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A07834 An itinerary vvritten by Fynes Moryson Gent. First in the Latine tongue, and then translated by him into English: containing his ten yeeres trauell through the tvvelue dominions of Germany, Bohmerland, Sweitzerland, Netherland, Denmarke, Poland, Jtaly, Turky, France, England, Scotland, and Ireland. Diuided into III parts. The I. part. Containeth a iournall through all the said twelue dominions: shewing particularly the number of miles, the soyle of the country, the situation of cities, the descriptions of them, with all monuments in each place worth the seeing, as also the rates of hiring coaches or horses from place to place, with each daies expences for diet, horse-meate, and the like. The II. part. Containeth the rebellion of Hugh, Earle of Tyrone, and the appeasing thereof: written also in forme of a iournall. The III. part. Containeth a discourse vpon seuerall heads, through all the said seuerall dominions. Moryson, Fynes, 1566-1630. 1617 (1617) STC 18205; ESTC S115249 1,351,375 915

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these white marbles might haue a more beautifull race The Innes of this Towne were base and onely fit to entertaine Artificers and here I paid for a poore supper of herbes egges and chessenuts ten baeli The second day in the morning I went forward in my iourney on foot and that alone first three miles to the confines of the Marquesate of Masso then foure miles in the Territory of Genoa to a strong Fort belonging to that State and seated in a plaine and I paid for my passage ouer the Riuer Magra two baeli and after I went three miles ouer mountaines abounding with Oliue trees and the tree Lecha yeelding a fruit like the Oliue and so I came to Lirigi a Hauen Towne vpon the Tirrhene sea whence we were to sayle by the shore to Genoa There we expected passengers and a good wind for some few daies And at the same time there was the French Cardinall of Ioyeuse who was to saile into France I paid each night foure bolinei for my bed and eating vpon reckoning I spent lesse then two giulij by the day They vse to make this voyage to Genoa in little Barkes called Fregate and a lesse kind of boates called Feluce and each night to strike into some Port vpon the Coast. I passed in a Feluca and paid three reali for my passage The first day we sayled in a short space from Lirigi to Wien a Hauen not farre distant vnder a promontory at the enterance into this sea but the wind being high and our boat little and somewhat ouer loaded and the marriners themselues shewing no great confidence we durst not put forth to sayle any further I paid a cauelotto that is foure bolinei for my bed with a companion and six bolinei for my supper The second day the wind being somewhat calmed we sailed not without danger thirty miles to Sestri another Hauen This day was the day of Saint Katherine the Patronesse of Marriners who thinke that no man was euer drowned that day but they obserue that after that day the winds vse to grow boisterous I would willingly haue gone by land but this Coast being all of high Rockes there was no good high way ouer them nor commodity for passage Yet you cannot imagine a more fruitfull and pleasant place then the narrow vallies and hils lying vpon the sea side onely this coast lying vpon the south sunne breathing fier out of Affricke is subiect to great heat in summer time This Territory doth so abound with fruitfull trees and flowers as the markets are furnished with them in the very moneth of December It yeeldeth noble wines namely Lavernazza and in villages called Cinqueterre the wine called Le lagrime di Christo that is the teares of Christ which is so pleasant as the Ialians say that a Dutchman tasting it did greatly lament that Christ had not wept in his Conntrey At Sestri we had delicate white bread and excellent wine as likewise in all this iourney and all things at a cheape rate and each man spent there nine bolinei The third day we sailed ten miles ouer an arme of the sea to Porto Fino called of old the Hauen Delfinus now they call it Fino for the goodnes thereof On the East side of this Promontory the sea was most calme but when we passed to the West side the winds were so high and the waues so troubled as we had almost beene cast away and were by force driuen vpon the side of a Rocke where my consorts trusted to their crucifixes vowes and beades vpon which they number their praiers and my selfe creeping vpon hands and knees with great difficulty first got to the top of the rocke where being in safety the name of the Hauen came in my mind which answereth to my Christian name and thanking God for my deliuerance from this danger I was glad that I escaped christening in this Hauen of my owne name After my other consorts climbed to me and thence we went on foot ten miles by the twilight of the euening and Moone light to a village where each man vpon reckoning paid sixe bolinei for his supper The next morning early before day breake we went forward on foot our consorts of Genoa often warning vs to be silent for feare of theeues and after we had gone sixe miles we came by the breaking of the day to Genoa By the way we did see a Village all ruined and they told vs that Turkish Pirates landing suddenly had spoiled the same and burnt it and had pulled downe the Churches and Altars and among other Prisoners had taken away a most faire Virgine from her bridegroomes side who had married her the day before The description of Genoa A The Fort of the sea banke B Statuaes erected to the builders thereof C the Pallace of Andreetta D' Auria without the wals vpon the sea D the statua of Andrea d' Auria vpon the wall E the new Fort F the new streete most stately built G the Cathedrall Church K Saint Mathewes Church L the Dukes Pallace M the inner Hauen N the Tower Faro and the ruines of the Fort called La Briglia that is the bridle PPPP three gates of the City and the fourth leading to the Hauen On the North-east side where the sea lies P vpon the City we entered and at the very enterance we did see two stately Pallaces of Georgio d' Auria and a Gentleman called Seba and sixe other Pallaces but lesse stately Gtnoa is seated vpon the sides of mountaines and hils declining from the highest mountaine on the Westside towards the East and to the sea side Vpon the foresaid North and North-east side werelong suburbs and two gates and without the wals a Riuer fals from the Westerne mountaines towards the East and so into the Sea On the South-side is the outward Hauen in the forme of a halfe moone vpon the horne whereof towards the East lies the sea banke called La Mola about 600. paces long which keepeth off the waues of the sea that beat vpon the City on the East side And in the middest of this bank is a A Fort built to detend the Nauy There also are certaine statuaes B erected to the founders of the building And in the furthest corner of this hauen towards the City is an M inner hauen compassed with wals where the gallies lie vnder a couered biniding Neer that is the Armory of the City the chief gally in the Port called La Reale the Regal was about seucnty fiue walking paces long and they sayd that foure hundred Rowers belonged to the same At the other horne of the outward Port towards the south-west is the N tower Faro vpon firme land kept by certaine watchmen who by night hang out lights to direct the marriners at sea Neere that lies the Fort Lahiigita that is the bridle which the French King Lewis the twelfth fortified but the Citizens expelling the French out of the City demolished the same Thence as you walke
Titus Liuius a famous Historian And Lucius Aruntius Stella and Caius Valerius Flaccus all Poets celebrated by Martiall and Augelus Beoleus a Stage-player of wonderfull elocution dying in the yeere 1542 and Thraseas Peto a famous Souldier hated by Nero and Andreas Mantinia the best Painter of his age being knighted and dying about the yeere 1517 and Augustinus Zoto a Painter with other famous men The Second Booke CHAP. I. Of my iourney from Paduoa to Venice to Ferraria to Bologna to Rauenna and by the shore of the Adriaticke Sea to Ancona then crossing the breadth of Italy to Rome seated not farre from the Tirrhene Sea WHosoeuer comes into Italy and from whence soeuer but more especially if he come from suspected places as Constantinople neuer free from the plague hee must bring to the Confines a certificate of his health and in time of any plague hee must bring the like to any City within land where he is to passe which certificates brought from place to place and necessary to bee carried they curiously obserue and read This paper is vulgarly called Bolletino della sanita and if any man want it hee is shut vp in the Lazareto or Pest-house forty dayes till it appeare he is healthfull and this they call vulgarly far ' la quarantans Neither will the Officers of health in any case dispence with him but there hee shall haue conueuientlodging and diet at his pleasure In the spring of the yeere 1594 the Italians beginning the yeere the first of Ianuary I began my iourney to see Italy and taking boat at the East gate of Paduoa the same was drawne by horses along the Riuer Brenta hauing shot two or three small bridges and passed twenty miles we came to the Village Lizzafusina where there is a damme to stop the waters of Brenta lest in processe of time the passage being open the Marshes on that side of Venice should be filled with sand or earth and so a passage made on firme ground to the City which they are carefull to preuent and not without iust cause hauing found safety in their Iles when Italy was often ouerflowed by barbarous people Besides they say that this damme was made lest this fresh water should bee mingled with their salt waters since all the Gentlemen of Venice fetch their fresh water by boats from thence the poorer sort being content with Well water Heere whiles our boat was drawne by an Instrument out of the Riuer Brenta into the Marshes of Venice wee the passengers refreshed our selues with meat and wine and according to the custome agreed vpon the price of our meat before wee did eat it Then we entred our boat againe and passed fiue miles to Venice vpon the marshes thereof and each man paied for his passage a lire or twenty sols and for a horse more then ordinary that we might be drawne more swiftly from Paduoa to Lizzafusina each man paied foure sols but the ordinary passage is only sixteene sols We might haue had coaches but since a boat passeth daily too and fro betweene these Cities most men vse this passage as most conuenient For the boat is couered with arched hatches and there is very pleasant company so a man beware to giue no offence for otherwise the Lumbards carry shirts of Male and being armed as if they were in a Camp are apt to reuenge vpon shamefull aduantages But commonly there is pleasant discourse and the prouerb saith that the boat shall bee drowned when it carries neither Monke nor Student nor Curtesan they loue them too well to call them whores the passengers being for the most part of these kindes I remember a yong maide in the boat crossed her selfe whensoeuer an old woman looked vpon her fearing she should be a witch whereat the passengers often smiled seeing the girle not onely crosse her selfe for feare but thrust her crucifix towards the old womans eyes I said formerly that two Riuers Medoaci runne through Paduoa and that the greater by the name of Brenta running to the village Lizzafusina is stopped with a damme lest it should mingle it selfe with the salt marshes of Venice and that also the lesser Riuer by the name of Bachilio passeth through Paduoa This lesser streame runneth thence into the ditch Clodia and going out of it makes a hauen called de Chiozza which lieth in the way from Venice to Farraria and there it diuideth it selfe into two streames and entring the salt marshes makes the hauen of Venice called Malamocco Besides other Riuers falling from the Alpes through Frioli do increase these marshes which are salt by the tides of the sea though the same doth very little ebbe or flow in this Mediterranean or Inland sea And this hauen Malamocco is very large and deep and is defended with a banke from the waues of the Adriatique sea The Description of Uenice Vpon the West side of venice beyond the marshes lies the Territory of Paduoa On the North side beyond the marshes lies the Prouince Frioli On the South side beyond the marshes lies partly the firme land of Italy and partly the Adriatique sea On the East side beyond the marshes lies the Adriatique sea and the City consisteth all of Iles compassed round about with the saide marshes A The great channell B The market place of Saint Marke seated in the first Sextary of Saint Marke C The Cathedrall Church of Saint Peter the seate of the Patriarkes seated in the second Sextary called Caestelli Oliuolo D The third Sextary on this side the channell called di Canarigio E The Church of Saint Iames lies neere the bridge Rialto and is seated in the fourth Sextary of Saint Paul being the first of them beyond the channell The rest of the City is diuided into two other Sextaries beyond the channell namely the fifth di S ta Croce and the sixth de Dorso duro F The Church of Saint George the greater G And the Church of Santa Maria delle gratie both lie in the Sextary di Santa Croce H The Iland Giudecca belongs to the sextary di Dorso duro K The banke of the sea vulgarly Il Lido L The Iland Murana M The new Lazaretto N Mazorbo O Buran P San Franscesco del deserto Little Ilands Q Torcello R Duo Caestelli S La Certosa T S ta Hellena V Lazaretto Fecchio W Chioza X Malamocco the hauen within the sea banke Y Pcuegia an Iland Z San ' Georgiod ' Alega in the way as we come from Paduoa to Venice a little Iland 〈…〉 La Concordia a little Iland The Henetians of Paphlagonia their King Palemon being dead at the siege of Troy ioyned themselues to Antener and possessing these parts after they had driuen out the Euganeans called the countrey Venice and through their great vertue were made Citizens of Rome and their chiefe men Senators thereof But when Attila King of the Huns inuaded Italy and the Empire of the West being weakned did destroy the same the said Henetians came out of
of birds Nightingales flying loose in the groues and the most pleasant prospect In this Castle Marino we made some stay to expect some passengers which were longer detained at Rome by their businesse And the Pope in this place giues sixty Horsemen Musqueters to accompany the Carrier vulgarly called Il Procaccia and to defend him from the spoyling of banished men vulgarly called Banditi And for this cause all passengers goe in this Carriers company neither dare any passe alone For these banished men lurking vpon the confines of the Popes State and the Kingdome of Naples many times make excursions as farre as these mountaines to doe robberies and the weeke last past they had killed many passengers and had robbed the Carrier who doth not onely beare letters but leades many Mules laded with goods The chiefe of these banished men was the Nephew so they call Church-mens bastards of the Cardinall Caietano who hauing eight thousand crownes yeerely reut in these parts was banished by the Pope and he vnderstanding that a Roman Gentleman passed with that Carrier who had great friends about the Pope and hoping to make his peace by taking him prisoner did for that cause assaile that Carrier and his guard till hearing that the Gentleman while they fought had escaped to the next City he withdrew himselfe his men into the mountainrs This danger from banished men makes the iourney to Naples very trouble some and it is not safe nor lawful for any man to leaue the company of this Carrier So as the passengers rise before day and take horse and so sitting all the day yet ride not abouc twenty miles for the slow pace of the mules and at noone they haue no rest onely when they haue the Inne in sight so as there is no danger of theeues they are permitted to gallop before that they may eat a morsell or rather deuoure it for as soone as the mules are past they must to horse againe euery man not onely making hast for his owne safety but the souldiers forcing them to be gone who are more slow then the rest To conclude the mules going a very slow pace it was very irkesome to the passengers to rise before day and to follow them step by step Hauing dined at Marino and our full company being come we together with our guard of horse-men rode eight miles to Velitri through wooddy mountaines infamous for the robberies of banished men and vpon our right hand towards the South and towards the Tyrrhene sea was a Lake vulgarly called Lago Nympao which the old Romans delighted with doing difficult things vsed to fill with sea water and therein to make nauall fights One wood by which we passed was more dangerous then the rest where the Pope maintaines forty foot to assist the Guard of horse till they haue passed the same The discent of the last mountaine neere Velitri was two miles long yet pleasant by reason of the multitude of Vines growing vpon short stakes which vse to yeeld the richest wine Velitri is by writers called Belitre an old City of the Volsci and famous for the birth of the Emperour Augustus and the dwelling of the Octauian Family The second day in the morning we rode thirteene or foureteene miles to Sermoneta and in the midst of the way our guard of horseleft vs and their trumpet asked of euery man a gift in curtesie which we gladly gaue and there new horsemen meeting vs tooke vpon them our guard After dinner we rode eight miles to a little towne La casa nnoua and fiue miles to an old City which Liuy callesh Priuernum yet other Co'mographers write that the ruines thereof lie in a plaine two miles off whereas this is seated vpon a mountaine yet growing to a City by the decay of the former is called Priuernum and vulgarly Piperno We passed through wooddy mountaines full of Oliue trees on the right hand and a fruitfull plaine of corne and many Orchards of Orange trees and like fruits on the left hand And among the mountaines on the right hand the most remote was called Circello of the famous Witch Circe and it is a Promontory hanging ouer the sea where at this day they shew the cup in which Vlisses drunke the inchanted potion and vnder the hollow caues of this mountaine the Turkish Pirates lurke in the summer time and rob the Christians The last fiue miles of our iourney all the passengers and souldiers were put before the Carrier and his Mules for then we turned out of the plaine towards mountaines on the left hand where as they said the banished men had the weeke before assailed the Carrier After we had dined the horse-men left vs and certaine foot did after guide vs from one City to another The third day in the morning we had a guard of horse-men and rode twelue miles to Terracina an old City so called in the time of the Emperour Tiberius and we passed through a fertile plaine of corne on the right hand towards the Sea and stony hils full of Oliue trees on the left hand towards the Land and many vineyards and ruines of houses neere the City After we had this morning rode two miles we passed by an old Monastery called la Badia della fossa nuoua where they haue a monument of Saint Thomas Aquinas but his body was carried to the City Tolouse in France when the French-men had the Kingdome of Naples And after we had rode ten miles our guard of horse left vs and certaine foot meeting vs conducted vs other 2 miles In this way the waters in many places at the foot of the hils did stinke of brimstone but infinite Laurel trees on all sides refreshed our smel Terracina in the flourishing time of Rome was called Anxur and it is seated vpon a mountaine as most of the foresaid Cities are and it lieth vpon the sea which the land imbraceth like a halfe Moone this Citie lying vpon one horne thereof and the Citie Caieta vpon the other of which Citie the Cardinall had name who did oppose himselfe to Luther The flouds of the sea make great noise with striking vpon hollow caues of Rocks A souldier came out of the Tower of Torracina and demaunded of euery man fiue baocci which we paid though it were onely due from them who had portmanteaues with locks Neere this City we did see the ruines of a stately Theater After dinner we rode ten miles to the City Fondi through a stony way being part of the old way of Appius and vpon the right hand we had a plaine towards the sea and vpon the left hand rockey Mountaines towards the land where wee passed by the Citie Monticello At the mid-way the Popes guard hauing left vs we came to two old ruined walles shutting vp the way and lying from the Mountaine to the sea This place called Sportelle deuides the territories of the Pope and the King of Naples and is kept by a Garison of Spaniards I remember
the City though it were taken by the enemy A little beneath is the monastery of the Carthusians and vpon pretence to enlarge that monastery the Emperour Charles the fifth built this most strong Castle to bridle the wonted petulancy and inconstancy of the Citizens and from thence there is a most sweet prospect as well into the City as to the bayes of the sea Towards the South-side is the Hauen and beyond the f bay of Naples lies firme land for the Sea comming in from the West makes this bay Vpon this side is a fortification for the safety of the hauen which is called g Il Molle it driues off the waues of the sea and makes the Hauen like an halfe Moone and therein at this time were twenty gallies and ten small ships The Armory lies vpon the Sea from whence the gallies and ships and land forces are armed and among other things there is kept the rich Armour yet without any ornament of gold of the French King Francis the first which he did weare when he was taken prisoner at Pauia Thereby lies a large market place in which is a faire fountaine with many Images casting out water Also there is a Tower where they set light by night to guide sea men into the Hauen In the said market place is a stone vpon which many play away their liberty at dice the Kings officers lending them money which when they haue lost and cannot repay they are drawne into the gallies for the Spaniards haue slaues of both sexes On the outside of the said Molle or fortification vpon the hauen towards the west neere to the shore lies the most strong fort called l Castello nuouo seated in a plaine and built by Charles the first of Arion and so fortified by Alphonso the first King of Aragon as it is numbred among the chiefe forts of Europe The inward gate is most faire all of marble and it hath a little fouresquare hall in which the Parliaments are yeerely held and the Viceroyes weekely sit in iudgement Neere this hall is a faire tower in which the Kingly ornaments are laid vp namely a scepter of gold with great diamonds vpon the top the sword with the haft and scabbard of gold adorned with precious stones the Kings Crowne shining with precious stones a golden crosse an huge pot of gold set with precious stones great Vnlcornes hornes and the chiefe kinds of precious stones Further towards the West yet so neere as the garden of the Pallace lies vpon the ditch of this Castle is the k Viceroyes Palace which hath a large and most sweet garden and delicate walk paued with diuers coloured and engrauen marbles And in this garden are two banquetting houses whereof one is very stately built and hath a sweet fountaine close to the table continually powring out water Also there is a delicate cage of birds wrought about with thick wyer and it is as big as an ordinary stil-house delicately shadowed round about wherein are many kinds of singing birds as well of Italy as forraigne Countries A little further within the water is the h Castle of the egge built vpon a rock by the Normans which Rocke is of an ouall forme and gaue the name to the Castle vulgarly called Castel ' del ' vuono which at this day is ruinous and some say it was the Pallace of Lucullus but it is certaine that the Normans built it as they did also another Castle which is old and called the Capuan Castle of the adioining Capuan-gate Naples was of old called Parthenope of one of the Syrens there buried whom they write to haue cast her selfe into the sea for griefe that by no flattery shee could detaine Vlisses with her The Citizens of old Cuma built Naples and left it should grow great to the preiudice of Cuma they pulled it down againe till at last oppressed with a great glague vpon the warning of an oracle they built it againe and changing the old name Parthenope called it Naples which in Greeke signifies a new City It is seated at the foot of hils and mountaines in length from the North-east to the South-west or rather seemeth to be triangular whereof two corners lie vpon the sea and that towards the West is more narrow then the other and the third blunt corner lies towards the mountaines Vpon the East-side there be pleasant suburbs and vpon the West-side more large suburbs but vpon the North-side without the wals there be onely some few eeeee scattered houses built vpon the sides of hils The houses of the City are foure roofes high but the tops lie almost plaine so as they walke vpon them in the coole time of the night or at left in generall the tops are not much erected like other parts of Italy and the building is of free stone and sheweth antiquity but the windowes are all couered with paper or linnen cloth for glasse windowes are most rare in Italy and as it were proper to Venice It hath three faire broad and long streetes namely La Toletano la Capuana and la vicaria the rest are very narrow There be eight gates towards land and as many towards sea among which the Capuan gate since the Emperour Charles the fifth entered thereat is decked with monuments and statuaes There be in this City very many Pallaces of Gentlemen Barons and Princes whereupon the City is vulgarly called Napoli Gentile Among these two Pallaces are most stately one of the Duke of Greuina which the King of Spaine forbad to be finished the other of the Prince of Salerno There be foure publike houses called Seggij in which the Princes and Gentlemen haue yeerely meetings and there also is the daily meeting of the Merchants Almost euery house hath his fountaine of most wholsome waters Neere the market place are many Innes but poore and base for howsoeuer the City aboundeth with houses where they giue lodging and meat yet it deserues no praise for faire Innes of good entertainement On all sides the eye is as it were bewitched with the sight of delicate gardens aswell within the City as neere the same The gardens without the wals are so rarely delightfull as I should thinke the Hesperides were not to be compared with them and they are adorned with statuaes laberinthes fountaines vines myrtle palme cetron lemon orange and cedar trees with lawrels mulberies roses rosemary and all kinds of fruits and flowers so as they seeme an earthly Paradice The fields are no lesse fruitfull bringing forth abundantly all things for the vse of man The Kings stables without the wals are worth the seeing for the horses of this Kingdome are much esteemed and if any man buy a horse to carry out of the Kingdome he payes the tenth part of the price to the King The City being seated vpon the sides of hils and by lying open to the South being subiect to great heates and most parts of the streetes being narrow so as in walking the heat
Barber-Surgean of a ship yet could I neuer doubt of recouering my health but my minde still presaged that I should returne home Yet when diuers times I began to 〈◊〉 and presently by the heate of the clime and ill aire of the place had been cast downe againe I resolued to follow their counsell who perswaded me to trie if the aire of the sea would strengthen me Therefore my deare friend Master George Dorington hauing sent me one hundred zechines for my expences the great summes of money which I had being all spent by the accidents of my brothers death and my sicknesse the particulars of which expence I omit because in this griefe and weakenesse I had no minde to note them onely for a taste remembring that I paid a piastro each day to a poore man who continually cooled my heate with a fan Master Dorington I say hauing sent me money and I hauing prouided all necessaries for my iourney at last vpon Thursday the tenth of October after the new stile and in the yeere 1596 I was carried aboard a French Ship of Marsiles partly by the helpe of Porters partly in a boate being so weake as I could not stand This ship was called Iohn Baptist and the Christian name of the Master was Simon with whom I had couenanted that I paying him thirtie piastri or duckets for my selfe and my seruant he should set vs on land in some good Hauen of the Iland Candia and if it were possible in the chiefe Citie thereof called Candia and lying on the North side of the Iland whence I was now resolued to take my iourney to Constantinople leauing all thought of going by land Vpon Friday the eleuenth of October we sayled prosperously but after the windes grew so contrary as we were driuen to the South of Candia Therefore the French Marriners murmuring against vs as hereticks causing their ill passage and there being no hope left with those windes to set vs on land at Candia the chiefe Citie the Master of our ship sent vs in his boat with some few Marriners which hee least esteemed that we might sayle to land being fiftie miles distant Thus vpon Thursday the three and twentieth of October hauing sayled eight howers in great danger towards the euening we landed vnder a Promontory of Candia where there was neither citie village house nor cottage so as plenty of raine falling that night yet we were forced to lie in an open boat where my companion or seruant not knowing our danger slept soundly but my selfe durst neuer close mine eyes fearing lest these Marriners being Marsilians who at that time little loued the English should offer vs violence to gaine our goods This consort or seruant of mine was an English man and by profession a Cooke and was come into these parts to serue Master Sandy who being sent from London to be the English Consull at Haleppo as he passed from Constantinople thither died in Asia Minor of the same disease whereof my brother died and in the same moneth This seruant being after his Masters death to returne into England I tooke to attend mee that I might by his company auoide solitude and mittigate some part of my sorrow He was no sooner entered into the French ship but he presently fell sicke and not able to serue himselfe could not giue me the expected comforts much lesse doe me any seruice but greatly increased my charge spending all vpon my purse much troubled me hauing not himselfe the least skil in any forraine language so as he recouering not till we came to Venice where being among Christians I had small vse of his helpe hee was rather a burthen then a comfort to me When I was to enter the French ship I laid in prouisions of Hennes Egges Damaske Prunes and other things but my languishing stomack not desiring not being able to digest any other then salt meate these prouisions fell to the share of my sicke seruant and my self being nothing but skin and bone as one that languished in a Consumption my bloud and humours renued with these salt meates could not but weaken my future health so as I hauing been alwaies very leane after by decay of naturall heate became very fat and hauing lost the retentiue faculty of my stomack so as I continually cast all that lay vpon it so soone as in the morning I came into the aire I had no remedie against this weakenesse but the taking of Tobacco The French Marriners who brought vs to the shoare of Candia parted from vs on Friday the twenty fiue of Iuly after the new stile early in the morning and when I had well rewarded them for their paines then first they shewed me aboue the wilde Rockes called Calisminiones a Monastery of the Greeks some three miles distant and called Santa Maria Ogidietra We being left alone and staying there fasting till noone at last espied and called to vs two men passing by vpon the Mountaines but they thinking vs to bee Pirats fled away as fast as they could Presently behold my man comming out of the Wood and bringing with him an Asse which hee had found there who perswaded me to lay my baggage on that beast and so to walke softly towards the Monastery I willingly tried my strength and leaning vpon our two swords for want of a staffe and yet often falling went forward like a snaile till despairing of going further I fell vpon the ground After an howers space a Shepheard passing by and I shewing him gold and naming Monastery which word he vnderstood he swiftly ran to the Monastery and telling the Monkes called by the Greekes Caloiri our state and condition they presently sent a seruant to vs who in the Italian tongue telling vs the great danger wherein we should be if we staied vpon those Mountaines till night aduised vs to make haste to the Monastery Thus driuen with feare and incouraged by his company I tried againe to goe forward and with great trouble passed one mile ouer the Mountaines For leaning as I said on two swords and vpon the passage of any steepe Mountaine by reason of the lightnesse of my head creeping vpon hands and feete with great difficulty I went so farre And now being not able to goe any further no not to saue my life behold a boy who came to water his Assears Fountaine adioyning to whom the seruant of the Monkes gaue a piastro and so whether he would or no tooke his Asse and set me vpon it and so at last wee passed the other two miles longer then three English miles and came to the Monastery The Caloiri or Monkes receiued vs curteously and gaue vs such victuals as they had namely Pomegranates Oliues Bread and sharpe Wine which were no good meates for sicke men hauing fasted almost two dayes Also they conferred louingly with vs but still desiring vs to keepe aloofe from them At bed time they gaue vs a straw mat to lay vpon a plastred floare for
cast vp in the middest of the Sea with an eruption of flames and of Brimstone and that they are not inhabited but are commonly called the Diuels Ilands because many ships casting anchor there and fastning their Cables vpon land haue had their Cables loosed by spirits in the night and so suffered shipwrack or hardly escaped the same The night following we sailed in the middest of many Ilands which made that Channell very dangerous and for my part I was more affraid of the danger because our Candian Merchant growing acquainted with an harlot in the ship was not ashamed to haue the vse of her body in the sight of the Marriners that watched and much blamed him for the same Vpon Wednesday the two and twentie of December we sailed by the Iland Paros celebrated by Poets for the fine Marble growing there and so we came to the Iland Naxos two hundred miles distant from Candia Naxos and the adiacent Ilands had their owne Duke of old but now are subiect to the Turke as the other Ilands bee for the most part And our Marriners dwelling in this Iland and landing to see their wiues we also landed with them where I did see vpon a Hill like a Peninsul neere this chiefe Village two Marble images erected to Thesius and Ariadne Here I obserued that when any stranger or Inhabitant lands the beggers flock to the dores of the houses or Innes where they eate and hauing formerly obserued in the Greeke Church at Venice that when they gaue their Almes to beggers they not onely suffered them to touch their garments with their lousie rags but also tooke them familiarly by the hands I knew not whether I should attribute this fashion to their charitable affection in time of their bondage or to their seldom feasting and the multitude of beggars In the euening we loosed from Naxos and sailing ouer a channell no lesse dangerous then the former for the multitude of Ilands vpon the three and twentie of December we passed close by the shoare of the Iland Zio called Chios of old It is inhabited by Greekes as the other Ilands are and is famous for the pleasantnesse and fertiltie of the situation and soyle It yeeldeth great store of Mastick and the country people keepe flocks of raine Partridges as of Hens other where They brag that Homer lyes buried vpon the Mountaine Helias and this Iland hath Saint George for their protecting Saint and beares his Crosse in their Flags as England doth Here we might distinctly see the shoare of Asia in that part where of old the seuen Churches stood not farre distant to which Saint Iohn writes his Reuelation And the Iland Pathmos is not farre distant where Saint Iohn liued in exile Towards the euening we cast anchor neere the Iland Metelene which is seated as Zio in the Egean Sea and is no lesse pleasant and fertile Of old it was called Lesbos then Issa and after Pelasgia and therein were borne Pythagoras the Poet Alceus Antimenides Theophrastus Phanius Arion and Tersandrus and the famous woman Poet Sapho Zio is distant one hundred and forty miles from Naxos and Meteline ninety miles from Zio The foure and twenty of December being Christmas euen after the old stile vsed among the Greekes and in all Turkey early in the morning we weighed anchor and with a faire but gentle wind sayled close by the shoare where the City of Troy stood of old seated in a plaine and vpon pleasant hils neere the Sea and at this day the ruines of Illium the Castle of Priamus are seene vpon a hill and the ruines of the wals in the plaine yet shew the circuit of the City The Poets said truly Hic seges est vbi Troia fuit Corne growes now where Troy once stood Yet the plowed fields haue very many ruines of buildings On the North side of these Troian ruines a necke of Land lies towards the Sea where they say the Greekes encamped and left their fatall Troian Horse Right ouer against this Land lies the Iland Tenedos scarce ten miles distant in the Hauen whereof we cast anchor for an hower vnder a little Castle and this Tenedos is sixty miles distant from Metelene From hence sailing some eighteene miles we passed by two necks of Land one of Greece on the West-side the other of Asia the lesse now called Natolia on the East-side and after twelue miles saile we entered the streight of Hellespont now called the two Castles the description whereof I will defer till my returne this way The Greek Marriners haue a custome here to demand a gift of all Merchants passengers in their ship for ioy of their happy voyage and they say which I beleeue not that if any refuse they tie a rope to his feete and draw him vp to the top of the maste till he yeeld to this custome but howsoeuer we all obeyed this ridiculous custome not to offend them who had vsed vs well This channell running from the blacke sea called Euxinus into Propontis and so by Constantinople to these said two Castles and from hence into the AEgean sea from the North towards the South is alwaies contrary to those that sayle from the mediteranian sea to Constantinople especially after they enter this streight of the two Castles and neere Constantinople it runnes with such force towards the South as they that saile to the City whereof we had experience with the best winds yet sayle very slowly This violence of the Channell is attributed to great Riuers violently falling into the blacke Sea The foresaid Christmas euen we landed at Gallipolis a Greeke City seated in Thrace hauing the name as it seemes from the French and eight and twenty miles distant from the two Castles On Saturday the fiue and twenty of December being Christmas day after the old stile we set saile but the winds droue vs backe to the Hauen of Gallipolis where being detained some few daies though I staied in the ship for feare of some fraud from the Turkes yet once I went on Land with our Marriners The City lieth in length vpon the shoare of Propontis from the South to the North and it hath without the wals towards the West great number of Wind-mils the buildings are of slint or little vnpolished stones one or two stories high and the roofe is low and tiled not plaine and plastered to walke vpon as they be in Syrea and Cyprus and this roofe is so low as it hath no windowes so as the buildings of these parts are very like those of Italy The Hauen is on the East side and vpon the opposite shoare of Asia towards the East are the ruines not farre distant of Nice a City of Bithinia famous for the holy Councell held there of old Vpon Saterday the first of Ianuary we sailed sixty miles in this straight of Propontis to the Iland Marmora not without feare of Turkish Pirats the Hauen of
according to their manner comming to helpe him the Chaus was glad to let mee alone and they bade me be bold to stand still though I were the second or third person from the Emperour Neere this Church is the stately Sepulcher of Selymus the second and another Sepulcher no lesse stately and newly built for Amurath lately deceased where he lay with those male children round about him who according to the manner were strangled by his Successour after hee was dead Not farre thence is the Market place hauing some one hundred marble pillars about it and adorned with a Pyramis or pinacle erected vpon foure Globes and with a pleasant Fountaine of water together with other ornaments left as it seemes by Christian Emperours R The wonderfull Mosche and Sepulcher of Solyman numbred among the miracles of the World S Two houses for the same vse as the Exchange of London where the Merchants meete namely for the selling of fine wares but no way to be compared to the same for the building They are called the great and the lesse Bezestan and vse to bee opened onely certaine daies of the weeke and for some sixe howers at which times small and more pretious wares are there to be sold as Iewels Semiters or Swords set with Iewels but commonly counterfet pieces of Veluet Satten and Damaske and the like And the Market place is not farre distant where Captiues of both sexes are weekely sold and the buyers if they will may take them into a house and there see them naked and handle them as wee handle beasts to know their fatnesse and strength T Here is a Fort that is fortified with seuen Towers called by the Turkes Iadicule and by Christians the seuen Towers where a garrison of Souldiers is kept because the Emperors treasure is there laied vp and cheefe Prisoners vse to be kept there The treasure is vulgarly said to bee laied vp there but the great Turke seldome goes thither and since it is true that where the treasure is there is the mind I thinke it probable which I haue heard of experienced men that most of the treasure lies in the Seraglio where the great Turke holds his Courr V Here be the ruines of a Pallace vpon the very wals of the City called the Pallace of Constantine wherein I did see an Elephant called Philo by the Turkes and another beast newly brought out of Affricke the Mother of Monsters which beast is altogether vnknowne in our parts and is called Surnapa by the people of Asia Astanapa by others and Giraffa by the Italians the picture whereof I remember to haue seene in the Mappes of Mercator and because the beast is very rare I will describe his forme as well as I can His haire is red coloured with many blacke and white spots I could scarce reach with the points of my fingers to the hinder part of his backe which grew higher and higher towards his foreshoulder and his necke was thinne and some three els long so as hee easily turned his head in a moment to any part or corner of the roome wherein he stood putting it ouer the beames thereof being built like a Barne and high for the Turkish building not vnlike the building of Italy both which I haue formerly described by reason whereof he many times put his nose in my necke when I thought my selfe furthest distant from him which familiarity of his I liked not and howsoeuer the Keepers assured me he would not hurt me yet I auoided these his familiar kisses as much as I could His body was slender not greater but much higher then the body of a stagge or Hart and his head and face was like to that of a stagge but the head was lesse and the face more beautifull He had two hornes but short and scarce halfe a foote long and in the forehead he had two bunches of flesh his eares and feete like an Oxe and his legges like a stagge The Ianizare my guide did in my names and for me giue twenty Aspers to the Keeper of this Beast W X Here be two Castles or Forts diuided by the Hollespont one seated in 〈◊〉 the other in Asia whereof I made mention in my sayling to Constantinople and of which I shall speake more largely at my going from this City Constantinople built sixe hundred sixty three yeeres before Christ was borne by 〈◊〉 a Lacedemonian was first called Bizantiam till Constantine the Great in the yeere of the Lord 315 did rebuild it after it had beene destroied by the Emperour 〈◊〉 and called it by his name The Turkes vnder Mahimet the second first tooke this City in the yeere 1453 from the Christians with destruction of great multitudes of them and at this day it is called of the great circuit Stimbals by the Graecians and Stambalda by the Turkes It is seated in Thrace also called Romania and is built in forme of a Triangle whereof two sides towards the North and East lie vpon two seas and the third side towards the West lies vpon the continent of Greece For many causes this City is famous and in two respects may be iustly preferred to any other in the World knowne to vs namely for the pleasantnesse of the situation and the largenesse and safety of the Hauen The forme thereof formerly set downe doth in part shew the pleasantnes of the situation but the fruitfulnesse of the fields the sweetnes and beauty of the flowers and the variety and goodnesse of the fruits cannot sufficiently be praised The fishes in the winter season flying from the cold of the Euxine or black Sea falldowne in great numbers into the Sea Propontis passing close by the wals of the City and againe in Summer time not induring the heat of the Mediterianean sea returne backe in like numbers the same way This City hath a thousand pleasant creekes of the Sea within sight To conclude the Countrey is no lesse pleasant then the Inhabitants are wicked The Hauen will receiue an huge number of shippes and vpon both the bankes of the City and Gallata shippes of 300 〈◊〉 or greater once vnloaded may so lie with their cables fastened on the Land as they 〈◊〉 from the shippes to Land without 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and for the excellency of the Port the City itselfe is called the Port by the Turkes and Ouid cals it the Port of two Seas for the two channels of Propontis and the Euxine Sea Of old the City had eleuen gates called Aurea Pargea Romana Carthasez Regia Caligaria Kilma Harmagona Phara Theodosia and Spilica At this day the slender wall of bricke towards the Sea hath thirteene gates not worth the naming The wall towards the Land is of bricke and is said to haue beene much ruined in the yeere 1509 by an Earth-quake yet still on that side are three wals which are broad enough for a cart to passe of which the outmost towards land is little higher then the foundation of the second nor that much higher
and the State of Venice would assist the Raguzeant against them and no way indure that the Turkish Ottoman should make himselfe Lord of that Hauen Vpon the three and twenty of Aprill towards euening we sayled by the little Iland Augusta being yet of a good large circuit and populous and subiect to the Raguzeans but the Coast is dangerous for ships arriuall by reason of the Rockes called the Augustines and by the little Iland Corsolavi Some Ilands in this Sea are subiect to the Raguzeans and some neere to the Northerne continent haue the Great Turke for their Lord but the rest are subiect to the Venetians and are very many in number but little and good part of them little or not at all inhabited The Italians our consorts told vs of an Iland not farre distant called Pelaguza and lying neere the continent of Italy vpon the Coast whereof the famous Turkish Pyrate of Algier a Hauen in Africa was lately wont to houer and lie hidden and made rich booties of the Venetian and Italian Merchants Vpon Sunday the foure and twenty of Aprill we had in sight and little distant the little Ilands Catza and Lissa and in the afternoone on our left hand towards Italy the Iland Pomo and in the euening towards Dalmatia two Ilands and vpon the continent the City Zaga being some two hundred miles distant from Venice And the night following we sailed ouer an arme of the Sea some thirty miles broade lying betweene Dalmatia and Istria called Il Cornaro which we passed without any appearance of danger though otherwise it be generally reputed so dangerous as the Venetians offended with any Marriner vse this imprecation Maledetto sia il Cornaro che t' ha lasciato passare that is Cursed be the Cornaro for letting thee passe Vpon Monday the fiue and twenty of Aprill as we sailed by the Coast of Istria one of the Marriners aged and as we thought honest and of some authority among the rest priuately admonished me that I should safely locke vp our goods in our chests left the inferior Marriners should steale our shirts or any other thing they found negligently left which they vsed to doe especially at the end of any voyage Vpon Tuesday the sixe and twenty of April we cast anchor beyond Pola in the continent of Istria a City now ruined and vpon the seuen and twenty day we entred the Hauen of Rouinge in Istria subiect to the Venetians where the ships vse to take a Pilot for their owne safety or els are tied so to doe by some old priuiledge of that City Here the Prouisors for health gaue vs liberty of free conuersation as they had formerly done at Zante seeing no man in our ship to be sicke or sickely And I did not a little wonder when I obserued each second or third person of this City to halt and be lame of one foot which made me remember the Citizens of Islebe in Germany and in the Prouince of Saxony where almost all the men haue wry neckes whereof I knew the cause namely because they vsed daily to dig in mines with their neckes leaning on one side but of this common lamenes of the Inhabitants in Rouinge I could not learne any probable cause except it were the foule disease of lust raigning in those parts which I rather thought likely because the lamenesse was common to weomen as men Now the sayling in our great ship was like to be more trouble some dangerous and slow whereupon fiue of vs ioyning together did vpon the thirtieth of Aprill after the old stile hier a boate of sixe Oares for seuen Venetian Duckets to Venice where we arriued the next day towards euening and staied in our boat vpon the wharfe of the Market place of Saint Marke till the Prouisors of health sitting in their Office neere that place came vnto vs and after some conference vnderstanding that we and our ship were free of all infection or sicknesse gaue vs free liberty of conuersation Wee staied three dayes at Venice to refresh our selues and paied each man three lyres for each meale in a Dutch Inne Then hauing receiued money of a Merchant I went to the Village Mestre and there bought of Dutchmen newly arriued in Italy two horses for my selfe and my man the one for thirtie the other for twentie ducates These horses I sold at Stode in Germany after my iourney ended at or about the same rate He that hath the Dutch tongue and either knowes the waies of Germany himselfe or hath consorts skilfull therein being to trauell from Stode or those parts into Italy shall finde more profit in buying a horse in those parts of Germany for so hee shall saue great summes vsually paid for coches and at the iournies end or rather by the way towards the ende of his iourney may in Italy sell his horses with good profit In the Village Mestre each of vs paid each meale fiftie soldi that is two lires and a halfe From hence we took the right way to Augsburg in Germany to Nurnberg Brunswick and to Stode an old Citie lying on the Northern Sea of Germany The particulars of which iourney I here omit hauing in my iourney to Ierusalem passed the very same way from Stode to Venice So as it shall suffice to adde some few things in generall Within the confines of Italy each man of vs paid for each meale fortie and sometimes fiftie Venetian soldi and for hay and stable for his horse commonly at noone foure soldi at night twelue soldi and for ten measures of oates giuen each day to each horse fiftie soldi After we entred Germany each man paid each meale commonly twentie creitzers at Inspruch twentie foure and somtimes twentie six creitzers for hay six creitzers a day or there-abouts and for ten measures of oates seruing one horse for a day wee paid fiftie creitzers In the middle Prouinces of Germany each of vs paid for each meale commonly sixteene creitzers that is foure batzen and in the parts vpon the Northerne sea some foure Lubeck shillings And from the Citie Armstat seated betweene Augsburg and Nurnberg to the said Northern sea side we had a new measure of oates called Hembd one of which measures was sold for some tenne Lubeck shillings and serued three horses for our baite at noone and another was almost sufficient for them at night From Stode seated vpon the German Sea we passed in a boat to the outmost Hauen where wee went abroad an English ship vpon the fourth of Iuly after the old stile being Tuesday The sixt of Iuly early in the morning we set sayle and the eight of Iuly we came vpon the most wished land of England and cast anchor neere Orford a Castle in Suffolke Vpon Saturday the ninth of Iuly after the old stile we landed at Grauesend and without delay with the night-tide passed in a boat to London where we ariued on Sunday at foure of the clock in the morning the tenth of
the English and Saint Dauids Ilands right ouer against the seate of the Bishop of Saint Dauy. Next is the 10 Iland called Enhly by the Welsh Britans and Berdsey as the I le of Birds by the English wherein they report that twenty thousand Saints lie buried Next lies 11 Mona that is the shadowed or dusky Iland which after many yeeres being conquered by the English was by them called Anglesey as the Iland of the English It is a most noble Iland the old seate of the Druides Priests so called of old and so fruitfull as it is vulgarly called the Mother of Wales the cheefe Towne whereof is Beaumarish Neere that lies 12 Prestholme that is the Priests Iland whereof the Inhabitants and Neighbours make incredible reports for the multitude of Sea Fowle there breeding Next followes 13 Mona or Monoeda as the farther Mona which we call the I le of Man the Inhabitants whereof are like the Irish in language and manners but haue something of the Norway men It yeeldes abundantly Flaxe and Hempe hath pleasant Pastures and Groues and is fruitfull of Barly Wheate and especially of Oates the people feeding on Oaten bread in all parts are multitudes of Cattle but it wants wood and for fier vseth a kind of Turffe Russia which of the Castle we call Castle-Towne is the cheefe Towne and hath a Garrison of Souldiers but Duglas is the most frequented and best inhabited Towne because it hath an excellent Hauen easie to be entered In the Westerne part Bala-curi is the seate of the Bishop vnder the primacy of the Archbishop of Yorke and there is the Fort called the Pyle wherein a garrison of Souldiers is kept Vpon the Southerne Promontory lies a little Iland called the Calfe of Man which aboundeth with Sea Birds called Puffins and a kind of Duckes engendered of rotten wood which the English call Barnacles In generall the Inhabitants haue their proper Tongue and Lawes and had their proper Coyne They abhorre from stealing and from begging and are wonderfully religious generally and most readily conforming themselues at this day to the Church of England and the people in the Northerne part speake like Scots and in the Southerne part like Irish. Edwin King of Northumberland subdued the Northerne people and subiected them to the Crowne of England yet with many changes of Fortune this Iland long had their owne Kings euen since the Normans conquered England and since the time that Iohn King of England passing into Ireland by the way subdued this Iland about the yeere 1210 till the Kingdome came to the Scots in the yeere 1266. After that time Mary the daughter of Reginald the last laid claime to the Iland before the King of England as supreme Lord of Scotland and when sheecould not preuaile William Montague her Kinseman tooke the Iland of Man by force which his Heire sold for a great summe of money in the yeere 1393 to William Scroope who being beheaded for Treason the Iland fell by right to Henry the fourth King of England who assigned the same to Henry Pearcy Earle of Northumberland with prouiso that he and his Heires at the coronation of the Kings of England should carry the Sword vulgarly called Lancaster Sword before the King but the same Persey being also killed in ciuill warre the King gaue that Iland to Stanlye from whom discend the Earles of Darby who kept the same till Ferdinand Earle of Darby dying without heire male and the Earledome falling to his Brother but this Iland to his Daughters as Heires generall Queene Elizabeth thinking it vnfit that Women should bee set ouer her Souldiers there in garrison gaue the keeping thereof to Sir Thomas Gerrard But King Iames the foureteenth of August in the fifth yeere of his Raigne granted by Letters Pattents this Iland with all things thereunto appertaining to Henry Earle of Northampton and Robert Earle of Saltsbury their Heires and Assignes for euer they vpon doing homage for the same presenting his Maiesty with two Falcons and his Heires and Successours at their Coronation in like sort with two Falcons And howsoeuer no vse or intent of this grant be mentioned in these Letters Pattents yet no doubt the grant was made to the vse of those vpon whose humble petition to his Maiesty the Letters Pattents were granted as therein is expressely declared namely of William Lord Stanly Earle of Darby heire male to Iohn Lord Stanly and of Elizabeth Countesse of Huntington Anne wife to the Lord Chandois and Francis wife to Sir Iohn Egerton Knight being the Heires generall of the said Iohn Lord Stanly The famous Riuer Thames fals into the German Ocean ouer against Zeland and before it fals into the same makes the 14 Iland Canuey vpon the Coast of Essex so low as it is often ouerflowed all but some higher hils to which the sheepe retire being some foure thousand in number the flesh whereof is of delicate taste and they are milked by young men Neere that is the 15 Iland Sheppey so called of the sheepe wherein is Quinborrough a most faire Castle kept by a Constable Without the mouth of Thames lie the shelfes or sands dangerous to Sea men which of the greatest are all called Goodwin sands where they say an Iland the patrimony of the same Earle Goodwinn was deuoured by the Sea in the yeere 1097. In the Britan Sea lies the 16 I le of Wight hauing in the Sea most plentifull fishing and the Land being so fruitfull as they export Corne besides that in all parts it hath plenty of Conies Hares Partridges and Feasanes and hath also two Parkes of Fallow Deare Also the sheepe feeding there vpon the pleasant hils yeeld wool in goodnesse next to the Fleeces of Lemster and Cotswold Flockes It hath sixe and thirty Townes and Castles and the Ecclesiasticall Iurisdiction thereof belongs to the Bishop of Wintchester Towards the West lie other Ilands pretented to be French but subiect to England namely 17 Gerzey whither condemned men were of old banished 18 Garnsey neither so great nor so fruitful but hauing a more commodious Hauen vpon which lies the Towne of Saint Peter both Ilands burne a weede of the Sea or Sea coales brought out of England and both speake the French Language I omit the seuen Iles called Siadae and others adioyning and will onely adde that the Ilands lie neere Cornewall which the Greekes called Hesperides the English call Silly and the Netherlanders call Sorlings being in number some 145 more or lesse whereof some yeeld Wheate all abound with Conies Cranes Swannes Hirnshawes and other Sea Birdes The greatest of them is called Saint Mary and hath a Castle wherein Souldiers lie in Garrison committed in our time to the keeping of Sir Francis Godolphin and after to his sonne Sir William Godolphin being of a noble Family in Cornewall Also many of the said Ilands haue vaines of Tynne and from hence was Leade first carried into Greece and the Roman Emperours banished condemned men hither to
water out of England they could neuer make their beere so much esteemed as the English which indeed is much bettered by the carriage ouer sea to these parts Hence I went to Sluse so called of the damme to let waters in and out and came thither in two houres paying for my waggon thirteene stiuers which I hired alone for if I had light vpon company we should haue paied no more betweene vs. Hence I passed the Riuer Mase where it falleth into the sea and came to Brill my selfe and two others paying twelue stiuers for our passage but the barke being presently to returne and therefore not entring the Port set vs on land neere the Towne whether we walked on foot Brill is a fortified Towne laid in pledge to Queene Elizabeth for money she lent the States and it was then kept by foure English Companies paid by the Queene vnder the gouernment of the Lord Burrowes The Towne is seated in an Iland which was said to bee absolute of it selfe neither belonging to Zealand nor Holland On the North side the Riuer Mase runneth by On the East side are corne fieldes and the Riuer somewhat more distant On the South side are corne fields On the West side are corne fields and the maine Sea little distant Here I paied for my supper and dinner twenty stiuers and for a pot of wine eighteene stiuers From hence I returned by water to Roterodam in Holland and paied for my passage three stiuers In the mouth of the Riuer of Roterodam lies the City Arseldipig and another called Delphs-Ile being the Hauen of Delph which was then a pleasant Village but growing to a City and hauing beene lately burnt by fire was fairely rebuilded Roterodam lies in length from the East to the West The Hauen is on the South side being then full of great ships vpon which side it lay open without walles hauing many faire houses and a sweet walke vpon the banke of the water Neither is it fortified on the sides towards the land nor seemed to mee able to beare a siege hauing low walles on the North and East sides yet compassed with broad ditches The street Hoch-street is faire and large extending it selfe all the length of the Citie and lying so as from the gate at the one end you may see the gate at the other end and in this street is the Senate house In the market place toward the West is the statua of Erasmus being made of wood for the Spaniards brake downe that which was made of stone and the inscription thereof witnesseth that hee was borne at Roterodame the twenty eight of October in the yeere 1467 and died at Bazel the twelfth of Iuly in the yeere 1531. In New-Kirk-street there is the house in vvhich Erasmus was borne vvherein a Taylor dwelled at this time and vpon the vvall thereof these Verses are written AEdibus his natus mundum decorauit Erasmus Artibus ingenuis Religione side The world Erasmus in this poore house borne With Arts Religion Faith did much adorne The same Verses also vvere vvritten in the Flemmish tongue and vpon the vvall vvas the picture of Erasmus Vpon the same West side is the house for exercise of shooting in the Peece and Crosse-bow The vvaters of Roterodam and Delph being neere the sea are more vvholesome then the standing waters within land Heere I lodged at an English-mans house and paied for my supper tenne stiuers for my breakfast two stiuers and for beere betweene meales fiue stiuers by which expence compared vvith that of the Flemmish Innes it is apparant that strangers in their reckonings pay for the intemperate drinking of their Dutch companions From hence I went by sea three miles to Dort in two houres space to which City we might haue gone great part of the way by vvaggon as farre as Helmund but then we must needs haue crossed an Inland sea for the City is seated in an Iland hauing beene of old diuided from the continent of Holland in a great floud The forme of the City resembles a Galley the length whereof lies from the East to the West Wee landed vpon the North side lying vpon the sea where there be two gates but of no strength On the East side is the New gate Reydike and beyond a narrow water lye fenny grounds On the South side the ditch is more narrow yet the sea ebbs and flowes into it and vpon old walles of stone is a conuenient walking place On this side is the gate Spey-port and beyond the ditch lye fenny grounds On the West side is the gate Feld-port and a like walke vpon walles of stone and there is a greater ebbing and flowing of the sea There is a great Church built of bricke and couered with slate being stately built vvith Arched cloysters and there of old the Counts of Holland were consecrated From this part the two fairest streets Reydike-strat and Wein-strat lie windingly towards the North. Turning a little out of the faire street Reydike-strat towards the South lies the house for exercise of shooting in the Peece Crosse-bow and there by is a very pleasant groue vpon the trees vvhereof certaine birds frequent which we call Hearnes vulgarly called Adhearne or Regle and their feathers being of great price there is a great penalty set on them that shall hurt or annoy those birds There is a house vvhich retaines the name of the Emperor Charles the fift and another house for coyning of money for the Counts of Holland vvere vvont to coyne money at Dort as the Counts of Zealand did at Midleburg Betweene the faire streets Reydike-strat and Wein-strat is the Hauen for ships to be passed ouer by bridges and there is a market place and the Senate house vvhich hath a prospect into both these streets The houses are higher built then other where in Holland and seeme to be of greater Antiquity This Citie by priuiledge is the staple of Rhenish vvines vvhich are from hence carried to other Cities so as no imposition being here paied for the same the pot of Rhenish wine is sold for twelue stiuers for which in other places they pay eighteene or twenty stiuers For three meales I paied heere thirty stiuers From hence I vvent by water to the States Campe besieging Getrudenberg and came thither in two houres space but the vvindes being very tempestuous wee saw a boat drowned before vs out of which one man onely escaped by swimming who seemed to me most wretched in that hee ouer-liued his wife and all his children then drowned The besieged City lies in the Prouince of Brabant and the County of Buren being the inheritance of the Prince of Orange by right of his wife and in this Month of Iune it was yeelded to Count Maurice the Spanish Army lying neere but not being able to succour it The Sea lying vpon this part of Brabant was of old firme land ioined to the continent till many villages by diuers floods and seuenteene
Parishes at once by a famous flood were within lesse then 200. yeeres agoe swallowed vp of the Sea and for witnes of this calamity diuers Towers farre distant the one from the other appeare in this Sea and according to the ebbing and flowing more or lesse seene doe alwaies by their sad spectacle put the passengers in mind of that wofull euent And the Hollanders say that these flouds caused the Rheine to change his bed as hereafter I shall shew in the due place From Count Maurice his Campe at Getrudenberg I failed in six houres space to the Iland Plate and at midnight putting forth againe failed in ten houres space to the Iland Tarlot and from thence in three houres space to the City Bergenapzome where we landed By the way we saw one of the aforesaid Towers high aboue the water being a steeple of some parish Church swallowed vp in the said deluge of which there be many like sad remembrances in this Inland sea The channell leading to the City is called Forcemer and hath vpon the banke many strong sorts and in this channell lay a man of warre to defend passengers from the bordering enemy This City is strongly fortified and is sented in Brabant and had many castles of the enemy lying neerert and it was gouerned by a garison of English not in the Queenes but in the States pay as Ostend at that time was whereas Virshing and Brill pledged to the Queen for money wore kept by English Garisons in the Queenes pay and Sir Thomas Morgan was at this time Gouernour of this City At out entrance euery man gaue his nameto the Guard Without the City on the West side many akers of land were drowned when the Prince of Orange as I said let in the waters to driue the Spaniards out of those parts which from that day to this could neuer be dried and gained againe On this side I entered the City where be many poore houses built in forme of a Lutes necke which being added to the City almost of a round forme make the whole City much like vnto a Lute On this side were three strong rauelings and vppon the necke of the said Lute is the Hauen in the channell Forcemer which going no further into the land endeth in a mill made of purpose to keepe the ebbing water so as the ditches may alwaies be full On the North side is the prison not vnpleasant for situation and the English House and the House of the Gouernour which of old belonged to the Count of Brabant Betweene the Gates wouldport and Stephenbergport which are both strongly fortified the Riuer Zome fals into the Towne whereof it hath the name yet the channell being stopped it seemes here a standing water rather then a Riuer Towards the East the City is very strongly fortified and there is the Gate Boskport so called as I thinke of the word Bosco which in the Italian tongue signifies a wood for on this side without the gates were many woods and orchards till they were destroied in the warre On this side is another Raueling of great length and beyond the fortifications lie faire pastures but somewhat couered with waters And from hence wee might see Woudcastle scarce three English miles distant which was then possessed by the Spaniards On the South side is a new fort beyond a strong bulwarke and a very strong counterscarp compassing the City And from hence was of old a most pleasant walke vnder the shade of trees to the old castle some mile distant On this side in a pleasant groue were many such birds as I said to be at Dort vulgarly called Adherne much esteemed for the fethers they beare in their fore head and there is a penalty set on those that hurt or driue them away On this side also is the English Church and vpon this and the East sides the Prince of Parma in camped when hee besieged this City There is in the middest of the City a triangular market place and from the sharpe end thereof towards the West siue rauelings run beyond the wals The houses are built of bricke and seeme to be built of old The Church hath a very high steeple whence the watchmen shew the comming and number of horse-men by hanging out white flagges and of foot by redde All the Villages hereabouts though liuing vnder the Spaniard yet pay contribution to this Garrison lest the souldiers should vpon aduantage breake out and spoile them The Citizens liue of mannall arts and the expences of the Garison From hence I sayled to Midleburge and at one ebbe of the Sea passed in seuen houres space to Der-goese and at another ebbe in foure houres space to Armaren a City of the Iland Walkern belonging to Zealand and I paid for my passage six stiuers From hence in halfe an houre I walked on foot to Midleburge the houses whereof are stately built and very high especially the new City and are all of bricke as be the Cities of Holland and as be the houses of Vlishing but some of these are stately built of free stone yet the streetes are somewhat narrow Here I paid for my supper fiue stiuers in the English House where the Host is onely bound to prouide for the Merchants and such gucsts as they inuite yet many times he admits English Gentlemen both to lodge and eat there The House lies in the street Longdels and howsoeuer the Merchants cat there yet they hier their lodgings scatteringly in the City and refused an Abbey which the Senators offered them to lodge therein perhaps out of feare lest in any ciuill tumult they might more easily be wronged if they should all lie together This City is the Staple of all Merchandise excepting Rhenish wine for which by old priuiledge Dorte is the Staple Therefore French and Spanish Wines are here sold much more cheape then other where because they are free of impost in this place and haue great impositions laid on them being carried out to other Cities The forme of the City is round saue that on the East side the buildings of the new City being vnperfected made it to haue the forme of a halfe Moone though the plot thereof were round Comming from Armuren I entered on this East side by a very faire gate called the New Gate where the water falling into the Towne passeth to the Burse where the Merchants meet There is a publike House for shooting the wall on this side as round about the City is of stone and is rather adorned then fortified with some Towers And this wall is double vpon the Inner whereof compassed with deepe ditches many Houses are built On the West side without the gates almost halfe way to Vlishing is Rammakins Castle kept by English Souldiers sent from Vlishing to that purpose being a place of great importance because the channell going to Midleburge runnes within the command of their Artillery On this South side is the Hauen and without the wals very faire pastures
another Coach comming from Lubecke for Coaches passe daily betweene those Cities After dinner we passed foure miles in foure houres space through hils more thicke with woods but in many places bearing good corne and came to Lubecke For my place in the Coach this day I paid twenty lubecke shillings and this night for my supper and bed I paid sixe lubecke shillings Here I bought the foureteenth Booke of Amadis de Gaule in the Dutch tongue to practise the same for these Bookes are most eloquently translated into the Dutch and fit to teach familiar language and for this Booke I paid eighteene lubecke shillings and for the binding foure and for a Map of Europe to guide me in my iourney I paid foureteene lubecke shillings Also I paid for a measure of Rhenish wine fiue lubecke shillings and as much for a measure of Spanish wine From Lubcke I passed two miles in three houres space through fruitfull hils of corne and some woods of oake to the village Tremuren and paid for my coach the fourth part of a Doller which notwithstanding vseth to be hired for fiue lubecke shillings and for my supper I paid foure lubecke shillings I formerly shewed that this village is the Hauen where the great ships vse to be vnladed and from thence to be carried vpto lie at Lubecke in the winter Here I tooke ship to sayle into Denmarke vpon the Balticke Sea so called because it is compassed by the Land as it were with a girdle This sea doth not at all ebbe and flow or very little after it hath passed in by the streight of Denmarke being more then twenty foure miles long so as vpon the shoares of Prussen Muscaw and Suetia this sea seemes little to be moued and many times is frozen with ice from the shore farre into the sea and the waues thereof once stirred with the winds are very high neither is the water of this sea any thing so salt as otherwhere so as the ships sayling therein doe sinke deeper at least three spans then in the German Ocean as manifestly appeares by the white sides of the ships aboue water when they come out of this sea and enter the said Ocean And this will not seeme strange to any who haue seene an egge put into salt pits and how it swimmes being borne vp with the salt water The Master of the Lubecke ship in which I passed to Denmarke gaue me beere for foure lubeck shillings for which the Dutchmen and Danes drinking more largely paid but one lubecke shilling more and euery man had prouided victuals for himselfe I paid for my passage twenty foure lubecke shillings and gaue foure to the marriners From Lubecke they reckon twenty foure miles to Falsterboaden and from thence seuen miles to Coppenhagen so called as the Hauen of Merchants We left vpon our lefthand towards the South a little Iland called Munde and as I remember the third day of August landed at Drakesholme being one mile from Coppenhagen whether I passed in a Waggon through some pastures and barren corne fields and neere the City I passed ouer the Hauen from one Iland to another I paid for my Waggon three lubecke shillings At our entrance of the City on the East-side is the Kings Castle where the Court lies especially in winter time On this side the City lies vpon the sea and there is the said Hauen as likewise on the North-side the sea is little distant from the City When I entered the gates the guard of souldiers examined me strictly and the common people as if they had neuer seene a stranger before shouted at mee after a barbarous fashion among which people were many marriners which are commonly more rude in such occasions and in all conuersation The City is of a round forme in which or in the Kings Castle I obserued no beauty or magnificence The Castle is built of free-stone in a quadrangle The City is built of timber and clay and it hath a faire market place and is reasonably well fortified Here I paid for three meales and breakefast eight lubecke shillings and as much for beere The King at this time lay at Roschild purposing shortly to goe into the Dukedome of Holst where he had appointed a meeting of the gentlemen at Flansburge to receiue their homage there which vppon old piuiledges they had refused to doe vnto him in Denmarke Therefore I went foure miles in foure houres space through a wild hilly Country to Roschild so called of the Kings Fountaine and my selfe and one companion paid twenty lubecke shillings for our Waggon and though it were the moneth of August yet the wind blowing strong from the North and from the Sea I was very cold as if it had beene then winter Roschild hath a Bishop and though it be not walled hath the title of a City but well deserues to be numbred among faire and pleasant Villages Here they shew a whet stone which Albrecht King of Suetia sent to Margaret Queene of Denmarke despising her as a woman and in scoffe bidding her to whet her swords therewith but this Queene tooke the said King prisoner in that warre and so held him till death Here I paid seuen Danish shillings for my supper In the chancell of the Church is a monument of blacke and white stone for this Queene Margaret and her daughter and the Danes so reuerence this Queene as they haue here to shew the apparell she vsed to weare In this Church are the sepulchers of the Kings whereof one erected by Frederick for Christianus his father is of blacke Marble and Alablaster curiously carued hauing his statua kneeling before a Crucifix and hung round about with sixteene blacke flags and one red Hauing seene the King and the Courtiers my selfe and my companion next day returned to Coppenhagen each of vs paying for the waggon tenne Lubeck shillings and here I paid for my supper six Lubeck shillings and three for beere From hence I passed by sea foure miles in fiue houres space to Elsinure and paied for my passage eight Lubeck shillings and for my supper eight Danish shillings And because I was to returne hither to take ship for Dantzke I passed the next morning three miles in foure houres space through Hils of corne but somewhat barren and woods of Beech to Fredericksburg and hauing but one companion with mee wee paied for our waggon thither and so to Coppenhagen each of vs twenty two Lubeck shillings Here the King hath a Pallace and a little Parke walled in where among other forraine beasts were kept some fallow Deare transported hither out of England the twenty foure yeere of Queene Elizabeths raigne I paied for my dinner foure Danish shillings and as much for beere In the afternoone we passed fiue miles in six houres through barren fields of corne and groues of Beech and hasel-nuts to Cappenhagen and by the way we saw a Crosse set vp in memory of a waggoner who hauing drunke too much droue his
cloth as would couer the same with a Rose-noble at the corner of each cloth Others tell a fable of like credit that it was once sold to a Merchant whom they scoffed when he came to take possession bidding him take away the earth he had bought The great reuenew exacted in this straight hath giuen occasion to these and the like fables And in truth if either the King of Suetia or the free City of Lubeck had the possession of this Iland and were fortified therein they might easily command this passage and extort what they list from the Merchants passing that way and perhaps conquer the parts adioyning but the possession thereof were altogether vnprofitable for any Prince whose Territories lie out of the Sound the entrance whereof is forbid by the two foresaid strong Castles But lest I should bee as foolish as they I returne to my purpose And first giue me leaue to mention that there lies a City not farre distant in the Kingdome of Norway which is called London as the chiefe City in England is called Vpon Sunday the twenty six of August in the yeere 1593 I tooke an English ship heere to saile into Prussen hauing first bought for my victuals halfe a lambe for twelue Danish shillings thirty egges for six shillings and some few pots of Spanish wine for forty two Danish shillings with some other small prouisions From Elsinure to Dantzk they reckon eighty English miles Assoone as wee were come out of the harbour wee saw two ships sayling two contrary wayes and yet hauing both a forewind which sometimes happens vpon the shoare as marriners know For of these two contrary winds the one is airy which holds when you are gone into the maine the other is from the earth and in short time faileth at the very shore which euent we presently saw with our eyes one of the ships going fairely on his course the other casting anchor The English ship in which I went was called the Antilope being of one hundred fifty tuns or thereabouts and one Master Bodley was the Master thereof who shewed me manifest signes where his ship in two places had beene struck with lightning the first whereof passed into the pumpe and rent it but comming to the water was by the nature thereof carried vpward and comming out at the top of the pumpe made two little holes then passing to the great Mast rent it and made a great crany therein from the hatches to the top The second struck the top of the said maine Mast and againe rent it in such wise as it would scarcely beare saile till wee might come to Dantzk where the best Mastes are sold at a good rate The first day we sayled in the Baltick sea some fiue miles with a scant winde and cast anchor neere Copenhagen With a faire winde and good gaile Marriners vsually sayle some three Dutch leagues in an houre On Monday early wee sayled along the shore three miles to Falsterboden On Tuesday early wee sayled eighteene miles to the Iland Brentholm and vpon our left hands saw the land in two places and there sounding with our plummet sand of Amber stuck thereunto The same day by noone wee sayled the length of that Iland and vpon Wednesday by three of the clocke in the morning hauing sayled thirty miles we passed by Rose-head being a Promentory 〈◊〉 Dantzk On Thurs-day by eight of the clocke in the morning hauing sayled eighteene miles we came to a Land called Rettell and entered the Port of Meluin where the water was scarce two fadome deepe our ship drawing one fadome and a halfe the entry was narrow and there were many booyes floting vpon shoales sands and the weather being calme we were drawne in by a boate with Oares In like cases ships vse to draw themselues in by the casting and weighing of Anchors with great labour and flow riddance of way From Kettell we passed ten miles and came to the Port of Meluin Iu the aforesaid entry of the Riuer on the right hand towards the West we saw Dantzke seated not farre from the sea shore where it hath a hauen but not so safe as this and towards the North-east in the same place a channell runneth vp to Konigsberg the Court of the Duke of Prussen The Port of Meluin is searce ten foot deepe but our ship passed through the mud like a plow vpon land This port is a little distant from the City on the North-side where we entered by a faire large street called Martgasse lying thence towards the South Prussen of old was subiect to the order of the Teutonicke Knights but by agreement made betweene the King of Poland and the Margraue or Marques of Brandeburg Master of the said order part of the prouince was giuen to the said Marques and his heires with title of Duke vnder homage to the King of Poland with condition that for want of heire male it should returne to the Kingdome of Poland and the other part was then vnited to the said Kingdome but Dantzke and Meluin remained free Cities acknowledging the King of Poland for their Protector for which cause they giue him many customes and permit his Officer to abide in the City ard receiue the same Meluin is a little and faire City lately compassed with new wals and at this time grew rich by the English Merchants hauing their staple in the same They giue good fare for foure grosh a meale and he that paies for two meales in the day may besides haue meat or drinke betweene meales at pleasure without paying any thing The same euening we landed at Meluin our Marriners staying in the ship entertained other English Marriners comming aboard and according to their custome giuing them a peece when they departed it happened that the peece being of iron brake and therewith cut the Cooke off by the middle and rent all the prow of the ship The English Merchants at Meluin had no Preacher though the Citizens gaue them free exercise of religion so that how so euer they excused in by reason that learned Preachers could hardly be drawne to come so farre for meanes to liue yet I thought them not free of blame in this point because our Merchants further distant in Asia and liuing vnder the Turkes Empire found meanes by their bounty to haue learned Preachers Neither indeed did I euer obserue in any other place Italy excepted that our Merchants wanted Preachers where they held their staples From Meluin I went ten miles in one day to Dantzke and we being onely two conforts paid each of vs a Doller for our Coach In the morning we went sixe miles and by the way passed the Riuer Begot comming out of the riuer Vistula where our Coachman paid three grosh to haue his Coach carried ouer a damme Beyond this riuer we entered the territory of the King of Poland and passing all this way through fruitfull come fields and rich medowes and pastures in a Countrey abounding with
caue curiously carued and one of the sinest old monuments I did euer see Hence we passed to s Baie an ancient Citie and for the sweetenesse preferred to Rome by Horace Nullus in vrbe locus Baijs praelucet am aenit No place of Rome sweete Baie doth excell The situation of this Citie is most sweete but all the houses neere the shoare are drowned except the Baths and the houses vpon the mountaine are all ruined neither doe any dwel here but some few poore and miserable people such as the husbandmen of Italy are commonly yet these ruines shew the pride and magnificence of that old time This Citie is said to haue the name of a friend of Vlisses there buried Here bee the foresaid ruines of Caligula his Bridge which I said doe lie on this side the Creeke Here we did see the stately ruines of two Senators houses where the excellent pictures did yet remaine vpon the highest roofe They shewed vs a tree as they said turned into a stone and the ruines of the Temples of Diana and Venus From hence we walked towards the Mountaine Misenus and neere the dead sea first wee came to t a hill made hollow by the building vnder it which is vulgarly called of the number of the roomes Cento camerelle that is One hundred little chambers Leander saith that it was a Cesterne to keepe fresh-water whereof the Romans had great store in these parts whether they came certaine seasons of the yeere to recreate themselues and all this Territorie on both sides neere this Creeke or Bay of the Sea are so full of ruined Palaces Temples and Sepulchers as a man would say they were not seuerall Villages but one great Citie This said building is large and foure square and sustained by foure rankes of foure square pillars into which wee were let down at a hole in the earth Round about the entrance there were many Celles almost foure square and of an vnequall bignesse parted with enteries winding about and because the building is intricate some thinke it was a Laberinth v The ruines of a stately building are opposite to this into which wee descended by fortie staires it hath no windowes but all the light comes in at crannies and it hath foure rankes of fouresquare pillars to beare vp the arched roofe Euery ranke hath twelue pillars and in all they be fortie eight and each one is twelue foote distant from the other and twelue foote high to which if you ad the high roofe of the building the roome is twenty fiue foot high which I beheld not without being amazed at the magnisicence of the Romans in these buildings This house is little broken downe and the plaister of the wall is so hard as I could not pierce it with my dagger and it is vulgarly called la piscina mirabile It is certaine that the Romans of old bestowed great charge in building places for the keeping of fish and some thinke this was built to that purpose by Antonia the wife of Drusus others say by Hortensius but Leander saith that it was built to keepe fresh water and he with other Writers doth iudge it a stately monumēt of the Pallace of Lucullus built neere Baie which he proueth out of Plutarch who mentions one Pallace of Lucullus in his foresaid village for his Summer dwelling and another here neere Baie for his Winter abode And Tacitus saith that the Emperour Tiberius foreseeing his death and often changing places at last came to this place and here died It were an infinite worke if I should seuerally describe the Pallaces of Marius Caesar and Lucullus I will not omit that our Guides I know not how credibly shewed vs certaine round w fields compassed round with Mountaines and at this time plowed which they said were the Elisian fields We are now come to the x Misene Promontary which hath the name of Misenus friend to Eneas buried here or rather by him sacrificed to the gods at the Lake Auernus as is aforesaid Vpon the top of this Mountaine was a Tower of old called Faro vpon which a light was hung for a sea-marke Vnder the Mountaine especially where it growes narrow and vpon three sides is washed by the Sea there be so many houses vnder the earth as the pillers thereof seeme onely to beare vp the Mountaine and among them there is one called Grotta Traconara of the winding passages therein which by the ruines now remaining seemes to haue been a magnificent worke and this Leander thinkes to haue been built to keepe fresh water Right opposite to this mountaine is the Y Cape of Minerua and neere that lies the Iland K Caprea or Capre easie to be seene by the white and high cliffes and famous by the cruelty and more then goatish lusts of the Emperour Tiberius when he with-drew himselfe out of the sight of the Senate and people of Rome to liue there in solitude This Iland hath no Hauen neither can little boates land there whereupon being safe from Pirates it was held a place of pleasure in the time of Augustus The creeke of the sea comming in betweene these two foresaid Promontories was of old called Sinus Cratera Vpon the side of the mountaine Misene lying towards Cuma is a lake of salt water called the dead sea into which water fals our of the creeke of rozzols and it was of old more large For Suetonius writes that Augustus kept one Nauy in this Lake and another at Rauenna to guard the vpper and lower sea And Tacitus writes that his successour Tiberius kept two Nauies in those places At this day the Lake is parted from the Sea with a banke some fifty paces broad and it is almost round in forme and some two miles broad and Plutarke writes that Lucullus made this Lake to keepe fishes therein From this mountaine Misene we walked vpon the Sea shore fiue very short miles and came to the ruines of the old City Z Cuma built by the Calcedons of the Greek Iland Euboia the oldest City in all Italy and it is said to haue had the name of a good presage from the Captaines of the Nauy or a woman great with child of that name It was seated of old vpon a hill neere the sea shore and yet on the side towards the land the wals are standing but the daughter hath deuoured the mother for the increase of Naples was the decrease of Cuma yet the ruines still remaine and vpon the top of the hill was the Temple of Apollo of which Virgil writes At pius AEneas arces quihus altus Apollo c. But good AEneas high Apollees Towers c. And there is yet an ancient Temple partly ruined A triumphall Arch is yet vnbroken but some say the foresaid Temple was consecrated to Hercules Of old Aristodamus did lead the forces of Cuma and after his victory they made him their Prince and Liuy writes that Tarqutnius the proud being banished came to him and there died Historians write
towards the City and before you enter into the gates lies C the stately Pallace of Andreetta D' Auria or Doria the building whereof the garden the staires to discend to the sea the banquetting house and diuers open galleries are of Kingly magnificence Not farre thence vpon the wall is a D statua erected to Andrea 〈◊〉 Aurta late Admirall to the Spanish Fleete Then you come to the P gate of the City and not far thence within the wals is P ano her gate leading to the inner Hauen where the Gallies lie Not farre thence is the most faire Cathedrall G Church in which is an ancient monument of mettall digged out of the adiovning valley which hath an old inscription shewing the antiquity of the City-Not farre thence is the K Church Saint Matthew wherein the Prinets of the Family of 〈◊〉 haue long had their monuments Neere that lies the L Dukes Pallace not his priuate Pallace but publike which is kept by a guard of Dutchmen who also haue the keeping of two of the strongest gates of the City In the Court yard of this Pallace is a foot ftatua armed and of white marble erected to the foresaid Andrea d' Aurta by the Senate with the title of Father of his Countrey because ne had lately restored the Citizens to their liberty And in an vpper chamber called Sala brutta are diuers statuaes in the habits of Senators erected to Paulo Spinola to Eattista Grimaldo and Ansidio Gri. S. C. On the West side without the wals are Pallaces of Gentlemen almost innumerable and in the highest part of the City was the new Castle E most strongly fortified which the Citizens demolished to preserue their liberty A little lower and within the wals is the new streete vulgarly F La strada Nuona lying from the West to the North-east each house whereof is built with Kingly magnificence neither doe I thinke that any City in the world hath so faire a streete These houses or rather Pallaces may be seene by strangers for the Gentlemens seruants keeping them willingly shew them to any desiring that fauour aswell in expectance of reward as for the honour of their Master and Countrey My selfe did see the Pallace of Giouan Battista d' Auria the building whereof was very stately and the garden not onely most pleasant but adorned with statuaes and fountaines And in one of the chambers were the Gentlemens Armes whereof some were of pure siluer guilded ouer The City hath certaine inner gates which alwaies stand open and shew that the circuit of the City is now much increased and vpon these gates are chaines of iron for remembrance as they say of their liberty once lost The whole circuit of the City excepting the Mola is fiue miles and saue that the inner Hauen strikes somewhat into the City it seemeth almost of a round forme No doubt the City is of great antiquity which some say was built by Gianus King of Italie and of him had the name and that the Promontory 〈◊〉 was of old called the vineyard of Gianus The monument in the Cathedrall Church witnesseth that this City flcrished among the old Cities of Italy about 300. yeeres before Christs incarnation Others will haue the City named of a Latin word as the gate of Italy It is fortified toward the sea with all art and towards the land aswell by nature as art there being but one way to come to it and that ouer high and steepe rockes The streets are narrow the Pallaces are stately built of marble and the other houses of free stone fiue or sixe stories high and the windowes are glased which is rare in Italy The streetes are paued with flint and the houses of the suburbs are almost as faire as within the City Corals are fished in this sea towards Sardinia and Corsica Ilands not farre distant and the ounce thereof is here sold for three lires Now in the very moneth of December the markets were full of summer flowers herbes and fruits whereof I shall speake more in the due place It is prouerbially said of this City Montagne senza legni Mar ' senza pesci huomini senza fede donne senza vergogna Mori bianchi Genoa superba That is Mountaines without wood Sea without fish Men without faith Weomen without shame white Moores Genoa the proud In good earnest they report that the Merchants being not bound by writing make little accompt to breake their promise and the French liberty of the Weomen makes the Italians iudge them without shame and as Florence is called the faire for the building so I thinke Genoa is called the proud The chaires called Seggioli whereof I spake in the discription of Naples are also in vse here in which the Citizens of both sexes are carried vpon two Porters shoulders through the streetes lying vpon the sides of hils the chaires being couered with a curtaine drawne and hauing glasse windowes so as they may see all men and themselues be vnseene Besides in regard of the narrow streetes and the steepe mountaines on all sides they vse horse litters here in stead of Coaches The men in their feasting dancing and free conuersation and the weomen in their apparell come neerer to the French then any other Italians Here I paid one reale by the day for my chamber and dressing my meat which I bought my selfe all things being at good rate in the City as in the Countrey There is such store of fruits as they giue a citron for a quatrine and two Oranges for a quatrine and to end in a word my diet here was for the manner and price not much differing from the same at Pisa. They accompt ninety miles from Genoa to Milan which iourney I went on foot willingly exposing my selfe to this trouble partly to spare my purse in the bottome partly to passe more safely in this disguise through the Dutchy of Milan subiect to the Spaniards who then had warres with the English The first day after dinner I walked all alone seuen miles to Ponte Decimo by the banke of a riuer betweene stony mountaines but frequently inhabited And I paid eight soldi for my supper on reckoning and a cauellotto that is foure bolinei for my bed The second day I went on foot eleuen miles ascending all the way high mountaines and tired with the difficulty of the iourney onely refreshed with the hope of an easie discent from the mountaines and being very hungry by the way I chanced to meet with a begging Friar of the Order of Saint Francis who hauing victuals in his bag gaue me to eat but would receiue no money for it saying it was against their rule to handle any money Thence I walked seuen miles downe those mountaines in the territory of Genoa to Gauidon and foure miles more through a plaine and dirty way in the Dutchy of Milan to Seraualle where I paid foure cauellotti that is sixteene bolinei for my supper and my bed The third day in the morning I walked foureteene
thereof namely clothes of Gold Damasks and Grogerans to the value of a thousand thousand zechines as the report went and setting the ship on fire tooke away the marriners for slaues And the very time of my being in this Iland seuen Turkish Gallies lay vpon this coast and robbed all the Venetian ships falling into their hands so as howsoeuer they had peace then with the Turkish Ottoman yet their ships durst not stirre out of this hauen Whereupon they hauing now occasion to send out ships for Corne the Magistrate forced the Master of an English ship then harbouring there to wast these ships though much against his will when there were some 20 Venetian ships in the same Hauen whereof diuers were of 400 or 500 tuns Also at this time it hapned that a Spanish ship of Catolonia was driuen into this Harbor and the Magistrate calling our Merchants before him would haue forced them to giue caution that the English ships then lying there should not assaile the same though betweene England Spaine war had now long time bin proclaimed but they contesting against this course as iniurious to them yet could not be dismissed till they gaue their words that our ships should not assayle the same by day or night so long as it lay in this Hauen And this Spanish ship for long time not daring to goe forth at last vpon occasion of Venetian Gallies landing there was wafted by them and so escaped Vpon the robbing and burning of the foresaid Venetian ship by Turkish Pyrates the Venetian Baliffe so they call their Ambassadour lying then at Constantinople had obtained the great Turkes Mandate that these Pyrates gallies being burnt they should presently be sent in bonds to his Court and this Mandate was brought by a Chiauss or Pencioner who came in the same ship with vs whereupon the Pyrates being more inraged against the Venetians did at this time take and spoyle another Venetian ship of some foure hundred and fifty Tunnes called the Syluester and not content with the most rich booty did cast into the Sea many Marriners yeelding to mercy and could hardly be perswaded by the intercession of Turkes passengers in the same ship to spare the liues of some twenty chiefe Marriners yet aliue and to forbeare the burning of the ship The Italians of best iudgement did not expect that the great Turke would duly punish these outrages but rather were of opinion that himselfe and his chiefe Visere would draw the greatest part of the prey to their own hands and that the Turkish Gouernours inticed by like participation would endeuour to free these Pyrates and doe their best to nourish them yea that this very Chiauss now sent with a Mandate to suppresse them would be induced by bribes to returne to Constantinople with relation that the Pyrates could not be found so they did as no doubt they would for a time hide themselues and in conclusion that the Venetians after hauing spent much money in obtaining new Mandates for their apprehension should find no other remedy but to repell force by force Vpon Wednesday the thirtieth of March after the old stile in the beginning of the yeere 1597 we set sayle but by contrarietie of winds were againe driuen backe into the Hauen of Zante Vpon Friday the first of Aprill after dinner againe we set saile and the second of Aprill sayling by the Iland Cefalonia whereof I spake in our voyage from Venice to Ierusalem we cast anchor in the outward Hauen of the Iland Corfu because the Master of our ship was sicke and this his sickenesse increasing we set saile to returne backe to the chiefe City of that Iland the Hauen whereof we entered the sixth of Aprill From Zante to Cefaloniae are seuenty miles and from thence to Corfu are 120 miles This Iland Corfu inhabited by Greekes is very fertile yeelding plenty of fruites corne wines and Currands and this Hauen is fortified with two Forts cut out off a Rocke namely the old and the new Fort which is more then a mile in circuit both being very strong and held vnexpugnable so as this Iland is worthily reputed one of the chiefe Keyes of Christendome The Master of our ship hauing recouered his health wee set saile vpon Tuesday the twelfth of Aprill and returned againe to the foresaid outward Hauen of Corfu Iland where an old woman a passenger died and her kinsemen carried her body to be buried on Land Here againe we were forced to stay the winds being contrary Atlast vpon the nineteenth of Aprill towards euening with a faire wind we ioyfully set saile and the twentieth day we sailed ouer the streight Sea betweene Greece and the Prouince of Apulia in Italy Vpon Friday the two and twentieth of Aprill towards the euening hauing sayled some two hundred miles from the said streight we were carried by the shoare of the City Raguza with a faire gale of wind and had the wind beene neuer so contrary yet our Master knowing some late difference risen betweene the Raguzeans and Venetians would not willingly haue landed in that Hauen The blame of which difference some imputed to the Raguzeans in that they fauoured the Scocchi a Neighbour people vpon the shoare of Sclauonia who being subiect to the Emperour and Christians yet robbed all kinds of ships passing these Seas and had lately spoiled and burnt a Venetian Gally in the Port of Rouinge But other alleaged a more probable cause thereof namely that some Venetian Gentlemen for some venerious in solencies there committed had Iately beene slaine in a tumult Raguze of old called Epidaurus and the chiefe City of Selauonia is foure hundred miles distant from Venice built at the foot of an high mountaine vpon the Sea shoare and hath great trafficke by those Seas and huge ships which the Kings of Spatne haue often hired and ioined to their Nauy The gouernement is popular and this City to the wonder of many doth to this day maintaine the liberty though it be seated betweene the very iawes of the two powerfull States of the great Turke and Venetians to one of which all other neere Townes Ilands and Countries are subiect For the Venetians are loath to driue them being Christians to such despaire as they might be forced to yeeld themselues to the great Turke and the City is very strongly fortified towards the sea whence the Venetians can onely assaile them besides that they pay great customes of their trafficke to the State of Venice for which reason that State attempts nothing against the freedome of the City Againe the Turkes knowing that if they should besiege the City by Land the Citizens would with all their best moueables flie into Italy by Sea and receiuing also a great yeerely tribute from the trafficke of this City where the great Turke hath his owne Officer called Chiaussagha to gather the same are also content not to molest them by warre especially since they know that the Pope the King of Spaine
Februarie the Lord Deputie landed in Ireland and there receiued the sword and within few dayes by warrant out of England he granted her Maiesties letters Pattents to Sir George Carew to bee Lord President of Mounster which place liad layen void some few moneths from the death of Sir Thomas Norreys The 27 he receiued aduertisement from the Earle of Ormond Generall of the English forces till his comming ouer that Tyrone was in the West part of Mounster hauing about him not only his owne forces but those of the Rebels of that Prouince which were so great as he had not hitherto power to oppose them but now hauing gathered all the Queenes forces he could make purposed the next morning to set forwards towards him The fifth of March his Lordship receiued aduertisement from other parts that Tyrone could not escape in his returne to the North but either ouer the Riuer Shanon which passage the Earles of Thomond and Clanrickard might easily stop or by the Westward borders of the Pale where if his Lordship would draw his forces to Athboye Mullingar Ballymore and Athlone it was not possible for him to escape them That Tyrone had thus engaged himselfe presuming on the corruption of the State and little expecting his Lordships so sudden comming ouer so as if his Lordship forgaue him this fault he was not like to catch him againe in the like neither could any thing but want of intelligence make his Lordship faile in stopping the returne of Tyrone and his forces into the North. Aduising his Lordship to be wary in crediting intelligences which were commonly false and made of purpose and to expect that besides the knowne enemy and a confused warre he should finde a broken State a dangerous Counsell and false hearted subiects The eight of March the Earle of Ormond sent aduertisement that Tyrone purposed to passe the Riuer Shanon That he had written to the Earle of Thomond to draw towards him that they might oppose his passage but that his Lordship could not performe his order by reason that the Mayor of Leymricke would not afford him carriage for his victuals That Tyrone in scattered Troopes and a cowardly manner hastened his returne and that present day had marched foure and twenty miles without any stay That Sir Warham Sent Leger and Sir Henry Power ioint Commissioners for gouerning of Mounster with the forces vnder their charge had met neere Corke with Hugh Mac Gwter chiefe Lord of Fermanagh in the North and that in the incounter Sir Warham Sent Leger and the said Mac Guire were killed That his Lordship had burned all the Townes where the Traytors might find reliefe and that they vsed the same course towards her Maiesties Subiects The same day the Lord Deputy receiued further aduertisement from Mounster that Tyrone was compassed in by the Earle of Ormond on the one side and the Earle of Thomond on the other and by the Commissioners forces on the third side who ruled the Prouince after the death of Sir Thomas Norreys vntill a Lord President should be chosen for he that was newly sent ouer was yet at Dublyn that the Mayor of Lymbricke had commandement to lay ships and boates to hinder his passage by that Hauen as likewise the Mayor of Galway to interrupt his passage by sea and the Earle of Clanrickard to stop his passage by land through Connaght So as how soeuer he were fiue thousand strong in able men besides many of baser sort yet he being far from any second of Vlster men in whom the chiefe strength of the Rebellion consisted and no way able to returne thither his vtter confusion was confidently hoped But these were onely Irish oftentations of seruice which seldome vse to take effect and many times are not truly intended as the sequell will shew And lest the Lord Deputy should expect faithfull dealing of the English Irish Subiect in the other kind of seruice by supplying the Army of necessaries the nobilitie Gentrie of the very English Pale the same day exhibited a petition to his Lordship to preuent the opinion of disloialtie vpon refusal of such supplies by pretending of disabillitie vpon the great spoyles which aswell the rebels as the English souldiers had made vpon all the inhabitants The Lord Deputie had written a former letter to Master Secretarie in excuse of not reducing the Armie from foureteene thousand foote to twelue thousand according to the new Establishment aswell because the same was to begin the first of Februarie which his Lordship could not effect since he arriued not in Ireland vntill the twentie sixe of the same moneth as also because the Army was presently farre diuided the greater part thereof being with the Earle of Ormond and for that whensoeuer they returned the discharged Companies must presently bee reduced into some other or else so many men and Armes should bee meerely lost as the Lords Iustices had lately found by experience when determining to cast a Company of one hundred and fiftie being by Pole a hundred of the oldest and best souldiers with purpose next day to deliuer them to other Captaines vpon the diuulging thereof onely three of the whole Company with their Armes could be found to be so transmitted To this letter formerly written and perswading that the two thousand might still be continued in pay his Lordship receiued the following answere from her Maiestie dated the fifteenth of March. Elizabeth Regina ALthough we haue vpon your earnest request in whose affection and duty we doe repose trust and confidence yeelded to the continuance of fourteene thousand foot for some small time both because we conceiue that according to your reasons it will giue good assurance to the Plantation of Loughfoyle and the reduction of Lemster and preuent the present terror which this proud attempt of Tyrones to passe ouer all the Kingdome hath stricken into the hearts of all our Subiects and would increase if we should presently haue abated our numbers yet must welet you know that we doe expect at your hands and doe determine that assoone as the present bruites are passed you shall diminish the same by little and little hereafter according to our first determination for we haue had too good proofe of that gouernement as not to know and discerne that all the mischiefes of our seruice haue growne most by lacke of discretion and order by vaine iournies whilst better opportunities haue beene lost by vndiscreet carriages of all secret purposes by placing Captaines of small merit or experience and which is aboue all by nourishing the Irish who are snakes in our bosomes whilst we hold them and when they are out doe conuert vpon our selues the experience and strength they haue gotten by our making them to be Souldiers And therefore you shall vnderstand now that although we haue beene content to grace some such as are of noble houses and such others as haue drawne blood on the Rebels with charge of Companies yet we find it now growne
onely serued at the loosing of the Kingdome so as they were least fit to be preferred before those who had hazarded their liues in regaining it Adding that he writ not this to vphold any priuate dependency on himselfe esteeming it a great vanity so to doe but onely to strengthen himselfe so long and no longer then he should be imploied in her Maiesties seruice That in stead of new supplies he desired leaue to entertaine some of the Irish Submitties in pay by them to consume the Rebels and by the Rebels to diminish their number since two things remained to settle the Kingdome First the ridding Ireland of the Swordmen to which end the Irish affected some iourney into the Low Countries or the Indies which could not make them any whit more able Souldiers then now they were not adde to their knowledge of warre fit for Ireland which they now had but three parts of foure were like neuer to returne if they were ingaged in such a voyage Secondly the making of the English owners fit to inhabit their lands which was most difficult in regard of their pouerty and of the great quantities of lands they possessed since in particular of some gentlemen of Leax and Ophalia each possessed as much land as being well inhabited would maintaine more men then all the Rebels of those Counties were in number About the tenth of May his Lordship gaue warrant to passe the pardon of Phelim mac Feogh Obirn of the Glinnes with his followers and likewise of Phelim mac Feogh O Toole of the Fartrey with fifty six followers And vpon the humble submission of Rossemac Mahowne his Lordship granted him her Maiesties protection till he might sue out his pardon About this time his Lordship had aduertisement from Sir Henry Deckwra Gouernour at Loughfoyle That he had taken in Odogherties Countrey and secured the passages into it as well against Odonnell as the false Inhabitants That he hauing gathered the forces to spoile Hughmac Hugh Duffes Countrey the proiect was frustrated by and Irishman stealing from the Army and giuing them intelligence hereof so as they droue the prey sarre oft into remote parts That Neale Garue with Cormocke O Neale dispatched lately from Dublin were arriued at Loughsoyle That he the said Gouernour deferring the prosecution of Ocane because he had no Hauen in his Countrey for the landing of Spaniards nor could escape from the English forces though Spaniards should land the same time resolued to enter Hugh mac Hugh Duffes Countrey as more fit to receiue forraigne forces and to supply them with victuals or other necessaries And to this end that he had assembled the forces to the Liffer That Shane mac Manus Oge Odonnell commanding certaine Ilands in the Sen did there offer to submit but vpon such conditions as were vnfit yet the Irish extolling his valour and intreating for him and Neaie Garue for the time being content to spare him of the men allowed him fifty foot and twenty fiue horse that he the Gouernour had further promised him vpon acceptable seruice to procure him as many more men in her Maiesties pay whereuppon he had taken his oath of obedience and had secretly sent word to his people to spoyle Rory Odonnels Countrey who then had him in no suspition This done that he the Gouernour suddenly entered Hugh Duffes Countrey aforesaid and spoyled the same taking a prey of more then one thousand Cowes with great numbers of Garrons Sheepe and Goates That thence he marched into Fanaght where 〈◊〉 Oge mac Swinedoe Lord of the Doe met him on the borders and deliuering the chiefe pledges of his Countrey for his and their loyalty tooke his oath of obedience to her Maiestie That hearing of Odonnels drawing into those parts he thence retired with great part of the forces leauing Neale Garue with his Irish and some English Companies for his assistance to spoyle and absolutely waste Fannaght to whom Mac Swine Fannaght Lord of the Countrey presently deliuered pledges of his loyalty taking his oath of obedience to her Maiestie at which time likewise Mac Swine Bane and O Boyle earnestly solicited the Gouernour to be receiued to mercy That Neale Garue by the keeping of Tirconnell granted him at Dublyn for the time till her Maiesty might please to passe the same to him by Letters Pattents and by great gifts he had there receiued was puffed vp with pride desiring present possession of the Countrey and calling the people his subiects and saying to the Gouernours face that he would punish exact cut hange them as he list But that he had calmed him with seuere speeches with charge not to meddle with any man or any part of the Countrey vpon his alleagiance since he had no right but from her Maiesties bounty not yet fully expressed and that not soueraigne but limitted so as might best stand with the peoples good who were not his but her Maiesties subiects That he found him to be in his nature proud valiant miserable tyrannous vnmeasurably couetous without any knowledge of God or almost any ciuility good to be vsed while he was satisfied which he could hardly bee being like a Quince requiring great cost ereit be good to eat or whilst he was kept vnder which was the fitter course to be held with him yet that he thought him sure to the State in regard of the pledges he had giuen but much more because he could no way better his estate by leauing the Queenes seruice nor be secure of any word from Odonnell whose brother he had killed That Cormacke O Neale being of late come from Dublyn could hitherto haue done no seruice but that he was of reasonable esteeme among the people of his Countrey and was of a mild honest disposition willing to serue without grating beggery or vnreasonable demands yet was Irish and little lesse barberous then the better sort of wood kern That comming out of the woods without friend or kinseman he could then giue no pledges but his wife and children were since come to him and within the Gouernours power besides that he seemed not to be inclined to trechery neither could mend his estate by leauing the Queenes seruice to which he came in voluntarily without calling forcing or composition and therein remained with his desires limitted and to be contented with reason That Hugh Boy was subtill wise ciuil a Papist and aliened but not deeply malicious against Odonnels person yet firme in his allegiance hauing come in with his Countrey and deliuered his chiefe pledges offering any other to be deliuered vpon command and hauing shewed the passages into his Countrey and himselfe sollicited and furthered the fortifying thereof daily giuing sure and important intelligences to the great furtherance of the seruice besides that all his wealth lay within the power of the Queenes forces Lastly that betweene these submitties were factions and heart-burnings which discreetly measured could not but aduantage the seruice The fifteenth of May the Lord Deputy receiued by the
That he inquired to Tyrone and Odonnel seeming to distaste their being so farre off and the way to them being dangerous and his owne want of horses and therefore prayed this Gentleman to certifie Tirrell and the Lord of Leytrim that hee expected Tyrone with horses and beeues which hee praied them to supply in the meane time both sending him notice before they came adding that himselfe had Bread Rice Pease and Wine for eighteene moneths and store of treasure And that he inquired much after the strength of Corke and the Queenes new Fort there Lastly he aduertised that the ships returned were foureteene of them six the Kings owne of one thousand run the least in which was the Admirall Generall Saint liage and the great Admirall of Castill Don Diego de Bruxero That the twelue remaining were smaller and embarged or arctied to serue the King whereof some were Irish. That the ships at Baltemore had 700 men That by his view there were 3000 in Kinsale royally prouided of all prouisions for war hauing many saddles for horses and that vpon Tyrones expected comming they intended to take the field The thirteenth it was resolued we should presently take the field though wee had not as yet any prouisions fit for that purpose but that day and the two dayes following we could not stirre from Corke by reason of extreame raine and foule weather Neither artillery munitiō nor victuals were yet come from Dublin yet it was thought fitter thus vnprouided to take the field then by discouery of our wants to giue the Irish opportunitie and courage to ioyne with the Spaniard CHAP. II. Of the besieging of the Spaniards at Kinsale with the deliuery of the Towne to the Lord Deputy and their returne into Spaine in the same yeere 1601. THe 16 day of October his Lordship with the Army rose from Corke and encamped fiue miles short of Kinsale at a place called Owny Buoy The 17 the army rose marching towards Kinsale encamped within half a mile of the towne vnder a hill called Knock Robin where some few shot of the Spaniards offered to disturbe our sitting downe but were soone beaten home Wee had at that time scarce so much Powder as would serue for a good dayes fight neither had wee any competent number of tooles so as wee could not intrench our selues for these prouisions were not yet come from Dublin That day Captain Morgan came out of England with one of the Queenes ships and our Master Gunner came from Waterford aduertising that some ships of prouisions sent from Dublin were come to that Port where they were enforced to stay by a contrary wind being Southerly The eighteenth the Army lay still and we viewed the fittest places to incampe neere the Towne but our Artillerie being not come we remoued not And that night the Spaniards made a salley much greater then the former to disturbe our Campe but our men soone repelled them without any losse to vs. The ninteenth wee lay still expecting prouisions and that day our men sent to view the ground had some slight skirmishes with the enemy and Deu Iean after professed that hee neuer saw any come more willingly to the sword then our men did That night Sir Iohn Barkeley was appointed to giue Alarum to the Towne who did beate the Spanish guardes set without the Towne into their trenches The next night after some sixteene hundred Spaniards came to the top of the hill vnder which wee lay either with purpose to cut off some of the scouts or to attempt some thing on the Campe But Sir Iohn Barkeley lying with a party of ours not exceeding three hundred discouered them and skirmishing with them killed some dead in the place tooke some Armes and other spoyle and hurt diuers and did beate them backe to the Towne without the losse of any one of our men and onely three hurt The one and twentieth Cormock Mac Dermot an Irish man chiefe of a Countrie called Ministerie came with the rising out or souldiers of his Countrie to shew them to the Lord Deputy who to the end the Spaniards might see the meere Irish serued on our side commanded them at their returne to passe by the Spanish trenches made without the Towne on the top of the hil but lodged strong parties out of the enemies fight to second them The Irish at first went on wel and did beat the Spanish guards from their ground but according to their custome suddenly fell off and so left one of the Lord Presidents horsemen ingaged who had charged two Spaniards but Sir William Godolphin commanding the Lord Deputies troope when he saw him in danger and vnhorsed did charge one way vpon their grosse and Captaine Henry Barkley Cornet of the same troope charged another way at the same instant and droue their shot into the trenches and so rescued the horseman with his horse comming off with one man hurt and onely one horse killed from the great numbers of Spanish shot whereof foure were left dead in the place diuers carried off dead into the Towne and many hurt The two and twentieth day Captaine Button arriued at Corke with the Queenes Pinnis called the Moone which wafted other ships bringing victuals and munition from Dublyn and the same day came to the Campe aduertising that the same shippes were come from Waterford towards Corke That night his Lordship sent him backe to bring his ship about to Kinsale Harbour and to take with him Captaine Wards shippe from Oyster Hauen where it lay to guard the victuall and munition we brought with vs. These two ships were commanded to annoy the Castle of Rincoran seated close vpon the harbour of Kinsale and possessed by the Spaniard but after they had spent many shot vpon the Castle without any great effect because their Ordinance was small they lay still to keepe the Harbour that neither the Castle nor the Towne might be releeued by water which was the chiefe end of their comming The three twentith the Dublyn shipping arriued at Corke were directed to come presently to Oyster Hauen where we might vnlade the Artillery which could not be brought by land and other prouisions for the present vse of the Army The foure and twenty day it was resolued we should rise and incampe close by the Towne but the shipping being not come about with the artillery and other necessaries that day was spent in dispatching for England And by night Captaine Blany and Captaine Flower were sent out to lie with fiue hundred foote to intertaine the Spaniards which were drawne out of the Towne but they came no further and so our men returned This day his Lordship and the Counsell wrote to the Lords in England this following letter IT may please your Lordships since our last dispatch from Corke which bare date the fourth of this present moneth we spent some time there expecting the comming of the old Companies out of the Pale and Northerne parts and hoping to be supplied
before all the people of the Towne in continuall feare to be burned The Lord Deputy hauing quietly settled all the Townes and Cities in Mounster returned to Dublyn and because vpon the first settling of peace many petitions were exhibited against the late Rebels for restitution of goods which they had taken in time of rebellion and were not now able to restore so as the exacting thereof was like to produce new troubles rather then any satisfaction to the plaintiffes an authenticall act of obliuion for all like grieuances was published and sent to the Gouernours in all parts of the Kingdome In this late Mounster Iourney his Lordship receiued letters from the King whereby he was chosen to be one of his Maiesties Priuie Counsell in England and being made Lord Lieutenant of Ireland with two third parts of the Deputies allowance assigned to him was licensed to come ouer into England and had authoritie to leaue Sir George Carey the Kings Deputy during his Lordships absence hauing the other third part of the Deputies allowance and his owne entertainement as Treasurer at Warres for his support And Captaine Floyd lying now in the Harbour with the Kings Pinace called the Tramontana ready to transport him his Lordship with the Earle of Tyrone in his company together with his houshold seruants and some Knights and Gentlemen his followers tooke ship in the afternoone and the next morning early we discouered the desired land of England the weather being very saire but within one hower the skie being ouer cast with a thicke fog and we bearing all sayles we fell suddenly vpon the Skerryes an hideous great blacke Rocke where after so many dangers escaped in the warres it pleased God miraculously to deliuer vs from being cast away as it were in the very Hauen For certaine birds called Guls seeing our ship ready to rush vpon them and their desart habitation with full sayles rose crying and fluttering round about vs whereat the Gouernours of the Pinace being amazed looked out and beholding that terrible spectacle cried to the Steare-man aloofe for life which fearefull voice might haue danted him as it did most in the ship but he stoutly did his worke answering helme aboard which done the ship by force of the sterne and by the help of the tide comming in between it and the Rocke turned about with strange swiftnesse and swumme along by the Rocke so neere to it as the Beate hanging at the sterne dashed against it Neither were the most expert men in the ship for a long time free of this feare knowing that such great Rockes haue vsually small pinacles adioining to them the least whereof had beene as dangerous to vs as the maine Rocke but the ship by Gods mercifull prouidence passing on safely that day by noone we came into the Bay of Beaumarris and were set on shore by the boate The Earle of Tyrone rode from thence to London in the Lord Mountioy his company and howsoeuer his Lordships happy victory against this Traitor made him gracious in the eyes of the people yet no respect to him could containe many Weomen in those parts who had lost Husbands and Children in the Irish warres from flinging durt and stones at the Earle as he passed and from reuiling him with bitter words yea when the Earle had beene at Court and there obtaining his Maiesties direction for his pardon and performance of all conditions promised him by the Lord Mountioy was about September to returne hee durst not passe by those parts without direction to the Shiriffes to conuay him with troopes of Horse from place to place till hee were safely imbarked and put to the Sea for Ireland The Lord Mountioy comming to Court was honoured of all men and graciously receiued of the King being presently sworne one of his Maiesties priuy Counsell And for further reward of his seruices shortly after the King made him Master of the Ordinance gaue him two hundred pound yeerely old Rent of Assise out of the Exchequer and as much more out of the Dutchy to him and his heires for euer besides the Countrey of Lecale in Ireland together with other lands in the Pale there which after the decease of the Lady Mabell Countesse of Kildare were to fall to the Crowne for want of heires males of her body He had the full superintendency ouer all Irish affaires no dispatches passing to and from the Lord Deputy but through his hands as Lord Leiuetenant And his Maiestie likewise created him Earle of Deuonshire which dignity was to discend to the heires of his body lawfully begotten But it died with him and he enioyed the rest of this worldly happinesse but few yeeres For he was surprised with a burning Feuer whereof the first fit being very violent he called to him his most familiar friends and telling them that he had euer by experience and by presaging minde beene taught to repute a burning Feuer his fatall enemy desired them vpon instructions then giuen them to make his Will and then he said Let death looke neuer so vgly he would meet him smiling which he nobly performed for I neuer saw a braue spirit part more mildely from the old mansion then his did departing most peaceably after nine daies sickenesse vpon the third of Aprill in the beginning of the yeere 1606. This most worthy Lord cured Ireland from the most desperate estate in which it euer had beene and brought it to the most absolute subiection in which it had euer beene since the first Conquest thereof by our Nation Yet hee left this great worke vnperfect and subiect to relapse except his successours should finish the building whose foundation he had laied and should pollish the stones which he had onely rough hewed And because hee knew this relapse would be most dangerous hauing obserued euery rebellion in Ireland to bee more dangerous then the former and that none could be more dangerous then this last without the losse of the Kingdome therefore he was most carefull to preuent all future mischiefes To which end whatsoeuer effects his designes had sure I am that he did meditate these wholesome prciects First to establish Garrisons in the Cities of Mounster and in the renewing of their forfeited Charters to cut of many exorbitant priuiledges granted to their first English Progenitors from whom they were so degenerated as the very speaking of English was by them forbidden to their wiues and children Then by the exchanging of lands and by the disposing of the new grants of lands to be made to the Irish to draw them all to inhabit the inland Country and to plant the English vpon the hauens Sea-Coasts and Riuers Lastly because he knew all endeuours would be in vaine if Ciuill Magistrates should thinke by faire meanes without the sword to reduce the Irish to due obedience they hauing been conquered by the sword and that maxime being infallible that all Kingdomes must be preserued by the same meanes by which they were first gained
the Sunne that the infolded wormes may die whereby 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 is made excellent which otherwise would bee little worth They feede on the leaues of Mulberry trees and the Duke of Florence plants these trees in the ditches vpon the highway from which if any passenger pul a bough he paies a great penalty Wondring at this making of silke and the art to weaue the same after I returned into Englond by acquaintance with som that for experience kept these wormes I found that about the moneth of August they cast seed vpon paper or linnen cloth wheron they are laid and soone after die That this seed laid aside al winter is set forth in the Sun the next May or assoone as the Mulbery trees yeeld leaues to feede the wormes That by the Suns heate the wormes take life of that seede in the forme of an horse haire at the first after growing to a strange bignes feeding greedily vpon those leaues That they begin then to be sick growing of a yellow color leaue their feeding That they are then put into a place fitted for their work with corners little distant one from the other that they then weaue and infold themselues in their webs as I said That part of the webs are laid aside to preserue the wormes out of which they eat out their way and come forth winged like butterflies but little vse the wing and these webs yeeld no silke thread but being dressed and seuered do serue for baser vses That the rest of the webs are put into an ouen to choke the wormes which webs yeeld excellent silke disloluing it selfe into small threads Lastly that the wormes preserued by spoiling their webs out of which they eate their way do as I said cast a seed or glutinous matter vpon a paper or linnen cloth and then die And that all these things namely to come to life to be fed vp to weaue their web to leaue seede for generation and to die are finished in the space of foure moneths After taking my iourney into Turkey I did see infinite numbers of these wormes in the greater and lesser Asia where I found that these wormes grow to full bignes from the moneth of February to the moneth of May then leaue their meate then haue houses made of reedes for them of purpose like the hiues for Bees but more large where as I said they inuolue themselues in their owne webs which being set in the Sunne the wormes die within them and the webs moistned with hot water are with wheeles drawne into small threads That some of these webs for preseruation of the kind are laid aside within the houses where the wormes eate out their way and comming forth winged are laid vpon a linnen cloth vpon which they leaue the foresaid seed or glutinous matter and so die That these clothes are laid aside in winter but in the moneth of February next following are set out in the sun or more frequently caried in the bosoms of country people both men and women by which heat the seed yeelds worms at first no greater then a graine of mustard seed but after growing to the length of a mans haire as he vsually weares it on his head to the thicknes of a mans little finger Formerly in the chapter of Prouerbs I said that prouerbially the Merchāts of Florence were called crafty those of Lucca greedy those of Venice bold ventring al in one vessel those of Milan faithfull professing if neede be that the plague is in the house they desire to sell. And I there mentioned this prouerb of the Venetian trafficke Ilbianco il Nero cioè pepe cottone hanno fatto venetia ricca Black and white that is pepper and cotton haue made Venice rich English Merchants bring into Italy Tinne Leade Herrings especially dried which they esteeme among dainties Conny skin Veches Kersies and sometimes English Corne. They also bring thither diuers commodities from Dantzk as Cordage Hempe Cauiale Tallow Waxe Indian Hides and like commodites of Poland and Moscouy The Netherlanders bring into Italy dried fishes and the commodities of all Nations with which they trade both here and in all places Into England Netherland and ouer parts the Italians send Veluets of Genoa Taffaties of Florence and Lucca Sattens of Bologna and other Cities Stuffes of Milan as Fustians and diuers kinds of Silke wouen and in thread Gold and Siluer Clothes of gold and siluer Alom and like commodities brought to Venice out of Turkey From the Ilands of the Mediterranean Sea subiect to Venice they send to vs Malmsies and Muskedine wines of Candia Corrands of Zant and Cephalonia The ships of our parts which bring Corne or any victuals into Italy are receiued with all courtesie especially by the Duke of Florence in the hauen of Ligorno and euen by the Pope in the hauen of Ciuita Vecchia The Italians haue great traffick with the Turks in the Mediterranean Sea whereof we shal speak more hereafter but out of the straights of that Sea they trade little in our age or nothing at all except sometimes into Spaine with their owne ships And for Nauigation whereof I must speake in the Chapter of Commonwealths they haue small skill in that art Their ships are of great but then to receiue commodities and well furnished with Ordinance against the Turkish Pyrates but they are slow and not easily turned so as sometimes the Turkes lesse daring at sea yet take some great Venetian ships with their small barques or gallyes For the Italians and Turkes make their Nauall fights with gallies and no other ships whereof the Venetian and Spaniard haue great numbers in this Sea Wee reade that the Pope made league with the Venetians and Spaniards for bearing some charge of war against the Turkes and it is likely he hath some galleys in that one sole hauen of Ciuita Vecchia belonging to him but I neuer chanced to see any of the Popes gallies The Duke of Florence at this time had ready armed to spoile the Turks some 5 or 6 gallies the other Princes haue none at al. These gallies are much different in bignes and haue their names of the number of the oares rowing them as Trtremes of three oares on each side Quindeciremis of fifteene oares and the Mediterranean Sea being subiect to small ebbings or flowings of tides and little subiect to stormes these galleys safely row betweene the neighbouring shoares and euery night put into some Hauen or Baye The Italians are so much inamored of their owne land as they desire to see no other soyle and abhorre from venturing themselues at Sea so as they seldome proue expert in Nauigation neuer bold The Venetians haue a Law that euery ship shall carry a young Gentleman of Venice in it allowing him diet and a stipend and also shall bring vp a Venetian boy in 〈◊〉 Thus their wise Progenitors tooke care that neither Gentlemen nor the inferiour sort should be ignorant in Nauigation But the Gentlemen at
stadia distant towards the North lye the three famous Pyramides Three dayes iourney towards the East in a Garden called Matarta being well fortified of old grew and still growes the hearb Balsamum sweating Balsam out of the boughes and being cut with a knife yeelding the more precious Opobalsamum and at this day the same is found euen at Caiero in the Gardens of the richer sort They say also that Corrall is found in the Red Sea I had almost omitted the Citie Arsinoe also called the Citie of the Crocodiles because the Crocodile was there worshipped Nilus falles into the Mediterranean Sea in seuen great Armes which haue the names of the adiacent Townes namely Heracleoticum or canopicum Boluiticum Sebamticum Patinicum Mendesium Caniticum and Pelusiacum the first and the last whereof are one hundred and seuenty miles distant one from the other The Nilus doth yeerely ouerflow and thereby giues incredible fertility to the ground and the snow melting vpon the Mountaines of Luna or the constellation of the Moone and Mercury are thought to bee causes of this ouerflowing And the same happening to bee greater or lesse then vsuall or comming later or sooner then vsuall is a signe of dearth to them whereof Pliny saith that Egypt in twelue cubites height of the floud feeleth famine atthirteene cubites is hungry but that fourteene makes them merry fifteene safe and sixteene brings plenty and dainties It is strange that all other Riuers eating and consuming their bankes Nilus rather increaseth them by bringing with it a mud that couers the sand and doth as it were dung the fields to make them more fertill In sixty dayes after the floud the fields are cleare of water The floud increaseth from the Summer Solstice to the Suns entring into Libra and after the water retires into his owne bed About the twelfth of October they sow their fields and in May following reape their haruest Egypt with the Prouinces belonging to it hath long been subdued by the Turkes 6 Lybia hath diuers Prouinces Biledurgeret that is the Region of Dates is inhabited by the black Getuli From thence towards the Riuer Niger lye the Deserts of Lybia waste and full of Lyons Pardes and other fierce and venemous beasts whereof came the fictions of Medusa and Persues The inhabitants of Atsanaga are of a colour betweene tawny and blacke At the Promontory called the white Cape is the Citie called Argen where the Arabians and Portugalls trade together At the Promontory called the greene Cape the Riuer Niger falles into the Atlantick Ocean and the inhabitants are called Nigrite This tract containes many Kingdomes namely Senige Gambrey Tambot Guangara where the Garamantes dwelt of old two Kingdoms of Nubia and other Kingdomes which I omit as subiect to their Kings or to Pretz Ian and so not belonging to our purpose 7 AEthiopia is diuided by Nilus into inward and outward Inwad AEthiopia is diuided by old Writers into AEthiopia properly so called Trogloditica and Barbaria and in the middes thereof is the Iland Meroe made by Nilus in which was a City called Meroe the seate of the old Kings after called Saba whence was the queene which came to Salomon and the Eunuch of Queene Candaces whom Philip baptized The Troglodites liue in caues of the earth and their kingdom is at this day called Adel. Barbaria extends eight degrees beyond the AEquator from the promontory called Capo di 〈◊〉 to the Gulfe of Barbary and was so called of old The outward AEthiopia is called AEgisimba by Ptolomy and containes the Kingdome of Amatzen and of Vangue seated vnder the AEquinoctiall line All AEthiopia and part of Libia are said to bee subiect to Pretz Ian therefore I say no more of them nor of the Kingdomes vnder the Mountaines of Luna as pertaining not to my purpose 8 Onely of the many Prouinces vnder the Mountaines of Luna beyond the Equinoctiall line I will adde that the inhabitants of Capo dibuona speranza the cape of good hope are exceeding blacke and nothing different from the AEthiopians and Lybians though they haue a greater latitude by thirtie degrees towards the South equall to the latitude of the farthest part of Spaine and liue vnder the temperate Zone 9 The greatest Iland of Affrick called Madagascar by the inhabitants and Saint Laurence by the Spaniards is of the Mahometan Religion and is said to abound with the medicinall wood Santalum with Amber and Elephants The Canary Ilands called of old the fortunate Ilands are sixe or more as some write in number whereof Canaria the greatest gaue the name to the rest which are subiect to the King of Spaine as are likewise the Hesperides little Ilands seated ouer against the greene Cape The Turkish Emperour hath to my knowledge no other I le of Affricke vnder him The Turkish Empire being so vast and containing great part of Europe Asia and Affrick the temper of the aire can not bee otherwise described then by particular parts thereof But out of the description of this Empire in the iournall of the first Part and by comparing the particular Prouinces with others of the same longitude and latitude and by the fruits and exported commodities here to be mentioned the temper of the ayre may bee knowne or at least coniectured more easily To this purpose I will onely adde that I landing in Palestine about the end of May found their wheate haruest almost inned and in the Hauen of Ioppa bought about a thousand Abricots for sixe Aspers And the yeere following when I sailed from Constantinople towards Italy that about the middst of March I did eate pease and other pulse in the Greeke Ilands Lastly in Palestine Cyprus and those parts partly I vnderstood by others partly I found by experience that it seldome raines and that about September and October onely and not often at that time but so violently for the time as if it would beate downe the very houses falling as it were by palefulls at once and that the fields are watred with night dewes at the fall whereof no man stirres out of dores but with his head well couered for danger of sicknesse all men vsing to keepe in the house till the dew be dried while in the meane time by day the heate is so excessiue as a man can hardly indure his apparrell though it be of linnen or silke if it hang not loose but be close about him The fertilitie of the soyle generally through this Empire is exceeding great and the goodnesse and varietie of the fruits equalleth and in some places passeth Italy The wines of Greete of Mount Libanus and especially of Palormo in Natolia are exceeding rich and good Yet haue the Turkes lesse plenty of all things then Europe for they very sparingly and onely to serue necessity either set plant or sow great part of the people being wasted with warres and they that remaine hauing not free fruition of their owne goods in the great tyranny vnder which they liue aswell
the King shall please to appoint In Hackstow Forrest at the hill Stiperstons are great heapes of stones which the vulgar sort dreame to haue been the diuels bridge Wrockceter of old the chiefe Citie burt by the Romans is now a pretty village and from the decay therof grew the well knowne Citie Shrewesburie now the chiefe Citie fortified by art and nature rich by making wollen cloth and trading with the neighbouring Welchmen where Henry Percy the younger with his forces was ouerthrowne by Henrie the fourth 32 Cheshire is a great County of Gentlemen no other County hauing so many Knights houses Westchester is a faire Citie where the twentieth Legion called victrix lay in Garison in the time of Vespasian the Roman Emperor Most white Salt is made at Nantwich and lesse white made at Middlewich and Norwich It is rich in Pastures and sends great quantitie of cheeses to London I know that Worcester cheeses are most esteemed but there is not such quantitie to transport them I know that Suffolke and the Fennes of Essex yeeld huge cheeses in great number to bee exported but they are not so pleasing to the taste as these I know that in all the Counties some quantity of very good cheeses is made for priuate mens vses but not in proportion to bee exported Whereas Cheshire yeelds great quantity of very good cheeses comparable to those of Holland seruing the greatest part of London therewith and exporting the same into other parts When the heyres males of this County faced Henry the third added this large patrimony to the Crowne so as the Kings eldest sonne should be Earle of Cheshire And Richard the second of a County made it a Principality and himselfe was called Prince of Cheshire but Henry the fourth reduced it againe to a Countie Palatine and at this day it hath Palatine iurisdiction administred by a Chamberlaine a speciall Iudge two Exchequer Barons three Serieants at Law a Sheriffe an Atturney an Escheator c. 33 Herefordshire was of old inhabited by the Silures and it so much abeundeth with all things necessarie for the life of man as it is not content in that respect to haue the second place among all the Counties of England Hereford is the chiefe Citie thereof Lemster iustly boasteth of the Sheepes wooll feeding in those grounds with which no part of Europe can compare excepting Apulia and Tarentum It yeelds excellent Fiax and so good Wheate as the bread of Lemster and drinke of Weabley a neighbour Towne are prouerbially praised before all others 34 Radnoxshire had of old the same inhabitants and is the first County of Wales whereof Radnox is the chiefe Towne 35 Brechnocshire the second County of Wales had of old the same inhabitants and hath the name of the chiefe Towne seated in the middest thereof where Henry the eight instituted a Collegiate Church 36 Monmouthshire had of old the same inhabitants and is so called of the chiefe Towne no way so glorious as in that Henry the fifth Conquerer of France was borne there It hath also another faire Towne called Chepstow 37 Glamorganshire the fourth County of Wales had of old the same inhabitants and the chiefe Citie Caerdiffe hath a commodious Hauen 38 Caermardenshire the fifth County of Wales was of old inhabited by the Dimetae and is fruitefull in Corne abounds in Sheepe and in some places yeelds Pit-coale It hath the name of the chiefe Citie where Merlin was borne begotten by an Incubus Deuill whom the common people tooke for a most famous Prophet 39 Pembrookeshire the sixth County of Wales had of old the same inhabitants Here a long neck of land makes an Hauen called Milford hauen then which Europe hath not a more noble Hauen or more safe or more large with many creekes and safe roades made more famous by the landing of H. the seuenth Pembrook is the chiefe Towne of the County The Flemming hauing their Townes drowned by the Sea had a Territorie of this County giuen them to inhabit by Henry the first before Wales was subdued and they euer remained most faithfull to the Kings of England 40 Kardiganshire the seuenth County of Wales and had of old the same inhabitants and hath the name of the chiefe City 41 Montgomeryshire the eight County of Wales was of old inhabited by the Ordouices and hath the name of the chiefe Towne 42 Mertonethshire the ninth County of Wales had of old the same Inhabitants where vpon the mountaines great slockes of sheepefeede without any danger of the wolfe for the wolues were destroied through all England when Edgar King of England imposed the yeerely tribute of three hundreth wolues vpon 〈◊〉 Prince of Wales The little and poore towne Bala is the eheefe of this Mountenous people 43 Caernaruonshire the tenth County of Wales had of old the same Inhabitants and was called Snodenforest before Wales was reduced into Counties so called of the mountaines whose tops are alwaies white with snow deseruing to be named the Alps of Britany and it is certaine that there be lakes and standing waters vpon the tops of those Mountaines The walled City Caernaruon checfe of the County hath a most faire Castle built by Edward the first wherein his sonne Edward the second was borne and named thereof Bangor that is faire Chancell is the seate of a Bishop Aberconway deserues the name of a strong and faire little City rather then of a Towne saue that it is not full of Inhabitants 44 Denbighshire the eleuenth County of Wales had of old the same Inhabitants and hath the name of the cheefe Towne well inhabited The little Village Momglath had the name of the mines of lead which that pleasant territory yeelds Not far thence is the Towne Wrexham bewtified with a most saire Tower called the Holy Tower and commended for the musicali Organes in the Church 45 The little County Flintshire the twelfth of Wales had of old the same Inhabitants the fields whereof the first yeere after they haue line fallow yeeld more then twenty measures for one in some places of Barly in other places of Wheate and generally of Rie and after for foure or fiue yeeres yeeld Oates Holiwell named of the sacred Fountaine is a little Towne where is the Fountaine of Winefrede a Christian Virgin who being defloured by force there was killed by the Tyrant and this Fountaine is farre and greatly famous for the Mosse there growing of a most pleasant smell A faire Chappell of Free stone is built vpon the very Fountaine and a little streame runnes out of it among stones vpon which a certaine bloody humour growes The Castle Flint gaue the name to the County 46 I will omit Anglesey the thirteenth County of Wales because it is to be described among the Ilands 47 Yorkeshire is the farre largest County of all England and was of old inhabited by the Brigantes In the Forrest called Hatfield Chase are great Heards of red Deare and Harts The Townes of Sheffeld and
by rents of lands woods customes at gates confiscations Fines goods left to the Prince as by shipwracks and Bastards dying without children by homages Pensions and like profits and all hereditary treasurers and the two generall Receiuers giue accompt in this court Phillip the bold gaue this court great authority but Iohn his sonne remoued the counsellers thereof to the office of Iustice in Ghant and left the court at Lile to register the Princes edicts and Priuiledges granted by him Fourthly the court called the Counsell of Flaunders which I said was remoued from Lile to Ghant and seems chiefe in dignity first instituted partly by litle litle to draw Flaunders from the iurisdiction of Paris in imitation of Brabant Hennault and Holland for which howsoeuer the Princes did homage to the Emperor yet they belonged not to the iurisdiction of the Empire homage and iurisdiction by nature and in themselues being much different But the chiefe cause of the institution was the long absence of Phillip the bold in France during the infirmity of the French King in whose time this court formerly kept in diuers places at the Princes pleasure was setled at Ghant and to this court are referred all things belonging to the Princes right and authority the controuersies of Coiners of the Church of the Prouince and of Cities among themselues and with others and appeales from Magistrates and ratifying the Princes pardons for crimes The Counsell consists of a President of a Knightly degree by vertue of his office eight Counsellors hauing yeerly stipends foure Commissaries hauing part of the profit by informations and for Assessors the Procurator the Aduocate of the Prince the Treasurer of the reuenues a Secretary and a Notary Besides these courts and this said Counsell Marchantius mentioneth a court of Iustice highest and without appeale ouer all Netherland instituted by Charles last Duke of Burgandy in the yeere 1473 at Mechlin as being in the Center of Netherland and it iudgeth after that is equall and good in imitation of the Parliament of Paris so as suiters needed not to follow the Earles Court And the Prince was chiefe head of this Counsell or in his absence the Chancellor he being not present the Bishop of Tornay with two Presidents ten Lay and nine Clergy Counsellors six Masters of Requests who were commanded to ride on horseback to the Senate clad in Purple But Mary the daughter of the said Charles fearing the French and Ciuill war commanded the ceasing of iudgement in this Court which Phillip her son restored and in the yeere 1493 reestablished that court at Mechlin but lesse and more weake as it still remaines And this shall suffice of the Magistrates belonging to the Princes affaires Others belong to the subiects in seuerall Countries and Cities Such are the Scabines and the Bailies Scabines are so called of a German word Schaffen that is to dispatch or of an Hebrew word as the Germans say These defend the rights and priuiledges of the people determine controuersies by the Statutes and municipall customes or for want of them by the written Law and are present when any are tortured and iudge capitall causes the pardoning whereof is rather permitted to the Prince then much vsed by him And these Magistrates are diuersly named in diuers places as Voegte Tutor Portmeister Officer of the Port or Hauen Lanthouder that is Keeper of the Land Kourcher that is chosen Lord and Burgermaster that is Master of the Citizens Vnder them are the Treasurers or Receiuers in each City and aswell they as the Scabines are chosen by the Commissaries of the Prince Next are the Baylies so called of a French word as Tutors and Keepers and they are diuersly called in diuers places namely Schuldheten as Iudges of debts and they differ from the Scabines in that the Scabines Iudge the Bailies execute their Iudgements and the Princes Edicts they haue stipend these are paid out of the Fines they are changed after one or two yeeres these continue long in Office lastly they respect the rights of the people these of the Prince In the Villages they haue Officers called 〈◊〉 who 〈◊〉 the Edicts of the Magistrate and warne Debters to make payment and vpon longer delay then is permitted by the Municipall Lawes sell their goods at the outery They haue a supreme Iudge of capitall causes whom they call Soueraigne Baily instituted in the yeere 1374 to apprehend murtherers and banished men and to put them to death or otherwise punish them with the assistance of two Gentlemen hauing fees or being Feodatory Clients to the Prince And to this Officer authority was lately giuen confirmed by the Emperor Charles the fifth to release banishment and for the eues and man slayers by chance or vpon their owne defence and like offenders vpon satisfaction made to the next Kinsman of the man-killer and to him that was robbed not onely to giue them safe conduct to passe for forty daies but also to pardon their crimes so as the Mulcts or Fines be gathered for the Prince not to his behoofe and the Counsell of Flanders approue the confessions of the offender to be true But in case the Magistrate of the place where the offender dwelt require him to be there tried it cannot be withstood And this Office is of such dignity as Knights for long time haue executed the same Many Tributes were of old granted to the Prince as perpetuall Tributes of the Fields of Corne Oates Cheese and Larde which things for foode haue long time beene redeemed with money the price being yeerely set diuersly by the Counsell of accounts seated at Lile And no doubt through troubles and ciuill warres from the beginning to this day all like burthens are greatly increased both in number and measure which may more easily bee coniectured by that which shal be said of this subiect in the discourse of the vnited Prouinces Flanders is most ruled by municipall Lawes and customes of Townes and Cities and for want of them by the Ciuill Lawes The Lawes of Flanders forbid any man to giue in Legacies by his last Will and Testament more then the thirds of his goods wherein are comprehended Lands in Fee or that any stranger should beare the office of Magistracy yet strangers may there inherite their Kinsmens goods contrary to the custome of France England and Scotland where the Kings haue the goods of all strangers dying intestate and hauing there no children In Flanders no man is depriued of his mothers inheritance for bastardy no not the children of a noble woman being a concubine except some municipall Statute made by the Princes doe in some places preiudice them The Citizens of Curtrae about the yeere 1557 and those of Ghant some sixe yeeres after haue excluded those who are borne in adultery or incest from their mothers inheritance but the prouinciall Counsell of Flanders in the yeere 1532 gaue sentence that a Bastard should succeed in the see of his mother with