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A65012 The travels of Sig. Pietro della Valle, a noble Roman, into East-India and Arabia Deserta in which, the several countries, together with the customs, manners, traffique, and rites both religious and civil, of those Oriental princes and nations, are faithfully described : in familiar letters to his friend Signior Mario Schipano : whereunto is added a relation of Sir Thomas Roe's Voyage into the East-Indies.; Viaggi. Part 3. English Della Valle, Pietro, 1586-1652.; Roe, Thomas, Sir, 1581?-1644.; Havers, G. (George) 1665 (1665) Wing V47; ESTC R7903 493,251 479

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to the Governor and also to a Jew his Minister which was afterwards given to them both After dinner Captain Fort Commander of the French Ship S. Anne wherein I was to imbarque came a shore and I agreed with him to go aboard that night though he puposed to stay two or three dayes longer in expectation of more lading before he set sail Accordingly after I had written to Aleppo and supp'd in the House of Sig Antonio Grandi I was carry'd aboard by the said Captain with all my people and onely those few goods which I had brought with me from Aleppo leaving all the rest to be first receiv'd by the said Sig Antonio and then convey'd to me by Sea more at leisure Thus after many years I quitted the Continent of Asia with a certain Resolution never to set foot upon it again unless arm'd and began my Voyage towards my desired Italy there being with me of Women Batoni Mariam Tinatin a Giorgian Virgin and faithful Companion of most of my Peregrinations Eugenia an Indian Maid of Scilan and of Men F. Fra Gregorio Orsino Vicar General of Armenia and my Servants Michel di Bengala commended to me at Goa by Sig Antonio Barraccio Giovan Robehh a Chaldean of Kiumalava and the two Syrians recommended to me by that Arch-Bishop namely Abdisciva and Hendi Nestorians August the nine and twentieth All my other goods together with the Coffin of Sitti Maani conceal'd in a ball of Cotton yarn were imbarqu'd thanks be to God without any disturbance The next day I took the height of the Sun in the Port of Alexandretta and found him decline at noon from the Zenith 28 degrees He was that day in the degree of Virgo The same day by the advice of Sig Antonio Grandi to prevent all further troubles which might arise from new searching of my goods and payment of half Gabels in case I should exchange the Ship wherein I was for a Flemish Vessel call'd the Neptune as I had formerly intended to do at Cyprus I determin'd to continue in the same Ship till I came either to Malta or Sicily and the rather because the Captain was a Person to my liking and all his people honest Catholicks with whom I promis'd my self most satisfaction Besides though the Flemish Ship was greater better arm'd and accompany'd with two others and consequently as to danger of Pirats more safe yet 't was known too that the Flemmings were at Truce with the Pirats and sometimes will not fight with them but being secure not to lose any thing of their own use to submit to them and let them take all the goods of other people that they have in their Ships without the least contest So that I had some reason not to trust my self with them although much perswaded thereunto by the Master of the Ship because perhaps in such case they would not have much car'd for securing me whom they hated upon the account of Religion On the other side though the French Ship wherein I imbarqu'd was small and unprovided of Artillery yet it was an excellent Sailer and safe enough from being overtaken by any Pirate provided it descry'd him first at a little distance and had but the least advantage For which purpose a Man was constantly plac'd upon the main-sail to make discoveries and as for being surpriz'd by the Pirats without fore-seeing them as 't was possible we might be in a Morning at day-break falling among them unawares so we hop'd God would preserve us from such misfortune Of this change of my Resolution I gave account in my Letters to Aleppo and I mention it here to the end that it may appear that my passing into Italy in so small and disarm'd a Ship was not folly or rashness as perhaps it may otherwise seem but a considerate determination prudently made upon weighty and important Reasons Accordingly after Sig Antonio Grandi had presented us many refreshments for the Voyage the same Evening a little before night we set sail September the first In the Evening we pass'd by Capo Chanzir or as 't is now commonly call'd Capo Porco lying thirty miles from Alexandretta and the next Evening we discover'd the Island of Cyprus where we were to touch and stay some dayes September the third In the Morning we doubled the Cape of S. Andrea on the South of the said Island being to put in at Porto della Saline or the Port of the Salt-pits which is now the principal and most frequented landing-place of Cyprus September the fourth We enter'd the said Port which lyes on the South part of Cyprus in a large Bay surrounded with Land spacious and secure enough for all sort of Ships It lyes two hundred miles from Alexandretta and is the Port where the Turkish Army landed when they took the Island As soon as we had enter'd we were visited in the Ship by Sig Dimitrio Todorini a prime Greek Merchant but not a Cypriot who offer'd me his House and Sig Giovan Francesco Parente a Venetian my ancient Friend and correspondent in Aleppo from whence upon certain discontents befallen him there he had betaken himself hither who visited me not onely upon his own account but also in the Name of Sig Alessandro Goneme the Venetian Consul in that Island who excus'd his not coming in Person for that he was just then call'd away by the Cadhi upon a certain business September the fifth The said Venetian Consul with Sig Parente and some others of his House visited me in the Ship And though I intended not to go ashore notwithstanding all his intreaties and invitations yet he resolutely refus'd to depart till I went with him Wherefore I obey'd him and went onely with one servant leaving F. Orsino and the Women in the Ship On the seaside I found some few dwellings and magazines or storehouses which are those that they properly call delle Saline from the Salt-pits hard by where the Turks have a small square Castle with a Plat-form and Artillery to guard the Sea but of little importance Here taking Horse we rode a little mile within Land to another Village call'd Larnaca where the Franks live for the most part and there we alighted at the Consul's House And because it was yet early after a little repose we went to the Franciscan's Church call'd Santa Maria and there heard Mass which was sung with the Office pro mortuis for the Soul of Sig Giovan Maria Parente Brother to Sig Francesco who the day before pass'd to a better Life In the Evening I visited Sig Dimitrio Todorini in his own House and lodg'd in that of the Consul I will not omit that the Venetians have alwayes a Consul at Cyprus who is not of the Nobility but of the Order of Eminent Citizens whereof many Secretaries of the Republick use to be so that though the Consul of Cyprus be not dependent upon him of Aleppo as Vice-Consuls are yet he of Aleppo as noble and a more principal Minister in these
shore of Africa for in the dayes of Solomon the Art of Navigation was not known and Sea-men then steering without Cart or Compass were necessitated to keep the neighbouring Land alwayes in their sights as without question those Ships did and to those fore-mention'd places stored as is related above other parts of Africa with those richest Commodities I might have taken notice before but yet it will not be unseasonable of many sudden strong and violent Gusts of wind frequently to be observed in those South-west Seas which surprize a Ship so suddenly that if she have many sails abroad and the Mariners be not very watchful and nimble to strike them their strength is such that they will endanger her overturning And to these there are many strange watery Clouds they call Spouts which appear like a Funnel or water-tankard very large and big at the one end but small on the other which hangs lowest and of a very great length They contain a great Quantity of water wrapt together by a whirl-wind that falls within a very narrow Compass the abundance whereof by its great weight if it fall directly as sometimes it doth upon the body of a small Ship it will much endanger it and would do much more harm but that these Spouts when they are seen may be easily avoided From the Island of Madagascar we proceeded on in our Course and the fifth of August following approached near the little Islands of Mohilia Gazadia St. John de Castro with some others whose Name I know not called in general the Islands of Comora lying about twelve Degrees South of the Equator The day following being the sixth of August Early in the Morning our Men looking out for Land espied a Sail which stood directly in our Course but far before us at first sight she appeared as if there had been some great Hill interposed betwixt us For first we had sight only of her Colours in her high Maintop after this of her Masts and Sails and then of her Hull after which manner Ships at Sea do every where appear at great distance one to another which proves that that mighty Collection of waters called Seas have a Convex or Globous and round body placed by Almighty God as it were in Hills or Heaps and being being above the earth and higher than it they have set Limits and commanded they are to their Bounds contrary to their Nature which they may not pass for so saith the Psalmist Psalm 104.9 Thou hast set a bound which they may not pass over that they return not again to cover the earth But this is known to all that have been at Sea therefore we proceed Upon the first sight of that Ship we were all glad of the object improving all endeavours we could to overtake her with-all preparing our great Ordnance that if she were a Friend we might salute her if an Enemy be in readiness for her So eagerly pursuing this unlooked for Ship with the wings of the wind after that we had given her Chase about five hours her Colours and bulk discovered her to be a very great Portugal Caraque bound for Goa lying in the skirts of East-India and principally inhabited by Portugals the City of Residence for the Vice-Roy to the King of Spain her Commander called Don Emanuel de Meneces a brave Resolute Man as the sequent will demonstrate About noon the Globe our least Ship by reason of her nimbleness sailing better then her fellows came up with her on her broad side to wind-ward and according to the Custom of the Sea hayl'd her asking whence she was she answer'd indirectly Of the Sea calling our Men Rogues Thieves Hereticks Devils and the Conclusion of her rude Complement was in loud Cannon Language discharging seven great Pieces of Artillery at our Globe though she had very little reason so to do we having four Ships in Company and she alone whereof six pierced her through the Hull maiming some of her Men but killing none our Globe replyed in the same voice and after that fell off About three of the Clock in the Afternoon the Charles our Admiral came up with her so near that we were within pistol shot our Commander Captain Joseph proceeded religiously in offering them a Treaty before he proceeded to Revenge so we saluted her with our Trumpets she us with her wind Instruments then we shewed our Men on both sides aloft this done our Commander called to them requiring Theirs to come aboard to give an account for the injury they had lately before offered us they answered They had never a Boat our Commander replyed that he would send them one and immediately caused his Barge to be man'd and sent off to them which brought back one of their Officers and two others of inferior rank with this message from their Captain how that he had promised the King of Spain his Master not to leave his Ship and therefore forc'd he might be but never would be Commanded out of her Captain Joseph received the Message and used those that brought it Civilly and then ordered that they should be shewed in a broad side of great Guns that lay all ready prim'd to be fir'd against them how we were prepar'd to vindicate our selves which put the poor Portugals into a fit of trembling and upon it desir'd our Commander to write a few words to theirs that happily with their perswasion might make him come Captain Joseph willing to preserve his Honour to prevent blood consented and forthwith caused a few lines in Spanish to this effect to be wrote unto him That Whereas he the Commander of the Carraque had offered violence to our Ship that sail'd peaceably by him he will'd him to come presently and give a reason for that wrong or else at his perill So he discharged those Portugals sending one of our Masters Mates back with them with those few words and this further message that if he refused to come he would sink by his side but that he would force him before he left him Morientium verba sunt prophetica his words came to pass for he himself suddenly after fell by a great Shot that came from the Caraques side The Commander of the Caraque notwithstanding the Message and Menace sent to him was still peremptory in his first answer So our Men returning Captain Joseph himself made the three first Shot at them all which the mark being so fair and near hit them this done the Bullets began to flie on both sides our Captain cheering his Company immediately ascended the half Deck the place where Commanders use to keep in those Encounters to shew their own Gallantry and to encourage the Company under their Command where he had not been the Eighth part of an hour ere a great Shot from the Caraques quarter deprived him of Life in the twinkling of an Eye For this Captain Joseph he was certainly one who had very much of a Man in him for years ancient who had
which was pretty stiff although not much favourable to our course However we went onwards plying from the coast of Arabia to that of Persia and on Saturday morning as we drew near the Arabian shore we saw three small Islands situate near one another and not far from a certain Cape the name of which and the Islands they could not tell me so as that I might set it down truly whereby I perceiv'd how it comes to pass that many names of places in these parts are very corruptly written in Geographical Charts for in the Countries themselves where commerce is had for the most part with rude and ignorant people few of them know how to pronounce the same aright On Sunday we went from our Ship to recreate our selves in the Dolphin our companion where the Captain entertain'd us liberally all day In the mean time we had a good fresh gale and sailing directly in the middle of the gulf we beheld both the coasts of Arabia Felix and Persia and in the latter discern'd a famous white Rock which standing in the midst of a low sandy shore looks like a little hill made by hand We pass'd the Cape which they call in Persian Com barick that is small sand and the next night we left behind us the point or peak of Giasck On Monday the Sea being calm the Captain and I were standing upon the deck of our ship discoursing of sundry matters and he took occasion to shew me a piece of a Horn which he told me himself had found in the year 1611. in a Northern Country whither he then sail'd which they call Greenland lying in the latitude of seventy six degrees He related how he found this horn in the earth being probably the horn of some Animal dead there and that when it was intire it was between five and six feet long and seven inches in circumference at the root where it was thickest The piece which I saw for the horn was broken and sold by pieces in several places was something more then half a span long and little less then five inches thick the colour of it was white inclining to yellow like that of Ivory when it is old it was hollow and smooth within but wreath'd on the outside The Captain saw not the Animal nor knew whether it were of the land or the sea for according to the place where he found it it might be as well one as the other but he believ'd for certain that it was of a Unicorn both because the experience of its being good against poyson argu'd so much and for that the signes attributed by Authors to the Unicorn's horn agreed also to this as he conceiv'd But herein I dissent from him inasmuch as if I remember aright the horn of the Unicorn whom the Greeks call'd Monoceros is by Pliny describ'd black and not white The Captain added that it was a report that Unicorns are found in certain Northern parts of America not far from that Country of Greenland and so not unlikely but that there might be some also in Greenland a neighbouring Country and not yet known whether it be Continent or Island and that they might sometimes come thither from the contiguous lands of America in case it be no Island This Country of Greenland is of late discovery and the first Christian that discover'd it or went thither was this Captain Woodcock in the year above-mention'd and he gave it the name of Greenland upon this account because whereas the other Northern Countries thereabouts are destitute of grass whence the white Bears and Wolves which inhabit them live upon dead Whales and other like things he found this green and full of Grass although it be always cover'd over with Snow so that when the Animals there mind to feed they hollow the snow with their feet and easily find the grass which is kept continually fresh under the same The English now yearly sail thither where they take abundance of Whales and some so vast that when they open the mouth the wideness is above three Geometrical paces or fifteen foot over Of these Whales the English make Oyle drawing it onely out of the fat of their paunch and they make such plenty that out of one single Whale they say they often get 19 20 and 21 Tun of Oyl This Greenland by what Captain Woodcock saw who discover'd it from the end of seventy six degrees to seventy eight and a half the cold not suffering him to go further was un-inhabited he not having found any person there but only wild beasts of many sorts The Company of the Greenland Merchants of England had the horn which he found because Captains of ships are their stipendiaries and besides their salary must make no other profit of their Voyages but what ever they gain or find in case it be known and they conceal it not all accrues to the Company that employes them When the Horn was intire it was sent to Constantinople to be sold where two thousand pounds Sterling was offer'd for it But the English Company hoping to get a greater rate sold it not at Constantinople but sent it into Muscovy where much about the same price was bidden for it which being refus'd it was carry'd back into Turkey and fell of its value a much less sum being now proffer'd then before Hereupon the Company conceiv'd that it would sell more easily in pieces then intire because few could be found who would purchase it at so great a rate Accordingly they broke it and it was sold by pieces in sundry places yet for all this the whole proceed amounted onely to about twelve hundred pounds Sterling And of these pieces they gave one to the Captain who found it and this was it which he shew'd me On the 25. of January sailing in the main Sea with the prow of the Ship South East and by East and as I conceive at a good distance from the Country of Macran which I conjecture to be part either of the ancient Caramania or else of Gedrosia and at this day having a Prince of its own lyes upon the Sea Coast between the States of the Persian and those of the Moghol we discern'd behind us three or four Ships which seem'd to be Frigots or Galliots but towards Evening we lost sight of them The same day and the other before began to be seen in the Sea abundance of certain things which I took to be Snakes or at least fishes in the form of Snakes being exactly of the form of large Eeles long and round and according to the motion of the water seem'd crooked as they floated along the Sea Nevertheless demanding of intelligent persons what they were I understood that they were neither those Animals nor yet living things but onely a kind of excrement of the Sea in that shape void of all motion saving what the agitated water gave it although by reason of the motion of the ship they seem'd to move contrary to us whilst
to speak In Daman I had from the Jesuits two considerable pieces of News First that the two English Ships which as I said were sent from Suràt before my departure thence upon some unknown design went to Dabul under pretext of Peace and Friendship as if to traffick in that Port and that the Moors of Dabul had spread Carpets and prepar'd a handsome entertainment for the principals upon shore but the English having fairly landed suddenly got to certain pieces of Ordnance which were there and nail'd them up then putting their hands to their Arms began to fall upon the people of the City who upon this sudden unexpected onset betook themselves to flight and were likely to receive great dammage but at length a Portugal Factor and some few others making head against the English and animating the Citizens to do the like turn'd the scale of the victory and in a short time beat out all the English killing many of them and constraining the rest to fly away with their Ships who nevertheless in their flight took two Vessels of Dabul which were in the Port richly laden but unprovided as in a secure place which was no small dammage to the City and afforded a rich booty to the English This action I conceive was done by the English out of some old grudge against the City of Dabul or perhaps onely to force it to permit them free Trade and they use deal to thus with such ports as will not admit them thereunto The other News was that Prete Janni King of Aethiopia and the Abissins was by means of the Jesuits reconcil'd to the Roman Church and become a good Catholick intending that his whole Country should do the same which if true is indeed a thing of great consequence March the seven and twentieth About noon we departed from Daman towards Bassaim in the same Barque or Almadia and sail'd all the day at night in regard of the contrary current and danger of Pirats who cannot easily be seen and avoided in the dark we cast Anchor under a place call'd Daniè March the eight and twentieth Continuing our course in the Morning we espy'd some Ships which we suspected to be Pirats of Malabar and therefore fetching a compass we made but little way forwards At night we cast Anchor in a Bay call'd Kielme-Mahi from two Towns situate upon it one call'd Kielme the other Mahi On the nine and twentieth of the same moneth we sail'd forward again but the Tide turning contrary we cast Anchor about noon and stay'd a while in a little Island near the Continent The sails being mended and the current become favourable we set forward again and having pass'd by some Vessels which we doubted to be Pirats of Malabar about night we arriv'd at Bassaim But lest the people of the Fleet which we found there with the Cafila should molest our Boat as sometimes 't is usual and take away the Sea-men for the service of the Navy we stay'd a while without the City casting Anchor a little wide of the shore and in the mean time I sent notice to F. Diego Rodriguez Rector of the Colledge of Jesuits at Bassaim for whom I had Letters from the Father Rector of their Colledge at Daman and some also for others from the Brother of theirs whom I saw in Cambaia The F. Rector sent presently to the Sea-side where I was F. Gaspar di Govea their Procurator who because 't was said the Fleet would depart that very night with the Cafila for Goa immediately without entring into the City procur'd me passage in a Merchants Frigat as more commodious for passengers in regard 't was free from the trouble of Souldiers which went in the Men of War appointed to convoy the Merchants Ships The Captain of the Vessel wherein I embark'd was call'd Diego Carvaglio with whom having agreed for my passage I presently put my Goods aboard his Ship together with Mariam Tinatin in the most convenient Cabin and Cacciatùr to take care of them It being now night I went alone with F. Govea to their Colledge to visit and thank the F. Rector and the other Fathers who very courteously retain'd me at Supper which ended to avoid the danger of being left behind I forthwith return'd to repose in the Ship Of the City Bassaim I cannot say any thing because it was night both at my entrance stay and coming away I can onely intimate that it is wholly surrounded with strong walls and if I took good notice seems to me greater then Daman but of late years many buildings were destroy'd by a horrible tempest and are not yet re-edifi'd I found in the Colledge of Bassaim F. Paolo Giovio an Italian March the thirtieth In the Morning the Fleet set sail and going off the shore we came to the Island where they take in fresh water over against a City in view at a little distance which they call Salsette and the place where we stay'd being a large and populous Island is call'd in the Portugal Tongue L' Aguada and here we stay'd all day because the wind was so contrary that we could not get off that point of Land and for that divers of the Galeots and new Frigats built to be sent and arm'd in Goa were not in order to depart and we were forc'd to stay their preparation March the one and thirtieth At Sun-rise we put to Sea for Goa but were slow in getting forth to the Main before we could set sail because the Tide was still going out and there was so little water left that our Frigat run a ground At length the Tide turning we row'd out of the streit between the City and the Island and being come into the broad Sea hois'd all our sails About mid-night following we arriv'd at Ciaùl but enter'd not into the Port because it stands much within Land upon a precipice where the Sea entring far into the Bay between the Hills and the low Shore into which also is descharg'd the mouth of a River makes an ample and secure harbour wherefore by reason of the darkness of the night which in this place is no seasonable time the Fleet would not enter but we rode at the Rivers mouth till break of day April the first Entring into the Port in the Morning we cast Anchor under the City upon the shore where nevertheless the water is so deep and our Galeots came so near the bank that we went ashore by a bridge In the entrance of the City and Haven on the right hand almost Southwards we saw that famous Hill which the Portugals call Morro di Ciaùl commanding the Harbour and all the adjacent City on the top of it stands a strong Castle which was sometimes possess'd by the Moors of Dacàn namely by Nizam-Schiah to whom also the whole Territory about it belongs and when the said King made war with the Portugals the Moors did great mischief to them from the top of this Mountain and another which stands near
who now reigns some years ago poyson'd his own eldest Son as suspected of being likely to become one day a disturber of the Common-wealth and the publick quiet being displeas'd with him onely because he once with too much freedom perswaded him to deny the Moghòl the accustom'd Tribute saying that with the Tribute alone which he pay'd voluntarily he durst undertake to make a mighty war upon him and never pay him Tribute more which if true was certainly in this Prince a strange effect of fear This Adil-Sciah hath marry'd one of his Daughters to Cutb-Sciah and with Nizam-Sciah he constantly maintains and frequently renews alliance so that they are all three fast friends and firmly united together I have also heard that Adil-Sciah uses to wear his Beard very long contrary to the other two who are shaven after the mode of Persia and India They say the present Ibrahim Adil-Sciah is infirm by reason of a great hurt receiv'd by a Wolf in his hips so that he cannot ride on Horse-back and hence perhaps it is that he is so peaceable and timerous infirmities undoubtedly much dejecting the spirits of Men. All these three Princes are Moors as I said before although their Countries abound with innumerable Gentiles Cutb-Sciah alone as I have heard is Sciani of the Sect of the Persians but the other two I conceive are Sonni as the Turks and the Moghòl which yet I affirm not because I have not perfect certainty thereof The King of Persia cherishes all these three Princes sufficiently and they have great correspondence by interchangeable Ambassies and Presents all which is onely in reference to make greater opposition to the Moghòl upon whom they border and whose greatness is equally prejudiciall to them all And so much may suffice concerning them April the fifth We set sail again and in the Afternoon pass'd by the City Dabùl which belongs to the Dominions of Adil-Sciah and stands hid amongst Hills in a low Plain so that 't is scarcely seen After which we pass'd within two Leagues of a Point or Promontory which the Portugals call Dabùl falso because it deceives such as come from far by Sea making them take it for the Point of Dabùl to which it resembles At Night we cast Anchor near another shore which they call the Gulph or Bay or as the Portugals speak A Enceada dos Bramanes because the Country thereabouts is inhabited by many Brachmans April the sixth We set sail and first pass'd by Ragiapùr then by Carapetan About two hours before night we cast Anchor in an Enceada or Bay which they call Calosì or Caloscì not far from the Point of Carapetan April the seventh In the Morning we pass'd by Tambona which was the Country of the Mariners of our Ship and toward Evening by the Rocks which the Portugals call Los Illeos quemados that is The burnt Rocks because they appear such by their colour and inequality and we continu'd sailing all Night every Ship going as they pleas'd without caring for the company of the Fleet now that by reason of the great nearness of Goa we were in safety April the eighth Arriving before Day at the shore of Goa we began to enter into the salt River or Rio as they speak of salt water which the Portugals call Barra di Goa upon the mouth of which River which is sufficiently broad stand two Forts one on each side with good pieces of Artillery planted upon them to defend the Entrance 'T is to be known that the City of Goa at this day the Head of all the Dominion of the Portugals in India is situate here in one of these Islands of which as I said before there are innumerable upon all the Coast of India made by the several Rivers which divide them from the main-main-land The City is built in the inmost part of the Island toward the Continent and therefore the whole Island is plentifully inhabited with Towns and places of Recreation and particularly upon the River which is on either side adorn'd with Buildings and Houses surrounded with Groves of Palm-Trees and delightful Gardens The greatest part of the Island is inclos'd with a Wall with Gates at the places for passage continually guarded for security against the attempts of Neighbours and also to prevent the flight of Slaves and Thefts since onely that River being cross'd you enter presently into the Territory of Adil-Sciah and the Moors but 't is otherwise toward the Sea-side for all the Coast which is beset with other small Islands and Pen-insula's for a good space belongs to the Portugals being inhabited with Towns and divers Churches The City which lyes on the right hand of the River as you enter into the inmost recess is sufficiently large built partly on a Plain and partly upon certain pleasant Hills from the tops whereof the whole Island and the Sea are discover'd with a very delightful prospect The buildings of the City are good large and convenient contriv'd for the most part for the benefit of the wind and fresh Air which is very necessary in regard of the great heats and also for reception of the great Rains of the three Moneths of Pausecal which are June July and August which not upon account of the heat although it be very great at that time but greatest of all in May when the Sun is in the Zenith but of the great Rain the Portugals call the Winter of the Earth Nevertheless the buildings have not much ornament or exquisiteness of Art but are rather plain and almost all without beautifyings The best are the Churches of which many are held here by several Religions as Augustines Dominicans Franciscans discalceated Carmelites and Jesuits with double and very numerous Covents and indeed half of the Religious that are here would suffice for a City bigger then Goa But besides these there are also many of Secular Priests and Parishes and Chappels and lastly the See or Cathedral which nevertheless is neither the fairest nor the greatest Church of that City there being many others that exceed it The See of Goa at the time of my being there was not finish'd but scarce above half built and thence seem'd to me small and less stately but having since seen the intire design of the structure I conceive that when 't is finish'd 't will be a very goodly Church The people is numerous but the greatest part are slaves a black and lewd generation going naked for the most part or else very ill clad seeming to me rather a disparagement then an ornament to the City Portugals there are not many they us'd to be sufficiently rich but of late by reason of many losses by the incursions of the Dutch and English in these Seas they have not much wealth but are rather poor Nevertheless they live in outward appearance with splendor enough which they may easily do both in regard of the plentifulness of the Country and because they make a shew of all that they have however in
a Mascherade I also bore a part in the solemnity out of my devotion to the new Saint and according to the liberty which every one took of habiting himself as he pleas'd I put my self into the garb of an Arabian Gentleman of the Desart which was accounted very brave and gallant I accompany'd with Sig Antonino Son of Sig Antonio Paraccio my friend a youth of about twelve years old who was one of those who went in the day time to the Vice-Roy and I cloth'd him in a Persian Habit of mine which I had brought from Persia or rather like a noble Chizilbase Souldier very odd and brave so that we two were a sufficiently delightful spectacle to the whole City May the one and twentieth In the Morning the Bare-footed Fathers sung in their Church a solemn Mass in gratiarum actionem for the above-said Canonization of Santa Teresia upon whose praises an Augustine Father made an eloquent Sermon the Vice-Roy and a multitude of people being present thereat May the three and twentieth The Sun entring into Gemini I observ'd that the Rain begun in Goa and it happens not alike in all the Coast of India for it begins first in the more Southerly parts of Capo Comorni and follows afterwards by degrees according as places extend more to the North so that in Cambaia and other more northern parts it begins later then in Goa and the further any place lyes North the later it begins there Whence it comes to pass that in the Persian Ephemerides or Almanacks they use to set down the beginning of Parscecal or the time of Rain in India at the fifteenth of their third moneth call'd Cordad which falls upon the third of our June because they have observ'd it in the more Northern parts of India as in Cambaia Suràt and the like where the Persians have more commerce then in other more Southern places In Goa likewise for the most part the beginning of the Rain is in the first days of June yet sometimes it anticipates and sometimes falls something later with little difference 'T is observ'd by long experience that this Rain in India after having lasted some days at first ceases and there return I know not how many days of fair weather but those being pass'd it begins again more violent then ever and continues for a long time together By this Rain as I observ'd the heat diminisheth and the Earth which before was very dry and all naked becomes cloth'd with new verdure and various colours of pleasant flowers and especially the Air becomes more healthful sweet and more benigne both to sound and infirm The arm of the Sea or River which encompasses the Island of Goa and is ordinarily salt notwithstanding the falling of the other little fresh Rivers into it with the inundation of great streams which through the great Rain flow from the circumjacent Land is made likewise wholly fresh whence the Country-people who wait for this time derive water out of it for their Fields of Rice in the Island of Goa and the neighbouring parts which being temper'd with this sweet moisture on a suddain become all green June the first I spoke first to the Vice-Roy of Goa Don Francesco da Gama Count of Bidigucira Admiral of the Indian Sea and Grand-son of that D. Vasco de Gama who discover'd East-India in which this Don Francesco was sometimes Vice-Roy and was once taken captive in Africa with King Sebastian I delay'd seeing him so long because I was busi'd for a Moneth after my arrival in changing my Habit and providing a House so that I went not abroad besides that the Vice-Roy was likewise employ'd many days after in dispatching the Fleets which went to China and Zeilan and after they were gone he retir'd to a place out of Goa to recreate himself for many days so that I had no opportunity sooner I presented to him two Letters from Rome which I brought directed to his Predecessor in my recommendation one from Sig Cardinal Crescentio and the other from the Duke of Albaquerque then Ambassador at Rome for the Catholick King and he without reading them in my presence said that without that recommendation he should have express'd all fiting Civilities to me and that he was glad to see and know me with many other Complements and courteous offers He had no long discourse with me because many other Portugal Gentlemen of the Council and other persons of the Government expected to have Audience but when I went away he told F. Morigad the Jesuit his Confessor who introduc'd me that at a more convenient opportunity he desir'd to talk with me more at length of the things of Persia and that he would send for me and in the mean time desir'd a writing in discourse which I had made a few days before concerning the Warrs of Persia of which his said Confessor who had seen it had given him notice wherefore I gave it to him with my own hand as I had written it in my Native Tuscan Tongue and F. Morigad gave him the Translation of it made by himself into the Portugal Tongue being the Vice-Roy did not understand the Italian June the ninth In the Colledge of the Jesuits was pronounc'd as 't is the custom every year a Latin Oration for the Inchoation of the Readings which the vacations being ended with the hot weather begin again with the Rain and cool weather Letters from some Banians were brought to Goa signifying that the Moghòl had enounter'd with his Rebel Sultàn Chorròm and routed him and that Sultàn Chorròm after his defeat was retir'd to a strong hold in the top of a Mountain which they call Mandù and that his Father had besieg'd them there June the four and twentieth being the Feast of Saint John Baptist The Vice-Roy with many other Portugal persons of quality as 't is the yearly custom in Goa rode through the City in Habits of Masquert but without Vizards two and two alike or three and three and having heard Mass in the Church of Saint John he came into the street of Saint Paul which they are wont to call La Carriera de' Cavalli and is the best place in Goa Here after many Companies of Canarine Christians of the Country had march'd by with their Ensignes Drums and Arms leaping and playing along the streets with their naked Swords in their Hands for they are all Foot at length all the Cavaliers run two carriers on Horse-back one downwards from the Church of Saint Paul towards the City and the other upwards running matches of two to two or three to three according as their attire agreed with their Morisco Cymiters and at last they came all down marching together in order and so went to the Piazza of the Vice-Roys Palace and so the solemnity ended I stood to see this shew in the same street of Saint Paul in the House of one whom they call King of the Islands of Maldiva or Maladiva which are an innumerable company of
small Islands almost all united together lying in a long square form towards the West not far from the Coast of India of which Islands one of this Man's Ancestors was really King but being driven out of his Dominion by his own people fled to the Portugals and turn'd Christian with hopes of recovering his Kingdom by their help Yet the Portugals never attempted any thing in his behalf and so he and his descendents remain depriv'd of the Kingdom enjoying onely the naked Title which the Portugals being now ally'd to him still give him and because many Merchants Ships come from those Islands to trade in the Ports of the Portugals they force the said Ships to pay a small matter of Tribute to him as their lawful Sovereign of which though the Governours of Ports to whom upon necessity he must entrust purloin above half from him nevertheless he gets at this day by it about three thousand Crowns yearly and therewith supports himself The like Fates have befallen many other Princes in India who hoping in the Portugals have found themselves deluded Wherein Reason of State is but ill observ'd by the Portugals because by this proceeding they have discourag'd all others from having confidence in them whereas had they assisted and protected them as they ought and might easily and with small charge have done upon sundry fair occasions they would by this time have got the love of all India and themselves would by the strength and help of their Friends undoubtedly have become more potent as also without comparison more fear'd by their Enemies June the nine and twentieth This year the Moors began their Ramadhan according to the Rules of my Calculation July the five and twentieth being the Feast of Saint James the Protector of Spain was solemnis'd with the same gallantry of Cariers and Dresses as are above describ'd saving that the Vice-Roy heard Mass in the Church of St. James In the Evening I went with Sig Ruy Gomez Boraccio a Priest and Brother of Sig Antonio Baroccio to the Church of Saint James which stands somewhat distant without the City upon the edge of the Island towards the main Land of Adil-Sciàh which is on the other side of a little River or Arm of the Sea For which reason the Island is in this as well as many other dangerous places fortifi'd with strong walls and here there is a Gate upon the pass which is almost full of people going and coming from the main Land and is call'd by the Indians Benastarni by which name some of our Historians mention it in their writings concerning these parts as Osorius Maffaeus c. which Gate as likewise many others which are upon divers places of passage about the Island is guarded continually with Souldiers commanded by a Captain who hath the care thereof and for whom there is built a fine House upon the walls of the Island which in this place are very high forming a kind of Bastion or rather a Cavaliero or mount for Ordnance not very well design'd but sufficiently strong wherein are kept pieces of Artillery for defence of the place We went to visit the said Captain who was then Sig Manoel Pereira de la Gerda and from the high Balconies of his House and the Bastion we enjoy'd the goodly prospect of the Fields round about both of the Island and the Continent being discernable to a great distance The Captain entertain'd us with the Musick of his three Daughters who sung and play'd very well after the Portugal manner upon the Lute after which we return'd home About the Church of Saint James are some few habitations in form of a little Town which is also call'd Santiago and the way from thence to the City is a very fine walk the Country being all green and the way-sides beset with Indian Nut-trees which the Portugals call Palms and their fruit Cocco the Gardens and Houses of Pleasure on either side contributing to the delightfulness thereof being full of sundry fruit-trees unknown to us as also because in Winter-time the very walls of the Gardens are all green with moss and other herbs growing there which indeed is one of the pleasantest sights that I have seen in my days and the rather because 't is natural and without artifice The same happens I believe not in this Island onely but in all the Region round about In the field adjoyning to the City near the ruines of a deserted building once intended for a Church but never finish'd is a work of the Gentiles sometimes Lords of this Country namely one of the greatest Wells that ever I beheld round and about twenty of my Paces in Diametre and very deep it hath Parapets or Walls breast-high round about with two Gates at one of which is a double pair of stairs leading two ways to the bottom to fetch water when it is very low July the six and twentieth I went out of the City to a place of pleasure in the Island where was a Church of Saint Anna to which there was a great concourse of people because it was her Festival This Church stands very low built amongst many Country dwellings partly of the Islanders who live there and partly of the Portugals who have Houses of Pleasure there to spend a moneth for recreation The place is very delightful amongst Palmetoes and Groves of other Trees and the way leading to it is extreamly pleasant all cover'd with green After I had heard Mass here Sig Giovanni da Costa de Menecas a Friend of mine whom I found there carry'd me to dine with him at the House of a Vicar or Parish-Priest of another Church not far distant and of small Building which they call Santa Maria di Loreto where we spent the whole day in conversation with the said Vicar and other Friends At night because it rain'd I caus'd my self to be carry'd home in one of those Carriages which the Portugals call Rete being nothing else but a net of cords ty'd at the head and feet and hanging down from a great Indian Cane in which Net which is of the length of a Man and so wide that opening in the middle for the two ends are ty'd fast to the Cane 't is capable of one person a Man lyes along very conveniently with a cushion under his head although somewhat crooked to wit with the feet and head advanc'd towards the Ligatures and the middle part of the body more pendulous under the Cane which is carry'd upon the shoulders of two men before and two behind if the person be light or the way short two Men onely bear it one before and the other behind These Nets are different from the Palanchini and the Andòr for in these from the Cane hang not nets but litters like little beds upon which a Man sits with his legs stretch'd forth or half lying along upon cushions and so is carry'd very conveniently Moreover the Palanchini and the Andòr differ from one another for that in
one Gau consists of two Cos and is equivalent to two Portugal Leagues we lodg'd at night in a competent Town the name whereof is Dermapora In these Towns I endeavor'd to procure me a servant as well because I understood not the Language of the Country for though he that carry'd my Goods could speak Portugal yet he could not well serve me for an Interpreter because being by Race a Pulià which amongst them is accounted vile and unclean they would not suffer him to come into their Houses nor touch their things though they were not shie of me albeit of a different Religion because they look'd upon me as a Man of noble Race as for that I found much trouble in reference to my dyet For these Indians are extreamly fastidious in edibles there is neither flesh nor fish to be had amongst them one must be contented onely with Rice Butter or Milk and other such inanimate things wherewith nevertheless they make no ill-tasted dishes but which is worse they will cook every thing themselves and will not let others either eat or drink in their vessels wherefore instead of dishes they gave us our victuals in great Palm leavs which yet are smooth enough and the Indians themselves eat more frequently in them then in any other vessels Besides one must entreat them three hours for this and account it a great favor so that in brief to travel in these Countries requires a very large stock of patience The truth is 't is a most crafty invention of the Devil against the Charity so much preach'd by our Lord Jesus Christ to put it so in the heads of these people that they are polluted and become unclean even by touching others of a different Religion of which superstition they are so rigorous observers that they will sooner see a person whom they account vile and unclean though a Gentile dye then go near him to relieve him November the four and twentieth In the Morning before day the Brachman Nangasà and the Ambassador's other Men being in haste advanc'd before but I desirous to go more at my own ease remain'd alone with my Pulià and the Hackney-master as I might well enough do since the High-ways of Naieka's Country are very secure The road lay over pleasant clifts of Hills and through Woods many great streams likewise occurring I descended the Mountain Gat by a long precipice some of which I was fain to walk a foot my Horse having fallen twice without any disaster and by a third fall almost broke my Knee to pieces I din'd after I had travelled one Gau and a half in a good Town called Colùr where there is a great Temple the Idol whereof if I mis-understood not is the Image of a Woman the place is much venerated and many resort to it from several parts in Pilgrimage After dinner my Horse being tired I travelled not above half another Gau and having gone in all this day but two Gau's went to lodg at a certain little village which they said was called Nalcàl Certain Women who dwelt there alone in absence of their Husbands courteously gave us lodging in the uncovered Porches of their Houses and prepared supper for us This Country is inhabited not onely with great Towns but like the Mazandran in Persia with abundance of Houses scattered here and there in several places amongst the woods The people live for the most part by sowing of Rice their way of Husbandry is to overflow the soil with water which abounds in all places but they pay as they told me very large Tributes to the King so that they have nothing but the labour for themselves and live in great Poverty November the twenty fifth I travelled over great Mountains and Woods like the former and foarded many deep Rivers Having gone three Cos we din'd in two Houses of those people who sow Rice whereof the whole Country is full at a place call'd Kelidì In the Evening my Pulià being very weary and unable to carry the heavy load of my baggage further we stay'd at some of the like Houses which they call'd Kabnàr about a mile forwards so that the journey of this whole day amounted not to a full Gau. November the twenty sixth I pass'd over clifts of Hills and uneeven and woody places At noon I came to a great River on the Northern bank whereof stands a little village nam'd Gulvarì near which the River makes a little Island We went to this Island by boat and foarded over the other stream to the far side Thence we came by a short cut to Barselòr call'd the Higher i. e. within Land belonging to the Indians and subject to Venk-tapà Naieka to difference it from the Lower Barselòr at the Sea-coast belonging to the Portugals For in almost all Territories of India near the Sea-coast there happens to be two places of the same Name one call'd the Higher or In-land belonging to the Natives the other the Lower near the Sea to the Portugals where-ever they have footing Entring the Higher Barselòr on this side I came into a fair long broad and strait Street having abundance of Palmeto's and Gardens on either hand The soil is fruitful and well peopled encompass'd with weak walls and ditches which are pass'd over by bridges of one or two very great stones which shew that there is good and fair Marble here whether they were dig'd thus out of the Quarry or are the remains of ancient Fabricks It stands on the South side of the River which from the Town Gulvàn fetches a great circuit seeming to return backwards and many Travellers without touching at the Upper Barselòr are wont to go to the Lower Barselòr by boat which is soon done but I was desirous to see both places and therefore came hither Having din'd and rested a good while in Higher Barselòr I took boat and row'd down the more Southern stream for a little below the said Town it is divided into many branches and forms divers little fruitful Islands About an hour and half before night I arriv'd at the Lower Barselòr of the Portugals which also stands on the Southern bank of the River distant two good Cannon-shot from the mouth of the Sea having travell'd this day in all one Gau and a half The Fort of the Portugals is very small built almost in form of a Star having no bad walls but wanting ditches in a Plain and much expos'd to all sort of assaults Such Portugals as are married have Houses without the Fort in the Town which is prety large and hath good buildings I went directly to the House of Sig Antonio Borges a former acquaintance who came from Goa to Onòr together with us and to whom the Ambassador at Ikkerì had recommended me I found sitting before his House in the streets the Captain of Barselòr call'd Sig Luis Mendes Vas Conti. We discours'd together for a good while and he seem'd a gallant man though but young Here was an Armado and a Cafila
all the world the demeanour of the noble Portugal Nation in these parts who indeed had they but as much order discipline and good government as they have valour Ormùz and other sad losses would not be now lamented but they would most certainly be capable of atchieving great matters But God gives not all things to all It being now broad day we set sail with the whole Cafila but by reason of contrary wind sail'd no more then three leagues and late in the evening came to anchor in the place where we hapned to be the contray Northwest wind beginning to grow more boisterous January the sixth We had the wind still contrary and having saild three other leagues at the usual hour we cast anchor near the Rocks of Baticalà On the seventh the said wind blowing somewhat favourably about noon we pass'd by Onòr and without staying discharg'd only one Gun to give notice for the Ships to come forth of the port if any were there that would accompany us for greater diligence was not needful because few come from thence In the Evening the usual contrary North-west wind arising we came to an anchor a little distant from Mirizeo At the second watch of the night a good stiff South-wind arose and in the forenoon next day we pass'd by the Rocks call'd Angediva and at night came to an anchor somewhat Southwards of Capo falso January the ninth the wind was contrary our way short and because we could not proceed forwards we cast anchor neer Rio del Sale also the next day for the same reason we could get no further then an Enieda as they speak or Bay call'd Mormogòn in the Island of Salsette contiguous to that of Goa on the South but greater and divided from the same only by a River This Island of Salsette is full of very fair Towns and abundance of Houses Above all the Jesuits have the goodliest places and 't is counted that perhaps a third part of the Island is theirs for besides three good Towns which belong wholly to them they have also dominion and government in all the other Towns too which are not theirs they have Churches everywhere Lands and store of Goods and I believe all the Parishes are govern'd by them in Spirituals with supreme Authority whence this people acknowledg more Vassallage upon the matter to the Jesuits then to the King himself The case is the same in another Island call'd Bardeos adjacent also to that of Goa but more Northward which is under the government of the Franciscans Nor is it otherwise in almost all the other Territories of the Portugals so that it may justly be said that the best and perhaps too the greatest part of this State is in the hands of Clergy-men Having anchor'd in the Bay of Mormogòn in good time and knowing that we were not to depart the night following our Captain with some others of us went ashore to see a Place and Church of the Jesuits call'd S. Andrea which they told us was hard by yet we found it not so near but that we walk't about a league to get to it because we knew not the right way but mistook it and were fain to leap over very broad and deep ditches of water into one whereof one our Company hapned to fall to the great laughter of the rest besides many other inconveniences We found the Church large neat and well built with a fair square Court or Yard before it surrounded with handsom Stone-walls and within with some great Trees under which were Banks rais'd to sit upon in the shadow On one side of the Church was a very fair and well-built House for the Padre Rettore who hath the present superintendency thereof which Church and Building would be very magnificent not only for this place but for the City of Rome it self We stay'd a good while discoursing with the F. Rector who told us sundry news from Goa and invited us to Supper but fearing to arrive too late at the Fleet if we stay'd to sup here we wav'd the Courtesie and taking leave of him at Sun-set return'd to the place where we had left our Ships and though we had a Guide to conduct us by the best and nearest way yet we got not thither to imbarque till after two hours within night January the eleventh at our departing from the Port of Mormogòn this day in which we were to arrive at Goa the General who was wont to go in the Rear-guard being now minded to go in the middle of the Armada commanded our Ship hitherto Captain of the Vant-guard to remain behind all the rest for guarding the Rear-guard where great diligence was to to be us'd both that no stragling Ship might be in danger of being surpriz'd by Rovers or any of the Merchants Vessels slip aside to avoid paying Custom at Goa and go to unlade in other places of Counterband Wherefore having sail'd the little remainder of the way and caus'd all the other Ships to enter which were in number more then two hundred and fifty we at length enter'd the Bar or Mouth of the Rio of Goa where we anchor'd under a Port hard by without going further to the City it being the custom for no Fleets to arrive in the City without the advice and Licence of the Viceroy Here we found the Ship which alone was to go this year to Portugal already laden and ready to sail as also some Galeons in readiness likewise whether to be sent to Ormùz or elsewhere I know not Sig. Ayres de Siqueida Captain of our Ship having got leave of the General went to Goa with a Manciva or Boat which came to him for that purpose and I with Sig. Francesco Pesciotto Captain of another Ship Sig. Manoel Leyera and some few Soldiers accompani'd him We arriv'd at Goa when it was dark night because 't is three leagues from the mouth of the Bar to the City almost directly from South to North so that there is a considerable difference between the altitude of the Pole at Goa and the mouth of the Bar. Having landed every one went to his own home and I who had no house ready for me nor yet any servant went alone as I was to lodg in the House of Sig. Antonio Baracio my friend according as himself Sig Ruy Gomes his Brother had promis'd I should when I departed from Goa As I was going thither I was unexpectedly met by the said two Brothers who receiv'd me with their wonted courtesie My Bed and Goods which I had in the Ship were soon after brought to the same place by the procurement of Sig. Ayres I understood here that my quondam servant the honest Cacciatùr coming hither from Ikkerì to Goa after his false dealing with me had attempted to put a trick upon Signora Maria also but it did not succeed He feign'd that I had sent him beforehand to take order for a house against my return and was importunate for mony to prepare and
ado go to Surat and after they had there done what mischief they could to the Enemies then sail to Ormuz December the sixteenth The Ship wherein I was to imbarque being to set sail the night following I put my Goods aboard and having taken leave of my Friends I was accompanied to the Sea-side by Sig. Luigi Cabreira from whom I separated with many embraces and much regret on either side As soon as I was in the Ship the Captain weighed Anchor intending to set sail as soon as we should have a good wind although the Captain of Ciaul sent a publick Notary to the Captain of our Ship not to go out of the Port this night the service of the King so requiring I believe it was that we might stay for some other Ships which were to go out the next morning to the end we might go altogether more secure from the Malabars the greatest dangers of whom is at the going out of Ports about which they lie waiting and near the Land where they ply up and down more then in the main Sea We had no wind in the night and therefore went not out of the Port. December the seventeenth In the morning we set out of the Port with a small gale and at the same time three or four other Ships set forth for several parts We had not sail'd far but we descry'd some Vessels coming towards us which we took for Pirats and therefore prepar'd to fight them but at length we lost sight of them and hois'd the great sail directing our course almost Northwest having first rehears'd the Litanies of our Lady and invok'd the Divine Assistance and her's propitious to our Voyage December the twenty third Having hitherto sail'd prosperously we came to the altitude of twenty three degrees and a half under the Tropick of Cancer leaving the Torrid Zone under which I had been travelling in sundry parts for about a year and ten Months Here the wind fail'd us and we had as quiet a Sea as uses to be at the shores of Italy in the Month of August We began to find the Sky which hitherto we had seen constantly clear as it uses to be in India during these Months now interstinguish'd with clouds and in short the mutation of the Climate was manifest The Coast of Arabia for which we were bound could not be far off but we could not get to discover it for want of wind December the twenty seventh Having hitherto been becalm'd without advancing but rather being driven backwards by the contrary current of the water the Portugals as their custom is after reciting the Litanies and praying to God and Sant ' Antonio of Padua to whom they bear great devotion to give us a good wind intended to bind a little Image of the said S. Anthony which they carry'd in the Ship as if to imprison it for thus they use to do when they would obtain any favour as if they meant to force it threatning not to loose it till he grant them what they demand They intended I say to bind S. Anthony that he might give us a good wind but forbore to do it upon the Pilot's instance who pass'd his word for the Saint telling them that he was so honest that without being bound or captivated he would do what they desir'd This manner of demanding of favours of S. Antonio of Padua is much in use amongst the Portugals especially the meaner sort of ignorant and superstitious Mariners though amongst us 't is a vain thing A barbarous Superstition indeed but yet such as sometimes through the faith and simplicity of those that practise it uses to be heard December the twenty eighth We had a wind sufficiently brisk and impetuous yet not only not favourable but altogether contrary so that we could neither bear up against it nor yet cast anchor because we were in the main Sea which growing rough and tempestuous we were forc't to furl our sails and suffer the Ship to be driven whither the wind pleas'd which was Southwards not without fear falling upon Mombaza or some other remote Coast of Africk and consequently suffering shipwrack and a thousand other Dysasters December the twenty ninth The Captain with the others of the Ship resolv'd at length to bind S. Anthony and as chance would have it it prov'd well for the wind chang'd and we sail'd prosperously in our right course all day and part of the night A little before mid-night we discover'd the Coast of Arabia so neer that we cast anchor in haste for fear of the Shallows which are thereabouts In the morning we saw the Land naked both of Trees and Grass but rather stony in appearance and Desart although it was part of that Arabia which they call Happy December the thirtieth We began to move forward East South-East having the Land on the left hand but a sudden contrary wind arising forc't us to cast anchor again in the place where we were not without danger for in the furling of the sail through the negligence of the Sea-men it wrapt about the Mast the wind blowing very furiously against the fore-deck so that had the Vessel been less sound and strong-sided or some of the Passengers less diligent to help it had been overturn'd and sunk like the Ship of Orontes in the shipwrack of Aeneas which Virgil describes to have been lost by the like casualty At night the contrary wind ceasing we proceeded in our intended course December the one and thirtieth The wind failing we cast anchor but in an unsecure place not without danger of being split upon the shore whither in spight of our anchors the wind hurri'd us but tacking about we got to a more secure place near that from whence we had mov'd the day before On the first of January and of the year 1625 We stood at anchor till night and then made a little progress but all the next day we stood at anchor again and took very good fish and at night a little wind blowing from the Land we went forwards now and then but very little January the eighth Having all the preceding days been about the Coast of Arabia casting anchor every day and weighing again at night during which a Boat of Arabians brought us much fresh fish and an Arabian came swimming to us a great way only to beg a little Rice and Bisket which we gave him at length having a good wind this day after noon we pass'd a Cape which they call Capo falso because 't is neer and resembles the Cape Raselhhad but is not it At night we passed by the True Cape call'd by the Arabians Raselhhad that is the Cape of the Confine because 't is the last and most Southern Cape of Arabia being as they say in the latitude of twenty two degrees and a half from the Aequinoctial Northwards and distant from Mascat whither we were going forty leagues the Portugals call it corruptly Capo di Rosalgate Having pass'd this Cape we steer'd Northwest
of water call'd in Latine if I mistake not Typhones Vortices but we pass'd through them without any hurt or dammage October the twenty first After many days of contrary wind which driv us in vain about the gulph of Settaglia at length it becoming favourable the Pilot and other Mariners said they descry'd land afar off which some took to be Candia others Rhodes but whatever it was we soon lost sight of it again and the same night the wind growing strong we were separated from the other Ships which were in our company Nevertheless we continu'd our Voyage alone and at evening descry'd land on the North-west which the Mariners said was the Island Scarpanti subject to the Venetians and that the good wind continuing we should soon discover Candia but about midnight the wind fell and we remain'd becalm'd October the twenry third The Wind turning favourable we discover'd land which they said was Candia at the prow of the Ship but at night lest the increasing South-wind should drive us too much to Land we put forth to Sea Southwards and left Candia on the right hand Northwards so far that we could not see it The next day the Sky being very cloudy we discover'd Malta whilst we were at dinner very near-hand the thick Air having intercepted it before and a good while before night we cast anchor just without the Port of the said Island soon after which a Guard-boat came to see who we were and whence we came in order to inform the Grand Master thereof the Officer demanded our Bill of Health which we had from Cyprus but would not touch it till it had been first dipt in Vinegar in regard of the great suspitions there were here of the Plague which rag'd much at Constantinople and other parts of Turkie But he not returning that night to us again with an answer we remain'd all aboard being suffer'd only to send for water without the City October the twenty ninth Early in the Morning the same Officer nam'd Sig. Desiderio Montemagni return'd and told us that the Knights made a little difficulty concerning my Bill of Health made at Cyprus by the Venetian Consul which was not so plain as that of the Ship which was made at Cyprus also the same day by the French Consul wherefore he made an excuse to me in their name for the delay of expediting me so suddenly I took all well commended the diligence of the Knight thankt them for their courtesie and profess'd my self obedient to their commands After which I deliver'd the Messenger a Letter for Monsig Visconti Inquisitor Apostolical there wherein I gave him account of my rrrival and desir'd him to favour me in order to a speedy exepetion F. Orsino writ another to him both which bath'd likewise in Vinegar Sig. Desiderio promis'd to present with his own hand The same day after dinner the Sig. Commendator Fra. Marcantorio Erancaccio a prime Neapolitan Cavalier my ancient friend at Naples and Sig Fra Mandosio Mandosii a Roman Cavalier both of the Religion of Malta came to visit me in a Boat which yet stay'd a little distance from our Ship as the Guard-boat also did and they offer'd me their persons to serve me with much courtesie I received much news of them concerning some of my friends at Naples and elsewhere after which they departed giving me hope that in a Councel to be held that day about other weighty affairs of the Religion my Expedition should be taken into consideration In the Evening Monsig Visconti sent me a Present of some refreshments and signifi'd to me that he had earnestly mov'd the Grand Master concerning the business of my expedition and when the Councel broke up I should hear the result thereof by his Secretary A while after the Secretary brought me word that the Councel held very long having determin'd a difference between two Spanish Knights who pretended to the Priorate of Navarre by giving it to one of them and also created a new General of the Galleys which charge was also pretended to by divers but fell to the Prior della Roccella Son of the Prince della Roccella who had a new instituted that Priorate in his Father's dominion insomuch that by reason of so many and long businesses ehiter the Grand Master had forgot or forborn to propose any thing else to wit our Expedition but that he having spoken to him as he came out of the Council the Grand Master told him that within two days another Council should be held purposely for our business because it could not be done without a Council and that in the mean time he gave order that our Ship should not depart from the Port to the end I might have the convenience of waiting the resolution concerning Landing without being carri'd away to my inconvenience to Marseilles whither those of our Ship intended directly to go and therefore we must have a little patience in the interim I return'd my thanks to Mons. Visconti and sent him word that I should have patience being secure of receiving all favour from his great courtesie Soon after which Sig Desiderio came to signifie the order to our Ship that it should not depart out of the Port. October the thirty first Besides a Present of refreshments sent me this day from the Sig. Commendator Brancaccio and frequent visits of Sig ●esiderio ane also of divers others partly known and partly unknown to me a little before night the Commissarii della Sanita Commissioners of Health came to see me and to enquire what goods I carri'd with me they told me the next day a Council would be held for dispatch of my business but hearing of the goods I brought particularly of the Ball of Cotten-yarn though they were not told what was within it for then without doubt the difficulty would have been greater they told me that by reason of the said goods I must have a little more patience for they should give me the Quarantine a little longer then if we had had nothing besides our persons November the first After dinner the Captain of the Port brought us licence to go ashore to wit for me and my company the Knights of the Council vouchsafing me this favour yet upon condition that I should pass my Quarantine not in the Isoletto whither all others are sent but at the Port where we were in the house of Sig Don Francesco Ciantar neer his Church of S. Saviour which house the Inquisitor procur'd for me and the Council as a particular favour granted me for my better convenience They prefix'd no time of the Quarantine but reserv'd it at their own arbitrement however I resolv'd it should not be very long The Caravel S. Ann which brought me desir'd to undergo the Quarantine also that they might afterwards have Prattick and sell their commodities perhaps more advantagiously at Malta but it would not be granted but the next day the Vessel was dismiss'd away for France The reason whereof I suppose
Jesuits in Sicily in a Church call'd Our Lady delle Gratie I went to see the Capuchins Church the Streets of the City the Castle and whatever was remarkable which was very little January the sixteenth The weather continuing foul with snow the Captains upon consultation resolv'd to return back to Syracuse because the Galleys had not provision enough for a longer stay Wherefore after dinner we set sail back again and arriv'd before night at Syracuse whereof the Bishop being advertis'd sent Sig Paolo Faraone to fetch me and Sig Maria to conduct my women to his House January the nineteenth The weather becoming good the General sent us sudden notice that he would depart immediately as accordingly we did and at night enter'd the Port of Augusta because it was again become somewhat tempestuous The next Evening we departed from Augusta and sail'd all night with a bad wind which forc't us to make use of our Oars January the twenty first At day-break we came before Capo grosso about twenty miles from Messina and continuing our course arriv'd at Messina before Noon At the mouth of the Port we were question'd by the Commissioners of Health who were very rigorous here and indeed were to be commended for it since had it not been for the exact diligence of Messina in this matter the present Pestilence of Sicily might easily have infected all Italy for Card. Dona and others that govern'd at Palermo to avoid damnifying that City by loss of Trade have hazarded the safery not only of the whole Kingdom as is manifestly seen but also of all Italy by concealing the Plague of Palermo as much as they could instead of remedying the Infection by such severe and rigorous courses as was fit namely by burning infected Goods and the like yea they rather maintain'd that the Plague was not there when it was there and requir'd prattick to be given them everywhere procuring Orders from Spain for that purpose by which means many other places of Sicily are become infected and the Plague which had fit means been us'd perhaps would soon have been extinguisht hath continu'd above two years and continues still the Orders of the Viceroy and the Court of Spain promoting the spreading thereof in despight of all Only the City of Messina hath the glory of withstanding so great mischief for the publick safety Whilst we were under examination expecting Bills for Prattick against night I advertis'd Sig Francesco Faraone and Sig Don Palmieri di Giovanni my ancient Friends of my coming who in the Evening when Prattick was granted us came with other Gentlemen and Gentlewomen in Coaches to the shore-side to receive me and Sig Maria. After I had taken leave of the General and all the Knights of the Gallies I went ashore and was accompany'd by the said Gentlemen to the House of Sig Francesco Faraone where taking up my Residence I have been visited by most Persons of quality in the City as also Sig Maria hath been by many Ladies we also returning visits to all to whom we owed them January the five and twentieth Sig Don Giov. Bisogni a Cavalier of Messina Cousin to the Bishop of Syracuse and Husband of Donna Margarita Faraone whom I left at Catania with three of her Sons dying at Messina his Son Don Francesco who alone was here at his Father's death according to the custom of this City as soon as his Father expir'd went out of the House leaving it and the Body yet unburi'd to the care of other kinred and retyr'd to the House of Sig Franc. Faraone wherein I lodg as his nearest Kinsman and here he receives condoling visits and remaines till his Father's Body be buri'd and the House purifi'd and fitted with mourning which I mention as a custom not practis'd by us at Rome We have been to see the Bodies of San Placido and other Saints with all the other Reliques of Messina which were shewn us near the High Altar where they are kept very conveniently I have also heard one of the Moral Lectures of Sig Antonio Mazzapinta a Famous Philosopher and Publick Reader in Messina Which Lecture as also many others he read in his Extraordinary House for his own pleasure and that of the Curious Here I arrest my Pen this Letter being the last of my Oriental Voyages If it please God I shall shortly entertain you viva voce in the mean time I commit you to his Providence and kiss your Hands An account of my Arrival and Residence at Naples in the House of Sig Maria Schipano JAnuary the thirtieth Having hir'd two Felluca's for Naples and embarqu'd all our goods with good Bills of Health which in regard of Maani's Body which I carry'd with me were more then necessary and my Friends at Messina had procur'd to my satisfaction in the Morning we set sail from Messina with a good wind being accompany'd to the boat by many Persons of quality of both Sexes from whom we separated with much tenderness We pass'd the Pharo between Caribdis and Scilla the Sea being sufficiently rough though the wind favorable On the left hand at a good distance we left the Island of Strongile Vulcano and other places at night arriving at Trupia where because they refus'd to give us Prattick alledging that this was no Landing-place in these infectious times and that certain Landing-places were appointed for Passage-Vessels upon the Coast of Calabria where alone Prattick was to be had we kept out at Sea all night and pass'd il Pizzo January the one and thirtieth We pass'd by Mantea and other places at noon arriving at Paola where I went ashore A little without the City amongst the little Hills we saw the Church of S. Francis of Paola which is delicately seated amongst goodly Trees and Brooks which run between the Hills We saw the Reliques the Chappel of the Marquis Lord of the place and his Sepulchres the Lime-kiln where S. Francis did a miracle the Fountain and the Grotto wherein he lived with all other things remarkable after which we lodg'd in an Hostery or Inn upon the shore February the first Having heard Mass in a little Church there we left Paola and passing by Scoglio del Marchese and other Islands in the Evening we supp'd at Sea under Belvedere and sailing all night the next day we din'd on Land at Camerota from whence we sail'd and came to an Anchor in the Port of Palinuro which place I beheld with pleasure through the delightfull remembrance of Virgil's Verses which relate the misfortune of the Pilot Palniurus and with-all give immortal fame to the place February the fourth We departed from Palinuro and lodg'd on shore at Acciaruolo where Passengers are notoriously abus'd by being constrain'd to lodg in a lewd Inn there and pay the Host what he pleases to demand who is also to pay the Lord of the place what Rent he desires The next day we pass'd the Gulph of Salerno and bocche di Capri arriving late in the Port
did not so though he had to his good entertainment made for him a Chain of bright Brass an Armour Breast Back and Head-piece with a Buckler all of Brass his beloved Metal yet all this contented him not for never any seemed to be more weary of ill usage than he was of Courtesies none ever more desirous to return home to his Countrey than he For when he had learned a little of our Language he would daily lie upon the ground and cry very often thus in broken English Cooree home go Souldania go home go And not long after when he had his desire and was returned home he had no sooner set footing on his own shore but presently he threw away his Clothes his Linnen with all other Covering and got his sheeps skins upon his back guts about his neck and such a perfum'd Cap as before we named upon his head by whom that Proverb mentioned 2 Pet 2.22 was literally fulfill'd Canis ad vomitum The dog is return'd to his vomit and the swine to his wallowing in the mire After this fellow was returned it made the Natives most shie of us when we arrived there for though they would come about us in great Companies when we were new come thither yet three or four days before they conceiv'd we would depart thence there was not one of them to be seen fearing belike we would have dealt with some more of them as formerly we had done with Cooree But it had been well if he had not seen England for as he discovered nothing to us so certainly when he came home he told his Country-men having doubtless observed so much here that Brass was but a base and cheap commodity in England and happily we had so well stored them with that mettal before that we had never after such a free Exchange of our Brass and Iron for their Cattel It was here that I asked Cooree who was their God he lifting up his hands answered thus in his bad English England God great God Souldania no God In the year 1614. Ten English men having received the sentence of death for their several crimes at the Sessions house in the Old-Baily at London had their Execution respited by the intreaty of the East-India Merchants upon condition that they should be all banished to this place to the end if they could find any peaceable abode there they might discover something advantagious to their Trade And this was accordingly done But two of them when they came thither were taken thence and carried on the Voyage One whose sirname was Duffield by Sir Thomas Row that year sent Embassadour to the Great Mogol that fellow thus redeemed from a most sad Banishment was afterward brought back again into England by that noble Gentleman and here being intrusted by him stole some of his Plate and ran away Another was carried on the Voyage likewise but what became of him afterward I know not So that there remained eight which were there left with some Ammunition and Victual with a small Boat to carry them to and from a very little uninhabited Island lying in the very mouth of that Bay a place for their retreat and safety from the Natives on the Main The Island called Pen-guin Island probably so named at first by some Welsh-man in whose Language Pen-guin signifies a white head and there are many great lazy fowls upon and about this Island with great cole-black bodies and very white heads called Penguins The chief man of the eight there left was sirnamed Cross who took the Name upon him of Captain Cross He was formerly Yeoman of the Guard unto King James but having had his Hand in Blood twice or thrice by men slain by him in several Duels and now being condemned to die with the rest upon very great sute made for him he was hither banished with them whither the Justice of Almighty God was dispatched after him as it were in a Whirlwind and followed him close at the very heels and overtook him and left him not till he had pay'd dear for that blood he had formerly spilt This Cross was a very stout and a very resolute man who quarrelling with and abusing the Natives and engaging himself far amongst them immediately after himself with the rest were left in that place many of these Salvages being got together fell upon him and with their darts thrown and arrows shot at him stuck his body so full of them as if he had been larded with darts and arrows making him look like the figure of the man in the Almanack that seems to be wounded in every part or like that man described by Lucan Totum pro vulnere corpus who was All-wound where blood touched blood The retaliations of the Lord are sure and just He that is Mercy it self abhorrs Cruelty above all other sins He cannot endure that one man should devour another as the Beasts of the Field Birds of the Air Fishes of the Sea do and therefore usually shews exemplary signal revenges for that sin of Blood selling it at a dear rate unto them that shead it Every sin hath a tongue but that of Blood out-cryes and drowns the rest Blood being a clamorous and a restless suter whose mouth will not be stopt till it receive an Answer as it did here The other seven the rest of these miserable Banditi who were there with Cross recovered their Boat and got off the shore without any great hurt and so rowing to their Island the waves running high they split their boat at their landing which engaged them to keep in that place they having now no possible means left to stir thence And which made their condition while they were in it most extremely miserable it is a place wherein grows never a Tree neither for sustenance or shelter or shade nor any thing beside I ever heard of to help sustein Nature a place that hath never a drop of fresh water in it but what the showrs leave in the holes of the rocks And besides all this there are very great number of Snakes in that Island as I have been told by many that have been upon it so many of those venemous worms that a man cannot tread safely in the long grass which grows in it for fear of them And all these put together must needs make that place beyond measure uncomfortable to these most wretched men To this may be added their want of provision having nothing but dry Bisket and no great quantity of that so that they lived with hungry bellies without any place fit for repose without any quiet rest for they could not choose but sleep in fear continually And what outward condition could make men more miserable than this Yet notwithstanding all they suffered these seven vile wretches all liv'd to be made examples afterward of Divine Justice For after they had continued in and endured this sad place for the space of five or six moneths and they were grown all even almost mad