GREECE with part of ANATOLIA La Graecia con Parte della Natolia ADVERSIS MAIOR PAR SECUNDIS To the Rt. Hon. Râ— Hencage Earle of Winchiâ—â—eâ—â—â—iscount Maidstone Baron Fitz Herbert of east Well Lord of the Royall Manour of 〈◊〉 Lord Leivtenant of the County of Kent and of the City and County of Canterbury Ambass adr. Extraordinary To the Grand Signeor in Ano. 1660. This Mapp is humbly D. D By B. Randolph Barnard Randolph Author Sold By Richard Palmer In Fuâ—â—â—â—ds Rents near Grayes Inn. And Tho Terrey at the Red Lyon without Newgate R. Palmer sculp THE PRESENT STATE OF THE ISLANDS IN THE ARCHIPELAGO Or ARCHES Sea of CONSTANTINOPLE and Gulph of SMYRNA With the Islands of CANDIA and RHODES Faithfully Describ'd by BER RANDOLPH To which is Annexed an INDEX Shewing the Longitude and Latitude of all the Places in the New Map of Greece Lately Published by the same Author Printed at the THEATER in OXFORD 1687. A. Terra ferma d' Achaja B. Citta di Negroponte C. Borghi D. Castello del Scoglio A. Part of Achaja B. City of Negroponte C. Suburbs or new Town D. Castle on the Islet NEGROPONTE LA Citta di Negroponte Capitale dell ' Isola di quel nome La quale ha doi miglia di Circuito senza li Borghi Dalli Greci su chiamata Calcis è devisa dalla Terra ferma della Provincia d' Achaja di un braccio di Mare nominato L'Euripo ò vero il Stretto di Negroponte Un Imperatore di Costantinopoli la donò con tutta L' Isola alli Signori Venetiani Il Anno 1204 per li Grandi Servitii che quella Republica hà resi al Imperio Diverse volte li Turchi minacciorono di pigliarla mà in riguardo della Fortezza del Sito differirono sin all' Anno 1469. E. Mahometto il Grande mandò una Armata di pus di 300. Navi Gallere altri bastimenti sottili Comparendo pol Iati in Persona alla Testa di Cento e vinti mille huomini Assedin la Citta per Mare è per Terra più d'un mese di continuo trauagliandola in piu forme Gli furono dati piu di vinti Assalti Generali Di Presedio è Guarniggione ui erano più di vinti quatro mille huomini che valorosamente resisterono al Nemico Sprezzando Il Offerte fattegli per rendere La Piazza La Citta fù presa per Assalto Generale a puochissimi del Presidio fù data La Vita Un Nobile Venetiano di Casa Erizzo con una picciola parte de suoi se retirò nel Castello del Scoglietto mà non poteva resistere a tante Forze havendo il Gran Signore promesso di donargli la vita si rese dopo fù per ordine suo segato per mezzo Una figlia toltagli fù tagliata in pezzi per non volere assentire alla volontà libidinosa del Tiranno In questa Speditione il Turco hà perduta più di quarauta mille huomini La Citta per hora è ben fortificata con Fortezze nove Le Fosse sono fatte piu fonde piu Larghe di quel che erano NEGROPONTE THE City of Negroponte Capital of the Island of that Name is two miles in Circuit without the Suburbs By the Greeks it was called Calcis and is devided from the main Land of the Province Achaja by an Arm of the Sea called the Euripo or Streight of Negroponte An Emperour of Constantinople gave it with the whole Island to the Venetian Lords Anno 1204. for the great Services that that Republick had render'd to the Empire Diverse times the Turks threatned to take it but in regard of the strength of its scituation they desisted till the year 1469. Mahomet the Great sent a Fleet of above 300 Ships Gallys and smaller Vessels he in Person appeared at the Head of above 〈◊〉 hundred thousand men besieging the City by Sea and Land above a month in which time above twenty assaults were given The Garrison were above twenty four thousand who Valiantly resisted the Enemy despising the offers made them to surrender the place The City was taken by General Storm very few of the Besieged were spared alive A Noble Venetian of the Family of Erizzo with a small Party of his retir'd into the Island Castle but could not resist so great a Power And the Grand Signior having promised to spare his life surrender'd himself He was afterwards sawn asunder by the Grand Signiors command and his Daughter cut in pieces for refusing to yield to the lustful will of that Tyrant The Turks lost above forty thousand men in this Siege The City is now well fortified with new fortifications and the Ditches made deeper and wider than they formerly were Sold by Mr. Nott in the Pall-Mall Mr. Basset at the George in Fleet-street Mr. Bennet at the Half-Moon in St. Paul's Church-yard and Mr. John Hill in Exchange-Alley NEGRO PONTE Anciently called EUBOEA IT Lyes to the North of Boeotia extending North West and South East about 120 miles Its Breadth at the broadest place not above 30. It was taken from the Venetians in the year 1471. The soil is very fertile affording all sorts of Graine Wine and Oyle as likewise Flesh and Fowl the Sea abounding with Fish Since the Turks have had possession of it most of the Greeks are Fled from the Villages and Townes So as the inland places are mostly supplyed by Albaneses who are the Shepherds and serve the Turks at their Farmes Formerly here were two Citys and 500. Townes and Villages Now there is but one which can be called a City which is the ancient Chalcis and now hath the name of the Island by the Turks it is called Egriboz It stands on a point of Land having the Sea two Thirds about it Betwixt it and the Maine is a small Island with a strong Castle From the Maine to the small Island is a bridge built upon six good Arches and thence to the Maine Castle is a draw-bridge about 30 yards Long. The Maine Castle is two miles in compass fortified with six very large Towers or Rondells The walls are high and thick with a dry ditch to the Land which is almost filled up with rubbish To the South of the Castle is a new Platt-Forme with severall very large Gunns which carry stone Shot of about 18 inches diameter When I was there in the year 1676. a Renegado was taken He was a Greek born on the Island of Candy turned Turk when the Vizier was at the Siege of Candy afterwards he marryed at Scio and lived very well but upon some discontent he made his escape from Scio and got to the Privateers of Malta with whom he lived some years landing on this Island he with some others were surprized and taken His companions were condemned to the Gallys but his sentence was to be shott away out of one of these great
leak which we could not come to stop unless we landed most of our Goods Being at anchor in the Port of Milo and continually pumping a Greek Priest told the Captain that he would undertake to gett a man that should stop the leak tho it were at the keele of the ship the Captain offer'd him fifty pieces of eight to get it done out of hand Next morning the Priest brings one of the Islanders he first took a good swig at the bottle and by our directions he soon found out the hole he ordered a piece of lead to be cut square and daubed with oakham and tarr which he nayled over the leak so as our ship was again very sound He first put the nailes into the lead then diving by degrees drove them into the ship side He was some times above a minute under water When they hear of any Vessel 's being cast away the first fair weather they go to the place and agree with the Inhabitants to whom they give the tenths of what they shall get and keep the rest The Basha of Candia gave them 200 dollars for diving to get the Guns of the Theresia a French ship blown up at Standia SCARPANTO Lyes almost midd-way between Candia and Rhodes It was formerly called Carpathos being above 80 miles in circumference There is no secure harbour for Gallys or small Vessels But for ships there is a good Port to the Eastward where the Town stands on a high hill having a ruined Castle The whole Island is Mountains on which are several Greek Monasterys one of which stands to the North dedicated to St. Athanasius which maintaines above 40 Callojeroes The inhabitants are very poor and seldom free from the visits of the Privateers Any ships which put in here may have all provision very cheap Partridges at half a dollar a hundred alive They say that the City of Rhodes was carried from this Island that is the Marble Here the Mountains are most Marble and to those that come from the South they make a glorious shew the Sun shining upon them Not a quarter of the Island is inhabited nor are there above three thousand Inhabitants To the South West part of this is the Island of CASSIO or CASOS Tho 't is but a small Island yet it abounds in all things necessary for life The middle of the Island is almost a plain well planted with Olive trees and Vine-yards with all sorts of Fruits To the West are five small Islands amongst which is very good riding for ships These Islanders have obtained a great favour from the Port by means of a Favorite of Solyman the Magnificent who obtained a Command that none of the tribute-Masters should molest them they shewing a discharge for 1000 dollars yearly to be paid at Constantinople for all taxes Yet are they but poor or at least pretend so Here is a Monastery of Candiotes who came from the City of Settia when that City was destroyed They live here very well and have the enjoyment of their possessions on the Island of Candia paying only the tenths to the Turks STAMPALIA called anciently ASTYPALA Is 80 miles in circumference being very mountanous It hath but one Town and that but a very small one The Port is large being to the North yet not of the best anchor hold being full of small Rocks The Turks coming to receive tribute from these people but they having notice retire into the Mountains leaving nothing of worth behind them Some years since they have agreed to give 1000 dollars per ann NIO NAMPHO St. ERINO or St. TORINO and POLICANDRO Are good Islands but they are continually plagued with the Privateers so as all that their land doth produce will but serve to pay their taxes if any can be said to have the preheminence it is St. Erino here being several Merchants who have some power amongst the Malteses and drive a smart trade buying up prize goods they carry them and sell them at Scalanova and other places in Asia bringing for returns cotton which is here wrought into Dimitys and which are the best in all the Archipelago great quantitys goe yearly to Candia Zante and other places These Merchants also agree at Constantinople for the tribute of the whole Island Most strangers are given to understand the whole Island is enchaunted such terrifying noises are somtimes heard and the ships moorings to the shoare being often losed A Dutch ship being in the Venetians service came to anchor in the Bay making a harsor fast to one of the Rocks and having understood how other Vessels were used to be served the Master had two men a shoar to watch least any should cut his harsor In the night there came a Catt to the water side one of the Dutch-men flings a stone at the Catt hit it and imagined that it was dead Immediatly came down certain over-grown Catts and so plagued the Dutch-men that they called to their ship for help upon which the Boat came a shoar to carry the man aboard but before they could come one of the men was almost dead Many such things the Venetian marriners give an account of having had the Cables very often cut close to the ship Which yet may be done in the night by a man swimming from the shoar This Island has suffered very much by Earthquakes a great part being swallowed up One part of it was blown up into the air which destroyed a whole Town with the Inhabitants MILO called formerly MELOS Is a large Island being between 80 and 90 miles in circumference The Turks call it Digirmenlick or Mill Island Milo also in the Vulgar Greek signifies a Mill. From hence yearly great quantitys of mill-stones are carryed to Constantinople The land is indifferent good for corn and oyl but the wine is very ordinary The land is not very high only to the South are two Mountains which to those who come from Cerigo seem like the tops of two Sugar loaves It has a very faire Harbour large and secure against all winds Here Privateers do usually come to make up their Fleets and it is most commonly their Rendezvous at their first coming into the Archipelago There is but one Town which stands in a very fine plaine being very well built with good stone The Capuchins have a Church and Convent The Privateers continually bring them some presents and most of the Islanders give them a great deal of Respect The Greeks have several Monasteries one of which stands on a Mountain to the South From whence in a clear day the Island of Candia may be discern'd The Privateers had made this place their chief Rendezvous for several years to almost the ruine of the Island but of late have not so much frequented it The women are equal in beauty with any in the Archipelago and pretend to exceed others in breeding most of them speaking Italian The men are industrious taking great pains to work their ground it being worser soil here than in any of
abundance of Cyprus trees Bonifacia stands on a rising ground having only the Walls of a Castle The Inhabitants are most Greeks very poor here is a Metropolitan who pretends to be next to the Arch-Bishop of Candia There are two Italian Churches the dores are made up with Walls to keep Cattle from going in The Greeks have four small Churches but one will contain more then all the Inhabitants They have now new named the place calling it Malafacia instead of Bonifaci good Face it being so much alter'd from what it was in former time From Bonifacia to the Labarinth is about 10 miles or three hours riding with most a plain Several men have several opinions about this building if I may call it so But one Signior Venetando who was born in a neighbouring Village gives this account that a certain King of this Island had so great a hatred for all women that he order'd this place for his Court and at last lived so private that he would not suffer any to come to him but such as ruled in his stead He would seldome come out but to worship at a Temple dedicated to Jupiter which stood close by it In this Labarinth he ended his days and had a famous Tombe built for him the ruins of which they shew you The Labarinth is above two miles about being so covered on the top with earth as it seems to be all of firm land we entred it with two torches and candles in Lanthornes having a line to direct us out again The way is plain under foot and archt over head some arches being about 10 foot high some more some less with several windings I made it my business to observe if there was any thing of a building in the pillars or sides but found it most an entire stone which they told me so cemented together that indeed it appeared so Here are a great many small places about 4 foot long 2 broad and 2 over which were for burying places There are abundance of batts which hang in clusters some are larger than ordinary We endeavoured to fright them scorching their wings by which we found there was life in them their sleep is observ'd to be much more sound with a No. wind than with a So. wind as the spring comes on they leave their palace We had almost ended our line being about 100 pikes which is above 80 yards and then returned out being a good hour in the Labarinth The damps are very great against rain it is always dropping but very dry with Northerly winds At the end is a lake and they tell you that some have attempted to go to it and have been drawn into it Our curiosity did not invite us to see it for were it not true as in probability 't is not the noisom smells are enough to stifle one To the South and close by is a small Village with two Churches which seem to have been Temples To the S with about 10 miles distant is that famous and great Mountain called Psillo Vuona formerly Mount Ida at 4 of the Clock it casts a shadow on the Labarinth on it are many pleasant Monasteries with Groves of Cypress trees and abundance of Fountains Some say the Coast of Barbary may be seen from the top From the Labarinth to Candia is about 10 hours riding most in a plain till within 10 miles of the City At the right hand about a mile from the road is a most stately Monastery dedicated to our blessed Saviour which was built by order of the Emperor Constantine the Great It hath always been continued to the Greeks and kept its splendor till the late Warr when it was much defaced There are abundance of Monasterys but very poor and some are shut up for want of Priests Candia Novo is about 6 miles from the City of Candia Southward being a strong Castle having Mount Jove to the West Here the Turks kept their Treasure and Ammunition in the Siege of Candia It is seated very pleasantly on a rising ground giving a prospect to the Sea. It is now chiefly inhabited by Greeks the Castle has a Garrison of Turks which the Basha intended to bring to Candia and demolish the Castle having writ to the Port about it but he had no answer Candia so famous and generally known for the brave defence it made against the Turk appears by the ruins to have been one of the best built Citys in the midd-land Seas It is seated on the North side of the Island almost midd-way between Canea and Sittia in a pleasant Bay having an artificial Port secured from the N o wind by a Mole about 200 yards long with a strong and large Castle at the head called Castel del Molo having 20 great Guns From the South is a low point of land which runs into the Sea No. which secures it from the Easterly wind 's and makes the entrance not above 30 yards wide upon this point of land the Turks have built a cover'd way with a very thick wall full of holes for small shot strongly arch't over reaching from the Arsenal to the entrance into the Port where is a small Fort with 4 great Guns also very strongly arch't over so as no Bomb can offend it At the right hand at coming out of the Gate to the Mole is a new Fort built with 4 very great Guns which lye level with the water over them are 8 smaller Guns This Fort is opposite to the mouth of the Port and is arch't over to prevent danger from Bombs or wild fire On the Mole are several great Guns planted with arches over them To the East of the Arsenal is the old Castle called La Battaria del Arsenal which is rebuilt with a ditch round it to bring in the Sea most cut out of a firm Rock The Port is almost round and secure against any wind for Gallys and smaller Vessels but there is not water enough for ships of any considerable bigness It is fill'd very much with the rubbish that the rains carryed into it from the City and would certainly have been choakt up in a few years had it not been for a French Merchant one Monsieur Dudei who to ingratiate himself with the Basha caused an Engine to be brought from Marselle to cleanse it There are the ruins of 12 Arches of the Arsenal and about 6 Arches are yet entire but they use them only to work in when the Gallys are there No Gallys having been built here The City is not repair'd towards the land where the Walls are so much shaken that it will require a great deal of time and cost to fortify them From the Port towards the West upon the Wall are 50 large Guns planted The Fort of St Andrea at the N. Wt. of the City is well repaired having a double wall towards the Sea. In all there are about 400 Guns planted on the Walls and out-works which are 6 miles in circumference The Gates of Candia are the best
from the top of the steeple a pretty way to be talked off But let us return to Paros Here are very large Quarries of most delicate white marble Here were all the stones cut which built the Temple of Apollo and other costly buildings on Delles They tell you that the Temple of Diana was built with the marble of this place Here the privateers come not so often to molest them as at Micone yet fare they alike with other Islanders for the Turks spare none and will have pretentions on all whether the Privateers come or no by which means they hinder the inhabitants here from being too rich They are of the Greek Religion having several Churches and Monasteries ANTIPAROS Had formerly a large Town upon it which the Inhabitants abandoned by reason of great taxes that were laid upon them from the the Turks But they are again returned and have now a small Town MORGO formerly called AMORGOS Lyes to the South of Nicsia about 30 miles being in compass between 50 and 60. Formerly it was very well inhabited having two Towns and ten Villages but in the late Warr betwixt the Venetians and Turks it is much dispeopled having now but one Town and some small Villages The Ground is very good and will bring forth any thing that is planted But the Privateers are so continually plaguing them that poor Souls they have not sufficient to pay their tribute The Port is very convenient and secure against bad weather To the South is a high Mountain on which there is a Sentinell to give notice if they see any ships coming from the North or South and so they are soon out upon their backs LEVITA ZINARA and NIZARI Are three good Islands but very thinly inhabited for they are in the way of the ships of Barbary who not only take what the Island produceth but will also carry away their Children saying they are Bastards of the Malteses and Legorneses PISCOPIA formerly called THOLOS Is a very pleasant Island producing great quantities of Cyprus trees with the loveliest Oranges and Lemons of any part in the Archipelago Here is a Fountain which hath a water that doth weigh near three Ounces in the Pound less than any water of the Islands about it Here is but one Town inhabited by Greeks Formerly it was a Bishops See but of late 't is come under the Bishop of Rhodes as is also Gira Carchi Lemonia and Simia STANCOI formerly called COOS Is a very large Island near 80 miles about lying to the West of the Bay of Halicarnassus Though Rhodes exceeds it in bigness this doth that as much in beauty most part of it being low land in comparison to the other Islands about it Here are woods of Cyprus trees of a great many years standing and the Turks are so pleased with them that they will not suffer them to be cut down The Inhabitants are Turks Greeks and some Jews There are several Villages inhabited by the Greeks and one large Town with a strong Castle neer the Haven which hath the name of the Island A little above the Castle is a very large and rich Seraglio for the Governour close to which runs a small Rivulet which is very clear and not deep Here are 20 very large Plane trees that make a most dellicate shade and being on a rising ground may be seen at a great distance Here is one very large tree which the Turks call Kavak agatz the body is above 30 foot about spreading its boughs to a great distance under the boughs are 12 very stately Marble pillars to support them but it appears they were for a Temple for part of a wall is yet remaining The Turks make this their place for recreation in hot weather there being several shops for Barbers and where Coffee and Sherbett is sold The River head is within musket shot of these trees At each side are many pleasant gardens full of all sorts of delicious fruits Oranges and Lemons are in great abundance Lemons are sold for half a Dollar the thousand All ships that go from Constantinople and those parts bound to Egypt or that come from Egypt and bound upwards usually call in here it being allmost the midd way between Rhodes and Scio. The Port is secured with a good Mote which to wonder is kept in repair No Christian is suffer'd to go into the Castle so the Cadde hath his house without Every night here is very good watch kept and the Privateers dare not venture to come neer for here are Gallys or ships of Barbary almost continually In some Maps I find this Island called Lango from whence they derive the word I know not for as the Turks call it Stancoi the Greeks do Stincos RHODES Lyes about 15 miles from the Asian shore and 110 from the Island of Candia being 120 miles in circumference It was taken from the Christians in the year 1522. After a valiant and Christian-like defence against Mahomet the great it surrender'd to Solyman the Magnificent who could only brag that he had won the Town for his loss of men was very great The City hath the name of the Island being seated in a Bay to the N Et. part of the Island having a most delightful Port with two strong Castles at the entrance where formerly stood that famous Colossus between whose legs ships with a full saile might pass into the Haven After the Turks became Masters of it most of the Inhabitants made their Escape some to Italy others to Candia leaving the Island almost quite uninhabited The Turks have since granted great privileges to those that will come and inhabit it so that many Greeks are returned and it is now very well peopled The Basha hath the Revenues of the Island and some other small Islands adjacent towards the maintaining five Gallys The Basha's name was Cochiuk Memett Ogle he had a great love for his Slaves not suffering any to abuse them To the North of the Town he has built a large Bagno very comodious for them where is a very neat chappel with two Altars one for the Roman Priests the other for the Greek Here are many Jews who live within the Castle but the Greeks are all in the Suburbs The Walls are in very bad repair SIMIE Is a small Island which is in a Bay to the N Wt. of Rhodes about 8 miles distant from the Asian shore from which it was separated as they say by an Earth-quake It hath but one Town upon the Island and that but small Their chief lively-hood is by diving for Spunges of which they make great merchandize supplying all parts in the Levant from whence they are brought to most places in Europe They will dive 15 fathom under water being brought up to this profession from their childhood they reckon those the best of men who can longest keep under water I was a passenger in the Zante Friggat with Captain Robert Wilkinson from Venice to Constantinople thro' bad weather we sprung a
some French Merchants bought the Tribute for 1500 dollars each Island which they gather'd from the Inhabitants by working Cotton's and were considerable gainers To the North of Serfu is TERMIA anciently called ELEUSINE It lyes at the entrance into the Bay of Athens being indifferent low land but not very fruitfull Here are very good purging Waters and hot Baths The Inhabitants are very industrious the men in Fishing the women at their Needles Here they say the Island habit was invented and hath been A Greek Priest Un Prete Greco A Woman of the Archipelago Una Deâ—'a dell ' Archipelago a habit above 1000 years but few of them know the true original as I was informed by Monsieur Giraud consul at Athens which was thus A Prince in Athens had a Daughter who was guilty of a great crime for which she was condemn'd to be banished and to make her the more despised it was ordered that the sleeves of her upper Garment should be cut off to her shoulders with her smock sleeves hanging down to her hands her Pettycoats cut short to her knees with her smock at full length to her ancles her hair hanging down behind Being sent in this manner to this Island the Inhabitants enquired who she was and being told that she was a Princess that came to bath in the waters for her healths sake her dress pleased the common people and now it continues their habit in most of the Islands only their heads are better drest They have their hair plated intermixed with Ribbon which is put round the hinder part of their heads with a fine muzlin veil carelessly thrown over Their bodys have no sleeves to them but the better sort will have great wings hang down behind richly embroider'd That which serves for a pettycoat comes to their knees being plaited very thick I have seen one which was but an ordinary one that had above 40 pikes of dimity which is about 30 yards some have above 60 pikes and so weighty are their clothes which they wear that they cannot be nimble in dancing To prevent the trouble of pulling up their coats they are open before and fastned with clasps and eyes Their Smocks hang down to their ancles but they are very narrow with sleeves fastned at the wrist and a loose sleeve over them which comes over their hands being broad Their Stockings are most of red cloth hanging in plaits some with the clocks embroider'd Their slippers are sol'd with cork the upper part covered with red plush The men have several sorts of habits But the better sort have a long Vest strait to their body doubled over before reaching down to their ancles girt about the loins and the sleeves button'd at the wrist Over which is another Vest hanging loose with broad sleeves of black cloth resembling the Turks to shew their superiority over their brother Christians Their heads are shaved they wear most of them a red cap but some a black ZEA formerly called CIA Lyes to the North of Termia not above 10 miles but it alters so much in the temperature of the climate as it could not be more were it so many degrees distant The land is all very high and seems at a distance like an Egg. The Turks call it Yamurta Adasi i. e. Egg Island There is a very good Port to secure any Fleet but it has a very narrow Entrance At each side is a small Chappel that to the West are the Ruins of a Temple and not far from hence is the Foundation of an old City which a Priest told me was formerly called Juli. The Town is five miles from the Port. I came here in the year 1670 in the Noahs Ark of Genoua in which there were several Passengers who were not acquainted with the place and very desirous to go up to the Town The Guide would tell them it was close by the Port but before they came to the Town they had travelled so long as to understand Greek for when they asked where the Town was the guide would answer them inne konda Ephende it is hard by Sr tho' they were five miles from it the way being all unevenly rocky which made the Genouese wish they had not put on their new shoes and clothes The Inhabitants are a very healthy people No Oranges Lemons nor Olives will grow here to the South of the Town and higher stand several wind-mills which are very often blown down not withstanding they are built with very good Stone and Morter This Island and Tine are very seldom without much wind The chief product of the Island is Corn Wine and Velania The wine is very small in comparison to that of other Islands Here I saw a woman that went to the fields to gather Velania big with child and another in her arms In the field she was delivered and brought both her children well home CIR A formerly call'd CYTHNOS It lyes about 12 miles from Tine South West some Mapps name it Suda The Town is at the N E t point standing on a hill having a fine Bay before it and three small Islands where ships come to anchor The Inhabitants are Greeks but most of the Church of Rome The Capucins have a Church and Monastery They are free from the Privateers upon the score of the Capucins Most of their incom is from gardening and manuring the ground From hence Tine is supply'd with a great store of fruit It abounds with Muskmelons and Watermelons Wine and Corn they have enough for their own use LEMNOS Is a fair and large Island lying almost in the middle betwixt the Asian shoare and Monte Santo having several good Ports and Havens about it but the Principal Port is called Mudro which lyes to the South East above which stands a City with an indifferent good Castle where is a Garison of Turks to this part of the Island Monte Santo casts a shaddow in the Summer time at the Sun 's going down The Country is most level ground affording great quantity of Pasture land and here are the best sheep of any place here TENE DOS A. The City and Castle of TENEDOS B. New Castle C. Suburbs where the Greeks liue A. Citta et Castello di TENEDO B. Castello novo C. Borght doue Stanno Li Greci about To the N Et. is a place called the Saline Salt panns close to which is gathered the Terra Sigillata of which the Turks make water-pots more esteemed than so much China with us it is used for medicines Before the late warre with the Venetians the Island was very well peopled both by Turks and Greeks having above 50 Towns and Villages but there are now not above 20 Villages and those very poorly inhabited The Venetians took the Island in the year 1662 and ruin'd most places of strength carrying away the Garrison of Turks The Earth of this Island or terra Sigillata is the chief thing which they boast of telling many fabulous stories about it of which several
for a soft sort of People calling them Prassinos which signifies green A Basha saying it was as impossible to see a wise Sciote as to see a green horse All the time that the Vizier was here there wàs not the least disorder amongst the Officers but all were in dovere and notwithstanding here were upwards of fifty thousand strangers in town and in the Fleet the price of provision was not advanced The Town lyes about 12 miles from the Asian shore almost opposite to a very strong Castle called Chisme From whence they are supply'd with most of their Provision Scio not affording sufficient for the Inhabitants and those passengers which are continually here All Vessels from Constantinople bound for the South usually call in here both going and coming There are above 30 Villages upon the Island which are well inhabited most by Greeks those who belong to the Mastick Villages to the South-ward have their hair long The time for gathering the Mastick is in August and September The Customer goes out to the Villages where they receive him with musick and feasting What Mastick is gathered it is all delivered to the Customer for the Grand Signiors use and he soon dispatches it up to Constantinople to serve in the Serraglio for several uses What remains of the Grand Signiors store the Customer sells to merchants It is very dangerous for the Inhabitants to keep any Mastick by them In Turky they use it to chew and some mixe it in their bread The Turks call it Sackes and the Island has the same name The Italians call it Mastice and Masticare is to chew When any company of women meet in Turky some Mastick is brought them on a server and each taking a little they are chewing and spitting most of the time It is comical to see the old women roale it about their gumms the effects which they finde by it are that it carrys away the flegme cleanses and prevents the aking of the teeth and causes a sweet breath Here is a continual watch kept round the Island when they see any ships or other Vessels in the day time they make a smoak and in the night shew lights the last Tower sends a man to acquaint the Customer what Vessels are on the Coast If any passengers land in any part of the Island the Sentinells accompany them to the Customer who inquires whence they came and what business they have there this is to prevent spies Betwixt this Island and the main are several small Islands called Spalmadori which are much frequented with Privateers as those before Metelino they lye about 12 miles to the North from the City In the year 1666 a Malta ship Commanded by the Chevalier Tincourt was at anchor between those Islands a fisher man passing by sees the ship and coming to Scio finds the Captain Basha with about 40 Gallys And going immediatly to him asked for Mustalook a gift upon good tydings for he had news to tell him The Basha hearing the news order'd the boat-man to have 10 dollars and put to Sea it being very calm The Sentinells from the Hills came down and acquainted Monsieur Tincourt that the Turkish Fleet was rowing toward the Islands so he with his boats towed the ship out to the Eastward before the Gallys came up to him and had time to provide himself to receive them A desperate Fight was maintain'd for several hours and not a breath of wind stirring so as the ship lay to their mercy and was boarded by them several times but were forc't off again leaving many men dead behind them In the afternoon a fresh gale of wind began at which those in the ship took courage and Forc't the Basha to retire under the Guns of the Castles of Scio Firing several broad sides into the Town The Captain Basha sent to the Capucins to have them to go off in a Boat and perswade the Captain to forbear firing into the Town The Capucins went aboard carrying some fresh provision as a present desiring Monsieur Tincourt to forbear for that most damage was to the poor Christians So he retir'd and went to Micone to repair his ship He was a French man born not above 24 years of age he built and fitted out the ship at his own charge stiling himself the Champion of Christ His Father or Uncle dyed in sight against the Turks while he was but a child to revenge whose blood he took this resolution not above two months after his ship was cast away on the Island of Scyros where he perished and of two hundred and fifty men not above 5 escaped which caused a great grief to all who had heard of his Valour He had not been in the Archipelago above two months before he Fought with the Turkish fleet and intended to have past the Dardanelli as a merchant ship so to do what mischief he could to the City of Constantinople by firing against it and then to make his escape out of the Castles or perish in the Action I lived in Smyrna when this fight was and had the particular relation from one of the Capucines The profit which the Turks receive from Scio is double what any other Island in the Archipelago payes Nor are there any subjects in the Turks Dominions of Greeks that are richer Their Habit is different from all other Islanders The women have their Coats to their ancles their bodys short and thick wasted their head dress with Linnen close to their ears raised up behind not unlike the Doge of Venice his Cornet in which their hair is laid They esteem great Leggs and little Feet some to be in the fashion will have 4 or more pair of stirrop Stockens Before their breasts hangs a bibb which reaches a little below their wast under it they have their hands cover'd when they are abroad when they dance a round dance they hold a pocket handkercheif in their hands that they may not have their hands touch't They have ear-rings neck-laces and braceletts of gold The men wear strait body'd Jackets with 4 broad skirts below the wast strait kneed breeches to button or tye at the knees shoes and stockens most according to the Genoueses they have a broad lappet of Linnen fastned to the neck-band of their shirts which hangs down behind over their backs Their hair is cut short to their Ears and generally they wear little red capps or broad brim'd hatts But their Vecchiardi do wear long loose Garments over their Jackets and breeches NICARIA formerly called ICARIA Lyes to the North of Scio about 25 miles distant It is in compass about 70 miles having no Harbour for great shipping and therefore uncapable of any trade The land is also very barren being most Mountainous and rocky so that they of Samos have a saying that when God made those Islands he order'd all the rubbish should be cast upon Icaria which they have no great reason to say for they have their share also of Mountains The Inhabitants
ship which tarryed some time at Constantinople and in her return called in at Messina Legorne and several Ports of Spain having undergone many stormes at Sea and at last arrived in safety in the River of Thames At Wollwich she was hall'd into the dry Dock and being searched there was found a great piece of a rock in the bottom of her so fast in that it could not but with much difficultie be got out It passed the keel of the ship and was so close fixed in that it stopt the water from coming in This piece of Rock was carried to his Majestys Closet at Whitehall where it is carefully preserved The Islands in the Gulf of SMYRNA THere are 5 Islands which are not inhabited nor have they at present any distinct name saving one which is the largest known to the English by the name of the Long Island by other Nations Isola d' Eglese It is about 10 miles in length and not very broad There are some ruins in it which shew it was formerly inhabited and the ruins of a large Temple is still to be seen Another Island there is in the Bay close to the land near Vurlaw which a Greek told me was held in great Veneration in former times having had several fair buildings now nothing remains great or remarkable but the Cave which is cut out of a firm Rock almost square and supported with 4 pillars of the same Rock To the Eastward is part of an Altar in the middle is a Well but the water is not fit to be drank it is so brackish From the Island it is about a quarter of a mile to the maine where formerly was a made-way in the Sea for people to pass over being 30 Foot broad This way is now almost consumed yet I have past over it on horseback This Island I judg must be the once famous Classomene The other Islands are of no note The HELLESPONT or entrance into the Sea of CONSTANTINOPLE THE Hellespont called by the Turks Bogass Hisar is the Southern-most strait between Europe and Asia the two Capes or head lands are Cape Grego on the European and Cape Janizary on the Asian shore which are about two miles one from the other having two new Castles which stand low and opposite to each other and were built after the great fight betwixt the Venetians and Turks in the year 1656 close under the old Castles These two Castles have no other name then the New Castles and the Cape has the same name although it be corrupted by our Seamen who call it Cape Janizary taking the word Yenni bysar new Castles for Janizary a Soldier as also going into Smyrna they call Cape Giobernole for Cara Borun From the new Castles to the old is about 20 miles These latter are not a mile wide formerly here were the Cities of Sestos and Abidos and these are by the Italians called the Dardanelli I believe from the ruins of a City formerly called Dardanum not far distant The Castles stand opposite to each other having above 100 Guns in each most of which lye level with the water so as it is almost impossible any ship should pass upward without leave The Gunners there are expert Marksmen I have seen tryall made of their skill In the year 1670 the Captain Basha was there when an empty Butt was cast into the Sea about a mile above the Castles which the Stream brought down and it being come between them in two shott it was sunk When the Basha departed he was saluted with two shott one past just at the Prow the other under the Poop of his Gally so near as the water spry'd into the Gally Here is a continual tyde or current which runs downwards to the South so strong as a Gally can hardly with a full stroak gain way against it nor was it ever known that the Stream did run upwards In the year 1665 I was a passenger in the Sampson Captain Samuel Chamblet Commander from Smyrna to Constantinople the winds being contrary we lay at anchor without the new Castles from May till the beginning of August for here in the Summer time the winds are most Northerly Our chief Mate Mr Frith was a very great Artist and often would make tryalls about the current which runs downwards he found that some times the water returned upward about 3 fathom deep when at the same time it run swift downwards above This experiment he tryed several times with one and the same effect Past the Hellespont the Island of Marmora shews it self being but small it has its name from the quantity of Marble which is there Several Slaves are employ'd to cut it out and some old Gallys transport it to Constantinople for the building those stately Mosques Bagnos and Palaces wherein it now flourishes Against the Gulph of Montania is the Island of Papa not inhabited About 16 miles from Constantinople are 7 Islands which some call the Islands of Princepe tho' one only hath that name which is the largest to it the Grecian Emperors did use to banish their Sons if guilty of any great fault now only one is inhabited called Chalcis which is to the No. of Princepe there being a small Village and two Monasterys in it Being so near to Constantinople I must give the Reader a short view of it The scituation for pleasantness and conveniencie and the Port for largness and security may sue for preeminence above all others The River between Constantinople and Galata is not broader then the Thames at London-bridge but hath much deeper water so that no bridg can be made over The largest ships may have their heads ashore and 18 fathom water at their stern The Arsenal next to that at Venice is the best in Europe The broadest street in Constantinople is not so broad as Lumbard street Very few houses if any are above three stories high they are built most with timber Their shops warehouses are most by the water side to which all people flock in the day time which makes it seem to be so populous The Grand Signor's Serraglio is seated on the most East point of the City having a prospect up into the Bosphorus 't is surrounded with a high wall near two miles round having upwards of 400 large Cypress trees regularly planted in it with many fair Summer-houses without the wall close to the Sea side The Turks call this City Stamboll to signify that it is abounding in all things and indeed it is the best supplyed with Flesh Fish Fowl Fruit and Corn of any great City in Europe Many having given a large account of it already I will forbear enlarging thereon In the year 1665 a Quaker who lived in Dover was perswaded to come to Constantinople to convert the Grand Signior those who set him on the design perswading him that he should have the gift of Tongues but he was disappointed in that and all other his expectations and without seeing the Grand Signor or
a man be hot in the plain in riding two or three hours up the hills he shall find so great an alteration in the air as is incredible About 15 miles from Retimo is a lovely Fountain called Bognare Bashe standing so between two mountains that at 2 in the afternoon it is shady continuing so all the rest of the day The water is so cold as will cause a dew upon any fruit that is put into it and be one never so hot to drink of this water it will do him no harm In the Summer time here are always some persons of Quality who bring their beds and continue for several days together The Sfacioti are a healthy strong and stout people they pretend to be of a very Ancient Stock some there are who derive their family from before the coming of our Saviour I saw a Callojero that was 110 years of age he was very lusty and could walk very well with a staff Part of these hills are under the Jurisdiction of the Bishop of Retimo and part under that of Canea From Retimo to Canea the Road is most by the Sea side passing by the Bay of Suda having the mountains of Sfacia on the left hand Canea is seated in a fine plain about 3 miles from the bottom of the Bay of Suda and upon the Sea to the North having a very fair harbour which may be called a double Port the one being round the other stretching away to the Eastward where are two Arsenals It is secure against the worst of weathers The entrance is narrow and not above 18 foot water To the West of which the Turks have built a new battery with 20 very large Guns and above it to the South is a great Cittadel in which are 40 good Guns To the East of the Entrance is another great Castle which commands the part called the Sabioniera with the Arsenal Round about the Port is a broad key which is always full with merchandize and is little inferior to the Port at Marseilles The houses are all very well built and not much batter'd The Walls are in very good repair having a dry ditch about 30 yards broad and 6 deep from the land on the other side The Walls are about 30 foot high within them the earth is raised about 10 foot higher than the Walls there being a walk between There is a mount which they call the Marteningo where formerly were 10 Guns but now it is of no use Toward the land there are 4 Bastions To the South is the great gate called La Porti di Retimo To the West is a mace placed on the Wall to shew where a Basha at the taking of the place first enter'd the City before the Gate is a half moon built of earth about 20 foot high at each end is a small Pyramid of mortar and sculls which are the sculls of Christians who were slain before the place in the year 1666. The Venetians then attempting to regain the place under the conduct of Marquis Vila a Savojard 5000 men were landed at Culatte at the bottom of the Bay of Suda and were encamped before the City several days The Turks sallyed out of the City to the Wt. surprizing the Christians and had a very great victory pursuing them to the Fort which was built at the bottom of the Bay. In this flight there were above 1500 killed and several taken Prisoners amongst the latter was one Captain Scot a Scotch-man who had his hand upon the draw-bridg of the City he was carryed afterwards to Smyrna in the Gally's and there redeem'd by the English Merchants but when he came to Venice his arrears were paid him and he returned his ransom to Smyrna which remain'd in bank till another like occasion should present it self The City is near three miles in circumference and is much better Inhabited than Candia having a Basha and other officers as in Candia only in all Councils the other hath the precedence The Country about is very pleasant being all a plain for above 6 miles to the South and West planted with young Olive trees so that it seems to be a Garden It is well supply'd both with Flesh and Fish of the latter there is great store for besides the Sea there is a Lake about 10 miles to the South which furnishes them with great variety of all sorts The trade is much greater here than at Candia it lying so convenient for the Morea Italy and other places The French have a great trade for oyl wools wax cheese and several other commodities having a Consul and two Merchants The Venetians have also a Consul but most of their oyl is shipped off from Suda to which place it is brought from Retimo and other places thereabout All great ships come to an anchor at a place called St Todoro being 2 small Isletts about 5 miles to the West of the Port of Canea there is very good anchorage and a small Fort to defend them On one Island notwithstanding it seems to be all stone and is very low there are several Fountains of water No Greeks live within the City They have a new town built to the South about half a mile off where are two long streets very commodious and here they injoy all the liberty they desire their Churches are open and the Bishop hath a very pleasant house living in good Esteem Close to this town runs a pleasant River which is seldom dry There are likewise several pleasant gardens well stock't with all sorts of delicious fruits The Turks have also some gardens here but they must retire into the City an hour before Sun set winter and summer or else must remain out all night the gates being then shut and a strict watch kept about the Walls The Turks of this place are generally very rich and incline to trade giving all encouragement to have Merchants come and reside amongst them There was an English merchant here one Mr Trenchard who was recommended to the French Consul to have his assistance but in a little time he grew weary of the place Here they keep their oyl in great Vessels called Tini which are square and made of wood some will hold 20 Tunns They have a special regard to preserve the esteem of their oyl nor will they force a merchant to take any longer than it comes clear not mixing the bottoms as in some parts they will by taking a hollow cane and putting it to the bottom by blowing through which they raise the foot of the oyl so that thick and thin goes together Here they sell the Foot of the oyl at an under price and this serves to make sope Most parts of Turky have an Esteem for Canea oyl above others Some will have it to be the better for that the trees are all so young others impute it to their care in the making for here they gather all their Olives whereas in the Morea they thrash them down with poles The wines are
generally Esteem'd above all others The red muscadine they call here Leattico 't is a richer wine than Tent at Cadize and much more pleasant I have seen it sold at 15 gallons for half a dollar White muscadine is not so good as that at Luxuria in Ceffalonia Some are of opinion that in the Warr the true Muscadine grape was lost on the Mountains there are smaller sorts of Wine so as a man may have what sort he pleases All sorts of Provision are very plentiful but in the Summer time the mutton hath generally a bad tast which proceeds from their feeding on some hearb on the Mountains Here are Fowl of all sorts in abundance but especially a bird called Beccha Figge which is almost a lump of Fat they are valued about 4 for an asper or 8 for a penny Turtle-doves and Quailes are very plentifull Their Beef is small but very sweet Of Fruits there is no sort but what they have I never saw larger pears than are brought from the Mountains being a sort of Sugar pear Their muskmelons are very good but their water-melons are singular Salating there is all the year of all sorts no place is esteem'd to have larger and better Endive and Carduus than there are here I have seen Sugar canes of a great height full as good as what are brought from Grand Cairo There are abundance of Simples which are bought here for France and Italy Some say the reason why no Venemous thing will live on this Island is the quantity of Dittamo that grows here Others say it has only been since St Paul set foot upon the Island Most of the Candiotes pretend to have great knowledg in Simples The women are experienced Doctoresses One I have reason to say was very skilful she having in a little time wrought a great cure upon me For by accident a Bullet having past through my Legg I applyed my self to her and in 15 days she cured it She did not allow me to eat any flesh till it was perfectly well They have several antidotes against the Plague but they had not the effect they pretended for several of the Doctoresses were swept away by that disease but most certain it is that after St John Baptists day it did here abate as they always observe it in most of these Eastern parts There are several other places that have had the name of Citys which are now heaps of ruins many hundred stately Pallaces there were that now have only some Walls and those most fallen down The Candiots keep their Habit that is the women but the men are most alla Turchesca especially the better sort They are as Ignorant of the Antiquity of their Country as the Moreotes that have been above 200 years in slavery There is no Latin Church upon the whole Island as I was informed but what is shut up or converted to the Turks use Before the Turks conquered this Island there were above a million of Souls whereas now there are not 80000 of which not obove 30000 Turks on the whole Island The Isletts which the Venetians have about the Island of CANDIA are 1. CArabusa to the West end of the Island about six miles from the main having a very good Port between the Islett and the main Island the Castle is very strong having about 80 Guns In the late Warr it withstood several assaults but it lying so far from any considerable City the Turks did not so much mind it as they did Suda Here is a continual Garrison of Venetian soldiers and a Proveditore who is under the Inquisitore at Suda In time of peace with the Turks they have a continual trade and very good correspondence with them having all sorts of provision at very reasonable rates 2. Spina Longa lyes about 40 miles to the East of the City of Candia at the Entrance of a great Bay. The Islett is not above a mile and a half about it has a very good Fortification round it besides 't is steep all about so as an Enemy cannot well land It is not above a mile from a point of land where the Turks raised a Battery and continued for a week to batter the Castle but to little Purpose for most of their dwellings are in Caves under ground Here and at Carabusa is no water but what is brought them by shipping or what they save in great Cisterns and Jarrs Here is also a Proveditore and a Garrison of Venetian soldiers 3. Suda lyes in a great Bay about 30 miles from Retimo West 12 miles from Canea and 9 from the bottom of the Bay South East having the land to the South about a mile and to the N Wt. not above half a mile distant The Island is about 2 miles in circumference not above 50 foot above the water at the highest part being all rock and steep round To the S Wt. lyes a long Rock about 10 foot above water and not above 20 from the Island against it is the Entrance up to the Castle very steep and winding having two Gates and a strong counterscarp before you pass into the main Castle The Wall about the Island is low but very thick To the Wt. is a Mount called il Marteningo about 30 Foot high and 300 in circumference very strongly built with small stone and mortar which has above 1000 shot in it They are so fast in that it would indanger its falling if they should be pull'd out The Castle is quite round the Islett wherein and upon the Marteningo are about 120 Guns planted The Turks have several times attempted to take this place and to that purpose in the year 1659 they built 6 Castles three on each side of the Bay from whence they continued to batter it and secured the Harbour so as no Ship or Gally could come to bring them succor but what in the night small Vessels would adventure to get in In the year 1665 the Captain Basha attempted to assault it he came with 45 Gally's but durst not adventure to land any men He caused the Gallys to batter that part which is to Sea-ward while on the other side they continually fired from the 6 Forts The Venetian Fleet was so dispersed that they could not come to relieve them The besieged were much streightned for provision but most for want of water for above a month they had but a pint a day and were so disheartned that they near inclined to surrender the place But it pleased God to shew them his goodness in a signal manner by a shot from the Enemy which did cleave a rock in sunder at the bottom a little above the Sea out of which sprang a water which sufficed them to drink I have seen the Fountain and drank of the water tho it is not very pleasant Several Officers that were in the Island when it was Besieged avouched this for a truth It being noted in the Venetian History of Suda The winds coming about Northerly the Venetian Fleet came from