in the morning to twelue We come out at first tenne companions in this iourney but at the very comming out 〈◊〉 six of them left vs despairing to passe against a contrary winde in a foule rainy day and their feet sticking fast in the dirt and they mocked at our obstinacy in going Within a while my selfe was wet to the skinne and my shooes at euery step were almost to the off so as I was forced to binde them on with foure points neither did any of vs looke backe at his fellow to helpe him if hee could not follow and if I should haue fallen into the Sea I am confident none of them would haue come back to succour me After we had gone halfe a mile one of our foure companions being a young man with a blacke beard able body would not goe one foot further though he had but one Stiuer in his purse and was forced to borrow money of vs that he might stay in a poore Ale-house When we came to Aldernsea the Free-booters spies came to the Inne gaped vpon vs so as though I were wet to the skin yet I durst not pull off any thing to dry sest my inward garments better then my vpper should betray my disguise neither durst I call for wine and spend freely lest they should thinke I had store of money Each of vs paied seuen Stiuers for his dinner Here another of our companions left vs being so tired as hee went to bed without eating one bit So as now I had onely one companion left called Anthony a man of little stature and a Citizen of Emden We so be free of this dangerous iourney went forward and as we came out of the Village the Free-booters spies came close to vs and beheld vs narrowly but seeing vs all couered with dirt they tooke vs for poore men and a prey vnfit to be followed Wee gathering vp strength went on till at last wee were so weary as hauing no strength to chuse our way wee cast away our staues and went almost vp to the knees in dirt in the lower way At last hauing gone one mile as me thought wondrous long from one of the clocke in the afternoone to fiue wee came to Emden where my selfe entring the gate could not stand till the Souldiers writ our names but had lyen downe on the ground if they had not giuen mee a seat Now being out of all danger of the Free-booters in giuing my name I wrote my selfe an English-man the standers by not a little wondring that I had put my self to this dangerous passage And truly this iourney if it were free from all danger yet the ill diet and lodging would yeeld trouble enough for which I appeale to Lipsius who hath pleasantly written of the entertainement in West-Phalen and Oldenburg The Citie of Emden lies in the vtmost border of the Empire and is onely diuided by the Riuer Emsz from the vnited Prouince of Netherland and by an Inland Sea from West Freez-land being one of them The Countrey about Emden aboundeth with villages and from a Tower at Goricome a man may see at once vpon a saire day twenty two walled Townes Not farre from this City neere 〈◊〉 is the place where the Duke of Alūa defeated the forces of Lodwick of Nassaw his Dutch-men refusing to fight except they were first paied All the fields about Emden are drowned in winter and the City lying vpon the Sea for want of fresh waters they dresse most of their meat with raine water The aire is very vnhealthfull but the City is fairely built of bricke and the Citizens are very curteous On the South side the Riuer Emsz washeth the City with his salt streames on which side is the Hauen and the Citizens are said to haue some three score ships of a hundred tunnes a peece and some six hundred barkes of their owne In the Church-yard on this side many peeces of Ordinance are laid towards Leere and Dunort the Counts Fort and the like are laid vpon the Hauen and some places of aduantage for the City hath no walles on this side On the West side beyond the water lyeth Marish ground to the mouth of the Sea and vpon this side is a strong old Castle On the North side the City is compassed with a wall of earth and deepe ditches full of water and there be two strong gates Belgar-port and New-port without which the fields are Fenny On this side there is a passage by boat to the suburbes on the East side where the fields without the towne are faire pastures in summer but all ouerflowed in winter and vpon the Rampier of the wall are many Winde-mils The City is of a round forme if it were not somewhat longer from the East to the West At Emden they pay ordinarily six Stiuers a meale three stiuers for a quart of English beere eleuen Stiuers for a quart of Spanish wine thirteene Stiuers a quart of Rhenish wine and seuen Stiuers for French wine my selfe paid for supper and breakfast twenty three Stiuers CHAP. IIII. Of my iourney from Emden in Germany to Leyden in Holland and through the vnited Prouinces of the Low-Countries ON Thursday the twenty seuen of October in the yeere 1592 I tooke ship after dinner at Emden being to saile into West Freesland one of the vnited Prouinces and paied for my passage tenne Stiuers The same night wee cast anchor neere Vrspenhurn a Fort seated beyond the Emsz and belonging to the States of the vnited Prouinces and beyond this Port towards Plaunders on the same side of the Emsz lieth the Territory of the City Groning seated in an Iland rich in pastures and at this time gouerned by a Spanish Garrison which the Citizens had willingly receiued though the States after besieged this City and droue out the Spaniards and vnited the City to the rest As we lay at Anchor two little Ilands lay on the North side one subiect to Emden the other to Groning and beyond them lay the German Sea On Friday wee set saile with a scant winde and towards night were left vpon a Flat vulgarly called Gat where the water forsaking vs we walked out of the ship vpon the sand compassed round about with the Sea till the same flowing backe againe our ship floated On Saterday we set saile againe and towards night rested vpon a like Flat expecting the floud Three of these Flats are in this Inland sea and there be two like Flats in the Inland sea beteene Freesland and Holland At last wee landed on Sunday in Freesland at the Village Aniou lying neere the Sea shore whether wee hired a sledge for eight stiuers and were drawne thither ouer the yce and snow After we had dined for twelue stiuers each man whereof more then halfe was reckoned for drinke we went in a skeut by water in foure houres space one mile to Dockam and each man paid for his passage foure stiuers and a halfe we could not passe
store of Dolphins did againe swimme about our ship which they say doe foretell that the winde will blow from that quarter whether they swimme and the same daie in the maine Sea greater Dolphins and in greater number did play about our ship On Thurseday in the morning we did leaue on the South side the Iland Zante subiect to the Venetians and seuentie miles distant from Cephalania the description of which Iland I deferre to my returne this way and so we sailed close by the shoare of Peloponesus or Morea on the North side Peloponesus is almost an Iland ioyned on the North side to Achaia by a narrow neck of land which many of old haue attempted to cut and to make that Prouince an Iland and it containeth large Counties or Territories of Greece Wee sayling along the South side of this Prouince did see the Cities Coron Modon and Nauarin and somewhat lower towards the South was a little Iland called Striualli which is barren and inhabited by Grecian Monks called Caloiri who came out to vs in a boat to begge almes and the Patron of our ship in honour of our Lady or Virgin Marie of Striualli saluted the Iland with some pieces of Ordinance Vpon Friday the tenth of May we sailed by the foresaid City Modon seated in Greece and one hundred miles distant from the Iland Zante The eleuenth day in the morning we sailed by the Promontory called the Cape of Modon and within sixe howers sailing were out of the sight of any part of Morea But in the euening we came to the Cape of S. Iohn the first Promontory of the Iland Candia distant some one hundred and fifty miles I alwaies vnderstand Italian miles being now amongst the Italians from Modon the foresaid Citie of Morea and these high Mountaines of Candia were yet couered on the top with snow We sayled on the South side of Candia and towards euening passed by the middle part of the Iland and the thirteenth day by nine of the clock in the morning wee sailed by the Cape of Salomon being towards the East the furthest part of Candia the description of which Iland I deferre to my comming backe that way At this time our Marriners aswell Greekes as Italians were greatly offended with one of our French Consorts a Lay man because at dinner time according to the negligent fashion of the French he turned the cleane side of his trencher vpward for of all men the Marriners and of all Marriners the Greekes and Italians are most superstitious and if any thing in the ship chance to be turned vp-side downe they take it for an ill signe as if the ship should be ouerwhelmed Otherwise I neuer obserued that either the chiefe or inferiour Mariners euer vsed the least disrespect to any passenger being rather louing and familiar to them in conuersation And I remember that my brother Henry vsing to walke vpon the highest hatches the Patron and Scriuano and others did with smiling obserue his fast walking and melancholy humour yet howsoeuer it was troublesome to them did onely once and that curteously reproue him or rather desire him that he would haue respect to the Mariners who watched al night for the publike safety and were then sleeping vnder the hatches Alwaies vnderstand that a man may not bee so bold in another mans house as in his owne and may yet lesse be bold in a ship of strangers and that an vnknowne passenger must of all other be most respectiue And whereas Mariners are held by some to be theeuish surely in the Hauen at the iournies end where theeues easily find receiuers it is good to be wary in keeping that belongs to you but at sea no place is more safe then a shippe where the things stolne are easily found and the offenders seuerely punished On Sunday the nineteenth of May we came to the first Promontory of the Iland Cyprus towards the West and after eight houres sayling we came to the old City Paphos or Paphia now called Baffo and the wind failing vs and gently breathing vpon this Castle of Venus we houered here all the next night gaining little or nothing on our way This place is most pleasant with fruitfull hils and was of old consecrated to the Goddesse Venus Queene of this Iland and they say that Adamants are found here which skilfull Iewellers repute almost as precious as the Orientall A mile from this place is the Caue wherein they faigne the seuen sleepers to haue slept I know not how many hundred yeeres The twenty one of May towards the euening we entred the Port of Cyprus called Le Saline the two twentith day obtaining licence of the Turkish Cady to goe on land we lodged in the Village Larnica within a Monastery of European Friars Here some of vs being to saile to Ioppa and thence to goe by land to Ierusalem did leaue the Venetian ship which sailed forward to Scanderona The Turkes did conquer the Iland Ciprus from the Venetians in the yeere 1570 and to this day possesse it the chiefe Cities whereof are Nicosia seated in the middest of the Iland and Famogosta seated in the furthest part of the Iland towards the East The Turkish Basha or Gouernour vseth to chuse Famogosta for his seate though Nicosia be the fairer City because it hath a good Hauen and a most strong Fort which the Venetians built The Iland lieth two hundred forty miles in length from the west to the East and hath some eighty miles in bredth six hundred miles in compasse This Iland is said to be distant some foure hundred miles from the Iland of Candia which is some two hundred and thirty miles long but I speake of the next Promontories in both of them and from Venice some two thousand two hundred and twenty miles from Alexandria in AEgypt some foure hundred and fifty miles from Alexandretta at this day called Scanderona the Hauen of Caramania eighty miles from Tripoli of Syria ninety miles and from Ioppa a Hauen in Palestina about two hundred and fifty miles speaking of the vttermost Promontories on all sides This Iland yeeldeth to no place in fruitfulnesse or pleasure being inriched with Corne Oile Cheese most sweet Porkes Sheepe hauing tailes that weigh more then twenty pound Capers growing vpon pricking bushes Pomegranats Oranges and like fruites Canes or Reedes of sugar which they beat in mils drawing out a water which they seeth to make sugar with rich wines but gnawing or burning the stomacke odoriferous Cipres trees whereof they make siers store of Cotton and many other blessings of nature Neere the Promontory Del'Gatto so called of Cats that vse to kill Serpents they take Falcons which Hawkes the Gouernours are commanded to send to Constantinople They sowe corne in the moneth of October and reape it in Aprill I know not how it comes to passe that in this Iland of Venus all fruites taste of salt which Venus loued well And I thought that this
Barber-Surgean of a ship yet could I neuer doubt of recouering my health but my minde still presaged that I should returne home Yet when diuers times I began to 〈◊〉 and presently by the heate of the clime and ill aire of the place had been cast downe againe I resolued to follow their counsell who perswaded me to trie if the aire of the sea would strengthen me Therefore my deare friend Master George Dorington hauing sent me one hundred zechines for my expences the great summes of money which I had being all spent by the accidents of my brothers death and my sicknesse the particulars of which expence I omit because in this griefe and weakenesse I had no minde to note them onely for a taste remembring that I paid a piastro each day to a poore man who continually cooled my heate with a fan Master Dorington I say hauing sent me money and I hauing prouided all necessaries for my iourney at last vpon Thursday the tenth of October after the new stile and in the yeere 1596 I was carried aboard a French Ship of Marsiles partly by the helpe of Porters partly in a boate being so weake as I could not stand This ship was called Iohn Baptist and the Christian name of the Master was Simon with whom I had couenanted that I paying him thirtie piastri or duckets for my selfe and my seruant he should set vs on land in some good Hauen of the Iland Candia and if it were possible in the chiefe Citie thereof called Candia and lying on the North side of the Iland whence I was now resolued to take my iourney to Constantinople leauing all thought of going by land Vpon Friday the eleuenth of October we sayled prosperously but after the windes grew so contrary as we were driuen to the South of Candia Therefore the French Marriners murmuring against vs as hereticks causing their ill passage and there being no hope left with those windes to set vs on land at Candia the chiefe Citie the Master of our ship sent vs in his boat with some few Marriners which hee least esteemed that we might sayle to land being fiftie miles distant Thus vpon Thursday the three and twentieth of October hauing sayled eight howers in great danger towards the euening we landed vnder a Promontory of Candia where there was neither citie village house nor cottage so as plenty of raine falling that night yet we were forced to lie in an open boat where my companion or seruant not knowing our danger slept soundly but my selfe durst neuer close mine eyes fearing lest these Marriners being Marsilians who at that time little loued the English should offer vs violence to gaine our goods This consort or seruant of mine was an English man and by profession a Cooke and was come into these parts to serue Master Sandy who being sent from London to be the English Consull at Haleppo as he passed from Constantinople thither died in Asia Minor of the same disease whereof my brother died and in the same moneth This seruant being after his Masters death to returne into England I tooke to attend mee that I might by his company auoide solitude and mittigate some part of my sorrow He was no sooner entered into the French ship but he presently fell sicke and not able to serue himselfe could not giue me the expected comforts much lesse doe me any seruice but greatly increased my charge spending all vpon my purse much troubled me hauing not himselfe the least skil in any forraine language so as he recouering not till we came to Venice where being among Christians I had small vse of his helpe hee was rather a burthen then a comfort to me When I was to enter the French ship I laid in prouisions of Hennes Egges Damaske Prunes and other things but my languishing stomack not desiring not being able to digest any other then salt meate these prouisions fell to the share of my sicke seruant and my self being nothing but skin and bone as one that languished in a Consumption my bloud and humours renued with these salt meates could not but weaken my future health so as I hauing been alwaies very leane after by decay of naturall heate became very fat and hauing lost the retentiue faculty of my stomack so as I continually cast all that lay vpon it so soone as in the morning I came into the aire I had no remedie against this weakenesse but the taking of Tobacco The French Marriners who brought vs to the shoare of Candia parted from vs on Friday the twenty fiue of Iuly after the new stile early in the morning and when I had well rewarded them for their paines then first they shewed me aboue the wilde Rockes called Calisminiones a Monastery of the Greeks some three miles distant and called Santa Maria Ogidietra We being left alone and staying there fasting till noone at last espied and called to vs two men passing by vpon the Mountaines but they thinking vs to bee Pirats fled away as fast as they could Presently behold my man comming out of the Wood and bringing with him an Asse which hee had found there who perswaded me to lay my baggage on that beast and so to walke softly towards the Monastery I willingly tried my strength and leaning vpon our two swords for want of a staffe and yet often falling went forward like a snaile till despairing of going further I fell vpon the ground After an howers space a Shepheard passing by and I shewing him gold and naming Monastery which word he vnderstood he swiftly ran to the Monastery and telling the Monkes called by the Greekes Caloiri our state and condition they presently sent a seruant to vs who in the Italian tongue telling vs the great danger wherein we should be if we staied vpon those Mountaines till night aduised vs to make haste to the Monastery Thus driuen with feare and incouraged by his company I tried againe to goe forward and with great trouble passed one mile ouer the Mountaines For leaning as I said on two swords and vpon the passage of any steepe Mountaine by reason of the lightnesse of my head creeping vpon hands and feete with great difficulty I went so farre And now being not able to goe any further no not to saue my life behold a boy who came to water his Assears Fountaine adioyning to whom the seruant of the Monkes gaue a piastro and so whether he would or no tooke his Asse and set me vpon it and so at last wee passed the other two miles longer then three English miles and came to the Monastery The Caloiri or Monkes receiued vs curteously and gaue vs such victuals as they had namely Pomegranates Oliues Bread and sharpe Wine which were no good meates for sicke men hauing fasted almost two dayes Also they conferred louingly with vs but still desiring vs to keepe aloofe from them At bed time they gaue vs a straw mat to lay vpon a plastred floare for
six Quatrines a Soldo and two Deniers of Genoa a Quatrine 114 Soldi of Milan make a siluer Crowne 20 Soldi a Lire and a Lire and a halfe makes one Lire of Genoa For Turkey The siluer Crowne or Piastro worth fiue shillings English is giuen heere for 70 there for 80 or more Aspers A Meidine of Tripoli is an Asper and an halfe a Meidine of Caiero three Aspers and an Asper some three farthings English For France Twelue Deniers make a Soulz fourteene Soulz and a halfe a Testoone fifteene Soulz a Quart d'escue twenty Soulz a Franke sixtie Soulz a French Crowne or six shillings English AN ITINERARY VVRITTEN By FYNES MORYSON Gent. First in the Latine Tongue AND THEN TRANSLATED By him into ENGLISH AN ITINERARY WRITTEN BY FYNES MORYSON Gent. CONTAINING His ten yeeres trauels thorovv TWELUE DOMINIONS The First Part. The First BOOKE CHAP. I. Of my iourny from London in England to Stode Hamburg Lubeck Luneburg my returne to Hamburg and iourney to Magdeburg Leipzig Witteberg and the neighbouring Cities in Germany BEing a Student of Peter-house in Cambridge and entred the eighteenth yeere of my age I tooke the degree of Bachelar of Arts and shortly after was chosen Fellow of the said Colledge by Queene Elizabeths Mandat Three yeers expired from my first degree taken in the Vniuerfitie I commenced Master of Arts and within a yeere after by the fauour of the Master and Fellowes I was chosen to a vacant place of Priuiledge to studie the Ciuill Lawes Then as well for the ornament of this profession as out of my innated desire to gaine experience by trauelling into forraigne parts to which course my Parents had giuen consent some few yeers past vpon my first declaring of my inclination to the said profession vpon the priuiledge of our Statutes permitting two of the Society to trauell I obtained licence to that purpose of the said Master and Fellowes in the yeere 1589 being then full 23 yeeres old And presently leauing the Vniuersiy I went to London there to follow some studies fit to inable me in this course and there better taught and these studies the visiting of my friends in the Country my going to Oxford to take the same degree I had in Cambridge and some oppositions vpon new deliberation made by my father and friends against my iourney detained me longer in those parts then I purposed At last in the beginning of the yeere 1591 and vpon the first day of May I tooke ship at Liegh distant from London twenty eight miles by land and thirtie six by water where Thames in a large bed is carried into the Sea Thence we set saile into the maine and the eight day of our sailing the Merchants Fleet of sixteene ships being dispersed by a fogge and tempest two Dunkerke Pirats followed our ship till by Gods mercy the fog being cleared after some few houres and two of our ships vpon our discharging of a great Peece drawing towards vs the Pirates despairing left to pursue vs. That they were Pirates was apparant since as wee for triall turned our sayles they likewise fitted themselues to our course so as wee though flying yet prepared our selues to fight till God thus deliuered vs. The ninth day towards night wee fell vpon an Iland called the holy-Holy-land vulgarly Heiligland and not daring to enter the Riuer Elue before the next morning wee strucke all sayles and suffered our ship to bee tossed too and fro by the waues all that night which Marriners call lying at Hull This Iland hath onely one Port capeable of some sixe ships in the forme of the Moone decreasing and lying open to the East On the North side is a great Rocke and the rest of the shore is all of high Cliffes It is subiect to the Duke of Holste and by that title to the King of Denmarke but the inhabitants are so poore as they yeeld no other tribute then stones for the Dukes building It is in circuit some three miles and hath about one hundred Families The tenth day we entred the Riuer Elue and landed at Stode This is an ancient Citie and one of the Empires free Cities and one of those Sea-Townes which from the priuiledge of traffick with their Neighbours are called Free Cities vulgarly Hansteten but of late was become so poore as they had sold the priuiledge of coyning money and some like Rights to Hamburg till the English Merchants remouing their seate of trafficke from Hamburg to Stode it began lately to grow rich not without the enuy and impouerishment of the Hamburgers In the Dutch Inns I paid for each meale foure Lubeck shillings and an halfe and in the English Innes eight pence English In the great winding and troubled Streame of Elue which ebs and flowes as high as Luneburg certaine Booyes are laid to shew the channels and sholes of the Riuer and the maintaining of each of them cost 40 pounds yeerely and of all a thousand pounds at the least at the common charge of Stode and Hamburg but after frosts begin they are taken vp and reserued to the next Spring Of old when Stode flourished this charge belonged onely to it taking some contributions of the other Cities for the same This free Citie had then chosen the Bishop of Breme for their Protector and had but small scattered reuenewes to the value of ninety pounds sterling by the yeere but the soile is so fertile as they milke their Cowes thrice each day Of late the Hamburgers had in vaine attempted by Nauall forces to forbid the arriuall of the English at Stode whom as they had grieued hauing their seate with them as well with exactions as with forbidding them free exercise of Religion so now sometimes by laire treatie sometimes by force they laboured to draw backe vnto them Those of Stode haue by priuiledge the preemption and choice of Rhenish Wines passing by them This Citie might be made strong if the workes they haue begun were perfected The fields of the North and East sides may bee drowned and because the high Hilles towards the West and South though somewhat distant seemed to threaten danger they had on those sides raised an high and broad wall of earth fastned on the out-side with Willowes in which place an Armory for all munitions was built but the gates of the Citie for ridiculous ostentation of strength were furnished with Artillery of stone painted ouer The territory without the City belongs on the West side to the Bishop of Breame and on the East side to the Earle of Scbeneburg and the Duke of Holst From Stode to Hamburg are fiue miles In a Waggon hired for fiue Lubecke shillings each person wee passed two miles then crossing the Elue not without danger in respect of the shallow places and present storme wee hired another Waggon for foure Lubeck shillings each person and through thicke woods passed the other three miles to Hamburg The passage by water to Hamburg had beene much easier especially for
we had striuen yea and repined against his diuine prouidence which with humble and hearty sorrow I confesse to the glory of his sacred name In this Iland I paied for my supper and bed ten stiuers for my breakfast and dinner eight stiuers On Wednesday we had a most faire winde but the terrour of our last escape made vs stay in the harbour In the euening I went to lodge in the village and paied tenne stiuers for my supper and bed and there I saw great store of all kindes of shel-fish sold for a very small price Since this iourney by Sea had besides our expectation proued so difficult my selfe though I had seene the Cities vpon the sea coast of Germany yet preferring my safety before the charge and trouble of that way did resolue to passe to Hamburg by land with which purpose when I acquainted my consorts suddenly al the passengers resolued to leaue the ships and to go by land at which resolution the Masters of the ships stormed but when each of vs had payed them a Doller for our passage from Amsterdam to the Fly they were well pacified My selfe and nine consorts in my company hired a boat for thirty stiuers each man paying three stiuers and so vpon Thursday in foure houres space wee sailed three miles to Harlingen a City of west Freesland passing the aforesaid Inland sea And the same day hiring a boat for which each man paied six stiuers wee passed a mile to the City Froniker where is an Vniuersity and passing by water through the midst of that pleasant little City we passed two miles further to Lewerden where we lodged and I paied for my supper ten stiuers The next morning being Friday wee passed in six houres space two long miles to Dockam and each man paied for his boate hire three stiuers Without delay in the afternoone we entred a barke to saile from West Freesland one of the vnited Prouinces into East Freesland a Prouince of the German Empire but scarce one mile from the towne we cast anchor to expect the floud and lying there we heard from the land great noise barking of dogs cries of men and sounding of bells which proceeded from some Spanish Free-booters breaking out of Groning to spoile the Peasants All the next day wee sailed and in the euening for our better safety wee cast anchor neere a man of warre whereof there be some appointed to lie in this Inland Sea to guard the friends of the States and early the next morning being Sunday wee set saile and by the rising of the sunne landed in the Iland of Rotermere which is diuided from the continent by this Inland Sea and hath the maine Sea on the other side whence soone after we parted and were put on land in East Freesland a Prouince of the Empire and passing one mile on foot came to the City of Emden I said that the States maintained some men of warre in this Inland Sea and these vsed to send out in lesser boates some bodies of men to search the Barkes whether they be friends or not which bodies of men are vulgarly called Dieiagt that is the hunting of a metaphor taken from the hunting of dogs For my passage from Dockam to Emden I paid ten stiuers and here for supper and breakefast I paid twenty three stiuers though the ordinary rate be but sixe stiuers a meale without wine and for a pound of cherries I paid eight stiuers In our iourney to Stode the first day wee came in sixe houres space three miles to the village Detrem vpon the confines of the county of Emden passing through fruitfull corne fields and faire meadowes and being eight in the Waggon we all paid fifteene stiuers for the same From hence we went a mile through wild and fenny fields to the village Open and each foure consorts paid for their Waggon three stiuers and our Waggon was driuen by a woman Here the Graue or Count of Oldenburg hath a Castle and each man paid for his supper seuen groates By night we passed foure miles through a wild heath to Oldenburg and foure consorts paid ten stiuers for a Waggon They haue very little horses in these parts to draw the Waggons like to the gallo way nags of Scotland The second day wee passed two miles and a halfe in foure houres space through a sandy heath ground and thicke woods of oake and came to a Village where each man paid for his dinner foure stiuers After dinner we passed more then a mile through a like wooddy Heath and in three houres space came to Delmerhurst where the Count of Oldenburge hath a faire and strong Castle though it be a poore Village and here each man paid halfe a stiuer to the Count and for our Waggon ten stiuers The same day we passed a mile through sandy pastures and in three houres space came to Breme where each man paid for our Waggon foure groats and for our supper fiue lubecke shillings From Breme we passed foure miles through wild fields yeelding some little corne and thicke woods and in sixe houres space came to a poore house where each man paid for dinner fiue lubecke shillings Here those which carried any merchandise paid tole and one man hauing a packe which a man might carry on his shoulder paid foure lubecke shillings for the same but all that goe to study in Vniuersities or be no Merchants are free from this imposition After dinner we passed three miles in fiue houres space to Furd where each man paid for his supper fiue lubecke shillings The next day from two of the clocke in the morning to seuen wee passed three miles through a heath and woods of oake and came to Stode where each man paid for his Waggon from Breme twenty two Lubecke shillings At Stode I paid for my dinner in a Dutch Inne foure Lubecke shillings and a halfe and for a steifkin or measure of Rhenish wine halfe a doller I briefly passe ouer this iourney vpon the sea-coast of Germany because I formerly discribed the same The one and twenty of Iuly I passed in foure houres space by boat fiue miles to Hamburge and paid for my passage by water three Lubecke shillings for my supper foure and one for my bed Early in the morning I passed six miles in sixe houres space through wild fenny fields woods of oake and some few fields of corne and came to the Village Altslow seated in a bogge whereof it hath the name where I paid for my dinner fiue Lubecke shillings and a halfe Giue me leaue to tell you a ridiculous toy yet strange and true At Hamburge gate leading to Lubecke we found a dogge that followed vs and some passengers of credit assured mee that for many yeeres this dogge had lien at that gate and euery day without intermission watching the first Coach that came forth had followed the same to this village Altslow being the bayting place at noone and after dinner had returned backe to Hamburge gate with
cloth as would couer the same with a Rose-noble at the corner of each cloth Others tell a fable of like credit that it was once sold to a Merchant whom they scoffed when he came to take possession bidding him take away the earth he had bought The great reuenew exacted in this straight hath giuen occasion to these and the like fables And in truth if either the King of Suetia or the free City of Lubeck had the possession of this Iland and were fortified therein they might easily command this passage and extort what they list from the Merchants passing that way and perhaps conquer the parts adioyning but the possession thereof were altogether vnprofitable for any Prince whose Territories lie out of the Sound the entrance whereof is forbid by the two foresaid strong Castles But lest I should bee as foolish as they I returne to my purpose And first giue me leaue to mention that there lies a City not farre distant in the Kingdome of Norway which is called London as the chiefe City in England is called Vpon Sunday the twenty six of August in the yeere 1593 I tooke an English ship heere to saile into Prussen hauing first bought for my victuals halfe a lambe for twelue Danish shillings thirty egges for six shillings and some few pots of Spanish wine for forty two Danish shillings with some other small prouisions From Elsinure to Dantzk they reckon eighty English miles Assoone as wee were come out of the harbour wee saw two ships sayling two contrary wayes and yet hauing both a forewind which sometimes happens vpon the shoare as marriners know For of these two contrary winds the one is airy which holds when you are gone into the maine the other is from the earth and in short time faileth at the very shore which euent we presently saw with our eyes one of the ships going fairely on his course the other casting anchor The English ship in which I went was called the Antilope being of one hundred fifty tuns or thereabouts and one Master Bodley was the Master thereof who shewed me manifest signes where his ship in two places had beene struck with lightning the first whereof passed into the pumpe and rent it but comming to the water was by the nature thereof carried vpward and comming out at the top of the pumpe made two little holes then passing to the great Mast rent it and made a great crany therein from the hatches to the top The second struck the top of the said maine Mast and againe rent it in such wise as it would scarcely beare saile till wee might come to Dantzk where the best Mastes are sold at a good rate The first day we sayled in the Baltick sea some fiue miles with a scant winde and cast anchor neere Copenhagen With a faire winde and good gaile Marriners vsually sayle some three Dutch leagues in an houre On Monday early wee sayled along the shore three miles to Falsterboden On Tuesday early wee sayled eighteene miles to the Iland Brentholm and vpon our left hands saw the land in two places and there sounding with our plummet sand of Amber stuck thereunto The same day by noone wee sayled the length of that Iland and vpon Wednesday by three of the clocke in the morning hauing sayled thirty miles we passed by Rose-head being a Promentory 〈◊〉 Dantzk On Thurs-day by eight of the clocke in the morning hauing sayled eighteene miles we came to a Land called Rettell and entered the Port of Meluin where the water was scarce two fadome deepe our ship drawing one fadome and a halfe the entry was narrow and there were many booyes floting vpon shoales sands and the weather being calme we were drawne in by a boate with Oares In like cases ships vse to draw themselues in by the casting and weighing of Anchors with great labour and flow riddance of way From Kettell we passed ten miles and came to the Port of Meluin Iu the aforesaid entry of the Riuer on the right hand towards the West we saw Dantzke seated not farre from the sea shore where it hath a hauen but not so safe as this and towards the North-east in the same place a channell runneth vp to Konigsberg the Court of the Duke of Prussen The Port of Meluin is searce ten foot deepe but our ship passed through the mud like a plow vpon land This port is a little distant from the City on the North-side where we entered by a faire large street called Martgasse lying thence towards the South Prussen of old was subiect to the order of the Teutonicke Knights but by agreement made betweene the King of Poland and the Margraue or Marques of Brandeburg Master of the said order part of the prouince was giuen to the said Marques and his heires with title of Duke vnder homage to the King of Poland with condition that for want of heire male it should returne to the Kingdome of Poland and the other part was then vnited to the said Kingdome but Dantzke and Meluin remained free Cities acknowledging the King of Poland for their Protector for which cause they giue him many customes and permit his Officer to abide in the City ard receiue the same Meluin is a little and faire City lately compassed with new wals and at this time grew rich by the English Merchants hauing their staple in the same They giue good fare for foure grosh a meale and he that paies for two meales in the day may besides haue meat or drinke betweene meales at pleasure without paying any thing The same euening we landed at Meluin our Marriners staying in the ship entertained other English Marriners comming aboard and according to their custome giuing them a peece when they departed it happened that the peece being of iron brake and therewith cut the Cooke off by the middle and rent all the prow of the ship The English Merchants at Meluin had no Preacher though the Citizens gaue them free exercise of religion so that how so euer they excused in by reason that learned Preachers could hardly be drawne to come so farre for meanes to liue yet I thought them not free of blame in this point because our Merchants further distant in Asia and liuing vnder the Turkes Empire found meanes by their bounty to haue learned Preachers Neither indeed did I euer obserue in any other place Italy excepted that our Merchants wanted Preachers where they held their staples From Meluin I went ten miles in one day to Dantzke and we being onely two conforts paid each of vs a Doller for our Coach In the morning we went sixe miles and by the way passed the Riuer Begot comming out of the riuer Vistula where our Coachman paid three grosh to haue his Coach carried ouer a damme Beyond this riuer we entered the territory of the King of Poland and passing all this way through fruitfull come fields and rich medowes and pastures in a Countrey abounding with
to behaue themselues modestly And I must truly witnesse that the Patron the Scriuano and the sub-patron vsed all passengers courteously yet so kept their grauitic as they had due respect at all times particularly at the Table where they did first set downe others expecting till they came then the Friers did sit downe and lastly the Lay-men in due order Neither doe any sit or walke vpon the highest hatches saue onely they who did eate at the Table of the Patron but the rest and all the Easterne people whom hee neuer admits to his Table were on the middle Hatch or at the Prow Vpon Wednesday in the morning we did see vpon the shoare of Italy the Mountaines of Ancona which are two hundred Italian miles distant from Venice Vpon Thursday the fiue and twentie of Aprill wee sailed by the Iland or Mountaine Poma or Pamo seated in the middest of the Gulfe of Venice which was a high Rock rising sharpe at the toppe and vninhabited where in the Autum they take Faulcons and we sailed by the Iland Saint Andrea distant one hundred miles from Ancona on the North side and the shoare of Italy on the South side And the same night wee sayled by the Iland Ischa and the next morning being Friday by the Ilands Buso Aulto Catsa and towards the euening by the Ilands Cazola Augusta and Palaofa for in this Gulfe of Venice bee many Ilands whereof the most are subiect to Venice and the rest to Raguza and other Lords and some towards the North-shoare to the great Turke Heere great store of Dolphines followed our ship and the voyce of the Marriners as they vse to doe and they playing about vs did swimme as fast as if they had flowne Then wee did see the Iland Liozena being all of Mountaines subiect to Venice and inhabited by Gentlemen where the Venetians had built a strong Fort vpon the Hauen for their Gallies And after fiue miles wee did see the Iland Curzola subiect to Venice and hauing a Bishop And the winde being high wee cast anchor neere Curzola but the winde soone falling we set sayle againe From the fixe and twentie of Aprill to Thurseday the second of May the South-East winde which the Italians call Syrocco did blow very contrary vnto vs. The third of May being Friday towards the euening we were driuen vpon the Northerne shoare and did see the Fort Cataro built on a Mountaine vpon the continent against Turkish Pirats and distant eighteene miles from Raguza the chiefe Citie of Selauonia which is free yet payes tribute to the Venetians and Turks their powerful neighbors Not farre thence the Turks also had a Fort built against the Venetians Raguza is some one hundred miles distant from the Iland Andrea and some foure hundred miles from Venice Vpon Saturday we sayled by the Promontorie of Saint Mary on the North side and Otranto a Citie of Apulia in Italy on the South side seeing them both plainely for now we were passing out of the Gulfe of Venice into the Mediterranean sea by this Straight some sixtie miles broad and some two hundred miles distant from Raguza Here we did ouertake a ship of Venice called Ragazona and that we might enioy one anothers company the Sea being calme for the time our ship being the lesse yet of some nine hundred Tunnes was fastned to the Sterne of the other ship by a Cable and towards the euening vpon the Greeke shore towards the North wee did see Vallona Now we were come forth of the Adriatique Sea otherwise called the Gulfe of Venice which hath in length some sixe hundred Italian miles and the breadth is diuers sometimes two hundred miles sometimes lesse betweene Ancona and the opposite Hauen Valdagosta seuentie miles and in the Straight we now passed sixtie miles broad On Sunday the fifth of May we did see the Mountaine Fanon and as I remember an Iland three miles distant from the Iland Corfu and vpon the Greeke shoare beyond the Iland we did see the most high Mountaines called Chimerae inhabited by the Albanesi who neither subiect to the Turkes nor Venetians nor any other doe vpon occasion rob all and the Venetians and the Kings of France and especially of Spaine vse to hire them in their warres The sixth of May wee sayled by the Promontory called the Cape of Corfu the description of which Iland I will deferre till my returne this way On Tuesday the seuenth of May wee sailed by the Iland Paro verie neere vs and the Iland Saint Maura ioyned by a bridge to the continent of Epirus and subiect to the Turkes and the Iland Ithaca vulgarly called by the Italians Compare also subiect to the Turkes and famous for their King Vlysses and some foure miles distant from the Iland Cepholania which towards euening wee did see being distant some one hundred miles from Corfu On Wednesday early in the morning wee entered a narrow Sea some two miles broad hauing Cephalonia the lesse on the North side and the greater Cephalonia on the South side and wee cast anchor neere a desart Rocke where of old there was an Vniuersitie and many of vs in our boat sent with Mariners to cut wood and take fresh water did go on land in the greater Cepholania to refresh our selues and to wash our bodies in the Sea water but wee durst not goe farre from our Marriners lest the inhabitants of those woodie Mountaines should offer vs violence Both the Ilands are subiect to Venice and abound with wines and small Currends and in time of warre the Inhabitants retire to a Fort built there by the Venetians to be safe from the Turks The Venetians euery third yeere chuse some of their Gentlemen to be sent hether for Gouernour and Officers The same Wednesday the eight of May towards the euening we set saile and before darke night passed by the Promontary called the Cape of Cepholania and did see on the North side the Ilands Corsolari some ten miles distant where the Nauy of the Pope King of Spaine and Venetians confederate hauing Don Iohn of Austria base brother to King Phillip of Spaine for their Generall obtained a noble Victorie in the yeere 1571 against the Nauy of the Turkes the Christians hiding there many of their Gallies that the Turkes comming out of the Gulfe of Corinth now called the Gulfe of Lepanto might despise their number and so be more easily drawne to fight In the mouth of the said Gulfe vpon the West shoare is the Castle of Toran or Torneze seated in Peloponesus a Prouince of Greece which the Turkes call Morea and in the bottom of the Gulfe Petrasso is seated in the same Prouince and Lepanto in the Prouince of Achaia and of these Cities this Gulfe of Corinth is in these dayes called sometimes the Gulfe of Lepanto sometimes the Gulfe of Petrasso In the Citie of Petrasso the English Merchants liue hauing their Consull and they trafficke especially for Currands of Corinth Neere Cepholania great
cast vp in the middest of the Sea with an eruption of flames and of Brimstone and that they are not inhabited but are commonly called the Diuels Ilands because many ships casting anchor there and fastning their Cables vpon land haue had their Cables loosed by spirits in the night and so suffered shipwrack or hardly escaped the same The night following we sailed in the middest of many Ilands which made that Channell very dangerous and for my part I was more affraid of the danger because our Candian Merchant growing acquainted with an harlot in the ship was not ashamed to haue the vse of her body in the sight of the Marriners that watched and much blamed him for the same Vpon Wednesday the two and twentie of December we sailed by the Iland Paros celebrated by Poets for the fine Marble growing there and so we came to the Iland Naxos two hundred miles distant from Candia Naxos and the adiacent Ilands had their owne Duke of old but now are subiect to the Turke as the other Ilands bee for the most part And our Marriners dwelling in this Iland and landing to see their wiues we also landed with them where I did see vpon a Hill like a Peninsul neere this chiefe Village two Marble images erected to Thesius and Ariadne Here I obserued that when any stranger or Inhabitant lands the beggers flock to the dores of the houses or Innes where they eate and hauing formerly obserued in the Greeke Church at Venice that when they gaue their Almes to beggers they not onely suffered them to touch their garments with their lousie rags but also tooke them familiarly by the hands I knew not whether I should attribute this fashion to their charitable affection in time of their bondage or to their seldom feasting and the multitude of beggars In the euening we loosed from Naxos and sailing ouer a channell no lesse dangerous then the former for the multitude of Ilands vpon the three and twentie of December we passed close by the shoare of the Iland Zio called Chios of old It is inhabited by Greekes as the other Ilands are and is famous for the pleasantnesse and fertiltie of the situation and soyle It yeeldeth great store of Mastick and the country people keepe flocks of raine Partridges as of Hens other where They brag that Homer lyes buried vpon the Mountaine Helias and this Iland hath Saint George for their protecting Saint and beares his Crosse in their Flags as England doth Here we might distinctly see the shoare of Asia in that part where of old the seuen Churches stood not farre distant to which Saint Iohn writes his Reuelation And the Iland Pathmos is not farre distant where Saint Iohn liued in exile Towards the euening we cast anchor neere the Iland Metelene which is seated as Zio in the Egean Sea and is no lesse pleasant and fertile Of old it was called Lesbos then Issa and after Pelasgia and therein were borne Pythagoras the Poet Alceus Antimenides Theophrastus Phanius Arion and Tersandrus and the famous woman Poet Sapho Zio is distant one hundred and forty miles from Naxos and Meteline ninety miles from Zio The foure and twenty of December being Christmas euen after the old stile vsed among the Greekes and in all Turkey early in the morning we weighed anchor and with a faire but gentle wind sayled close by the shoare where the City of Troy stood of old seated in a plaine and vpon pleasant hils neere the Sea and at this day the ruines of Illium the Castle of Priamus are seene vpon a hill and the ruines of the wals in the plaine yet shew the circuit of the City The Poets said truly Hic seges est vbi Troia fuit Corne growes now where Troy once stood Yet the plowed fields haue very many ruines of buildings On the North side of these Troian ruines a necke of Land lies towards the Sea where they say the Greekes encamped and left their fatall Troian Horse Right ouer against this Land lies the Iland Tenedos scarce ten miles distant in the Hauen whereof we cast anchor for an hower vnder a little Castle and this Tenedos is sixty miles distant from Metelene From hence sailing some eighteene miles we passed by two necks of Land one of Greece on the West-side the other of Asia the lesse now called Natolia on the East-side and after twelue miles saile we entered the streight of Hellespont now called the two Castles the description whereof I will defer till my returne this way The Greek Marriners haue a custome here to demand a gift of all Merchants passengers in their ship for ioy of their happy voyage and they say which I beleeue not that if any refuse they tie a rope to his feete and draw him vp to the top of the maste till he yeeld to this custome but howsoeuer we all obeyed this ridiculous custome not to offend them who had vsed vs well This channell running from the blacke sea called Euxinus into Propontis and so by Constantinople to these said two Castles and from hence into the AEgean sea from the North towards the South is alwaies contrary to those that sayle from the mediteranian sea to Constantinople especially after they enter this streight of the two Castles and neere Constantinople it runnes with such force towards the South as they that saile to the City whereof we had experience with the best winds yet sayle very slowly This violence of the Channell is attributed to great Riuers violently falling into the blacke Sea The foresaid Christmas euen we landed at Gallipolis a Greeke City seated in Thrace hauing the name as it seemes from the French and eight and twenty miles distant from the two Castles On Saturday the fiue and twenty of December being Christmas day after the old stile we set saile but the winds droue vs backe to the Hauen of Gallipolis where being detained some few daies though I staied in the ship for feare of some fraud from the Turkes yet once I went on Land with our Marriners The City lieth in length vpon the shoare of Propontis from the South to the North and it hath without the wals towards the West great number of Wind-mils the buildings are of slint or little vnpolished stones one or two stories high and the roofe is low and tiled not plaine and plastered to walke vpon as they be in Syrea and Cyprus and this roofe is so low as it hath no windowes so as the buildings of these parts are very like those of Italy The Hauen is on the East side and vpon the opposite shoare of Asia towards the East are the ruines not farre distant of Nice a City of Bithinia famous for the holy Councell held there of old Vpon Saterday the first of Ianuary we sailed sixty miles in this straight of Propontis to the Iland Marmora not without feare of Turkish Pirats the Hauen of
Camera being neere vs where the great Turkes Gallies lie By the way they shewed me a Castle towards the East vpon the shore of Asia the lesse which they say stands vpon the confines of the Troian Dominion and thereof hath the name to this day The Iland Marmora is so called as I think of themarble wherewith it aboundeth The second of Ianuary we set sayle from Marmora and being by contrary winds driuen backe as I think or little aduanced we came to the Iland Aloni some ten miles distant from Marmora and so called of the forme of a yard in which Oxen vsed to grinde Corne or beate it small After the beginning of the new yeere which the Greekes as most of Europe begin the first of Ianuarie the first Wednesday being the fourth of that month the Grecian Marriners haue a custom retained from old times to baptize the Sea as they terme it which done they thinke the Flouds and Windes to grow more calme then formerly The Iland Aloni hath a Port on all sides compassed with Ilands and that very large and safe where while we passed some stormy daies wee heard of many Barkes and Gallies cast away While I walked here vpon the shoare a wild-headed Turke tooke my hat from my head being of the fashion of Europe not vsed there and hauing turned it and long beheld it he said to vse his rude words Lend me this vessell to ease my belly therein and so girning flung it'on the dyrtie ground which I with patience tooke vp These and like wrongs of speech euen threatnings of blowes I sometimes indured in Turkey but neuer had the disaster to haue any blow giuen me by any of them which many good Christians notwithstanding haue suffered and daily suffer and my selfe if they had fallen to my share must haue suffered with patience except I would by resistance haue incurred shamefull and cruell death On Thursday the thirteenth of Ianuary at last wee set sayle with a faire winde and after twentie miles sayling we passed by the Citie Palormo seated vpon the shoare of Asia the lesse and famous for the white Wine it yeeldeth the best that euer I tasted and hauing sayled ten miles further we sailed by the Citie Heraclea seated on the shore of Greece whereof in my returne this way I shall haue cause to speake more at large Towards euening we thought we were come to one of the corners of Constantinople called the seuen Towers yet by reason of the foresaid swift channell running from the black Sea full against vs with a most faire wind we could not land in the Hauen of Constantinople till midnight hauing that day sayled one hundred and twentie miles in all from the said Ile Aloni This voyage was more tedious to vs in that howsoeuer landing we had somtimes good dyet yet while we were at Sea we had no good victuals in the ship For the Greeke Marriners feede of Onions Garlike and dried fishes one kinde whereof they call Palamides and the Italians call Palamite and in stead of a banket they will giue you a head of Garlick rosted in the ashes and pleasantly call it a pigeon With this and Bisket they content themselues and these we were forced to eate hauing omitted to prouide any dried or salt meates at Candia because wee hoped to find those in our Barke and knowing that it was in vaine to prouide any fresh meates because they would not suffer a fier to be made in so small a Barke wherewith we might dresse them But after we had eaten Bisket and dried fishes we had an vnknowne comfort or helpe to disgest them For in our priuat cabbin we had the head of a tun of Muskedine lying vnder our heads when we slept in stead of a bolster and our ship being bound on the vpper part of the sides with bundles of Reedes to beate off the force of the waues we taking one of the long Reedes found meanes to pierce the vessell and get good Wine to our ill fare and drunke so merrily that before wee came to our iournies end our former Reede became too short so as we were faine to piece it with another Hauing cast anchor as I said in the Port of Constantinople behold as soone as day began to breake many companies of Turkes rushing into our Barke who like so many starued flies fell to sucke the sweete Wines each rascall among them beating with cudgels and ropes the best of our Marriners if he durst but repine against it till within short space the Candian Merchant hauing aduertised the Venetian Ambassadour of their arriuall he sent a lanizare to protect the Barke and the goods and assoone as he came it seemed to me no lesse strange that this one man should beate all those Turkes and driue them out of the Barke like so many dogs the common Turkes daring no more resist a souldier or especially a Ianizare then Christians dare resist them And the Seriant of the Magistrate hauing taken some of our Greeke Marriners though subiect to the State of Venice to worke for their Ottoman in gathering stones and like base imployments this Ianizary caused them presently to be released and to be sent againe into their Barke such is the tyranny of the Turkes against all Christians aswel their subiects as others so as no man sayleth into these parts but vnder the Banner of England France or Venice who being in league with the great Turke haue their Ambassadours in this Citie and their Consuls in other Hauens to protect those that come vnder their Banner in this sort sending them a Ianizare to keepe them from wrongs so soone as they are aduertised of their arriuall My selfe lodged in the house of Master Edward Barton the English Ambassadour who gaue me a Ianizare to guide and protect me while I went to view the City round about the whole circuit whereof I went on foot and by boat in foure houres space the forme of the Citie being triangular and containing nine miles by Sea towards the North and East and fiue miles by land towards the West I professe my selfe to haue small skill in the art of Geography yet will I aduenture though rudely to set downe the forme and situation of this City so plainely as I doubt not but the Reader may easily vnderstand it howsoeuer in the same as in other cities formerly described I acknowledge that I vse not the rule of the scale in the distance of places nor other exquisite rules of that Art hauing no other end but to make the Reader more easily vnderstand my description The description of the City of Constantinople and the adiacent Territories and Seas The great lines or walles shew the forme of the City and the single small lines describe the Teritory adioyning A In this Tower they hang out a light of pitch and like burning matter to direct the Saylers by night comming to the City or sayling along the coast out of the
we found the Venetian ship are in the description of Constantinople noted with the letters W and X and they are now commonly called the Castles of Gallipolis but of old that noted with the letter W was called Sestos being a Citie in Thrace in which the most faire Hero was borne and dwelt and the other noted with the letter X was called Abydos being a Citie of Asia the lesse in which Leander dwelt famous for his loue to Hero and these Castles are diuided by the Hellespont some two miles broad at least so narrow as Leander is said often to haue swomme ouer it to his beloued Hero The Castle of Sestos more specially is seated in a most fertile soyle for Nairo the next adioyning towne yeeldes excellent Wines and all necessaries to sustaine life plentifully Howsoeuer the ships ought and vse to bee staied here for three daies yet a very faire winde blowing and all duties being performed the Patrons of the ships by a large gift to the Officers sometimes obtaine leaue to depart sooner They say that each passenger by Pole payeth here one zechine for tribute but perhaps this belongs onely to Merchants for my selfe my seruant and the English Gentleman in my company hauing giuen betweene vs one zechine to the substitutes of the Venetian Bailiffe so their Ambassador is called we were dismissed vpon their motion yet we moreouer gaue fortie aspers to a Ianizare and fiftie aspers to a Chiauslar for the fees of their offices It being vnwholsome to sleep aboue the hatches of the ship at this time of the yeere though in summer time I made choice to sleepe so when I sailed from Venice to Ierusalem we three namely my selfe the English Gentleman and my seruant gaue for each of vs three zechines to the Pilot to be partners with him in his cabin which by his Office hee had proper to himselfe in the Castle of the ship and to the Patron or Master of the ship for our diet we paid each of vs after the rate of fiue zechines and a halfe by the moneth as well at Sea as in Harbors and for our passage we ioyntly paid ten ducats of Venice so as I still paid two parts of three in all expences besides that wee brought with vs some hundreds of Egges and a vessell of excellent Wine of Palormo which our Ambassadour at Constantinople gaue vs. Vpon Monday the seuenth of March after the old stile vsed in Turky by all Christians and others in the afternoone we set sayle and passed the straight of Hellespont and the same night sayled by the foresaid Iland of Tenedos This Sea is called Pontus of the adiacent Prouince of Asia the lesse named Pontus which Prouince containes Colchis famous by the old Argonauticall expedition Capidocia and Armenia The eight of March early in the morning we did see tha Iland Lemnos famous for a kind of earth there digged and in Latin called Terra Sigillata vpon our right hand and the Ilands Metelene and Chios now called Zio and the Citie Smyrna vpon the continent of Asia the lesse vpon our left hand to omit Ephesus not farre distant vpon the same continent And being now entred into the AEgean Sea now called Archipelagus of fiftie Ilands standing like Arches and not farre distant one from the other which are called Cyclades or Sporades the ninth of March hauing now sailed eightie miles and being to sayle by the Iland Saint George of Skyra the windes were so contrary as wee were forced to strike sayles and lie at hull that is tossed to an fro by the waues The same day we set sayle and left the Iland Andros one of the Cyclades and the Iland Tyno subiect to the Venetians on our left hand or towards the East and the Iland Negropont lying close to the continent of Attica and right ouer against the ruines of famous Athens on our right hand or towards the West The tenth and eleuenth of March wee sayled 100 miles in the same Sea full of Ilands and sailed by the Ilands Gia and Makarone But towards night contrary windes rising high and we fearing to bee cast vpon some shoare of many adiacent Ilands againe we struck sayle and lay at hull tossing to and fro but making small or no progresse The twelfth of March early in the morning we set sayle and sayled by the Iland Milo of old called Miletum where Saint Paul landed Acts 20. 15 and a neere Iland Sdiles of old called Delos and most famous for the Oracle of Apollo and the Promontory of Morea of old called Peloponesus containing many Prouinces of Greece which promontory is called Capo Malleo The thirteenth of March hauing sayled one hundred and ninety miles we passed by the Iland Cerigo not subiect to the Turkes as most of the Ilands are but to the Venetians who in a Castle on the South side keepe a Garrison of souldiers It is one of the Cyclades seated at the entrance of the Archipelagus towards the South scarce fiue miles distant from Morea the foresaid continent of Greece and some one hundred and fiftie miles from Candia the chiefe Citie of the Iland Candia and was of old called Scotera also Porphoris of that precious kind of Marble there digged and also Citherea of which as her chiefe seate Venus is often so called And to this day there are seene the ruines of a Temple dedicated to Venus and of a Pallace belonging to Menelaus the husband of Helena From the thirteenth to the seuenteenth of March the windes were so contrary or scant as wee onely sayled one hundred and twenty miles and tooke harbour in the Iland Zante subiect to the Venetians whereof I made mention in my voyage from Venice to Ierusalem Here some English Merchants continually reside and the Hauen being commodious and most ships that trade in these Seaes vsing to put into this Harbor the goods that are diuersly transported thence are vulgarly but falsely esteemed the natiue commodities of the Iland It hath scarce sixtie miles in circuit and the Mountaines round about vpon the Sea-side inclose a pleasant and fruitfull Plaine The Hauen is like an halfe Moone increasing and the chiefe Towne called Zante lies in a little Plaine vpon the innermost part thereof in length The buildings of the houses are two stories high with a tyled but low roofe without any windowes according to the building of Italy but are poore and base for the matter so as the onely beautie of the Towne lies in the Castle built at the East end vpon a high Hill being of a large circuit and containing many houses and Churches within the walles thereof In which Castle the Gouernour called il Podestà and the other Venetian inferiour Magistrates dwell and giue Law to the people of that Iland The Turkish Pirats of Saint Mauro in Morea hauing lately set vpon and taken a huge Venetian ship did lade seuenteene of their little barques with the most pretious goods
thereof namely clothes of Gold Damasks and Grogerans to the value of a thousand thousand zechines as the report went and setting the ship on fire tooke away the marriners for slaues And the very time of my being in this Iland seuen Turkish Gallies lay vpon this coast and robbed all the Venetian ships falling into their hands so as howsoeuer they had peace then with the Turkish Ottoman yet their ships durst not stirre out of this hauen Whereupon they hauing now occasion to send out ships for Corne the Magistrate forced the Master of an English ship then harbouring there to wast these ships though much against his will when there were some 20 Venetian ships in the same Hauen whereof diuers were of 400 or 500 tuns Also at this time it hapned that a Spanish ship of Catolonia was driuen into this Harbor and the Magistrate calling our Merchants before him would haue forced them to giue caution that the English ships then lying there should not assaile the same though betweene England Spaine war had now long time bin proclaimed but they contesting against this course as iniurious to them yet could not be dismissed till they gaue their words that our ships should not assayle the same by day or night so long as it lay in this Hauen And this Spanish ship for long time not daring to goe forth at last vpon occasion of Venetian Gallies landing there was wafted by them and so escaped Vpon the robbing and burning of the foresaid Venetian ship by Turkish Pyrates the Venetian Baliffe so they call their Ambassadour lying then at Constantinople had obtained the great Turkes Mandate that these Pyrates gallies being burnt they should presently be sent in bonds to his Court and this Mandate was brought by a Chiauss or Pencioner who came in the same ship with vs whereupon the Pyrates being more inraged against the Venetians did at this time take and spoyle another Venetian ship of some foure hundred and fifty Tunnes called the Syluester and not content with the most rich booty did cast into the Sea many Marriners yeelding to mercy and could hardly be perswaded by the intercession of Turkes passengers in the same ship to spare the liues of some twenty chiefe Marriners yet aliue and to forbeare the burning of the ship The Italians of best iudgement did not expect that the great Turke would duly punish these outrages but rather were of opinion that himselfe and his chiefe Visere would draw the greatest part of the prey to their own hands and that the Turkish Gouernours inticed by like participation would endeuour to free these Pyrates and doe their best to nourish them yea that this very Chiauss now sent with a Mandate to suppresse them would be induced by bribes to returne to Constantinople with relation that the Pyrates could not be found so they did as no doubt they would for a time hide themselues and in conclusion that the Venetians after hauing spent much money in obtaining new Mandates for their apprehension should find no other remedy but to repell force by force Vpon Wednesday the thirtieth of March after the old stile in the beginning of the yeere 1597 we set sayle but by contrarietie of winds were againe driuen backe into the Hauen of Zante Vpon Friday the first of Aprill after dinner againe we set saile and the second of Aprill sayling by the Iland Cefalonia whereof I spake in our voyage from Venice to Ierusalem we cast anchor in the outward Hauen of the Iland Corfu because the Master of our ship was sicke and this his sickenesse increasing we set saile to returne backe to the chiefe City of that Iland the Hauen whereof we entered the sixth of Aprill From Zante to Cefaloniae are seuenty miles and from thence to Corfu are 120 miles This Iland Corfu inhabited by Greekes is very fertile yeelding plenty of fruites corne wines and Currands and this Hauen is fortified with two Forts cut out off a Rocke namely the old and the new Fort which is more then a mile in circuit both being very strong and held vnexpugnable so as this Iland is worthily reputed one of the chiefe Keyes of Christendome The Master of our ship hauing recouered his health wee set saile vpon Tuesday the twelfth of Aprill and returned againe to the foresaid outward Hauen of Corfu Iland where an old woman a passenger died and her kinsemen carried her body to be buried on Land Here againe we were forced to stay the winds being contrary Atlast vpon the nineteenth of Aprill towards euening with a faire wind we ioyfully set saile and the twentieth day we sailed ouer the streight Sea betweene Greece and the Prouince of Apulia in Italy Vpon Friday the two and twentieth of Aprill towards the euening hauing sayled some two hundred miles from the said streight we were carried by the shoare of the City Raguza with a faire gale of wind and had the wind beene neuer so contrary yet our Master knowing some late difference risen betweene the Raguzeans and Venetians would not willingly haue landed in that Hauen The blame of which difference some imputed to the Raguzeans in that they fauoured the Scocchi a Neighbour people vpon the shoare of Sclauonia who being subiect to the Emperour and Christians yet robbed all kinds of ships passing these Seas and had lately spoiled and burnt a Venetian Gally in the Port of Rouinge But other alleaged a more probable cause thereof namely that some Venetian Gentlemen for some venerious in solencies there committed had Iately beene slaine in a tumult Raguze of old called Epidaurus and the chiefe City of Selauonia is foure hundred miles distant from Venice built at the foot of an high mountaine vpon the Sea shoare and hath great trafficke by those Seas and huge ships which the Kings of Spatne haue often hired and ioined to their Nauy The gouernement is popular and this City to the wonder of many doth to this day maintaine the liberty though it be seated betweene the very iawes of the two powerfull States of the great Turke and Venetians to one of which all other neere Townes Ilands and Countries are subiect For the Venetians are loath to driue them being Christians to such despaire as they might be forced to yeeld themselues to the great Turke and the City is very strongly fortified towards the sea whence the Venetians can onely assaile them besides that they pay great customes of their trafficke to the State of Venice for which reason that State attempts nothing against the freedome of the City Againe the Turkes knowing that if they should besiege the City by Land the Citizens would with all their best moueables flie into Italy by Sea and receiuing also a great yeerely tribute from the trafficke of this City where the great Turke hath his owne Officer called Chiaussagha to gather the same are also content not to molest them by warre especially since they know that the Pope the King of Spaine
and the State of Venice would assist the Raguzeant against them and no way indure that the Turkish Ottoman should make himselfe Lord of that Hauen Vpon the three and twenty of Aprill towards euening we sayled by the little Iland Augusta being yet of a good large circuit and populous and subiect to the Raguzeans but the Coast is dangerous for ships arriuall by reason of the Rockes called the Augustines and by the little Iland Corsolavi Some Ilands in this Sea are subiect to the Raguzeans and some neere to the Northerne continent haue the Great Turke for their Lord but the rest are subiect to the Venetians and are very many in number but little and good part of them little or not at all inhabited The Italians our consorts told vs of an Iland not farre distant called Pelaguza and lying neere the continent of Italy vpon the Coast whereof the famous Turkish Pyrate of Algier a Hauen in Africa was lately wont to houer and lie hidden and made rich booties of the Venetian and Italian Merchants Vpon Sunday the foure and twenty of Aprill we had in sight and little distant the little Ilands Catza and Lissa and in the afternoone on our left hand towards Italy the Iland Pomo and in the euening towards Dalmatia two Ilands and vpon the continent the City Zaga being some two hundred miles distant from Venice And the night following we sailed ouer an arme of the Sea some thirty miles broade lying betweene Dalmatia and Istria called Il Cornaro which we passed without any appearance of danger though otherwise it be generally reputed so dangerous as the Venetians offended with any Marriner vse this imprecation Maledetto sia il Cornaro che t' ha lasciato passare that is Cursed be the Cornaro for letting thee passe Vpon Monday the fiue and twenty of Aprill as we sailed by the Coast of Istria one of the Marriners aged and as we thought honest and of some authority among the rest priuately admonished me that I should safely locke vp our goods in our chests left the inferior Marriners should steale our shirts or any other thing they found negligently left which they vsed to doe especially at the end of any voyage Vpon Tuesday the sixe and twenty of April we cast anchor beyond Pola in the continent of Istria a City now ruined and vpon the seuen and twenty day we entred the Hauen of Rouinge in Istria subiect to the Venetians where the ships vse to take a Pilot for their owne safety or els are tied so to doe by some old priuiledge of that City Here the Prouisors for health gaue vs liberty of free conuersation as they had formerly done at Zante seeing no man in our ship to be sicke or sickely And I did not a little wonder when I obserued each second or third person of this City to halt and be lame of one foot which made me remember the Citizens of Islebe in Germany and in the Prouince of Saxony where almost all the men haue wry neckes whereof I knew the cause namely because they vsed daily to dig in mines with their neckes leaning on one side but of this common lamenes of the Inhabitants in Rouinge I could not learne any probable cause except it were the foule disease of lust raigning in those parts which I rather thought likely because the lamenesse was common to weomen as men Now the sayling in our great ship was like to be more trouble some dangerous and slow whereupon fiue of vs ioyning together did vpon the thirtieth of Aprill after the old stile hier a boate of sixe Oares for seuen Venetian Duckets to Venice where we arriued the next day towards euening and staied in our boat vpon the wharfe of the Market place of Saint Marke till the Prouisors of health sitting in their Office neere that place came vnto vs and after some conference vnderstanding that we and our ship were free of all infection or sicknesse gaue vs free liberty of conuersation Wee staied three dayes at Venice to refresh our selues and paied each man three lyres for each meale in a Dutch Inne Then hauing receiued money of a Merchant I went to the Village Mestre and there bought of Dutchmen newly arriued in Italy two horses for my selfe and my man the one for thirtie the other for twentie ducates These horses I sold at Stode in Germany after my iourney ended at or about the same rate He that hath the Dutch tongue and either knowes the waies of Germany himselfe or hath consorts skilfull therein being to trauell from Stode or those parts into Italy shall finde more profit in buying a horse in those parts of Germany for so hee shall saue great summes vsually paid for coches and at the iournies end or rather by the way towards the ende of his iourney may in Italy sell his horses with good profit In the Village Mestre each of vs paid each meale fiftie soldi that is two lires and a halfe From hence we took the right way to Augsburg in Germany to Nurnberg Brunswick and to Stode an old Citie lying on the Northern Sea of Germany The particulars of which iourney I here omit hauing in my iourney to Ierusalem passed the very same way from Stode to Venice So as it shall suffice to adde some few things in generall Within the confines of Italy each man of vs paid for each meale fortie and sometimes fiftie Venetian soldi and for hay and stable for his horse commonly at noone foure soldi at night twelue soldi and for ten measures of oates giuen each day to each horse fiftie soldi After we entred Germany each man paid each meale commonly twentie creitzers at Inspruch twentie foure and somtimes twentie six creitzers for hay six creitzers a day or there-abouts and for ten measures of oates seruing one horse for a day wee paid fiftie creitzers In the middle Prouinces of Germany each of vs paid for each meale commonly sixteene creitzers that is foure batzen and in the parts vpon the Northerne sea some foure Lubeck shillings And from the Citie Armstat seated betweene Augsburg and Nurnberg to the said Northern sea side we had a new measure of oates called Hembd one of which measures was sold for some tenne Lubeck shillings and serued three horses for our baite at noone and another was almost sufficient for them at night From Stode seated vpon the German Sea we passed in a boat to the outmost Hauen where wee went abroad an English ship vpon the fourth of Iuly after the old stile being Tuesday The sixt of Iuly early in the morning we set sayle and the eight of Iuly we came vpon the most wished land of England and cast anchor neere Orford a Castle in Suffolke Vpon Saturday the ninth of Iuly after the old stile we landed at Grauesend and without delay with the night-tide passed in a boat to London where we ariued on Sunday at foure of the clock in the morning the tenth of
among Christians and if he doe yet the sheetes are made of cotten intollerable for heate For in Turkey generally they lie vpon Tapestry Carpets and sometimes in Cities vpon a mattresse with a quilt to couer them and by the high way they lye vpon straw hey or grasse And in all places neere Palestine they either by night lie vpon the house tops on a plastered floare or in yards vpon the earth and in open Ayre hauing the spangled Heauens for their Canopy And not onely passengers but all Turkes daily weare linnen breeches so as in these Prouinces not subiect to cold a man may better endure this poore kind of lodging But the Turkish passengers in stead of Innes haue certsine Hospitals built of stone with Cloysters after the manner of Monasteries where by charitable legacy of Almes all passengers may haue meate for certaine meales or dayes especially the Pilgrims towards Mecha for whose sake they were especially founded And these houses are vulgarly called Kawne or as others pronounce Cain and the couered Cloysters of them built after their manner but one roofe high are common as well to Turkes as any other passengers to lodge in openly and like good fellowes altogether vpon such mattresses as they carry or vpon the bare ground if straw be not to be had For Christian passengers carry such mattresses and necessary victuals which failing they supply them in Cities and euery day in Villages may buy fresh meates but they must dresse their owne meate Neither is the Art of Cookery greater in Turkey then with vs in Wales for toasting of Cheese in Wales and seething of Rice in Turkey will enable a man freely to professe the Art of Cookery No stranger vseth to trauell without a Ianizary or some other to guide him who knowes the places where most commodious lodging is to be had but passengers by the way vse not to goe into Cities but onely to buy fresh meates which done they returne to the Tents of their Carrauan which vse to be pitched in some field adioyning In hot climes neere the Sunne as I haue said in the first Part writing my iourney through Turkey the Turkes there dwelling vse to beginne their iourneys towards the euening and to end them two or three houres after the Sunne rising resting in their Tents all the heat of the day Christian passengers shall doe well to goe to the Italians Friers at Ierusalem and to Merchants their Countreymen or at least to Christians in Citties of traffick and to the Ambassadors or Merchants of their owne Country at Constantinople who being themselues strangers and not ignorant of the euils incident to strangers will no doubt in curtesie direct them to get conuenient lodgings and other necessaries CHAP. II. Of France touching the particular subiects of the first Chapter THE Longitude of France extends thirteene degrees from the Meridian of sixteene degrees to that of twenty nine degrees and the Latitude extends eight degrees from the Paralell of forty two degrees to that of fifty degrees France of old was deuided into Cisalpina and Transalpina In the description of Italy I haue formerly spoken of Cisalpina which was also called Togata of Gownes the Inhabitants wore and Tonsa because they had short haire 1 Transalpina was subdeuided into Comata and Narbonersis Comata so called of their long haire was againe subdeuided into Belgica of which I haue spoken formerly in the description of Netherland into Aquitanica and Celtica or Lugdunensis Aquitanica the second Part of Comata was of old called Aremorica lying vpon the Mountaines Pyrenei and they differ in Language from the French being more like to tie Spaniards next to the Pyreni dwelt the Ansi or Ansitani called vulgarly Guascons comming from Spaine Their chief City is Tolouse where is a famous Vniuersity the Parliament of that Prouince Another City called Bordeaux hath also an Vniuersity but is more famous by the generall concourse of Merchants trading for French Wines Beyond the Riuer Garumna running through the midst of Aquitania dwell the Santones an ancient people whose Countrey is called Santoigne Next lie the Pictones or Pictaui vpon the Riuer Loyer whose Countrey is called Posctou abounding with Fish Fowle and all Game for Hunting and Hawking It hath three chiefe Cities all seates of Bishops Poictiers Lusson and Maillezais The necke of Land adioyning is called Aulone and the Ilands Noir de Chauet De Dieu and Nosire Dame De Bouin c. yeeld great quantity of Salt to be transported The Countrey of the Bituriger is called Berry and the chiefe City Burges of old called Auaricum being an Vniuersity and the Citizens at sixe Faires in the yeere sell great quantity of woollen cloath for the Countrey hath rich pastures feeding many flockes of sheepe of whose wooll this cloath is made besides that it aboundeth also with Wine Corne and all kinds of cattell The City is within Land and is called in Lattin Biturigum of two Towers Next the same lies the Dukedome Burbonois and other small territories Celtica or Lugdunensis another part of Comata containes the part of Transalpina that lies betweene the Riuers Loyer and Seyne beyond which last Riuer France of old extended and included good part of Netherland First towards the West lies the Dukedome Bretaigne which hath three Languages in it selfe all differing from the French The first is of the people called Bretons Bretonnant comming from the English or Cornish Brittons the first Inhabitants and the chiefe Cities are Saint Paul and Treguiers The second people are called Bretons Galot being of Language neere the French and the chiefe Cities are Rhenes where is the Parliament of the whole Dukedome and Dol and Saint Malo The third is mixt of the two former and the City thereof called Nantes is the Dukes seate and chiefe City of the Dukedome From the Sea Coast thereof great quantity of salt made by the heate of the Sunne is transported and there by mynes of Iron and Lead Towards the East lies Normandy so called of Men of the North namely the Cimbri there inhabiting and the chiefe City is Roane Within Land lies Turroyne vpon the Loyer and the chiefe City is Orleance Next lies the little Countrey of France like an Iland betweene two Riuers so called of the Franckes a people of Germany conquering and giuing that name to the whole Kingdome The chiefe City and seate of the Kings is Paris Picardy lies towards the North and the chiefe City is Amiens Vpon France within Land towards the East lies the Prouince Champaigne Next to it lies the Dukedome of Lorrayne the Dukes whereof beare their Armes an Arme armed breaking out of Cloudes and holding a naked Sword to signifie that the Dukes haue supreme power from God alone And the chiefe Cities of the Dukedome are Nancy the seate of the Dukes and Toul and Neufchastell The next Countrey of old esteemed part of Lorrayne was inhabited by the Lingones and by the Mediomatrices and
is the Territory called Lennox whereof the Stewards haue long time been Earles of which Family the late Kings of Scotland are discended and namely Iames the sixth who raised this Earledom to a Dukedome giuing that title to the Lord d'Aubigny and these Daubignij seruing in the French and Neapolitane warres were honoured by the Kings of France with addition of Buckles Or in a field Gueules to their ancient coate of Armes with this inscription Distantia Iungo that is Distant things I ioyne Sterling or Striuelin lyes not farre off a little Citie of the Kings hauing a most strong Castle vpon the brow of a steepe rocke 8 Next these towards the North lay the Caledonij somewhat more barbarous then the rest as commonly they are more rude towards the North where not onely the aire is cold but the Country wast and mountanous And here was the Caledonian Wood so knowne to the Roman Writers as it was by them taken for all Britany and the Woods thereof At this day this Region is called by the Scots Allibawne and by the Latines Albania and containes the Bishoprick Dunkeledon and the Territory Argile so called as neere the Irish of which the Cambellan Family hath the title of Earles of Argile who are the generall Iustices of Scotland by right of inheritance and Great Masters of the Kings Houshold 9 Towards the West lay the Epidij inhabiting a wast and Fenny Country now called Cantire that is a corner of land and next lies Assinshire 10 Next lay the Creones which Region is now called Strathuaern 11 Next lay the Cornouacae at the Promontory Hey 12 On the East-side of the Caledonians lay the Vernicones in the fruitfull little Region called Fife where is the Towne of Saint Andrew Metropolitan of all Scotland 13 The little Region Athol is fertile of which the Stuards of the Family of Lorne haue the title of Earles Here is Strathbolgy the seate of the Earles of Huntly of the Family of the Seatons who tooke the name of Gordan by the authority of a Parliament 14 Next lyes Goury hauing fruitfull fields of Wheate whereof Iohn Lord Rethuen was of late made Earle but Arrell in this Region hath long giuen the title of Earle to the Family of Hayes 15 vnder Fife lyes Angush where is Scone famous for the Kings consecration Montrose hath his Earles of the Family of the Grahames but the Douglasses Earles of Angush of an honorable Eamily were made Gouernours by Robert the third of this Region and these Earles are esteemed the chiefe and principall Earles of all Scotland and it is said that they haue right to carry the Kings Crowne at the solemne assemblies of the Kingdome 16. 17 Next lye the two Regions of Marnia and Marria vpon the sea where is Dunetyre the chiefe seate of the Family of the Keythes who by warlike vertue haue deserued to be the Marshalls of the Kingdome and Aberdene that is the mouth of the Dene is a famous Vniuersity And Queene Mary created Iohn Ereskin Earle of Marre who lately was the Regent of Scotland and is by inheritance Sheriffe of the County of Sterling 18 Next lay the Taizeli where now Buquhan is seated 19 Then towards Murrey Frith the V ocomagi of old inhabited Rosse murray and Nesseland 20 More innerly is the Gulfe Vararis right ouer against the Towne Inuernesse 21 The Cantae possessed the corner of land shooting towards the Sea where is the most safe Hauen Cromer 22. 23 Yet more inwardly where Bean Rosse and Southerland are seated the Lugi and Mertae of old inhabited Thus farre Edward the first King of England subdued all with his victorious Army hauing beaten the Scots on all sides In Southerland are Mountaines of white Marble a very miracle in this cold clyme but of no vse the excesse and magnificence in building hauing not yet reached into these remote parts 24 Further neare Catnesse the Catni of old inhabited the Earles of which Country are of the ancient and Noble Families of the Sint-cleres 25 Vrdehead is thought the remotest Promontory of all Britany where the Cornabij of old inhabited 26 I will in one word mention the Ilands In the Gulfe Glotta or Dunbritten Frith lyes the Iland Glotta called Arran by the Scots giuing the title to an Earle Next that lyes Rothesia now called Buthe whence are the Stewards Kings of Scots as they say Then Hellan the Iland of the Sayntes Without the foresaid Gulfe many Ilands lye thicke together vulgarly called the Westerne Ilands and numbred forty foure being of old called by some Hebrides by others Inchades and Leucades and by many as Ptolomy Ebudae Ina one of these Ilands haue a Monastery famous for the buriall of the Kings of Scotland and for the habitation of many holy men among which was Columbus the Apostle of the Picts of whose Cell the Iland was also named Columbkill The Scots bought all these Ilands of the Norwegians as a great strength to the Kingdome though yeelding very little profit the old inhabitants whether Scots or Irish being of desperare daring and impatient of being subiect to any lawes Neare these lye the Orcades vulgarly Orkney about thirty in number yeelding competent quantity of Barley but no Wheate or trees The chiese whereof is Pomonia well knowne by the Episcopall seate and yeelding both Tynne and Leade These Orcades Ilands were subiect to the Danes and the inhabitants speake the Gothes language but Christiern King of the Danes sold his right to the King of Scotland Fiue dayes and nights sayle from the Orcades is the Iland Thule so often mentioned by Poets to expresse the furthest corner of the World whereupon Virgill saith Tibi seruiet vltima Thule that is The furthest Thule shall thee serue Many haue thought that Iseland was this Thule condemned to cold ayre and perpetuall Winter but Camden thinkes rather that Schotland is Thule which the Marriners now call Thilensall being subiect to the King of Scotland In the German Sea towards the coast of Britany are few Ilands saue onely in Edenburg Frith where these are found May Basse Keth and Inche-colme that is the Iland of Columbus Scotland reaching so farre into the North must needs be subiect to excessiue cold yet the same is in some sort mitigated by the thicknesse of the cloudy aire and sea vapours And as in the Northerne parts of England they haue small pleasantnes goodnesse or abundance of Fruites and Flowers so in Scotland they haue much lesse or none at all And I remember that comming to Barwick in the moneth of May wee had great stormes and felt great cold when for two moneths before the pleasant Spring had smiled on vs at London On the West side of Scotland are many Woodes Mountaines and Lakes On the East side towards the Sea I passed Fife a pleasant little Territory of open fields without inclosures fruitfull in Corne as bee all the partes neare Barwick saue that they yeeld little wheate and much
ciuill warres I omit the Kings and Queenes Counties namely Ophaly and Leax inhabited by the Oconnors and Omores as likewise the Counties of Longford Fernes and Wicklo as lesse affoording memorable things 3 The third part of Ireland is Midia or Media called by the English Methe in our Fathers memory deuided into Eastmeath and Westmeath In Eastmeath is Drogheda vulgarly called Tredagh a faire and well inhabited Towne Trym is a little Towne vpon the confines of Vlster hauing a stately Castle but now much ruinated and it is more notable for being the ancient as it were Barrony of the Lacies Westmeath hath the Towne Deluin giuing the title of Baron to the English Family of the Nugents and Westmeath is also inhabited by many great Irish Septs as the Omaddens the Magoghigans Omalaghlens and MacCoghlans which seeme barbarous names Shamon is a great Riuer in a long course making many and great lakes as the large Lake or Lough Regith and yeeldes plentifull fishing as doe the frequent Riuers and all the Seas of Ireland Vpon this Riuer lies the Towne Athlon hauing a very faire Bridge of stone the worke of Sir Henry Sidney Lord Deputy and a strong faire Castle 4 Connaght is the fourth part of Ireland a fruitfull Prouince but hauing many Boggs and thicke Woods and it is diuided into sixe Countyes of Clare of Letrim of Galloway of Rosecomen of Maio and of Sugo The County of Clare or Thowmond hath his Enrles of Thowmond of the Family of the Obrenes the old Kings of Connaght and Toam is the seate of an Archbishop onely part but the greatest of this County was called Clare of Phomas Clare Earle of Glocester The adioyning Territory Clan Richard the land of Richards sonnes hath his Earles called Clanricard of the land but being of the English Family de Burgo vulgarly Burck and both these Earles were first created by Henry the eight In the same Territory is the Barony Atterith belonging to the Barons of the English Family Bermingham of old very warlike but their posteritie haue degenerated to the Irish barbarisme The city Galway giuing name to the County lying vpon the Sea is frequently inhabited with ciuill people and fairely built The Northern part of Connaght is inhabited by these Irish Septs O Conor O Rorke and Mac Diarmod Vpon the Westerne coast lyes the Iland Arran famous for the fabulous long life of the inhabitants 5 Vlster the fifth part of Ireland is a large Prouince woody fenny in some parts fertile in other parts barren but in al parts greene and pleasant to behold and exceedingly stoared with Cattell The next part to the Pale and to England is diuided into three Countyes Lowth Down and Antrimme the rest containes seuen Counties Monaghan Tyrone Armach Colrane Donergall Fermanagh and Cauon Lowth is inhabited by English-Irish Down and Antrimme being contained vnder the same name and the Barrons thereof be of the Berminghams family and remaine louing to the English Monaghan was inhabited by the English family Fitzursi and these are become degenerate and barbarous and in the sense of that name are in the Irish tongue called Mac Mahon that is the sonnes of Beares I forbeare to speake of Tyrone and the Earle thereof infamous for his Rebellion which I haue at large handled in the second part of this work Armach is the seate of an Archbishop and the Metropolitan City of the whole Iland but in time of the Rebellion was altogether ruinated The other Countyes haue not many memorable things therefore it shall suffice to speake of them briefely The neck of land called Lecale is a pleasant little territory fertile and abounding with fish and all things for food and therein is Downe at this time a ruined Towne but the seate of a Bishop and famous for the buriall of S Patrick S. Bridget and S. Columb The Towne of Carickfergus is well knowne by the safe Hauen The Riuer Bann running through the Lake Euagh into the Sea is famous for the fishing of Salmons the water being most cleare wherein the Salmons much delight The great Families or Septs of Vlster are thus named O Neale O Donnel wherof the chiefe was lately created Earle of Tirconnel O Buil Mac Guyre O Cane O Dogharty Mac Mahown Mac Gennis Mac Sorleigh c. The Lake Ern compassed with thicke Woods hath such plenty of fish as the fishermen feare the breaking of their nets rather then want of fish Towards the North in the middest of vast woods and as I thinke in the County Donergall is a lake and therein an Iland in which is a Caue famous for the apparition of spirits which the inhabitants call Ellanui frugadory that is The Iland of Purgatory and they call it Saint Patricks Purgatory fabling that hee obtained of God by prayer that the Irish seeing the paines of the damned might more carefully auoide sinne The land of Ireland is vneuen mountanous soft watry woody and open to windes and flouds of raine and so fenny as it hath Bogges vpon the very tops of Mountaines not bearing man or beast but dangerous to passe and such Bogs are frequent ouer all Ireland Our Matriners obserue the sayling into Ireland to be more dangerous not onely because many tides meeting makes the sea apt to swell vpon any storme but especially because they euer find the coast of Ireland couered with mists whereas the coast of England is commonly cleare and to be seene farre off The ayre of Ireland is vnapt to ripen seedes yet as Mela witnesseth the earth is luxurions in yeelding faire and sweete hearbs Ireland is little troubled with thunders lightnings or earthquakes yet I know not vpon what presage in the yeere 1601 and in the moneth of Nouember almost ended at the siege of Kinsale and few daies before the famous Battell in which the Rebels were happily ouerthrowne we did nightly heare and see great thundrings lightnings not without some astonishment what they should presage The fields are not onely most apt to feede Cattell but yeeld also great increase of Corne I wil freely say that I obserued the winters cold to be far more mild thē it is in England so as the Irish pastures are more greene and so likewise the gardens al winter time but that in Summer by reason of the cloudy ayre and watry soyle the heate of the Sunne hath not such power to ripen corne and fruits so as their haruest is much later then in England Also I obserued that the best sorts of flowers and fruits are much rarer in Ireland then in England which notwithstanding is more to bee attributed to the inhabitants then to the ayre For Ireland being oft troubled with Rebellions and the Rebels not only being idle themselues but in naturall malice destroying the labours of other men and cutting vp the very trees of fruits for the same cause or else to burne them For these reasons the inhabitants take lesse pleasure to till their grounds or plant trees content to
my studies at Bazell Therefore not to bee wanting to my selfe I hyred a horse and made this cozenage knowne to the Arch-Dukes officer desiring him to exclude my debtor from the priuiledge of the Monastery But this Dutch Gentleman finding mee to speake Latine readily tooke mee for some Schoole-master and despised both mee and my cause so as I returned to the Citie weary and sad hauing obtained no fauor But a better starre shined there on mee for the Consuls that day had determined in Court that my debtors horses should bee sought out and deliuered to mee and the Lawyers and Clearkes were so courteous to me as neither they nor any other would take the least reward of mee though I pressed them to receiue it Then my debtors brother being loth the horses should be carried away paid me my mony and I gladly tooke my iourney thence towads Bazel This integrity of the Dutch Magistrates which especially in the Cities of the reformed Religion hauing found by many testimonies I cannot sufficiently commend and curtesie of the Dutch towards strangers I haue thought good in this place thankefully to acknowledge Vpon the Lake Acrontiis vulgarly Boden-sea that is vpper sea I passed by boate foure miles to Costnetz and paied for my passage three Batzen Betweene this vpper sea and the lower sea vulgarly Vnden-sea this Citie Costnetz lyeth on the banke lengthwise and is subiect to Ferdinand of Inspruch Arch-Duke of Austria whose base sonne hath also the Bishopricke of that City which is famous by a Councell held there whither Iohn Hus was called with the Emperours safe conduct in the yeere 1414 yet was there condemned of Heresie and burned On the West side of the Citie within the walles in the Monastery called Barfussen Cloyster is the Tower wherein he was imprisoned and without the walles on the left hand as you goeout is a faire meadow and therein a stone vpon the high-way to which he was bound being burnt the same yeere 1414 in the Month of Iuly Where also his fellow Ierom of Prage was burnt in September the yeere following both their ashes being cast into the Lake lest the Bohemians should carry them away The Senate-house in which this Councell was held is of no beauty When the Emperour Charles the fifth besieged this Citie it was yeelded to the hands of Ferdinand King of Bohemia and brother to Charles who made the Citizens peace for them Heere each man paid eight Batzen a meale and for wine betweene meales eight creitzers the measure Hence I went by boat two miles to Styga and paied for my passage two Batzen We tooke boat at the end of the Lake close by the City where the Rheine comming againe out of the Lake and taking his name therein lost doth runne in all narrow bed and when wee had gone by water some houre and a halfe wee entred the lower Lake called Vnden-sea Neere Costnetz is an Iland called little Meinow and in this lower lake is another Iland called Reichnow of the riches the Monastery therof hauing of old so much lands as the Monkes being sent to Rome vsed to lodge euery night in their owne possessions This Iland is said to beare nothing that hath poyson so as any such beast dieth presently in it and in the Monastery are some reliques of Saint Marke for which as they say the Venetians haue offered much money VVriters report that of old a Monke thereof climing vp a ladder to looke into a huge vessell of wine and being ouercome with the vapour fell into the same with a great bunch of keyes in his hand and that shortly after this wine was so famous as Princes and Nobles and many sickly persons vsually sent for the same the cause of the goodnes being not knowne to proceed of the putrified flesh till the vessell being empty the keyes and the Friers bones were found therein the Monkes till then thinking that their fellow had secretly gone to some other Monastery of that Order yet the Dutch in my company reported that this happened in a Monastery not farre off called Salmanschwell By the way was a stately Pallace belonging to the Fugares of Augsburg On the East-side out of the walles of Styga lye woody fields on the West-side the Iland Horue and pleasant Hils full of vines and corne In this City the Bishop of Costnetz hath his Pallace who is Lord of the two Ilands Meinow and Reichnow and hath very large possessions in these parts mingled with the territories of other Lords And this City is vpon the confines of Germany and Sweitzerland Hence I passed by boat two miles to Schaffhausen and paied for my passage two Batzen The swistnes of the Rheine made the miles seeme short and this riuer againe loseth his name in the said lower Lake and when it comes or rather violently breakes out of it then resumes it againe This City is one of the confederate Cantons of Sweitzerland Not farre from this City on the South side in the riuer Rheine is a great fall of the waters ouer a rocke some fifty cubits downeward passing with huge noyse and ending all in fome And for this cause the Barkes are forced to vnlade here and to carry their goods by carts to the City and from the City to imbarke them againe which yeeldeth great profit to the City by taxations imposed on the goods which must necessarily be landed there On both sides the riuer as we came to this City are pleasant hils planted with vines faire pastures with sweet groues The City is round in forme and is washed with the Rheine on the South side and vpon the banke of the riuer within the Towne is a pleasant greene where the Citizens meete to exercise the shooting of the Harquebuze and crosse-Bow where also is a Lynden or Teyle tree giuing so large a shade as vpon the top it hath a kinde of chamber boarded on the floore with windowes on the sides and a cocke which being turned water fals into a vessel through diuers pipes by which it is conueyed thither for washing of glasses and other vses and heere the Citizens vse to drinke and feast together there being sixe tables for that purpose On the same South side is a Monastery with walles and gates like a little City It hath the name of 〈◊〉 that is a sheepe or Schiff that is a ship and Hausse that is a house as of a fold for 〈◊〉 or roade for shippes Here I paid for each meale six batzen For the better vnderstanding of my iourney from Schafhusen to Zurech I will prefix a letter which I wrote to that purpose from Bazel To the Right Worshipfull Master Doctor Iohn Vlmer IN those few houres I staid at Schafhusen you haue made me your Seruant for euer I remember the houres of our conuersation which for the sweetnes thereof seemed minutes to me I remember the good offices you did towards me a stranger with gentlenes if not proper to your selfe yet proper
Titus Liuius a famous Historian And Lucius Aruntius Stella and Caius Valerius Flaccus all Poets celebrated by Martiall and Augelus Beoleus a Stage-player of wonderfull elocution dying in the yeere 1542 and Thraseas Peto a famous Souldier hated by Nero and Andreas Mantinia the best Painter of his age being knighted and dying about the yeere 1517 and Augustinus Zoto a Painter with other famous men The Second Booke CHAP. I. Of my iourney from Paduoa to Venice to Ferraria to Bologna to Rauenna and by the shore of the Adriaticke Sea to Ancona then crossing the breadth of Italy to Rome seated not farre from the Tirrhene Sea WHosoeuer comes into Italy and from whence soeuer but more especially if he come from suspected places as Constantinople neuer free from the plague hee must bring to the Confines a certificate of his health and in time of any plague hee must bring the like to any City within land where he is to passe which certificates brought from place to place and necessary to bee carried they curiously obserue and read This paper is vulgarly called Bolletino della sanita and if any man want it hee is shut vp in the Lazareto or Pest-house forty dayes till it appeare he is healthfull and this they call vulgarly far ' la quarantans Neither will the Officers of health in any case dispence with him but there hee shall haue conueuientlodging and diet at his pleasure In the spring of the yeere 1594 the Italians beginning the yeere the first of Ianuary I began my iourney to see Italy and taking boat at the East gate of Paduoa the same was drawne by horses along the Riuer Brenta hauing shot two or three small bridges and passed twenty miles we came to the Village Lizzafusina where there is a damme to stop the waters of Brenta lest in processe of time the passage being open the Marshes on that side of Venice should be filled with sand or earth and so a passage made on firme ground to the City which they are carefull to preuent and not without iust cause hauing found safety in their Iles when Italy was often ouerflowed by barbarous people Besides they say that this damme was made lest this fresh water should bee mingled with their salt waters since all the Gentlemen of Venice fetch their fresh water by boats from thence the poorer sort being content with Well water Heere whiles our boat was drawne by an Instrument out of the Riuer Brenta into the Marshes of Venice wee the passengers refreshed our selues with meat and wine and according to the custome agreed vpon the price of our meat before wee did eat it Then we entred our boat againe and passed fiue miles to Venice vpon the marshes thereof and each man paied for his passage a lire or twenty sols and for a horse more then ordinary that we might be drawne more swiftly from Paduoa to Lizzafusina each man paied foure sols but the ordinary passage is only sixteene sols We might haue had coaches but since a boat passeth daily too and fro betweene these Cities most men vse this passage as most conuenient For the boat is couered with arched hatches and there is very pleasant company so a man beware to giue no offence for otherwise the Lumbards carry shirts of Male and being armed as if they were in a Camp are apt to reuenge vpon shamefull aduantages But commonly there is pleasant discourse and the prouerb saith that the boat shall bee drowned when it carries neither Monke nor Student nor Curtesan they loue them too well to call them whores the passengers being for the most part of these kindes I remember a yong maide in the boat crossed her selfe whensoeuer an old woman looked vpon her fearing she should be a witch whereat the passengers often smiled seeing the girle not onely crosse her selfe for feare but thrust her crucifix towards the old womans eyes I said formerly that two Riuers Medoaci runne through Paduoa and that the greater by the name of Brenta running to the village Lizzafusina is stopped with a damme lest it should mingle it selfe with the salt marshes of Venice and that also the lesser Riuer by the name of Bachilio passeth through Paduoa This lesser streame runneth thence into the ditch Clodia and going out of it makes a hauen called de Chiozza which lieth in the way from Venice to Farraria and there it diuideth it selfe into two streames and entring the salt marshes makes the hauen of Venice called Malamocco Besides other Riuers falling from the Alpes through Frioli do increase these marshes which are salt by the tides of the sea though the same doth very little ebbe or flow in this Mediterranean or Inland sea And this hauen Malamocco is very large and deep and is defended with a banke from the waues of the Adriatique sea The Description of Uenice Vpon the West side of venice beyond the marshes lies the Territory of Paduoa On the North side beyond the marshes lies the Prouince Frioli On the South side beyond the marshes lies partly the firme land of Italy and partly the Adriatique sea On the East side beyond the marshes lies the Adriatique sea and the City consisteth all of Iles compassed round about with the saide marshes A The great channell B The market place of Saint Marke seated in the first Sextary of Saint Marke C The Cathedrall Church of Saint Peter the seate of the Patriarkes seated in the second Sextary called Caestelli Oliuolo D The third Sextary on this side the channell called di Canarigio E The Church of Saint Iames lies neere the bridge Rialto and is seated in the fourth Sextary of Saint Paul being the first of them beyond the channell The rest of the City is diuided into two other Sextaries beyond the channell namely the fifth di S ta Croce and the sixth de Dorso duro F The Church of Saint George the greater G And the Church of Santa Maria delle gratie both lie in the Sextary di Santa Croce H The Iland Giudecca belongs to the sextary di Dorso duro K The banke of the sea vulgarly Il Lido L The Iland Murana M The new Lazaretto N Mazorbo O Buran P San Franscesco del deserto Little Ilands Q Torcello R Duo Caestelli S La Certosa T S ta Hellena V Lazaretto Fecchio W Chioza X Malamocco the hauen within the sea banke Y Pcuegia an Iland Z San ' Georgiod ' Alega in the way as we come from Paduoa to Venice a little Iland 〈…〉 La Concordia a little Iland The Henetians of Paphlagonia their King Palemon being dead at the siege of Troy ioyned themselues to Antener and possessing these parts after they had driuen out the Euganeans called the countrey Venice and through their great vertue were made Citizens of Rome and their chiefe men Senators thereof But when Attila King of the Huns inuaded Italy and the Empire of the West being weakned did destroy the same the said Henetians came out of
Histria now called Frioli and from the Territory of Paduoa and other Italians came from adioyning parts into certaine Ilands compassed with marshes that they might be safe from those Barbarians and about the yeere of our Lord 421 began to build a City which prouing a safe retreate from the tyranny then continually oppressing Italy in processe of time by ciuill Arts grew incredibly These Ilands were in number sixty neere adioyning and twelue more distant which being all ioyned in one haue made this stately City and the chiefe of them were called in the vulgar tongue Rialto Grado Heraclca Caestello Oliuolo The Iland Grado was of old the seat of the Patriarkes after that the Patriarchate of Aquilegia in Histria was by the Popes authority translated thither but now the seat of the Patriarkes is remoued to Caestello Oliuolo At first Consuls gouerned the City then Tribunes chosen out of each I le one till the yeere 697 when the Citizens abiding in Heraclea chose them a Duke who dwelt in the same I le After forty yeeres they chose a Tribune of souldiers in stead of a Duke with like authority as hee had and at last in the yeere 742 meeting in the Iland Malamocco they chose a Duke againe and remoued his seat from Heraclea to that Iland Then Pipin raigning in Italy about the yeere 800 the Venetians demolished Heraclea which was built againe but neuer recouered the old dignity being more notable in the seat of the Bishop then in the number of Citizens For most of the Gentlemen remoued their dwellings into the Iland Rialto otherwise called Riuo alto either of the depth of the marshes or because it was higher then the other Ilands and therevpon called Ripa alta Whereupon that Iland getting more dignity then the rest the Citizens in processe of time ioyned the sixty Ilands lying neere one to the other with some foure hundred bridges of which Ilands as is aboue said and of the twelue more distant this stately City consisteth Then by common counsell the seat of the Dukes was established in this Iland who built the stately Pallace which at this day we see And now a new Dukedome arising out of these salt marshes of the sea from that time daily grew in dignity But the City was first called Kialto and after of the countrey from whence the Citizens came was called Venetia or in the plurall number Venetiae because many Dukedomes and Prouinces or many Nations were ioyned in one and at this day is vulgarly called Venegia That the City was first called Rialto appeares by old records of Notaries written in these wordes After the vse of Venice In the name of eternall God amen subscribed in such a yeere of Riuoalto and in these wordes after the vse of the Empire In the name of Christ amen subscribed dated at Venice This stately City built in the bottome of the gulfe of the Adriatique sea in the midst of marshes vpon many Ilands is defended on the East side against the sea by a banke of earth which hath fiue or some say seuen mouths or passages into the sea and is vulgarly called Il Lido and being so placed by nature not made by Art bendeth like a bowe and reacheth thirty fiue miles and by the aforesaid passages the ships and the tides of the sea goe in and out and the deepe marshes whereof I haue spoken are made of these salt waters and of diuers fresh waters falling from the Alpes and vulgarly called il Tagliamonts La liuenza la praac la Brenta Il Po l' Adice and il Bacchiglione On the West side the City is compassed with marshes and after fiue miles with the Territory of Paduoa On the North side with marshes and beyond them partly with the Prouince Frioli partly with the aforesaid sea banke And vpon the South side with many Ilands wherein are many Churches and Monasteries like so many Forts and beyond them with the firme land of Italy The City is eight miles in circuit and hath seuenty parishes wherein each Church hath a little market place for the most part foure square and a publike Well For the common sort vse well water and raine water kept in cesternes but the Gentlemen fetch their water by boat from the land It hath thirty one cloysters of Monkes and twenty eight of Nunnes besides chappels and almes-houses Channels of water passe through this City consisting of many Ilands ioyned with Bridges as the bloud passeth through the veines of mans body so that a man may passe to what place he will both by land and water The great channell is in length about one thousand three hundred paces and in breadth forty paces and hath onely one bridge called Rialto and the passage is very pleasant by this channell being adorned on both sides with stately Pallaces And that men may passe speedily besides this bridge there be thirteene places called Traghetti where boats attend called Gondole which being of incredible number giue ready passage to all men The rest of the channels running through lesse streets are more narrow and in them many bridges are to be passed vnder The aforesaid boats are very neat and couered all saue the ends with black cloth so as the passengers may goe vnseene and vnknowne and not bee annoyed at all with the sunne winde or raine And these boats are ready at call any minute of the day or night And if a stranger know not the way hee shall not need to aske it for if hee will follow the presse of people hee shall be sure to bee brought to the market place of Saint Marke or that of Rialto the streets being very narrow which they paue with bricke and besides if hee onely know his Hosts name taking a boat he shall be safely brought thither at any time of the night Almost all the houses haue two gates one towards the street the other towards the water or at least the bankes of the channels are so neere as the passage by water is as easie as by land The publike boats with the priuate of Gentlemen and Citizens are some eight hundred or as others say a thousand Though the floud or ebbe of the salt water bee small yet with that motion it carrieth away the filth of the City besides that by the multitude of fiers and the situation open to all windes the ayre is made very wholsome whereof the Venetians bragge that it agrees with all strangers complexions by a secret vertue whether they be brought vp in a good or ill ayre and preserueth them in their former health And though I dare not say that the Venetians liue long yet except they sooner grow old and rather seeme then truly be aged I neuer in any place obserued more old men or so many Senators venerable for their grey haires and aged grauity To conclude the situation of Venice is such as the Citizens abound with all commodities of sea and land and are not onely most safe from their enemies on
Contarini that of the Iustiniani and that of the Grimani haue a little passed it And that my selfe being at Venice found there eighty Gentlemen of this name Let the Reader pardon this obseruation which I make for the Confonancy of that name with my owne onely differing in the placing of a vowell for more gentle pronuntiation which the Italian speech affecteth yet these Gentlemen being of one family write their names somewhat diuersity some writing in their owne tongue Morosini others Moresini and in the Latin tongue Morocenus and Maurocenus Of the hiring of chambers and the manner of diet in Venice I haue spoken iointly with that of Paduoa in the discription of that City onely I will adde that this City aboundeth with good fish which are twice each day to be sold in two markets of Saint Marke Rialto that it spendeth weekly fiue hundred Oxen two hundred fifty Calues besides great numbers of young Goates Hens and many kinds of birds besides that it aboundeth with sea birds whereof the Venetian writers make two hundred kinds and likewise aboundeth with sauoury fruits and many salted and dried dainties and with all manner of victuals in such sort as they impart them to other Cities I will also adde that here is great concourse of all nations as well for the pleasure the City yeeldeth as for the free conuersation and especially for the commodity of trafficke That in no place is to be found in one market place such variety of apparell languages and manners That in the publike Innes a chamber may be hired for foure sols a day but for the cheapenes and good dressing of meat most men vse to hire priuate chambers and dresse their owne meat That in the Dutch Inne each man paies two lires a meale That no stranger may lie in the City more then a night without leaue of the Magistrates appointed for that purpose but the next day telling them some pretended causes of your comming to the Towne they will easily grant you leaue to stay longer and after that you shall be no more troubled how long soeuer you stay onely your Host after certaine daies giueth them account of you To conclude this most noble City as well for the situation freeing them from enemies as for the freedome of the Common-wealth preserued from the first founding and for the freedome which the Citizens and very strangers haue to inioy their goods and dispose of them and for manifold other causes is worthily called in Latine Venetia as it were Veni etiam that is come againe From Venice to Farraria are eighty fiue miles by water and land and vpon the third of February after the new stile and in the yeere 1594. as the Italians begin the yeere the first of Ianuary and vpon Wednesday in the euening my selfe with two Dutchmen my consorts in this iourney went into the Barke which weekely passeth betwixt Venice and Ferrara The same night we passed twenty fiue miles vpon the marshes within the sea banke to Chioza or Chioggia or to speake vulgarly the better to be vnderstood in asking the way a Chioza the first village on firme land or rather seated in an Iland where the Ditch Clodia maketh a Hauen The next morning in the same Barke we entred the Riuer and passed fifteene miles to the Village Lorea and after dinner ten miles in the territory of Venice and eight miles in the Dukedome of Fervaria to Popaci and vpon Friday in the morning twenty two miles to Francoline where we paid for our passage from Venice thither each man three lires and a halfe By the way on land vpon both sides the Riuer we passed a pleasant plaine and fields of come diuided by furrowes in which furrowes Elmes were planted and vpon them Vines grew vp to the tops Such is the manuring of Lombardy or the Lower part of Italy towards the West where the Vines growing high yeeld not so rich wines as in the other parts of Italy vpon mountaines and hils vpon the sides whereof the Vines supported with short stakes and growing not high yeeld much richer wines By this way our Barke staied many times in Villages where we had time to eat or to prouide victuals to be carried with vs and we had an Ingistar or measure of wine something greater then our pint for three sols of Venice we bought bread after the weight for they haue loaues of all prices in which a stranger cannot be deceiued It is the fashion to see the meat in the kitchin and to agree of the price before you eate it which if you doe not you shall be subiect to the Hosts insatiable auarice who take pleasure to deceiue strangers And the price of the meats you may vnderstand by the Italians whom you shall see buy of the same And if the decrenesse displease you you may carry drie figs and raisons and dine with them the price of bread and wine being certaine but you must sup at your Hosts Ordinary if you will haue a bed I said that we left our Barke at Francoline where we might haue hired a coach to Ferraria for which we three should haue paied twenty two bolinei but the way being pleasant to walke we chose rather to goe these fiue miles on foot Ferraria is a very strong City of Fiaminia and neere the City the Riuer Po diuiding it selfe hath made a long and broad Iland which now is growne to firme land It was compassed with walles by the Exarches of the Easterne Emperors Lords thereof and after it was subiect to the Bishops of Raucnna then it came into the hands of the Princes of the family of Este the lawfull heires whereof possessed it to the yeer 1394 when it passed to the line of Bastards These Princes of Este were at first Marquesses and afterwards were created Dukes and Hercules of Este was the third Duke who liued about the yeere 1550. At this day the family of Este being extinct the Bishop of Rome hath inuaded this Dukedome The City seated in a plaine is compassed with a fenny banke and is of a triangular forme the three corners being towards the North West and South On the South side the riuer Po did runne of old but it hath now left his bed which is dried vp to firme land But the lesse branch thereof runneth from Francoline to Chioza where it fals into the sea the greater making many lakes at Comatio yeelds the Duke much profit by the fishing of eeles In the heart of the City is a large market place and ioyning thereunto a little Iland in which the father of Hercules of Este built a stately Pallace called Belueder and in the market place before the doore of the Pallace there is a statua sitting in a chaire erected to Duke Burso and another of a horse-man and of brasse erected to Duke Nicholas The streets are broad and very dirty in winter and no lesse subiect to dust in summer The houses are
caue curiously carued and one of the sinest old monuments I did euer see Hence we passed to s Baie an ancient Citie and for the sweetenesse preferred to Rome by Horace Nullus in vrbe locus Baijs praelucet am aenit No place of Rome sweete Baie doth excell The situation of this Citie is most sweete but all the houses neere the shoare are drowned except the Baths and the houses vpon the mountaine are all ruined neither doe any dwel here but some few poore and miserable people such as the husbandmen of Italy are commonly yet these ruines shew the pride and magnificence of that old time This Citie is said to haue the name of a friend of Vlisses there buried Here bee the foresaid ruines of Caligula his Bridge which I said doe lie on this side the Creeke Here we did see the stately ruines of two Senators houses where the excellent pictures did yet remaine vpon the highest roofe They shewed vs a tree as they said turned into a stone and the ruines of the Temples of Diana and Venus From hence we walked towards the Mountaine Misenus and neere the dead sea first wee came to t a hill made hollow by the building vnder it which is vulgarly called of the number of the roomes Cento camerelle that is One hundred little chambers Leander saith that it was a Cesterne to keepe fresh-water whereof the Romans had great store in these parts whether they came certaine seasons of the yeere to recreate themselues and all this Territorie on both sides neere this Creeke or Bay of the Sea are so full of ruined Palaces Temples and Sepulchers as a man would say they were not seuerall Villages but one great Citie This said building is large and foure square and sustained by foure rankes of foure square pillars into which wee were let down at a hole in the earth Round about the entrance there were many Celles almost foure square and of an vnequall bignesse parted with enteries winding about and because the building is intricate some thinke it was a Laberinth v The ruines of a stately building are opposite to this into which wee descended by fortie staires it hath no windowes but all the light comes in at crannies and it hath foure rankes of fouresquare pillars to beare vp the arched roofe Euery ranke hath twelue pillars and in all they be fortie eight and each one is twelue foote distant from the other and twelue foote high to which if you ad the high roofe of the building the roome is twenty fiue foot high which I beheld not without being amazed at the magnisicence of the Romans in these buildings This house is little broken downe and the plaister of the wall is so hard as I could not pierce it with my dagger and it is vulgarly called la piscina mirabile It is certaine that the Romans of old bestowed great charge in building places for the keeping of fish and some thinke this was built to that purpose by Antonia the wife of Drusus others say by Hortensius but Leander saith that it was built to keepe fresh water and he with other Writers doth iudge it a stately monumēt of the Pallace of Lucullus built neere Baie which he proueth out of Plutarch who mentions one Pallace of Lucullus in his foresaid village for his Summer dwelling and another here neere Baie for his Winter abode And Tacitus saith that the Emperour Tiberius foreseeing his death and often changing places at last came to this place and here died It were an infinite worke if I should seuerally describe the Pallaces of Marius Caesar and Lucullus I will not omit that our Guides I know not how credibly shewed vs certaine round w fields compassed round with Mountaines and at this time plowed which they said were the Elisian fields We are now come to the x Misene Promontary which hath the name of Misenus friend to Eneas buried here or rather by him sacrificed to the gods at the Lake Auernus as is aforesaid Vpon the top of this Mountaine was a Tower of old called Faro vpon which a light was hung for a sea-marke Vnder the Mountaine especially where it growes narrow and vpon three sides is washed by the Sea there be so many houses vnder the earth as the pillers thereof seeme onely to beare vp the Mountaine and among them there is one called Grotta Traconara of the winding passages therein which by the ruines now remaining seemes to haue been a magnificent worke and this Leander thinkes to haue been built to keepe fresh water Right opposite to this mountaine is the Y Cape of Minerua and neere that lies the Iland K Caprea or Capre easie to be seene by the white and high cliffes and famous by the cruelty and more then goatish lusts of the Emperour Tiberius when he with-drew himselfe out of the sight of the Senate and people of Rome to liue there in solitude This Iland hath no Hauen neither can little boates land there whereupon being safe from Pirates it was held a place of pleasure in the time of Augustus The creeke of the sea comming in betweene these two foresaid Promontories was of old called Sinus Cratera Vpon the side of the mountaine Misene lying towards Cuma is a lake of salt water called the dead sea into which water fals our of the creeke of rozzols and it was of old more large For Suetonius writes that Augustus kept one Nauy in this Lake and another at Rauenna to guard the vpper and lower sea And Tacitus writes that his successour Tiberius kept two Nauies in those places At this day the Lake is parted from the Sea with a banke some fifty paces broad and it is almost round in forme and some two miles broad and Plutarke writes that Lucullus made this Lake to keepe fishes therein From this mountaine Misene we walked vpon the Sea shore fiue very short miles and came to the ruines of the old City Z Cuma built by the Calcedons of the Greek Iland Euboia the oldest City in all Italy and it is said to haue had the name of a good presage from the Captaines of the Nauy or a woman great with child of that name It was seated of old vpon a hill neere the sea shore and yet on the side towards the land the wals are standing but the daughter hath deuoured the mother for the increase of Naples was the decrease of Cuma yet the ruines still remaine and vpon the top of the hill was the Temple of Apollo of which Virgil writes At pius AEneas arces quihus altus Apollo c. But good AEneas high Apollees Towers c. And there is yet an ancient Temple partly ruined A triumphall Arch is yet vnbroken but some say the foresaid Temple was consecrated to Hercules Of old Aristodamus did lead the forces of Cuma and after his victory they made him their Prince and Liuy writes that Tarqutnius the proud being banished came to him and there died Historians write
them according to the Greeke language for the statua of Isis was at Saint German till it was taken away in the yeere 1514 and a Crosse was set vp in the place thereof by the Bishop of Molun The City hath the name of Lutetia in Latin either of dirt for the Fens adioining or in the Greeke tongue of Morter there digged out because all the floares are of plaster and the houses plastered ouer And some say that it was of old called the City of Iulius Caesar who built great part thereof It lies in the eleuation of the Pole forty eight degrees and the chiefe part thereof namely the Iland or greater City is seated in a fenny ground For the Riuer Seyne hath often ouerflowed Paris and broken downe the bridges In the time of King Phillip Augustus the waters rose to the statuaes without the Cathedrall Church of Saint Mary on the North-side thereof as appeares by an inscription Also in the yeere 1373 for two moneths space they so ouerflowed the City as they passed in boates the streetes of Saint Denis and S. Antoine To conclude omitting many ouerflowings mentioned in Histories it appeares by an inscription in the vally of Misery that in the yeere 1496 there was a great inundation The City of old was all in the Iland and when it could not receiue the multitude increased the City was inlarged to both sides of the continent and first that part of the City called La ville then the third part called the Vniuersity were esteemed suburbes till after they were ioined to the City For the Kings Court and the City still increased with buildings so as the Subburbes were greater then the City whereupon King Charles the fifth gaue them the same priuiledges which the City had and compassed them with wals whereof the ruines yet appeare And new Suburbes being afterwards built King Henry the second in the yeere 〈◊〉 made an Edict that the houses vnpersected should be pulled down and that no more should afterwards be built The Riuer Seyne running from the South and entering at the South-side diuides the City into two parts the greater part whereof towards the East and North lies low in a plaine and is vulgarly called La ville The lesse lying towards the South and West vpon a higher ground is seated betweene hils and is called the Vniuersity Betweene those two parts lies the third namely the Iland called the City which is seated in a plaine and compassed on all sides with the Riuer Seyne running betweene the Ville and the Vniuersity And this part was of old ioined to the Vniuersity with two bridges and to the Ville with three bridges but now a sixth called the new bridge doth moreouer ioine the Iland aswell to the Ville as to the Vniuersity The part of the City called the Ville is compassed on the south and west sides with the Riuer Seyne and vpon the East and North sides with wals rampiers and ditches in the forme of halfe a circle The second part of the City called the Vniuersity is compassed on the East and North sides with the Riuer Seyne and vpon the South and West sides with wals which they write to haue the forme of a hat saue that the long suburbes somewhat alter this forme For my part it seemed to me that ioined with the Iland it had also the forme of another halfe circle though somewhat lesse then the former The third part called the Iland or City is compassed round about with the Riuer Seyne and vpon the South-east side is defended from the floods of the Riuer by foure little Ilands which are marked in the map with blacke ines and lie like Rampiers diuerting the streame from beating on the City To this Iland they passe on both sides by bridges and in respect of the Bishops Pallace he Kings greater Pallace it may be called the heart of the City The old wals of the Ville were first of lesse circuit then now they are for new wals were built which also included the Suburbes and the inner wall is of vnpolished stone the outer wall is of earth compailed round about with ditches which neere the Riuer are broad and full of water but further off towards the North and East are narrow and altogether drie But the old wals are either demolished or conuerted to the supporting of priuate houses The Vniuersity is compassed with like wals and because it is seated vpon high ground the ditches are altogether drie And the wals of earth aswell of the Ville as the Vniuersity are so broad as three or foure may walke together vpon them And round about the City I meane the Ville and Vniuersity compassing the Iland are many rampiers vppon the wall like so many Forts The Iland or City was of old compassed with wals wherewith the greater Pallace lying towards the North at this day is compassed Paris in generall is subiect to the King so as it hath vnder him a peculiar iurisdiction and in spirituall matters it is subiect to the Bishop In the time of King Lewis the eleuenth one hundred and foure thousand Citizens were numbered able to beare armes in the yeere 1466 and King Charles the fifth in the yeere 1371 gaue the Citizens the rights and priuiledges of Gentlemen King Phillip Augustus in the yeere 1090 made Shiriffes to gouerne the City with consular authority and he gaue the City for Armes a ship adorned with Lillies he paued the streetes with flint and compassed the City with wals The Parisians haue raised many seditions The first in the yeere 1306 against rich men raising the rents of houses The second with the King of Nauar and the English against the Dolphin The third in the yeere 1383 against the Kings Treasurers which Charles the sixth returning with his Army out of Flanders did seuerely punish The fourth betweene the factions of Orleans and Burgundy The fifth most pestilent and longest with the Guisians against the last King of Valois The building of the City is for the most part stately of vnpolished stone with the outside plastered and rough cast and the houses for the most part are foure stories high and sometimes sixe besides the roofe which also hath glasse windowes The streetes are somewhat large and among them the fairest is that of Saint Dennis the second Saint Honere the third Saint Antoine and the fourth Saint Martine And in the Iland the waies to these streetes are fairest The pauement is of little but thicke and somewhat broade stones But in the meane time the streetes of the Ville either for the low situation or by the negligence of the Citizens are continually dirty and full of filth The three parts of the City namely the Ville the Iland and the Vniuersity being ioined together are of a round forme which of all others is most capable saue that the halfe circle of the Ville is greater then the other halfe circle which is compassed as it were with the two hornes of
ridiculous and that they were in great part vndertaken by bankerouts and men ofbase condition I might easily iudge that in short time they would become disgracefull whereupon I changed my mind For I remembred the Italian Prouerbe La bellezza di putana la forza del'fachino c. nulla vagliano that is the beauty of a Harlot the strength of the Porter and to omit many like Musicke it selfe and all vertues become lesse prized in them who set them out to sale Also I remembred the pleasant fable that Iupiter sent raine vpon a Village wherewith whosoeuer was wet became a foole which was the lot of all the Inhaitants excepting one man who by chance for dispatching of businesse kept within doores that day and that when he came abroad in the euening all the rest mocked him as if they had beene wise and he onely foolish so as he was forced to pray vnto Iupiter for another like shower wherein he wetted himselfe also chusing rather to haue the loue of his foolish neighbours being a foole then to be dispised of them because he was onely wise And no doubt in many things wee must follow the opinion of the common people with which it is better regarding onely men to be foolish then alone to be wise I say that I did for the aforesaid causes change my mind and because I could not make that vndone which was done at least I resolued to desist from that course Onely I gaue out one hundred pound to receiue three hundred at my returne among my brethren and some few kinsmen and dearest friends of whom I would not shame to confesse that I receiued so much of gift And lest by spending vpon the stocke my patrimony should be wasted I moreouer gaue out to fiue friends one hundred pound with condition that they should haue it if I died orafter three yeeres should repay it with one hundred and fifty pound gaine if I returned which I hold a disaduantageous aduenture to the giuer of the money Neither did I exact this money of any man by sute of Law after my returne which they willingly and presently paid me onely some few excepted who retaining the very money I gaue them deale not therein so gentleman-like with me as I did with them And by the great expences of my iourny much increased by the ill accidents of my brothers death and my owne sickenesse the three hundred fifty pounds I was to receiue of gain after my return the one hundred pounds which my brother and I carried in our purses would not satisfie the fiue hundred pound we had spent though my brother died within the compasse of the first yeere but I was forced to pay the rest out of my owne patrimony Gentle Reader I will no longer trouble thee with these trifles onely in the behalfe of them who for a reasonable gaine and vpon long iournies and not vpon ridiculous aduentures haue put out their mony in this sort Giue leaue to me howsoeuer I desisted from that course to adde this All manners of attire came first into the City and Countrey from the Court which being once receiued by the common people and by very Stage-players themselues the Courtiers iustly cast off and take new fashions though somewhat too curiously and whosoeuer weares the old men looke vpon him as vpon a picture in Arras hangings For it is prouerbially said that we may eate according to our owne appetite but in our apparell must follow the fashion of the multitude with whom we liue But in the meane time it is not reproch to any who of old did were those garments when they were in fashion In like sort many daunces and measures are vsed in Court but when they come to be vulgar and to be vsed vpon very stages Courtiers and Gentlemen think them vncomely to be vsed yet is it no reproch to any man who formerly had skill therein To conclude that I may not trouble you with like examples which are infinite I say that this manner of giuing out mony vppon these aduentures was first vsed in Court and among the very Noble men and when any of them shewed thereby extraordinary strength the most censorious approued it but when any performed a long iourny with courage and discretion no man was found who did not more or lesse commend it according to the condition of the iourney performed Now in this age if bankerouts Stage-players and men of base condition haue drawne this custome into contempt I grant that Courtiers and Gentlemen haue reason to forbeare it yet know not why they should be blamed who haue thus put out their mony in another age when this custome was approued A man may iustly say it is great iniustice that our actions should be measured by opinion and not by reason but when a man leaues any custome that hath beene approued left hee should oppose himselfe to the common people a monster of many heads the most enuious hath nothing whereat they may iustly carpe And if any measure may be imposed to detracters surely they must spare them who vndertake long voyages ful of great dangers who doe not put out their money in Tauernes or at feasts to any man without distinction but dispose of their money with their friends vpon reasonable aduenture of gaine which in absence they cannot otherwise dispose to profit Finally who being not rich by patrimony take these iournies onely for experience and to be inabled to that expence doe condition this reasonable gaine I say the detracters must spare these and distinguish them from others who make cursorie iournies without any desire to better their vnderstanding thereby and more from those who in these courses rather make triall of their bodies strength then of their mindes abilitie And most of all from those who expose themselues to the scorne of men by base and ridiculous aduentures or that little differ from selfe-murtherers in vndertaking desperate actions for gaine In the same yere 1595 wherein some few months past I returned into England from my former iourney I now set forth againe towards Ierusalem and vpon the twentie nine of Nouember after the old stile I and my brother consort of my iourney went by water twentie miles which are seuenteene miles by land from London to Grauesend in a boat with two Oares for which we payed two shillings sixe Pence At last the winde seruing vs vpon the seuenth of December in the euening we set saile at an ebbing water and vpon the eighth of December in the afternoon hauing passed the Riuer Thames wee cast anchor vpon the shoare of England right before the Village Margets Then in the twilight of the euening wee put to Sea and the ninth of December entring the narrow Sea of Zealand vpon our call a boat came out of Vlishing to vs in which we went thither leauing our ship which went forward to Midleburg and each man paying a doller for his passage The eleuenth of December
we walked on foot one mile to Midleburge where being inuited by our friends as we were at Vlishing we supped on free cost The twelfth day wee passed by Sea in two houres space to Armuren where wee cast anchor not without feare of Spanish Pirats who comming with small boates out of the Castle Wouda did then many robberies vpon this Sea The thirteenth day in the morning wee sailed nine miles to the Iland Plat where a Man of warre sent out by the States against these Pirats did lie at anchor vnder the guard whereof we also lay at anchor the night following The fourteenth day in the morning hauing alwaies a faire winde wee sailed eight milcs to Delphs hauen in Holland where we left our Barke and each man payed twelue stiuers for his passage and my selfe gaue three stiuers to a Marriner that had attended me From hence my selfe and three consorts hired a Wagon for 18 stiuers to the Hage where I payed for my supper a Flemish guilden and seuenteene stiuers The fiftenth day of December which after the new stile was Christmas day that Feast by the old stile falling on the twentie fiue of December my selfe and three consorts hired a Wagon for two guldens for two long miles to Leyden From Leyden at a set hower euery day boates passe to all the next Cities and we entring the boat that went for Amsterdam payed each of vs 6 stiuers for our passage First wee passed fiue miles vpon the Lake called Harlam Meare which Lake is much subiect to Tempests Our boate was then drawne by force of hands ouer a Damme into a Channell of water in which we passed two miles and so came to Amsterdam The boates are thus drawne out of the Lake into the Channell by a priuiledge granted to Harlam because that Citie had spent much money in the workes for conueyance of waters And this was granted to them to the ende that this passage being shut vp to Barkes of greater burthen the Merchants wares passing by land should be forced to come by Harlam We lodged in a English Merchants house at Amsterdam and payed eight stiuers for each meale The seuenteenth of December we entred a little ship to saile out of Holland into West-Freesland but being almost frozen in with yce after wee had sailed two dayes and a night with great danger through huge pieces of yce and were the second night also compassed therewith and had been forced to lie at anchor a good space we hardly arriued the third day at Horne in North Holland which Citie is fiue miles distant from Amsterdam and each man payed ten stiuers for our passage and two stiuers for the vse of a little cabbin in the ship The ninteenth day we would needs go on foot two miles as long as ten English miles to Enchnsen because they asked foure guldens and a half for a Wagon And in the mid way it hapned that we light vpon a sledg which wee 4 consorts hired for 20 stiuers and therin wee were all carried but for my part I paied 5 stiuers more for the cariage of my necessaries And we could not sufficiently maruell at our first setting forth that the Villages should be so frequent in such an obscure Countrey as wee could hardly see how they were parted one from the other for halfe the way at least From hence we sailed with a very faire wind in three houres space two miles to Stauern a Village seated in West Freezland and each man paid ten stiuers for his passage foure for his supper and foure for beere The next day we passed on foot one mile of Freezland which miles are exceeding long to Warcome and we hired two Clownes for two guldens to carry our necessaries which Clownes drinking stoutly all the night we were forced beyond our bargaine to pay for their intemperance which wrong we could not auoid though we much repined at it Early in the morning we passed by water one mile ouer a Lake to Bolsworth and each man paid two stiuers and a halfe for his passage and eight stiuers and a halfe for his dinner In the afternoone we hired a boat for three miles to Lewerden and each man paid sixe stiuers for his passage and thirty foure stiuers for his supper and breakefast with wine The next day in the morning we might haue passed to Groning in a common boat each man paying twelue stiuers but because the couetous Marriners had ouerloaded it and the winds were boisterous we foure consorts hired a priuate boate for seuen guldens and a halfe The first day we passed by water fiue miles to Kaltherberg that is the cold Inne with a very faire wind but so boysterous as we were in no small feare Here each man paid twelue stiuers for his supper and seuen stiuers for his drinke while in good fellowship we sate at the fier after supper The next day we passed in the same boat two miles to Groning in a great tempest of wind besides that in the midst of the Lake we lost our Rudder being thereby in great danger had not the waues of the water by Gods mercy driuen it to vs. Here we paid eight stiuers each man for a plentifull dinner but without wine In the afternoone we passed by water two miles to Delphs I le and each man paid forty stiuers for the hier of the boate and twenty foure stiuers for supper and breakefast and fire in our priuate chamber From hence we sayled with a most faire wind in two houres space two miles to Emden the first City of the German Empire seated in East Friezland and each man paid sixe stiuers for his passage and as much for his dinner In the afternoone we passed in a boat hired for foure guldens whereof each man paid ten stiuers for his part three miles to a little City Lyre and by the way passed by the Fort Nordlire in which the Earle of Emden held his Court. We rested at Lyre this night and the next day being Christmas day by the old stile and each man paid sixteene stiuers for each supper and eight stiuers for one dinner The Spanish Garisons daily sent out free-booters into these parts with the permission of the Earle of Emden for his hatred to the Citizens of Emden who lately had shut him out of their City and of the Earle of Oldenburge for his hatred against the Citizens of Breme Therefore we being here many passengers did at last obtaine of the Earle of Emden that we might hier his souldiers to conduct vs safely for some few miles To these souldiers we gaue twenty one dollers yet when at the three miles end we came to the Village Stickhausen and were now in the greatest danger they as hired to goe no further would needes returne till each of vs gaue them a German gulden to conduct vs onely to the next village being the confines of the Counties of Emdens and Oldenburg To which they were perswaded not so much by our prayers as by
the way being very slipperie and so we rode one most long Dutch mile to Bersena The ninth day we rode three most long miles to Bergo I meane Dutch miles for I had no other companions but Dutch who reckon the way after their owne miles This day wee passed infamous places for robberies especially one where 5 waies leade to 5 wooddie Mountaines and here we did see theeues being our selues in safetie they hauing no meanes to come to vs in a Plaine so couered with snow that our Horses were vpto the saddles therein and could hardly passe the high way After dinner we rode two most long Dutch miles to Griguo The tenth day we rode two Dutch miles to Primolano the first Village in the State of Venice but from the foresaid confines of the Empire to this place all the Territorie belonged to diners Gentlemen neither subiect to the Empire nor to the State of Venice but liuing free onely acknowledging to hold their land from the Arch-Dukes of Austria Also beyond Primolane subiect to the State of Venice there is a Fort built betweene a narrow passage of two Mountaines which Fort is very little but hangeth ouer the high way being built on the side of a Mountaine and this Fort is kept by Dutch Souldiers It hath no Gate but they that will goe forth must be let downe by a rope and they that will enter it must in like sort be drawne vp Moreouer before dinner we rode from Primolano one Dutch mile to Carpanella and at our setting forth from Primolan wee passed ouer a Bridge vnder which was little water for the present but when the snow melts from the Mountaines or any great raine falles the waters there are high and violent and some moneth past when the Carrier of Augspurg and his consorts could no way passe the same they told vs that an English Gentleman impatient of delay and trying to passe the same was drowned and that his body was found after somefew daies when it had been spoiled of a gold chaine and store of Crownes they being vnknowne who got this bootie and that he was at first buried in a Chappell but after taken vp by the Priests and buried in the high way when they heard he was an Englishman and thereupon suspected him to be an heritike For the building of this bridge each of vs payed two creitzers in the next Village In our mornings iourney the way was narrow betweene Mountaines and we might see and heare Mountaines of dissolued snow drawing with them huge stones to fall with great noise into the high way before vs and into other adioyning Vallyes After dinner we rode through a plane tilled after the manner of Lombardy three Dutch miles and a halfe to the Castle Franco The twelfth day we rode three Dutch miles to the Citie Treuigi through a like Plaine After dinner for I haue formerly described Treuigi we rode two Dutch miles or ten Italian miles through a like Plaine to Mestre From hence we passed by water to Venice being fiue miles first in a Ditch each man paying one soldo for his passage then in other boats ouer the Lakes wherewith Venice is compassed each man paying three soldi for his passage I omit to speake any thing of Venice which I haue formerly described We being now to take our purposed iourney into the Turkes Dominions thought it best first to goe to Constantinople where the English Ambassadour giuing vs a Ianizare for our guide we hoped the rest of our iourney would be pleasant and void of all trouble For this Ianizare aswell for their wonted faithfulnesse to those that giue them wages as for the account he was to make of our safetie to the said Ambassadour no doubt would haue been a faithfull guide to vs. But when we inquired of the way from Raguza to Constantinople by land all the Postes and Messengers passing that way told vs that the warre of Hungarie made all those parts full of tragedies and miserie Then we thought to goe by Sea to Constantinople but when wee heard that no ship would be had in three moneths at least that long delay was hatefull to vs. Too late after my returne by experience in my iourney and conference I found a third way namely by Sea from Venice to Zant and from that Iland taking the Councell of the English Merchants there to Petrasso seated vpon the Corinthian Creeke of the Sea in Peloponesus a Prouince of Greece called by the Turkes Morea then to take a Ianizare from the English Consul there residing and with him to passe by land to Athens and by Sea in little Barkes from thence to Constantinople The fourth way was not vnknowne to vs namely to goe by Sea to Cyprus as wee did and in the same ship to haue passed to Scanderona and there taking a Ianizare from the English Factor maintained there by our Merchants of Haleppo to haue passed vnder his conduct by Sea to Ierusalem Or else to haue gone from Scanderona to Haleppo and there taking a Ianizare of the English Consul and obtaining letters from the Italians to recommend the care of vs and our safetie to the Guardian of the Monastery of the Latin Church in Ierusalem which our Merchants would easily haue obtained for vs to haue passed from thence by land to Ierusalem But when wee imparted at Cyprus this our purpose to the Consorts of our iourney from Venice thither who were then hiring a Barke to passe from Ciprus to Ioppa whence they had but fortie miles to Ierusalem they were very desirous of our company and with great earnestnesse gaue vs confidence that they would procure the said Guardian and Fryers at Ierusalem to doe vs all courtesie in their power and so perswaded vs to commit our selues to their company and protection I will adde for the instruction of others that the said Ianizare vseth to be hired for eight Aspers a day and if he take this charge of any mans safetie from an Ambassadour or any Christian Officer of account hee will easily saue a man more then his wages in gouerning his expences and keeping him from those extortions which the Turkes vse to doe vpon Christians as also from all their iniuries But I returne to the purpose We lying at Venice and while our health was yet sound and our Crownes vnspent desiring with all possible speede to finish our voyage into Turky did by good hap light vpon French consorts for our iourney namely two Franciscan Friers one Eremitan Frier and two honest young Frenchmen both Citizens of Bloys in France and one of them a Burgers sonne the other a Notarie of the Citie and lastly a Flemming or Dutchman Citizen of Emden in East Freezeland This Fleming was a fat man borne to consume victuals he had now spent in his iourny to Venice thirty pound sterling and here for his iourney to Ierusalem had already put into the ship full Hogs-heads of Wine and store of all victuals when
higher and higher towards the West and consists especially of one broad and very faire street which is the greatest part and sole ornament thereof the rest of the side streetes and allies being of poore building and inhabited with very poore people and this length from the East to the West is about a mile whereas the bredth of the City from the North to the South is narrow and cannot be halfe a mile At the furthest end towards the West is a very strong Castle which the Scots hold vnexpugnable Camden saith this Castle was of old called by the Britaines Castle meyned agnea by the Scots The Castle of the Maids or Virgines of certaine Virgines kept there for the Kings of the Picts and by Ptolomy the winged Castle And from this Castle towards the West is a most steepe Rocke pointed on the highest top out of which this Castle is cut But on the North South sides without the wals lie plaine and fruitfull fields of Corne. In the midst of the foresaid faire streete the Cathedrall Church is built which is large and lightsome but little stately for the building and nothing at all for the beauty and ornament In this Church the Kings seate is built some few staires high of wood and leaning vpon the pillar next to the Pulpit And opposite to the same is another seat very like it in which the incontinent vse to stand and doe pennance and some few weekes past a Gentleman being a stranger and taking it for a place wherein Men of better quality vsed to sit boldly entred the same in Sermon time till he was driuen away with the profuse laughter of the common sort to the disturbance of the whole Congregation The houses are built of vnpolished stone and in the faire streete good part of them is of free stone which in that broade streete would make a faire shew but that the outsides of them are faced with wooden galleries built vpon the second story of the houses yet these galleries giue the owners a faire and pleasant prospect into the said faire and broad street when they sit or stand in the same The wals of the City are built of little and vnpolished stones and seeme ancient but are very narrow and in some places exceeding low in other ruiued From Edenborow there is a ditch of water yet not running from the Inland but rising ofsprings which is carried to Lethe and so to the Sea Lethe is seated vpon a creek of the Sea called the Frith some mile from Edenborow and hath a most commodious and large Hauen When Monsieur Dessy a Frenchman did fortifie Lethe for the strength of Edenborow it began of a base Village to grow to a Towne And when the French King Francis the second had married Mary Queene of the Scots againe the French who now had in hope deuoured the possession of that Kingdome and in the yeere 1560. began to aime at the conquest of England more strongly fortified this Towne of Lethe but Elizabeth Queene of England called to the succour of the Lords of Scotland against these Frenchmen called in by the Queene soone effected that the French returned into their Countrey and these fortifications were demolished Erom Leth I crossed ouer the Frith which ebs and flowes as high as Striuelin to the Village King-korn being eight miles distant and seated in the Region or Country called Fife which is a Peninsule that is almost an Iland lying betweene two creekes of the Sea called Frith and Taye and the Land yeelds corne and pasture and seacoales as the Seas no lesse plentifully yeeld among other fish store of oysters shel fishes and this Countrey is populous and full of Noblemens and Gentlemens dwellings commonly compassed with little groues though trees are so rare in those parts as I remember not to haue seene one wood From the said Village King-korn I rode ten very long miles to Falkeland then the Kings House for hunting but of old belonging to the Earles of Fife where I did gladly see I ames the sixth King of the Scots at that time lying there to follow the pastimes of hunting and hawking for which this ground is much commended but the Pallace was of old building and almost ready to fall hauing nothing in it remarkeable I thought to haue ridden from hence to Saint Andrewes a City seated in Fife and well known as an Vniuersity and the seate of the Archbishop But this iourney being hindred I wil onely say that the Bishop of Saint Andrewes at the intercession of the King of Scotland Iames the third was by the Pope first made Primate of all Scotland the same Bishop and all other Bishops of that Kingdome hauing formerly to that day beene consecrated and confirmed by the Archbishop of Yorke in England Likewise I purposed to take my iourney as farre as Striuelin where the King of the Scots hath a strong Castle built vpon the front of a steepe Rocke which King Iames the sixth since adorned with many buildings and the same hath for long time beene committed to the keeping of the Lords of Eriskin who likewise vse to haue the keeping of the Prince of Scotland being vnder yeeres And from thence I purposed to returne to Edenborow but some occasions of vnexpected businesse recalled me speedily into England so as I returned presently to Edenborow and thence to Barwicke the same way I came I adde for passengers instruction that they who desire to visit the other Counties of England and Ireland may passe from Edenborow to Carlile chiefe City of Comberland in England and so betweene the East parts of Lancashire and the West parts of Yorke and then through Darbyshire Nottinghamshire Warwickeshire Staffordshire and Chesshire may take their iourney to the City Westchester whence they shall haue commodity to passe the Sea to Dablin in Ireland and while they expect this passage they may make a cursory iourney into Flintshire and Caernaruenshire in Northwales to see the antiquities thereof or otherwise may goe directly to Holy Head and thence make a shorter cut to Dublyn in Ireland From Dublyn they may passe to see the Cities of the Prouince Mounster whence they may commodiously passe to the South parts of Wales and there especially see the antiquities of Merlyn and so taking their iourney to the West parts of England may search the antiquities of these seuerall Counties and easily find commoditie to passeinto the West parts of France And all this circuit beginning at London may with ordinary fauourable winds according to the season of the yeere be easily made from the beginning of March to the end of September Alwaies I professe onely to prescribe this course to such as are curious to search all the famous monuments and antiquities of England mentioned in Camdens compleat description thereof CHAP. VI. Of the manner to exchange Moneys into forraine parts and the diuers moneys of diuers parts together with the diuers measures of miles in sundry Nations most necessary
next day were sent to Corke This night Sir Iohn Barkeley went out with some three hundred foot hauing with him Captaine Flower Captaine Morris and Captaine Bostocke and fell into the Spaniards trenches and did beate them to the Towne fell into the gate with them and killed and hurt aboue twenty of the Spaniards hauing but three hurt of our men Hitherto we lodged in Cabbins so as it rained vpon vs in our beds and when we changed our shirts The sixe and twenty the Army dislodged and incamped on an hill on the North-side before Kinsale called the Spittle somewhat more then musket shot from the Towne and there intrenched strongly When we fat downe we discouered that the Spaniards had gotten a prey of two hundred or three hundred Cowes and many sheepe which were in an Iland as it seemed vpon the South-east side of the Towne beyond the water which wee could not passe but by going eight or nine mile about where there was a necke of land to goe into it Captaine Taffe being sent with horse and foot vsed such expedition in that businesse as he attained the place before night and 〈◊〉 hot skirmish recouered the prey saue onely some twenty Cowes that the Spaniards had killed although they were vnder the guard of a Castle called Castle Ny Parke which the Spaniards had in possession The disposall of the whole Army in Ireland the seuen and twentieth of October 1601. Left at Loughfoyle Sir Henry Dockwra 50. Sir Iohn Bolles 50. Horse 100. Sir Henry Dockwra 200. Sir Matthew Morgan 150. Captaine Badby 150. S r Iohn Bolles 150. Captaine Erington 100. Captaine Vaughan 100. Captaine Bingley 150. Captaine Coach 100. Captaine Basset 100. Captaine Dutton 100. Captaine Floyde 100. Captaine Oram 100. Captaine Alford 100. Captaine Pinner 100. Captaine Winsor 100. Captaine Sydley 100. Captaine Atkinson 100. Captaine Digges 100. Captaine Brooke 100. Captaine Stafford 100. Captaine Orrell 100. Captaine Letgh 100. Captaine Sidney 100. Captaine Gower 150. Captaine Willes 150. Captaine W. N. 100. Foote 3000. Horse left at Carickfergus Sir Arthur Chichester Gouernour 50. Captaine Iohn Iephson 100. Horse 150. Foote left at Carickfergus Sir Arthur Chichester Gouernour 200. Sir Foulke Conway 150. Captaine Egerton 100. Captaine Norton 100. Captaine Billings 150. Captaine Phillips 150. Foote 850. Foote left in Lecale Sir Richard Moryson the Gouernours Company vnder his Lieutenant himselfe attending the Lord Deputy at Kinsale 150. Horse left in Northerne Garrisons At the Newrie Sir Francis Stafford 50. At Mount Norreys Sir Samuel Bagnol 50. Horse 100. Foote in the North Garrisons At the Newrye Sir Francis Stafford 200. At Dundalke Captaine Freckleton 100. At Carlingford Captaine Hansard 100. At Mount Norreys Captaine Atherton 100. At Arinagh Sir Henrie Dauers vnder his Lieutenant himselfe being at Kinsale 150. At Blackwater Captaine Thomas Williams 150. Foote 800. Horse left in the Pale and places adioyning In Kilkenny the Earle of Ormond 50. In Kildare the Earle of Kildare 50. In West-meath the Lord of Dunsany 50. In Lowth Sir Garret Moore 25. Horse 175. Foote in the Pale At Kilkenny the Earle of Ormond 150. Captaine Iohn Masterson 100. Captaine Thomas Butler 100. At Carlogh Sir Christopher Saint Laurence 150. Sir Francis Shane 100. Sir Tilbot Dillon 100. Sir Edward Fitz Garret 100. Sir Henrie Harington 100. Sir Richard Greame 100. At the Nasse Sir Laurence Esmond 150. In Ophalia Sir George Bourcher 100. Sir Edwird Harbert 100. Sir Henrie Warren 100. In Leax Fort Sir Francis Rush 150. To be placed by the Counsell at Dublin Sir Henrie Power vnder his Lieutenant himselfe being at Kinsale 150. Sir Samuel Bagnol 150. Sir William Warren 100. Captaine Guest 150 Captaine Cawfeild 150. At Kildare the Earle of Kildare 100. Captaine Ocarrol in his Countrie 100. At Kelles the Lord of Dunsany 150. In West-meath the Lord of Deluin 150. Captaine Mac Henry 100. At Ardee Sir Garret Meere 100. Captaine N. N. 150. Foote 3150. Horse left in Cònnaght The Earle of Clanrickard 50. Captaine Wayman 12. Horse 62. Foote left in Connaght Sir Oliuer Lambert Gouernour 150. The Earle of Clanrickard 150. Sir Thomas Bourk 150. Captaine Clare 150. Captaine Thomas Bourk 100. Captaine Malbye 150. Captaine Tybbot ne Long 100. Captaine Dauy Bourke 100. A Company void for the Iudges pay 100. Foote 1150. Totall of Horse 587. Totall of Foote 9100. The Lyst of the Army with his Lordship at Kinsale The old Mounster Lyst Sir George Carew Lord President 50. Sir Anthony Cooke 50. Captaine Fleming 25. Captaine William Taffe 50. Horse 175. Foote of the old Lyst The Lord President 150. The Earle of Thomond 150. Lord Barry 100. Lord Audley 150. Sir Charles Wilmot 150. Master Treasurer 100. Captaine Roger Haruey 150. Captaine Thomas Spencer 150. Captaine George Flower 100. Captaine William Saxey 100. Captaine Garret Dillon 100. Captaine Nuse 100. Sir Richard Percy 150. Sir Francis Barkeley 100. Captaine Power 100. A Company for the Earle of Desmonds vse 100. Foote 1950. New Companies sent into Mounster lately which arriued and were put into pay the fourth of September past The Lord President added to his Company 50. The Earle of Thomond added to his Company 50. Sir George Thorneton 100. Captaine Skipwith 100. Captaine Morris 100. Captaine Kemish 100 Captaine North 100. Captaine Owslye 100. Captaine Fisher 100. Captaine Yorke 100. Captaine Hart 100. Captaine Lisle 100. Captaine Rauenseroft 100. Cap. Rich. Hansard 100. Captaine George Greame 100. Captaine Yeluerton 100. Captaine Panton 100. Captaine Cullom 100. Captaine Hobby 100. Captaine Gowen Haruy 100. Captaine Coote 100. Foote 2000. Horse brought from the North and the Pale to Kinsale The Lord Deputies troope 100. Sir Henrie Dauers 100. Master Marshall 50. Sir Christopher Saint Laurence 25. Sir Henrie Harrington 25. Sir Edward Harbert 12. Sir William Warren 25. Sir Richard Greame 50. Sir Oliuer Saint Iohns 25. Sir Francis Rush 12. Captaine George Greame 12. Horse 436. Foote that Sir Iohn Barkeley brought from the borders of Connaght to Kinsale Sir Iohn Barkley 200. Sir Arthur Sauage 150. Sir Oliuer Saint Iohns 200. Sir Iohn Dowdall 100. Captaine Kingsmill 100. Captaine George Blount 100. Captaine Bosteck 100. Foote 950. Foote brought out of the Pale by Master Marshall and from the Northerne Garrisons by Sir Henry Dauers to Kinsale The Lord Deputies Guard 200. Master Marshall 150. Sir Beniamin Berry 150. Sir William Fortescue 150. Sir Iames Fitz-piers 150. Sir Thomas Loftus 100. Sir Henrie Follyet 150. Captaine Edward Blany 150. Captaine Iosias Bodley 150. Captaine Rotheram 150. Captaine Thomas Roper 150. Captaine Roe 150. Captaine Treuer 100. Captaine Ralph Constable 100. Foote 2000. At Kinsale Horse 611. Foote 6900. Totall of the whole Army in Ireland Horse 1198. Foote 16000. Of the sixe thousand nine hundred foote at Kinsale in Mounster one Company of one hundred was conuerted to the Earle of Desmonds vse who was then kept in England and some were placed vpon the borders of the Prouince to bee a stay to the Countrie And all the
Lord Deputy receiued from her Maiestie direction that forasmuch as the County of Clare was of ancient time within the Gouernement or precinct of the Prouince of Mounster vntill of late it was annexed to the Prouince of Connaght which her Maiestie vnderstood was vpon some vntrue surmise made by Commissioners for Connaght to the grieuance and dislike of her subiects of that Countie That the Lord Deputie and the Counsell there should speedily consider of this information and if they found it not euidently an hinderance to her seruice then they speedily should giue order that by reuocation of the former Commissioners and letters Patents for gouernement of these seuerall Prouinces and by granting new Commissioners of like authoritie and effect and by all other wayes requisite in Law the said Countie of Clare should bee reunited and annexed vnto the Prouince of Mounster and be reduced vnder the order and gouernement of the Lord President and Councell of Mounster which her Maiestie was perswaded would bee for the aduancement of her seruice and the good liking of her louing subiects in those parts The same two and twentieth day foure Pieces were planted by the Cannon and demy Cannon which altogether played into the Towne one of which shot killed foure men in the Market place and strucke off a Captaines leg called Don Iohn de Saint Iohn who after died of that hurt we likewise planted three Culuerings in the Iland beyond the water in which the foresaid Castle Nypark stands and from whence we heard that Don Iohn feared annoiance The three and twentieth these did beate vpon the old Towne with good effect And the same day our other sixe Pieces on the North-East side plaied vpon the Towne and so continued till night in which time in all mens iudgements and by report of the prisoners we tooke they did great hurt to the Towne This day while the Lord Deputie the Marshall and Serieant Maior were viewing the ground where the approches were intended a priuate souldier of Sir Iohn Barkleys in their sight and in the face of the Spanish guards attempting to steale a Spanish sentenel as hee had stolne diuers before this sentenel being seconded by foure that he saw not he fought with them all fiue whereof one was the Serieant Maior whom he had almost taken and when he found he could doe no good vpon them all he came off without other hurt then the cutting of his hand a little with the breaking of a thrust which one of them made at him and he hurt the Serieant Maior The night following we began certaine neere approches on the North-East side of the Towne on a hill which by the naturall situation thereof was free from sudden sallies by reason of a Valley betweene it and the Towne so as it might bee speedily seconded from the Campe. There with much expedition was raised a Fort and Artillery planted to play into the Towne which with three or foure Companies was easily gardable for in this businesse there seemed nothing more to bee respected then how to approch and infest the enemy in such sort as neither our old nor our new men might be ouerspent or ouer-harried with watches and works the time of the yeere and extremitie of the weather considered nor the enemy might take any aduantage to surprise our works by their sallying without ingaging themselues in fight with our whole Army For making those approches the Lord Deputy drew out one thousand foote continuing the worke all night and although the ground were extreme hard by reason of the Frost and the night very light yet that night they brought the worke to very good perfection The enemy played all the night vpon them with great vollyes but hurt onely three men either in the trenches or in diuers sallyes they made in the one whereof a squadron of our new men did beat them back to the Gates This day the Lord President aduertised that Odonnell by aduantage of a Frost so great as seldome had been seene in Ireland had passed a Mountaine and so had stolne by him into Mounster whereupon he purposed to returne with the forces hee had to strengthen the Campe. And in the euening Sir Richard Leuison by the Lord Deputies direction drew the Admirall and Vice-Admirall in betweene the Iland and Kinsale whence the foure and twentieth day they shot into the Towne The fiue and twentieth day all the Artillery still played vpon the Towne but the shot from the ships doing little hurt saue onely vpon the base Towne the Lord Deputie gaue direction to spend few shot more except it were on the high Towne This night direction was giuen to make a platforme for the Artillery vpon the trenches which was made the three and twentieth at night Somewhat after midnight the Spaniards made a sudden salley with purpose to force the trench but were soone beaten backe by Sir Francis Barkeley who commanded the watch that night in that place The sixe and twentieth the Lord President with the two Regiments of foote and with his horse he had led out against Odonnell together with a Connaght Regiment vnder the Earle of Clanrickard and a Regiment of the Pale vnder Sir Christopher Saint Laurence which vpon the way were commanded to ioyne with the Lord President came to the Campe and these foure Regiments were that night quartered by themselues vpon the Westside of Kinsale to inuest the Towne more closely and to keepe Odonnell and the Spaniards from ioyning together which quarter or lesser Campe was commanded by the Earle of Thomond for the Lord President remained euer neere the Lord Deputy in the great Campe and so did the Earle of Clanrickard This day the three Culuerings were brought from the Iland beyond the water on the East-side and were planted on a hill in a point of land neere the water on this side of the Hauen lying to the East of our Fort newly built there to which hill the Towne lay neere and very open In the meane time the Spaniards from the Towne played vpon our ships with a Demy-Cannon and shot our Admirall twise and our Vice-admirall once while they rode as aforesaid close by the Towne but our ships within few shot exchanged did dismount their Demi-Cannon so as they could make no more shot with it and at the same shot hurt their chiefe Gunner The seuen and twentieth day betimes in the morning our three pieces planted the day before on the point of the hill neere the water side played vpon the Towne and did great hurt to the enemy by reason they were planted so neere the Towne but the eight and twentieth day falling out extreame windie and rainy wee were enforced to cease our battery and spent the rest of the day in drawing downe to that place some other pieces formerly planted vpon the first platforme The foresaid eight and twenty in the morning we sent a Trumpet to summon Kinsale who was not suffered to enter the Towne but receiued his
the corrupt disposition of some Captaines and for want of good discipline in our forces great frauds were committed as well to vs in not keeping the full numbers by vs allowed as also to the souldiers in detaining their wages or part thereof from them which deceits without good caution now to be vsed may be againe renewed We doe therefore expect that you shall establish so good a course of discipline for the ordering of our Bands in this point as that wee shall not be hereafter abused in decaies of our numbers as heretofore we haue beene which you shall neuer so well preuent nor alien mens minds from like frauds as by insticting notorious and exemplary punishments vpon Captaines and Officers when their faults in this kind shall appeare to be notorious not onely by casting them out of our pay but by degrading and other notes of ignominy which in military discipline are vsed to be iustly done to men who by their shamelesse actions doe not onely bring shame to their profession but to the publike seruices notable impediments and in a manner an euident treachery And as this first change of payment in apparell to be paid in money had his first motion from you our Deputy and the principall Captaines and Officers of the Army in which you now note perill if the exchange bee not maintained As it is true that that must be supported by vs and shal be so we know none must preuent the Captaines taking of pay for their soldiers apparell and not bestowing it but your selfe of whose care and iudgement we haue great reason to assure our selues both for your loue to our seruice and your own Honor. The second point which we recommend vnto you is the due execution of our former Proclamations touching this matter of the exchange and the assistance of the Master of our exchange and his Ministers therein to the end that all frauds discouered of late to haue been vsed hy Merchants who abuse our Princely intention therein for their priuate gaine may be remedied and therein chiefly that the vse of all monies descried may be taken away from the people of that Countrey and withall sterling money may bee brought into our Exchange vpon such conditions as our Proclamations containe For that wee doe find that our intent in the erection of this new Coyne can no way so soone take place as by withdrawing all other monies from them whereby the Rebels may exercise trafficke with forraigne Nations and by them be relieued wherefore you may adde to the remedies in our said Proclamations mentioned any other good meanes that in your indgements shall be thought meete to be be vsed and publish the same by Proclamation in our name or aduertise vs of your conceit to the end you may haue warrant frō vs to do that which we shal think meet to be done therein Further we haue thought good to admonish you that forasmuch as the winter apparell already deliuered to the souldier wil not bee run out vntill the fourteenth day of May inclusiue And that it is likely seeing you know already that we purposed to take away the deliuery of apparell you haue furnished the Companies in Lieu thereof with some money by way of imprests whereby it may fall out that we shall be double charged Therefore you our Deputy shall take order with our Treasurer that vpon the halfe yeeres full pay to be ended at Michaelmas next defalcation be made of so much as any Companies shall haue receiued betweene the first of Aprill and the fifteenth of May aboue their weekely lendings if so much shall be then ouer paied to any Company Giuen vnder our signet at our Mannor of Greenewich the eight and twentieth of Aprill in the foure and fortieth yeere of our Raigne In the beginning of Iune the Lord Deputy hauing gathered the forces together tooke the field and marched vp to Blackewater to the passage which he had the last yeere discouered to be most conuenient to carry her Maiesties Forces that way into the heart of Tyrone At this passage lying some fiue miles Eastward from the fort of Blackewater his Lordship incamped on the South side of the Riuer hauing a small pace or skirt of wood betweene him and the Riuer of which pace he had the yeere before cut downe many trees so as at this time the passage was soone cleered Hence his Lordship sent Sir Richard Moryson with his Regiment to possesse the North side of the Riuer for securing of the Armies passage against any attempt of the Rebels Thus the Queenes forces being entered into Tyrone there incamped and his Lordship spent some time in causing a bridge to be built ouer the Riuer and a fort adioining to guard the passage which of his owne Christian name was called Charlemount and left Captaine Toby Cawfield with his Company being one hundred and fifty to command the same From the Campe the Countrey was plaine and open to Dungannon being distant some sixe miles and while these workes were in hand we might see the Towne of Dungannon and Tyrones chiefe House there seated to be set on fier whereby it was apparant that Tyrone with his forces meant to flie and quit those parts So as the Lord Deputy sent S r Richard Moryson with his regiment to possesse Dungannon whether his Lordship soone after marched with the rest of the forces By this time Sir Henry Dockwra Gouernour of the Forces about Loughfoyle hauing planted many garrisous in those parts had lately planted a garrison at Omy being some twelue miles distant from Dungannon whence he came with his forces and met the Lord Deputy at Dungannon Thus the Lord Deputy hauing driuen the Archtraitor out of his owne Countrey as high as the Castle Row vpon the Ban sent out some parties to spoile and prey the Countrey as farre as Eniskillin vpon Lough Erne Then he tooke some of Tyrones strongest Ilands namely one wherein he had a strong Fort where we recouered three peeces of her Maiesties artillery and another Iland called Magherlowni which next Dungannon was the chiefe place of his aboade and Magazins for his warre From Dungannon the Lord Deputy sent Sir Richard Moryson with fiue hundred foot to meet Sir Arthur Chichester who came with his forces from Carickfergus and was to passe Loughsidney and land within few miles of Dungannon where they being met did according to the Lord Deputies direction begin to raise a Fort. In the meane time the Lord Deputy hauing vtterly banished all Tirones partakers out of those parts marched fiue miles from Dungannon to Loughsidney where Sir Arthur Chichester lay with his forces and his Lordship encamped there till he had made the Fort defencible to containe aboue one thousand foot and one hundred horse which were to be victualed from Carickfergus by the way of the said Lough This Fort of his Lordships Barrony he called Mountioy and made Sir Bentamin Berry his Lieftenant and now one of the Colonels of the
the horses of our English troopes and they dying thereupon to bee readie to teare out one anothers throate for a share of them And no spectacle was more frequent in the Ditches of Townes and especiallie in wasted Countries then to see multitudes of these poore people dead with their mouthes all coloured greene by eating nettles docks and all things they could rend vp aboue ground These and very many like lamentable effects followed their rebellion and no doubt the Rebels had been vtterly destroyed by famine had not a generall peace shortly followed Tyrones submission besides mercy formerly extended to many others by which the Rebels had liberty to seeke reliefe among the subiects of Ireland and to be transported into England and France where great multitudes of them liued for some yeeres after the peace made The fourth of March the Lord Deputy receiued letters from Sir Henry Dockwra aduertising many vehement suspitions of Sir Neale Garues disloial purposes namely his vnderhand putting Mac Swyne to goe againe into rebellion and to take an Iland of his which was a fit place to set vp a new rebellion and also his making a storchouse of Armes with extraordinary prouisions of them Further he aduertised that himself vsed all meanes to keepe Tyrone in the Glynnes where hee now was till his Lordship came vp which iourney he aduised to bee in the beginning of the next moneth but vnderstanding that within few daies hee would remoue towards Fermanagh howsoeuer the English there at that time were weake yet he would lye for the Arch-rebel on his way to Omy or Agher not doubting but in the passage of those Plaines hee should haue some opportunity of fighting with him and at the least to take good part of his prey from him Lastly he aduertised that he had razed Hen. Ouingtons Castle and Mac Hugbes Iland which both had been neasts and starting holes for theeues The fifteenth of March the Lord Deputy left Dublin and rode towards the Northerne borders where his Lordship with his rotinue lay to and fro the remaining few dayes of this yeere and part of the beginning of the next till Tyrone was receiued to mercy and the war ended to the end his Lordship being in those parts might giue life to the present seruice as wel of the forces sent to prosecute Ororke as of the Garrisons lying in waite for all aduantages vpon Tyrone himselfe and his broken partakers Touching Mounster affaires in the yeere 1602 the Lord Deputy at his comming frō Corke caused Sir Ric. Percy to be sworne Counsellor for the Prouince of Mounster and in his iournall towards Cillkenny Knighted three Irish men Iohn Fitz Edmonds and two Citizens of Watterford Edward Gough and Richard Aylward The Lord President at Killkenny tooke his leaue of the Lord Deputy and making short Iourneys by reason he was sickly came not to Corke till the third of Aprill 1602. When the Spaniards by composition were to render the Castels in the West O Swilliuan Beare had surprised his Castle of Donboy in Beerehauen from the Spaniards where of some were killed in the surprisall which freed them from suspition to haue yeelded it voluntarily contrary to the composition This strong Castle vpon an excellent hauen O Swilliuan kept for the King of Spaine hauing sixty Warders with him at first and three pieces of Spanish Ordinance The Lord President meaning to take this Castle tooke the field the 23 of Aprill and after many attempts vpon the Rebels in which some of them were killed and some taken and executed and many preyes taken by parties sent out it was resolued the fourteenth of May to passe the forces ouer to an Iland called the great Iland that way to march to Beerehauen the way thither by land being vnpassable for the victuals and carriages besides many places of aduantage in the Mountaines where the Rebels though few in number might distresse a great Army and easily forbid their passage Here by the sea side the Foote staied for the ships carrying the Victuals Munition and Ordinance which were detained by contrary winds till the last of May. The sixth of Iune the forces were ferried ouer to the land neere Castle Dermot where they incamped and though they landed in another part then the Rebels expected who lay there to hinder and impeach their landing yet the Rebels hasted to them to begin the skirmish with them when they were in good order and almost had all passed the Ferry so as the Rebels hauing no aduantage in this fight they left 28 dead in the place and had more then 30 wounded whereof Captaine Tirrel was one being slightly hurt in the belly and some were taken prisoners whereas on our part onely seuen were hurt The tenth of Iune our forces hauing landed their Ordinance incamped within musket shot of the Castle of Donboy but not within the sight of the Castle a rising ground lying betweene the Campe and the Castle so as the great shot from the Castle flew ouer the Campe without doing any hurt The twelfth a Fort within the Hand of Dorses kept by the Rebels was surprized by the English and all the Rebels killed or hanged and therein were taken three Iron Peeces of Spanish Ordinance The 17 of Iune after two daies battery the English assaulted the breach and possessed part of the Castle Dunboy the Rebels keeping and defending the rest all that day and night and great part of the next at which time the English were by force made full Masters of it The Rebels defending it were 134 selected Souldiers and all of them were killed in the Castle or seeking to flie or being prisoners were executed in the campe except twelue men of chiefe accompt and most esteemed by Tyrrell which were kept to be examined vpon torture or to worke some good for the seruice with Tyrrell by the sauing of their liues Of Spanish Ordinance there was taken one Demy Culuerin two Sakers and one Falcon of brasse and two Sakers fiue Minions and one Falcon of Iron The Gunners were Italians and Spaniards who perished with the rest nine barrels of powder taken in the Castle were imploied to blow it vp left any Spaniards or Rebels might after make vse of it This Castle taken the Lord President returned to Corke where Sir Samuell Bagnoll attended his comming with letters from the Lord Deputy and according to his Lordships directions the Lord President sent by him 1500 Foote being aboue the old Mounsterlyst who came with these Forces to the Lord Deputy the 29 of Iuly and brought letters from the Lord President aduertising the aboue mentioned confident expectation of a second Spanish inuasion At the same time Sir Edward Wingfield was landed at Corke bringing to the Lord President 500 foote for supplies of the weake Companies Sir Charles Wilmott Gouernour of Kerry wherein were many prouinciall Rebels besides 1000 strangers to helpe them had before the siege of Dunboy prosecuted Mac Morris cleered Kerry of all Rebels
it aboundeth with Wood but towards the Sea they burne Turfe made of earth and also burne Cow dung 3 The County of Hanaw hath the Principality of Arscot vnited to the Dukedome of Brabant by which the Dukes sonne hath the title of Prince The chiefe Cities of this County are Mons and Valinciennes It hath mines yeelding Leade and Marble of many colours and a good kind of Coales 4 The County of Zeland is by situation the first of the Vnited Prouinces consisting of many Ilands whereof seuen are principall and the chiefe is Walcherne the chiefe Citie whereof is Midleburg famous for trafficke and the Staple for Spanish and French Wines Neere that is the City Vlishing strongly fortified being the chiefe of the Forts then ingaged to the Crowne of England and kept by an English Garrison vnder the command of Sir Robert Sidney Knight for the second Fort ingaged to England lyes in another Iland and is called Brill being then kept by an English Garrison vnder the command of the Lord Barrows All these Ilands are fertile and yeeld excellent Corne more plentifully then any other Prouince so as one aker thereof is said to yeeld double to an aker of Brabant But they haue no sweete water nor good aire and for want of wood burne turffe They take plenty of sea-fishes which they Salt and carry into other Countries Madder for dying of wooll growes there plentifully which likewise they export and grow rich by selling these commodities as likewise Spanish and French Salt and like trafficke 5 The County of Holland called of old Battauia and inhabited by the Chatti as Tacitus writes is in situation the second of the vnited Prouinces but the first in dignity The Cities whereof are Amstelrodam famous for trafficke Rhoterodam where Erasmus was borne Leyden an Vniuersity Harlem Dort the staple for the Rhenish Wines and Delph all very faire Cities And I may not omit the most pleasant Village of the Hage called Grauenhage because the Counts Court was there and it is now the seate of the vnited States wanting onely wals to make it numbred among the most pleasant Cities being no doubt a Village yeelding to none for the pleasant seat This Prouince doth so abound with lakes pooles of water and artificiall ditches as it giues passage by water as well as by land to euery City and poorest Village which are infinite in number And these ditches itoweth for the most part to the Riuer Rheine For the Rheine of old running towards Leyden did fall a little below it into the Sea but at this day by reason the Land is low and subiect to ouerflowings it hath changed the bed and at Lobecum in the Dukedome of Cleue deuides it selfe into many branches The first runnes to Arnheim a City of Gelderland then to Vaua Rena and Battouodurum where Lecca receiues his waters and takes away the name from the Rheine yet so as a little branch thereof still holds the name of Rheine which running to Mastricht there deuides into two one whereof fals into Vecta and so into an arme of the Sea neere Munda the other runnes by Woerden and after a long course necre Leyden is deuided into fiue little branches whereof three fall into a lake and the fourth turnes to Renoburg and leeseth it selfe in mountaines of sand neere the Village Catwicke I remember that the water falling through Leyden is called Rheine so as I thinke it probable that all the standing waters lying betweene the seuerall pastures there come from the Rheine after it hath lost the name I said that the Rheine at Battouodurum is called Lecca which runnes to Culenburg and to Viana where in a ditch is the fountaine of Isala which runnes to 〈◊〉 Thus to omit the little branch at Battouodurum the first branch of the Rheine is lost in the Riuers Lecca and Isala The second branch bends from Lobecum to Neomagum and fals into the Brooke Meroutus taking the name of the old Family of Kings among the Gals where is an old Castle compassed with the Brooke and of the same name then running to Dort in Holland it receiues the foresaid Lecca and Isala and so neere Rhoterodame fals into the Mosa and vnder that name fals neere Brill into the German Sea The third branch of the Rheine running from Lobecum within two miles of Arnheime fals into the ditch of Drusus or rather of Germanicus and so runnes to Dewsborows the City of Drusus where it receiues the old Isala springing in Westphalia and by the name of Isala or Isell running to Zutphane and then to Deuentry fals into Tatus at Amstelrodame and by an arme of the Sea is carried to West-Freesland and so fals into the German Sea neere the Iland Flye 5 To returne to my purpose Holland is little in circuite but abounds with people and dwellings and being poore of it selfe is most rich by industrie and wanting both Wine and Corne yet furnisheth many Nations with both Neither Wooll nor Flax grow there but of both brought in to them they make linnen clothes much prised and also Woollen both carried to the very Indies I need not speake of Holland Cheeses so vulgarly knowne and much esteemed Lastly Holland is famous for the traffique of all commodities and the Romans so highly esteemed the Fortitude and faithfulnes of the old Battani as they had a Band of them for their Guard 6 The County of Zutphane is accompted part of Gelderland and subdued by the States Arinie was ioyned to the vnited Prouinces in the yeere 1591. 7 The County of Namures so called of the Cheese Citie hath Mines of Iron and plenty of stony Coale contrarie to all other Coales in that it is quenched by the infusion of Oyle It hath also an ill smell which they take away by the sprinckling of Salt and it burnes more cleere hauing water cast vpon it This County hath also quarries of Free-stone and of Marble of diuers colours 8 The Dukedome of Luxenburg hath the name of the chiefe Citie and the inhabitants of the vpper part are Germanes but they of the lower parts are like the French in language and Manners 9 The Dukedom of Brabant hath faire Cities namely Antwerp most famous before the ciuil War because Maximilian of Austria brought thither frō Bruges in Flanders the famous traffique of all Nations by a ditch drawne to Sluce onely to bee failed vpon at the flowing of the Sea tides At this day forsaken of Merchants it lies ouergrowne with grasse and the said trafficke inricheth Holland and the vnited Prouinces The next City is Brissell of old the seate of the Dukes and now of the Spanish Gouernours Then Louan a famous Vniuersity Then Mechlin subiect to the vnited States Then Bergen-ap-zome a fortified City at this time committed to the custody of Sir Thomas Morgan Knight with an English Garrison The Inhabitants of this Dukedome were of old called Tungri 10 The Dukedome of Limburg hath Mastricht for the chiefe City
warme their beere till it haue a froth yet doe they not vse these night drinkings so frequently nor with such excesse as the Germans doe I remember that hauing beene at Sea in a great storme of wind thunder and lightning about the moneth of Nouember when such stormes are rare and being very wearie and sad I landed at Dockam in West-Freesland where at that time some yong Gentleweomen of that Countrey passing through that City towards Groning according to the fashion of those parts we did eate at an ordinary Table and after supper sat downe by the fier drinking one to the other where after our storme at Sea the custome of Freesland did somewhat recreate vs For if a woman drinke to a man the custome is that shee must bring him the Cup and kisse him he not mouing his feete nor scarcely his head to meete her and men drinking to them are tied to the like by custome A stranger would at first sight maruell at this custome and more specially that their very husbands should take it for a disgrace and be apt to quarrell with a man for omitting this ceremony towards their wiues yet they interpret this 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 as if they iudged their wiues to be so foule or infamous or at least 〈◊〉 as they 〈◊〉 them vnworthy of that courtesie In the first Book of this third Part and in the Iournall of the first Part I haue particularly set downe the rates of expences for 〈◊〉 through those parts They greatly esteeme English Beere either for the 〈◊〉 wine or indeed the goodnes thereof and I haue obserued some in their cups thus to magnifie it English Beere English verstant English beare makes an English wit So in the Sea townes of England they sing this English rime 〈◊〉 of mutton and English Beere make the Flemmings tarry here They say that there be 〈◊〉 brewers at 〈◊〉 and there they imitate the English Beere and call that kind Delphs English But with no cost could they euer make as good as the English is though they prouided to haue English Brewers either by reason of the difference of the waters or rather as by experience I haue found because our Beere carried ouer Sea whereby it worke a new and goes a better fauour doth drinke much better then that we haue at home They say that of old there were more then 700 brewers at Torgaw till vpon the water 〈◊〉 or corrupted they forsooke that place It is not lawful to sel Rhenish wine and French white wine in the same tauerne lest they should be mixed but one man may sell French 〈◊〉 wine and Rhenish wine which cannot well be mixed without being 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 And for the same cause they may not sel in one place diuers lands of the same country wine and of the same colour The Netherlanders vse lesse excesse in drinking 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Saxons and more then other Germans And if you aske a woman for 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 she takes it for an honest excuse to say he is drunken and sleepes But I will truly say that for euery day drinking though it bee farre from sobernesse yet it is not with so great excesse as the Saxons vse neither in tauerns where they and specially the common sort most meet and in priuate feasts at home doe they vse so great excesse as the Saxons Neither doe drunken men reele in the streets of Netherland so frequently as they do in those of Saxony Only I did once see not without astonishment a man of honorable condition as it seemed by his apparrell of Veluet and many rings on his fingers who lay groueing on the ground close by the carte rutt of the high-way with two seruants distending his cloake betweene the Sun and him and when wee lighted from our waggon to behold more neerely this spectacle thinking the man to be killed or sore wounded his seruants made signes vnto vs that wee should not trouble him who was onely drunken and would be well assoone as he had slept a little At this we much wondred and went on our iourney At feasts they haue a fashion to put a Capons rump in the saltseller to contend who shall deserue it by drinking most for it The best sort at feasts for a frolike will change hats whereby it happens that Gallants shal weare a Burgers cap and a Burger an hat with a feather crying Tousfoiz a mode de Liege All fooles after the fashion of Liege Some wanting companions to drinke lay down their hat or cloke for a companion so playing thēselues both parts of drinking to pledging till they haue no more sence or vse of reason then the cloke or 〈◊〉 hath Lastly all bargaines contracts solemnities whatsoeuer are done in 〈◊〉 caps The longitude of Denmark and Norway extends 8 degrees and a 〈◊〉 from the Meridian of 27 degrees and a halfe to that of 36 degrees And the latitude extends 10 degrees from the paralell of 58 degrees to that of 68 degrees The Kingdome of Denmark is diuided into sixe parts Finmark Norway Gothia Scandia Seland and Iutland 1 Finmark reacheth towards the North beyond the Artick circle to the Castle Warthouse and therefore must needs be desart and barren 2 Norway in the Germans tongue signifies the way to the North and it is so large as of old it had and still retaineth the name of a Kingdome and towards Finmark it reacheth to the Artick circle The Cities are named 〈◊〉 not farre from the narrow Sea called Der Soundt and Nidrosia formerly called Trondia lying vpon the same sea and Bergis the seate of a Bishop and Solzburg a Citie of traffick In Norway they catch great store of Stockfish which they beate with cudgels and dry with cold and great store of a fish from the Greeke word called Plaise for the bredth thereof and they sell great quantity of this fish to the German Cities vpon the sea which they keep to feede the people in case the cities should be besieged 3 The Iland Gothia is annexed to the Crowne of Denmark yet the Succians tooke it in our time but the Danes recouered it againe Histories report that the Gothes came out of this Iland yet old Writers vnder the name of Scandia containe all the tract of the neck of Land lying from the Hyperborian Sea betweene the Northerne Ocean and the Bodick Gulfe from whence it is more probable that the Gothes came out then onely from this little Iland who after seated themselues vpon the Euxine sea and the banke of Danow and from thence made incursions vpon the Roman Empire And hereupon the said tract containing not onely Scandia and Gothia but all Norway and Suecia was by old Writers called the shop and sheath of Nations The Iland Gothia yeelds the rich Furres called Sabels 4 The Iland Scandia is also called Scondia and Scandinauia and Schonlandia that is faire land the beauty whereof the Danes highly extoll and for the firtiltie preferre it to Sealand though it passe the
and goe on foot or send a seruant to meate them But since the same Vetturines will also offer a passenger to agree with him in like fort for his owne diet surely as I haue said in the Chapter of the manner to take iournies the passenger is in ill case that is dieted by them neither would I aduise any so to doe except onely in the way from Rome to Naples and backe againe where a passenger in such a tumultuary iourney and by reason of that old custome should otherwise be worse entreated Lastly a passenger shall doe wisely especially at nighe to goe to the best Inne and of most fame that he may be more safe from the losse of his money or hazard of his life The Italians hold it a great shame to be drunken they sometimes salute one another with a cup in manner of a health but leaue it to his pleasure when he will pledge them and then he salutes him that drunke to him as well as him to whom he drinkes saying Faccie ragione a vos ' signoria brindisia vos Signoria Sir I pledge you and I drink to you Sir The word Brindisi comes of the Dutch phrase Ich brings each I will bring it to you vsed when they drinke to any man and this shewes the custome is borrowed from the Germans and vsed by the obsequious Italians to please them yet abhorring from drunkennesse so pleasing to the Germans Italy yeeldes excellent Wines and the common red wine is held very nourishing so as the fairest Weomen will diue with the same and a sop of bread dipped in it thinking it will make them fat which kind of Women the Venetians most loue all things else being equall yea and more faire So as they Prouerbially say Chibeue branco piscta bianco a chi beue rosso auanza il colore He that drinkes white pisses white he that drinkes red gaines the colour These are the most famous Wines of Italy 〈◊〉 di Christe the teare of Christ and like wines neere Cinqueterre in Liguria La 〈◊〉 and the white Muskadine especially that of Montefiaschoni in Toscany Cecubum and Falernum in the Kingdome of Naples and Prosecho in Histria In generall the grapes that grow high vpon Elme-trees in the plaine as in Lombardy especially the grapes of Modena yeeld very small Wines but those that grow vpon hils and mountaines resting on short stakes yeeld very rich Wines In the shops where they sell Muskadines there be continually boyes attending with little wigges of sweete bread and Iunkets which the Italians dip in the wine and hauing thus broke their fasts in winter time they commonly eate no more till supper The third Booke CHAP. I. Of the Geographicall description of Turkey the Situation Fertility Trafficke and Diet. THE Longitude of Turkey extends fifty fiue degrees and a halfe from the meridian of forty foure degrees and a halfe to that of an hundred degrees and the Latitude extends forty degrees from the Paralell of tenne degrees to that of fifty degrees The Prouinces of this Empire in Europe are thus numbered Illyris Albania Epirus Gracia Macedonia Thessalia Thracia Mysia Dacia or I ransiluania Hungaria and the Ilands vnder him that lie in Europe 1 Illyris a part of Sclauonia is subiect partlv to the Turkes partly to the House of Austria the chiefe Cities whereof are Zara which together with the territory thereof the Turkes tooke from the Venetians the rest of the Prouince being still subiect to the House of Austria and Scordona lying vpon the Sea as doth the former City and all the Prouince Also Croatia vulgarly Cranaten and of old called Liburnia belongs to this Prouince 2 Albania hath these knowne Cities Dirachium vulgarly Dorazzo of old called Epidaurus and Vallona 3 Epirus hath these Townes Chimera Meiandria Butrinto Cestrina and Nicopolis Of old part of Epirus was called Acarnania Of the roiall blood of this Prouince was Alexander Scanderbeg who brought vp in the Great Turkes Court and vpon occasion falling from him did so much trouble that vast Empire 4 Gracia was of old diuided into Peloponesus and Helles Peloponesus of old called Aiggealia Appta and Pelasgia is at this day named Morea and it is a Chersonelus that is a necke of Land almost an Iland onely ioined to the continent with an Isthmus that is a narrow peece of Land The rest is compassed with the Sea and was of old diuided into Sutionium which hath the Cities Sution and Carinthus Argo'is which hath the Cities Argos and Neapolis Achaia or Elis whereof the chiefe City was Elis and Arcadia whose chiefe Townes are Psofis and Arcomenus And here the Riuer Emaus or Erimanthus springeth and ioyning with the Brooke Alpheus fals into the gulfe of Arcadia Also the Riuer Inachus springs in the Mountaine Parthenius and fals into the gulfe of Neapolis Moreouer Peloponesus hath a fifth Prouince called Lacedemonta or Laconia whereof the chiefe City was Lacedemon or Sparta most famous of old The sixth Prouince is Messena in which is the City Metona now called Modon The straight necke of Land ioyning Peloponesus to the Continent was against the Turkes fortified with a wall by the Christians but the Turkes cast downe the wall and tooke all the Prouince Helles or Achaia the second Prouince of Greece containes Attica Megaris Boetia Phocis Regio Locrorum and AEtolis Attica is more famous then the rest in which was the famous City Athens Megaris is a small Region the chiefe City whereof was Megaria in which Euclides was borne Boetia is a very large Region so called of an Oxe leading Cadmus thither who built the Boetian Thebes so called for difference from nine other Cities called Thebes The Mountaines Thermopula deriued from the Mountaines Acroceraunij lying vpon Epirus deuide Greece from the West to the East as the Apenninediuides Italy and the famous mountaines Otris Pelion and Ossa are parts thereof Of old Aulis was a famous City of Boetia in which Iphigenia Daughter to Agamemnon was sacrificed Phocis is a small Region the townes whereof were Elatea and Delphis seated at the foot of the Mountaine Parnassus hauing the Temple of Apollo not in the Towne but vpon a Rocke of the Mountaine where springs the Castalian Fountaine sacred to the Muses and the Mount Helicon lies neere the same The Region of the Locri is small and the chiefe City is now called Lepanto Of old a people called Pieres comming out of Thrace dwelt vnder Farnassus of whem it was called the Pierian Mountaine and the Muses were called Pierides Doris pertaines to the Region of the Locri and the chiefe City is Doricum whence came the Doric Dialect The last Prouince of Helles and of all Greece is AEtolia deuided from Eptrus by the Riuer Achelons falling from the Mount Pindus and the chiefe Townes thereof are Naupactus now called Lepanto neere the gulfe whereof the Christian Nauy vnder the commaud of Don Iuan of Austria gaue a famous ouerthrow to the Turkish Nauy
in our Age. The other City is called Chaledon whence was the Chaledonian Boare sung of the Poets 5 The fifth Prouince of Turky is Macedonia of old called Migdonia and Emathea the chiefe City whereof is Thessalonica vulgarly now called Saloniche to the Citizens whereof S. Paul wrote his Epistle The Mountains of this Prouince Olimpus Pelion Ossa are famous by the fables of the Giants Athos is fained to passe the clouds with his top 6. The lower part of Macedonia is called Thessalia or AEmonia of Thessalus the son of AEmon or as others say of Iason the chiefe Towne whereof was Pharsalos whose fields are famous by the victory of Caesar against Pompey 7 Thracia hath faire Cities Trimontium of old called Poneropolis and Philippopolis Adrianopolis and the head City Constantinopolis of old called Bysantium now Stambol seated vpon the Bosphorus of Thracia It hath famous Mountaines Rhodope Mela and Ismarus Vpon Propontis the Thracian Chersonesus or necke of Land lies vpon the Hellespont in which are the Townes Sesto and Callipolis 8 The vpper Mista is deuided into three parts Rascia Bosnia and Seruia and the lower Misia into three parts Bulgaria Wallachia and Moldauia In Bulgaria the Riuer Danubius beginnes to be called Isther which fals into the Euxine Sea with foure strong and three lesser channels 9 Dacia or Transiluania was of old possessed by the Saxons who there built seuen Cities or Castles of which the Prouince is called Septem-Castrensis vulgarly Sieben burgen and of old it belonged to the Kingdome of Hungary but at this day is tributary to the Turks 10 Hungaria so called of the people Hunnt was of old called Fannonia the lower and of right belongs to the German Emperour but of late the Turkes haue subdued the greater part thereof It hath many and strongly fortified Cities as Debrezinum Varadinum Segedinum vulgarly Seget Castrum taken by the Turkes Strigonium vulgarly 〈◊〉 taken by the Turkes in the yeere 1543 Alba Regalis at that time also taken by them Quinquecclesiae the feate of the Bishop Buda seated vpon the Danow twice or thrice taken and regained on both sides of old the Kings seate called vulgarly Offen and Pesta seated on the other side of Danow vulgarly called New offen The Hungarian Nation yeelds to none in strength and courage not vnlike the Scithians in language and manners 11 The Ilands of Europe in the Ionian Sea are these Corcira vulgarly Corfu Cephalania and Zaintos in Latin Zacinthus vulgarly now called Zante all three subiect to the Venetians All the Ilands in the AEgean Sea are subiect to the Turke being innumerable among them are the Cyclades so called because they lie round together the chiefe whereof are Cytnos Cyphnos vulgarly Sifano Parus now called Paris famous for the Marble Tenos now called Tenasa Naxus Andros and Delos the chiefe of all where Apollo and Diana were borne Next them are the Sporades so called of lying dispersed among which are Melos Lera Nicaria AEgina and Lemnos vulgarly Stalemine whether they fable that Vulcane was cast downe The Iland Ibea now vulgarly Negroponte is attributed to Greece being separated from the continent with so little distance as it can hardly be named an Iland and it lies close to the City of Athens The Turke hath great part of Asia deuided into Asia the lesser and Asia the greater The lesser is now called Natolia or Anatolia of a Greeke word signifying the East being a kinde of Isthmus or necke of land lying betweene two Seas the Euxine towards the North and the Mediterranean towards the South as it hath the Thracian Bosphorus as passable by an Oxe swimming and Propontis as lying before the Sea and Hellespont the AEgean Sea towards the West and is confined with the Riuer Euphrates towards the East This lesser Asia is all subiect to the Turk and hath 16. Prouinces Bithinia Fōtus Paphlagonia Capadocia Gallatia Frigia the greater lesser Misia Ionia Charia Lidia Pamphilia Lacaonia Licia Cilicia the lesser Armenia Chomagena 1 Bithinia is at this day called Migtonia and the chiefe Cities thereof are Nicea the Metropolitan Citie famous for the Councell in the yeere 314. of 318. Bishops meeting to beat downe the Arrian heresie and there making the Nicene Creed Lybissa where Hannibal was buried Chalcedo where one of the eight olde Councels was held by 530 Bishops Heraclia Nicomedia Phrasso where Esculapius was born and Bursa seated ouer against Constantinople where some Turkish Emperours lye buried and thither the great Turkes eldest sonne is sent to gouerne or in a kinde of exile for he neuer sees his Father more till he be dead and thither he is sent assoone as hee is circumcised 2. Some accompt Pontus for part of Bithinia 3. Paphlagonia is the third Prouince 4. Capadocia the fourth so called of the Riuer Capadocis and the chiefe Citie is Trapesuntium now called Genech And here the Amazones are said to haue liued from the destruction of Troy to the time of Alexander the Great 5 Frigia the lesser was called Frixis of Frixus sonne to the King of Thebes flying with his sister frō his stepmother who moūted on a Ramm with a golden Fleece perhaps a Ship so called his sister being drowned giuing the name to Hellespont and he came himself to this part of Asia which at this day is called Palormi yeelds a most excellent Wine and in this Prouince are Illium or Troy the Mountaines Ida and Tinolus and the Riuer Pactolus The ninth Sybilla that prophesied of Christ was a Frigian and here raigned King Tantalus by couetousnesse leesing the vse of his goods of whom the Poets so fable The greater Frigia is within Land 6 The chiefe Cities of Misia are Traianopolis built by Traian and Adramitbium whereof mentiou is made in the seuenteenth Chapter of the Acts of the Apostles and where Gallene was borne who liued 140 yeeres 7 Gallatia or Gallogrecia was possessed by the Gals vnder Brennus whereof the chiefe City is Laodicia and to this Prouince belongs Pisidia the chiefe City whereof is Antiochia 8 The chiefe Cities of Ionia are Ephesus where was the Temple of Diana which Erostrates a Gothe did burne to be famous Miletum where Thales and Anaximines were borne Smyrna 9 The chiefe City of Charia was of old Halicarnassus in which was the Sepulcher of Mausolius the King held for one of the seuen miracles of the World 10 The chiefe City of Lydia was Sardis where Craesus raigned 11 The chiefe City of Pamphilia was Zelotia and in this Prouince is the Mountaine Chimera vpon the wild top whereof Lyons were found as in the middle part yeelding grasse Goates did feed and in the bottome were Serpents whereof came the fiction of the Monster 12 In Lacaonia of old were these cities Iconium Metrapolitan Lysire where Timothy Saint Pauls Disciple was borne and the Riuer Xanthus runnes through this Prouince 13 Licia lies vpō the Sea between Pamphilia Charia 14 Cylicia lies vnder
is more famous then any other in this Prouince whose Region called Saba is celebrated for plenty of Franckensence and it hath woods of Trees which being cut yeeld a frothy humour that turnes into that odour The Cities of happy Arabia are 〈◊〉 Tolnaby that is the City of the Prophet because Mahomet is said to haue written his Alcorane there and Mecha famous by Mahomets Sepulcher The Kingdome of Ormus is part of happy Arabia hauing a peculiar King but tributary to the King of Spain as he is King of Portugall the Metrapolitane City whereof rich in trade is called Ormus 3 Babilonia the third part of the Turkish Empire in Asia hath the metrapolitane City of old called by the same name but in these dayes called Bagdet 4 Chaldea the fourth part lies on the East side of Babilonia whereof the chiefe City is called Vhrr in the Scriptures from whence Abraham vpon Gods commandement went to Haran a City of Mesapitania 5 Assiria the fifth part is so called of Assur the sonne of Shem whereof the chiefe Cities are Ninus called Niniue in the Scriptures the old seate of the Kings built by Assur and Aruela famous by the victory of Alexander the Great against Darius the Persian King 6 The Ilands of Asia are the sixth part of the Turkish Empire in Asia the greater and they lie either in the Mediterranean Sea or in the Archipelagus or in the Indian Seas In the Mediterranean Sea lies Candia of old called Creta famous of old for hauing one hundred Cities and by the labyrinth of Daedalus and it was called Creta of the Earths whitenesse from whence great quantity of Muskadine Wines are exported into diuers parts of Europe and it is subiect to the State of Venice Rhodes lieth in the same Sea and was of old famous for the residence of the Knights of Hierusalem but at this day is possessed by the Turkes driuing out those Knights who now haue their residence in Malta an Iland neere that of Sicily Cyprus is an Iland in the same Sea and is most fertile yeelding Canes of Hony whence Suger is made and rich Wines and aboundiug with many things required for life and for pleasure and this Iland the Turks in the last Age took from the Venetians by force of Armes the chiefe Cities whereof are Famagosta and Nicosia The Archipelagus hath innumerable Ilands whereof the principall and most fruitfull are Tenedos small in circuit but famovs by the Nauy of the Greekes harbouring there at the siege of Troy Lesbos Lemnos Mitelene at this day called Metalon of the chiefe City Samnus of old called Sicania where Hypocrates was borne and Chios now called Zio more esteemed then any of the rest for the Marble Malmesey wine Masticke the iuyce or gumme of the tree called Lentiscus and no lesse for the many rich commodities it yeelds then for the goodnes and largenes of the soyle The Ilands of the Indian Sea belong not to the Turkes and therefore I will omit them The Turkish Empire stretcheth it selfe yet farther containing great part of Affrica which by the Grecians was called Libia and the word in the Greek tongue signifying horror and cold gaue the name to Africa as being void of cold The Mountaine Atlas in Affrick as Taurus in Asia which in some parts is called Caucasus and Imaus as the Mountaines of Europe are generally called the Alpes doth diuide this Countrie into many parts stretching it selfe towards the East and so forward to Nilus which parts or Prouinces are knowne by these names Mauritanta Affrica the lesser Syrenaica Marmarica AEgyptus Lybia AEthiopia the Regions vnder the Mountaines of Luna and the Ilands 1 Mauritania Tingitana containes two Kingdomes Fessa whereof the King of Spaine holds som part and Morcco subiect to the Turkes Of old it had these townes Tingis Metropolitane and Luxon neere which are the Gardens Hesperides which the Poets fable to haue Aples and trees of gold At this day the two chiefe Cities are called Fessa and Morocco At the Straight Sea betweene Spaine and Affricke the mountaines Abila in Affrick and Calpa in Spaine are of that forme as men would iudge they were once ioyned whereupon the Poets fable that Hercules deuided them and did let in the Ocean and so made the Mediterranean sea and for this cause the Straight is called the narrow Sea of Hercules and the Pillars of Hercules were erected on Affrickes side which the Emperour Charles the fifth added to his Coate of Armes Mauritania Caesariensis was also called Numidia for the people being rich in Cattell and dwelling in Tents and when they had eaten the grasse of one place then remouing to another were of their pastures called Nomades and after changing a letter became to bee named Numidae 2 Affrica the lesse a most fertile Region of old is at this day called the Kingdome of Tunis and the chiefe Citis are Hippon Metropolitan where Saint Austin was Bishop Vtica renowned for hauing Cato a Citizen Carthage where Tertullian was borne Tunis at this day chiefe Madaura where Lucius Apuleius was borne and Iacapa where the Vines are said to yeeld Grapes twise in the yeere The Brooke Rubricatus is famous for the Serpent killed there by Attilius Regulus in the time of the first Punike warre The quick-sands or sholes of the Sea adioyning are much feared of Marriners lying sometimes deepe sometimes shallow as the sands are driuen into diuers parts by diuers winds blowing and stormes and they are two The lesse not farre from Carthage the greater towards Syrenaica At this day all this Sea-coast is called Barbary and is subiect to the Turkish Ottoman 3 Sirenaica hath the name of the chiefe Citie Syrene which of old had emulation for greatnesse with Carthage and therein were borne Aristippus the Philosopher Calimachus the Poet and Eratostines the Mathematician and assome say Symon who carried the Crosse of Christ. 4 Marmarica is sandy and of old therein was the Temple of Iupiter called Hammon of the sands and these two Prouinces are annexed to Egypt 5 Egypt is most fertile the very garner of the vniuersall World and famous for the antiquitie of the Kingdome The vpper part thereof was called Thebais the lower towards the Mediterranean Sea was called Deltica of the letter Delta The Cities thereof no lesse famous in these dayes then of old are these Alexandria built by Alexander the great at the mouth of the Riuer Nilus whose body there buried was seene by Augustus and heere Ptolomy was borne who did gather in this Citie the famous Library of seuen hundred thousand volumes which were all consumed by fier The next chiefe Citie is Canopus where stood the Temple of Syrapis or Osyris Then Pelusium at this day called Damiata seated vpon the mouth of Nilus called Pelusium Lastly the chiefe Citie of all is Babylon built by the Babylonians permitted to dwell there which at this day is hugely increased and is called Alcaiero that is This Caiero from whence some fortie
stadia distant towards the North lye the three famous Pyramides Three dayes iourney towards the East in a Garden called Matarta being well fortified of old grew and still growes the hearb Balsamum sweating Balsam out of the boughes and being cut with a knife yeelding the more precious Opobalsamum and at this day the same is found euen at Caiero in the Gardens of the richer sort They say also that Corrall is found in the Red Sea I had almost omitted the Citie Arsinoe also called the Citie of the Crocodiles because the Crocodile was there worshipped Nilus falles into the Mediterranean Sea in seuen great Armes which haue the names of the adiacent Townes namely Heracleoticum or canopicum Boluiticum Sebamticum Patinicum Mendesium Caniticum and Pelusiacum the first and the last whereof are one hundred and seuenty miles distant one from the other The Nilus doth yeerely ouerflow and thereby giues incredible fertility to the ground and the snow melting vpon the Mountaines of Luna or the constellation of the Moone and Mercury are thought to bee causes of this ouerflowing And the same happening to bee greater or lesse then vsuall or comming later or sooner then vsuall is a signe of dearth to them whereof Pliny saith that Egypt in twelue cubites height of the floud feeleth famine atthirteene cubites is hungry but that fourteene makes them merry fifteene safe and sixteene brings plenty and dainties It is strange that all other Riuers eating and consuming their bankes Nilus rather increaseth them by bringing with it a mud that couers the sand and doth as it were dung the fields to make them more fertill In sixty dayes after the floud the fields are cleare of water The floud increaseth from the Summer Solstice to the Suns entring into Libra and after the water retires into his owne bed About the twelfth of October they sow their fields and in May following reape their haruest Egypt with the Prouinces belonging to it hath long been subdued by the Turkes 6 Lybia hath diuers Prouinces Biledurgeret that is the Region of Dates is inhabited by the black Getuli From thence towards the Riuer Niger lye the Deserts of Lybia waste and full of Lyons Pardes and other fierce and venemous beasts whereof came the fictions of Medusa and Persues The inhabitants of Atsanaga are of a colour betweene tawny and blacke At the Promontory called the white Cape is the Citie called Argen where the Arabians and Portugalls trade together At the Promontory called the greene Cape the Riuer Niger falles into the Atlantick Ocean and the inhabitants are called Nigrite This tract containes many Kingdomes namely Senige Gambrey Tambot Guangara where the Garamantes dwelt of old two Kingdoms of Nubia and other Kingdomes which I omit as subiect to their Kings or to Pretz Ian and so not belonging to our purpose 7 AEthiopia is diuided by Nilus into inward and outward Inwad AEthiopia is diuided by old Writers into AEthiopia properly so called Trogloditica and Barbaria and in the middes thereof is the Iland Meroe made by Nilus in which was a City called Meroe the seate of the old Kings after called Saba whence was the queene which came to Salomon and the Eunuch of Queene Candaces whom Philip baptized The Troglodites liue in caues of the earth and their kingdom is at this day called Adel. Barbaria extends eight degrees beyond the AEquator from the promontory called Capo di 〈◊〉 to the Gulfe of Barbary and was so called of old The outward AEthiopia is called AEgisimba by Ptolomy and containes the Kingdome of Amatzen and of Vangue seated vnder the AEquinoctiall line All AEthiopia and part of Libia are said to bee subiect to Pretz Ian therefore I say no more of them nor of the Kingdomes vnder the Mountaines of Luna as pertaining not to my purpose 8 Onely of the many Prouinces vnder the Mountaines of Luna beyond the Equinoctiall line I will adde that the inhabitants of Capo dibuona speranza the cape of good hope are exceeding blacke and nothing different from the AEthiopians and Lybians though they haue a greater latitude by thirtie degrees towards the South equall to the latitude of the farthest part of Spaine and liue vnder the temperate Zone 9 The greatest Iland of Affrick called Madagascar by the inhabitants and Saint Laurence by the Spaniards is of the Mahometan Religion and is said to abound with the medicinall wood Santalum with Amber and Elephants The Canary Ilands called of old the fortunate Ilands are sixe or more as some write in number whereof Canaria the greatest gaue the name to the rest which are subiect to the King of Spaine as are likewise the Hesperides little Ilands seated ouer against the greene Cape The Turkish Emperour hath to my knowledge no other I le of Affricke vnder him The Turkish Empire being so vast and containing great part of Europe Asia and Affrick the temper of the aire can not bee otherwise described then by particular parts thereof But out of the description of this Empire in the iournall of the first Part and by comparing the particular Prouinces with others of the same longitude and latitude and by the fruits and exported commodities here to be mentioned the temper of the ayre may bee knowne or at least coniectured more easily To this purpose I will onely adde that I landing in Palestine about the end of May found their wheate haruest almost inned and in the Hauen of Ioppa bought about a thousand Abricots for sixe Aspers And the yeere following when I sailed from Constantinople towards Italy that about the middst of March I did eate pease and other pulse in the Greeke Ilands Lastly in Palestine Cyprus and those parts partly I vnderstood by others partly I found by experience that it seldome raines and that about September and October onely and not often at that time but so violently for the time as if it would beate downe the very houses falling as it were by palefulls at once and that the fields are watred with night dewes at the fall whereof no man stirres out of dores but with his head well couered for danger of sicknesse all men vsing to keepe in the house till the dew be dried while in the meane time by day the heate is so excessiue as a man can hardly indure his apparrell though it be of linnen or silke if it hang not loose but be close about him The fertilitie of the soyle generally through this Empire is exceeding great and the goodnesse and varietie of the fruits equalleth and in some places passeth Italy The wines of Greete of Mount Libanus and especially of Palormo in Natolia are exceeding rich and good Yet haue the Turkes lesse plenty of all things then Europe for they very sparingly and onely to serue necessity either set plant or sow great part of the people being wasted with warres and they that remaine hauing not free fruition of their owne goods in the great tyranny vnder which they liue aswell
numbers of Silke-wormes especially at Tripoli and in most parts of Asia which make great quantitie of Silke as I formerly said in the discourse of Italy yet they sell this Silke raw and vnwonen and buy of the Venetians the foresaid clothes made of their owne silke so as the silkewormes may well be said to bee more diligent and more to promote the publike good then the inhabitants for they swarming in all Gardens diligentlie finish their web while the idle inhabitants yeeld the commoditie thereof to strangers The Venetians also export from Turkey Spices and Apothecary wares and great quantitie of the Dye called Indico They export Galles Cotten wooll Cotton threads Chamlets or Grograms made of the finest haires of Goates not sheared but pulled off from their backes and wouen in Galatia a Prouince of the lesser Asia They export Turkey Carpets Goates skinnes wrought and died into diuers colours The English bring to the Turkes Kersies wrought and dyed of diuers colours and kinds but they bring little Broad-cloth wherewith they are aboundantlie furnished from Venice They also bring to them Tinne and blacke Conni-skinnes in such quantitic as the Turkes admiring the same a Frenchman merily taxing our womens affabilitie said that in England there was such plenty of Connyes and they so tame as they were taken in the Tauerns The English export from them Spices and Apothecary wares for the Trade into the East Indies was not then set vp they also export the foresaid commodities raw silke Indico and other precious Dyes of Scarlet Purple and the like Galles Mastick growing onely in the Iland Zio Cotton and the thread thereof Turkey Carpets for tables Chamlets Grograms of Goates haire The Merchants comming to Constantinople hardly find there any commodities to export therefore the English ships hauing vnladed there saile empty to Alexandretta and there receiue the commodities of Haleppo Againe the Italians who bring much gold and siluer to Haleppo for the commodities there to bee sold doe againe receiue gold and siluer for such commodities as they bring to Constantinople and carry the same backe to Venice The English lying at the Ilands of Zant and Cephalonia subiect to the Venetians and at Petrasso seated in the Gulfe of Corinth and subiect to the great Turke export Corrands others from Algier a Port of Barbary export Sugar others from the Iland Candia subiect to the Venetians export Muskadines and others from diuers Ilands export earthen dishes and vessels painted which for the purenesse are much esteemed and vsed in Italy and in our parts Northward The swords of Damasco are famous for the mettall piercing iron and cutting a naile in pieces but the exportation of them is forbidden though out Christians supply the Turkes with all warlike munitions which they might shame to haue particularly named in this discourse of traffick The precious Orientall commodities of Persia and the East Indies haue made the Trade of Turkish Cities to bee famous namely their spices and rich dies and Iewels which notwithstanding the Turkes haue in part of their owne For I formerly said that Arabia yeelds Frankinsence Mirrh Cinnamon and Iewels and AEgypt yeeldes Balsam and Opobalsam the more precious gumme of the Balmetree in great quantity omitting many commodities which besides they haue of these kinds I speake not of Thessalonica a City of Macedonia now called Saloniche nor other Hauens and Cities of trafficke in Greece as being of lesse moment All the precious traffick of Turkey by reason of the inhabitants slothfulnesse is in the hands of lewes and of Christians and was long in the sole hands of the Venetians but the French in the age past and the English in our age haue had as I may say a traffickiug league with the Turkes and so partake that trade And these three States onely not to speake of the Germans who at this time had warre with the Turkes and neuer saile so farre to exercise trafficke among so many States of Christians haue their Ambassadours at the Turkish Court And if any other Christians arriue in that Empire as the Flemmings often doe they vsed at this time to come vnder the Banner of one of these three Nations The Reader must vnderstand that when I was in Turkey the English and Flemmings had not as yet begun their traffick in the East Indies which is like to destroy the trafficke in Turkey bringing many rich commodities from the well head For their dyet the Turkes liue sparingly I had said slouenly but that I remembred their frequent bathings and washings and the curious clenlinesse of the linnen and all other clothes which they weare but I will bee bold to say they feede negligently and without any pompe or magnificence The richer sort doe fit at meate like Tailors with their knees bended vpon carpets or vpon the grasse when they eate by Riuers sides and in Gardens as they doe more frequently then in the house And their table is so low as they may well reach to it sitting vpon the ground About this table they cast a long towell to wipe their hands but passengers by the high-way and generally the ordinary sort of Turkes vse grasse in stead of this towell Others carry about a table of leather coloured red or yellow which table shuts and opens like a purse and vpon it they can set but one dish at once it hanging hollow vpon certaine buckels Commonly they eate by the high-way vpon the ground and alwaies with their knees bended like our Taylors They seeth their meat till it be very tender so as they may breake it with theit fingers for they haue no kniues neither haue they variety of dishes set before them but all sitting in a circle fall vpon one dish Taking meat they all together say a short prayer or grace and talke not whilest they eate but silently fall hard to their worke They haue aboundance of all things for foode aswell of flesh excepting swines-flesh as of birds and other meates but they abstaine from fish They haue plenty of Corne at least sufficient for their temperate dyet which is exceeding good and farre bigger then ours They are ignorant of the Arts of birding fouling hunting or cookery and hauing no lasciuicus apetite prouoking them to gluttony are content with simple meates Their sobrietie in this kind cannot sufficiently be commended and since their greatest men can bee content to feede on rice and drinke water it is no maruell that with ease they keepe great Armies in the field All the Turkish housholdstuffe is contained in one poore pot to seeth meate in one spoone of wood one cup of leather or wood to drinke in a poore bed or matresse yea often a single couerled alone and the earth serues them for bedsteed table and stooles They haue no neede of a troope of cookes and scullions to dresse meate and make cleane dishes They willingly eate curds turned sower and mingled with bread and water commonly called Mishmish and fresh cheese or curds
betweene Roane and Diepe called Totes and in like sort in all the Innes of those parts before the ciuill warre assoone as passengers lighted from their horses the Hoast gaue them water to wash and bread and wine for the French haue not the patience to expect their supper without some refection Then at supper the table was serued with Mutton a Capon or Pullet Patridges and like meates with a kind of banquet as in Summer Apples Cherries and Grapes and in Winter Chessenuts Rice Raysons and stewed Prunes Then they gaue their guests cleane sheetes drying them at the fier in their presence and in the morning gaue them for breakfast some buttered tostes or motsell of meate and for all this together with horsemeate each man paid some twenty two or twenty fiue soulz as likewise the bating at noone for horse and man cost each some ten soulz After the ciuill warre I passed through these parts and commonly each meale paid twelue or fifteene soulz with worse interertainment and for breakefasts paid seuerally but no great rate Towards the confines of Flanders the Hoasts onely couer the table and a side table vpon which euerie passenger hath his glasse for the French are curious not to drinke in another mans cup and the Hoasts are onely to bee paid for this seruice Otherwise at times of eating they call the Cookes dwelling neere the Innes who bring the best meates they haue and when the guests haue chosen their meate and agreed for the price they carry it backe to dresse it and so send it warme with sawces In generall through the Cities of France passengers seldome dine at their Innes but with some companions goe to the Tauernes or Cookes shops but at night they must eate with the Hoast that giues them beds where they shall haue cleane sheetes and see them dried before their faces but they are of course cloth and very few chambers are priuate but most haue three or foure beds wherein they lye not single but for the most part with bedfellowes Also the guests as well Merchants and Gentlemen as those of common sort eate at an ordinary table and for supper commonly large with diuers roasted meates each man payes some fifteene soulz He that hiers a chamber in Cities which he may haue well furnished at Paris for some two Crownes a moneth he must buy his meate at Cookes shops which are frequent and very cleanly neither is it any disgrace as with vs to buy a morsell of meate there and to agree for the price before it bee eaten And they that hier chambers can haue no better conueniency for diet either at Paris or in other Cities But hee that stayes long in a Citie may agree in a Citizens house or an Inne for his diet and lodging by the yeere which hee may haue at Paris in extraordinary sort for some one hundred fifty Crownes yeerely and ordinarily for lesse and at Rone for one hundred twenty or one hundred Crownes and in many Cities for eighty Crownes and in many good Innes for sixty Crownes yeerely Drunkennesse is reprochfull among the French and the greater part drinke water mingled with wine and alwaies French wines not Sacke or Spanish wines which are sold as Phisicke onely by Apothecaries or other forraigne Wines whereof I remember not to haue seene any in the Northerne parts of France Yet Marriners Souldiers and many of the common sort vsed to drinke Perry and Syder to very drunkennes yea I haue seene many drink wine with like intemperance and when these kinds of men sit at drinking they vse much mirth and singing in which art they take great delight as the French in generall are by nature chearefull and liuely Women for the most part and virgins alwaies except by stealth they offend against the custome vse to drinke water except it be in the Prouinces yeelding Perry and Syder which all sorts vse to drinke without exception And at Paris I remember to haue seene a poore woman to beg a cup of water which being giuen her she drunke it off and went away merily as if she had receiued a good almes CHAP. III. Of England touching the particular subiects of the first Chapter THE Longitude of England extends nine degrees and a halfe from the meridian of thirteene degrees and a halfe to that of twenty three degrees and the latitude extends fixe degrees from the paralell of fifty degrees and a halfe to that of fifty sixe degrees and a halfe Learned Camden whom I gladly follow in this description of England makes the circuite of all Britany to be one thousand eight hundred thirty six miles This is the most famous Iland of all the World and is diuided into two Kingdomes that of England and that of Scotland England is subeuided into diuers Counties or Shyres and Ilands 1 In the description whereof I will first begin with Cornmall of old inhabited by the Danmonij It is for the most part a Mountanous Country but the soyle is not vnfirtile besides that the people incredibly fatten the same with laying vpon it the owes of the Sea called Orwood and a certaine mud The Sea coast as Camden writeth whom I follow is beautified with very many Townes which haue much shipping The inward parts abound with a rich vaine of Mettals where wonderfull quantitie of most pure Tinne is digged vp and not onely Tinne but Gold and Siluer with it and Dyamonds formed into Angles by nature it selfe which we call Cornish Dyamonds Eringo grows plentifully all along the Sea side and with great labour of the Husbandman they haue such aboundance of Corne as great quantity of wheate is yeerely exported thence into Spaine Also the inhabitants make great gaine by the fishing of Pilchards which they salt and drie in the smoke and export an huge multitude of them yeerely into Spaine and Italy Here is the famous Mount Michael of old called Dinsol and by the inhabitants the Rock Cana. This Rocke is somewhat high and craggy vpon the top whereof is a Chappell dedicated to Michael the Arch-Angell The Towne Falemouth hath a faire Hauen capeable of very many shippes and most safe from stormes where the Rockes doe fortifie two Castles built by Henry the eight and this Hauen is by Ptolomy called Ostium Cenionis 2 Deuonshire likewise inhabited by the Danmonij hath fairer Hauens being no lesse rich in the vaines of Tinne and beautified with frequent Townes In no part of England the ground requireth more expence for in many places it is barren till it bee fatted with the Owes or sand of the Sea which makes it wonderfully fruitfull but in the remotest parts from the Sea this sand is dearely bought The Riuer Plimus giues the name to the Towne Plimmouth of old called Sutton which grew from a fishers Village to a faire Towne by the commoditie of the Hauen being most safe euen for great ships as well in the said Riuer as in another called Tamera Not farre from thence is the
Dancasler are well knowne but of all other Hallifax is most famous for the Priuiledges and the rare Law by which any one found in open theft is without delay beheaded and boasteth that Iohn de sacrobosco of the Holy Wood who writ of the Sphere was borne there Wakefield is a famous Towne for making Woollen cloth Pontfreit named of the broken bridge is a towne fairely built and hath a Castle as stately built as any can be named Neere the little Village Towton are the very Pharsalian fields of England which did neuer see in any other place so great Forces and so many Nobles in Armes as here in the yeere 1461 when in the ciuill warres the faction of Yorke in one battell killed fiue and thirty thousand of the Lancastrian faction Neere the Castle Knarshorow is the Fountaine called Droppingwell because the waters distill by drops from the rockes into which any wood being cast it hath been obserued that in short space it is couered with a stony rinde and hardens to a stone Rippen had a most flourishing Monastery where was the most famous needle of the Archbishop Wilfred It was a narrow hole by which the chastity of women was tried the chaste easily passing through in but others being detained and held fast I know not by what miracle or art Neare the little towne Barrobridge is a place where stand foure Pyramides the Trophces of the Romans but of 〈◊〉 workmanship Yorke the chiefe Citie of the Brigantes is the second of all England and the seate of an Archbishop The Emperour Constantius Chlorus died there and there begat his sonne Constantine the great of his first wife Helena whereof may be gathered how much this scare of the Emperours flourished in those daies By a Pall or Archbishops cloake sent from Pope Honorius it was made a Metropolitan Citie ouer twelue Bishops in England and al the Bishops of Scotland but some fiue hundred yeeres past all Scotland fell from this Metropolitan feare and it selfe hath so deuoured the next Bishoprickes as now it onely hath primacy ouer foure English Bishops of Durham of Chester of Carlile and the Bishop of the I le of man Henry the eight did here institute a Councell as he did also in Wales not vnlike the Parliaments of France to giue arbitrary iustice to the Northerne inhabitants consisting of a President Counsellors as many as the King shall please to appoint a Secretary c. Hull a well knowne Citie of trade lyes vpon the Riuer Humber where they make great gaine of the Iseland fish called Stockfish Vpon the very tongue called Spurnchead of the Promontory which Ptolomy calles Ocellum vulgarly called Holdernesse is a place famous by the landing of Henry the fourth Scarborrough is a famous Castle where in the sea is great fishing of Herrings 48 Richmondshire had of old the same inhabitants and the Mountaines plentifully yeeld leade pit-coales and some brasse vpon the tops whereof stones are found which haue the figures of shelfishes and other fishes of the neighboring sea Neare the Brookes Helbechs as infernal are great heards of Goates Fallow and Red-Deare and Harts notable for their greatnesse and the spreading of their hornes Richmond is the chiefe Citie of the County 49 The Bishoprick of Durham had of old the same inhabitants and the land is very gratefull to the plower striuing to passe his labour in fruitfulnesse It is pleasant in Meadowes Pastures and groues and yeelds great plenty of digged Coales called Sea-coales The Bishops were of old Counts Palatine and had their royall rightes so as Traytors goods sell to them not to the Kings Edward the first tooke away these priuiledges and Edward the sixth dissolued the Bishopricke till Queene Mary restored all to the Church which it inioies to this day but the Bishop in Queene Elizabeths time challenging the goods of the Earle of Westmerland rebelling the Parliament interposed the authority therof and for the time iudged those goods to be confiscated towards the Queenes charge in subduing those Rebels Durham is the chiefe City of that County 50 Lancashire had of old the same inhabitants and hath the title of a Palatinate Manchester an old towne faire and wel inhabited rich in the trade of making woollen cloth is beautified by the Market-place the Church and Colledge and the clothes called Manchester Cottons are vulgarly knowne Vpon the Sea-coast they power water vpon heapes of sand till it get saltnesse and then by seething it make white Salt There be some quicksands wherein footemen are in danger to be wrecked especially at the mouth of Cocarus Lancaster the chiefe Towne hath the name of the Riuer Lone The Dukes of this County obtained the Crowne of England and Henrie the seuenth Duke of Lancaster vnited this Dutchy to the Crowne instituting a Court of Officers to administer the same namely a Chauncelor of the Dutchy an Attorny a Receiuer a Clarke of the Court sixe Assistants a Pursuiuant two Auditors twenty three Receiuers and three ouerseers 51 Westmerland had of old the same inhabitants and Kendale the chiefe Towne well inhabited is famous for making of woollen cloth 52 Cumberland had of old the same inhabitants and hath mines of Brasse and vaines of siluer in all parts yeelding blacke leade vsed to draw black lines Carleile a very ancient City is the seate of a Bishop In this County still appeare the ruines of a wall which the Romans built to keepe out the Pictes from making incursions being so poore as they cared not to subdue them And the Emperike Surgeons that is of experience without learning of Scotland come yeerely to those fields of the borders to gather hearbs good to heale wounds and planted there by the bordering souldiers of the Romans the vertue of which herbs they wonderfully extoll 53 Northumberland was of old inhabited by the Ottadini and the inhabitants of our time now exercising themselues in warre against the Scots now resisting their incursions vpon these borders are very warlike and excellent light Horsemen In very many places this County yeelds great quantity of Sea coales Newcastle is a faire and rich City well fortified against the incursions of the bordering Scots whence aboundance of Sea coales is transported into many parts Barwicke is the last and best fortified Towne of all Britany in which a Garrison of Souldiers was maintained against the incursions of the Scots till the happy Raigne of Iames King of England and Scotland To describe breefly the Ilands of England In the narrow Sea into which the Seuerne fals are two little Ilands 1 Fatholme and 2 Stepholme and the 3 Iland Barry which gaue the name to the Lord Barry in Ireland There is also the 4 Iland Caldey and that of 5 Londay much more large hauing a little Towne of the same name and belonging to Deuonshire On the side vpon Pembrookeshire are the Ilands 6 Gresholme 7 Stockholme and 8 Scalmey yeelding grasse and wild thime Then Northward followes 9 Lymen called Ramsey by
the English and Saint Dauids Ilands right ouer against the seate of the Bishop of Saint Dauy. Next is the 10 Iland called Enhly by the Welsh Britans and Berdsey as the I le of Birds by the English wherein they report that twenty thousand Saints lie buried Next lies 11 Mona that is the shadowed or dusky Iland which after many yeeres being conquered by the English was by them called Anglesey as the Iland of the English It is a most noble Iland the old seate of the Druides Priests so called of old and so fruitfull as it is vulgarly called the Mother of Wales the cheefe Towne whereof is Beaumarish Neere that lies 12 Prestholme that is the Priests Iland whereof the Inhabitants and Neighbours make incredible reports for the multitude of Sea Fowle there breeding Next followes 13 Mona or Monoeda as the farther Mona which we call the I le of Man the Inhabitants whereof are like the Irish in language and manners but haue something of the Norway men It yeeldes abundantly Flaxe and Hempe hath pleasant Pastures and Groues and is fruitfull of Barly Wheate and especially of Oates the people feeding on Oaten bread in all parts are multitudes of Cattle but it wants wood and for fier vseth a kind of Turffe Russia which of the Castle we call Castle-Towne is the cheefe Towne and hath a Garrison of Souldiers but Duglas is the most frequented and best inhabited Towne because it hath an excellent Hauen easie to be entered In the Westerne part Bala-curi is the seate of the Bishop vnder the primacy of the Archbishop of Yorke and there is the Fort called the Pyle wherein a garrison of Souldiers is kept Vpon the Southerne Promontory lies a little Iland called the Calfe of Man which aboundeth with Sea Birds called Puffins and a kind of Duckes engendered of rotten wood which the English call Barnacles In generall the Inhabitants haue their proper Tongue and Lawes and had their proper Coyne They abhorre from stealing and from begging and are wonderfully religious generally and most readily conforming themselues at this day to the Church of England and the people in the Northerne part speake like Scots and in the Southerne part like Irish. Edwin King of Northumberland subdued the Northerne people and subiected them to the Crowne of England yet with many changes of Fortune this Iland long had their owne Kings euen since the Normans conquered England and since the time that Iohn King of England passing into Ireland by the way subdued this Iland about the yeere 1210 till the Kingdome came to the Scots in the yeere 1266. After that time Mary the daughter of Reginald the last laid claime to the Iland before the King of England as supreme Lord of Scotland and when sheecould not preuaile William Montague her Kinseman tooke the Iland of Man by force which his Heire sold for a great summe of money in the yeere 1393 to William Scroope who being beheaded for Treason the Iland fell by right to Henry the fourth King of England who assigned the same to Henry Pearcy Earle of Northumberland with prouiso that he and his Heires at the coronation of the Kings of England should carry the Sword vulgarly called Lancaster Sword before the King but the same Persey being also killed in ciuill warre the King gaue that Iland to Stanlye from whom discend the Earles of Darby who kept the same till Ferdinand Earle of Darby dying without heire male and the Earledome falling to his Brother but this Iland to his Daughters as Heires generall Queene Elizabeth thinking it vnfit that Women should bee set ouer her Souldiers there in garrison gaue the keeping thereof to Sir Thomas Gerrard But King Iames the foureteenth of August in the fifth yeere of his Raigne granted by Letters Pattents this Iland with all things thereunto appertaining to Henry Earle of Northampton and Robert Earle of Saltsbury their Heires and Assignes for euer they vpon doing homage for the same presenting his Maiesty with two Falcons and his Heires and Successours at their Coronation in like sort with two Falcons And howsoeuer no vse or intent of this grant be mentioned in these Letters Pattents yet no doubt the grant was made to the vse of those vpon whose humble petition to his Maiesty the Letters Pattents were granted as therein is expressely declared namely of William Lord Stanly Earle of Darby heire male to Iohn Lord Stanly and of Elizabeth Countesse of Huntington Anne wife to the Lord Chandois and Francis wife to Sir Iohn Egerton Knight being the Heires generall of the said Iohn Lord Stanly The famous Riuer Thames fals into the German Ocean ouer against Zeland and before it fals into the same makes the 14 Iland Canuey vpon the Coast of Essex so low as it is often ouerflowed all but some higher hils to which the sheepe retire being some foure thousand in number the flesh whereof is of delicate taste and they are milked by young men Neere that is the 15 Iland Sheppey so called of the sheepe wherein is Quinborrough a most faire Castle kept by a Constable Without the mouth of Thames lie the shelfes or sands dangerous to Sea men which of the greatest are all called Goodwin sands where they say an Iland the patrimony of the same Earle Goodwinn was deuoured by the Sea in the yeere 1097. In the Britan Sea lies the 16 I le of Wight hauing in the Sea most plentifull fishing and the Land being so fruitfull as they export Corne besides that in all parts it hath plenty of Conies Hares Partridges and Feasanes and hath also two Parkes of Fallow Deare Also the sheepe feeding there vpon the pleasant hils yeeld wool in goodnesse next to the Fleeces of Lemster and Cotswold Flockes It hath sixe and thirty Townes and Castles and the Ecclesiasticall Iurisdiction thereof belongs to the Bishop of Wintchester Towards the West lie other Ilands pretented to be French but subiect to England namely 17 Gerzey whither condemned men were of old banished 18 Garnsey neither so great nor so fruitful but hauing a more commodious Hauen vpon which lies the Towne of Saint Peter both Ilands burne a weede of the Sea or Sea coales brought out of England and both speake the French Language I omit the seuen Iles called Siadae and others adioyning and will onely adde that the Ilands lie neere Cornewall which the Greekes called Hesperides the English call Silly and the Netherlanders call Sorlings being in number some 145 more or lesse whereof some yeeld Wheate all abound with Conies Cranes Swannes Hirnshawes and other Sea Birdes The greatest of them is called Saint Mary and hath a Castle wherein Souldiers lie in Garrison committed in our time to the keeping of Sir Francis Godolphin and after to his sonne Sir William Godolphin being of a noble Family in Cornewall Also many of the said Ilands haue vaines of Tynne and from hence was Leade first carried into Greece and the Roman Emperours banished condemned men hither to
worke in the Mines of mettall The ayre of England is temperate but thicke cloudy and misty and Caesar witnesseth that the cold is not so piercing in England as in France For the Sunne draweth vp the vapours of the Sea which compasseth the Iland and distills them vpon the earth in frequent showers of raine so that frosts are somewhat rare and howsoeuer Snow may often fall in the Winter time yet in the Southerne parts especially it seldome lies long on the ground Also the coole blasts of Sea winds mittigate the heat of Summer By reason of this temper Lawrell and Rosemary flourish all Winter especially in the Southerne parts and in Summer time England yeelds Abricots plentifully Muske melons in good quantity and Figges in some places all which ripen well and happily imitate the taste and goodnesse of the same fruites in Italy And by the same reason all beasts bring forth their young in the open fields euen in the time of Winter and England hath such aboundance of Apples Peares Cherries and Plummes such variety of them and so good in all respects as no countrie yeelds more or better for which the Italians would gladly exchange their Citrons and Oranges But vpon the Sea coast the winds many times blast the fraites in the very flower The English are so naturally inclined to pleasure as there is no Countrie wherein the Gentlemen and Lords haue so many and large Parkes onely reserued for the pleasure of hunting or where all sorts of men alot so much ground about their houses for pleasure of Gardens and Orchards The very Grapes especially towards the South and Westare of a pleasant taste and I haue said that in some Countries as in Glostershire they made Wine of old which no doubt many parts would yeeld at this day but that the inhabitants forbeare to plant Vines aswell because they are serued plentifully and at a good rate with French wines as for that the hilles most fit to beare Grapes yeeld more commoditie by feeding of Sheepe and Cattell Caesar writes in his Commentaries that Britany yeelds white Leade within land and Iron vpon the Sea-coasts No doubt England hath vnexhaustible vaines of both and also of Tinne and yeelds great quantitie of Brasse and of Allom and Iron and abounds with quarries of Free-stone and Fountaines of most pure Salt and I formerly said that it yeelds some quantity of Siluer and that the Tinne and Leade is mingled with Siluer but so as it doth not largely quit the cost of the labour in seperating or trying it Two Cities yeeld medicinall Baths namely Buxstone and Bathe and the waters of Bathe especially haue great vertue in many diseases England abounds with Sea-coales vpon the Sea-coast and with Pit coales within land But the Woods at this day are rather frequent and pleasant then vast being exhausted for fier and with Iron-milles so as the quantity of wood and charcoale for fier is much deminished in respect of the old abundance and in some places as in the Fennes they burne Turffe and the very dung of Cowes Yet in the meane time England exports great quantity of Seacoale to forraine parts In like sort England hath infinite quantity as of Mettalls so of Wooll and of VVoollen cloathes to be exported The English Beere is famous in Netherland and lower Germany which is made of Barley and Hops for England yeelds plenty of Hops howsoeuer they also vse Flemish Hops The Cities of lower Germany vpon the sea forbid the publike selling of English Beere to satisfie their owne brewers yet priuately swallow it like Nectar But in Netherland great and incredible quantity thereof is spent England abounds with corne which they may transport when a quarter in some places containing sixe in others eight bushels is sold for twenty shillings or vnder and this corne not onely serues England but also serued the English Army in the ciuil warres of Ireland at which time they also exported great quantity thereof into forraigne parts and by Gods mercy England scarce once in ten yeeres needes supply of forraigne Corne which want commonly proceeds of the couetousnesse of priuate men exporting or hiding it Yet I must confesse that daily this plenty of Corne decreaseth by reason that priuate men finding greater commoditie in feeding of Sheepe and Cattell then in the Plough requiring the hands of many seruants can by no Law be restrained from turning corne fields into inclosed Pastures especially since great men are the first to breake these Lawes England abounds with all kinds of foule aswell of the Sea as of the land and hath more tame Swannes swimming in the Riuers then I did see in any other part It hath multitudes of hurtfull birds as Crowes Rauens and Kytes and they labor not to destroy the Crowes consuming great quantity of Corne because they feede on wormes and other things hurting the Corne. And in great Cities it is forbidden to kill Kytes or Rauens because they deuoure the filth of the streetes England hath very great plenty of Sea and Riuer fish especiallie aboue all other parts abundance of Oysters Makrell and Herrings and the English are very industrous in fishing though nothing comparable to the Flemmings therein The English export into Italy great quantity of red Herrings with gaine of two or three for one not to speake in this place of other commodities which they export with great gaine and in this fishing they are very industrious as well in the Sea vpon the coasts as in the Northerne Ilands To conclude they export in great quantity all kinds of salted fishes and those dried in the smoke and pickled as Pilchards Poore Iohn Cauiale Botargo and the like which they sell in Italy and those parts at a deare rate England abounds with pulse of all kinds and yeelds great quantitie of Saffron and of Flax wherof they haue also great quantitie frō Dantzke whence also they haue like plentie of Pitch and of Firre trees for Masts of ships which two things if England wanted not I durst say that this Iland or part of an Iland abounds with all things necessary for honest clothing large and dainty feeding and for warre by land and sea As for warre it hath not onely the aforesaid mettalls but also great quantity of Salt-peter Besides the famous Broad cloth it yeelds for clothing many Stuffes whereof great quantitie is also exported And I will not omit that howsoeuer it hath silke from forraigne parts yet the English silke stockings are much to bee preferred before those of Italy Spaine or any part in the World England abounds in Cattell of all kinds and particularly hath very great Oxen the flesh whereof is so tender as no meate is more desired The Cowes are also great with large vdders yeelding plenty of Whitmeates no part in the World yeelding greater variety nor better of that kind And the hides of Oxen are contrary to the common good exported in great quantity by vniustifiable licenses though
take it in good part as the guift of a poore gentleman and nothing lesse then an Indian Merchant as they suspected This house called Lazaretto was built of free stone with Cellers for the laying vp of goods and had pleasant walks both in the yard and garden and the Keeper of this house had furnished me with a bed and all necessaries and for the seuen daies past had bought vs our meat in the City which he would likewise haue dressed but that my seruant was a Cooke and for this seruice he had done I gaue him also a zechine Then we went into the Citie lodged with an Italian who had oftē brought vs meat and necessaries to the Lazaretto and with him my selfe and my seruant had conuenient beds and plentifull diet for which I paid sixe lyres each day But the horsemen who conducted vs to Candia came often to me and for that seruice I gaue to each of them a zechine and by them I vnderstood the prices of the Market for diet So as all the Candians speaking Italian aswell as their naturall Greeke tongae and I finding the rate of our expences to bee excessiue I determined to hier a chamber and to buy my owne meate in the Market But it happened that at the same time an English Merchant landed who was a Factor to buy Muskedines of Candia whereof and especially of red Muskedint there is great plenty in this Iland and this Merchant called Richard Darson being wel acquainted with the best courses of liuing in Candia had hired a little house and a woman to dresse his meate and at my intreaty he was content to giue vs a chamber in his house and to hier vs two beds that so we might dyet together where he vsed vs very curteously and our dyet was as plentifull as before at a far lower rate diuiding our expences into three parts whereof he paied one and myselfe two for my owne and my seruante diet There was at that time great dearth of Corne so as white bread was hardly to be got though the Italians making their meales for the most part of bread vse to haue it very white and good Here we bought a Bocale of rich Wine containing two English quarts and a halfe for a lire of Venice a Pigion for 7 soldi a Partridge for a lire or 16 soldi a pound of veale for 7 soldi of mutton for some 5 soldi we had plentie of fruits for a small price The Beefe in Italy vseth to be leane and is seldome eaten and such beefe they had here for by the Law called Foscherini it is commaunded that no man shall kill a beefe till it be vnfit to draw in the Plough and to doe like seruice Here I paid foure lires for a paire of shooes the rest of my expences I omit for brenitie sake those sufficing to giue a passenger some guesse at what rate he may liue Onely I will adde that the worke of Porters and labouring men as well in Italy as here is had for small wages because there is great number of poore people and they abhorre from begging so as one soldo contents a Porter for bringing your victuals from the Market When I went to Ierusalem and sailed by the Iland of Candia I made some mention thereof and I haue now formerly set downe the length breadth and circuit and the distance thereof from other Prouinces and haue shewed that Candia is subiect to the Venetians and haue also named the chiefe Gouernours thereof for that time I will now briefely adde that this Iland is defended by a Venetian Garrison against the Great Turke to whom all the adiacent Countries are subiect That it hath great plentie of red Muskedines where with England for the most part is serued That it hath great plentie of all kinds of Corne of all manner of Pulse of Oyle of all kinds of flesh of Canes of sugar of Hony of Cedar trees of all coloured Dyings of Cypres trees where of many sweete smelling Chests are made and carried into forraine parts and of all necessaries for human life Neither is any venemous beast found in this Iland but it hath store of medicinable hearbs especially vpon the famous Mountaine Ida. The Cities of this Iland were of old one hundred and in the time of Pliny fortie but at this day there bee onely three namely Canea at the West ende of the Iland neere which lies the Fort Sonda with a Hauen capable of a thousand Gallies The second called Retbino by the Italians seated on the South-side of the Iland vpon which side the Italians adde a fourth Citie called Settia and the third called Candia the Metropolitan Citie of the Iland which is faire and large built of stone with a low roofe after the manner of Italy and the streets thereof are faire and large It is strongly fortified as need requires by the Venetians against the Turkes and to that purpose hath a strong Castle From this Citie a large and pleasant Plaine leades to the foresaid caue of Mines which the Candians call the Sepulcher of Iupiter neere which is the most famous Mountaine Ida which they hold to bee seated in the middest of the Iland being higher then any of the other Mountaines thereof and it aboundeth with Cypres trees Finally I remember that when I lodged in the Monastery San ' Maria Ogidietra the Caloiri or Monkes who for the most part are vnlearned and till the ground and labour like laimen assured me that each measure of corne sowed in their fields the yeere past had yeelded ninetie fiue measures CHAP. IIII. Of my iourney from Candia partly by land partly by Sea by the sea shoares and by the Ilands of the AEgean Sea Pontus and Propontis to the Citie of Constantinople And of my iourney thence by Sea to Venice and by Land to Augsburg Nurnberg and Stode in Germany And of my passage ouer Sea into England And of my iourney through many seuerall Shares of England Scotland and Ireland VPon Monday the twentie of December after the old stile at three of the clock in the afternoone we went aboard a little Greeke Barke loaded with Muskedines and with tunnes of Lemons Iuyce which the Turks drinke like Nectar and with Onions and ready to saile for Constantinople where I payed for my passage fiue zechines and as much for my seruant The night following was very bright with Moone-shine yet we staied all the night in the Hauen compassed with walles either because the Gouernour of the Castle would not let the Barke go forth till the Master had satisfied him or because the Master pretending that cause of stay had some businesse to dispatch The next morning early being the one and twentie of December we set saile and the same day we sailed close by the Iland Zantorini more then one hundred miles distant from Candia They report that this Iland and another of the same name both of little circuit were in our age
dispensation on their side Therefore let the Papists feare to giue their followers leaue to heare vs in our Schooles or Churches lest they be chained with the force of truth And let vs securely permit our men to passe into the heart of Italy so they be first of ripe yeeres and well instructed Vpon my word they run no other danger then the escaping the snares of the Inquisition of which discretion I shall speake at large in the foure and twentieth Precept of Dissimulation in the next Chapter If any man obiect that some of our young Schollers haue passed into their Seminaries beyond the Seas let him consider that they were not seduced abroad but first infected at home in their parents houses and our Vniuersities which mischiefe Parents and Magistrates ought to preuent by keeping the suspected at home for the rest there is no danger But behold when I thought to haue finished my taske carpers consumed with enuie who barke at trauellers as dogs at the Moone and thinking to gaine reputation by other mens disgrace they are not ashamed to say that vagabond Caine was the first Traueller Old Writers I confesse sometimes vse the word of Perigrination for banishment but God be praised here is no question made of banished or cursed men driuen out from the sight of God They which spend the greater part of their yeeres in forraigne places as it were in voluntary banishment may more instly bee compared to Caine and are not vnlike to rude Stage players who to the offence of the beholders spend more time in putting on their apparrell then in acting their Comedy for life is compared to a stage and our Parents and Kins-men expecting our proofe to the beholders Therefore it is fit to restraine this course within due limits to which the Romans as Suetonius writes prescribed perhaps too strictly three yeeres In the last place they that detract from Trauellers to the end they may choke vs with our owne disdaine if not with arguments send out their spyes in their last skirmish to cast this Dart at vs. After so many dangers and troubles how many of you after your returne are preferred in the Common-wealth To what purpose doe you tire your selues in attaining so many vertues Is it to exercise them leaning on a plowmans or shepheards staffe I should enter a most spacious field of common griefe if I should search the causes why in our age great part of the Counsellours of States and Peeres of Realmes rather desire to haue dull and slothfull companions then those that are wise and ambitious and so in like sort rather base and expert ready seruants then those thot are free and learned Knowledge puffeth vp and I remember of late a learned Physician who being sent for by a great Lord and he being offended at his long stay freely and boldly answered that knowledge could not dance attendance Hence is our calamity to omit the more curious search of this euill whose first encounter astonisheth me though I am not ignorant of the cause but let him that cast this Dart tell me whether this ill be uot common to all men of vertue and if it be so he must at least confesse with the Poet Solamen miser is socios habuisse doloris Partners in griefe doe solace giue And let all rare men in any kind of vertue when they are despised or neglected comfort themselues with this Phylosophicall precept of Aristotle that vertue is desired for it selfe not for any thing else So I say the fruit of trauell is trauell it selfe Hauing thus retorted our enemies weapons vpon their owne breasts because the common sort is more moued with examples then arguments it remaines that in the last place I should adorne the triumph of this vertuous industry with some few and speciall examples Many have beene found who haue passed into remote parts of the World onely to gaine health farre greater is the number of them who as the Poet saith Pauperiem fugiunt vltra Garamant as Indos Who further runne to shunne base pouerty Then Garamants and Indians doely And greatest is the number of them who following the standard of ambition haue pierced to the very gates of hell with sound of Drummes and Trumpets To conclude as diligent Merchants gather precious wares into one storehouse so Phylophers haue from the first ages of the World passed by flockes into forraigne parts to gaine knowledge as the Egyptians into Chaldea the Greekes into Egypt and the Romans into Greece Pythagorus walked sarre and neere not onely to learne but also in diuers places to get Disciples whom he might teach for the Poet saith well Scire tuum nihil est nisi te scire hoc sciat alter To know auaileth thee no whit If no man know thou knowest it To be briefe if wee will credit old monuments which I confesse to suspect hee came in person and sowed the precepts of his Phylosophy euen among the Britaines deuided from all the World Plato hath written some-what too seuerely against Trauellers perhaps like Alexander the Great who was angry with his Master Aristotle because hee had published the 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which hee had read vnto him thereby leauing him nothing wherein he might excell others so Plato hauing gotten the name of Diuine by his very trauels would forbid or limit the same to others that he might shine among the Phylosophers Velut inter stellas Luna minores As the bright Moone among the lesser starres It is most certaine that hee was not onely industrious but euen curious in this course so as he sayled into Sicily the entrance of which Iland was vpon paine of death forbidden to strangers onely that he might see the burning of the Mountaine AEtna Apelles by drawing of a most subtile lyne at Rhodes was made knowne to Protogenes Homer being blind yet ceased not to trauell In our Age they which are renowned at home for any Art are not content therewith except they may passe into forraigne Courts to make knowne their skill The most ancient Lawgiuers got the experience by which they had rule in their Cities not by secure study at home but by aduenturous trauels abroad as the Poet saith Ingenium mala saepe mouent Aduersities doe often whet our wits Moyses Orpheus Draco Solon Mines Rhadamanthus Licurgus and almost all the Consuls of Rome themselues had beene in forraigne parts and granted ample priuiledges to strangers Among Physicians we read that Esculapius and Hypocrates trauelled and that Galene was at Smyrna Corinth Alexandria in Palestine at Lemnos Ciprus and at Rome and Auicenna boasteth that he had passed through the whole World I know that many in our Vniuersities become learned Physicians but no doubt they would haue beene more learned if they had passed into forraigne parts One Land yeeldeth not all things A man shall hardly learne at home the diuers natures of hearbes and other things or the diuers dispositions of one and the same body according to
the difference of the clyme aire and diet This the Spaniard wittily obserued who hauing got the French Pox sayled into America and did there learne the cure of that disease from those who first infected the Spaniards therewith We praise Physicians especially for experience as Lawyers for diligence desiring to haue an old Physician and a young Lawyer to giue vs counsell and follow our businesse but experience is of seuerall things dispersed through the vniuersall World It is written that of old the AEgyptians had seuerall Physicians for each seuerall disease who would not haue returned more learned from their Lectures Also they laid vp approued remedies of diseases in the Temples of Isis and Vulcane What Scholler then returning from AEgypt should not haue gained great reputation to his skill and we know that opinion many times auaileth with the sicke euen more then the medicine In this sort ambitious men of old by the onely opinion of their experience by seeing the world did obtaine to be numbered among the Gods Iupiter of Creta in Italy Bacchus in the furthest East Hercules in the most remote parts of Africke towards the West planted monuments of their trauels The voyage of the Argonautes the wanderings of Vlisses and AEneas are sung by all Ballad-sellers Alexander the Great passed the monument of Bacchus in the East It were infinite onely to name the Roman Emperours who excelled in this industry For as the Wiseman said that he was a Citizen of the World so the Romans by giuing remote Princes the priuiledge to be Citizens of Rome and by sending Roman Citizens in Colonies to inhabit remote places vsed the whole World for a City neither did they euer admit any to the highest dignities in the City of Rome nor yet to the inferiour Magistrates thereof who had not first borne rule or Office in some remote Prouince One Iulius Caesar came saw and ouercame with his Army among the Cimbrians Germans Spaniards Britans Grecians Africans and those of Asia The very Westerne Emperours of later times haue been enflamed with the same desire Charles the Great made happy warre beyond the Pyrenean mountaines against the Sarrasens beyond the Alpes against the Lombards and in Germany against the Saxons Who hath not heard of the European Princes like so many Floods carrying Armies into the East To omit all other for I desire to be briefe Charles the fifth inferiour to none of his Predecessours and emulous of Hercules himselfe passed his pillars at the furthest straight of the Mediteranean Sea and added to his Armes the Mot of Hercules Non plus vlira No farther beyond this onely leauing out the first word Non because he had passed the limits of Hercules as Alexander the Great had done those of Bacchus Whereby notwithstanding some thinke that he did rather blemish then increase the fame of his trauels since that part of Africke was so neere adioyning to his Kingdomes of Spaine but in the meane time they forget that he was borne at Gaunt in Flaunders Methinkes I haue said enough and too much in so cleere a cause therefore I will onely adde some choyce examples of the holy Scriptures and so conclude Abraham left his Countrey at Gods command and went to the Land of Promise called also the Land of Pilgrimage Iacob serued for his wiues in Mesopotamia and in his old age passed into AEgypt The Israelites were brought by large circuit from the seruitude of AEgypt into the Land of Promise that the protection of God might by aduersity be more imprinted in their minds and they be more stirred vp to keepe the Lawes of so gracious a God The example of a woman the Queen of Sheba is famous who came to Ierusalem to be an eye and eare witnesse of Salomons wisdome To be briefe Christ himselfe liued in the flesh as a Pilgrim choosing no set place of aboad when he was in the Cradle three Wisemen came from the East to worship him and himselfe being an Infant was carried into Egypt to shunne Herods tyranny He commanded his Apostles to preach the Gospell throughout the World Among the Fathers Saint Augustine wished to haue seene three things Christ in the flesh Paul in the Pulpit and Rome in the flower In our Age the Turkes and Papists so madly affect Pilgrimages as they superstitiously thinke the same auaileable to the saluation of their soules with which extreame least I should seeme to know no meane I wil conclude these examples For my part I thinke variety to be the most pleasing thing in the World and the best life to be neither contemplatiue alone nor actiue altogether but mixed of both God would haue made eternall spring had he not knowne that the diuers-seasons would be not onely most profitable to the workes of nature but also most plesant to his creatures while the cold Winter makes the temperate Spring more wished Such is the delight of visiting forraigne Countreys charming all our sences with most sweet variety They seeme to me most vnhappy and no better then Prisoners who from the cradle to old age still behold the same wals faces orchards pastures and obiects of the eye and still heare the same voices and sounds beate in their eares Not the song of the Cuckow nor the craking of the Crowes nor the howling of Wolues nor the bellowing of Oxen nor the bleying of Sheepe no nor the sweet voyces of Larkes and Nightingales if they be shut vp in a Cage doe so much please vs at home as the variety of all composed of diuers tunes delights vs in the fields abroad In like sort it is manifest that all the other sences are not so much pleased with any thing as variety They are in some measure happy who hauing but one house yet haue change of chambers to remoue as the season of the yeere changeth but I iudge Lawyers and Officers more happy who haue their Termes to liue in the City and their Vacations to returne into the Countrey so often as it were renewing their marriage dayes And of all I iudge the Nomades most happy the comparison holding in other things who liue in Tents and so by remouing not onely escape the heat of Summer the cold of Winter the want of pastures all diseases and all vnpleasing things but at their pleasure enioy all commodities of all places Let vs imitate the Storkes Swallowes and Cranes which like the Nomades yeerely fetch their circuits and follow the Sunne without suffering any distemper of the seasons The fixed Starres haue not such power ouer inferiour bodies as the wandring Planets Running water is sweet but standing pooles stinke Take away Idlenes and the bate of all vice is taken away Men were created to moue as birds to flie what they learne by nature that reason ioined to nature teacheth vs. Nothing can be added to the worthy praises of him as the Poet suith Qui Mores hominum multorum vidit vrbes Who many Mens manners hath seene And hath in many