Provision because he was not so forward to go thither as Captain Davis However at last these differences were made up and we concluded to go into the Bay of Panama to a Town called La Velia but because we had not Canoas enough to land our Men we were resolved to search some Rivers where the Spaniards have no commerce there to get Indian Canoas CHAP. VII They leave the Isle of Plata Cape Passao The Coast between that and Cape St. Francisco and from thence on to Panama The River of St. Jago The Red and the White Cotton tree The Cabbage tree The Indians of St. Jago River and its Neighbourhood The Isle of Gallo The River and Village of Tomaco Isle of Gorgona The Pearl-Oysters there and in other parts The Land on the Main Cape Corrientes Point Garachina Island Gallera The Kings or Pearl Islands Pacheque St. Paul 's Island Lavelia Nata The Clamfish Oysters The pleasant Prospects in the Bay of Panama Old Panama The New City The great Concourse there from Lima and Portobel c. upon the Arrival of the Spanish Armada in the West Indies The Course the Armada takes with an incidental Account of the first Inducements that made the Privateers undertake the passage over the Isthmus of Darien into the South Seas and of the particular beginning of their Correspondence with the Indians that inhabit that Isthmus Of the Air and Weather at Panama The Isles of Perico Tabago apleasant Island The Mammee tree The Village Tabago A Spanish Stratagem or two of Capt. Bond their Engineer The Ignorance of the Spaniards of these parts in Sea Affairs A Party of French Privateers arrive from over Land Of the Commissions that are given out by the French Governour of Petit-Guavres Of the Gulf of St. Michael and the Rivers of Congos Sambo and Sta Maria and an Error of the common Maps in the placing Point Garachina and Cape St. Lorenzo corrected Of the Town and Gold Mines of Sta Maria and the Town of Scuchadero Capt. Townley 's Arrival with some more English Privateers over Land Jars of Pisco wine A Bark of Capt. Knight 's joins them Point Garachina again Porto de Pinas Isle of Otoque The Pacquet from Lima taken Other English and French Privateers arrive Chepelio one of the sweetest Islands in the World The Sapadillo Avogato pear Mammee Sappota Wild Mammee and Star apple Cheapo River and Town Some Traversings in the Bay of Panama and an account of the Strength of the Spanish Fleet and of the Privateers and the Engagement between them THE 23d day of December 1684 we sailed from the Island Plata towards the Bay of Panama The Wind at S. S. E. a fine brisk gale and fair weather The next morning we past by Cape Passao This Cape is in lat 00 d. 08 m. South of the Equator It runs out into the Sea with a high round point which seems to be divided in the midst It is bald against the Sea but within land and on both sides it is full of short Trees The Land in the Country is very high and mountainous and it appears to be very woody Between Cape Passao and Cape Saint Francisco the Land by the Sea is full of small Points making as many little Sandy Bays between them and is of an indifferent heighth cover'd with Trees of divers sorts So that sailing by this Coast you see nothing but a vast Grove or Wood which is so much the more pleasant because the Trees are of several forms both in respect to their growth and colour Our design was as I said in my last Chapter to search for Canoas in some River where the Spaniards have neither Settlement nor Trade with the native Indians We had Spanish Pilots and Indians bred under the Spaniards who were able to carry us into any Harbour or River belonging to the Spaniards but were wholly unacquainted with those Rivers which are not frequented by the Spaniards There are many such unfrequented Rivers between Plata and Panama indeed all the way from the Line to the Gulf of St. Michaels or even to Panama it self the Coast is not inhabited by any Spaniards nor are the Indians that inhabit there any way under their subjection except only near the Isle Gallo where on the banks of a Gold River or two there are some Spaniards who work there to find Gold Now our Pilots being at a loss on these less frequented Coasts we supply'd that defect out of the Spanish Pilot books which we took in their Ships These we found by experience to be very good Guides Yet nevertheless the Country in many places by the Sea being low and full of openings Creeks and Rivers it is somewhat difficult to find any particular River that a man designs to go to where he is not well acquainted This however could be no discouragement to us for one River might probably he as well furnished with Indian Canoas as another and if we found them it was to us indifferent where yet we pitcht on the River Saint Jago not because there were not other Rivers as large and as likely to be inhabited with Indians as it but because that River was not far from Gallo an Island where our Ships could anchor safely and ride securely We past by Cape St. Francisco meeting with great and continued Rains The Land by the Sea to the North of the Cape is low and extraordinary woody the Trees are very thick and seem to be of a prodigious height and bigness From Cape Saint Francisco the Land runs more Easterly into the Bay of Panama I take this Cape to be its bounds on the South side and the Isles of Cobaya or Quibo to bound it on the North side Between this Cape and the Isle Gallo there are many large and navigable Rivers We passed by them all till we came to the River St. Jago This River is near 2 d. North of the Equator It is large and navigable some leagues up and 7 leagues from the Sea it divides it self into two parts making an Island that is 4 leagues wide against the Sea The widest branch is that on the S. W. side of the Island Both branches are very deep but the mouth of the narrower is so choakt with sholes that at low water even Canoas cannot enter Above the Island it is a league wide and the Stream runs pretty streight and very swift The Tide flows about 3 leagues up the River but to what height I know not Probably the River hath its original from some of the rich Mountains near the City of Quito and it runs thro a Country as rich in soil as perhaps any in the world especially when it draws within 10 or 12 leagues of the Sea The Land there both on the Island and on both sides of the River is of a black deep Mold producing extraordinary great tall Trees of many sorts such as usually grow in these hot Climates I shall only give an account of the
We were 2 Ships and 3 Barks in Company viz. Captain Davis Captain Swan a Fireship and 2 small Barks as Tenders one on Captain Davis his Ship the other on Captain Swan's We weighed before day and got out all but Captain Swan's Tender which never budged for the men were all asleep when we went out and the Tide of flood coming on before they waked we were forced to stay for them till the next day The 8th day in the morning we descried a sail to the West of us the Wind was at South and we chased her and before noon took her She was a Ship of about 90 Tun laden with Flower she came from Truxillio and was bound to Panama This Ship came very opportunely to us for Flower began to grow scarce and Captain Davis his men grudg'd at what was given to Captain Swan who as I said before had none but what he had from Captain Davis We jogged on after this with a gentle gale towards Gorgonia an Island lying about 25 leagues from the Island Gallo The 9th day we anchored at Gorgonia on the West side of the Island in 38 fathom clean ground not 2 Cables length from the shore Gorgonia is an uninhabited Island in lat about 3 degrees North It is a pretty high Island and very remarkable by reason of 2 saddles or risings and fallings on the top It is about 2 leagues long and a league broad and it is 4 leagues from the Main At the West-end is another small Island The Land against the Anchoring place is low there is a small sandy Bay and good landing The Soil or Mold of it is black and deep in the low ground but on the side of the high Land it is a kind of a red clay This Island is very well cloathed with large Trees of several sorts that are flourishing and green all the year It 's very well watered with small Brooks that issue from the high Land Here are a great many little black Monkeys some Indian Conies and a few Snakes which are all the Land Animals that I know there It is reported of this Island that it rains on every day in the year more or less but that I can disprove however it is a very wet Coast and it rains abundantly here all the year long There are but few fair days for there is little difference in the seasons of the year between the wet and dry only in that season which should be the dry time the rains are less frequent and more moderate than in the wet season for then it pours as out of a Sieve It is deep water and no anchoring any where about this Island only at that West side The Tyde riseth and falleth 7 or 8 foot up and down Here are a great many Perewincles and Muscles to be had at low water Then the Monkeys come down by the Sea side and catch them digging them out of their Shells with their Claws Here are Pearl-Oysters in great plenty They grow to the loose Rocks in 4 5 or 6 fathom water by beards or little small roots as a Muscle These Oysters are commonly flatter and thinner than other Oysters otherwise much alike in shape The fish is not sweet nor very wholsome it is as slimy as a Shell-Snail they taste very copperish if eaten raw and are best boyl'd The Indians who gather them for the Spaniards hang the meat of them on strings like Jews-ears and dry them before they eat them The Pearl is found at the head of the Oyster lying between the meat and the shell Some will have 20 or 30 small Seed-Pearl some none at all and some will have 1 or 2 pretty large ones The inside of the shell is more glorious than the Pearl itfelf I did never see any in the South Seas but here It is reported there are some at the South end of Callifornia In the West Indies the Rancho Rejs or Rancheria spoken of in Chap. 3. is the place where they are found most plentifully 'T is said there are some at the Island Margarita near St. Augustin a Town in the Gulf of Florida c. In the East Indies The Island Ainam near the South end of China is said to have plenty of these Oysters more productive of large round Pearl than those in other other places They are found also in other parts of the East Indies on the Persian Coast. At this Island Gorgona we rummaged our Prize and found a few Boxes of Marmalade and 3 or 4 Jars of Brandy which were equally shared between Captain Davis Captain Swan and their Men. Here we fill'd all our Water and Captain Swan furnished himself with Flower afterward we turned ashore a great many Prisoners but kept the chiefest to put them ashore in a better place The 13th day we sailed from hence toward the Kings Islands We were now 6 Sail 2 Men of War 2 Tenders a Fireship and the Prize We had but little Wind but what we had was the common Trade at South The Land we sailed by on the Main is very low towards the Sea side but in the Country there are very high Mountains The 16th day we passed by Cape Corrientes This Cape is in lat 5 d. 10 m. it is high bluff Land with 3 or 4 small Hillocks on the top It appears at a distance like an Island Here we found a strong current running to the North but whether it be always so I know not The day after we passed by the Cape we saw a small white Island which we chased supposing it had been a Sail till coming near we found our error The 21st day we saw Point Garrachina This Point is in lat 7 d. 20 m. North it is pretty high Land rocky and destitute of Trees yet within Land it is Woody It is fenced with Rocks against the Sea Within the Point by the Sea at low Water you may find store of Oysters and Muscles The Kings Islands or Pearl Keys are about 12 leagues distant from this Point Between Point Garqchina and them there is a small low flat barren Island called Gallera at which Captain Harris was sharing with his Men the Gold he took in his pillaging Sancta Maria which I spake of a little before when on a sudden 5 Spanish Barks fitted out on purpose at Panama came upon him but he fought them so stoutly with one small Bark he had and some few Canoas boarding their Admiral particularly that they were all glad to leave him By this Island we anchored and sent our Boats to the Kings Islands for a a good careening place The Kings Islands are a great many low woody Islands lying N. W. by N. and S. E. by S. They are about 7 leagues from the Main and 14 leagues in length and from Panama about 12 leagues Why they are called the Kings Islands I know not they are sometimes and mostly in Maps called the Pearl Islands I cannot imagin wherefore they are called so for I did
the Horse-men had each abrace of Pistols and some short Guns If the Foot had come in they had certainly destroy'd all our men When the skirmish was over our men plac'd the two wounded men on Horses and came to their Canoas There they kill'd one of the Horses and drest it being afraid to venture into the Savannah to kill a Bullock of which there was store When they had eaten and satisfy'd themselves they returned aboard The 25th day being Christmas we cruized in pretty near the Cape and sent in 3 Canoas with the Strikers to get Fish being desirous to have a Christmas dinner In the afternoon they returned aboard with 3 great Jew-fish which feasted us all and the next day we sent ashore our Canoas again and got 3 or 4 more Captain Townly who went from us at Chametly came aboard the 28th day and brought about 40 bushels of Maiz. He had landed to the Eastward of Cape Corrientes and march'd to an Indian Village that is 4 or 5 leagues in the Country The Indians seeing him coming set 2 houses on fire that were full of Maiz and run away Yet he and his men got in other houses as much as they could bring down on their backs which he brought aboard We cruized off the Cape till the first day of January 1686 and then made towards the Valley Valderas to hunt for Beef and before night we anchored in the bottom of the Bay in 60 fathom water a mile from the shore Here we stay'd hunting till the 7th day and Captain Swan and Captain Townly went ashore every morning with about 240 men and marched to a small hill where they remain'd with 50 or 60 men to watch the Spaniards who appear'd in great companies on other hills not far distant but did never attempt any thing against our men Here we kill'd and salted above 2 months meat besides what we spent fresh and might have kill'd as much more if we had been better stor'd with Salt Our hopes of meeting the Philippine Ship were now over for we did all conclude that while we were necessitated to hunt here for Provisions she was past by to the Eastward as indeed she was as we did understand afterwards by Prisoners So this design fail'd through Captain Townley's eagerness after the Lima Ship which he attempted in Acapulco Harbour as as I have related For though we took a little Flower hard by yet the same Guide which told us of that Ship would have conducted us where we might had store of Beef and Maiz but instead thereof we lost both our time and the opportunity of providing our selves and so were forced to be victualling when we should have been cruizing off Cape Corrientes in expectation of the Manila Ship Hitherto we had coasted along here with 2 different designs The one was to get the Manila Ship which would have enriched us beyond measure and this Captain Townly was most for Sir Tho. Cavendish formerly took the Manila Ship off Cape St. Lucas in California where we also would have waited for her had we been early enough stored with Provisions to have met her there and threw much rich Goods over-board The other design which Captain Swan and our Crew were most for was to search along the Coast for rich Towns and Mines chiefly of Gold and Silver which we were assured were in this Country and we hoped near the shore not knowing as we afterwards found that it was in effect an Inland Country its Wealth remote from the South Sea Coast and having little or no commerce with it its Trade being driven Eastward with Europe by La Vera Cruz. Yet we had still some expectation of Mines and so resolved to steer on farther Northward But Captain Townly who had no other design in coming on this Coast but to meet this Ship resolved to return again towards the Coast of Peru. In all this Voyage on the Mexican Coast we had with us a Captain and 2 or 3 of his Men of our friendly Inaians of the Isthmus of Darien who having conducted over some Parties of our Privateers and expressing a desire to go along with us were received and kindly entertained aboard our Ships and we were pleas'd in having by this means Guides ready provided should we be for returning over Land as several of us thought to do rather than sail round about But at this time we of Captain Swan's Ship designing farther to the North West and Captain Townly going back we committed these our Indian Friends to his care to carry them home So here we parted he to the East-ward and we to the Westward intending to search as far to the Westward as the Spaniards were settled It was the 7th day of January in the morning when we sailed from this pleasant Valley The Wind was at N. E. and the weather fair At 11 a clock the Sea-wind came at N. W. Before night we passed by Point Pontique this is the West point of the Bay of the Valley of Valderas and is distant from Cape Corrientes 10 leagues This point is in lat 20 d. 50 m. North it is high round rocky and barren At a distance it appears like an Island A league to the West of this point are two small barren Islands called the Islands of Pontique There are several high sharp white Rocks that lye scattering about them we past between these rocky Islands on the left and the Main on the right for there is no danger The Sea-coast beyond this point runs Northward for about 18 leagues making many ragged points with small sandy Bays between them The Land by the Sea side is low and pretty woody but in the Country full of high sharp barren rugged unpleasant Hills The 14th day we had sight of a small white Rock which appears very much like a Ship under sail This Rock is in lat 21 d. 15 m. it is 3 leagues from the Main There is a good Channel between it and the Main where you will have 12 or 14 fathom water near the Island but running nearer the Main you will have gradual soundings till you come in with the shore At night we anchored in 6 fathom water near a league from the Main in good oazy ground We caught a great many Cat-fish here and at several places on this Coast both before and after this From this Island the Land runs more Northerly making a fair sandy Bay But the Sea falls in with such violence on the Shore that there is no landing but very good anchoring on all the Coast and gradual soundings About a league off shore you will have 6 fathom and 4 mile off shore you will have 7 fathom water We came to an anchor every evening and in the mornings we sailed off with the Land-wind which we found at N. E. and the Sea-breezes at N. W. The 20th day we anchored about 3 miles on the East side of the Islands Chametly different from those of that name before-mentioned for
men that was left ashore I shall speak more of him hereafter He and the rest of them told me that after the Ship was out of sight the Natives began to be more kind to them than they had been before and perswaded them to cut their Hair short as theirs was offering to each of them if they would do it a young Woman to Wife and a small Hatchet and other Iron Utenfils fit for a Planter in Dowry and withal shewed them a piece of Land for them to manage They were courted thus by several of the Town where they then were but they took up their head-quarters at the house of him with whom they first went ashore When the Ship appeared in sight again then they importuned them for some Iron which is the chief thing that they covet even above their Ear-rings We might have bought all their Ear-rings or other Gold they had with our Iron-bars had we been assur'd of its goodness and yet when it was touch'd and compared with other Gold we could not discern any difference tho it look'd so pale in the lump but the seeing them polish it so often was a new discouragement This last Storm put our Men quite out of heart for although it was not altogether so fierce as that which we were in on the Coast of China which was still fresh in memory yet it wrought more powerfully and frighted them from their design of cruising before Manila fearing another Storm there Now every Man wisht himself at home as they had done an hundred times before but Captain Reed and Captain Teat the Master perswaded them to go towards Cape Comorin and then they would tell them more of their minds intending doubtless to cruize in the Red Sea and they easily prevailed with the Crew The Eastern Monsoon was now at hand and the best way had been to go through the Streights of Malacca but Captain Teat said it was dangerous by reason of many Islands and Shoals there with which none of us were acquainted Therefore he thought it best to go round on the East side of all the Philippine Islands and so keeping South toward the Spice Islands to pass out into the East Indian Ocean about the Island Timor This seemed to be a very tedious way about and as dangerous altogether for Sholes but not for meeting with English or Dutch Ships which was their greatest fear I was well enough satisfied knowing that the farther we went the more Knowledge and Experience I should get which was the main thing that I regarded and should also have the more variety of places to attempt an Escape from them being fully resolv'd to take the first opportunity of giving them the slip CHAP. XVI They depart from the Bashee Islands and passing by some others and the N. End of Luconia St. John's Isle and other of the Philippines they stop at the two Isles near Mindanao where they re-fit their Ship and make a Pump after the Spanish fashion By the young Prince of the Spice-Island they have News of Captain Swan and his men left at Mindanao The Author proposes to the Crew to return to him but in vain the story of his Murder at Mindanao The Clove-Islands Ternate Tidore c. The Island Celebes and Dutch Town of Macasser They Coast along the East side of Celebes and between it and other Islands and Sholes with great Difficulty Shy Turtle Vast Cookles A wild Vine of great Virtue for Sores Great Trees one excessively big Beacons instead of Buoys on the Sholes A Spout a Description of them with a story of one Uncertain Tornadoes Turtle The Island Bouton and its chief Town and Harbour Callasusung The Inhabitants Visits given and receiv'd by the Sultan His Device in the Flag of his Proe his Guards Habit and Children Their Commerce Their different esteem as they pretend of the English and Dutch Maritime Indians sell others for Slaves Their Reception in the Town A Boy with 4 Rows of Teeth Parakites Crockadores a sort of White Parrots They pass among other Inhabited Islands Omba Pentare Timor c. Sholes New-Holland laid down too much Northward It s Soil and Dragon trees The poor Winking Inhabitants their Features Habit Food Arms c. The way of fetching Fire out of Wood. The Inhabitants on the Islands Their Habitations Unfitness for Labour c. The great Tides here They design for the Island Cocos and Cape Comorin THE third day of October 1687. we sailed from these Islands standing to the Southward intending to sail through among the Spice Islands We had fair weather and the wind at West We first steered S. S. W. and passed close by certain small Islands that lye just by the North end of the Island Luconia We left them all on the West of us and past on the East side of it and the rest of the Philippine Islands coasting to rhe Southward The N. East end of the Island Luconia appears to be good Champion Land of an indifferent heighth plain and even for many leagues only it has some pretty high Hills standing upright by themselves in these Plains but no ridges of Hills or chains of Mountains joyning one to another The Land on this side seems to be most Savannah or Pasture The S. E. part is more Mountainous and Woody Leaving the Island Luconia and with it our Golden projects we sailed on the Southward passing on the East side of the rest of the Philippine Islands These appear to be more Mountainous and less Woody till we came in sight of the Island St. John the first of that name I mentioned the other I spake of on the Coast of China This I have already described to be a very woody Island Here the Wind coming Southerly forced us to keep farther from the Islands The 14th day of October we came close by a small low Woody Island that lyeth East from the S. E. end of Mindanao distant from it about 20 leagues I do not find it set down in any Sea-Chart The 15th day we had the Wind at N. E. and we steered West for the Island Mindanao and arrived at the S. E. end again on the 16th day There we went in and anchored between two small Islands which lye in about 5 d. 10 m. N. Lat. I mentioned them when we first came on this Coast. Here we found a fine small Cove on the N. W. end of the Eastermost Island fit to Careen in or hale ashore so we went in there and presently unrigged our Ship and provided to hale our Ship ashore to clean her bottom These Islands are about 3 or 4 leagues from the Island Mindanao they are about 4 or 5 miles in circumference and of a pretty good heighth The mold is black and deep and there are two small Brooks of fresh Water They are both plentifully stored with great high Trees therefore our Carpenters were sent ashore to cut down some of them for our use for here they made a new Boltsprit
Winds blow on the Coast except in a strong North which turns the Trade-Wind back and on the Costarica and between it and the River Darien the Westerly Winds as they are more frequent and lasting than towards Cape La Vela so also they blow farther off at Sea as sometimes as far as to 20 or 30 Leagues from the Shore Therefore Ships bound to Windward if they have far to go either take the opportunity of the Westerly Wind-Season or else go through the Gulph of Florida and stretch away to the North till they get into a variable Winds way and then run to the Eastward as far as they think convenient before they stretch to the Southward again All that are bound from the West Indies to Guinea must take this course if they sail from Jamaica because they must pass thro' the Gulph of Florida but from other Islands they may stretch away directly to the North and use the same method But if Ships have only a small way to Sail to Wind-ward they make use of the Sea and Land Breezes making no account of the time of the Year The Winds on the Coast of Brazil are from September till March at E. N. E. and from March till September again they are at South The Winds in the Bay of Panama are from September till March Easterly and from March till September again they are at S. and S. S. W. From the Cape of good Hope Eastwards as far as the River Natal which lies in 30d South Latitude and Cape Corientes in Lat. of 24 degrees South the Winds from May to October are constantly from the West to the North West within 30 Leagues of the Shore They blow hardest at North West When the Wind comes to the North West it is commonly stormy and tempestous Weather attended with much Rain and then the Weather is cold and chilly From October till March the Winds are Easterly from the E. N. E. to the E. S. E. you have then very fair Weather The E. N. E. Winds are pretty fresh but the Winds at E. S. E. are small and faint sometimes affording some drops of Rain From Cape Corientes to the Red-Sea from October till the middle of January the Winds are variable but most times Northerly and oft shifting round the Compass The strongest Winds are at North these are often very violent and stormy and accompanied with much Rain and thus it blows about the Island of Madagascar and the adjacent Islands These storms are commonly preceded by a great Sea out of the North. From January till May the Winds are at N. E. or N. N. E. fine fresh gales and sair Weather From May till October the Winds are Southerly in July August and September there are great Calms in the Bay of Pate and Melende and a strong Current setting into the Bay Therefore Ships that have occasion to pass this way in those three Months ought to keep at least 100 Leagues from the Coast to avoid being driven by the Current into the Bay for these Calms do sometimes last 6 Weeks yet off at Sea at the distance of 100 Leagues the Winds are fresh at South At the entrance into the Red-Sea near Cape Guardefuer there are commonly very hard gales and turbulent Weather even when the Calms are so great in the Bay of Melende and not above 10 or 12 Leagues at Sea from the said Cape there is also very fair Weather and pretty fresh Gales In the Red-Sea from May till October the Winds are strong at S. W. and the Current setting out strong so that there is no entring into that Sea in those Months except you keep close to the South Shore there you have Land-Winds and an eddy Current In the Months of September or October the Wind shuffles about to the North and at last settles at N. E. then comes fair Weather on this Coast and so continues till the Monsoon shifts which is in April or May then it first takes one flurry at North and from thence veers to the East and so about to the South and there it settles The Account of this Coast from the Cape of good Hope hither I had from Capt. Rogers And as this hither-most part of the East Indies even from the Cape of good Hope to the Red-Sea which Coast lies nearest N. E. and S. W. hath its shifting Seasons so the other Parts of India from the Gulph of Persia to Cape Comorin has its constant Annual change and from Comorin clear round the Bay of Bengal the change is no less and even from thence through the Streights of Malacca and Eastwards as far as Japan the shifting Trade-Winds do alternately succeed each other as duly as the Year comes about It cannot be supposed that the Trade Wind in all these Places should be exactly on one Point of the Compass For I have already shown that these Trade-Winds on any Coast do commonly blow slanting in on the Shore about 2 or 3 Points therefore in Bays where the Land lies on several Rombs the Winds must alter accordingly Though that Rule does not hold altogether true in Bays that are deep but is chiefly meant for a pretty streight Coast which lyes near alike allowing for Points of Land and small Coves which make no alteration But on the sides and in the bottom of large Bays such as the Bay of Bengall the Bay of Siam c. the Wind differs much on one side of the Bay from what it does on the other and both sides differ from the constant Trade on the open Coast yet all shift in the shifting Seasons which are April and September at one and the same time to their opposite Points I mean on the open Coast for in some Bays there is a little alteration from that general Rule These shifting Winds in the East Indies are called Monsoons one is called the East Monsoon the other the West Monsoon The East Monsoon sets in about September and blows till April then ceaseth and the West Monsoon takes place and blows till Septerber again And both the East and West Monsoons blow in their Seasons slanting in on the Coast as is before described The East Monsoon brings fair Weather the West brings Tornadoes and Rain For as I said before in the first Chap. of the General Trade-Wind at Sea when the Sun comes to the North of the Line then all Places North of the Equator within the Tropicks are troubled with Clouds and Rain but when the Sun is in Southern Signs then the Sky is clear And as most of the Trading Countries in the East Indies especially those on the main Continent do lye between the Line and the Tropick of Cancer So these Countries are all subject to the Changes and Seasons already described But the Islands lying under the Line and to the South between the Line and the Tropick of Capricorn have contrary Seasons to these Yet do they change at the self-same time The difference between the Monsoons on the
down in Lat. 12 d. 16 m. It is about 20 leagues from the Main and 9 or 10 from Querisao and is accounted 16 or 17 leagues round The Road is on the S. W. side near the middle of the Island where there is a pretty deep Bay runs in Ships that come from the Eastward luff up close to the Eastern shore and let go their Anchor in 60 fathom water within half a Cables length of the shore But at the same time they must be ready with a Boat to carry a Hasar or Rope and make it fast ashore otherwise when the Land-wind comes in the night the Ship would drive off to Sea again for the ground is so steep that no Anchor can hold if once it starts About half a mile to the Westward of this Anchoring place there is a small low Island and a Channel between it and the main Island The Houses are about half a mile within Land right in the Road There is a Governour lives here a Deputy to the Governor of Querisao and 7 or 8 Soldiers with 5 or 6 Families of Indians There is no Fort and the Soldiers in peaceable times have little to do but to eat and sleep for they never watch but in time of War The Indians are Husband-men and plant Maiz and Guinea Corn and some Yames and Potatoes But their chiefest business is about Cattle for this Island is plentifully stocked with Goats and they send great quantities every year in Salt to Querisao There are some Horses and Bulls and Cows but I never saw any Sheep though I have been all over the Island The South side is plain low Land and there are several sorts of Trees but none very large There is a small Spring of water by the Houses which serves the Inhabitants though it is brackish At the West end of the Island there is a good Spring of Fresh water and 3 or 4 Indian Families live there but no Water nor Houses at any other place On the South side near the East-end is a good Salt-pond where Dutch Sloops come for Salt From Bon-Airy we went to the Isle of Aves or Birds so called from its great plenty of Birds as Men of War and Boobies but especially Boobies The Booby is a Water-fowl somewhat less than a Hen of a light greyish colour I observ'd the Boobies of this Island to be whiter than others This Bird hath a strong Bill longer and bigger than a Crows and broader at the end her Feet are flat like a Ducks Feet It is a very simple creature and will hardly go out of a mans way In other places they build their Nests on the ground but here they build on Trees which I never saw any where else tho I have seen of them in a great many places Their Flesh is black and eats Fishy but are often eaten by the Privateers Their numbers have been much lessen'd by the French Fleet which lay here till it was lost as I shall give an account The Man of War as it is called by the English is about the bigness of a Kite and in shape like it but black and the Neck is red It lives on Fish yet never lights on the Water but soars aloft like a Kite and when it sees its prey it flys down head foremost to the waters edge very swiftly takes his prey out of the Sea with his Bill and immediately mounts again as swiftly and never touching the Water but with his Bill His Wings are very long His Feet are like other Land-Fowl and he builds on Trees where he finds any but where they are wanting on the ground This Island Aves lies about 8 or 9 leagues to the Eastward of the Island Bon-airy about 14 or 15 leagues from the Main and about the lat of 11d 45m North. It is but small not above 4 mile in length and towards the East end not half a mile broad On the North side it is low Land commonly overflown with the Tide but on the Southside there is a great Rocky Bank of Coral thrown up by the Sea The West end is for near a mile space plain even Savanah Land without any Trees There are 2 or 3 Wells dug by Privateers who often frequent this Island because there is a good Harbor about the middle of it on the North side where they may conveniently careen The Riff or Bank of Rocks on which the French Fleet was lost as I mentioned above runs along from the East end to the Northward about 3 mile then tends away to the Westward making as it were a Half Moon This Riff breaks off all the Sea and there is good riding in even sandy ground to the Westward of it There are 2 or 3 small low sandy Keys or Islands within this Riff about 3 miles from the Main Island The Count de Estree lost his Fleet here in this manner Coming from the Eastward he fell in on the back of the Riff and fired Guns to give warning to the rest of his Fleet But they supposing their Admiral was engaged with Enemies hoised up their Topsails and crowded all the Sail they could make and ran full sail ashore after him all within half a mile of each other For his Light being in the Main Top was an unhappy Beacon for them to follow and there escaped but one Kings-ship and one Privateer The Ships continued whole all day and the Men had time enough most of them to get ashore yet many perished in the Wreck and many of those that got safe on the Island for want of being accustomed to such hardships died like rotten Sheep But the Privateers who had been used to such accidents lived merrily from whom I had this relation and they told me that if they had gone to Jamaica with 30 l. a Man in their Pockets they could not have enjoyed themselves more For they kept in a Gang by themselves and watched when the Ships broke to get the Goods that came from them and though much was staved against the Rocks yet abundance of Wine and Brandy floated over the Riff where these Privateers waited to take it up They lived here about 3 weeks waiting an opportunity to transport themselves back again to Hispaniola in all which time they were never without 2 or 3 Hogsheads of Wine and Brandy in their Tents and Barrels of Beef and Pork which they could live on without Bread well enough tho the new-comers out of France could not There were about 40 Frenchmen on board in one of the Ships where there was good store of Liquor till the after part of her broke away and floated over the Riff and was carry'd away to Sea with all the men drinking and singing who being in drink did not mind the danger but were never heard of afterwards In a short time after this great Shipwrack Captain Pain Commander of a Privateer of 6 Guns had a pleasant accident befel him at this Island He came hither to Careen intending to fit
by Portuguese Banditti This of Sall is an Island lying in the Lat. of 16 in Long 19 deg 33 min. West from the Lizard in England stretching from North to South about 8 or 9 leagues and not above a league and an half or 2 leagues wide It hath its name from the abundance of Salt that is naturally congealed there the whole Island being full of large Salt-ponds The Land is very barren producing no Tree that I could see but some small 〈◊〉 by Bushes by the Sea side Neither could I discern any Grass yet there are some poor Goats on it I know not whether there are any other Beasts on the Island There are some wild Fowl but I judge not many I saw a few Flamingo which is a sort of large Fowl much like a Heron in shape but bigger and of a reddish colour They delight to keep together in great companies and feed in Mud or Ponds or in such places where there is not much Water They are very shy therefore it is hard to shoot them Yet I have lain obscured in the evening near a place where they resort and with two more in my company have kill'd 14 of them at once the first shot being made while they were standing on the ground the other two as they rose They build their Nests in shallow Ponds where there is much Mud which they scrape together making little Hillocks like small Islands appearing out of the Water a foot and half high from the bottom They make the foundation of these Hillocks broad bringing them up tapering to the top where they leave a small hollow pit to lay their Eggs in and when they either lay their Eggs or hatch them they stand all the while not on the Hillock but close by it with their Legs on the ground and in the water resting themselves 〈◊〉 the Hillock and covering the hollow Nest upon it with their Rumps For their Legs are very long and building thus as they do upon the ground they could neither draw their Legs conveniently into their Nests not sit down upon them otherwise than by resting their whole bodies there to the prejudice of their Eggs or their young were it not for this admirable contrivance which they have by natural instinct They never lay more than two Eggs and seldom fewer The young ones cannot fly till they are almost full grown but will run prodigiously fast yet we have taken many of them The Flesh of both young and old is lean and black yet very good meat tasting neither fishy nor any way unsavory Their Tongues are large having a large knob of fat at the root which is an excellent bit a Dish of Flamingo's Tongues being sit for a Prince's Table When many of them are standing together by a Ponds side being half a mile distant from a Man they appear to him like a Brick Wall their Feathers being of the colour of new red Brick and they commonly stand upright and single one by one exactly in a row except when feeding and close by each other The young ones at first are of a light grey and as their Wing-feathers spring out they grow darker and never come to their right colour or any beautiful shape under 10 or 11 months old I have seen Flamingoes at Rio la Hacha and at an Island lying near the Main of America right against Querisao called by Privateers Flamingo-Key from the multitude of these Fowls that breed there and I never saw of their Nests and young but there There were not above 5 or 6 men on this Island of Sall and a poor Governor as they call'd him who came aboard in our Boat and brought 3 or 4 poor lean Goats for a Present to our Captain telling him they were the best that the Island did afford The Captain minding more the poverty of the Giver than the value of the Present gave him in requital a Coat to cloath him for he had nothing but a few Rags on his back and an old Hat not worth 3 Farthings which yet I believe he wore but seldom for fear he should want before he might get another for he told us there had not been a Ship in 3 years before We bought of him about 20 Bushels of Salt for a few old Cloaths and he begg'd a little Powder and Shot We stay'd here 3 days in which time one of these Portuguese offered to some of our men a lump of Ambergriese in exchange for some Cloaths desiring them to keep it secret for he said if the Governour should know it he should be hanged At length one Mr. Coppinger bought it for a small matter yet I believe he gave more than it was worth We had not a Man in the Ship that knew Ambergriese but I have since seen it in other places and therefore am certain it was not right It was of a dark colour like Sheeps Dung and very soft but of no smell and possibly 't was some of their Goats Dung I afterwards saw some sold at the Necquebars in the East Indies which was of a lighter colour but very hard neither had it any smell and this also I suppose was a Cheat. Yet it is certain that in both these places there is Ambergriese found I was told by one John Reed a Bristol Man that he was Prentice to a Master who traded to these Islands of Cape Verd and once as he was riding at an Anchor at Fogo another of these Islands there was a lump of it swam by the Ship and the Boat being ashore he mist it but knew it to be Ambergriese having taken up a lump swimming in the like manner the Voyage before and his Master having at several times bought pieces of it of the Natives of the Isle of Fogo so as to enrich himself thereby And so at the Necquebars Englishmen have bought as I have been credibly informed great quantities of very good Ambergriese Yet the Inhabitants are so subtle that they will counterfeit it both there and here and I have heard that in the Gulf of Florida whence much of it comes the Native Indians there use the same Fraud Upon this occasion I cannot omit to tell my Reader what I learnt from Mr. Hill a Chyrurgeon upon his shewing me once a piece of Ambergriese which was thus One Mr. Benjamin Barker a man that I have been long well acquainted with and know him to be a very diligent and observing person and likewise very sober and credible told this Mr. Hill that being in the Bay of Honduras to procure Logwood which grows there in great abundance and passing in a Canoa over to one of the Islands in that Bay he found upon the shore on a sandy Bay there a lump of Ambergriese so large that when carried to Jamaica he found it to weigh one hundred pound and upwards When he first found it it lay dry above the mark which the Sea then came to at High-water and he observed in it a great multitude of
Island and ordered 4 men to be continually there to watch night and day and if they saw any Ship coming thither they were to give notice of it They said they did not expect to see Boats or Canoas but lookt out for a Ship At first they took us in our advanced Canoa to be some men that had been cast away and lost our Ship till seeing 3 or 4 Canoas more they began to suspect what we were They told us likewise that the Horseman which we saw did come to them every morning and that in less than an hours time he could be at the Town When Captain Eaton and his Canoas came ashore we told them what had hapned It was now 3 hours since the Horseman rode away and we could not expect to get to the Town in less than two hours in which time the Governor having notice of our coming might be provided to receive us at his Breast-works therefore we thought it best to defer this design till another time There is a fine Spring of fresh water on the Island there are some Trees also but the biggest part is Savannah whereon is good grass though there is no sort of Beast to eat it This Island is in lat 12 d. 10 m. North. Here we stay'd till 4 a clock in the afternoon then our Ships being come within a league of the shore we all went on board and steer'd for the Gulf of Amapalla intending there to careen our Ships The 26th of July Captain Eaton came aboard our Ship to consult with Captain Davis how to get some Indians to assist us in careening it was concluded that when we came near the Gulf Captain Davis should take two Canoas well mann'd and go before and Captain Eaton should stay aboard According to this agreement Captain Davis went away for the Gulf the next day The Gulf of Amapalla is a great Arm of the Sea running 8 or 10 leagues into the Country It is bounded on the South side of its Entrance with Point Casivina and on the N. W. side with St. Michaels Mount Both these places are very remarkable Point Casivina is in lat 12 d. 40 m. North it is a high round Point which at Sea appears like an Island because the Land within it is very low St. Michaels Mount is a very high peeked Hill not very steep the Land at the foot of it on the S. E. side is low and even for at least a mile From this low Land the Gulf of Amapalla enters on that side Between this low Land and Point Casivina there are two considerable high Islands the Southermost is called Mangera the other is called Amapalla and they are two miles asunder Mangera is a high round Island about 2 leagues in compass appearing like a tall Grove It is invironed with Rocks all round only a small Cove or Sandy Bay on the N. E. side The Mold and Soil of this Island is black but not deep it is mixt with Stones yet very productive of large tall Timber Trees In the middle of the Island there is an Indian Town and a fair Spanish Church The Indians have Plantations of Maiz round the Town and some Plantains They have a few Cocks and Hens but no other sort of tame Fowl neither have they any sort of Beast but Cats and Dogs There is a path from the Town to the Sandy Bay but the way is steep and rocky At this sandy Bay there are always 10 or 12 Canoas lye haled updry except when they are in use Amapalla is a larger Island than Mangera the Soil much the same There are two Towns on it about two miles asunder one on the North side the other on the East side That on the East side is not above a mile from the Sea it stands on a Plain on the top of an Hill the path to it so steep and rocky that a few men might keep down a great number only with Stones There is a very fair Church standing in the midst of the Town The other Town is not so big yet it has a good handsom Church One thing I have observed in all the Indian Towns under the Spanish Government as well in these parts as in the Bay of Campeachy and elsewhere that the Images of the Virgin Mary and other Saints with which all their Churches were filled are still painted in an Indian Complexion and partly in that dress but in those Towns which are inhabited chiefly by Spaniards the Saints also conform themselves to the Spanish garb and complexion The Houses here are but mean the Indians of both Plains have good Field Maiz remote from the Town They have but few Plantains but they have abundance of large Hog-plumb Trees growing about their Houses The Tree that bears this Fruit is as big as our largest Plumb-tree The Leaf is of a dark green colour and as broad as the Leaf of a Plumb-tree but they are shaped like the Haw-thorn Leaf The Trees are very brittle Wood the Fruit is oval and as big as a small Horse Plumb It is at first very green but when it is ripe one side is yellow the other red It hath a great Stone and but little substance about it the Fruit is pleasant enough but I do not remember that ever I saw one throughly ripe that had not a Maggot or two in it I do not remember that I did ever see any of this Fruit in the South Seas but at this place In the Bay of Campeachy they are very plentiful and in Jamaica they plant them to fence their ground These Indians have also some Fowls as those at Mangera no Spaniards dwell among them but only one Padre or Priest who serves for all three Towns these two at Amapalla and that at Mangera They are under the Governor of the Town of St. Michaels at the foot of St. Michaels Mount to whom they pay their Tribute in Maize being extreamly poor yet very contented They have nothing to make Money of but their Plantations of Maiz and their Fowls the Padre or Frier hath his tenths of it and knows to a peck how much every man hath and how many Fowls of which they dare not kill one though they are sick without leave from him There was as I said never another white man on these Islands but the Frier He could speak the Indian Language as all Friers must that live among them In this vast Country of America there are divers Nations of Indians different in their Language therefore those Friers that are minded to live among any Nation of the Indians must learn the Language of those people they propose to teach Although these here are but poor yet the Indians in many other places have great riches which the Spaniards draw from them for trifles In such places the Friers get plentiful incomes as particularly in the Bay of Champeachy where the Indians have large Cacao-walks or in other places where they plant Cocho-neel Trees or Silvester Trees
was so named by the Spaniards after Sir Francis Drake took the Caoafoga a Ship chiefly laden with Plate which they say he brought hither and divided it here with his Men. It is about 4 mile long and a mile and half broad and of a good heighth It is bounded with high steep Cliffs clear round only at one place on the East side The top of it is flat and even the Soil sandy and dry the Trees it produceth are but small bodied low and grow thin and there are only 3 or 4 sorts of Trees all unknown to us I observed they were much overgrown with long Moss There is good Grass especially in the beginning of the year There is no Water on this Island but at one place on the East side close by the Sea there it drills slowly down from the Rocks where it may be received into Vessels There was plenty of Goats but they are now all destroyed There is no other sort of Land Animal that I did ever see here are plenty of Boobies and Men of War Birds The anchoring place is on the East side near the middle of the Island close by the shore within two Cables lengths of the sandy Bay there is about 18 or 20 fathom good fast oazy ground and smooth Water for the S. E. point of the Island shelters from the South Winds which constantly blow here From the S. E. point there strikes out a small shole a quarter of a mile into the Sea where there is commonly a great Riplin or working of short Waves during all the Flood The Tide runs pretty strong the Flood to the South and the Ebb to the North. There is good landing on the Sandy Bay against the anchoring place from whence you may go up into the Island and at no place besides There are 2 or 3 high steep small Rocks at the S. E. point not a Cables length from the Island and another much bigger at the N. E. end it is deep Water all round but at the anchoring place and at the shole at the S. E point This Island lieth in lat 01d 10 m. South It is distant from Cape St. Lorenzo 4 or 5 leagues bearing from it W. S. W. and half a point westerly At this Island are plenty of those small Sea Turtle spoken of in my last Chapter The 21st day Captain Eaton came to an anchor by us he was very willing to have consorted with us again but Captain Davis's Men were so unreasonable that they would not allow Captain Eaton's Men an equal share with them in what they got therefore Captain Eaton staid here but one night and the next day sailed from hence steering away to the Southward We staid no longer than the day ensuing and then we sailed toward Point St. Hellena intending there to land some Men purposely to get Prisoners for intelligence Point Santa Hellena bears South from the Island Plata It lies in lat 2d 15 m. South The Point is pretty high flat and even at top overgrown with many great Thistles but no sort of Tree at a distance it appears like an Island because the Land within it is very low This Point strikes out West into the Sea making a pretty large Bay on the North side A mile within the Point on the Sandy Bay close by the Sea there is a poor small Indian Village called Sancta Hellena the Land about it is low sandy and barren there are no Trees nor Grass growing near it neither do the Indians produce any Fruit Grain or Plant but Water-Melons only which are large and very sweet There is no fresh Water at this place nor near it therefore the Inhabitants are obliged to fetch all their Water from the River Colanche which is in the bottom of the Bay about 4 leagues from it Not far from this Town on the Bay close by the Sea about 5 paces from high-water mark there is a sort of bitumenous matter boils out of a little hole in the earth It is like thin Tar the Spaniards call it Algatrane By much boiling it becomes hard like Pitch It is frequently used by the Spaniards instead of Pitch and the Indians that inhabit here save it in Jars It boils up most at high water and. then the Indians are ready to receive it These Indians are Fishermen and go out to Sea on Bark-logs Their chief subsistence is Maiz most of which they get from Ships that come hither for Algatrane There is good anchoring to leeward of the Point right against the Village but on the West side of the Point it is deep Water and no anchoring The Spaniards do report that there was once a very rich Ship driven ashore here in calm for want of Wind to work her Assoon as ever she struck she heel'd off to Sea and fill'd with Water presently and then slid off to 7 or 8 fathom Water where she lies to this day none having attempted to fish for her because she lies deep and there falls in here a great high Sea When we were abreast of this Point we sent away our Canoas in the night to take the Indian Village They landed in the morning betimes close by the Town and took some Prisoners They took likewise a small Bark which the Indians had set on fire but our Men quenched it and took the Indian that did it who being asked wherefore he set the Bark on fire said That there was an Order from the Vice-Roy lately set out commanding all Sea-men to burn their Vessels if attacked by us and betake themselves to their Boats There was another Bark in a small Cove a mile from the Village thither our men went thinking to take her but the Sea-men that were aboard set her in flames and fled In the evening our men came aboard and brought the small Bark with them the fire of which they had quenched and then we returned again towards Plata where we arriv'd the 26th day of September In the evening we sent out some men in our Bark lately taken and Canoas to an Indian Village called Manta 2 or 3 leagues to the Westward of Cape St. Lorenzo hoping there to get other Prisoners for we could not learn from those we took at Point St. Hellena the reason why the Vice-Roy should give such orders to burn the Ships They had a fresh Sea-breeze till 12 a clock at night and then it proved Calm wherefore they rowed away with their Canoas as near to the Town as they thought convenient and lay still till day Manta is a small Indian Village on the Main distant from the Island Plata 7 or 8 leagues It slands so advantageously to be seen being built on a small ascent that it makes a very fair prospect to the Sea yet but a few poor scattering Indian houses There is a very fine Church adorned with a great deal of Carved work It was formerly a habitation of Spaniards but they are all removed from hence now The Land about it is dry and
from all parts But Panama as it is not overcharg d with men so unreasonably as the other tho very full so it enjoys a good air lying open to the Sea wind which riseth commonly about 10 or 11 a clock in the morning and continues till 8 or 9 a clock at night then the Land wind comes and blows till 8 or 9 in the morning There are no Woods nor Marshes near Panama but a brave dry Champain land not subject to fogs nor mists The wet season begins in the latter end of May and continues till November At that time the Sea breezes are at S. S. W. and the Land winds at N. At the dry season the winds are most betwixt the E. N. E. and the North Yet off in the Bay they are commonly at South but of this I shall be more particular in my Chapter of Winds in the Appendix The rains are not so excessive about Panama it self as on either side of the Bay yet in the months of June July and August they are severe enough Gentlemen that come from Peru to Panama especially in these months cut their hair close to preserve them from Fevers for the place is sickly to them because they come out of a Country which never hath any Rains or Fogs but enjoys a constant serenity but I am apt to believe this City is healthy enough to any other people Thus much for Panama The 20th day we went and anchored within a league of the Islands Perico which are only 3 little barren rocky Islands in expectation of the President of Panama s Answer to the Letter I said we sent him by Don Diego treating about exchange of Prisoners this being the day on which he had given us his Parole to return with an Answer The 21st day we took another Baâ—…k laden with Hogs Fowl Salt Beef and Molossoes she came from Lavelia and was going to Panama In the afternoon we sent another Letter ashore by a young Mostiso a mixt brood of Indians and Europeans directed to the President and 3 or 4 Copies of it to be dispersed abroad among the common People This Letter which was full of Threats together with the young Man's managing the business wrought so powerfully among the common People that the City was in an uproar The President immediately sent a Gentleman aboard who demanded the Flower Prize that we took off of Gallo and all the Prisoners for the Ransom of our two Men but our Captains told him they would exchange Man for Man The Gentleman said he had not orders for that but if we would stay till the next day he would bring the Governours answer The next day he brought aboard our two Men and had about 40 Prisoners in exchange The 24th day we run over to the Island Tabago Tabago is in the Bay and about 6 leagues South of Panama It is about 3 mile long and 2 broad a high mountainous Island On the North side it declines with a gentle descent to the Sea The Land by the Sea is of a black Mold and deep but toward the top of the Mountain it is strong and dry The North side of this Island makes a very pleasant shew it seems to be a Garden of Fruit inclosed with many high Trees the chiefest Fruits are Plantains and Bonana's They thrive very well from the foot to the middle of it but those near the top are but small as wanting moisture Close by the Sea there are many Coco Nut Trees which make a very pleasant sight Within the Coco Nut Trees there grow many Mammet Trees The Mammet is a large tall and streight-bodied Tree clean without Knots or Limbs for 60 or 70 foot or more The Head spreads abroad into many small Limbs which grow pretty thick and close together The Bark is of a dark grey colour thick and rough full of large chops The Fruit is bigger than Quince it is round and covered with a thick Rind of a grey colour When the Fruit is ripe the Rind is yellow and tough and it will then peel off like Leather but before it is ripe it is brittle the Juice is then white and clammy but when ripe not so The ripe Fruit under the Rind is yellow as a Carret and in the middle are two large rough Stones flat and each of them much bigger than an Almond The Fruit smells very well and the taste is answerable to the smell The S. W. end of the Island hath never been cleared but is full of Fire-wood and Trees of divers sorts There is a very fine small Brook of fresh Water that springs out of the side of the Mountain and gliding through the Grove of Fruit-trees falls into the Sea on the North side There was a small Town standing by the Sea with a Church at one end but now the biggest part of it is destroyed by the Privateers There is good anchoring right against the Town about a mile from the shore where you may have 16 or 18 fathom Water soft oazy ground There is a small Island close by the N. W. end of this called Tabogilla which is a small Channel to pass between There is another woody Island about a mile on the N. E. side of Tabago and a good Channel between them this Island hath no Name that ever I heard While we lay at Tabago we had like to have had a scurvy trick plaid us by a pretended Merchant from Panama who came as by stealth to traffick with us privately a thing common enough with the Spanish Merchants both in the North and South Seas notwithstanding the severe Prohibitions of the Governours who yet sometimes connive at it and will even trade with the Privateers themselves Our Merchant was by agreement to bring out his Bark laden with Goods in the night and we to go and anchor at the South of Perico Out he came with a Fireship instead of a Bark and approached very near haling us with the Watch word we had agreed upon We suspecting the worst call d to them to come to an anchor and upon their not doing so fired at them when immediately their Men going out into the Canoas set fire to their Ship which blew up and burnt close by us so that we were forced to cut our Cables in all haste and scamper away as well as we could The Spaniard was not altogether so politick in appointing to meet us at Perico for there we had Sea-room whereas had he come thus upon us at Tabago the Land-wind bearing hard upon us as it did we must either have been burnt by the Fireship or upon loosing our Cables have been driven ashore But I suppose they chose Perico rather for the Scene of their Enterprize partly because they might there best sculk among the Islands and partly because if their Exploit fail d they could thence escape best from our Canoas to Panama but 2 leagues off During this Exploit Captain Swan whose Ship was less than ours and so not so much
we intended to sail towards the Gulf of St. Michael to seek Captain Townley who by this time we thought might be entring into these Seas Accordingly the second day of March 1685. we sail'd from hence towards the Gulf of St. Michael This Gulf lyes near 30 leagues from Panama toward the S. E. The way thither from Panama is to pass between the Kings Islands and the Main It is a place where many great Rivers having finished their courses are swallowed up in the Sea It is bounded on the S. with Point Garachina which lyeth in North lat 6d 40 m. and on the North side with Cape St. Lorenzo Where by the way I must correct a gross error in our common Maps which giving no name at all to the South Cape which yet is the most considerable and is the true Point Garachina do give that name to the North Cape which is of small remark only for those whose business is into the Gulf and the name St. Lorenzo which is the true name of this Northern Point is by them wholly omitted the name of the other Point being substituted into its place The chief Rivers which run into this Gulf of St. Michael are Santa Maria Sambo and Congos The River Congos which is the River I would have perswaded our men to have gone up as their nearest way in our Journey over Land mentioned Chap. 1. comes directly out of the Country and swallows up many small Streams that fall into it from both sides and at last loseth itself on the North side of the Gulf a league within Cape St. Lorenzo It is not very wide but deep and navigable some leagues within land There are Sands without it but a Channel for Ships 'T is not made use of by the Spaniards because of the neighbourhood of Santa Maria River where they have most business on account of the Mines The River of Sambo seems to be a great River for there is a great tyde at its mouth but I can say nothing more of it having never been in it This River falls into the Sea on the South side of the Gulf near Point Garachina Beyond the mouth of these 2 Rivers on either side the Gulf runs in towards the Land somewhat narrower and makes 5 or 6 small Islands which are cloathed with great Trees green and flourishing all the year and good Channels between the Islands Beyond which further in still the shore on each side closes so near with 2 Points of low Mangrove Land as to make a narrow or streight scarce half a mile wide This serves as a mouth or entrance to the inner part of the Gulf which is a deep Bay 2 or 3 leagues over every way and about the East end thereof are the mouths of several Rivers the chief of which is that of Santa Maria. There are many outlets or Creeks besides this narrow place I have described but none navigable beside that For this reason the Spanish Guard-Ship mention'd in Chap. 1. chose to lye between these two Points as the only passage they could imagine we should attempt since this is the way that the Privateers have generally taken as the nearest between the North and South Seas The River of Santa Maria is the largest of all the Rivers of this Gulf It is navigable 8 or 9 leagues up for so high the tyde flows Beyond that place the River is divided into many Branches which are only fit for Canoas The tyde rises and falls in this River about 18 foot About 6 leagues from the Rivers mouth on the South side of it the Spaniards about 20 years ago upon their first discovery of the Gold Mines here built the Town Santa Maria of the same name with the River This Town was taken by Captain Coxon Captain Harris and Captain Sharp at their entrance into these Seas it being then but newly built Since that time it is grown considerable for when Captain Harris the Nephew of the former took it as is said in Chap. 6. he found in it all sorts of Tradesmen with a great deal of Flower and Wine and abundance of Iron Crows and Pickaxes These were Instruments for the Slaves to work in the Gold Mines for besides what Gold and Sand they take up together they often find great lumps wedg d between the Rocks as if it naturally grew there I have seen a lump as big as a Hens Egg brought by Captain Harris from thence who took 120 pound there and he told me that there were lumps a great deal bigger but these they were forc'd to beat in pieces that they might divide them These lumps are not so solid but that they have crevises and pores full of Earth and Dust. This Town is not far from the Mines where the Spaniards keep a great many Slaves to work in the dry time of the year but in the rainy season when the Rivers do overflow they cannot work so well Yet the Mines are so nigh the mountains that as the Rivers soon rise so they are soon down again and presently after the rain is the best searching for Gold in the Sands for the violent rains do wash down the Gold into the Rivers where much of it settles to the bottom and remains Then the Native Indians who live hereabouts get most and of them the Spaniards buy more Gold than their Slaves get by working I have been told that they get the value of 5 Shillings a day one with another The Spaniards withdraw most of them with their Slaves during the wet season to Panama At this Town of St. Maria Captain Townley was lying with his Party making Canoas when Captain Gronet came into the Seas for it was then abandoned by the Spaniards There is another small new Town at the mouth of the River called the Scuchaderoes It stands on the North side of the open place at the mouth of the River of St. Maria where there is more air than at the Mines or at Santa Maria Town where they are in a manner stifled with heat for want of air All about these Rivers especially near the Sea the Land is low it is deep black Earth and the Trees it produceth are extraordinary large and high Thus much concerning the Gulf of St. Michael whit'er we were bound The second day of March as is said before we weighed from Perico and the same night we anchored again at Pacheque The third day we sailed from thence steering towards the Gulf. Captain Swan undertook to fetch off Captain Townly and his Men therefore he kept near the Main but the rest of the Ships stood nearer the Kings Islands Captain Swan desired this office because he intended to send Letters over-over-land by the Indians to Jamaica which he did ordering the Indians to deliver his Letters to any English Vessel in the other Seas At 2 a clock we were again near the place where we clean'd our Ships There we saw two Ships coming out who proâ—…d to be Captain Townly and
to the Island Otoque This is another inhabited Island in the Bay of Panama not so big as Tabago yet there are good Plantain Walks on it and some Negroes to look after them These Negroes rear Fowls and Hogs for their Masters who live at Panama as at the Kings Islands It was for some Fowls or Hogs that our Men went thither but by accident they met also with an Express that was sent to Panama with an account that the Lima Fleet was at Sea Most of the Letters were thrown over board and lost yet we found some that said positively that the Fleet was coming with all the strength that they could make in the Kingdom of Peru yet were ordered not to fight us except they were forced to it though afterwards they chose to fight us having first landed their Treasure at Lavelia and that the Pilots of Lima had been in consultation what course to steer to miss us For the satisfaction of those who may be curious to know I have here inserted the Resolutions taken by the Commitee of Pilots as one of our company translated them out of the Spanish of two of the Letters we took The first Letter as follows SIR HAving been with his Excellency and heard the Letter of Captain Michael Sanches de Tena read wherein he says there should be a meeting of the Pilots of Panama in the said City they say t is not time putting for objection the Gallapagoes to which I answered that it was fear of the Enemy and that they might well go that way I told this to his Excellency who was pleased to command me to write the Course which is as follows The day for sailing being come go forth to the West South West from that to West till you are forty leagues off at Sea then keep at the same distance to the N. W. till you come under the Line from whence the Pilot must shape his Course for Moro de Porco and for the Coast of Lavelia and Natta where you may speak with the people and according to the information they give you may keep the same Course for Otoque from thence to Tabago and so to Panama this is what offers as to the Course The Letter is obscure but the Reader must make what he can of it The Directions in the other Letter were to this Effect THE surest Course to be observed going forth from Malabrigo is thus you must sail W. by S. that you may avoid the sight of the Islands of Lobos and if you should chance to see them by reason of the Breezes and should fall to Leeward of the Lat. of Malabrigo keep on a Wind as near as you can and if necessary go about and stand in for the shore then tack and stand off and be sure keep your Latitude and when you are 40 leagues to the Westward of the Islands Lobos keep that distance till you come under the Line and then if the general Wind follows you farther you must sail N. N. E. till you come into 3 degrees North. And if in this Lat. you should find the breezes make it your business to keep the Coast and so sail for Panama If in your course you should come in sight of the Land before you are abrest of Cape St. Francisco be sure to stretch off again out of sight of Land that you may not be discovered by the Enemy The last Letter supposes the Fleet 's setting out from Malabrigo in about 8 deg South Lat. as the other doth its going immediately from Lima 4 deg further South and from hence is that caution given of avoiding Lobos as near Malabrigo in their usual way to Panama and hardly to be kept out of sight as the Winds are thereabouts yet to be avoided by the Spanish Fleet at this time because as they had twice before heard of the Privateers lying at Lobos de la Mar they knew not but at that time we might be there in expectation of them The 10th day we sailed from Tabago towards the Kings Islands again because our Pilots told us that the Kings Ships did always come this way The 11th day we anchored at the place where we careen'd Here we found Captain Harris who had gone a second time into the River of Santa Maria and fetched the body of Men that last came over land as the Indians had informed us but they fell short of the number they told us of The 19th day we sent 250 Men in 15 Canoas to the River Cheapo to take the Town of Cheapo The 21st day all our Ships but Captain Harris who staid to clean his Ship followed after The 22d day we arrived at the Island Chepelio Chepelio is the pleasantest Island in the Bay of Panama It is but 7 leagues from the City of Panama and a league from the Main This Island is about 2 mile long and almost so broad it is low on the North side and riseth by a small ascent towards the South side The Soil is yellow a kind of clay The high side is stony the low Land is planted with all sorts of delicate Fruits viz. Sapadilloes Avogato-pears Mammees Mammee-Sappota's Star-apples c. The middle of the Island is planted with Plantain Trees which are not very large but the Fruit extraordinary sweet The Sapadillo Tree is as big as a large Pear-tree The Fruit much like a Bergamo-pear both in colour shape and size but on some Trees the Fruit is a little longer When it is green or first gathered the juice is white and clammy and it will stick like glew then the Fruit is hard but after it hath been gathered 2 or 3 days it grows soft and juicy and then the juice is clear as Spring-water and very sweet In the midst of the Fruit are 2 or 3 black stones or seeds about the bigness of the Pumkin seed This is an excellent Fruit. The Avogato Pear-tree is as big as most Pear-trees and is commonly pretty high the skin or bark black and pretty smooth the leaves large of an oval shape and the Fruit as big as a large Lemon It is of a green colour till it is ripe and then it is a little yellowish They are seldom fit to eat till they have been gathered 2 or 3 days then they become soft and the skin or rind will peel off The substance in the inside is green or a little yellowish and as soft as Butter Within the substance there is a stone as big as a Horse-plumb This Fruit hath no taste of its self and therefore 't is usually mixt with Sugar and Lime-juice and beaten together in a Plate and this is an excellent dish The ordinary way is to eat it with a little Salt and a rosted Plantain and thus a man that 's hungry may make a good meal of it It is very wholsome eaten any way It is reported that this Fruit provokes to lust and therefore is said to be much esteemed by the Spaniards and I do believe they are
aboard Captain Davis his Ship Captain Swan also sprung his Maintop Mast and got up another but while he was doing it and we were making the best of our way we lost sight of him and were now on the North side of the Bay for this way all Ships must pass from Panama whether bound towards the Coast of Mexico or Peru. The 10th day we passed by Moro de Porcos or the Mountain of Hogs Why so called I know not it is a high round Hill on the Coast of Lavelia This side of the Bay of Panama runs out westerly to the Islands of Quibo there are on this Coast many Rivers and Creeks but none so large as those on the South side of the Bay It is a Coast that is partly mountainous partly low land and very thick of Woods bordering on the Sea but a few leagues within land it consists mostly of Savannahs which are stock'd with Bulls and Cows The Rivers on this side are not wholly destitute of Gold though not so rich as the Rivers on the other side of the Bay The Coast is but thinly inhabited for except the Rivers that lead up to the Towns of Nata and Lavelia I know of no other Settlement between Panama and Puebla Nova The Spaniards may travel by land from Panama through all the Kingdom of Mexico as being full of Savannahs but towards the Coast of Peru they cannot pass further than the River Cheapo the Land there being so full of thick Woods and watered with so many great Rivers besides less Rivers and Creeks that the Indians themselves who inhabit there cannot travel far without much trouble We met with very wet weather in our Voyage to Quibo and with S. S. W. and sometimes S. W. Winds which retarded our course It was the 15th day of June when we arrived at Quibo and found there Captain Harris whom we sought The Island Quibo or Cabaya is in lat 7d 14m North of the Equator It is about 6 or 7 leagues long and 3 or 4 broad The Land is low except only near the N. E. end It is all over plentifully stored with great tall flourishing Trees of many sorts and there is good water on the East and North East sides of the Island Here are some Deer and plenty of pretty large black Monkies whose Flesh is sweet and wholsome besides a few Guanoes and some Snakes I know no other sort of Land Animal on the Island There is a shole runs out from the S. E. point of the Island half a mile into the Sea and a league to the North of this shole point on the East side there is a Rock about a mile from the shore which at the last quarter ebb appears above Water Besides these two places there is no danger on this side but Ships may run within a quarter of a mile of the shore and anchor in 6 8 10 or 12 fathom good clean Sand and Oaze There are many other Islands lying some on the S. W. side others on the N. and N. E. sides of this Island as the Island Quicaro which is a pretty large Island S. W. of Quibo and on the North of it is a small Island called the Ranoheria on which Island are plenty of Palma-Maria Trees The Palma-Maria is a tall straight-bodied Tree with a small Head but very unlike the Palm-tree notwithstanding the Name It is greatly esteemed for making Masts being very tough as well as of a good length for the grain of the Wood runs not straight along it but twisting gradually about it These Trees grow in many places of the West Indies and are frequently used both by the English and Spaniards there for that use The Islands Canales and Cantarras are small Islands lying on the N. E. of Rancheria These have all Channels to pass between and good anchoring about them and they are as well stored with Trees and Water as Quibo Sailing without them all they appear to be part of the Main The Island Quibo is the largest and most noted for although the rest have Names yet they are seldom used only for distinction sake these and the rest of this knot passing all under the common name of the Keys of Quibo Captain Swan gave to several of these Islands the Names of those English Merchants and Gentlemen who were Owners of his Ship June 16th Captain Swan came to an anchor by us and then our Captains consulted about new methods to advance their fortunes and because they were now out of hopes to get any thing at Sea they resolved to try what the Land would afford They demanded of our Pilots what Towns on the Coast of Mexico they could carry us to The City of Leon being the chiefest in the Country any thing near us though a pretty way within Land was pitcht on But now we wanted Canoas to land our Men and we had no other way but to cut down Trees and make as many as we had occasion for these Islands affording plenty of large Trees fit for our purpose While this was doing we sent 150 Men to take Puebla Nova a Town upon the Main near the innermost of these Islands to get Provision It was in going to take this Town that Captain Sawkins was killed in the year 1680 who was succeeded by Sharp Our Men took the Town with much ease although there was more strength of Men than when Captain Sawkins was kill'd They returned again the 24th day but got no Provision there They took an empty Bark in their way and brought her to us The 5th day of July Captain Knight mentioned in my last Chapter came to us He had been cruising a great way to the Westward but got nothing beside a good Ship At last he went to the South-ward as high as the Bay of Guiaquil where he took a Bark-log or pair of Bark-logs as we call it laden chiefly with Flower She had other Goods as Wine Oyl Brandy Sugar Soap and Leather of Goats-skins and he took out as much of each as he had occasion for and then turned her away again The Master of the Float told him that the Kings Ships were gone from Lima towards Panama that they carried but half the Kings Treasure with them for fear of us although they had all the strength that the Kingdom could afford that all the Merchant Ships which should have gone with them were laden and lying at Payta where they were to wait for further orders Captain Knight having but few Men did not dare to go to Payta where if he had been better provided he might have taken them all but he made the best of his way into the Bay of Panama in hopes to find us there inriched with the Spoils of the Lima Fleet but coming to the Kings Islands he had advice by a Prisoner that we had ingaged with their Fleet but were worsted and since that made our way to the Westward and therefore he came hither to seek us He presently
consorted with us and set his Men to work to make Canoas Every Ships company made for themselves but we all helped each other to launch them for some were made a mile from the Sea The manner of making a Canoa is after cutting down a large long Tree and squaring the upper-most side and then turning it upon the flat side to shape the opposite side for the bottom Then again they turn her and dig the inside boring also three holes in the bottom one before one in the middle and one aloft thereby to gage the thickest of the bottom for otherwise we might cut the bottom thinner than is convenient We left the bottoms commonly about 3 inches thick and the sides 2 inches thick below and one and an half at the top One or both of the ends we sharpen to a point Captain Davis made two very large Canoas one was 36 foot long and 5 or 6 feet wide the other 32 foot long and near as wide as the other In a months time we finished our business and were ready to sail Here Captain Harris went to lay his Ship aground to clean her but she being old and rotten fell in pieces and therefore he and all his Men went aboard of Captain Davis and Captain Swan While we lay here we struck Turtle every day for they were now very plentiful but from August to March here are not many The 18th day of July John Rose a Frenchman and 14 Men more belonging to Captain Gronet having made a new Canoa came in her to Captain Davis and desired to serve under him and Captain Davis accepted of them because they had a Canoa of their own The 20th day of July we sailed from Quibo bending our course for Ria Lexa which is the Port for Leon the City that we now designed to attempt We were now 640 men in 8 sail of Ships Commanded by Captain Davis Captain Swan Captain Townly and Captain Knight with a Fireship and 3 Tenders which last had not a constant crew We past out between the River Quibo and the Rancheria leaving Quibo and Quicaro on our Larboard side and the Rancheria with the rest of the Islands and the Main on our Starboard side The Wind at first was at South South West We coasted along shore passing by the Gulf of Nicoya the Gulf of Dulce and by the Island Caneo All this Coast is low Land overgrown with thick Woods and there are but few inhabitants near the shore As we sailed to the Westward we had variable winds sometimes S. W. and at W. S. W. and sometimes at E. N. E. but we had them most commonly at S. W. we had a Tornado or two every day and in the evening or in the night we had land winds at N. N. E. The 8th day of August being in the lat of 11 d. 20 m. by observation we saw a high Hill in the Country towring up like a Sugar-loaf which bore N. E. by N. We supposed it to be Volcan Vejo by the smoak which ascended from its top therefore we steered in North and made it plainer and then knew it to be that Volcan which is the Sea-mark for the harbour for Ria Lexo for as I said before in Chapter the 5th it is a very remarkable Mountain When we had brought this Mountain to bear N. E. we got out all our Canoas and provided to embark into them the next day The 9th day in the morning being about 8 leagues from the shore we left our Ships under the charge of a few men and 520 of us went away in 31 Canoas rowing towards the Harbour of Ria Lexa We had fair Weather and little Wind till 2 a clock in the afternoon then we had a Tornado from the shore with much Thunder Lightning and Rain and such a gust of Wind that we were all like to be founder d. In this extremity we put right afore the Wind every Canoas crew making what shift they could to avoid the threatning danger The small Canoas being most light and buoyant mounted nimbly over the Surges but the great heavy Canoas lay like logs in the Sea ready to be swallowed by every foaming billow Some of our Canoas were half full of water yet kept two men constantly heaving it out The fierceness of the Wind continued about half an hour and abated by degrees and as the Wind died away so the fury of the Sea abated For in all hot Countries as I have observed the Sea is soon raised by the Wind and as soon down again when the Wind is gone and therefore it is a proverb among the Sea-men Up Wind up Sea Down Wind down Sea At 7 a clock in the evening it was quite calm and the Sea as smooth as a Mill-pond Then we tugg'd to get into the shore but finding we could not do it before day we rowed off again to keep our selves out of sight By that time it was day we were 5 leagues from the Land which we thought was far enough off shore Here we intended to lye till the evening but at 3 a clock in the afternoon we had another Tornado more fierce than that which we had the day before This put us in greater peril of our lives but did not last so long As soon as the violence of the Tornado was over we rowed in for the shore and entered the Harbour in the night The Creek which leads towards Leon lieth on the S. E. side of the Harbour Our Pilot being very well acquainted here carried us into the mouth of it but could carry us no farther till day because it is but a small Creek and there are other Creeks like it The next morning as soon as it was light we rowed into the Creek which is very narrow the Land on both sides lying so low that every tide it is overflown with the Sea This sort of Land produceth red Mangrove-trees which are here so plentiful and thick that there is no passing thro them Beyond these Mangroves on the firm Land close by the side of the River the Spaniards have built a Brestwork purposely to hinder an Enemy from landing When we came in sight of the Brestwork we rowed as fast as we could to get ashore The noise of our Oars allarmed the Indians who were set to watch and presently they ran away towards the City of Leon to give notice of our approach We landed as soon as we could and marched after them 470 men were drawn out to march to the Town and I was left with 59 men more to stay and guard the Canoas till their return The City of Leon is 20 mile up in the Country The way to it plain and even through a champion Country of long grassy Savannahs and spots of high Woods About 5 mile from the landing place there is a Sugar work 3 mile farther there is another and 2 mile beyond that there is a fine River to ford which is not very deep besides which there is
up their mother Fruit did not the Indians who plant large fields of these Trees when once they perceive the Fruit open take care to drive them out for they spread under the branches of the Tree a large Linnen cloth and then with sticks they shake the branches and so disturb the poor insects that they take wing to be gone yet hovering still over the head of their native Tree but the heat of the Sun so disorders them that they presently fall down dead on the cloth spread for that purpose where the Indians let them remain 2 or 3 days longer till they are throughly dry When they fly up they are red when they fall down they are black and when first they are quite dry they are white as the sheet wherein they lye though the colour change a little after These yield the much esteemed Scarlet The Cochineel-trees are called by the Spaniards Toona's They are planted in the Country about Guatimala and about Cheape and Guaxaca all 3 in the Kingdom of Mexico The Silvester is a red grain growing in a Fruit much resembling the Cochineel-fruit as doth also the Tree that bears it There first shoots forth a yellow Flower then comes the Fruit which is longer than the Cochineel-fruit The Fruit being ripe opens also very wide The inside being full of these small Seeds or Grains they fall out with the least touch or shake The Indians that gather them hold a dish under to receive the Seed and then shake it down These Trees grow wild and 8 or 10 of these Fruits will yield an ounce of Seed but of the Cochineel-fruits 3 or 4 will yield an ounce of insects The Silvester gives a colour almost as fair as the Cochineel and so like it as to be often mistaken for it but it is not near so valuable I often made enquiry how the Silvester grows and of the Cochineel but was never fully satisfied till I met a Spanish Gentleman that had lived 30 years in the West Indies and some years where these grow and from him I had these relations He was a very intelligent person and pretended to be well acquainted in the Bay of Campechy therefore I examined him in many particulars concerning that Bay where I was well acquainted my self living there 3 years He gave very true and pertinent answers to all my demands so that I could have no distrust of what he related When we first saw the Mountain of Guatimala we were by judgment 25 leagues distance from it As we came nearer the Land it appeared higher and plainer yet we saw no fire but a little smoak proceeding from it The Land by the Sea was of a good height yet but low in comparison with that in the Country The Sea for about 8 or 10 leagues from the shore was full of floating Trees or Drift Wood as it is called of which I have seen a great deal but no where so much as here and Pumice-stones floating which probably are thrown out of the burning Mountains and washed down to the shore by the Rains which are very violent and frequent in this Country and on the side of Honduras it is excessively wet The 24th day we were in lat 14 d. 30 m. North and the weather more settled Then Captain Townly took with him 106 men in 9 Canoas and went away to the Westward where he intended to Land and romage in the Country for some refreshment for our sick men we having at this time near half our men sick and many were dead since we left Ria Lexa We in the Ships lay still with our Topsails furled and our Corses or lower Sails hal'd up this day and the next that Captain Townly might get the start of us The 26th day we made sail again coasting to the Westward having the Wind at North and fair weather We ran along by a tract of very high Land which came from the Eastward more within Land than we could see after we fell in with it it bare us company for about 10 leagues and ended with a pretty gentle descent towards the West There we had a perfect view of a pleasant low Country which seemed to be rich in Pasturage for Cattle It was plentifully furnished with groves of green Trees mixt among the grassy Savannahs Here the Land was fenced from the Sea with high sandy Hills for the Waves all along this Coast run high and beat against the shore very boisterously making the Land wholly unapproachable in Boats or Canoas So we Coasted still along by this low Land 8 or 9 leagues farther keeping close to the shore for fear of missing Captain Townly We lay by in the night and in the day made an easie sail The 2d day of October Captain Townly came aboard he had coasted along shore in his Canoas seeking for an entrance but found none At last being out of hopes to find any Bay Creek or River into which he might safely enter he put ashore on a sandy Bay but overset all his Canoas he had one man drowned and several lost their Arms and some of them that had not waxt up their Cartrage or Catouche Boxes wet all their Powder Captain Townly with much ado got ashore and dragged the Canoas up dry on the Bay then every man searched his Catouche-box and drew the wet Powder out of his Gun and provided to march into the Country but finding it full of great Creeks which they could not ford they were forced to return again to their Canoas In the night they made good fires to keep themselves warm the next morning 200 Spaniards and Indians fell on them but were immediately repulsed and made greater speed back than they had done forward Captain Townly followed them but not far for fear of his Canoas These men came from Teguantapeque a Town that Captain Townly went chiefly to seek because the Spanish Books make mention of a large River there but whether it was run away at this time or rather Captain Townly and his men were short sighted I know not but they could not find it Upon his return we presently made sail coasting still Westward having the Wind at E. N. E. fair weather and a fresh gale We kept within 2 mile of the shore sounding all the way and found at 6 miles distance from Land 19 fathom at 8 miles distance 21 fathom gross Sand. We saw no opening nor sign of any place to land at so we sailed about 20 leagues farther and came to a small high Island called Tangola where there is good anchoring The Island is indifferently well furnished with Wood and Water and lieth about a league from the shore The Main against the Island is pretty high champion Savannah Land by the Sea but 2 or 3 leagues within land it is higher and very woody We coasted a league farther and came to Guatulco This Port is in lat 15 d. 30 m. it is one of the best in all this Kingdom of Mexico Near a mile
Trade-wind which we made use of with all our Sails and we made many good Observations of the Sun At our first setting out we steer'd into the lat of 13 degrees which is near the lat of Guam then we steered West keeping in that lat By that time we had sailed 20 days our men seeing we made such great runs and the Wind like to continue repined because they were kept at such short allowance Captain Swan endeavoured to perswade them to have a little patience yet nothing but an augmentation of their daily allowance would appease them Captain Swan though with much reluctance gave way to a small enlargement of our commons for now we had not above 10 spoonfuls of boil'd Maiz a man once a day whereas before we had 8 I do believe that this short allowance did me a great deal of good though others were weakened by it for I found that my strength increased and my Dropsy wore off Yet I drank 3 times every 24 hours but many of our men did not drink in 9 or 10 days time and some not in 12 days one of our men did not drink in 17 days time and said he was not adry when he did drink yet he made water every day more or less One of our men in the midst of these hardships was found guilty of theft and condemned for the same to have 3 blows from each man in the Ship with a 2 inch and a half rope on his bare back Captain Swan began first and struck with a good will whose example was followed by all of us It was very strange that in all this Voyage we did not see one Fish not so much as a Flying-fish nor any sort of Fowl but at one time when we were by my account 4975 miles West from Cape Corrientes then we saw a great number of Boobies which we supposed came from some Rocks not far from us which were mentioned in some of our Sea-carts but we did not see them After we had run the 1900 leagues by our reckoning which made the English account to Guam the men began to murmur against Captain Swan for perswading them to come this Voyage but he gave them fair words and told them that the Spanish account might probably be the truest and seeing the gale was likely to continue a short time longer would end our troubles A Map of the EAST INDIES As we drew nigh the Island we met with some small Rain and the Clouds settling in the West were an apparent token that we were not far from Land for in these Climates between or near the Tropicks where the Trade-wind blows constantly the Clouds which fly swift over head yet seem near the Limb of the Horizon to hang without much motion or alteration where the Land is near I have often taken notice of it especially if it is high Land for you shall then have the Clouds hang about it without any visible motion The 20th day of May our Bark being about 3 leagues a head of our Ship sailed over a rocky shole on which there was but 4 fathom water and abundance of Fish swimming about the Rocks They imagin d by this that the Land was not far off so they clapt on a Wind with the Barks head to the North and being past the Shole lay by for us When we came up with them Captain Teat came aboard us and related what he had seen We were then in lat 12 d. 55 m. steering West The Island Guam is laid down in Lat. 13 d. N. by the Spaniards who are Masters of it keeping it as a baiting place as they go to the Philippine Islands Therefore we clapt on a Wind and stood to North-ward being somewhat troubled and doubtful whither we were right because there is no Shole laid down in the Spanish drafts about the Island Guam At 4 a clock to our great joy we saw the Island Guam at about 8 leagues distance It was well for Captain Swan that we got sight of it before our Provision was spent of which we had but enough for 3 days more for as I was afterwards informed the men had contrived first to kill Captain Swan and eat him when the victuals was gone and after him all of us who were accessary in promoting the undertaking this Voyage This made Captain Swan say to me after our arrival at Guam Ah! Dampier you would have made them but a poor Meal for I was as lean as the Captain was lusty and fleshy The Wind was at E. N. E. and the Land bore at N. N. E. therefore we stood to the Northward till we brought the Island to bear East and then we turned to get in to an anchor The account I have given hitherto of our course from Cape Corrientes in the Kingdom of Mexico for I have mentioned another Cape of that name in Peru South of the Bay of Panama to Guam one of the Ladrone Islands hath been in the gross But for the satisfaction of those who may think it serviceable to the fixing the Longitudes of these parts or to any other use in Geography or Navigation I have here subjoined a particular Table of every days run which was as follows A Table of every days Run to Guam Day Course Dist. S. W. Lat. Winds March 31 S W 5 d W 27 17 20 20 11 W N W Ap 1 S W 5 W 106 68 81 R. 19 3 N W N N W 2 S W 1 W 142 98 101 R. 17 25 N b W 3 W by S 102 19 100 Ob. 17 6 N 4 W 12 S 140 29 136 Ob. 16 37 N N N E 5 W 20 S 160 54 150 Ob. 15 43 N 6 W 10 S 108 18 106 Ob. 15 25 N E 7 W 15 S 89 23 86 Ob. 15 2 N E E N E 8 W 2 S 64 5 63 R. 14 57 E N E 9 W 4 S 94 6 93 Ob. 14 51 E N E 10 W 5 S 138 12 137 Ob. 14 39 E N E 11 W 5 S 124 10 123 Ob. 14 29 E N E 12 W 5 S 170 14 169 R. 14 15 E N E 13 W 5 S 170 14 169 R. 14 1 E N E 14 W 5 S 180 15 177 R. 13 46 E N E 15 W 6 S 174 18 172 R. 13 28 E N E cloudy 16 W 6 S 182 19 180 R. 13 9 E N E misty 17 W 6 S 216 22 214 R. 12 47 E N E Rain The Summ of the Westings hitherto is 2283 which make Deg. of Longitude 39d 5m From hence my Course is most West sometimes Southerly sometimes Northerly Day Course Dist. N or S W. Lat. Winds 18 W 192 0 192 R. 12 47 E by N 19 W 180 0 180 R. 12 47 E cloudy 20 W 177 0 170 R. 12 47 E N E 21 W 171 0 171 R. 12 47 E N E 22 W 18 0 180 R. 12 47 E by N 23 R. W. Ob. W 4 N 170 11 N 168 R. 12 47 ob 12 58 E by N 24
us at last the Captain ordered the Drum to be beaten which was done of a sudden with much vigor purposely to scare the poor Creatures They hearing the noise ran away as fast as they could drive and when they ran away in haste they would cry Gurry Gurry speaking deep in the Throat Those Inhabitants also that live on the Main would always run away from us yet we took several of them For as I have already observed they had such bad Eyes that they could not see us till we came close to them We did always give them victuals and let them go again but the Islanders after our first time of being among them did not stir for us When we had been here about a week we hal'd our Ship into a small sandy Cove at a Spring-tide as far as she would sloat and at low Water she was left dry and the sand dry without us near half a mile for the Sea riseth and falleth here about 5 fathom The Flood runs North by East and the Ebb South by West All the Neep-tides we lay wholly a ground for the Sea did not come near us by about a hundred yards We had therefore time enough to clean our Ships bottom which we did very well Most of our Men lay ashore in a Tent where our Sails were mending and our Strikers brought home Turtle and Manatee every day which was our constant food While we lay here I did endeavour to perswade our men to go to some English Factory but was threatened to be turned ashore and left here for it This made me desist and patiently wait for some more convenient place and opportunity to leave them than here Which I did hope I should accomplish in a short time because they did intend when they went from hence to bear down towards Cape Comorin In their way thither they design'd also to visit the Island Cocos which lyeth in Lat. 12 d. 12 m. North by our Drafts hoping there to find of that Fruit the Island having it name from thence CHAP. XVII Leaving New-Holland they pass by the Island Cocos and touch at another Woody Island near it A Land Animal like large Craw-fish Coco-Nuts floating in the Sea The Island Triste bearing Coco's yet over-flown every Spring-tide They anchor at a small Island near that of Nassaw Hog Island and others A Proe taken belonging to Achin Nicobar Island and the rest called by that Name Ambergrease good and bad The manners of the Inhabitants of these Islands They anchor at Nicobar Isle It s Situation Soil and pleasant Mixture of its Bays Trees c. The Melory tree and Fruit used for bread The Natives of Nicobar Island their Form Habit Language Habitations no form of Religion or Government Their Food and Canoas They clean the Ship The Author projects and gets leave to stay ashore here and with him two Englishmen more the Portuguese and 4 Malayans of Achin Their first Rencounters with the Natives Of the common Traditions concerning Cannibals or Man-Eaters Their Entertainment ashore They buy a Canoa to transport them over to Achin but overset her at first going cut Having recruited and improved her they set out again for the East side of the Island They have a War with the Islanders but Peace being re-established they lay in stores and make Preparations for their Voyage MArch the 12th 1688. we sailed from New Holland with the Wind at N. N. W. and fair weather We directed our course to the Northward intending as I said to touch at the Island Cocos but we met with the Winds at N. W. W. N. W. and N N. W. for several days which obliged us to keep a more Easterly course than was convenient to find that Island We had soon after our setting out very bad weather with much Thunder and Lightning Rain and high blustring Winds It was the 26th day of March before we were in the lat of the Island Cocos which is in 12 d. 12 m. and then by judgment we were 40 or 50 leagues to the East of it and the Wind was now at S. W. Therefore we did rather chuse to bear away towards some Islands on the West side of Sumatra than to beat against the Wind for the Island Cocos I was very glad of this being in hopes to make my escape from them to Sumatra or some other place We met nothing of remark in this Voyage beside the catching two great Sharks till the 28th day Then we fell in with a small woody Island in Lat. 10 d. 30 m. Its Longitude from New Holland from whence we came was by my account 12 d. 6 m. West It was deep water about the Island and therefore no anchoring but we sent 2 Canoas ashore one of them with the Carpenters to cut a Tree to make another Pump the other Canoa went to search for fresh water and found a fine small Brook near the S. W. point of the Island but there the Sea fell in on the ashore so high that they could not get it off At noon both our Canoas returned aboard and the Carpenters brought aboard a good Tree which they afterwards made a Pump with such a one as they made at Mindanao The other Canoa brought aboard as many Boobies and Men of War Birds as sufficed all the Ships Company when they were boiled They got also a sort of Land Animal somewhat resembling a large Craw-fish without its great Claws These creatures lived in holes in the dry sandy ground like Rabbits Sir Francis Drake in his Voyage round the world makes mention of such that he found at Ternate or some other of the Spice Islands or near them They were very good sweet Meat and so large that 2 of them were more than a Man could eat being almost as thick as ones Leg. Their Shells were of a dark brown but red when boiled This Island is of a good heighth with steep Cliffs against the S. and S. W. and a sandy Bay on the North side but very deep water steep to the shore The Mold is blackish the Soil fat producing large Trees of divers sorts About one a clock in the Afternoon we made sail from this Island with the wind at S. W. and we steered N. W. Afterwards the winds came about at N. W. and continued between the W. N. W. and the N. N. W. several days I observed that the winds blew for the most part out of the West or N. W. and then we had always rainy weather with Tornadoes and much Thunder and Lightning but when the wind came any way to the Southward it blew but faint and brought fair weather We met nothing of remark till the 7th day of April and then being in Lat. 7 d. S. we saw thâ—… Land of Sumatra at a great distance bearing North. The 8th day we saw the East end of the Island Sumatra very plainly we being then in Lat. 6 d. S. The 10th day being in Lat. 5 d. 11 m. and about 7
scarce kill a man purposely to eat him I know not what barbarous Customs may formerly have been in the world and to sacrifice their Enemies to their Gods is a thing hath been much talkt of with relation to the Savages of America I am a stranger to that also if it be or have been customary in any Nation there and yet if they sacrifice their Enemies it is not necessary they should eat them too After all I will not be peremptory in the Negative but I speak as to the compass of my own knowledge and know some of these Cannibal stories to be false and many of them have been disproved since I first went to the West Indies At that time how barbarous were the poor Florida Indians accounted which now we find to be civil enough What strange stories have we heard of the Indians whose Islands where called the Isles of Cannibals Yet we find that they do Trade very civilly with the French and Spaniards and have done so with us I do own that they have formerly endeavoured to destroy our Plantations at Barbadoes and have since hindred us from settling the Island Santa Lucia by destroying 2 or 3 Colonies successively of those that were settled there and even the Island Tabago has been often annoyed and ravaged by them when settled by the Dutch and still lies waste though a delicate fruitful Island as being too near the Caribbees on the Continent who visit it every year But this was to preserve their own right by endeavouring to keep out any that would settle themselves on those Islands where they had planted themselves yet even these people would not hurt a single person as I have been told by some that have been Prisoners among them I could instance also in the Indians of Bocca Toro and Bocca Drago and many other places where they do live as the Spaniards call it wild and salvage yet there they have been familiar with Privateers but by abuses have withdrawn their friendship again As for these Nicobar people I found them affable enough and therefore I did not fear them but I did not much care whether I had gotten any more Company or no. But however I was very well satisfied and the rather because we were now men enough to row our selves over to the Island Sumatra and accordingly we presently consulted how to purchase a Canoa of the Natives It was a fine clear Moon-light Night in which we were left ashore Therefore we walked on the sandy Bay to watch when the Ship would weigh and be gone not thinking our selves secure in our new gotten liberty till then About 11 or 12 a clock we saw her under sail and then we returned to our Chamber and so to sleep This was the 6th of May. The next morning betimes our Landlord with 4 or 5 of his friends came to see his new guests and was somewhat surprized to see so many of us for he knew of no more but my self Yet he seemed to be very well pleased and entertained us with a large Calabash of Toddy which he brought with him Before he went away again for wheresoever we came they left their Houses to us but whether out of fear or superstition I know not we bought a Canoa of him for an Ax and we did presently put our Chests and Cloaths in it designing to go to the South end of the Island and lye there till the Monsoon shifted which we expected every day When our things were stowed away we with the Achinese entered with joy into our new Frigot and launched off from the shore We were no sooner off but our Canoa overset bottom upwards We preserved our lives well enough by swimming and dragg'd also our Chests and Cloaths ashore but all our things were wet I had nothing of value but my Journal and some Drafts of Land of my own taking which I much prized and which I had hitherto carefully preserved Mr. Hall had also such another Cargo of Books and Drafts which were now like to perish But we presently opened our Chests and took out our Books which with much ado we did afterwards dry but some of our Drafts that lay loose in our Chests were spoiled We lay here afterwards 3 days making great fires to dry our Books The Achinese in the mean time fixt our Canoa with Outlagers on each side and they also cut a good Mast for her and made a substantial sail with Mats The Canoa being now very well fixt and our Books and Cloaths dry we launched out the second time and rowed towards the East side of the Island leaving many Islands to the North of us The Indians of the Island accompanied us with 8 or 10 Canoas against our desire for we thought that these men would make Provision dearer at that side of the Island we were going to by giving an account what rates we gave for it at the place from whence we came which was owing to the Ships being there for the Ships crew were not so thrifty in bargaining as they seldom are as single persons or a few men might be apt to be who would keep to one bargain Therefore to hinder them from going with us Mr. Hall scared one Canoas crew by firing a shot over them They all leapt over board and cried out but seeing us row away they got into their Canoa again and came after us The firing of that Gun made all the Inhabitants of the Island to be our Enemies For presently after this we put ashore at a Bay where were four Houses and a great many Canoas but they all went away and came near us no more for several days We had then a great Loaf of Melory which was our constant food and if we had a mind to Coco-nuts or Toddy our Malayans of Achin would climb the Trees and fetch as many Nuts as we would have and a good pot of Toddy every morning Thus we lived till our Melory was almost spent being still in hopes that the Natives would come to us and sell it as they had formerly done But they came not to us nay they opposed us where ever we came and often shaking their Lances at us made all the shew of hatred that they could invent At last when we saw that they stood in opposition to us we resolved to use force to get some of their food if we could not get it other ways With this resolution we went in our Canoa to a small Bay on the North part of the Island because it was smooth water there and good landing but on the other side the wind being yet on that quarter we could not land without jeopardy of oversetting our Canoa and wetting our Arms and then we must have lain at the mercy of our Enemies who stood 2 or 300 men in every Bay where they saw us coming to keep us off When we set out we rowed directly to the North end and presently were followed by 7 or 8 of their Canoas
neither would they speak with us tho we made signs for them to stay We weighed also and jogg'd on after them but they sailed better than we We met little winds and calms so that 't was 7 or 8 days before we got as far as Diamond-point which is about 40 leagues from Achin Being about 4 leagues short off that point Captain Minchin desired me to set the Land and withal prick the Card and see what course we ought to keep all night for it was now about 6 a clock and we had a fine gale at W. S. W. our course yet being E. S. E. After I had set the Land I went into the Cabbin to look over the Draught to see what course we must steer after we came about the point Mr Coventry followed me and when I had satisfied my self he asked me what course we must steer I told him E. S. E. till 12 a clock if the gale stood and then we might hale more Southerly He seemed to be startled at it and told me that the Captain and he had been pricking the Card and thought that a S. E. or S. E. by S. course would do well at 8 a clock I said it was a good course to run ashore he argued a long time with me but I persisted in my opinion and when I told Captain Minchin of my opinion he was well satisfied Presently after this we had a pretty strong Tornado out of the S. W. which obliged us to hand our Top-sail When the stress of the Weather was over we set our Sails again and went in to Supper and ordered the man at Helm not to come to the Southward of the E. S. E. We stayed in the Cabbin till about 8 a clock and then we came out to set the Watch. It was now very dark by reason of a Thunder cloud that hung rumbling over the Land yet by the flashes of lightning we plainly saw the Land right ahead of us I was much surprized and ran into the Steeridge to look on the Compass and found that we were steering S. S. E. instead of E. S. E. I clapt the Helm a Starboard and brought her to N. E. by E. and N. E. we very narrowly escap'd being cast away When we first went to Supper we were 3 leagues off Land and then E. S. E. was a good course the Land lying E. S. E. parallel with our course But then the Man at Helm mistaking him Compass steer'd S. S. E. which runs right in upon the Shore I believe we had also some counter-current or Tide that help'd us in for we were quickly got into a Bay within the points of Land So that 't was now absolutely necessary to steer Northerly to get out of the Bay and by this time Mr Coventry was satisfied with what I told him in the Evening and was convinced of his error I undertook to direct the man at helm and the wind continuing I kept off till ten a Clock then I steered E. S. E. till 12 and then haled up S. S. E. and in the morning we were about 4 leagues S. E. from Diamond point and about 3 leagues to the North of an Island The Land from hence lying S. S. E. we steered so but meeting with calms again we anchored several times before we came to the River of Dilly which is 28 leagues from Diamond-point The Land between seems to be uneven most of it pretty high and very woody and 't is said that all this Country as far as the River Dilly is under the Queen of Achin About a League before we came to that River being within 2 mile of the Shore we saw the water of a muddy grey colour and tasting it found it to be sweet Therefore we presently filled some of our Water Cask and 't is an ordinary thing in several places to take up fresh water at Sea against the mouth of some River where it floats above the Salt water but we must dip but a little way down for sometimes if the Bucket goes but a foot deep it takes up Salt water with the fresh In the evening we had a fine Land Breeze with with which we ran along the Shore keeping on a wind and sounding every now and then At last we were got among the Sholes at the mouth of that River and puzzled to get our again The River is in Lat. 3 d. 50 m. N. It seems to be very large but it is not well known but only to the Natives who inhabit it and they are not very sociable but are by report a sort of Pirats living on rapin In the Morning we saw a sail standing off to an Island called Pulo Verero lying in Lat 3 d. 30 m. N. 7 Leagues from the Mouth of the River Dilly We having a fair wind stood after them intending there to wood and water at Pulo Verero For tho we took no fresh Water the evening before out of the Sea yet at the R. of Dilly it was brackish for tho the fresh water is born up by the Salt and it might be intire without mixture yet by plunging of the Bucket somewhat too low we might probably take up some of the Salt water with it They came to an Anchor about 2 or 3 a clock in the Afternoon but the Wind slackened and it was 8 Clock at night before we came thither We Anchored about a mile from them and presently hoysed out our Boat to go aboard for we judged that this was the Danish Ship that we saw when we came first from Achin I went in the Boat because Mr Coventry told me that Mr Coppenger was Surgeon of her the same person who was with me in the Boat when I was set ashore at the Nicobar Isles but was not suffered to stay with me Mr Coventry was now in the Boat with me and we went and haled the Ship asking whence she came and who was Commander They answered they were Danes from Trangambar for 't was the Ship we took it to be Then they askt who we were I answered English from Achin and that Mr Coventry was in the Boat but they would not believe it till Mr. Coventry spoke and the Captain knew his Voice neither did they till then believe we were Friends for they had every man his Gun in his hand ready to fire on us if we had gone aboard without haling as Mr. Coventry would have done in confidence that they knew him had not I disswaded him For it seems they were extreamly afraid of us insomuch that the Commander seeing us follow them in the morning would not have touched at these Islands tho he was in great want of Water and had not his black Merchants fallen before him on their Knees and even prayed him to take pity on them they had not anchored here These Merchants were inhabitants of Trangambar on the Coast of Coromandel They having no Ships of their own when the Danes fit out a Ship on any Voyage that they are inclined
Yams Potatoes c. to carry aboard with us on which we fed commonly all our Voyage But after six or seven Months I left that employ also and shipt my self aboard one Capt. Hudsel who was bound to the Bay of Campeachy to load Logwood We sailed from Port-Royal about the beginning of August in 1675. in Company with Capt. Wren in a small Jamaica Bark and Capt. Johnson Commander of a Ketch belonging to New-England This Voyage is all the way before the Wind and therefore Ships commonly sail it in 12 or 14 Days Neither were we longer in our Passage for we had very fair Weather and touch'd no where till we came to Trist Island in the Bay of Campeachy which is the only place they go to In our way thither we first sailed by little Caimanes leaving it on our Larboard side and Key Monbrack which are two small Islands lying South of Cuba The next Land we saw was the Isle of Pines and steering still Westerly we made Cape Corienes And sailing on the South side of Cuba till we came to Cape Antonio which is the West end of it we stretched over towards the Peninsula of Jucatan and fell in with Cape Catoch which is in the Extream part of that Promontory towards the East The Land trends from this Cape one way South about 40 Leagues till you come to the Island Cozumel and from thence it runs S. W. down into the Bay of Honduras About 10 Leagues from Cape Catoch between it and Cozumel lies a small Island called by the Spaniards Key-Muger or Womens-Island because 't is reported that when they went first to settle in these parts they left their Wives there while they went over on the main to find some better Habitation Tho' now they have no settlement near it whatever they have had formerly About 3 Leagues from Cape Catoch and just against it is a small Island called Loggerhead-Key probably because it is frequently visited by a sort of Turtle so called near this Island we always find a great ripling which Seamen call the Rip-raps This Cape tho' it appears to be part of the Main yet is divided from it by a small Creek scarce wide enough for a Canoa to pass through though by it 't is made an Island This I have been credibly informed of by some who yet told me that they made a shift to pass it in a Canoa The Cape is very low Land by the Sea but somewhat higher as you go further from the shore It is all over-grown with Trees of divers sorts especially Logwood and therefore was formerly much frequented by the Jamaica Men who came thither in Sloops to load with it till all the Logwoodtrees near the Sea were cut down but now 't is wholly abandoned because the Carriage of it to the shore requires more labour than the cutting logging and chipping Besides they find better Wood now in the Bays of Campeachy and Honduras and have but little way to carry it not above 300 Paces when I was there whereas at Cape Catoch they were forc'd to carry it 1500 Paces before they left that Place From Cape Catoch we coasted along by the shore on the North side of Jucatan towards Cape Condecedo The Coast lies nearest West The distance between these two Capes is about 80 Leagues The shore lies pretty level without any visible Points or Bendings in the Land It is woody by the shore and full of sandy Bays and lofty Mangroves The first place of Note to the West of Cape Catoch is a small Hill by the Sea call'd the Mount and is distant from it about 14 Leagues It is very remarkable because there is no other High-Land on all this Coast. I was never ashore here but have met with some well acquainted with the Place who are all of opinion that this Mount was not natural but the Work of Men And indeed it is very probable this Place has been inhabited for here are a great many large Cisterns supposed to have been made for the receiving of Rain-water for there are no fresh Springs to be found here the Soil being all sandy and very salt So that as I have been credibly informed by an intelligent Person the Spaniards do fetch of it to make Salt-Petre He also told me that being once there in a Privateer and landing some Men on the Bay they found about 100 Packs of this Earth bound up in Palmeto-leaves and a Spanish Mulatto to guard it The Privateers at first sight of the Packs were in hopes there had been Maiz or Indian Corn in them which they then wanted but opening them they found nothing but Earth and examining the Mulatto for what use it was he said to make Powder and that he expected a Bark from Campeachy to fetch it away He further told me that tasting of it he found it very salt as all the Earth thereabouts was So that 't is not improbable that those Cisterns were made for the carrying on a Salt-Petre-Work But whatever was the design at first it is now wholly laid aside for there is no use made of them neither are there any Inhabitants near this Place Between the Mount and Cape Condecedo close by the Sea are many little Spots of Mangrove-trees which at a distance appear-like Islands but coming nearer when other lower Trees appear it shews like ragged and broken Ground but at last all the Land presents it self to your view very even The next Place of Note on this Coast is Rio de la Gartos almost in the Mid-way between Cape Catoch and Cape Condecedo This also is a very remarkable Place for here are 2 Groves of High Magnroves one on each side the River by which it may be known very well The River is but small yet deep enough for Canoas The Water is good and I know not any other Brook or fresh River on all the Coast from Cape Catoch till within 3 or 4 Leagues of Campeachy Town A little to the East of this River is a Fish-Range and a small Indian Hutt or two within the Woods where the Indian Fishers who are subject to the Spaniards lye in the Fishing-Seasons their Habitations and Familes being farther up in the Country Here are Poles to hang their Nets on and Barbecues to dry their Fish When they go off to Sea they fish with Hook and Line about 4 or 5 Leagues from the shore for Snappers and Gropers which I have already described in my Voyage round the VVorld Chap. 4. Pag. 91. Since the Privateers and Logwood-ships have sailed this way these Fisher-men are very shy having been often snap'd by them So that now when they are out at Sea if they see a Sail they presently sink their Canoas even with the edge of the Water for the Canoas when they are full of Water will sink no lower and they themselves lye just with their heads above Water till the Ship which they saw is pass'd by or comes Night I have seen them under
lyes a small Island call'd by the Spaniards Isles des Arenas but the English Seamen as is usual with them corrupt the Name strangely and some call it the Desarts others the Desarcusses but of this Island having never seen it I can give no Account All this Coast from Cape Catoch to Cape Condecedo is low-Low-Land the Mount only excepted It is most sandy Bay by the Sea yet some of it is Mangrovy-Land within which you have some spots of dry Savanah and small scrubbed Trees with short thick Bushes among them The Sea deepens gradually from the shore and Ships may Anchor in sandy Ground in any depth from 7 or 8 Foot to 10 or 12 Fathom Water In some Places on this Coast we reckon our distance from the shore by the depth of the Sea allowing 4 Fathom for the first League and for every Fathom afterward a League more But having got thus to Cape Condecedo I shall defer the further description of these Parts from this Cape Southward and Westward to the High-Land of St. Martin which is properly the Bay of Campeachy and from thence also further Westward till my second coming on this Coast when I made so long a stay here To proceed therefore with my prefent Voyage having past Cape Catoch the Mount Rio de la Gartos Sisal and Cape Condecedo we stood Southward directly for Trist the Haven of our Logwood-Cutters at which Place being not above 60 Leagues distant we soon arrived Trist is the Road only for big Ships Smaller Vessels that draw but a little Water run 3 Leagues farther by crossing over a great Lagune that runs from the Island up into the main-Main-Land where they anchor at a Place called One Bush-Key We stayed at Trist 3 days to fill our Water and then with our 2 Consorts sailed thence with the Tide of Blood and the same Tide arrived there This Key is not above 40 Paces long and 5 or 6 broad having only a little crooked Tree growing on it and for that reason it is called One-Bush-Key It seems to be only a heap of Shells for the Island is covered with them The greatest part are Oyster-shells There are a great many Oyster-banks in this Lagune and the adjacent Creeks but none afford better either for largeness or taste than the Bank about this Island In the wet Season the Oysters as well of One-Bush-Key as other Places here are made fresh by the Freshes running out of the Country But in the dry Time they are salt enough In the Creeks they are smaller but more numerous and the Mangrove-Roots that grow by the sides of the Creeks are loaden with them and so are all the Branches that hang in the Water One-Bush-Key is about a Mile from the shore and just against the Island is a small Creek that runs a Mile farther and then opens into another wide Lagune and through this Creek the Logwood is brought to the Ships riding at the Key Between the Oyster-Banks that lye about the Island and the Main there is good Riding in about 12 Foot Water The bottom is very soft Oaz insomuch that we are forced to shoo our Anchors to make them hold The Main by it is all Low mangrovy-Mangrovy-Land which is over-flow'd every Tide and in the Wet Season is covered with Water Here we lay to take in our Lading Our Cargo to purchase Logwood was Rum and Sugar a very good Commodity for the Logwood-Cutters who were then about 250 Men most English that had settled themselves in several Places hereabouts Neither was it long before we had these Merchants came aboard to visit us we were but 6 Men and a Boy in the Ship and all little enough to entertain them for besides what Rum we sold by the Gallon or Ferkin we sold it made into Punch wherewith they grew Frolicksom We had none but small Arms to fire at their drinking Healths and therefore the noise was not very great at a distance but on Board the Vessels we were loud enough till all our Liquor was spent We took no Money for it nor expected any for Logwood was what we came hither for and we had of that in lieu of our Commodities after the rate of 5 Pound per Tun to be paid at the Place where they cut it and we went with our Long-boat to fetch small Quanties But because it would have taken up a long time to Load our Vessel with our own Boat only we hired a Periago of the Logwood-Cutters to bring it on Board and by that means made the quicker dispatch I made two or three Trips to their Huts where I and those with me were always very kindly entertained by them with Pork and Pease or Beef and Dough-Boys Their Beef they got by hunting in the Savanahs As long as the Liquor lasted which they bought of us we were treated with it either in Drams or Punch But for a more particular Account of the Logwood-Cutters I shall refer the Reader to my second Voyage hither which I made shortly after my return to Jamaica because I saw a great prospect of getting Money here if Men would be but diligent and frugal But let 's proceed with our Voyage It was the latter end of September 1675. when we sailed from One-Bush-Key with the Tide of Ebb and anchored again at Trist that same Tide where we watered our Vessel in order to sail This we accomplished in two Days and the third day sailed from Trist towards Jamaica A Voyage which proved very tedious and hazardous to us by reason of our ships being so sluggish a Sailer that She would not ply to Wind-ward whereby we were necessarily driven upon several Shoals that otherwise we might have avoided and forced to spend 13 Weeks in our Passage is usually accomplished in half that time We had now a Passenger with us one Will. Wooders a Jamaica Seaman that with three others that were taken by the Spaniards was sent to the City of Mexico where they remained Prisoners 6 or 8 Months but at last were remanded to La vera Cruz and from thence by Sea to Campeachy They were not imprisoned but only kept to Work on Board the Ship that brought them and soon found an opportunity to make their escapes in this manner They had been imployed ashore all the day and being sent aboard at Night they fell to contrive how to run away with the Boat but considering that they wanted Necessaries for their Voyage they resolved first to go back and supply themselves which they might then do the better because they knew there were none but a few Indians on Board Accordingly having seized and bound the Indians taking with them a Compass with some Bread and Water they put off to Sea and arrivd at Trist a Week before our departure And this Will. Wooders was the means under God of the Preservation of our Ship The third day after we left Trist about 8 in the Morning near 12 or 14 Leagues W. S. W. from Campeachy
anchored on the North side of one of the sandy Islands the most convenient Place for his design Having got ashore his Cask to put his Oyl in and set up a Tent for lodging himself and his Goods he began to kill the Seal and had not wrought above three or four Days before a fierce North-wind blew his Bark ashore By good fortune she was not damnified but his company being but small and so despairing of setting her afloat again they fell to contriving how to get away a very difficult Task to accomplish for it was 24 or 25 Leagues to the nearest Place of the Main and above 100 Leagues to Trist which was the next English settlement But contrary to their expectation instead of that Captain Long bid them follow their Work of Seal-killing and making Oyl assuring them that he would undertake at his own peril to carry them safe to Trist. This though it went much against the grain yet at last he so far prevailed by fair Words that they were contented to go on with their Seal-killing till they had filled all their Cask But their greatest work was yet to do viz. how they should get over to the Main and then Coast down before the Wind to Trist. Their Boat was not big enough to transport them so they concluded to cut down the Barks Masts and rip up her Deck to make a float for that purpose This being agreed on the next Morning betimes pursuant to their Resolution they were going to break up their Vessel but it happened that very Night that two New-England Ketches going down to Trist ran on the backside of the Riff where they struck on the Rocks and were bulged And Captain Long and his Crew seeing them in Distress presently took their Boat and went off to help them unlade their Goods and bring them ashore and in requital they furnished the Captain with such tackle and other Necessaries as he wanted and assisted him in the launching his Vessel and lading his Oyl and so they went merrily away for Trist This lucky accident was much talk'd of amongst the C's Crew and so exasperated the New-England Men when they heard the whole story that they were thinking if their Commanders would have suffered them to have thrown him into the Sea to prevent his doing more mischief For they were sure that he by his Art had caused them to run aground The whole of this Relation I had from Captain Long himself From the main to these Islands the Sea deepens gradually till you come to about 30 Fathom Water and when you are 25 or 26 Leagues off shore to the Eastward of them if you steer away West keeping in that depth you cannot miss them The same Rule is to be observed to find any other Island as the Triangles the Isles Des Arenas c. for the Bank runs all along the shore on which are Soundings of equal depth and the Sea appears of a muddy palish Colour but when past the Bank on the North side of it it resumes its natural greeness and is too deep for any Sounding till you are within 30 Leagues of the North side of the Bay of Mexico where by relation there is such another Bank abounding with Oysters running all along the shore But to return to our Voyage Having spent 2 or 3 days among the Alcranes Islands we set sail again and steering in Southerly for the Main having the Wind at E. N. E. we fell in with it a little to Leeward of Cape Catoch plying under the shore till we reach'd the Cape from thence we continued our Course Northerly the Wind at E. by S. The next Land we designed for was Cape Antonio which is the Westermost Point of the Island Cuba and distant from Cape Catoch about 40 Leagues Some when they sail out of the Bay keep along by the Land of Jucatan till they come as far as the Island Cozumel and from thence stretch over towards Cuba and if the Wind favours them any thing they will get as high as Cape Corientes before they fall in with Cuba for in their Passage from thence they are not in so much danger of being hurried away to the North by the Current between the two Capes or to the North of them as we were For taking our Course Northward till the Lat. of 22 d. 30 m. we tack'd again and the Wind at E. steered away S. S. E. 24 hours and having taken an Observation of the Sun as we did the day before found our selves in 23 d. being driven backwards in 24 hours 30 Miles We had then the Channel open between the two Capes but to the North of either Yet at last we got over to the Cuba shore and fell in with the North of the Island about 7 or 8 Leagues from Cape Antonio Now we both saw and ran thro' some of the Colorado Sholes but found a very good Channel among a great many Rocks that appeared above Water Being thus got within the Sholes between them and Cuba we found a pretty wide clear Channel and good Anchoring and advancing further within a League of the Cape we Anchored and went ashore to get Water but found none In the Evening when the Land-wind sprung up we weighed again and doubling the Cape coasted along on the South side of the Island taking the Advantages both of Sea and Land-winds For though we had now been about two Months from Trist and this the time of the Year for Norths yet to our great trouble they had hitherto failed us and besides as I said before our Ketch was such a Leewardly Vessel that we did not yet expect we could possibly reach Jamaica meerly by turning though sometimes assisted by Sea and Land-Winds In about a Week after this we got up with and coasted along the Isle of Pines for 7 or 8 Leagues and then stood off to Sea and the third Morning fell in with the West end of grand Caymanes This Island is about 40 Leagues South from Pines and about 15 to the West of little Caymanes we anchored at the West end about half a Mile from the shore We found no Water nor any Provision but saw many Crocodiles on the Bay some of which would scarce stir out of the way for us We kill'd none of them which we might easily have done though Food began to be short withus indeed had it been in the Months of June or July we might probably have gotten Turtle for they frequent this Island some Years as much as they do little Caymanes We stayed here but 3 or 4 hours and steered back for Pines intending there to hunt for Beef or Hog of both which there is in great plenty The second day in the Morning we fell in with the West end of Pines and running about 4 or 5 Miles Northward we anchored in 4 Fathom Water clean Sand about two Mile from the shore and right-against a small Creek through the Mangroves into a wide Lagune The Isle of
great goggle Eyes and is very quick sighted It has a thick Neck and strong Legs but weak Footlocks The Hoofs of his Feet are Cloven in the middle And it has two small Hoofs above the Footlock which bending to the Ground when it goes make an Impression on the Sand like four Claws His Tail is short and tapering like a Swines without any Bob at the end This Beast is commonly fat and very good Meat It graseth ashore in wet swampy Ground near Rivers or Ponds but retires to the Water if pursued When they are in the Water they will sink down to the bottom and there walk as on dry Ground They will run almost as fast as a Man but if chased hard they will turn about and look very fierce like a Boar and fight if put to it The Natives of the Country have no Wars with these Creatures but we had many Conflicts with them both on Shore and in the Rivers and though we commonly got the better by killing some and routing the rest yet in the Water we durst not molest them after one Bout which had like to have proved fatal to 3 Men that went in a small Canoa to kill a single Sea-Horse in a River where was 8 or 10 Foot Water The Horse according to his Custom was marching in the bottom of the River and being espied by these Men they wounded him with a long Lance which so enraged the Beast that he rose up immediately and giving a fierce look he opened his Jaws and bit a great piece of the Gunnal or upper edge of the Canoa and was like to over-set it but presently sunk down again to the bottom and the Men made away as fast as they could for fear he should come again The West Branch of the River St. Peter St. Paul after it has run 8 or 9 Leagues N. W loseth it self in Tobasco River about 4 Leagues from the Sea and so makes the Island Tobasco which is 12 Leagues long and 4 broad at the North end for from the River St. Peter St. Paul to the mouth of Tobasco River is accounted 4 Leagues and the Shore lies East and West The first League on the East is mangrove-Mangrove-Land with some Sandy Bay where Turtle come ashore to lay their Eggs. The West part of it is Sandy Bay quite to the River Tobasco But because here is constantly a great Sea you have no good Landing till within the River The N. W. part of it is full of Guaver Trees of the greatest variety and their fruit the largest and best tasted I have met with and 't is really a very delicious place There are also some Coco-Plums and Grapes but not many The Savannahs here are naturally fenced with Groves of Guavers and produce good Grass for Pasture and are pretty well stock'd with fat Bullocks and I do believe it is from their eating the Guaver Fruit that these Trees are so thick For this fruit is full of small seeds which being swallowed whole by the Cattle are voided whole by them again and then taking root in their Dung spring up abundantly Here are also Deer in great numbers these we constantly find feeding in the Savannahs Mornings and Evenings And I remember an unlucky Accident whilst I was there Two or three Men went out one Evening purposely to hunt when they were in the spots of Savannahs they separated to find their Game and at last it so happened that one of them fired at a Deer and killed it and while he was skinning it he was shot stark dead by one of his Consorts who fired at him mistaking him for a Deer The poor Man was very sorry for so sad a mischance and for fear of the dead Man's Friends durst never go back again to Jamaica The River of Tobasco is the most noted in all the Bay of Campeachy and springs also from the high Mountains of Chiapo but much more to the Westward than that of St. Peter St. Paul From thence it runs N. E. till within 4 Leagues of the Sea where it receives the fore-mentioned Branch of St. Peter St. Paul and then runs North till it falls into the Sea Its Mouth is about two Miles wide and there is a Bar of Sand lying off it with not above 11 or 12 foot Water but a Mile or two within the Mouth at a nook or bending of the River on the East-side there is three Fathom and good Riding without any danger from the strength of the Current The Tide flows up about four Leagues in the dry Season but in the Rains not so far for then the Freshes make the Ebb run very strong During the Norths it over-flows all the low Land for 14 or 15 Leagues up the River and you may then take up fresh Water without the Bar. This River near its Mouth abounds with Cat-fish with some Snooks and Manatee in great plenty there being good feeding for them in many of its Creeks especially in one place on the Starbord side about 2 Leagues from the Sea which runs into the Land 2 or 300 paces and then opens very wide and is so shoal that you may see their backs above Water as they feed a thing so rare that I have heard our Musketo-men say they never saw it any where else On the least noise they will all scamper out into the River yet the Musketo-men seldom miss of striking them These are a sort of Fresh-water Manatee not altogether so big as the Sea kind but otherwise exactly alike in shape and tast and I think rather fatter The Land by the Rivers especially on tne Starbord side is swampy and over-grown with Trees Here are also abundance of Land-Turtle the largest that I ever saw till I came to the Gallapagos Islands in the S. Seas viz. Mangroves Macaws and other sorts that I know not In some places near the River side further up the Country are Ridges of dry Land full of lofty Cabbage and Cotton Trees which make a very pleasant Landskip There is no Settlement within 8 Leagues of the River's Mouth and then you come to a small Breast-work where there is commonly a Spaniard with 8 or 9 Indians posted on each side the River to watch for Boats coming that way And because there are divers Greeks running in from the Savannahs some of these Sentinels are so placed in the Woods that they may look into the Savannahs for fear of being surprized on the back side Yet for all their caution these Sentinels were snap'd by Captain Nevil Commander of a small Brigantine in a second Expedition that he made to take the Town called Villa de Mose His first Attempt miscarried by his being discovered But the second time he got into a Creek a League below these Sentinels and there dragging his Canoas over some Trees that were laid cross it purposely to hinder his passage he came in the night upon their backs in their several Posts so that the Town having no notice of his coming
he or any of them are capable to be Guides to conduct a party of men thither if not where and how any Prisoner may be taken that may do it and from thence they afterwards lay their Schemes to prosecute whatever design they take in hand It was 7 or 8 days after before any resolution was taken yet consultations were held every day The French seemed very forward to go to any Town that the English could or would propose because the Governour of Petit-Guavos from whom the Privateers take Commissions had recommended a Gentleman lately come from France to be General of the Expedition and sent word by Captain Tucker with whom this Gentleman came that they should if possible make an attempt on some Town before he return'd again The English when they were in company with the French seem'd to approve of what the French said but never look'd on that General to be fit for the service in hand At length it was concluded to go to a Town the name of which I have forgot it lieth a great way in the Country but not such a tedious march as it would be from hence to Panama Our way to it lay up Carpenter's River which is about 60 leagues to the Westward of Portabell Our greatest obstruction in this design was our want of Boats Therefore it was concluded to go with all our Fleet to St. Andreas a small uninhabited Island lying near the Isle of Providence to the Westward of it in 13 Deg. 15 Min. North Lat. and from Portabell N. N. W. about 70 leagues where we should be but a little way from Carpenter's River And besides at this Island we might build Canoas it being plentifully stored with large Cedars for such a purpose and for this reason the Jamaica-men come hither frequently to build Sloops Cedar being very fit for building and it being to be had here at free-cost beside other Wood. Jamaica is well stored with Cedars of its own chiefly among the Rocky Mountains these also of St. Andreas grow in stony ground and are the largest that ever I knew or heard of the Bodies alone being ordinarily 40 or 50 foot long many 60 or 70 and upwards and of a proportionable bigness The Bermudas Isles are well stored with them so is Virginia which is generally a sandy soil I saw none in the East Indies nor in the South Sea Coast except on the Isthmus as I came over it We reckon the Pereago's and Canoa's that are made of Cedar to be the best of any they are nothing but the Tree itself made hollow Boat-wise with a flat bottom and the Canoa generally sharp at both ends the Pereago at one only with the other end flat But what is commonly said of Cedar that the Worm will not touch it is a mistake for I have seen of it very much worm-eaten All things being thus concluded on we sailed from hence directing our course toward St. Andreas We kept company the first day but at night it blew a hard gale at N. E. and some of our Ships bore away The next day others were forced to leave us and the second night we lost all our company I was now belonging to Captain Archembo for all the rest of the Fleet were over-mann'd Captain Archembo wanting men we that came out of the South Seas must either sail with him or remain among the Indians Indeed we found no cause to dislike the Captain but his French Sea-men were the saddest creatures that I was ever among for tho we had bad weather that requir'd many hands aloft yet the biggest part of them never stirr'd out of their Hammocks but to eat or ease themselves We made a shift to find the Island the fourth day where we met Captain Wright who came thither the day before and had taken a Spanish Tartan wherein were 30 men all well armed She had 4 Patereroes and some long Guns placed in a Swivel on the Gunnel They fought an hour before they yielded The news they related was that they came from Cartagena in company of 11 Armadilloes which are small Vessels of War to seek for the Fleet of Privateers lying in the Sambaloes that they parted from the Armadilloes 2 days before that they were order'd to search the Sambaloes for us and if they did not find us then they were order'd to go to Portabell and lye there till they had farther intelligence of us and he supposed these Armadilloes to be now there We that came over Land out of the South Seas being weary of living among the French desired Captain Wright to fit up his Prize the Tartan and make a Man of War of her for us which he at first seemed to decline because he was settled among the French on Hispaniola and was very well beloved both by the Governor of Petit-Guavos and all the Gentry and they would resent it ill that Captain Wright who had no occasion of Men should be so unkind to Captain Archembo as to seduce his Men from him he being so meanly mann'd that he could hardly sail his Ship with his Frenchmen We told him we would no longer remain with Captain Archembo but would go ashore there and build Canoas to transport our selves down to the Moskitoes if he would not entertain us for Privateers are not obliged to any Ship but free to go ashore where they please or to go into any other Ship that will entertain them only paying for their Provision When Captain Wright saw our resolutions he agreed with us on condition we should be under his command as one Ships Company to which we unanimously consented This Blewfields River comes out between the Rivers of Nicaragua and Veragua At its mouth is a fine sandy Bay where Barks may clean It is deep at its mouth but a shole within so that Ships may not enter yet Barks of 60 or 70 Tuns may It had this name from Captain Blewfield a famous Privateer living on Providence Island long before Jamaica was taken Which Island of Providence was settled by the English and belonged to the Earls of Warwick In this River we found a Canoa coming down the stream and though we went with our Canoas to seek for Inhabitants yet we found none but saw in 2 or 3 places signs that Indians had made on the side of the River The Canoa which we found was but meanly made for want of Tools therefore we concluded these Indians have no commerce with the Spaniards nor with other Indians that have While we lay here our Moskito men went in their Canoa and struck us some Manatee or Sea-cow Besides this Blewfields River I have seen of the Manatee in the Bay of Campethy on the Coasts of Bocca del Drago and Bocco del Toro in the River of Darien and among the South Keys or little Islands of Cuba I have heard of their being found on the North of Jamaica a few and in the Rivers of Surinam in great multitudes which is a very low
himself very well for here lay driven on the Island Masts Yards Timbers and many things that he wanted therefore he hal'd into the Harbour close to the Island and unrigg'd his Ship Before he had done a Dutch Ship of 20 Guns was sent from Querisao to take up the Guns that were lost on the Riff But seeing a Ship in the Harbour and knowing her to be a French Privateer they thought to take her first and came within a mile of her and began to fire at her intending to warp in the next day for it is very narrow going in Captain Pain got ashore some of his Guns and did what he could to resist them tho he did in a manner conclude he must be taken But while his men were thus busied he spy'd a Dutch Sloop turning to get into the Road and saw her in the evening anchor at the West end of the Island This gave him some hope of making his escape which he did by sending two Canoas in the night aboard the Sloop who took her and got considerable purchase in her and he went away in her making a good Reprizal and leaving his own empty Ship to the Dutch Man of War There is another Island to the Eastward of the Isle of Aves about 4 leagues called by Privateers the littleIsle of Aves which is overgrown with Mangrove-trees I have seen it but was never on it There are no Inhabitants that I could learn on either of these Islands but Boobies and a few other Birds While we were at the Isle of Aves we careen'd Captain Wright s Bark and scrubb'd the Sugar-prize and got 2 Guns out of the Wrecks continuing here till the beginning of Feb. 1681 2. We went from hence to the Isles Roca's to careen the Sugar-prize which the Isle of Aves was not a place so convenient for Accordingly we haled close to one of the small Islands and got our Guns ashore the first thing we did and built a Breastwork on the point and planted all our Guns there to hinder an Enemy from coming to us while we lay on the Careen Then we made a House and cover d it with our Sails to put our goods and provisions in While we lay here a French Man of War of 36 Guns came thro the Keys or Little Islands to whom we sold about 10 Tun of Sugar I was aboard twice or thrice and very kindly welcomed both by the Captain and his Lieutenant who was a Cavalier of Malta and they both offer d me great encouragement in France if I would go with them but I ever design'd to continue with those of my own Nation The Islands Roca s are a parcel of small uninhabited Islands lying about the Lat. of 11 d. 40 〈◊〉 about 15 or 16 leagues from the Main and about 20 leagues N. W. b. W. from Tortuga and 6 or 7 leagues to the Westward of Orchilla another Island lying about the same distance from the Main which Island I have seen but was never at it Roca's stretch themselves East and West about 5 leagues and their breadth is about 3 leagues The northernmost of these Islands is the most remarkable by reason of a high white rocky Hill at the West end of it which may be seen a great way and on it there are abundance of Tropick Birds Men of War Booby and Noddys which breed there The Booby and Man of War I have described already The Noddy is a small Black Bird much about the bigness of the English Black-bird and indifferent good meat They build in Rocks We never find them far off from Shore I have seen of them in other places but never saw any of their Nests but in this Island where there is great plenty of them The Tropick Bird is as big as a Pigeon but round and plump like a Partridge They are all white except two or three Feathers in each Wing of a light grey Their Bills are of a yellowish colour thick and short They have one long Feather or rather a Quill about 7 inches long grows out at the Rump which is all the Tail they have They are never seen far without either Tropick for which reason they are called Tropick-birds They are very good food and we meet with them a great way at Sea and I never saw of them any where but at Sea and in this Island where they build and are found in great plenty By the Sea on the South side of that high Hill there is fresh Water comes out of the Rocks but so slowly that it yields not above 40 gallons in 24 hours and it tastes so copperish or aluminous rather and rough in the mouth that it seems very unpleasant at first drinking but after 2 or 3 days any other Water will seem to have no taste The middle of this Island is low plain Land overgrown with long Grass where there are multitudes of small grey Fowls no bigger than a Black-bird yet lay Eggs bigger than a Magpy's and they are therefore by Privateers called Egg-birds The East end of the Island is overgrown with black Mangrove Trees There are three sorts of Mangrove-Trees black red and white The black Mangrove is the largest Tree the body about as big as an Oak and about 20 feet high It is very hard and serviceable Timber but extraordinary heavy therefore not much made use of for building The red Mangrove groweth commonly by the Sea side or by Rivers or Creeks The body is not so big as that of the black Mangrove but always grows out of many roots about the bigness of a Mans Leg some bigger some less which at about 6 8 or 10 foot above the ground joyn into one trunk or body that seems to be supported by so many artificial Stakes Where this sort of Tree grows it is impossible to march by reason of these Stakes which grow so mixt one among another that I have when forced to go through them gone half a mile and never set my foot on the ground stepping from root to root The Timber is hard and good for many uses The inside of the Bark is red and it is used for tanning of Leather very much all over the West Indies The white Mangrove never groweth so big as the other two sorts neither is it of any great use Of the young Trees Privateers use to make Looms or Handles for their Oars for it is commonly strait but not very strong which is the fault of them Neither the black nor white Mangrove grow towering up from stilts or rising roots as the red doth but the body immediately out of the ground like other Trees The Land of this East end is light Sand which is sometimes overflown with the Sea at Spring-tides The Road for Ships is on the South side against the middle of the Island The rest of the Islands of Roca's are low The next to this on the South side is but small flat and even without Trees bearing only Grass On the South side of it
is a Pond of brackish Water which sometimes Privateers use instead of better there is likewise good riding by it About a league from this are two other Islands not 200 yards distant from each other yet a deep Channel for Ships to pass through They are both overgrown with red Mangrove Trees which Trees above any of the Mangroves do flourish best in wet drowned Land such as these two Islands are only the East point of the Westernmost Island is dry Sand without Tree or Bush On this point we careened lying on the South side of it The other Islands are low and have red Mangroves and other Trees on them Here also Ships may ride but no such place for careening as where we lay because at that place Ships may hale close to the shore and if they have but four Guns on the point may secure the Channel and hinder any Enemy from coming near them I observ'd that within among the Islands was good riding in many places but not without the Islands except to the West-ward or S. West of them For on the East or N. E. of these Islands the common Trade-Wind blows and makes a great Sea and to the South-ward of them there is no ground under 70 80 or 100 fathom close by the Land After we had filled what Water we could from hence we set out again in April 1682. and came to Salt-Tortuga so called to distinguish it from the shoals of Dry Tortugas near Cape Florida and from the Isle of Tortugas by Hispaniola which was called formerly French Tortugas though not having heard any mention of that name a great while I am apt to think it is swallow'd up in that of Petit-Guavres the chief Garrison the French have in those parts This Island we arrived at is pretty large uninhabited and abounds with Salt It is in Lat. 11 degrees North and lyeth West and a little Northerly from Margarita an Island inhabited by the Spaniards strong and wealthy it is distant from it about 14 leagues and 17 or 18 from Cape Blanco on the Main A Ship being within these Islands a little to the South-ward may see at once the Main Margarita and Tortuga when it is clear weather The East end of Tortuga is full of rugged bare broken Rocks which stretch themselves a little way out to Sea At the S. E. part is an indifferent good Road for Ships much frequented in peaceable times by Merchant-ships that come hither to lade Salt in the months of May June July and August For at the East end is a large Salt-pond within 200 paces of the Sea The Salt begins to kern or grain in April except it is a dry season for it is observed that rain makes the Salt kern I have seen above 20 Sail at a time in this road come to lade Salt and these Ships coming from some of the Caribbe Islands are always well stored with Rum Sugar and Lime-juice to make Punch to hearten their Men when they are at work getting and bringing aboard the Salt and they commonly provide the more in hopes to meet with Privateers who resort hither in the aforesaid months purposely to keep a Christmas as they call it being sure to meet with Liquor enough to be merry with and are very liberal to those that treat them Near the West end of the Island on the South side there is a small Harbour and some fresh Water That end of the Island is full of shrubby Trees but the East end is rocky and barren as to Trees producing only course Grass There are some Goats on it but not many and Turtle or Tortise come upon the sandy Bays to lay their Eggs and from them the Island hath its Name There is no riding any where but in the Road where the Salt-Ponds are or in the Harbour At this Isle we thought to have sold our Sugar among the English Ships that come hither for Salt but failing there we design'd for Trinidada an Island near the Main inhabited by the Spaniards tolerably strong and wealthy but the Current and Easterly Winds hindering us we passed through between Margarita and the Main and went to Blanco a pretty large Island almost North of Margarita about 30 leagues from the Main and in 11 d. 50 m. North Lat. It is a flat even low uninhabited Island dry and healthy most Savanah of long Grass and hath some Trees of Lignum Vitae growing in Spots with shrubby Bushes of other Wood about them It is plentifully stored with Guano s which are an Animal like a Lizard but much bigger The body is as big as the small of a mans leg and from the hind quarter the tail grows tapering to the end which is very small If a Man takes hold of the tail except very near the hind quarter it will part and breakoff in one of the joints and the Guano will get away They lay Eggs as most of those amphibious creatures do and are very good to eat Their flesh is much esteemed by Privateers who commonly dress them for their sick men for they make very good Broath They are of divers colours as almost black dark brown light brown dark green light green yellow and speckled They all live as well in the Water as on Land and some of them are constantly in the Water and among Rocks These are commonly black Others that live in swampy wet ground are commonly on Bushes and Trees these are green But such as live in dry ground as here at Blanco are commonly yellow yet these also will live in the Water and are sometimes on Trees The Road is on the N. W. end against a small Cove or little sandy Bay There is no riding any where else for it is deep water and steep close to the Land There is one small Spring on the West side and there are sandy Bays round the Island where Turtle or Tortoise come up in great abundance going ashore in the night These that frequent this Island are called green Turtle and they are the best of that sort both for largeness and sweetness of any in all the West Indies I would here give a particular description of these and other sorts of Turtle in these Seas but because I shall have occasion to mention some other sorts of Turtle when I come again into the South Seas that are very different from all these I shall there give a general account of all these several sorts at once that the difference between them may be the better discerned Some of our modern Descriptions speak of Goats on this Island I know not what there may have been formerly but there are none now to my certain knowledge for my self and many more of our Crew have been all over it Indeed these parts have undergone great changes in this last age as well in places themselves as in their Owners and Commodities of them particularly Nombre de Dios a City once famous and which still retains a considerable name in some late
Beetles It was of a dusky colour towards black and about the hardness of mellow Cheese and of a very fragrant smell This that Mr. Hill shewed me being some of it which Mr. Barker gave him Besides those already mentioned all the places where I have heard that Ambergriese hath been found are Bermudas and the Bahama Islands in the West Indies and that part of the Coast of Africk with its adjacent Islands which reaches from Mozambique to the Red-Sea We went from this Island of Sall to St. Nicholas another of the Cape-Verd Islands lying West South West from Sall about 22 leagues We arrived there the next day after we left the other and Anchored on the S. E. side of the Island This is a pretty large Island it is one of the biggest of all the Cape-Verd and lyeth in a triangular-form The largest side which lyeth to the East is about 30 leagues long and the other two above 20 leagues each It is a mountainous barren Island and rocky all round towards the Sea yet in the heart of it there are Valleys where the Portuguese which inhabit here have Vineyards and Plantations and Wood for fewel Here are many Goats which are but poor in comparison with those in other places yet much better than those at Sall There are likewise many Asses The Governour of this Island came aboard us with 3 or 4 Gentlemen more in his Company who were all indifferently well cloathed and accoutred with Swords and Pistols but the rest that accompanied him to the Sea side which were about 20 or 30 men more were but in a ragged garb The Governour brought aboard some Wine made in the Island which tasted much like Madera Wine It was of a pale colour and lookt thick He told us the chief Town was in a Valley 14 mile from the Bay where we rode that he had there under him above one hundred families besides other Inhabitants that lived scattering in Valleys more remote They were all very swarthy the Governour was the cleaâ—est of them yet of a dark tawny complexion At this Island we scrubb'd the bottom of our Ship and here also we 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 ashore on the Bay and fill'd all our water and after 5 or 6 days stay we went from hence to Mayo another of the Cape-Verd Islands lying about 40 miles East and by South from the other arriving there the next day and anchoring on the N. W. side of the Island We sent our Boat on shore intending to have purchased some Provision as Beef or Goat with which this Island is better stock'd than the rest of the Islands But the inhabitants would not suffer our men to land for about a week before our arrival there came an English Ship the men of which came ashore pretending friendship and seized on the Governour with some others and carrying them aboard made them send ashore for Cattle to ransom their Liberties and yet after this set sail and carry'd them away and they had not heard of them since The English-man that did this as I was afterwards informed was one Captain Bond of Bristol Whether ever he brought back those men again I know not He himself and most of his men have since gone over to the Spaniards and t was he who had like to have burnt our Ship after this in the Bay of Panama as I shall have occasion to relate This Isle of Mayo is but small and invironed with sholes yet a place much frequented by shipping for its great plenty of Salt and though there is but bad landing yet many Ships lade here every year Here are plenty of Bulls Cows and Goats and at a certain season in the year as May June July and August a sort of small Sea-Tortoise come hither to lay their Eggs but these Turtle are not so sweet as those in the West Indies The Inhabitants plant Corn Yames Potatoes and some Plantations and breed a few Fowls living very poor yet much better than the Inhabitants of any other of these Islands St. Jago excepted which lieth 4 or 5 leagues to the Westward of Mayo and is the chief the most fruitful and best inhabited of all the Islands of Cape Verd yet mountainous and much barren Land in it On the East side of the Isle of St. Jago is a good Port which in peaceable times especially is seldom without Ships for this hath long been a place which Ships have been wont to touch at for Water and Refreshments as those outward bound to the East Indies English French and Dutch many of the Ships bound to the Coast of Guinea the Dutch to Surinam and their own Portuguese Fleet going for Braziel which is generally about the latter end of September but few Ships call in here in their return for Europe When any Ships are here the Country People bring down their Commodities to sell to the Seamen and Passengers viz. Bullocks Hogs Goats Fowls Eggs Plantains and Cocoa Nuts which they will give in Exchange for Shirts Drawers Handkerchiefs Hats Wastecoats Britches or in a manner for any sort of Cloath especially Linnen for Woollen is not much esteemed there They care not willingly to part with their Cattel of any sort but in exchange for Money or Linnen or some other valuable Commodity Travellers must have a care of these people for they are very thievish and if they see an opportunity will snatch any thing from you and run away with it We did not touch at this Island in this Voyage but I was there before this in the year 1670 when I saw a Fort here lying on the top of an Hill and commanding the Harbour The Governour of this Island is chief over all the rest of the Islands I have been told that there are two large Towns on this Island some small Villages and a great many Inhabitants and that they make a great deal of Wine such as is that of St. Nicholas I have not been on any other of the Cape Verd Islands nor near them but have seen most of them at a distance They seem to be mountainous and barren some of these before-mentioned being the most fruitful and most frequented by Strangers especially St. Jago and Mayo As to the rest of them Fogo and Brava are two small Islands lying to the Westward of St. Jago but of little note only Fogo is remarkable for its being a Vulcano It is all of it one large Mountain of a good heighth out of the top whereof issue Flames of Fire yet only discerned in the night and then it may be seen a great way at Sea Yet this Island is not without Inhabitants who live at the foot of the Mountain near the Sea Their subsistence is much the same as in the other Islands they having some Goats Fowls Plantains Coco-Nuts c. as I am informed Of the Plantains and Coco-Nuts I shall have occasion to speak when I come into the East Indies and shall defer the giving an account of them till then The
without any Tree only some Dildo-bushes growing on them and I do believe there is no Water on any one of them for there was no appearance of any Water The two Northernmost we could not come near but the Southermost we came close by but could not strike ground till within two Cables length of the shore and there found it to be foul rocky ground From the time that we were in 10 degrees South till we came to these Islands we had the Wind between E. N. E. and the N. N. E. fair weather and a brisk gale The day that we made these Islands we saw great sholes of small Lobsters which coloured the Sea Red in spots for a mile in compass and we drew some of them out of the Sea in our Water-Buckets They were no bigger than the top of a Mans little finger yet all their Claws both great and small like a Lobster I never saw any of this sort of Fish naturally red but here for ours on the English Coast which are black naturally are not red till they are boil'd neither did I ever any where else meet with any Fish of the Lobster shape so small as these unless it may be Shrimps or Prawns Captain Swan and Captain Eaton met also with shoals of this Fish in much the same Latitude and Longitude Leaving therefore the Sible de Ward Islands as having neither good Anchorage nor Water we sailed on directing our course for the Streights of Magellan But the Winds hanging in the westerbord and blowing hard oft put us by our Topsails so that we could not fetch it The 6th day of February we fell in with the Streights Le Mair which is very high Land on both sides and the Streights very narrow We had the Wind at N. N. W. a fresh gale and seeing the opening of the Streights we ran in with it till within four mile of the mouth and then it fell calm and we found a strong tide setting out of the Streights to the Northward and like to founder our Ship but whether flood or ebb I know not only it made such a short cockling Sea as if we had been in a race or place where two tides meet For it ran every way sometimes breaking in over our Waste sometimes over our Poop sometimes over our Bow and the Ship tossed like an Egg-shell so that I never felt such uncertain jerks in a Ship At 8 a clock in the evening we had a small Breez at W. N. W. and steered away to the Eastward intending to go round the States Island the East end of which we reached the next day by noon having a fresh breez all night The 7th day at noon being off the East End of States Island I had a good observation of the Sun and found my self in lat 54 deg 52 min. South At the East end of States Island are three small Islands or rather Rocks pretty high and white with the Dung of Fowls Wherefore having observed the Sun we haled up South designing to pass round to the Southward of Cape Horne which is the Southermost Land of Terra del Fuego The Winds hung in the western quarter betwixt the N. W. and the West so that we could not get much to the Westward and we never saw Terra del Fuego after that evening that we made the Streight Le Mair I have heard that there have been Smokes and Fires on Terra del Fuego not on the tops of Hills but in Plains and Valleys seen by those who have sailed through the Streights of Magellan supposed to be made by the Natives We did not see the Sun at rising or setting in order to take an amplitude after we left the Sibble de Wards till we got into the South Seas therefore I know not whether the variation increased any more or no. Indeed I had an observation of the Sun at noon in lat 59 deg 30 min. and we were then standing to the Southward with the Wind at W. by N. and that night the Wind came about more to the Southward of the West and we tackt I was then in lat 60 by reckning which was the farthest South latitude that ever I was in The 14th day of February being in lat 57. and to the West of Cape Horne we had a violent Storm which held us till the third day of March blowing commonly at S. W. and S. W. by W. and W. S. W. thick weather all the time with small drizling Rain but not hard We made a shift however to save 23 Barrels of Rain-water besides what we drest our Victuals withal March the third the Wind shifted at once and came about at South blowing a fierce gale of Wind soon after it came about to the Eastward and we stood into the South Seas The 9th day having an observation of the Sun not having seen it of late we found ourselves in lat 47 d. 10 m. and the variation to be but 15 d. 30 m. East The Wind stood at S. E. we had fair weather and a moderate gale and the 17th day we were in lat 36 by observation and then found the variation to be but 8 degrees East The 19th day when we looked out in the morning we saw a Ship to the Southward of us coming with all the Sail she could make after us we lay muzled to let her come up with us for we supposed her to be a Spanish Ship come from Baldivia bound to Lima we being now to the Northward of Baldivia and this being the time of the year when Ships that trade thence to Baldivia return home They had the same opinion of us and therefore made sure to take us but coming nearer we both found our mistakes This proved to be one Captain Eaton in a Ship sent purposely from London for the South Seas We hailed each other and the Captain came on board and told us of his actions on the Coast of Brazil and in the River of Plate He met Captain Swan one that came from England to trade here at the East Entrance into the Streights of Magellan and they accompanied each other through the Streights and were separated after they were through by the Storm before mentioned Both we and Captain Eaton being bound for John Fernando's Isle we kept company and we spared him Bread and Beef and he spared us Water which he took in as he passed through the Streights March the 22d 1684. we came in sight of the Island and the next day got in and anchored in a Bay at the South end of the Island in 25 fathom water not two Cables lengths from the shore We presently got out our Canoa and went ashore to see for a Moskito Indian whom we left here when we were chaced hence by three Spanish Ships in the year 1681. a little before we went to Arica Captain Watlin being then our Commander after Captain Sharp was turned out This Indian lived here alone above 3 years and altho he was several
times sought after by the Spaniards who knew he was left on the Island yet they could never find him He was in the Woods hunting for Goats when Captain Watlin drew off his men and the Ship was under sail before he came back to shore He had with him his Gun and a Knife with a small Horn of Powder and a few Shot which being spent he contrived a way by notching his Knife to saw the barrel of his Gun into small pieces wherewith he made Harpoons Lances Hooks and a long Knife heating the pieces first in the fire which he struck with his Gunflint and a piece of the barrel of his Gun which he hardened having learnt to do that among the English The hot pieces of Iron he would hammer out and bend as he pleased with Stones and saw them with his jagged Knife or grind them to an edge by long labour and harden them to a good temper as there was occasion All this may seem strange to those that are not acquainted with the sagacity of the Indians but it is no more than these Moskito men are accustomed to in their own Country where they make their own Fishing and Striking Instruments without either Forge or Anvil tho they spend a great deal of time about them Other Wild Indians who have not the use of Iron which the Moskito men have from the English make Hatchets of a very hard stone with which they will cut down Trees the Cotton Tree especially which is a soft tender Wood to build their Houses or make Canoas and though in working their Canoas hollow they cannot dig them so neat and thin yet they will make them fit for their service This their digging or hatchet-work they help out by fire whether for the felling of the Trees or for the making the inside of their Canoa hollow These contrivances are used particularly by the Savage Indians of Blewfield s River described in the 3d Chapter whose Canoas and Stone-hatchets I have seen These Stone-hatchets are about 10 inches long 4 broad and 3 inches thick in the middle They are grownd away flat and sharp at both ends right in the midst and clear round it they make a notch so wide and deep that a man might place his Finger along it and taking a stick or withe about 4 foot long they bind it round the Hatchet-head in that notch and so twisting it hard use it as an handle or helve the head being held by it very fast Nor are other Wild Indians less ingenious Those of Patagonia particularly head their Arrows with Flint cut or grownd which I have seen and admired But to return to our Moskito man on the Isle of John Fernando With such Instruments as he made in that manner he got such Provision as the Island afforded either Goats or Fish He told us that at first he was forced to eat Seal which is very ordinary meat before he had made Hooks but afterwards he never kill'd any Seals but to make lines cutting their skins into thongs He had a little House or Hut half a mile from the Sea which was lined with Goats skin his Couch or Barbecu of sticks lying along about 2 foot distant from the ground was spread with the same and was all his Bedding He had no Cloaths left having worn out those he brought from Watlin's Ship but only a Skin about his Waste He saw our Ship the day before we came to an Anchor and did believe we were English and therefore kill'd 3 Goats in the morning before we came to an anchor and drest them with Cabbage to treat us when we came ashore He came then to the Sea side to congratulate our safe arrival And when we landed a Moskito Indian named Robin first leapt ashore and running to his brother Moskito man threw himself flat on his face at his feet who helping him up and embracing him fell flat with his face on the ground at Robins feet and was by him taken up also We stood with pleasure to behold the surprize and tenderness and solemnity of this interview which was exceedingly affectionate on both sides and when their ceremonies of civility were over we also that stood gazing at them drew near each of us embracing him we had found here who was overjoyed to see so many of his old friends come hither as he thought purposely to fetch him He was named Will as the other was Robin These were names given them by the English for they have no names among themselves and they take it as a great favour to be named by any of us and will complain for want of it if we do not appoint them some name when they are with us saying of themselves they are poor Men and have no name This Island is in lat 34 d. 15 m. and about 120 leagues from the Main It is about 12 leagues round full of high Hills and small pleasant Valleys which if manured would probably produce any thing proper for the Climate The sides of the Mountains are part Savanahs part Wood-land Savanahs are clear pieces of Land without Woods not because more barren than the Wood-land for they are frequently spots of as good Land as any and often are intermixt with Wood-land In the Bay of Campeachy are very large Savanahs which I have seen full of Cattle but about the River of Plate are the largest that ever I heard of 50 60 or 100 miles in length and Jamaica Cuba and Hispaniola have many Savanahs intermixt with Woods Places cleared of Wood by Art and Labour do not go by this name but those only which are found so in the uninhabited parts of America such as this Isle of John Fernandoes or which were originally clear in other parts The Grass in these Savanahs at John Fernando's is not a long flaggy Grass such as is usually in the Savanahs in the West-Indies but a sort of kindly Grass both thick and flourishing the biggest part of the year The Woods afford divers sorts of Trees some large and good Timber for Building but none fit for Masts The Cabbage Trees of this Isle are but small and low yet afford a good head and the Cabbage very sweet This Tree I shall describe in the Appendix in the Bay of Campeachy The Savanahs are stocked with Goats in great Herds but those that live on the East end of the Island are not so fat as those on the West end for though there is much more Grass and plenty of Water in every Valley nevertheless they thrive not so well here as on the West end where there is less food and yet there are found greater Flocks and those too fatter and sweeter That West end of the Island is all high Champion ground without any Vally and but one place to land there is neither Wood nor any fresh Water and the Grass short and dry Goats were first put on the Island by John Fernando who first discovered it in his Voyage from Lima to Baldivia
and discovered also another Island about the same bigness 20 leagues to the Westward of this From those Goats these were propogated and the Island hath taken its name from this its first Discoverer who when he returned to Lima desired a Patent for it designing to settle here and it was in his second Voyage hither that he set ashore 3 or 4 Goats which have since by their increase so well stocked the whole Island But he could never get a Patent for it therefore it lies still destitute of Inhabitants though doubtless capable of maintaining 4 or 500 Families by what may be produced off the Land only I speak much within compass for the Savanahs would at present feed 1000 head of Cattle besides Goats and the Land being cultivated would probably bear Corn or Wheat and good Pease Yams or Patatoes for the Land in their Valleys and sides of the Mountains is of a good black fruitful mould The Sea about it is likewise very productive of its Inhabitants Seals swarm as thick about this Island as if they had no other place in the World to live in for there is not a Bay nor Rock that one can get ashore on but is full of them Sea Lyon's are here in great Companys and Fish particularly Snappers and Rock-fish are so plentiful that 2 men in an hours time will take with Hook and Line as many as will serve 100 men The Seals are a sort of Creatures pretty well known yet it may not be amiss to describe them They are as big as Calves the head of them like a Dog therefore call'd by the Dutch the Sea-hounds Under each Shoulder grows a long thick Fin These serve them to swim with when in the Sea and are instead of Legs to them when on the Land for raising their Bodies up on end by the help of these Fins or Stumps and so having their Tail-parts drawn close under them they rebound as it were and throw their bodies forward drawing their hinder-parts after them and then again rising up and springing forward with their fore-parts alternately they lie tumbling thus up and down all the while they are moving on Land From their Shoulders to their Tails they grow tapering like Fish and have two small Fins on each side the Rump which is commonly covered with their Fins These Fins serve instead of a Tail in the Sea and on Land they sit on them when they give suck to their young Their hair is of divers colours as black grey dun sported looking very sleek and pleasant when they come first out of the Sea For these at John Fernando s have fine thick short Furr the like I have not taken notice of any where but in these Seas Here are always thousands I might say possibly millions of them either sitting on the Bays or going and coming in the Sea round the Island which is covered with them as they lye at the top of the Water playing and sunning themselves for a mile or two from the Shore When they come out of the Sea they bleat like Sheep for their young and tho they pass through hundreds of others young ones before they come to their own yet they will not suffer any of them to suck The young ones are like Puppies and lie much ashore but when beaten by any of us they as well as the old ones will make toward the Sea and swim very swift and nimble tho on shore they lye very sluggishly and will not go out of our ways unless we beat them but snap at us A blow on the Nose soon kills them Large Ships might here load themselves with Seals skins and Trane-oyl for they are extraordinary fat Seals are found as well in cold as hot Climates and in the cold places they love to get on Lumps of Ice where they will lie and sun themselves as here on the Land They are frequent in the Northern parts of Europe and America and in the Southern parts of Africa as about the Cape of Good Hope and at the Streights of Magellan and though I never saw any in the West Indies but in the Bay of Campeachy at certain Islands called the Alceranes and at others called the Desartes yet they are over all the American Coast of the South Seas from Terra del Fuego up to the Equinoctial Line but to the North of the Equinox again in these Seas I never saw any till as far as 21 North Lat. Nor did I ever see any in the East Indies In general they seem to resort where there is plenty of Fish for that is their food and Fish such as they feed on as Cods Groopers c. are most plentiful on rocky Coasts and such is mostly this Western Coast of the South America as I shall further relate The Sea Lion is a large creature about 12 or 14 foot long The biggest part of his body is as big as a Bull it is shaped like a Seal but 6 times as big The Head is like a Lion's Head it hath a broad Face with many long Hairs growing about its Lips like a Cat. It has a great goggle Eye the Teeth inches long about the bigness of a Mans Thumb In Capt. Sharp's time some of our Men made Dice with them They have no Hair on their Bodies like the Seal they are of a dun colour and are all extraordinary fat one of them being cut up and boil'd will yeild a Hogshed of Oil which is very sweet and wholesome to fry Meat withal The lean Flesh is black and of a course grain yet indifferent good food They will lye a week at a time ashore if not disturbed Where 3 or 4 or more of them come ashore together they huddle one on another like Swine and grunt like them making a hideous noise They eat Fish which I believe is their common food The Snapper is a Fish made much like a Roach but a great deal bigger It hath a large Head and Mouth and great Gills The Back is of a bright Red the Belly of a Silver-colour The Scales are as broad as a Shilling The Snapper is excellent meat They are in many places in the West-Indies and the South-Seas I have not seen them any where beside The Rock-fish is called by Sea-men a Grooper the Spaniards call it a Baccalao which is the name for Cod because it is much like it It is rounder than the Snapper of a dark brown colour and hath small Scales no bigger than a Silver-penny This Fish is good sweet meat and is found in great plenty on all the Coast of Peru and Chili There are only two Bays in the whole Island where Ships may Anchor these are both at the East end and in both of them is a Rivolet of good fresh Water Either of these Bays may be fortified with little charge to that degree that 50 men in each may be able to keep off 1000 and there is no coming into these Bays from the West end but with great
difficulty over the Mountains where if 3 men are placed they may keep down as many as come against them on any side This was partly experienced by 5 Englishmen that Captain Davis left here who defended themselves against a great body of Spaniards who landed in the Bays and came here to destroy them and though the second time one of their Consorts deserted and fled to the Spaniards yet the other 4 kept their ground and were afterward taken in from hence by Captain Strong of London We remained at John Fernando's 16 days our sick men were ashore all the time and one of Captain Eaton's Doctors for he had 4 in his Ship tending and feeding them with Goat and several Herbs whereof here is plenty growing in the Brooks and their Diseases were chiefly Scorbutick CHAP. V. The Author departs from John Fernando's Of the Pacifick Sea Of the Andes or high Mountains in Peru and Chili A Prize taken Isle of Lobos Penguins and other Birds there Three Prizes more The Islands Gallapago's The Dildo tree Burton wood Mammet trees Guanoes Land Tortoise their several kind Green Snakes Turtle-Doves Tortoise or Turtle-grass Sea Turtle their several kinds The Air and Weather at the Gallapago's Some of the Islands describ'd their Soil c. The Island Cocos describ'd Cape Blanco and the Bay of Caldera the Sevanahs there Captain Cook dies Of Nicoya and a Red Wood for Dying and other Commodities A narrow Escape of 12 Men. Lance-wood Volean Vejo a burning Mountain on the Coast of Ria Lexa A Tornado The Island and Harbor of Ria Lexa The Gulph of Amapalla and Point Casivina Isles of Mangera and Amapalla The Indian Inhabitants Hog-plumb tree Other Islands in the Gulph of Amapalla Captain Eaton and Captain Davis careen their Ships here and afterwards part THE 8th of April 1684. we sailed from the Isle of John Fernando with the Wind at S. E. We were now 2 Ships in Company Captain Cook 's whose Ship I was in and who here took the Sickness of which he dy'd a while after and Captain Eaton's Our passage lay now along the Pacifick Sea properly so called For though it be usual with our Map-makers to give that Name to this whole Ocean calling it Mare Australe Mar del Zar or Mare Pacificum yet in my opinion the Name of the Pacifick Sea ought not to be extended from South to North farther than from 30 to about 4 degrees South Latitude and from the American Shore Westward indefinitely with respect to my Observation who have been in these parts 250 Leagues or more from Land and still had the Sea very quiet from Winds For in all this Tract of Water of which I have spoken there are no dark rainy Clouds though often a thick Horizon so as to hinder an Observation of the Sun with the Quadrant and in the morning hazy weather frequently and thick Mists but scarce able to wet one Nor are there in this Sea any Winds but the Trade-wind no Tempests no Tornado's or Hurricans though North of the Equator they are met with as well in this Ocean as in the Atlantick yet the Sea it self at the new and full of the Moon runs with high large long Surges but such as never break out at Sea and so are safe enough unless that where they fell in and break upon the shore they make it bad landing In this Sea we made the best of our way toward the Line till in the lat of 24. S. where we fell in with the main Land of the South America All this course of the Land both of Chili and Peru is vastly high therefore we kept 12 or 14 leagues off from shore being unwilling to be seen by the Spaniards dwelling there The Land especially beyond this from 24 deg S. Lat. to 17 and from 14 to 10 is of a most prodigious heighth It lies generally in ridges parallel to the Shore and 3 or 4 ridges one within another each surpassing other in heighth and those that are farthest within Land are much higher than the others They always appear blue when seen at Sea sometimes they are obscured with Clouds but not so often as the high Lands in other parts of the world for here are seldom or never any Rains on these Hills any more than in the Sea near it neither are they subject to Fogs These are the highest Mountains that ever I saw far surpassing the Pike of Tenariffe or Santa Martha and I believe any Mountains in the world I have seen very high Land in the Lat. of 30 South but not so high as in the Latitudes before described In Sir John Narborough's Voyage also to Baldivia a City on this Coast mention is made of very high Land seen near Baldivia and the Spaniard with whom I have discoursed have told me that there is very high Land all the way between Coquimbo which lies in about 30 deg S. Lat. and Baldivia which is in 40 South so that by all likelihood these ridges of Mountains do run in a continued Chain from one end of Peru and Chili to the other all along this South Sea Coast called usually the Andes or Sierra Nuevada des Andes The excessive heighth of these Mountains may possibly be the reason that there are no Rivers of note that fall into these Seas Some small Rivers indeed there are but very few of them for in some places there is not one that comes out into the Sea in 150 or 200 Leagues and where they are thickest they are 30 40 or 50 Leagues asunder and too little and shallow to be navigable Besides some of these do not constantly run but are dry at certain seasons of the year as the River of Ylo runs flush with a quick Current at the latter end of January and so continues till June and then it decreaseth by degrees growing less and running slow till the latter end of September when it fails wholly and runs no more till January again This I have seen at both seasons in two former Voyages I made hither and have been informed by the Spaniards that other Rivers on this Coast are of the like nature being rather Torrents or Land-floods caused by their Rains at certain seasons far within Land than Perennial Streams We kept still along in sight of this Coast but at a good distance from it encountring with nothing of Note till in the lat of 9 deg 40 min. South on the 3d of May we descried a Sail to the Northward of us She was plying to Windward we chaced her and Captain Eaton being a head soon took her she came from Guiaquil about a month before laden with Timber and was bound to Lima. Three days before we took her she came from Santa whither she had gone for Water and where they had news of our being in these Seas by an Express from Baldivia for as we afterwards heard Captain Swan had been at Baldivia to seek a Trade there and he having met Captain
Eaton in the Streights of Magellan the Spaniards of Baldivia were doubtless informed of us by him suspecting him also to be one of us tho he was not Upon this News the Viceroy of Lima sent Expresses to all the Sea Ports that they might provide themselves against our Assaults We immediately steered away for the Island Lobos which lieth in lat 6 deg 24 min. South lat I took the Elevation of it ashore with an Astrolabe and its 5 leagues from the Main it is called Lobos de la Mar to distinguish it from another that is not far from it and extremely like it called Lobos de la Terra for it lies nearer the Main Lobos or Lovos is the Spanish Name for a Seal of which there are great plenty about these and several other Islands in these Seas that go by this Name The 9th of May we arrived at this Isle of Lobos de la Mar and came to an anchor with our Prize This Lobos consists indeed of two little Islands each about a milâ—…und of an indifferent heighth a small Channel between fit for Boats only and several Rocks lying on the North side of the Islands a little way from shore There is a small Cove or Sandy Bay sheltred from the Winds at the West end of the Eastermost Island where Ships may Careen The rest of the shore as well round the 2 Islands as between them is a Rocky Coast consisting of small Cliffs Within Land they are both of them partly Rocky and partly Sandy Barren without any fresh Water Tree Shrub Grass or Herbs or any Land Animals for the Seals and Sea-Lyons come ashore here but Fowls Of which there are great multitudes as Boobies but mostly Penguins which I have seen plentifully all over the South Seas on the Coast of Newfoundland and of the Cape of Good Hope They are a Sea Fowl about as big as a Duck and such Feet but a sharp Bill feeding on Fish They do not fly but flutter having rather stumps like a young Gossins than Wings And these are instead of Fins to them in the Water Their Feathers are Downy Their flesh is but ordinary food but their Eggs are good Meat There is another sort of small black Fowl that make holes in the Sand for their Night habitations whose flesh is good sweet meat I never saw any of them but here and at John Fernandos There is good riding between the Eastermost Island and the Rocks in 10 12 or 14 fathom for the wind is commonly at S. or S. S. E. and the Eastermost Island lying East and West shelters that Road. Here we scrubb'd our Ships and being in a readiness to sail the Prisoners were Examined to know if any of them could conduct us to some Town where we might make some attempt For they had before informed us that we were discried by the Spaniards and by that we knew that they would send no Riches by Sea so long as we were here Many Towns were considered on as Guiaquil Zana Truxillo and others At last Truxillo was pitched on as the most important therefore the likeliest to make us a Voyage if we could Conquer it which we did not much question though we knew it to be a very populous City But the greatest difficulty was in Landing for Guanchaquo which is the nearest Sea-port to it but 6 miles off is an ill place to Land since sometimes the very Fishermen that live there are not able to go out in 3 or 4 days However the 17th of May in the Afternoon our Men were mustered of both Ships Companies and their Arms proved We were in all 108 Men fit for Service besides the sick and the next day we intended to Sail and take the Wood Prize with us But the next day one of our Men being ashoar betimes on the Island discried three Sail bound to the North-ward two of them without the Island to the Westward the other between it and the Continent We soon got our Anchors up and chased and Captain Eaton who drew the least draught of Water put through between the Westermost Island and the Rocks and went after those two that were without the Islands We in Captain Cook 's Ship went after the other which stood in for the main-Main-Land but we soon fetched her up and having taken her stood in again with her to the Island for we saw that Captain Eaton wanted no help having taken both those that he went after He came in with one of his Prizes but the other was so far to Leeward and so deep that he could not then get her in but he hoped to get her in the next day but being deep laden as designed to go down before the wind to Panama she would not bear Sail. The 19th day she turned all day but got nothing nearer the Island Our Moskito strikers according to their custom went out and struck 6 Turtles for here are indifferent plenty of them These Ships that we took the day before came from Guanchaquo all three laden with Flower bound for Panama Two of them were laden as deep as they could swim the other was not above half laden but was ordered by the Vice-Roy of Lima to sail with the other two or else she should not sail till we were gone out of the Seas for he hoped they might escape us by setting out early In the biggest Ship was a Letter to the President of Panama from the Vice-Roy of Lima assuring him that there were Enemies come into that Sea for which reason he had dispatched these three Ships with Flower that they might not want for Panama is supplied from Peru and desired him to be frugal of it for he knew not when he should send more In this Ship were likewise 7 or 8 Tuns of Marmalate of Quinees and a stately Mule sent to the President and a very large Image of the Virgin Mary in Wood Carved and Painted to adorn a new Church at Panama and sent from Lima by the Vice-Roy for this great Ship came from thence not long before She brought also from Lima 800000 pieces of Eight to carry with her to Panama but while she lay at Guanchaco taking in her lading of Flower the Merchants hearing of Capt. Swan's being at Baldivia ordered the Money ashore again These Prisoners likewise informed us that the Gentlemen Inhabitants of Truxillo were building a Fort at Guanchaco which is the Sea Port for Truxillo close by the Sea purposely to hinder the designs of any that should attempt to land there Upon this news we altered our former resolutions and resolved to go with our three Prizes to the Gallapagos which are a great many large Islands lying some under the Equator others on each side of it I shall here omit the description of Truxillo because in my Appontlix at the latter end of the Book I intend to give a general Relation of most of the Towns of note on this Coast from Baldivia to Panama and from thence towards
California The 19th day in the evening we sailed from the Island Lobos with Captain Eaton in our Company We carried the 3 Flower Prizes with us but our first Prize laden with Timber we left here at an Anchor the Wind was at S. by E. which is the common Trade-Wind here and we steered away N. W. by N. intending to run into the latitude of the Isles Gallapagos and steer off West because we did not know the certain distance and therefore could not shape a direct course to them When we came within 40 minutes of the Equator we steered West having the Wind at South a very moderate gentle Gale It was the 31st day of May when we first had sight of the Islands Gallapagos Some of them appeared on our Weather-bow some on our Lee-bow others right a head We at first sight trimm d our Sails and steered as nigh the Wind as we could striving to get to the Southermost of them but our Prizes being deep laden their Sails but small and thin and a very small Gale they could not keep up with us therefore we likewise edged away again a point from the Wind to keep near them and in the evening the Ship that I was in and Captain Eaton Anchored on the East side of one of the Eastermost Islands a mile from the shore in 16 fathom Water clean white hard Sand. The Gallapagos Islands are a great number of uninhabited Islands lying under and on both sides of the Equator The Eastermost of them are about 110 leagues from the Main They are laid down in the longitude of 181 reaching to the Westward as far as 176 therefore their longitude from England Westward is about 68 degrees But I believe our Hydrographers do not place them far enough to the West-ward The Spaniards who first discovered them and in whose drafts alone they are laid down report them to be a great number stretching North-West from the Line as far as 5 degrees N. but we saw not above 14 or 15. They are some of them 7 or 8 leagues long and 3 or 4 broad They are of a good heighth most of them flat and even on the top 4 or 5 of the Eastermost are rocky barren and hilly producing neither Tree Herb nor Grass but a few Dildoe-trees except by the Sea side The Dildoe-tree is a green prickly shrub that grows about 10 or 12 foot high without either Leaf or Fruit. It is as big as a mans Leg from the root to the top and it is full of sharp prickles growing in thick rows from top to bottom This shrub is fit for no use not so much as to burn Close by the Sea there grows in some places bushes of Burton-wood which is very good firing This sort of Wood grows in many places in the West Indies especially in the Bay of Campeachy and in the Sambaloes I did never see any in these Seas but here There is Water on these barren Islands in ponds and holes among the Rocks Some other of these Islands are mostly plain and low and the Land more fertile producing Trees of divers sorts unknown to us Some of the Westermost of these Islands are 9 or 10 leagues long and 6 or 7 broad the Mould deep and black These produce Trees of great and tall bodies especially Mammee-trees which grow here in great Groves In these large Islands there are some pretty big Rivers and on many of the other lesser Islands there are Brooks of good Water The Spaniards when they first discovered these Islands found multitudes of Guanoes and Land-turtle or Tortoise and named them the Gallapago's Islands I do believe there is no place in the World that is so plentifully stored with these Animals The Guanoes here are as fat and large as any that I ever saw they are so tame that a man may knock down 20 in an hours time with a club The Land-turtle are here so numerous that 5 or 600 men might subsist on them alone for several months without any other sort of Provision They are extraordinary large and fat and so sweet that no Pullet eats more pleasantly One of the largest of these Creatures will weight 150 or 200 weight and some of them are 2 foot or 2 foot 6 inches over the Callapee or Belly I did never see any but at this place that will weigh above 30 pound weight I have heard that at the Isle of St. Lawrence or Madagascar and at the English Forest an Island near it called also Don Mascarin and now possessed by the French there are very large ones but whether so big fat and sweet as these I know not There are 3 or 4 sorts of these Creatures in the West Indies One is called by the Spaniards Hecatee these live most in fresh Water-ponds and seldom come on Land They weigh about 10 or 15 pound they have small Legs and flat Feet and small long Necks Another sort is called Tenapen these are a great deal less than the Hecatee the Shell on their Backs is all carved naturally finely wrought and well clouded the Backs of these are rounder than those before mentioned they are otherwise much of the same form these delight to live in wet swampy places or on the Land near such places Both these sorts are very good Meat They are in great plenty on the Isle of Pines near Cuba there the Spanish Hunters when they meet them in the Woods bring them home to their Huts and mark them by notching their Shells then let them go this they do to have them at hand for they never ramble far from thence When these Hunters return to Cuba after about a Month or six Weeks stay they carry with them 3 or 400 or more of these Creatures to sell for they are very good Meat and every man knows his own by their Marks These Tortoise in the Gallapago's are more like the Hecatee except that as I said before they are much bigger and they have very long small Necks and little Heads There are some green Snakes on these Islands but no other Land Animal that I did ever see There are great plenty of Turtle-Doves so tame that a Man may kill 5 or 6 dozen in a forenoon with a Stick They are somewhat less than a Pigeon and are very good Meat and commonly fat There are good wide Channels between these Islands fit for Ships to pass and in some places shole Water where there grows plenty of Turtle-grass therefore these Islands are plentifully stored with Sea-Turtle of that sort which is called the Green-Turtle I have hitherto deferred the Description of these Creatures therefore I shall give it here There are 4 sorts of Sea-turtle viz. the Trunk-turtle the Loggerhead the Hawksbill and the Green Turtle The Trunk-turtle is commonly bigger than the other their backs are higher and rounder and their flesh rank and not wholsome The Loggerhead is so called because it hath a great Head much bigger than the other sorts their flesh is
Seas is among these Gallapago Islands for here is plenty of Grass There is another sort of Green Turtle in the South Seas which are but small yet pretty sweet These lye Westward on the Coast of Mexico One thing is very strange and remarkable in these Creatures that at the breeding time they leave for 2 or 3 Months their common haunts where they feed most of the Year and resort to other places only to lay their Eggs And 't is not thought that they eat any thing during this Season So that both He 's and She 's grow very lean but the He 's to that degree that none will eat them The most remarkable places that I did ever hear of for their breeding is at an Island in the West Indies called Caimanes and the Isle Ascention in the Western Ocean and when the breeding time is past there are none remaining Doubtless they swim some hundreds of Leagues to come to those two places For it hath been often observed that at Caimanes at the breeding time there are found all those sorts of Turtle before described The South Keys of Cuba are above 40 Leagues from thence which is the nearest place that these Creatures can come from and it is most certain that there could not live so many there as come here in one Season Those that go to lay at Ascention must needs travel much farther for there is no Land nearer it than 300 Leagues And it is certain that these Creatures live always near the shore In the South Sea likewise the Gallapagos is the place where they live the biggest part of the Year yet they go from thence at their Season over to the Main to lay their Eggs which is 100 Leagues the nearest place Altho multitudes of these Turtles go from their common places of feeding and abode to those laying places yet they do not all go And at the time when the Turtlè resort to these places to lay their Eggs they are accompanied with abundance of Fish especially Sharks the places which the Turtle then leave being at that time destitute of Fish which follow the Turtle When the She 's go thus to their places to lay the Male accompany them and never leave them till their return Both Male and Female are Fat the begining of the Season but before they return the Male as I said are so lean that they are not fit to eat but the Female are good to the very last Yet not so Fat as at the beginning of the Season It is reported of these Creatures that they are 9 days engendring and in the Water the Male on the Females back It is observable that the Male while engendring do not easily forsake their Female For I have gone and taken hold of the Male when ingendring and a very bad striker may strike them then for the Male is not shie at all but the Female seeing a Boat when they rise to blow would make her escape but that the Male grasps her with his 2 fore Fins and holds her fast When they are thus coupled it is best to strike the Female first then you are sure of the Male also These Creatures are thought to live to a great Age and it is observed by the Jamaica Turtlers that they are many years before they come to their full growth The air of these Islands is temperate enough considering the Clime Here is constantly a fresh Sea breze all Day and cooling refreshing winds in the Night Therefore the heat is not so violent here as in most places near the Equator The time of the Year for the Rains is in November December and January Then there is oftentimes excessive dark Tempestuous weather mixt with much Thunder and Lightning Sometimes before and after these Months there are moderate refreshing Showers but in May June July and August the weather is alway very fair We staid at one of these Islands which lies under the Equator but one Night because our Prizes could not get into an Anchor We refresht our selves very well both with Land and Sea Turtles and the next day we failed from thence The next Island of the Gallapagos that we came to is but 2 Leagues from this 'T is Rocky and barren like this it is about 5 or 6 Leagues long and 4 broad We Anchored in the Afternoon at the North side of the Island a quarter of a Mile from the shore in 16 fathom water It is steep all round this Island and no Anchoring only at this place Here it is but ordinary riding for the ground is so steep that if an Anchor starts it never holds again and the wind is commonly off from the Land except in the Night when the Land-wind comes more from the West for there it blows right along the shore though but faintly Here is no water but in Ponds and holes of the Rocks That which we first Anchored at hath water on the North end falling down in a stream from high steep Rocks upon the Sandy Bay where it may be taken up As soon as we came to an Anchor we made a Tent ashore for Captain Cook who was sick Here we found the Sea Turtle lying ashore on the Sand this is not customary in the West Indies We turned them on their backs that they might not get away The next day more came up when we found it to be their custom to lye in the Sun so we never took care to turn them afterwards but sent ashore the Cook every morning who kill'd as many as served for the day This custom we observed all the time we lay here feeding sometimes on Land Turtle sometimes on Sea Turtle there being plenty of either sort Captain Davis came hither again a second time and then he went to other Islands on the West side of these There he found such plenty of Land Turtle that he and his Men eat nothing else for 3 Months that he staid there They were so Fat that he saved 60 Jars of Oyl out of those that he spent This Oyl served instead of Butter to eat with Dough-boys or Dumplin's in his return out of these Seas He found very convenient places to Careen and good Channels between the Islands and very good Anchoring in many places There he found also plenty of brooks of good fresh water and fire wood enough there being plenty of Trees fit for many uses Captain Harris one that we shall speak of hereafter came hither likewise and found some Islands that had plenty of Mammee-trees and pretty large Rivers The Sea about these Islands is plentifully stored with Fish such as are at John Fernando's They are both large and Fat and as plentiful here as at John Fernando's Here are particularly abundance of Sharks The North part of this second Isle we anchor'd at lyes 28 minutes North of the Equator I took the heighth of the Sun with an Astrolabe These Isles of the Gallapago's have plenty of Salt We stay'd here but 12 days in which
time we put ashore 5000 packs of flower for a reserve if we should have occasion of any before we left these Seas Here one of our Indian Prisoners informed us that he was born at Ria Lexa and that he would engage to carry us thither He being examin'd of the strength and riches of it satisfy'd the Company so well that they were resolv'd to go thither Having thus concluded the 12th of June we sailed from hence designing to touch at the Island Cocos as well to put ashore some Flower there as to see the Island because it was in our way to Ria Lexa We steer'd North till in Lat. 4. d. 40 min. intending then to steer W. by N. for we expected to have had the Wind at S. by E. or S. S. E. as wo had on the South side of the Equator Thus I had formerly found the Winds near the shore in these latitudes but when we first parted from the Gallapagos we had the Wind at S. and as we sailed farther North we had the Winds at S. by W. then at S. S. W. Winds which we did not expect We thought at first that the Wind would come about again to the South but when we came to sail off West to the Island Cocos we had the Wind at S. W. by S. and could lye but W. by N. Yet we stood that course till we were in the lat 5 d. 40 m. North and then despairing as the Winds were to find the Island Cocos we steer'd over to the Main for had we seen the Island then we could not have fetcht it being so far to the North of it The Island Cocos is so named by the Spaniards because there are abundance of Coco-nut Trees growing on it They are not only in one or two places but grow in great Groves all round the Island by the Sea This is an uninhabited Island it is 7 or 8 leagues round and pretty high in the middle where it is destitute of Trees but looks very green and pleasant with an Herb called by the Spaniards Gramadael It is low Land by the Sea side This Island is in 5 d. 15 m. North of the Equator it is environed with Rocks which makes it almost inaccessible only at the N. E. end there is a small Harbor where Ships may safely enter and ride secure In this Harbour there is a fine Brook of fresh Water running into the Sea This is the account that the Spaniards give of it and I had the same also from Captain Eaton who was there afterward Any who like us had not experienced the nature of the Winds in these parts might reasonably expect that we could have sailed with a flown sheet to Ria Lexa but we found our selves mistaken for as we came nearer the shore we found the winds right in our Teeth but I shall refer my Reader to the Chapter of Winds in the Appendix for a further account of this We had very fair weather and small winds in this Voyage from the Gallapagos and at the beginning of July we fell in with Cape Blanca on the Main of Mexico This is so called from two white Rocks lying off it When we are off at Sea right against the Cape they appear as part of the Cape but being near the shore either to the Eastward or Westward of the Cape they appear like two Ships under sail at first view but coming nearer they are like two high Towers they being small high and steep on all sides and they are about half a mile from the Cape This Cape is in lat 9 d. 56 m. It is about the height of Beachy-head in England on the Coast of Sussex It is a full point with steep Rocks to the Sea The top of it is flat and even for about a mile then it gradually falls away on each side with a gentle descent It appears very pleasant being covered with great lofty Trees From the Cape on the N. W. side the Land runs in N. E. for about 4 leagues making a small Bay called by the Spaniards Caldera A league within Cape Blanco on the N. W. side of it and at the entrance of this Bay there is a small Brook of very good water running into the Sea Here the Land is low making a sadling between two small Hills It is very rich Land producing large tall Trees of many sorts the Mold is black and deep which I have always taken notice of to be a fat foil About a mile from this Brook towards the N. E. the VVood land terminates Here the Savannah land begins and runs some leagues into the Country making many small Hills and Dales These Savannahs are not altogether clear of Trees but are here and there sprinkled with small Groves which render them very delightful The Grass which grows here is very kindly thick and long I have seen none better in the West Indies Toward the bottom of the Bay the Land by the Sea is low and full of Mangroves but farther in the Country the Land is high and mountainous The Mountains are part VVoodland part Savannah The Trees in those VVoods are but small and short and the Mountain Savannahs are cloathed but with indifferent Grass From the bottom of this Bay it is but 14 or 15 leagues to the Lake of Nicaragua on the North-Sea Coast the way between is somewhat Mountanous but most Savannah Captain Cook who was taken sick at John Fernandoes continued so till we came within 2 or 3 leagues of Cape Blanco and then dyed of a sudden tho he seemed that morning to be as likely to live as he had been some weeks before but it is usual with sick men coming from the Sea where they have nothing but the Sea Air to dye off as soon as ever they come within the view of the Land About 4 hours after we all came to an Anchor namely the the Ship that I was in Captain Eaton and the great Meal Prize a league within the Cape right against the Brook of Fresh-water in 14 fathom clean hard Sand. Presently after we came to an Anchor Captain Cook was carried ashore to be buried 12 men carried their Arms to guard those that were ordered to dig the Grave for although we saw no appearance of Inhabitants yet we did not know but the Country might be thick inhabited And before Captain Cook was interrâ—…d 3 Spanish Indians came to the place where our men were digging the Grave and demanded what they were and from whence they came to whom our men answered they came from Lima and were bound to Ria Lexa but that the Captain of one of the Ships dying at Sea obligâ—…d them to come into this place to give him Christian burial The 3 Spanish Indians who were very shy at first began to be more bold and drawing nearer asked many silly questions and our men did not stick to sooth them up with as many falshoods purposely to draw them into their clutches Our men often
or where they gather Vinelloes and in such places where they gather Gold In such places as these the Friers do get a great deal of wealth There was but one of all the Indians on both these Islands that could speak Spanish he could write Spanish also being bred up purposely to keep their Registers and Books of Account he was Secretary to both Islands They had a Casica too a small sort of Magistrate the Indians have amongst themselves but he could neither write nor speak Spanish There are a great many more Islands in this Bay but none inhabited as these There is one pretty large Island belonging to a Nunnery as the Indians told us this was stocked with Bulls and Cows there were 3 or 4 Indians lived there to look after the Cattle for the sake of which we often frequented this Island while we lay in the Bay they are all low Islands except Amapalla and Mangera There are 2 Channels to come into this Gulf one between Point Casivina and Mangera the other between Mangera and Amapalla the latter is the best The Riding place is on the East side of Amapalla right against a spot of low ground for all the Island except this one place is high Land Running in farther Ships may Anchor near the Main on the N. E. side of the Island Amapalla This is the place most frequented by Spaniards it is called the Port of Martin Lopez This Gulf or Lake runs in some leagues beyond all the Islands but it is shole water and not capable of Ships It was into this Gulf that Captain Davis was gone with the two Canoas to endeavour for a Prisoner to gain intelligence if possible before our Ships came in He came the first night to Mangera but for want of a Pilot did not know where to look for the Town In the morning he found a great many Canoas haled up on the Bay and from that Bay found a path which led him and his company to the Town The Indians saw our Ships in the evening coming towards the Island and being before informed of Enemies in the Sea they kept Scouts out all night for fear who seeing Captain Davis coming run into the Town and alarmed all the people When Captain Davis came thither they all run into the Woods The Fryer hapned to be there at this time who being unable to ramble into the Woods fell into Captain Davis's hands There were two Indian Boys with him who were likewise taken Captain Davis went only to get a Prisoner therefore was well satisfy'd with the Fryer and immediately came down to the Sea side He went from thence to the Island Amapalla carrying the Fryer and the two Indian Boys with him These were his Pilots to conduct him to the Landing place where they arrived about noon They made no stay here but left 3 or 4 men to look after the Canoas and Captain Davis with the rest marched to the Town taking the Fryer with them The Town as is before noted is about a mile from the Landing place standing in a plain on the top of the hill having a very steep ascent to go to it All the Indians stood on the top of the hill waiting Captain Davis's coming The Secretary mention'd before had no great kindness for the Spaniards It was he that perswaded the Indians to wait Captain Davis his coming for they were all running into the Woods but he told them that if any of the Spaniards Enemies came thither it was not to hurt them but the Spaniards whose Slaves they were and that their Poverty would protect them This man with the Casica stood more forward than the rest at the bank of the Hill when Captain Davis with his Company appear'd beneath They called out therefore in Spanish demanding of our Men what they were and from whence they came to whom Captain Davis and his Men reply'd they were Biscayers and that they were sent thither by the King of Spain to clear those Seas from Enemies that their Ships were coming into the Gulf to Careen and that they came thither before the Ships to seek a convenient place for it as also to desire the Indians assistance The Secretary who as I said before was the only man that could speak Spanish told them that they were welcome for he had a great respect for any Old Spain Men especially for the Biscayers of whom he had heard a very honourable report therefore he desired them to come up to their Town Captain Davis and his Men immediately ascended the Hill the Frier going before and they were received with a great deal of affection by the Indians The Casica and Secretary embraced Captain Davis and the other Indians received his Men with the like Ceremony These Salutations being ended they all marched towards the Church for that is the place of all publick Meetings and all Plays and Pastimes are acted there also therefore in the Churches belonging to Indian Towns they have all sorts of Vizards and strange antick Dresses both for Men and Women and abundance of Musical Hautboys and Strumstrums The Strumstrum is made somewhat like a Cittern most of those that the Indians use are made of a large Goad cut in the midst and a thin board laid over the hollow and which is fastned to the sides this serves for the belly over which the strings are placed The nights before any Holidays or the nights ensuing are the times when they all meet to make merry Their Mirth consists in singing dancing and sporting in those antick Habits and using as many antick gestures If the Moon shine they use but few Torches if not the Church is full of light They meet at these times all sorts of both Sexes All the Indians that I have been acquainted with who are under the Spaniards seem to be more melancholy than other Indians that are free and at these publick Meetings when they are in the greatest of their jollity their mirth seems to be rather forced than real Their Songs are very melancholy and doleful so is their Musick but whether it be natural to the Indians to be thus melancholy or the effect of their Slavery I am not certain But I have always been prone to believe that they are then only condoling their misfortunes the loss of their Country and Liberties which altho these that are now living do not know nor remember what it was to be free yet there seems to be a deep impression in their thoughts of the Slavery which the Spaniards have brought them under increas'd probably by some Traditions of their ancient freedom Captain Davis intended when they were all in the Church to shut the Doors and then make a bargain with them letting them know what he was and so draw them afterwards by fair means to our assistance the Frier being with him who had also promis'd to engage them to it but before they were all in the Church one of Captain Davis his Men pusht one of
the Indians to hasten him into the Church The Indian immediately ran away and all the rest taking the alarm sprang out of the Church like Deer it was hard to say which was first and Captain Davis who knew nothing of what hapned was left in the Church only with the Fryer When they were all fled Captain Davis his Men fired and kill'd the Secretary and thus our hopes perished by the indiscretion of one foolish fellow In the afternoon the Ships came into the Gulf between Point Casivina and Mangera and anchored near the Island Amapalla on the East side in 10 fathom water clean hard Sand. In the evening Captain Davis and his company came aboard and brought the Fryer with them who told Captain Davis that if the Secretary had not been kill d he could have sent him a Letter by one of the Indians that was taken at Mangera and perswaded him to come to us but now the only way was to send one of those Indians to seek the Casica and that himself would instruct him what to say and did not question but the Casica would come in on his word The next day we sent ashore one of the Indians who before night returned with the Casica and 6 other Indians who remained with us all the time that we staid here These Indians did us good service especially in piloting us to an Island where we kill'd Beef whenever we wanted and for this their service we satisfied them to their hearts content It was at this Island Amapalla that a party of Englishmen and Frenchmen came afterwards and stay'd a great while and at last landed on the Main and marched over Land to the Cape River which disembogues into the North Seas near Cape Gratia Dios and is therefore called the Cape River Near the Head of this River they made Bark-logs which I shall describe in the next Chapter and so went into the North Seas This was the way that Captain Sharp had proposed to go if he had been put to it for this way was partly known to Privateers by the discovery that was made into the Country about 30 years since by a party of Englishmen that went up that River in Canoas about as far as the place where these Frenchmen made their Bark-logs there they landed and marched to a Town called Segevia in the Country They were near a month getting up the River for there are many Cataracts where they were often forced to leave the River and hale their Canoas ashore over the Land till they were past the Cataracts and then launch their Canoas again into the River I have discoursed several Men that were in that Expedition and if I mistake not Captain Sharp was one of them But to return to our Voyage in hand when both our Ships were clean and our Water fill'd Captain Davis and Captain Eaton broke off Consortships Captain Eaton took aboard of his Ships 400 Packs of Flower and sailed out of the Gulf the second day of September CHAP. VI. They depart from Amapalla Tornadoes Cape St. Francisco They meet Captain Eaton and part again Isle of Plata described Another meeting with Capt. Eaton and their final parting Point Sancta Hellena Algatrane a sort of Tar. A Spanish VVreck Cruisings Manta near Cape St. Lorenzo Monte Christo. Cruisings Cape Blanco Payta The Buildings in Peru. The Soil of Peru. Colan Bark-logs described Piura The Road of Payta Lobos de Terra They come again to Lobos de la Mar. The Bay of Guiaquil Isle of Sancta Clara. A rich Spanish Wreck there Cat-fish Point Arena in the Isle Puna The Island described The Palmeto tree Town and Harbour of Puna River of Guiaquil Guiaquil Town Its Commodities Cacao Sarsaparilla Quito cloth Of the City and Gold and Air of Quito They enter the Bay in order to make an attempt on the Town of Guiaquil A great advantage slipt that might have been made of a company of Negroes taken in Guiaquil River They go to Plata again Isle Plata THE third day of September 1684. we sent the Frier ashore and left the Indians in possession of the Prize which we brought in hither though she was still half laden with Flower and we sailed out with the Land Wind passing between Amapalla and Mangera When we were a league out we saw a Canoa coming with Sail and Oars after us therefore we shortened Sail and staid for her She was a Canoa sent by the Governor of St. Michaels Town to our Captain desiring him not to carry away the Frier The Messenger being told that the Frier was set ashore again at Amapalla he returned with joy and we made Sail again having the Wind at W. N. W. We steered towards the Coast of Peru we had Tornadoes every day till we made Cape St. Francisco which from June to November are very common on these Coasts and we had with the Tornadoes very much Thunder Lightning and Rain When the Tornadoes were over the Wind which while they lasted was most from the South East came about again to the West and never failed us till we were in sight of Cape St. Francisco where we found the Wind at South with fair weather This Cape is in lat 01 d. 00 North. It is a high bluff or full point of Land cloathed with tall great Trees Passing by this Point coming from the North you will see a small low Point which you might suppose to be the Cape but you are then past it and presently afterwards it appears with three points The Land in the Country within this Cape is very high and the Mountains commonly appear very black When we came in with this Cape we overtook Captain Eaton plying under the shore he in his passage from Amapalla while he was on that Coast met with such terrible Tornadoes of Thunder and Lightning that as he and all his Men related they had never met with the like in any place They were very much affrighted by them the Air smelling very much of Sulphur and they apprehending themselves in great danger of being burnt by the Lightning He touch'd at the Island Cocos and put ashore 200 Packs of Flower there and loaded his Boat with Coco Nuts and took in fresh water In the evening we separated again from Captain Eaton for he stood off to Sea and we plied up under the shore making our best advantage both of Sea and Land Winds The Sea Winds are here at South the Land Winds at S. S. E. but sometimes when we came abreast of a River we should have the Wind at S. E. The 20th day of September we came to the Island Plata and anchored in 16 fathom We had very good weather from the time that we fell in with Cape St. Francisco and were now fallen in again with the same places from whence I begin the account of this Voyage in the first Chapter having now compast in the whole Continent of the South America The Island Plata as some report
always go before the Wind being unable to ply against it and therefore are fit only for these Seas where the Wind is always in a manner the same not varying above a point or two all the way from Lima till such time as they come into the Bay of Panama and even there they meet with no great Sea but sometimes Northerly winds and then they lower their Sails and drive before it waiting a change All their care then is only to keep off from Shore for they are so made that they cannot sink at Sea These Rafts carry 60 or 70 Tuns of Goods and upwards their Cargo is chiefly Wine Oyl Flower Sugar Quito-cloath Soap Goat-skins drest c. The Float is manag'd usually by 3 or 4 Men who being unable to return with it against the Trade-wind when they come to Panama dispose of the goods and bottom together getting a passage back again for themselves in some Ship or Boat bound to the Port they came from and there they make a new Bark-log for their next Cargo The smaller sort of Bark-logs described before which lye flat on the Water and are used for Fishing or carrying Water to Ships or the like half a Tun or a Tun at a time are more governable than the other tho they have Masts and Sails too With these they go out at night by the help of the Land-wind which is seldom wanting on this Coast and return back in the day time with the Sea-wind This sort of Floats are used in many places both in the East and West Indies On the Coast of Coromandel in the East Indies they call them Catamarans These are but one Log or two sometimes of a sort of light Wood and are made without Sail or Rud der and so small that they carry but one Man whose legs and breech are always in the Water and he manages his Log with a Paddle appearing at a distance like a Man sitting on a Fish's back The Country about Payta is mountainous and barren like all the rest of the Kingdom of Peru. There is no Towns of consequence nearer it than Piura which is a large Town in the Country 40 miles distant It lieth by report of our Spanish Prisoners in a Valley which is watered with a small River that disembogues it self into the Bay of Chirapce in about 7d of North latitude This Bay is nearer to Piura than Payta yet all Goods imported by Sea for Piura are landed at Payta for the Bay of Chirapee is full of dangerous sholes and therefore not frequented by shipping The Road of Payta is one of the best on the Coast of Peru. It is sheltered from the South-west by a point of Land which makes a large Bay and smooth Water for Ships to ride in There is room enough for a good Fleet of Ships and good anchoring in any depth from 6 fathom water to 20 fathom Right against the Town the nearer the Town the shallower the water and the smoother the riding it is clean Sand all over the Bay Most Ships passing either to the North or the South touch at this place for water for tho here is none at the Town yet those Indian Fishermen of Colan will and do supply all Ships very reasonably and good water is much prized on all this Coast through the scarcity of it November the 3d at 6 a clock in the morning our Men landed about 4 miles to the South of the Town and took some Prisoners that were sent thither to watch for fear of us and these Prisoners said that the Governor of Piura came with 100 armed Men to Payta the night before purposely to oppose our landing there if we should attempt it Our Men marched directly to the Fort on the Hill and took it without the loss of one Man Hereupon the Governor of Piura with all his Men and the Inhabitants of the Town ran away as fast as they could Then our Men entered the Town and found it emptied both of Money and Goods there was not so much as a Meal of Victuals left for them The Prisoners told us a Ship had been here a little before and burnt a great Ship in the Road but did not land their Men and that here they put ashore all their Prisoners and Pilots We knew this must be Captain Eaton's Ship which had done this and by these circumstances we supposed he was gone to the East Indies it being always designed by him The Prisoners told us also that since Captain Eaton was here a small Bark had been off the Harbor and taken a pair of Bark-logs a fishing and made the Fishermen bring aboard 20 or 30 Jars of fresh water This we supposed was our Bark that was sent to the Lobos to seek Captain Eaton In the evening we came in with our Ships and anchored before the Town in 10 fathom water near a mile from the shore Here we staid till the sixth day in hopes to get a Ransom for the Town Our Captains demanded 300 Packs of Flower 3000 pound of Sugar 25 Jars of Wine and 1000 Jars of Water to be brought off to us but we got nothing of it Therefore Captain Swan ordered the Town to be fir'd which was presently done Then all our Men came aboard and Captain Swan ordered the Bark which Captain Harris commanded to be burnt because she did not sail well At night when the Land Wind came off we sailed from hence towards Lobos The 10th day in the evening we saw a Sail bearing N. W. by N. as far as we could well discern her on our Deck We immediately chased separating our selves the better to meet her in the night but we mist her Therefore the next morning we again trimb'd sharp and made the best of our way to the Lobos de la Mar. The 14th day we had sight of the Island Lobos de Terra it bore East from us we stood in towards it and betwixt 7 and 8 a clock in the night came to an anchor at the N. E. end of the Island in 14 fathom water This Island at Sea is of an indifferent height and appears like Lobos de la Mar. About a quarter of a mile from the North end there is a great hollow Rock and a good Channel between where there is 7 fathom water The 15th day we went ashore and found abundance of Penguins and Boobies and Seal in great quanties We sent aboard of all these to be drest for we had not tasted any flesh in a great while before therefore some of us did eat very heartily Captain Swan to encourage his Men to eat this course flesh would commend it for extraordinary good food comparing the Seal to roasting Pig the Boobies to Hens and the Penguins to Ducks this he did to train them to live contentedly on course Meat not knowing but we might be forced to make use of such food before we departed out of these Seas for it is generally seen among Privateers that nothing imboldens them
this River Their chiefest employment when they are not at Sea is fishing These men are oblig'd by the Spaniards to keep good watch for Ships that Anchor at Point Arena which as I said before is 7 leagues from the Town Puna The place where they keep this watch is at a Point of Land on the Island Puna that starts out into the Sea from whence they can see all Ships that anchor at Point Arena The Indians come thither in the morning and return at night on Horse-back From this watching point to Point Arena it is 4 leagues all drowned mangrove-Mangrove-land and in the midway between these two Points is another small Point where these Indians are obrig d to keep another Watch when they fear an Enemy The Centinel goes thither in a Canoa in the morning and returns at night for there is no coming thither by Land through that Mangrove marshy ground The middle of the Island Puna is Savannah or pasture There are some ridges of good Woodland which is of a light yellow or sandy mould producing large tall Trees most unknown even to Travellers But there are plenty of Palmeto Trees which because I am acquainted with I shall describe The Palmeto Tree is about the bigness of an ordinary Ash It is about 30 foot high the body streight without any limb or branch or leaf except at the head only where it spreads forth into many small branches not half so big as a mans arm some no bigger than ones finger These branches are about 3 or 4 foot long clear from any knot At the end of the branch there groweth one broad leaf about the bigness of a large Fan. This when it first shoots forth grows in folds like a Fan when it is closed and still as it grows bigger so it opens till it becomes like a Fan spread abroad It is strengthned towards the stalk with many small ribs springing from thence and growing into the leaf which as they grow near the end of the leaf grow thinner and smaller The Leaves that make the brush part of the Flag-brooms which are brought into England grow just in this manner and are indeed a small kind of Palmeto for there are of them of several dimensions In Bermudas and elsewhere they make Hats Baskets Brooms Fans to blow the fire instead of Bellows with many other House-Implements of Palmeto-Leaves On the ridges where these Trees grow the Indians have here and there Plantations of Maiz Yams and Potatoes There are in the Town of Puna about 20 Houses and a small Church The Houses stand all on Posts 10 or 12 foot high with Ladders on the outside to go up into them I did never see the like buildings any where but among the Malayans in the East Indies They are thatched with Palmeto-leaves and their Chambers well boarded in which last they exceed the Malayans The best place for Ships to lye at an anchor is against the middle of the Town There is 5 fathom water within a Cables length of the shore and good soft deep Oaze where ships may careen or hale ashore it flows 15 or 16 foot water up and down From Puna to Guiaquil is reckoned 7 leagues It is one league before you come to the River of Guiaquil s mouth where it is above two mile wide from thence upwards the River lies pretty streight without any considerable turnings Both sides of the River are low swampy Land overgrown with Red Mangroves so that there is no landing Four mile before you come to the Town of Guiaquil there is a low Island standing in the River This Island divides the River into two parts making two very fair Channels for Ships to pass up and down The S. W. Channel is the widest the other is as deep but narrower and narrower yet by reason of many Trees and Bushes which spread over the River both from the Main and from the Island and there are also several great stumps of Trees standing upright in the Water on either side The Island is above a mile long From the upper part of the Island to the Town of Guiaquil is almost a league and near as much from one side of the River to the other In that spacious place Ships of the greatest burthen may ride afloat but the best place for Ships is nearest to that part of the Land where the Town stands and this place is seldom without Ships Guiaquil stands facing the Island close by the River partly on the side and partly at the foot of a gentle Hill declining towards the River by which the lower part of it is often overflown There are two Forts one standing in the low ground the other on the hill This Town makes a very fine prospect it being beautified with several Churches and other good Buildings Here lives a Governor who as I have been informed hath his Patent from the King of Spain Guiaquil may be reckoned one of the chiefest Sea-Ports in the South Seas The Commodities which are exported from hence are Cacao Hides Tallow Sarsaparilla and other Drugs and Woollen Cloath commonly called Cloath of Quito The Cacao grows on both sides of the River above the Town It is a small Nut like the Campeachy Nut I think the smallest of the two they produce as much Cacao here as serves all the Kingdom of Peru and much of it is sent to Acapulco and from thence to the Phillipine Islands Sarsaparilla grows in the Water by the sides of the River as I have been informed The Quito-cloath comes from a rich Town in the Country within land called Quito There is a great deal made both Serges and Broad-cloath This Cloath is not very fine but is worn by the common sort of people throughout the whole Kingdom of Peru. This and all other commodities which come from Quito are shipt off at Guiaquil for other parts and all imported goods for the City of Quito pass by Guiaquil by which it may appear that Guiaquil is a place of no mean trade Quito as I have been informed is a very populous City seated in the heart of the Country It is inhabited partly by Spaniards but the major part of its Inhabitants are Indians under the Spanish Government It is environ'd with Mountains of a vast heighth from whose bowels many great Rivers have their rise These Mountains abound in Gold which by violent rains is wash'd with the Sand into the adjacent Brooks where the Indians resort in Troops washing away the Sand and putting up the Gold-dust in their Calabashes or Gourd Shells But for the manner of gatnering the Gold I refer you to Mr. Waffer's Book Only I shall remark here that Quito is the place in all the Kingdom of Peru that abounds most with this rich Metal as I have been often informed The Country is subject to great Rains and very thick Fogs especially the Valleys For that reason it is very unwholsome and sickly The chiefest Distempers are Fevers violent Head-ach Pains in the Bowels and
never see one Pearl Oyster about them nor any Pearl Oyster Shells but on the other Oysters I have made many a Meal there The northermost Island of all this range is called Pacheca or Pacheque This is but a small Island distant from Panama 11 or 12 leagues The Southermost of them is called St. Pauls Besides these two I know no more that are called by any particular name though there are many that far exceed either of the two in bigness Some of these Islands are planted with Plantains and Bonanas and there are Fields of Rice on others of them The Gentlemen of Panama to whom they belong keep Negroes there to plant weed and husband the Plantations Many of them especially the largest are wholly untill'd yet very good fat Land full of large Trees These unplanted Islands shelter many Runaway Negroes who abscond in the Woods all day and in the night boldly pillage the Plantain Walks Betwixt these Islands and the Main is a Channel of 7 or 8 leagues wide there is good depth of Water and good anchoring all the way The Islands border thick on each other yet they make many small narrow deep Channels fit only for Boats to pass between most of them At the S. E. end about a league from St. Pauls Island there is a good place for Ships to careen or hale ashore It is surrounded with the Land and hath a good deep Channel on the North side to go in at The tide riseth here about 10 foot perpendicular We brought our Ships into this place the 25th day but were forced to tarry for a Spring Tide before we could have Water enough to clean them therefore we first cleaned our Barks that they might cruise before Panama while we lay here The 27th day our Barks being clean we sent them out with 20 Men in each The fourth day after they returned with a Prize laden with Maiz or Indian Corn Salt Beef and Fowls She came from Lavelia and was bound to Panama Lavelia is a Town we once designed to attempt It is pretty large and stands on the Banks of a River on the North side of the Bay of Panama 6 or 7 leagues from the Sea Nata is another such Town standing in a Plain near another branch of the same River In these Towns and some others on the same Coast they breed Hogs Fowls Bulls and Cows and plant Maize purposely for the support of Panama which is supplied with Provision mostly from other Towns and the neighbouring Islands The Beef and Fowl our Men took came to us in a good time for we had eaten but little Flesh since we left the Island Plata The Harbor where we careen'd was incompassed by three Islands and our Ships rode in the middle That on which we haled our Ships ashore was a little Island on the North side of the Harbor The was a fine small sandy Bay but all the rest of the Island was invironed with Rocks on which at low Water we did use to gather Oysters Clams Muscles and Limpits The Clam is a sort of Oyster which grows so fast to the Rock that there is no separating it from thence therefore we did open it where it grows and take out the Meat which is very large fat and sweet Here are a few common Oysters such as we have in England of which sort I have met with none in these Seas but here at Point Garachina at Puna and on the Mexican Coast in the lat of 23 d. North. I have a Manuscript of Mr. Teat Captain Swan's chief Mate which gives an account of Oysters plentifully found in Port St. Julian on the East side and somewhat to the North of the Streights of Magellan but there is no mention made of what Oysters they are Here are some Guanoes but we found no other sort of Land Animal Here are also some Pigeons and Turtle-Doves The rest of the Islands that incompass this Harbor had of all these sorts of Creatures Our Men therefore did every day go over in Canoas to them to fish fowl or hunt for Guanoes but having one Man surprized once by some Spaniards lying there in Ambush and carried off by them to Panama we were after that more cautious of straggling The 14th day of February 1685. we made an end of cleaning our Ship fill'd all our Water and stock'd our selves with Fire-wood The 15th day we went out from among the Islands and anchored in the Channel between them and the Main in 25 fathom Water fast oazy ground The Plate Fleet was not yet arrived therefore we intended to cruise before the City of Panama which is from this place about 25 leagues The next day we sailed towards Panama passing in the Channel between the Kings Islands and the Main It is very pleasant sailing here having the Main on one side which appears in divers forms It is beautified with many small Hills cloathed with Woods of divers sorts of Trees which are always green and flourishing There are some few small high Islands within a league of the Main scattering here and there one These are partly woody partly bare and they as well as the Main appear very pleasant The Kings Islands are on the other side of this Channel and make also a very lovely prospect as you sail by them These as I have already noted are low and flat appearing in several shapes according as they are naturally formed by many small Creeks and Branches of the Sea The 16th day we anchored at Pacheque in 17 fathom Water about a league from the Island and sailed from thence the next day with the Wind at N. N. E. directing our course towards Panama When we came abrest of Old Panama we anchored and sent our Canoa ashore with our Prisoner Don Diego de Pinas with a Letter to the Governor to treat about an Exchange for our Man they had spirited away as I said and another Captain Harris left in the River of St. Maria the year before coming over Land Don Diego was desirous to go on this Errand in the name and with the consent of the rest of our Spanish Prisoners but by some accident he was killed before he got ashore as we heard afterwards Old Panama was formerly a famous place but it was taken by Sir Henry Morgan about the year 1673. and at that time great part of it was burned to ashes and it was never re-edified since New Panama is a very fair City standing close by the Sea about 4 mile from the Ruines of the Old Town It gives name to a large Bay which is famous for a great many navigable Rivers some whereof are very rich in Gold it is also very pleasantly sprinkled with Islands that are not only profitable to their Owners but very delightful to the Passengers and Seamen that sail by them some of which I have already described It is incompassed on the backside with a pleasant Country which is full of small Hills and Valleys beautified with
and small The Hill Petaplan A poor Indian Village Jew fish Chequetan a good Harbour Estapa Muscles there A Caravan of Mules taken A Hill near Thelupan The Coast here abouts The Volcan Town Valley and Bay of Colima Sallagua Port. Oarrha Ragged Hills Coronada or the Crown-Land Cape Corrientes Isles of Chametly The City Purification Valderas or the Valley of Flags They miss their design on this Coast. Captain Townly leaves them with the Darien Indians The Point and Isles of Pontique Other Isles of Chametly The Penguin fruit the yellow and the red Seals here Of the River of Cullacan and the Trade of a Town there with California Massaclan River and Town of Rosario Caput Cavalli and another Hill The difficulty of Intelligence on this Coast. The River of Oleta River of St. Jago Maxentelba Rock and Zelisco Hill Sancta Pechaque Town in the River of St. Jago Of Compostella Many of them cut off at Sancta Pecaque Of California whether an Island or not and of the North West and North East Passage A Method proposed for Discovery of the North West and North East Passages Isle of Santa Maria. A prickly Plant. Captain Swan proposes a Voyage to the East Indies Valley of Balderas again and Cape Corrientes The reason of their ill Success on the Mexican Coast and Departure thence for the East Indies IT was the 12th of October 1685 when we set out of the Harbour of Guatulco with our Ships The Land here lies along West and a little Southerly for about 20 or 30 leagues and the Sea Winds are commonly at W. S. W. sometimes at S. W. the Land Winds at N. We had now fair weather and but little Wind. We coasted along to the Westward keeping as near the shore as we could for the benefit of the Land Winds for the Sea Winds were right against us and we found a current setting to the Eastward which kept us back and obliged us to anchor at the Island Sacrificio which is a small green Island about half a mile long It lieth about a league to the West of Guatulco and about half a mile from the Main There seems to be a fine Bay to the West of the Island but it is full of Rocks The best riding is between the Island and the Main there you will have 5 or 6 fathom Water Here runs a pretty strong tide the Sea riseth and falleth 5 or 6 foot up and down The 18th day we sailed from hence coasting to the Westward after our Canoas We kept near the shore which was all sandy Bays the Country pretty high and woody and a great Sea tumbling in upon the shore The 22d day 2 of our Canoas came aboard and told us they had been a great way to the Westward but could not find Port Angels They had attempted to land the day before at a place where they saw a great many Bulls and Cows feeding in hopes to get some of them but the Sea run so high that they over-set both Canoas and wet all their Arms and lost 4 Guns and had one Man drown'd and with much ado got off again They could give no account of the other 2 Canoas for they lost company the first night that they went from Guatulco and had not seen them since We were now abrest of Port Angels though our men in the Canoas did not know it therefore we went in and anchored there This is a broad open Bay with 2 or 3 Rocks at the West side Here is good anchoring all over the Bay in 30 or 20 or 12 fathom Water but you must ride open to all Winds except the Land Winds till you come into 12 or 13 fathom Water then you are sheltered from the W. S. W. which are the common Trade Winds The Tide riseth here about 5 foot the Flood sets to the N. E. and the Ebb to the S. W. The landing in this Bay is bad the place of landing is close by the West side behind a few Rocks here always goes a great swell The Spaniards compare this Harbour for goodness to Guatulco but there is a great difference between them For Guatulco is almost Landlocked and this is an open road and no one would easily know it by their Character of it but by its marks and its latitude which is 15 d. North. For this reason our Canoas which were sent from Guatulco and ordered to tarry here for us did not know it not thinking this to be that fine Harbour and therefore went farther 2 of them as I said before returned again but the other 2 were not yet come to us The Land that bounds this Harbour is pretty high the Earth sandy and yellow in some places red it is partly Woodland partly Savannahs The Trees in the Woods are large and tall and the Savannahs are plentifully stored with very kindly Grass Two leagues to the East of this place is a Beef Farm belonging to Don Diego de la Rosa. The 23 day we landed about 100 men and marched thither where we found plenty of fat Bulls and Cows feeding in the Savannahs and in the House good store of Salt and Maiz and some Hogs and Cocks and Hens but the owners or overseers were gone We lay here 2 or 3 days feasting on fresh provision but could not contrive to carry any quantity aboard because the way was so long and our men but weak and a great wide River to ford Therefore we return'd again from thence the 26th day and brought every one a little Beef or Pork for the men that stay'd aboard The two nights that we stay'd ashore at this place we heard great droves of Jaccals as we suppos'd them to be barking all night long not far from us None of us saw these but I do verily believe they were Jaccals tho I did never see those Creatures in America nor hear any but at this time We could not think that there were less than 30 or 40 in a company We got aboard in the evening but did not yet hear any news of our two Canoas The 27th day in the morning we sailed from hence with the Land Wind at N. by W. The Sea Wind came about noon at W. S. W. and in the evening we anchored in 16 fathom water by a small rocky Island which lieth about half a mile from the Main and 6 leagues Westward from Port Angels The Spaniards give no account of this Island in their Pilot-book The 28th day we sailed again with the Land Wind in the afternoon the Sea breez blew hard and we sprung our Main Topmast This Coast is full of small Hills and Valleys and a great Sea falls in upon the shore In the night we met with the other 2 of our Canoas that went from us at Guatulco They had been as far as Acapulco to seek Port Angells Coming back from thence they went into a River to get Water and were encounterd by 150 Spaniards yet they fill'd their Water in spight of them but
these are 6 small Islands in lat 23 d. 11 m. a little to the South of the Tropick of Cancer and about 3 leagues from the Main where a Salt-Lake hath its out-let into the Sea These Isles are of an indifferent heighth Some of them have a few shrubby bushes the rest are bare of any sort of Wood. They are rocky round by the Sea only one or two of them have sandy Bays on the North side There is a sort of Fruit growing on these Islands called Penguins and 't is all the Fruit they have The Penguin Fruit is of two sorts the yellow and the red The yellow Penguin grows on a green stem as big as a Man's Arm above a foot high from the ground The leaves of this stalk are half a foot long and an inch broad the edges full of sharp prickles The Fruit grows at the head of the stalk in 2 or 3 great clusters 16 or 20 in a cluster The Fruit is as big as a Pullets Egg of a round form and in colour yellow It has a thick skin or rind and the inside is full of small black seeds mixt among the Fruit. It is a sharp pleasant Fruit. The red Penguin is of the bigness and colour of a small dry Onion and is in shape much like a Nine-pin for it grows not on a stalk or stem as the other but one end on the ground the other standing upright 60 or 70 grow thus together as close as they can stand one by another and all from the same root or cluster of roots These Penguins are encompast or fenced with long leaves about a foot and an half or 2 foot long and prickly like the former and the Fruit too is much alike They are both wholsom and never offend the stomach but those that eat many will find a heat or tickling in their Fundament They grow so plentifully in the Bay of Campeachy that there is no passing for their high prickly leaves There are some Guanoes on these Islands but no other sort of Land Animal The Bays about the Islands are sometimes visited with Seal and this was the first place where I had seen any of these Animals on the North side of the Equator in these Seas For the Fish on this sandy Coast lye most in the Lagunes or Salt-lakes and mouths of Rivers but the Seals come not so much there as I judge for this being no rocky Coast where Fish resort most there seems to be but little food for the Seals unless they will venture upon Cat fish Captain Swan went away from hence with 100 Men in our Canoas to the Northward to seek for the River Coolecan possibly the same with the River of Pastla which some Maps lay down in the Province or Region of Cullacan This River lieth in about 24 d. N. lat We were informed that there is a fair and rich Spanish Town seated on the East side of it with Savannahs about it full of Bulls and Cows and that the Inhabitants of this Town pass over in Boats to the Island California where they fish for Pearl I have been told since by a Spaniard that said he had been at the Island California that there are great plenty of Pearl-Oysters there and that the Native Indians of California near the Pearlfishery are mortal Enemies to the Spaniards Our Canoas were absent 3 or 4 days and said they had been above 30 leagues but found no River that the Land by the Sea was low and all sandy Bay but such a great Sea that there was no landing They met us in their return in the lat 23 d. 30 m. coasting along shore after them towards Cullacan so we returned again to the Eastward This was the farthest that I was to the North on this Coast. 6 or 7 leagues N. N. W. from the Isles of Chametly there is a small narrow entrance into a Lake which runs about 12 leagues Easterly parallel with the shore making many small low Mangrove Islands The mouth of this Lake is in lat about 23 d. 30 m. It is called by the Spaniards Rio de Sal for it is a Salt Lake There is Water enough for Boats and Canoas to enter and smooth landing after you are in On the West side of it there is an House and an Estantion or Farm of large Cattel Our Men went into the Lake and landed and coming to the House found 7 or 8 Bushels of Maiz but the Cattle were driven away by the Spaniards yet there our Men took the Owner of the Estantion and brought him aboard He said that the Beefs were driven a great way into the Country for fear we should kill them While we lay here Captain Swan went into this lake again and landed 150 Men on the N. E. side and marched into the Country About a mile from the landing place as they were entring a dry Salina or Salt-pond they fired at two Indians that crost the way before them one of them being wounded in the thigh fell down and being examined he told our Men that there was an Indian Town 4 or 5 leagues off and that the way which they were going would bring them thither While they were in discourse with the Indian they were attacqued by 100 Spanish Horsemen who came with a design to scare them back but wanted both Arms and Hearts to do it Our Men past on from hence and in their way marched through a Savannah of long dry Grass This the Spaniards set on fire thinking to burn them but that did not hinder our Men from marching forward though it did trouble them a little They rambled for want of Guides all this day and part of the next before they came to the Town the Indian spake of There they found a company of Spaniards and Indians who made head against them but were driven out of the Town after a short dispute Here our Chirurgeon and one Man more were wounded with Arrows but none of the rest were hurt When they came into the Town they found 2 or 3 Indians wounded who told them that the Name of the Town was Massaclan that there were a few Spaniards living in it and the rest were Indians that 5 leagues from this Town there were 2 rich Gold Mines where the Spaniards of Compostella which is the chiefest Town in these parts kept many Slaves and Indians at work for Gold Here our Men lay that night and the next morning packt up all the Maiz that they could find and brought it on their backs to the Canoas and came aboard We lay here till the 2d of February and then Captain Swan went away with about 80 Men to the River Rosario whâ—…re they landed and marched to an Indian Town of the same Name They found it about 9 mile from the Sea the way to it fair and even This was a fine little Town of about 60 or 70 Houses with a fair Church and it was chiefly inhabited with Indians They took Prisoners there which
we came I mean by the North West I know there have been divers attempts made about a North West Passage and all unsuccessful yet I am of opinion that such a Passage may be found All our Countrymen that have gone to discover the N. W. Passage have endeavoured to pass to the Westward beginning their search along Davis's or Hudsons Bay But if I was to go on this Discovery I would go first into the South Seas bend my course from thence along by California and that way seek a Passage back into the West Seas For as others have spent the Summer in first searching on this more known side nearer home and so before they got through the time of the year obliged them to give over their search and provide for a long course back again for fear of being left in the Winter on the contrary I would search first on the less known Coasts of the South Sea side and then as the year past away I should need no retreat for I should come farther into my knowledge if I succeeded in my attempt and should be without that dread and fear which the others must have in passing from the known to the unknown who for ought I know gave over their search just as they were on the point of accomplishing their desires I would take the same method if I was to go to discover the North East Passage I would winter about Japan Corea or the North East part of China and taking the Spring and Summer before me I would make my first Trial on the Coast of Tartary wherein if I succeeded I should come into some known parts and have a great deal of time before me to reach Archangel or some other Port. Captain Wood indeed says this North East Passage is not to be found for Ice but how often do we see that sometimes designs have been given over as impossible and at another time and by other ways those very things have been accomplished But enough of this The next day after that fatal Skirmish near Santa Pecaque Captain Swan ordered all our Water to be fill d and to get ready to sail The 21st day we sailed from hence directing our course towards California we had the Wind at N. W. and W. N. W. a small gale with a great Sea out of the West We past by 3 Islands called the Maria's After we past these Islands we had much Wind at N. N. W. and N. W. and at N. with thick rainy weather We beat till the 6th day of February but it was against a brisk Wind and proved labour in vain For we were now within reach of the Land Trade-wind which was opposite to us but would we go to California upon any Discovery or otherwise we should bear 60 or 70 leagues off from shore where we should avoid the Land-winds and have the benefit of the true Easterly Trade-wind Finding therefore that we got nothing but rather lost ground being then in 21 d. 5 m. N. we steered away more to the Eastward again for the Islands Maria's and the 7th day we came to an anchor at the East end of the middle Island in 8 fathom Water good clean Sand. The Maria's are three uninhabited Islands in lat 21 d. 40 m. they are distant from Cape St. Lucas on California 40 leagues bearing West South West and they are distant from Cape Corrientes 20 leagues bearing upon the same points of the Compass with Cape St. Lucas They stretch N. W. and S. E. about 14 leagues There are 2 or 3 small high Rocks near them The Westermost of them is the biggest Island of the three and they are all three of an indifferent heighth The soil is stony and dry the land in most places is covered with a shrubby sort of Wood very thick and troublesome to pass through In some places there is plenty of straight large Cedars though speaking of the places where I have found Cedars Chap. 3. I forgot to mention this place The Spaniards make mention of them in other places but I speak of those which I have seen All round by the Sea side it is sandy and there is produced a green prickly Plant whose leaves are much like the Penguin-leaf and the root like the root of a Seâ—…pervive but much larger This root being bak d in an Oven is good to eat and the Indians on California as I have been informed have great part of their subsistence from these roots We made an Oven in a sandy Bank and baked of these Roots and I eat of them but none of us greatly cared for them They taste exactly like the Roots of our English Burdocks boil'd of which I have eaten Here are plenty of Guanoes and Raccoons a large sort of Rat and Indian Conies and abundance of large Pigeons and Turtle-Doves The Sea is also pretty well stored with Fish and Turtle or Tortoise and Seal This is the second place on this Coast where I did see any Seal and this place helps to confirm what I have observed that they are seldom seen but where there is plenty of Fish Captain Swan gave the middle Island the Name of Prince George's Island The 8th day we run nearer the Island and anchored in 5 fathom and moored Head and Stern and unrigg d both Ship and Bark in order to careen Here Captain Swan proposed to go into the East Indies Many were well pleased with the Voyage but some thought such was their ignorance that he would carry them out of the world for about 2 thirds of our Men did not think there was any such way to be found but at last he gain'd their consents At our first coming hither we did eat nothing but Seal but after the first 2 or 3 days our Strikers brought aboard Turtle every day on which we fed all the time that we lay here and saved our Maiz for our Voyage Here also we measured all our Maiz and found we had about 80 Bushels This we divided into 3 parts one for the Bark and two for the Ship our Men were divided also 100 men aboard the Ship and 50 aboard the Bark besides 3 or 4 Slaves in each I had been a long time sick of a Dropsy a distemper whereof as I said before many of our men died so here I was laid and covered all but my head in the hot Sand I indured it near half an hour and then was taken out and laid to sweat in a Tent. I did sweat exceedingly while I was in the Sand and I do believe it did me much good for I grew well soon after We staid here till the 26th day and then both Vessels being clean we sailed to the Valley of Balderas to water for we could not do it here now In the wet Season indeed here is Water enough for the Brooks then run down plentifully but now though there was Water yet it was bad filling it being a great way to fetch it from the holes were it lodged The
28th day we anchored in the bottom of the Bay the Valley of Balderas right against the River where we watered before but this River was brackish now in the dry season and therefore we went 2 or 3 leagues nearer Cape Corrientes and anchored by a small round Island not half a mile from the shore The Island is about 4 leagues to the Northward of the Cape and the Brook where we filled our water is just within the Island upon the Main Here our Strikers struck 9 or 10 Jew-fish some we did eat and the rest we salted and the 29th day we fill'd 32 Tuns of very good water Having thus provided our selves we had nothing more to do but to put in execution our intended expedition to the East Indies in hopes of some better success there than we had met with on this little frequented Coast. We came on it full of expectations for besides the richness of the Country and the probability of finding some Sea Ports worth visiting we perswaded our selves that there must needs be Shipping and Trade here and that Acapulco and La Vera Cruz were to the Kingdom of Mexico what Panama and Portobel are to that of Peru viz. Marts for carrying on a constant Commerce between the South and North Seas as indeed they are But whereas we expected that this Commerce should be managed by Sea we found our selves mistaken that of Mexico being almost wholly a Land-trade and managed more by Mules than by Ships So that instead of profit we met with little on this Coast besides fatigues hardships and losses and so were the more easily induced to try what better fortune we might have in the East Indies But to do right to Captain Swan he had no intention to be as a Privateer in the East Indies but as he hath often assured me with his own mouth he resolved to take the first opportunity of returning to England So that he feigned a compliance with some of his men who were bent upon going to cruize at Manila that he might have leisure to take some favourable opportunity of quitting the Privateer Trade CHAP. X. Their Departure from Cape Corrientes for the Ladrone Islands and the East Indies Their Course thither and Accidents by the way with a Table of each days Run c. Of the different accounts of the breadth of these Seas Guam one of the Ladrone Islands The Coco-nut Tree Fruit c. The Toddi or Arack that distils from it with other uses that are made of it Coire Cables The Lime or Crab Limon The Bread fruit The Native Indians of Guam Their Proe's a remarkable sort of Boats and of those used in the East Indies The State of Guam and the Provisions with which they were furnisht there I Have given an account in the last Chapter of the resolutions we took of going over to the East Indies But having more calmly considered on the length of our Voyage from hence to Guam one of the Ladrone Islands which is the first place that we could touch at and there also being not certain to find Provisions most of our men were almost daunted at the thoughts of it for we had not 60 days Provision at a little more than half a pint of Maiz a day for each man and no other Provision except 3 Meals of salted Jew-fish and we had a great many Rats aboard which we could not hinder from eating part of our Maiz. Beside the great distance between Cape Corrientes and Guam which is variously set down The Spaniards who have the greatest reason to know best make it to be between 2300 and 2400 leagues our Books also reckon it differently between 90 and 100 degrees which all comes short indeed of 2000 leagues but even that was a Voyage enough to frighten us considering our scanty Provisions Captain Swan to encourage his men to go with him perswaded them that the English Books did give the best account of the distance his reasons were many although but weak He urged among the rest that Sir Thomas Candish and Sir Francis Drake did run it in less than 50 days and that he did not question but that our Ships were better sailers than those which were built in that age and that he did not doubt to get there in little more than 40 days This being the best time in the year for breezes which undoubtedly is the reason that the Spaniards set out from Acapulco about this time and that although they are 60 days in their Voyage it is because they are great Ships deep laden and very heavy sailers besides they wanting nothing are in no great haste in their way but sail with a great deal of their usual caution And when they come near the Island Guam they lye by in the night for a week before they make Land In prudence we also should have contriv'd to lye by in the night when we came near Land for otherwise we might have run ashore or have outsailed the Islands and lost sight of them before morning But our bold adventurers seldom proceed with such wariness when in any streights But of all Captain Swan's arguments that which prevailed most with them was his promising them as I have said to cruize off the Manila's So he and his men being now agreed and they incouraged with the hope of gain which works its way thro all difficulties we set out from Cape Corrientes March the 31st 1686. We were 2 Ships in Company Captain Swan s Ship and a Bark commanded under Captain Swan by Captain Teat and we were 150 men 100 aboard of the Ship and 50 aboard the Bark beside slaves as I said We had a small Land-wind at E. N. E. which carried us 3 or 4 leagues then the Sea-wind came at W. N. W. a fresh gale so we steered away S. W. By 6 a clock in the evening we were about 9 leagues S. W. from the Cape then we met a Land-wind which blew fresh all night and the next morning about 10 a clock we had the Sea breez at N. N. E. so that at noon we were 30 leagues from the Cape It blew a fresh gale of Wind which carried us off into the true Trade-wind of the difference of which Trade-winds I shall speak in the Chapter of Winds in the Appendix for although the constant Sea breez near the shore is at W. N. W. yet the true Trade off at Sea when you are clear of the Land-winds is at E. N. E. At first we had it at N. N. E. so it came about Northerly and then to the East as we run off At 250 leagues distance from the shore we had it at E. N. E. and there it stood till we came within 40 leagues of Guam When we had eaten up our 3 meals of salted Jew-fish in so many days time we had nothing but our small allowance of Maiz. After the first day of March we made great runs every day having very fair clear weather and a fresh
Canby particularly who hath sailed as a Mate in a great many Voyages from Cape Lopez on the Coast of Guinea to Barbadoes and is much esteem d as a very sensible man hath often told me that he constantly found the distance to be between 60 and 62 degree whereas 't is laid down in 68 69 70 and 72 degrees in the common draughts As to the supposition it self which our Seamen make in the allowing but 60 miles to a degree I am not ignorant how much this hath been canvased of late years especially and that the prevailing opinion hath been that about 70 or upwards should be allowed But till I can see some better grounds for the exactness of these tryals that have been made on Land by Mr. Norwood and others considering the inequality of the Earths surface as well as the obliquity of the way in their allowing for which I am somewhat doubtful of their measures upon the whole matter I cannot but adhere to the general Sea-Calculation confirmed as to the main by daily experience till some more certain estimate shall be made than those hitherto attempted For we find our selves when we sail North or South to be brought to our intended place in a time agreeable enough with what we expect upon the usual supposition making all reasonable allowance for the little unavoidable deviations East or West and there seems no reason why the same estimate should not serve us in crosing the Meridians which we find so true in sailing under them As to this course of ours to Guam particularly we should rather increase than shorten our estimate of the length of it considering that the Easterly Wind and Current being so strong and bearing therefore our Log after us as is usual in such cases should we therefore in casting up the run of the Log make allowance for so much space as the Log it self drove after us which is commonly 3 or 4 miles in 100 in so brisk a gale as this was we must have reckoned more than 125 degrees but in this Voyage we made no such allowance though it be usual to do it so that how much soever this computation of mine exceeds the common Draughts yet is it of the shortest according to our experiment and calculation But to proceed with our Voyage The Island Guam or Guahon as the Native Indians pronounce it is one of the Ladrone Islands belongs to the Spaniards who have a small Fort with 6 Guns in it with a Governour and 20 or 30 Soldiers They keep it for the relief and refreshment of their Philippine Ships that touch here in their way from Acapulco to Manila but the Winds will not so easily let them take this way back again The Spaniards of late have named Guam the Island Maria it is about 12 leagues long and 4 broad lying N. and S. It is pretty high Champion Land The 21st day of May 1686 at 11 a clock in the evening we anchored near the middle of the Island Guam on the West side a mile from the shore At a distance it appears flat and even but coming near it you will find it stands shelving and the East side which is much the highest is fenced with steep Rocks that oppose the violence of the Sea which continually rage against it being driven with the constant Trade-wind and on that side there is no anchoring The West side is pretty low and full of small sandy Bays divided with as many rocky points The Soil of the Island is reddish dry and indifferent fruitful The Fruits are chiesly Rice Pine-apples Water-melons Musk-melons Oranges and Limes Coco-nuts and a sort of Fruit called by us Bread-fruit The Coco-nut Trees grow by the Sea on the Western side in great groves 3 or 4 miles in length and a mile or 2 broad This Tree is in shape like the Cabbage-tree and at a distance they are not to be known each from other only the Coco-nut Tree is fuller of Branches but the Cabbage-tree generally is much higher though the Coco-nut Trees in some places are very high The Nut or Fruit grows at the head of the Tree among the Branches and in clusters 10 or 12 in a cluster The Branch to which they grow is about the bigness of a mans arm and as long running small towards the end It is of a yellow colour full of knots and very tough The Nut is generally bigger than a mans head The outer Rind is near 2 inches thick before you come to the Shell the Shell it self is black thick and very hard The Kernel in some Nuts is near an inch thick sticking to the inside of the Shell clear round leaving a hollow in the middle of it which contains about a pint more or less according to the bigness of the Nut for some are much bigger than others This Cavity is full of sweet delicate wholsom and refreshing Water While the Nut is growing all the inside is full of this Water without any Kernel at all but as the Nut grows towards its maturity the Kernel begins to gather and settle round on the inside of the Shell and is soft like Cream and as the Nut ripens it increaseth in substance and becomes hard The ripe Kernel is sweet enough but very hard to digest therefore seldom eaten except by strangers who know not the effects of it but while it is young and soft like pap some men will eat it scraping it out with a spoon after they have drunk the water that was within it I like the Water best when the Nut is almost ripe for it is then sweetest and briskest When these Nuts are ripe and gathered the outside Rind becomes of a brown rusty colour so that one would think that they were dead and dry yet they will sprout out like Onions after they have been hanging in the Sun 3 or 4 months or thrown about in a House or Ship and if planted afterward in the Earth they will grow up to a Tree Before they thus sprout out there is a small spungy round knob grows in the inside which we call an Apple This at first is no bigger than the top of ones finger but increaseth daily sucking up the Water till it is grown so big as to fill up the Cavity of the Coco-nut and then it begins to sprout forth By this time the Nut that was hard begins to grow oily and soft thereby giving passage to the sprout that springs from the Apple which Nature hath so contrived that it points to the hole in the Shell of which there are 3 till it grows ripe just where it 's fastened by its Stalk to the Tree but one of these holes remains open even when it is ripe through which it creeps and spreads forth its Branches You may let these teeming Nuts sprout out a foot and half or 2 foot high before you plant them for they will grow a great while like an Onion out of their own substance Beside the Liquor or Water in the
largest Apple-trees It hath a spreading head full of branches and dark leaves The Fruit grows on the boughs like Apples it is as big as a Penny Loaf when VVheat is at 5 Shillings the Bushel It is of a round shape and hath a thick tough â—…ind VVhen the Fruit is ripe it is yellow and soft and the taste is sweet and pleasant The Natives of this Island use it for Bread they gather it when full grown while it is green and hard then they bake it in an Oven which scorcheth the rind and makes it black but they scrape off the outside black crust and there remains a tender thin crust and the inside is soft tender and white like the crumb of a Penny Loaf There is neither seed nor stone in the inside but all is of a pure substance like Bread it must be eaten new for if it is kept above 24 hours it becomes dry and eats harsh and choaky but 't is very pleasant before it is too stale This Fruit lasts in season 8 months in the year during which time the Natives eat no other sort of food of Bread kind I did never see of this Fruit any where but here The Natives told us that there is plenty of this Fruit growing on the rest of the Ladrone Islands and I did never hear of any of it any where else They have here some Rice also but the Island being of a dry soil and therefore not very proper for it they do not sow very much Fish is scarce about this Island yet on the Shole that our Bark came over there was great plenty and the Natives commonly go thither to fish The natives of this Island are strong bodied large limb'd and well shap'd They are Copper-coloured like other Indians their hair is black and long their Eyes meanly proportioned they have pretty high Noses their Lips are pretty full and their Teeth indifferent white They are long visaged and stern of countenance yet we found them to be affable and courteous They are many of them troubled with a kind of a Leprosie This distemper is very common at Mindanao therefore I shall speak more of it in my next Chapter They of Guam are otherwise very healthy especially in the dry season but in the wet season which comes in in June and holds till October the air is more thick and unwholsome which occasions Fevers but the rains are not violent nor lasting For the Island lyes so far Westerly from the Philippine Islands or any other Land that the Westerly winds do seldom blow so far and when they do they do not last long but the Easterly Winds do consiantly blow here which are dry and healthy and this Island is found to be very healthful as we were informed while we lay by it The natives are very ingenious beyond any people in making Boats or Proes as they are called in the East Indies and therein they take great delight These are built sharp at both ends the bottom is of one piece made like the bottom of a little Canoa very neatly dug and left of a good substance This bottom part is instead of a Keel It is about 26 or 28 foot long the under part of this Keel is made round but inclining to a wedge and smooth and the upper part is almost flat having a very gentle hollow and is about a foot broad From hence both sides of the Boat are carried up to about 5 foot high with narrow plank not above 4 or 5 inches broad and each end of the Boat turns up round very prettily But what is very singular one side of the Boat is made perpendicular like a Wall while the other side is rounding made as other Vessels are with a pretty full belly Just in the middle it is about 4 or 5 foot broad aloft or more according to the length of the Boat The Mast stands exactly in the middle with a long Yard that peeksup and down like a Mizen-yard One end of it reacheth down to the end or head of the Boat where it is placed in a notch that is made there purposely to receive it and keep it fast The other end hangs over the stern To this yard the sail is fastened At the foot of the sail there is another small yard to keep the sail out square and to roll up the sail on when it blows hard for it serves instead of a reef to take up the sail to what degree they please according to the strength of the Wind. Along the belly-side of the Boat parallel with it at about 6 or 7 foot distance lies another small Boat or Canoa being a Log of very light Wood almost as long as the great Boat but not so wide being not above a foot and an half wide at the upper part and very sharp like a wedge at each end And there are two Bamboas of about 8 or 10 foot long and as big as ones Leg placed over the great Boats side one near each end of it and reaching about 6 or 7 foot from the side of the Boat by the help of which the little Boat is made firm and contiguous to the other These are generally called by the Dutch and by the English from them Outlagers The use of them is to keep the great Boat upright from over-setting because the Wind here being in a manner constantly East or if it were at West it would be the same thing and the Range of these Islands where their business lies to and fro being mostly North and South they turn the flat side of the Boat against the Wind upon which they sail and the belly-side consequently with its little Boat is upon the Lee and the Vessel having a Head at each end so as to sail with either of them foremost indifferently they need not tack or go about as all our Vessels do but each end of the Boat serves either for head or stern as they please When they ply to windward and are minded to go about he that steers bears away a little from the Wind by which means the stern comes to the Wind which is now become the head only by shifting the end of the yard This Boat is steered with a broad Paddle instead of a Rudder I have been the more particular in describing these Boats because I do believe they sail the best of any Boats in the world I did here for my own satisfaction try the swiftness of one of them sailing by our Log we had 12 knots on our reel and she run it all out before the half minute glass was half out which if it had been no more is after the rate of 12 mile an hour but I do believe she would have run 24 mile an hour It was very pleasant to see the little Boat running along so swift by the others side The Native Indians are not less dexterous in managing than in building these Boats By report they will go from hence to another of the Ladrone
Besides these there are an infinite number of small Islands of no account and even the great Islands many of them are without Names or at least so variously set down that I find the same Islands named by divers Names The Island St. John and Mindanao are the Southern-most of all these Islands and are the only Islands in all this Range that are not subject to the Spaniards St. Johns Island is on the East side of the Mindanao and distant from it 3 or 4 leagues It is in lat about 7 or 8 North. This Island is in length about 38 leagues stretching N. N. W. and S. S. E. and it is in breadth about 24 leagues in the middle of the Island The Northermost end is broader and the Southermost is narrower This Island is of a good heighth and is full of many small hills The Land at the South East end where I was ashore is of a black fat mould and the whole Island seems to partake of the same fatness by the vast number of large Trees that it produceth for it looks all over like one great Grove As we were passing by the S. E. end we saw a Canoa of the Natives under the shore therefore one of our Canoas went after to have spoken with her but she run away from us seeing themselves chaced put their Canoa ashore leaving her fled into the Woods nor would be allured to come to us altho we did what we could to entice them besides these Men we saw no more here nor sign of any Inhabitants at this end When we came aboard our Ship again we steered away for the Island Mindanao which was now fair in sight of us it being about 10 leagues distant from this part of St. Johns The 22d day we came within a league of the East side of the Island Mindanao and having the Wind at S. E. we steered toward the North end keeping on the East side till we came into the lat of 7d 40 m. and there we anchored in a small Bay about a mile from the shore in 10 fathom Water rocky foul ground Some of our Books gave us an account that Mindanao City and Isle lies in 7d 40 m. we guest that the middle of the Island might lye in this lat but we were at a great loss where to find the City whether on the East or West side Indeed had it been a small Island lying open to the Eastern Wind we might probably have searched first on the West side for commonly the Islands within the Tropicks or within the bounds of the Trade-Winds have their Harbours on the West sido as best sheltered but the Island Mindanao being guarded on the East side by St. Johns Island we might as reasonably expect to find the Harbour and City on this side as any where else but coming into the lat in which we judg'd the City might be found no Canoas or People that might give as any umbrage of a City or place of Trade near at hand though we coasted within a league of the shore The Island Mindanao is the biggest of all the Philippine Islands except Luconia It is about 60 leagues long and 40 or 50 broad The South end is in about 5 d. N. and the N. W. end reacheth almost to 8 d. N. It is a very mountainous Island full of Hills and Valleys The Mould in general is deep and black and extraordinary fat and fruitful The sides of the Hills are stony yet productive enough of very large tall Trees In the heart of the Country there are some Mountains that yield good Gold The Valleys are well moistned with pleasant Brooks and small Rivers of delicate Water and have Trees of divers sorts flourishing and green all the year The Trees in general are very large and most of them are of kinds unknown to us There is one sort which deserves particular notice called by the Natives Libby Trees These grow wild in great Groves of 5 or 6 mile long by the sides of the Rivers Of these Trees Sago is made which the poor Country People eat instead of Bread 3 or 4 months in the year This Tree for its body and shape is much like the Palmeto tree or the Cabbage tree but not so tall as the latter The Bark and Wood is hard and thin like a Shell and full of white Pith like the Pith of an Elder This Tree they cut down and split it in the middle and scrape out all the Pith which they beat lustily with a wooden Pestle in a great Mortar or Trough and then put into a Cloth or Strainer held over a Trough and pouring Water in among the Pith they stir it about in the Cloth so the Water carries all the substance of the Pith through the Cloth down into the Trough leaving nothing in the Cloth but a light sort of Husk which they throw away but that which falls into the Trough settles in a short time to the bottom like Mud and then they draw off the Water and take up the muddy substance wherewith they make Cakes which being baked proves very good Bread The Mindanao People live 3 or 4 months of the year on this food for their Bread kind The Native Indians of Teranate and Tidore and all the Spice Islands have plenty of these Trees and use them for food in the same manner as I have been inform'd by Mr. Caril Rofy who is now Commander of one of the Kings Ships He was one of our company at this time and being left with Captain Swan at Mindanao went afterwards to Teranate and lived there among the Dutch a year or two The Sago which is transported into other parts of the East Indies is dried in small pieces like little Seeds or Comfits and commonly eaten with Milk of Almonds by those that are troubled with the Flux for it is a great binder and very good in that distemper In some places of Mindanao there is plenty of Rice but in the hilly Land they plant Yams Potatoes and Pumkins all which thrive very well The other Fruits of this Island are Water-Melons Musk-Melons Plantains Bonanoes Guava's Nutmegs Cloves Betel-nuts Durians Jacks or Jaca's Coco-nuts Oranges c. The Plantain I take to be the King of all Fruit not except the Coco it self The Tree that bears this Fruit is about 3 foot or 3 foot and an half round and about 10 or 12 foot high These Trees are not raised from seed for they seem not to have any but from the roots of other old Trees If these young suckers are taken out of the ground and planted in another place it will be 15 months before they bear but if let stand in their own native Soil they will bear in 12 months As soon as the Fruit is ripe the Tree decays but then there are many young ones growing up to supply its place When this Tree first springs out of the ground it comes up with 2 leaves and by that time it is a foot
the Spice into their own hands There was another opportunity offered us here of settling on another Spice Island that was very well inhabited for the Inhabitants fearing the Dutch and understanding that the English were settling at Mindanao their Sultan sent his Nephew to Mindanao while we were there to invite us thither Captain Swan conferr'd with him about it divers times and I do believe he had some inclination to accept the offer and I am sure most of the men were for it but this never came to a head for want of a true understanding between Captain Swan and his Men as may be declared hereafter Beside the benefit which might accrue from this Trade with Meangis and other the Spice Islands the Philippine Islands themselves by a little care and industry might have afforded us a very beneficial Trade and all these Trades might have been managed from Mindanao by settling there first For that Island lyeth very convenient for Trading either to the Spice Islands or to the rest of the Philippine Islands since as its Soil is much of the same nature with either of them so it lies as it were in the Center of the Gold and Spice Trade in these parts the Islands North of Mindanao abounding most in Gold and those South of Meangis in Spice As the Island Mindanao lies very convenient for Trade so considering its distance the way thither may not be over long and tiresome The course that I would choose should be to set out of England about the latter end of August and to pass round Terra del Fuego and so stretching over towards New Holland coast it along that shore till I came near to Mindanao or first I would coast down near the American shore as far as I found convenient and then direct my course accordingly for the Island By this I should avoid coming near any of the Dutch settlements and be sure to meet always with a constant brisk Easterly Trade Wind after I was once past Terra del Fuego Whereas in passing about the Cape of Good Hope after you are shot over the East Indian Ocean and are come to the Islands you must past thro the Streights of Malacca or Sundy or else some other Streights East from Java where you will be sure to meet with Counter-winds go on which side of the Equator you please and this would require ordinarily 7 or 8 months for the Voyage but the other I should hope to perform in 6 or 7 at most In your return from thence also you must observe the same Rule as the Spaniards do in going from Manila to Acapulco only as they run towards the North Pole for variable Winds so you must run to the South-ward till you meet with a Wind that will carry you over to Terra del Fuego There are places enough to touch at for Refreshments either going or coming You may touch going thither on either side of Terra Patagonica or if you please at the Gallapagoes Islands where there is Refreshment enough and returning you may probably touch somewhere on New Holland and so make some profitable discovery in these places without going out of your way And to speak my thoughts freely I believe 't is owing to the neglect of this easy way that all that vast Tract of Terra Australis which bounds the South Sea is yet undiscovered those that cross that Sea seeming to design some business on the Peruvian or Mexican Coast and so leaving that at a distance To confirm which I shall add what Captain Davis told me lately that after his Departure from us at the Haven of Ria Lexa as is mentioned in the 8th Chap. he went after several Traverses to the Gallapagoes and that standing thence Southward for Wind to bring him about Terra del Fuego in the Lat. of 27 South about 500 leagues from Copayapo on the Coast of Chili he saw a small sandy Island just by him and that they saw to the Westward of it a long tract of pretty high Land tending away toward the North West out of sight This might probably be the Coast of Terra Australis Incognita But to return to Mindanao as to the capacity we were then in of setting our selves at Mindanao although we were not sent out of any such design of settling yet we were as well provided or better considering all circumstances than if we had For there was scarce any useful Trade but some or others of us understood it We had Sawyers Carpenters Joyners Brickmakers Bricklayers Shoemakers Taylors c. we only wanted a good Smith for great work which we might have had at Mindanao We were very well provided with Iron Lead and all sorts of Tools as Saws Axes Hammers c. We had Powder and Shot enough and very good small Arms. If we had designed to build a Fort we could have spared 8 or 10 Guns out of our Ship and Men enough to have managed it and any affair of Trade beside We had also a great advantage above raw Men that are sent out of England into these places who proceed usually too cautiously coldly and formerly to compass any considerable design which Experience better teaches than any Rules whatsoever besides the danger of their Lives in so great and sudden a a change of Air whereas we were all inured to hot Climates hardned by many fatigues and in general daring Men and such as would not be easily baffled To add one thing more our Men were almost tired and began to desire a quietus est and therefore they would gladly have seated themselves any where We had a good Ship too and enough of us beside what might have been spared to manage our new Settlement to bring the News with the effects to the Owners in England for Captain Swan had already 5000 l. in Gold which he and his Merchants received for goods sold mostly to Captain Harris and his men which if he had laid but part of it out in Spice as probably he might have done would have satisfy'd the Merchants to their hearts content So much by way of digression To proceed therefore with our first Reception at Mindanao Raja Laut and his Nephew sat still in their Canoa and would not come aboard us because as they said they had no orders for it from the Sultan After about half an hours discourse they took their leaves first inviting Captain Swan ashore and promising him to assist him in getting provision which they said at present was scarce but in 3 or 4 months time the Rice would be gathered in and then he might have as much as he pleased and that in the mean time he might secure his Ship in some convenient place for fear of the Westerly winds which they said would be very violent at the latter end of this month and all the next as we found them We did not know the quality of these two persons till after they were gone else we should have fir'd some Guns
for the Europeans coming Eastward by the Cape of Good Hope in a course contrary to the Sun and us where-ever we met they were a full day before us in their Accounts So among the Indian Mahometans here their Friday the day of their Sultans going to their Mosques was Thursday with us though it were Friday also with those who came Eastward from Europe Yet at the Ladrone Islands we found the Spaniards of Guam keeping the same computation with our selves the reason of which I take to be that they settled that Colony by a course Westward from Spain the Spaniards going first to America and thence to the Ladrones and Philippines But how the reckoning was at Manila and the rest of the Spanish Colonies in the Philippine Islands I know not whether they keep it as they brought it or corrected it by the Accounts of the Natives and of the Portuguese Dutch and English coming the contrary way from Europe One great reason why Seamen ought to keep the difference of time as exact as they can is that they may be the more exact in their Lo ngitude For our Tables of the Suns declination being calculated for the Meridians of the places in which they were made differ about 12 minutes from those parts of the World that lie on their opposite Meridians in the months of March and September and in proportion to the Suns declination at other times of the year also And should they run farther as we did the difference would still increase upon them and be an occasion of great errours Yet even able Seamen in these Voyages are hardly made sensible of this tho so necessary to be observed for want of duly attending to the reason of it as it happened among those of our crew who after we had past 180 degrees began to decrease the difference of declination whereas they ought still to have increased it for it all the way increased upon us We had the Wind at N. N. E. fair clear Weather and a brisk gale We coasted to the West-ward on the South side of the Island Mindanao keeping within 4 or 5 leagues of the shore The Land from hence trends away W. by S. It is of a good heighth by the Sea and very Woody and in the Country we say high Hills The next day we were abrest off Chambongo a Town in this Island and 30 leagues from the River of Mindanao Here is said to be a good Harbour and a great settlement with plenty of Beef and Buffaloe It is reported that the Spaniards were formerly fortified here also There are 2 shoals lie off this place 2 or 3 leagues from the shore From hence the Land is more low and even yet there are some Hills in the Country About 6 leagues before we came to the West end of the Island Mindanao we fell in with a great many small low Islands or Keys and about 2 or 3 leagues to the Southward of these Keys there is a long Island stretching N. E. and S. W. about 12 leagues This Island is low by the Sea on the North side and has a ridge of Hills in the middle running from one end to the other Between this Island and the small Keys there is a good large Channel Among the Keys also there is good depth of Water and a violent Tide but on what point of the compass it flows I know not nor how much it riseth and falls The 17th day we anchored on the East side of all these Keys in 8 fathom water clean Sand. Here are plenty of green Turtle whose flesh is as sweet as any in the West Indies but they are very shy A little to the Westward of these Keys on the Island Mindanan we saw abundance of Coco-nut Trees Therefore we sent our Canoa ashore thinking to find Inhabitants but found none nor sign of any but great tracks of Hogs and great Cattle and close by the Sea there were the ruins of an old Fort. The Walls thereof were of a good heighth built with Stone and Lime and by the Wokrmanship seem'd to be Spanish From this place the Land trends W. N. W. and is of an indifferent heighth by the Sea It run on this point of the Compass 4 or 5 leagues and then the Land trends away N. N. W. 5 or 6 leagues farther making with many bluff points We weigh'd again the 14th day and went thro between the Keys but met such uncertain Tydes that we were forced to anchor again The 22d day we got about the Westermost point of all Mindanao and stood to the Northward plying under the shore and having the Wind at N. N. E. a fresh gale As we sailed along further we found the Land to trend N. N. E. On this part of the Island the Land is high by the Sea with full bluff points and very Woody There are some small sandy Bays which afford streams of fresh Water Here we met with two Proe's belonging to the 〈◊〉 one of the Mindanaian Nations before mentioned They came from Manila laden with Silks and Calicoes We kept on this Western part of the Island steering Northerly till we came abrest of some other of the Philippine Islands that lay to the Northward of us then steered away towards them but still keeping on the West side of them and we had the Winds at N. N. E. The 3d of February we anchored in a good bay on the West side of an Island in lat 9 d. 55 m. where we had 13 fathom Water good soft oaze This Island hath no name that we could find in any book but lieth on the West side of Island Sebo It is about 8 or 10 leagues long Mountainous and Woody At this place Captain Read who was the same Captain Swan had so much railed against in his Journal and was now made Captain in his room as Captain Teat was made Master and Mr. Henry More Quartermaster ordered the Carpenters to cut down our Quarter Deck to make the Ship snug and the fitter for sailing When that was done we heeled her scrubbed her bottom and tallowed it Then we fill'd all our Water for here is a delicate small run of Water The Land was pretty low in this Bay the Mould black and fat and the Trees of several kinds very thick and tall In some places we found plenty of Canes such as we use in England for Walking-canes These were short jointed not above two foot and a half or two foot ten inches the longest and most of them not above two foot They run along on the ground like a Vine or taking hold of the Trees they climb up to their very tops They are 15 or 20 fathom long and much of a bigness from the root till within 5 or 6 fathom of the end They are of a pale green colour cloathed over with a coat of a short thick hairy substance of a dun colour but it comes off by only drawing the Cane thro your hand We did cut many of them
and they proved very tough heavy Canes We saw no Houses nor sign of Inhabitants but while we lay here there was a Canoa with 6 men came into this Bay but whether they were bound or from whence they came I know not They were Indians and we could not understand them In the middle of this Bay about a mile from the shore there is small low woody Island not above a mile in circumference our Ship rode about a mile from it This Island was the habitation of an incredible number of great Batts with bodies as big as Ducks or larger Fowl and with vast Wings For I saw at Mindanao one of this sort and I judge that the Wings stretcht out in length could not be less asunder than 7 or 8 foot from tip to tip for it was much more than any of us could fathom with our Arms extended to the utmost The Wings are for substance like those of other Batts of a dun or mouse colour The Skin or Leather of them hath Ribs running along it and draws up in 3 or 4 folds and at the joints of those Ribs and the extremities of the Wings there are sharp crooked Claws by which they may hang on any thing In the evening as soon as the Sun was set these Creatures would begin to take their flight from this Island in swarms like Bees directing their flight over to the main Island and whether afterwards I know not Thus we should see them rising up from the Island till night hindred our sight and in the morning as soon as it was light we should see them returning again like a Cloud to the small Island till Sun rising This course they kept constantly while we lay here affording us every morning and evening an hours diversion in gazing at them and talking about them but our curiosity did not prevail with us to go ashore to them our selves and Canoas being all the day time taken up in business about our Ship At this Isle also we found plenty of Turtle and Manatee but no Fish We stay'd here till the 10th of February 1687 and then having compleated our business we sailed hence with the Wind at North. But going out we struck on a Rock where we lay two hours It was very smooth Water and the Tide of flood or else we should there have lost our Ship We struck off a great piece of our Rudder which was all the damage that we received but we more narrowly mist losing our Ship this time than in any other in the whole Voyage This is a very dangerous Shoal because it does not break unless probably it may appear in foul weather It lies about two mile to the Westward without the small Batt Island Here we found the Tide of flood setting to the Southward and the Ebb to the Northward After we were past this Shoal we coasted along by the rest of the Philippine Islands keeping on the West side of them Some of them appeared to be very Mountainous dry Land We saw many fires in the night as we passed by Panay a great Island settled by Spaniards and by the fires up and down it seems to be well settled by them for this is a Spanish custom whereby they give notice of any danger or the like from Sea and 't is probable they had seen our Ship the day before This is an unfrequented Coast and 't is rare to have any Ship seen there We touched not at Panay nor any where else tho we saw a great many small Islands to the Westward of us and some Shoals but none of them laid down in our draughts The 18th day of Feb. we anchored at the N. W. end of the Island Mindora in 10 fathom Water about 3 quarters of a mile from the shore Mindora is a large Island the middle of it lying in lat 13 about 40 leagues long stretching N. W. and S. E. It is high and Mountainous and not very woody At this place where we anchored the Land was neither very high nor low There was a small Brook of Water and the Land by the Sea was very woody and the Trees high and tall but a league or two farther in the Woods are very thin and small Here we saw great tracks of Hogs and Beef and we saw some of each and hunted them but they were wild and we could kill none While we were here there was a Canoa with 4 Indians came from Manila They were very shie of us a while but at last hearing us speak Spanish they came to us and told us that they were going to a Frier that liv'd at an Indian Village towards the S. E. end of the Island They told us also that the Harbour of Manila is seldom or never without 20 or 30 Sail of Vessels most Chinese some Portugueze and some few the Spaniards have of their own They said that when they had done their business with the Frier they would return to Manila and hoped to be back again at this place in 4 days time We told them that we came for a Trade with the Spaniards at Manila and should be glad if they would carry a Letter to some Merchant there which they promised to do But this was only a pretence of ours to get out of them what intelligence we could as to their Shipping Strength and the like under colour of seeking a Trade for our business was to pillage Now if we had really designed to have traded here this was as fair an opportunity as Men could have desired for these men could have brought us to the Frier that they were going to and a small Present to him would have engaged him to do any kindness for us in the way of Trade for the Spanish Governors do not allow of it and we must Trade by stealth The 21st day we went from hence with the wind at E. N. E. a small gale The 23d day in the morning we were fair by the S. E. end of the Island Luconia the place that had been so long desired by us We presently saw a Sail coming from the Northward and making after her we took her in 2 hours time She was a Spanish Bark that came from a place called Pangasanam a small Town on the N. end of Luconia as they told us probably the same with Pongassinay which lies on a Bay at the N. W. side of the Island She was bound to Manila but had no Goods aboard and therefore we turned her away The 23d we took another Spanish Vessel that came from the same place as the other She was laden with Rice and Cotton-cloath and bound for Manila also These Goods were purposely for the Acapulco Ship the Rice was for the Men to live on while they lay there and in their return and the Cotton-cloath was to make Sails The Master of this Prize was Boatswain of the Acapulco Ship which escaped us at Guam and was now at Manila It was this Man that gave us the relation of what
for a place to careen in and the 16th day we entered the Harbour and immediately provided to careen Some Men were set to fell great Trees to saw into Plank others went to unrigging the Ship some made a House to put our Goods in and for the Sailmaker to work in The Country People resorted to us and brought us of the fruits of the Island with Hogs and sometimes Turtle for which they received Rice in exchange which we had a Ship load of taken at Manila We bought of them also a good quantity of their pitchy Liquor which we boyled and used about our Ships bottom We mixed it first with Lime which we made here and it made an excellent coat and stuck on very well We staid in this Harbour from the 16th day of March tiil the 16th day of April in which time we made a new Suit of Sails of the Cloath that was taken in the Prize We cut a spare Main-top-mast and sawed Plank to sheath the Ships bottom for she was not sheathed all over at Mindanao and that old Plank that was left on then we now ript off and clapt on new While we lay here 2 of our men dyed who were poysoned at Mindanao they told us of it when they found themselves poyson'd and had lingred ever since They were open d by our Doctor according to their own request before they dyed and their Livers were black light and dry like pieces of Cork Our business being finished here we left the Spanish Prize taken at Manila and most of the Rice taking out enough for our selves and on the 17th day we went from hence to the place where we first Anchored on the North side of the great Island purposely to water for there was a great stream when we first came to the Island and we thought it was so now But we found it dryed up only it stood in holes 2 or 3 Hogsheads or a Tun in a hole Therefore we did immediately cut Bamboos and made Spouts through which we conveyed the Water down to the Sea-side by taking it up in Bowls and pouring it into these Spouts or Troughs We conveyed some of it thus near half a mile While we were filling our Water Captain Read engaged an old man one of the Inhabitants of this Island the same who I said could speak the Malayan Language to be his Pilot to the Bay of Siam for he had often been telling us that he was well acquainted there and that he knew some Islands there where there were Fishermen lived who he thought could supply us with Salt-fish to eat at Sea for we had nothing but Rice to eat The Easterly Monsoon was not yet done therefore it was concluded to spend some time there and then take the advantage of the beginning of the Western Monsoon to return to Manila again The 21st day of April 1687 we sailed from Pulo Condore directing our course W. by S. for the Bay of Siam We had fair weather and a fine moderate gale of Wind at E. N. E. The 23d day we arrived at Pulo Uby or the Island Uby This Island is about 40 leagues to the Westward of Pulo Condore it lies just at the entrance of the Bay of Siam at the S. W. point of Land that makes the Bay namely the point of Cambodia This Island is about 7 or 8 leagues round and it is higher Land than any of Pulo Condore Isles Against the South East part of it there is a small Key about a Cables length from the main Island This Pulo Uby is very woody and it has good Water on the North side where you may anchor but the best anchoring is on the East side against a small Bay then you will have the little Island to the Southward of you At Pulo Uby we found two small Barks laden with Rice They belonged to Cambodia from whence they came not above two or three days before and they touched here to fill Water Rice is the general food of all these Countries therefore it is transported by Sea from one Country to another as Corn is in these parts of the World For in some Countries they produce more than enough for themseves and send what they can spare to those places where there is but little The 24th day we went into the Bay of Slam This is a large deep Bay of which and of this Kingdom I shall at present speak but little because I design a more particular account of all this Coast to wit of Tunquin Cochinchina Siam Champa Cambodia and Malacca making all the most Easterly part of the Continent of Asia lying South of China but to do it in the course of this Voyage would too much swell this Volume and I shall chuse therefore to give a separate relation of what I know or have learnt of them together with the Neighbouring parts of Sumatra Java c. where I have spent some time We run down into the Bay of Siam till we came to the Islands that our Pulo Condore Pilot told us of which lye about the middle of the Bay but as good a Pilot as he was he run us aground yet we had no damage Captain Read went ashore at these Islands where he found a small Town of Fishermen but they had no Fish to sell and so we returned empty We had yet fair weather and very little wind so that being often becalmed we were till the 13th day of May before we got to Pulo Uby again There we found two small Vessels at an anchor on the East side They were laden with Rice and Laquer which is used in Japaning of Cabinets One of these come from Champa bound to the Town of Malacca which belongs to the Dutch who took it from the Portuguese and this shews that they have a Trade with Champa This was a very pretty neat Vessel her bottom very clean and curiously coated she had about 40 men all armed with Cortans or broad Swords Lances and some Guns that went with a swivel upon their Gunnals They were of the Idolaters Natives of Champa and some of the briskest most sociable without fearfulness or shyness and the most neat and dexterous about their Shipping of any such I have met with in all my Travels The other Vessel came from the River of Cambodia and was bound towards the Streights of Malacca Both of them stopt here for the Westerly winds now began to blow which were against them being somewhat belated We anchored also on the East side intending to fill Water While we lay here we had very violent Winds at S. W. and a strong current setting right to Windward The fiercer the Wind blew the more strong the current set against it This storm lasted till the 20th day and then it began to abate The 21st day of May we went back from hence towards Pulo Condore In our way we overtook a great Jonk that came from Palimbam a Town on the Island Sumatra She was full laden with Pepper
which they bought there and was bound to Siam but it blowing so hard she was afraid to venture into that Bay and therefore came to Pulo Condore with us where we both anchored May the 24th This Vessel was of the Chinese make full of little Rooms or partitions like our Well-boats I shall describe them in the next Chapter The men of this Jonk told us that the English were settled on the Island Samatra at a place called Sillabar and the first knowledge we had that the English had any settlement on Samatra was from these When we came to an anchor we saw a small Bark at an anchor near the shore therefore Capthain Read sent a Canoa aboard her to know from whence they came and supposing that it was a Malaya Vessel he ordered the men not to go aboard for they are accounted desperate fellows and their Vessels are commonly full of men who all wear Cressets or little Daggers by their sides The Canoas crew not minding the Captains orders went aboard all but one man that stay'd in the Canoa The Malayans who were about 20 of them seeing our men all armed thought that they came to take their Vessel therefore at once on a signal given they drew out their Cressets and stabbed 5 or 6 of our men before they knew what the matter was The rest of our men leapt over-board some into the Canoa and some into the Sea and so got away Among the rest one Daniel Wallis leapt into the Sea who could never swim before nor since yet now he swam very well a good while before he was taken up When the Canoas came aboard Captain Read manned two Canoas and went to be revenged on the Malayans but they seeing him coming did cut a hole in their Vessels bottom and went ashore in their Boat Captain Read followed them but they run into the Woods and hid themselves Here we stayed ten or eleven days for it blew very hard all the time While we stayed here Herman Coppinger our Surgeon went ashore intending to live here But Captain Read sent some men and fetcht him again I had the same thoughts and would have gone ashore too but waited for a more convenient place For neither he nor I when we went last on board at Mindanao had any knowledge of the Plot that was laid to leave Captain Swan and run away with the Ship and being sufficiently weary of this mad Crew we were willing to give them the slip at any place from whence we might hope to get a passage to an English Factory There was nothing else of moment happened whilst we stayed here CHAP. XV. They leave Pulo Condore designing for Manila but are driven off from thence aad from the Isle of Prata by the Winds and brought upon the Coast of China Isle of St. John on the Coast of the Province of Canton its soil and productions China â—…ogs c. The Inhabitants and of the Tartars forcing the Chinese to cut off their Hair Their Habits and the little Feet of their Women China ware China roots Tea c. A Village at St. John's Island and of the Husbandry of their Rice A story of a Chinese Pagoda or Idol-Temple and Image Of the China Jonks and their Riâ—…ging They leave St. John's and the Coast of China A most outragious Storm Corpus Sant a light or Meteor appearing in Storms The Piscadores or Fishers Islands near Formosa A Tartarian Garrison and Chinese Town on one of these Islands They anchor in the Harbour near the Tartars Garrison and treat with the Governor Of Amoy in the Province of Fokieu and Macao a Chinese and Portuguese Town near Canton in China The Habits of a Tartarian Officer and his Retinue Their presents excellent Beef Samciu a sort of Chinese Arack and Hocciu a kind of Chinese Mum and the Jars it is bottled in Of the Isle of Formosa and the 5 Islands to which they give the Names of Orange Monmouth Grafton Bashee and Goat Islands in general the Bashee Islands A digression concerning the different depths of the Sea near high or low Lands The Soil c. as before The Soil Fruits and Animals of these Islands The Inhabitants and their Cloathing Rings of a yellow Metal like Gold Their Houses built on remarkable precipices Their Boats and Employments Their food of Goat Skins Entrails c. Parcht Locusts Bashee or Sugar-cane drink Of their Language and Original Launces and Buffaloe Coats No Idols nor Civil form of Government A young man buried alive by them supposed to be for Theft Their Wives and Children and Husbandry Their Manners Entertainments and Traffick Of the Ships first Entercourse with these people and bartering with them Their Course among the Islands their stay there and provision to depart They are driven off by a violent Storm and return The Natives kindness to 6 of them left behind The Crew discouraged by those Storms quit their design of Cruising off Manila for the Acapulco Ship and 't is resolved to fetch a Compass to Cape Comorin and so for the Red-Sea HAving fill'd our Water cut our Wood and got our Ship in a sailing posture while the blustring hard Winds lasted we took the first opportunity of a settled gale to sail towards Manila Accordingly June the 4th 1687 we loosed from Pulo Condore with the Wind at S. W. fair weather at a brisk gale The Pepper Jonk bound to Siam remained there waiting for an Easterly wind but one of his men a kind of a bastard Portuguese came aboard our Ship and was entertained for the sake of his knowledge in the several Languages of these Countries The Wind continued in the S. W. but 24 hours or a little more and then came about to the North and then to the N. E. and the Sky became exceeding clear Then the Wind came at East and lasted betwixt E. and S. E. for 8 or 10 days Yet we continued plying to Windward expecting every day a shift of Wind because these Winds were not according to the season of the year We were now afraid lest the Currents might deceive us and carry us on the shoals of Pracel which were near us a little to the N. W. but we passed on to the Eastward without seeing any sign of them yet we were kept much to the Northward of our intended course and the Easterly Winds still continuing we despaired of getting to Manila and therefore began to project some new design and the result was to visit the Island Prata about the Lat. of 20 deg 40 min. North and not far from us at this time It is a small low Island environed with Rocks clear round it by report It lyeth so in the way between Manila and Canton the head of a Province and a Town of great trade in China that the Chinese do dread the Rocks about it more than the Spaniards did formerly dread Bermudas for many of their Jonks coming from Manila have been loft there and with abundance of Treasure
in them as we were informed by all the Spaniards that ever we converst with in these parts They told us also that in these wrecks most of the men were drowned and that the Chinese did never go thither to take up any of the Treasure that was lost there for fear of being lost themselves But the danger of the place did not daunt us for we were resolved to try our fortunes there if the Winds would permit and we did beat for it 5 or 6 days but at last were forced to leave that design also for want of Winds for the S. E. Winds continuing forced us on the Coast of China It was the 25th day of June when we made the Land and running in towards the shore we came to an Anchor the same day on the N. E. end of St. John's Island This Island is in Lat. about 2 d. 30 min. North lying on the S. Coast of the Province of Quantung or Canton in China It is of an indifferent heighth and pretty plain and the Soil fertile enough It is partly woody partly Savannahs or Pasturage for Cattle and there is some moist arable Land for Rice The skirts or outer part of the Island especially that part of it which borders on the main Sea is woody The middle part of it is good thick grassy Pasture with some groves of Trees and that which is cultivated Land is low wet Land yielding plentiful Crops of Rice the only grain that I did see here The tame Cattle which this Island affords are China Hogs Goats Buffaloes and some Buslocks The Hogs of this Island are all black they have but small Heads very short thick Necks great Bellies commonly touching the ground and short Legs They eat but little food yet they are most of them very fat probably because they sleep much The tame Fowls are Ducks and Cocks and Hens I saw no wild Fowl but a few small Birds The Natives of this Island are Chinese They are subject to the Crown of China and consequently at this time to the Tartars The Chinese in general are tall strait-bodied raw boned men They are long Visaged and their Foreheads are high but they have little Eyes Their Noses are pretty large with a rising in the middle Their Mouths are of a mean size pretty thin Lips They are of an ashy complexion their Hair is black and their Beards thin and long for they pluck the hair out by the roots suffering only some few very long straggling Hairs to grow about their Chin in which they take great pride ofren combing them and sometimes tying them up in a knot and they have such Hairs too growing down from each side of their upper Lip like Whiskers The ancient Chinese were very proud of the Hair of their Heads letting it grow very long and stroking it back with their Hands curiously and then winding the plats all together round a Bodkin thrust through it at the hinder part of the Head and both Men and Women did thus But when the Tartars conquer'd them they broke them of this custom they were fond of by main force insomuch that they resented this imposition worse than their subjection and rebelled upon it but being still worried were forc'd to acquiesce and to this day they follow the fashion of their Masters the Tartars and shave all their Heads only reserving one Lock which some tye up others let it hang down to a great or small length as they please The Chinese in other Countries still keep their old custom but if any of the Chinese is found wearing long Hair in China he forfeits his Head and many of them have abandoned their Country to preserve their liberty of wearing their Hair as I have been told by themselves The Chinese have no Hats Caps or Turbans but when they walk abroad they carry a small Umbrello in their hands wherewith they fence their heads from the Sun or the Rain by holding it over their heads If they walk but a little way they carry only a large Fan made of Paper or Silk of the same fashion as those our Ladies have and many of them are brought over hither one of these every man carries in his hand if he do but cross the street skreening his head with it if he hath not an Umbrello with him The common apparrel of the men is a loose Frock and Breeches They seldom wear Stockings but they have Shoes or a sort of Slippers rather The mens Shoes are made diversly The women have very small Feet and consequently but little Shoes for from their Infancy their Feet are kept swathed up with bands as hard as they can possibly endure them and from the time they can go till they have done growing they bind them up every night This they do purposely to hinder them from from growing esteeming little Feet to be a great Beauty But by this unreasonable custom they do in a manner lose the use of their Feet and instead of going they only stumble about their Houses and presently squat down on their Breeches again being as it were confined to sitting all days of their lives They seldom stir abroad and one would be apt to think that as some have conjectured their keeping up their fondness for this fashion were a stratagem of the mens to keep them from gadding and gossipping about and confine them at home They are kept constantly to their work being fine Needle-Women and making many curious Embroideries and they make their own Shoes but if any Stranger be desirous to bring away any for Novelty's sake he must be a great Favourite to get a pair of Shoes of them tho he give twice their value The poorer sort of Women trudge about streets and to the Market without Shoes or Stockings and these cannot afford to have little feet being to get their living with them The Chinese both Men and Women are very ingenious as may appear by the many curious things that are brought from thence especially the Porcelaine or China Earthen Ware The Spaniards of Manila that we took on the Coast of Luconia told me that this Commodity is made of Conch-shells the inside of which looks like Mother of Pearl But the Portuguese lately mentioned who had lived in China and spoke that and the neighbouring Languages very well said that it was made of a fine sort of Clay that was dug in the Province of Canton I have often made enquiry about it but cou'd never be well satisfied in it but while I was on the Coast of Canton I forgot to inquire about it They make very fine Lacquer Ware also and good Silks and they are curious at painting and Carving China affords Drugs in great abundance especially China Root but this is not peculiar to that Country alone for there is much of this Root growing in Jamaica particularly at 16 mile walk and in the Bay of Honduras it is very plentiful There is a great store of Sugar made in this Country and
Besides this present from the Governour there was a Captain of a Jonk sent two Jars of Arack and abundance of Pine-apples and Water-melons Captain Read sent ashore as a Present to the Governour a curious Spanish Silver-hilted Rapier an English Carbine and a Gold Chain and when the Officer went ashore three Guns were fired In the afternoon the Governour sent off the same Officer again to complement the Captain for his civility and promised to retaliate his kindness before we departed but we had such blustring weather afterward that no Boat could come aboard We stayed here till the 29th day and then sailed from hence with the wind at S. W. and pretty fair weather We now directed our course for some Islands we had chosen to go to that lye between Formosa and Luconia They are laid down in our plots without any name only with a figure of 5 denoting the number of them It was supposed by us that these Islands had no Inhabitants because they had not any name by our Hydographers Therefore we thought to lye there secure and be pretty near the Island Luconia which we did still intend to visit In going to them we sailed by the South West end of Formosa leaving it on our larboard side This is a large Island the South end is in lat 21 d. 20 m. and the North end in 25 d. 10 m. North lat the longitude of this Isle is laid down from 142 d. 5 m. to 143 d. 16 m. reckoning East from the pike of Tenariffe so that 't is but narrow and the Tropick of Cancer crosses it It is a high and woody Island and was formerly well inhabited by the Chinese and was then frequently visited by English Merchants there being a very good Harbour to secure their Ships But since the Tartars have conquered China they have spoiled the Harbour as I have been informed to hinder the Chinese that were then in Rebellion from fortifying themselves there and ordered the foreign Merchants to come and trade on the Main The 6th day of August we arrived at the five Islands that we were bound to and anchored on the East side of the Northermost Island in 15 fathom a Cables length from the shore Here contrary to our expectation we found abundance of Inhabitants in sight for there were 3 large Towns all within a league of the Sea and another larger Town than any of the three on the back side of a small hill close by also as we found afterwards These Islands lye in lat 20 d. 20 m. North lat by my observation for I took it there and I find their Longitude according to our Drafts to be 141 d. 50 m. These Islands having no particular Names in the Drafts some or other of us made use of the Seamens priviledge to give them what names we pleased Three of the Islands were pretty large the Westermost is the biggest This the Dutch men who were among us called the Prince of Orange's Island in honour of his present Majesty It is about 7 or 8 leagues long and about 2 leagues wide and it lies almost N. and S. The other two great Islands are about 4 or 5 leagues to the Eastward of this The Northermost of them where we first anchored I called the D. of Grafton's Isle as soon as we landed on it having married my Wife out of his Dutchess's Family and leaving her at Arlington house at my going aboard This Isle is about 4 leagues long and one league and a half wide stretching North and South The other great Isle our Seamen called the Duke of Monmouth's Island This is about a league to the Southward of Grafton Isle It is about 3 leagues long and a league wide lying as the other Between Monmouth and the South end of Orange Island there are two small Islands of a roundish form lying East and West The Eastermost Island of the two our men unanimously called Bashee Island from a Liquor which we drank there plentifully every day after we came to an anchor at it The other which is the smallest of all we called Goat Island from the great number of Goats there and to the Northward of them all are two high Rocks Orange Island which is the biggest of them all is not inhabited It is high Land flat and even on the top with steep cliffs against the Sea for which reason we could not go ashore there as we did on all the rest I have made it my general observation that where the Land is fenced with steep Rocks and Cliffs against the Sea there the Sea is very deep and seldom affords anchor ground and on the other side where the Land falls away with a declivity into the Sea altho the Land be exrraordinary high within yet there are commonly good soundings and consequently anchoring and as the visible declivity of the Land appears near or at the edge of the Water whether pretty steep or more sloping so we commonly find our anchor ground to be more or less deep or steep therefore we came nearer the shore or anchor farther off as we see convenient for there is no Coast in the World that I know or have heard of where the Land is of a continual heighth without some small Valleys or declivities which lye intermixt with the high Land They are these subsidings of Valleys or low Lands that make dents in the shore and Creeks small Bays and Harbours or little Coves c. which afford good anchoring the surface of the Earth being there lodged deep under Water Thus we find many good Harbours on such Coasts where the Land bounds the Sea with steep Clifs by reason of the Declivities or subsiding of the Land between these Cliffs But where the Declension from the Hills or Cliffs is not within Land between Hill and Hill but as on the Coast of Chili and Peru the Declivity is toward the Main Sea or into it the Coast being perpendicular or very steep from the neighbouring Hills as in those Countries from the Andes that run along the shore there is a deep Sea and few or no Harbours or Creeks All that Coast is too steep for anchoring and hath the fewest Roads fit for Ships of any Coast I know The Coasts of Gallicia Portugal Norway and Newfoundland c. are Coasts like the Peruvian and the high Islands of the Archipelago but yet not so scanty of good Harbours for where there are short Ridges of Land there are good Bays at the extremities of those Ridges where they plunge into the Sea as on the Coast of Caraccos c. The Island of John Fernando and the Island St. Helena c. are such high Land with deep shore and in general the plunging of any Land under Water seems to be in proportion to the rising of its continuous part above Water more or less steep and it must be a bottom almost level or very gently declining that affords good anchoring Ships being soon driven from their Moorings on
a steep bank Therefore we never strive to anchor where we see the Land high and bounding the Sea with steep Cliffs and for this reason when we came in sight of States Island near Terra del Fuego before we entered into the South Seas we did not so much as think of anchoring after we saw what Land it was because of the steep Cliffs which appear'd against the Sea Yet there might be little Harbours or Coves for Shallops or the like to anchor in which we did not see nor search after As high steep Cliffs bounding on the Sea have this ill consequence that they seldom afford anchoring so they have this benefit that we can see them far off and sail close to them without danger for which reason we call them Bold Shores Whereas low Land on the contrary is seen but a little way and in many places we dare not come near it for fear of running aground before we see it Besides there are in many places shoals thrown out by the course of great Rivers that from the low Land fall into the Sea This which I have said that there is usually good anchoring near low Lands may be illustrated by several instances Thus on the South side of the Bay of Campeachy there is mostly low Land and there also is good anchoring all along shore and in some places to the Eastward of the Town of Campeachy we shall have so many fathom as we are leagues off from Land that is from 9 or 10 leagues distance till you come within 4 leagues and from thence to Land it grows but shallower The Bay of Honduras also is low Land and continues mostly so as we past along from thence to the Coasts of Portobel and Cartagena till we came as high as Santa Martha afterwards the Land is low again till you come towards the Coast of Caraccus which is a high Coast and bold shore The Land about Surinam on the same Coast is low and good anchoring and that over on the Coast of Guinea is such also And such too is the Bay of Panama where the Pilot-book orders the Pilot always to sound and not to come within such a depth be it by night or day In the same Seas from the high Land of Guatimala in Mexico to California there is mostly low Land and good anchoring In the Main of Asia the Coast of China the Bays of Siam and Bengal and all the Coast of Coromandel and the Coast about Malacca and against it the Island Sumatra on that side are mostly low anchoring shores But on the West side of Sumatra the shore is high and bold so most of the Islands lying to the Eastward of Sumatra as the Islands Borneo Celebes Gilolo and abundance of Island of less note lying scattering up and down those Seas are low Land and have good anchoring about them with many shoals scattered to and fro among them but the Islands lying against the East Indian Ocean especially the West sides of them are high Land and steep particularly the West parts not only of Sumatra but also of Java Timor c. Particulars are endless but in general 't is seldom but high Shores and deep Waters and on the other side low Land and shallow Seas are found together But to return from this digression to speak of the rest of these Islands Monmouth and Grafton Isles are very hilly with many of those steep inhabited Precipices on them that I shall describe particularly The two small Islands are flat and even only the Bashee Island hath one steep scraggy Hill but Goat-Island is all flat and very even The mold of these Islands in the Valleys is blackish in some places but in most red The Hills are very rocky The Valleys are well watered with Brooks of fresh water which run into the Sea in many different places The Soil is indifferent fruitful especially in the Valleys producing pretty great plenty of Trees tho not very big and thick Grass The sides of the Mountains have also short Grass and some of the Mountains have Mines within them for the Natives told us that the yellow Metal they shew'd us as I shall speak more particularly came from these Mountains for when they held it up they would point towards them The fruit of the Islands are a few Plantains Bonanoes Pine-apples Pumkins Sugar-canes c. and there might be more if the Natives would for the ground seems fertile enough Here are great plenty of Potatoes and Yames which is the common food for the Natives for bread kind for those few Plantains they have are only used as Fruit. They have some Cotton growing here of the small plants Here are plenty of Goats and abundance of Hogs but few Fowls either wild or tame For this I have always observed in my Travels both in the East and West Indies that in those places where there is plenty of Grain that is of Rice in the one and Maiz in the other there are also found great abundance of Fowls but on the contrary few Fowls in those Countries where the Inhabitants feed on Fruits and Roots only The few wild Fowls that are here are Parakites and some other small Birds Their tame Fowl are only a few Cocks and Hens Monmouth and Grafton Islands are very thick inhabited and Bashee Island hath one Town on it The Natives of these Islands are short squat people they are generally round visaged with low Foreheads and thick Eye-brows their Eyes of a hazel colour and small yet bigger than the Chinese short low Noses and their Lips and Mouths middle proportioned Their Teeth are white their Hair is black and thick and lank which they wear but short it will just cover their Ears and so it is cut round very even Their Skins are of a very dark copper colour They wear no Hat Cap nor Turbat nor any thing to keep off the Sun The men for the biggest part have only a small clout to cover their Nakedness some of them have Jackets made of Plantain leaves which were as rough as any Bears skin I never saw such rugged things The Women have a short Petticoat made of Cotton which comes a little below their Knees It is a thick sort of stubborn cloath which they make themselves of their Cotton Both Men and Women do wear large Ear-rings made of that yellow Metal before mention'd Whether it were Gold or no I cannot positively say I took it to be so it was heavy and of the colour of our paler Gold I would fain have brought away some to have satisfied my curiosity but I had nothing wherewith to buy any Captain Read bought 2 of these Rings with some Iron of which the people are very greedy and he would have bought more thinking he was come to a very fair Market but that the paleness of the Metal made him and his Crew distrust its being right Gold For my part I should have ventur'd on the purchase of some but having no property in
side of which are 4 small Islands close by it which are very well stored with Cloves The two chiefest are Ternate and Tidore and as the Isle of Ceylon is reckoned the only place for Cinnamon and that of Banda for Nutmegs so these are thought by some to be the only Clove Islands in the World but this is a great error as I have already shewn At the South end of the Island Celebes there is a Sea or Gulph of about 7 or 8 leagues wide and 40 or 50 long which runs up the Countrey almost directly to the North and this Gulph hath several small Islands along the middle of it On the West side of the Island almost at the South end of it the Town of Macasser is seated A Town of great Strength and Trade belonging to the Dutch There are great Inlets and Lakes on the East side of the Island as also abundance of small Islands and sholes lying scattered about it We saw a high peeked Hill at the N. end but the Land on the East side is low all along for we cruized almost the length of it The mold on this side is black and deep and extraordinary fat and rich and full of Trees and there are many Brooks of Water run out into the Sea Indeed all this East side of the Island seems to be but one large Grove of extraordinary great high Trees Having with much ado got on this East side coasting along to the Southward and yet having but little Wind and even that little against us at S. S. W. and sometimes Calm we were a long time going about the Island The 22d day we were in Lat. 1 d. 20 m. South and being about 3 leagues from the Island standing to the Southward with a very gentle Land wind about 2 or 3 a clock in the morning we heard a clashing in the Water like Boats rowing and fearing some sudden attack we got up all our Arms and stood ready to defend our selves As soon as it was day we saw a great Proe built like the Mindanayan Proe's with about 60 men in her and 6 smaller Proe's They lay still about a mile to Windward of us to view us and probably design'd to make a prey of us when they first came out but they were now afraid to venture on us At last we shewed them Dutch Colours thinking thereby to allure them to come to us for we could not go to them but they presently rowed in toward the Island and went into a large opening and we saw them no more nor did we ever see any other Boats or Men but only one fishing Canoa while we were about this Island neither did we see any House on all the Coast. About 5 or 6 leagues to the South of this place there is a great Range of both large and small Islands and many shoals also that are not laid down in our Drafts which made it extreamly troublesom for us to get through But we past between them all and the Island Celebes and anchored against a sandy Bay in 8 fathom sandy ground about half a mile from the main Island being then in lat 1 d. 50 m. South Here we stayed several days and sent out our Canoas a striking of Turtle every day for here is great plenty of them but they were very shy as they were generally where-ever we found them in the East India Seas I know not the reason of it unless the Natives go very much a striking here for even in the West Indies they are shy in places that are much disturbed and yet on New Holland we found them shy as I shall relate though the Natives there do not molest them On the sholes without us we went and gathered Shell-fish at low water There were a monstrous sort of Cockles the Meat of one of them would suffice 7 or 8 Men. It was very good wholsom Meat We did also beat about in the Woods on the Island but found no game One of our Men who was always troubled with sore Legs found a certain Vine that supported it self by climbing about other Trees The leaves reach'd 6 or 7 feet high but the strings or branches 11 or 12. It had a very green leaf pretty broad and roundish and of a thick substance These leaves pounded small and boiled with Hogs Lard make an excellent Salve Our Men knowing the vertues of it stockt themselves here there was scarce a Man in the Ship but got a pound or two of it especially such as were troubled with old Ulcers who found great benefit by it This Man that discovered these leaves here had his first knowledge of them in the Isthmus of Darien he having had this Receipt from one of the Indians there and he had been ashore in divers places since purposely to seek these leaves but did never find any but here Among the many vast Trees hereabouts there was one exceeded all the rest This Captain Read caused to be cut down in order to make a Canoa having lost our Boats all but one small one in the late Storms so 6 lusty Men who had been Logwood cutters in the Bays of Campeachy and Honduras as Captain Read himself and many more of us had and so were very expert at this work undertook to fell it taking their turns 3 always cutting together and they were one whole day and half the next before they got it down This Tree though it grew in a Wood was yet 18 foot in circumference and 44 foot of clean body without knot or branch and even there it had no more than one or two branches and then ran clean again 10 foot higher there it spread it self into many great limbs and branches like an Oak very green and flourishing yet it was perisht at the heart which marr'd it for the service intended So leaving it and having no more business here we weighed and went from hence the next day it being the 29th day of November While we lay here we had some Tornadoes one or two every day and pretty fresh Land Winds which were at West The Sea breezes were small and uncertain sometimes out of the N. E. and so veering about to the East and South East We had the Wind at North East when we weighed and we steered off S. S. W. In the afternoon we saw a shole a head of us and altered our course to the S. S. E. In the evening at 4 a clock we were close by another great shole therefore we tackt and stood in for the Island Celebes again for fear of running on some of the sholes in the night By day a Man might avoid them well enough for they had all Beacons on them like Huts built on tall Posts above high-water mark probably set up by the Natives of the Island Celebes or those of some other neighbouring Islands and I never saw any such elsewhere In the night we had a violent Tornado out of the S. W. which lasted about an hour The 30th day
we had a fresh Land Wind and steered away South passing between the 2 Shoals which we saw the day before These Shoals lye in lat 3 d. South and about 10 leagues from the Island Celebes Being past them the Wind died away and we lay decalmed till the afternoon Then we had a hard Tornado out of the South West and towards the evening we saw two or three Spouts the first I had seen since I came into the East Indies in the West Indies I had often met with them A Spout is a small ragged piece or part of a Cloud hanging down about a yard seemingly from the blackest part thereof Commonly it hangs down sloping from thence or sometimes appearing with a small bending or elbow in the middle I never saw any hang perpendicularly down It is small at the lower end seeming no bigger than ones Arm but 't is fuller towards the Cloud from whence it proceeds When the surface of the Sea begins to work you shall see the Water for about 100 paces in circumference foam and move gently round till the whirling motion increases and then it flies upward in a pillar about 100 paces in compass at the bottom but lessening gradually upwards to the smallness of the Spout it self there where it reacheth the lower end of the Spout through which the rising Sea-water seems to be conveyed into the Clouds This visibly appears by the Clouds increasing in bulk and blackness Then you shall presently see the Cloud drive along although before it seemed to be without any motion the Spout also keeping the same course with the Cloud and still sucking up the Water as it goes along and they make a Wind as they go Thus it continues for the space of half an hour more or less until the sucking is spent and then breaking off all the Water which was below the Spout or pendulous piece of Cloud falls down again into the Sea making a great noise with its fall and clashing motion in the Sea It is very dangerous for a Ship to be under a Spout when it breaks therefore we always endeavoured to shun it by keeping at a distance if possibly we can But for want of Wind to carry us away we are often in great fear and danger for it is usually calm when Spouts are at work except only just where they are Therefore men at Sea when they see a Spout coming and know not how to avoid it do sometimes fire shot out of their great Guns into it to give it air or vent that so it may break but I did never hear that it proved to be of any benefit And now being on this subject I think it not amiss to give you an account of an accident that happened to a Ship once on the Coast of Guinea some time in or about the year 1674. One Captain Records of London bound for the Coast of Guinea in a Ship of 300 Tuns and 16 Guns called the Blessing when he came into the lat 7 or 8 degrees North he saw several Spouts one of which came directly towards the Ship and he having no Wind to get out of the way of the Spout made ready to receive it by furling his sails It came on very swift and broke a little before it reached the Ship making a great noise and raising the Sea round it as if a great house or some such thing had been cast into the Sea The fury of the Wind still lasted and took the Ship on the Starboard bow with such violence that it snapt off the Boltsprit and Fore-mast both at once and blew the Ship all along ready to over-set it but the Ship did presently right again and the Wind whirling round took the Ship a second time with the like fury as before but on the contrary side and was again like to overset her the other way The Mizen-mast felt the fury of this second blast and was snapt short off as the Fore-mast and Bolt-sprit had been before The Main-mast and Main-top-mast received no damage for the fury of the Wind which was presently over did not reach them Three men were in the Fore-top when the Fore-mast broke and one on the Boltsprit and fell with them into the Sea but all of them were saved I had this relation from Mr. John Canby who was then Quarter-master and Steward of her one Ahraham Wise was chief Mate and Leonard Jefferies second Mate We are usually very much afraid of them yet this was the only damage that ever I heard done by them They seem terrible enough the rather because they come upon you while you lie becalm'd like a Log in the Sea and cannot get out of their way but though I have seen and been beset by them often yet the fright was always the greatest of the harm December the 1st we had a gentle gale at E. S. E. we steered South and at noon I was by Observation in lat 3 d. 34 m. South Then we saw the Island Bouton bearing South West and about 10 leagues distant We had very uncertain and unconstant Winds The Tornadoes came out of the S. W. which was against us and what other Winds we had were so saint that they did us little kinndess but we took the advantage of the smallest gale and got a little way every day The 4th day at noon I was by Observation in Lat. 4 d. 30 m. South The 5th day we got close by the N. W. end of the Island Bouton and in the evening it being fair weather we hoised out our Canoa and sent the Moskito men of whom we had 2 or 3 to strike Turtle for here are plenty of them but they being shy we chose to strike them in the night which is customary in the West Indies also For every time they come up to breathe which is once in 8 or 10 minutes they blow so hard that one may hear them at 30 or 40 yards distance by which means the Striker knows where they are and may more easily approach them than in the day for the Turtle sees bettter than he hears but on the contrary the Manatee's hearing is quickest In the morning they returned with a very large Turtle which they took near the shore and withal an Indian of the Island came aboard with them He spake the Malayan Language by which we did understand him He told us that 2 leagues farther to the Southward of us there was a good Harbour in which we might Anchor So having a fair Wind we got thither by noon This Harbour is in Lat. 4 d. 54 m. South lying on the East side of the Island Bouton Which Island lyes near the S. E. end of the Island Celebes distant from it about 3 or 4 leagues It is of a long form stretching S. W. and N. E. about 25 leagues long and 10 broad It is pretty high Land and appears pretty even and flat and very woody There is a large Town within a league of the anchoring
we bore away on the North side till we came to the East point giving the Rocks a small birth then we trimb'd sharp and stood to the Southward passing close by it and sounded again but found no ground This shoal is laid down in our Drafts not above 16 or 20 leagues from New Holland but we did run afterwards 60 leagues due South before we fell in with it and I am very confident that no part of New Holland hereabouts lyes so far Northerly by 40 leagues as it is laid down in our Drafts For if New Holland were laid down true we must of necessity have been driven near 40 leagues to the Westward of our course but this is very improbable that the Current should set so strong to the Westward seeing we had such a constant Westerly Wind. I grant that when the Monsoon shifts first the Current does not presently shift but runs afterwards near a month but the Monsoon had been shifted at least two months now But of the Monsoons and other Winds and of the Currents elsewhere in their proper place As to these here I do rather believe that the Land is not laid down true than that the Current deceived us for it was more probable we should have been deceived before we met with the shoal than afterward for on the Coast of New Holland we found the Tides keeping their constant course the Flood running N. by E. and the Ebb S. by W. The 4th day of January 1688 we fell in with the Land of New Holland in the Lat. of 16 d. 50 m. having as I said before made our course due South from the shoal that we past by the 31st day of December We ran in close by it and finding no convenient anchoring because it lies open to the N. W. we ran along shore to the Eastward steering N. E. by E. for so the Land lies We steered thus about 12 leagues and then came to a point of Land from whence the Land trends East and Southerly for 10 or 12 leagues but how afterwards I know not About 3 leagues to the Eastward of this point there is a pretty deep Bay with abundance of Islands in it and a very good place to anchor in or to hale ashore About a league to the Eastward of that point we anchored January the 5th 1688. 2 mile from the shore in 29 fathom good hard sand and clean ground New Holland is a very large tract of Land It is not yet determined whether it is an Island or a main Continent but I am certain that it joyns neither to Asia Africa nor America This part of it that we saw is all low even Land with sandy Banks against the Sea only the points are rocky and so are some of the Islands in this Bay The Land is of a dry sandy soil destitute of Water except you make Wells yet producing divers sorts of Trees but the Woods are not thick nor the Trees very big Most of the Trees that we saw are Dragon-trees as we supposed and these too are the largest Trees of any there They are about the bigness of our large Apple Trees and about the same heighth and the rind is blackish and somewhat rough The leaves are of a dark colour the Gum distils out of the knots or cracks that are in the bodies of the Trees We compared it with some Gum Dragon or Dragons Blood that was aboard and it was of the same colour and taste The other sorts of Trees were not known by any of us There was pretty long grass growing under the Trees but it was very thin We saw no Trees that bore Fruit or Berries We saw no sort of Animal nor any track of Beast but once and that seemed to be the tread of a Beast as big as a great Mastiff Dog Here are a few small Land-birds but none bigger than a Blackbird and but few Sea-fowls Neither is the Sea very plentifully stored with Fish unless you reckon the Manatee and Turtle as such Of these creatures there is plenty but they are extraordinary shy though the Inhabitants cannot trouble them much having neither Boats nor Iron The Inhabitants of this Country are the miserablest People in the world The Hodmadods of Monomatapa though a nasty People yet for Wealth are Gentlemen to these who have no Houses and Skin Garments Sheep Poultry and Fruits of the Earth Ostrich Eggs c. as the Hodmadods have and setting aside their humane shape they differ but little from Brutes They are tall strait bodied and thin with small long Limbs They have great Heads round Foreheads and great Brows Their Eye-lids are always half closed to keep the Flies out of their Eyes they being so troublesome here that no fanning will keep them from coming to ones Face and without the assistance of both hands to keep them off they will creep into ones Nostrils and Mouth too if the Lips are not shut very close So that from their Infancy being thus annoyed with these Insects they do never open their Eyes as other People and therefore they cannot see far unless they hold up their Heads as if they were looking at somewhat over them They have great Bottle noses pretty full lips and wide mouths The two fore teeth of their upper Jaw are wanting in all of them men and women old and young whether they draw them out I know not Neither have they any Beards They are long visaged and of a very unpleasing aspect having no one graceful feature in their faces Their Hair is black short and curl'd like that of the Negroes and not long and lank like the common Indians The colour of their skins both of their faces and the rest of their body is coal black like that of the Negroes of Guinea They have no sort of Cloaths but a piece of the rind of a Tree ty'd like a Girdle about their wastes and a handful of long Grass or 3 or 4 small green Boughs full of Leaves thrust under their Girdle to cover their nakedness They have no Houses but lye in the open Air without any covering the Earth being their Bed and the Heaven their Canopy Whether they cohabit one Man to one Woman or promiscuously I know not but they do live in Companies 20 or 30 Men Women and Children together Their only food is a small sort of Fish which they get by making Wares of stone across little Coves or branches of the Sea every Tide bringing in the small Fish and there leaving them for a prey to these people who constantly attend there to search for them at low water This small Fry I take to be the top of their Fishery they have no Instruments to catch great Fish should they come and such seldom stay to be left behind at low water nor could we catch any Fish with our Hooks and Lines all the while we lay there In other places at low water they seek for Cockles Muscles and Periwincles Of these Shell-fish there are
fewer still so that their chiefest dependance is upon what the Sea leaves in their Wares which be it much or little they gather up and march to the places of their abode There the old People that are not able to stir abroad by reason of their Age and the tender Infants wait their rerurn and what Providence has bestowed on them they presently broil on the Coals and eat it in common Sometimes they get as many Fish as makes them a plentiful Banquet and at other times they scarce get every one a taste but be it little or much that they get every one has his part as well the young and tender as the old and feeble who are not able to go abroad as the strong and lusty VVhen they have eaten they lye down till the next low water and then all that are able march out be it night or day rain or shine 't is all one they must attend the Wares or else they must fast For the Earth affords them no Food at all There is neither Herb Root Pulse nor any sort of Grain for them to eat that we saw nor any sort of Bird or Beast that they can catch having no Instruments wherewithal to do so I did not perceive that they did worship any thing These poor creatures have a sort of Weapon to defend their Ware or fight with their Enemies if they have any that will interfere with their poor Fishery They did at first endeavour with their Weapons to frighten us who lying ashore deterr'd them from one of their Fishing-places Some of them had Wooden Swords others had a sort of Lances The Sword is a piece of Wood shaped somewhat like a Cutlass The Lance is a long strait pole sharp at one end and hardened afterwards by heat I saw no Iron nor any other sort of Metal therefore it is probable they use Stone-Hatchets as some Indians in America do described in Chap. IV. How they get their Fire I know not but probably as Indians do out of Wood. I have seen the Indians of Bon-Airy do it and have my self tryed the experiment They take a flat piece of Wood that is pretty soft and make a small dent in one side of it then they take another hard round stick about the bigness of ones little finger and sharpening it at one end like a Pencil they put that sharp end in the hole or dent of the flat soft piece and then rubbing or twirling the hard piece between the palms of their hands they drill the soft piece till it smoaks and at last takes fire These people speak somewhat through the throat but we could not understand one word that they said We anchored as I said before January the 5th and seeing Men walking on the shore we presently sent a Canoa to get some acquaintance with them for we were in hopes to get some Provision among them But the Inhabitants seeing our Boat coming run away and hid themselves We searched afterwards 3 days in hopes to find their Houses but found none yet we saw many places where they had made Fires At last being out of hopes to find their Habitations we searched no farther but left a great many toys ashore in such places where we thought that they would come In all our search we found no water but old Wells on the sandy Bays At last we went over to the Islands and there we found a great many of the Natives I do believe there were 40 on one Island Men Women and Children The Men at our first coming ashore threatened us with their Lances and Swords but they were frighted by firing one Gun which we fired purposely to scare them The Island was so small that they could not hide themselves but they were much disordered at our Landing especially the Women and Children for we went directly to their Camp The luâ—…iest of the Women snatching up their Infants ran away howling and the little Children run after squeaking and bawling but the Men stood still Some of the VVomen and such People as could not go from us lay still by a Fire making a doleful noise as if we had been coming to devour them but when they saw we did not intend to harm them they were pretty quiet and the rest that fled from us at our first coming returned again This their place of dwelling was only a Fire with a few Boughs before it set up on that side the wind was of After we had been here a little while the Men began to be familiar and we cloathed some of them designing to have had some service of them for it for we found some Wells of Water here and intended to carry 2 or 3 Barrels of it aboard But it being somewhat troublesom to carry to the Canoas we thought to have made these men to have carried it for us and therefore we gave them some Cloaths to one an old pair of Breeches to another a ragged Shirt to a third a Jacket that was scarce worth owning which yet would have been very acceptable at some places where we had been and so we thought they might have been with these people We put them on them thinking that this finery would have brought them to work heartily for us and our Water being filled in small long Barrels about 6 Gallons in each which were made purposely to carry Warer in we brought these our new Servants to the Wells and put a Barrel on each of their Shoulders for them to carry to the Canoa But all the signs we could make were to no purpose for they stood like Statues without motion but grinn'd like so many Monkeys staring one upon another For these poor Creatures seem not accustomed to carry burthens and I believe that one of our Ship-boys of 10 years old would carry as much as one of them So we were forced to carry our Water our selves and they very fairly put the Cloaths off again and laid them down as if Cloaths were only to work in I did not perceive that they had any great liking to them at first neither did they seem to admire any thing that we had At another time our Canoa being among these Islands seeking for game espy'd a drove of these men swimming from one Island to another for they have no Boats Canoas or Bark-logs They took up four of them and brought them aboard two of them were middle aged the other two were young men about 18 or 20 year old To these we gave boiled Rice and with it Turtle and Manatee boiled They did greedily devour what we gave them but took no notice of the Ship or any thing in it and when they were set on Land again they ran away as fast as they could At our first coming before we were acquainted with them or they with us a Company of them who liv'd on the Main came just against our Ship and standing on a pretty high Bank threatned us with their Swords and Lances by shaking them at
or 8 leagues from the Island Sumatra on the West side of it we saw abundance of Coco Nuts swimming in the Sea and we hoysed out our Boat and took up some of them as also a small Hatch or Scuttle rather belonging to some Bark The Nuts were very sound and the Kernel sweet and in some the Milk or Water in them was yet sweet and good The 13th day we came to a small Island called Triste in Lat. by observation 4 d. South it is about 14 or 15 leagues to the West of the Island Sumatra From hence to the Northward there are a great many small uninhabited Islands lying much at the same distance from Sumatra This Island Triste is not a mile round and so low that the Tide flows clear over it It is of a sandy soil and full of Coco-nut Trees The Nuts are but small yet sweet enough full and more ponderous than I ever felt any of that bigness notwithstanding that every Spring-tide the Salt water goes clear over the Island We sent ashore our Canoas for Coco-nuts and they return'd aboard laden with them three times Our Strikers also went out and struck some Fish which was boiled for Supper They also killed 2 young Aligators which we salted for the next day I had no opportunity at this place to make my Escape as I would have done and gone over hence to Sumatra could I have kept a Boat with me But there was no compassing this and so the 15th day we went from hence steering to the Northward on the West side of Sumatra Our Food now was Rice and the Meat of the Coco-nuts rasped and steep'd in water which made a sort of Milk into which we did put our Rice making a pleasant Mess enough After we parted from Triste we saw other small Islands that were also full of Coco-nut Trees The 19th day being in Lat. 3 d. 25 m. S. the S. W. point of the Island Nassau bore N. about 5 mile dist This is a pretty large uninhabited Island in Lat. 3 d. 20 m. S. and is full of high Trees About a mile from the Island Nassau there is a small Island full of Coco-nut Trees There we anchored the 20th day to replenish our stock of Coco-nut Trees A 〈◊〉 riff of Rocks lies almost round this Island so that our Boats could not go ashore nor come aboard at low water yet we got aboard 4 Boat loads of Nuts This Island is low like Triste and the anchoring is on the North side where you have 14 fathom a mile from shore clean sand The 21st day we went from hence and kept to the Northward coasting still on the West side of the Island Sumatra and having the winds between the W. and S. S. W. with unsettled weather sometimes Rains and Tornadoes and sometimes fair weather The 25th day we crost the Equator still coasting to the Northward between the Island Sumatra and a range of small Islands lying 14 or 15 leagues off it Among all these Islands Hog Island is the most considerable It lies in lat 3 d. 40. m. North. It is pretty high even Land cloathed with tall flourishing Trees we past by it the 28th day The 29th we saw a sail to the North of us which we chased but it being little wind we did not come up with her till the 30th day Then being within a league of her Captain Read went in a Canoa and took her and brought her aboard She was a Proe with 4 men in her belonging to Achin whither she was bound She came from one of these Coco-nut Islands that we past by and was laden with Coco-nuts and Goco-nut Oil. Captain Read ordered his men to take aboard all the Nuts and as much of the Oyl as he thought convenient and then cut a hole in the bottom of the Proe and turned her loose keeping the men Prisoners It was not for the lucre of the Cargo that Captain Read took this Boat but to hinder me and some others from going ashore for he knew that we were ready to make our escapes if an opportunity presented it self and he thought that by his abusing and robbing the Natives we should be afraid to trust our selves among them But yet this proceeding of his turned to our great advantage as shall be declared hereafter May the 1st we ran down by the North West end of the Island Sumatra within 7 or 8 leagues of the shore All this West side of Sumatra which we thus coasted along our Englishmen at Fort St. George call the West Coast simply without adding the name of Sumatra The Prisoners who were taken the day before shewed us the Islands that lye off of Achin Harbour and the Channels through which Ships go in and told us also that there was an English Factory at Achin I wisht my self there but was forced to wait with patience till my time was come We were now directing our course towards the Nicobar Islands intending there to clean the Ship 's bottom in order to make her sail well The 4th day in the evening we had sight of one of the Nicobar Islands The Southermost of them lies about 40 leagues N. N. W. from rhe N. W. end of the Island Sumatra This most Southerly of them is Nicobar it self but all the cluster of Islands lying South of the Audeman Islands are called by our Seamen the Nicobar Islands The Inhabitants of these Islands have no certain converse with any Nation but as Ships pass by them they will come aboard in their Proes and offer their Commodities to sale never inquiring of what Nation they are for all white people are alike to them Their chiefest Commodities are Ambergrease and Fruits Ambergrease is often found by the Native Indians of these Islands who know it very well as also know how to cheat ignorant Strangers with a certain mixture like it Several of our men bought such of them for a small purchase Captain Weldon also about this time touched at some of these Islands to the North of the Island where we lay and I saw a great deal of such Ambergrease that one of his men bought there but it was not good having no smell at all Yet I saw some there very good and fragrant At that Island where Captain Weldon was there were 2 Fryers sent thither to convert the Indians One of them came away with Captain Weldon the other remained there still He that came away with Captain Weldon gave a very good character of the Inhabitants of that Island viz. that they were very honest civil harmless People that they were not addicted to Quarrelling Theft or Murder that they did marry or at least live as Man and Wife one Man with one Woman never changing till Death made the separation that they were punctual and honest in performing their Bargains and that they were inclined to receive the Christian Religion This Relation I had afterwards from the mouth of a Priest at Tonqueen who told me that he
being in hopes to accomplish our Voyage to Achin before the western Monsoon was set in strong knowing that we should have very blustring weather after this fair weather especially at the first coming of the western Monsoon We rowed therefore away to the Southward supposing that when we were clear from the Island we should have a true Wind as we call it for the Land hales the Wind and we often find the Wind at Sea different from what it is near the Shore We rowed with 4 Oars taking our turns Mr. Hall and I steered also by turns for none of the rest were capable of it We rowed the first afternoon and the night ensuing about twelve leagues by my judgment Our course was South South East but the 16th day in the morning when the Sun was an hour high we saw the Island from whence we came bearing N. W. by N. Therefore I found we had gone a point more to the East than I intended for which reason we steered S. by E. In the afternoon at 4 a clock we had a gentle breeze at W. S. W. which continued so till 9 all which time we laid down our Oars and steered away S. S. E. I was then at the Helm and I found by the ripling of the Sea that there was a strong Current against us It made a great noise that might be heard near half a mile At 9 a clock it fell calm and so continued till 10. Then the Wind sprung up again and blew a fresh breeze all night The 17th day in the morning we lookt out for the Island Sumatra supposing that we were now within 20 leagues of it for we had rowed and sailed by our reckoning 24 leagues from Nicobar Island and the distance from Nicobar to Achin is about 40 leagues But we lookt in vain for the Island Sumatra for turning our selves about we saw to our grief Nicobar Island lying W. N. W. and not above 8 leagues distant By this it was visible that we had met a very strong Current against us in the night But the wind freshned on us and we made the best use of it while the weather continued fair At noon we had an observation of the Sun my lat was 6 d. 55 m. and Mr. Hall's was 7 d. N. The 18th day the Wind freshned on us again and the Sky began to be clouded It was indifferent clear till noon and we thought to have had an Observation but we were hindred by the Clouds that covered the face of the Sun when it came on the Meridian This often happens that we are disappointed of making Observations by the Suns being clouded at noon though it shines clear both before and after especially in places near the Sun and this obscuring of the Sun at noon is commonly sudden and unexpected and for about half an hour or more We had then also a very ill presage by a great Circle about the Sun 5 or 6 times the Diameter of it which seldom appears but storms of Wind or much Rain ensue Such Circles about the Moon are more frequent but of less import We do commonly take great notice of these that are about the Sun observing if there be any breach in the Circle and in what quarter the breach is for from thence we commonly find the greatest stress of the Wind will come I must confess that I was a little anxious at the sight of this Circle and wisht heartily that we were near some Land Yet I shewed no sign of it to discourage my Consorts but made a virtue of necessity and put a good countenance on the matter I told Mr. Hall that if the Wind became too strong and violent as I feared it would it being even then very strong we must of necessity steer away before the Wind and Sea till better Weather presented and that as the Winds were now we should instead of about 20 leagues to Achin be driven 60 or 70 leagues to the Coast of Cudda or Queda a Kingdom and Town and Harbour of Trade on the Coast of Malacca The Winds therefore bearing very hard we rolled up the foot of our Sail on a pole fastned to it and settled our yard within 3 foot of the Canoa sides so that we had now but a small sail yet it was still too big considering the Wind for the Wind being on our broad side prest her down very much tho supported by her Outlagers insomuch that the poles of the Outlagers going from the sides of their Vessel bent as if they would break and should they have broken our overturning and perishing had been inevitable Besides the Sea increasing would soon have filled the Vessel this way Yet thus we made a shift to bear up with the side of the Vessel against the Wind for a while But the Wind still increasing about one a clock in the afternoon we put away right before Wind and Sea continuing to run thus all the afternoon and part of the night ensuing The Wind continued increasing all the afternoon and the Sea still swelled higher and often broke but did us no damage for the ends of the Vessel being very narrow he that steered received and broke the Sea on his back and so kept it from coming in so much as to endanger the Vessel though much Water would come in which we were forced to keep heaving out continually And by this time we saw it was well that we had altered our course every Wave would else have filled and sunk us taking the side of the Vessel And though our Outlagers were well lasht down to the Canoas bottom with Rattans yet they must probably have yielded to such a Sea as this when even before they were plunged under Water and bent like twigs The evening of this 18th day was very dismal The Sky looked very black being covered with dark Clouds the Wind blew hard and the Seas ran high The Sea was already roaring in a white fome about us a dark night coming on and no Land in sight to shelter us and our little Ark in danger to be swallowed by every Wave and what was worst of all none of us thought our selves prepared for another World The Reader may better guess than I can express the confusion that we were all in I had been â—…in many eminent dangers before now some of which I have already related but the worst of them all was but a play-game in comparison with this I must confess that I was in great conflicts of Mind at this time Other dangers came not upon me with such a leisurely and dreadful solemnity A sudden Skirmish or Engagement or so was nothing when ones blood was up and pusht forward with eager expectations But here I had a lingring view of approaching death and little or no hopes of escaping it and I must confess that my courage which I had hitherto kept up failed me here and I made very sad reflections on my former Life and lookt back with horrour and
detestation on actions which before I disliked but now I trembled at the remembrance of I had long before this repented me of that rovingcourse of life but never with such concern as now I did also call to mind the many miraculous acts of Gods Providence towards me in the whole course of my life of which kind I believe few men have met with the like For all these I returned thanks in a peculiar manner and this once more desired Gods assistance and composed my mind as well as I could in the hopes of it and as the event shew'd I was not disappointed of my hopes Submitting our selves therefore to Gods good providence and taking all the care we could to preserve our lives Mr. Hall and I took turns to steer and the rest took turns to heave out the Water and thus we provided to spend the most doleful night I ever was in About 10 a clock it began to Thunder Lighten and Rain but the Rain was very welcom to us having drank up all the Water we brought from the Island The Wind at first blew harder than before but within half an hour it abated and became more moderate and the Sea also asswaged of its fury and then by a lighted Match of which we kept a piece burning on purpose we looked on our Compass to see how we steered and found our course to be still East We had no occasion to look on the Compass before for we steered right before the Wind which if it had shifted we had been obliged to have altered our couse accordingly But now it being abated we found our Vessel lively enough with that small sail which was then aboard to hale to our former course S. S. E. which accordingly we did being now in hopes again to get to the Island Sumatra But about 2 a clock in the morning of the 19th day we had another gust of Wind with much Thunder Lightening and Rain which lasted till day and obliged us to put before the Wind again steering thus for several hours It was very dark and the hard Rain soaked us so throughly that we had not one dry thread about us The Rain chill'd us extreamly for any fresh water is much colder than that of the Sea For even in the coldest Climates the Sea is warm and in the hottest Climates the Rain is cold and unwholesome for mans body In this wet starveling plight we spent the tedious night Never did poor Mariners on a Lee-shore more earnestly long for the dawning light than we did now At length the day appeared but with such dark black Clouds near the Horizon that the first glimpse of the Dawn appeared 30 or 40 degrees high which was dreadful enough for it is a common saying among Sea-men and true as I have experienced that a high dawn will have high winds and a low dawn small winds We continued our course still East before Wind and Sea till about 8 a clock in the morning of this 19th day and then one of our Malayan friends cryed out Pulo Way Mr. Hall and Ambrose and I thought the fellow had said Pull away an expression usual among English Sea-men when they are Rowing And we wonder'd what he meant by it till we saw him point to his consorts and then we looking that way saw Land appearing like an Island and all our Malayans said it was an Island at the N. W. end of Sumatra called Way for Pulo Way is the Island Way We who were dropping with wet cold and hungry were all overjoyed at the sight of the Land and presently marked its bearing It bore South and the Wind was still at West a strong gale but the Sea did not run so high as in the night Therefore we trimmed our small Sail no bigger than an Apron and steered with it Now our Outlagers did us a great kindness again for although we had but a small sail yet the Wind was strong and prest down our Vessels side very much but being supported by the Outlagers we could brook it well enough which otherwise we could not have done About noon we saw more Land beneath the supposed Pulo Way and steering towards it before night we saw all the Coast of Sumatra and found the errours of our Achinese for the high Land that we first saw which then appeared like an Island was not Pulo Way but a great high Mountain on the Island Sumatra called by the English the Golden Mountain Our Wind continued till about 7 a clock at night then it abated and at 10 a clock it died away and then we stuck to our Oars again though all of us quite tired with our former fatigues and hardships The next morning being the 20th day we saw all the low Land plain and judged our selves not above 8 leagues off About 8 a clock in the morning we had the Wind again at West a fresh gale and steering in still for the Shore at 5 a clock in the afternoon we run to the mouth of a River on the Island Sumatra called Passange Jonca It is 34 leagues to the Eastward of Achin and 6 leagues to the West of Diamond Point which makes with 3 Angles of a Rhombus and is low Land Our Malayans were very well acquainted here and carried us to a small fishing Village within a mile of the Rivers mouth called also by the name of the River Passange Jonca The hardships of this Voyage with the scorching heat of the Sun at our first setting out and the cold Rain and our continuing wet for the last two days cast us all into Fevers so that now we were not able to help each other nor so much as to get our Canoa up to the Village but our Malayans got some of the Townsmen to bring her up The news of our arrival being noised abroad one of the Oramkai's or Noblemen of the Island came in the night to see us We were then lying in a small Hut at the end of the Town and it being late this Lord only viewed us and having spoken with our Malayans went away again but he returned to us again the next day and provided a large house for us to live in till we should be recovered of our sickness ordering the Towns-people to let us want for nothing The Achinese Malayans that came with us told them all the circumstances of our Voyage how they were taken by our Ship and where and how we that came with them were Prisoners aboard the Ship and had been set ashore together at Nicobar as they were It was for this reason probably that the Gentlemen of Sumatra were thus extraordinary kind to us to provide every thing that we had need of nay they would force us to accept of Presents from them that we knew not what to do with as young Buffaloes Goats c. for these we would turn loose at night after the Gentlemen that gave them to us were gone for we were prompted by our Achinese Consorts to
that I had now an offer to go thither with Captain Metcalf who wanted a Mate and had already spoke to me Mr. Moody to incourage me to go with him told me that if I would go with him to Indrapore he would buy a small Vessel there and send me to the Island Meangis Commander of her and that I should carry Prince Jeoly and his Mother with me that being their Country by which means I might gain a Commerce with his People for Cloves This was a design that I liked very well therefore I consented to go thither It was some time in July 1690. when we went from Fort St. George in a small Ship called the Diamond Captain Howel Commander We were about 50 or 60 Passengers in all some ordered to be left at Indrapore and some at Rencouly 5 or 6 of us were Officers the rest Soldiers to the Company We met nothing in our Voyage that deserves notice till we came abrest of Indrapore and then the Wind came at N. W. and blew so hard that we could not get in but were forced to bear away to Bencouli another English Factory on the same Coast lying 50 or 60 leagues to the Southward of Indrapore Upon our arrival at Bencouli we saluted the Fort and were welcomed by them The same day we came to an anchor and Captain Howel and Mr. Moody with the other Merchants went ashore and were all kindly received by the Governour of the Fort. It was 2 days after before I went ashore and then I was importuned by the Governour to stay there to be Gunner of this Fort because the Gunner was lately dead and this being a place of greater import than Indrapore I should do the Company more service here than there I told the Governour if he would augment my Sallery which by agreement with the Governor of Fort St. George I was to have had at Indrapore I was willing to serve him provided Mr. Moody would consent to it As to my Sallery he told me I should have 24 Dollers per month which was as much as he gave to the old Gunner Mr. Moody gave no answer till a Week aster and then being ready to be gone to Indrapore he told me I might use my own liberty either to stay here or go with him to Indrapore He added that if I went with him he was not certain as yet to perform his Promise in getting a Vessel for me to go to Meangis with Jeoly and his Mother but he would be so fair to me that because I left Maderas on his account he would give me the half share of the 2 Painted People and leave them in my Possession and at my Disposal I accepted of the Offer and Writings were immediately drawn between us Thus it was that I came to have this Painted Prince whose Name was Jeoly and his Mother They were born on a small Island called Meangis which is once or twice mentioned in Chap. XIII I saw the Island twice and 2 more close by it each of the 3 seemed to be about 4 or 5 leagues round and of a good highth Jeoly himself told me that they all three abounded with Gold Cloves and Nutmegs for I shewed him some of each sort several times and he told me in the Malayan Language which he spake indifferent well Meangis Hadda Madochala se Bullawan that is there is abundance of Gold at Meangis Bullawan I have observed to be the common word for Gold at Mindanao but whether the proper Malayan word I know not for I found much difference between the Malayan Language as it was spoken at Mindanao and the Language on the Coast of Malacca and Achin When I shewed him Spice he would not only tell me that there was Madochala that is abundance but to make it appcar more plain he would also shew me the hair of his Head a thing frequent among all the Indians that I have met with to shew their Hair when they would express more than they can number He told me also that his Father was Raja of the Island where they lived that there were not above 30 men on the Island and about one hundred Women that he himself had five Wives and eight Children and that one of his Wives painted him He was painted all down his Breast between his Shoulders behind on his Thighs mostly before and in the form of several broad Rings or Bracelets round his Arms and Legs I cannot liken the Drawings to any Figure of Animals or the like but they were very curious full of great variety of Lines Flourishes Chequered Work c. keeping a very graceful proportion and appearing very artificial even to a wonder especially that upon and between his Shoulder-blades By the account he gave me of the manner of doing it I understood that the Painting was done in the same manner as the Jerusalem Cross is made in Mens Arms by pricking the skin and rubbing in a pigment But whereas Powder is used in making the Jerusalem-Cross they at Meangis use the gum of a Tree beaten to powder called by English Drammer which is used instead of Pitch in many parts of India He told me that most of the Men and Women on the Island were thus painted and also that they had all Ear-rings made of Gold and Gold Shackles about their Legs and Arms that their common Food of the produce of the Land was Potatoes and Yames that they had plenty of Cocks and Hens but no other tame Fowl He said that Fish of which he was a great Lover as wild Indians generally are was very plentiful about the Island and that they had Canoas and went a fishing frequently in them and that they often visited the other two small Islands whose Inhabitants speak the same Language as they did which was so unlike the Malayan which he had learnt while he was a Slave at Mindanao that when his Mother and he were talking together in their Meangian Tongue I could not understand one word they said And indeed all the Indians who spake Malayan who are the Trading and politer sort lookt on these Meangians as a kind of Barbarians and upon any occasion of dislike would call them Bobby that is Hogs the greatest expression of contempt that can be especially from the mouth of Malayans who are generally Mahometans and yet the Malayans every where call a Woman Babbi by a name not much different and Mamma signifies a Man Tho these two last words properly denote Male and Female and as Eyam signifies a Fowl so Eyam Mamma is a Cock and Eyam Babbi is a Hen. But this by the way He said also that the Customs of those other Isles and their manner of living was like theirs and that they were the only people with whom they had any converse And that one time as he with his Father Mother and Brother with 2 or 3 men more were going to one of these other Islands they were driven by a strong wind on the Coast
Esperance or of Good Hope finding that they might now proceed Eastward There is good Sounding off this Cape 50 or 60 leagues at Sea to the Southward and therefore our English Seamen standing over as they usually do from the Coast of Brazil content themselves with their Soundings concluding thereby that they are abrest of the Cape they often pass by without seeing it and begin to shape their course Northward They have several other signs whereby to know when they are near it as by the Sea-Fowl they meet at Sea especially the Algatrosses a very large long-winged Bird and the Mangovolucres a smaller Fowl But the greatest dependance of our English Seamen now is upon their observing the variation of the Compass which is very carefully minded when they come near the Cape by taking the Suns Amplitude mornings and evening This they are so exact in that by the help of the Azimuth Compass an Instrument more peculiar to the Seamen of our Nations they know when they are abrest of the Cape or are either to the East or the West of it and for that reason though they should be to Southward of all the Soundings or fathomable ground they can shape their course right without being obliged to make the Land But the Dutch on the contrary having settled themselves on this Promontory do always touch here in their East India Voyages both going and coming The most remarkable Land at Sea is a high Mountain steep to the Sea with a flat even top which is called the Table Land On the West side of the Cape a little to the Northward of it there is a spacious Harbour with a low flat Island lying off it which you may leave on either hand and pass in or out securely at either end Ships that anchor here ride near the Main Land leaving the Island at a farther distance without them The Land by the Sea against the Harbour is low but backt with high Mountains a little way in to the Southward of it The Soil of this Country is of a brown colour not deep yet indifferently productive of Grass Herbs and Trees The Grass is short like that which grows on our Wiltshire or Dorsetshire Downs The Trees hereabouts are but small and few the Country also farther from the Sea does not much abound in Trees as I have been informed The Mould or Soyl also is much like this near the Harbour which though it cannot be said to be very fat or rich Land yet it is very fit for cultivation and yields good Crops to the industrious Husbandman and the Country is pretty well settled with Farms Dutch Families and French Refugees for 20 or 30 leagues up the Country but there are but few Farms near the Harbour Here grows plenty of Wheat Barly Pease c. Here are also Fruits of many kinds as Apples Pears Quinces and the largest Pomgranats that I did ever see The chief Fruits are Grapes These thrive very well and the Country is of late years so well stockt with Vineyards that they make abundance of Wine of which they have enough and to spare and do sell great quantities to Ships that touch here This Wine is like a French High Country White Wine but of a pale yellowish colour it is sweet very pleasant and strong The tame Animals of this Country are Sheep Goats Hogs Cows Horses c. The Sheep are very large and fat for they thrive very well here This being a dry Country and the short pasturage very agreeable to these Creatures but it is not so proper for great Cattle neither is the Beef in its kind so sweet as the Mutton Of wild Beasts 't is said here are several sorts but I saw none However it is very likely there are some wild Beasts that prey on the Sheep because they are commonly brought into the Houses in the night and penn'd up There is a very beautiful sort of wild Al 's in this Country whose body is curiously striped with equal lists of white and black the stripes coming from the ridge of his Back and ending under the Belly which is white These stripes are two or three Fingers broad running parallel with each other and curiously intermixt one white and one black over from the Shoulder to the Rump I saw two of the Skins of these Beasts dried and preserved to be sent to Halland as a rarity They seemed big enough to inclose the Body of a Beast as big as a large Colt of a twelvemonth old Here are a great many Ducks Dunghil Fowls c. and Ostriges are plentifully found in the dry Mountains and Plains I eat of their Eggs here and those of whom I bought them told me that these creatures lay their Eggs in the Sand or at least on dry ground and so leave them to be hatch'd by the Sun The meat of one of their Eggs will suffice two men very well The Inhabitants do preserve the Eggs that they find to sell to strangers They were pretty scarce when I was here it being the beginning of their Winter whereas I was told they lay their Eggs about Christmas which is their Summer The Sea hereabouts affords plenty of Fish of divers sorts especially a small sort of Fish not so big as a Herring whereof they have such great plenty that they pickle great quantities yearly and send them to Europe Seales are also in great numbers about the Cape which as I have still observed is a good sign of the plentifulness of Fish which is their food The Dutch have a strong Fort by the Sea side against the Harbour where the Governour lives At about 2 or 300 paces distance from thence on the West side of the Fort there is a small Dutch Town in which I told about 50 or 60 Houses low but well built with Stone-walls there being plenty of Stone drawn out of a Quarry close by On the backside of the Town as you go towards the Mountains the Dutch East-India Company have a large House and a stately Garden walled in with a high Stone Wall This Garden is full of divers sorts of Herbs Flowers Roots and Fruits with curious spacious Gravel-walks and Arbors and is watered with a Brook that descends out of the Mountains which being cut into many channels is conveyed into all parts of the Garden The Hedges which make the Walks are very thick and 9 or 10 foot high They are kept exceeding neat and even by continual pruning There are lower Hedges within these again which serve to separate the Fruit-trees from each other but without shading them and they keep each sort of Fruit by themselves as Apples Pears abundance of Quinces Pomgranats c. These all prosper very well and bear good Fruit especially the Pomgranat The Roots and Garden-herbs have also their distinct places hedged in apart by themselves and all in such order that it is exceeding pleasant and beautiful There are a great number of Negro Slaves brought from other parts of the
assistance of the Doctors of the Fort a fine Air and good Kitchin and Cellar Physick soon recovered their healths Those that subscribed to be at all calls and assisted to bring in the Ship received Captain Heath's Bounty by which they furnished themselves with Liquor for their homeward Voyage But we were now so few that we could not sail the Ship therefore Captain Heath desired the Governour to spare him some men and as I was informed had a promise to be supplied out of the homeward bound Dutch East India Ships that were now expected every day and we waited for them In the mean time in came the James and Mary and the Josiah of London bound home Out of these we thought to have been furnished with men but they had only enough for themselves therefore we waited yet longer for the Dutch Fleet which at last arrived but we could get no men from them Captain Heath was therefore forced to get men by stealth such as he could pick up whether Soldiers or Seamen The Dutch knew our want of men therefore near 40 of them those that had a design to return to Europe came privately and offered themselves and waited in the night at places appointed where our Boats went and fetched 3 or 4 aboard at a time and hid them especially when any Dutch Boat came aboard our Ship Here at the Cape I met my friend Daniel Wallis the same who leapt into the Sea and swam at Pulo Condore After several Traverses to Madagascar Don Mascarin Ponticherri Pegu Cunnimere Maderas and the River of Hugli he was now got hither in a homeward bound Dutch Ship I soon perswaded him to come over to us and found means to get him aboard our Ship About the 23d of May we sailed from the Cape in the company of the James and Mary and the Josiah directing our Course towards the Island Santa Hellena We met nothing of remark in this Voyage except a great swelling Sea out of the S. W. which taking us on the broad side made us rowl sufficiently Such of our Water-Casks as were between Decks running from side to side were in a short time all staved and the Deck well washed with the fresh water The Shot tumbled out the Lockers and Garlands and rung a lowd peal rumbling from side to side every rowl that the Ship made neither was it an easie matter to reduce them again within bounds The Guns being carefully look'd after and lash'd fast never budgâ—d but the Tackles or Pulleys and Lashings made great Musick too The sudden and violent motion of the Ship made us fearful lest some of the Guns should have broken loose which must have been very detrimental to the Ships sides The Masts were also in great danger to be rowl'd by the board but no harm hapned to any of us besides the loss of 3 or 4 Butts of Water and a Barrel or 2 of good Cape Wine which was staved in the great Cabbin This great Tumbling Sea took us shortly after we came from the Cape The violence of it lasted but one Night yet we had a continual swelling came out of the S. W. almost during all the passage to Santa Hellena which was an eminent token that the S. W. Winds were now violent in the higher latitudes towards the South Pole for this was the time of the year for those Winds Notwithstanding this boisterous Sea coming thus obliquely upon us we had fine clear weather and a moderate gale at S. E. or between that and the East till we came to the Island Santa Hellena where we arrived the 20th day of June There we found the Princess Ann at an Anchor waiting for us The Island Santa Hellena lies in about 16 Degrees South lat The Air is commonly serene and clear except in the months that yield Rain yet we had one or two very rainy days even while we were here Here are moist seasons to plant and sow and the weather is temperate enough as to heat tho so near the Equator and very healthy The Island is but small not above nine or ten leagues in length and stands 3 or 400 leagues from the main Land It is bounded against the Sea with steep Rocks so that there is no landing but at 2 or 3 places The Land is high and Mountainous and seems to be very dry and poor yet there are fine Valleys proper for cultivation The Mountains appear bare only in some places you may see a few low Shrubs but the Valleys afford some Trees fit for building as I was informed This Island is said to have been first discover'd and settled by the Portuguese who stockt it with Goats and Hogs But it being afterwards deserted by them it lay waste till the Dutch finding it convenient to relieve their East India Ships settled it again but they afterwards relinquished it for a more convenient place I mean the Cape of Good Hope Then the English East India Company settled their Servants there and began to Fortify it but they being yet weak the Dutch about the year 1672 came thither and re-took it and kept it in their possession This news being reported in England Captain Monday was sent to re-take it who by the advice and conduct of one that had formerly lived there landed a Party of Armed Men in the night in a small Cove unknown to the Dutch then in Garrison and climbing the Rocks got up into the Island and so came in the morning to the Hills hanging over the Fort which stands by the Sea in a small Valley From thence firing into the Fort they soon made them surrender There were at this time two or three Dutch East India Ships either at Anchor or coming thither when our Ships were there These when they saw that the English were Masters of the Island again made sail to be gone but being chaced by the English Frigots 2 of them became rich prizes to Captain Monday and his men The Island hath continued ever since in the hands of the English East-India Company and hath been greatly strengthned both with Men and Guns so that at this day it is secure enough from the invasion of any Enemy For the common Landing-place is a small Bay like a Half-Moon scarce 500 paces wide between the two points Close by the Sea side are good Guns planted at equal distances lying along from one end of the Bay to the other besides a small Fort a little further in from the Sea near the midst of the Bay All which makes this Bay so strong that it is impossible to force it The small Cove where Captain Monday landed his men when he took the Island from the Dutch is scarce fit for a Boat to land at and yet that is now also fortified There is a small English Town within the great Bay standing in a little Valley between two high steep Mountains There may be about 20 or 30 small Houses whose Walls are built with rough Stones The inside
three Captains and some others among whom I got leave to go also Captain Weldon had recommended me to the chief of the Factory while he was aboard us and my going up now to the City was in order to have his assistance in the Voyage to Cochinchina Champa or Cambodia which Captain Weldon had contrived for me nor was it his fault that it came to nothing We went from our Ships in the Country Boats we had hired with the tide of flood and anchored in the ebb for the tide runs strong for 30 or 40 miles beyond the place where we left our Ships Our men contented themselves with looking after their goods the Tonquinese being very light finger'd and left the management of the Boats entirely to the Boats crew Their Boats have but one Mast and when the wind is against them they take it down and ply their Oars As we advanced thus up the River sometimes rowing sometimes sailing we had a delightful prospect over a large level fruitful Country It was generally either Pasture or Rice-fields and void of Trees except only about the Villages which stood thick and appeared mighty pleasant at a distance There are many of these Villages stand close to the banks of the Rivers incompassed with Trees on the back side only but open to the River When we came near any of these Villages we were commonly encountered with Beggars who came off to us in little Boats made of twigs and plaistered over both inside and outside with Clay but very leaky These were a poor Leprous people who for that reason are compell'd by the rest to live by themselves and are permitted to beg publickly As soon as they spied us they set up a loud doleful cry and as we past by them we threw them out some Rice which they received with great appearance of joy In about 4 days time we get to Hean a Town on the East side of the River which is here entire for a little before we came to Hean we met the main stream where it parts into the Channels that of Domea which we came up and the other of Rokbo making so a large and triangular Island between them and the Sea the mouths of those Channels being as I have said 20 leagues asunder Hean is about 60 miles from the place where we left our Ships and about 80 from the Sea that way but along the River or Channel Rokbo where the Land trends more to the Southward it seems to be farther distant from the Sea 'T is a considerable Town of about 2000 Houses but the Inhabitants are most poor people and Souldiers who keep a Garrison there tho it has neither Walls Fort nor great Guns Here is one street belonging to the Chinese Merchants For some years ago a great many lived at Cachao till they grew so numerous that the Natives themselves were even swallowed up by them The King taking notice of it ordered them to remove from thence allowing them to live any where but in the City But the major part of them presently forsook the Country as not finding it convenient for them to live any where but at Cachao because that is the only place of Trade in the Country and Trade is the Life of a Chinese However some of them were content to settle at Hean where they have remained ever since And these Merchants notwithstanding the prohibition go often to Cachao to buy and sell goods but are not suffer'd to make it their constant residence There were two of these China Merchants who traded yearly to Japan with raw and wrought Silks bringing back Money chiefly These all of them wore long Hair braided behind as their own Country fashion was before the Tartarian Conquest The French too have their Factory here not being allowed to fix at Cachao and their Bishops Palace is the fairest building in Hean but of this I shall have occasion to speak more hereafter The Governor of the adjacent Province lives here He is one of the principal Mandarins of the Nation and he has always a great many Souldiers in the Town and inferiour Officers whom he employs at his pleasure on any occasion Besides here are also some of the Kings River Frigots which I shall hereafter describe ready to be sent on any expedition and tho no Europeans come up so far as this with their Ships that I could learn yet the Siamites and Chinese bring their Ships up the River Rokbo quite to Hean and lie at anchor before it and we found there several Chinese Jonks They ride afloat in the middle of the River for the water does not rise and fall much at this place Neither is the flood discerned by the turning of the stream for that always runs down tho not so swift near full Sea as at other times for the tide pressing against the stream tho faintly so far up the River has not power to turn it but only slackens its course and makes the water rise a little The Governor or his Deputy gives his Chop or Pass to all Vessels that go up or down not so much as a Boat being suffered to proceed without it For which reason we also made a stop yet we stayed here but a little while and therefore I did not now go ashore but had a while after this a better opportunity of seeing Hean From Hean we went up to Cachao in our Boats being about 2 days more on our Voyage for we had no tide to help us We landed at the English Factory and I stayed there 7 or 8 days before I went down to our Ships again in one of the Country Boats We had good weather coming up but it rain'd all the time of this my first stay at Cachao and we had much wet weather after this But having got thus far I shall now proceed to give some general account of this Country from my own observations and the experience of Merchants and others worthy of credit who have had their Residence there and some of them a great may years CHAP. II. Tonquin its Situation Soil Waters and Provinces It s natural Produce Roots Herbs Fruits and Trees The Cam-chain and Cam-quit Oranges Their Limes c. Their Betle and Lichea Fruit. The Pone tree Lack trees Mulberry trees and Rice Their land Animals Fowl tame and wild Nets for wild Ducks Locusts Fish Balachaun Nuke mum Pickle Soy and manner of Fishing The Market Provisions Food and Cookery Their Chau or Tea The Temperature of their Air and Weather throughout the Year Of the great Heats near the Tropicks Of the yearly Land Floods here and elsewhere in the Torrid Zone and of the overflowing of the Nile in Egypt Of Storms called Tuffoons and of the influence the Rains have on the Harvest at Tonquin and elsewhere in the Torrid Zone THE Kingdom of Tonquin is bounded to the North and North East with China to the West with the Kingdom of Laos to the S and E. with Cochinchina and the Sea
which washes a part of this Kingdom As to the particular bounds or extent of it I cannot be a competent judge coming to it by Sea and going up directly to Cachao but it is reasonable to believe it to be a pretty large Kingdom by the many great Provinces which are said to be contained in it That part of the Kingdom that borders on the Sea is all very low Land neither is there any Hill to be seen but the Elephant Mountain and a Ridge of a much less heighth continued from thence to the mouth of the River of Domea The Land for about 60 miles up in the Country is still very low even and plain nor is it much higher for about 40 miles farther quite to Cachao and beyond it being without any sensible Hill tho generally of a tolerable good heighth and with some gentle risings here and there that make it a fine pleasant Champian and the further side of this also is more level than the Champian Country it self about Hean or Cachao Farther still to the North beyond all this I have been inform'd that there is a chain of high Mountains running cross the Country from East to West but I could get no intimation of what is beyond them The Soil of this Country is generally very rich That very low Land I speak of towards the Sea is most black Earth and the mould pretty deep In some places there 's very strong Clay The Champian Land is generally yellowish or greyish earth of a looser and more friable substance then the former yet in some places it has a touch of the Clay too In the plain Country near the Mountains last mentioned there are said to be some high steep rocks of Marble scattered up and down at unequal distances which standing in that large plain Savannah appear like so many great Towers or Castles and they are the more visible because the Land about them is not burdened with Wood as in some places in its neighbourhood I have said somewhat already of the great River and its 2 branches Rokbo and Domea wherewith this Country is chiefly water'd tho it is not distitute of many other pleasant streams that are lost in these in their course towards the Sea and probably there are many others that run immediately into the Sea through their own channels tho not so navigable as the other The Country in general is very well watered and by means of the great Navigable River and its Branches it has the opportunity of Foreign Trade This rises about the Mountains in the North or from beyond them whence running Southerly toward the Sea it passes thro the before-mention'd plain of Marble Rocks and by that time it comes to Cachao which is about 40 or 50 miles to the South of the Mountains 't is about as broad as the Thames at Lambeth vet so shallow in the dry Season as that it may be forded on Horseback At Hean 20 miles lower us rather broader than the Thames at Gravesend and so below Hean to the place where it divides it self The Kingdom of Tonquin is said to be divided into 8 large Provinces viz. the East and West Provinces the North and South Provinces and the Province of Cachao in the middle between those 4 which 5 I take to be the principal Provinces making the heart of the Country The other 3 which are Tenan Tenehoa and Ngeam lie more upon the Borders The Province of Tenan is the most Easterly having China on the S. E. the Island Aynam and the Sea on the S. and S. W. and the East Province on the N. W. This is but a small Province its chiefest product is Rice The East Province stretches away from Tenan to the North Province having also China on its East side part of the South Province and the Province of Cachao on the West and the Sea on the South This is a very large Province 't is chiefly low Land and much of it Islands especially the S. E. part of it bordering on the Sea towards Tenan and here the Sea makes the Cod of a Bay It has abundance of Fishermen inhabiting near the Sea but its chief produce is Rice here is also good pasturage and much Cattle c. Hean is the chief place of this Pro vince and the Seat of the Mandarin its Governor The S. Province is the triangular Island made by Sea the River of Domea is on it's E. side dividing it from the East Province and Rokbo on the West dividing it from Tenan having the Sea to its South This Province is very low plain even Land producing Rice in great abundance here are large pastures and abundance of Fishermen near the Sea Tenehoa to the West of Rokbo has the West Province on its North Aynam on its West and the Sea on its South this Province is also low Land chiefly abounds in Rice and Cattle and hath a great Trade in Fishing as all the Sea Coast has in general The Province of Ngeam hath Tenehoa on the East and on the South and West it borders on Cochinchina and has the West Province on its North. This is a pretty large Province abounding with Rice and Cattle and here are always Soldiers kept to guard the Frontiers from the Cochinchineses The West Provinces hath Ngeam on the South the Kingdom of Laos on the West the Province of Cachao on the East and on the North the North Province This is a large Province and good Champion Land rich in Soyl partly woody partly pasture The product of this Province is chiefly in Lack and here are bred a great abundance of Silk worms for making Silk The North Province is a large tract of Land making the North side of this whole Kingdom It hath the Kingdom of Laos on the West and China on the East and North the Kingdom of Bao Oi Baotan on the North West and on the South it ders on 3 of the principal Provinces of Tonquin viz. the West Province that of Cachao and the East Province This North Province as it is large so it has variety of Land and Soyl a great deal of plain Champion Land and many high Mountains which yield Gold c. the wild Elephants of this Country are found most on these Mountains The other parts of this Province produce Lack and Silk c. The Province of Cachao in the heart of the Kingdom lies between the East West North and South Provinces 't is a Champion pleasant Country the Soil is yellow or grey earth and 't is pretty woody with some Savannahs It abounds with the two principal Commodities of their Trade viz. Lack and Silk and has some Rice Nor are any of the Provinces destitute of these Commodities tho in different proportions each according to the respective Soil This Country has of its own growth all necessaries for the Life os Man They have little occasion for eatable Roots having such plenty of Rice yet they have Yams and Potatoes for variety
they would have all the produce of them at their own disposal Yet even in this they are short and may be still more disappointed of the Pepper Trade if other People would seek for it For the greatest part of the Island of Sumatra propagates this Plant and the Natives would readily comply with any who would come to Trade with them notwithstanding the great endeavours the Dutch make against it for this Island is so large populous and productive of Pepper that the Dutch are not able to draw all to themselves Indeed this place about Bancalis is in a manner at their devotion and for ought I know it was through a design of being revenged on the Dutch that Captain Johnson lost his life I find the Malayans in general are implacable Enemies to the Dutch and all seems to spring from an earnest desire they have a free Trade which is restrained by them not only here but in the Spice Islands and in all other places where they have any power But 't is freedom only must be the means to incourage any of these remote people to Trade especially such of them as are industrious and whose inclinations are bent this way as most of the Malayans are and the Major part of the people of the East Indies even from the Cape of Good Hope Eastward to Japan both Continent and Islands For tho in many places they are limited by the Dutch English Danes c. and restrain'd from a free Trade with other Nations yet have they continually shewn what an uneasiness that is to them And how dear has this Restraint cost the Dutch when yet neither can they with all the Forts and Guard-Ships secure the Trade wholly to themselves any more then the Barlaventa Fleet can secure the Trade of the West Indies to the Spaniards but enough of this matter You have heard before that Mr. Wells came with his Sloop to Bancalis to the great joy of the 2 men that were yet alive in Captain Johnson's Vessel These 2 Seamen were so just that they put all Captain Johnsons Papers and Money into one Chest then lockt it and put the Key of it into another Chest and locking that flung the Key of it into the Sea and when Mr Wells came aboard they offered him the Command of both Vessels He seemingly refused it saying that he was no Seaman and could not manage either of them yet by much importunity he accepted the Command of them or at least undertook the account of what was in the Sloop engaging to give a faithful account of it to Governor Bloom They were all now so weakned that they were but just enough to sail one of the Vessels Therefore they sent to the Shabander of Bancalis to desire some of his Men to help sail the Sloops over to Malacca but he refused it Then they offered to sell one of them for a small matter but neither would he buy Then they offered to give him the smallest to that he answered that he did not dare to accept of her for fear of the Dutch Then Mr. Wells and his crew concluded to take the Pepper and all the Stores out of the small Vessel and burn her and go away with the other to Malacca This they put in execution and presently went away and opening Captain Johnson's Chest they found 2 or 300 Dollars in Money This with all his Writings and what else they found of value Mr. Wells took into his possession In a very short time they got over to Malacca There they stayed expecting the coming of some English Ship to get a Pilot to Navigate the Sloop for neither of them would undertake to Navigate her farther Captain Lacy coming hither first he spared Mr. Wells his chief Mate to Navigate her to Achin when we came hither they were ready to sail and went away 2 or 3 days before us To return therefore to our own Voyage Captain Weldon having finished his business at Malacca we failed again steering towards Achin where he designed to touch in his way to Fort St. George We overtook Mr Wells about 35 leagues short of Achin against the River Passange Jonca and shortly after we both arrived at Achin and anchored in the Road about the beginning of March 1689. Here I took my leave of Captain Weldon and of my friend Mr. Hall who went with us to Tonquin and I went ashore being very weak with my Flux as I had been all the Voyage Captain Weldon offered me any kindness that lay in his Power at Fort St. George if I would go with him thither but I chose rather to stay here having some small acquaintance than to go in that weak condition to a place where I was wholly unknown But Mr. Hall went with Captain Weldon to Fort St. George and from thence in a short time returned to England in the Williamson of London CHAP VII The Country of Achin described its Situation and Extent Golden Mount and the Neighbouring Isles of Way and Gomez c. making several Channels and the Road of Achin The Soil of the Continent Trees and Fruits particularly the Mangastan and Pumple-nose Their Roots Herbs and Drugs the Herb Ganga or Bang and Camphire the Pepper of Sumatra and Gold of Achin The Beasts Fowl and Fish The People their Temper Habits Buildings City of Achin and Trades The Husbandry Fishery Carpenters and Flying Proes The Money-Changers Coin and Weights Of the Gold-Mines The Merchants who come to Achin and of the Chinese Camp or Fair. The washing used at Achin A Chinese Renegado Punishments for Theft and other Crimes The Government of Achin of the Queen Oronkeys or Nobles and of the Slavery of the People The State kept by the Eastern Princes A Civil War here upon the choice of a new Queen The A. and the other English in a fright upon a seizure made of a Moors Ship by an English Captain The weather floods and heat at Achin BEing now arrived at Achin again I think it not amiss to give the Reader some short account of what observations I made of that City and Country This Kingdom is the largest and best peopled of many small ones that are up and down the Isle of Sumatra and it makes the North West end of that Island It reaches Eastward from that N. W. point of the Island a great way along the shore towards the Streights of Malacca for about 50 or 60 Leagues But from Diamond point which is about 40 Leagues from Achin towards the borders of the Kingdom the Inhabitants tho belonging to Achin are less in subjection to it Of these I can say but little neither do I know the bounds of this Kingdom either within Land or along the West Coast. That West side of the Kingdom is high and mountainous as is generally the rest of the West Coast of the whole Island The point also of Achin or extremity of the Island is High Land but Achin it self and the Country to the Eastward is lower
not altogether destitute of small Hills and every where of a moderate heighth and a Champion Country naturally very fit for Cultivation There is one Hill more remarkable than ordinary especially to Seamen The English call it the Golden Mount but whether this name is given it by the Natives or only by the English I know not 'T is near the N. W. end of the Island and Achin stands but 5 or 6 mile from the bottom of it 'T is very large at the foot and runs up smaller towards the head which is raised so high as to be seen at Sea 30 or 40 leagues This was the first Land that we saw coming in our Proe from the Nicobar Islands mentioned in my former Voyage The rest of the Land tho of a good heighth was then undiscerned by us so that this Mountain appeared like an Island in the Sea which was the Reason why our Achin Malayans took it for Pulo Way But that Island tho pretty high Champion Land was invisible when this Golden Mount appeared so plain tho as far distant as that Island Besides what belongs to Achin upon the Continent there are also several Islands under its Jurisdiction most of them uninhabited and these make the Road of Achin Among them is this Pulo Way which is the Easternmost of a Range of Islands that lye off the N. W. end of Sumatra It is also the largest of them and it is inhabited by Malefactors who are banisht thither from Achin This with the other Islands of this Range lye in a semicircular form of about 7 Leagues diameter Pulo Gomez is another large Island about 20 mile West from Pulo Way and about 3 Leagues from the N. W. point of Sumatra Between Pulo Gomez and the Main are 3 or 4 other small Islands yet with Channels of a sufficient breadth between them for Ships to pass through and they have very deep water All Ships bound from Achin to the Westward or coming from thence to Achin go in and out thro one or other of these Channels and because shipping comes hither from the Coast of Surrat one of these Channels which is deeper than the rest is called the Surrat Channel Between Pulo Gomez and Pulo Way in the bending of the Circle there are other small Islands the chief of which is called Pulo Rondo This is a small round high Island not a above 2 or 3 mile in circumference It lyes almost in the extremity of the bending on the N. E. part of the Circle but nearer Pulo Way than Pulo Gomez There are large deep Channels on either side but the most frequented is the Channel on the West side Which is called the Bengal Channel because it looks towards that Bay and Ships coming from thence from the Coast of Coromandel pass in and out this way Between Pulo Way and the Main of Sumatra is another Channel of 3 or 4 Leagues wide which is the Channel for Ships that go from Achin to the Streights of Malacca or any Country to the East of those Streights and vice versa There is good riding in all this Semicircular Bay between the Islands and Sumatra but the Road for all Ships that come to Achin is near the Sumatra Shore within all the Islands There they anchor at what distances they please according to the Monsoons or Seasons of the Year There is a small Navigable River comes out into the Sea by which Ships transport their Commodities in smaller Vessels up to the City The mouth of this River is 6 or 7 Leagues from Pulo Rondo and 3 or 4 from Pulo Way and near as many from Pulo Gomez The Islands are pretty high Champion Land the mould black or yellow the Soyl deep and fat producing large tall Trees fit for any uses There are brooks of water on the 2 great Islands of Way and Gomez and several sorts of wild Animals especially wild Hogs in abundance The Mold of this Continent is different according to the natural position of it The Mountains are Rocky especially those towards the West Coast yet most that I have seen seems to have a superficial covering of Earth naturally producing Shrubs small Trees or pretty good Grass The small Hills are most of them cloathed with Woods the Trees whereof seem by their growth to spring from a fruitful Soyl the Champion Land such as I have seen is some black some grey some reddish and all of a deep mold But to be very particular in these things especially in all my Travels is more than Ican pretend to tho it may be I took as much notice of the difference of Soil as I met with it as most Travellers have done having been bred in my youth in Somersetshire at a place called East Coker near Yeovil or Evil In which Parish there is as great variety of Soil as I have ordinarily met with any where viz. black red yellow sandy stony clay morass or swampy c. I had the more reason to take notice of this because this Village in a great measure is Let out in small Leases for Lives of 20 30 40 or 50 pound per Ann. under Coll. Helliar the Lord of the Mannor and most if not all these Tenants had their own Land scattering in small pieces up and down several sorts of Land in the Parish so that every one had some piece of every sort of Land his Black ground his Sandy Clay c. some of 20 30 or 40 Shillings an Acre for some uses and other not worth 10 groats an Acre My Mother being possest of one of these Leases and having of all these sorts of Land I came acquainted with them all and knew what each sort would produce viz. Wheat Barley Massin Rice Beans Peas Oats Fetches Flax or Hemp in all which I had a more than usual knowledge for one so young taking a particular delight in observing it but enough of this matter The Kingdom of Achin has in general a deep mould It is very well watered with Brooks and small Rivers but none navigable for Ships of burthen This of Achin admits not of any but small Vessels The Land is some part very woody in other places Savannah the Trees are of divers sorts most unknown to me by name The Cotton and Cabbage-trees grow here but not in such plenty as in some part of America These Trees commonly grow here as indeed usually where-ever they grow in a champion dry ground such at least as is not drowned or morassy for here is some such Land as that by the Rivers and there grow Mangrove Trees and other Trees of that kind Neither is this Kingdom destitute of Timber-trees fit for building The Fruits of this Country are Plantains Bonanoes Guava's Oranges Limes Jacks Durians Coco-nuts Pumple noses Pomgranates Mangoes Mangastans Citrons Water melons Musk-melons Pine-apples c. Of all these sorts of Fruits I think the Mangastan is without compare the most delicate This Fruit is in shape much like the Pomgranate but a
to these Moors are obliged to joyn Stock with them and they first make an offer of it to them as a kindness and the Moors being generally desirous to Trade frequently accept of it almost on any terms but should they be unwilling yet dare they not refuse for fear of disobliging the Danes who are Lords of the place In this Ship I found Mr Coppenger and he was the first that I had seen of all the Company that left me at the Nicobar Islands The next morning we filled our water and weigh'd again the Dane being gone a little before He was bound to Jihore to load Pepper but intended to touch at Malacca as most Ships do that pass these Streights He also sailed better than we and therefore left us to follow him We stood on yet nearest to the Sumatra shore till we came in sight of Pulo Arii in Lat 3 d 2 m. N. These are several Islands lying S. E. by E. l Easterly from Pulo Verero about 32 leagues distant These Islands are good marks for Ships bound thro the Streights for when they bear S. E. at 3 or 4 leagues distance you may steer away E. by S. for the Malacca Shore from whence you then may be about 20 leagues The first Land you will see is Pulo Parselore which is a high peeked Hill in the Country on the Malacca Coast which standing by it self amidst a low Country it appears like an Island tho I know not whether it is is really one for it stands some miles within the shoar of the Continent of Malacca It is a very remarkable Hill and the only Sea mark for Seamen to guide themselves through certain Sands that lye near the Main and if it is thick hazy Weather and the hill is obscur'd Pilots unless they are very knowing in the Soundings will hardly venture in for the Channel is not above a league wide and there are large shoals on each side These shoals lye ten leagues from Pulo Arii and continue till within 2 or 3 of the Malacca shoar In the Channel there is 12 or 14 fathom water but you may keep in 7 or 8 fathom on either side and sounding all the way you may pass on without danger We had a good gale at West which brought us in sight of Pulo Parsalore and so we kept sounding till we came within the shoar and then we had the Town of Malacca about 18 leagues distant from us to the S. E. and by E. Being shot over to the Malacca shore there is good wide Channel to sail in you having the shoals on one side and the Land on the other to which last you may come as nigh as you see convenient for there is water enough and good anchoring The Tide runs pretty strong here the Flood sets to the Eastward and the Ebb to the West and therefore when there is little wind and Ships cannot stem the Tide they commonly anchor But we being in with the Malacca shoar had a westerly Wind which brought us before Malacca Town about the middle of October and here I first heard that King William and Queen Mary were Crowned King and Queen of England The Dane that left us at Pulo Verero was not yet arrived for as we afterwards understood they could not find the way through the Sands but were forc'd to keep along without them and fetch a great Compass about which retarded their Passage Malacca is a pretty large Town of about 2 or 300 Families of Dutch and Portuguese many of which are a mixt breed between those Nations There are also many of the Native Malayans inhabiting in small Cottages on the skirts of the Town The Dutch Houses are built with Stone and the Streets are wide and straight but not paved At the N. West of the Town there is a Wall and Gate to pass in and out and a small Fort always guarded with Soldiers The Town stands on a level low ground close by the Sea The Land on the backside of the Town seems to be morassy and on the West side without the Wall there are Gardens of Fruits and Herbs and some fair Dutch Houses but that quarter is chiefly the habitation of the Malayans On the East side of the Town there is a small River which at a Spring Tide will admit small Barks to enter About 100 paces from the Sea there is a Draw bridge which leads from the midst of the Town to a strong Fort built on the East side of the River This is the chief Fort and is built on a low level ground close by the Sea at the foot of a little steep Hill Its form is semicircular according to the natural position of the adjacent Hill It fronts chiefly to the Sea and having its foundation on firm Rocks the Walls are carried up to a good heighth and of a considerable thickness The lower part of is washed by the Sea every Tide On the back of the Hill the Land being naturally low there is a very large Moat cut from the Sea to the River which makes the whole an Island and that back part is stockadoed round with great Trees set up an end so that there is no entring when once the Draw-bridge is haled up On the Hill within the Fort stands a small Church big enough to receive all Towns people who come hither on Sundays to hear Divine service and on the Main beyond the Fort the Malayans are also seated close by the Sea The first Europeans who settled here were the Portuguese They also built the great Fort but whether they moted round the Hill and made an Island of that spot of ground I know not nor what charges have been bestowed on it since to make it defenceable nor what other alterations have been made but the whole building seems to be pretty antient and that part of it which fronts to the Sea was in all probability built by the Portuguese for there are still the marks of the Conquerors shot in the Walls It is a place so naturally strong that I even wonder how they could be beaten out but when I consider what other places they then lost and their mismanagements I am the less surprized at it The Portuguese were the first discoverers by Sea of the East Indies and had thereby the Advantage of Trade with these 〈◊〉 Eastern people as also an opportunity thro their weakness to settle themselves where they pleased Therefore they made Settlements and Forts among them in divers places of India as here for one and presuming upon the strength of their Forts they insulted over the Natives and being grown rich with Trade they fell to all manner of looseness and debauchery the usual concomitant of Wealth and as commonly the fore runner of Ruin The Portuguese at this place by report made use of the Native Women at their pleasure whether Virgins or Married Women luch as they liked they took without controle and it is probable they as little restrained their lust in
Then we weighed again having a small land Wind but the Tyde of flood was against us and drove us to the Eastward When the Ebb came we jogged on and got about 3 leagues anchoring when the Flood came because the Winds were against us Thus we continued plying with the Ebb and anchoring every flood till we came to Pulo Parsalore where the Captain told me he would not go out the same way we came in as I would have perswaded him but kept the Malacca Shore aboard and past within the Sholes But in a few Hours after we ran upon a Shole driven on it by the Tide of Flood which here set to the Eastward tho by our Reckoning it should have been half Ebb and the Flood should have set Westward as we had it all the rest of the way from Malacca but the Sholes probably caused some whirling about of the Tide However the Sand we were struck upon was not above an 100 yards in circumference and the flood being rising we waited the time of high water and then drove over it having sent our Boat to discover how the Sholes lay while our Ship was aground Mr Richards all the while being in great fear lest the Malayans should come off in their Boats and attack the Vessel We were now afloat again and soon got without all the Sholes yet we did not stand over towards Sumatra but coasted along nearest the Malacca shore it being now most proper for us so to do yet for having the winds Westerly we could not have beat under the other shore 2 or 3 days after this we had sight of some Islands called Pulo Sambilong which in the Malayan Language signifies nine Islands there being so many of them lying scattering at unequal distances from each other It was near one of these Islands that Captain Minchin in a former Voyage was like to lose his hand by a prick with a Cat fishes Fin as I have said in my former Vol. p. 149. and tho his hand was cured yet he has lost the use of it ever since and is never likely to regain it more We stood in pretty near the shore in hopes to gain a fresh Land Wind. About 10 a Clock the Land Wind came off a gentle breez and we coasted along shore But a small Tornado coming off from the shore about midnight we broke our Mizen yard and being near a Dutch Island called Pulo Dinding we made in for it and anchored there the night ensuing and found there a Dutch Sloop mann'd with about 30 Soldiers at an anchor This is a small Island lying so nigh the main that Ships passing by cannot know it to be an Island It is pretty high Land and well watered with Brooks The mold is blackish deep and fat in the lower ground but the Hills are somewhat Rocky yet in general very woody The Trees are of divers sorts many of which are good Timber and large enough for any use Here are also some good for Masts and Yards they being naturally light yet tough and serviceable There s good riding on the East side between the Island and the Main You may come in with the Sea breeze and go out with a Land wind there is water enough and a secure Harbour The Dutch who are the only Inhabitants have a Fort on the East side close by the Sea in a bending of the Island which makes a small Cove for Ships to anchor in The Fort is built 4 square without Flankers or Bastions like a house every square is about 10 or 12 yards The Walls are of a good thickness made of stone and carried up to a good heighth of about 30 foot and covered over head like a dwelling House There may be about 12 or 14 Gnns in it some looking out at every square These Guns are mounted on a strong Platform made within the Walls about 16 Foot high and there are steps on the outside to ascend to the Door that opens to the Platform there being no other way into the Fort. Here is a Governour and about 20 or 30 Souldiers who all lodge in the Fort. The Soldiers have their lodging in the Platform among the Guns but the Governour has a fair Chamber above it where he lies with some of the Officers About a hundred yards from the Fort on the Bay by the Sea there is a low timbered House where the Governour abides all the day time In this House there were two or three Rooms for their use but the chiefest was the Governours Dining Room This fronted to the Sea and the end of it looked towards the Fort. There were two large Windows of about 7 or 8 foot square the lower part of them about 4 or 5 foot from the ground These Windows were wont to be left open all the day to let in the refreshing breeze but in the night when the Governour withdrew to the Fort they were closed with strong shutters and the Doors made fast till the next day The Continent of Malacca opposite to the Island is pretty low champion Land cloathed with lofty Woods and right against the Bay where the Dutch Fort stands there is a navigable River for small craft The product of the Country thereabouts besides Rice and other eatables is Tutaneg a sort of Tin I think courser than ours The Natives are Malayans who as I have always observed are bold and treacherous yet the trading people are affable and courteous to Merchants These are in all respects as to their Religion Custom and manner of Living like other Malayans Whether they are governed by a King or Raja or what other manner of Government they live under I know not They have Canoas and Boats of their own and with these they fish and traffick among themselves but the Tin Trade is that which has formerly drawn Merchant Strangers thither But tho the Country might probably yield great quantities of this metal and the Natives are not only inclinable but very desirous to trade with Strangers yet are they now restrained by the Dutch who have monopoliz'd that Trade to themselves It was probably for the lucre of this Trade that the Dutch built the Fort on the Island but this not wholly answering their ends by reason of the distance between it and the Rivers mouth which is about 4 or 5 miles they have also a Guardship commonly lying here and a Sloop with 20 or 30 armed men to hinder other Nations from this Trade For this Tutaneg or Tin is a valuable Commodity in the Bay of Bengal and here purchased reasonably by giving other Commodities in exchange neither is this Commodity peculiarly found hereabouts but farther Northerly also on the Coast and particularly in the Kingdom of Queda there is much of it The Dutch also commonly keep a Guardship and have made some fruitless essays to bring that Prince and his Subjects to trade only with them but here over against P. Dinding no strangers dare approach to trade neither may any Ship
Dutch was much infested by them These Indians as I have heard had formerly Plantations on most of the Caribbe Islands and in their Sea Voyages did use to remain 3 Weeks or a Month at a time on an Island and then remove to another and so visit most of them before their return to the main St. Vincent is another of these Islands lying near St. Lucia We passed between them and seeing a smoke on St. Lucia we sent our Boat ashore there Our Men found some of the Caribee-Indians and bought of them Plantains Bonanos Pine Apples and Sugar Canes and returning aboard again there came with them a Canoa with 3 or 4 of the Indians These often repeated the word Captain Warner and seemed to be in some disquiet about him We did not then understand the meaning of it but since I have been informed that this Captain Warner whom they mentioned was born at Antego one of our English Islands and the Son of Governour Warner by an Indian Woman and bred up by his Father after the English manner he learned the Indian Language also of his Mother but being grown up and finding himself despised by his English Kindred he forsook his Fathers House got away to St. Lucia and there lived among the Caribbe Indians his Relations by the Mother side Where conforming himself to their Customs he became one of their Captains and roved from one Island to another as they did About this time the Caribbees had done some spoil on our English Plantations at Antego and therefore Governour Warner's Son by his Wife took a Party of Men and went to suppress those Indians and came to the place where his Brother the Indian Warner lived Great seeming Joy there was at their Meeting but how far it was real the Event shewed for the English Warner providing plenty of Liquor and inviting his half Brother to be merry with him in the midst of his Entertainment ordered his Men upon a signal given to murder him and all his Indians which was accordingly performed The Reason of this inhumane Action is diversly reported Some say that this Indian-Warner committed all the spoil that was done to the English and therefore for that Reason his Brother kill'd him and his Men. Others that he was a great Friend to the English and would not suffer his Men to hurt them but did all that lay in his power to draw them to an amicable Commerce and that his Brother kill'd him for that he was ashamed to be related to an Indian But be it how it will he was call'd in question for the Murder and forced to come home to take his Tryal in England Such perfidious Doings as these beside the Baseness of them are great hindrances of our gaining an Interest among the Indians Putting from these Islands we steered away further West and falling in with the East end of Hispaniola we ranged down along on the South side even to Cape Tiburon which is the West-end of the Island There we lay by and sent our Boat ashore for Captain Kent had been informed that there were great Groves of Orange-Trees near this Cape But our Men not finding any he then concluded there were none But I have been since informed my self by several that have been there that there are enough of them thereabouts From hence we steered away for Jamaica where we arrived in a short time bringing with us the first News they had of the Peace with the Dutch Here according to my Contract I was immediately discharged and the next day I went to the Spanish Town call'd Sant ' Jago de la Vega where meeting with Mr. Whalley we went together to Coll. Hellier's Plantation in 16 Mile-walk In our way thither we past through Sir Tho. Muddiford's Plantation at the Angells where at that time were Otta and Cacao-Trees growing and fording a pretty large River we past by the side of it 2 or 3 Miles up the stream there being high Mountains on each side The way to 16 Mile-walk was formerly a great deal about round a large Mountain till Mr. Cary Helliar the Collonel's Brother found out this way For being desirous of making out a shorter cut he and some others coasted along the River till they found it run between a Rock that stood up perpendicularly steep on each side and with much difficulty they climbed over it But a Dog that belonged to them finding a hole to creep through the Rock suggested to them that there was a hollow Passage and he clear'd it by blowing up the Rock with Gunpowder till he had made a way through it broad enough for a Horse with a Pack and high enough for a Man to Ride through This is called the Hollow Rock Some other Places he levell'd and madeit an indifferent good Passage He was a very Ingenious Gentleman and doubtless had he lived might have propagated some advantagious Arts on that Island He was once endeavouring to make Salt Petre at the Angells but did not bring it to Perfection Whether the Earth there was not right I know not but probably there may be Salt-Petre-Earth in other Places especially about Passage-Fort where as I have been informed the Canes will not make good Sugar by Reason of the saltness of the Soil I liv'd with Mr. Whalley at 16 Mile-walk for almost six Months and then entred my self into the Service of one Captain Heming to manage his Plantation at St. Anns on the Northside of the Island and accordingly rode from St. Jago de la Vega toward St. Anns. This Road has but sorry Accommodations for Travellers The first Night I lay at a poor Hunters Hut at the foot of Mount Diabolo on the South side of it where for want of Cloaths to cover me in the Night I was very cold when the Land-wind sprang up This Mountain is part of the great Ridge that runs the length of the Island from East to West to the East 't is call'd the Blew Mountain which is higher than this The next Day crossing Mount Diabolo I got a hard Lodging at the Foot of it on the North side and the third day after arrived at Captain Heming's Plantation I was clearly out of my Element there and therefore as soon as Captain Heming came thither I disingaged my self from him and took my passage on Board a Sloop to Port-Royal with one Mr. Statham who used to Trade round the Island and touched there at that time From Port-Royal I sail'd with one Mr. Fishook who traded to the North-side of the Island and sometimes round it And by those coasting Voyages I came acquainted with all the Ports and Bays about Jamaica and with all their Manufactures as also with the Benefit of the Land and Sea-winds For our Business was to bring Goods to or carry them from Planters to Port-Royal and we were always entertained civilly by them both in their Houses and Plantations having Liberty to walk about and view them They gave us also Plantains
Islands lying in the Lat. of about 23 d. North and distant from the Coast of Jucatan about 25 Leagues the biggest is not above a Mile or two in Circuit They are distant from one another 2 or 3 Miles not lying in a Line but soattering here and there with good Channels of 20 or 30 Fathom Water for a Ship to pass between All of them have good Anchoring on the West sides where you may ride in what depths you please from 10 to 2 Fathom Water clean sandy Ground On some there are a few low Bushes of Burton-Wood but they are mostly Barren and Sandy bearing nothing but only a little Chicken-Weed neither have they any fresh Water Their Land-Animals are only large Rats which are in great Plenty and of Fowls Boobies in vast abundance with Men of War and Egg-Birds These inhabit only on some of the Northermost of them not promiscuously one among another but each sort within their own Precincts viz. the Boobies and the other two sorts each a-part by themselves and thus two or three of the Islands are wholly taken up The Boobies being most numerous have the greatest portion of Land The Egg-Birds tho' they are many yet being but small take up but little room to the rest Yet in that little part which they inhabit they are sole Masters and not disturbed by their Neighbours All three sorts are very tame especially the Boobies and so thick settled that a Man cannot pass through their Quarters without coming within reach of their Bills with which they continually peck't at us I took notice that they sate in Pairs and therefore at first thought them to be Cock and Hen but upon striking at them one flew away from each place and that which was left behind seemed as malicious as the other that was gone I admired at the boldness of those that did not fly away and used some sort of violence to force them but in vain for indeed these were young Ones and had not yet learned the use of their Wings tho' they were as big and as well feathered as their Dams only their Feathers were something whiter and fresher I took notice that an old one either the Cock or Hen always sat with the Young to secure them for otherwise these Fowls would prey on each other the Strong on the Weak at least those of a different Kind would make bold with their Neighbours The Men-of-War-Birds as well as the Boobies left Guardians to the Young when they went off to Sea lest they should be starved by their Neighbours for there were a great many old and lame Men of War Birds that could not fly off to Sea to seek their own Food These did not inhabit among their Consorts but were either expelled the Community or else chose to lye out at some distance from the rest and that not altogether but scattering here and there where they could rob securest I saw near 20 of them on one of the Islands which sometimes would sally into the Camp to seek for Booty but presently retreated again whether they got any thing or nothing If one of these lame Birds found a Young Booby not guarded it presently gave him a good poult on the back with his Bill to make him disgorge which they will do with one stroak and it may be cast up a Fish or two as big as a Mans Wrist this they swallow in a trice and march off and look out for another Prize The sound Men-of-War will sometimes serve the old Boobies so off at Sea I have seen a Man-of-War fly directly at a Booby and give it one blow which has caused it to cast up a large Fish and the Man of War flying directly down after it has taken it in the Air before it reach'd the Water There are abundance of Fish at some distance from these Islands by which the Fowls inhabiting here are daily supplied The Fish near the Island are Sharks Sword Fishes and Nurses all three sorts delighting to be near sandy Bays those that I saw here were but of a small size the Sword-Fish not above a Foot and a half or two Foot long neither were the Sharks much longer and the Nurses about the same length The Nurse is just like a Shark only its skin is rougher and is used for making the finest Rasps Here are many Seals they come up to sun themselves only on two or three of the Islands I don't know whether exactly of the same kind with those in colder Climates but as I have noted in my former Book they always live where there is plenty of Fish To the North of these Islands lyes a long ledge of Rocks bending like a Bow it seems to be 10 or 12 Yards wide and about 4 Leagues long and 3 Leagues distant from the Island They are above Water all joyning very close to one another except at one or two Places where are small Passages about nine or ten Yards Wide 't was through one of these that Providence directed us in the Night for the next Morning we saw the Riff about half a Mile to the North of us and right against us was a small Gap by which we came in hither but coming to view it more nearly with our Boat we did not dare to venture out that way again One Reason why we would have gone out to the Northward was because from our Main-top we saw the Islands to the Southward of us and being unacquainted knew not whether we might find among them a Channel to pass through our second reason was the hopes of making a better slant in for the shore if we could weather the East end of the Riff In order to this we weighed Anchor keeping down by the side of the Riff till we were at the West end of it which was about a League from where we Anchored then we stood off to the North and there kept plying off and on to Weather the East end of the Riff three Days but not being able to effect it by reason of a strong Current setting to the N. W. we ran back again to the West end of the Riff and steered away for the Islands There we Anchored and lay three or four days and visited most of them and found plenty of such Creatures as I have already described Though here was great store of such good Food and we like to want yet we did neither salt any nor spend of it fresh to save our Stock I found them all but one Man averse to it but I did heartily wish them of another mind because I dreaded wanting before the end of the Voyage a hazard which we needed not to run there being here such plenty of Fowls and Seals especially of the latter that the Spaniards do often come hither to make Oyl of their Fat upon which account it has been visited by English men from Jamaica particularly by Capt. Long who having the command of a small Bark came hither purposely to make Seal-Oyl and
Pines lyes on the South side towards the West end of Cuba and is distant from it 3 or 4 Leagues Cape Corientes on Cuba is five or six Leagues to the Westward of the Isle of Pines Between Pines and Cuba are many small woody Islands scattered here and there with Channels for Ships to pass between and by report there is good anchoring near any of them Jamaica Sloops do sometimes pass through between Cuba and Pines when they are bound to Wind-ward because there the Sea is always smooth They are also certain to meet good Land-winds besides they can Anchor when they please and thereby take the benefit of the Tides and when they are got past the East end of Pines they may either stand out to Sea again or if they are acquainted among the small Islands to the East of it which are called the South Keys of Cuba they may range amongst them to the Eastward still taking the greater benefit of Land-winds and Anchoring Besides if Provision is scarce they will meet Jamaica Turtlers or else may get Turtle themselves at which many of them are expert There is also plenty of Fish of many sorts but if they are not provided with Hooks Lines or Harpoons or any other Fishing-Craft nor meet with any Turtlers Cuba will afford them Sustenance of Hog or Beef The great Inconvenience of going in the inside of Pines between it and Cuba proceeds from a Spanish Garrison of about 40 Soldiers at Cape Corientes who have a large Periago well fitted with Oars and Sails and are ready to launch out and seize any small Vessel and seldom spare the Lives as well as the Goods of those that fall into their Hands for fear of telling Tales Such Villanies are frequently practised not only here but also in several other Places of the West Indies and that too with such as came to Trade with their Country-men The Merchants and Gentry indeed are no way guilty of such Actions only the Soldiers and Rascality of the People and these do commonly consist of Mulatoes or some other sort of Copper Colour Indians who are accounted very Barbarous and Cruel The Isle of Pines is about 11 or 12 Leagues long and 3 or 4 broad The West end of it is low Mangrovy Land and within which is a Lagune of about 3 or 4 Miles wide running to the Eastward but how far I know not with a small Creek of 2 or 3 Foot Water reaching to the Sea The Lagune it self is so shallow especially near the Island that you cannot bring a Canoa within 20 or 30 Paces of the shore The South side of the Island is low flat and rocky the Rocks are perpendicularly steep towards the Sea so that there is no Anchoring on that side but at the West end very good in sandy Ground The body of the Island is high Land with many little Hills incompassing a high Pike or Mountain standing in the middle The Trees that grow here are of divers sorts most of them unknown to me Red Mangroves grow in the low swampy Land against the Sea but on the firm hilly part Pine-Trees are most plentiful of these here are great Groves of a good height and bigness streight and large enough to make Topmasts or standing Masts for small Vessels at the West end there is a pretty big River of fresh Water but no coming at it near the Sea for red Mangroves which grow so thick on both sides of it that there is no getting in among them The Land-Animals are Bullocks Hogs Dear c. here are small Savannahs for the Bullocks and Deer to feed in as well as Fruit in the Woods for the Hogs Here are also a sort of Racoons or Indian Conies and in some Places plenty of Land-Turtle and Land-Crabs of two sorts white and black Both of them make holes in the Ground like Conies where they shelter themselves all day and in the Night come out to feed they will eat Grass Herbs or such Fruit as they find under the Trees The Manchaniel Fruit which neither Bird nor Beast will taste is greedily devoured by them without doing them any harm Yet these very Crabs that feed on Manchaneel are venomous both to Man and Beast that feeds on them though the others are very good Meat The white Crabs are the largest sort some of them are as big as a Mans two Fists joyned together they are shaped like Sea-Crabs having one large Claw wherewith they will pinch very hard neither will they let go their hold though you bruise them in pieces unless you break the Claw too but if they chance to catch your Fingers the way is to lay your Hand Crab and all flat on the Ground and he will immediately loose his hold and scamper away These white ones build in wet swampy dirty Ground near the Sea so that the Tide washes into their Holes but the black Crab is more cleanly delighting to live in dry Places and makes its House in sandy Earth Black Crabs are commonly fat and full of Eggs they are also accounted the better Meat tho' both sorts are very good Here are also a great many Alligators and Crocodiles that haunt about this Island and are said to be the most daring in all the West Indies I have heard of many of their Tricks as that they have followed a Canoa and put their Noses in over the Gunnal with their Jaws wide open as if ready to devour the Men in it And that when they have been ashore in the Night near the Sea the Crocodiles have boldly come in among them and made them run from their Fire and taken away their Meat from them Therefore when Privateers are hunting on this Island they always keep Sentinels out to watch for these ravenous Creatures as duly as they do in other Places for fear of Enemies especially in the Night for fear of being devoured in their sleep The Spaniards of Cuba have here some Craules i. e. Herds of Hogs with a few Indians or Mulatoes to look after them Here are also Hunters that gain a livelihood by killing wild Hog and Beef This Island is reported to be very wet I have heard many say that it rains here more or less every day in the Year but this I suppose is a mistake for there fell no Rain about us so long as we stayed here neither did I see any appearance of it in other Places of the Island We were no sooner at an Anchor but five of us went ashore leaving only the Cook and Cabbin-Boy aboard We had but two bad fowling Pieces in the Ship those we took with us with a design to Kill Beef and Hog We went into the Lagune where we found Water enough for our Canoa and in some Places not much to spare when we were got almost over it we saw 8 or 10 Bulls and Cows feeding on the shore close by the Sea This gave us great hopes of good success We therefore rowed away aside off the
for by all likelihood we were not so far from the Island but that we might have seen it had it been clear and that the hanging of the Clouds seemed to indicate to us that the Land was obscured by them Some of them did acquiesce with me in my Opinion however 't was agreed to put away for the South Keys and accordingly we veered out our Sheets trimm'd our Sails and steered away N. N. W. I was so much dis-satisfied that I turned into my Cabbin and told them we should be all starved I could not sleep tho' I lay down for I was very much troubled to think of Fasting 3 or 4 Days or a Week having fared very hard already Indeed 't was by meer accident that our Food lasted so long for we carried two Barrels of Beef out with us to sell but 't was so bad that none would buy it which proved well for us for after our own Stock was spent this supplied us We boyled every day two Pieces of it and because our Pease were all eaten and our Flower almost spent we cut our Beef in small bits after 't was boiled and boiled it again in Water thickned with a little Flower and so eat it all together with Spoons The little Pieces of Beef were like Plums in our Hodg-podg Indeed 't was not fit to be eaten any other way for tho' it did not stink yet it was very unsavory and black without the least sign of Fat in it Bread and Flower being scarce with us we could not make Dough-boys to eat with it But to proceed I had not layn in my Cabbin above three Glasses before one on the Deck cryed out Land Land I was very glad at the News and we all immediately discerned it very plain The first that we saw was High-land which we knew to be Blewfields-Hill by a Bending or Saddle on the Top with two small Heads on each Side It bore N. E. by E. and we had the Wind at E. therefore we presently clap'd on a Wind and steered in N. N. E. and soon after we saw all the Coast being not above five or six Leagues from it We kept jogging in all the Afternoon not striving to get in to any particular place but where we could fetch there we were resolved to Anchor The next day being pretty near the shore between Blewfields-Point and Point Nigril and having the Wind large enough to fetch the latter we steered away directly thither and seeing a small Vessel about two Leagues N. W. of us making signs to speak with us by hoysing and lowring her Topsails we were afraid of her and edged in nearer the shore and about three a Clock in the Afternoon to our great joy we anchored at Nigrill having been 13 Weeks on our Passage I think never any Vessel before nor since made such Traverses in coming out of the Bay as we did having first blundred over the Alcrany Riff and then visited those Islands from thence fell in among the Colorado Shoals afterward made a trip to Grand Caymanes and lastly visited Pines tho' to no purpose In all these Rambles we got as much experience as if we had been sent out on a design As soon as we came to Anchor we sent our Boat ashore to buy Provisions to regale our selves after our long fatigue and fasting and were very busie going to drink a Bowl of Punch when unexpectedly Capt. Rawlins Commander of a small New-England Vessel that we left at Trist and one Mr. John Hooker who had been in the Bay a twelve Month cutting Logwood and was now coming up to Jamaica to sell it came aboard and were invited into the Cabbin to drink with us the Bowl had not yet been touch'd I think there might be six Quarts in it but Mr. Hooker being drunk to by Captain Rawlins who pledg'd Capt. Hudswell and having the Bowl in his hand said That he was under an Oath to drink but three Draughts of strong Liquor a Day and putting the Bowl to his Head turn'd it off at one Draught and so making himself drunk disappointed us of our Expectations till we made another Bowl The next day having a brisk N. W. Wind which was a kind of a Chocolatta North we arrived at Port-Royal and so ended this troublesom Voyage CHAP. II. The Author's second Voyage to the Bay of Campeachy His arrival at the Isle of Trist and setling with the Logwood-Cutters A Description of the Coast from Cape Condecedo to Trist. Salinas or Salt Ponds Salt gathered for the Spaniards by the Indians Hina a remarkable Hill Horse-hoof-fish The Triangle Islands Campeachy Town twice taken It s chief Trade Cotton Champeton River and its Logwood a rich Commodity Port-Royal Harbour and Island Prickly-Grass Sapadillo Trees Trist Island described Coco-Plum-bushes The Grape-Tree Its Animals Lizards Laguna Termina and its strong Tides Summasenta River and Chucquebull Town Serles his Key Captain Serles his Adventure The East and West Lagunes with their Branches inhabited by Logwood-Cutters Oaks growing there and no where else within the Tropicks The Original of the Logwood-Trade The Rainy Season and great Floods occasioned by Norths The dry Season Wild Pine-Plant The Logwood-Tree Blood-Wood Stock Fish-Wood and Camwood A Description of some Animals Squashes large long-tail'd Monkies Ant-bears Sloths Armadillos Tigre Catts Snakes of three sorts Calliwasps Huge Spiders Great Ants and their Nests Rambling Ants Humming Birds Black-Birds Turtle Doves Quams Corresos Carrion Crows Subtle Jacks Bill-Birds Cockrecos Ducks of several sorts Curlews Herons Crabcatchers Pelicans Cormorants Fishing Hawks Several sorts of Fish Tenpounders Parricootas Garr-Fish Spanish Mackril The Ray Alligators Crocodiles how they differ from Alligators A narrow escape of an Irish-man from an Alligator IT was not long after our Arrival at Port-Royal before we were pay'd off and discharged Now Captain Johnson of New-England being bound again into the Bay of Campeachy I took the opportunity of going a Passenger with him being resolved to spend some time at the Logwood-Trade and accordingly provided such Necessaries as were required about it viz. Hatchets Axes Macheats i. e. Long Knives Saws Wedges c. a Pavillion to sleep in a Gun with Powder and shot c. and leaving a Letter of Attorney with Mr. Fleming a Merchant of Port-Royal as well to dispose of any thing that I should send up to him as to remit to me what I should order I took leave of my Friends and Imbarked About the middle of Feb. 75 6. We sailed from Jamaica and with a fair Wind and Weather soon got as far as Cape Catoch and there met a pretty strong North which lasted two days After that the Trade settled again at E. N. E. which speedily carryed us to Trist Island In a little time I setled my self in the West Creek of the West Lagune with some old Logwood-Cutters to follow the Employment with them But I shall proceed no farther with the Relation of my own Affairs till I have given a description of the
and then Landing walk'd one Mile through the Woods before we came into the Savannah and marched about 2 Miles in it before we came up with any Game Here I gave my Companions the slip and wandred so far into the Woods that I lost my self neither could I find the way into the open Savannah but instead of that ran directly from it through small Spots of Savannahs and Skirts of Woods This was sometime in May and it was between ten a Clock and one when I began to find that I was as we call it 〈◊〉 suppose from the Spaniards Morooned or Lost and quite out of the Hearing of my Comrades Guns I was somewhat surprized at this but however 〈◊〉 knew I should find my way out as soon as the Suâ—… was a little lower So I sat down to rest my self resolving however to run no farther out of my way for the Sun being so near the Zenith I could not distinguish how to direct my Course Being wearâ—… and almost faint for want of Water I was forced to have recourse to the wild Pines and was by them supplied or else I must have perish'd with Thirst. About three a Clock I went due North aâ—… near as I could judge for the Savannah lay East and West and I was on the South side of it At Sun-set I got out into the clear open Savannah being about two Leagues wide in most Places but how long I know not It is well stored with Bullocks but by frequent Hunting they grow shy and remove farther up into the Country Here 〈◊〉 found my self four or five Mile to the West 〈◊〉 the Place where I stragled from my Companions I made homewards with all the speed I could but being overtaken by the Night I lay down on the Grass a good distance from the Woods for the benefit of the Wind to keep the Muskitoes from me but in vain for in less than an Hours time I was so persecuted that though I endeavoured to keep them off by Fanning my self with Boughs and shifting my Quarters 3 or 4 times yet still they haunted me so that I could get no sleep A Day break I got up and directed my Course to thâ—… Creek where we landed from which I was theâ—… about two Leagues I did not see one Beast of any sort whatever in all the way though the day before I saw several Young Calves that could not follow their Dams but even these were now gone away to my great Vexation and Disappointment for I was very hungry But about a Mile farther I spied ten or twelve Quams perching on the Boughs of a Cotton-Tree These were not shy therefore I got well enough under them and having a single Bullet but no Shot about me fired at one of them but miss'd it though I had before often kill'd them so Then I came up with and fired at 5 or 6 Turkies but with no better success So that I was forced to march forward still in the Savannah toward the Creek and when I came to the Path that led to it through the Woods I found to my great Joy a Hat stuck upon a Pole and when I came to the Creek I found another These were set up by my Consorts who were gone home in the Evening as Signals that they would come and fetch me Therefore I sat down and waited for them for although I had then not above three Leagues home by Water yet it would have been very difficult if not impossible for me to have got thither over Land by reason of those vast unpassable Thickets abounding every where along the Creeks side wherein I have known some puzzled for two or three days and have not advanced half a Mile though they laboured extreamly every day Neither was I disappointed of my hopes for within half an Hour after my arrival at the Creek my Consorts came bringing every Man his Bottle of Water and his Gun both to hunt for Game and to give me notice by Firing that I might hear them for I have known several Men lost in the like manner and never heard of afterwards Such an Accident befel one Captain Hall of New-England who came hither in a Boston Ship to take in Logwood and was fraighted by two Scotch-men and one Mr. W. Cane an Irish-man who designing to go with Goods from Jamaica to New-England for that reason when his Logwood was aboard tarried at Trist with the Ship and hunted once in 2 or three Days for Beef to lengthen out his Salt-Provision One Morning the Captain designing to Hunt took five of his Men with his Mate as also his Merchant Mr. Cane along with him They Landed at the East end of the Island which is low mangrove-Mangrove-land the Savannah is a considerable distance from the Sea and therefore troublesom to get to it However unless they would row four or five Leagues farther they could not find a more convenient place beside they doubted not of Mr. Canes skill to conduct them After they had followed him a Mile or two into the Woods the Captain seeing him to make a Halt as being in some doubt to consider of the way told him in derision that he was but a sorry Woodsman and that he would swing him but twice round and he should not guess the way out again and saying no more to him went forwards and bid his Seamen follow him which they did accordingly Mr. Cane after he had recollected himself struck off another way and desired them to go with him But instead of that they were all for following the Captain In a short time Mr. Cane got out of the Woods into the Savannah and there kill'd a good fat Cow and quartering it made it fit for Carriage supposing the Captain and Crew would soon be with him But after waiting 3 or 4 hours and firing his Gun several times without hearing any Answer took up his Burden and returned towards the Sea-side and upon giving a Signal a Boat came and brought him aboard In the mean time the Captain and his Men after 4 or 5 Hours ranging the Woods began to grow fired then his Mate hastily trusting more to his own Judgment left him and the four Seamen and about four or five a Clock being almost spent with Thirst got out of the Woods to the Sea shore and as weak as he was fired his Gun for the Boat to fetch him which was immediately done When he came Aboard he gave an Account whereabout and in what a condition he left the Captain and his Men but it being then too late to seek him the next Morning very early Mr. Cane and two Seamen taking Directions from the Mate who was so fatigued that he could not stir where he had left the Captain went ashore and at length came within call of him and at last found him layd down in a Thicket having just sense to call out sometimes but not strength enough to stand so they were forced to carry him to the Sea-side
observed his Method in curing the Horse which was this First he strok'd the sore Place then applying to it a little rough Powder which looked like Tobacco Leaves dryed and crumbled small mumbling some Words to himself he blew upon the part three times and waving his Hands as often over it said it would be well speedily His Fee for the Cure was a White Cock Then coming to me and looking on the Worm in my Ancle he promised to cure it in three Days demanding also a White Cock for his pains and using exactly the same Method with me as he did with the Horse He bad me not open it in three Days but I did not stay so long for the next Morning the Cloath being rubb'd off I unbound it and found the Worm broken off and the Hole quite healed up I was afraid the remaining part would have given some trouble but have not felt any pain there from that day to this To return I told you how I was interrupted in following my Work by the Worms breeding in my Leg. And to compleat my misfortune presently after we had the most violent Storm for above 24 Hours that ever was known in these Parts An Account of which I shall give more particularly in my Discourse of Winds and shall now only mention some Passages I have already said we were four of us in Company at this Place cutting Logwood and by this Storm were reduced to great Inconveniencies for while that lasted we could dress no Victuals nor even now it was over unless we had done it in the Canoa for the highest Land near us was almost 3 Foot under Water besides our Provision too was most of it spoiled except the Beef and Pork which was but little the worse We had a good Canoa large enough to carry us all and seeing it in vain to stay here any longer we all embarked and rowed away to One-Bush-Key about 4 Leagues from our Huts There were 4 Ships riding here when the Storm began but at our arrival we found only one and hoped to have got some Refreshment from it but found very cold entertainment For we could neither get Bread nor Punch nor so much as a Dram of Rum though we offered them Money for it The Reason was they were already over-charged with such as being distressed by the Storm had been forced to take Sanctuary with them seeing we could not be supplied here we asked which way the other three Ships were driven they told us that Capt. Prout of New-England was driven towards Trist and 't was probable he was carried out to Sea unless he stuck on a Sand called the Middle Ground that Capt. Skinner of New-England was driven towards Beef-Island and Captain Chandler of London drove away towards Man-of-War Lagune Beef-Island lies North from One-Bush-Key but the other two Places lie a little on each side One to the East the other to the West So away we went for Beef-Island and coming within a League of it we saw a Flag in the Woods made fast to a Pole and placed on the Top of a high Tree And coming still nearer we at last saw a Ship in the Woods about 200 Yards from the Sea We rowed directly towards her and when we came to the Woods side found a pretty clear Passage made by the Ship through the Woods the Trees being all broke down And about three Foot Water Home to the Ship We rowed in with our Canoa and went Aboard and were kindly Entertained by the Seamen but the Captain was gone Aboard Captain Prout who stuck fast on the middle Ground before-mentioned Captain Prout's Ship was afterwards got off again but the Stumps of the Trees ran clear through the bottom of Captain Skinner's therefore there was no hope of saving her Here we got Victuals and Punch and stayed about two Hours in which time the Captain came Aboard and invited us to stay all Night But hearing some Guns fired in Man-of-War Lagune we concluded that Captain Chandler was there and wanted assistance Therefore we presently rowed away thither for we could do no Service here and before Night found him also stuck fast on a Point of Sand. The Head of his Ketch was dry and at the Stern there was above 4 Foot Water Our coming was very seasonable to Captain Chandler with whom we stayed two Days in which time we got out all his Goods carried off his Anchor c. and so not being able as yet to do him more Service we left him for the present and went away to hunt at Beef-Island At Trist were four Vessels riding before this Storm one of them was driven off to Sea and never heard of afterwards Another was cast dry upon the shore where she lay and was never got off again But the third rode it out Another was riding without the Bar of Trist and she put to Sea and got to New-England but much shattered About three days before this Storm began a small Vessel Commanded by Captain Vally went hence bound to Jamaica This Vessel was given for lost by all the Logwood-Cutters but about 4 Months after she returned thither again and the Captain said he felt nothing of the Storm but when he was about 30 Leagues to Wind-ward of Trist he had a fresh Summasenta-Wind that carried him as high as Cape Condecedo but all the time he saw very black Clouds to the Westward beef-Beef-Island is about 7 Leagues long and 3 or 4 broad It lies in length East and West The East end looks toward the Island Trist and is low drowned Land and near the Sea produceth nothing but white and black Mangrove-Trees The North side lies open to the Main Sea running straight from East to West The Eastermost part for about three Leagues from Trist is Low and Mangrovy at the end of which there is a small salt Creek deep enough at high Water for Boats to pass From this Creek to the West end is 4 Leagues all sandy Bay closed on the backside with a low Sand-bank abounding with thick prickly Bushes like a White-thorn bearing a whitish hard Shell-Fruit as big as a Sloe much like a Calla-bash The West end is washed with the River St. Peter St. Paul This end is over-grown with red Mangroves About 3 Leagues up from the Mouth of this River shoots forth a small Branch running to the Eastward and dividing Beef-Island form the Main on the South and afterwards makes a great Lake of fresh Water called Fresh Water Lagune This afterward falls into a Salt Lake called Man-of-War Lagune which emptys it self into Laguna Termina about 2 Leagues from the S. E. Point of the Island The inside or middle of this Island is a Savannah bordered all round with Trees most Mangrovy either black white or red with some Logwood The South side between the Savannahs and the Mangroves is very rich Sometimes this Land lyes in Ridges higher than the Savannahs The Savannahs produce plenty of long Grass and the Ridges
of Cattle belonging to an Indian Village In the Woods on each side this River there are plenty of Guanoes Land-Turtle and abundance of Quams and Corresos with some Parrots and there is no Settlement nearer than the Beef Estantion nor any thing else remarkable in this River that I know A League West from Checapeque there is another small River called Dos Boccas 't is only fit for Canoas to enter It has a Bar at its Mouth and therefore is somewhat dangerous Yet the Privateers make light of it for they will govern a Canoa very ingeniously However Captain Rives and Captain Hewet two Privateers lost several Men here in coming out for there had been a North which had raised the Bar and in going out most of their Canoas were over-set and some Men drowned This River wlll not float a Canoa above a League within its Mouth and so far is salt but there you meet with a fine clear Stream of fresh Water about a League up in the Country and beyond this are fair Savannahs of long Grass fenced in with Ridges of as rich Land as any in the World The Mold such as is formerly described all plain and level even to the Hills of Chiapo There are no Indian Towns within 4 or 5 Leagues of the Sea but further off they are pretty thick lying within a League 2 or 3 one of another Halpo is the chiefest The Indians make use of no more Land than serves to maintain their Families in Maiz and to pay their Taxes And therefore between the Towns it lies uncultivated In all this Country they rear abundance of Poultry Viz. Turkies Ducks and Dunghil Fowls but some of them have Cacao-Walks The Cacao of these Parts is most of it sent to Villa de Mose and ship'd off there Some of it is sold to Carriers that travail with Mules coming hither commonly in Nov. or Dec. and staying till Febr. or March They lye a Fortnight at a time in a Village to dispose of their Goods which are commonly Hatchets Macheats Axes Hoes Knives Cizars Needles Thread Silk for sowing Womens Frocks small Looking-glasses Beads Silver or Copper Rings wash'd with Gold set with Glass instead of Stones small Pictures of Saints and such like Toys for the Indians And for the Spaniards Linnen and Woollen Cloaths Silks Stockings and old Hats new dress'd which are here very valuable and worn by those of the best Quality so that an old English Beaver thus ordered would be worth 20 Dollars so much is Trade wanted here in this Country When he has sold off his Goods he is generally paid in Cacao which he carries to La Vera Cruz. From Dos Boccas to the River Palmas is 4 Leagues low Land and sandy Bay between From Palmas to the Halover is 2 Leagues The Halover is a small Neck of Land parting the Sea from a large Lagune It is so call'd by the Privateers because they use to drag their Canoas in and out there From the Halover to St. Anns is 6 Leagues St. Anns is a Mouth that opens the Lagune before mentioned there is not above 6 or 7 Foot Water yet Barks often go in there to Careen From St. Anns to Tondelo is 5 Leagues The Coast still West the Land low and sandy Bay against the Sea a little within which are pretty high Sand-Banks cloathed with prickly Bushes such as I have already described at beef-Beef-Island Against the Sea near the West end within the Sand Bank the Land is lower again the Woods not very high and some spots of Savannahs with plenty of fat Bullocks In Hunting of which a Frenchman unhappily lost his Life For his Company being stragled from him to find Game he unluckily met a Drove of Cattle flying from them in the Woods which were so thick that there was no passing but in these very narrow Paths that the Cattle themselves had made so that not being able to get out of their way the foremost of the Drove thrust his Horns into his Back and carried him a 100 Paces into the Savannah where he fell down with his Guts trailing on the Ground The River Tondeloe is but narrow yet capable to receive Barks of 50 or 60 Tuns there is a Bar at the Entrance and the Channel crooked On the West side of the Bar there is a spit of Sand shoots out therefore to avoid it at your coming in you must keep the East side aboard but when once entred you may run up for two or three Leagues on the East side a quarter of a Mile within the Mouth you may lie secure but all this Coast and especially this River intolerably swarms with Musketoes that there is no sleeping for them About 4 or 5 Leagues from the Mouth this River is fordable and there the Road crosses it where two French Canoas that lay in this River intercepted the Caravan of Mules laden with Cacao that was returning to La Vera Cruz taking away as much as they could carry with them From Tondeloe River to the River of Guasickwalp is 8 Leagues more the Coast still West all along sandy Bay and sand-Hills as between St. Anns and Tondeloe only towards the West part the Bank is lower and the Trees higher This is one of the Principal Rivers of this Coast 't is not half the breadth of the Tobasco River but deeper It s Bar is less dangerous than any on this Coast having 14 foot Water on it and but little Sea Within the Bar there is much more and soft Oasie ground The Banks on both sides are low The East side is woody and the West side Savannah Here are some Cattle but since it has been frequented by Privateers the Spaniards have driven most of their Bullocks from hence farther into the Country This River hath its rise near the South Sea and is Navigable a great way into Land especially with Boats or small Barks The River Teguantapeque that falls into the South Seas hath its Origine near the Head of Guasickwalp and it is reported that the first Naval Stores for the Manila Ships were sent through the Country from the North to the South Seas by the conveniency of these two Rivers whose Heads are not above 10 or 12 Leagues asunder I heard this discoursed by the Privateers long before I visited the South Seas and they seemed sometimes minded to try their Fortunes this way supposing as many do still that the South Sea shore is nothing but Gold and Silver But how grosly they are mistaken I have satisfied the World already And for this part of the Country though it is rich in Land yet it has not the least appearance of any Mine neither is it thick inhabited with Spaniards And if I am not deceived the very Indians in the heart of the Country are scarce their Friends The Town of note on the S. Sea is Teguantapeque and on the N. Seas Keyhooca is the chiefest near this River Besides these two the Country is only inhabited by Indians
therefore it is wholly unfrequented by Shipping Keyhooca is a large rich Town of good Trade about 4 Leagues from the River Guasickwalp on the West side It is inhabited with some few Spaniards and abundance of Mulatoes These keep many Mules they being most Carriers and frequently visit the Cacao Coast for Nuts and travel the Country between Villa de Mose and La Vera Cruz. This Country is pleasant enough in the dry Season but when the furious North Winds rage on the Coast and violently drive in the Sea it suffers extreamly being so much overflown that there is no travelling It was in the wet Season when Capt. Rives and Capt. Hewet made an Expedition in Canoas from the Island Trist to the River Guasickwalp and there Landed their Men designing to attack Keyhooca but the Country was so wet that there was no Marching neither was the Water high enough for a Canoa Here are great plenty of Vinellos From the River Guasickwalp the Land runs West 2 or 3 Leagues all low Land with sandy Bay to the Sea and very woody in the Country About three Leagues to the West of it the Land trends away to the North for about 16 Leagues rising higher also even from the very shore as you go up within Land making a very high Promontory called St. Martins Land but ending in a pretty bluff Point which is the West Bounds of the Bay of Campeachy From this blunt Point to Alvarado is about 20 Leagues the first four of it a high rocky shore with steep Cliffs to the Sea and the Land somewhat woody Afterwards you pass by very high Sand-hills by the Sea and an extraordinary great Sea falls in on the shore which hinders any Boats from Landing Within the Sand-hills again the Land is lower pretty plain and fruitful enough in large Trees The River of Alvarado is above a Mile over at the Mouth yet the entrance is but shole there being Sands for near two Mile off the shore clear from side to side nevertheless there are two Channels through these Sands The best which is in the middle has 12 or 14 Foot Water The Land on each side of the Mouth is high Sand-banks above 200 Foot high This River comes out of the Country in three Branches meeting altogether just within the Mouth where it is very wide and deep One of these Branches comes from the Eastward Another from the Westward And the third which is the true River of Alvarado and the biggest comes directly out of the Country opposite to the Sand-hills about a Mile West of the Rivers Mouth This last springs a great way from the Sea passing through a very fertile Country thick settled with Towns of Spaniards and Indians On the West side and just against the Mouth of the River the Spaniards have a small Fort of 6 Guns on the declivity of the Sand-bank a great heighth above the River which commands a small Spanish Town on the Back of it built in a Plain close by the River It is a great Fishery chiefly for Snooks which they catch in the Lake and when they are salted and dryed drive a great Trade in Exchanging them for Salt and other Commodities Besides salt Fish they export from hence abundance of dry Cod-Pepper and some pickled and put in Jars This Pepper is known by the Name of Guinea Pepper Yet for all this Trade 't is but a poor Place and yet has been often taken by the Privateers chiefly to secure their Ships while they should go up in their Canoas to the rich Towns within Land which notwithstanding they never yet attempted by reason that La Vera Cruz bordering so near they were still afraid of being attacqued both by Sea and Land from thence and so never durst prosecute their designs on the Country Towns Six Leagues West from Alvarado there is another large Opening out into the Sea and it is reported to have a Communication by a small Creek with this River of Alvarado and that Canoas may pass through it from one River to the other And at this Opening is a small Fishing Village The Land by the Sea is a continued high Sand-bank and so violent a Sea that it is impossible to Land with Boat or Canoa From this River to La Vera Cruz is 6 Leagues more the Coast still West There is a Riff of Rocks runs along the shore from Alvarado to Vera Cruz yet a good Channel for small Vessels to pass between it and the shore And about two Leagues to the East of Vera Cruz are two Islands called Sacrifice Islands I have set down the distance between Alvarado and La Vera Cruz according to the Common Account of 12 Leagues which I take to be truer but our Draughts make it 24. The Land by the Sea is much the same La Vera Cruz is a fair Town seated in the very bottom of the Bay of Mexico at the S. W. Point or Corner of the Bay for so far the Land runs West and there it turns about to the North. There is a good Harbour before it made by a small Island or Rock rather just in its Mouth which makes it very Commodious Here the Spaniards have built a strong Fort which commands the Harbour and there are great Iron Rings fix'd in the Fort-Wall against the Harbour for Ships to fasten their Cables For the North Winds blow so violently here in their Seasons that Ships are not safe at Anchors This Fort is called St. John d'Ulloa and the Spaniards do frequently call the Town of Vera Cruz by this Name The Town is a Place of great Trade being the Sea-Port to the City of Mexico and most of the great Towns and Cities in this Kingdom So that all the European Commodities spent in these Parts are Landed here and their Goods brought hither and Exported from hence Add to this that all the Treasure brought from Manila in the East Indies comes hither through the Country from Accapulca The Flota comes hither every three Years from Old Spain and besides Goods of the Product of the Country and what is brought from the East Indies and ship'd aboard them The King's Plate that is gathered in this Kingdom together with what belongs to the Merchants amounts to a vast Summ. Here also comes every Year the Barralaventa Fleet in October or November and stays till March. This is a small Squadron consisting of 6 or 7 Sail of stout Ships from 20 to 50 Guns These are ordered to visit all the Spanish Sea-Port Towns once every Year chiefly to hinder Foreigners from Trading and to suppress Privateers From this Port they go to the Havana on the North side of Cuba to sell their Commodities From hence they pass through the Gulph of Florida standing so far to the North as to be out of the Trade-Winds which are commonly between 30 d. and 40 d. of Lat. and being in a variable Winds-way they stretch away to the Eastwards till they may fetch Portarica if
North of the Line and the Monsoons on the South of the Line is that in April when the West Monsoon sets in to the North of the Line the S. S. W. Winds sets in to the South of the Line and is called the S. S. W. Monsoon And in September when the East Monsoon sets in to the North of the Line the N. N. E. Wind blows in South Lat. and is called the N. N. E. Monsoon And whereas the West Monsoon is accompanied with Tornadoes and Rain in North Lat. the S. S. W. Monsoon which blows at the same time in South Lat. is accompanied with fair Weather And as the East Monsoon is attended with fair Weather in North Lat. the N. N. E. Monsoon which blows at the same time in South Lat. is attended with Tornadoes and very bad Weather And though these Winds do not shift exactly at one time in all Years yet Sept. and Apr. are always accounted the turning Months and do commonly participate of both sorts of Winds For these Monsoons do as constantly shift by turns as the Year comes about And by means of this change of Wind Ships have the benefit to sail from one part of India with one Wind and return with the contrary So that most of the Navigation in India depends on the Monsoons And Ships do constantly wait for these Changes and the Merchants fit out to any Place according as the Season of the Year draws on And wheresoever they go they certainly dispatch their business so as to return back again with the next or contrary Monsoon For here is no sailing to and from any Place but with the Monsoon One carries them out the other brings them back Neither do I know how it were possible for Merchants in these Parts to Trade by Sea from one Country to another were it not for these shifting Monsoons For as I have said before most of the Trading Kingdoms in India do lye between the Line and the Tropick of Cancer And the Land lies so to the North that Ships cannot go to the North of the Tropick and by that means get into a variable Winds way as they may and do in the West Indies when they are bound far to the Eastward Neither could it be any advantage to stand off to Sea as they may in the South Sea for that would be of little moment because they would then come so near the Line that they would be always lyable to Tornadoes and Calms And should they cross the Line and run to the Southward of it thinking that way to gain their Passage it is likely they might succeed no better there For that part of the Sea which lies to the Southward of the Line is open and free to the true Trade which seldom fails But indeed that VVind would carry them to the Southward quite beyond the Trade into a variable Winds-way But the Sea is not open there for Ships to pass so far to the Eastward as to gain their Ports For our East India Ships that are bound to Siam Tunqueen China c. cannot get thither but in the Season of the West Monsoon though they go directly from England and though after they are past the Cape they have the convenience to stretch to the Eastward as far as the Land will permit yet they cannot go so far as is convenient before they will be obliged to steer down within the Course of the Trade-Winds which would obstruct their Passage if they were as constant here as in other Places And therefore if these Anniversary Monsoons did not constantly succeed each other Ships could not pass but one way they might sail to the Westward but there they must lye up or be 3 or 4 Years in their return from a place which may be sailed in 6 Weeks yet I say that to Places near each other Ships may and do very often sail against the Monsoon and that with success For here are Sea and Land Breezes under the shore and in many Places good Anchoring by which means Ships may stop when they find the Current against them But Voyages of a great distance cannot be made only with Land and Sea-Winds without some other helps In the W. Indies we have these helps of Land-Winds and Sea-Breezes by which we sail from one place to another provided they are no great distance a sunder and perform our Voyages well enough but when we are to sail a great way to the Eastward against the Trade-Wind then we are forced as is said before either to pass thro' the Gulph of Florida if we are far to Leeward or else to pass between the Islands and so stretch away to the Northward till we are clear out of the Trade and so get our Longitude that way So in the South Seas also and on the Coasts of Guinea the Coast of Brazil and the Coast of Africa between the Cape of good Hope and the Red-Sea there are Sea and Land Breezes which may be made use of to sail against the Trade if the Voyages be short But when we are to sail a great way against the Trade-Wind we must not wholly depend on the Sea and Land Breezes for then we should be a long time in accomplishing such Voyages In such Cases we have recourse to other helps such as Providence has supplied these Seas with which seems to be wanting in the East Indies as for example in the South Seas on the Coast of Peru where the Southerly Winds blow constantly all the Year there Ships that are bound to the Southward stretch off to the Westward till they are out of the Coasting Trade-Wind and there meet with the true Trade at E. S. E. with which they sail as far as they please to the Southward and then steer in for their Port. So on the Coast of Mexico where the Coasting Trade is Westerly there they run off to Sea till they meet the true E. N. E. Trade and then stretch away to the Northward as far as their Port and Ships that come from the Philipines bound for the Coast of Mexico stretch away to the North as far as 40 degrees to get a Wind to bring them on the Coast. Thus also all Ships bound to the East Indies after they are past the Line in the Atlantick Ocean stretch away to the Southward beyond the Trade and then stand over to the Eastward towards the Cape so in returning home after they have crost the Line to the Northward they steer away North with the Wind at E. N. E. till they are to the Northward of the Trade-Wind and then direct their Course Easterly All Guinea Ships and West India Ships do the same in their returns And this is the Benefit of an open Sea But to return The Monsoones among the East India Islands that lye to the Southward of the Line as I said before are either at N. N. E. or S. S. W. These also keep time and shift as the Monsoones do to the North of
which places I have travelled over from Sea to Sea yet because these are but small Tracts of Land in comparison with the two main Bodies of Land of Mexico and Peru and those vast Regions in Asia and Africa lying within the Tropicks I cannot determine whether the Land-Winds are there as I have found them in my small Travels therefore I shall only confine this particular Discourse to these and other Places within my own Observations I shall begin first with the Isthmus of Darien there I have found the Land-Winds in the middle of the Country blowing all Night and till 10 or 11 a Clock in the Morning before I could perceive the Sea-Breeze to arise and that not discernable many times but by the flying of the Clouds especially if I was in a Valley and it was in Vallies that I did chiefly perceive the Land-Winds which blew in some places one way in others contrary or side ways to that according as the Vallies lay pend up between the Mountains and that without any respect to either the North or the South Seas but indeed near either side of the Land they always bent their course towards the nearest Sea unless there was any Hill between them and the Sea and then they took their Course along in the Vallies but from both shores as well from the North as the South they blow right forth into the Sea In the Island of Jamaica these Land-Winds are in the middle of the Country also I have found them so as I travelled from one side of the Island to the other having lain 2 Nights by the way as I had before observed them when I liv'd at 16 Miles Walk where I continued about 6 Months but there and in other Islands the Land-Winds do blow towards the nearest shores and so from thence off to Sea whether the shore's lye East West North or South These Winds blow off to Sea a greater or less distance according as the Coast lies more or less exposed to the Sea-Winds For in some Places we find them brisk 3 or 4 Leagues off shore in other Places not so many Miles and in some Places they scarce peep without the Rocks or if they do sometimes in very fair Weather make a sally out a Mile or 2 they are not lasting but suddenly vanish away though yet there are every Night as fresh Land-Winds ashore at those Places as in any other part of the World Places most remarkable for the fewest or faintest Land-Winds are those that lye most open to the Common Trade-Winds as the East ends of any Islands where the Trade-Winds do blow in upon the Shore or the head-Head-Lands on Islands or Continents that are open to the Sea-Breez especially where the Trade-Wind blows down side-ways by the Coast for there such head-Head-Lands as stretch farthest out to Sea are most exposed to Winds from the Sea and have the less benefit of the Land-Breezes I shall give a few Instances of either And first of all begin with the N. E. and S. E. Points of the Island of Jamaica These Points are at the East end of the Island one is at the very Extreme of the North side towards the East the other on the South Extreme towards the same Point at these two Places we seldom light of a Land-Wind nor very often at the end of the Island between them except near the shore For that Reason the Sloop-men of Jamaica that Trade round the Island are commonly put to their Trumps when they come there in their Voyages For if they meet no Land-Wind they are obliged to beat about by turning to wind-ward against the Sea-Breez in the Day time they then curse these Points of Land and are foolishly apt to believe that some Daemon haunts there And if they are 2 or 3 Days in beating about as sometimes they are when they return to Port Royal they will talk as much of their Fatigues as if they had been beating a Month to double the Cape of good Hope though indeed the Men are brisk enough and manage their sloops very well which also are generally very good Boats to sail on a Wind. I think they are the best small Trading-Boats in the King's Dominions Point Pedro on the South-side of the Island is another very bad Point to double if a Ship come from the West-end of the Island This Point runs out far into the Sea and is not only destitute of the Common Land-Winds But if there is any Current setting to Leeward here the Sloop-men meet it Therefore they are many times longer beating about it then about the two former Points of the South East and the North East and not without bestowing some Curses upon it Nay some Captains of Privateers when they have been beating about it have stood close in to the Point and fired their Guns to kill the old Daemon that they say inhabits there to disturb poor Seamen I have related these odd Passages to shew how ignorant Men are that cannot see the Reason of it And because I am not willing to leave my Reader in the dark I shall give a few Instances more on this subject The North side of Jucatan at the entrance into the Bay of Campeachy gives us another Instance of bad Land-Winds and commonly where the Land-Winds are scanty the Sea-Breezes are but indifferent neither This will partly appear by what I have observed of them on this Coast between Cape Catoach and Cape Condeseado at the entrance of the Bay of Campeachey which two places are about Eighty Leagues distant for there the Land trends East and West It is a streight Coast and lies all of it equally exposed to the Trade-VVind which is commonly there at E. N. E. To the W. of these Places the Sea and Land-VVinds do as duly succeed each other as on any other Coast but here they are each of them of a Bastard kind for the Sea-Breezes are at N. E. by E. which is no better than a Coast Trade-VVind and the Land-VVind is at E. S. E. or S. E. by E. whereas if the VVinds were as true there as on other Coasts the Sea-Breez would be at N. N. E. sometimes at N. and the Land-VVinds would be at S. S. E. and S. as they are indeed close under the shore which if they do at any time come off from they are very faint The Land on this Coast is low and even and the Land-VVinds ashore are pretty brisk The Capes on the Peruvian Coast in the South Seas will more fully make it appear that Head-Lands do seldom afford any Land-VVinds I shall only Instance in Cape Passao in Lat. 8 Minutes South Cape St. Laurence in Lat. 1 d. South and Cape Blanco in 3 d. South I have pass'd by them all several times and at different Seasons yet did never find any Land-winds there though between these Places there are very good Land-winds Therefore Ships that sail to the Southward against the Breez must beat it about by hard Labour
especially about Cape Blanco for that lyes more exposed than the other 2 and if there is any Current as commonly the Spaniards are a long time getting about sometimes a Fortnight or 3 VVeeks and when they have split their Sails which are seldom very good they run back to Guiaquill to mend them again We found it hard getting about tho' our Sails were good and I think we could work our Ships better than the Spaniards are ever able to do in those Seas I have already given several Instances of such Places as have no Land-VVinds or at least but very ordinary ones I shall next proceed in order to shew where the strongest or best Land-VVinds are met with and then I shall speak of those Places where there blows a moderate and indifferent Gale between both Extreams That so any one may judge by the Lying of the Land whether it may afford a good Land-wind or no. The briskest Land-winds are commonly in deep Bays in great Lakes within Land and among great Ranges of Islands or small Keys that lye near the shore I shall give Instances of all these And as for Bays I shall first pitch on the Bay of Campeachy which lies between Cape Condecedo and the high-High-Land of St. Martin between both these Places the Land-winds are as brisk 2 or 3 Leagues off at Sea as in any Place that I know In the Cod or Middle of the Bay the Land trends from East to VVest there the Sea-Breezes are at North and the Land-winds at South they commonly begin to blow at 7 or 8 a Clock in the Evening and continue till 8 or 9 the next Morning in the dry Season especially In that Bay there is an Island call'd by the English Beef-Island from the multitude of Bulls and Cows that inhabit it The smell of these wild Cattle is driven off to Sea by the Land-winds so fresh that by it Masters of Ships sailing in the Night on this Coast have known where they were and have presently anchored that Night and come into the Island of Trist the next Day whereas they would otherwise have past farther to the VVestward quite out of their way if they had not smell'd the strong scent of these Cattle So all the bottom of the Bay of Mexico even from the high-High-Land of St. Martin down to Lavera Cruz and from thence Northerly towards the River Meschasipi affords good Land-winds and Sea-breezes The Bay of Honduras also and almost all the Coast between it and Cape la Vela affords the like allowing for the Capes and Points of Land which lye between where it fails more or less as the Points do lye more or less exposed to the Sea-Breezes So in the South Seas the Bays of Panama Guiaquil Paita c. have their fresh Land-winds and Sea-breezes But in some Places as particularly at Paita the Land-winds do not spring up till 12 a Clock in the Night but then are always very fresh and last till 7 or 8 the next Morning and they are constant all the Year long VVhereas in the Bay of Panama and also in all the Bays and Coasts of the other or North side of America already described they are not so constant in the wet Season as they are in the dry The Bay of Campeachy will also afford us Instances of the Land-winds that blow in Lagunes As for instance the Lagune of Trist which is about 9 or 10 Leagues long and 3 broad is barricadoed from the Sea by the Island of Trist. There the Land-winds blow in the dry Season from 5 or 6 a Clock in the Evening till 9 or 10 in the Morning There are two other Lagunes lying within that and parted from it by low mangrove-Mangrove-Land there the Land-winds are fresher and the Sea-Breeze duller and of a less continuance than in the Lagune of Trist. Nay sometimes the Land-wind blows all Day so in the Lagune of Maracaybo to VVind-ward of Cape Alta Vela the Land-winds are very fresh and lasting The like may be said of the Lagune of Venizuella or Comana Sometimes in the fore-mentioned Lagunes the Land-winds do blow for 3 or 4 Days and Nights together scarce suffering the Sea-Breez to breath there though at the same time the Sea-Breez may blow fresh out at Sea and if the Sea-Breez at such times should make a bold Sally into these Lagunes it would be but of a short continuance On the other hand at Capes and Head-Lands more exposed to Sea-Breezes the Land-winds are shier of coming there than the Sea-winds are into Lagunes Neither may we forget the Harbour of Jamaica for there are very good Land-winds It is compassed in on one side with a long Neck of Sand and many small Islands at the mouth of it and within there is a pretty deep Lake in which are constant Sea and Land-winds by which the VVherry-men run with full sail both to Legamy or Passage-Fort from the Town and back again They go away with the Sea-Breez and return with the Land-wind There fore Passengers that have occasion to go either way wait for the coming of these VVinds except their Business requires hast for then they are rowed against the Breez and though the Land-winds do sometimes fail or come very late yet the VVherries seldom stay beyond their constant Hours of 7 or 8 a Clock and sometimes the Land-winds do come by 3 or 4 but when they come so early it is commonly after a Tornado from the Land This may suffice as to the Land-winds in Lakes or Bays As to what may be spoken concerning the Land-winds among Islands I shall only mention 2 Places both of them in the West Indies the first are the Keys of Cuba which are abundance of small Islands bordering on the South side of Cuba reaching in length from East to VVest or near those Points as the Island lies about 70 Leagues and in some Places reaching near 20 Leagues from the said Island Among these Islands even from the outermost of them quite home to Cuba there are very brisk Land-winds They spring up early in the Evening and blow late in the Morning The Jamaica Turtlers visit these Keys with good success for Turtle all the Year long and from thence bring most of their Turtle wherewith the Market of Port-Royal is served The other Islands I shall mention are the Sambaloe Islands betwixt Cape Samblass and Golden Island though they are not so large a Range as the Keys of Cuba yet do they afford very good Land-winds near as good as the Keys of Cuba do And thus much for the Places where the best as well as where the scantiest or faintest Land-winds are found I shall next give some Instances of the Medium between both Extreams I have already shewn that Capes and such Head-Lands as lye out farthest from the rest of the shore are thereby most exposed to the Sea-winds and consequently the Land-winds are there much fainter than in other Places especially in deep Bays or Lagunes within Land or
among Islands and small Keys near the Land All which is no more than my own Experience has taught me I shall now shew how the Land-winds blow on Coasts that do lye more level As all Coasts have their Points and bendings so accordingly the Land-winds are fresher or fainter as you come either towards these bendings or towards intermitting Points or Head-Lands I shall give an Instance of this by shewing how the VVinds are on the Coast of Caraccos It is as streight a Shore as I can pitch on yet full of small Bays divided from each other by a like number of Ridges of High-Land that shoot forth their Heads a little way without the Bays on each side There in the Night or Morning while the Land-wind blows we find fresh Gales out of the Bays but when we come abreast of the Head-Lands we find it Calm yet see the Breez curling on the VVater on both sides of us and sometimes get a spurt of it to help us forward and having recovered the VVind out of the next Bay we pass by the Mouth of it presently till we come to the next Head and there we lye becalmed as before These Bays are not above half a Mile or a Mile wide neither are the Heads much wider but these Heads of the Ridges lying in between the Bays have steep Cliffs against the Sea and where-ever I have met the like steep Cliffs against the Sea I have seldom found any Land-VVinds But in all other Places where the Bays strike deeper into the Land there we find the Land-winds more lasting and strong and where the Points are farther out there are still the less Land-winds and the brisker Sea-Breezes For the Capes and smaller Points on all shores seem to be so many Barricadoes to break off the violence of the Sea-Breezes for this we always find when we are turning to VVind-ward being to Leeward of a Cape that the Breez is moderate especially if we keep very near the shore but when once we come within a Mile more or less of the Cape and stand off to Sea as soon as we get without it we find such a hussing Breez that sometimes we are not able to ply against it but in the Night we find a fresh Land-wind to Leeward tho' when we come to the Cape we find it Calm or perhaps sometimes meet with a Sea-wind The Land-Breezes on the Coast of Guinea between Cape St. Anns and Cape Palmas mentioned in the second Chapter of this Discourse are at E. blowing brisk 4 Leagues off shore the Sea-winds there are at S. VV. The Land-winds on the Coast of Angola are at E. N. E the Sea-winds at VV. S. VV. these are very true VVinds of both kinds The Land-winds on the Coast of Peru and Mexico in the South Seas are in most Places right off from the shore else the Fisher-men could never go out to Sea as they do on Bark Loggs And as the Land-winds are true there so are the Sea-Breezes also for with the Land-wind they go out to Fish and return in again with the Sea-winds In some Places they use Seals Skins instead of Bark Loggs they are made so tight that no Bladder is tighter To these they have long Necks like the Neck of a Bladder into which they put a Pipe and blow them up as we do Bladders two of these being fastned together a Man sets a-stride them having one before and the other behind him and so sits firmer than in a Troopers Saddle His Padle is like a Quarter-staff with a broad Blade at each end with this he strikes the Sea back first on one side and then on the other with each end of his Paddle and so gives himself fresh way through the VVater In the East Indies also there are true Sea-Breezes as well on the Islands as on the main On Islands as at Bantam in the Island Java and at Achin in the Island Sumatra and in many Places on the Island Mindanao And on the main also as particularly at Fort St. George on the Coast Coromandel There the Land-winds blow right off from the shore and the Sea-winds right in but sometimes they come slanting in and about Christmas they blow from the N. E. or N. N. E. I found them so when I came on the Coast and being advised of it by Mr. Coventry in whose Sloop I then was I fell in with the Land 10 or 12 Leagues to the Northward of the Fort and had a brisk Northerly Sea-wind to bring me into the Road. I think these Instances are enough to shew how these Land-winds do usually blow in most parts of the VVorld should I be very particular 't is not a larger Treatise than I intend this to be would hold a quarter-part of it But I have been more particular in the West Indies and South Seas because these Land-winds are of more use there than in the East Indies For though sometimes Men in the East Indies do turn against the Monsoones yet they do generally tarry for them before they budge Indeed these VVinds are an extraordinary blessing to those that use the Sea in any part of the VVorld within the Tropicks for as the constant Trade-winds do blow there could be no sailing in these Seas But by the help of the Sea and Land-Breezes Ships will sail 2 or 3 hundred Leagues as particularly from Jamaica to the Lagune of Trist in the Bay of Campeachy and then back again all against the Trade-wind And I think this is one of the longest Voyages that is used of this kind If any of our Jamaica Sloops do go to Trist and design to carry their VVood to Curasao then they put through the Gulph of Florida The Spaniards also that come from any part of the Bay of Mexico and are bound to any Place to VVind-ward of the Island Cuba are wont to put through the Gulph and 10 stretch away to the Northward till they come clear of the Trade and then stand away as far as they please to the Eastward This is also the usual way from Jamaica to Barbadoes though sometimes they turn up by the Carribbee Islands only taking the Benefit of these Sea and Land-winds So also Ships may and do pass from Portobello to Carthagena or to St. Martha or to any other Place by the help of these Breezes if the distance is not too far So by taking the Advantage of these VVinds Sloops in the West Indies sail clear round the Islands or to any part of them in a short time In the South Seas also the Spaniards in their Voyages from Panama to Lima by taking the Advantage of these VVinds do sail as high as Cape Blanco but in all their Voyages to the Southward of that Cape they stand quite off to Sea into the Trade Thus you see the use and advantage of them The Seamen that sail in Sloops or other small Vessels in the West Indies do know very well when they shall meet a brisk Land-VVind by
Where together with the Harmatans he gives an Account also of all the Winds on that Coast. Mr. Greenhill's Letter SIR I Have been very ill since my return Home with the Gout so that I have not been capable of answering your Expectation But being a little beâ—… recovered I shall make as good a return to your Enquâ—… of the Harmatans on the Coast of Guinea as 〈◊〉 Circumstances will permit The usual Time of 〈◊〉 blowing is between the latter part of December 〈◊〉 the beginning of February before and 〈◊〉 Seasons they never exceed They 〈◊〉 of 〈◊〉 cold sharp and piercing a Nature that the 〈◊〉 of the Floors of our Chambers and the 〈◊〉 Decks of our Ships as far as they are aboâ—… 〈◊〉 will open so wide as that with facility you may 〈◊〉 a Caulking Iron a considerable way into thâ—… 〈◊〉 which condition they continue so long as the 〈◊〉 tan blows which is sometimes two or three 〈◊〉 very rarely five Days which is the very 〈◊〉 observed or heard of and when they are 〈◊〉 close again and are as tight as if it never 〈◊〉 The Natives themselves and all Person 〈◊〉 those parts during that short Season to prevent their pernicious Effects are obliged to confine themselves within Doors where they endeavour their own security by rendring their Habitations as close and impenetrable as possible Neither will they once stir abroad unless induced thereto by a more than ordinary Occasion It is as destructive to the Cattle also whose safe Guard consists in their Proprietors Care who against this Season ought to provide some such like place for them Otherwise they must expect but a pittiful Account when the Season is over for it most certainly destroys them and that in a very short time This I accidentally experimented by exposing a couple of Goats to the Asperity thereof which in four hours space or thereabouts were depriv'd of Life Nay we our selves unless assisted by the like Conveniency and the benefit of some sweet Oyls to correct the Air cannot fetch our Breath so freely as at other times but are almost suffocated with too frequent and Acid Respirations They generally blow between the E. and E. N. E. to the Northward of which they never exceed being the most settled and steddy but fresh Gale I ever observ'd coming without Thunder Lightning or Rain but close gloomy Weather the Sun not shining all the time And when they expire the Trade-wind which constantly blows on that Coast at W. S. W. and S. W. returns with the accustomary seasonableness of Weather The Coast of Africa from Cape Palmas to Cape Formosa lies E. and E. by N. and near those Points the Land Breezes blow on that Coast which commonly begin about seven in the Evening and continue all Night till near that time the next Morning During which interval we are troubled with stinking Fogs and Mists off Shore which by return of the Sea-Breezes upon the opposite Points are all driven away and we have the benefit of them in a curious fresh Gale till obout 5 in the Afternoon And here let me Note it for a general Observation That in these and all other Places within the Tropicks as far as ever I took notice the Wind is drawn by the Land For if an Island or head-Head-Land were inclining to a circular Form the Sea and Land-Breezes fall in Diametrically opposite to that part where you are So that if you are on the South side the Sea-Breez shall be at South and the Land-Breez when it comes in its Season at North. In getting on the Coast we endeavour to fall in with Cape Mount or Cape Miserada which is about 18 Leagues to the E. S. Eastward thereof and after that we double Cape Palmas whence as asoresaid the Land trends away E. by N. the Current near the shore sets upon that Point down into the Bite But in getting off we as much attempt if possible to lay hold of St. Thomas and thence to run to the Southward of the Line perhaps 3 or 4 Degrees for the further Southerly we go the stronger we find the Gales and more beneficial for getting off the African Coast but those who keep to the Northward thereof generally meet with more Calms and consequently longer Voyages ensue In or about those Latitudes we continue till we are got between 25 and 30 Degrees to the Westward of Cape Lopez de Gonsalvo and then we cross again to go either for England or the West Indies But by the way let me observe to you that when once we are to the West-ward of the 〈◊〉 Cape and in South Latitude the Current sets â—…therly and the Wind to 20 Degrees of Latitude 〈◊〉 E. S. E. as to the like number of Degrees on the North side of the Line it blows at 〈◊〉 Neither did I ever observe any Mutation of the 〈◊〉 unless in the Tornado-Season when during their blowing they commonly set to Wind-ward tho' perhaps the Moon upon Full and Change may have the like influence there as in other Places but I never took any particular notice thereof The said Tornadoes usually come in the beginning of Apr. and seldom relinquish the Gold Coast till July commences and with frequent visits make us sensible of their Qualities We have sometimes three or four in a day but then their continuance is but short perhaps not above two hours and the strength or fury it may be about a quarter or half an Hour but accompanied with prodigious Thunder Lightning and Rain and the violence of the Wind so extraordinary as that it has sometimes rolled up the Lead wherewith the Houses are cover'd as close and compactly as possible it could be done by the Art of Man The Name implys a variety of Winds But the strength of them is generally at S. E. and by Ships that are bound off the Coast they are made use of to get to Windward I shall conclude with that most worthy Observation of the Season wherein the Rains begin which on the Gold Coast is about the 10th of April And this may be generally remarked from 15 d. N. to 15 d. South Latitude that they follow the Sun within 5 or 6 d. And so proceed with him till he has touched the Tropick and returns to the like Station again This I shall illustrate by the following Example Viz. Cape Corso Castle lies in 4 d. 55 North. About the 10th of April the Sun has near 12 degrees N. Declination At that time the Rains begin and continue with the Inhabitants of that Place until he has performed his Course to the greatest obliquity from off the Equator and returned to the like Position South The same I suppose may be observed and understood of other places within the Tropicks The Variation of which in the Year 1680. I made frequent Observations was 2 d. 14 m. Westerly And it generally flows at the aforesaid place S. S. E. and N. N. W. upon the Full and Change The Water
rising upon Spring Tides about 6 or 7 Foot up and down I remain SIR Your humble Servant Henry Greenhill From His Majesties Yard near Portsmouth the 5th June 1698. Upon my Receipt of this from the Gentleman aforesaid I wrote to him again to have his Opinion about what I have said concerning the particular Longitude in which 't is best to ross the Line in going from Guinea to the West Indies And so much of his Answer as concerns this Matter was in these Words Mr. Greenhill's second Letter SIR I Do not dissent from Crossing the Line at 35 or 36 d. Longitude Westward of Cape Lopes and it may as well be done at 30. provided the Breezes continue fresh But if we have but little Winds we generally run on the South side of the Line till we reach the distance West and then Crossing we steer away West North West and West by North for Barbadoes And this you may observe as I have already hinted to you that the further we keep to the Southward of the Line the fresher and consequently more advantageous the Breezes are I remain SIR Your obliged Friend And most humble Servant Henry Greenhill And here I judge it will not be unacceptable to the Reader to insert two other Letters from an Experienced Captain of a Ship because they have a general Relation to the Subject I am now upon as well as to the Coast of Guinea in particular Part of two Letters from Captain John Covant of Portbury to a Gentleman in London LETTER I. Honoured Sir I Have sent Mr. Dampier's Book which you were pleased to send me to Captain S I have gone through it and find it very well worth my time being very delight some and I believe true I have made some Remarks on it as having found the like of what he asserts in other places As p. 65. mention is made of the Sucking-Fish or Remora as Mr. Dampier calls it These are mighty plenty on the Coast of Angola and at Madagascar and between Cape Lopes de Gonsalvas and the River Gabon They are shaped as he describes them As to what he saith p. 73. I have found the Indians in the Gulph of Florida offering false Ambergriece to sale and particularly in Lat. 25 d. where in the Year 1693. several of our Men were cheated with it What Mr. Dampier saith of the Laziness of the People of Mindanao p. 326. the very same may be said of the People of Loango on the Coast of Guinea exactly Their manner of Worship mentioned p. 338. is the very same with what I have seen at Algier on the Coast of Barbary The Nocturnal Dancings used by the Hottantotts at the Cape of Good Hope every Full and New Moon p. 541. are also practised by the Inhabitants of Loango Molinbo and Cabendo I shall give you the trouble of a small Relation of a Passage to Loango in the Year 1693. When we came so far to the Southward as 2 d. 40 m. N. Lat. and 8 d. 25 m. Longi Westward from the Meridian of Lundy it being 31st of March we had small Wind at S. S. W. and S. W. with showers of Rain There we met with prodigious shoals of Fish consisting chiefly of Albicores and Bonetoes There were also great numbers of Sharks some 10 or 12 Foot long For diversion we catch'd above an 100 of them at times The other Fish we took as we had occasion fresh and fresh and one day we caught a Barrel of them with empty Hooks These shoals of Fish kept us Company till we were under the Equator in Long. 4 d. 3 m. Eastward of the Meridian of Lundy This was April 27. we had the Winds at S. E. and S. E. by E. fresh Gales and clear Weather but a mighty Leeward Current At the Fishes parting with us that day I caught an Albicore that weighed 75 l. It is a mighty strong Fish so that the Fishing-Craft must be very strong to take them The City of Loango I find to lye in Lat. 4 d. 30 m. S. and Longi 18 d. 8 m. Eastward from the Meridian of Lundy from whence I took my departure bound for Jamaica Oct. 7. 1693. When we find the Winds South S. by W. and S. S. W. fresh Gales veerable to S. W. and back to South we stand off to the Westward with Larboard Tacks on board till we get 14 d. Long. to the Westward of Loango And there we find the Winds veerable from S. S. E. to S. E. fresh Gales When we get 34 d. to the Westward of Loango we are then 16 d. Westward from the Meridian of Lundy And there we find the Winds veerable from S. E. by E. to E. by S. and East and so they continue blowing fresh as we still run to the Westward between the Lat. of 3 and 4 d. South till we make the Island Fernando de Noronho which I find to lye in Lat. 3 d. 54 m. 30 s. South And by the Experience of two Voyages have found its Longi 40 d. 59 m. Westward from Loango and 22 d. 51 m. from the Meridian of Lundy This Island appears with a very high Pyramid And when we come close to it the Pyramid looks like a large Cathedral On the N. W. side is a small Bay to anchor in But ships must come pretty near the shore because it is deep Water Here is plenty of Fish And on the Island is some fresh Water and low shrubs of Trees We could see no living Creature on it but Dogs It was formerly inhabited by the Portuguese but the Dutch having then War with them took it and carried the Portuguese all away The Body of the Island I judge to be about 4 Miles long lying N. E. and S. W. near on the North side are some Rocks pretty high above Water and many Birds as Sea-Gulls and Man-of-War-Birds which are something like our Kites in England I find the Current sets strong to the N. W. The variation very little From thence I steered N. W. with fresh Gales S. E. and at E. S. E. in order to cross the Equator and designing to make the Island Tobago Which by my Run from the aforesaid Island I find to lye in Lat. 11 d. 33 m. North. Longi Westward of Fernando 28 d. 19 m. 2 10. The Meridian distance from Fernando 1721 Miles 6 10 And by my reckoning or Journal Tobago is West from the Meridian of the Isle of Lundy 51 d. 10 m. 2 10. In this Passage between the said Islands we find strange Rippling and Cockling Seas ready to leap in upon the Ships Deck which makes us think the Current to be strong And it seems to be occasioned by the great River on the main Land which is not far from us in this Passage Tobago is an high Island with a brave sandy Bay on the S. W. side where the Dutch had formerly a great Fort till molested by the English in the last Dutch War From this Island I shaped
my Course for Jamaica and found the N. E. Corner to lye in Lat. 18 d. North and in Longi West from Tobago 13 d. The Meridian distance from Tobago is 749 Miles VVest In our passage we saw no Land or Island till we made the N. E. end of Jamaica which lyeth in Longi VVest from the Meridian of Lundy 64 d. 10 m. and VVest from the City of Loango 82 d. 18 m. I shall only add that I am of Opinion that the Gallopagos Islands do lye a great deal further to the VVestward than our Hydrographers do place them according as Mr. Dampier hints p. 100 of his Voyage round the World I am Portbury Octob. 20. 1698. SIR Your most humble Servant John Covant Part of a second Letter from Captain Covant dated from Bristol Decemb. 10. 1697. LETTER II. SIR YOurs of the 6th Instant came to my Hands with the enclosed Queries which I shall endeavour to answer in part as far as my memory will assist me being now from home and at a distance from my Journals c. 1. The Common Trade-Winds on the Coast of Angola blow from the S. VV. to South till about 12 d. Long. from the Meridian of the Isle of Lundy 2. I have found them always in the same Quarter and not subject to shift in all the time I have used this Coast except that at a small distance off the shore they are sometimes a Point more to the VVestward 3. The Dry Season on this Coast I observed to be from the latter end of April to September tho' sometimes intermix'd with some pleasant showers of Rain I cannot be so punctual as to the time of the Wet Seasons 4. The true Sea-Breez I have commonly found here to be from W. S. W. to VV. by S. if it be fair Weather and the Land Breez is at E. by N. But if a Tornado happens it causes the Winds to shift all round the Compass and at last it settles at S. VV. which is the former true Trade Wind. I am yours John Covant CHAP. VI. Of Storms Storms less frequent but more fierce between the Tropicks Presages of their coming Of Norths the Times and Places where they blow Signs of their approach N. Banks A Chocolatta North. A North beneficial to Ships going from Campeachy to Jamaica A very uncommon way of wearing a Ship in a North. Of Souths the Times and Places where they Blow A Description of a South at Jamaica and at the Bay of Campeachy Much Fish kill'd by that Storm Of Hurricanes A Description of a terrible one at Antegoe where abundance of Fish and Sea Fowles were destroyed by it The difference between North Banks and the Clouds before an Hurricane the latter adorned with radiant Colours Tuffoons in the East-Indies the same with Hurricanes in the West Of Monsoons in the East-Indies A Storm called by the Portuguese the Elephanta which is the violentest Monsoon of that Season STorms within the Tropicks are generally known to us by some Name or other to distinguish them from other common Winds and though Storms are not so frequent there as they are in Latitudes nearer the Poles yet are they nevertheless expected yearly in their proper Months and when they do come they blow exceeding fierce though indeed some years they do not come at all or at least do not blow with that fierceness as at other times And as these Winds are commonly very fierce so are they but of a short continuance in comparison with Storms that we meet with in higher Latitudes In the West Indies there are three sorts viz. Norths Souths and Hurricanes In the East-Indies there are only two sorts viz. Monsoones and Tuffoones All these sorts of violent Storms except the Norths are expected near one time of the year and this is taken notice of by those that have been in any of them that they give certain Presages of their being at hand several hours before they come Norths are violent Winds that frequently blow in the Bay of Mexico from October till March They are chiefly expected near the full or change of the Moon all that time of the year but they are most violent in December and January These Winds are not confined to the Bay of Mexico only but there they are most frequent and rage with the greatest Violence They blow on the North side of Cuba very fierce too and in the Gulph of Florida as also about Hispaniola Jamaica c. and in the Channel between Jamaica and Portabel and in all the West Indian Sea between the Islands and the Main as high as the Island Trinidado But from Jamaica Eastward except on the North side of the Island Hispaniola they blow no harder than a pretty brisk Sea Wind. They are here at W. N. W. or N. W. though in the Bay of Mexico they blow strongest at N. N. W. and this is the Season of Westerly Winds in these East parts of the West-Indies as I have before noted in the third Chapter of this Discourse I shall be most particular of them that blow in the Bay of Mexico and what Signs they give us before hand Commonly before a North the Weather is vety serene and fair the Sky clear and but little Wind and that too veering from its proper Point or the common Trade Wind of the Coast and breathing gently at S. at S. W. and West a Day or two before the North comes The Sea also gives notice of a Storm by an extraordinary and long Ebb. For a Day or two before a North there will be hardly any discernable Flood but a constant ebbing of the Sea And the Sea Fowls also before a Storm do commonly hover over the Land which they do not at other times use to do in such great flights and numbers All these Signs concurring may give any Man notice of an approaching Storm but the greatest and most remarkable Sign of a North is a very black Cloud in the N. W. rising above the Horizon to about 10 or 12 degrees the upper edge of the Cloud appears very even and smooth and when once the upper part of the Cloud is 6 8 10 or 12 degrees high there it remains in that even form parallel to the Horizon without any motion and this sometimes 2 or 3 Days before the Storm comes At other times not above 12 or 14 hours but never less This Cloud lying so near the Horizon is not seen but in the Mornings or Evenings at least it does not appear so black as then this is called by English Seamen a North Bank and when ever we see such a Cloud in that part of the World and in the Months before mentioned we certainly provide for a Storm and though sometimes it may happen that such a Cloud may appear several Mornings and Evenings and we may not feel the effects of it or but very little yet we always provide against it for a North never comes without such a foreboding Cloud But if the VVinds
have not been known on the North side of the Island where the Mountains are bordering on the Sea or at least but a little distance off it For there they are supplied with seasonable Showers almost all the Year and even in the dry time it self near the Full and Change of the Moon But in the wet Season the Rains are more violent which is their Inconvenience As for the Valleys in the Country they are not subject to such Droughts as the plain Land by the Sea at least I have not observed it my self nor have I heard it mentioned by others The Isle of Pines near Cuba is so noted a place for Rain that the Spaniards inhabiting near it on Cuba say that it rains more or less every day in the Year at one place or another It is generally spoken also believ'd by Privateers for it has been oft visited by them I have been there my self but cannot confirm that report However it is well known to be a very wet and rainy place It is but a small Island of about 9 or 10 Leagues long and 3 or 4 broad and in the midst is a high pecked Mountain which is commonly clouded and the Privateers say that this Hill draws all the Clouds to it for if there is not another Cloud to be seen any where else yet this Hill is seldom or never clear Gorgonia in the South Seas also has the same report It is much smaller than Pines I have mentioned it in my Voyage round the World Chap. VII Page 172. This Isle lies about 4 Leagues from the Main but the Isle of Pines not above 2 and is a great deal bigger than it The Main against Gorgonia is very low Land but Cuba near Pines is pretty high and the Mountain of Pines is much bigger and higher than the Hill of Gorgonia which yet is of a good height so that it may be seen 16 or 18 Leagues off And tho' I cannot say that it rains every day there yet I know that it rains very much and extraordinary hard I have been at this Isle three times and always found it very rainy and the Rains very violent I remember when we touch'd there in our return from Captain Sharp we boiled a Kettle of Chocolate before we clean'd our Bark and having every Man his Callabash full we began to sup it off standing all the time in the Rain but I am confident not a Man among us all did clear his Dish for it rained so fast and such great drops into our Callabashes that after we had sup'd off as much Chocolate and Rain-Water together as suffised us our Callabashes were still above half full and I heard some of the Men swear that they could not sup it up so fast as it rained in at last I grew tir'd with what I had left and threw it away and most of the rest did so likewise As Clouds do usually hover over Hills and Mountains so do they also keep near the Land I have mentioned something of this in my Voyage round the World Chap. X. Page 283. where I have said that in making Land we commonly find it Cloudy over the Land tho' 't is clear every where beside And this may still confirm what I have said in the foregoing Discourse that Hills are commonly clouded for High Land is the first discerned by us and that as I said before is commonly clouded But now I shall speak how we find the Clouds when we are but a little way from Land either coasting along the shore or at an Anchor by it I hope the Reader will not imagine that I am going to prove that it never Rains at Sea or but very little there for the contrary is known to every Body and I have already said in this Discourse of Winds in my first Chapter That there are very frequent Tornadoes in several Seas especially near the Equator and more particularly in the Atlantick Sea Other Seas are not so much troubled with them neither is the Atlantick so to the North or South of the Line especially at any considerable distance from the shore but yet 't is very probable however that the Sea has not so great a portion of Tornadoes as the Land hath For when we are near the shore within the torrid Zone we often see it rain on the Land and perceive it to be very cloudy there when it is fair at Sea and scarce a Cloud to be seen that way And though we have the Wind from the shore the Clouds seeming to be drawing off yet they often wheel about again to the Land as if they were Magnetically drawn that way Sometimes indeed they do come off a little but then they usually either return again or else insensibly vanish and that 's the Reason that Seamen when they are sailing near the shore and see a Tornado coming off they don't much mind it but cry the Land will devour it But however sometimes they fly off to Sea And 't is very rare that Tornadoes arise from thence for they generally rise first over the Land and that in a very strange manner for even from a very small Cloud arising over the top of a Hill I have often seen it increase to such a bulk that I have known it rain for 2 or 3 days successively This I have observed both in the East and VVest Indies and in the South and North Seas And 't is impossible for me to forget how oft I have been disturbed by such small Clouds that appeared in the Night 'T is usual with Seamen in those parts to sleep on the Deck especially for Privateers among whom I made these Observations In Privateers especially when we are at an Anchor the Deck is spread with Mats to lye on each Night Every Man has one some two and this with a Pillow for the Head and a Rug for a Covering is all the Bedding that is necessary for Men of that Employ I have many times spread my Lodging when the Evening has promised well yet have been forced to withdraw before Day and yet it was not a little Rain that would afright me then neither at its first coming could I have thought that such a small Cloud could afford so much Rain And oftentimes both my self and others have been so deceived by the appearance of so small a Cloud that thinking the Rain would soon be over we have lain till we were dropping wet and then have been forced to move at last But to proceed I have constantly observed that in the wet Season we had more Rain in the Night than in the day for though it was fair in the Day yet we seldom escaped having a Tornado or two in the Night If we had one in the Day it rose and came away presently and it may be we had an Hours Rain more or less but when it came in the Night though there was little appearance of Rain yet we should have it 3 or 4 Hours together but
this has commonly been nigh the shore and we have seen thick Clouds over the Land and much Thunder and Lightning and to our appearance there was more Rain there than we had and probably out farther off at Sea there might be still less for it was commonly pretty clear that way CHAP. VIII Of Tides and Currents The difference between Tides and Currents No place in the Ocean without Tides Where the Tides are greatest and where smallest Of the Tides in the Harbour and Lagunes of Trist in the Bay of Campeachy Of those between the Capes of Virginia The Tides in the Gulph of St. Michael and the River of Guiaquil in the South Sea A mistaken Opinion of a Subterranean Communication between the North and South Seas under the Isthmus of Darien Of the Tides at the Gallapagos Islands at Guam one of the Ladrones About Panama In the Gulph of Dulce and Necoya River on the Coast of Peru in the West Indies and at Tonqueen where and at New Holland they are very irregular A guess at the Reason of so great an irregularity Of the Tides between the Cape of Good Hope and the Red Sea Of Currents They are influenced by the Trade-Wind Instances of them at Berbadoes c. at Cape La Vela and Gratia de Dios. Cape Roman Isle Trinidado Surinam Cape Blanco between Africa and Brazil Of Counter Currents Of Currents in the Bay of Campeachy and of Mexico in the Gulph of Florida Of the Cacuses No strange thing for the surface of the Water to run Counter to its lower Parts Of the Currents on the Coast of Angola Eastward of the Cape of Good Hope On the Coast of India North of the Line And in the South Sea HAving treated of the Winds and Seasons of the Year in the torrid Zone I now come to speak of the Tides and Currents there And by the way Note That By Tides I mean Flowings and Ebbings of the Sea on or off from any Coast. Which property of the Sea seems to be Universal though not regularly alike on all Coasts neither as to Time nor the height of the Water By Currents I mean another Motion of the Sea which is different from Tides in several Respects both as to its Duration and also as to its Course Tides may be compar'd to the Sea Land-Breezes in respect to their keeping near the shore though indeed they alternately flow and ebb twice in 24 Hours Contrarily the Sea-Breezes blow on the shore by Day and the Land-Winds off from it in the Night yet they keep this Course as duly in a manner as the Tides do Neither are the Tides nor those Breezes far from the Land Currents may be compar'd to the Coasting Trade-Winds as keeping at some farther distance from the shore as the Trade-winds do and 't is probable they are much influenced by them 'T is a general belief especially among Seamen That the Tides are governed by the Moon That their Increase and Decrease as well as their diurnal Motions are influenced by that Planet though sometimes accidental Causes in the Winds may hinder the true regularity thereof We are taught as the first Rudiments of Navigation to shift our Tides i. e. to know the time of full Sea in any Place which indeed is very necessary to be known by all English Sailers because the Tides are more regular in our Channel than in other parts of the World But my subject being to speak of the Tides within or near the Tropick I leave those in places nearer England to be discoursed on by Coasters who are the only knowing Men in this Mystery They having by experience gained more knowledge in it than others and that is always the best Master I have not been on any Coast in the World but where the Tides have ebb'd and flow'd either more or less and this I have commonly observed that the greatest Indraughts of Rivers or Lagunes have commonly the strongest Tides Contrarily such Coasts as are least supplied with Rivers or Lakes have the weakest Tides at least they are not so perceptible Where there are great Indraughts either of Rivers or Lagunes and those Rivers or Lagunes are wide though the Tide runs very strong into the Mouths of such Rivers or Lagunes yet it does not flow so high as in such Places where the Rivers or Lakes are bounded in a narrow Room though the Tides do run of an equal strength at the Mouths or Entrances of either Neither do the Tides flow so much on or about Islands remote from the Main Land as they do on the Coasts of it I shall first give some Instances of these general Observations and then proceed to Particulars The Places that I shall mention shall be such as I have been in my self and where I have made the Observations before-mentioned I shall begin with the Lagune of Trist in the Bay of Campeachy This Place is very remarkable in that it has two Mouths of a considerable bigness the one is about a Mile and half Wide and about two Mile through before you come to a Lagune which is seven or eight Leagues long and three wide The other Mouth is 7 Leagues from it and is about 2 Miles and half or 3 Miles wide and about 2 Miles long before it opens into the Lagune Besides farther within Land there are 3 or 4 more Lagunes less than the former The Tides that flow or ebb in all the Lagunes pass in or out at the two Mouths before-mentioned which makes them run very swift insomuch that the Spaniards have named that Great Lagune Laguna Termina or the Lake of Tides because the Tides are so very strong in those two Mouths Yet though the Tides do run so swift at the Mouths of the Lagune they do not rise in height proportionable to that swiftness for the greatest Tides here do not rise and fall above 6 or 7 Foot except forced by extraordinary Causes as Storms or the like Of which I have spoken before I could also instance in the Channel between the 2 Capes of Virginia where the Tides do run very swift yet the Floods and Ebbs are not proportionable to the swiftness of the Tide between the Capes There are not indeed such Lagunes as at Trist in the Bay of Campeachy but there are many wide Rivers and abundance of smaller Creeks Besides in some places there is low Land which is over-flown by the Tides so that all the Water that runs in with such swiftness within the Capes is insensibly swallowed up there These are instances of strong Tides occasioned by great Indraughts yet where there is but little rising and falling of the Water in comparison with the strength of the Tides at the Mouths of those Indraughts I shall next give some Instances of the great Indraughts where the Tides flow and ebb much more more than in the former Places though the Tide at the Mouths of those Indraughts does not run swifter than in those Places before-mentioned I shall
of the Trade Winds I shall instance Barbadoes for one and all the Carribbes may as well be included The greater Islands as Hispaniola Jamaica and Cuba have only some particular Capes or head-Head-Lands exposed to Currents as Cape Tiberoon on Hispaniola Point Pedro and the N. E. Point of Jamaica Cape de Cruz Cape Corientes and Cape Antonios on Cuba But of all the Islands in the West Indies there are none more sensible of Currents than Corrisao Aruba nor any Capes on the Continent so remarkable for Currents as Cape Roman which shoots out against the Sea betweenthose two Places as also Cape Coquibaco and Cape La Vela to Leeward all three on the same Head-Land which shoots forth far without any other Land on the Coast. There is no such Head-Land till you come to Cape Gratia de Dios which is about 260 Leagues to Leeward Indeed to the East-ward there is Land that trends out almost so far within 150 Leagues of it Viz. The Island Trinidado and the Land against it and there also are great Currents But I shall first speak of the Currents between Cape La Vela and Cape Gratia de Dios. The Currents at Cape La Vela do seldom shift therefore Ships that ply to Wind-ward to get about it do not ply near the shore but stand off to Sea till they come in sight of Hispaniola and then back again till within about 6 or 8 Leagues of the Cape but not nearer But in the Westerly Wind-Season which is from October till March Ships often meet Westerly Winds that last two or three Days with which they may run to the Eastward without any trouble Between Cape La Vela and Cape Gratia de Dios the Currents are much different from what they are against the Cape and this seems to proceed from the make of the Land for the shore between the two Capes runs into the Southward making a great Bay And this Bay affords more varieties of Winds and Currents than any one part of the West Indies besides Here in the Westerly Wind-Season the Current sets to the Westwards constantly but sometimes stronger than at other times At about four Leagues off shore you find it and so it continues till you are 20 25 or 30 Leagues off Beyond that you meet with an Easterly Wind and if there is any Current it runs also to the Westward therefore Ships that are bound to the Westward must run off to Sea Thirty or Forty Leagues to get a Wind or else if they have but a little way to go they must ply close under the shore that so they may Anchor when they please Otherwise they will be carried away to the Eastward Fourteen or Sixteen Leagues in a Nights time and that too though they have a faint Easterly Wind as frequently they meet with though 't is the Westerly Wind-Season To the East of Cape Roman as high as the Island Trinidado you meet only a soaking faint Current setting to the Westward except only near such places as shoot out farthest into the Sea as about the Testegos which are small Islands lying to Wind-ward of the Island Margarita Between those Islands and the Main you meet with a pretty strong Current therefore it is hard getting to the East-ward there but on all the Coast between Cape Roman and the head-Head-Land shooting out towards the Testegos you may ply up with the Land and Sea-Breezes From thence till you come as high as the East-end of Trinidado Isle you meet with an extraordinary strong Current From the East-end of Trinidado till you come to Surinam though you meet an Easterly Current yet 't is possible to beat it up with the Land and Sea-Breezes From Surianam also to Cape Blanco you may turn it up though to be sure you 'l meet with Currents setting to the West except near the Full of the Moon and then on all the Coasts before-mentioned we commonly meet with Currents setting to the Eastward at least then it slackens and stands still if it doth not run to the East-ward But when you are come as far to the East as Cape Blanco on the North of Brazil you meet with a Current always against you and so from thence Southerly as far as Cape St. Augustine There is no dealing with this Promontory for it shoots out so far into the Sea and thereby lies so exposed to the Sea-Breezes and the Currents that soak down between Africa and Brazil that it is quite contrary to reason to think there should not always be a strong Current setting to the N. W. I have before hinted That in all places where the Trade blows we find a Current setting with the Wind which is not so perceptible in the wide Sea as nearer the Shores yet even there the force of the Winds constantly blowing one way may and probably does move the surface of the Water along with it From hence it may be inferred that the Southerly Winds on the Coast of Africa and the true Trade between it and Brazil gently move the surface of the Sea with it and the Trade being mostly at S. E. drives the Sea to the Northward slanting in on the Coast of Brazil which being there stop'd by the Land bends its Course Northerly towards Cape St. Augustine And after it has doubled that great Promontory it falls away more gently towards the Coast of Suranam and from thence towards the West Indies For after it has doubled that Promontory it has more room to spread it self and thereby becomes weaker in motion being agitated by the Trade-winds which to the North of the Line we find commonly blowing at E. N. E. and this still bears the Sea slanting down along the Coast to the Westward And probably 't is for this Reason that we find the Current setting strongest near those Head-Lands before-mentioned Whereas at Barbadoes and other of the Caribee Islands we find only a soaking Current such as seems to arise only from the constancy of the Trade-winds blowing there and not from an original Current from the South part of the Atlantick which as I said before doubles about Cape St. Augustine and so Coasts along pretty nigh the shore The Currents about the Island Trinidado and at Currisao and Aruba as also between them and Cape Roman seem to indicate as much The Currents also between Cape Roman and Cape La Vela indicate the same From Cape La Vela the Currents set still to the Westward towards Cape Gratia de Dios but in a direct Line and not borrowing or slanting in towards the shore For as I said before it is a large Bay and Currents commonly set from one Head-Land to another so that Bays have seldom any or if they have they are only Counter Currents And these Counter Currents too do set from one Point to another without interfering with the little Bays between And 't is also very probable that these Counter Currents such as we meet with in this Bay in their Seasons after they have
Land I have seen of them also at Mindanea one of the Philippine Islands and on the Coast of New-Holland This Creature is about the bigness of a Horse and 10 or 12 foot long The mouth of it is much like the mouth of a Cow having great thick lips The Eyes are no bigger than a small Pea the Ears are only two small holes on each side of the Head The Neck is short and thick bigger than the Head The biggest part of this Creature is at the Shoulders where it hath two large Fins one on each side of its Belly Under each of these Fins the Female hath a small Dug to suckle her young From the Shoulders towards the Tail it retains its bigness for about 2 foot then groweth smaller and smaller to the very tail which is flat and about 14 inches broad and 20 inches long and in the middle 4 or 5 inches thick but about the edges of it not above 2 inches thick From the head to the tail it is round and smooth without any Fin but those two before mentioned I have heard that some have weighed above 1200 l. but I never saw any so large The Manatee delights to live in brackish Water and they are commonly in Creeks and Rivers near the Sea 'T is for this reason possibly they are not seen in the South Seas that ever I could observe where the Coast is generally a bold Shore that is high Land and deep Water close home by it with a high Sea or great Surges except in the Bay of Panama yet even there is no Manatee Whereas the West-Indies being as it were one great Bay composed of many smaller are mostly low Land and shoal Water and afford proper pasture as I may say for the Manatee Sometimes we find them in salt Water sometimes in fresh but never far at Sea And those that live in the Sea at such places where there is no River nor Creek fit for them to enter yet do commonly come once or twice in 24 hours to the mouth of any fresh Water River that is near their place of abode They live on Grass 7 or 8 inches long and of a narrow blade which grows in the Sea in many places especially among Islands near the Main This Grass groweth likewise in Creeks or in great Rivers near the sides of them in such places where there is but little tide or current They never come ashore nor into shallower water than where they can swim Their flesh is white both the fat and the lean and extraordinary sweet wholsome meat The tail of a young Cow is most esteemed but if old both head and tail are very tough A Calf that sucks is the most delicate meat Privateers commonly roast them as they do also great pieces cut out of the Bellies of the old ones The Skin of the Manatee is of great use to Privateers for they cut them out into straps which they make fast on the sides of their Canoas through which they put their Oars in rowing instead of tholes or pegs The Skin of the Bull or of the back of the Cow is too thick for this use but of it they make Horse-whips cutting them 2 or 3 foot long at the handle they leave the full substance of the Skin and from thence cut it away tapering but very even and square all the four sides While the Thongs are green they twist them and hang them to dry which in a weeks time become as hard as Wood. The Moskito-men have always a small Canoa for their use to strike Fish Tortoise or Manatee which they keep usually to themselves and very neat and clean They use no Oars but Paddles the broad part of which doth not go tapering towards the staff pole or handle of it as in the Oar nor do they use it in the same manner by laying it on the side of the Vessel but hold it perpendicularly griping the staff hard with both hands and putting back the water by main strength and very qâ—…ick strokes One of the Moskitoes for there go but two in a Canoa sits in the stern the other kneels down in the head and both paddle till they come to the place where they expect their game Then they lye still or paddle very softly looking well about them and he that is in the head of the Canoa lays down his paddle and stands up with his striking staff in his hand This staff is about 8 foot long almost as big as a mans Arm at the great end in which there is a hole to place his Harpoon in At the other end of his staff there is a piece of light Wood called Bobwood with a hole in it through which the small end of the staff comes and on this piece of Bobwood there is a line of 10 or 12 fathom wound neatly about and the end of the line made fast to it The other end of the line is made fast to the Harpoon which is at the great end of the staff and the Moskito man keeps about a fathom of it loose in his hand When he strikes the Harpoon presently comes out of the staff and as the Manatee swims away the line runs off from the bob and although at first both staff and bob may be carried under water vet as the line runs off it will rise again Then the Moskito men paddle with all their might to get hold of the bob again and spend usually a quarter of an hour before they get it When the Manatee begins to be tired it lyeth still and then the Moskito men paddle to the bob and take it up and begin to hale in the line When the Manatee feels them he swims away again with the Canoa after him then he that steers must be nimble to turn the head of the Canoa that way that his consort points who being in the head of the Canoa and holding the line both sees and feels which way the Manatee is swimming Thus the Canoa is towed with a violent motion till the Manatee's strength decays Then they gather in the line which they are often forced to let all go to the very end At length when the Creatures strength is spent they hale it up to the Canoas side and knock it on the head and tow it to the nearest shore where they make it fast and seek for another which having taken they go ashore with it to put it into their Canoa For it is so heavy that they cannot lift it in but they hale it up in shoal water as near the shore as they can and then overset the Canoa laying one side close to the Manatee Then they roll it in which brings the Canoa upright again and when they have heav'd out the water they fasten a line to the other Manatee that lieth afloat and tow it after them I have known two Moskito men for a week every day bring aboard two Manatee in this manner the least of which hath not weighed less than 600
aim'd at by the Spaniards lay about a mile off with a Canoa at the Buoy of his Anchor as fearing some Treachery from our pretended Merchant and a little before the Bark blew up he saw a small Float on the Water and as it appeared a Man on it making towards his Ship but the Man dived and disappeared of a sudden as thinking probably that he was discovered This was supposed to be one coming with some combustible matter to have stuck about the Rudder For such a trick Captain Sharp was served at Coquimbo and his Ship had like to have been burnt by it if by meer accident it had not been discovered I was then aboard Captain Sharp's Ship Captain Swan seeing the Blaze by us cut his Cables as we did his Bark did the like so we kept under sail all the night being more scared than hurt The Bark that was on fire drove burning towards Tobago but after the first blast she did not burn clear only made a smother for she was not well made though Captain Bond had the framing and management of it This Captain Bond was he of whom I made mention in my 4th Chapter He after his being at the Isles of Cape Verd stood away for the South Seas at the instigation of one Richard Morton who had been with Captain Sharp in the South Seas In his way he met with Captain Eaton and they two consorted a day or two at last Morton went aboard of Captain Eaton and perswaded him to lose Captain Bond in the night which Captain Eaton did Morton continuing aboard of Captain Eaton as finding his the better Ship Captain Bond thus losing both his Consort Eaton and Morton his Pilot and his Ship being but an ordinary Sailer he despaired of getting into the South Seas and he had plaid such tricks among the Caribbee Isles as I have been informed that he did not dare to appear at any of the English Islands Therefore he perswaded his Men to go to the Spaniards and they consented to do any thing that he should propose so he presently steered away into the West Indies and the first place where he came to an anchor was at Portobel He presently declared to the Governour that there were English Ships coming into the South Seas and that if they questioned it he offered to be kept a Prisoner till time should discover the truth of what he said but they believed him and sent him away to Panama where he was in great esteem This several Prisoners told us The Spaniards of Panama could not have fitted out their Fireship without this Captain Bond 's assistance for it is strange to say how grossly ignorant the Spaniards in the West Indies but especially in the South Seas are of Sea-affairs They build indeed good Ships but this is a small matter for any Ship of a good bottom will serve for these Seas on the South Coast. They rig their Ships but untowardly have no Guns but in 3 or 4 of the Kings Ships and are as meanly furnished with Warlike Provisions and as much at a loss for the making any Fireships or other less usual Machines Nay they have not the sence to have their Guns run within the sides upon their discharge but have Platforms without for the Men to stand on to charge them so that when we come near we can fetch them down with small shot out of our Boats A main reason of this is that the Native Spaniards are too proud to be Seamen but use the Indians for all those Offices one Spaniard it may be going in the Ship to command it and himself of little more knowledge than those poor ignorant creatures nor can they gain much Experience seldom going far off to Sea but coasting along the shores But to proceed In the morning when it was light we came again to an anchor close by our Buoys and strove to get our Anchors again but our Buoy-Ropes being rotten broke While we were puzzling about our Anchors we saw a great many Canoas full of Men pass between Tabago and the other Island This put us into a new consternation we lay still some time till we saw that they came directly towards us then we weighed and stood towards them and when we came within hale we found that they were English and French Privateers come out of the North Seas through the Isthmus of Darien They were 280 Men in 28 Canoas 200 of them French the rest English They were commanded by Captain Gronet and Captain Lequie We presently came to an Anchor again and all the Canoas came aboard These Men told us that there were 180 English Men more under the Command of Captain Townley in the Country of Darien making Canoas as these Men had been to bring them into these Seas All the English Men that came over in this Party were immediately entertain'd by Captain Davis and Captain Swan in their own Ships and the French Men were ordered to have our Flower Prize to carry them and Captain Gronet being the eldest Commander was to command them there and thus they were all disposed of to their hearts content Captain Gronet to retalliate this kindness offered Captain Davis and Captain Swan each of them a new Commission from the Governor of Petit Guavres It has been usual for many years past for the Governor of Petit Guavres to send blank Commissions to Sea by many of his Captains with orders to dispose of them to whom they saw convenient Those of Petit-Guavres by this means making themselves the Sanctuary and Asylum of all People of desperate Fortunes and increasing their own Wealth and the Strength and Reputation of their Party thereby Captain Davis accepted of one having before only an old Commission which fell to him by Inheritance at the decease of Captain Cook who took it from Captain Thristian together with his Bark as is before mentioned But Captain Swan refused it saying he had an order from the Duke of York neither to give offence to the Spaniards nor to receive any affront from them and that he had been injured by them at Baldivia where they had kill'd some of his Men and wounded several more so that he thought he had a lawful Commission of his own to right himself I never read any of these French Commissions while I was in these Seas nor did I then know the import of them but I have learnt since that the Tenour of them is to give a Liberty to fish fowl and hunt The occasion of this is that the Island of Hispaniola where the Garrison of Petit-Guavres is belongs partly to the French and partly to the Spaniards and in time of Peace these Commissions are given as a Warrant to those of each side to protect them from the adverse Party but in effect the French do not restrain them to Hispaniola but make them a pretence for a general ravage in any part of America by Sea or Land Having thus disposed of our Associates
whom I came acquainted with some time after this at Fort St. George and I had of him the following account the particulars of which I have also had confirmed by the Seamen who were with them These two Captains with many more English men had been for some time in the service of the King of Siam and each of them commanded a stout Frigot of his mann'd chiefly with English and some Portuguese born at Siam These the King of Siam sent against some Pyrates who made spoyl of his Subjects Trading in these Seas and nested themselves in an Island up the River of Cambodia Captain Howel told me that they found this River very large especially at its mouth that 't is deep and navigable for very great Vessels 60 or 70 Leagues up and that its depth and wideness extended much further up for ought he knew but so far they went up at this time with their Ships The Course of the River is generally from North to South and they found the Land low on each side with many large creeks and branches and in some places considerable Islands They bended their Course up that branch which seem'd most considerable having the Tyde of flood with them and the River commonly so wide as to give them room to turn or make Angles where the bending of the River was such as to receive a contrary East or South East Sea Wind. These reaches or bendings of the River East and West were very rare at least so as to make their Course be against the Sea wind which commonly blew in their Stern and fo fresh that with it they could stem the Tyde of Ebb. But in the night when the Land winds came they anchored and lay still till about 10 or 11 a Clock the next day at which time the Sea-breeze usually sprang up again and enabled them to continue their Course till they came to the Island where the Pirats inhabited They presently began to fire at them and landing their men routed them and burned their Houses and Fortifications and taking many prisoners returned again These Piratical People were by Nation Chinese who when the Tartars conquered their Country fled from thence in their own Ships as choosing rather to live any where free than to submit to the Tartars These it seems in their flight bent their Course towards this Country and finding the River of Cambodia open before them they made bold to enter and settle on the Island before mentioned There they built a Town and fenced it round about with a kind of Wood-pile or Wall of great Timber Trees laid along of the thickness of 3 or 4 of these Trees and of about as many in heighth They were provided with all sorts of Planters instruments and the Land hereabouts was excellent good as our English men told me so that 't is like they might have lived here happily enough had their inclinations led them to a quiet Life but they brought Arms along with them and chose to use them rather than their Instruments of Husbandry and they lived therefore mostly by rapin pillaging their Neighbours who were more addicted to traffick than fighting But the King of Siams Subjects having been long harrassed by them at Sea he first sent some Forces by Land to drive them out of their Fort till not succeeding that way he entirely Routed them by sending these 2 Ships up the River The 2 English Captains having thus effected their business returned out of the River with many Prisoners but the South West Monsoon being already set in they could not presently return to Siam and therefore went to Macao in China as well to wait for the N. East Monsoon as to ingratiate themselves with the Tartars who they thought would be pleased with the Conquest which they had made over these Chinese Pyrates They were well entertained there by the Tartarian Governor and gave him their Prisoners and upon the shifting of the Monsoon they returned to Siam There they were received with great applause Nor was this the first successful expedition the English have made in the K. of Siams service They once saved the Country by suppressing an insurrection made by the Buggasses The Buggasses are a sort of warlike Trading Malayans and mercenary Soldiers of India I know not well whence they come unless from Macasser in the Island Celebes Many of them had been entertained at Siam in the Kings service but at last being disgusted at some ill usuage they stood up in their own defence Some hundreds of them got together all well armed and these struck a dread into the hearts of the Siamites none of whom were able to stand before them till Constant Falcon the chief Minister Commanded the English that were then in the Kings service to march against them which they did with success tho with some considerable loss For these services the King gave every year to each of them a great Silk Coat on which were just 13 Buttons Those of the chief Commanders were of Massy Gold and those of the inferiour Officers were of Silver Plate This Expedition against the Chinese Pirats was about the year 1687 the other broyl with the Buggasses was as I take it some time before But to proceed with our Voyage we still kept our way Southward and in company together till we came about Pulo Condore but then Captain Pool parted from us standing more directly South for the Streights of Sundy and we steer'd more to the Westward to go thro the Streights of Malacca thro which we came before Captain Brewster and another of our Passengers began now to be in fear that the King of Siam would send Ships to lye at the Mouth of the Streights of Malacca and intercept our passage because there was a War broke out between the English East India Company and that Prince This seemed the more likely because the French at this time were imployed in that Kings service by the means of a French Bishop and other Ecclesiasticks who were striving to convert the King and people to Christianity thro the Interest they had got in Constant Falcon. Particularly they were afraid that the King of Siam would send the 2 Ships before mentioned which Captain Williams and Capt Howel had commanded a little before to lye at the west end of the Streights mouth but probably mann'd with French Men and French Commanders to take us Now tho this made but little impression on the minds of our Commanders and Officers yet it so happened that we had such thick dark weather when we came near the first Entrance of the Streights of Malacca which was that we came by and by which we meant to return that we thought it not safe to stand in at night and so lay by till morning The next day we saw a Jonk to the Southward and chased her and having spoke with her we made sail and stood to the Westward to pass the Streights and making the Land we found we were to the
Southward of the Streights first mouth and were gotten to the Southermost Entrance near the Sumatra shore but Captain Lacy who chose to go the old way made sail again to the Northward and so passed nearer the Malacca shore by the Sincapore the way we went before His was also the best and nearest way but Captain Weldon was willing to satisfie his curiosity and try a new passage which we got thro tho we had but little depth of water and this Entrance we past is called Brewers Streights Brewers Streights are sometimes passed by small Ships that sail from Batavia to Malacca because for them it is a nearer cut than to run so far as Pulo Timaon or the Streights of Sincapore In this Channel tho in some places we found but 14 or 15 foot water yet the bottom was soft Oaze and it lies so among Islands that there cannot go a great Sea Captain Weldon had also a Dutch man aboard who had been this way and he professing to know the Channel incouraged our Captain to try it which we effected very well tho sometimes we had but little more water than we drew This made us make but an easy Sail and therefore we were 7 or 8 days before we arrived at Malacca but Captain Lacy was there 2 or 3 days before us Here we first heard of the Death of Constant Falcon for whom Captain Brewster seemed to be much concerned There also we found besides several Dutch Sloops and our Companion Captain Lacy an English Vessel of 35 or 40 Tuns This Vessel was bought by one Captain Johnson who was sent by the Governor of Bencouli in a small Sloop to Trade about the Island of Sumatra for Pepper but Captain Johnson being killed the Sloop was brought hither by one Mr. Wells Being thus insensibly fallen into the mention of this Captain Johnson and intending to defer what little I have to say of Malacca till my coming thither again from Achin I shall bestow the rest of this Chapter in speaking of this mans Tragedy and other occurences relating to it which tho of no great moment in themselves yet the Circumstances I shall have occasion to relate with them may be of use to the giving some small light into the state of the opposite Coast of Sumatra which was the Scene of what I am going to speak of for tho I shall have other occasion to speak of Achin and Bencouli yet I shall not have opportunity to say any thing of this part oft hat Island opposite to Malacca unless I do it here To go on therefore with his Story it seems Captain Johnson was part owner of the small Bencooly Sloop but thinking it too small for his turn he came to Malacca intending to buy a larger Sloop of the Dutch if he could light on a bargain He had the best part of a thousand Dollars in Spanish money aboard for which one may purchase a good Sloop here for the Dutch as I have before observ'd do often buy Proe-bottoms for a small matter of the Malayans especially of the people of Jihore and convert them into Sloops either for their own use or to sell. Of these sort of Vessels therefore the Dutch men of Malacca have plenty and can afford good pennyworths and doubtless it was for this reason that Captain Johnson came hither to purchase a Sloop Here he met with a bargain not such a Proe-bottom reformed but an old ill shaped thing yet such a one as pleased him The Dutch man who sold him this Vessel told him withal that the Government did not allow any such dealings with the English tho they might wink at it and that therefore the safest way for them both to keep out of trouble would be to run over to the other side the Streights to a Town called Bancalis on Sumatra where they might safely buy and sell or exchange without any notice taken of them Captain Johnson accepting the offer they sailed both together over to Bancalis a Malayan Town on that Coast commanding the Country about it There they came to an anchor and Captain Johnson paying the price agreed on for the Vessel he had her delivered to him The Dutchman immediately returned over to Malacca again leaving Captain Johnson with 2 Vessels under his Command viz. the Sloop that he brought from Bencooly and this new bought Vessel The Bencooly Sloop he sent into a large River hard by to Trade with the Malayans for Pepper under the Command of Mr. Wells He was no Seaman but a pretty intelligent person that came first out of England as a Soldier to serve the East India Company in the Island Santa Helena He lived sometime very meanly in that Island but having an aspiring mind he left that poor but healthy place to serve the Company at Bencooly which tho 't is accounted the most unhealthy place of any that we Trade too yet the hopes of preferment engaged him to remove thither After some stay there he was sent with Captain Johnson to assist him in this Pepper expedition more because he could use his Pen than his Hands in Sea service He had 3 or 4 raw Seamen with him to work the Sloop up into the River Captain Johnson stayed near Bancalis to fit his new Vessel for with other necessaries she wanted a new Boltsprit which he intended to cut here having a Carpenter with him for that purpose as also to repair and fit her to his mind He had also a few other raw Seamen but such as would have made better Landmen they having served the King of Siam as Soldiers and they were but lately come from thence with the French who were forced to leave that Country But here in the Indies our English are forced for want of better to make use of any Seamen such as they can get and indeed our Merchants are often put hard to it for want of Seamen Here are indeed Lascars or Indian Seamen enough to be hired and these they often make use of yet they always covet an English man or 2 in a Vessel to assist them Not but that these Lascars are some of them indifferent good Sailers and might do well enough but an English man will be accounted more faithful to be employed on matters of moment beside the more free Conversation that may be expected from them during the term of the Voyage So that tho oft times their English men are but ordinary Sailers yet they are promoted to some charge of which they could not be so capable any where but in the East Indies These Seamen would be in a manner wholly useless in Europe where we meet with more frequent and hard storms but here they serve indifferent well especially to go and come with the Monsoons but enough of that Mr. Wells being gone to purchase Pepper Capt. Johnson went ashore about 5 or 6 leagues from Bancalis Town with his Carpenter to cut a Boltsprit there being there plenty of Timber Trees fit for his
the Line in the Months of April and September but near the Line as a degree or two on each side the Winds are not so constant Indeed there they are so very uncertain that I cannot be particular so as to give any true Account of them Only this I know that Calms are very frequent there as also Tornadoes and sudden Gusts in which the Winds fly in a moment quite round the Compass CHAP. IV. Of Sea and Land-Breezes How Sea-Breezes differ from Common Trade-Winds The time and manner of their Rise And particularly at Jamaica Of the Land-Breezes The time and manner of their Rise As on the Isthmus of Darien and at Jamaica The places where these Winds blow strongest or slackest as at Gapes and Head Lands deep Bays Lagunes and Islands Seals-Skin Bladders used instead of Bark Loggs SEA-Breezes generally speaking are no other than the Common Trade-Wind of the Coasts on which they blow with this difference that whereas all Trade-Winds whether they are those that I call the general Trade-Winds at Sea or coasting Trade-Winds either constant or shifting do blow as well by Night as by Day with an equal briskness except when Tornadoes happen So contrarily Sea-Winds are only in the Day and cease in the Night and as all Trade-Winds blow constantly near to one Point of the Compass both where the constant Trade-Winds are or where they shift on the contrary these Sea-Winds do differ from them in this that in the Morning when they first spring up they blow commonly as the Trade-Winds on the Coast do at or near the same Point of the Compass but about Mid-Day they fly off 2 3 or 4 Points further from the Land and so blow almost right in on the Coast especially in fair Weather for then the Sea-Breezes are truest as for instance on the Coast of Angola the Land lies almost North and South there the Trade-Wind is from the S. S. W. to the S. W. the true Sea Breezes near the shore are at W. by S. or W. S. W. and so of any other Coast. These Sea-Breezes do commonly rise in the Morning about Nine a Clock sometimes sooner sometimes later they first approach the shore so gently as if they were afraid to come near it and oft-times they make some faint breathings and as if not willing to offend they make a halt and seem ready to retire I have waited many a time both ashore to receive the pleasure and at Sea to take the benefit of it It comes in a fine small black Curle upon the Water whenas all the Sea between it and the shore not yet reach'd by it is as smooth and even as Glass in Comparison in half an Hour's time after it has reached the shore it fans pretty briskly and so increaseth gradually till 12 a Clock then it is commonly strongest and lasts so till 2 or 3 a very brisk gale about 12 at Noon it also veres off to Sea 2 or 3 Points or more in very fair Weather After 3 a Clock it begins to dye away again and gradually withdraws its force till all is spent and about 5 a Clock sooner or later according as the Weather is it is lull'd asleep and comes no more till the next Morning These Winds are as constantly expected as the day in their proper Latitudes and seldom fail but in the wet Season On all Coasts of the main whether in the East or West Indies or Guinea they rise in the Morning and withdraw towards the Evening yet Capes and Head Lands have the greatest benefit of them where they are highest rise earlier and blow later Bays contrarily have the disadvantage for there they blow but faintly at best and their continuance is but short Islands that lye nearest East and West have the benefit of these Winds on both sides equally for if the Wind is at S. W. or S. W. by S. on the South side of any Island then on the North side it would be at N. W. or N. W. by N. i. e. in fair Weather but if turbulent Weather it would be E. S. E. on the Southside and E. N. E. on the other But this true Sea-Breeze does not veer so far out except only near the shore as about 3 or 4. Leagues distant for farther than that you will find only the right Coasting Trade-Wind This I have experienced in several Parts of the World particularly at Jamaica about which I have made many Voyages both on the North and the South side where I have experienced the Sea-Breezes very much to differ for on the South side I have found the true Sea-Wind after 12 a Clock and in very fair Weather at S. or S. S. E. though it sprung up in the Morning at E. S. E. or S. E. And on the North side I have found the Sea-Breez at N. or N. N. E. though it rose in the Morning at E. N. E. but whether there may be the like difference about smaller Islands as at Barbadoes c. I cannot determine tho' I am apt to believe there is not So much for the Sea-Winds next of the Land-Breezes Land-Breezes are as remarkable as any Winds that I have yet treated of they are quite contrary to the Sea-Breezes for those blow right from the shore but the Sea-Breez right in upon the shore And as the Sea-Breezes do blow in the Day and rest in the Night so on the contrary these do blow in the Night and rest in the Day and so they do alternately succeed each other For when the Sea-Breezes have performed their Offices of the Day by breathing on their respective Coasts they in the Evening do either withdraw from the Coast or lye down to rest Then the Land-Winds whose Office it is to breathe in the Night moved by the same order of Divine Impulse do rouze out of their private recesses and gently fan the Air till the next Morning and then their task ends and they leave the Stage There can be no proper time set when they do begin in the Evening or when they retire in the Morning for they do not keep to an hour but they commonly spring up between 6 and 12 in the Evening and last till 6 8 or 10 in the Morning They both come and go away again earlier or later according to the Weather the Season of the Year or some accidental Cause from the Land For on some Coasts they do rise earlier blow fresher and remain later than on other Coasts as I shall shew hereafter They are called Land-Winds because they blow off shore contrary to the Sea-Breez which way soever the Coast lies Yet I would not so be understood as if these Winds are only found to breathe near the shores of any Land and not in the Inland Parts of such Countries remote from the Sea for in my Travells I have found them in the very heart of the Countries that I have passed through as particularly on the Isthmus of Darien and the Island of Jamaica Both
and fall about 8 or 9 foot and the Flood there runs to the East and the Ebb to the West In the Gulph of Dulce and Neicoya River they rise to 10 or 11 Foot but on the Coast of Peru they don't rise so high especially on all the Coast between Cape St. Francis and the River Guiaquil there the Flood runs to the South and the Ebb to the North. At the Island Plata the Tide rises and falls 3 or 4 Foot but from Cape Blanco in about 3 d. South to 30 d. South the Tides are smaller there they rise and fall not above a Foot and a half or 2 Foot The Flood on this Coast sets to the South and the Ebb to the North. In all my Crusings among the Privateers I took notice of the risings of the Tides because by knowing it I always knew where we might best hall ashore and clean our ships which is also greatly observed by all Privateers In most Places of the West Indies the Tide flows but little over what it does in our Channel In the East Indies also the Tides are but small on most Coasts neither are they so regular as with us The most irregular Tides that I did ever meet with are at Tonqueen in about 20d North Latitude and on the Coast of New Holland in about 17 d. South In both these places the neap Tides are scarce discernable Those of Tonqueen are described at large by Mr. Davenport who was imployed by Mr. James when he was chief of the English Factors there to observe them And the whole Discourse is published in The Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society whither I refer you At New Holland I had two Months time to observe the Tides There the Flood runs E. by N. and the Ebb W. by S. And they rise and fall about five Fathom In all the Springs that we lay here the highest were 3 Days after the Full or Change and that without any perceptible Cause in the Winds or Weather I must confess we were startled at it and though some of us had observed it in the Springs that happened while we lay on the Sand to clean our Ship as I have mentioned in my former Volume Entituled A New Voyage round the World Ch. XVI Page 471. yet in that Spring that we designed to hall off in order to be gone from thence we did all take more particular notice of it than in the preceding Springs for many had not taken notice of it before And therefore the Major part of the Company supposing that it was a mistake in us who made those former Observations expected to hall off the Ship the third Tide after the Change but our Ship did not float then nor the next Tide neither which put them all into an amazment and a great Consternation too For many thought we should never have got her off at all but by dig-ging away the Sand and so clearing a Passage for her into the Sea But the sixth Tide cleared all those doubts for the Tide then rose so high as to float her quite up when being all of us ready to work we hall'd her off and yet the next Tide was higher than that by which we were now all throughly satisfied that the Tides here do not keep the same time as they do in England This I must also observe That here was no River nor Lagune nor any other Indraught on the Land near us that might occasion these great Tides tho 't is very probable that the great Bending between New Holland and New Guinea may have both Rivers and Lagunes which may cause these great Tides or else there may be a Passage of the Sea between both Places as it is laid down in some Draughts Or if neither of these there may be at least a large and deep Sound This is the more probable because of the extraordinary Flood that sets to the East-ward in all that Sea between New Holland and the Islands lying North of it which we most sensibly perceived when we were near New Holland And such a Tide as this must of necessity have a greater Indraught than barely a River or Lagune and 't is the more likely still that this Tide should have a Passage through between New Holland and New Guinea or at least a deep Sound there because it keeps along by the Main and doth not run in among the Islands to the North of it And besides the Northermost Promontory of New Holland shoots down almost to the Line which seems to be a Barrier to it on that side therefore it may in reason be supposed to have its Passage some other way but of this guess I have said enough In the Streights of Malacca the Flood sets to the East and the Ebb to the West I have found the Tides at Malacca Town to rise and fall about six Foot on a Spring I had the Experience of two Spring-Tides when I was Captain Minchins Mate as is before-mentioned in my Voyage from Achin to Malacca On the East-side of the African Coast between the Cape of Good Hope and the Red-Sea the Tide keeps its constant Course The Flood runs to the South-ward the Ebb to the North-ward And at a Spring-tide in the Rivers on that Coast the Tide rises and falls six Foot especially in the River of Natal in Lat. 30 d. South I have this Relation from Capt. Rogers who is a very ingenious Person and well experienced on that Coast and is now gone Commander of a small Vessel thither to Trade Having already largely treated of Tides I come now to speak somewhat of Currents CUrrents and Tides differ many ways for Tides run forward and back again twice every 24 Hours on the contrary Currents run a Day a Week nay sometimes more one way and then it may be run another way In some particular Places they run six Months one way and six Months another In other Places they constantly run one way only a day or two about Full Moon and then they run strong against the former Course and after that return the same way again In some Places they run constantly one way and never shift at all The force of Tides is generally felt near the shore whereas Currents are at a remote distance neither are the Effects of them sensibly decerned by the rising or falling away of the Water as those of the Tides are for these commonly set along shore 'T is generally observed by Seamen that in all Places where Trade-winds blow the Current is influenced by them and moves the same way with the Winds but 't is not with a like swiftness in all Places neither is it always so discernable by us in the wide Ocean as it is near to some Coast and yet it is not so discernable neither very near any Coast except at Capes and Promontories that shoot far forth out into the Sea and about Islands also the Effects of them are felt more or less as they lye in the way