Dorset But his brother Sir Francis Clifford succeeded in the Earledome a man whose ardent and honorable affection to vertue is answerable in all points to his honourable parentage As for the Wardens of the West-marches against Scotland in this County which were Noblemen of especiall trust I need to say nothing when as by the union of both kingdomes under one head that office is now determined This shire reckoneth beside chappels 58. Parish Churches VALLUM SIVE MURUS PICTICUS That is THE PICTS VVALL THrough the high part of Cumberland shooteth that most famous Wall in no case to be passed over in silence the limit of the Roman Province the Barbarian Rampier the Forefence and Enclosure for so the ancient writers termed it being called in Dion 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is a crosse Wall in Herodian 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is a Trench or Fosse cast up by Antonine Cassiodore and others VALLUM that is the Rampier by Bede MURUS that is the Wall by the Britans Gual-Sever Gal-Sever Bal Val and Mur-Sever by the Scottish Scottishwaith by the English and those that dwell thereabout the Picts Wall or the Pehits Wall the Keepe Wall and simply by way of excellencie The Wall When the ambitious and valiant Romans finding by the guidance of God and assistance of vertue their successe in all their affaires above their wishes had enlarged their Empire every way so as that the very unwealdinesse thereof began now to be of it selfe fearefully suspected their Emperours thought it their best and safest policie to limit and containe the same within certaine bounds for in wisedome they saw That in all greatnesse there ought to be a meane like as the heaven in selfe reacheth not beyond the limited compasse and the seas are tossed to and fro within their owne precincts Now those limits or bounds according to the natures of the places were either naturall as the sea greater rivers mountaines wasts and desart grounds or artificiall as frontier-fenses namely trenches or dikes castles keeps or fortresses wards mounds and baricadoes by trees cut downe and plashed bankes rampiers and walls along which were planted garrisons of souldiers against the barbarous nations confining Whence it is that we read thus in the Novellae of Theodosius the Emperour Whatsoever lieth included within the power and regiment of the Romans is by the appointment and dispose of our Ancestors defended from the incursions of Barbarians with the rampier of a Limit Along these limits or borders souldiers lay garrisoned in time of peace within frontier-castles and cities but when there was any feare of waste and spoile from bordering nations some of them had their field-stations within the Barbarian ground for defence of the lands others made out-rodes into the enemies marches to discover how the enemies stirred yea and
and recovered this tract or Province which before had beene lost But these ancient names were quite worne out of use in the English Saxon war and all the Countries lying North on the other side of the Arme of the sea called Humber began by a Saxon name to bee called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The Kingdome of Northumberland which name notwithstanding being now cleane gone in the rest of the Shires remaineth still as it were surviving in Northumberland onely Which when that state or kingdome stood was knowne to bee a part of the Kingdome of Bernicia which had peculiar petty Kings and reached from the River TEES to Edenborough Frith NORTH-HUMBER-LAND north-umber-NOrth-umber-land which the English Saxons called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 lieth after a sort enclosed in fashion of a Triangle but not with equall sides The South side is shut in with Derwent running into Tine and with Tine it selfe where it butteth upon the Bishoprick of Durham The East side the German sea lieth and beateth upon it But the West side which reacheth out from South-west to North-east is first parted from Cumber-land afterward with Cheviot and hills linked one to another and lastly with the river Twede it affronteth Scotland and so was the limit of both kingdomes over which were set in this countie two Governours the one called L. Warden of the middle Marches the other of the East marches The ground it selfe for the most part rough and hard to be manured seemeth to have hardened the inhabitants whom the Scots their neighbours also made more fierce and hardie while sometimes they keep them exercised in warres and other whiles in time of peace intermingle their manners among them so that by these meanes they are a most warlike nation and excellent good light-horsemen And whereas they addicted themselves as it were wholly to Mars and Armes there is not a man amongst them of the better sort that hath not his little tower or pile and so it was divided into a number of Baronies the Lords whereof in times past before King Edward the first his dayes went commonly under the name Barons although some of them were of no great living But a wise and politicke device this was of our Ancestours to cherish and maintaine martiall prowesse among them in the marches of the kingdome if it were nothing else but with an honourable bare title Howbeit this title came to nothing among them what time as under King Edward the first those onely began to enjoy the name and honour of Barons whom the Kings summoned unto the high Court of Parliament by speciall summons Toward the sea and Tine by diligence and good husbandrie it becommeth very fruitfull but elsewhere it is more barraine rough and as it were unmanurable And in many places those stones Lithanthraces which we call Sea-coales are digged up in great plentie to the great gaine of the inhabitants and commoditie of others The hithermore part bending toward the South-west and called Hexam-shire acknowledged a long time the Archbishop of Yorke for the Lord thereof and challenged unto it selfe by what right I know not the priviledge of a Countie Palatine But after it became of late annexed unto the crowne land upon an exchange made with Robert the Archbishop by authority of Parliament it was laied unto the countie of Northumberland that it should be subject to the same jurisdiction and in all causes have recourse unto the high Sheriffe thereof South Tine a river so called if wee may beleeve our Britans for that by reason of his narrow bankes hee is straight pent in for so signifieth Tin as they say in the British tongue having his spring head in Cumberland neere unto Alsten-more where there was an ancient copper mine holding on his course by Lambley sometime a Nunnerie built by the Lucies and now with floods for the most part undermined and fallen downe also by Fetherston-Haugh the seat of the ancient and well descended family of Fetherston when hee is come as farre as Bellister Castle turning Eastward runneth directly forward with the WALL which is in no place three miles distant from it toward the North. For the Wall having left Cumberland behind it and crossed over the Irthing passed likewise with an arch over the swift riveret Poltrosse where I saw within the wall high mounts of earth cast up as it were to over look and discover the country Neer this standeth Thirl-wale Castle which is not great but strongly built yet it gave both habitation and surname to the ancient and noble family which was first called Wade where the Picts and Scottish made their passage into the Province between Irthing and Tine and that verily upon good forecast in that place where they had free entrance by reason of no river in their way into the inmore parts of England But you shall better understand this and the name of the place out of John Fordon the Scottish Historian whose words it will not bee amisse as I thinke to set downe here because the booke is not everie where to bee had The Scots saith hee when by conquest they had gotten the possession of those countries which are on this side the wall toward Scotland began to inhabite them and having of a suddaine raised a sort of the Country people with their mattockes pickaxes rakes three tined forkes and spades make wide gappes and a number of holes in it by which breaches they might passe in out readily at their pleasure Of those holes therefore this mound of the wall afterward took the name Thirlwall which it hath at this day in this place for in the English tongue that very place is called Thirlwall which is as much as a wall pierced through Then saw we Blenkensop which gave name unto a generous family as also their habitation in a right pleasant country Southward which was part of the Baronie of Sir Nicholas of Bolteby a Baron of renowne in the time of King Edward the first When you are past Thirlwall the said wall openeth it selfe unto the raging river Tippall where in the descent of an hill a little within the wall is to bee seene the ground worke of a Castle of the Romans in forme foure square everie side whereof taketh an hundred and fortie paces The verie foundations likewise of houses and trackes of streets still appeare most evidently to the beholders The Ranke-riders or taking men of the borders doe report that a great port-way paved with flint and bigge stone led from hence through wastes unto Maiden castle in Stanemore Certes it passed directly to Kirkby Thor whereof I spake A poore old woman that dwelt in a little poore cottage hard by shewed unto us an ancient little altar-stone in testimonie of some vow with this inscription unto VITIRINEUS a tutelar God as it seemed of the place DEO VITI RINE LIMEO ROV P. L. M. This place is now named Caer Vorran what
to the Barons Dacre of Gillesland Nothing I have of any antiquity to say of this towne but that in the yeere of Christ 1215. it was set on fire by the inhabitants themselves in spitefull malice to King John From hence the river Wents-beck passeth by Bothall Castle and the Barony somtimes of Richard Berthram from whose posterity it was devolved unto the Barons of Ogle Upon the bank whereof I have thought this great while whether truly or upon a bare supposall I know not that in old time GLANOVENTA stood which was fortified by the Romans with a garrison of the first Cohort of the Morini for defence of the marches Which the very situation doth as it were perswade and the rivers name together with the signification of the same induceth me to thinke For it is seated within the raunge of the rampire or wall even where the booke of Notices placeth it the rivers name is Wants-beck and GLANOVENTA in the British tongue signifieth the shore or bank of Venta Whence also Glanon a city in France upon the sea-shore wherof Pomponius Mela hath made mention may seeme to have drawn that appellation Not farre hence to let passe little piles and towres of lesse account is to be seene neere unto the shore Withrington or Woderington in the English Saxon tongue of old time called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 an ancient Castle which gave the name unto the Withringtons Gentlemen of good birth and Knights whose valour in the warre hath beene from time to time remarkable Then the river Coquet falleth into the sea which springing among the rough and stony mountaines of Cheviot not farre from his head hath Billesdun upon it from whence sprang the ancient family of the Selbies and somewhat lower Southward Harbottle in the English Saxons tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The station of the Army whence the family of the Harbottles descended that in the ages aforegoing flourished A Castle it had in times past but in the yeere of our salvation 1314. the Scots razed it Close unto this standeth Halyston as one would say Holy stone where the report goeth that Paulinus in the primitive Church of the English nation baptized many thousands And at the verie mouth of Coquet Warkworth a proper faire Castle of the Percies standeth and defendeth the shore where there is a chappell wonderfully built out of a rocke hewen hollow and wrought without beames rafters or anie peeces of timber This Castle King Edward the third gave unto Henrie Percie together with the Mannour of Rochburie Afore time it had beene the Baronie of Roger Fitz-Richard by the gift of Henrie the second King of England who gave also unto his sonne Clavering in Essex whereof at the commandement of King Edward the first they assumed unto them the surname of Clavering leaving the ancient maner of taking their names from the forename or Christian name of the father for before that time they were surnamed according to the forename of the father as Robert Fitz Roger Roger Fitz Iohn c. Part of this inheritance the Nevils entred upon by Fine and Covenant who afterward were Earles of Westmorland and part of it a daughter named Eve inherited who was wedded to Sir Th. Ufford from whose posteritie it came hereditarily unto the Fienes Barons of Dacres But from the younger sonnes branched the Barons of Evers the Evers of Axholme and the Claverings of Kalaly in this Countie and others Hard unto this also lieth Morwick which may likewise boast of the Lords it had whose issue male had an end about the yeere of our Lord 1258. and so the inheritance passed over by the daughters unto the Lumleies Seimors Bulmers and Roscells The shore after this openeth it selfe to give passage unto the river ALAUNUS which being not yet bereft of that name whereby it was knowne unto Ptolomee is called short Alne Upon the bank whereof besides Twifford that is A double fourd where was holden a solemne Synod under King Egfrid and Eslington the habitation of the Collingwoods men renowned for their warlike exploits there sheweth also it selfe Alan-wic in the English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 now commonly called Anwick a towne ennobled by the victorie of Englishmen wherein our ancestors shewed such valour and prowesse that they tooke William King of Scots and presented him prisoner unto King Henrie the second and fortified besides with a goodly castle which when Malcome the third King of the Scots had by long siege enforced to such extremitie that it was at the point now to bee yeelded up hee was slaine by a souldier that making semblance to deliver unto him the keyes of the Castle hanging at the head of a speare ranne him into the bodie with it And withall his sonne Edward whiles to revenge his fathers death he charged unadvisedly upon the enemie was so wounded that hee died thereof shortly after This was a Baronie sometimes belonging to the Vescies For King Henrie the second gave it unto Eustach Fitz-Iohn father to William Vesci to be held by the service of twelve knights Sir John Vescy of this race returning out of the sacred warre in the holy-Holy-land was the first that brought with him into England the Friers Carmelites and built for them a Covent here in Holme a desart place not unlike to Mount Carmel in Syria William the last of the Vescies made Antonine Bec Bishop of Durham his feofie upon trust that he should deliver this Castle with all the lands lying thereto unto his base sonne the onely childe that he left behind him but the Bishop falsly conveied away from him the inheritance and for readie money sold it unto William Lord Percie since which time it hath evermore belonged to the Percies From hence the shore making divers angles and points passeth by Dunstaburge a Castle belonging to the Duchie of Lancaster which some have untruely supposed to be Bebhan for Bebhane standeth higher and in stead of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 is now called Bamborrow Our Bede where hee reports that this Castle was besieged and burnt by Penda King of the Mercians writeth that Queene Bebba gave it this name but the Floure-gatherer recordeth that Ida the first King of Northumberland built it which hee sensed first with great stakes or piles of timber and afterward with a wall But take here with you the description thereof out of Roger Hoveden Bebba saith hee is a most strong Citie not verie great but containing the space of two or three fields having into it one hollow entrance and the same raised on high with staires after a wonderfull manner and on the pitch of an hill a very faire Church and Westward on the top thereof there is a well set out with marvailous workmanship sweet to drink of and most pure to see to But in our age it is counted a castle rather than a city yet so
which Scots at a low water when the tide was past used to passe over the river and fall to boot-haling But they would in no wise take Aeneas with them although hee intreated them very instantly no nor any woman albeit amongst them there were many both young maids and wives passing faire For they are perswaded verily that the enemies will doe them no hurt as who reckon whoredome no hurt nor evill at all So Aeneas remaines there alone with two servants and his Guide in company of an hundred women who sitting round in a ring with a good fire in the mids before them fell to hitchell and dresse hemp sate up all night without sleep and had a great deale of talk with his Interpreter When the night was far spent what with barking of dogs and gaggling of geese a mighty noise and outcry was made then all the women slipped forth divers waies his Guide also made shift to be gone and all was of an hurry as if the enemies had beene come But Aeneas thought it his best course to expect the event within his bed-chamber and that was a stable for feare lest if he had runne forth of dores knowing not the way he should become a prey and booty to him that should first meet him But see streightwaies the women returned with the Interpreter bring word all was well and that they were friends and not enemies were come thither There have been in this countrey certaine petty nations called Scovenburgenses and Fisburgingi but to point out precisely the very place of their abode in so great obscurity passeth my skill Neither can I define whether they were Danes or English But Florentius of Worcester published by the right honourable Lord William Howard writeth That when there was an assembly or Parliament holden at Oxenford Sigeferth and Morcar the worthier mightier ministers of the Scovenburgenses were secretly made away by Edrike Streona Also that Prince Edmund against his fathers will married Alfrith the wife of Sigefrith and having made a journey to the Fisburgings invaded Sigeferth his land and brought his people in subjection to him But let others inquire farther into these matters This region of North-humberland being brought under the English Saxons dominion by Osca Hengists brother and by his sonne Jebusa had first officiall governors under the fealty of the Kings of Kent After that when the kingdome of the Bernicii whom the Britans call Guir a Brinaich as it were Mountainers was erected that which reached from Tees to the Scottish Frith was the best part thereof and subject to the Kings of North-humberland who having finished their period whatsoever lay beyond Twede became Scottish and was counted Scotland Then Egbert King of the West-Saxons laied it to his owne kingdome when it was yeelded up to him Afterwards King Aelfred permitted the Danes to possesse it whom Athelstane some few yeeres after dispossessed and drave out yet after this the people set up Eilrick the Dane for their king whom King Ealdred forthwith displaced and expelled From which time forward this countrey had no more Kings over it but such as governed it were tearmed Earles Amongst whom these are reckoned up in order successively in our Histories Osulfe Oslake Edulph Walde of the elder Uchtred Adulph Alred Siward Tostie Edwin Morcar Osculph and that right valiant Siward who as he lived in armes so would he dye also armed Then his Earldome and these parts were given unto Tostie the brother of Earle Harold but the Earldomes of Northampton and Huntingdon with other lands of his were assigned to the noble Earle Walde of his sonne and heire These words of Ingulphus have I put downe because some deny that hee was Earle of Huntingdon And now will I adde moreover to the rest that which I have read in an old manuscript memoriall of this matter in the Librarie of Iohn Stow a right honest Citizen and diligent Antiquarie of the City of London Copso being made Earle of Northumberland by the gift of King William Conquerour expelled Osculph who notwithstanding within a few daies after slew him Then Osculph being runne through with a Javelin by a thiefe ended his life After this Gospatricke purchased the Earldome of the Conquerour who not long after deposed him from that honour and then succeeded after him Walde of Siwards sonne His fortune was to lose his head and in his roome was placed Walcher Bishop of Durham who like as Robert Comin his successour was slaine in a tumultuous commotion of the common people Afterwards Robert Mowbray attained to the same honour which hee soone lost through his owne perfidious treacherie when he devised to deprive King William Rufus of his royall estate and to advance Stephen Earle of Albemarle a sonne to the Conquerors sister thereunto Then K. Stephen made Henrie the sonne of David King of Scotland as wee read in the Poly Chronicon of Durham Earle of Northumberland whose sonne also William that afterwards was King of Scots writ himselfe William de Warrenna Earle of Northumberland for his mother was descended out of the familie of the Earles of Warren as appeareth out of the booke of Brinkburne Abbey After some few yeeres King Richard the first passed away this Earldome for a summe of money unto Hugh Pudsey Bishop of Durham for tearm of his life scoffing that he had made a young Earle of an old Bishop But when the said King was imprisoned by the Emperour in his returne out of the holy-Holy-land and Hugh for his deliverie had contributed only 2000. pounds of silver which the King took not well at his hands because he was deemed to have performed but a little whom hee understood to have raised and gotten together a huge masse of money under pretence of his ransome and release he devested and deprived him of his Earldome After which time the title of the Barledome of Northumberland lay discontinued about an hundred and fourescore yeeres But at this day the family of the Percies enjoyeth the same which family being descended from the Earles of Brabant inherited together with the surname of Percie the possessions also of Percie ever since that Joscelin of Lovaine younger sonne of Godfrey Duke of Brabant the true issue of the Emperour Charles the Great by Gerberga the daughter of Charles a younger brother to Lothar the last King of France of the line of Charles tooke to wife Agnes the daughter and sole heire of William Percie of which William the great grandfather William Percie comming into England with King William the Conquerour was rewarded by him for his service with lands in Tatcaster Linton Normanby and other places Between this Agnes and Joscelin it was covenanted that hee should assume the name of Percies and retaine still unto him the ancient Armes of Brabant viz. A Lion azure which the Brabanters afterwards changed in a shield Or. The first Earle of Northhumberland out of this family was Henrie Percie begotten of Marie daughter
to Henrie Earle of Lancaster who being descended of ancient bloud and renowned for his martiall prowesse was rewarded also by King Edward the third with faire possessions in Scotland created Earle of North-humberland by King Richard the second on the day of his Coronation and much enriched by his second wife Dame Maud Lucie although by her hee had no issue upon a fine levied unto her that hee should beare quarterly the Armes of the Lucies with his owne and lived in great honour confidence and favour with King Richard the second Yet full badly hee requited him againe for all his singular good demerits For in his adversitie hee forsooke him and made way for Henrie the fourth to the kingdome who made him Constable of England and bestowed upon him the Isle of Man against whom within a while hee feeling the corrosive and secret pricke of conscience for that King Richard by his meanes was unjustly deposed and besides taking at the heart indignantly that Edmund Mortimer Earle of March the true and undoubted heire of the Kingdome and his neere ally was neglected in prison hee conceived inward enmity grievously complaining and charging him with perjury that whereas hee had solemnly sworne to him and others that hee would not challenge the Crowne but onely his owne inheritance and that King Richard should be governed during his life by the good advice of the Peeres of the realme he to the contrary had by imprisonment and terror of death enforced him to resigne his Crown and usurped the same by the concurrence of his faction horribly murthering the said K. and defrauding Edmund Mortimer Earle of March of his lawfull right to the Crown whom he had suffered to languish long in prison under Owen Glendour reputing those traitours who with their owne money had procured his enlargement After the publication of these complaints he confident in the promises of his confederates who yet failed him sent his brother Thomas Earle of Worcester and his courageous sonne Henry surnamed Hot-Spurre with a power of men against the King who both lost their lives at the battaile of Shrewesbury Whereupon he was proclaimed traitour and attainted but shortly after by a kind of connivency received againe into the Kings favour unto whom he was a terrour yea and restored to all his lands and goods save onely the Isle of Man which the King resumed into his owne hands Howbeit within a while after being now become popular and over forward to entertaine new designes and having procured the Scots to bandy and joyne with him in armes himselfe in person entred with banner displayed into the field against the King as an Usurper and on a sudden at Barrhammore in a tumultuary skirmish in the yeere 1408. was discomfited and slaine by Thomas Rokesby the high Sheriffe of Yorke-shire Eleven yeeres after Henry this mans nephew by his sonne Henry Hot-Spur whose mother was Elizabeth daughter to Edmund Mortimer the elder Earle of March by Philippa the daughter of Leonel Duke of Clarence was restored in bloud and inheritance by authority of Parliament in the time of King Henry the fifth which Henry Percie whiles he stoutly maintained King Henry the sixth his part against the house of Yorke was slaine at the battell of Saint Albans like as his sonne Henry the third Earle of Northumberland who married Aelenor the daughter of Richard Lord Poinings Brian and Fitz-Pain in the same quarrell lost his life in the battaile at Towton in the yeere 1461. The house of Lancaster being now kept under and downe the wind and the Percies with it troden under foot King Edward the fourth made Iohn Nevill Lord Montacute Earle of Northumberland but he after a while surrendred this title into the Kings hands and was created by him Marquesse Montacute After this Henry Percy the sonne of Henry Percy aforesaid recovering the favour of King Edward the fourth obtained restitution in bloud and hereditaments who in the reigne of Henry the seventh was slaine by the countrey people that about a certaine levie of money exacted by an Act of Parliament rose up against the Collectours and Assessours thereof After him succeeded Henry Percy the fifth Earle whose sonne Henry by a daughter and Coheire of Sir Robert Spenser and Eleanor the daughter likewise and Coheire of Edmund Beaufort Duke of Somerset was the sixth Earle who having no children and his brother Thomas being executed for taking armes against King Henry the eighth in the first difference about Religion as if now that family had beene at a finall end for ever prodigally gave away a great part of that most goodly inheritance unto the King and others Some few yeeres after Sir Iohn Dudley Earle of Warwick got to himselfe the title of Duke of Northumberland by the name of Iohn Earl of Warwick Marshal of England Vicount Lisle Baron Somery Basset and Ties Lord of Dudley Great Master and Steward of the Kings house when as in the tender age of King Edward the sixth the Chieftaines and leaders of the factions shared titles of honour among themselves their fautors and followers This was that Duke of Northumberland who for the time like unto a tempestuous whirlewind began to shake and teare the publicke peace of the state whiles he with vast ambition plotted and practised to exclude Mary and Elizabeth the daughters of King Henry the eighth from their lawfull right of succession and to set the Emperiall Crowne upon Lady Jane Grey his daughter in law being seconded therein by the great Lawyers who are alwaies forward enough to humour and sooth up those that bee in highest place For which being attainted of high treason he lost his head and at his execution embraced and publikely professed Popery which long before either seriously or colorably for his own advantage he had renounced When he was gone Queene Mary restored Thomas Percy nephew unto Henry the sixth Earle by his brother Thomas unto his bloud and by a new Patent created him first Baron Percy and anon Earle of Northumberland to himselfe and the heires males of his body and for default thereof to his brother Henry and his heires males But this Thomas the seventh Earle for his treason to Prince and country under maske of restoring the Romish religion againe lost both life and dignity in the yeere 1572. Yet through the singular favour and bounty of Queen Elizabeth according to that Patent of Queene Mary his brother Henry succeeded after him as the eighth Earle who in the yeere 1585. ended his dayes in prison and had for his successor Henry his sonne by Katherin the eldest daughter and one of the heires of John Nevill Lord Latimer the ninth Earle of Northumberland of this family Parishes in Northumberland about 46. SCOTLAND SCOTIA Regnum SCOTLAND NOw am I come to SCOTLAND and willingly I assure you will I enter into it but withall lightly passe over it For I remember well that said saw In places not well knowne lesse while wee must stay
processe of time this Hierarchie or Ecclesiasticall government was established in Scotland Two Archbishops one of Saint Andrews the other of Glasco whereof the former is counted Primate of all Scotland under whom there be eight Bishoprickes Dunkeld Aberdon Murray Dunblan Brechin Rosse Cathanes Orkney Under the Archbishop of Glasco there be onely three Candida Casa or Galloway Lismore or Argile The Iles. THE STATES OR DEGREES OF SCOTLAND THe Republicke or Commonwealth of the Scots like as that of Englishmen consisteth of a King the Nobility or Gentry and Commons The King that I may use the words of their owne Record is Directus totius Dominus that is The direct Lord of the whole Domain or Dominion and hath royall authority and jurisdiction over all the States and degrees as well Ecclesiasticall as Lay or Temporall Next unto the King is his eldest sonne who is called PRINCE OF SCOTLAND and by a peculiar right Duke of Rothsay and Seneschall or Steward of Scotland But all the rest of the Kings children are named simply Princes Among the Nobles the greatest and most honourable were in old time The Thanes that is those who if my judgement be ought were ennobled onely by the office which they administred For the word in the ancient English Saxon tongue signifieth The Kings Minister Of these they of the superior place were called Abthanes the inferior Under Thanes But these names by little and little grew out of use ever since that King Malcolm the third conferred the titles of Earles and Barons after the manner received from the English upon Noble men of good desert Since when in processe of time new titles of honours were much taken up and Scotland as well as England hath had Dukes Marquesses Earles Vicounts and Barons As for the title of Duke the first that brought it into Scotland was King Robert the third about the yeere of Salvation 1400. like as the honourable titles of Marquesse and Vicount were first brought in by our most gracious Soveraigne King James the sixth These are counted Nobles of the higher degree and have both place and voice in the Parliaments and by a speciall name are called Lords like as also the Bishops Among the Nobles of a lower degree in the first place are ranged Knights who verily are dubbed with greater solemnity than in any other place throughout all Europe by taking of an oath and are proclaimed by the publike voice of an Herald Of a second sort are they who are tearmed Lairds and Barons among whom none were reckoned in old time but such as held immediatly from the King lands in Chef and had jus furcarum that is power to hang c. In the third place are all such as being descended from worshipfull houses and not honoured with any especiall dignitie be termed Gentlemen All the rest as Citizens Merchants Artisans c. are reputed among the Commons THE JUDICATORIES OR COURTS OF JUSTICE THe supreme Court as well for dignitie as authoritie is accounted the Assembly of the States of the Kingdome which is called by the very same name as it is in England A Parliament hath the same verie power as absolute It consisteth of three States of Lords Spirituall namely Bishops Abbots and Priors and of Lords Temporall to wit Dukes Marquesses Earles Vicounts and Barons and Commissioners for Cities Burghs Unto whom were adjoined not long since for everie Countie also two Commissioners It is appointed and solemnly called by the King at his pleasure at a certain set time before it be holden When these States abovesaid are assembled and the causes of their assembly delivered by the King or the Chancellour the Lords Spirituall chuse out apart by themselves eight of the Lords Temporall Semblably the Lords Temporall make choise of as many out of the Lords Spirituall then the same all jointly together nominate 8. of the Commissioners for the counties as many of the Commissioners for the free Burghs regall which make up in all the number of 32. And then these Lords of the Articles so they are termed together with the Chancellor Treasurer Keeper of the Privie Seale Kings Secretarie c. do admit or reject everie bill proposed unto the States after they have bin first imparted unto the King Being allowed by the whole assembly of the States they are throughly weighed and examined and such of them as passe by the greater number of voices are exhibited unto the King who by touching them with his Scepter pronounceth that hee either ratifieth and approveth them or disableth and maketh the same voide But if any thing disliketh the King it is razed out before The Second Court or next unto the Parliament is the Colledge of Iustice or as they call it The Session which King James the fifth 1532. instituted after the forme of the Parliament of Paris consisting of a President 14. Senatours seven of the Cleargie and as many of the Laitie unto whom was adjoined afterward the Chancellor who hath the chiefe place and five other Senatours three principall Scribes or Clerks and as many Advocates as the Senatours shall thinke good These sit and minister justice not according to the rigour of law but with reason and equitie every day save onely on the Lords day and Monday from the first of November to the fifteenth of March and from Trinitie Sunday unto the Calends of August All the space betweene as being the times of sowing and harvest is vacation and intermission of all suites and law matters They give judgement according to the Parliament Statutes and Municipall Lawes and where they are defective they have recourse to the Imperiall Civill Law There are besides in everie Countie inferiour civill Judicatories or Courts kept wherein the Sheriffe of the shire or his deputie decideth the controversies of the inhabitants about violent ejections intrusions dammages debts c. From which Courts and Judges in regard of hard and unequall dealing or else of alliance and partialitie they appeale sometime to the Session These Sheriffes are all for the most part hereditarie For the Kings of Scots like as of England also to oblige more surely unto them the better sort of Gentlemen by their benefits and favours made in old time these Sheriffes hereditarie and perpetuall But the English Kings soone perceiving the inconveniences thereby ensuing of purpose changed this order and appointed them from yeere to yeere There be civill Courts also in everie regalitie holden by their Bailiffes to whom the Kings have graciously granted royalties as also in free Burroughs by the Magistrates thereof There are likewise Judicatories which they call Commissariats the highest whereof is kept at Edenburgh in which before foure Judges actions are pleaded concerning Wills and Testaments the right of Ecclesiasticall benefices Tithes Divorces and such other Ecclesiasticall causes In every other severall part almost throughout the Kingdome there sitteth but one Judge alone in a place about these
matters In criminall causes the Kings chiefe Justice holdeth his Court for the most part at Edenburgh which office the Earles of Argile have executed now for some yeeres And he doth depute two or three Lawyers who have the hearing and deciding of capitall actions concerning life and death or of such as inferre losse of limbs or of all goods In this Court the Defendant is permitted yea in case of high treason to entertaine a Counsellor or Advocate to pleade his cause Moreover in criminall matters there are sometimes by vertue of the Kings commission and authoritie Justices appointed for the deciding of this or that particular cause Also the Sheriffes in their territories and Magistrates in some Burghs may sit in judgement of man-slaughter in case the man-slayer be taken within 24. houres after the deed committed and being found guiltie by a Jurie put him to death But if that time be once overpast the cause is referred and put over to the Kings Iustice or his Deputies The same priviledge also some of the Nobilitie and Gentrie enjoy against theeves taken within their owne jurisdictions There bee likewise that have such Roialties as that in criminall causes they may exercise a jurisdiction within their owne limits and in some cases recall those that dwell within their owne limits and liberties from the Kings Justice howbeit with a caution and proviso interposed That they judge according to Law Thus much briefly have I put downe as one that hath but sleightly looked into these matters yet by the information of the judicious Knight Sir Alexander Hay his Majesties Secretarie for that kingdome who hath therein given me good light But as touching SCOTLAND what a noble countrey it is and what men it breedeth as sometimes the Geographer wrote of Britaine there will within a while more certaine and more evident matter be delivered since that most high and mightie Prince hath set it open now for us which had so long time beene shut from us Meane while I will come unto the description of places the project that I entended especially GADENI or LADENI UPon the Ottadini or Northumberland bordered as next neighbours the 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is GADENI who also by the inversion or turning of one letter upside downe are called in some Copies of Ptolomee LADENI seated in that countrey which lieth betweene the mouth of the river Twede and Edenburgh Forth and is at this day divided into many petty Countries the chiefe whereof are Teifidale Twedale Merch and Lothien in Latine Lodeneium under which one generall name alone the Writers of the middle time comprised all the rest TEIFIDALE TEifidale that is to say the Vale by the river Teifie or Teviat lying next unto England among the edges of high craggie hills is inhabited by a warlike nation which by reason of so many encounters in foregoing ages betweene Scottish and English are alwaies most readie for service and sudden invasions The first place among these that wee meet with is Iedburgh a Burrough well inhabited and frequented standing neere unto the confluence of Teifie and Ied whereof it took the name also Mailros a very ancient Monastery wherein at the beginning of our Church were cloistered Monkes of that ancient order and institution that gave themselves to prayer and with their hand-labour earned their living which holy King David restored and replenished with Cistertian Monkes And more Eastward where Twede and Teifie joine in one streame Rosburg sheweth it selfe called also Roxburg and in old time MARCHIDUN because it was a towne in the Marches where stands a Castle that for naturall situation and towred fortifications was in times past exceeding strong Which being surprised and held by the English whiles James the second King of Scots encircled it with a siege hee was by a peece of a great Ordnance that brake slaine untimely in the very floure of his youth a Prince much missed and lamented of his Subjects As for the castle it was yeelded and being then for the most part of it layed even with the ground is now in a manner quite vanished and not to bee seene The territory adjoyning called of it the Sherifdome of Roxburg hath one hereditary Sheriffe out of the family of the Douglasses who is usually called the Sheriffe of Teviot Dale And now hath Roxburg also a Baron Robert Kerr through the favour of King James the sixth out of the family of the Kerrs a famous house and spred into a number of branches as any one in that tract out of which the Fernhersts and others inured in martiall feats have been of great name Twede aforesaid runneth through the middest of a Dale taking name of it replenished with sheepe that beare wooll of great request A very goodly river this is which springing more inwardly Eastward after it hath passed as it were in a streight channell by Drimlar Castle by Peblis a mercate towne which hath for the Sheriff thereof Baron Zeister like as Selkirk hard by hath another out of the family of Murray of Fallohill entertaineth Lauder a riveret at which appeareth Lauder together with Thirlestan where stands a very faire house of Sir John Mettellan late Chancellor of Scotland whom for his singular wisdome King James the sixth created Baron of Thirlestan Then Twede beneath Roxburg augmented with the river of Teviot resorting unto him watereth the Sherifdome of Berwick throughout a great part whereof is possessed by the Humes wherein the chiefe man of that family exerciseth now the jurisdiction of a Sheriffe and so passeth under Berwick the strongest towne of Britain whereof I have spoken already where hee is exceeding full of Salmons and so falleth into the sea MERCHIA MERCH or MERS MERCH which is next and so named because it is a march country lyeth wholly upon the German sea In this first Hume Castle sheweth it selfe the ancient possession of the Lords of Home or Hume who being descended from the family of the Earles of Merch are growne to be a noble and faire spred family out of which Alexander Hume who before was the first Baron of Scotland and Sheriff of Berwick was of late advanced by James King of great Britaine to the title of Earle Hume Neere unto which lieth Kelso famous sometime for the monastery which with thirteen others King David the first of that name built out of the ground for the propagation of Gods glory but to the great empairing of the Crowne land Then is to be seene Coldingham which Bede calleth the City Coldana and the City of Coludum haply COLANIA mentioned by Ptolomee a place consecrated many ages since unto professed Virgins or Nunnes whose chastity is recorded in ancient bookes For that they together with Ebba their Prioresse cut off their owne noses and lips choosing rather to preserve their virginity from the Danes than their beauty and favour and yet for all that the Danes burnt their monasterie and them withall Hard by is Fast-castle a castle of
the Lords Humes so called for their firmnesse and strength thereof at the Promontory of the said Saint Ebbe who being the daughter of Edilfria King of Northumberland when her Father was taken prisoner got hold of a boat in Humber and passing along the raging Ocean landed here in safety became renowned for her sanctimony and left her name unto the place But this Merch is mentioned in the Historiographers a great deale more for the Earles thereof than for any places therein who for martiall prowesse were highly renowned and descended from Gospatricke Earle of Northumberland whom after he was fled from William Conqueror of England Malcom Canmor that is With the great head King of Scotland entertained enriched him with the castle of Dunbar and honoured with the Earldome of Merch. Whose posterity besides other goodly and faire lands in Scotland held as appeareth plainly in an old Inquisition the Barony of Bengeley in Northumberland that they should be Inborow and Utborow betweene England and Scotland What the meaning should be of these tearmes let others ghesse what my conjecture is I have said already In the reigne of King James the first George de Dunbar Earle of Merch by authority of Parliament for his Fathers rebellion lost the Propriety and possession of the Earledome of Merch and the Seignorie of Dunbar And when as hee proved by good evidences and writings brought forth that his father had beene pardoned for that fault by the Regents of the Kingdome he was answered againe that it was not in the Regents power to pardon an offence against the State and that it was expressely provided by the Lawes that children should undergoe punishment for their fathers transgressions to the end that being thus heires to their fathers rashnesse as they are to their goods and lands they should not at any time in the haughty pride of their owne power plot any treason against Prince or country This title of Earle of March among other honourable titles was given afterward to Alexander Duke of Albany and by him forfaited And in our remembrance this title of honour was revived againe in Robert the third brother of Mathew Earle of Lennox who being of a Bishop of Cathanes made Earle of Lennox resigned up that title soone after unto his nephew then created Duke of Lennox and he himselfe in lieu thereof received of the King the name and stile of the Earle of Merch. LAUDEN or LOTHIEN LOTHIEN which is also called Lauden named in times past of the Picts Pictland shooteth out along from Merch unto the Scottish sea or the Forth having many hils in it and little wood but for fruitfull corn-fields for courtesie also and civility of manners commended above all other countries of Scotland About the yeere of our salvation 873. Eadgar King of England betweene whom and Keneth the third King of Scots there was a great knot of alliance against the Danes common enemies to them both resigned up his right unto him in this Lothien as Matthew the Flour-gatherer witnesseth and to winne his heart the more unto him He gave unto him many mansions in the way wherein both he and his successours in their comming unto the Kings of England and in returne homeward might be lodged which unto the time of K. Henry the second continued in the hands of the Kings of Scotland In this Lothien the first place that offereth it selfe unto our sight upon the sea side is Dunbar a passing strong castle in old time and the seat of the Earles of Merch aforesaid who thereupon on were called Earles of Dunbar A Peece many a time wonne by English and as often recovered by the Scottish But in the yeere 1567. by authority of the States in Parliament it was demolished because it should not be an hold and place of refuge for rebels But James King of great Britain conferred the title and honour of Earle of Dunbar upon Sir George Hume for his approved fidelity whom he had created before Baron Hume of Barwick to him his heires and assignes Hard by Tine a little river after it hath runne a short course falleth into the sea neere unto the spring-head whereof standeth Zeister which hath his Baron out of the family of the Haies Earles of Aroll who also is by inheritance Sheriffe of the little territory of Twedall or Peblis By the same riveret some few miles higher is seated Hadington or Hadina in a wide and broad plaine which towne the English fortified with a deepe and large ditch with a mure or rampire also without foure square and with foure bulwarkes at the corners and with as many other at the inner wall and Sir Iames Wilford an Englishman valiantly defended it against Dessie the Frenchman who with ten thousand French and Dutch together fiercely assaulted it untill that by reason of the plague which grew hot among the garrison souldiers Henry Earle of Rutland comming with a royall army raised the siege removed the French and having laid the munitions levell conducted the English home And now of late King James the sixth hath ranged Sir Iohn Ramsey among the Nobles of Scotland with title and honour of Vicount Hadington for his faithfull valour as whose RIGHT HAND was the DEFENDER OF PRINCE AND COUNTREY in that most wicked conspiracy of the Gowries against the Kings person Touching this Hadington thus hath Master I. Ionston versified Planities praetensa jacet prope flumina Tinae Fluminiâ— arguti clauditur ista sinu Vulcani Martis quae passa incendia fati Ingemit alterno vulnere fracta vices Nunc tandem sapit icta Dei praecepta secuta Praesidio gaudet jam potiore Poli. Before it lies a spacious plaine the Tine his streame hard by In bosome of that river shrill this towne enclos'd doth lie Which having suffered grievous smart of fire and sword by turnes Grones under these misfortunes much and for her losses mournes But now at length selfe-harmes have made it wise and by Gods lore Directed helpe it hath from heaven which steedeth it much more Within a little of Hadington standeth Athelstanford so called of Athelstane a chiefe leader of the English slaine there with his men about the yeere 815. But that he should be that warlike Athelstane which was King of the West-Saxons both the account of the times and his owne death doe manifestly controlle it Above the mouth of this Tine in the very bending of the shore standeth Tantallon Castle from whence Archibald Douglas Earle of Angus wrought James the fifth King of Scots much teene and trouble Here by retiring backe of the shores on both sides is roome made for a most noble arme of the sea and the same well furnished with Ilands which by reason of many rivers encountring it by the way and the tides of the surging sea together spreadeth exceeding broad Ptolomee calleth it BODERIA Tacitus BODOTRIA of the depth as I guesse the Scots The Forth and Frith we Edenburgh Frith others
was Robert Boide whose wife and Earldome together when Boide was banished the realme James L. Hamilton as I said erewhile obtained and his posteritie enjoyed the same Earldome saving that of late Sir James Steward appointed guardian to James Hamilton Earle of Arran when hee was so defective in understanding that he could not manage his estate tooke this title in the right of being guardian Neere unto this standeth Buthe so called of a little religious Cell which Brendanus founded for so is a little Cell tearmed in the Scottish tongue In this Iland is Rothsay Castle which giveth the title of Dukedome unto the King of Scots eldest sonne who is borne Prince of Scotland Duke of Rothsay and Seneschall of Scotland since time that King Robert the third invested Robert his eldest sonne Duke of Rothsay the first in Scotland that ever was created Duke With which title also Queene Marie honoured Henrie Lord Darly before she tooke him to be her husband Then shew themselves Hellan sometimes called Hellan Leneow that it as Iohn Fordon interpreteth it The Saints Ilands and Hellan Tinoc that is The Swines Iland with a great number of other Ilands of lesse note and reckoning in the same Forth DAMNII CLUYDSDALE c. BEyond the NOVANTES more inward by the river Glotta or Cluyd and farther still even to the verie East sea dwelt in times past the DAMNII in those countries if I have any judgement for in things so farre remote from our remembrance and in so thick a mist of obscuritie who can speake of certaintie which are now callled Cluydsdale the Baronie of Renfraw Lennox Strivelinshire Menteth and Fife Neere unto the head of Cluyd in Crawford Moore among the wilde wasts certaine husbandmen of the countrey after great store of violent raine happened to finde certaine small peeces like scrapings of gold which have this long time given great hope of much riches but most of all in our dayes since that Sir Beamis Bulmer undertooke with great endevour to finde out here a Mine of gold Certes there is Azur gotten forth everie day without any paines in manner at all Now the Castle of Crawford together with the title of the Earle of Crawford was by Robert the second King of Scots given unto Sir James Lindesey who by a single combate performed with Baron Welles an Englishman won high commendation for his valour These Lindeseyes have deserved passing well of their country and are of ancient nobilitie ever since that Sir William Lindesey married one of the heires of William of Lancaster Lord of Kandale in England whose neice in the third degree of lineall descent was married into the most honourable family of Coucy in France Cluyd after hee hath from his spring head with much struggling got out Northward by Baron Somervils house receiveth unto him from out of the West the river Duglasse or Douglasse so called of a blackish or greenish water that it hath which river communicateth his name both to have the vale through which hee runneth called Douglasdale and also to Douglasse castle therein which name that castle likewise hath imparted unto the family of the Douglasses Which I assure you is very ancient but most famous ever since that Sir James Douglasse stucke verie close at all times as a most fast friend unto King Robert Brus and was readie alwaies with singular courage resolution and wisdome to assist him claiming the kingdome in most troublesome and dangerous times and whom the said King Robert charged at his death to carrie his heart to Jerusalem that hee might bee discharged of his vow made to goe to the holy-Holy-land In memoriall whereof the Douglasses have inserted in their Coat of Armes a mans heart From which time this family grew up to that power and greatnesse and namely after that King David the second had created William Earle of Douglasse that they after a sort awed the Kings themselves For at one time well neere there were sixe Earles of them namely of this Douglasse of Angus of Ormund of Wigton of Murray and of Morton among whom the Earle of Wigton through his martiall prowesse and desert obtained at the hands of Charles the seventh king of France the title of Duke of Tourain and left the same to two Earles of Douglasse his heires after him Above the confluence of Douglasse and Cluyd is Lanric the hereditarie Sheriffdom of the Hamiltons who for their name are beholden unto Hamilton castle which standeth somewhat higher upon Cluyds banke in a fruitfull and passing pleasant place but they referre their originall as they have a tradition to a certaine Englishman surnamed Hampton who having taken part with Robert Brus received from him faire lands in this tract Much increase of their wealth and estate came by the bounteous hand of King James the third who bestowed in marriage upon Sir James Hamilton his own eldest sister whom he had taken perforce from the Lord Boide her husband together with the Earledome of Arran but of honours and dignities by the States of the kingdome who after the death of King James the fifth ordained James Hamilton grandsonne to the former James Regent of Scotland whom Henrie also the second King of France advanced to be Duke of Chasteau Herald in Poictou as also by King James the sixth who honoured his son John with the title of Marquesse of Hamilton which honourable title was then first brought into Scotland The river Glotta or Cluyd runneth from Hamilton by Bothwell which glorieth in the Earles thereof namely John Ramsey whose greatnesse with King James the third was excessive but pernicious both to himselfe and the King and the Hepburns whom I have already spoken of so streight forward with a readie stream through Glascow in ancient times past a Bishops seat but discontinued a great while untill that King William restored it up againe but now it is an Archbishops See and an Universitie which Bishop Turnbull after hee had in a pious and religious intent built a colledge in the yeere 1554. first founded This Glascow is the most famous town of merchandise in this tract for pleasant site and apple trees and other like fruit trees much commended having also a verie faire bridge supported with eight arches Of which towne I. Ionstoun thus versified Non te Pontificum luxus non Insula tantùm Ornavit diri quae tibi caussa mali Glottiadae quantùm decorant te Glascua Musae Quae celsum attollunt clara sub astra caput GLOTTA decus rerum piscosis nobilis undis Finitimi recreat jugera laeta soli Ast Glottae decus vicinis gloria terris Glascua foe cundat flumine cuncta suo The sumptuous port of Bishops great hath not adorn'd thee so Nor mitre rich that hath beene cause of thine accursed woe As Cluyds Muses grace thee now O Glascow towne for why They make thee beare thy head aloft up to the starrie skie Cluyd the beautie of the
father to Matthew Earle of Lennox who having sustained sundrie troubles in France and Scotland found fortune more friendly to him in England through the favour of King Henrie the eighth considering that hee bestowed upon him in marriage his Neice with faire lands By the meanes of this happie marriage were brought into the world Henrie and Charles Henrie by Marie Queene of Scots had issue JAMES the sixth King of Britain by the propitious grace of the eternall God borne in a most auspicate and lucky houre to knit and unite in one bodie of an Empire the whole Island of Britaine divided as well in it selfe as it was heretofore from the rest of the world and as we hope and pray to lay a most sure foundation of an everlasting securitie for our heires and the posteritie As for Charles he had issue one onely daughter Arbella who above her sexe hath so embraced the studies of the best literature that therein shee hath profited and proceeded with singular commendation and is comparable with the excellent Ladies of old time When Charles was dead after that the Earledome of Lennox whereof he stood enfeoffed was revoked by Parliamentarie authoritie in the yeere of our Lord 1579. and his Unkle by the fathers side Robert Bishop of Cathanes had some while enjoyed this title in lieu whereof he received at the Kings hands the honour of the Earle of March King James the sixth conferred the honourable title of Duke of Lennox upon Esme Steward sonne to John Lord D'Aubigny younger brother to Mathew aforesaid Earle of Lennox which Lodowic Esme his son at this day honourably enjoieth For since the time of Charles the sixth there were of this line Lords of Aubigny in France the said Robert before named and Bernard or Eberard under Charles the eighth Lewis the twelfth who is commended with great praise unto posteritie by P. Iovius for his noble acts most valerously exploited in the warre of Naples a most firme and trustie companion of King Henrie the seventh when he entred into England Who used for his Emprese or devise a Lion betweene buckles with this Mot DISTANTIA JUNGIT for that by his meanes the Kingdomes of France and of Scotland severed and dis-joined so farre in distance were by a straighter league of friendship conjoyned like as Robert Steward Lord D'Aubigny of the same race who was Marshall of France under King Lewis the eleventh for the same cause used the royall Armes of France with buckles Or in a border Gueules which the Earles and Dukes of Lennox have ever since borne quarterly with the Armes of Steward STIRLING Sheriffdome UPon Lennox North-eastward bordereth the territorie of STERLING so named of the principall towne therein for fruitfull soile and numbers of Gentlemen in it second to no province of Scotland Here is that narrow land or streight by which Dunbritton Frith and Edenborrough Frith that I may use the termes of this our age piercing farre into the land out of the West and East Seas are divided asunder that they meet not the one with the other Which thing Iulius Agricola who marched hitherto and beyond first observed and fortified this space betweene with garrisons so as all the part of Britaine in this side was then in possession of the Romans and the enemies removed and driven as it were into another Island in so much as Tacitus judged right truely There was no other bound or limit of Britaine to bee sought for Neither verily in the time ensuing did either the VALOUR of Armies or the GLORIE of the Romane name which scarcely could be stayed set out the marches of the Empire in this part of the world farther although with inâ—odes they other whiles molested and endammaged them But after this glorious expedition of Agricola when himselfe was called backe Britaine as faith Tacitus became for-let neither was the possession kept still thus farre for the Caledonian Britans drave the Romans backe as farre as to the river Tine in so much as Hadrian who came into Britaine in person about the fortieth yeere after and reformed many things in it went no farther forward but gave commandement that the GOD TERMINUS which was wont to give ground unto none should retire backward out of this place like as in the East on this side Euphrates Hence it is that S. Augustine wrote in this wise God TERMINUS who gave not place to Iupiter yeelded unto the will of Hadrianus yeelded to the rashnesse of Iulian yeelded to the necessitie of Iovian In so much as Hadrian had enough to doe for to make a wall of turfe between the rivers Tine and Esk well neere an hundred miles Southward on this side Edenborrough Frith But Antoninus Pius who being adopted by Hadrian bare his name stiled thereupon TITUS AELIUS HADRIANUS ANTONINUS PIUS under the conduct of Lollius Urbicus whom he had sent hither Lievtenant repelled the Northern enemies backe againe beyond BODOTRIA or Edenborrough Forth and that by raising another wall of turfe namely besides that of Hadrianus as Capitolinus writeth Which wall that it was reared in this verie place whereof I now speake and not by Severus as it is commonly thought I will produce no other witnesses than two ancient Inscriptions digged up here of which the one fastned in the wall of an house at Cader sheweth how the second Legion Augusta set up the wall for the space of three miles and more the other now in the house of the Earle Marshall at Dunotyr which implieth that a band of the twentieth Legion Victrix raised the said wall three miles long But see here the verie inscriptions themselves as Servatius Riheley a Gentleman of Silesia who curiously travailed these countries copied them out for mee IMP. CAESARI T. AELIO HADRIANO ANTONINO AUG PIO P. P. VEXILLATIO LEG XX. VAL. VIC F. PER. MIL. P. III. IMP. CAES. TIT. IO AELIO HADRIANO ANTON AUG PIO PP LEG II. AUG PER. M. P. III. D. CIXVIS At Cadir where this latter inscription is extant there is another stone also erected by the second Legion Augusta wherein within a Laurell garland supported by two little images resembling victorie are these letters LEG II AVG. FEC And in a village called Miniabruch out of a Ministers house there was removed this inscription into a Gentlemans house which is there new built out of the ground D. M. C. JULI MARCELLINI PRAEF COH I. HAMIOR But when the Northerne nations in the reigne of Commodus having passed once over this wall had made much wast and spoile in the countrey the Emperour Severus as I have alreadie said repaired this wall of Hadrian Howbeit afterwards the Romans brought eftsoones the countrey lying betweene under their subjection For Ninius hath recorded that Carausius under Diocletian strengthened this wall another time and fortified it with seven castles Lastly the Romanes fensed this place when Theodosius the younger was Emperour under the conduct of Gallio of Ravenna Now saith Bede they
way to convey their small vessels over it by land Which I hope a man may sooner beleeve than that the Argonauts laid their great ship Argos upon their shoulders and so carried it along with them five hundred miles from Aemonia unto the shores of Thessalia LORN SOmewhat higher toward the North lyeth LORN bearing the best kinde of barley in great plentie and divided with Leaue a vast and huge lake by which standeth Berogomum a castle in which sometime was kept the Court of Justice or Session and not farre from it Dunstafag that is Stephens Mount the Kings house in times past above which Logh Aber a Lake insinuating it selfe from out of the Westerne sea windeth it selfe so farre within land that it had conflowed together with Nesse another Lake running into the East sea but that certaine mountaines betweene kept them with a verie little partition asunder The chiefest place of name in this tract is Tarbar in Logh Kinkeran where King James the fourth ordained a Justice and Sheriffe to administer justice unto the Inhabitants of the out Islands These countries and those beyond them in the yeere of our Lords Incarnation 655. the Picts held whom Bede calleth the Northern Picts where hee reporteth that in the said yeere Columbane a Priest and Abbat famous for his Monkish profession and life came out of Ireland into Britaine to instruct these in Christian religion that by meanes of the high rough ridges of the mountaines were sequestred from the Southerne countries of the Picts and that they in lieu of a reward allowed unto him the Iland Hii over against them now called I-Comb-Kill of which more in place convenient The Lords of Lorna in the age aforegoing were the Stewarts but now by reason of a female their heire the Earles of Argile who use this title in their honourable stile BRAID ALBIN or ALBANY MOre inwardly where the uninhabitable loftie and rugged ridges of the Mountaine Grampius begin a little to slope and settle downeward is seated BRAID-ALBIN that is The highest part of Scotland for they that are the true and right Scots indeed call Scotland in their mother tongue Albin like as that part where it mounteth up highest Drum Albin that is the Ridge of Scotland But in an old booke it is read Brun Albin where wee finde this written Fergus filius Eric c. that is Fergus the sonne of Eric was the first of the seed or line of Chonare that entred upon the Kingdome of Albanie from Brun-Albain unto the Irish sea and Inch-Gall And after him the Kings descended from the seed or race of Fergus reigned in Brun-Albain or Brunhere unto Alpin the sonne of Eochall But this Albanie is better knowne for the Dukes thereof than for any good gifts that the soile yeeldeth The first Duke of Albanie that I read of was Robert Earle of Fife whom his brother King Robert the third of that name advanced to that honour yet he ungratefull person that he was pricked on with the spirit of ambition famished to death his sonne David that was heire to the crown But the punishment due for this wicked fact which himselfe by the long-sufferance of God felt not his son Mordac the second Duke of Albanie suffered most grievously being condemned for treason and beheaded when hee had seene his two sonnes the day before executed in the same manner The third Duke of Albanie was Alexander second sonne to King James the second who being Regent of the Kingdome Earle of March Marr and Garioth Lord of Annandale and of Man was by his own brother King James the third outlawed and after hee had beene turmoiled with many troubles in the end as hee stood by to behold a Justs and Tourneament in Paris chanced to bee wounded with a peece of a shattered launce and so died His sonne John the fourth Duke of Albanie Regent likewise and made Tutour to King James the fifth taking contentment in the pleasant delights of the French Court after hee had wedded there the daughter and one of the heires of John Earle of Auverne and Lauragveze died there without issue Whom in a respective reverence to the bloud royall of the Scots Francis the first King of France gave thus much honour unto as that hee allowed him place betweene the Archbishop of Langres and the Duke of Alenson Peeres of France After his death there was no Duke of Albanie untill that Queene Marie in our memorie conferred this title upon Henrie Lord Darly whom within some few daies after shee made her husband like as King James the sixth granted the same unto his owne second sonne Charles being an Infant who is now Duke of Yorke There inhabite these regions a kinde of people rude warlike readie to fight querulous and mischievous they bee commonly tearmed High-landmen who being in deed the right progenie of the ancient Scots speak Irish call themselves Albinich their bodies be firmely made and well compact able withall and strong nimble of foot high minded inbread and nuzzeled in warlike exercises or robberies rather and upon a deadly feud and hatred most forward and desperate to take revenge They goe attired Irish-like in stript or streaked mantles of divers colours wearing thicke and long glibbes of haire living by hunting fishing fowling and stealing In the warre their armour is an head-peece or Morion of iron and an habergeon or coat of maile their weapons bee bowes barbed or hooked arrowes and broad backe-swords and being divided by certaine families or kinreds which they terme Clannes they commit such cruell outrages what with robbing spoiling and killing that their savage crueltie hath forced a law to bee enacted whereby it is lawfull That if any person out of any one Clanne or kinred of theirs hath trespassed ought and done harme whosoever of that Clanne or linage chance to bee taken he shall either make amends for the harmes or else suffer death for it when as the whole Clan commonly beareth feud for any hurt received by any one member thereof by execution of lawes order of justice or otherwise PERTHIA OR PERTH Sheriffdome OUt of the very bosome of Mountaines of Albany Tau the greatest river of all Scotland issueth and first runneth amaine through the fields untill that spreading broad into a lake full of Islands hee restraineth and keepeth in his course Then gathering himselfe narrow within his bankes into a channell and watering Perth a large plentifull and rich countrey he taketh in unto him Amund a small river comming out of Athol This Athol that I may digresse a little out of my way is infamous for witches and wicked women the countrey otherwise fertile enough hath vallies bespread with forrests namely where that WOOD CALEDONIA dreadfull to see to for the sundrie turnings and windings in and out therein for the hideous horrour of dark shades for the burrowes and dennes of wild bulls with thicke manes whereof I made mention heretofore
time and from out of them three hundred yeeres agoe and thirtie Robert Stewart by Marjorie his mother daughter to King Robert Brus obtained the Kingdome of Scotland and now lately James Stewart of that name the sixth King of Scots by Margaret his great grandmother daughter to King Henrie the seventh the divine power of that most high and almightie Ruler of the world so disposing is ascended with the generall applause of all nations to the height of Monarchicall majestie over all Britaine and the Isles adjacent ROSSIA THe Province ROSSE so called by an old Scottish word which some interpret to be a Promontorie others a Biland was inhabited by the people named CANTAE which terme in effect implieth as much in the time of Ptolomee This extendeth it selfe so wide and large that it reacheth from the one sea to the other What way it beareth upon the Vergivian or Western Ocean by reason of huge swelling mountaines advancing their heads aloft and many woods among them it is full of stagges roe buckes fallow Deere and wilde foule but where it butteth upon the German sea it is more lovely bedect with corne fields and pastures and withall much more civill In the very first entrance into it Ardmanoch no small territorie whereof the second sonnes of the Kings of Scotland beare the title riseth up with high mountaines that are most trustie preservers of snow As touching their height some have reported unto me strange wonders and yet the ancient Geometers have written that neither the depth of sea nor height of hills exceed by the plumbe line ten stadia that is one mile and a quarter Which notwithstanding they that have beheld Tenariffe amongst the Canarie Ilands which is fifteene leagues high and sailed withall the Ocean neere unto them will in no wise admit for truth In this part standeth Lovet Castle and the Baronie of the worthy family of the Frasers whom for their singular good service for the Scottish kingdome King James the second accepted into the ranke of Barons and whom the Clan-Ranalds a most bloodie generation in a quarrell and braule between them had wholly destroied every mothers sonne but that by the providence of God fourescore of the principall persons of this family left their wives at home all great with child who being delivered of so many sonnes renewed the house and multiplied the name againe But at Nesse mouth there flourished sometimes Chanonrie so called of a rich Colledge of Chanons whiles the Ecclesiasticall state stood in prosperitie in which there is erected a See for the Bishop of Rosse Hard by is placed Cromartie where Urqhuart a Gentleman of noble birth by hereditarie right from his ancestours ministreth justice as Sheriffe to this Sheriffdome and this is so commodious and safe an harbour for any fleet be it never so great that both Sailers and Geographers name it PORTUS-SALUTIS that is The Haven of safetie Above it is LITTUS ALTUM whereof Ptolomee maketh mention called now as it seemeth Tarbarth for there indeed the shore riseth to a great height enclosed on the one side with Cromer a most secure and safe haven and on the other with CELNIUS now Killian the river and thus much of the places toward the East Ocean Into the west sea the river LONGUS mentioned in Ptolomee at this day named Lough Longus runneth then the CERONES anciently dwelt where now is Assinshire a countrey much mangled with many inlets and armes of the sea in bosoming it selfe with manifold commodities As for the Earls of Rosse it is full of difficulty to set them down in order successively out of writers About foure hundred yeers past we read that Ferqhuard flourished enjoied this title But for default of issue male it came by a daughter to Walter Lesley who for his noble feats of armes courageously atchieved under Lewis the Emperour was worthily named The Noble Knight he begat Alexander Earle of Rosse and a daughter married unto Donald Lord of the Islands Hebrides This Alexander had issue one onely daughter who made over by her deed all her owne title and right unto Robert Duke of Albany whereat the said Donald of the Islands being highly enchafed and repining stiled himselfe in the reigne of James the third King of the Islands and Earle of Rosse having with fire and sword laied waste his native country far neere At length the said K. James the third by authoritie of Parliament in the yeere 1476. annexed the Earldome of Rosse to the crowne so as it might not be lawfull for his successours to alienate by any meanes from the crowne either the Earldome it selfe or any parcell thereof or by any device to grant the same unto any person save onely to the Kings second sonnes lawfully borne whence it is that Charles the Kings second sonne Duke of York at this day holdeth an enjoieth the title of Earle of Rosse SUTHERLAND BEyond Rosse Sutherland looketh toward the East Ocean a land more meet to breed cattell than to beare corne wherein there be hills of white marble a wonderfull thing in this so cold a climate but of no use almost considering excesse in building and that vain ostentation of riches is not yet reached to these remote regions Here is Dunrobin a castle of very great name the principall seat of the ancient Earles of Sutherland descended if I be not deceived out of the family of Murray Among whom one William under King Robert Brus is most famous who married the sister of the whole blood to K. David and had by her a son whom the said David declared heire apparant of the crown and compelled his Nobles to sweare unto him alleageance but he within a little after departed without issue and the Earldome in the end came by a daughter and heire hereditarily unto A. Gordon one of the line of the Earles of Huntly CATHANES HIgher lieth CATHANES butting full upon the said East sea bending inward with a number of creakes and compasses which the waves as it were indent In which dwelt in Ptolomees time the CATINI but written falsly in some copies CARINI among whom the selfe same Ptolomee placeth the river Ila which may seem to be the Wifle at this day The inhabitants of this province raised their greatest gaine and revenues by grazing and raising of cattell and by fishing The chiefe castle therein is called Girnego in which the Earls of Catnesse for the most part make their abode The Bishops sea is in Dornock a little meane town otherwise where also King James the fourth appointed the Sheriffe of Catnesse to reside or else at Wik as occasions should require for the administration of justice The Earles of Catnesse in ancient times were also Earles of the Orcades but at last they became distinct and by the eldest daughter of one Malise given in marriage to William Seincler the Kings Pantler his heires successively came to be Earls of Catnesse
his Kingdome divers authors affirme to have granted by his Charter or Patent Ireland and England both unto the Church of Rome to be held of it ever after in fee and to have received it againe from the Church as a Feudatarie also to have bound his successours to pay three hundred Markes unto the Bishop of Rome But that most worthie and famous Sir Thomas Moore who tooke the Popes part even unto death affirmeth this to be false For hee writeth that the Romanists can shew no such grant that they never demanded the foresaid money and that the Kings of England never acknowledged it But by his leave as great a man as hee was the case stood otherwise as evidently appeareth by the Parliament Records the credit whereof cannot bee impugned For in an assembly of all the States of the Realme in the reigne of Edward the third the Lord Chancellour of England proposed and related that the Pope would judicially sue the King of England as well for the Homage as the tribute which was to be yeelded for England and Ireland to the performance whereof King Iohn in times past had obliged himselfe and his successours and of this point which hee put to question required their opinion The Bishops desired to have a day by them selves for to consult about this matter the Nobles likewise and the people or Communaltie The day after they all met and with one generall accord ordained and enacted That for asmuch as neither King Iohn nor any other King whatsoever could impose such servitude upon the Kingdome but with the common consent and assent of a Parliament which was not done and whatsoever he had passed was against his oath at his coronation by him in expresse words religiously taken before God Therefore in case the Pope should urge this matter they were most readie to the uttermost of their power to resist him resolutely with their bodies and goods They also who are skilfull in scanning and sifting everie pricke and tittle of the lawes cry out with one voice That the said Grant or Charter of King Iohn was voide in Law by that clause and reservation in the end thereof Saving unto us and our heires all our Rights Liberties and Regalities But this may seeme beside my text Ever since King Johns time the Kings of England were stiled Lords of Ireland untill that King Henrie the eighth in the memorie of our fathers was in a Parliament of Ireland by the States thereof declared King of Ireland because the name of Lord seemed in the judgement of certaine seditious persons nothing so sacred and full of majestie as the name of King This name and title of the Kingdome of Ireland were by the Popes authoritie what time as Queene Marie in the yeere 1555. had by her Embassadours in the name of the Kingdom of England tendred obedience unto the Pope Paul the fourth confirmed in these words To the laud and glorie of almightie God and his most glorious mother the Virgin Mary to the honour also of the whole Court of heaven and the exaltation of the Catholike faith as the humble request and suite made unto us by King Philip and Queen Marie about this matter wee with the advice of our brethren and of plenarie power Apostolicall by our Apostolicall authoritie erect for ever Ireland to bee a Kingdome and endow dignifie and exalt with the title dignitie honour faculties rights ensignes prerogatives preferments preeminencies royall and such as other Realmes of Christians have use and enjoy and may have use and enjoy for the times to come And seeing that I have hapned upon those Noblemens names who first of all English gave the attempt upon Ireland and most valiantly subdued it under the imperiall crowne of England lest I might seeme upon envie to deprive both them and their posteritie of this due and deserved glorie I will set them downe here out of the Chancerie of Ireland according as the title doth purport The names of them that came with Dermot Mac Morrog into Ireland Richard Strongbow Earle of Pembroch who by Eve the daughter of Morrog the Irish pettie King aforesaid had one only daughter and she brought unto William Mareschall the title of the Earldome of Pembroch with faire lands in Ireland and a goodly issue five sonnes who succeeded one another in a row all childlesse and as many daughters which enriched their husbands Hugh Bigod Earle of Norfolke Guarin Montchensey Gilbert Clare Earle of Glocester William Ferrars Earle of Derby and William Breose with children honours and possessions Robert Fitz-Stephen Harvey de Mont-Marish Maurice Prendergest Robert Barr. Meiler Meilerine Maurice Fitz-Girald Redmund nephew of Fitz-Stephen William Ferrand Miles de Cogan Richard de Cogan Gualter de Ridensford Gualter and sonnes of Maurice Fitz-Girald Alexander sonnes of Maurice Fitz-Girald William Notte Robert Fitz-Bernard Hugh Lacie William Fitz-Aldelm William Maccarell Humfrey Bohun Hugh de Gundevill Philip de Hasting Hugh Tirell David Walsh Robert Poer Osbert de Herloter William de Bendenges Adam de Gernez Philip de Breos Griffin nephew of Fitz-Stephen Raulfe Fitz-Stephen Walter de Barry Philip Walsh Adam de Hereford To whom may be added out of Giraldus Cambrensis Iohn Curcy Hugh Contilon Redmund Cantimore Redmund Fitz-Hugh Miles of S. Davids and others The Government of the Kingdome of Ireland EVer since that Ireland became subject unto England the Kings of England have sent over thither to manage the state of the Realme their Regents or Vice-gerents whom they tearmed in those writings or letters Patents of theirs whereby authoritie and jurisdiction is committed unto them first Keepers of Ireland then afterwards according as it pleased them Iustices of Ireland Lievtenants and Deputies Which authoritie and jurisdiction of theirs is very large ample and royall whereby they have power to make warre to conclude peace to bestow all Magistracies and Offices except a very few to pardon all crimes unlesse they be some of high treason to dub Knights c. These letters Patents when any one entreth upon this honourable place of government are publikely read and after a solemne oath taken in a set forme of words before the Chancellour the sword is delivered into his hands which is to be borne before him he is placed in a chaire of estate having standing by him the Chancellour of the Realme those of the Privie Councell the Peeres and Nobles of the kingdome with a King of Armes a Serjeant of Armes and other Officers of State And verily there is not looke throughout all Christendome againe any other Vice-Roy that commeth neerer unto the majestie of a King whether you respect his jurisdiction and authoritie or his traine furniture and provision There bee assistant unto him in counsell the Lord Chancellour of the Realm the Treasurer of the Kingdome and others of the Earles Bishops Barons and Judges which are of the Privie Councell For Ireland hath the very same degrees of States that England hath namely Earles Barons Knights
which Giraldus nameth Corragia Englishmen Corke and the naturall inhabitants of the country Coreach enclosed within a circuit of walls in forme of an egge with the river flowing round about it and running betweene not passable through but by bridges lying out in length as it were in one direct broad street and the same having a bridge over it Howbeit a pretty towne of merchandise it is well peopled and much resorted unto but so beset on every side with rebels neighbouring upon it that they are faine to keepe alwaies a set watch and ward as if they had continuall siege laid unto their Citie and dare not marrie their daughters forth into the country but make marriages one with another among themselves whereby all the Citizens are linked together in some degree or other of kinred and affinity The report goeth that Brioc that most devout and holy man who in that fruitfull age of Saints flourished among the Gauls and from whom the Diocesse of Sanbrioch in Britaine Armorica commonly called S. Brieu tooke the name was borne and bred here Beneath Corke the river parting in twaine environeth a large and very pleasant Iland over against the principall dwelling house of that most ancient and noble family of the Barries which thereupon is called Barry Court For that family is derived from Robert de Barry an Englishman a personage of great worth and renowned who notwithstanding chose rather among the first to be chiefe indeed than to seeme chiefe who in the winning of Ireland received wounds and hurt and the first man he was in Ireland that manned and brought the Hawk to hand His posterity by their long approved loyaltie and martiall prowesse deserved to receive of the Kings of England first the title of Baron Barry afterwards of Vicount Butiphant for their great lands and wealth gat among the people the sirname Barry more that is Barry the great Below Barry-court the river Saveren hard by Imokelly a faire possession long since of the Earle of Desmond loseth it selfe in the Ocean affording at the very mouth commodious harbours and havens As Saveren watereth the neather part of this countrey so Broodwater called in times past Aven-more that is The great River moisteneth the upper upon which inhabiteth the Noble family of Roch which being transplanted out of England hath growne up and prospered here very well and now enjoieth the title of Vicount Fermoy Certaine it is that in the reigne of Edward the second they were entituled with the honour of Parliament-Barons considering that George Roch was fined in two hundred Markes because upon summons given hee came not to the Parliament at Dublin where Broodwater which for a good while runneth as a bound between this county and the county of Waterford entring into the sea maketh an haven standeth Yoghall no great towne but walled round about built in fashion somewhat long and divided into two parts the upper which is the greater part stretching out Northward hath a Church in it and without the wall a little Abbey which they call North Abbey the neather part reaching Southward called the Base-towne had also an Abbey called South Abbey and the commodiousnesse of the haven which hath a well fensed Kay belonging unto it and the fruitfulnesse withall of the country adjoining draweth Merchants unto it so as it is well frequented and inhabited yea and hath a Mayor for the head Magistrate Thus farre in these daies reacheth the countie of Corke which in times past as I said even now was counted a kingdome and went farther as which contained within it Desmond also This kingdome King Henry the second gave and granted unto Sir Robert Fitz-Stephen and to Sir Miles de Cogan in these words Know yee that I have granted the whole kingdome of Corke excepting the City and Cantred of the Oustmans to hold for them and their heires of mee and Iohn my sonne by the service of 60. knights And the Carews of England were heires to that Fitz-Stephen from whom Sir George Carew now Baron Carew of Clopton lineally and directly deriveth his descent who not long since was the Lord President of Mounster and in some of these obscure Irish matters which I willingly acknowledge hath directed me by the light of his knowledge THE COUNTY OF WATERFORD ON the East coast of Ireland the county of WATERFORD extendeth it selfe between the rivers Broodwater West Shour East the Ocean from the South and the county of Tipperary Northward a goodly country as well for pleasant site as fertile soile Upon Broodwater so soone as it hath left Corke county behinde it Lismore sheweth it selfe well knowne for an Episcopall See in it where Christian sate sometime the Bishop and Legate of Ireland about the yeere 1148. a Prelate that deserved passing well of the Irish Church trained in his youth at Clarevall in the same cloister with St. Bernard and Pope Eugenius But now since that the possessions in manner all have beene alienated it is united unto the Bishopricke of Waterford But neere unto the mouth of the said river standeth Ardmor a little towne so called because it standeth neere the sea of which and of this river Necham long since versified thus Urbem Lisimor pertransit flumen Avenmor Ardmor cernit ubi concitus aequor adit The river named Aven-Mor through Lismor towne doth runne Ardnor him sees and there apace to sea he speeds anon The little territory adjoining unto it is called Dessee the Lord whereof one of the family of Desmond received in our remembrance the honourable title of Vicount Dessee but for that he had no issue male it vanished with him in a short time Not farre from hence standeth Dungarvan upon the sea a towne well fortified with a castle and as commodious by reason of the roade for ships which together with the Baronie of Dungarvan King Henry the sixth bountifully granted unto John Talbot Earle of Shrewsbury but afterward seeing it stood handsomely to that part of Mounster which was to be brought under and reduced to order it was by authority of Parliament annexed to the Imperiall Crowne of the Kings of England for ever Neer unto it flourished the Poers of ancient nobility from the very first time that Ireland was conquered by the English and afterward advanced to the honourable title of the Barons of Curraghmore But upon the banke of the river Suyr Waterford the chiefe and principall city of this county maketh a goodly shew Concerning which old Necham writeth in this wise Suirius insignem gaudet ditare Waterford Aequoreis undis associatur ibi The river Suyr hath great desire Faire Waterford rich to make For in this place he hies apace His course with sea to take This city which the Irish and Britans call Porthlargy the English Waterford was built by certaine Pirates of Norway and although it standeth in an aire somewhat grosse and upon a soile not very fruitfull and the streets
therein bee with the narrowest thrust close and pent together yet such is the convenience and commodiousnesse of the haven that for wealth fresh trading and frequent resort it is the second City in all Ireland and hath alwaies shewed a singular loialty fidelitie and obedience to the Imperiall Crowne of England For ever since that Richard Earle of Pembrok wanne it it hath continued so faithfull and quietly disposed that it performed at all times safe and secure peace unto the English on their backes whiles they went on in the conquering of Ireland Whence it is that the Kings of England have granted unto it very many and those right large Franchises which King Henry the seventh augmented and confirmed because the Citizens had demeaned themselves most valiantly and wisely against that Mock-Prince Perkin Warbeck who being a young man of base condition by hoising up the full sailes of impudence went about to mount up aloft unto the Imperiall diadem whiles he a meer suborned counterfeit tooke upon him to be Richard Duke of Yorke the second sonne of King Edward the fourth This countie of Waterford together with the city King Henry the sixth gave unto Iohn Talbot Earle of Shrewsbury aforesaid by these words which because they testifie the valerous vertue of that most martiall Knight to the end that vertue might have the due honour thereto belonging I thinke it worth my labour and haply any man else would deeme no lesse to put downe out of the Record which may be Englished thus We therefore saith the King after other eloquent termes penned by the Secretaries of that age when there was but simple Latin weighing with due consideration the valiant prowesse of our most deere and faithfull cousin John Earle of Shrewsbury and of Weisford Lord Talbot Furnivall and Le Strange sufficiently tried and approved even unto his old age in the warres aforesaid upon his body no lesse bedewed with sweat many a time than embrued with blood and considering in what sort our Countie and Citie of Waterford in our land of Ireland the Castle Seigniory Honour Land and Baronie of Dungarvan and all the Lordships Lands Honours and Baronies with the pertinences within the same County which by forfeiture of rebels by reversion or decease of any person or persons by escheat or any other title of law ought to come into our hands or our progenitors or in the same to be by reason of the hostile invasions of our enemies and rebells in those parts are become so desolate and lye so much exposed to the spoiles of warre wholly as it were wasted that they turne us to no profit but have and doe redound oftentimes to our detriment in this regard also that by the same our Cousin our foresaid land of Ireland may the more valiantly be defended in those parts against such attempts and invasions of our enemies and rebells doe ordaine promote and create him Earle of Waterford together with the stile title name and honour thereto belonging And because as the highnesse of his state and degree groweth all things consequently of necessity grow withall upon our speciall grace certaine knowledge and meere motion and for the estate of the Earle himselfe our Cousin to be maintained in more decent manner we have given granted and by these our letters confirmed unto the same Earle the County aforesaid together with the foresaid stile title name and honour of Earle of Waterford yea and the foresaid City with the fee ferme of the same the Castles Lordships Honours Lands and Baronies with the pertinences within the County likewise all and every sort the Manors Hundreds Wapentakes c. all along the sea coast from the towne of Yoghall unto Waterford City aforesaid To have and to hold the foresaid County of Waterford the stile title name and honour of Earle of Waterford and the City Waterford aforesaid the Castle Seigniory Honour Land and Barony of Dungarvan and all other Lordships Honours Lands and Baronies within the said county as also all and every the foresaid Manors Hundreds c. unto the above named Earle and the heires males issuing out of his body to have I say and to hold of us and our heires by homage fealty and the service of being and to be our Seneschall or Steward and that his heires be the Seneschals of Ireland to us and our heires throughout our whole land of Ireland to do and that hee doe and ought himselfe to doe in the same his office that which his predecessors Seneschals of England were wont to doe hitherto in that office for ever In witnesse whereof c. But when as whiles the Kings of England and the Nobles who had large and goodly possessions in Ireland were much busied and troubled a long time first with the warres of France and afterward with civill warres at home Ireland lay in manner neglected and the State of English there falling still to decay was now in manner come to nothing but the Irishry by occasion of the others absence grew exceeding mighty for to recover these losses and to abate the power of the Irish it was ordained and enacted by the States of the Realme in Parliament that the Earle of Shrewsbury for his absence and carelesnesse in maintaining of his owne should surrender into the hands of the King and his successors the Earledome and towne of Waterford the Duke of Norfolke likewise the Baron Barkley the heires generall of the Earle of Ormond and all the Abbats Priors c. of England who had any lands should surrender up all their possessions unto the King and his successors for the same absence and neglect THE COUNTY OF LIMERICK HItherto have wee gone over the Maritime counties of Mounster two there remaine yet behind that bee in-in-lands Limericke and Tipperary which wee are now to goe unto The county of LIMERICK lieth behinde that of Corke Northward betweene Kerry the river Shanon and the county of Tipperary A fertile countrey and well peopled but able to shew very few places of any good account and importance The more Western part of it is called Conilagh wherein among the hills Knock-Patric that is Patricks hill mounteth up of a mighty height and yeelding a pleasant prospect into the sea beholdeth afarre off the river Shanon falling with a wide and wast mouth into the Vergivian or Ocean Under which hill a sept of Fitz-Giralds or Giraldines lived honourably a long time untill that Thomas called the Knight of the Valley or of the Glin when his gracelesse sonne that wicked firebrand suffered death for to set villages and houses a fire is by the lawes of Ireland high treason because himselfe advised his sonne and set him on to enter into these lewd actions by authority of the Parliament was disseized of his goodly and large possessions The head City of this county is Limerick which Shanon a most famous river by parting his chanell compasseth round about The Irish call it Loumeag and
in Irish Bala-Mac-Andan that is The towne of Antonies sonne For it tooke both names of the founder Thomas Fitz-Anthonie an Englishman who flourished under King Henry the third whose heires are yet acknowledged the Lords thereof Beneath this towne the river Callan voideth his streame into Neore upon which standeth the third Burrough or incorporate towne of this county bearing the same name Callan Like as Inise-Teog which is the fourth The family of Butlers hath spread and branched farre and wide throughout this County men that with much honour bare a great port and for their worth and vertues were adorned with the titles of Earles of Carick Ormond Wiltshire in England and of Ossorie as is before said and at this day there remaine of their line beside the Earle of Ormond Vicount Thurles and Knight of the Order of Saint George Vicount Montgarret Vicount Tullo the Barons of Dunboyn and of Cahir a goodly race also and progenie of Noble Gentlemen The rest of the Gentry in this Tract that are of better birth and parentage be likewise of English descent as the Graces Walshes Lovells Foresters Shortels Blanch-felds or Blanchevelstons Drilanas Comerfords c. THE COUNTY OF CATERLOGH THe County of CATERLOGH by contraction Carlogh toward the Sunne rising adjoineth to the County of Kilkenny wholly in manner situate betweene the rivers Barrow and Slane of a fertile soile and shaded well with woods hath two townes in it of better note and importance than the rest both standing upon the West banke of Barrow namely Caterlogh which Leonel Duke of Clarence began to wall and Bellingham a most renowned Lord Deputy fortified with a castle Also Leighlin called in Latine Lechlinia where there was an Episcopall Chaire now united to the See of Fernes These townes have both of them their wards or garrisons and Constables over them And whereas the greatest part of this County belonged in right of inheritance unto the Howards Dukes of Norfolke who by the Earles of Warren drew their descent from the eldest daughter of William Mareschall Earle of Penbroch King Henry the eighth by a generall consent of the States of the Realme tooke unto himselfe both from them and also from other Noblemen yea and from Monasteries in England all their lands and possessions in Ireland for that the Lords thereof by neglecting in their absence their owne private estates carelesly brought therewith the publike state into danger as is already shewed From hence Barrow passeth through the Baronie Ydron which by right belonged to the Carews for Sir John Carew an English Knight died seised thereof in the time of King Edward the third and which Peter Carew within our memorie recovered as it were by a writ of remitter after it had been unlawfully usurped and a long time in the occupation of unjust detainers Upon the river Slane appeareth Tullo memorable in this regard that King James hath lately honoured Theobald Butler the Earle of Ormonds brothers sonne with the title of Vicount Tullo The Cavanaghs dwell a great many of them every way hereabouts who being descended from Dovenald a younger sonne as they say the Bastard of Dermot the last King of Leinster are spred and branched out into a very great sept or linage a warlike generation renowned for their good horse-manship and who as yet though they bee exceeding poore beare themselves in spirit answerable to their ancient nobilitie But being at deadly feud amongst themselves for I wot not what man-slaughters which many yeeres agoe they committed one upon another they daily work their owne mischiefe by mutuall wrongs and hurts When as the English had set some of these to oversee and mannage the possessions they had in this part of Ireland about King Edward the seconds time they by little and little usurped the whole country unto themselves and assumed the name of O-Mores and taking into their societie the Toles and Brenes by little and little disseized the English of all the territorie betweene Caterlogh and the Irish sea Among these is the confluence of Neore and Barrow which after they have travailed in a joint streame some few miles from hence in one channell present both their name and their waters unto their eldest sister the Shour which straightwaies is swallowed up at a mouth full of rockes within the gulfe of the Ocean where on the left hand there shooteth out a little promontorie with a narrow necke that sheweth a prettie high tower unto the sailers erected by the merchants of Rosse what time they were in their prosperity for their direction and safer arrivall at the rivers mouth QUEENES COUNTIE ABove Caterlogh toward the North-west there spreadeth out a little country full of woods and bogs named in Irish Lease and QUEENES Countie in English which Queene Mary ordained to be a Countie by Commission given unto Thomas Ratcliffe Earle of Sussex then Lord Deputie who reduced it into the tearmes of civill order and governement whence it is that the chiefe towne thereof is called Mary-Burgh where certaine garrison souldiers with their Seneschall keep ward and have much adoe to defend themselves against the O-Mores who beare themselves as the ancient Lords thereof against Mac-Gilpatric the O-Dempsies and others a mischievous and tumultuous kind of people who daily practise and plot all they can to annoy the English and to shake off the yoke of lawes For to subdue this wilde and hostile part of the countrey at the first entrie of the English thither Meilere was sent For whom Hugh Lacie governour of Ireland erected one Castle at Tahmelio like as a second at Obowy a third likewise upon the river Barrow and a fourth at Norrach But among the rest he fortified Donemaws an ancient Castle standing in the most plentifull part of the territorie which came hereditarily unto the Breoses Lords of Brecknocke by Eua the younger daughter of William Mareschall Earle of Pembroch and what way as Barrow which rising out of Slew Blomey hills Westward runneth solitarie alone amongst the woods he visiteth that ancient RHEBA mentioned by Ptolomee which keeping the name still intire is called at this day Rheban but insteed of a citie it is altogether as one saith 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is A citie citilesse or The remaines of that which was a citie even a few little cottages with a fortresse Notwithstanding it giveth the title of a Baronet unto that Nobleman Nicholas of Saint Michael the Lord thereof who is commonly called the Baronet of Rheban KINGS COUNTIE LIke as the Queenes Countie aforesaid was so named in honour of Queene Marie so the territorie bordering next unto it Northward divided with Barrow running betweene and called in times past Offalie was in honour of Philip King of Spaine her husband tearmed Kings Countie and the principall towne in it Philips Towne where is placed a Seneschall with a ward and divers Gentlemen of English blood are here planted
namely the Warrens Her-berts Colbies Mores and Leicesters amongst the Irish septs of O-Conor unto whom a great part hereof in old time belonged Mac-Coghlan O-Maily Fox and others stand stoutly in defence of the lands wonne by their ancestors and left unto them Now these naturall Irish inhabitants grumble and complaine that their livings and patrimonies have beene taken from them and no other lands assigned and set out for them to live in Hence it is that taking hold of every occasion to make uprores they put the English dwelling among them to much trouble ever and anon yea and oftentimes in revengefull minds festered and poisoned with hostile hatred they breake out furiously into open and actuall rebellions THE COUNTY OF KILDAR OVer against these all along Eastward affronteth the county of Kildar a most rich and plentifull country concerning the pastures whereof Giraldus Cambrensis useth these verses of Virgill Et quantum longis carpunt armenta diebus Exiguâ tantâ—m gelidus ros nocte reponit And looke how much when daies are long the beasts by grasing eat So much cold dewes make good againe by night when 't is not great The chiefe and head towne of the shire is Kildar much honoured and graced in the first infancy of the Irish Church by reason of Saint Brigid a Virgin right venerable and highly esteemed of for her devotion and virginity I meane not that Brigid which about 240. yeeres agoe erected that order of the sisters or Nunnes of Saint Brigid namely that within one Monastery both Monkes and Maidens should live divided asunder by walls and suffered onely one to see another but another Brigid of greater antiquity by farre as who was a Disciple of Saint Patricke of great fame and renowne throughout Ireland England and Scotland Whose miracles and fire never going out but kept by Nunnes as it were in that secret Sanctuary of Vesta and of the ashes that never encrease are mentioned by writers This Kildar is adorned with an Episcopall See named in the Popes letters in old time Episcopatus Darensis After the entrance of the English into Ireland it was the habitation of Richard Earle of Pembroch then of William Mareschall his sonne in law that married his daughter Earle of Penbroch likewise by whose fourth daughter Sibyll it came to William Ferrars Earle of Derby and by his daughter likewise begotten of her unto William Lord Vescy whose sonne William Vescy Lord chiefe Justice of Ireland standing in termes of disfavour and disgrace with King Edward the First for certain quarrels arising between him and John the sonne of Thomas Fitz-Girald and being bereft of his only sonne lawfully begotten granted and surrendred Kildare and other his lands in Ireland unto the King so that he might enfeoffe his base sonne surnamed De Kildare in his other lands in England And a little while after the said John sonne of Thomas Fitz-Girald whose ancesters descended from Girald Windesor Castellan of Pembroch had with passing great valour performed most painefull service in the conquest of this Iland was by Edward the second King of England endowed with the castle and towne of Kildar together with the title and name of Earle of Kildar These Fitz-Giralds or as they now tearme them the Giraldines are a right noble family and for their exploits highly renowned by whose valour as one said The Englishmen both kept the sea coasts of Wales and also forced and won the walls of Ireland And verily this house of Kildare flourished a long time without taint of honour and name as which never bare armes against their Prince untill that Thomas Fitz-Girald the sonne of Girald Fitz-Girald Earle of Kildare and Lord Deputy of Ireland under King Henry the eighth hearing that his father sent for into England and accused for misgoverning Ireland was put to death upon this light and false rumour unadvisedly and rashly carried away with the heat of youth put himselfe into armes against Prince and countrey solicited the Emperour Charles the fifth to enter and seize upon Ireland wasted the land farre and neere with fire and sword laid siege to Dublin and killed the Archbishop thereof For which outrages shortly after he with five of his unkles were hanged when his father for very sorrow was dead before Howbeit Queene Mary restored the family unto their blood and full estate when shee advanced Girald brother unto the aforesaid Thomas to bee Earle of Kildare and Baron of Offaly He ended this life about the yeere 1558. His eldest son Girald died before his father leaving one onely daughter married to Sir Robert Digby Henry his second sonne succeeded who when he had by his wife L. Francis daughter to Charles Earle of Nottingham only two daughters William the third son succeeded in the Earledome who was drowned in passing into Ireland in the yeere 1599. having no issue And then the title of Earle of Kildare came to Girald Fitz-Girald sonne to Edward their Unkle who was restored to his blood in linage to make title by descent lineall or collaterall from his father and brother and all his ancestours any attaindour or corruption of blood to the contrary notwithstanding There be also in this County these places of better note than the rest Naas a mercate towne Athie upon the river Barrow Mainoth a castle belonging to the Earles of Kildare and a towne unto which King Edward the first in favour of Girald Fitz-Moris granted a mercate and Faire Castle Martin the chiefe seat of the family of Fitz-Eustace which descending from the Poers in the County of Waterford for their valour received the honour of a Parliament-Barons bestowed upon Rowland Fitz-Eustace by King Edward the fourth together with the Manour of Port-lester and the title of Vicount Baltinglas at the hands of King Henry the eighth which dignities with a faire patrimony Rowland Fitz-Eustace seduced by the religious pretext unto rebellion and flying his countrey lost by attaindour under Queene Elizabeth The families here remaining besides the Giraldines that be of higher birth above others fetch their descent also out of England namely the Ougans De-la Hides Ailmers Washes Boisels Whites Suttons c. As for the Giants dance which they talke of that Merlin by art magick translated out of this territorie unto Salisbury plaine as also of that most bloody battell which shall be one day betweene the English and the Irish at Molleaghmast I willingly leave unto the credulous lovers of fabulous antiquity and the vaine beleevers of prophesies For my purpose is not to give fond tales the telling These bee the midland counties of Leinster now are we to goe unto those by the sea side THE COUNTY OF WEISFORD BEneath that mouth at which Barrow Neore and Shoure the sister-like rivers having embraced one another and joyned hands are laid up in the Ocean there sheweth it selfe Eastward in a Promontorie where the shore fetcheth a compasse round the County of Weisford or Wexford In Irish County Reogh where Ptolomee in
Toam and the neighbour inhabitants repaire for Ecclesiasticall jurisdiction to the Bishop of Killaley in the Barony of Tir-Auley In this Maio if I deceive not my selfe Colman a Bishop of Ireland built as Bede writeth a Monastery for thirty men or thereabout of the English Nation trained in the profession of the Monasticall life whom he brought out of England into Ireland But heare what Bede saith Colman found a place in the Isle of Ireland meet for building of a Monastery named in the old Scottish tongue Magio And he bought a part of it which was not much of the Earle unto whose possession it belonged to found a Monastery therein but with this condition annexed unto the sale that the Monks restant there should pray unto the Lord for him also that permitted them to have the place Now when hee had straightwaies erected this Monastery with the helpe of the said Earle and all the neighbour inhabitants hee placed the Englishmen there leaving the Scots behinde in the Isle Bouind Which very Monastery is inhabited at this day by Englishmen for the same it is which now of a small one grown to be great is usually termed In Mago And having now this good while turned all to better orders it conteineth a notable covent of Monkes who being assembled there together out of the Province of England according to the example of the reverend fathers under Regularity and a Canonicall Abbat live in great continency and sincerity with the labour of their owne hands About the yeere of our Lord 1115. this monasterie was re-edified and flourished in King Johns time who by his Patent confirmed many farmes and faire lands unto it Neither verily is there any other place that I can finde memorable unlesse it be Logh-Mesk a good large and fishfull Lake in two small Islands whereof stand sure forts that belonged to the familie of Burke This county is not so famous for the townes therein as the Inhabitants who are either of the Irish race as O-Mayles Ioies and Mac-vadus or of the Scotish out of the Islands Hebrides and out of the sept of Donell whereupon they bee called Clan-Donells and Galloglasses and as it were doughty mercinary souldiors who fight with two edged axes and be armed with habergeons or coates of maile procured in times past to come hither by the rebels and endowed here with lands or else of English blood as the said Burkes Iordans descended from one Iordan of Excester Nangles of Castlough Prendergest of Clan-Moris But the most puissant be those Burkes who after a sort are beholden both for their first beginning and also for their glory unto William a younger brother of Walter de Burgo or Burk of Ulster This William highly renowned for his militarie prowesse being led away prisoner into Scotland and leaving his wife behind him for an hostage when he was restored to his owne home by his manhood recovered Conaught out of which in his absence all the English had been expelled by Phelim O Conor having slaine in the field the said Phelim O Conor Mac Dermond Tego and Kelly and was himselfe at last in revenge killed by Cormac Mac-Dermond His grandson Thomas by his son Edmund sirnamed Albanach because he was borne in Scotland when he saw the goodly and rich inheritance of his owne familie translated by a female unto Leonell Duke of Clarence tooke it to the heart and therefore raising a power of lewd lawlesse and desperate persons who will be never wanting in Ireland nor else where by force and wrong seized the Patrimony of the Earles of Ulster in this County into his owne hands and after the name of that Grandfather of his whose glorious fame and gracious authority was then fresh in remembrance called himselfe Mac-William that is the sonne of William And his posterity under that name and title usurped a tyrannie in these parts raging upon themselves other whiles with mutuall injuries and oppressing the poore people a long time with extorting pilling and spoyling insomuch as they left scarce one village or house in the Country unrazed and unrifled This powerfull violence of theirs Sir Richard Bingham principall Commissioner or Governour of Conaght a man resolute severe and valiant fit for such a fierce and fell Province thought not to bee endured For he well understood being prudent and politicke that these injust oppressions pollings and pillings were the principall causes of the rebellions of barbarousnesse and base beggery of Ireland yea and that they drew the people away from their due obedience and allegeance to their Prince so as that they would acknowledge no other soveraigne than their owne Lords and Captaines he therefore to establish what hee might the royall power and authority there and to overthrow this tyrannicall government of this Mac-William and of others getting head employed with all diligence his whole care and cogitations to the uttermost and albeit he had from time to time many imputations suggestions and complaints eagerly urged upon him both before Queene Elizabeth and also the Lord Deputy yet proceeded hee in his purpose Contrariwise those of the family of Burke their followers and dependants that refused to obey the lawes tooke armes and drew to band and side with them the Septs of the Clan-Donells Ioies and others who distrusted themselves and their owne power whom Bingham the Governour soone scattered and having forced their forts drave them into woods and lurking hooles untill the Lord Deputy taking pittie of them upon their humble supplication commanded by his Missives that they should bee received upon termes of peace But they who by warre had troubled the peace and knowing not how to lay downe warre for sweetnesse of peace were no sooner relieved and raised as it were from death but they tooke armes againe entred afresh into actuall rebellion drave booties every where and made foule uprores in all places crying out That they would set up their Mac-William or else send for one out of Spaine That they would not admit a Sheriffe nor yeeld obedience to lawes And herewith they closely procured the Scottish Ilanders from out of the Hebrides to come over for to aide them promising them faire lands and possessions whereupon the Lord Deputy commanded the Governour to represse and bridle this their excessive and malapert insolence He then immediately when they rejected all equall and indifferent conditions offered unto them assembled an army and pursued them so hotly through the woods and forests that after six or seven weeks being grievously hunger-bitten they most humbly submitted themselves At which very time the auxiliary forces of the Scots aforesaid came seeking through desert by-waies and untravelled out waies as closely as they could to come into the county of Maio but the Governour with continuall journies affronted them by night and day so neere and followed upon them so hard that in the end he intercepted them at Ardnary valiantly giving the charge put them to flight
after he had killed and drowned in the river Moin about three thousand of them A happy victory this was and of great consequence both for the present future times whereby the rebellion together with the title of Mac-William was extinguished Donell Gormy and Alexander Carrough the sons of Iames Mac-Conel and those Ilanders who most of all had plagued Ireland were slaine These occurrents have I briefly set down out of my Annales impertinent though they be to my intended purpose which for their worthinesse ought more at large to be penned by some Historiographer THE COUNTY OF SLEGO SOmewhat higher lieth the county of Slego a plenteous and battle country for feeding and raising of cattell wholly also coasting upon the sea Betweene it and Ulster Northward runneth the river TROBIS which Ptolomee calleth RAVIUS as an out-let of the Lake Erne it is severed from the neighbour counties Le Trim and Roscoman by the comberous Curlew hills and the river Suc divideth it in twaine In some place hereabout Ptolomee setteth the city NAGNATA but what city it was it passeth my wit to find out He hath placed also the river LIBNIUS in this tract which through the retchlesnesse of the transcribers I reduced even now from out of exile to Dublin his owne city But that place which Ptolomee here pointeth out is now called THE BAY OF SLEGO a rode full of harbours under Slego the principall place of this county where standeth a castle the seat at this day of the Sept of O-Conor who of it take their addition of Slego and fetch their pedegree as they say themselves from that Rotherick O-Conor Dun who being a great man and of much puissance bare himselfe as Monarch of Ireland what time as the English entred first into Ireland hardly yeelded himselfe unto King Henry the second although in words he professed submission and oftentimes raising tumults as an author without name of that age writeth used ever and anon to cry out and say That these words following of Adrian the Pope in his Patent or Charter made unto the King of England were prejudiciall unto him Enter you into that Iland and execute whatsoever shall concerne the glory of God and the salvation of that land and let the people of the said land receive you and honour you as their Lord untill such time as Pope Alexander the third by a new Bull or Charter of his had confirmed in like manner unto the Kings of England their right to Ireland for then became he more tractable and condescended unto more equall conditions as I shall shew anon After these O Conors the greatest men of name in this territory are O Don O Haris O Ghar and Mac-Donagh THE COUNTY OF LE-TRIM THe County of Slego Eastward is enclosed with Breany the possession of the ancient family of O-Rorck which drew their descent from Rotherick Monarch of Ireland whom they by contraction which they take pleasure in terme Rorck untill that Brien O Rorck Lord of Breany and Minterolise fed with vaine hopes by Pope Sixtus Quintus and the King of Spaine had persidiously cast off his allegeance to Queene Elizabeth and taken armes who being streightwaies chased into Scotland and sent backe into England suffered for his inconsiderate rashnesse due punishment upon the gallowes and his lands were adjudged to the Crown This Breany by Iohn Perot Lord Deputie was made a county and of the chiefe towne called Le-Trim which riseth up throughout with hills full of ranke grasse yet not so as that it should be altogether true which Solinus reporteth of Ireland namely that it is so full of forage that unlesse cattell were kept other whiles from grasing their fulnesse would endanger them And so much cattell it feedeth that within the little circuit which it hath it may reckon at one time above a hundred and twenty thousand head of beasts In this standeth Achonry Bishopricke united now to the See of Elphin And Shannon the Soveraigne of all rivers in Ireland hath here his spring-head which being one while narrower and another while broader with divers turning and winding reaches that he makes washeth and watereth of either side as I have said many a country The principall families be O Rorck O Murreies Mac Lochleims Mac Glanchies and Mac Granelles all meere and stark Irish. Whereas Iohn Burgh sonne to Richard the Earle of Clan-Ricards was created by Queene Elizabeth Baron Le-Trim who was afterward slaine by his envious concurrents I cannot say whether he had that title of this Le-Trim or of some other place in this kingdome THE COUNTY OF ROSCOMAN UNder the county of Letrim Southward lieth ROSCOMAN ordained to be a county by Henry Sidney Lord Deputy lying out a good length but narrow closed up between the two rivers Suc Westward and Shanon Eastward and on the North side bounded with Curlew mountaines A territory it is for the most part plaine fruitfull feeding many herds of cattell and with meane husbandry and tillage yeeldeth plenty of corne Where it beareth Northward the steepe mountaines of Curlew perke up aloft and those impassable untill by the carefull industry of George Bingham there was a way cut out which Curlews not long since became more notorious for the disastrous death of Sir Coniers Clifford and by his default for the slaughter with him of most valiant and experienced souldiers In this county are reckoned foure Baronies Under Curlew hills by the river Shanon the Baronie of Boyle first commeth in view where was founded in times past a famous Abbey in the yeere 1152. together with the Abbey of Beatitude and Mac Dermot ruleth all there as Lord then by the river Suc lieth the Baronie Balin Tober where O Conor Dun is of the greatest command and upon it joineth Elphen an Episcopall See Somewhat lower is Roscoman the Baronie of O Conor Roo that is Conor the red wherein is seated the chiefe towne of the whole countie sensed in times past with a castle by Robert Ufford Lord Justice of Ireland but all the houses are mean and thatched and more Southward Athlone the Baronie of the O Kellies so named of the head towne which hath a castle and ward in it also a most beautifull bridge of hewen stone which to the great terrour of seditious rebels Queen Elizabeth in our memory appointing Henry Sidney Lord Deputy of Ireland overseer thereof caused to be built with a purpose to constitute in that place as most fit of all others in Ireland to represse seditions the seat of residence for the Lords Deputies and thus much for the Counties of Conaght LORDS OF CONAGHT AS for the Lords of Conaght wee finde it recorded in the Irish histories that Turlogh O Mor O Conor ruled absolutely in old time this countrey and divided it wholly betweene his two sonnes Cahel and Brien But at the Englishmens first arrivall into Ireland Rothericke bare rule who stiled himselfe Monarch of Ireland yet being put in feare with
the great preparation for the English warre hanging so neere over his head he betooke himselfe into the protection of King Henry the second without trying the hazzard of battell But when as forthwith he brake his allegeance and revolted Miles Cogan was the first Englishman that gave the attempt upon Conaght yet sped hee not in his enterprise Howbeit that King of Conaght abovesaid was driven to this exigent as to acknowledge himselfe the King of Englands Liegeman to serve him faithfully as his man and to pay unto him yeerely of every tenth beast one hide mercateable c. And King John granted that the third part of Conaght should remaine unto him still to bee held hereditarily for an hundred Markes But William Fitz-Adelme whose posterity are called in Latin de Burgo and Burke or Bourke in Irish Robert Muscegros Gilbert Clare Earle of Gloster and William de Birmingham were the first English that fully subdued this country and laboured to bring it to civill government And William Bourk and his lineall posterity being called Lords of all Conaght governed that province together with Ulster for a long time in great peace and tranquility yea and raised thereout rich revenues untill the onely daughter of William Burke sole heire in grosse of Conaght and Ulster both was matched in marriage with Leonell Duke of Clarence King Edward the thirds sonne But when as he abode for the most part in England and the Mortimers his heires and successours looked but negligently to their patrimony and inheritance in Ireland the Bourkes there allies whom they had appointed as overseers of their lands taking the advantage of their Lords absence and presuming upon the troubles in England despising the authority of lawes entring into alliance with the Irish and contracting marriage with them seized upon all Conaght to their owne behoofe and degenerating by little and little have laid downe English civility and taken up Irish behaviour Whereof some who fetched their pedegree from Richard Burke were called Clan-Ricard others Mac William Oughter that is The upper others Mac William Eughter that is The lower even as they who in the countie of Maio were of greatest power and authority affected to be tearmed simply Mac-William as being a name full of honour glory and authority because they descended from William de Burgo or Burke whom I mentioned erewhile under countenance of which name they for a long time tyrannized over the poore inhabitants with most grievous exactions ULTONIA OR ULSTER ALL the land beyond the mouth of the river Boyn Meath the County Longford and the mouth of the river Ravie that stretcheth Northward is counted the fifth part of Ireland called in Latin Ultonia and Ulidia in English Ulster in Irish Cui Guilly that is The Province Guilly and of our Welsh Britans Ultw Which Province was wholly inhabited in Ptolomees time by the VOLUNTII DARNI ROBOGDII and ERDINI A large country bespred with many and those very large loghes and lakes shaded with many and thicke woods in some places fruitfull in others barren howbeit fresh and green to see to in every place and replenished with cattell But as the countrey for want of manuring is growne to be rough so the naturall dispositions of the people wanting civill discipline are become most wild and barbarous Yet to the end that they might be kept within the bounds of their duty who were wont to breake in sunder all bands of equity of honesty and of duty the hether part of it was in times past divided into three counties Louth Downe and Antrim and now the rest is laid out into seven new counties that is to say Cavon Fermanagh Monaghan Armagh Colran Tir-Oen and Donegall or Tir-Conell by the provident care of Sir Iohn Perot L. Deputy who being notable and worthy man well acquainted with the humours and haughty spirits of the Province foreseeing that no policy would serve better to appease the tumults of Ireland than to reduce these parts of Ulster into order and to keepe them downe going thither in a dangerous and ticklish time when the King of Spaine hovered and gaped both for Ireland and England with his gravitie and authority whiles by barring all wrongs hee did cut off the causes and quarrells of warre brought all the Potentates or Captaines of Ulster to this passe that willingly they suffered their Seigniories to bee divided into Counties and Sheriffes to bee appointed for the government thereof But he being within a while after recalled home and climbing still higher unto honours the heavie displeasure and envie of some whom hee was not able to counterpoise and his owne lavish tongue together for unadvisedly he had let flye somewhat against the Princes Majestie which to impaire in word is a capitall matter plunged him headlong ere he was aware upon his owne destruction as I have declared elsewhere more amply THE COUNTIE OF LOUTH THe county of LOUTH in ancient bookes written Luva and Luda called in the Irish tongue Iriel or Uriel if that be not rather a part of this territory situate beyond Meth and the mouth of the river Boyn turning full upon the Irish sea runneth out with a shore much winding into the North the soile whereof is so full of forage and so fruitfull that it soone answereth and recompenseth the husband mans toile and charges Neere unto Boynes mouth is seated Drogheda or Droghda in English Tredagh a fine towne well peopled and frequented so called of the bridge and divided by the river Boyne running through it Unto which King Edward the second for Theobald Verdons sake granted licence for a mercate and Faire the Kings confirmed many and great liberties and among other a Mint Neere unto this standeth Mellifont Abbey founded by Donald a King of Uriel and much praised by Saint Bernard which Queene Elizabeth when as the religious Monkes were before thrust out gave unto Sir Edward More of Kent for his good deserts both at home and abroad in the warres Ardeth seven miles from hence is a dry in-land towne well knowne and above it Dundalk with a commodious haven and in times past strongly walled which Edward Brus brother to the King of Scots who had proclaimed himselfe King of Ireland burnt but hee within a while after was with eight thousand two hundred of his men slaine neere thereabout And in our remembrance Shan O Neale laied siege unto it but straightwaies hee was forced with shame enough to dislodge Eight miles from hence standeth Carlingford a port also of good request and resort neither be there to my knowledge any other places in this county worth the naming This Louth had for Earle Sir Iohn Birmingham an Englishman whom in reward of his martiall valour when hee had discomfited and in a pitcht field slaine that Edward Brus who assuming the title of King of Ireland for a time had made soule work with fire and sword in Ireland King Edward the second advanced to the
the mendicant Friers as detesting in Christians such voluntary begging Neere to Armach upon a rising hill remain the reliques of an old castle Owen-Maugh they call it which was as they say the ancient habitation of the Kings of Ulster More East glideth the Black-water in the Irish tongue More that is Great which is the limit betweene this shire and Tir-Oen whereof I am to speak in due place In this country and about it Mac-Genis O Hanlan O Hagan and many of the sept of O-Neal assuming unto them sundry additions and by-names carry all the sway after a sort and over-rule the rest THE COUNTY OF DOWNE EAstward now followeth the county of DOWNE and that very large and fertile in soile stretched out even as farre as to the Irish sea reaching on the North side to the Lake Eaugh by a new name called Logh Sidney and on the South to the county of Louth from which the river Newry severeth it Upon this river in the very first entrance into this shire within our remembrance Sir Nicolas Bagnall Mareschall of Ireland who by his conduct atchieved here divers exploits and reduced the country to more civility built and fortified a towne of the same name Hard by it the river called Banthelesse issuing out of the desert mountaines of Mourne passeth through the country of Eaugh which belongeth to the family of Mac Gynnis Betweene whom and the O Neals who tyrannized in Ulster there fell in times past a controversie whether they were vassals to O Neal and whether they should find their followers and souldiers victuals c. this kind of service they call Bonoghty This hath unto it an Episcopall See at Dromore above which at the edge of Logh Eaugh are the tracts of Kilwlto and Kilwarny much encombred with woods and bogges These lye inwardly but by the maritime coast the sea doth so wind it selfe in and with sundry Creeks and Bayes encroach within the land yea and the Logh and Lake dilateth it selfe beside Dyffrin a valley full of woods the inheritance in old time of the Mandevils afterwards of the Whites in such sort that it maketh two bilands Lecall Southward and Ardes Northward Lecall a rich and battle ground beareth out farthest into the East of any part of Ireland and is the utmost Promontory or cape thereof which the Mariners now terme Saint Iohns Foreland Ptolomee calleth it ISANIUM perhaps of the British word Isa which signifieth Lowest In the very streight whereof flourished DUNUM whereof Ptolomee also made mention though not in the right place now named Down a towne of very great antiquity and a Bishops See renowned by the tombe of Saint Patricke Saint Brigid and Saint Columb upon which was written this rude riming distichon Hi tres in Duno tumulo tumulantur in uno Brigida Patricius atque Columba pius At Doun these three lie buried in one tombe Brigid Patricke and that devout Columb Which monument of theirs as the bruit runneth was demolished by the Lord Leonard Grey Deputy under King Henrie the eighth and sure it is that when he was arraigned for misgoverning and condemned therefore to death among other imputations he was charged that he had profaned this Cathedrall Church of Saint Patricke But as touching the Sepulcher of Saint Patricke the religious Priests were at variance like as the Cities of Greece in times past strove about the native country of the Poet Homer These of Downe challenge it to themselves and that upon the authoritie of the verses aforesaid Those of Armagh put in their claime out of the words of Saint Bernard which erewhile I alledged The Monkes of Glastenbury in England averred it to be with them and that out of the old Records and Evidences of their Abbey and some Scots have likewise avouched that as he was borne neere unto Glasco so likewise he was enterred there at Kirk-Patrick Into this Down Sir Iohn Curcy that Martiall Englishman and for a Warrior extraordinarily devout to Godward after hee had brought this country in subjection unto him was the first that brought in the Benedictine Monkes and he translated the Monasterie of Cariche which Mac Neal Mac Eulef King of Ulster had founded in Erinaich neere unto S. Finins Fountaine into the Isle called after his name Ynis-Curcy and endowed the same with lands assigned for it For before time the Monkes of Ireland as those of ancient times in Egypt whose maner and order that devour man Congell that is by interpretation A faire pledge brought over into Ireland being wholly given to prayer earned for themselves and the poore their living with the labour of their own hands Howbeit these Monasticall orders and customes as all humane things continued not long when their maners and carriage grew to be worse and riches had by little and little polluted piety which as a mother had formerly bred them Robert Abbat of Molisime in Burgundie studied and endevoured earnestly in times past to reduce and set on foot againe the said ancient Discipline and perswaded his owne Disciples to live with their handy labour to leave Tithes and Oblations unto the Priests that served in the Diocesse to forbeare wearing of Breeches made of woven cloth or of leather But they labouring to the contrary refused flatly to goe from the customes observed in the Monasteries of the West parts of the world which were knowne for certaine to have been instituted and ordained by Saint Maure scholar to Saint Benet and by Saint Columban But I have digressed too farre now will I returne againe By the sea-side stand Arglas where Saint Patrick by report founded a Church and Strangford called in old time Strandford a safe harbour where the river Coyn with a great and violent streame breaketh into the Sea Neere unto which in the Biland Lecale Queene Mary in her great bounty unto Noblemen liberally gave lands unto the Earle of Kildare And here of the English race the Russells Audleys Whites and the Bagnells who came thither last stoutly defend among the wild and fierce Irish not without danger what they and their ancestours won in these parts Ardes the other Biland called The Andes lieth over against to the North severed with a small chanell out of the Logh-Coin which on the West side encloseth it like as the sea on the East side and the Bay of Knoc-Fergus on the North. You may resemble it to the bent of the arme which by a very narrow Isthim or necke of land groweth to the rest of the Iland like as an arme to the shoulder The soile is every where passing good and bountifull but only in the mids where lieth out for twelve miles or thereabout in length a moist flat and boggy plaine The shore is sufficiently bespred with small villages and in times past had a most renowned Monasterie at the Bay of Knoc-Fergus of the same institution order and name as was that right ancient and famous Abbey in England neere unto Chester I
next County in order unto Louth Northward is that of ANTRIM so called of Antrim a base townelet of small reckoning at all had it not imparted the name unto the whole countrey which lieth betweene the Bay of Knoc-Fergus Logh Eaugh and the river Ban. This Bay of Knoc-Fergus which Ptolomee tearmeth VINDERIUS took name of a towne situate upon it which the English call Knoc-Fergus the Irish Carig-Fergus that is the Rock of Fergus of that most renowned Fergus who first brought the Scottish out of Ireland into Britaine there drowned This is well inhabited and more frequented than the rest in this coast by reason of the commodious haven although the blockhouses thereto be unfinished having a fortresse pitched upon an high rocke a ward of garrison souldiers to keepe the countrey in awe and good order with an ancient palace converted now into Magazin Hard by it lieth the Nether Clane-Boy which also was the habitation of O-Neales notable for the death of that most lend rebell Shan or Iohn O-Neal who after many robberies and sacriledges committed being in one or two skirmishes under the leading of Sir Henry Sidney Lord Deputy vanquished and weakened was brought to that exigent that hee was resolved to goe unto the Deputy with an halter about his neck and submissely to crave pardon but being perswaded by his Scribe to seeke first for aide of certaine Scots of the Islands who under the conduct of Alexander Oge had encamped themselves here and preyed in the countrey hee came unto them who gave him friendly entertainment and presently massacred him and all his company in revenge of their kinsfolke whom hee had before slaine By whose death the warre being ended and himselfe with all those that went with him into the field attainted Queene Elizabeth granted this Claneboy unto Walter D' Eureux Earle of Essex who crossed over the seas hither and I wot not whether under a goodly colour of honour for chosen he was Governour of Ulster and Mareschal of Ireland hee was by the politicke practice of some Courtiers finely packed away into a Country alwaies rebellious and untamed But whiles with the expence of a mighty masse of money hee went about to reduce it to good order after hee had beene crossed and tossed with many troubles both at home and abroad in the warres hee was by untimely death taken out of this world leaving unto all good men a wonderfull misse of himselfe and this Country unto the O-Neales and Brian Carragh of the Mac-Conells race who since that time have gone together by the eares and committed many murders one upon another about the soveraignty of this Seigniory Neere unto Knoc-Fergus there is a By-land with a narrow necke as it were annexed to the maine which notwithstanding is called the Isle of Magie taking up foure miles in length and one in bredth wherein as some suppose flourished that Monasterie of Magio so highly praised by Bede whereof I have made mention before in the County of Majo Then the Glinnes that is the Valleys begin at Older-Fleet a bad road for ships and run out a great length upon the sea This country belonged in ancient times to the Bissets Noblemen of Scotland who when upon private grudges and quarrels they had made away Patricke Earle of Athol were banished hither and through the beneficiall favour of Henry the Third King of England received Lands here For John Bisset who died in the beginning of Edward the First his reigne had large possessions heere and under King Edward the Second Hugh Bisset for rebellion lost some of them But in our fathers daies the Highland Irish Scots out of Cantire and the Hebrides under the leading of James Mac-Conell Lord of Cantire in Scotland made an entry upon the same and he laying claime thereto challenged it as descended from the Bissets Howbeit Shan O-Neale having slaine their Captaine easily chased them away Yet returned they and in this tract committed continually robberies and outrages in cruell manner yea and maintained seditious commotions untill that even of late Sir John Perot Lord Deputy of Ireland brought first Donell Goran who together with his brother Alexander was slaine by Sr. Richard Bingham in Conaght and afterward Agnus Mac-Conel the sonnes of James Mac-Conel to that passe that they betooke themselves to the Queene of Englands protection and upon their humble suite received at her hands this county to bee held of her by service under certaine conditions namely to beare armes within Ireland under none other but the Kings of England and to pay yeerely a certain number of cowes and hawkes c. Above this as farre as to the river Bann all the tract is called Rowte the seat of the Mac-Guillies a familie of good reputation in their county which notwithstanding the violence of the Islander Scots and their continuall depredations hath driven them into a narrow corner For Surley Boy that is Charles the Yellow brother unto James Mac-Conel who possessed himselfe of the Glines became also in some sort Lord hereof untill that Sir John Perot Lord Deputy having won Donluse Castle a very strong pile seated upon a rocke that hangeth over the sea and severed from the Land with a deepe ditch dispossessed him and all his Which for all that hee recovered the next yeere following by treason after he had slaine Carie the Captaine thereof who manfully defended himselfe But the Lord Deputy sending against him Captaine Meriman an approved warrior who slew the two sonnes of James Mac-Conell and Alexander this Surley Boys son so coursed him from place to place and drave away his cattell the onely riches he had for hee was able to number of his owne stocke 50000. cowes so that Surley Boy rendred Donluse came to Dublin and in the Cathedrall Church openly made his submission exhibited a supplication craving mercy and afterwards being admitted into the Lord Deputies Great Chamber so soone as he saw the Picture of Queene Elizabeth upon a table once or twice flung away his sword fell downe at her feet and devoted himselfe unto her Majesty Whereupon being received into favour and ranged among the subjects of Ireland he abjured and renounced openly in the Courts of Chancery and Kings Bench all service and allegeance to any forraine Kings whatsoever and he had given unto him by the bounteous liberality of Queene Elizabeth foure territories Toughes they call them lying from the river Boys unto the Bay Don severig Loghill and Balla-monyn with the Constableship of Donluse Castle to him and the heires males of his body to hold of the Kings of England with these conditions That neither hee nor his nor yet his posterity serve in the warres under any forraine Prince without Licence That they keepe their people from all depredations That they furnish and finde twelve horsemen and fortie footmen at their owne charges for fortie daies in time of warre and present unto the Kings of England a
certaine number of cowes and hawkes yeerely c. THE COUNTIE OF COLRAN BEyond the Glynnes West standeth Krine which now they call the county COLRAN of the principall towne therein It lieth between the river Ban and Lough-foile and confineth South upon the county of Tir-Oen This Ban a passing faire river as Giraldus saith which the name also witnesseth rising out of the mountaines of Mourn in the county of Downe carrieth himselfe and his name into Lough Eaugh or Lough-Sidney a large Lake which name for all that after thirty miles or thereabout for of so great length that Lake is esteemed to be at his going forth in the end he resumeth againe at Tome castle and being beset and shadowed along the sides with woods by Glancolkein where by reason of thick woods and unpassable bogges there is the safest place of refuge for the Scottish Ilanders and the rebels and which the English felt who pursued Surley Boy whiles hee lurked here carrying a proud streame entreth into the sea breeding Salmons in abundance above any other river in all Europe because as some think it passeth all the rest for cleerenesse in the which kinde of water Salmons take speciall delight In this part the O Cahans were of greatest authoritie the principall person of which family O Cahan is thought to be one of the greatest of those Potentates or Uraights as they terme them that ought service unto O Neal the Tyrant of Ulster as who in that barbarous election of O Neal which with as barbarous ceremonies is solemnized in the open aire upon an high hill performeth this honourable service forsooth as to fling a shooe over the head of the elected O Neal. Howbeit he is not of power sufficient to restrain the Scottish Ilanders who to save charges at home every yeere in Summer time flocke hither out of those hungry and barren Ilands where is nothing but beggery to get their living ready upon every occasion and opportunity to maintain rebellions insomuch as provided it hath been by law under paine of high treason that no person call them into Ireland nor give them lodging or entertainment But this county with other confining is escheated to the King who gratiously purposing a civill plantation of those unreformed and waste parts is pleased to distribute the said lands to his civill subjects and the city of London hath undertaken to plant Colonies here THE COUNTIE OF TIR-OEN BEneath Colran lieth Southward the county of TIR-OEN in old books named also Tir-Eogain that is if a man interpret it The land of Eugenius which name the Irish have contracted into Eogain and Oen. This is altogether upland from the sea divided towards the sunnes setting by the river Liffer from Tir-Conell toward the rising with the Logh Eaugh from the county of Antrim and Southward with the Blackwater which in Irish they call Aven More that is The great water from the county of Armagh A country though rough and rugged yet fruitfull and very large as which lieth out threescore miles in length and thirty in bredth divided by the mountaines called Sliew Gallen into the Upper Tir-Oen Northward and the Nether Southward In it are first Cloghar a Bishopricke and that a slender one then Dunganon the chiefe habitation of the Earles which through the favour of King Henry the eighth gave the title of Baron unto Matthew sonne to the first Earle of Tir-Oen And verily this is an house fairer built than commonly they bee in this county but hath beene oftentimes by the Lords themselves defaced with fire because it should not be burnt by the enemy also Ublogahell where O-Neal that most proudly ruleth and oppresseth Ulster was wont to be inaugurated after that barbarous manner and tradition of the countrey and the fort at Black-water on the river More which hath sustained the variable changes and chances of warre whiles there was no other way into this countrey being the place of refuge for the rebels but now it is neglect ever since there was found another Ford more below at which on both sides of the river Charles Lord Mount-joy Deputy erected new Sconces when with hot warre hee pursued the rebels in these parts Who likewise at the same time raised another garrison for t called by his owne name Mont-joy at the Lake Eaugh Logh Sidney in honour of Henry Sidney souldiers now terme it which encloseth the West side of this shire and is made or much encreased by the river Bann as I have said Surely this is a goodly and beautifull Lake passing fishfull and very large as stretching out thirty miles or thereabout as the Poet saith Dulci mentitur Nâ—rea fluctu Fresh water though it bee A sea folke thinke they see And considering the variety of shew upon the bankes the shady groves the meadowes alwaies greene the fertile corne fields if they be well manured the bending and hanging hills and the rills running into it fashioned and shaped for pleasure and profit even by Nature her selfe who seemeth as it were to be very angry with the inhabitants there by for suffering all to grow wild and barbarous through their lazie lithernesse In the upper Tir-Oen stands Straban a Castle well knowne wherein dwelt in our daies Turlogh Leinigh of the sept of O-Neals who after the death of Shan O-Neal as I shall shew anon by election of the people attained to the dignity of O-Neal also some other Piles and fortresses of smaller reckoning the which like as else where in this Iland be no more but towers with narrow loope-holes rather than windowes unto which adjoine Hauls made of turfes and roofed over head with thatch having unto them belonging large Courts or yards fensed round about with ditches and hedges of rough bushes for defence of their cattell against Cow-stealers But if this county have any name or glory at all it is wholly from the Lords thereof who have ruled here as Kings or Tyrants rather of whom there were two Earles of Tir-Oen namely Con O-Neale and Hugh his nephew by his son Matthew But of these I will speake more at large by and by when I am to treat of the Earles and Lords of Ulster THE COUNTIE OF DONEGALL OR TIR-CONELL ALL that remaineth now behind in Ulster toward the North and South was possessed in ancient times by the ROBOGDII and VENNICNII but at this day it is called the County of DONEGALL or TIR-CONELL that is as some interpret it The land of Cornelius or as others The Land of Conall and in truth Marianus plainly nameth it Conallea The county is all in a maner champian and full of havens as bounded with the sea on the North and West sides beating upon it and dis-joined on the East from Tir-Oen with the river Liffer and from Conaght with the Lake Erne Liffer neere unto his spring head enlargeth his stream and spreadeth abroad into a Lake wherein appeareth above the water an Island and in
either by dint of sword conquered or by surrender gat the whole into his owne hands and was the first that was stiled Earle of Ulster but when his great exploits and fortunate archievements had wrought him such envie that through his owne vertues and other mens vices he was banished out of the Realme Hugh Lacy the second sonne of Hugh Lacy Lord of Meth who had commandement to pursue him by force and armes was by King John appointed his successour being created Earle of Ulster by the sword of which honour notwithstanding the same King afterward deprived him for his tumultuous insolency and hee was in the end received into favour againe But for the sounder testimony hereof it were good to exemplifie the same word for word out of the records of Ireland Hugh de Lacy sometime Earle of Ulster held all Ulster exempt and separate from all other counties whatsoever of the Kings of England in chiefe by service of three Knights so often as the Kings service was proclaimed and be held all Pleas in his owne Court that pertaine to a Iustice and Sheriffe and held a Court of Chancery of his own c. And afterward all Ulster came into the hands of our Soveraigne Lord K. Iohn by the forfeiture of the foresaid Hugh unto whom after that K. Henry the third demised it for terme of the said Hughs life And when Hugh was deceased Walter de Burgo did that service unto Lord Edward K. Henries son Lord of Ireland before he was King And the same Lord Edward feoffed the aforesaid Walter in the said land of Ulster to have and to hold unto the same Walter and to his heires by the service aforesaid as freely and wholly as the above named Hugh de Lacy held it excepting the advowsons of Cathedrall Churches and the demesne of the same also the Pleas of the Crowne to wit Rape Forstall Firing and Treasure Trouve which our soveraigne Lord K. Edward retained to himselfe and his heires This Walter de Burgo who was Lord of Conaght and Earle of Ulster begat of the only daughter of Hugh de Lacy Richard Earle of Ulster who after hee had endured many troubles and calamities died in the yeere 1326. Richard had issue Iohn de Burgo who departed this life before his father having begotten upon Elizabeth sister and one of the heires of Gilbert Clare Earle of Glocester William who succeeded after his grandfather This William being slain by his own men when he was young left behind him a little daughter his only child who being married unto Leonell Duke of Clarence bare one daughter likewise the wife of Edmund Mortimer Earle of March by whom the Earledome of Ulster and Seigniory of Conaght came unto the Mortimers and from them together with the kingdome of England unto the house of Yorke and afterward Edward the fourth King of England adjoined it unto the Kings Domaine or Crowne land And when as at the same time England was divided into sides and factions whiles the civill warre grew hot and the English that abode here returned out of Ulster into England to follow the factions O-Neal and others of Irish blood seized these countries into their own hands and brought them to such wildnesse and savage barbarisme as it exceeded In so much as this province which in times past paied a mighty masse of money unto their Earles scarcely ever since yeelded any coin at all unto the Kings of England And verily in no one thing whatsoever pardon this my over-boldnesse have the Kings of England beene more defective in piety and policie than that they have for these so many ages seen so slightly to this Province yea and to all Ireland in the propagation of religion establishing the weale publike and reducing the life of the inhabitants to civility whether it was for carelesse neglect sparing or a fore-cast of dammage or some reason of state I am not able to say But that the same may be no longer thus neglected it seemeth of it selfe by good right to importune most earnestly being an Iland so great so neere a neigbour so fruitfull in soile so rich in pastures more than credible beset with so many woods enriched with so many mineralls if they were searched watered with so many rivers environed with so many havens lying so fit and commodious for failing into most wealthy countries and thereby like to bee for impost and custome very profitable and to conclude breeding and rearing men so abundantly as it doth who considering either their mindes or their bodies might be of singular emploiment for all duties and functions as well of warre as of peace if they were wrought and conformed to orderly civility I Intimated even now that I would speak touching the O-Neals who carried themselves as Lords of Ulster and I promised not long since a friend of mine that I would write of their rebellions raised in our age And verily I will performe my promise to his Manes whom whiles he lived I observed with all respect and being now in heaven I will not forget Thus much onely I will promise by way of Preface that I have compendiously collected these matters out of my Annales and here conjoined them which there are severed and divided according to their severall times and withall that whatsoever I shall write is not upon uncertaine rumours but gathered summarily from out oâ— their owne hand writings who managed those affaires and were present in the actions And this will I doe with so sincere an affection to the truth and so uncorrupt fidelity that I doubt not but I shall have thanks at their hands who love the truth and desire to understand the late affaires of Ireland and not incurre the blame of any unlesse they be such as having done ill take it not well if themselves be accordingly censured THE O-NEALES AND THEIR REBELLIONS IN OUR TIME TO say nothing of that GREAT NEALE who ruled by force and armes in Ulster and a great part of Ireland before the comming of Saint Patricke nor of those in the middle times who were but of meane note and memoriall to speake of this family after the arrivall of the English in Ireland lay close and obscure in remote lurking corners unlesse it were when Edward Brus brother to Robert King of Scotland named himselfe King of Ireland For then in a troublesome time Dovenald O-Neale started and rowsed himselfe out of his lurking holes and in his missives unto the Pope used this title in his stile Dovenald O-Neale King of Ulster and in right of inheritance the undoubted heire of all Ireland But after these stirres and troubles were laid this new King soone vanished away and Dovenalds posterity pluckt in their hornes and hid their heads untill that whiles England was all in a combustion kindled by the furious firebrands of civill warres betweene the houses of Yorke and Lancaster for the Imperiall Crowne those English that served and lived here abandoning Ulster and
Lismore sometime Legate of Ireland an earnest follower of the vertues which he had seen and heard of his devout father Saint Bernard and Pope Eugenius a venerable man with whom hee was in the Probatorie at Clarevall who also ordained him to be the Legate in Ireland after his obedience performed within the monasterie of Kyrieleyson happily departed to Christ. Jerusalem was taken with the Lords Crosse by the Soldan and the Saracens after many Christians slaine MCLXXXVII Upon the Calends or first day of July was the Abbey of Ynes in Ulster founded MCLXXXIX Henry Fitz-Empresse departed this life after whom succeeded his sonne Richard and is buried in Font-Ebrard In the same yeere was founded the Abbey de Colle victoriae that is of Cnokmoy MCXC. King Richard and King Philip make a voiage into the holy land MCXCI. In the Monasterie of Clarevall the translation of Malachie Bishop of Armagh was honourably celebrated MCXCII The Citie of Dublin was burnt MCXCIII Richard King of England in his return from the holy land was taken prisoner by the Duke of Austrich and he made an end by composition with the Emperour to pay for his ransome one hundred thousand markes and with the Empresse to pay thirtie thousand also with the foresaid Duke 20. thousand markes in regard of an obligation which he had made unto them for Henrie Duke of Saxonie Now hee remained in the Emperours prison a yeere sixe moneths and three daies For whose ransome all the Chalices in manner throughout England were sold. In the same yeere was founded the Abbey de Iugo Dei that is of Gods yoke MCXCIIII The reliques of S. Malachie Bishop of Clareval were brought into Ireland and with all honour that might be received in the Monasterie of Mellifont and the rest of the Monasteries of the Cistertian order MCXCV. Matthew Archbishop of Cassile Legate of Ireland John Archbishop of Dublin carried away the corps of Hugh Lacie the conquerour of Meth from the Irish and solemnely enterred it in the Monasterie of Blessednesse that is Becty But the head of the said Hugh was bestowed in the Monastery of Saint Thomas in Dublin MCXCVIII The order of Friers Preachers began in the parts about Tolouse by Dominicke the second MCXCIX Richard King of England died after whom succeeded John his brother who was Lord of Ireland and Earle of Mortaigne which John slew Arthur the lawfull heire sonne of Geffrey his whole brother And in this manner died Richard When K. Kichard besieged the Castle of Chaluz in little Britaine wounded he was to death with an arrow by one of those in the said Castle named Bertram Gurdon And when he dispaired of his life hee demised the Kingdome of England and all his other lands unto his brother to keep All his Jewels and one fourth part of his Treasure he gave unto his Nephew Otho and another fourth part of his Treasure he gave and commanded to be dealt among his servants and the poore Now when the said Bertram was apprehended and brought before the King the K. demanded of him in these termes what harme have I done thee that thou hast slaine me Unto whom without any manner of feare he answered thus Thou killedst my father and two of my brethren with thine owne hand and me also thou wouldest now have killed Take therefore what revenge so ever thou wilt of me for I passe not so thou maist be slaine that hast wrought so many mischiefes to the world Then the King forgave him his death and commanded that hee should be let goe at libertie and to give him besides one hundred shillings sterling But after the King was dead some of the Kings ministers slayed the said Beâ—â—â—am and hung him up And this King yeelded up his vitall breath the eighth day before the Ides of April which fell out to be the fourth day of the weeke before Palme-Sunday and the eleventh day after he was wounded and buried hee was at Foâ—â— Eâ—â—ard at the feet of his father Touching whose death a certaine versifier saith thus Istiâ— in morte perimit formica leonem Proh dolor in tanto funere mundus obit In this mans death as is well seene the Ant a Lion slaies And in so great a death alas the world doth end her daies The Corps of which King Richard is divided into three parts Whence was this verse made Viscera Carceolum Corpus Fons servat Ebrardi Et Cor Rhothomagum magne Richarde tuum Thy bowels onely Carceol keeps thy Corps Font-Everard And Roan hath keeping of thy heart O puissant Richard When King Richard was departed this life his brother John was girt with the sword of the Duchy of Normandie by the Archbishop of Rhoan the seventh day before the Calends of May next ensuing after the death of the aforesaid King which Archbishop did set upon the head of the said Duke a Circle flower with golden roses in the top round about Also upon the sixth day before the Calends of June hee was anointed and crowned King of England all the Lords and Nobles of England being present within the Church of Saint Peter in Westminster upon the day of the Lords Ascension and afterwards was John King of England called to a Parliament in France by the King of France to answer as touching the death of his Nephew Arthur and because he came not he deprived him of Normandy The same yeere was the Abbey of Commerer founded MCC Cathol Cronerg King of Conaght founder of the Monastery de Colle Victoriae that is of the Hill of Victorie is expelled out of Conaght The same yeere was founded the Monasterie de Voto that is Tynterne by William Marshall Earle Marshall and of Pembroch who was Lord of Leinster to wit of Weisford Ossory Caterlagh and Kildare in regard and right of his wife who espoused the daughter of Richard Earle of Stroghul and of Eve the daughter of Dermot-Mac-Murogh But because the foresaid William Earle Marshall was in exceeding great jeopardie both day and night in the sea he vowed a vow unto our Lord Jesus Christ that if he might be delivered from the tempest and come to land hee would make a Monasterie unto Christ and Marie his mother and so it came to passe when hee was come safe to Weisford he made I say the Monasterie of Tyntern according to his vow and called it the Monasterie De voto that is Of the vow In the same yeere was founded the Monasterie de Flumine Dei that is Of Gods river MCCII. Gathol Cronerg or Crorobdyr King of Conaght was set againe in his kingdome The same yeere is founded the house of Canons or Regular Priests of St. Marie by Sir Meiler Fitz-Henrie MCCIII The Abbey of S. Saviour that is Dowiâ—ky being founded was in this yeere and the next following built MCCIV. There was a field fought betweene John Curcie Earle of Ulster and Hugh Lacie at Doune in which battell many on both sides lost their lives But John Curcie had the upper
hand in fight Afterwards upon the sixth day of the weeke being Good-friday when the foresaid John was unarmed and went by way of pilgrimage bare foot and in his linnen vesture a visiting the Churches as the manner is treacherously he was taken prisoner by his owne people for a piece of money given in hand and for a greater reward to be given afterward for a recompence and so was delivered unto Hugh Lacie But hee bringeth him unto the King of England who gave unto Hugh Lacie the Earldom of Ulster and the Seigniorie of Conaught which belonged unto John Curcie Then Hugh Lacie being Earle rewarded all the foresaid Traitours that had betraied John Curcie and gave unto them gold and silver more or lesse but straightwayes hung up all the Traitours aforesaid and tooke away all their goods and so Hugh Lacie ruleth over all Ulster and John Curcie is condemned to perpetuall prison because he had before time beene a Rebell to John King of England and would not doe him homage and besides blamed him about the death of Arthur the rightfull heire unto the Crowne But whiles hee was in prison and in extreme povertie having but little allowance and the same course and simple for to eat and drinke he said O God wherefore dealest thou thus by me who have built and re-edified so many Monasteries for thee and thy Saints Now when he had many times wailed and made loud moane in this wise and therewith fell asleep the holy Trinitie appeared unto him saying Why hast thou cast me out of mine owne seat and out of the Church of Doun and placed there my S. Patrick the Patron of Ireland Because indeed John Curcie had expelled the Secular Canons or Priests out of the Cathedrall Church of Doune and brought the blacke Monks of Chester and placed them in the said Church And the holy Trinitie stood there in a stately shrine or seat and John himselfe tooke it downe out of the Church and ordained a Chappell for that Image and in the great Church set up the image of S. Patrick which displeased the most High God therefore thus said God Know thou well that thou shalt never enter into thy Seigniorie in Ireland Howbeit in regard of other good deeds that thou hast done thou shalt with honour be delivered forth of prison which also came to passe And now by this time there arose a contention betweene John King of England and the King of France about a Seigniory and certain Castles and this suit or controversie still depending the King of France offered unto him a Giant or Champion to fight for his right Then the King of England called to remembrance his most valiant Knight John Curcie whom upon the information of others he had before cast into prison The King therefore sent for John Curcie and asked him if he were able to help and stand him in stead in a combat then John answered and said I will not fight for thee but for the right of the Kingdome for which afterward hee undertooke to doe his endeavour in single fight and so refreshed himselfe with meat drink and bathing and tooke the vertue of his owne fortitude and strength and a day was appointed betweene these Giants or Champions namely betweene John Curcie and the other But when the Champion of France heard of his exceeding great feeding and of his strength hee refused the combat and then was the said Seigniorie given unto the King of England Then the King of France requested to see a stroake given by the hand of John Curcie and he set a strong and doughtie good morion full of maile upon a great blocke or log of wood and the foresaid John taking his skeine or sword and looking back round about him with a stern and grim countenance smote the moâ—ion through from the very crest downeward into the blocke and the sword stucke in the wood so fast that no other man but himselfe was able to plucke out the sword then John at the request of the Kings easily pluckt it forth And the Kings demanded of the foresaid John wherefore he looked behind him with so grim a countenance before he gave the stroke who answered that if he had failed in giving that stroke he would have slaine them all as well Kings as others And the Kings gave unto him great gifts yea and the King of England rendred unto him also his Seigniorie of Ulster But John Curcie attempted 15. times to saile over sea into Ireland but was alwaies in danger and the wind evermore against him wherefore hee waited a while among the Monkes of Chester At length he returned into France and there rested in the Lord. MCCV. The Abbey of Wetheney in the countie of Lymericke was founded by Theobald the sonne of Walter Butler Lord of Karryke MCCVI. The order of Friers Minors was begun neere the citie Assisa by Saint Francis MCCVIII William Breos is expelled out of England and commeth into Ireland England is interdicted for the tyrannie of King John of England Likewise a great overthrow and slaughter hapned at Thurles in Mounster committed upon the Lord Justice of Irelands men by Sir Geffery Mareys MCCX John King of England came into Ireland with a great fleet and a puissant armie and for that the sons of Hugh Lacie to wit the Lord Walter Lord of Meth and Hugh his brother exercised tyrannie upon the Commons and especially because they slew Sir John Curson Lord of Rathenny and Kilbarrocke for they heard that the foresaid John accused them unto the King therefore I say the King drave the foresaid sonnes of Hugh Lacie out of the land and they fled into France and served in the Monasterie of Saint Taurin as unknowne working about clay and bricke and sometime in gardens as Gardiners but at length they were knowne by the Abbat of the said Monasterie and the said Abbat entreated the King for them because he had baptized his sonnes and was Godsib unto him as a Godfather many times and Walter Lacie paid two thousand and five hundred markes and Hugh Lacie payed a great summe of money unto the King for his ransome and at the request of the said Abbat restored they were againe unto their former degree and Seigniorie And Walter Lacie brought with him John the sonne of Alured that is Fitz-Acory sonne to the foresaid Abbats whole brother and he made him Knight and gave unto him the Seigniorie of Dengle and many other Lordships Item hee brought Monkes with him out of the same Monasterie and gave unto them many fermes and the Cell called Fourie in regard of charitie thankfulnesse and counsell and Hugh Lacie Earle of Ulster made a Cell for Monkes and endowed them in Ulster in a place called ..... But John King of England having taken many pledges and hostages as well of English as of Irish and hanged a number of malefactours upon Jebbits and setled the State of the land returned into England the same yeere that he came
Sampford archbishop of Dublin In the same yeer the King of Hungary forsaking the Christian faith became an Apostata and when hee had called fraudulently as it were to a Parliament the mightier potentates of his land Miramomelius a puissant Saracene came upon them with 20000. souldiers carrying away with him the King with all the Christians there assembled on the even of Saint John Baptists day as the Christians therefore journied the weather that was cleere and faire turned to be cloudie and suddenly a tempest of haile killed many thousands of the Infidels together The Christians returned to their owne homes and the Apostata King alone went with the Saracenes The Hungarians therefore crowning his sonne King continued in the Catholike faith MCCLXXXIX Tripolis a famous citie was laied even with the ground not without much effusion of Christian blood and that by the Soldan of Babylon who commanded the images of the Saints to bee drawne and dragged at horses tailes in contempt of the name of Christ through the citie newly destroyed MCCXC Inclyta Stirps Regis Sponsis datur ordine legis In lawfull guise by hand and ring Espoused is the Kings off-spring The Lord Gilbert Clare tooke to wife the Ladie Joan a daughter of the Lord King Edward in the Abbey or Covent Church of Westminster and the marriage was solemnely celebrated in the Moneth of May and John the Duke of Brabant his sonne married Margaret the said Kings daughter also in the Church aforesaid in the moneth of July The same yeere the Lord William Vescie was made Justice of Ireland entring upon the office on Saint Martins day Item O Molaghelin King of Meth is slaine MCCXCI Gilbert Clare the sonne of Gilbert and of the Ladie Joan of Acres was borne the 11. day of May in the morning betimes Item there was an armie led into Ulster against O-Hanlon and other Princes hindering the peace by Richard Earle of Ulster and William Vescie Justice of Ireland Item the Ladie Eleanor sometime Queene of England and mother of King Edward died in the feast of St. Iohn Baptist who in the religious habite which she desired led a laudable life for the space of foure yeeres eleven moneths and sixe dayes within the Abbey of Ambresby where she was a professed Nun. Item there resounded certaine rumours in the eares of the Lord Pope Martin on the even of St. Mary Maudlen as touching the Citie Acon in the holy land which was the only refuge of the Christians namely that it was besieged by Milkador the Soldan of Babylon an infinite number of his souldiers and that it had been most fiercely assaulted about fortie daies to wit from the eighth day before the Ides of April unto the fifteene Calends of July At length the wall was plucked down by the Saracens that assaulted it and an infinite number of them entred the Citie many Christians being slaine and some for feare drowned in the sea The Patriarch also with his traine perished in the sea The King of Cypres and Otes Grandison with their companies pitifully escaped by a ship Item granted there was unto the Lord Edward King of England by the Lord Pope Martin the tenth part of all the profits of Ecclesiasticall benefices for seven yeeres in Ireland toward the reliefe of the holy land Item the eldest sonne of the Earle of Clare was borne MCCXCII Edward King of England eftsoones entred Scotland and was elected King of Scotland Lord John Balliol of Galwey obtained the whole kingdome of Scotland in right of inheritance and did homage unto the Lord Edward King of England at New-castle upon Tine on S. Stephens day Florentius Earle of Holland Robert Brus Earle of Carrick John Hastings John Comyn Patrick Dunbar John Vescie Nicolas Soules and William Roos who all of them in that kingdome submitted themselves to the judgement of the Lord King Edward Item a fifteene of all secular mens goods in Ireland was granted unto the soveraign Lord King of England the same to be collected at the feast of S. Michael Item Sir Peter Genevile Knight died Item Rice ap Meredyke was brought to York and there at horses tailes drawne c. MCCXCIII A generall and open war there was at sea against the Normans Item no small number of the Normans by fight at sea was slain by the Barons of the Ports of England and other their co-adjutors between Easter and Whitsuntide For which cause there arose war between England and France whereupon Philip King of France directed his letters of credence unto the King of England that he should make personall appearance at his Parliament to answer unto Questions which the same King would propose unto him whose mandate in this behalf being not fulfilled straightwaies the King of France declaring by the counsell of the French the King of England to be outlawed condemned him Item Gilbert Clare Earle of Glocester entred with his wife into Ireland about the feast of S. Luke MCCXCIV William Montefort in the Kings counsell holden at Westminster before the King died sodainly which William was the Dean of S. Pauls in London in whose mouth the Prelates Bishops and Cleargy putting their words which he was to utter and doubting how much the King affected and desired to have of every one of them and willing by him to be certified in whom also the King reposed most trust being returned to the King and making hast before the King to deliver expresly a speech that he had conceived became speechlesse on a sodain and fell downe to the ground and was carried forth by the Kings servants in their armes in piteous manner In regard of which sight that thus happened men strucken with feare gave out these speeches Surely this man hath beene the Agent and Procurator that the Tenths of Ecclesiasticall benefices should bee paied to the King and another author and procurer of a scrutinie made into the fold and flocke of Christ as also of a contribution granted afterward to the King crying against William Item the Citie of Burdeaux with the land of Gascoigne adjoining was occupied or held by the ministers of the King of France conditionally but unjustly and perfidiously detained by the King of France for which cause John Archbishop of Dublin and certaine other Lords of the Nobilitie were sent into Almaine to the King thereof and after they had their dispatch and answer in Tordran the Lord Archbishop being returned into England ended his life upon S. Leodegaries day The bones of which John Sampford were enterred in the Church of Saint Patrick in Dublin the tenth day before the Calends of March. The same yeere there arose debate betweene Lord William Vescy Lord Justice of Ireland for the time being and the Lord John Fitz-Thomas and the said Lord Williliam Vescy crossed the seas into England left Sir William Hay in his stead Justice of Ireland but when both of them were come before the King to fight a combat under an Appeal for treason the foresaid
William Vescy fled into France and would not fight Then the King of England gave all the Seigniories and Lordships which were the Lord William Vescies unto Sir John Fitz-Thomas to wit Kildare Rathemgan and many others The same yeere Gilbert Clare Earle of Glocester returned out of Ireland into England likewise Richard Earle of Ulster soon after the feast of S. Nicholas was taâ—en prisoner by Sir John Fitz-Thomas and kept in ward within the Castle of Ley unto the feast of Saint Gregorie the Pope whose enlargement was then made by the counsell of the Lord the King in a Parliament at Kilkenny for the taking of whom the foresaid Sir Iohn Fitz-Thomas gave all his lands to wit Slygah with the pertenances which he had in Connaght Item the Castle of Kildare was won Kildare and the country round about it is spoiled by the English and Irish. Caluagh burnt all the Rolls and Tallies of the said Earle Great dearth and pestilence there was throughout Ireland this yeere and the two next ensuing Item Lord William Odyngzele is made Justice of Ireland MCCXCV Edward King of England built the Castle de Bello-Marisco that is Beaumaris in Venedocia which is called mother of Cambria and of the common sort Anglesey entring unto the said Anglesey straight after Easter and subduing the Venodotes that is the able men of Anglesey under his dominion and soone after this time namely after the feast of St. Margaret Madock at that time the elect Prince of Wales submitting himselfe to the Kings grace and favour was brought by Iohn Haverings to London and there shut up prisoner in the towre expecting the Kings grace and benevolence This yeere died Lord William Odingzele Justice of Ireland the morrow after S. Mary of Aegypt whom succeeded Sir Thomas Fitz-Maurice in the Justiceship Item about the same time the Irish of Leinster wasted Leinster burning New-castle with other townes Item Thomas Torbevile a traitor of the King and the realm being convicted was drawne through the middest of London lying along prostrate guarded with foure tormentors disguised under vizzards taunting and reviling him and thus in the end was hanged upon a jibbet in chaines so as his carcase might not be committed to sepulture but kites carrion crowes and ravens celebrated his funerals This Thomas was one of them which at the siege of the Castle of Rions were taken prisoners and brought to Paris Who spake unto the Peeres of France and said that he would betray the King of England into their hands and leaving there his two sonnes for hostages returned from the parts beyond-sea joining himself unto the King of England and his counsell relating unto them all how craftily he escaped out of prison and when hee had gotten intelligence of the Kings designement and the ordering of the kingdome hee put all in writing and directed the same unto the Provost of Paris For which being in the end convicted he received the sentence of judgement aforesaid Item about the same time the Scots having broken the bond of peace which they had covenanted with the Lord Edward King of England made a new league with the King of France and conspiring together rose up in armes against their owne soveraigne Lord and King Iohn Balliol and enclosed him within the inland parts of Scotland in a castle environed and fensed round about with mountaines They elected unto themselves after the manner of France twelve Peeres to wit foure Bishops foure Earles and foure Lords of the Nobilitie by whose will and direction all the affaires of the kingdome should be managed And this was done in despite and to disgrace the King of England for that against the will and consent of the Scots the said John was by the King of England set over them to be their Soveraigne Item the King of England brought an armie againe toward Scotland in Lent following to represse the rash arrogancie and presumption of the Scots against their owne father and King Item Sir Iohn Wogan was made Justice of Ireland and the Lord Thomas Fitz-Maurice gave place unto him Item the said John Wogan Justice of Ireland made peace and truce to last for two yeeres betweene the Earle of Ulster and Iohn Fitz-Thomas and the Geraldines Item in these dayes about the feast of Christ his Nativitie Gilbert Clare Earle of Glocester finished this life Item the King of England sendeth his brother Edmund with an armie into Gascoigne MCCXCVI The Lord Edward King of England the third day before the Calends of Aprill to wit upon Friday that fell out then to be in Easter weeke wonne Berwicke wherein were slaine about 7000. Scots and of the English one onely Knight to wit Sir Richard Cornwall with seven footmen and no more Item shortly after namely upon the fourth of May he entred the Castle of Dunbar and tooke prisoners of the enemies about fortie men alive who all submitted themselves to the Kings grace and mercie having before defeated the whole armie of the Scots that is to say slaine seven hundred men of armes neither were there slaine of the English men in that service as well of horsemen as of footmen but ... footmen onely Item upon the day of Saint John before Port-Latin no small number of Welshmen even about fifteene thousand by commandement of the King went into Scotland to invade and conquer it And the same time the great Lords of Ireland to wit Iohn Wogan Justice of Ireland Richard Bourk Earle of Ulster Theobald Butler and Iohn Fitz-Thomas with others came to aide and sailed over sea into Scotland The King of England also entertaining them upon the third day before the Ides of May to wit on Whitsunday made a great and solemne feast in the Castle of Rokesburgh to them and other Knights of England Item upon the next Wednesday before the feast of Saint Barnabe the Apostle hee entred the towne of Edeâ—burgh and wonne the Castle before the feast of Saint John Baptist and shortly after even in the same summer were all the Castles within the compasse of Scotland rendred up into his hands Item the same Lord John Balliol King of Scotland came though unwilling upon the Sunday next after the feast of the translation of Saint Thomas the Archbishop to the King of England with Earles Bishops and a great number of Knights beside and submitted themselves unto the Kings grace and will saving life and limbe and the Lord John Balliol resigned up all his right of Scotland into the King of England his hand whom the Lord the King sent toward the parts about London under safe conduct Item Edmund the King of Englands brother died in Gascoigne MCCXCVII Lord Edward King of England sailed over into Flanders with a power of armed men against the King of France for the warre that was raised betweene them where after great expences and much altercation a certaine forme of peace was concluded betweene them with this condition that they should submit themselves unto the ordinance of
the Lord the Pope From the one side and the other were sent certaine messengers to the Court of Rome but whiles King Edward abode in Flanders William Walleis by the common counsell of the Scots came with a great armie to the bridge of Strivelin and gave battle unto John Earle Warren in which battell on both sides many were slaine and many drowned But the Englishmen were discomfited and defeated Upon which exploit all the Scots at once arose and made an insurrection as well Earls as Barons against the King of England And there fell discord betweene the King of England and Roger Bigod Earle Mareschall but soone after they were agreed And Saint Lewis a Frier minor sonne of the King of Sicily and Archbishop of Colein died Also the sonne and heire of the King de Maliagro that is of the Majoricke Ilands instituted the order of the Friers minors at the information of Saint Lewis who said Goe and doe so Item in Ireland Leghlin with other townes was burnt by the Irish of Slemergi Item Calwagh O-Hanlan and Yneg Mac-Mahon are slaine in Urgale MCCXCVIII Pope Boniface the fourth the morrow after the Feast of the Apostles Peter and Paul after all tumults were appeased ordained and confirmed a peace betweene the King of England and the King of France with certaine conditions that after followed Item Edward King of England set forth with an armie againe into Scotland for to subdue the Scots under his dominion Item there were slaine in the same expedition about the feast of Saint Marie Maudlen many thousands of the Scots at Fawkirk The sunne the same day appeared as red as bloud over all Ireland so long as the battell continued at Fawkirke aforesaid Item about the same time the Lord King of England feoffed his Knights in the Earldomes and Baronies of the Scots that were slaine More in Ireland peace and concord was concluded between the Earle of Ulster and Lord John Fitz-Thomas about the feast of the Apostles Simon and Iude. Also on the morrow after the feast of the 7. Saints sleepers the sun-beames were changed almost into the colour of bloud even from the morning so that all men that saw it wondred thereat Moreover there died Sir Thomas Fitz-Maurice Knight and Sir Robert Bigod sometime Lord chiefe Justice of the Bench. Item in the Citie Artha as also in Reathe in the parts of Italie whiles Pope Boniface abode there at the same time there happened so great an Earthquake that towres and palaces fell downe to the ground The Pope also with his Cardinals fled from the Citie much affrighted Item upon the feast of the Epiphany that is Twelfe day there was an earthquake though not so violent in England from Canterburie as farre as to Hampton MCCXCIX Lord Theobald Botiller the younger departed this life in the Manour de Turby the second day before the Ides of May whose corps was conveied toward Weydeney that is Weney in the countie of Limeric the sixth day before the Calends of June Item Edward King of England tooke to wife the Ladie Margaret sister to the noble King of France in the Church of the holy Trinitie in Canterburie about the feast of the holy Trinitie Item the Soldan of Babylon was defeated with a great armie of Saracens by Cassian King of the Tartars MCCXCIX The day after the feast of the Purification of the blessed Virgin Marie there was an infinite number of the Saracens horsemen slaine besides the footmen who were likewise innumerable Item in the same yeere there was a battell or fight of dogges in Burgundie at Genelon castle and the number of the dogges was 3000. and everie one killed another so that no dogge escaped alive but one alone Item the same yeere many Irishmen came to trouble and molest the Lord Theobald Verdon to the Castle of Roch before the feast of the Annuntiation MCCC The Pollard money is forbidden in England and Ireland Also in the Autumne Edward King of England entred Scotland with a power of armed men but at the commandement of Pope Boniface hee was stayed and he sent solemne messengers unto the Court of Rome excusing himself of doing any injurie Item Thomas the Kings sonne of England was the last day of May born at Brotherton of Margaret sister to the King of France Item Edward Earle of Cornwall died without leaving behind an heire of his owne bodie and was enterred in the Abbey of Hales MCCCI. Edward King of England entred into Scotland with an armie unto whom failed over sea Sir John Wogan Justice of Ireland and Sir John Fitz-Thomas Peter Bermingham and many others to aide the King of England Also a great part of the Citie Dublin was burnt together with the Church of Saint Warburga on S. Columbs day at night More Sir Geffrey Genevil espoused the daughter of Sir John Montefort and Sir John Mortimer espoused the daughter and heire of Sir Peter Genevil And the Lord Theobald Verdon espoused the daughter of the Lord Roger Mortimer At the same time the men of Leinster made warre in winter burning the towne of Wykynlo and Rathdon with others but they escaped not unpunished because the more part of their sustenance was burnt up and their cattell lost by depredation and the same Irish had beene utterly almost consumed but that the seditious dissention of certaine Englishmen was an hinderance thereto Item a defeature and slaughter was made by the Toolans upon a small companie assembled of the Brenies in which were slaine almost three hundred robbers Item Walter Power wasted a great part of Mounster burning many ferme houses MCCCII There died the ladie Margaret wife to Sir John Wogan Justice of Ireland the third day before the Ides of April and in the week following Maud Lacy wife to Sir Geffery Genevil died also Edward Botiller recovered the manour de S. Bosco with the pertenances from Sir Richard Ferenges Archbishop of Dublin by a concord made between them in the Kings bench after the feast of S. Hilarie Item the Flemings gave an overthrow at Courteray in Flanders unto the army of the French the Wednesday after the feast of the Translation of S. Thomas wherein were slaine the Earle of Arthois the Earle of Aumarle the Earle of Hue Ralph Neel Constable of France Guy Nevil Mareschal of France the sonne of the Earle of Hennaund Godfrey Brabant with his sonne William Fenys and his son Iames S. Paul lost his hand and fortie Baronets lost their lives that day with Knights Esquires and others sans number Item the tenths of all Ecclesiasticall benefices in England and Ireland were exacted by Boniface the Pope for 3. yeeres as a Subsidie to the Church of Rome against the King of Aragon Also upon the day of the Circumcision Sir Hugh Lacie raised booties from Hugh Vernail In the same yeere Robert Brus then Earle of Carrick espoused the daughter of Sir Richard Bourk Earle of Ulster Item Edward Botiller espoused the daughter of Sir Iohn Fitz-Thomas also
the Citie of Burdeaux with other Cities lying round about it which by the sedition of the Frenchmen had been at any time alienated from Edward King of England were restored unto him againe upon St. Andrewes even by the industrie of the L. Hastings MCCCIII The Earle of Ulster to wit Richard Bourk and Sir Eustace Pover entred Scotland with a puissant armie but after that the Earle himselfe had first made thirtie three Knights in the Castle of Dublin hee passed over into Scotland to aide the King of England Item Gerald the sonne and heire of Sir Iohn Fitz-Thomas departed out of this world In the same yeere Pope Boniface excommunicated the King and Queene of France and their children Hee renewed also all the priviledges granted at any time unto the Universitie of Paris and straight after the Pope was taken prisoner and kept as it were in prison three whole daies And soone after the Pope died likewise the Countesse of Ulster deceased Also Wulfrane Wellesly and Sir Robert Percivell were slaine the 11. day before the Calends of November MCCCIIII A great part of Dublin was burnt to wit the Bridge street with a good part of the Key and the Church of the Friers Preachers and the Church of the Monks with no small part of the Monasterie about the Ides of June to wit on the Feast day of S. Medard Also the first stone of the Friers Preachers Quire in Dublin was laid by Eustace Lord Pover on the Feast of S. Agatha Virgin Likewise after the Feast of the Purification of the blessed Virgin Marie the King of France invaded Flanders againe in proper person with a puissant armie Then bare he himselfe bravely in the war and fought manfully so long untill two or three horses of service were slaine under him but at last he lost his cap that under his helmet was put upon his head which the Flemings taking up carried by way of scornfull derision upon a lance as a banner and in all the famous Faires of Flanders put it out at the high window of some place or stately house like the signe of an Inne or Taverne and shewed it in token of victorie MCCCV Jordan Comyn with his complices slew Moritagh O-Conghir King of Offalie and Calwagh his whole brother and certain others in the Court of Sir Piers Brymgeham at Carrick in Carbrey likewise Sir Gilbert Sutton Seneschal of Weisford was slaine by the Irish neere unto a village or House of Haymund Grace which Haymund verily in the said skirmish manfully carried himselfe but stoutly escaped Item in Scotland the Lord Robert Brus Earle of Carricke forgetting his oath made to the King of England slew Sir John Rede Comyn within the cloisture of the Friers Minors of Dunfrese and soone after caused himselfe to be crowned King of Scotland by the hands of two Bishops to wit of S. Andrewes and of Glasco in the towne of Scone to the confusion of himselfe and of many others MCCCVI A great discomfiture was made in Offaly neere unto the Castle of Gesbill on the Ides of Aprill upon O-Conghor by O-Dympcies in which was slaine O-Dympcey Leader of the Regans with a great traine accompanying him Also O-Brene King of Towmond died Item Donald Oge Mac Carthy slew Donald Ruff that is the Red King of Desmund Item a lamentable defeature fell upon the part of Piers Brymegham the fourth day before the Calends of May in the Marches of Meth. Item Balymore in Leinster was burnt by the Irish where at the same time Henry Calfe was slaine and there arose war betweene the English and the Irish in Leinster for which cause there was assembled a great armie from divers parts of Ireland to bridle the malice of the Irish in Leinster in which expedition Sir Tho. Mandevil Knight and a brave warriour had a great conflict with the Irish neere to Clenfell in which conflict he behaved himselfe valiantly untill his horse of service was slaine and won much praise and honour by saving many a man and himselfe also Item M. Thomas Cantock Chancellour of Ireland was consecrated Bishop of Ymelasen in the Church of the holy Trinitie at Dublin with great honour at whose consecration were present the Elders of all Ireland where there was so sumptuous and so great a feast made first unto the rich and afterwards to the poore as the like had never been heard of before in Ireland Item Richard Feringes Archbishop of Dublindied in the Vigile of Saint Luke after whom succeeded Master Richard Haverings who occupied the Archbishoprick almost five yeeres by Apostolicall dispensation Who also resigned up his Archbishoprick after whom succeeded John Leth. The occasion and cause of his giving over as the Arch-deacon of Dublin of good memorie his Nephew hath reported was this for that one night hee dreamed that a certaine Monster heavier than the whole world stood eminently aloft upon his brest from the weight whereof he chose rather to be delivered than alone to have all the goods of the world but when he wakened hee thought with himselfe this was nothing else but the Church of Dublin the fruits whereof hee received and tooke no paines for the same As soone as hee could therefore he came unto the Lord the Pope of whom hee was much beloved and there renounced and gave over the Archbishopricke For hee had as the same Archdeacon avouched fatter benefices and livings than the Archbishopricke came unto Item Edward King of England in the feast of Pentecost that is Whitsontide made Edward his son Knight in London at which feast were dubbed about 400. Knights and the said Edward of Caernarvan newly knighted made threescore Knights of those abovesaid and kept his feast in London at the New Temple and his father gave unto him the Dutchy of Aquitaine Item the same yeere in the feast of Saint Potentiana the Bishop of Winchester and the Bishop of Worcester by commandement from the Lord the Pope excommunicated Robert Brus the pretended King of Scotland and his confederates for the death of Iohn Rede Comyn In the same yeere upon S. Boniface his day Aumarde Valence Earle of Pembroch and Lord Guy Earle ............ slew many Scots and the Lord Robert Brus was defeated without the town of S. Iohns And the same yeere about the feast of the Nativitie of St. Iohn Baptist King Edward went toward Scotland by water from Newarke to Lincolne Item the same yeere the Earle of Asceles and the Lord Simon Freysell and the Countesse of Carricke the pretended Queene of Scotland daughter of the Earle of Ulster were taken prisoners The Earle of Asceles and the Lord Simon Freysell were first torne and mangled As for the Countesse she remained with the King in great honour but the rest died miserably in Scotland Item about the feast of the Purification of the blessed Virgin Marie two brethren of Robert Brus professing pyracie went out of their gallies a land to prey and were taken with sixteen Scots besides and those two themselves
slaine Item afterwards upon St. Nicolas day the said Brus departed out of Cragfergus unto whom the Earle of Moreff presented himselfe with 500. men unto the parts about Dundalk they came together and to them many fled and some gave unto them their right hands and from thence they passe on to Nobee where they left many of their men about the feast of S. Andrew the Apostle and Brus himselfe burnt Kenlys in Meth and Grenard Abbey and the said Monastery he rifled and spoiled of all the goods in it Also Finnagh and New-castle he burnt and all that countrey and they kept their Christmas at Loghfudy and then burnt it And after this they marched forward by Totmoy unto Rathymegan and Kildare and the parts about Tristeldermot and Athy and Reban not without losse of their men And then came Brus to Skethy neere Arscoll in Leinster where there encountred him in fight the Lord Edmund Botiller Justice of Ireland and Sir John Fitz-Thomas and Thomas Arnald Power and other Noble-men of Leinster and of Mounster insomuch as one of those Lords with his army was sufficient to vanquish the said Edw. and his forces But there arose a discord among them and so being disordered and in confusion they leave the field unto the said Edward according to that which is written Every kingdome divided in it selfe shal be made desolate There also was slaine a noble esquire and faithfull to the King and the Realme Haymund Grace and with him Sir William Prendregest Knight On the Scots part were slaine Sir Fergus Andressan Sir Walter Morrey and many others whose bodies were buried at Athy in the Covent of the Friers Preachers Afterwards the said Brus in his returne toward Meth burnt the castle de Loy and then the said Scots depart away from Kenlis in Meth against whom the Lord Roger Mortimer came with a great armie well neere 15000. but as it is thought not true and faithfull among themselves but now confederate with the Lord Roger who about three of the clock began to flie and turned their backs and principally the Lacies leaving the Lord Roger alone with a few whom it behoved then to flie toward Dublin and to Sir Walter Cusake at the Castle of Trim leaving with the Scots that countrey and the towne of Kenlis Also at the same time the Irish of the South to wit the O-Tothiles and the O-brynnes burnt all the South-country namely Arclo Newcastle Bree and all the villages adjoining And the O-Morghes fired and wasted part of the Leys in Leinster whom for the most part the Lord Edmund Botiller Justice of Ireland slew whose heads to the number of fourescore were brought to the castle of Dublin Item in the same yeere about the feast of the purification of the blessed Virgin Marie certain Lords of Ireland and the Lord Fitz-Thomas the Lord Richard Clare Lord John Pover and the Lord Arnald Pover for to establish peace greater securitie with the King of England came to Sir John Hothom assigned there by the said King of England which said Lords and Nobles sware to hold with the King of England come life come death and to their power to quiet the countrey and make peace and to kill the Scots For the performance whereof by the leave and helpe of God they gave hostages and so returned which forme if other Nobles of the land of Ireland would not keepe they were generally held for the Kings enemies Item there died Sir John Bisset And the Church of the new towne of Leys with the steeple and belfray was by the Scots burnt The Scots won the Castle of Northburgh in Ulster Also Fidelmic O-Conghir King of Connaght slew Rorke the sonne of Cathol O-Conghir More Sir William Maundevile died and the Bishop of Conere fled to the Castle of Crag-fergus and his Bishoprick was liable to an interdiction and Sir Hugh Antonie is killed in Connaght Item in the same yeere on Saint Valentines day the Scots abode neere Geshil and Offaly and the armie of the English about the parts of Kildare and the Scots endured so great famine that many of them were starved to death and for the same cause they tooke their way closely toward Fowier in Meth. The Sunday following so feeble they were what with hunger and what with travaile that most of them died And afterwards the Nobles came unto the Parliament and did nothing there but as they returned spoiled all the countrey and the Lord Walter Lacie came to Dublin for to cleere himselfe of an imputation touching his credit laied upon him and to tender hostages unto the Lord the King as other Nobles had done and the same time Edward Brus peaceably abode in Ulster Item the O-Tothiles and O-Brynnes the Archibaulds and Harolds conspired and banded together the towne of Wicklo and the whole countrey they laied wast And in the first weeke of Lent the Earle of Moreff sailed over into Scotland and Brus held plees in Ulster and caused many to be hanged Also in the midst of Lent Brus held Plees and slew the Logans and took Sir Alan Fitz-Warin and carried him into Scotland Also in the same yeere Fennyngher O-Conghir slew Cale-Rothe and with him of Galloglaghes and others about three hundred The same yeere in Mid-Lent wheat was sold for 18. shillings and at Easter following for 11. shillings MCCCXVI Lord Thomas Mandevile with many others came from Tredagh to Crag-fergus upon Maunday Thursday and joyned battaile with the Scots put them to flight and slew thirtie of the Scots and afterward on Easter even the said Lord Thomas with his men charged upon the Scots and slew many of them about the Calends and there was slain the said Lord Thomas Maundevile in his own country in defence of his right Item in the parts of Connaght many Irish were slaine by Lord Richard Clare and Lord Richard Bermingham Item on Saturday after the Lords Ascension Donnyger O-Brynne a strong thiefe with twelve of his confederates was slain by Sir William Comyn and his followers keepers of the peace whose heads were carried to Dublin Item the Dundalkers made a rode against O-Hanlan and slew of the Irish about two hundred and Robert Verdon a warlike esquire there lost his life Item at Whitsontide the same yeere Richard Bermingham slew of the Irish in Mounster about three hundred or more and afterwards at the feast of the Nativitie of S. John Baptist came Brus to the Castle of Crag-fergus and commanded the keepers to render up the Castle unto him according to the covenant between them made as he said who answered that they ought indeed so to doe and willed him to send thirtie of his men about him and required that he would grant them within life and limbe who did so but after they had received thirtie Scots into the Castle they shut them up and kept them in prison At the same time the Irish of O-mayl went toward the parts of Tullogh fought a battell whereupon of the Irish
were slaine about foure hundred whose heads were sent to Dublin and wonders were afterwards seene there The dead as it were arose and fought one with another and cried out Fennokabo which was their signal And afterward about the feast of the translation of S. Thomas there were rigged and made ready eight ships and set out from Tredagh to Crag-fergus with victuals Which were by the Earle of Ulster much troubled for the delivery of William Burk who had been taken with the Scots and the Saturday following there were made friends and united at Dublin the Earle of Ulster and the Lord John Fitz-Thomas and many of the Nobles sworne and confederate to live and die for the maintenance of the peace of Ireland The same yeere newes came out of Connaght that O-Conghir slew many of the English to wit Lord Stephen of Excester Miles Cogan and many of the Barries and of the Lawlies about fourescore Item the weeke after Saint Laurence feast there arose in Connaght foure Irish Princes to make warre against the English against whom came the Lord William Burk the Lord Richard Bermingham the Lord of Anry with his retinue of the country and of the same Irish about eleven thousand fell upon the edge of the sword neere unto Anry which town was walled afterwards with the mony raised of armor and spoile gotten from the Irish because every one of the English that had double armours of the Irish gave the one halfe deale toward the walls of the towne Anry Slaine were there Fidelmic O-Conghir a petty King or Prince of Connaght O-Kelley and many other Princes or Potentates John Husee a butcher of Anry fought there who the same night at the request of his Lord of Anry stood among the dead to seek out and discover O-Kelley which O-Kelley with his Costrell or esquire rose out of their lurking holes and cried unto the foresaid man to wit Husee come with mee and I will make thee a great Lord in my countrey And Husee answered I will not goe with thee but thou shalt goe to my Lord Richard Bermingham Then said O-Kelley Thou hast but one servant with thee and I have a doughtie esquire therefore come with mee that thou maist bee safe unto whom his owne man also said Agree and goe away with O-Kelley that wee may be saved and inriched because they are stronger than we But the said John Husee first killed his owne servant and O-Kelley and his Esquire and cut off all their three heads and carried them to his Lord Richard Bermingham and that Bermingham gave unto the said John Hussee faire lands and dubbed him Knight as he well deserved The same yeere about the feast of S. Laurence came O-Hanlan to Dundalk for to destreine and the Dundalkers with their men killed a number Item on Monday next before the feast of the nativitie of Saint Mary came David O-Tothill with foure more and hid himselfe secretly all night long in Coleyn wood which the Dublinians and Sir William Comyn perceiving went forth and manfully pursued them for sixe leagues and slew of them about seventeen and wounded many to death Also there ran rumors to Dublin that the Lord Robert Brus King of Scotland entred Ireland to aid Edward Brus his brother and the Castle of Crag-fergus in Ulster was besieged by the foresaid Scots The Monasteries of St. Patrick of Dune and of Seball and many other houses as well of Monkes as of regular preaching Friers and Minors were spoiled in Ulster by the Scots Item the Lord William Burk leaving his son for an hostage in Scotland is set free The Church of Brught in Ulster being in manner full of folke of both sexes is burnt by the Scots and Irish of Ulster At the same time newes came from Crag-fergus that those which kept the Castle for default of victuals did eat hides and leather yea and eight Scots who before were taken prisoners great pity and griefe that no man relieved such And the Friday following newes were brought that Thomas the sonne of the Earle of Ulster was dead Also the Sunday following the feast of the nativitie of the blessed Virgin died Lord Iohn Fitz-Thomas at Laraghbrine neere unto Mayneth and he was buried at Kildare among the Friers Minors Of which Lord John Fitz-Thomas it is said that a little before his death he was created Earle of Kildare after whom succeeded his sonne and heire the Lord Thomas Fitz-Iohn a prudent and wise personage And afterwards newes came that the Castle of Crag-fergus was rendred to the Scots and granted there was to the keepers of it life and limbe Also upon the day of the exaltation of the holy Crosse Conghar and Mac-keley were slaine with five hundred of the Irish by the Lord William Burke and Richard Bermingham in Connaght Item on Munday before Holloughmas happened a great slaughter of the Scots in Ulster by John Loggan and Hugh Bisset to wit one hundred with double armour and two hundred with single armour The number of those men of armes that were slaine in all was three hundred beside footmen And afterward in the Vigill of Saint Edmund King there fell a great tempest of winde and raine which overthrew many houses and the Steeple of Saint Trinitie Church in Dublin and did much harme on land and sea Also in the Vigill of S. Nicholas Sir Alan Stewart taken prisoner in Ulster by John Loggan and Sir John Sandale was brought unto the Castle of Dublin In the same yeere newes arrived out of England that the Lord King of England and the Earle of Lancaster were at variance and that they were desirous one to surprize the other for which cause the whole land was in great trouble Item in the same yeere about the feast of St. Andrew the Apostle sent there were to the Court of Rome the Lord Hugh Despencer the Lord Bartholmew Baldesmere the Bishop of Worcester and the Bishop of Ely about important affaires of the Lord King of England for Scotland who returned into England about the feast of the purification of the blessed Virgin Mary Also after the said feast the Lacies came to Dublin and procured an inquisition to prove that the Scots by their meanes came not into Ireland which inquisition acquitted them Whereupon they had a charter of the Lord the King of peace and upon the Sacrament given unto them they tooke an oath to keepe the peace of the Lord King of England and to their power to destroy the Scots And afterwards even in the same yeere after the feast of Shrovetide the Scots came secretly as farre as to Slane with twenty thousand armed men and the armie of Ulster joyned with them who spoiled the whole countrey before them And after this on munday next before the feast of S. Matthias the Apostle the Earle of Ulster was taken in the Abbey of St. Mary by the Maior of the Citie of Dublin to wit Robert Notingham and brought to the castle of Dublin where
there was of oxen and kine in Ireland MCCCXXV Richard Lederede Bishop of Ossorie cited Dame Alice Ketyll upon her perverse hereticall opinion and caused her to make personall appearance before him and being examined as touching sorceries he found by an enquest that she had practised sorceries among which this was one foule fact of hers that a certaine spirit named Robyn Artysson lay with her and that she offered unto him nine red cockes at a stone bridge in a certaine foure crosse high way Item that she swept the streets of Kilkenny with beesomes between Complin and Courefew and in sweeping the filth toward the house of William Utlaw her sonne by way of conjuring mumbled these words Unto the house of William my sonne Hie all the wealth of Kilkenny towne Now the complices of the said Alice and those that agreed unto this divelish and wretched practise of hers were one Pernill of Meth and Basilia the daughter of the same Pernil When the above named Alice was by inquisition attainted of these foresaid imputations the Bishop punished her by the purse and caused her utterly to abjure all sorcerie and witch-craft But when afterwards shee stood convict eftsoones of the same crime herselfe with the foresaid Basilia fled but was never after found As for the said Pernill she was burnt at Kilkenny but at the houre of death shee avouched that the foresaid William deserved death as well as her selfe affirming that he for a yeere and a day wore the divels girdle upon his bare bodie Whereupon the Bishop caused the said William to bee apprehended and laid in prison for eight or nine weekes within the Castle of Kilkenny and by the Bishops decree and appointment hee had two men to give attendance and to minister unto him with expresse commandement not to speake unto him but once a day nor to eat or drinke with him At length the said William by the helpe of the Lord Arnald Poer Seneschall of the Countie of Kilkenny was delivered forth of prison and the foresaid William gave a great summe of money unto the abovenamed Arnold to imprison the Bishop aforesaid The Lord Arnold before named caused the Bishop aforesaid to lye in prison about three moneths Now among the goods and implements of the said Alice there was a certaine holy Wafer-cake found having the name of the Divell imprinted upon it there was found also a boxe and within it an ointment wherewith she used to besmear or grease a certaine piece of wood called a Coultree which being thus annointed the said Alice with her complices could ride and gallop upon the said Coultree whethersoever they would all the world over through thick thin without either hurt or hindrance And because the foresaid things were so notorious Alice was cited againe to appeare at Dublin before M. Deane of the Church of St. Patricke there to finde greater favour Who there made her appearance and craved a day of answer under a sufficient mainprise and suretiship as it was thought But shee was no more to be seene for by the counsell of her sonne and others that were not knowne was she kept hidden in a farme house or village untill the winde served for England and so she passed over and never was it knowne whither she went Now because it was found by the inquisition and recognizance of the said Parnell condemned to be burnt that William Utlaw was consenting to his mother in her sorcerie and with-craft the Bishop caused him to be arrested and taken by the Kings writ and to be kept in prison who in the end through the supplication of great Lords was set free yet with this condition that he should cause the Church of S. Maries in Kilkenny to be covered all over with lead and to doe other almes-deeds by a certaine time which almes-deeds if he performed not within the said terme then he should be in the same state wherein he stood when he was taken by vertue of the Kings Processe MCCCXXVI A Parliament was holden at Whitsontide in Kilkenny unto which Parliament came the Lord Richard Burk the Earle of Ulster although he was somewhat weake and crazie thither repaired also all the Lords and Potentates of Ireland and there the said Earle made a great and noble feast unto the Lords and the people Afterwards the Lord Earle taking his leave of those Nobles and Lords went to Athisell where he ended his life And a little before the feast of S. John Baptist he was there enterred The Lord William Burk became his heire MCCCXXVII There arose a quarrell and a fray betweene the Lord Moris Fitz-Thomas and the Lord Arnald Pover and the Lord Moris had in his traine and company the Lord Botiller and the Lord William Bermingham and the Lord Arnald had in his retinew the Bourkeins of whom the said Lord Morrice Fitz-Thomas slew many and some he chased into Connaght In the same yeere after Michaelmas the Lord Arnald came to aide the Bourkeins and by occasion of certaine rude and uncivill tearmes which the Lord Arnald had given out in calling him Rymour the said Morice raised an armie againe and together with Botiller and the said William Bermingham with a puissant hoast burnt the lands and possessions of the said Lord Arnâ—ld in Ofath Also the said William Bermingham fired the lands and man our houses of the Lord Arnald Pover in Mounster and Kenlys in Osserie he burnt so that the Lord Arnald was forced to fly with the Baron of Donnyl to Waterford and there they remained a moneth untill that the Earle of Kildare then Lord Justice of Ireland and others of the Kings Counsel took a day betweene them which day the Lord Arnald kept not but came to Dublin and passed the seas into England about the feast of the Purification and after that Arnald had sailed over the said Moris Botiller and the Lord William Bermingham with a great armie came spoiled harried and burnt the lands of the said Arnald and by reason of those puissant forces that they had led and the many mischiefes which they had done the Kings ministers of his Counsell feared lest he would besiege Cities and therefore the Cities made provision with more warding and watching the while betweene And when the said Lord Moris Botiler and William heard that the Cities made such provision and preparation before hand they gave intelligence unto the Kings Counsell that they would come to Kilkenny and there cleere himselves that they never thought to doe any noisance to the lands of their soveraigne Lord the King but onely to be revenged of their enemies Unto which Parliament came the Earle of Kildare then Justice of Ireland the Prior of Kilmaynon to wit Roger Outlaw Chancellour of Ireland Nicholas Fastoll Justice in the Bench and others of the Kings Counsell and the foresaid Moris and William demanded the Kings Charter of peace but they of the Kings Counsell warily making answer tooke day unto the moneth after Easter that they might
with their fellowes of the Counsell treat upon this point In the same yeere before Lent the Irish of Leinster gathered themselves together and set up a certain King namely Donald the sonne of Arte Mac-Murgh Who being made King determined to set up his banner two miles from Dublin and afterwards to passe through all the lands of Ireland Whose pride and malice God seeing suffered him to fall into the hands of the Lord Henry Traharn who brought him to the Salmons leaps had of him 200. pound for his lives ransome then led him to Dublin to wait there untill the Kings Counsell could provide and take order what to doe with him and after his taking many infortunities lighted upon the Irish of Leinster to wit the Lord John Wellesley took David O-Thothiel prisoner and many of the Irish were slaine The same yeere Adam Duff the sonne of Walter Duff of Leinster and of the kinred of the O-Tothiles was convicted for that against the Catholike faith hee denied the Incarnation of Jesus Christ and held that there could not bee three persons and one God and hee affirmed that the most blessed Virgin Mary mother of our Lord was an harlot hee denied also the resurrection of the dead and avouched that the sacred Scriptures were fables and nothing else and he imputed falsitie upon the sacred Apostolicall See For which and for every of these articles the same Adam Duff was pronounced an hereticke and blasphemer whereupon the same Adam by a decree of the Church was on the Munday after the Outas of Easter the yeere 1328. burnt at Hoggis Greene by Dublin MCCCXXVIII On Tuesday in Easter week Thomas Fitz-John Earle of Kildare and Justice of Ireland died after whom succeeded in the office of Justice Frier Roger Outlaw Prior of Kilmaynok The same yeere David O-Tothil a strong thiefe and enemy to the King a burner of Churches and destroier of people was brought forth of the Castle of Dublin to the Tolstale of the Citie before Nicolas Fastoll and Elias Ashbourne Justices in the Kings bench which Justices gave him his judgement that he should first be drawne at horses tailes through the midst of the Citie unto the gallowes and afterward be hanged upon a jebbit which was done accordingly Item in the same yeere the Lord Moris Fitz-Thomas raised a great army to destroy the Bourkeins and the Poers The same yeere also the Lord William Bourk was knighted at London on Whitsunday and the King gave unto him his Seignory Also in the same yeere Iames Botiller in England espoused the daughter of the Earle of Hereford and was created Earle of Ormund who before was called Earle of Tiperary The same yeere a Parliament was holden at Northampton where many of the Lords and Nobles of England assembled and a peace was renewed betweene Scotland England and Ireland by marriages between them and it was ordained that the Earle of Ulster with many Nobles of England should goe to Barwick upon Tweed to the espousals and assurance making The same yeere after the said espousals and contract made at Barwicke the Lord Robert Brus King of Scotland and the Lord William Burk Earle of Ulster the Earle of Meneteth and many of the Scottish nobility arrived at Cragfergus peaceably and sent unto the Justices of Ireland and to the Counsell that they would come to Green Castle to treat about a peace of Scotland and Ireland Now because the said Justices of Counsell failed to come as the said King desired he took his leave of the Earle of Ulster and returned into his owne country after the feast of the assumption of the blessed Virgin Mary And the Earle of Ulster came to Dublin unto the Parliament and there stayed sixe dayes and made a great feast and after this went into Connaght The same yeere about the feast of Saint Katherin Virgin the Bishop of Osserie certified the Kings Counsell there that Sir Arnald Pover was convicted before him upon divers articles of perverse heresie Whereupon at the suit of the said Bishop the said Sir Arnald by vertue of the Kings writ was arrested and layed up in the Castle of Dublin and a day was given unto the Bishop for to come unto Dublin to follow the foresaid suit and action against the foresaid Lord Arnald who made his excuse that hee could not then come because his enemies lay in wait for his life in the way whereupon the Kings Counsell knew not how to make an end of this businesse and so the Lord Arnald was kept in duresse within the Castle of Dublin untill the Parliament following which was in Mid-lent where all the Nobles of Ireland were present In the same yeere Frier Roger Utlaw Prior of the Hospitall of St. John of Jerusalem in Ireland Lord Justice and Chancellour of Ireland was disfamed by the said Bishop and slandered to bee a favourer of heresie a Counsellour also and a better of the said Lord Arnold in his hereticall naughtinesse And because his person was thus villanously delamed the said Prior went to the Counsell of the King and put up a petition that hee might purge himselfe Whereupon they of the Kings Counsell tooke advice and upon consultation had granted unto him that he might make his purgation And they caused it to be proclaimed for three dayes That if there were any person who would follow suit and give information against the said Frier Roger he might come in and put in his pursuit But no man was found to follow the matter Whereupon at the procurement of Sir Roger the Frier there went out the Kings writ to summon the Elders of Ireland to wit Bishops Abbots Priors and foure Maiors of foure Cities namely Dublin Corke Limerick and Waterford and of Tredagh also the Sheriffes and Seneschals yea and the Knights of the shire with the Free-holders of the countie that were of the better sort for to repaire unto Dublin And there were chosen sixe examiners in the said cause to wit M. William Rodyard Deane of the Cathedrall Church of St. Patrick in Dublin the Abbat of Saint Thomas the Abbat of St. Maries the Prior of holy Trinitie Church in Dublin M. Elias Lawles and M. Peter Willebey These Inquisitours convented those that were cited and they examined every one severally by himselfe which examinats all upon their oathes deposed that he was honest and faithfull a zealous embracer of the faith and readie to die for the faith and in regard of this great solemnity of his purgation the said Frier Roger made a royall feast to all that would come Also the same yeere in Lent died the said L. Arnald Pover in the Castle of Dublin and lay a long time unburied in the house of the preaching Friers MCCCXXIX After the feast of the Annuntiation of the blessed Virgin Mary the Nobles of Ireland came unto the Parliament at Dublin to wit the Earle of Ulster the Lord Thomas Fitz-Moris the Earle of Louth William Bermingham and the rest of the Lords and
the Irish. Item the Lord William Burgh Earle of Ulster led forth an army out of Ulster into Mounster against Briene O-Brene Also the Lady Joan Countesse of Kildare was at Maynoth delivered of William her first sonne that the Lord John Darcy had by her whiles the Lord John abode in England Item Reymund Lawles is slaine treacherously at Wickelow More a Parliament was holden at Kilkenny by Frier Roger Utlaw the Prior of Kylmainon then Lievtenant under the Lord Justice at which were present Alexander Archbishop of Dublin the Lord William Earle of Ulster the Lord James Earle of Ormond the Lord William Bermingham and Walter Burk of Conaght and every of them with a great power set forward to expell Brien O-Brene out of Urkiff neere Cashill Also Walter Burk with his army of Connaght harried the lands of the Lord Moris Fitz-Thomas bringing back with him the booty to Urkiff Item the Lord Earle of Ulster and the Earle of Desmund namely the Lord Moris Fitz-Thomas for this is the first time that I call him Earle are appointed to the safe keeping of the Marshall at Lymeric by Frier Roger Utlaw Justice of Ireland But the Earle of Desmond by a wile escaped out of the custody of the said Marshall and went his way MCCCXXXI The Lord Hugh Lacy with the Kings pardon and peace entred Ireland Also the Earle of Ulster entred England Also there was given an overthrow to the Irish in Okenseley by the English the one and twenty day of April Item the same day on the Vigill of Saint Marke the Evangelist the O-Tothely came to Tanelagh and robbed Alexander Archbishop of Dublin tooke away three hundred sheepe and slew Richard White and other honest men of his company Then ran rumours to Dublin of that depredation and slaughter and Sir Philip Bryt knight and Frier Moris Fitz-Gerald Knight of the order of Knights Hospitalers Hamnud Archdekyn Iohn Chamberlane Robert Tyrell and the two sons of Reginald Bernewall and many others but especially of the retinew of the Lord Archbishop of Dublin were by a traine or ambush slaine by David O-Tothill in Culiagh Also the Lord William Bermingham led forth a great army against the foresaid Irish and did much harme unto them but more would have done had he not beene empeached by the false promises of the Irish. Item those of the English pale at Thurles gave a great overthrow unto Briene O-Brene and slew many of the Irish in the moneth of May. Item at Finnagh in Meth the English of the said pale defeated the Irish upon the eleventh day of June Also when famine encreased much in Ireland the mercy of God so disposed that upon the seven and twenty day of June there came to land a mighty multitude of great sea fishes to wit Thurlhedis such as in many ages past had never beene seene which by the estimation of many men amounted to the number of five hundred and this hapned neere unto Connyng and the water called Dodyz in the haven of Dublin about evening and Anthony Lord Lucy then Justice of Ireland with his owne people and certain citizens of Dublin amongst whom was Philip Cradock killed of the foresaid fishes above 200. and no man was forbidden to carry away the same Justice giving order therefore Item Antony Lord Lucy Justice of Ireland ordained a common Parliament at Dublin in the Utas of Saint Iohn Baptist unto which certaine of the Ancients of the land came not Then the said Justice removed to Kilkenny proroging the said Parliament from the foresaid Octaves unto the feast of Saint Peter ad Vincula Unto which place there repaired the Lord Thomas Fitz-Thomas and many other Nobles of the land who came not in before submitting themselves to the Kings grace and mercy And the King for his part as much as concerned himselfe under a certaine forme of pardon gratiously forgave all the mischiefes committed by the foresaid persons in the land Also the castle of Fernis is taken by the Irish perfidiously and burned in the month of August Item the said Lord Moris Fitz-Thomas of Desmund is taken by order from the counsell at Lymerick by the said Lord Justice the morrow after the assumption of the blessed Virgin Mary and with the Justice brought to the castle of Dublin the seventh day of October Item Henry Mandevile is apprehended in the month of September and led to the castle of Dublin by vertue of a warrant from Simon Fitz-Richard Justice in the Kings Bench. Item Walter Burck who with his two brethren of whole blood are taken in Connaght by the Earle of Ulster in November and conveied by the same Earle unto the castle of North-burg in the month of Februarie Also the Lord William Bermingham with his son Walter Bermingham are attached at Clomell by the said Justice in the moneth of February notwithstanding the Kings charter or pardon given unto them before by the Justice above named and are brought unto the Castle of Dublin the nineteenth day of Aprill Item the Irish of Leinster made spoile of the English and burnt Churches and in the Church of Freineston they burnt about fourescore men and women and a certain Chaplain of the said Church arraied in his sacred vestiments and with the body of our Lord they repelled backe with their javelins when he would have gone forth and burnt him with the rest in the Church These newes came unto the eares of the Lord Pope who sent his Bull or briefe unto the Archbishop of Dublin commanding him to excommunicate the said Irish and all their adherents together with their retinue and followers and to interdict their lands Now the Archbishop fulfilled the commandement of the Lord Pope but the said Irish contemning the said Bull excommunication interdiction and chastisement of the Church and continuing still in their wickednesse drew themselves againe together and invaded all the county of Weis ford as farre as to Carcarne and spoiled the whole country Whom the English made head against to wit Richard White and Richard Fitz Henry with the Burgesses of Weisford and other English slew of the Irish about 400. and many others of them as they fled were drowned in the river which is called Slane MCCCXXXII William Bermingham is put to death and hanged at Dublin by the said Lord Justice the eleventh day of July and Walter his sonne is set free The foresaid Sir William was a noble Knight and among many thousand knights most renowned and excellent for feats of armes Alas the day great pity it was of him for who relating his death can forbeare teares But at length enterred hee was in Dublin among the preaching Friers Also the castle of Bonraty was forced and rased to the very ground by the Irish of Totomon in July Also the castle of Arclo by the said Justice with the citizens of Dublin and the help of the English within the pale was won from the Irish and in the Kings hand on the eighth day of August
third day of February Also in the parts of Ireland the frost was so vehement that Aven-Liffie the river of Dublin was so frozen that very many danced and leaped upon the Ice of the said river they played at foot-ball and ran courses there yea and they made fires of wood and of turfe upon the same Ice and broyled herrings thereupon This Ice lasted very many dayes And as for the snow also in the parts of Ireland that accompanied the same frost a man need not speake any more seeing it was knowne to lye on such a wonderfull depth This hard time of weather continued from the second day of December unto the tenth day of February the like season was never heard of before especially in Ireland MCCCXXXIX All Ireland was generally up in armes Item an exceeding great slaughter there was of the Irish and a number of them drowned even 1200. at the least by the meanes of the Lord Moris Fitz-Thomas Earle of Desmond and the rest of the Geraldines in the parts of Kernige Item the Lord Moris Fitz-Nicolas Lord of Kernige was apprehended and imprisoned by the Lord Moris Fitz-Thomas Earle of Desmond and died in prison being put to strait diet for that he openly went out and rebelled with the said Irish against the Lord King of England and against the Lord Earle Item a number of the O. Dymcies and other Irish were killed and drowned in the water of Barrow by the English and the hot pursuit of the Earle of Kildare Also a great booty of cattell of sundry sorts and such a booty as had not been seen in the parts of Leinster by the said Lord Thomas Bishop of Hereford and Justice of Ireland and with the helpe of the English of that country was taken from the Irish in the parts of Odrone in the end of February MCCCXL The said Bishop of Hereford and Justice of Ireland being sent for by the King returned into England the tenth day of Aprill leaving in his place Frier Roger Outlaw Priour of Kylmaynon Also this Sir Roger Lord Priour of Kylmainon Justice and Chancellour of the said land died the thirteenth day of February Item the King of England granted by his letters patents unto Iohn Darcy the office of Lord Justice of Ireland for terme of life MCCCXLI Sir John Moris Knight came Lord Justice of Ireland in the moneth of May as Lievtenant unto Iohn Darcy in the foresaid land Item this wondrous prodigie following and such as in our age had not been heard of before hapned in the county of Leinster where a certain waifaring man as he travelled in the Kings high way found a paire of gloves fit as he thought for his owne turne which as he drew upon his hands forthwith instead of a mans voice and speech he kept a strange and marvellous barking like unto a dogge and from that present the elder folke and full growne yea and women too throughout the same county barked like bigge dogges but the children and little ones waughed as small whelpes This plague continued with some 18. daies with others a whole moneth and with some for two yeeres Yea this foresaid contagious malady entred also into the neighbour shires and forced the people in like manner to barke Also the King of England revoked all those gifts and grants that by him or his father had bin conferred by any meanes upon any persons whatsoever in Ireland were they liberties lands or other goods for which revocation great displeasure and discontent arose in the land and so the land of Ireland was at the point to have beene lost for ever out of the King of Englands hand Item by the Kings Councell there was ordained a generall Parliament of Ireland in the moneth of October To the same Parliament Moris Fitz-Thomas Earle of Desmond came not Before which time there was never knowne so notable and manifest a division in Ireland between those that were English by birth and English in blood The Maiors besides of the Kings cities in the same land together with all the better sort of the Nobility and Gentry of the said land with one consent upon mature deliberation and counsell had among other their conclusions decreed and appointed a common Parliament at Kilkenny in November to the utility and profit both of the King and the land before named without asking any counsell at all of the Lord Justice and the Kings officers aforesaid in this behalfe Now the Lord Justice and the rest of the Kings Ministers in no wise presumed to come unto the same Parliament at Kilkenny The Elders therefore of the land aforesaid together with the Ancients and Maiors of the cities agreed and ordained as touching solemne Embassadours to be sent with all speed unto the King of England about relieving the State of the land and to complaine of his Ministers in Ireland as touching their unequall and unjust regiment of the same and that from thenceforth they neither could nor would endure the realme of Ireland to be ruled by his Ministers as it had wont to be And particularly they make complaint of the foresaid Ministers by way of these Questions Imprimis How a land full of warres could be governed by him that was unskilfull in warre Secondly how a Minister or Officer of the Kings should in a short time grow to so great wealth Thirdly how it came to passe that the King was never the richer for Ireland MCCCXLII The eleventh day of October when the moone was eleven dayes old there were seen by many men at Dublin 2. moones in the firmament well and early before day The one was according to the course of nature in the West and appeared bright the other to the quantity of a round loafe appeared in the East casting but a meane and slender light MCCCXLIII St. Thomas street in Dublin was casually burnt with fire upon the feast of S. Valentine Martyr Item the 13. day of July the Lord Ralph Ufford with his wife the Countesse of Ulster came Lord chiefe Justice of Ireland Upon whose entring the faire weather changed sodainly into a distemperature of the aire and from that time there ensued great store of raine with such abundance of tempestuous stormes untill his dying day None of his predecessours in the times past was with griefe be it spoken comparable unto him For this Justicer bearing the office of Justice-ship became an oppressor of the people of Ireland a robber of the goods both of Clergy and Laity of rich and poore alike a defrauder of many under the colour of doing good not observing the rights of the Church nor keeping the lawes of the kingdome offering wrongs to the naturall inhabitants ministring justice to few or none and altogether distrusting some few onely excepted the inborne dwellers in the land These things did hee still and attempted the like misled by the counsell and perswasion of his wife Item the said Justice entring into Ulster in the moneth of March through a Pas called Emerdullan
was fiercely set upon by Mac-Carton the which Mac-Carton verily having encountred with the said Justice spoiled him of his clothes mony utensils silver plate and horses yea and slew some of his men But in the end the foresaid Justice with the helpe of the men of Ergale got the victory and entred into the parts of Ulster MCCCXLV The seventh of Iune a common Parliament was holden at Dublin unto which the Lord Moris Fitz Thomas came not Item the Lord Ralph Ufford Justice of Ireland after the feast of S. John Baptist with the Kings standard raised yet without the assent of the Elders of the land against the Lord Moris Fitz-Thomas Earle of Desmond marcheth forthwith into Mounster and there seized into the Kings hands the Earles lands and these lands so seized letteth out to farme unto others for a certain yeerly rent to be carried unto the King Item the said Justice being in the parts of Mounster delivered unto Sir William Burton Knight two writs the one whereof the said William should deliver unto the Lord Moris Fitz-Thomas Earle of Kildare the contents of which was this That upon paine of forfeiting all his lands he should with all speed repaire unto him to aid the King and him with a strong power Now in the other writ contained it was that the said Sir William should apprehend the said Earle of Kildare and so apprehended commit him to prison But Sir William seeing that this could not possibly be brought about and effected accordingly by himselfe with colourable words framed for the nonce perswaded the said Earle whiles he was preparing himselfe with his army and levying a power unto the foresaid Justice that before his departure out of the countrey hee should repaire unto the Kings Counsell at Dublin and that by the unanimity and joint counsell of the same so deale as to provide for the safe keeping of his owne lands in his absence and if after that any hurt should befall unto his lands whiles he was absent it should be imputed unto the Kings counsell and not to him The Earle therefore giving credit unto the Knights words and thinking of no treacherous practice in this behalfe disposed and addressed himself to come unto Dublin When he was come altogether ignorant of any treachery toward whiles himselfe sat in consultation with others of the King Councell in the Exchequer-court sodainly he was by the said Sir William betraied attached or arrested and apprehended and brought to the castle of the said city and there clapt up in prison Item the said Justice entred with his army the parts of O. Comill in Mounster and by a treacherous device taketh two castles of the Earle of Desmonds to wit the castle of Yniskisty and the castle of the Iland in which castle of the Iland thus taken the Knights being within the said castle namely Sir Eustacele Bâ—re Sir William Graunt and Sir Iohn Cotterell were first drawne and afterward in October openly hanged untill they were dead Also the said Earle of Desmond with some other of his Knights were by the said Justice banished The foresaid Justice having attchieved these exploits in Mounster returned in the moneth of November with his company unto his wife then great with child remaining at Kilmaynon which is neere to Dublin over and beside those things which had beene done against the Laity by inditing and emprisoning some of them and turning them out of their goods he also caused the Ecclesiasticall persons as well Priests as Clerkes to be endited and standing endited attached and imprisoned them and fetched no small summes of money out of their purses Item as touching the grants and demises of their lands to wit whom before hee had deprived of their lands he bestowed the same upon divers tenants as hath beene said as also the very writings concerning those grants so sealed as they were by him and with the Kings seale he revoked tooke the same from them cancelled defaced and wholly annulled them Item all the mainpernours of the said Earle of Desmond in number twenty sixe as well Earles as Barons Knights and others of the countrey whose names be these to wit Lord William Burke Earle of Ulster Lord Iames Botiller Earle of Ormond Sir Richard Tuit Knight Sir Eustace Le Poer Knight Sir Gerald De Rochfort Knight Sir Iohn Fitz-Robert Poer Knight Sir Robert Barry Knight Sir Moris Fitz-Gerald Knight Sir Iohn Wellesley Knight Sir Walter Lenfaunt Knight Sir Roger de la Rokell Knight Sir Henry Traharn Knight Sir Roger Pover Knight Sir Iohn Lenfaunt Knight Sir Roger Pover Knight Sir Matthew Fitz-Henry Knight Sir Richard Wallis Knight Sir Edward Burk Knight the sonne of the Earle of Ulster David Barry William Fitz-Gerald Fulke Ash Robert Fitz-Moris Henry Barkley Iohn Fitz-George Roch and Thomas de Lees de Burgh their own travels and proper expences which some of them with the said Justice in his warre had beene at and in pursuing the said Earle of Desmond notwithstanding he by definitive sentence deprived of their lands and dis-inherited and awarded their bodies to the Kings pleasure excepting foure persons only of all the foresaid sureties whose names be these William Burk Earle of Ulster Iames Botiller Earle of Ormond c. MCCCXLVI Upon Palme-Sunday which fell out to be the ninth day of Aprill the above named Lord Ralph Ufford Justice of Ireland went the way of all flesh for whose death his owne dependants together with his wife sorrowed not a little for whose death also the loiall subjects of Ireland rejoice no lesse The Clergy and people both of the land for joy of his departure out of this life with merry hearts doe leap and celebrate a solemn feast of Easter At whose death the floods ceased and the distemperature of the aire had an end and in one word the common sort truely and heartily praise the onely Son of God Well when this Justice now dead was once fast folded within a sheet and a coffin of lead the foresaid Countesse with his treasure not worthy to be bestowed among such holy reliques in horrible griefe of heart conveied his bowels over into England there to be enterred And againe in the month of May and on the second day of the same month behold a prodigious wonder sent no doubt miraculously from God above For lo she that before at her comming entred the city of Dublin so gloriously with the Kings armes and ensignes attended upon with a number of souldiers in her guard and traine along the streets of the said city and so from that time forward a small while though it were living royally with her friends about her like a Queen in the Iland of Ireland now at her going forth of the same city privily by a posternegate of the castle to avoid the clamour of the common people calling upon her for debts in her retire homeward to her owne countrey departed in disgrace sad and mournfull with the dolefull badges of death sorrow and heavinesse Item after the
death of the said Justice of Ireland the Lord Roger Darcy with the assent of the Kings Ministers and others of the same land is placed in the office of Justice for the time Also the castles of Ley and Kylmehede are taken by the Irish and burnt in the moneth of April Item Lord Iohn Moris commeth chiefe Justice of Ireland the fifteenth day of May. Also the Irish of Ulster gave a great overthrow unto the English of Urgale wherin were slaine three hundred at the least in the moneth of June Also the said Lord Iohn Moris Justice of Ireland is discharged by the King of England from that office of Justiceship and the Lord Walter Bermingham set in the same office by the foresaid King and a little after the foresaid slaughter committed entreth with Commission into Ireland in the month of June Item unto the Lord Moris Fitz-Thomas Earle of Desmond the maintenance of peace for a certain time is granted by the King of England Which being granted upon the Vigill of the exaltation of the holy Crosse hee together with his wife and two sonnes take sea at the haven of Yoghal and crosseth over into England where he followeth the law hard and requireth instantly to have justice for the wrongs done unto him by Raulph Ufford late Lord Justice of Ireland above named Item unto the said Earle by commandement and order from the Lord King of England there are granted from his entrance into England twenty shillings a day and so day by day still is allowed for his expences Also the Lord Walter Bermingham Justice of Ireland and the Lord Moris Fitz-Thomas Earle of Kildare rose up in armes against O-Merda and his complices who burnt the Castle of Ley and Kilmehed and they with their forces valiantly set upon and invade him and his complices spoiling killing and burning in so much as the said O-Morda and his complices although at the first they had manfully and resolutely made resistance there with many thousands of the Irish after many wounds and a great slaughter committed were constrained in the end to yeeld and so they submitted to the Kings grace and mercy and betake themselves full and whole unto the said Earles devotion MCCCXLVII The Earle of Kildare with his Barons and Knights goeth unto the King of England in the moneth of May to aide him lying then at the siege of Caleys Also the towne of Caleys was by the inhabitants upon the fourth day of June rendred up into the King of Englands hands Item Walter Bonevile William Calfe William Welesley and many other noble Gentlemen and valiant Knights as well of England as of Ireland died of the sicknesse in Caleys Also Mac-Murgh to wit Donald Mac-Murgh the sonne of Donald Art Mac-Murgh King of Leinster upon the fifth day of June is treacherously slain by his own people More Moris Fitz-Thomas Earle of Kildare is by the King of England made Knight Also the towne called Monaghan with all the territorie adjoining is by the Irish burnt on the feast day of S. Stephen Martyr Item Dame Joane Fitz-Leoues sometime wife to the Lord Simon Genevile departed this life and is buried in the Covent Church of the Friers Preachers of Trim the second day of Aprill MCCCXLVIII And in the 22. yeere of King Edward the third reigned the first pestilence and most of all in Ireland which had begunne afore in other Countries Item in this yeere Walter Lord Bermingham Lord Justice of Ireland came into England and left Iohn Archer Prior of Kylmainon his Lievtenant in his roome And he returneth againe in the same yeere Justice as before and the King conferred upon the same Walter the Barony of Kenlys which is in Osserie because he led a great army against the Earle of Desmond with Raulfe Ufford as before is said which Barony belonged in times past unto the Lord Eustace Pover who was attainted and hanged at the castle of the Isle MCCCXLIX Lord Walter Bermingham the best Justice of Ireland that ever was gave up his office of Justiceship after whom succeeded the Lord Carew Knight and Baron both MCCCL. And in the 25. yeere of the foresaid King Edward Sir Thomas Rokesby Knight was made Lord Justice of Ireland Item Sir Walter Bermingham Knight Lord Bermingham that right good Justice sometime of Ireland died in the Even of S. Margaret Virgin in England MCCCLI Kenwrick Sherman sometime Maior of the Citie of Dublin died and was buried under the Belfray of the preaching Friers of the same City which Belfray and Steeple himselfe erected and glazed a window at the head of the Quire and caused the roofe of the Church to be made with many more good deeds In the same Covent he departed I say the sixth day of March and at his end he made his Will or Testament amounting to the value of three thousand Marks and bequeathed many good Legacies unto the Priests of the Church both religious and secular that were within twenty miles about the City MCCCLII Sir Robert Savage Knight began in Ulster to build new castles in divers places and upon his owne Manours who while he was a building said unto his sonne and heire Sir Henry Savage let us make strong walls about us lest happily the Irish come and take away our place destroy our kinred and people and so we shall be reproached of all Nations Then answered his sonne where ever there shall be valiant men there is a Castle and Fortresse too according to that saying The sonnes encamped that is to say valiant men are ordained for warre and therefore will I be among such hardy men and so shall I be in a castle and therewith said in his vulgar speech A castle of Bones is better than a castle of Stones Then his father in a fume and chafe gave over his worke and swore an oath that he would never build with stone and morter but keepe a good house and a very great family and retinew of servants about him but he prophesied withall that hereafter his sonnes and posterity should grieve and waile for it which indeed came to passe for the Irish destroyed all that country for default of castles MCCCLV And in the thirty yeere of the same King Sir Thomas Rokesby Knight went out of his office of Justice the sixe and twenty day of July after whom succeeded Moris Fitz-Thomas Earle of Desmund and continued in the office untill his death Item on the day of Saint Pauls conversion the same Lord Moris Fitz-Thomas died Justice of Ireland in the castle of Dublin not without great sorrow of his friends and kinsfolke and no lesse feare and trembling of all other Irish that loved peace First he was buried in the quire of the preaching Friers of Dublin and at last enterred in the Covent Church of the Friers Preachers of Traly This man was a righteous Justicer in that hee stucke not to hang up those of his owne blood for theft and rapine and misdemeanours even as soone as strangers
Bartholomew Verdon James White Stephen Gernon and their complices slew John Dowdal Sheriffe of Louth MCCCCIII In the fourth yeere of King Henry the fourth and in the moneth of May was killed Sir Walter Beterley a valiant Knight then Sheriffe there and with him thirty men In the same yeere about the feast of S. Martin there passed over into England Thomas the Kings sonne leaving Stephen Scroop his Deputy who also himself upon the first day of Lent returned into England and then the Lords of the land chose the Earle of Ormond Lord Justice of Ireland MCCCCIV In the fifth yeere of King Henry died Iohn Cowlton Archbishop of Armagh the fifth of May whom Nicholas Fleming succeeded The same yeere on S. Vitalis day began a Parliament at Dublin before the Earle of Ormond then Lord Justice of Ireland wherein where confirmed the Statutes of Kilkenny and of Dublin also the charter of Ireland In the same yeere Patrick Savage in Ulster was treacherously slaine by Mac-Kilmori and Richard his brother given for an hostage who likewise was murdred in prison after he had payed two hundred Marks MCCCCV In the sixth yeere of King Henry and in the month of May were taken three Scottish Galions or Barkes two at Green-castle and one at Dalkey with the captaine Thomas Mac-Golagh The same yeere the merchants of Tredaght entred Scotland tooke pledges and preies The same yeere Stephen Scroope crossed the seas into England leaving the Earle of Ormond Lord Justice of Ireland And the same yeere in the month of June the Dublinians entred Scotland at Saint Ninians and there behaved themselves manfully then landed they in Wales and did much hurt to the Welshmen there yea and carried away the Shrine of S. Cubie unto the Church of the holy Trinitie in Dublin Also the same yeere on the Vigill of the blessed Virgin died James Botiller Earle of Ormond whiles he was Lord Justice to the griefe of many at Baligauran unto whom there succeeded in the office of Lord Justice Gerald Earle of Kildare MCCCCVI And in the seventh yeere of King Henry on Corpus Christi day the Dublinians with the people of the Countrey about them manfully overcame the Irish and killed some of them they tooke three ensignes and carried away divers of their heads to Dublin The same yeere the Prior of Conall fought valiantly in the plaine of Kildare and vanquished two hundred Irish well armed killing some and putting others to flight there were in the Priors company not above twenty English and thus God regardeth those that repose trust in him In the same yeere after the feast of S. Michael Sir Stephen Scroop Deputy Justice under the Lord Thomas the Kings sonne Lievtenant of Ireland entred into Ireland The same yeere died Pope Innocentius the seventh after whom succeeded Pope Gregory The same yeere beganne a Parliament at Dublin on Saint Hilaries day which ended at Trym in Lent and Meiler Bermingham slew Cathol O-Conghir in the end of February and Sir Gefferey Vaulx a noble Knight in the countie of Carlagh died MCCCCVII A certaine Irishman a most false villaine named Mac-Adam Mac-Gilmori who caused fortie Churches to be destroied one that was never christened and therefore termed Corbi tooke Patricke Savage prisoner and received of him for his ransome two thousand Marks and yet killed him afterwards with his brother Richard The same yeere in the feast of the exaltation of the Holy Crosse Stephen Scroop Deputy under Thomas the Kings sonne Lievtenant of Ireland accompanied with the Earles of Ormond and Desmond and the Prior of Kylmaynon with many out of Meth set forth from Dublin and in hostile manner invaded the land of Mac-Murgh where the Irish had the better of the field in the forepart of the day but afterwards they were manfully by the said Captaines repulsed where O-Nolam with his sonne and others were taken prisoners But hearing then and there that the Burkeins and O-Keroll in the countie of Kilkenny had for two daies together done much mischiefe sodainly the said Captaines rode in all haste with bridle on horse necke unto the towne of Callan and there meeting with the said enemies manfully put them to flight O-Keroll and to the number of eight hundred they killed in the place The same yeere Stephen Scroop sailed over into England and Iames Butler Earle of Ormond was by the country chosen Lord Justice of Ireland MCCCCVIII The said L. Justice held a Parliament at Dublin in which Parliament were confirmed the Statutes of Kilkenny and of Dublin and a Charter granted under the great seale of England against Purveyouris The same yeere the morrow after S. Peters day ad Vincula the Lord Thomas of Lancaster the Kings sonne arrived as Lievtenant of Ireland at Cartingford and in the weeke following came to Dublin and arrested the Earle of Kildare as he came unto him with three of his house and all his goods he lost by the servants of the said Lievtenant and in the castle of Dublin he imprisoned him untill he made paiment of 300. Marks for a fine The same yeere on Saint Marcellus day died the Lord Stephen Scroop at Tristel-Dermot The same yeere the said Thomas of Lancaster was wounded at Kylmainon and hardly escaped death and afterwards caused Proclamation to be made that whosoever by his tenures owed service to the King should appeare at Rosse And after Saint Hilaries feast he held a Parliament at Kilkenny for to have a tallage granted And afterwards upon the third day before the Ides of March he passed over into England leaving the Prior of Kylmainon his Deputy in Ireland In this yeere Hugh Mac-Gilmory was slaine at Cragfergus within the Oratory or Church of the Friers Minors which Church he before had destroyed and broken the glasse windowes thereof for to have the iron barres therein at which his enemies to wit the Savages entred MCCCCIX In the tenth yeere of King Henry and in the month of June Ianico of Artoys with the English slew fourescore of the Irish in Ulster MCCCCX On the thirteenth day of June began a Parliament at Dublin and continued three weeks the Prior of Kylmainon sitting as Lord Justice The same yeere on the tenth day of July the same Justice beganne the castle of Mibracly in O-Feroll and built De la Mare and a great dearth there was of corne In the same yeere the Justice entred the land of O-brin with a thousand and five hundred kernes of whom eight hundred departed unto the Irish and had not the Dublinians beene there there would have beene wailing and many a woe and yet Iohn Derpatrick lost his life there MCCCCXII About the feast of Tiburce and Valerian O-Conghir did much harm to the Irish in Meth and tooke prisoner 160. men The same yeere O-Doles a knight and Thomas Fitz-Moris Sheriffe of Limerik killed one another In the same yeere the ninth of June died Robert Monteyn Bishop of Meth after whom succeeded Edward Dandisey sometime Archdeacon of
Lievtenant there 300. markes and the Parliament was adjourned eftsoones unto the munday after St. Ambrose day Then rumours resounded that the Lord Thomas Fitz-Iohn Earle of Desmund died at Paris on St. Laurence feast day and was buried there at the Friers Preachers covent the King of England being present at his funerals After whom succeeded in that Seigniorie James Fitz-Gerald his Unkle by the fathers side who had three times thrust him out of his patrimonie and laid an imputation upon him that he was a prodigall spend-thrift and had wasted his patrimony both in Ireland and England and that he gave or would give lands to the Abbey of St. Iames at Kernisham 1421. The Parliament began upon prorogation the third time at Dublin the munday after the feast of S. Ambrose and there certain persons were ordained to be sent in message to the King as touching the redresse of the land namely the Archbishop of Armagh and Sir Christopher Preston Knight At the same time Richard O-Hedian Bishop of Cassell was accused by John Gese Bishop of Lismore and Waterford upon thirtie Articles laid to his charge After all that hee charged him that hee made very much of the Irish and loved none of the English that hee bestowed no benefice upon any Englishman and gave order likewise unto other Bishops that they should not conferre the least living that was upon them Item that hee counterfeited the King of Englands seale and the Kings letters patents that he went about to make himselfe King of Mounster also that he tooke a ring away from the image of S. Patrick which the Earle of Desmund had offered and bestowed it upon an harlot of his beside many other enormities which he exhibited in writing And the Lords and Commons were much troubled betweene these twaine Now in the same Parliament there was debate between Adam Pay Bishop of Clon and another Prelate for that the said Adam went about to unite the others Church unto his but the other would not and so they were sent and referred unto the Court of Rome and this Parliament lasted 18. daies In the Nones of May there was a slaughter committed by O-Mordris upon the family or retinue of the Earle of Ormund Lievtenant neere unto the Monastery of Leys where were slaine of the English 27. The principall parties were Purcell and Grant Then Gentlemen of good birth were taken prisoners and 200. fled unto the foresaid Monastery and so were saved In the Ides of May died Sir Iohn Bodley Knight and Geffery Galon sometime Maior of Dublin and was buried in the house of the preaching Friers of the same City About this time Mac-Mahon an Irishman played the divell in Urgal wasting and burning where ever he went The seventh of Iune the Lievtenant entred into the country to wit of Leys against O-Mordis and led thither a most puissant army having the killing of his enemies for foure daies together and untill the Irish promised all peace and quietnesse Upon the feast of Michael the Archangel Thomas Stanley accompanied with all the Knights and Squires of Meth and Iriel took Moyle O-Downyll prisoner and slew others in the 14. yeere of King Henry the sixth his reigne Thus far forth were continued the Annales of Ireland which came to my hands and upon which I have bestowed these few pages to gratifie them that may delight therein As for the nice and dainty readers who would have all writings tried to the touch of Augustus his dayes I know they can yeeld no pleasing rellish to them in regard of the harsh words and the saplesse dry stile familiar unto that age wherein they were penned Neverthelesse I would have those to remember That HISTORIE both beareth brooketh and requireth the Authors of all ages Also That they are to look as well for reall and substantiall knowledge from some as for the verball and literall learning from others THE SMALLER ILANDS IN THE BRITISH OCEAN NOw will I at length waigh anchor and set saile out of Ireland and lanching forth take survey of the Ilands scattered here and there along the coasts of Britaine If I durst repose any trust in my selfe or if I were of any sufficiencie I would shape my course to every one But sith it is my purpose to discover and inlighten Antiquity such as are obscure and of lesse account I will lightly coast by and those that carry any ancient name and reckoning above the rest I will enter and visite yea and make some short stay in them that now at last in a good and happy houre they may recover their ancienty againe And that in this voiage I may at first set out orderly and take a straight and direct course I will to begin saile out of Ireland into the Severn sea and by the Irish sea after I have doubled the utmost point of Scotland follow my course down into the Germai◠Ocean and so from thence through the British sea which extendeth as far as to Spaine hold on my race as prosperously as I can But I am afraid lest this my ship of Antiquity steared by me so unskilfull a Pilot either run and be split upon the rockes of errours or else be overwhelmed with the waves of ignorance yet venter I must 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 saith Antiphilus 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Adventure is a good sea Captain and he that saileth the same voiage a second time may haply speed much better and finish his desired course First and formost because it seemeth not impertinent to my matter I will set down what Plutarch out of a fabulous narration of Demetrius who seemeth to have lived in Hadrians time reporteth generally as touching the Ilands lying neer to Britain Demetrius made report that most of those Ilands which coast upon Britain lie desert desolate and scattering here and there whereof somewere dedicated to the Daemones and Heroes also that himself by commission from the Emperour sailed toward one that was neerest of those desert Iles for to know and discover somewhat the which he found to have in a few inhabitants and those he understood were reputed by the Britans sacred and inviolable Within a while after he was landed there the aire and weather as he said became foully troubled many portenteous signes were given by terrible tempests with extra-ordinary stormes flashing and violent lightnings and fiery impressions which after they were appeased the Ilanders certified him that some one of great eminency was dead And a little after Now he said moreover that there was a certain Iland there wherein Saturn was by Briareus closed up and kept in prison sound asleep for sleep was the means to hold him captive about whose person there were many Daemones at his feet that stood attending as servitours Thus they took pleasure in old time as now also at this day boldly to devise strange wonders and tales of places far remote in a certain secure veine of lying as it were by authoritie In the narrow sea
by all But when the Nations from the North like violent tempests overflowed these South parts it became subject to the Scots For under the Emperours Honorius and Arcadius as wee read in Orosius it was inhabited as well as Ireland by the Scottish Nations and Ninnius hath written that one Biule a Scot was Lord of it But as the same writer recordeth the Scots were driven out of all the British countries and Ilands by Cuneda Grandfather of Maglocunus whom Gildas for the foule work that he made in these Ilands tearmed the Dragon of the Iles. After this Edwin King of Northumberland brought this Iland like as the foresaid Anglesey under the subjection of the English if we understand them both by the name of Menaviae as writers perswade us at which time it was reckoned an Iland of the Britans But when the North had sent abroad his brood the second time I meane the Normans Danes and Norwegians these Norwegians who with their manifold robberies and roveries did most hurt from the Northren sea tooke up their haunt into this Iland and the Hebrides and therein erected Lords and Petty Kings whose briefe history I will here put downe word for word out of an old Manuscript lest it should be utterly lost which is intituled The Chronicle of Man seeming to have been written by the Monks of the Abbey of Russin which was the principall place of religion in this Isle A CHRONICLE OF THE KINGS OF MAN ANno Domini MLXV Edward of blessed memory King of England departed this life after whom succeeded in the kingdome Harald the son of Godwin against whom Harald Harfager King of Norway came into the field and fought a battell at Stainford-bridge and the English obtaining the victory put them all to flight out of which chace Godred surnamed Crovan the son of Harald the black of Iseland came unto Godred the sonne of Syrric who then reigned in Man and by him was honourably received The same yeere William the BASTARD conquered England and Godred the sonne of Syrric died after whom succeeded his sonne Fingal MLXVI Godred Crovan assembled a great fleet and came to Man fought with the people of the land but was overcome and put to rout A second time hee rallied his forces and his fleet sailed into Man joined battell with the Manksmen was vanquished and driven out of the field A third time he gathered a great multitude together and by night arrived in the haven called Ramsa and hid three hundred men within a wood which stood upon the hanging hollow brow of an hill called Scacafel Now when the sunne was risen the Manksmen put their people in order of battell and with a violent charge encountred with Godred And when the fight was hot those three hundred men starting out of the ambush behind their backes began to foile the Manksmen and put them to the worst yea and forced them to flye Now when they saw themselves discomfited and no place for them of refuge to escape for the sea water comming in with the tide had filled the channell of Ramsa river and the enemies on the other side followed the chace hard they that then remained alive tooke up a pitifull cry and besought Godred to save their lives And he moved with compassion pittying their wofull calamity as who for a certain time had beene nursed and brought up among them sounded the retrait and forbad his hoast to pursue them any longer Goared the morrow after proposed this choice unto his owne army whether they would rather divide Man among themselves and therein dwell or only take the substance and pillage of the countrey and so returne unto their owne homes But they chose rather to wast and spoile the whole Iland and with the goods thereof to enrich themselves and so returne home But Godred himselfe with those few Ilanders that remained with him inhabited the South part of the Iland and granted to the remaines of the Manksmen the North part with this covenant and condition That none of them should at any time venture and presume to challenge any part of the land by right of inheritance Whereby it came to passe that even unto this day the whole Isle is the Kings domain alone and all the revenues thereof belonging unto the crown Godred then reduced Dublin and a great part of Leymistir under his subjection As for the Western Scottish he so over-awed them as that no man who built ship or cog-boat durst drive into it above three nailes Now he reigned 16. yeeres and died in the Iland that is called Yle He left behind him verily three sons Lagman Harald and Olave Lagman the eldest taking upon him the kingdome reigned seven yeeres And Harald his brother a great while rebelled against him but at length being taken prisoner by Lagman he had his members of generation cut off and his eyes plucked out of his head After this Lagman repenting himselfe that he had pulled out his brothers eyes gave over the kingdome of his owne accord and wearing the badge of the Lords Crosse took a journey to Jerusalem in which he died MLXXV. All the Nobles and Lords of the Islands hearing of the death of Lagman dispatched their Embassadors to Murecard O-Brien King of Ireland requesting that hee would send some industrious and worthy man of the blood royall to be their King untill Olave Godreds sonne came to full age The King very willingly yeelded to their requests and sent unto them one Dopnald the sonne of Tade warning and charging him to govern the kingdome which by right belonged unto another with all gentlenesse and modesty But he after he was come to the Crowne not weighing of the charge that his Lord and M. gave him abused his place and lorded with great tyranny and so committing many outrages and villanies reigned cruelly three yeers Then all the Princes of the Ilands agreed together in one conspiracy rose up against him and expelled him out of their coasts Who fled into Ireland and never looked them in the face after MLXXVII One Ingemund was sent from the King of Norway to take upon him the dominion of the Ilands and when he was come to the Isle Leodus he sent messengers to all the Nobles of the Ilands with a commandement that they should meet together and ordain him their King Mean while himselfe with his companions did nothing else but rob spoile make good cheere and banquet dishonour and abuse married wives defloure young maidens yea and give himselfe over to filthy pleasures and fleshly lusts But when tidings hereof came to the Nobles of the Ilands now assembled to make him King they were set on fire with furious wrath and sped themselves in all hast toward him and surprising him in the night burnt the house wherein hee was and with fire and sword made a quick dispatch of him and his company MXCVIII The Abbey of S. Mary at Cistertium or Cisteaux was founded Antioch was won by the Christians and a
Comet or blazing star appeared The same yeere there was a field fought between those of the Isle of Man at Sâ—antwas and the Northren men got the victorie In which battell were slaine Earle Oiher and Mac-Moras Generals of both the sides In the same yeere Magnus King of Norway the son of Olave son of Harald Harfager desirous to try whether the corps of S. Olave King and Martyr remained uncorrupt commanded that his tombe should be opened and notwithstanding the Bishop and Clergy withstood it the King himselfe came boldly thither and by force that he brought with him caused the coffin to be opened Now when he had both seene and handled the body uncorrupt and nothing perished sodainly there was a great feare fell upon him and in all haste he departed thence The next night following Olave King and Martyr appeared unto him in a dreame saying thus Chuse thou one of these two things either to lose thy life and kingdome both within thirty daies or to depart from Norway and never see it againe When the King awakened he called unto him his Princes and Elders and declared unto them his dreame and vision and they being sore affraid gave him this counsell to depart with all speed out of Norway He without delay caused a fleet to be rigged and put in readinesse of an hundred and threescore saile and cutteth over to the Isles of Orkney which he forthwith subdued making way by dint of sword thorowout all the Iles and bringing them to his subjection went forward still as far as to Man and when he was arrived and landed he came unto St. Patrickes Isle to see the place wherein the field had beene fought a little before betweene the Manksmen because as yet many of their bodies that were slaine lay there unburied Now when he saw this most goodly and beautifull Iland it pleased his eye and he chose it to seat himselfe therein built fortresses in it which unto this day carry his name And those of Galway he held in so great awe that he compelled them to cut downe wood for timber and to bring it unto the shore that therewith he might build his Forts and Bulwarkes To Anglesey then called Mona an Iland in Wales hee sailed and found in it two Earles by the name of Hughes the one he slew the other he put to flight and subdued the Iland But the Welshmen presented him with many gifts and so he bad them farwell and returned unto Man Unto Murcard King of Ireland he sent his shooes and commanded him to carry them on his shoulders through the middest of his house on Christmas day that he might thereby understand he was subject unto King Magnus Which the Irishmen as soone as they heard of it took grievously and disdained exceeding much But the King following a wiser course I had rather saith he not onely carry his shooes but also eat them than King Magnus should destroy one Province in Ireland Hee fulfilled therefore his commandement and honourably entreated his messengers Many presents also hee sent over by them unto King Magnus and entred into league with him These messengers being returned unto their Lord related unto him many things touching the situation of Ireland the pleasantnesse thereof the abundance of corne and wholsomnesse of aire When Magnus heard this straightwaies he thought of nothing else but to conquer Ireland and bring it wholly under his dominion He commanded therefore his men to prepare a navie and himselfe in person setting forward with sixteene ships desirous to take a view of the countrey as he unwarily departed aside from his shipping was suddenly compassed about by the Irish and so lost his life together with all those in manner that were with him And he was buried hard by S. Patricks Church in Doun Hee reigned sixe yeeres after whose death the Princes of the Ilands sent for Olave the son of Godred surnamed Crovan who lived in the Court of Henry King of England son of King William MCII. Olave the sonne of Godred Crovan aforesaid beganne his reigne and reigned forty yeeres a peaceable Prince having all the Kings of Ireland and Scotland to be his confederates Hee tooke to wife Affrica the daughter of Ferguse of Gallway of whom he begat Gadred By his concubines he had Regnald Lagman and Harald beside many daughters whereof one was wedded to Summerled Prince of Herergaidel who was the cause of the ruine of the whole Kings of the Ilands On her he begat foure sonnes Dulgall Raignald Engus and Olave MCXXXIII There hapned so great an Eclipse of the Sun upon the fourth Nones of August that the day was turned into night MCXXXIV Olave gave unto Yuo Abbat of Furnes a plot of his land in Man to build an Abbay in a place called Russin and both enriched with revenues and endowed with priviledges the estate of the Church in the Ilands MCXLII Godred Olaves son saileth over sea to the King of Norway whose name was Hinge and did his homage unto him and staied there being honourably entertained of him The same yeere three sonnes of Harald Olaves brother who had been brought up in Dublin raising a great number of men together and all those who were fled from the King came to Man demanding of the same King to have the one moity of the whole kingdome of the Ilands to bee given unto them But the King when he had heard their demand being willing to pacifie them answered That hee would take counsell of the matter Now when they had appointed the time and place where the counsell should bee held in the meane while those most leud and wicked villaines complotted among themselves the Kings death At the day appointed both parts met at the haven which is called Ramsa and sat in order by rowes the King with his counsell on the one side and they together with their company on the other and Reginald who was to dispatch him was in the midst between and stood talking apart with one of the Peeres of the land But when the King had called him and he was come unto him he turned toward the King as though hee would salute him and therewith lifting up a glittering axe a great height at one blow cut off the Kings head And forthwith as soone as they had committed such a bloody murder they divided the land among themselves and after some few daies having gathered a navie together failed over to Galway desirous to bring it also under their subjection But those of Galway sticking close and round together gave a faire onset and joined battell with them They by and by turning their backes fled in great disorder to Man And as for all the Galwaymen that dwelt therein some of them they slew others they expelled MCXLIII Godred Olaves son returning out of Norway was created King of Man and to avenge his fathers death he caused two of Haralds sons to have their eies pulled out and slew the third MCXLIV Godred begun his reigne
and reigned thirty yeeres In the third yeere of his reigne the people of Dublin sent for him and created him King of Dublin against whom Mure-card King of Ireland raised war and encamping himselfe before the Citie which is called Coridelis sent his halfe brother by the mothers side Osibeley with three thousand men of armes to Dublin who was by Godred and the Dublinians slaine and all the rest put to flight These exploits atchieved Godred returned to Man began to use tyranny and turned Noblemen out of their inheritances whereof one called Thorsin Oters Son mightier than the rest came to Sumerled and made Dubgall Sumerleds son King of the Ilands subduing unto him many Ilands When Godred had intelligence of these things by one Paul he prepared a navie and setteth forward to meet with Sumerled who was comming with a fleet of 80. saile And in the yeere 1156. there was a battell fought at sea on Twelfe day at night and after many a man slaine on both sides the next day after they grew to a pacification and divided among themselves the kingdome of the Ilands and so it became two severall kingdomes from that very day unto this present time And this was the cause of the overthrow of the kingdome of the Isles since time that Sumerleds son seized upon it MCLVIII Sumerled came to Man with a fleet of 53. saile put Godred to flight wasted the Iland Godred then crossed over to Norway to seek for aid against Sumerled MCLXIV Sumerled gathered together a fleet of 1060. ships and arrived at Rhinfrin coveting to subdue all Scotland But by the just judgement of God hee was vanquished by a few together with his sonne and an infinite number of people there slain The same yeere there was a field fought at Ramsae betweene Reginald brother of Godred and them of Man and by the deceitfull practice of a certaine Earle those of Man were put to flight Then Reginald began to reigne and on the fourth day after came Godred upon him out of Norway with a great multitude of armed men and tooke his brother Reginald whom he bereft both of his eyes and of his genitall members The same yeere died Malcolm King of Scotland and his brother William succeeded him in the kingdome MCLXVI Two Comets or blazing stars appeared before Sun-rising in the Moneth of August the one in the South the other in the North. MCLXXI Richard Earle of Penbrock sailed over into Ireland and subdued Develin with a great part of Ireland MCLXXVI John Curey conquered Ulster and Vivian Legate of the Apostolicke Sea came into Man and caused King Godred to bee lawfully espoused unto his wife Phingola daughter of Mac-Lotlen son to Murkartac King of Ireland to wit the mother of Olave then three yeers old Sylvan the Abbat married them unto whom the very same day Godred gave a piece of land at Miriscoge where he built a Monastery but at length the ground was together with the Monkes granted to the Abbey of Russin Reginald sonne to Eac-Marcat one of the royall blood comming into Man with a great band of men in the Kings absence at the first conflict put to flight certain warders that kept the shore and killed about 30. men Afterwards the Manksmen gathering their forces together the same day slew him and almost all his company MCLXXXIII O-Fogolt was Sheriffe of Man MCLXXXV There fell out to be an Eclipse of the Sun on Saint Philip and Jacobs day MCLXXXVII On the fourth Ides of November died Godred King of the Ilands and the next Summer was his body translated to the Isle of Hy. He left behind him three sonnes Reginald Olave and Tvar In his life he ordained his sonne Olave to be his heire because hee onely was borne in lawfull wedlock But the people of Man seeing that Olave was now scarce ten yeeres old sent for Reginald out of the Iles and set him up for their King MCLXXXVIII Reginald Godreds son began to raigne over the Ilands and Murchard a man of great power throughout all the kingdome of the Iles was slaine MCXCII A battell was fought betweene Reginald and Engus the sonnes of Sumerled but Engus won the victory The same yeere was the Abbey of Russin translated to Dufglas but after foure yeeres the Monks returned to Russin MCCIII Michael Bishop of the Isles died at Fontans after whom succeeded Nicolas MCCIV. Hugh Lacy came with an army into Ulster and gave John Curcy battell tooke him prisoner and conquered Ulster Afterward hee set John at liberty who came to King Reginald and he honourably entertained him because he was his brother in law for John Curcy had taken to wife Affrica Godreds daughter who founded the Abbey of S. Mary de Iugo Domini and was there buried MCCV. John Curcy and Reginald King of the Iles having entred into Ulster with one hundred ships in the haven which is called Stranford slackly besieged the fortresse of Rath but Walter Lacy comming upon them with an army put them to flight after this Curcy never recovered his land MCCX Engus Sumerleds son was with three of his sonnes slaine John King of England at the same time brought a navie of 500. saile to Ireland subdued it who sending a certaine Earle named Fulk unto Man in one fortnight and a day wholly in a manner wasted it and taking hostages returned thence into their country King Reginald and his Nobles were not in Man MCCXVII Nicolas Bishop of the Ilands departed this life and was buried in Ulster within the house of Benchor after whom succeeded Reginald Here I thinke good to write somewhat againe of Olave and Reginald Brethren REginald gave unto his brother Olave the I le called Lodhus which is said to be larger than the rest of the Ilands but slenderly inhabited because it stands much upon mountaines is stony besides and almost all unfit for tillage The inhabitants thereof live for the most part by hunting and fishing Olave therfore went to possesse himselfe of this Iland and dwelt in it leading a poore life And when he saw it would not suffice to maintaine himselfe and his army he came boldly unto his brother Reginald who then made his abode in the Ilands and spake unto him in this maner Brother saith hee my Soveraigne Lord the King thou knowest that the kingdome of the Ilands belonged unto me by inheritance but since the Lord hath elected thee to sway the Scepter thereof I envie thee not nor take it grievously that thou art exalted to that royall dignity Now thus much I heartily beseech thee that thou wouldest provide me some portion of land in the Iles wherein I may live honestly according to mine estate for the Iland Lodhus which thou gavest unto me is not sufficient to sustaine me Reginald his brother after he had given him the hearing said he would take counsell upon the point and the morrow after when Olave was sent for and came in place to parley of the matter Reginald commandeth
that hee should be apprehended and brought unto William King of Scotland that with him he might be kept in prison And Olave lay prisoner in irons and chaines almost seven yeeres In the seventh yeere died William King of Scotland after whom succeeded his sonne Alexander Now before his death he gave commandement that all prisoners should be set free Olave therefore being enlarged and at liberty came to Man and soone after accompanied with no small traine of Noblemen he went to S. James and after he was thus returned Reginald his brother caused him to marry a Noble mans daughter of Kentyre even his owne wives whole sister named Lavon and gave him Lodhus in possession to enjoy Some few daies after Reginald Bishop of the Ilands having called a Synod canonically divorced Olave the sonne of Godred and Lavon his wife as being the cousin german of his former wife After this Olave wedded Scristine daughter of Ferkar Earle of Rosse For this cause Reginalds wife Queene of the Ilands was wroth and directed her letters in the name of Reginald the King into the I le Sky unto Godred her sonne that he should kill Olave As Godred was devising meanes to worke this feat and now entring into Lodhus Olave fled in a little cog-boat unto his father in law the Earle of Rosse aforesaid Then Godred wasteth and spoileth Lodhus At the same time Pol the son of Boke Sheriffe of Sky a man of great authority in all the Ilands because he would not give his consent unto Godred fled and together with Olave lived in the Earle of Rosses house and entring into a league with Olave they came both in one ship to Sky At length having sent forth their spies and discoverers they learned that Godred lay in a certain Iland called St. Columbs Ile having very few men with him misdoubting nothing Gathering therefore about them all their friends and acquaintance with such voluntaries as were ready to joine with them at midnight with five shippes which they drew from the next sea-shore distant from the Island aforesaid some two furlongs they beset the Isle round about Godred then and they that were with him rising by the dawning of the day and seeing themselves environed on every side with enemies were astonied but putting themselves in warlike armes assaied right manfully to make resistance but all in vaine For about nine a clocke of the day Olave and Pol the foresaid Sheriffe set foot in the Iland with their whole army having slain all those whom they found without the enclosure of the Church they tooke Godred put out his eyes and gelded him Howbeit to this deed Olave did not yeeld his consent neither could he withstand it for Bokes sonne the Sheriffe aforesaid For this was done in the yeere 1223. The Summer next following Olave after he had taken hostages of all the Lords and potentates of the Isles came with a fleet of 32. saile toward Man and arrived at Rognolfwaht At this very time Reginald and Olave divided the kingdome of the Ilands between themselves and Man was given to Reginald over and beside his owne portion together with the title of King Olave the second time having furnished himselfe with victuals from the people of Man returned with his company to his portion of the Iland The yeere following Reginald taking with him Alane Lord of Galway went with his souldiers of Man to the Iland parts that hee might disseize his brother Olave of that portion of land which hee had given unto him and bring it under his owne dominion But because the Manksmen were not willing to fight against Olave and the Ilanders for the love they had to them Reginald and Alan Lord of Galway returned home without atchieving their purpose After a little while Reginald under pretence of going to the Court of his Soveraigne the Lord King of England tooke up of the people of Man an hundred Markes but went in very deed to the Court of Alan Lord of Galway At the same time he affianced his daughter unto the son of Alan in marriage Which the Manksmen hearing tooke such snuffe and indignation thereat that they sent for Olave and made him their King MCCXXVI Olave recovered his inheritance to wit the kingdome of Man and of the Ilands which his brother Reginald had governed 38. yeeres and reigned quietly two yeeres MCCXXVIII Olave accompanied with all the Nobles of Man and a band of the strongest men of the country sailed over into the Ilands A little after Alan Lord of Galway and Thomas Earle of Athol and King Reginald came unto Man with a puissant army all the South part of Man they wasted spoiled the Churches and slew all the men they could lay hold of so that the South part of Man was laid in manner all desolate After this returned Alan with his army into his owne country and left his bailiffes in Man to gather up for him the tributes of the country But King Olave came upon them at unwares put them to flight and recovered his owne kingdome Then the people of Man which before time had been dispersed every way began to gather themselves together and to dwell with confidence and security In the same yeere came King Reginald out of Galway unlooked for at the dead time of night in winter with five ships and burnt all the shipping of his brother Olave and of the Lords of Man at Saint Patrickes Iland and suing to his brother for peace stayed forty daies at the haven of Ragnoll-wath Meane while he won and drew unto him all the Ilanders in the South part of Man who sware they would venture their lives in his quarrell untill hee were invested in the one halfe of the kingdome On the contrarie part Olave had the Northren men of the Isle to side with him and upon the 14. day of February at a place called Tingualla there was a battell strucke betweene the two brethren wherein Olave had the victorie and King Reginald was by some killed there without his brothers knowledge And certaine rovers comming to the South part of Man wasted and harried it The Monks of Russin translated the body of King Reginald unto the Abbey of S. Mary de Fournes and there enterred it was in a place which himselfe had chosen for that purpose After this went Olave to the King of Norway but before that hee was come thither Haco King of Norway ordained a certaine Noble man named Huâ—bac the sonne of Owmund for to bee King of the Sodorian Ilands and called his name Haco Now the same Haco together with Olave and Godred Don Reginalds son and many Norwegians came unto the Ilands and at the winning of a fort in the Iland Both Haco chanced to be smit with a stone whereof he died and lieth buried in Iona. MCCXXX Olave came with Godred Don and the Norwegians to Man and they divided the kingdome among themselves Olave held Man and Godred being gone unto the Ilands was slaine in the
Isle Lodhus So obtained Olave the kindgome of the Isles MCCXXXVII On the twelfth Calends of June died Olave the sonne of Godred King of Man in S. Patricks Iland and was buried in the Abbey of Russin He reigned eleven yeeres two by his brothers life and nine after his death Harold his sonne succeeded him being 14. yeeres of age and reigned 12. yeeres In the first yeere of his reigne he made a journey to the Ilands and appointed Loglen his cousin Custos of Man In the Autumne following Harald sent three sonnes of Nell namely Dufgald Thorquill Mormore and his friend Ioseph to Man for to consult about affaires On the 25. day therefore they meet at Tingull and by occasion of a certaine envious quarrell that arose between the sonnes of Nell and Loglen there was a sore fight on both sides wherein were slaine Dufgald Mormore and the foresaid Joseph In the spring ensuing King Harald came to the Isle of Man and Loglen as he fled toward Wales perished by Shipwracke with Godred Olaves sonne his foster child and pupill with 40. others MCCXXXVIII Gospatricke and Gillescrist the sonne of Mac-Kerthac came from the King of Norway into Man who by force kept Harald out of Man and tooke tributes to the Kings behoofe of Norway because he refused to come unto the King of Norwaies Court. MCCXL Gospatric died and is buried in the Abbey of Russin MCCXXXIX Harald went unto the King of Norway who after two yeeres confirmed unto him his heires and successours under his seale all the Ilands which his predecessours had possessed MCCXLII Harald returned out of Norway to Man and being by the inhabitants honourably received had peace with the Kings of England and of Scotland Harald like as his father before him was by the King of England dubbed Knight and after he had been rewarded with many gifts returned home The same yeere he was sent for by the King of Norway and married his daughter And in the yeere 1249. as he returned homeward with his wife and Laurence King elect of Man and many other Nobles and Gentlemen he was drowned in a tempest neere unto the coasts of Radland MCCXLIX Reginald the sonne of Olave and brother to Harald began his reigne the day before the Nones of May and on the thirtieth day thereof was slaine by one Yvar a Knight and his company in a medow neere unto the Holy Trinity Church on the South side and lieth buried in the Church of Saint Mary of Russin At that time Alexander King of Scots rigged and brought together many ships meaning to subdue the Iland and in the I le Kerwaray he died of an ague Harald the sonne of Godred Don usurped the name of King in the Ilands all the Nobles of Harald King Olaves sonne hee banished and placed in their stead all the Princes and Peeres that were fled from the said Harald MCCL. Harald the sonne of Godred Don being by missives sent for went unto the King of Norway who kept him in prison because he had unjustly intruded himselfe into the kingdome The same yeere there arrived at Roghalwaght Magnus the son of Olave and John the sonne of Dugald who named himselfe King but the people of Man taking it to the heart that Magnus was not nominated would not suffer them to land there many of them therefore were cast away and perished by shipwracke MCCLII Magnus the sonne of Olave came to Man and was made King The next yeere he went to the King of Norway and stayed there a yeere MCCLIV Haco King of Norway ordained Magnus Olaves sonne King of the Isles and confirmed the same unto him and his heires and by name unto his brother Harald MCCLVI. Magnus King of Man went into England and was knighted by the King of England MCCLVII The church of S. Maries of Russin was dedicated by Richard of Sodore MCCLX Haco King of Norway came unto the parts of Scotland and without any exploit done turned to the Orkneys where at Kirwas he ended his daies and lyeth enterred at Bergh MCCLXV Magnus Olaves sonne King of Man and of the Ilands departed this life at the Castle of Russin and was buried in the Church of S. Mary de Russin MCCLXVI The kingdome of the Ilands was translated by reason of Alexander King of Scots That which followeth was written in another hand and of a later character MCCLXX The seventh day of October a navy set out by Alexander King of Scots arrived at Roghalwath and the next morrow before sun rising a battaile was fought between the people of Man and the Scots in which were slain of the Manksmen 537. whereupon a certaine versifier played thus upon the number L. decies X. ter penta duo cecidere Mannica gens de te damna futura cave L. Ten times told X. thrice with five beside and twaine Ware future harmes I reed of thy folke Man were slaine MCCCXIII Robert King of Scots besieged the Castle of Russin which Dingawy Dowyll held against him but in the end the King won the castle MCCCXVI On the Ascension day Richard le Mandevile and his brethren with other Potentates of Ireland arrived at Ramaldwath requesting to be furnished with victuals and silver for that they had been robbed by the enemies warring upon them continually Now when the commonality of the country had made answer that they would not give them any they advanced forward against those of Man with two troops or squadrons untill they were come as far as to the side of Warthfell hill in a field wherein John Mandevile remained and there in a fought battell the Irish vanquished the Manksmen spoiled the Iland and rifled the Abbey of Russin and after they had continued in the Iland one whole moneth they returned home with their ships fraught with pillage Thus endeth the Chronicle of the K.K. of Man The Processe or course of the Historie following I will now continue summarily out of other Writers WHen Alexander the third King of Scots had gotten into his hands the Westerne Ilands partly by way of conquest and in part for ready money paid unto the King of Norway hee attempted the I le of Man also as one of that number and through the valiant prowesse of Alexander Stewart brought it under his dominion yea and placed there a petty King or Prince with this condition that hee should be ready alwaies at his command to serve with ten ships in his warres at sea Howbeit Mary the daughter of Reginald King of Man who was become the Liege-man of John King of England entred her suit for the Iland before the King of England but answer was made unto her that shee should demand it of the King of Scots for that he then held it in possession And yet her grand-child John Waldebeof for the said Mary married into the house of Waldebeofe sued for his ancient right in Parliament holden in the 33. yeere of King Edward the first before the K. of England as the superiour
Lord of the kingdome of Scotland But none other answer could he have than this if I may speake the words out of the very authenticall Records Sequatur coram Iustitiariis de Banco Regis c. that is Let him sue before the Iustices of the K. Bench let him be heard and let justice be done But that which he could not obtaine by right Sir William Montacute his kinsman for come he was of the race of the Kings of Man wonne by his sword For with a band of English mustered up in hast he drave all the Scots out of the Iland But being by this warre plunged deeply in debt and not having wherewith to make some paiment thereof he mortgaged it for seven yeeres to Antonie Bec Bishop of Durham and Patriarch of Jerusalem and made over the profits and revenues thereof unto him yea and soone after the King granted it unto the said Antonie for tearme of life Afterwards King Edward the second passed a grant thereof unto his minion Piers Gaveston what time as he created him Earle of Cornwall and when the said Piers was rid out of the way hee gave it unto Henry Beaumont with all the domaine and regall jurisdiction thereto belonging But shortly after the Scots under Robert Brus recovered it and Robert Randulph that right warlike Scot like as a long time after Alexander Duke of Albany used to stile themselves Lords of Man and bare the same coat of Armes as did the later Kings of Man namely three armed legges of a man linked together and bending in the hammes such for all the world as the Isle Sicilia gave the three legges naked in like forme in her coines of money in old time to signifie three Promontories Notwithstanding before time the Kings of Man used for their armes as we have seene in their Seales a ship with the saile hoised up with this title in the circumference Rex Manniae insularum that is King of Man and of the Islands Afterward about the yeere 1340. William Montacute the younger Earle of Salisbury wrested it by strong hand and force of armes from the Scottish who in the yeere of our Lord 1393. as Thomas Walsingham saith sold for a great summe of money Man with the crowne thereof unto William Scrope Who being for high treason beheaded and his goods confiscate it came unto the hands of Henry the fourth King of England who granted this Iland unto Henry Percy Earle of Northumberland as a conqueror triumphing over William Scrope whom he as yet a private person had intercepted and beheaded when he aspired to the crowne with this condition that himselfe and his heires should when the Kings of England were enstalled and crowned carry before them that sword which the said Henry wore by his side what time he came backe againe out of exile into England commonly called Lancaster sword But I think it good to set this down out of the Record in the very words of the K. himself De nostra gratia speciali dedimus that is Of our speciall grace we have given and granted unto Henry Earle of Northumberland the Isle Castle Pile and Seigniory of Man and all the Ilands and Lordships to the said Isle belonging which were Sir William le Scropes Knight now deceased whom in his life time we conquered and have decreed him so to be conquered and which by reason of our conquest of him we tooke into our hand as conquered which conquest verily and decree in our present Parliament with the assent of the Lords Temporall in the same Parliament being as touching the person of the foresaid William and all the lands tenements goods and chattels of his as well within our kingdome as without at the petition of the Communalty of our kingdome stand confirmed c. To have and to hold unto the said Earle and his heires c. by service of carrying at the daies of our coronation and of our heires at the left shoulder and the left shoulder of our heires either by himself or a sufficient and honourable Deputy of his that sword naked which we ware and were girt with when we arrived in the parts of Holdernesse called Lancaster sword c. But in the fifth yeere following the said Henry Percie entred into open rebellion and the King sent Sir Iohn Stanley and William Stanley to seize the Isle and castle of Man the inheritance whereof he granted afterward to Sir Iohn Stanley and his heires by letters Patents with the patronage of the Bishopricke c. And so his heires and successours who were honoured with the title of Earles of Derby were commonly called Kings of Man From Man untill we come to the Mull of Gallaway we meet with none but very small Ilands But after we be once past it in the salt water of GLOTTA or Dunbritton Frith appeareth the Iland GLOTTA whereof Antoninus maketh mention which the Scots now call Arran whereof the Earles of Arran in Scotland were stiled and neighbouring unto it is that which was in times past named Rothesia now Buthe of a sacred Cell which Brendan erected for so they terme a little Cell in Scottish thence come we to Hellan in times past called Hellan Leneaw that is as Iohn Fordon interpreteth it The Isle of Saints and to Hellan Tinoc that is The Isle of Swine and these Ilands are seen in the same Frith or Forth But of these I have spoken before Without this Bay or Frith lye a number of Ilands very thicke together which the Scots themselves that inhabite them call Inch-Gall that is haply The Isles of the Gallicians the English and the rest of the Scots The Western Isles the writers of the former age HEBRIDES but the ancient Ethnickes Bettoricae and Giraldus other where Inchades and Leucades Pliny Solinus and Ptolomee name them EBUDAS HEBUDAS and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which names have some consonant affinity with Epidium the promontory of Britain opposite unto them and an Isle among these so named The reason of the name I cannot picke out unlesse I should thinke they were so called because there groweth here no corne or graine For Solinus writeth that the inhabitants of these Ilands are not acquainted with corne and live onely upon fish and milke and Eb eid in British soundeth as much as without corne The inhabitants as saith the same Solinus have no skill or knowledge of corne they live of fish and milke onely They all have but one King For how many soever they be they are severed one from another by a narrow enterflow of the Sea betweene The King hath nothing that hee may say is his owne all things are common to them all and held hee is to equity by certaine lawes and lest hee should for covetousnesse swarve aside from the truth by his poore estate he learneth justice as who hath no house furniture and provision of his owne but all his maintenance is from the common coffer No woman is he allowed to have in
propriety but by turnes hee taketh for to use whomsoever hee fancieth whereby hee neither can have his wish nor hope of children Of these Islands the common people affirmeth there bee 44. whereas in truth there are many more Pliny wrote that there were 30. of them But Ptolomee reckoneth up but five The first is RICINA Pliny calleth it RICNEA Antoninus RIDUNA now termed Racline and I think it should be read in Antonine Riclina for cl easily maketh a d by joining a c at the backe unto it A small Iland this is butting full upon Ireland knowne unto the ancient writers for that it lieth in the very narrow sea betweene Ireland and Scotland famous at this day for no cause else but for the overthrow and slaughter of the Scottish Irish who otherwhiles possessed themselves of it and were thrust out by the English under the conduct of Sir William Norris in the yeere 1575. The next is EPIDIUM which by the name I would ghesse with that excellent Geographer Gerard Mercator lay neere unto the promontorie of the Epidii and to the shore And seeing there standeth apparently in the same situation an Iland called Ila of good largenesse and of a fruitfull plaine and champion soile I dare avouch that this was Epidium or the Isle of the Epidii for in some places it is read 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 This carrieth in length 24. miles and is 16. miles broad so plentifull of cattell wheat and heards of red deere that it was the second seat next unto Man for the King of the Ilands as it is at this day of the Mac-Connels who herein have their Castle at Dunyweg Betwixt Ila and Scotland lieth Iona which Bede tearmeth Hy and Hu given by the Picts unto the Scottish Monkes for propagating and preaching of the Gospell among them where stood a Monasterie famous by reason of the Scottish Kings tombes and the frequent conversing of holy men therein among whom Columba the Apostle of the Picts was the principall of whose Cell the Iland also is called Columb-Kill like as the man also himselfe by a compound name was termed Columbkill as Bede witnesseth And here at length as some will have it a Bishops seat was ordained in Sodore a little towne whence all the Iles were also called Sodorensis for that it is reckoned to be in his Diocesse Then have you MALEOS that Ptolomee writeth of now called Mula whereof Plinie seemeth to make mention when hee saith Mella is reported to bee 25. miles larger than the rest For so we read in the most ancient edition of Plinie printed at Venice whereas in the Vulgar copies in steed of Reliquarum Mella is read Reliquarum nulla that is None of the rest c. The Eastern HEBUDA now called Skie from hence lieth out in a great length over against the shore or coast of Scotland the Westerne HEBUDA bending more Westward is now called Lewis the Lord whereof is Mac-Cloyd and in the ancient history of Man is named Lodhus full of steep and craggie little hills stony and very slenderly inhabited howbeit the largest of them all from which Eust is dis-joined with a very narrow wash All the rest save onely Hyrtha are of small account being either very stony or else inaccessible by reason of craggy cliffes scarce clad with any green-sord Yet the Scots purchased all these with their ready mony of the Norwegians as I have said before as if they had beene the very buttresses or pillars of the kingdome although they reape very small commodity thereby considering that the inhabitants the ancient true Scots or Irish being men of stout stomackes and desperate boldnesse will by no meanes be subject to the severity of lawes or awed by justice As touching their manners apparell and language they differ nothing at all from the wild Irishry of whom we have spoken before so that wee may easily know thereby that they be one and the selfe same nation originally They that beare the sway and doe rule in these Ilands are the families of Mac-Conel Mac-Alen whom others terme Mac-len Mac-Cloyd of Lewis and Mac-Cloyd of Harich But the mightiest house of them all is that of the Mac-Conels who glory in their pedegree as derived from Donald who in the reigne of Iames the third stiled himselfe King of the Ilands and with all kinde of cruelty in most savage and barbarous manner plagued Scotland which notwithstanding his sonne being outlawed paied deerely as forced to submit his whole estate absolutely unto the Kings will and pleasure and had of his gift some possessions assigned to him in Cantire In the foregoing age of this stocke there flourished Donel Gormy Mac-Conell that is The blew haply so surnamed of his apparell He had issue two sonnes Agnus Mac-Conell and Alexander he who leaving this barren and hungry Cantir invaded the Glinnes in Ireland Agnus Mac-Conell aforesaid was father of Iames Mac-Conell slaine by Shan O-Neale and of Surley Boy upon whom Queene Elizabeth of her bounty bestowed lands in Rout within Ireland Iames Mac-Conell had issue Agnus Mac-Conell of whom I have spoken before between whom and Mac-Clen there was such a deepe and inveterate hatred that the force of consanguinity was never able to quench the feud but that they polluted themselves most wickedly with one anothers bloud From the Haebudes if you hold sailes along by the shore toward the North-east you may at length discover the ORCADES now called ORKNEY being thirty Ilands or thereabout sundred by the Ocean which hath his walke and current betweene them A certain ancient fragment so calleth them as one would say Argat that is as the same interpreteth it Above the Getes but I would rather expound it Above Cath for it lyeth over against Cath a countrey of Scotland which of the Promontory they use to call Cathnesse the inhabitants whereof seeme to be named amisse by Ptolomee CARINI for CATINI In Solinus his time no man dwelled in them but overgrowne they were Vinceis or Iunceis herbis that is With binding or rushy weeds but now inhabited indeed they are yet destitute of woods bearing barley good store and altogether without wheat Among these Pomonia famous for an Episcopall See is the principall called by Solinus POMONA Diutina for the length of the daies there now the inhabitants tearme it Mainland as if it were the continent or maine adorned with the Bishops seat in Kirkwale a little towne and with two castles it yeeldeth plenty of tinne and of lead OCETIS also is reckoned by Ptolomee in number of these which now we ghesse to be named Hethy But whether Hey which is counted one of these be Plinies DUMNA or no I could never yet resolve Surely if it be not I would thinke that Faire Isle the onely towne whereof for it hath but one they call Dumo is that Dumna rather than with Becanus judge Wardhuys in Lapland to be it Iulius Agricola who first of all sailed round about Britaine with his fleet discovered out
of these Isles of Orkney which till that time were unknowne and subdued them if we may beleeve Tacitus but questionlesse they were knowne in the time of Claudius the Emperour for Pomponius Mela who then lived mentioneth them Yet doubtlesse Orosius is untrue in that he writeth that Claudius conquered them and so farre is it off that Claudius should conquer them which is avouched in S. Hieroms Chronicles that Iuvenal in Hadrians time not long after Agricola wrote thus of them Arma quid ultra Littora Iuvernae promovimus modò captas Orcades minima contentos nocte Britannos Why warred we past Irish coasts and Orkneys lately won Beyond the Britans where there is least night and longest Sun Afterward when the Romans Empire in Britaine was utterly decaied now the Saxons as it seemeth were seated in them for Claudian the Poet plaied upon them in these termes Maduerunt Saxone fuso Orcades With Saxons blood that there were slaine The Orkneys was imbrued againe Ninnius also writeth that Octha and Ehissus Saxons who served for pay under the Britans sailed round about the Picts with 40. Ciules that is Flyboats or Roving Pinnaces and wasted the Iles of Orkney After this they came into the hands of the Norwegians whence it is that the inhabitants speake the Gothes language by the grant of Donald Ban who after the death of his brother Malcom Can-Mor King of Scots by excluding his nephewes had usurped the kingdome that by their helpe he might be assisted in that intended ambition and the Norwegians held the possession of them unto the yeere of salvation 1266. For then Magnus the fourth of that name King of Norway being by the Scots that warred upon him brought to distresse surrendred them up againe unto Alexander the third King of the Scots by covenant and composition which Haquin King of the Norwegians confirmed unto King Robert Brus in the yeere 1312. And at length in the yeere 1498. Christian the first King of Norway and of Denmark renounced all his right for himselfe and his successours when he affianced his daughter unto James the third King of Scots and made over all his interest to his said sonne in law and his successours and for the stronger assurance thereof the Popes confirmation was procured to ratifie the same To say nothing of the Earles of Orkney that were of more ancient times who also in right of inheritance obtained the Earldomes of Cathnesse and of Strathern at the last the title of Orkney came by an heire female unto Sir William Sent-cler and William the fourth of this line called The Prodigall Earl for wasting his patrimony was the last Earle of this race Howbeit his posterity enjoyed the honour to be Baron Sent-cler unto these daies And the title of Cathnes remaineth still in the posterity of his brother But within our remembrance this honourable title of the Earle of Orkney and Lord of Shetland was conferred upon Robert a base sonne of King James the fifth and Patrick Steward his sonne enjoyeth the same at this present Beyond the Iles of Orkney and above Britaine the author of that ancient Commentary upon Horace placeth the Fortunate Ilands wherein as they write none dwell but devout and just men and the Grecians in their verses celebrate the pleasantnesse and fertility of the place calling them the Elysian fields But as touching these Fortunate Isles take with you if you please another relation of that old fabulous Grecian Isacius Tzetzes out of his notes upon Lycophron In the Ocean saith he there is a British Iland between West Britain and Thule that looke toward the East Thither men say the soules of the dead are translated over for on the shore of that sea wherein the Iland of Britaine lieth there dwelt fisher-men subject unto the French but paying them no tribute because as they say they ferry over the soules and folk departed When these fishermen returne home in the evening within a while after they heare some knocking at the door and heare a voice calling them unto their work Then rise they and to the shore they goe not knowing what causeth them for to goe where they see boats prepared but none of their owne and no men in them which when they be entred into they fall to their oares and feele the weight of the said boats as if they were laden with men but see no body After that with one push they come to a British Iland in a trice whereas otherwise in ships of their own they could hardly get thither with a day and nights sailing Now when they are come to the Iland then again they see no creature but heare a voice of those that receive them that are a shipboard and count them by the kinred of father and mother yea and call them one by one according to their dignity art and name But they after that the ship is discharged of her load return home againe with one yerke of their oares Hence it is that many men thinke these be the Ilands of blessed ghosts Of the same stampe also may that Poeticall Geographer seeme to be of whom Muretus maketh mention in his variety of readings who hath written that C. Iulius Caesar went thither once in a great galley with an hundred men aboard and when he was willing to have seated himselfe there as being wondrously delighted with the incredible pleasantnesse of the place he was full against his will and struggling what he could to the contrary throwne out by those invisible inhabitants Five daies and nights sailing from the Isles of Orkney Solinus placeth THULE An Iland if any other often celebrated by the Poets whensoever they would signifie any thing very remote and farre off as if it were the furthest part of the whole world Hereupon saith Virgil Tibi serviat ultima Thule that is Let Thule most remote thee serve Seneca Terrarum ultima Thule that is Thule the farthest land that is Juvenal De conducendo loquitur jam Rhetore Thule that is Now Thule speakes how Oratours to hire Claudian Thulen procul axe remotam that is Thule far remote under the Pole and in another place Ratibusque impervia Thule And Thule where no ships can passe Statius Ignotam vincere Thulen that is To conquer Thule all unknowne And Ammianus Marcellinus by way of an Adage or Proverbiall speech useth it in these words Etiamsi apud Thulen moraretur that is Although he made his abode even in Thule To passe over other testimonies give me leave yet to note thus much moreover that the said Statius used Thule for Britaine in these his verses Caerulus haud alitèr cùm dimicat incola Thules Agmina falcifero circumvenit acta covino Even so the blew inhabitants of Thule when they fight Environ battels marching on with sithed chariots might As also in this place of his Poem entituled Sylvae as it seemeth restuo circumsona gurgite Thule Thule that doth resound amaine With sea that ebbes
there established On the East-side where it faceth the citie Constantia there is seated upon a steep rocke a most strong castle with an haughty name called Mont Orgueil which is much beholden unto King Henry the fifth who repaired it The Governour of the Isle is Captain thereof who in times past was called the Custos of the Isle and in Henry the third his reigne had a yeerely pension of 200. pound On the South side but with longer distance betweene Saint Malo is to be seene having taken that new name of Maclou a very devout man where before time it was called the city Diablintum and in the ancient Notice ALETUM for in a Manuscript of Isidor Mercator we read thus in expresse termes Civitas Diablintum c. that is the city Diablintum which by another name is called Aletum As for the inhabitants they freshly practice the feat of fishing but give their minds especially to husbandry and the women make a very gainfull trade by knitting of hose which they call Iarsey Stockes or Stockings As touching the politicke state thereof a Governour sent from the King of England is the chiefe Magistrate hee appointeth a Bailiffe who together with twelve Jurats or sworne Assistants and those chosen out of the twelve severall parishes by the voices of the Parishioners sitteth to minister justice in Civill causes in criminall matters he sitteth but with seven of the said sworne assistants and in causes of conscience to be decided by equity and reason with three Twenty miles hence North-west lieth another Iland which Antonine the Emperour in ancient time named SARNIA we at this day Garnsey lying out East and West in fashion of an harpe neither in greatnesse nor in fruitfulnesse comparable to Iersey for it hath in it only ten parishes yet is this to be preferred before it because it fostereth no venemous thing therin like as the other doth It is also better fortified by naturall fenses as being enclosed round with a set of steepe rockes among which is found that most hard and sharpe stone Smyris which we terme Emerill wherewith Goldsmiths and Lapidaries clense burnish and cut their precious stones and glaziers also divide and cleave their glasse Likewise it is of greater name for the commodiousnesse of the haven and the concourse of merchants resorting thither For in the farthest part well neere Eastward but on the South side it admitteth an haven within an hollow Bay bending inward like an halfe Moone able to receive tall ships upon which standeth Saint Peters a little towne built with a long and narrow street well stored with warlike munition and ever as any warre is toward mightily replenished with Merchants For by an ancient priviledge of the Kings of England here is alwaies a continuall truce as it were and lawfull it is for Frenchmen and others how hot soever the warre is to have repaire hither too and fro without danger and to maintain entercourse of trafficke in security The entry of the haven which is rockie is fortified on both sides with castles On the left hand there is an ancient bulwarke or block-house and on the right hand over against it standeth another called Cornet upon an high rocke and the same at every high water compassed about with the sea Which in Queene Maries daies Sir Leonard Chamberlane Governour of the Iland as also under Queene Elizabeth Sir Thomas Leighton his successour caused to bee fortified with new workes For here lieth for the most part the Governour of the Iland and the Garrison souldiers who will in no hand suffer Frenchmen and women to enter in On the North side there is La-vall a biland adjoining unto it which had belonging thereto a covent of religious persons or a Priory On the West part neere unto the sea there is a lake that taketh up a mile and halfe in compasse replenished with fish but Carpes especially which for bignesse and pleasant taste are right commendable The inhabitants are nothing so industrious in tilling of the ground as those of Iarsey but in navigation and trafficke of merchandise for a more uncertaine gaine they be very painfull Every man by himselfe loveth to husband his owne land so that the whole Iland lieth in severall and is divided by enclosures into sundry parcels which they find not onely profitable to themselves but also a matter of strength against the enemie Both Ilands smile right pleasantly upon you with much variety of greene gardens and orchards by meanes whereof they use for the most part a kinde of wine made of apples which some call Sisera and we Sydre The inhabitants in both places are by their first originall either Normans or Britans and speake French yet disdaine they to be either reputed or named French and can very well be content to be called English In both Ilands likewise they burne Uraic for their fuell or else sea-coals brought out of England and in both places they have wonderfull store of fish and the same manner of civill government These Ilands with others lying about them belonged in old time to the Dukedom of Normandy but when as Henry the first King of England had vanquished his brother Robert in the yeere of our Lord 1108. he annexed that Dukedom and these Ilands unto the kingdome of England Since which time they have continued firme in loialtie unto England even when John King of England being endited for murdering Arthur his Nephew was by a definitive sentence or arrest of confiscation deprived of his right in Normandy which he held in chiefe of the French King yea moreover when the French had seized upon these Isles hee through the faithfull affection of the people twice recovered them Neither revolted they when Henry the third King of England had for a summe of money surrendred his whole interest and right in Normandy And ever since they have with great commendation of their constancy persisted faithfull unto the Crowne of England and are the onely remaines that the Kings of England have of the ancient inheritance of William the Conquerour and of the Dutchy of Normandy although the French otherwhiles have set upon them who from the neighbour coast of France have hardly this long time endured to see them appertaine not to France but to England And verily Evan a Welsh Gentleman descended from the Princes of Wales and serving the French King surprized Garnesey in the time of King Edward the third but soone lost it And also in the reigne of King Edward the fourth as appeareth by the records of the Realme they seized upon the same but through the valour of Richard Harleston valect of the Crowne for so they termed him in those daies they were shortly disseized and the King in recompence of his valorous service gave unto him the Captainship both of the Iland and of the castle And in the yeere 1549. when England under King Edward the sixth a child was distressed with domesticall troubles Leo Strozzi Captaine of
Solis ab Ortu Gens Deo dicata per quem sic sum renovata Let Church-men and religious folke from time that Sun doth rise Blesse Adam Port by whom I am rebuilded in this wise Segontiaci Basingstoke Basing Saint Iohn Out of an old Missall of the Family of Powlet Vines in Britaine Vopiscus Barons Sands Odiam Matthew Paris Vindonum Silcester Sepulchres of honour Constantine Emperour chosen in hope of his name * Bononia * Heire apparant Iulianus Nobilissimus Sel what it is Armes of the Blewets Bainards and Cusantes Kings-cleare Sidmanton * Specula Beacon Newport The Inhabitants In Vespati cap. 4. Anno D. 5 Bede lib. 4. cap. 13. Bede lib. 4. cap. 16. Lords of the Isle of Wight Christ-Church * Or Gaule France Comius Attrebatensis In stratagemat Asserius * Ouze Farendon Guil. New brigâ—sis Abbenduâ— or Abingâ— Hâ—â—icâ—â— Quintus quarto fundaverat anno Rex 〈◊〉 Burford super undas atque Culhamford K. Henry of that name the fifth the fourth yeare of his reigne both Burford Bridge and Culhamford did found on River mayne Now Ashbury neere to White horse hill Besides Lee. Fetiplace * Ouse Vicount Lisle See the Earles of Shrewsbury Pusey Denchworth Wantage Fitzwarin Tamisis or Tamis the River Sinodum Bretwell Robert Montensis Gallena Wallengfor Domesday booke Records of Wallengford 〈◊〉 Coâ—itis Of the honor of Wallengford in Testa â—evilli in the Exchequer A most grievous Pestilence Moules-ford Carew Aldworth The River Kenet Hungerford 1. pâ—rs dupl patent Norm 6. â— 5. Barons of Hungerford Widehay * De S. Amâ— Barons de Amand. Beauchaâ— De S. â—maâ— Spine Newbury Lambor * Almeshouse Aldermaston Reading Maude the Empresse King Henry the second King Richa the first Sunning Bisham Grandison Maidenhead Bibroci * Bray Windesore Order of the Garter Shame to hâ— that evill thinketh Soveraigâ— Founders of the Order Almes-Knights Wickham his Apophthegm * Or free Eaton Barons of Windsore Queene Elizabeth Queene Elizabeths Mot or Empresse * Flowing or rolling * Or the 〈◊〉 Windsor Forrest Chases or Forrests Forrest what it is and whence so called Protoforestarius Iustices of the Forrests The Kings Knight The Kingdome of West-Saxons Geguises Rhey Oking or Woking William Ockham Pater Noâ—â—nalium Where Caeâ— crossed the Tamis Coway-stakes The river Mole Anas a river in Spaine Ockley Gatton Rhie-gate Holmesdale Holmecastle * Or Inquisitions * In Baronia sua de Conquesta Angliae Effingham The Swallow or Swallow hole A bridge on which flockes of sheepe are pastured L. Bray Richmond Both the place and the village before the time of King Henry the Seventh called Shene Edward the Third The death of Queene Elizabeth 1603. How farre the Tamis ebbeth and floweth Why Tamis ebbeth and floweth so far within Land * The seventh * The Third None-such * Vandalis Woodcote Noviomagi Noviomagus Croidon Beddington * Addington Aguilon Merton Wimbledon Putney See Earles of Essex Kennington Lambith * Hardy-Cnute Southworke Barons Saint Iohn of Lagham Sterborow Lord Borough or Burgh Earles of Surrie who also are called Earles of Warren Earles of March in France Downes Anderida wood Iron Glasses Selsey Scales Here be the best Cockles slaves Amberley See the Earles of Shrewsburie * D' aubeney some write him de Albinetâ— and de Albiniacâ— Earles of Arundell and of Sussex Charta antiqua X. in 29. Parl. 11. H 6 229. 4. Edw. 3 See before the Earles of Surrey * As having married his daughter Spigurnell what it is Petworth The Percies See in the end of Northumberland Dautry Burton Horsham Michelgrove Shelley Offington The familie of the Wests * De Cantelupâ— Barons de la Ware Cisburie Cimenshore Brood-water Lord Camois Camois A wife given and granted to another Parlam 30. Edw. primi The forme of a Bill of a kind of Divorcement called Kepudiuâ— Shoreham Ederington Slaugham Lewes * For custome or rent and roll Domesday booke * Or redeemeth the offence * Cluniaco The monument of Magnus a Dane 1263. The battaile of Lewes 232. Others call it The three Charles Downes Pevensey Florentius wigorniensis pag. 452. Composition betweene King Stephen and Henrie of Anjoy Honor de Aquila Robert de Monte Herst Monceaux Herst what it is Regist of the Monasterie of Roberts-bridge The familie of the Fienes Patent 37. Henrie 6. An. 14. Ed. 4. See Normans before A mercate kept on the Sunday Ashburnham Hastings * Cinqueports 21. Edw. 1. 3946. 1578. Ancenses Earles of Ew * Esc. 7. H. 6. Enquisition 5. Edw. 1. William Lord Hastings 26. Henry 6. Baron of Hoo and Hastings Winchelsey Camber-Castle * Rhie * The River Rother Barons Burghersh Baron Echingham Roberts Bridge or Rotherbridge Bodiam Baron Buckhurst Earles of Sussex See Earles of Arundell * With the beard 21. Henry 8. The Kingdome of the South-Saxons Carion corruptly read in Diodorus Siculus Hereof commeth Canton in Heraldrie for a corner and the Helvetians countreys were bâ— the French called Canton Rumney Marsh. Pâ—aâ— 15. ca. 25. Cherries were brought over into Britaine about the yeare of our Lord 48. 236. Prowesse of Kentishmen Iulius Cesar. See Romans in Britaine Page 34. * Ravensburn An old great Campe. Depe-ford Magnignot Green-wich The same that Danes Eltham The Booke of Durham The Breach 1527. Leisnes * Scurvy-grasse 1527. The herbe Britannica * Friseland * See afterward in the British Isles concerning the Arrenat or Armory of the Britaines * Sevenoke Knoll Otford Dartford Swane-scomb that is King Swanes Campe. Graves-end Inquis 35. E. 3 Barons of Cobham Clive at Ho. Medway Weald Penshurst Sidney Vicount Lislâ— See in Barke shire Philip Sidney Tunbridge * The Lowy of Tunbridge * Whet-stones Mereworth Vagniacae Madus Lenâ—hâ—â— Bocton Mâ—lherb Baron Wotton Fin. Mich. xi E. 2. Leeds castle The family â— Crevequer * Ailesford Horsted Catigern his Sepulchre Boxley Wrotham Malling Leibourn Baron Leibourn Briling Baron Say Durobrevis In an ancient table set forth by Welser Roibis Ceaster what it is Rochester * Niding William of Malmesbury Textus Roffensis An antient Manuscript booke of that church * The French called him Canol The Kings Navy Toliatis an Isle Shepey Iu. â—et Queene Borough Tenham Chery gardens Feversham Pits made in Kent * Reculver Regulbium * Hadrianâ—â— Iunius Stoure river Ashford Wie Page 4157. Chilham Fulbert of Dover 1306. * Fel-borough As we call Iuliana Gilian Laberias Durus a Tribune Durovernum * Welsh Canterbury Augustine the Apostle of the Englishmen Pall what it is Anno. 7093. Hackington Saint Stephens Fordich * The first English Nunne Elham Inq. 2. E. 3. Herdes * Hides in English An hides as it is thought consisteth of an hundred acres called in latine in old time Familia Mansa and Manens Lapis tituli Now Elflet 596. Minster 1217. Lewis of France Chronicles of W. Thorn Rhutupia Portuâ— Trutuâ—ensiâ— * The youngeâ— * Caer Leon Clemens Maximus * See how these verses are englished in pag. 83. There bee that under 〈◊〉 name of Rhiâ—â—tupine would
the opinion of other men is of it SEOESAM ROLNASON OSALVEDN AL. Q. Q. SAR BREVENM BEDIANIS ANTONI US MEG VI. IC DOMU ELITER For mine owne part I can make nothing else thereof but that most of these words were the British names of places adjoining In the yeere 1603. when I went a second time to see this place I hapned upon the greatest and fairest Altar that ever I saw dedicated to the Mother Goddesses by a Captain of the Asturians with this inscription DEISMATRIBVS M. INGENVIVS ASIATICVS DEC AL. AST SS LL. M. Concerning these DEABUS or DEIS MATRIBUS that is Mothers Goddesses what they were I cannot finde out with all my searching for in the volumes of Inscriptions gathered through the world save in another Altar besides found among us they are not mentioned as farre as I remember Onely I read that Enguium a little towne in Sicily was ennobled for the presence of the MOTHER GODDESSES wherein were shewed certaine speares and brazen helmets which Metio and Ulysses consecrated to those Goddesses Another little Altar I saw there cast out among rubbish stone with this inscription PACIFE RO MARTI ELEGAUR BA POS UIT EX VO TO So small a one this was that it may seeme to have beene some poore mans little altar to carry with him to and fro serving only to burne and offer incense or salt and meale upon it whereas that other was farre bigger and made for to sacrifice and offer greater beasts upon it In these altars the posterity no doubt imitated Noah even after they had fallen away and revolted from the true worship of God Neither erected they altars to their Gods onely but also unto their Emperours by way of servile flattery with this impious title NUMINI MAIESTATIQUE EORUM that is unto their GOD-HEAD and Majesty Unto these they kneeled in humble maner these they clasped about and embraced as they prayed before these they tooke their oathes and in one word in these and in their sacrifices consisted the maine substance of all their religion so farre forth that whosoever had no altar of their owne they were thought verily to have no religion nor to acknowledge any God at all Moreover very lately and but the other day a stone was digged up here wherein was engraven the naked portract or image of a man on horse-backe without saddle without bridle with both hands seeming to launce his speare and ready to ride over a naked man lying downe along at his foot who holdeth before I wot not what foure square peece Betweene the horse and him that lieth along are these letters D.M. and under him so lying are read these words CAL. SARMATA All the letters beside which were many are so worne out and gone that they could not be read neither list I to guesse any farther what they were That ALA SARMATARUM that is a wing of Sarmatian horsemen abode in this place it may seeme as well by that former inscription as by this that many yeeres before was found hard by HIS TERRIS TEGITUR AEL MATRONA QU VIX AN. XXVIII M. II. D. VIII ET M. JULIUS MAXIMUS FIL. VIX AN. VI. M. III. D. XX. ET CAM PANIA DUBBA MATER VIX AN. L. JULIUS MAXIMUS ALAE SAR CONJUX CONJUGI INCOMPARABILI ET FILIO PATRI PIENTIS SIMO ET SOCERAE TENA CISSIMAE MEMORIAE P. But hence have wee no light at all toward the finding out of the ancient name of this place which now is in question unlesse it hath now and then changed the name which otherwhiles usually happeneth For in this place Ptolomy hath set RIGODUNUM if for RIBODUNUM the name is not altogether unlike to Ribbechester and just at this distance from Mancunium that is Manchester that is to say 18. miles off doth Antonine place COCCIM which also in some copies we read GOCCIUM But when the flourishing fortune of this City having runne the full and fatall period was faded either by warre or earthquake as the common sort doe think somewhat lower where Ribell suffereth the violence of the flowing tides of the Sea and is called of the Geographer BELLISAMA AESTUARIUM that is the salt-water BELLISAMA neare unto Peneworth where in the Conquerors reigne there was a little castle as appeareth by the Records of the said King out of the fall of Riblechester arose in steed of it her daughter Preston a great and for these Countries a faire town well inhabited so called of religious men for in our speech the name soundeth as much as Priests towne Beneath this Ribell Derwen a rill commeth in with his water and the first mercate towne that hee watereth is Blacke-borne so called of the Blacke-water which towne belonging in times past to the Lacies gave name unto Blackburne-shire a little territory adjoining from thence it runneth by Houghton-towre which communicated the name unto a notable family that long time dwelt in it and by Waleton which William Lord of Lancaster King Stephens sonne gave unto Walter de Walton and afterward it was the possession of the ancient race of the Langtons who descended from the said Waltons But now let us returne The said Preston whereof I spake is by the common people called Preston in Andernesse for Acmundes-nesse for so the English Saxons tearmed this part of the shire which lying between the two rivers Ribel and Cocar stretcheth out with a promontory in manner of a nose which afterwards they also called Acmundernesse Wherein were no more but 16. villages inhabited in King William the Conquerors time the rest lay wast as we read in Doomes-day booke and Roger of Poictiers held the same But afterwards it belonged to Theobald Walter from whom the Bottelers of Ireland derive their beginning for thus wee read in a Charter of K. Richard the first Know yee that wee have given and by this present Charter confirmed unto Theobald Walter for his homage and service Agmondernesse full and whole with all the appertenences c. This part yeeldeth plenty of oates but not so apt to beare barly Howbeit it is full of fresh pastures especially to the sea side where it is partly Champion ground and thereupon it seemeth that a good part of it is called The File for the Field and yet in the Kings Rolls it goeth under the Latine name LIMA that is a File namely that Smithes toole or instrument wherewith Iron or any other thing is smoothed But because elsewhere it is marish ground they hold it not very wholsome Wie a little river speedily cutting over this part commeth rolling downe out of Wierdale a very solitary place and runneth by Grenhaugh Castle which Thomas Stanley the first Earle of Derby out of this family built what time as hee stood in feare of certaine out-lawed Gentlemen of this shire whose possessions King Henry the seventh had freely given unto him For many an assault they gave him and other
whiles in hostile manner made inrodes into his lands untill the moderate carriage of the good and worthy man and processe of time pacified these quarrels Here along the sea shore you may see in many places heaps of sand whereupon they powre water untill it gather a saltish humour which afterwards with turfes they boile untill it be white salt There be also here uncertaine sands not to bee trusted but ready to catch and swallow they call them Quick-sands so dangerous for travellers whiles at a low water when tide is past they seeke to goe the nearest way that they had need to take very good heed lest in going a foot I use Sidonius his words they suffer not shipwracke and be cast away on the land But especially about the mouth of Cocar where as it were in a field of Syrts or Quick-sands Cokar sand Abbey an Abbey not long since of the Cluniack Monkes built by Ranulph de Meschines but open to the violence of windes stood betweene the mouths of Cocar and Lune or Lone and hath a bleake prospect into the wide Irish sea This river Lone commonly called Lune springing out of the mountaines of Westmorland running Southward in a chanell now broad now narrow with many a reach in and out hindring his streame enricheth the dwellers thereby in Summer time with great store of Salmons which because they delight in cleere water and especially in shallow places that are sandy come up thicke together into this and other rivers of this coast As soone as Lune is entred into Lancashire Lace a little brooke from out of the East joyneth his streame with it In which place now standeth Over-Burrow a very small village of husbandmen which as the inhabitants enformed mee had beene sometimes a great City and tooke up all those large fields betweene Lacce and Lone and after it had suffered all miseries that follow famine was driven to composition through extremity This tradition they received from their ancestours delivered as it were from hand to hand unto them And in very truth by divers and sundry monuments exceeding ancient by engraven stones pavements of square checker worke peeces of Romane coine and by this new name Burrow which with us signifieth a Burgh that place should seeme to bee of great antiquity But if it recover the ancient name it may thanke other and not mee although I have sought as narrowly and diligently for it as for Ants pathes neither is any man to thinke that the severall names of every towne in Britaine are precisely noted and set done in Ptolomee Antonine The Notice of Provinces and other approved and principall Authors But if a man may goe by ghesse I would willingly thinke that it was BREMETONACUM which Ierome Surita a Spaniard in his notes upon Antonine or Rible-chester deemeth truely to be a different place from BREMENTURACUM and that by the distance from COCCIUM or Rible-chester From this Burrow the river Lune runneth beside Thurland Tunstalls a fortresse built by Sir Thomas Tunstall in the time of King Henry the fourth when the King had given him Licence to fortifie and kernell his mansion house that is to embatle it also by Hornby a faire castle which glorieth much of the first founder N. de Mont Begon and of the Lords thereof The Harringtons and Stanleys Barons Stanleyes of Mont-Eagle descended from Thomas Stanley the first Earle of Derby of that house and advanced to that title by King Henry the eighth of whom the third and the last named William left behind him his onely daughter and heire Elizabeth wife to Edward Parker Baron Morley mother to Sir William Parker whom in that regard King James commanded to be summoned to Parliament by the title of Lord Mont-Eagle and whom wee and all our posterity may acknowledge to have beene borne for the good of all Britain For by a short letter obscurely penned and secretly sent unto him and by him dutifully discovered in a happy houre was detected at the very last houre in a maner when the whole State was at the point to perish by the most horrible and detestable treason that ever any barbarous impiety could contrive what time certaine godlesse and irreligious monsters of men masking under the mantle of religion having bestowed a great quantity of gun-powder under the Parliament house stood ready with match in hand to give fire thereto for to blow up both Prince and Countrey with one blast in a moment Lone having passed on some few miles from hence commeth within the sight of Lancaster standing on his South banke the chiefe towne of this region which the inhabitants more truly call Loncaster as the Scots also who name it Loncastell of the River Lone Both the name still remaining and the river running under it doe argue in some sort that it is LONGOVICUM where under the Lievtenant Generall of Britaine as wee finde in the Notice of Provinces a company of the Longovicarians who of the place borrowed that name kept their station Although the towne at this day is not very well peopled nor much frequented and all the inhabitants thereof are given to husbandry for the territory all round about is well manured lying open fresh and faire and not voide of woods yet for proofe of Romane antiquity they finde otherwhiles peeces of the Emperours coine especially where the Friery stood for there they say was the plot upon which the ancient City was planted which the Scots after they had with a sudden out-road wasted all in their way in the yeere of our Redemption 1322. set on fire and burnt Since which time they have begunne to build nearer unto a greene hill by the river side on which standeth the castle great I cannot say nor of any antiquity but faire and strong And hard by it standeth upon the height of the hill the onely Church they have where the Monkes aliens had in times past a cell founded by Roger of Poictiers A little beneath which by a faire bridge over Lone in the descent and side of the hill where it is steepest hangeth a peece of a most ancient wall of Romane work seeming ready to reele Wery wall they call it after a later British name as it should seeme of this towne For they called it Caer Werid as one would say The Greene City happely of that fresh greene hill But I leave this to others John Lord of Moriton and of Lancaster afterwards King of England confirmed by Charter to his Burgesses of Lancaster all the liberties which he had granted unto the Burgesses of Bristoll And King Edward the third in the sixe and thirtieth yeere of his reign granted unto the Mayor and Bailives and Commonalty of the towne of Lancaster that Plees and Sessions should not elsewhere bee holden This towne seeth the Pole Arcticke that I may note so much elevated foure and fifty degrees and five minutes and standeth removed from the utmost line of
runneth out far and wide toward the West between the sea and Dunbritain Frith or Clyds-forth yet so indented and hollowed with nookes and creekes that here and there it is drawne into a narrow roome and then againe in the verie utmost skirt it openeth and spreadeth it selfe broad at more libertie whereupon some have called it the CHERSOMESUS that is The Biland of the NOVANTES But at this day their countrey containeth Galloway Carick Kyle and Cunningham Galloway in the Latine Writers of the middle time Gaelwallia and Gallovidia so called of the Irish who in times past dwelt there and terme themselves short in their owne language Gael is a countrey rising up everie where with bills that are better for feeding of cattell than bearing of corne the inhabitants practice fishing as well within the sea lying round about them as in little rivers and the Loches or meeres in everie place standing full of water at the foot of the hills out of which in September they take in Weeles and Weere-ners an incredible number of most sweet and favourite eeles whereby the make no lesse gain than others do by their little nagges which for being well limmed fast knit and strongly made for to endure travaile are much in request and bought from hence Among these the first place that offereth itselfe by the river DEA mentioned in Prolomee which keeping the name still full and whole they call d ee is Kircoubright the most commodious port of this coast the second Stewartie of Scotland which belongeth also to the Maxwels then Cardines a sort set upon a craggie and high rocke by the river Fleet and fensed with strong walls Neere unto it the river Ken corruptly read in Ptolomee IENA runneth into the sea after it is Wigton an haven towne with a narrow entrance unto it between the two rivers Bluidnoo and Crea which also is counted a Sheriffdome over which Agnew is Sheriffe In times past it had for Earle Archibald Douglasse renowned in the French warre and at this day by the favour of King James the sixth John Lord Fleming who deriveth his pedegree from the ancient Earles of Wigton Neere unto this Ptolomee placed the Citie LEUCOPIBIA which I know not to say truth where to seeke Yet the place requireth that it should be that Episcopall seat of Ninian which Bede calleth Candida Casa and the English and Scottish in the verie same sense whit-berne what say you then if Ptolomee after his manner translated that name in Greek 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is white-houses in stead whereof the Transcribers have thrust upon us Leucopibia which the Britans tearmed Candida Casa In this place Ninia or Ninian the Britan an holy man the first that instructed the South-Picts in Christian saith in the reigne of the Emperour Theodofius the younger had his seat and built a Church consecrated to the memorie of Saint Martin after a manner unusuall among the Britans as Bede saith who wrote that the English in his time held this country and when the number of the faithfull Christians multiplied an Episcopall See was erected at this Candida Casa A little higher there is a Bi-land having the sea insinuating it selfe on both sides with two Bayes that by a narrow neck it is adjoined to the firme land and this is properly called CHERSONESUS and PROMONTORIUM NOVANTUM commonly the Mull of Galloway Beyond this Northward there is a Bay taking a great compasse and full of Ilands into which very many rivers on everie side doe out-lade themselves But first of all from the verie cape or top of the Promontarie is ABRAVANUS which being set little out of his own place is so called of Ptolomee for Aber-Ruanus that is The mouth of Ruan For at this day that river is named Rian and the lake out of which it floweth Logh-Rian exceeding full of Herrings and Stone-fishes This Galloway had in times past Princes and Lords over it of whom the first recorded in Chronicles was Fergus in the reigne of Henrie the first King of England who gave for his Armes A Lion rampant Arg crowned Or in a shield Azur who after many troubles that he had stirred was driven to this exigent by King Malcolm that he gave his sonne Ucthred to the King for an hostage and himselfe wearie of this world tooke the habit of a Chanon at Holy Rood house in Edenburgh As for Ucthred Gilbert his younger brother tooke him prisoner in battaile and when hee had cut out his tongue and plucked his eyes forth of his head he cruelly bereaved him both of life and inheritance But within some few yeeres when Gilbert was dead Ucthreds sonne recovered his fathers inheritance who of a sister of William Morvill Constable of Scotland begat Alan Lord of Galloway and Constable of Scotland This Alan by Margaret the eldest daughter of David Earle of Huntingdon had Dervolgilda wife to Iohn Balliol and the mother of John Balliol King of Scotland who contended with Robert Brus for the Kingdome of Scotland and by a former wife as it seemeth hee had Helen married to Roger Quincy Earle of Winchester who thereby was Constable of Scotland like as William Ferrars of Groby the Nephew of the said Roger by a daughter and one of the heires But these Englishmen soone lost their inheritance in Scotland as also the dignitie of Constable which the Comnins Earles of Bucquan descended likewise from a daughter of Roger Quincie obtained until it was translated unto the Earls of Arroll But the title of the Lords of Galloway fell afterward to the family of the Douglasses CARRICTA CARRICT NOw followeth Carrict upon Dunbritain Frith faire to be seene with fresh pastures supplyed both by land and sea with commodities abundantly In this province Ptolomee placed RERIGONIUM a Creeke and RERIGONIUM a Towne For which BERIGONIUM is read in a verie ancient copie of Ptolomee printed at Rome in the yeere 1480. so that wee cannot but verily thinke it was that which now is called Bargeney A Lord it hath out of the family of the Kennedies which came forth of Ireland in the reigne of Robert Brus and is in this tract of high birth spread into many branches and of great power The chiefe of which linage is Earle of Cassile for this is the name of a Castle wherein he dwelleth by the river Dun upon the banke whereof he hath also another Castle named Dunnur and he is the hereditarie Bailiffe of this Countrey For this Carrict together with Kyle and Cunningham are counted the three Baillerries of Scotland because they that governe these with an ordinarie power and jurisdiction are called Ballives by a tearme that came up in the middle times and among the Greeks Sicilians and Frenchmen signifieth a Conservatour or Protector But in the age aforegoing Carrict had Earles for to say nothing of Gilberts of Galloway sonne unto whom King William gave all Carrict to bee possessed for
ever wee read that Adam of Kilconath was about the yeere 1270. Earle of Carrict and died serving in the holy-Holy-land whose onely daughter Mariha fell extremely in love with Robert Brus a beautifull young Gentleman as she saw him hunting and thereupon made him her husband advanced him with the title of Earle and with possessions unto whom she bare Robert Brus that most renowned King of Scots from whom the royall line of the Kings is descended But the title of the Earle of Carrict being left for a time to the younger sonnes of the family of Brus afterwards among other honours encreased the stile of the Princes of Scotland KYLE MOre inward from Clids-forth followeth KYLE plentifull in all things and as well inhabited In Bedes Auctarium it is called Campus Cyel that is The Field Cyel and Coil where it is recorded That Eadbert King of Northumberland annexed this with other territories unto his owne Kingdome In Ptolomees time there was known a place here named VIDOGARA haply Aire which is a Sherifdome hath a townlet also of merchandise and a well known port by a little river of the same name Touching which I can thinke of no better thing to write than these verses sent unto mee from Master Iohn Ionstoun AERA sive AERIA Parva urbs ast ingens animus in fortibus haeret Inferior nulli nobilitate virûm Aeris è campis haurit purissima coelum Incubat miti mollior aura solo Aeria hinc non Aera priùs credo illa vocata est Cum duris quid enim mollia juris habent Infera cum superis quod si componere fas est Aurea fo rs dici debuit illa priùs A City small but yet great mindes in valiant bodies rest For noblenesse of Gentlemen matching the very best Out of the fields what aire it drawes is right pure fresh and kinde The soile is milde and upon it there breathes a gentle winde Hence I suppose AERIA first not Aera call'd it was For what have elements to doe with matters hard as brasse But to compare low things with high if that I may be bold Then haply well it should have beene nam'd AUREA of old Besides the river Aire there be other two riverets that water this little territorie having many villages scattering along their bankes namely Longar neere unto which the Caufords and Cesnocke by which the Cambels families in this tract of good worship dwell upon the banke whereof standeth Uchiltre castle the seat of the Stewarts that are of the blood royall as who issued from the Dukes of Albanie and thereupon are the Barons of Uchiltrey out of which house was that noble Robert Stewart who kept continually with the Prince of Condie as an inseparable companion and was with him slain in France in battaile The government of Kyle belongeth by an heritable right to the Cambells of Louden as Bailiffe thereof CUNNINGHAM CUNNINGHAM adjoyning to Kyle on the East side and the North butteth upon the same Forth so close that it restraineth the breadth thereof which hitherto lay out and spread at large The name if one interpret it is as much as the Kings Habitation by which a man may ghesse how commodious and pleasant it is This territorie is watered with Irwin that divideth it from Kyle at the spring-head well neere whereof Kilmarnock sheweth it selfe the dwelling place of the Barons Boids of whom in the reigne of James the first Thomas by a prosperous gale of Court favour was advanced to the authoritie of Regent or Vice-Roy Robert his sonne to the dignitie of Earle of Arran and marriage with the Kings sister But soone after when the said gale came about and blew contrarie they were judged enemies to the State Robert also had his wife taken from him and given unto James Hamilton their goods were confiscate fortune made a game of them and when they had lost all they died in exile Howbeit their posteritie recovered the ancient honour of Barons and honorably enjoy it at this day At the mouth of the river Irwin standeth Irwin a Burrough with an haven so barred up with shelves of sand and so shallow withall that it can beare none other vessels but small barkes and boates Ardrossan also a pile belonging to the Montgomeries more above standeth higher over the Creeke this is a verie ancient and famous familiy as any other who have to shew for witnesse of their warlike prowesse Poununy a fort built with the ransome mony of Sir Henrie Percie surnamed Hot-Spur whom I. Montgomerie with his owne hand tooke prisoner in the battaile at Otterburne and led away captive Not farre from Ardrossan is Largis embrued with the blood of the Norwegians by King Alexander the third From whence as you follow the shore bending and giving in you meet with Eglington a faire castle which was the possession of certaine Gentlemen highly descended of the same surname from whom it came by marriage unto the Montgomeries who thereby received the title of Earles of Eglington But whence the said surname should come a man can hardly tell this I know that out of Normandie it came into England and that divers families there were of the same name but that in Essex from which Sir Thomas Montgomerie Knight of the order of the Garter descended in the reigne of Edward the fourth gave Armes a little different from these This noble linage is faire and farre spread and out of those of Gevan was that Gabriel de Lorges called Earl of Montgomerie Captain of the guard of Scots which Charles the fifth King of France instituted for defence of his owne person and his successors in testimonie of their fidelitie and his love toward them who in running at tilt slew Henrie the second King of France by occasion that a broken splint of his speare where the helmet chanced to be open entred at his eye and pierced into his brain and afterwards in that civill war wherein all France was in a broile whiles he took part with the Protestants he was apprehended and beheaded But the Cunninghams in this tract are counted to be the greater and more numerous family the chiefe whereof enjoying the honour of Earle of Glencarn dwelleth at Kilmauris and fetcheth his descent out of England and from an English Gentleman who together with other killed Thomas Archbishop of Canterburie How true this is I know not but they ground it haply upon a probable conjecture taken from an Archbishops pall which the Cunninghams give in their coat of Armes ISLE GLOTTA OR ARRAN WIthin the sight of Cunningham among sundry other Ilands GLOTA the Isle mentioned by Antonine the Emperour beareth up his head in the very Forth and salt water of the river Glota or Cluyd called at this day Arran of a castle bearing the same name Inwardly it mounteth up altogether with high rising hills at the bottome and foot whereof along the shore it is well inhabited The first Earle hereof that I can read of