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A07623 Certeine matters concerning the realme of Scotland, composed together The genealogie of all the kings of Scotland, their liues, the yeeres of their coronation, the time of their reigne, the yeere of their death, and maner thereof, with the place of their buriall. The whole nobilitie of Scotland, their surnames, their titles of honour, the names of their chiefe houses, and their mariages. The arch-bishopricks, bishopricks, abbacies, priories, & nunries of Scotland. The knights of Scotland. The forme of the oth of a duke, earle, lord of Parliament, and of a knight. The names of barons, lairds, and chiefe gentlemen in euerie sherifdome. The names of the principall clannes, and surnames of the borderers not landed. The stewartries and baileries of Scotland. The order of the calling of the Table of the Session. The description of whole Scotland, with all the iles, and names thereof. The most rare and woonderfull things in Scotland. As they were anno Domini, 1597.; Certaine matters composed together Monipennie, John. 1603 (1603) STC 18018; ESTC S100061 58,992 94

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eight miles of length and foure in breadth distant from Arrane as is said eight miles South-east and from Argyle South-west little more than halfe a mile from Cunnynghame which lies by-East of it sixe miles It is a low Countrey commodious enough for Corne and store In it is a towne of the same name and therein is the olde Castell of Rosa. There is another Castell in the middest of it named Cames in their owne language in Greeke Kamcos that is verie crooked The I le Mernoca a mile of length and halfe a mile of bredth lies lowe South-westward well manured and fertill for the quantitie Within the Firth of Clyde lies little Cambra and great Cambra not farre distant one from another Great Cambra is fertill of Corne and little Cambra of fallow Deere From the Mule of Kyntyre Littia more then a mile is Porticosa auona getting that name from the creeke of Walter that kept the Danes Nauie there at what time they had the Iles in their handes From the same Mule North-west ouer against the coast of Ireland lies Rachuda and from Kyntyre foure miles the little Ile Caraia and not farre from thence Gigaia sixe miles of length and a mile and a halfe of bredth Twelue miles from Gigaia lies Iura foure and twentie miles of length The shoreside of Iura is well manured and the inward part of the Countrey is cled with wood full of Deere of sundry kinds Some thinke that this I le was named of olde Dera which worde in the Gothicke tongue signifieth a Deere Two miles from Iura lies Scarba in length from the East to the West foure miles and a mile in bredth in few places occupied The tide of the sea betwixt this I le and Iura is so violent that it is not possible to passe it either by saile or aire except at certaine times At the backe of this I le are many vnwoorthie little Ilands scattered heere and there Ballach or Genistaria Gearastilla Longaia the 2. Fidlais the 3. Barbais distinguished by their owne proper names Culbremna Dunum Coilp Cuparia Beluahua Vikerana Vitulina Lumga Seila Scana These three last Iles are indifferent fertill of corne and store and pertaine to the Earles of Argyle Next vnto them is Sklata so named from a Sklait quarre that is in it Then Naguisoga and Eisdalfa and Skennia and that which is named Thiana from an herbe hurtfull to the cornes called Guld not vnlike to the herbe Lutea but that it is somewhat more waterish coloured Vderga and the kings Iland then Duffa that is blacke and the Iland of the Church and Triaracha and then the Iland Ardua Hun●lis Viridi● and Ericca Item Arboraria Capra●ia Cunicularia and it that is named the Iland of Idle-men and Abridica and Lismora wherein sometime was the Bishops feate of Argyle It is eight miles of length and two in breadth In this Iland besides the commodities that it hath common with the rest there are Mynes of mettalles Then Ouilia the Iland Traiecte the Iland Garna that is sharpe the Iland of the stane Gressa and the great Iland Ardiescara Musadilla and Bernera sometime called the holie Girth notable by the tree Taxus which growes in it Molochasgia Drinacha full of thornes and Bourtree ouer-couered with the ruines of old houses Wrichtoun fertill of wood Item Ransa Kernera The greatest Iland next vnto Iura westward is Yla 24. miles of length and sixteene of bredth extended from the South to the North aboundant in store Cornea Deere and Lead There is a fresh water in it called Laia and a creeke of salt water and therein are many Ilands In it also is a fresh water Loch wherein stands the Iland named Fulnigania sometime the chiefe seate of all the Iles-men There the Gouernour of the Iles vsurping the name of a King was wont to dwell Neere vnto this Iland and somewat lesse then it is the round Iland taking the name from Counsell for therein was the Iustice seate and fourteene of the most woorthy of the Countrey did minister Iustice vnto all the rest continually and intreated of the waightie affaires of the Realme in counsell whose great equitie and discretion kept peace both at home and abroade and with peace was the companion of peace aboundance of all things Betwixt Ila and Iura lies a little Iland taking the name from a Cairne of stones At the South-side of Ila doe lie these Ilands Colurna Muluo●is Os●una Brigidana Corskera the lowe Iland Imersga Beathia Texa Ouicularia Noasiga Vinarda Caua Tarsheria The great Iland Auchnarra the Iland made like a man the Iland of Iohn Slakbadis At the west corner of Ila lies Ouersa where the sea is most tempestuous and at certaine houres vnnauigable The Marchants Iland And Southwest-ward from it Vsabrasta Tanasta and Nefa The Weauers Iland Eight miles from Ila somewhat towards the North lies Ornansa Next vnto it the Swines Iland Halfe a mile from Ornansa Colnansa North from Colnansa lies the Mule twelue miles distant from Ila This I le is foure and twentie miles of length and as much in bredth vnpleasant indeed but not vnfruitfull of Cornes There are many woods in it many heardes of Deere and a good hauen for shippes There are in it two waters entring into the Sea ouer against the Dowe Iland and there are two waters well spred of Salmond fish and some strippes not altogether emptie thereof There are also two Loches in it and in euerie one of the Loches an Iland and in euerie Iland a towre The sea running into this Iland at foure sundrie parts makes foure salt-water Loches therein all foure abounding in Herring To the North-west lies Calumbaria or the Dowe Iland to the South-est Era both the one and the other profitable for Bestiall for Cornes and for fishings From this Iland two miles lies the Iland of Sanct-colme two miles of length and more then a mile of bredth fertill of all things that that part of the heauen vseth to produce Renowmed by the auncient monuments of that countrey but most esteemed for the sincere holinesse and discipline of Sanct-colme There were in this Iland two Abbies one of Monkes another of graie Fryars a Court or as it is tearmed at this time a parish Church with many Chappelles builded of the liberalitie of the Kings of Scotland and gouernours of the Iles. When as the English men had taken Eubonia and therein the auncient seate of the Bishops of the Iles they placed their seate into the old Cloister of Sanct-colme There is as yet remaining amongst the old ruines a buriall place or Church-yard common to all the Noble families of the West Iles wherein there are three tombes higher then the rest distant euerie one from another a little space and three little houses situated to the East builded seuerally vpon the three tombes vpon the west parts whereof there are stones grauen expressing whose tombes these were which stand in
the midst bearing this title The tombs of the Kings of Scotland It is said there were 48. Kings of Scotland buried there The tombe vpon the right side hath this inscription The Tombes of the Kings of Ireland It is recorded that there were foure Kings of Ireland buried there It that is vpon the left side hath this inscription The Tombes of the Kings of Norway The report is that there were eight Kings of that Nation buried there The notable houses of the Iles haue their Tombes in the rest of the Church-yard euery one seuerally by themselues There are about this Iland and neere vnto it sixe little Ilands not vnfruitfull giuen by the auncient Kings of Scotland and gouernours of the Iles to the Abbey of Sanct-Colme Soa is a very profitable ground for sheepe albeit the chiefe commoditie of it consists in sea-fowles that build therein specially of their egges Next vnto it is the I le of Wemen Then Rudana Neere vnto it Bernira and from that Skennia halfe a mile distant from the Mule It hath a Priest of the owne but the most part of the parishioners dwell in Mule The sea sides of it abound in Connies Fiue miles hence lieth Frosa all these Iles are subiect to the Monkes of Saint Colmes Abbey Two miles from Frosa lieth Vilua fiue miles of length fruitfull for the quantitie of Corne and store It hath a commodious Hauen for gallies or boates Vpon the South side of it lieth Toluansa the ground whereof is not vnfruitfull There is a wood of Nut-trees in it About three hundred paces from this Iland lieth Gomatra two miles long and one mile broad extended from the North to the South From Gomatra foure miles Southward lies 2. Staffae the one and the other full of Hauening places Foure miles South-east from Staffa lie two Ilands named Kerimburgae the more and the lesse enuironed with such shore high and furious tide that by their owne naturall defence supported somewhat by the industrie of man they are altogether inuincible One mile from them lies an Iland whereof the whole earth almost is blacke growne together of rotten wood and mosse The people make peates of it for their fire where-from it is called Monadrum for that kinde of earth which in the English language is called Mosse in the Irish is called Monadrum Next vnto this I le lieth Longa 2. miles of length and Bacha halfe as much From Bacha 6. miles lies Tiria eight miles in length and three in breadth Most fertill of all the Ilandes in all things necessarie for the sustentation of man It aboundeth in store of Cornes fishings and Sea-fowles In this Iland there is a fresh-water Loch and therein an olde Castle It hath also an hauen not incommodious for boates From this Iland two miles lies Sunna and from Sunna as farre lieth Colla twelue miles of length and two miles of bredth a fertill Iland Not farre from it is Calfa almost all full of wood And then two Ilands named meekle Viridis and little Viridis Item other two of the same names Ouer against the Mules head and not farre from it lie two Ilandes named Glassae and then Ardan-eidir that is the high Iland of the rider Then Luparia or the Wolfe Iland and after it a great I le lying North from the Iland Colla extended East and West Then Ruma sixteene miles in length and sixe in bredth rising high in strait hilles full of woods and scrogges and for that cause it is inhabited in very fewe places The Sea-fowles laie their egges heere and there in the ground thereof In the middest of the spring time when the egges are laide any man that pleaseth may take of them In the high rockes thereof the Sea-guse whereof we spake before are taken in aboundance From this Iland foure miles North-east-ward lies the Horse Iland and from it halfe a mile the Swine Iland for the quantitie fruitefull ynough in all things necessarie The Falcon buildeth in it It hath also an hauen Not farre from it lies Canna and Egga little Ilands fertill ynough In Egga are Solan-geese Soabrittella more profitable for hunting then for any other commoditie necessarie for man From this Iland the I le of Skye greatest of all the Ilands that are about Scotland lies North and South 40. miles in length and eight miles broad in some places and in other places 12. miles rising in hilles in sundrie places full of woods and pastorage The ground thereof fertill in corne and store and besides all other kindes of beastiall fruitfull of Mares for breeding of horse It hath fiue great riuers rich of Salmond and many little waters not altogether bare thereof The sea running into the land on all sides make many salt-waters three principall and 13. others all rich in herring There is in it a fresh-water Loch and fiue Castles The I le in the old Scottish tongue is called Scianacha that is winged because the heads betwixt the which the Sea runneth into the land spreadeth out like winges but by common custome of speech it is called Skie that is a wing About the Skie lie little Ilands scattered heere and there Oronsa fertill in corne and store Cunicularia full of bushes and Connies Paba infamous for throate-cutting For that in the woods thereof robbers lie in ambushments to trap them that passe that way .8 miles South-west from it lies Scalpa which besides sundry other commodities hath woods full of troopes of Deere Betwixt the mouth of Zochcarron and Raorsa lies Crulinga seuen miles of length and two of breadth there is a sure hauen in it for ships There are in it also woods of Bucke and Deere in them Halfe a mile from Crulinga is Rona full of wood and Hadder There is an hauen in the innermost Loch thereof perillous for robbery to them that passe that way because it is a meete place to hide ambushments in In the mouth of the same Loch is an Iland of the same name called for shortnesse Ger-loch From Rona sixe miles Northward lies Flada two miles from Flada Euilmena Vpon the south side of Skie lies Oronsa and a mile from it Knia Pabra and great Bina and then fiue little vnworthy Ilands Next vnto them is Isa fertill in cornes Beside it is Ouia then Askerma and Lindella .8 miles from Skie southward lies Linga and Gigarmena Benera Megala Paua Flada Scarpa Veruecum Sandara Vatersa Which besides many other commodities hath a hauen commodious for a number of great ships whereinto fishermen of all countries about conuene certaine times of the yeere ordinarily These last nine Ilands are subiect to the Bishop of the Iles. 2. miles from Vatersa is Barra running from the North-west to the south-east 7. miles in length fruitfull of cornes and profitable for fish There runneth into it a Loch with a narrow throat growing round and wide within In it there is an inch and in the inch a strong Castle Vpon the North-side of Barra there riseth
an hill full of hearbes from the foot to the head vpon the top whereof is a fresh water well The spring that runneth from this well to the next sea carries with it little things like as they were quicke but hauing the shape of no beast which appeare although obscurely in some respect to represent the fish that we call commonly Cockles The people that dwell there call that part of the shore whereunto these things are carried The great sandes Because that when the sea ebbes there appeareth nothing but drie sandes the space of a mile Out of these sandes the people digge out great Cocles which the neighbours about iudge either to grow as it were of that seede that the springs doe bring from the well or else indeed to grow in that sea Betwixt Barra and Wist lie these little Ilands following Oronsa Onia Hakerseta Garnlanga Flada great Buya little Buya Haya Hell saea Gygaia Lingaia Foraia Fudaia Eriscaia From these Ilands Vistus lies Northward 34 miles of length and 6 miles of bredth The tide of the sea running into two places of this I le causeth it to appeare three Ilands but when the tide is out it becommeth all one Iland In it are many fresh water loches specially one three miles long The sea hath worne in vpon the land and made it selfe a passage to this Loch and can neuer be holden out albeit the inhabitants haue made a wall of sixty foote broad to that effect The water entreth in amongst the stones that are builded vp together and leaues behinde it at the ebbe many sea-fishes There is a fish in it like to the Salmond in all things except that with the white womb it hath a blacke backe and wanteth skailes Item in this Iland are innumerable fresh-water loches There is in it caues couered ouer with Hadder that are very dennes for knaues In it are fiue churches 8 miles West from it lies Helsther Vetularum so named as I beleeue because it appertaineth to the Nunnes of the I le of Ione A little further North riseth Haneskera about this Iland at certaine times of the yeere are many Sealches they are taken by the countrey-men South-west almost sixty miles from Haneskera lies Hirta fertill in corne and store specially in sheepe which are greater then the sheepe of any the other Ilands The Inhabitants thereof are rude in all kinde of craft and most rude in Religion After the Summer Solstice which is about the seuenteenth day of Iune the Lord of the Iland sendeth his Chamberlaine to gather his dueties and with him a Priest who baptizeth all the children that are borne the yeere preceeding And if it chance the Priest not to come then euery man baptizeth his owne childe The tenants pay to their Lordes certaine number of Sealches of Reisted Wedders and Sea-fowles The whole Iland passeth not one mile in length and as much in bredth There is no part of it that can be seene by any of the other Ilands except three hilles which are vpon the coast thereof and may be seene from high places of some other Ilands In these hilles are very faire sheepe but scarsely may any man get to them for the violence of the tide Now let vs returne to Wistas From the North point thereof is the Iland Velaia one mile of bredth and twise as long Betwixt this point and the Iland Harea lie these Ilands following little of quantitie but not vnfruitfull Soa Stroma Pabaia Barneraia Emsaia Keligira Little Saga Great Saga Harmodra Scarua Grialinga Cillinsa Hea Hoia Little Soa Great Soa Isa Little Seuna Great Seuna Taransa Slegana Tuemen Aboue Horea is Scarpa and halfe a mile towards the West Equinoctiall from the Lewis lie seuen little Ilands which some name Flananae some holy places of girth and refuge rising vp in hilles that are full of hearbs but vnlaboured of any man There is neuer almost one foure-footed beast in them except wilde sheepe which are taken by hunters but they serue of no purpose for eating because in stead of flesh they haue a kinde of fatnesse and if there be any flesh vpon them it is so vnpleasant that no man vnlesse he be very sore oppressed with extreme hunger will taste of it Further North in the same ranke lies Garn Ellan that is the hard I le Lamba Flada Kellasa Little Barnera Great Barnera Kirta Little Bina Great Bina Vexaia Pabaia Great Sigrama Cunicularia so named from the plentie of Conies that are there Little Sigrama The Iland of the Pigmeis In this Iland is a church wherin the Pigmeis were buried as they that are neighbours to the Iland beleeue Sundrie strangers digging deepely in the ground sometimes haue found and yet to this day doe finde verie little round heads and other little bones of mans bodie which seemes to approue the trueth and apparance of the common brute In the North-east side of the Iland Leogus there are two Loches running foorth of the sea named the North and South Loches wherein at all times of the yeere there is abundance of fish for all men that list to take them From the same side of the Loch somewhat more Southerly lies Fabilla Adams Iland the Lambe Iland Item Hulmetia Viccoilla Hanarera Laxa Era the Dow Iland Tora Iffurta Sealpa Flada Senta At the East side whereof there is a passage vnder the earth vaulted aboue a flight shoot of length into the which little boates may either saile or rowe for eschewing of the violent tide raging with great noice and danger of them that saile betwixt the Iland and the head that is next vnto it Somewhat Eastward lies an Iland named Old Castle a roome strong of nature and sufficient enough to nourish the inhabitants in cornes fish and egges of Sea-fowles that build in it At that side where Lochbrien enters is situate the Iland Eu all full of woods onely meet to couer Theeues who lie in wait for passengers comming that way More Northerlie lies the Iland Grumorta and it is likewise full of woods and haunted by throat-cutters The Iland named the Priests Iland lies that same way profitable for pastourage of sheepe and full of Sea-fowles Next vnto it is Afulla Neighbour to Afulla is great Habrera then little Habrera and neere vnto it the Horse-Ile and besides that againe the Iland Marta Ika These last mentioned Ilandes lie all before the entrie of Lochbrien and from them Northward lie Haray and Lewis 16 miles of length and 16 of bredth These three make an Iland which is not diuided by any hauen or port of the Sea but by the seuerall Lordships of the heritours thereof The South part is commonly named Haray In it sometime was the Abbey named Roadilla builded by Maccleude Hareis It is a Countrey fertill enough in Cornes but yet the increase commeth rather of digging and deluing than by earing with the plough There is good pastourage for sheepe in it chiefly a high hill ouer-couered
with grasse to the verie top Master Donald Monro a learned and godly man sayth that when he was there he saw sheepe as olde as that kinde of Bestiall vseth to be feeding masterlesse perteining peculiarlie to no man the commoditie whereof is the greater for that there is neither Woolfe Foxe or Serpent seene there albeit that betwixt that part and Lewis there be great woods full of Deere but they are of stature low and not great of bodie In that part also of the Iland is a water well stored of Salmond fishes Vpon the North side of it it is well manured vpon the sea side There are in it foure Churches one Castle seuen great running waters and twelue lesse all for their quantities plentifull of Salmond fish The sea enters within the land in diuers parts of the Iland making sundrie salt water Loches all plentifull of Herring There is in it great commoditie of sheepe which feed at their pleasure vpon the hadder and amongst the bushes and craigs The Inhabitants gather them together euery yeere once either within some narrow roome or else within some flaik foldes and there conforme to the ancient custome of the Countrey they plucke off the wooll of them The most part of the hie land hereof is moory ground the superfice whereof is blacke congealed together by long progresse of time of mosse and rotten wood to the thicknesse of a foot or thereabouts the vpper scruffe is cast in long thicke turffes dried at the Sunne and so wonne to make fire of and burnt in stead of wood The next yeere after they mucke the bare ground where the scruffe was taken away with sea ware and sowe Barley vpon it In this Iland is such abundance of Whales taken that as aged men report the Priests will get of small and great together 27 Whales for their tenth There is also in this Iland a great Caue wherein the sea at a low water abides two faddome high and at a full sea it is more than foure faddome deepe people of all sorts and ages sit vpon the rockes thereof with hooke and line taking innumerable multitude of all kinde of fishes South-east from Lewis almost threescore miles there is a little Iland lowe and plaine well manured named Rona the Inhabitants thereof are rude men and almost without religion The Lord of the ground limits certeine number of households to occupie it appointing for euery householde few or many sheepe according to his pleasure whereon they may easily liue and pay him his rent Whatsoeuer rests at the yeeres end more than their necessary sustentation they send the same yeerely to Lewis to their master The rent for the most part which they pay is barlie meale sewed vp in sheepe-skinnes in great quantitie amongst them growes no store of any other kinde of graine Mutton and so many sea-fowles dried at the Sunne as they themselues leaue vneaten at the yeeres end are sent to their master And in case at any time the number of persons increase in their houses they giue all that exceed the ordinary number to their master so that in my opinion they are the onely people in the world that want nothing but hath all things for themselues in abundance vncorrupt with lecherie or auarice and are indued with innocencie and quietnesse of minde which other people with great trauell seeke out by the institutions and precepts of Philosophie purchast to them by ignorance of vice so that they appeare to want nothing of the highest felicitie that may be except only that they are ignorant of the commoditie of their owne condition There is in this Iland a Chappell dedicated to Saint Ronan wherein as aged men report there is alwayes a Spade wherewith when as any is dead they finde the place of his graue marked In it besides diuers kindes of fishings there are many Whales taken Sixteene miles West from this Iland lies Suilkeraia a mile in length but in it growes no kinde of hearbe no not so much as Hadder There is only blacke craggie hilles in it and some of them couered with blacke mosse Sea-fowles lay their egges in sundrie places thereof and doe hatch When they are neere their flight the inhabitants of Leogus next neighbours vnto it saile thither and remaine there eight daies or thereabout to take and gather the fowles drying them at the winde and load their boates with the dried flesh and feathers thereof In that Iland is seene a rare kinde of fowle vnknowen to other countries named Colca little lesse in quantity then a Goose. These fowles come there euery yeere in the Spring time hatch and nourish their young ones till they be able to liue by themselues About that same very time they cast their fethers and become starke naked of all their body and then they get themselues to the sea and are neuer seene againe till the next Spring This farther is notable in them their feathers haue no stalke as other fowles feathers haue but they are all couered with a light feather like vnto Doun wherein is no kinde of hardnesse The Iles of Orkenay in the North of Scotland Now follow the Iles of Orkenay lying scattered partly in the Deucalidon sea partly in the Germaine seas towards the North parts of Scotland The ancient writers and the late writers both agree sufficiently vpon their name but yet neuer man so farre as I know hath giuen any reason of the same neither yet is it sufficiently knowen who were the first possessors thereof All men notwithstanding alledge their originall to be from Germany but of which countrey they are discended none hath expressed Vnlesse we list to coniecture from their speech they sometime spake and yet speake the ancient language of the Gothes Some are of opinion that they were Pights chiefely perswaded heereunto through their deuision by the sea named Perth and Firth from Caithnes who likewise suppose that the Pights were of their originall Saxons mooued heereunto by the verse of Claudian taken out of his 7. Panegericke Maduerunt Saxone fuso Orcades incaluit Pictorum sanguine Thule Scotorum cumulos fleuit glacialis Ierne But these mens errors may be easily confuted partly by Beda an English Saxon himselfe who affirmes that God was praised in seuen sundry languages amongst the Britaines and that the Pights language was one of them may well appeare for if that at that time the Pights had spoken Saxon which was then the vncorrupted speech of the Englishmen hee would then haue made no diuision betwixt the Saxons and the Pights language and partie also confuted by Claudian himselfe who in the very same verses disertly noteth the Pights a seuerall people from the Saxons affirming the Countrey of the one nation to be Orknay and the Countrey of the other Thule from which Country soeuer they be descended at this day their language differs both from the Scottish and English tongues but not much differs from the Gothes The common people to
this day are very carefull to keepe the ancient frugality of their Predecessors and in that respect they continue in good health for the most part both in minde and body so that few die of sicknesse but all for age The ignorance of delicacie is more profitable to them for preseruation of their health then the Art of medicine and diligence of Mediciners is to others The same their frugality is a great helpe to their beauty and quantity of stature There is small increase of Cornes amōgst them except of Oates and Barley whereof they make both breade and drinke They haue sufficient store of quicke goods Neat Seepe and Goates and thereby great plenty of milke cheese and butter They haue innumerable sea Fowles whereof and of fish for the most part they make their common food There is no venemous beast in Orknay nor none that is euill fauoured to looke vpon They haue little Nagges little worth in appearance but more able mettelled for any turne then men can beleeue There is no kinde of tree no not so much as a sprig in Orknay except Hadder The cause heereof is not so much in the aire and ground as in the sloth of the Inhabitants This may be easily prooued by roots of trees that are taken out of the ground in sundry parts of the I le When Wine comes there in ships forth of strange countries they geedily swallow it till they be drunken They haue an old Cup amongst them which to the effect their drunkenesse may haue the greater authority they say did appertaine to Saint Magnus the first man that brought the Christian Religion into that countrey This Cup exceeds farre the common quantity of other Cups so as it appeares to haue beene kept since the banquet of the Lapithes By it they trie their Bishop first when he comes amongst them Hee that drinkes out the whole cuppe at one draught which is seldome seene is by them extolled to the skies for heereof as from a blyth presage they conceiue with themselues increase in their goods the yeeres following Heereupon we may easily coniecture that the frugalitie whereof I speake proceeded not so much from reason and care to bee frugall as from pouertie and scarcitie And the same necessitie that was Mother of this frugalitie at the beginning kept her daughter long after amongst the ofspring of that I le till such time as the countries lying neere vnto it Luxurie increasing being corrupted the auncient discipline by little and little deformed they likewise gaue themselues to deceitfull pleasures Their traffique also with Pirats was a great spurre to the decaie of their temperancie The Pyrats fearing to frequent the company of them that dwelt in the continent land got fresh water foorth of the Iles made exchaunge with the inhabitants thereof giuing them wines and other sleight marchandise for fresh riuers or taking the same vpon slight prices from the people who being a small number without armes and lying so wide one from another in a tempestuous Sea staying and impeding their incurrence for mutuall defence and finding themselues vnable to withstand those Pyrats considering also their owne securitie ioyned with aduantage and pleasure were contented not altogether against their willes to receiue them at least they opponed not themselues directly vnto them The contagion of maners began not in the simple people but it did both begin and continued in the wealthie men and Priestes For the common sort at this day keepe some remembrance of their accustomed moderation The Orkenay sea is so tempestuous and raging not onely in respect of the violent windes and aspect of the heauens but also in consideration of the contrarious tides running headlong together from the West Ocean that the Vessels comming in anie strayt betwixt two landes can neither by saile nor oare once releeue themselues of raging tides and whirling waues of the Seas If any dare approach the strait they are either violently brought backe into the sea by the rage thereof broken vpon rockes and driuen vpon skares or else by the sworle of the seas sunke in the waues thereof These Straits may be passed at two times of the tyde when the weather is calme either at a deepe neep or at a full sea At these times the great Ocean offended with contentious tides whose force raised huge contrary waues sounds as it were the retreat in such sort that the surges of the seas oft before raging returne againe to their owne camps Writers agree not vpon the number of these Iles of Orkenay Plinius saies there be 40. Iles of them Others thinke there is but 30. or thereabout Paulus Orosius accounting them to be 33. in number iudgeth the neerest the truth Of these there be 13. inhabited the remanent are reserued for nourishing of Cattell There are also some little Ilands amongst them of so narrow bounds that scarcely albeit they were laboured are able to sustaine one or two labourers Others are but either hard crags bare or else crags couered with rotten Mosse The greatest of the Orkenay Ilands is named by many of the ancients Pomona At this day it is called The firme lande for that it is of greater quantitie then any of the rest It is 30. miles of length sufficiently inhabited It hath twelue Countrey parish Churches and one Towne named by the Danes to whose Iurisdiction these Ilands were sometimes subiect Cracomaca but now the name being corrupt it is called in Scottish Kirkwaa In this towne there are two little Towers builded not farre the one from the other one of them appertaines to the King the other to the Bishop Betwixt these two towers stands one Church very magnifique for such a Countrey Betwixt this Church and the towers on either side are sundrie buildings which the Inhabitants name The Kings towne and the Bishops towne The whole Iland runnes out in Promontories or heads betwixt which the sea runnes in and makes sure hauens for ships and harbours for boats In sixe sundrie places of this I le there are Mines of as good Lead and Tynne as is to be found in any part of Britayne This Iland is distant from Caithnes 24. miles or thereabouts deuided from thence by the Pights sea of whose nature we haue already spoken In this sea are diuers Ilands scattered here and there of whom Stroma for the quantitie lying foure myles from Caithnes is one and that not vnfruitfull but because it lies so neere to the continent land of Britaine and that the Earles of Caithnes haue alwaies bene Masters and Lords thereof it is not accounted amongst the Iles of Orknay From this Iland Northward lies South Ranalsay which is distant from Duncan-bey or rather Dunachis-bey sixteene miles and may be sailed with tide although there bee no winde in the space of two houres the course of that Sea is so vehement Ranalsay is fiue miles long and hath a commodious hauen named after Saint Margaret From it somewhat Eastward
there lie two little vnoccupied Ilands meete for pastouring of cattell called by the Orkenay men in their originall language Holmes that is plaine grassie ground vpon water sides Toward the North lies Burra Westward lie three Ilands euery one of them besides another Suna Flata and Fara and beyond them Hoia and Walles which some men thinke but one Iland and others esteeme it two for that at the time of the Equinoctials the Spring tydes are verie great and high and at the dead Neap the sands are bare ioyning them together at one straight throat making one Iland of both Yet when the tyde turnes and filles the straight againe they appeare to be two Ilands In these Iles are the highest hilles that are in all Orkenay Hoia and Walles are ten miles of length distant from Ranalsay eight miles and more then 20. miles from Dunkirk in Caithnes By North of it is the I le Granisa situate in a narrow Firth betwixt Caithnes and Pomona The West side of Pomona lookes to the West Sea directly Into the which so farre as men may see there is neither Iland nor Craig From the East point of Pomona lies Cobesa and vpon the North side it is almost inuironed by the Iles adiacent thereunto Siapinsa turning somwhat East lies 2. miles from Kirkwaá euen ouer against it 6. miles of length Right West from Siapinsa are the two little Ilands Garsa and Eglisa 4. miles of length In this Iland they say Saint Magnus is buried Next vnto it and somewhat neerer the continent land is Rusa 4. miles of length and 3. miles of breadth in some places well peopled A little west-ward lies the little Iland Broca Besides all these Iles there is another band of Iles lying to the North the East-most whereof is Stronza next it Linga fiue miles of length and two of breadth then sundrie Ilands named Holmes The Haá fiue miles of length and two of breadth By East of it lies Fara and North from Fara Wast●á running out into the sea in many heads and promontories Aboue Stronza at the East end of Etha lies Sanda Northward ten miles of length and foure of bredth where it is broadest Sanda is most fertill of Corne of all the Ilands of Orknay but it hath no kinde of fire within it selfe so the In-dwellers are compelled to make exchange of their victuals for Peits a kinde of blacke Mosse whereof almost all the North-parts of Scotland make their fire with their neighbours the Ethanes Beyond Sanda lies North Rannalsaá two myles of length and two of breadth No man may passe it but in the middest of Summer and that what time the sea is very calme Vpon the South-side of Pomona lies Rusa sixe myles of length and from it Eastward Eglisa wherein as is reported Saint Magnus is buried From Eglisa South Veragersa and not farre from it Westraá from which Hethland is distant 80. myles and Papastronza lies 80. myles from Hethland In the midway betwixt lies Fara that is the faire Iland standing in the sight of Orknay and Hethland both It riseth in three high promontories or heads and shore craig round about without any kind of entrance except at the South-east where it growes a little lower making a sure harborow for small boats The In-dwellers thereof are very poore for the fishers that come out of England Holland and other Countries neere vnto the great Ocean yeerely to fish in these seas in their passing by this Iland they spoile reife and take away at their pleasures whatsoeuer they finde in it Next vnto this Iland is the greatest Ile of all Hethland which in respect of the quantitie the In-dwellers name The Mane-land 16. miles of length There are sundry promontories or heads in it amongst which there are onely two to make account of the one long and small runnes North the other broader as in some part 16. miles runnes Northeast It is inhabited for the most part vpon the sea-coast Within the country there is no kind of quicke beast except the fowle flying Of late the labourers attempted to manure farther within the Country then their predecessors were accustomed to doe but they reported small aduantage for their paines There is very good fishing round about the whole country and so their commodity stands by the sea From this Land 10. miles Northward lies Zeall 20. miles of length and eight miles of bredth so wild a ground of nature that no kind of beast will liue in it except they that are bred in the same They say that the Bremes Marchants come thither and bring to them all forraine wares they need in abundance Betwixt this Iland and the maine land lie these little Ilands Linga Orna Bigga Sanctferri 2. miles North-ward from these lies Vnsta more then 20. miles of length and sixe miles of bredth a plaine country pleasant to the eie but it is compassed by a very tempestuous sea Via and Vra are cast in betwixt Vnsta and Zeall 2. Ilands Skenna Burna lie Westward from Vnsta Balta Hunega Fotlara seuen miles long and 7. miles Eastward from Vnsta 8. miles from Zeall ouer against the sea that deuides Zeal from Vnsta lies Fotlara more then 7. miles of length There are diuers vnwoorthy Ilands lying vpon the Eas●side of the maine land Mecla the three Ilands of East Skennia Chualsa Nostvada Brasa and Musa Vpon the West side lie West Shemniae Roria little Papa Venneda great Papa Valla Trondra Burra great Haura little Haura and so many Holmes lying scattered amongst them The Hethlandish men vse the same kind of food that the Orknay men vse but that they are somewhat more scarce in house-keeping They are appareled after the Almaine fashion and according to their substance not vnseemely Their commoditie consisteth in course cloth which they sel to Norway men in fish oile butter They fish in little cockboats bought from the Norway men that make them They salt some of the fish that they take and some of them they dry at the winde They sell those wares and pay their Masters with the siluer thereof A MEMORIALL OF THE MOST rare and woonderfull things in Scotland AMong many Commodities that Scotland hath common with other Nations it is not needfull to rehearse in this place in respect of their particulars declared at length before It is beautified with some rare gifts in it selfe wonderful to consider which I haue thought good not to obscure from the good Reader as for example In Orknay besides the great store of sheepe that feede vpon the maine lande thereof the Ewes are of such fecunditie that at euery lambing time they produce at least two and ordinarily three There be neither veneme us or rauenous beastes bred there nor doe liue there although they be transported thither In Schetland the Iles called Thulae at the time when the Sunne enters the Signe of Cancer for the space of twenty daies there appeares no night at all and among the rocks thereof
the spring thereof is a Loch forth of the which comes the water of Lute running into the West sea By report there was at the mouth of this water a good Towne named Innerluther from the name of the water Surely if we will consider the nature of the people that dwell thereabouts the commodity of sailing and portage by sea this is very proper for an Hauen The ancient Kings allured by these commodities sometime dwelt there in the Castle of Enone which Castle many at this time sinisterly informed suppose to be Dunstaffage for the ruines and signes of Dunstaffage euen to this day may be seene in Lorne There are some small Countries cast in betwixt Buquhan and the Westsea which hauing no notable thing worthy of memory within them we ouerpasse Murray lies betwixt Spey and Naes sometime named as some suppose Verar The Germane sea running betwixt these two waters backeward makes the shire narrow and yet for the quantity it is wealthy in corne and store and is the first country of Scotland for pleasure and commodities of fruitfull trees There are two townes in it Elgin vpon the water of Loxi keeping at this day the ancient name and Innernes vpon the water of Naes Naes comes forth of a Loch 34 miles of length named Loch-naes The water of Naes is almost alwaies warme and at no time so cold that it freezeth yea in the most cold time of winter broken yce falling in it is dissolued by the heat thereof West from Lochnaes there lies eight miles of continent ground and that small peece is the onely impediment that the seas ioine not and make the remanent of Scotland an Iland for all the land that lies betwixt the strait and the Deucalidon sea is cutted by creeks and Loches of salt water running into the land The countrey that lies by North Naes and these straits is commonly diuided in foure Prouinces Nauern or as the common people name it Stranauerne from the water of Narn From the mouth of Naes where it enters into the Germane sea North lies Rosse shooting into the sea in great promontories or heads as the word it selfe expresseth For Rosse in Scottish is called An head The countrey of Rosse is of greater length then breadth extended from the Germaine to the Deucalidon sea where it riseth in craggy and wilde hilles and yet in the plaine fieldes thereof there is as great fertility of Corne as in any other part of Scotland There is in Rosse pleasant dales with waters and Loches full of fishes specially Loch-broome It is broad at the Deucalidon sea and growes narrow by little and little turning South-ward From the other shore the Germane sea winning the selfe an entry betwixt high Clints runnes within the land in a wide bosome and makes an healthfull port and sure refuge against all tempests and stormes The entry of it is easie and within it is a very sure Hauen against all iniuries of sea and a Hauen for great Nauies of ships Next vnto Rosse North-ward is Nauarn so named from the water of Nauarn which the common people following the custome of their countrey speech calleth Stranauerne Rosse-marches with Stranauerne at the South The Deucalidon sea at the West and North runnes about it and at the East it ioines with Caithnes Sotherland is so cast in amongst these countries that it is neighbour to them all and marches with euery one of them at some part At the West it hath Stranauerne at the East Rosse and at the North Caithnes lying ouer against it The Countrey people in respect of the nature of the ground are more giuen to store then to Corne. There is no singular thing in it that I know except the hilles of white Marble a rare woonder in cold countries and seruing for no purpose because that ouer-great delicacie the curious caruer of such things is not entered in that country Caithnes where it marches with Stranauerne is the furthest North countrey of all Scotland And those two Countries draw the breadth of Scotland into a narrow front In them are three promontories or heads the highest whereof is in Nauernia named by Ptolomie Orcas or Taruidum The other two not altogether so hie are in Caithnes Veruedrum now named Hoya and Berubrum vntruely by Boetius called Dume now commonly called Dunnesbey or by some Duncans-bey Of this word as appeareth some letters taken away the word Dunsbey is come At the foot of the hill there is a prety creeke which they that trauell from Orknay by sea vse for an hauen Creeke is commonly called a Bay This Creeke then being named by such as dwelt thereabout Duncans-bey or Dunnachis-bey the common people ioyning both the words in one haue in their fashion made the word Dunsbey In this Country Ptolomie places Carnauij of which names there remaine yet some signes for the Earle of Caithnes chiefe Castle is named Gernigo It appeares that the people named by Ptolomie Cornauij were called by the Britaynes Kernici for indeed not onely in this Countrey but also in the furthest place of this I le that is in Cornewales he places the people named Cornauij and they that speake the Britayne tong call the same people Kernici It may be that he should not iudge amisse that should esteeme Cornewales to be spoken for Kernice-wales taking that name from the Frenchmen called Kernici It appeareth likewise that some signes of this name although obscure remained in the middest of the I le For Beda writes that the beginning of Seuerus wall was not far from the Abbay of Kebercurnike but in these places now there is no appearance of any Abbay Yet there is in that part a Castle of Dowglasses ruinous and halfe decaied named Abircorne Whether one of these words or both be corruptly driuen for Kernici I leaue the Reader to iudge Of the Iles of Scotland ingenerall NOw resteth it to speake somewhat of the Iles the part of all the Brittaine History inuolued in greatest errours We will leaue the most ancient writers of whom we haue no certaintie and follow that which men of our owne time more truely and clearely haue written They diuide all the Iles which as it were crowne Scotland in three classes or ranks the West Iles Orkenay Iles and Shetland Iles. They call them West that lie in the Deucalidon sea from Ireland almost to Orknay vpon the West side of Scotland They that either in our Fathers daies or ours haue written any thing of Brittayne call these Iles Hebrides a new name indeede whereof they bring neither ground nor euidence from the ancient writers Some writers haue placed Aebudae Aemode or Acmode in that part of that Sea But so diuersly that they scarcely agree either in the number the situation or names Strabo to begin at him as most auncient perchance may be pardoned for that in his time that part of the world was not sufficiently explored and he therefore hath