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A61855 The perillous and most unhappy voyages of John Struys Through Italy, Greece, Lifeland, Muscovia, Tartary, Media, Persia, East-India, Japan, and other places in Europe, Africa and Asia. Containing, I. Most accurate remarks and observations of the distinct qualities, religion, politie, customs, laws and properties of the inhabitants: II. A due description of the several cities, towns, forts, and places of trust, as to their site and strength, fortifications by nature, or art, &c. with other things worthy of note: and, III. An exact memorial of the most disastrous calamities which befell the author in those parts (viz) by ship-wrack, robberies, slavery, hunger, tortures, with other incommodities and hardships. To which are added 2 narrativs sent from Capt. D. Butler, relating to the taking in of Astrachan by the Cosacs. Illustrated with divers curious plates, first designed and taken from the life by the author himself. Rendered out of Nether-dutch by John MorrisonĀ·; Reysen door Moscovien, Tartarijen, Oost-Indien. English Struys, Jan Janszoon, d. 1694.; Morrison, John, 17th cent.; Butler, David, Captain. 1684 (1684) Wing S6019; ESTC R216963 334,708 398

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four Galleys ready upon all Occasions for Defence of the Havens besides a considerable number more which they have in their Arsenal in good equippage these are often imployed as Auxiliaries for the Venetians against the Turks On the Sea-side stands a Watch-Tower on which by night they set a Beacon and just at the Entrance of the Haven stands a huge piece of Ordnance mounted upon a Carriage continually guarded with a Sentinel The Dukes Person is guarded with a Body of 500 Soldiers who with their Colonel have a place allotted them in the Palace The City is generally well built with stately Houses and magnificent Structures more especially on that side which is seated near the Sea having besides the more eminent Hostels and Public Buildings 30 fair Parish Churches of which that dedicated to St. Laurence claims the priority as Cathedral In the Church dedicated to the H. Eucharist they show'd us a Key made of an Emerald being of the unusual bignes that ●t's worth may not be computed Coming to the Church of St. Bartholomew we saw a handkercheif with which they told us our Saviour wiped the sweat from his face and as they say has done abundance of Miracles The City is very populous their Merchants rich and numerous and their Manufactury also very considerable especially in Velvets there being according to the relation given us above 8000 Looms in the Town so that considering the Magnificency of Building the Riches of her Merchants Commodiousness of Situation and Splendor of her Court and Palace may be reckoned as a Town of the first Magnitude On the 12 of April we set sail directing our course for Velez Malaga where on the 15 we arrived On the 18 we hoised sail and made for Malaga and on the 24 came to cast anchor in the Bay where almost all the Banditti were set ashoar Here we took in a hundred Pipes of Wine with candied Fruits and other Refreshments for the sick On the 29 of May we weighed Anchor and with a brisk gale of Wind reached the Straits mouth on the 2 of Iune When we were past Gibralter we steer'd our Course towards the Salt Islands which was designed for another place of Refreshment from whence we gathered that our Voyage must needs be longer than at first we thought for till then none aboard the ship unless the Officers knew whither we were bound or upon what account we were sent out On the fourth of Iune we met with 9 Turkish Men of War about the 3d. Watch in the night who Hail'd us asking from whence our ship we answered From Genua and asked them From whence they were they made answer From Argiers Our Commander hearing that unwelcome Eccho was not a little alarm'd and could have wish'd himself at a further distance however he resolves to exchange a ball or two with them by break of day and in order thereto gets all in a readiness commands every man to his Post and gave us all the courage he could by his own Example The Corsairs who although better man'd and mounted than we had no great stomach to go so early to breakfast for observing such marks of Courage in our Officers and that they were absolutely resolved to fight'um made all the sail they could and left us On the 14 we pass'd the Flemmish Islands and on the 6 of July we arrived at Boa Vista where we came to Anchor in the Bay On this Island were several of the Banditti who brought us such Provision as they had aboard we took in also ten boats of salt About this Island is such plenty of Fish that at one draught we got 1500 Corcoads and Salmon-Fry Boa Vista is one of those Islands which are called Cabo Verdo Islands having obtained that appellation from it's delectable prospect from the Seaward and lies 7 leagues to the northward of Ilha del Sal and is reckoned to be about 20 leagues in circumference stretched out in length South-east and North-west That part which lies near the sea is all sandy and hilly ground but within altogether montanous and high land On the north end is a long Bank near half a league in length which repelleth the billows of the sea with great violence There are yet besides this several other Foords which are often the occasion of Shipwrack On the South is also another where the Rocks sometimes appear above water and points out towards the East and E. and by North. The best and safest place to come to Anchor in is at the Southwest Point where is a very commodious Road for Ships of the greatest burthen having at lest 16 or 17 fathom Water and a fine sandy ground In this Road we lay at anchor 6 days and then set sail for Majo St. Iago Fuogo and Brava which are the nearest Islands to Boa Vista The Island Majo lies about nine leagues S. S. W. or rather mo● Westerly from Boa Vista and is the smallest of all the rest being about 7 leagues round Within land are several steep hills and on the North a Plain about a league in breadth from whence reaches out a long Bank towards the North-east and another towards the West which cause impetuous Breaches of the Sea and consequently great danger for Ships that sail that way The Island is almost round in circumference having its breadth and length almost equal and is full of small Capes or Promontories which make so many Inlets The common Road belonging to this Island is on the South-west Coast where you have 15 and 16 fathom Water and a sandy ground having the Western point of the Island at N. and by W. and another Point at E. S. E. and the South end of St. Iago S. W. On the North side of the Island behind a litle black Cape lies a small Bay or Road for Anchorage at 5 or 6 fathom water and upon the lowest point on the East is a Village of 10 or 12 houses This Island is very rocky high and dry having litle grass upon it but what grows in the clefts of the Rocks It is also very barren of Fruit neither Lemmons nor Oranges will like there nor no other fruit whatsoever unles sigs and those by reason of the drought of the Season and Ground seldom ever come to maturity or return to profit There are in this Island some Cotton-trees and good plenty of Goats so that there are many thousands of those Hides transported yearly from hence There are also some wild Horses Kine and Asses good plenty of Fowl as Patridge Heath-hens Bustards Wild-geese and other Fowl not known with us in Europe There are also many Saltpans on this Island where the Salt by the Ground Water and the Ingress of the Sea with the help of the Sun is well concreted yet is somewhat too yellow in colour The Inhabitants are a mixt folk of Negros and others who follow Goat hunting using Wolves in stead of Dogs Some also follow the
Fishing trade and find great plenty of Cyprins Dorades and other Fish St. Iago is the greatest and chief of the Cabo Verdo Islands being about 12 leagues in length lying South-East and North-west The South-east Cape thereof hath the Road of the Island Majo on the West and W. and by N. about 5 leagues distant The high Land of St. Iago lies from the Road of Majo directly West but the middle thereof South-west from Boa Vista or rather more Westerly and from the Salt Island S. W. and by S. about 25 Leagues From the South-west Angle the coast stretches it self forth 2 leagues South-west where there is a small Hamlet called Praye situated in a commodious place between two Hills and environed with 2 Rivers which running into the Sea do make two handsom Bays one whereof is called Porto de Praye and has room enough to contain an hundred Ships which may safely ride at Anchor without damnifying each other having 14 fathom water and shot-free from Land as also the benefit of a small Island which breaks off the wind Sailing past Porto de Praye before you come at the Town is a Cape or small Promontory which the Portugeezes call Capo de Tubarao On the West whereof is another Bay called Porto de Ribeirra Corea which also is very fitly seated between two Hills and a River that runs through the midle rising from a fountain about 2 leagues from thence and disgorging it self into the Sea by a mouth about a Bow-shot in breadth In the North is also another Haven called St. Mary On the Island St. Iago are yet two Towns of note whereof the one is called St. Thomas very well seated the other St. Iago or St. Iames which is built upon a rising Ground This is the Metropolis of all the Towns of these Islands where is also the Residence and Palace of their Bishop Towards the West on an Angle of the Island is a Fortress two leagues from Porto de Praye where Ships come to anchor and North-west from this Angle another Haven known by the name of Porto de Canisos This Island is very fertile and abounds with fruit of several kinds as on each side the Rio de Corea grow great plenty of Cocos Oranges Citrons other Fruit-trees as also some Cedars Besides this it affoards good store of Rice Maïs and other grain as also Cattel both for work and slaughter Ilha del Fuogo or The Isle of Fire probably has that name from one of it's Mountains which continually sends forthflames by some intestin Fire It lies in 14 degr 20 min. Northerly Latitude and 12 leagues from the South-west point of St. Iago North-west on the West-side is a Bay and a small castle seated at the foot of a hill but the violent course of the stream renders the haven unapt to receive any Shipping Those that would enter the Bay must steer their course to the North of this Island and so about About 4 leagues South-west of Ilha del Fuogo lies Ilha del Brava that is VVild or Desert Island with two or three small Islands on the North thereof On the West-side is a Creek very convenient for such as have occasion to take in water but the best haven is on the South-east side where it is 15 fathom deep and a Ship of the greatest burthen may come to anchor close to the Kay Above this Harbour is a Hermitage and a Village very well peopled This Island is also fruitfull enough having good store of figs Mulberrys Water-Melons and Indian wheat but far inferiour to Mayo and St Iago for cattel The Air of these Islands is generally unwholsom so that the inhabitants are very subject to Feavers Aches and Fluxes These Islands lying between the Aequator and the Tropic of Cancer affoard the People two Summers every year the Sun passing twice directly over their heads When the sun enters into Cancer which is in the end of Iune the season is very intemperate with Storms Winds Thunder and Lightning continuing so till the midle of October the● the Portugueezes call the Rain moneths They have certain tokens whereby they know when this Season approaches as high Southe●ly Winds which blow along the Coast and the Salt which begin to dissolve with the Billows rolling out of the Sea On the 14 we left the Salt Islands and set sail for Sierra Liones and made land on the 2d of August hearing at a great distance the Wind roaring from the Mountains which by the reason of their Concavity do make a great buzzing when it blows hard that perhaps has given them the name of Sierra Liones or Lioness Mountai● A litle before the evening we came with our Boat close to the shore where we heard a most terrible Noise occasioned by an impetuou● and continual beating of the billows through the cleft of a Rock which was so loud that we could hardly hear one another spea● Sierra Liones takes it's beginning from Cabo de Virgin and stretches● self so far out as Cabo Tagrin or Lede which is also by some call● Cabo de Sierra Liones lying in 8 Degr. and 13 Min. Northerly Latitude and by reason of it's height is easily distinguished from that Continent which lies to the Northward of this Promontory the more because it reaches further Seaward The South and South and by E. part of this Land lies toward the Sea and is high and hilly but the land of the Cape towards the North for the most part level and marshy There are 13 Rivulets which coming from the Land run through these Mountains and so empty themselves in the Ocean and have on their banks plenty of Fruit-trees as Oranges Pome-Citrons and the like On the 3 of August we arrived in the Bay of Sierra Liones Immediately upon our arriving there the Commander sent the Shallop ashoar and such persons as he did think fit with Presents for the King which were 5 Barrs of Iron a Barrel of Brandy and another of Spanish Wine Those men that were nominated to deliver the Presents were courteously received by the King and his Court. We could not perceive any Mark of Superiority or Grandour in the Prince which might distinguish him from his Subjects no more than in Mr. Mayor of Stratford from his Worshipfull Brethren the Aldermen Yet found him much to vary from some other Soveraign Potentates who enrich themselves at the Cost and Penury of their Vassals The King and his Folk were equally insatiable and covetous for so soon as the King had received the Present he desired as much more which the Commander was content to send him that he might have the freedom to take in Water and Wood for Fewel as also to provide our selves with Oranges Lemmons and other Refreshments The Inhabitants which are called Caffers shew'd us no small Friendship for so long as our Penny lasted they never faild of a Pater noster bringing us every day good store of Fruit. When the
them to proceed on their Journey thither They thanked us for our Advice and directed their Course for Terky that being also a good Market We agreed among our selves to follow the like course with intent at least to supply our want of Provision not knowing whether the Town was taken in by the Cosacks or that it was still under the Emperour About 9 in the Evening we anchored before the Town and immediately upon our anchorage saw 10 or 12 Soldiers come rowing towards us but when they came nigh saw that we were well armed offered not to do any violent Act but only asked us Who we were and From whence we came We answered That we were Hollanders belonging to his Majesties great Ship at Astrachan and were come thither to sound the Bay and Haven Ho! Ho! said they are you those men You must come before the Lord Deputy hereupon we made answer That it was then too late but the next Morning betimes we would wait upon his Excellency With this answer they seem'd to be satisfied but we thought it not safe for us to tarry there long but before creek of day we loosed and set our course S. and by W. Terky is situate in 43 degr and 27 min. about an English league from the strand It has been 3 times surveyed and laid out The first time by the Russes themselves the second time by one Cornelius Claasz a Dutch Ingenieur about the year 1636 who also strengthned the said Town with Walls and Bulwarks after the modern way of Fortification and in the year 1670 it was survey'd and fortified anew by Colonel Baily an English Gentleman with huge strong Bulwarks and and a wide and deep Mote encompassing it quite round The City is seated in a Champan Countrey without either Wood or Hill so far as one can view The River is also called Terky by the Moscovians but by the Inhabitants Timenky The Banks lying upon the Sea are all grown over with Canes and rough Terky is a place of great Trust being the Kay or Barricado of the Czars Dominions for it lies on the Frontiers of the Russian Territories and for that end has always a Garrison of 2000 Strelitzers All the night it blew very hard and in the morning we saw land on each side The Island which lay on the Larboard side we called Meynders Island because he was the first that discovered it We steered directly through the Islands and when we were about 20 leagues within the Bay we discovered high land which we afterward knew to be the famous Caucasus and Ararat which also border and extend to the Circas Hills and sailing a litle further we found that we were near the Quick-sands so that we were fain to tack about and bear up to the Channel where coming we sounded and found it 2 fathom and a good sandy ground Being just got thorow the straits or narrow Channel we looked about and discovered a great Bark making up toward us with all the Sail they could which afterwards we understood was sent by order of the Governour of Terki to pursue us having 62 Soldiers and all well armed aboard with a charge from the Governour to give us no quarter but to hack us in pieces and to bring back the Shallop and Goods to Terky We seeing them in a full pursuit thought it no time to dally but laboured as hard as we could till we got the Island Sierlan where we came to Anchor and the Bark seemed to give over their chace On the 18 ditto betimes in the morning we set Sail and indeavoured to gain the High land which before the Evening came on we did putting in at a River and were assured that we were not within the Jurisdiction of the Czar which is bounded by the Timenki The Circas Dominion begins at the Timenki and is bounded from Nagaya by the Step and from the Dagestan-Tartars by the River Bustro The Countrey is very fertile producing good store both of Fruit and Grain and is also good Pasture-ground The men are very corpulent and withall robust have broad-faces but not square like the Calmucs or Crims they are of a swarthy yellow complexion and shave their Heads and Beards after a strange manner Cross over the head they make a bare stroak and yet let a tuft grow in the Crown and on each side it hangs down in two great bushes which sometimes they let hang loose and sometimes plate They wear gray Felt-coats with a mantle of the same which is rough without this they hang slovenly about the neck made fast with a great button that they can turn it which way they list and make it serve for a Buckler against the Wind. They sometimes wear Bonnets made of cloath which they fold into a square figure that they look like Jesuits Caps when they wear them They are a surly ill-natured people and blockish not fit to converse with but yet more friendly than the Calmucs They seldom appear abroad without their Horses upon which they seem as if they were planted Their Arms are a kind of Musquet but the Long-bow is with them more in use which they can handle with great dexterity CHAP. XVII They Author and his Company err in their Course They meet with a Cosac-Bark A great Tempest The Beginning and Limits of the Dagestan-Tartars Their Posture or Frame of Body Habit and Way of Living They are great Plagiaries The Barrenness of the Dagestan Mountains Another great Tempest The Shallop run astrand and is spied by the Tartars who plunder them The strange way of electing the Dagestan Kings They are assailed by another Company who ravish the Woman in presence of her Husband and convert them all to Slaves The Author tortured to detect his Companions which he manfully endures They are brought before the Osmyn and chained ON the 19 ditto we set sail and directed our course towards the Island Tzetzien which we sailed past and had Tzierlan to the leeward having very misty weather all the while which dured 24 hours or more The next morning it cleared up and we got sight of the high Circas Mountains which we aimed at if possible to come nearer the shoar so to coast it all along after we had laboured and lay beating in the Wind about 3 or 4 hours we saw a long neck of Land which we took for an Island and indeavouring to sail through a narrow passage we found our selves in a Quicksand so that we were fain to tack about having sail'd the whole day in vain and at the dawning of the day we came into the Channel which was a good sandy ground and fit for Anchorage Here we met with a Bark having about 60 or 70 Men on board who called to us and prayed us to help them afloat pretending they were aground and fast among the sands which some of our Company would have done but the major part were for the Negative and so oversway'd the rest
not the Benefit of Chronicle or Antiquity and ignorant 〈◊〉 the course of Nature the hand-maid of God do really take it for miracle effected by their Pagan Sovereign CHAP. XI Departure from Siam They take a Junk The Cambodiers put in a Ship with rudder or sails Arrival at Formosa The Junk and all the men cast awa● Description of Formosa with an account of its Products and the Nature of ● Inhabitants as also their Houses Habit and Customes OUr Ship having now taken in her whole Carga we had all o● to come aboard Our Loading was most Bucks-hides San●wood and Amrack which is a kind of Colour used by the Iapone● in their Cabinet-work for Vernishing and on the 12 of April we set S● directing our Course for Tojovan or Formosa About the Pracel banks we descried a Iunk making toward us full Sail having Dutch Colours aloft which made us suspect to be a Pyrat and thereupon our master resolved to throw s● Goods over-board and put himself in a Fighting-Posture But ● we came nearer to the said Junk we saw that it was a Merchant-● and not so well man'd and mounted as we Coming to hail him Commander bad him come aboard and show his Pass but he 〈◊〉 answer that his Champan was in pieces and unfit to put out whereu● the Commander put forth the Shallop well man'd and arm'd to aboard him and demand his Pass but found that he had none b● a Cambodier and loaden with contrabanded Goods we there took him as Prize His Loading did also mostly consist in H● Hides Sanders and Amrak as ours did The men aboard her ● mostly Cambodiers and Chineeses which Capt. Fayer for that was Commanders name put all into the Champan that notwithstand● their evasion was not leaky allowing them neither Sail nor R●der so that without all controversy they were lost it being then leagues from any coast nor could we ever hear what became of the● On the 10 th of May we arrived safely at the Island of Formosa and anchored before the Fort Zelandia where Peter over 't Water was then Governor As we sailed in at the Bay we were surprized with a great Wind insomuch that the Prize we had taken ran upon a seat of Rocks which almost conjoyn or as it were imbrace the Bay like that at Rhodes in the Levant made by Art on which was erected the Image of Apollo so that these are with a gale of Wind somewhat stiffer than ordinary almost unavoidable The Junk broke all in pieces and the men were all lost save 3 Hollanders who saved themselves upon Planks amongst those that were lost were 7 Hollanders the rest Chineezes being about 20 in number The Island Formosa lies almost directly under the Tropic of Cancer ●its nombril or Center being exactly 23 degr Northern latitude ●eaching in a stretch from it's southern Cape which is in 21 degr to the ●weel or Northen Promontory in 25 and is computed to be about 130 Dutch Leagues in circumference facing the coast of Fokien and ●ana Round about this Island are taken abundance of Fish especially Harders which are somewhat bigger than a Haddock This ●ish they salt like Cod and send it for China where it is had in great ●eem The Row of this fish is also held for a great delicacy among ● Chineezes when pickled being red and lies close and round in thin skin which naturally grows about it The Chineezes us'd here●ofore to give the Tenth Fish to the Company for their Liberty to ●sh on the Coasts of this Island Formosa is a very fruitfull Island but lies untill'd the Inhabitants ●ng for the most part a lazy People not much unlike the Spaniards ●er willing to starve than work The most fruitfull part is at present ●der the Jurisdiction of the King of Midag It abounds with Rice ●heat Barley Kaylang Masquinades as also Ginger and Sugar ●ere are many sorts of Trees and Fruit in great abundance as O●anges Lemmons Citrons Pomegranates Guigavas Perang and ●ther Fruits not known in Europe and some only Proper to this Isle which I could never see either in Europe Asia or Affrica as Moupellos and Crambrods Melons or Musk-millions are here so plentiful and delicious that I have been cloyed barely with looking at them when they were cut up besides Water-milions and Pompions which are also of a very good tast and Juycy They have besides many kinds of Plants and Herbs as CABBAGE Hartichoaks c. Sever● rich and medicinal Roots and Seeds as Ananasses China-Rock Potatos not much unlike ours Ubes Kadiang and Fakkafocas Kadj● is a litle green seed almost like that of Coriander which they boyl an● pickle for a Sauce for fresh Fish and gives it an admirable good reli● Fokkafokas has the Shape of a Pear or Quince but 3 times as big an● grows near the ground like a Pompion above it is smooth like gl● and below of a purple and whitish colour this they boil with Be● and Pork as we do Turnips in Holland There are some sheep in ● Island but not very many Harts and Roes there are abundance sometimes 2 or 3 Thousand in a Flock together Wild-goats ● Swine which are very terrible and noxious to Travellers that go a● or unarm'd some they have also tame Beasts of Prey do much an● the Inhabitants that they dare not adventure themselves far with Land as Tygres Leopards Bears c. Apes and Monkeys t● have which are generally litle There is a certain Creature on ● Island which the Hollanders call Den Duyvel van TAJO● that is The Devil of Formosa Being about 2 foot long and 5 in broad upon the back with scales all over the body it has four with sharp claws a sharp long head and a tail thick at the r● and smaller towards the end like a Crocodil This litle beast feeds ● upon Pismires which he catches by laying his Tongue upon a ● where they come to feed upon a slimy matter that runs out o● mouth and that holds them so fast that they cannot get off ag● When he thinks that he has enough he draws in his tongue and vours them It cannot do any harm unless to the Ants which a● natural food but if he see a man come towards him either runs the Earth or rolls himself in like a Hedghog so that to call Devil seems a great improperty This Great Description of a ● Creature we thought not altogether impertinent because it Creature proper only to this Island Formosa affoards all kinds of F● which other Islands in the East have except Parrots And were it● for the great annoyance of Serpents Scorpions Millipedes Lizza● and other vermin it were a very delightsom Land being in a t●rable good Climat and blessed with a most wholsom Air. As to the Frame and Stature of the Natives we cannot give any general Description since those vary according to the pl● they inhabit Their men are mostly well
bodied and lusty especially those in the Valleys and Champane Countrey but those that keep themselves in the Hilly part of the Island not so big of stature Their Women are but short in Comparison of the Men yet are staring beauties having a Full face great Eies a flat Nose long Ears with breasts hanging down like a flitch of Bacon and would have handsom beards too if they did not pull up the hair by the roots The ●ps of their ears they bore through and screw them flat with a horn made for the purpose which they think stands wondrous neat Finally I hold it uncertain whether this Island has had the name Formosa seriously from the Land it 's self or Ironically from the monstrous People that Inhabit it During the time that I was at Formosa I heard often of Men with Tails to which I never gave much heed looking upon it as fabulous Yet I will assure the Reader by all lawfull asseverations that I found ● truth For it happened that a Formosan of the South-Countrey was apprehended for an inhuman Murther committed upon a Clergy ●an After the matter was examined and the Party pronounced guilty he received Sentence to be burned The day of Execution being ●ome the Murtherer was brought forth and tied to a pale As soon as his cloaths were stript off we saw his Tail which was about a foot long and all grown over with Hair some of my acquaintance out of their curiosity went to see him before he was executed having heard that he had a Tail and learned from him that all or most of the South Inhabitants had Tails But as to the certainty of ●hat I can not say much for that not understanding his Dialect ●ey might be mistaken only of this I solemnly aver that I am an ●e-wittness to it and would be loath to impose it upon any man's beleef if it were not truly so Upon Festival days when the Formosans go to present themselves before their Idols they hang great round boards almost like Trenchers to their ears which are artificially painted others hang Shells full of Small holes which loll over their breasts but upon other days they let their ears be naked and without any ornament at all Their Hair is jet-black and long some of them wear it as we do in Europe others tie it up above the crown of the head after the old China fashion or plated Their complexion is of a Swarthy yellow or between a yellow and black but those of Kabelang look more white and pale The Women of Midag Soeten Nowe and Lamea are of ● brown-yellow complexion They are generally of a subtile and acute witt endued with a good memory and tractable enough to learn any Science but beyond all other Indians flexible to Christianity In the Summer-time they are attired onely with a cotton cloath wide about the shoulders like a sheet and tied by two Corners athwart the brest It is also girded about the middle and so hangs down to the calf of the leg Their shoes which are rarely worn among them are made of Goat-skins fastned above the foot with thongs But in the Winter they wear Garments of Furrs as Skinns of Tyg●e● Leopards Bears and Apes Those of Soulang were formerly apparelled as Europeans but all the rest as Chineezes Before the first coming of the Spaniards into that Island the Natives were all naked like as now those that inhabit the Hill-countrey which wear only cloth about their middle The Habit of the Women doth not vary much from that of the Men only with this distinction that their Robes are wrapped abou● their leggs and made fast and sometimes an upper coat which come only to the knees About their head they wear a black Towel knott● before which looks like two Horns Every woman has a Pig which follows her like a dog The Men have sometimes their back brest and arms painted with a kind of colour which never goes out so long as they live Abou● their necks they wear Glass-beads and Bracelets about their arm● Others have great iron hoops which reach from the wrest of t● hand to the elbow having such small crevises where they ope● that it seems a wonder how they get them put upon their arm● About their leggs they wear a string of white shells neatly hung a● set in order that at a small distance it would be taken for Lace The Men of Tokkadekol wear a long Reed which is made fast ● their Girdle behind and comes bending over their head to which they hang a Silk Pendent or streamer about 2 palms broad an● 20 long Upon Festival days they adorn their Heads with the feather of a Cock and hang Bears-tails at their Leggs and arms They have no Trades nor Mechanicks among them but ever● man among them makes what he has occasion for himself When they he down to sleep they only take two Harts hides the one serving for a Bed and the other for a Coverlet They are excellent at swimming and use the Bow well But above all other faculties surpass any that ever I have seen at running no horse being able to hold with them for a stretch of 6 or 8 leagues together and when they run have in each hand a tinkling instrument with which they ever now and then hit the iron hoop about their arm to encourage them forward They are wholly unskilled in Navigation having no other Shipping than a sort of Canoo that is made out of a hollow tree with which they go a fishing This with Hunting is all the employ they follow to sustain themselves But Agriculture as I said before is but litle exercised partly out of their slothfull inclinations and partly out of fear of the Enemie they being continually at Warrs amongst themselves and hate nothing worse than Peace CHAP. XII The Author departs from Formosa His arrival at Japon The Description of Nanguesaque The Condition of the Town A dreadfull fire at Nanguesaque The Stature Nature Habits and Customes of the Japoneezes Departure from Japon Arrival at Formosa the second time Their return to Siam where they take in Elephants The Author beat with a ropes end at the Main-mast and why His return for Holland and End of the first Voyage WHen we had taken in our loading at Formosa I left the Black-Bear and was put aboard a Flyboat called The Lady which was bound for Iapon and set sail on the 15 of Iuly following On the 10 th of August we arrived at Iapon where according to the manner we signified our Arrival Immediatly upon notice given came several Officers aboard who took away our Rudder Sails and Ammonition That done they unloaded our Ship themselves not suffering us to put to our hand to help them The name of the Haven was Nanguesaque a Town which the Portugueezes had built out of the Water but upon their being rooted out of this Island was granted to the Dutch who till their coming
that the more it is use other Countreys the greater is their advantage seeing that have better in this Island than any where else in the World When we had done our Negotiation at Iapon we set Sail for Ba● directing our Course first for Formosa and set Sail the 30 th of Dece● with a hard Wind and a Northerly Mousson so that we 〈◊〉 Formosa in 10 days Sailing and on the 9 th of Ianuary following a● ●at night cast anchor before the Fort Zeelandia Upon our arrival ●e I was put aboard the Post horse which was bound for Siam where ●rrived on the 22 th of Ianuary and there took in the Sieur Van der ●yden Consul for the Company at India who was to go for Batavia Here we took in 8 young Elephants with Provender which was ●mit and Sugar-cane as also a certain quantity of Rice Here I may 〈◊〉 ommit a certain passage which though unadvisedly done 〈◊〉 almost cost me my neck About noon when the dinner was ●dy I went to the Cook for a bowl of hot broth which having ●t I came to bring it to 2 of my Comrades and passing by the Hold ●e of the Elephants wound me about the leggs with his Trunk or ●nout that I came tumbling down Plater and all which being ●lding hot fell upon the Elephants back and made him to roar out ●d stamp that the Ship tumbled and shaked again this so amazed 〈◊〉 Commander that he came running out of his Cabin to know what 〈◊〉 the matter Here I was in a great strait fearing to cry out being ●sible that he was a choleric man and yet durst not stay below for ● Elephant who if he could have come at me would have trod● me as flat as a Flounder but considering with my self that the ●●tain would assuredly come to hear of it one time or another and 〈◊〉 staid long I was sure this beast of vengeance would send me to ● Grandsir I cryed out and the Commander in all hast sent one ●o pull me up So soon as they had got me upon the Deck he gave ●der to tie me to the mast and commanded a fellow to lick me ●ily with a ropes end On the 15 of February we set Sail for Batavia where I was discharged ●y Service and permitted to go for Holland and in order thereto ●nt aboard the Ship Zelandia which was then almost ready to set ● On the 26 we set out having a good Wind and a fine serene ●t Within a few days we sailed through the Straits of Sunda and ●ence set our course for S. Helena On the 21 of April we got sight of Saint Helena where we came safe ●to the Harbour being 7 Sail in all As soon as we were arrived ●e went up into the Island to Hunt fish and range the Woods for ●ranges Lemons and other Fruits Having now refreshed our selves sufficiently and all things in a readiness we set sail in order to the pursuit of our Voyage and ma● Land on the 10 th of August where we bartered with such Goods ● we had aboard for Oxen Sheep and other necessarys and ● forwards for Holland where by God's gracious Conduct we arrived o● the first of September 1651 and put in at Goeree THE SECOND VOYAGE of JOHN STRUYS CHAP. I. An account of the Authors undertaking his Second Voyage A great Sea Storm His arrival at Yarmouth and at Leghorn with a Description of that Town as also of Pica and Florence and lastly of Bologne BEing now safely arrived in my Countrey after a long and tedious Voyage which nevertheless by the Goodness of Almighty GOD was not without some satisfaction for what was past yet finding my self in a State litle better than before and at a loss for Imployment I was brought into a melancholic passion After I had spent some time at Amsterdam in waiting for an opportunity to make another Voyage and not hearing of any suitable to my mind and capacity I resolved to go for Durgerdam to see what entertainment I should find at home and pursuant to that my intention went to the Boat where I casually met with one Capt. Ketel of Durgerdam a person with whom I was formerly acquainted After he had congratulated my happy return asked me What course I was bound to take I told him that I had a desire to undertake a new Voyage but I could not meet with an opportunity to Ship my self upon any considerable Terms Well said he upon what Terms would you go I replied For Sailmaker That occurs very well quoth he for I have been inquiring for one and we had already determin'd to go this Voyage without one And if you like to go with us I will be as civil to you as I may This answer of his was no small matter of comfort to me being then as I have already said destitute of Service The Captain brought me ashoar and in a Victualling-House agreed with me when he had almost made me tipsy with Strongwaters and so got me aboard the Passage-boat where I lay and slept that whole night and the next day till we arrived at the Texel where the Ship lay at anchor When I awaked I began to look about me not knowing where I was at first I thought I was in my Lodging at Amsterdam but perceiving the Vessel tumble and toss too and again I concluded that I was still aboard the East-India man Whilst I was in this quandary the Captain comes down to me which unriddl'd the doubt When I bethought my self what I had done I grew very uneasy and displeas'd at my self for my inconsiderat and unadvised Actions however the Captain gave me fair words and assopiated the Quarrel between Me and My self On the 20 of December 1655 I Shipp'd my self aboard the Fly-boat called Het Huys te Gennip which was bound first for Yarmouth where she was to take in Red-herring On the 14 of Decemb. we left the Texel and on the 20 th got Yarmouth Roads where we met with a contrary Wind which blew so hard that we could carry no Sail but were fain to let all drive and trust to the mercy of GOD. This dured for the space of 12 Watches at which time we made the Texel and to our great happiness had a Pilot aboard that was intended for Yarmouth who brought us safe in at the Spaniards gat for it was impossible for us to keep off at Sea the Ship being so full of Sand that we could not stir the Pump and before we made land found that we had 7 foot Water in the Hold so that had we not luckily put in there then the Ship had not held out one Watch longer When by the Grace of God and Diligence of the Pilot we had got in there we unloaded the Ship stopt the leaks and supplied the defects of our equippage and On the 28 of Decemb. we set Sail having a brave Wind and clear weather and on New-years
day arrived safe at Yarmouth On the 15 of January we weighed anchor and left Yarmouth having taken in our intended Loading and directed our course for the Straits of Gibralter On the 2 of February we entred the Straits and on the 10 th got Leghorn When we lay at anchor here there happened a misunderstanding between Mr. Ketel and my self about a trifling business which brought us both without the bounds of Moderation for proceeding from Words to Blows we were at last soo deeply ingaged that we both tumbled over board Our Master was so kind as to let me climb up but when I came upon Deck put me in Irons that seeing our courage was not yet cooled in the Sea he had that one mean to keep us asunder In the mean while some had taken opportunity to pillage my chest and borrow 116 Ducatoons but I could never be so happy as to learn who was my Creditor so that I had but a small portion left me with which I purposed to go by land to Venice Leghorn is so well known of all Gentlemen and Marriners that have seen Italy that it may seem needless to describe it Nevertheless since it is a part of my Province to take notice of such Towns as are in any regard eminent and famous I shall not ommit to say something briefly of it This City which is one of the chief Havens in renowned Italy was by Francis and Ferdinand great Dukes of Tuscany upon consideration of it's commodious site raised from a mean village to a great Emporium The said Dukes fortified it with a stone wall since which time it was gradually advanced by the encouragement of Trade and is at present strengthned with 5 Bulwarks and 2 Cittadels or Forts the one whereof commands the Haven and the other secures the Town on the Land side towards Pisa which is furnished with 60 great Guns About 6 English miles from the City is a Beacon for direction of Marriners by night there being many Rocks toward the South that are often the occasion of Ship-wrack and is therefore called Malhora These Rocks do cause impetuous breakings of the Sea which yet render the entrance of the Haven more free and secure So that Ships and Galleys may ride safely at anchor in this Road. The City on the out-side appears more magnificent than it is indeed inwardly The Frontispieces as well of Privat as Public Buildings being plaistered upon which are painted Sea-fights Histories and Landschap In the midle of the Town is a stately Market place and an Exchange where as at other Places Merchants meet and negotiate their Affairs Corn Flesh Fish and other necessaries are here very good and cheap which occasions almost all that are bound farther up to put in there for Refreshment On a Corner Stand four statues in brass representing the Father and 3 Sons who attempted to row away a Galley belonging to the Duke of Tuscany and ply'd so strongly that the rest of the Galleys had enough to do to overtake them and were ready to yield it for lost These 4 men were Moors and for that notable Essay are recorded with their Images in mettal which are set one against another with their Hands behind their back Leaving Leghorn I set forward for Pisa but before I was got half way was assail'd with 4 Highway men who were well mounted and arm'd two whereof allighted and clapt their Pistols to my breast bidding me deliver my money In the mean while they fell a searching of my pockets and breeches but not finding my money which I had stitch'd up in the lining of my Coat they gave me 2 bunches of Grapes and rode away On the 22 of February I came into Pisa where I took up my lodging for that night and the next day went to take a view of the Town It is seated at the foot of a great Hill about 8 leagues from the Sea between two Rivers Ausere and Arno and seems to be of ancient Standing It was made an University as some write about the year 1339 but began to grow out of Esteem till restored by Cosmo di Medicis Duke of Florence and afterward by Laurence his Nephew to wh●m Vollaterran and Machiavel ascribe the Founding There are here several fair Churches that dedicate to Saint Iohn is a very stately building and renowned beyond any other Church in Italy for it 's costly Tower which is of admirable rare Workmanship The Church-yard otherwise called Campo Sancto is visited by many strangers which was made at that time when Frederic Barbarossa went to Warrs against the Infidels in the Holy Land to which Expedition those of Pisa assisted him with 50 Galleys But the said Frederic Barbarossa being casually drowned the Galleys returned back again all freighted with Earth of which they say the Church-yard is made On the 23 towards night I left Pisa and went to Florence Between which two Towns is the most delectable Fields and Valleys that ever I have seen either before or since insomuch that I thought my Journey neither long nor irksom though on foot On the 26 I entred Florence which is seated in a pleasant Valley ' and divided by the River Arno into two parts which is the same River that runs by Pisa On the West it hath the Champane land which is admirably delightfull on the East the Countrey is Hilly and stored with abundance of Fruit-trees and on some part it is fortified with the Appenin Hills This City is reckoned about 7 miles in compass and enjoys a subtile and wholsom Air which renders the Natives and Inhabitants more acute and of a sharper Genius than those that Inhabit or are born in places of a grosser The City which is divided by the River is again united by four stately Bridges which so beautify the Town that perhaps gave Charles the Arch-duke occasion to say that this was a City only to be seen on Holy-days The fertile Hills and rich Valleys wherewith it is environed affoard the Inhabitants plenty of all necessaries Here is the Court and Residence of the Duke The Palace being one of the most magnificent in all Italy yet far more spacious and splendid within than without but to recount the spacious Halls Pompous Antichambre Marble Statues and Pictures in the Galleries with all it's Appendencies were an endless labour Right over against the Pallace is a Lifeguard consisting of a hundred Germans Before the Palace is also a very stately Fountain adorned with huge Statues both of Marble and Brass out of which springs Water being all in emblematical representations Upon the Mercato Novo is a very sumptuous Building in which the Citizens meet and treat about the affairs of Merchandise The Palace of the Medici is a stupendious Fabric and for artificial carved works aswell in Wood as Stone and Pictures of the most eminent Italian Masters seems to aemulate the famous Vatican Besides these are many other inferior Palaces Bublic Puildings Churches Chappels
rent with Nails and Splinters having according to the report made by the Chirurgeon above Fifty Wounds and Holes in her Body yet notwithstanding all this was more grieved to hear of the loss of her Husband than sensible of her own calamity However considering the extreme cold season and her weak condition we covered her Warm with cloaths and Bedding The other Woman that was saved was the wife of a Privat Soldier who was great with child had driven Six and Thirty Hours upon a piece of the Hulk and to our great admiration was taken up alive It was certain that she could not have endured any longer being already stiff and benummed and us pale as a Corps So soon as she was brought aboard the Saint George and warmed was delivered of an Abortiv Child but her self revived being cherished by the help of other Women aboard that Ship Shortly after the Ship-wrack came all the Moveables and Goods ashoar Being now come aboard the Saint George and a litle refreshed we steer'd away for Candy where we arrived in safety but what by our unhappy lingring at Argentero and increase of Folk the Victualling grew very low upon which we desired the Governour to supply us with what we had occasion for but Answer was returned us That Candia was of it self but very meanly provided and that they were not in a capacity to assist us We then desired that we might have a Tartan to transport us to the Armade in order to admit our selves again into the service of the Common-wealth To this the Governour gave his assent and with a Ship and 15 men and some Ammonition dispatched us for the Armade On the 3 of May we set Sail from Candy but were put to our allowance at the rate of 2 lib. of Bread each man a day upon a Calculation of 10 days and so consequently 20 lib. the Voyage On the 8 ditto we came close under Mytilene and found that our Provision was already spent so that it was resolved by the major part of the Company that we should go ashoar and see out for something to supply our Wants although we knew that the Island was under the Jurisdiction of the Turkish Emperour However seeing there was as much Danger on the other hand we chused rather to adventure our selves on land than to starv aboard and accordingly 12 Hollanders and 15 Greeks stept ashoar and seeing a drove of Cattel we took 6 fat Kine which we led to the Boat and so got them hoys'd aboard one by one This fair beginning encouraged us to go further within land and about a mile from the Creek where the Tartan lay found a small village of about 10 or 12 Houses but ●ot any appearance of either man woman or child who we concluded had hid themselves for fear In the mean while finding no scarcity of Bread Meal Butter Cheese Honey Wine and Oil we pick'd and chus'd each what he had a mind to and having pack'd up more than we could carry we thought it a sin to leave any thing behind us we therefore went a litle out of the Village where we found about 20 Asses these we took and loaded with our Spoil and in our return to the Shallop espy'd a Castle which before we had not seen and thither we supposed that the Peasantry of that Hamlet were fled to secure themselves But in coming forwards we found that there was but one high way to the Boat from the Village and that close by the Castle for every man had fenc'd in his Ground with a high Flint-wall nevertheless coming past the Castle we met with no obstruction or annoyance in the World till being got about half-way I looked about and spied 200 Troopers following us as hard as they could drive whereupon I cried out Gentlemen Here comes a Command of Horse see what you have to do and resolve without much loss of time for if you do not behave your selves couragiously we are all dead men Be valorous and keep together let us be faithfull and if we must submit to death at this time let it be in a honourable manner The Turks in the mean while drew nearer and nearer and we loath to part with our Plunder made a faint-hearted fellow that was good for nothing else drive the Asses before whilest we drew up into a Body and put our selves into a Posture of defence Our men unanimously gave me for the time being the honour of a Chieftain in lieu of a better As for the Greeks they were greater Strangers to martial Discipline than we and ran confusedly up and down without any order When the Turks were just come upon us I gave charge that they should not fire all at once but by 5 at a time and that not till they had taken good aim and the Enemy within shot With that the Turkish Commander being a Moor advanced upon a stately Horse was bound to level his Carbine but to anticipate him I gave the Word to the first Rank who brought him down to the Ground and three more besides him This falling out luckily the second Rank gave fire and so following the third till we saw above 20 of the Enemies Party dead that gave us no small encouragement but on the contrary so disheartned the Enemy that they began to retreat for besides the great advantage we had of the High walls of Flint which served us for a Rampart our Arms were large Musquets and theirs but small Carbines which at that distance could not do much Execution When they were gone a good way back we climbed over the Wall marched along the high way with four in a Rank and kept our selves together The Turks seeing that faced about on a sudden clapt spurrs to their Horses and came driving upon us with a most horrid shouting thinking so to bring us out of our Ranks and to put us into a disorder which if they could have effected had served their turn But our men the second time faced about and levelled their Musquets till we had them at a due distance and so we fired for a good while together without either gaining or loosing ground till at last the Enemy seeing themselves considerably weakned by the loss of their Leaders were forced to retreat again till they were out of shot but so soon as we began again to march they followed us but in a very easy pace intending as we had colour to beleeve to surprize us at taking our ●es aboard but they seeing us too near the Boat were content to let us alone for that time for had they come we had four small brass Pieces in the Shallop which would have done more service than the Musquets So after this small Bickering we got our Spoil aboard with the loss of 2 dead and 3 wounded in the Conflict CHAP. III. The Authors Arrival at Sante Monte and at Troy The Galleys of Bay come with the Turkish Armade An English Ship ingaged with the Turks defends
well provided with all kinds of Ammonition and Cannon which they cast themselves There are besides these Sconces several other Fortifications and inferior Forts Seated on high Rocks and Walls proportionable to the other encompassed also with very deep Ditches which receive their Water from the Sea Corfu is also of it self very strong and divided into 3 several Wards as Spileo Urio nuovo and Spianato The high Fortifications have no Fountain Water that is good and are therefore fain to make use of Rain Water which they receive and keep in cisterns and pits like those of Amsterdam but without the Walls of Corfu is a certain fountain or Well which they call Cardacchio that affoards good Water and very clear Upon this Island stand 68 Villages and Hamlets all reasonably well peopl'd The Venetian Garrison as it then appeared by their Muster-roll consisted of 400 light Horse and 900 Infantry The Haven is very fair and covenient and comes to the middle of the Island on that side which faces the main Continent On the other side lies Butriato a noted place for Fishing On this Island is much Bottarge made which is a Dish prepared of the Roes of Sturgeon salted dried and for the longer and better preservation thereof dipt in Wax Here is also much Oil of Olives or Oleum omphacinum made and the Vine well cultivated It is also very fruitfull affoarding plenty of Oranges Lemmons Citrons c. besides Honey Wax and Salt for which Commodities this Island is very famous abroad From Corfu we set sail for Cephalonia where there is only one small City raised on a high ground at the South-end of the Island and well fortified but the Haven thereto belonging is large and convenient There appear the Ruins of three other Cities which are said to be dismantled upon the continual Jarrs of the Inhabitants amongst themselves and at length reduced to such a poor remnant Besides this City is a litle Fort in which they repose no small trust It is situated in the latitude of 38 degr and 29 min. and is almost of a triangular form The East-end faces the Cape of Ciarenzo a Promontory of Morea or Peleponessus The North-point Capo Guiscardo confronts with Staumara and the west-angle or Capo Sidro looks toward the main Continent of Affrica Between this angle and Ciarenza which lies to the South-west is a large Bay making a fit Harbour not far from the City Cephalonia called Argoftoli where a great number of Ships may very commodiously ride at anchor At the entrance of this Gulf is a small Island called Guardiana which is fortified with a little Moot or Castelet which they call Nasso They have great scarcity of fresh or spring Water in this Island which is nevertheless of a rich and fat Soil and good pasturage for Sheep which there abound It produceth also vast quantities of Grain Wine Oil Manna Wax Honey Flax and Silk besides the great plenty of Currans which is the Staple-Commoditie of the Land CHAP. VIII The Author's arrival at Sante or Xante It 's admirable Strength Villages and great Scarcity of fresh Water Their Dough for bread kneaded with Wine in stead of Water Arrival at Cerigo Situation of that Island Reliques of the Temple of Venus Arrival at Candia with it's Situation A Description of the Citie as to it's Strength Inhabitants the most eminent Buildings and Churches Climat Soil Vintage Fruits Vegetables Cattel Fowl Plenty of Silk and other Commodities as also the modern Habit and Attire of the Candians A Description of Standia The famous Fight between Lazaro Mocenigo and the Tributary Auxiliaries of Argiers Tripoli Theunis and Zoëli The Fort of Zouaschi taken in by the Proveditor Mocenigo The Turks attacque Tenedos but in vain The Turkish Armada come out of the Dardanelli The Beginning of the Ingagement The Turkish Emperour comes with an Army of 20000 Horse and 80000 Foot down to the shore where from a high Tent he sees ' the Ingagement The Turks loose their Posts and Sail off The incomparable valour of Mocenigo and Bembo who are unluckily killd by the fall of a Sail yard Their Galley blown up with 400 Men. The Loss and Gains on both sides THe Proveditor which we had aboard not willing to loose much time made but short delay at Cephalonia for he had not much time to spend according to his Order and Instructions to go to the Armade wherefore after a short aboad we set Sail and steer'd away for Xante Xante is an Island lying in the latitude of 38 degr about 13 English leagues from Cephalonia On this Island is a City conteining about 4000 Houses or rather Cottages without chimneys that they say is by reason of frequent Earthquakes of which they are in daily jeopardy but the Muniments as well in respect of Site as Strength are very considerable for the Cittadel is built upon a high Hill and what by Nature and what by Art seems to be almost inaccessible well provided also with Ordnance and Ammunition of War suitable On this Island are several Capes the most eminent whereof are Capo del Guardo on the South and Capo de Tiri on the East between which two Capes lies a Commodious Harbour called Porto de Chietto which has a good Road for Anchorage at 8 fathom Water Xante has 45 Villages and Hamlets whereof the most principal lie toward the Sea to wit St. Chietto Littachia Pigalachia Sculicado Saint Nicholo and Natte The last of these has a Harbour fit to receive 100 Galleys In the hilly part of the Island are several Convents Cloysters and Religious Houses of the Greek Church who have also a Bishop here as well as the Romanists but the Greeks exceed the Italians in number and consequently have their Religion in greater splendour You are no sooner come ashoar but you are met by a parcel of Iews who shall ask you if you have any money to change These deal in any contemptible Traffic but especially in Slaves when any Turkish Saiks or other Shipping is brought up by English French or Hollanders Xante is of a very fertile Soil and fruitfull in nothing inferiour to Cephalonia yet exceeds it in Quality and Plenty of Wine but yet scarcer of Water insomuch that the Inhabitants are sometimes constrained to knead their Dough with Wine whereof they make their Bread Here is also prepared the delicate Botarges especially in Iuly and August when the Sturgeon comes from the Archipelago The Land is very populous and all go armed so that when the Turkish Corsairs send some men ashoar to take Slaves do frequently change Fates with them and for that end the Venetians maintain 70 or 80 Horse day and night to ride about the Coast We also brought hither some new Infantry to relieve the old From Xante we sail'd to Cerigo which lies in 36 degr and 45 min. directly over against Capo Saint Angelo before the Gulf of Colochino on the other side it has
told them that I had made my escape by night in a Barque which nevertheless would not pacifie them till they had dawbed the Captain in the Fist which closed his Eies and shut his Mouth effectually So soon as the Brigantines were out of sight the Greeks fearing some trouble might ensue brought me with a Barque to Embro where the Venetian Fleet lay and gave me my Provision aboard with me which I had bought for 32 Rix-dollars Upon my arrival the Commander gave them 2 Pieces of eight for their pains and glad he was to receive me so and they no less joyfull to be rid of me for the Turks had already taken a Civil Magistrate of the Greeks into custody with his Son being but a child who might upon my being found there after they had denied me have had hard mesure and they nevertheless forced to deliver me up at last which if they had the Admiral of the Venetians would have plundered the Town and taken them all for Slaves so that these poor People are in a worse and a more pitifull state under both than they would be if they were entirely under one While we lay before Embro the Fleet was divided into two parts and sent for the respective Islands to get in the Contributions the one part went for Stampalia or Astypalaea which is one of the Cyclades and from thence to Nicsia an Island about 7 Dutch leagues in length and as many in breadth for it is almost four Square the North-side is montanous but towards the South flat and arable On this Island are several Reliques of Gentilism and Idolatry and amongst those a famous Temple in times past sacred to Apollo now dedicate to S. Salvador On the South we saw the Ruins of another Temple built also to the Honour of Apollo The Inhabitants are Greeks Iews and Turks who are sedulous Planters and Cultivaters of the Vine the land answering their Industry with a fertile Soil The City which is called also by the name of Nicsia lies on the East-side of the Island having a very fair and commodious Haven presenting for all Winds and fit to contain Ships of the greatest burthen Here is found a kind of black stone which is held in great esteem not much unlike the vulgar Touch-stone called by the Italians Smeriglio In our Course through the Aegean Sea we touched at Parus Lero Embroa Psyra and visited Metellino where I had been the year before and was transported thence to the Venetian Armada in a Candian Tartan making by the way a good booty as you will find more amply related in Pag. 76 seqq but now I found better opportunity and leisure to take notice of the Island than before Metellino lies in 48 degr near the main Continent of Greece and from the nearest point hardly 3 English leagues distant The City which also bears the same name is situated on the North-west side of the Island fortified with a Castle that commands 2 Havens and is called Moliva There are besides this several strong Holds and fortified Places throughout the whole Island The South-and North-sides are Champain Land but the East and West for the most part hilly and montanous affoarding rich Quarries of white and black Marble and about the Center of the Land it is woody and mostly grown over with Cypres Trees The arable part of the Land which is tilled is of a good Soil and affoards plenty of Corn of which they make two Sorts of bread the one they call Trachana and the other Bouchourt either of which is more durable than our Ship Biscake They make an excellent sort of red Wine which the Turks notwithstanding the voice of their Alchoran greatly covet and swallow when they can have it The Pastures swarm with all kinds of Cattel both great and small in which by reason of their very great abundance they hold commerce with the Islands of the Aegean Sea but especially in a breed of small Horse they have which are in good esteem abroad After we had done our affairs at Mytilene we went for great Scio but being by the way warned of some Fishermen that the Turks had landed a great number of Soldiery there we sail'd past the Island and put in at S. Giorgio di Scyro which is a small Island lying in 47 degr 23 min. being almost of a triangular form where the Inhabitants follow the Vineyard Leaving Scyro we sail'd directly for Delos which now for the most part goes by the name of Sdilly and lies in the latitude of 47 degr The Island is at present of no great note only that it is visited by the curious in Antiquities Here we found many Ruins of Temples and Altars sacred to Heathenish Deities and the Image of Apollo which is in two pieces whereof as the Greeks told us the English saw'd off the Head and carried it away But so much as remains of it I have drawn as may be seen in the Print There appear yet the Ruins of 3 Temples more to wit of Apollo Minerva and Diana besides several pieces of Marble and Alabastre in various figures of Animals as Lions Leopards and the like Here are also many Quarries of a rich sort of Marble and various kinds of Alabastre Provision may be had at very easy rates Hares and Coneys are for their plenty held in disesteem by the Inhabitants Agriculture is a thing quite out of use but the greatest profit it yields the Venetians is the conveniency of the Haven which serves them for a Rendevouz Between Delos and Andros lies the Island Tenos where there is a Castle built upon a high Hill that seems of it self sufficient enough to defend the whole Island In the year 1656 was the greatest part of this Castle blown up with its own Powder by Lightning at what time I was in the Fleet not far from Delos and saw it I beleeve also that a great part of this Island is overflown with the Inundation of the Sea as Zantorini or rather sunk for when we came to anchor at 26 fathom Water we wrought all we could to weigh but thought verily that the Cable would break before any anchor would loose at last it was resolved to try once more for the last and if it would not then come to cut the Cable but at last the anchor came bringing a great peece of a Wall with it In the Gentile age was a Bath at Tenos where every one of what rank or quality soever he was must wash himself or otherwise it was not lawfull for him to enter the Temples of Apollo Minerva or Diana Tenos is of it self fruitfull enough and would produce more grain than indeed it does if the Inhabitants were inclined to that Tillage but they find more profit in Silk having large Woods of Mulbeery Trees so that this Island is the chief place for Silk Stockings in the Levant After we had staid a few daies at Tenos we set
very good and of a low Price From hence we loosed and sailed by many pleasant Islands Towns and an Excellent prospect from Land which was stored with Cattel fruitful Dales Woods Meadows Currents and whatsoever natural Delights that may content the heart of Man On the 29 dito we came to VVasili-gorod a litle Town on the West side of the Wolga and because it was here a level Countrey we tooke the heighth of the Arctic Pole which we found 55 degr and 50 min. above the Horizon This said Town was then without Gates or Walls and is built mostly of wood save only Public Edifices and Religious Houses which are there but few since it has not been long in possession and subject to the Czar or great Duke of Moscovy On the South-side of VVasiligorod is a litle River called the Soura which here gushes out with a violent rushing and buzzing into the VVolga Above VVasiligorod begins the Land of the Ceremish Tartars which extends it self out as far as Casan Those again are divided into two sorts of People The one sort is called Nagorni which are those that inhabit the hilly Countrey and the other Lugowy who dwell mostly in the Valleys The former follow altogether Pasturage the latter Agriculture for which they have a happy Land blessed with a fertile Soil The Inhabitants are a rude and barbarous People utter strangers to good Manners and Learning They speak for the most part the Russian Language but some places there are where they speak Tartarian and in other places they have a peculiar Tongue of their own They are the most stupid Heathens that I have yet seen in all my 3 Voyages have neither Sence nor light of a Divine Power Houses of Worship and Priests Resurrection Heaven and Hell are things they never heard of nor nor will ever learn to know what they are However I may not be so general but that I may except some who have some light and knowledge of an immortal God and such an one as has the direction of all but only rules them as a King upon Earth does his Subjects They are further of Opinion that there are Devils or evil Spirits whose power is limited and circumscribed and that they cannot do any mischief save only in this Life for these doubt much about the Resurrection and for this end they do Sacrifices to them as do the Madagascars that they should do them no harm They tell you of a strange Water by the means whereof the Prince of the Devils comes in horrible and most ugly shapes for which they dread as Children do Bugbears they never saw To that Immortal Deity and divine Essence they offer up all manner of Beasts as Oxen Horses and Sheep which when they do they take the Hide and stretch it out upon a Rack made on purpose making thereby a Fire over which they hang the Flesh to boil When it has seethed long enough they take out a Bowl of the Pottage in the one hand and a Bowl of Metheglin in the other and throw them both upon the Hide upon which it falls into the Fire saying Accept O God this Offering at my Hands and be pleased to hear my Praiers which Praiers do commonly import their own Health or the increase of their Cattel So that their main Opinion about that God is only that he is a good-natur'd and benevolent-Lord and the Devil malevolent which is all that may be gathered from them Others I have seen who worship the Sun Fire and Water Ceremonies about the Dead I could never perceive any save only that when any eminent Man among them comes to dy they make a Feast of Horse-flesh at which all the nearest Relations are present and the Corps given to a ravenous Beast called Briggachol which I have not elsewhere seen That done they hang up his Vestments upon a Tree in memory of him as we do Escutcheons and this was all I could learn of my self or from the Observations of others that had been longer and further within Land Their Habit is as course as their Breeding mostly of Skins or a kind of Canvas Their Upper-coat comes down only to the Thighs and their Breeches and Stockings all one Those that are married shave their Heads but whilst single they let their hair grow but all in one Tuft which they commonly ty up in a ball above their head or plate it as our Jockies do their Horse-tails The Women wear also course Garments having their faces muffled up to the eies but more quaint is the Habit of a Young-woman ready to marry who besides other od accoutrements wears a piece of Wood shaped like a horn directly upon her Fore-head about an Ell in length and at the small end a litle Bell. Circumcision they have not yet learn'd from the Turks or Iews nor yet Baptism from the Christians but have some few Ceremonies about the naming of their Children which is done when they are about half a year old Polygamy is in use among them and that without any order or regard to nearness in Blood for it has been well known that the Father takes the Daughter and so procreates Issue and the Son the Mother after the manner of the Cingaleezes in Ceylon where the Father about marrying his daughter out bereaves her of her Virginity saying Should I plant a Tree and not enjoy the First-fruits my self CHAP. X. The Ship set fast upon a Foord The great Vtility of the Linden-tree Some of the Company drowned Fertility and excellent Soil of the Banks of the Wolga Arrival at Casan Casan taken in by the Russes The Casan-Tartars fight the Russes The Russian Army flee Moscou taken in The Czar becomes Tributary to the Tartars The good Conduct and valour of the Governour of Resan who restores the Czar and the Empire to it 's former Freedom ON the 30 dito we set out again and suddenly were run aground upon a Shallow place where we were very hardly put to it to get off and besides our great Labour we lost an Anchor and a Dragg We were no sooner got clear but we ran immediately upon another Bank and so from one to another that we were almost out of hopes of ever coming through for we saw danger on every side and our Pilot very unskilfull of the River which detarded our Voyage very much The next day we gain'd the Deeps and came before Cusmademianski where we cast anchor and provided our selves with Victualling and Refreshment This City is founded upon a rising ground having on the one side high and steep Mountains and on the other side a level Countrey The Land round about as well the montanous as the flat affoard many Woods and Groves of Linden on Teile-tree The Bark of this tree is good for many uses and therefore pilled and sold by the Inhabitants the Body they hollow and make Tubs Troughs Pales and other Vessels thereof which is the only Traffic and Work I know of in use
his own considerations how that his Countrey in all probability would in case he continued refractory be overrun and he himself with all his Race be secluded from the Monarchy The Tartarians had 2 Generals Brethren and equall in command whereof the elder called Mendligeritz erected a Statue in Moscou to which he obliged and injoyned the Moscovians to pay certain Homages The younger called Sapgeri marched on for Casan where he had his Residence thinking that because it had formerly been a Soveraignty and that the Footssteps and Reliques of a wasted Kingdom were still apparent he might the better erect and rear a new Monarchy upon the Foundations of an old Mendligeritz the elder marched with his Army towards Rhesan well knowing that the great Power of that Province might check him upon opportunity So soon as he was set down before the Town he signified the occasion of his coming sent the Governour a Copy of the Articles signed by the Czar demands the Town and willed him to surrender But the Governour who was a Gentleman both of known Fame and Worth in regard of his rare Conduct in several Battails at the Head of an Army let him know That all the Infidels and Barbarians in the world should not deterr him so far as to transgress his Duty and Oath since he himself had no such Intelligence from his Lord the Great Duke and till he had Assurance of what the Tartarian General had advised him about concerning such Articles he would defend the Town and Cittadel The General upon this Answer sent him the Original of the prementioned Articles and so willed him to avoid Blood-shed but the Governour detained the Messengers and kept the Schaedule resolving to stand out the Siege Upon this the Tartars raised the Siege and attempted to storm the City but those within couragiously defended themselves and plai'd of their Canon together with an incessant shooting of Arrows at the Enemy that they were forced to retreat and remove the Siege to another side of the Town where some disloyal Russians had acquainted them that the place was weakest and consequently the most easy to be storm'd however finding no hopes of gaining the Town the Tartarian General sent a Herauld to urge the Governour to resign the Papers declaring himself thereupon willing to draw off his Forces which the Governour refusing the General left the Town Several Narratives were sent off to Moscou which occasioned a general Joy and incouraged the Townsmen to revolt and unanimously fall upon the Garrison who being incapable to make resistance were fain to submit and beg Quarter The Statue of Mendligeritz was also pulled down and broke to pieces in detestation of his Tyranny The Czaar immediately upon these news gathered all the Forces he could which when drawn to field amounted to 25000 Men and marched forward to Casan where he gave the Tartarians Battail and after a hot fight gain'd the Camp the Enemy retiring into the Western Provinces of Tartary shortly after the Czar died without the performance of any honorable atchievment save that during the time of his Reign But Ivan Basilowitz son to the deceased Emperour seeing the good footsteps of his Father and perceiving a sure foundation Levies a new Army and recruits the Old with well experienc'd Germans but having no trusty Person to whom he durst commit the new Army as Commander in chief he joyns the Forces himself leading marches so in the Head to Casan which City when he had besieged 8 weeks and lost many men fearing likewise that Mendligeritz might come to assist them he gave them Offers of Peace which nevertheless the Tartars would not accept expecting succour from the Field-Army Ivan Basilowitz thought it high time either to take up the Siege or to storm it on a sudden which last he resolved upon and accordingly set 70 German Pioneers at work who did the work so effectually and without discovery of the Enemy within that they had under-mined the Northeast Gate in the space of 24 Hours or less and thereupon blew it up which done the Moscovians surprized them within and made themselves Masters both of the Town and Cittadel The Townsmen obtained Quarter althoug the Great Duke had threatned the Contrary for that they had twice rebelled against the Imperial Crown and of their own accord sent succour to the Enemy when it was not in the lest urged from them The Czar being now Master of Casan fortified it with a strong Wall Towers and Bulwarks But now to our present Journal After the Deputy of Casan had throughly visited our Ship and well entertained by our Officers aboard he departed with the Metropolitan ashoar and entreated us all to come up to Casan which we did and received a reciprocal kindness from him there When we returned aboard the Mobile followed us with Music and Dancing a good part of the way On the 10 th we received a good Quantity of Lead aboard which we were to unload at Astrachan On the 13 th I got permission of the Officers to go up to Casan to buy some Biscake for my own use which I had for a mean price and having much more than I could use I sold it and got a considerable profit as well of the Officers as the Foremast men for we were to take care for our own Victualling CHAP. XI Departure from Casan The strange manner of taking Fish Cities demolished by Tamerlan The Ship run fast aground The Salt-Pans and manner of making Salt Difficult Sailing in the Wolga A New City built for defence against Robbers and Pyrates The great abundance of Liquirice about Astrachan The Land of the Calmuc-Tartars ON the 17 ditto leaving Casan we set Sail and that morning were aground 2 several times but without much difficulty got clear again On the 18 we came close to an Island called Staritzo where we anchored our Pilot went ashoar to view the said Island and coming about 3 furlongs within land found stones of the shape and bigness of Lemmons which being broken had within the similitude of a star but those not all alike in Colour for some were like Gold others like Silver and others of a Yellow and Tawny colour This Island is situated in 45 degr 31 min. being of it self about 3 Dutch Leagues in length and 2 broad On the 19 we got the Island Potenski where we came to anchor expecting that a great storm would come on Upon the 22 we sailed past the Buytma which is a branch of the famous River Lanca being about 12 Dutch Leagues from Casan This same River has it's Rise or Fountain about Chambretoky which lies to the North-east of Casan Here we met with a company of Fishermen of whom we bought some Bream which they take in great Abundance and after an od way which if time had permitted us we would have learned On the 23 we came to a very pleasant Coast where we went to ashoar and found there the Ruins of a great City