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A65012 The travels of Sig. Pietro della Valle, a noble Roman, into East-India and Arabia Deserta in which, the several countries, together with the customs, manners, traffique, and rites both religious and civil, of those Oriental princes and nations, are faithfully described : in familiar letters to his friend Signior Mario Schipano : whereunto is added a relation of Sir Thomas Roe's Voyage into the East-Indies.; Viaggi. Part 3. English Della Valle, Pietro, 1586-1652.; Roe, Thomas, Sir, 1581?-1644.; Havers, G. (George) 1665 (1665) Wing V47; ESTC R7903 493,251 479

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the Persian shore that it was out of sight yet we found no more water than about ten fathom and indeed we were fain to sail when the wind arose with plummet constantly in hand by reason of the shallow which are hereabouts March the eighth We sailed still out of sight of land yet had but four fathom of water and because the shallow is equal in this place for a great way together the Persian Pilots call it Meidan that is the Plain The next day we sailed a little but most of the day lay at Anchor because the Pilots could not find the mouth of the River of Bassora although it seem'd to us to be very near and indeed 't is no easie matter to find it the shore being so low that it is not discerned unless very near hand and to approach so near the shore as to discern the River is not safe by reason of the shallows March the eleventh In seeking the mouth of the River opinions were so various and consequently the Ship governed with such confusion that the rudder strook on ground not without some danger but at length with much diligence we freed the Ship and got into more water the Ship of Ciaul which as lighter drew less water going before us as guide and entring into the River's mouth before we knew it The River of Bassora which is Euphrates and Tygris joyned together is call'd by the Arabians Sciat d' Arab that is the Arabian River and falls into the Sea with two great Mouths about twelve Leagues distant one from the other The most Easterly which is the biggest and securest lyes on the side of Ormuz and Persia whose name it borrows The more Westerly and less frequented by great Ships lyes on the side of Buhhreim or Cutifu of Arabia from whence it assumes a name And because the division of the River into two Branches happens within the land a little below Bassora I know not how many leagues from the Sea hence it forms a no small Trianguler Iland called at this day Cheder which I hold to be the gift of the River like the Delta of Egypt and that it will increase every day by the sand brought down by the River considering the many flats and shallows which as I said above are found in these places Now we being entred by the Eastern mouth and having sailed a good way against the stream at length came to the place of the division and leaving the more Westerly branch on the left hand continued our course amongst the verdures of Date-trees and cultivated Fields which on both sides the River down to the Sea are very fertile At length we came to the place from whence up to the City of Bassora which lies on the west bank a good way from the River is drawn an artificial Dike capable even of Portugal Galliots which pass up to the Dogana or Custom-house where a bridg of planks laid upon boats and fortified with Iron chains crosseth the Dike on the South-part of which bridg stands a Castle and strong Bulwark for guard of the City and passage The water of this trench ebbs and flows with the Sea and at high Tide runs up I known not how far beyond the bridg yet Ships go no further then the bridg where they ride as in a secure Haven From this trench are derived some other little channels on either side to several places of the City and in some of them they make use of small Boats which they call Done● with great convenience to the houses besides that they want not little bridges upon the said channels to walk over on foot The City of Bassora is large and populous but ill built and till of late without walls for by reason of these wars with the Persians they have almost inclosed it with an earthen Rampart within which is the Bazar of Goldsmiths and for linnen Cloth and all the best things that are sold. Before the Castle is an indifferent large Piazza where there are some great Pieces of Ordnance amongst which we saw certain Portugal Pieces which had been taken many years ago by the Turks of Bassora from Mascat when they infested the seas with their Galleys which afterwards were destroy'd by the Portugals Another Piazza there is before the Basha's House which is always full of heaps of Corn Rice and other Fruits which are to be sold here being kept night and day without other shops or inclosure then ordinary mats without fear of stealing in regard of the strict justice exercis'd by the Turks in matter of Theft The people are Arabians with some Turks intermix'd so that the Arabian Language is most spoken although the Turkish and Persian are not unfrequent As for Religion the Moors are partly Sonai's and partly Scinai's with Liberty of Conscience to both yet in the Meschita's the Service is after the manner of the Sonai's and also all publick Ceremonies are perform'd after the Rite of the Sonai's which is that which the Great Turk who is King of this Country observes at Constantinople There are also some Houses of Chaldean Christians call'd Christians of S. John or Sabeans though I believe they have little more besides the name of Christians for they have no Church except the House of one single Priest who was there in my time and he a very Idiot nor could I learn that they ever assembled there to be present at any Divine Service They have no Fast or abstinence from Flesh but eat every day alike Nor have they any Sacraments except some shadow of them and 't is a question whether their Baptism be such as it ought to be and not rather the Baptism of S. John then of Christ. And because in this and many other things they observe S. John Baptist more then any other and have him in greatest Veneration therefore they are call'd Christians of S. John with no small suspition of being the remainder of those Jews whom S. John baptiz'd with the Baptism of Repentance and who without caring for any thing else have continu'd in that Rite ever since The Gospels and other sacred Books 't is not known at least in Bassora that they have or use but they have a Book which they call Sidra according whereunto they govern themselves in matters of Religion but who is the Author of it I know not They speak a harsh Chaldee besides Arabick which is generally in use which Language of theirs they call Mendai as also for the most part amongst themselves they are styl'd Mendai besides the two other names of Christians of S. John and Sabeans by the first of which they are known to us Europaeans and by the latter to the Moors What Mendai signifies and whence it is deriv'd I could not learn They have also particular Characters different from the ordinary Chaldaick and Syrian both ancient and modern wherewith they transcribe their sacred Books but commonly none can either read or write this character besides the Priest who
most and which I thought worthy of great praise and imitation there was no day but at that hour twenty or thirty mariners masters boys young men and of all sorts came upon the deck to make the same observation some with Astrolabes others with Cross-staffs and others with several other instruments particularly with one which they told me was lately invented by one David and from his name call'd David's staff This Instrument consists of two Triangles united together one longer then the other both having their base arch'd and between them in the circle of their bases containing an intire quadrant of ninty degrees But whereas the shortest Triangle whose Angles are less acute contains sixty degrees divided by tens according to custom in the circle of its base which are two thirds of a quadrant the other longer and of acuter Angles which extends much backward and opens in a wider circle at the base comprehends no more then thirty which make the remainder of the quadrant so that the longer Triangle contains fewer degrees by half then the shorter and he that would have the degrees larger for the better subdividing them into minutes may make the circle or base of the lesser Triangle take up seventy degrees and so there will remain to the longer no more then twenty for the complement of the quadrant According to this distribution the degrees in the longer Triangle will come to be so large as to be capable of the smallest division of minutes a thing very important Besides it hath two Fanes or Sights in each Triangle one which are to be mov'd backward and forward and with these that is with that of the long Triangle the level of the Horizon is taken and with the other of the short Triangle that of the Sun with this further conveniency that the Sights being sufficiently large are therefore very expedient for performing the operation with speed notwithstanding the dancing of the ship when the Sea is rough in which case if the Sights be too small 't is hard to make any observation With this Instrument and several others many of the English perform'd their operations every day such as knew not how to do them well were instructed and if any one err'd in computation or otherwise his error was shew'd him and the reason told him that so he might be train'd to work exactly The opinion of the skilful was heard and taken notice of and at length all the observations being compar'd together the Pilot and the Captain resolv'd and with mature counsel determin'd of all by which means their voyages are very well manag'd and almost always succeed prosperously to them In the Portugal ships I hear the contrary comes to pass because the Pilots being extremely jealous of their affairs an habitual humour of that Nation will be alone to make their observations and for the most part perform them in secret without any Associate to see them Should any other person in the ship offer to take the altitude of the Sun or look upon the Map or Compass or do any thing that relates to the well guiding of the Vessel and knowing its course they would quarrel with him and by no means suffer him to do it being averse that any other should meddle with what they say is their office and belongs to them alone From their being so little communicative and very averse to teach others it happens that few amongst them understand any thing of the Art of Navigation there being none that will teach it experimentally and they understand little enough because they have no conference about the practical part and learn much less of the Theory This is the reason that their ships frequently miscarry to the incredible detriment both of particular persons and of the Kingdom And which is worse 't is said that not onely many of them are lost through the ignorance or negligence of those that guide them but also sometime by malice For the Portugal Pilots have got a custom when they are to make a Voyage to take up great sums of money at Lisbon upon interest the most they can get to trade withall and they take the same by way of Venture upon the ships which they guide Now when by the way any small disaster befalls them they not onely avoid it not as many times they might do but if they be of evil intention they cunningly run the ships aground either in these Coasts of Africa or elsewhere so that though oftentimes the people and also the arms goods especially of the greatest value be sav'd yet so it is that sometimes many perish or suffer excessive loss and this onely to the end that the shipwrack may be the occasion of their remaining gainers of the monies taken up at interest upon the hazard aforesaid which monies they carry not with them to trade withall but leave all at home in Portugal A practice indeed very pernicious and which ought to be most rigorously punish'd but the Portugals have now no King in their Country to mind their affairs and the government depends upon Madrid where perhaps they that administer it being more intent upon their private interests then the publick these and infinite other disorders pass unredress'd The English on the contrary and other Europaeans which sail upon the Ocean are most diligent and strict observers of all exact discipline and of what concernes the good conduct of their ships and because they well understand all the most exquisite points of Navigation and are extremely curious as well in the Practice as in the Theory they spare no pains and neglect not the doing of any thing whereby they may render their Navigations in all places more easie and secure Insomuch that Captain Woodcock upon occasion of his having staid a year and odd moneths with his ship in the Persian Gulph shew'd me a Chart or Plat-form of the whole Streight of Ormuz made by himself during that time with the highest exactness for he had not onely taken the most just measures and distances of all the adjacent places but also sounded all the Coast with a plummet to find all the convenient places where great ships such as theirs might ride and cast anchor when occasion should require On the Third of February conceiving by our reckoning that we were near India in the Evening we let down the plummet into the Sea as we us'd often to do and found it not above seventeen fathom whereby 't was concluded that we were little more then six leagues distant from land although by reason of the darkness of the Air none could be yet discern'd because that precise depth of water uses to be found in those Seas at that distance from land The Captain who by well observing the Sun and the Winds had every day diligently noted the ships way in the Map as the custom is hop'd that we might be near the City of Daman which lies within the Gulph of Cambaia on the right hand as you enter into
it a good way inwards but I without having so much minded the Maps said that I conceiv'd we were much lower and more without the Gulph towards Bassain because although we had always sail'd and kept the ships prow directed to Daman by the shortest line yet for the two or three last dayes we had had the Wind for that place contrary which although it hinder'd us not from holding our course because we help'd our selves with the rudder and siding of the sails yet the violence of the Wind must needs have continually driven the ship something lower then we intended Two hours after midnight the current of the Gulph of Cambaia being contrary against which by reason of its impetuosness there is no sailing for a while but the ship must stay either for the turning of it which is known when it will happen because it regularly changes according to the hours and days of the Moon or for a strong Wind wherewith to master the current for this reason and also that the day-light might resolve us in what place we were we cast anchor and struk sail to wait for a more fitting time The Sea in this place began to be very rough which happens by reason of the strong current which it hath The next Morning we discern'd land afar off and according to my conjecture it appear'd that we were lower that is more to the South of Daman about twelve leagues in a place a little distant from Bassain which the English call Terra di San Giovanni but in the Sea-Chart is noted in the Portugal Tongue with the name of Ilhas das vaccas or the Islands of Cows About one a clock in the Afternoon the Tide being become less contrary we set sail again by degrees approaching still nearer the shore of India But a little before Night the current turning against us we were constrain'd to cast anchor once more nevertheless after midnight it became favourable again and we sail'd onwards by degrees till day This slow course through the Gulph of Cambaia with the plummet always in hand and sounding every hour it was requisite for us to hold because the place is dangerous in regard of the many shelves or quick-sands which are in it and especially because the current which turns every six hours now setting one way and anon the other causes great hindrance By reason of which shelves from the time of our entrance into the Gulph we did not guide the ship directly towards Suràt which no doubt would have been the shortest way by a strait line but keeping lower towards Daman fetch'd a large compass to the South tacking about afterwards to the North when we were near land onely to avoid the many shelves and shallows through which our great ships could not pass On Sunday the the fifth of February being at anchor in the Morning we discover'd near the land which was not very far from us ten or fifteen Frigots or Galliots sailing Eastwards which probably were either Portugal or Indian Merchants of some Cafila as they call a Fleet or Consort of ships coming from Cambaia to go to Goa or some other place thereabouts The night following we heard the report of Artillery which we conceiv'd to come from the City of Daman being the place nearest us Wednesday night after the Wind blew somewhat hard against us in regard whereof and the strength of the current which carry'd us in that narrow channel amongst shelves and quick-sands we sail'd for a good while very circumspectly and not without some danger On Thursday we stood right against the mouth of the River of Suràt which City is not situate upon the shore but some leagues within land And because there is no station there for great ships we continued sailing Northwards to the place where is the Port most frequented by the ships of Europe which though the best of all that Coast yet the Vessels of that Country not knowing so well how to steer make not much use of it because the entrance is a little difficult On Fryday the tenth of February in the Afternoon the favour of the current failing us we cast anchor in sight of the Port of Suràt at a little distance and our boat going a shore the President of the English Merchants who uses to reside in Suràt and is superintendent of all their Trade in East-India Persia with the other places depending on the same is now one Mr. Thomas Rastel perceiving our ships near and being at that time at the Sea-side near the landing place came in our boat to the ships together with one of their Ministers so they call those who exercise the office of Priests and two other Merchants and after a collation and a supper lodg'd with us all night He spoke Italian very well and made me many civil offers and complements shewing himself in all things a a person sufficiently accomplish'd and of generous deportment according as his gentile and graceful aspect bespoke him He inform'd me that Sig r Alberto di Scilling a German Gentleman known to me in Persia having return'd from the Court of the Moghol and other parts of India which he had travell'd to see was at that time in Surat from whence he was gone to see the City of Barocci hard by and would return speedily with which intelligence I was much pleas'd because Sig Alberto was my great friend and I extremely desir'd to see him On Saturday Morning we convers'd together for some time drinking a little of hot wine boyl'd with Cloves Cinnamon and other spices which the English call burnt wine and use to drink frequently in the Morning to comfort the stomack sipping it by little and little for fear of scalding as they do Cahue Coffee by me elsewhere describ'd And they use it particularly in the Winter to warm themselves though in India 't is not necessary for that end because albeit 't was still Winter according to our division of the seasons yet we had more heat there then cold After this short refection the President return'd a shore and I remain'd in the ship not expecting to disimbarque till we were got into the Harbour which was a little before night and the anchors were cast very near the land but because 't was now late and the City of Surat was a good distance off none of us car'd to land Nor did I go out of the ship on Sunday both because it was a sacred day and because our Captain was pleas'd to give an Entertainment to us and the Captain of the Dolphin our companion in the voyage Monday the thirteenth of the same moneth was the day of my Ague whereof I had had divers fits by the way at sea nevertheless after a collation I went on shore together with the Captain of our ship where we continu'd under certain tents pitch'd for convenience of the Tonnellers so the English term certain of their Mariners imploy'd to fill the Casks with water in expectation of Coaches to carry
parts The Captain of one of the Ships was Sig Ayres de Siqueira Baraccio formerly my Friend at Goa whom I expected that I might return thither in his Ship Whereupon hearing of his Arrival I went to seek him and finding him already landed I understood by him that this Fleet was to go to Calecut in order to carry thither two Men of Samorì King of Calecut Samorì is a Title given to all those Kings like our Emperour or Caesar which Men he had a little before sent to Goa in the same Fleet in another Voyage which it had made upon those Coasts to try the Vice-Roy about a Peace for he had been many years if not at War yet at enmity with the Portugals saying that if the Vice-Roy inclin'd to Peace he would afterwards send Ambassadors with more solemnity and treat of Articles Now these Men were returning to Calecut with the Vice-Roy's Answer and as Sig Ayres said the Fleet would depart from Mangalòr the same night yet would return very shortly because the General had Orders not to stay at Calecut above four and twenty hours onely till he had landed these Men and understood what Resolution the Samorì gave in Answer without giving him more time to think thereupon That in their return the Fleet would touch at Mangalòr and all the other Ports of that Coast to take with them the Merchants Ships laden with Rice which were now prepar'd or a preparing and convoy them according to their custom to Goa where by reason of scarcity of provision they were much desir'd Hearing this News I was loath to lose the opportunity of seeing Calecut the King whereof is one of the most famous among the Gentile Princes of India and is likely to be at Peace but a little while with the Portugals and therefore resolved to go aboard the Ship of Sig Ayres the same day putting off my Journey to Carnate whither I had hopes to go at my return Accordingly dismissing the Palanchino and the Men that were to carry me together with the Servant I had taken at Barselòr because he was not willing to go further with me I went aboard alone without any Servant assuring my self I could not want attendance and what-ever else was needful in the Ship wherein I found Sig Manoel Leyton Son of Sig Gio Fernandez Leyton embarqu'd as a Souldier which course of life he was now first enter'd upon besides many other eminent Souldiers who were afterwards very friendly to me and with whom I spent many days in good conversation December the nineteenth We departed from Mangalòr and went formost of all because our Ship was Captain of the Vanguard This day we pass'd by a high Hill discover'd within Land call'd Monte Delì and the next day December the twentieth by another call'd Monte Fermoso At night we anchor'd under Cananòr but enter'd not the Port having sail'd from Mangalòr hither always Southwards eighteen Leagues December the one and twentieth Once in the Morning and once in the Evening we met with Paroes which are very light Ships of the Malabar Rovers of whom this Coast was full for at Mangalòr ends the Province of Canarà and that of Malabar begins We made ready our Arms both times to fight them but they fled from us and recover'd the mouths of the Rivers whereof that Coast is full where by reason it was their own Territory and well guarded in those narrow and difficult places we could not pursue them to take them onely we discharg'd some Guns against them at distance to no purpose which were answer'd from that Land with the like we might easily have attempted if not to take that which we saw in the Evening yet at least to shatter it a far off with our Cannon if the General had not had regard to the Land they recover'd which belong'd to the Samorì to whom upon account of the Peace in agitation he was willing to have respect At night we came to Anchor under Calecut which is twelve Leagues Southwards beyond Cananòr December the two and twentieth Early in the Morning the Samorì's two Men landed at Calecut and with them a Portugal common Souldier but well clad and attended whom the General sent to the King with the Vice-Roy's Answer which was That the Vice-Roy was contented to treat of a Peace and would gladly conclude it but on condition that the Samorì made Peace too with the King of Cocin the Portugals Confederate whom it was not fit to leave out of the said Peace and the rather because the greatest differences between the Portugals and the Samorì were touching the King of Cocin whom the Portugals justly defended as their faithful Friend and had alwayes to the dammage of the Samorì his perpetual Adversary much supported That if the Samorì were contented to make Peace with both he should send his Ambassadors to Goa with power to treat of the conditions and they should be receiv'd very well Within a short time the Portugal return'd to the Fleet for the City of Calecut stands upon the shore and the Samorì's Royal Palace is not far off And together with the Portugal the Samorì sent to the General a Portugal Boy eight or ten years old call'd Cicco who in certain Revolutions of Cananòr had been taken Prisoner and was brought up in his Court he sent him well cloth'd and accompany'd not onely with many persons but also with Pipes and Drums that he might visit the General in his Name and give him a Present of Refreshments to eat namely Indian Figgs Lagne and other fruits His Answer to the business was that the Peace should be first made between himself and the Portugals and afterwards the Interests of the King of Cocin should be taken into consideration withall desiring the General that he would vouchsafe to stay a while till he had better advis'd with his Ministers and deliberated about sending Ambassadors to Goa in the same Fleet with other Reasons which were judg'd rather excuses to put off the time and hold the Portugals in a Treaty of Peace till some very rich Ships of his which he expected from Meccha were return'd left the Portugals should molest them at Sea than real intentions for a Peace especially with the King of Cocin with whom he hath long and intricate discords not so easily to be terminated The Portugals also demanded that the Samorì would remove a Garrison which he had plac'd in certain Confines where they for their own security and the defence of the King of Cocin were fain to keep a Fort continually with a great Garrison and at much expence And because he shew'd not much inclination thereunto it was not without cause judg'd that his Treaties were Artifices to hold the Portugals in suspence wherefore the General sent him word That he had express Order from the Vice-Roy not to stay longer at Calecut then twenty four hours and so long he would stay If within that time the Samorì took a Resolution sutable to the Vice-Roy's
Jesuits in Sicily in a Church call'd Our Lady delle Gratie I went to see the Capuchins Church the Streets of the City the Castle and whatever was remarkable which was very little January the sixteenth The weather continuing foul with snow the Captains upon consultation resolv'd to return back to Syracuse because the Galleys had not provision enough for a longer stay Wherefore after dinner we set sail back again and arriv'd before night at Syracuse whereof the Bishop being advertis'd sent Sig Paolo Faraone to fetch me and Sig Maria to conduct my women to his House January the nineteenth The weather becoming good the General sent us sudden notice that he would depart immediately as accordingly we did and at night enter'd the Port of Augusta because it was again become somewhat tempestuous The next Evening we departed from Augusta and sail'd all night with a bad wind which forc't us to make use of our Oars January the twenty first At day-break we came before Capo grosso about twenty miles from Messina and continuing our course arriv'd at Messina before Noon At the mouth of the Port we were question'd by the Commissioners of Health who were very rigorous here and indeed were to be commended for it since had it not been for the exact diligence of Messina in this matter the present Pestilence of Sicily might easily have infected all Italy for Card. Dona and others that govern'd at Palermo to avoid damnifying that City by loss of Trade have hazarded the safery not only of the whole Kingdom as is manifestly seen but also of all Italy by concealing the Plague of Palermo as much as they could instead of remedying the Infection by such severe and rigorous courses as was fit namely by burning infected Goods and the like yea they rather maintain'd that the Plague was not there when it was there and requir'd prattick to be given them everywhere procuring Orders from Spain for that purpose by which means many other places of Sicily are become infected and the Plague which had fit means been us'd perhaps would soon have been extinguisht hath continu'd above two years and continues still the Orders of the Viceroy and the Court of Spain promoting the spreading thereof in despight of all Only the City of Messina hath the glory of withstanding so great mischief for the publick safety Whilst we were under examination expecting Bills for Prattick against night I advertis'd Sig Francesco Faraone and Sig Don Palmieri di Giovanni my ancient Friends of my coming who in the Evening when Prattick was granted us came with other Gentlemen and Gentlewomen in Coaches to the shore-side to receive me and Sig Maria. After I had taken leave of the General and all the Knights of the Gallies I went ashore and was accompany'd by the said Gentlemen to the House of Sig Francesco Faraone where taking up my Residence I have been visited by most Persons of quality in the City as also Sig Maria hath been by many Ladies we also returning visits to all to whom we owed them January the five and twentieth Sig Don Giov. Bisogni a Cavalier of Messina Cousin to the Bishop of Syracuse and Husband of Donna Margarita Faraone whom I left at Catania with three of her Sons dying at Messina his Son Don Francesco who alone was here at his Father's death according to the custom of this City as soon as his Father expir'd went out of the House leaving it and the Body yet unburi'd to the care of other kinred and retyr'd to the House of Sig Franc. Faraone wherein I lodg as his nearest Kinsman and here he receives condoling visits and remaines till his Father's Body be buri'd and the House purifi'd and fitted with mourning which I mention as a custom not practis'd by us at Rome We have been to see the Bodies of San Placido and other Saints with all the other Reliques of Messina which were shewn us near the High Altar where they are kept very conveniently I have also heard one of the Moral Lectures of Sig Antonio Mazzapinta a Famous Philosopher and Publick Reader in Messina Which Lecture as also many others he read in his Extraordinary House for his own pleasure and that of the Curious Here I arrest my Pen this Letter being the last of my Oriental Voyages If it please God I shall shortly entertain you viva voce in the mean time I commit you to his Providence and kiss your Hands An account of my Arrival and Residence at Naples in the House of Sig Maria Schipano JAnuary the thirtieth Having hir'd two Felluca's for Naples and embarqu'd all our goods with good Bills of Health which in regard of Maani's Body which I carry'd with me were more then necessary and my Friends at Messina had procur'd to my satisfaction in the Morning we set sail from Messina with a good wind being accompany'd to the boat by many Persons of quality of both Sexes from whom we separated with much tenderness We pass'd the Pharo between Caribdis and Scilla the Sea being sufficiently rough though the wind favorable On the left hand at a good distance we left the Island of Strongile Vulcano and other places at night arriving at Trupia where because they refus'd to give us Prattick alledging that this was no Landing-place in these infectious times and that certain Landing-places were appointed for Passage-Vessels upon the Coast of Calabria where alone Prattick was to be had we kept out at Sea all night and pass'd il Pizzo January the one and thirtieth We pass'd by Mantea and other places at noon arriving at Paola where I went ashore A little without the City amongst the little Hills we saw the Church of S. Francis of Paola which is delicately seated amongst goodly Trees and Brooks which run between the Hills We saw the Reliques the Chappel of the Marquis Lord of the place and his Sepulchres the Lime-kiln where S. Francis did a miracle the Fountain and the Grotto wherein he lived with all other things remarkable after which we lodg'd in an Hostery or Inn upon the shore February the first Having heard Mass in a little Church there we left Paola and passing by Scoglio del Marchese and other Islands in the Evening we supp'd at Sea under Belvedere and sailing all night the next day we din'd on Land at Camerota from whence we sail'd and came to an Anchor in the Port of Palinuro which place I beheld with pleasure through the delightfull remembrance of Virgil's Verses which relate the misfortune of the Pilot Palniurus and with-all give immortal fame to the place February the fourth We departed from Palinuro and lodg'd on shore at Acciaruolo where Passengers are notoriously abus'd by being constrain'd to lodg in a lewd Inn there and pay the Host what he pleases to demand who is also to pay the Lord of the place what Rent he desires The next day we pass'd the Gulph of Salerno and bocche di Capri arriving late in the Port