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A63439 The six voyages of John Baptista Tavernier, Baron of Aubonne through Turky, into Persia and the East-Indies, for the space of forty years : giving an account of the present state of those countries, viz. of the religion, government, customs, and commerce of every country, and the figures, weight, and value of the money currant all over Asia : to which is added A new description of the Seraglio / made English by J.P. ; added likewise, A voyage into the Indies, &c. by an English traveller, never before printed ; publish'd by Dr. Daniel Cox; Six voyages de Jean-Baptiste Tavernier. English Tavernier, Jean-Baptiste, 1605-1689.; Phillips, John, 1631-1706.; Cox, Daniel, Dr. 1677 (1677) Wing T255; ESTC R38194 848,815 637

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we had little or no Wind. But the seventh in the Morning the Weather being fair we discover'd Cape Spartivento and the same Wind continuing all that day toward Evening we sail'd in view of other Ilands of Calabria The eighth we found our selves near to Cape Borsano and all the rest of the day we sail'd in view of Cape Stillo and Cape delle Colonne The ninth we made little way But on the tenth in the Morning the Wind coming about to the South we found our selves at the Entry of the Gulf of Venice between Cape St. Mary and the Coast of Greece where the Mountains were cover'd with Snow About ten of the Clock we tack'd to our own Course while the Ships that were bound for Venice and Ancona entred the Gulf. The tenth by Morning we saw two little Islands the one call'd Fauno the other Merlera and were in sight of Corfu About Noon the Wind being at East we kept out at Sea and about Evening abundance of little Birds lighted upon our Cordage of which we caught enow to make a lusty Fricassie We also caught four Falcons Owls and good store of Turtles The eleventh and twelfth the Wind being at East we lay hovering about the Shoar without making any way The fourteenth and fifteenth having the Wind at North-West we were two days without seeing Land yet we caught good store of Birds The sixteenth the same Wind continuing we found our selves near the Island of Zant. From eight in the Morning 'till three in the Afternoon we were becalm'd but then a good brisk West Wind carry'd away all our little Birds The seventeenth and eighteenth we were becalm'd The nineteenth in the Morning the Wind being at North-West we discover'd Cape Gullo between Modon and Coron in the Morea The twentieth with the same Wind that blew fresh we found our selves by Morning within two Cannon-shot of Cape Matapan which is the most Southern Cape of all Europe About Noon the Wind coming full West in three hours we pass'd by the Point of the Island Cerigo The twenty-first in the Morning we discover'd the Islands of Caravi and Falconera on the one side and Cape Schilli on the other hand Two hours after having a fresh Gale at South-West about Evening we were in view of the Island of St. George The twenty-second though the Wind slackn'd yet we made some way for in the Morning we found our selves between the Island of Zea and the Morea near to another Cape delle Colonne afterwards we discover'd the Island of Negropont and doubl'd the Cape three hours after Noon having left sight of the Island of Andros by ten in the Forenoon The twenty-third the Wind blowing fresh all the night by morning we found our selves near the Island of Ipsera At noon we made the Point of the Island of Chio near to the Land and that night we came to an Anchor near the Castle being becalm'd The twenty-fourth the Wind rose at North-West which blew us into the Port of Smyrna The twenty-fifth we went a-shoar having had as quiet a passage as ever I had in my Life for twenty days together CHAP. II. A Continuation of the Author's sixth Voyage as he travel'd from Smyrna to Ispahan WE staid at Smyrna from the twenty-fifth of April to the ninth of June during which time there happ'nd so terrible an Earthquake that I had like to have tumbl'd out of my Bed The Caravan being ready to set out for Tauris I took with me three Armenian Servants besides those that I carry'd out of France to serve me upon the Road. We set out of Smyrna upon Monday the ninth of June at three a Clock in the afternoon The Caravan rendevouz'd at Pont-garbashi three Leagues from the City consisting of six hundred Camels and almost the same number of Horse We set out the next night two hours after midnight As for the Road I shall say nothing only relate some Passages that fell out by the way Being come to Erivan the fourteenth of September we encamp'd in a pleasant green place between the Castle and the old Town for we would not lye in the Inn because we heard that several sick people lodg'd there We staid there two days during which time I resolv'd to wait upon the Kan I found him in a Room made in one of the Arches of the Bridge which is built over the River which I have describ'd already with several Captains and Officers about him when he had ask'd me whence I came and whither I was travelling he caus'd a Glass of Liquor to be fill'd me After that I presented him with a Prospective-Glass six pair of ordinary Spectacles twelve other pair of Spectacles that cast several Reflexions two little Pistols and a Steel to strike Fire made like a Pistol All which pleas'd him extremely well especially the Spectacles for he was sixty years of age Thereupon he commanded a Lamb Wine Fruit and Melons to be carry'd to my Tent and that I should want nothing After that we sate down to Dinner but I observ'd the Kan himself drank no Wine though he press'd me to it The reason was because he was an Agis that is one that had made his Pilgrimage to Mecca for then it is not lawful to drink Wine or any other inebriating Drink After Dinner finding him in a pleasant humour I resolv'd to complain to him of one of the Custom-Officers about an injury he had done me For it is usual with the Customer in this place to op'n the Chests of all the Merchants both Turks and Armenians to the end that if they have any thing of Rarity the Kan of Erivan may see it for many times he buyes what pleases him best to send to the King This Officer would not excuse me for his Custom and therefore at my very first arrival he would have me to op'n my Chests and because I did not do it according to his Orders he ask'd me very rudely why I had not obey'd his Commands I answer'd him as surlily that I would op'n my Chest no where unless it were in the presence of the King and that as for him I knew him not Upon that he threaten'd me that if he did not find my Chests op'n the next day he would op'n them by force thereupon I said no more but bid-him have a care I did not make him repent of what he had done already This was the ground of the Quarrel and I was about to have complain'd to the Kan but his Nephew intreated me for the love I bare him not to say any thing of it and promis'd to send the Customer to me to beg my Pardon which he did and the Customer was forc'd to crave it heartily To avoid the same inconvenience for the future I desir'd the Kan to give me his Pasport to the end I might pass Custom-free through the Territories of his Government which he freely and courteously granted me Come said he and dine with me to morrow and you
situated upon a Cold Sea But Ouffha is a midland Town 500 miles from Cassan which is near the Volga The Kalmukes are accounted good Souldiers being kept in continual Exercise by the Muscovites on the one side the Nagoyans and Cassachy-Horda on the other Their unmarried Women do not only accompany the Men unto the Wars but are said to be little inferiour unto the Men in Skill and Valour shooting almost as strongly and dexterously as the men from whom they cannot be distinguished by their Garb being apparelled and riding much after the same manner Both Men and Women in all their Expeditions seldom carry along with them fewer than 5 or 6 Horses apiece I cannot precisely determine what their Religion is but I do perceive by Converse with them that they have a more favourable opinion of the Christians than of the Mahumetans or of some of their fellow Ethnicks for if I mistake not they are Heathens I not being able to discern among them any Religious Worship excepting some kind of Adoration which they pay unto the Sun and Moon They have a very peculiar kind of Diet for besides Horse-flesh which is a great Dainty they scruple not to eat Snakes Adders Foxes and indeed even Carrion of divers sorts of Creatures such Food as to Europeans would be intollerable even in the greatest Famine They wear a kind of Caps or Hatts which are called by the Muscovites Coulpackes open before and behind with broad Brims on each side And thereupon they are called by the other Tartars Calmukes Eastward from these Calmukes inclining unto the South towards China live the Yurgeachians so named from their chief Town which some call Yurgeach others Jurgench Of which Countrey I cannot say so much as concerning the former having never been therein but once for in the Year 1620. there being great Wars in Jurgeach between the Chan or King and the Myrsa his Son some of the Nagoy Tartars hearing thereof invaded the Countrey who whilst they were united durst not peep out of their own Borders the Jurgeachians being a numerous and warlike People These Nagoys were all Volunteers who went without any Command from their own Prince or Allowance from the Muscovites without whose consent by mutual Agreement they are not permitted to war The news of their Expedition being brought unto Astracan the Voyvod who had not long before made a League with the Jurgeachians sent out Allye I suppose his true Name was Ali or Hali Myrsa a Tartarian Prince with a 1000 of his own Subjects and 500 Russes all Horse We were 20 days marching before we came unto the Borders of Jurgeach from Astracan whence we proceeded 10 days journey the Countrey through which we passed being miserably ravaged by the aforesaid Nagoys At the end of which 30 days by a reasonable Computation 't was judged we were distant from Astracan at least a 1000 miles about which time we overtook them in the Valley of Ougogura having got from the Jurgeachians an innumerable company of Cattle of divers sorts as Horse Kine Camels and Sheep We took all their Booty from them and as a further punishment for their Riot took away their own supernumerary Horses leaving them only a Horse a Man for to convey them home Then Ally Myrsa divided the Spoil half he bestowed upon those who did accompany him and sent the remainder for a Present unto the Voyvod returning nothing unto the Jurgeachians because they were taken from Thieves In the mean while the Prince of Jurgeach in a pitcht Battel overthrew his Father took him Prisoner put out both his Eyes and caused himself to be Crowned King He had a younger Brother whom fearing that in time he might occasion some insurrection he gave Command unto some of his Creatures that they should strangle him and bring his Head But divers of the Nobles by whose means he obtained the Soveraignty gaining intelligence thereof would not permit his Order to be put in execution but seizing on the Child sent him unto the Emperour of Muscovy with whom he re-mained when I was last at Astracan But I must return from the Jurgeachians unto the Caragans whom I have left behind and they do more immediately refer unto my promise which was to give an Account of all the Nations and Countreys incompassing the Caspian Sea The Countrey of the Caragans occupies most of that vast space which intercedes between the River Yeike and the Dominions of the Ousbegs or Tartars of Bouchara and their Territory surrounds the North-East corner of the Caspian Sea proceeding Southwards unto the River Jaxartes and some Hords of the said People do inhabit between the said River and the Oxus which divides the Tartars of Bochara and the Caragans from the Persians and the Tartars of Balk This Countrey of the Caragans is very desart and barren the People miserably poor their Houses are wretched Huts the greatest part under ground they are very tawny and ill-favour'd their Habitations are scatt'red scarcely deserving the Name of Villages And they have no Town as I have been informed besides Preesslannes which is situated on the South-side of the Jaxartes near the Caspian Sea which whilst I dwelt in Astracan was by surprize taken by the Cossacks but they had little cause to brag of their Victory finding little booty therein and the Caragans gath'ring together beat them out with great loss of Men forcing them to retire into an Island 2 or 3 leagues from the Land which they possess unto this day no Nation being able or else not caring to un-nest them although Tartars Persians and Muscovites do continually suffer by their Depredations Towards the East and by South of the Caragans dwell the Tartars of Bochara who are by divers called Yusbegs The Countrey which they possess is better watred and more fertile than most of the preceeding and there is great resort of Merchants from divers Parts unto them especially Persians Muscovites and several Nations of Indians as Moguls Boutans with many others whose Names I cannot recollect I have been also told That the Chineses do sometimes trade with them I am perswaded that this is the famed Kingdom of Cataye for the Catayans are a sort of Tartars and I know no other Tartars between this Countrey and China Caragan lieth from them to the North-West Urgenshe due North China to the East the Tartars of Balk to the South and the Persians South and by West and the Caspian Sea duely West They are almost continually in Wars with the Persians The next Countrey I am to describe is Persia in which Land I was never excepting once in that part thereof which borders upon the Comukes but I have conversed with several Persian Merchants at Astracan who came by Shipping from Gilan which when the Wind is very fair and good they sail in 2 or 3 days and nights They wear Turbants like the Turks and so do the Bouchars Therefore not having seen much of Persia nor having sufficiently informed my self
of his Countrey by his General Chan Timur Myrsa retired unto the Cossacks upon the Nepper and having contracted a Friendship with them and the bordering Russes by their assistance he gathered an Army of 40000 Men and marched towards Crim leaving behind him a revolted Ottoman with a Brigade of 3 or 4000 Men who immediately after the departure of Sultan Shaugary marched directly towards Aslamgorod and early in a Morning surprized the Castle then in the possession of the Turks put every Man in Garrison to the Sword slighted the Walls and other Fortifications retired with the Spoyl and marched to joyn Sultan Shaugary who in the interim arrived near Precop where he was met by Chan Timur and totally defeated but by good fortune escaped and by the way of Astracan got to Persia. From the Nepper we will pass unto Crim with which Countrey I am well acquainted having against my will resided there some years Crim is a small Land so near as I can conjecture 200 miles long and 50 miles broad but is wonderfully populous and exceedingly fruitful abounding with Corn and Grass the only scarcity they have is Wood which grows no where but upon the Sea-Coast from Bakessey Seray unto the Town of Crim which in former times was the chief City All the rest of the Land is a Plain where they have no Wood to burn nor any sort of Fewel but Fissheke Fusshane Curay and Stroa The Land is inclosed with the Sea excepting at two places Precop and Arbotka By Precop there is a narrow passage through which you may go to the Nepper Lithuania or Muscovy through the Desarts of Ingul and Ungul and there is a Water comes from the Teine Sea called the shallow Water and goeth along the Desart until it comes to Precop upon West-side of Crim and by North where it turns back on the North-side of Crim is almost surrounded with Water for the Black Sea is on the one side and the Ratten Sea on the other which latter produces nothing but Salt for it is so salt that no Fish can live therein I have reason to know it because I lived in a Village which was called Seekely Otta Mamutachy The Towns round about Crim on the Sea-side are these Precop Cuslowa Crim Caffa Kerse and Arbotka and within the Land Carasu Ackenesh Messheite and Bakessy Seray The Town of Arbotka lieth on the north-North-East side of Crim between the Black and Ratten Seas which there come so near together that there is no more Land between them than that whereon the Town of Arbotka stands and without Arbotka is a great Field 50 miles long inclosed with Water where the Tartars in Winter do keep their Hergels or Horses which Field goeth to the shallow Waters where I ran away from the Tartars I shall here take my leave of Crim and pass unto the Little Nagoy to Asshowa on the River Don which runs down from Bealla Ossharra through the Country of Russia between Russia and Lithuania until it comes to Peilesboy not far from the Wolga for from Peilesboy to the River Camusshanka is not above 20 miles all level which is called Perewolog where the Cossacks do draw their Strukes or Boats upon Wheels to the River of Camusshanka by which they pass into the Volga whereupon this Place is called Perewolog The Don runs down between the Little Nagoy and the Desarts of Ingel and Ungule so to Asshowa right under the Town and there falls into the Tein Sea This River is full of Fish especially Sturgeons well inhabited by Cossacks for there are seldom less than 10000 upon it besides those that go on Freebooting There are also 16 Gorodkees or strong Skonces well manned and with store of great Guns they being in continual fear of the Turks and Tartars and sometimes also of the Muscovites The Little Nagoy lies between the Tein and Caspian Seas the former on the West the latter on the East Shercassen to South and the Volga on the North and there is never a Town in all this Countrey excepting Asshowa It is inhabited by Tartars who go altogether in Hords their Prince in my Time was Cassay Myrsa whom the Tartars call also Sultan Ulugh or the Great Prince They sowe no Corn but Pross which they sowe upon the Sea-side up unto Asshowa and after sowing they depart with their Hords and graze up and down the Desarts to the Don to Capbane Shurpoha Yedecul Comma and Curray to Masshargorodoke and to Shercassen Land under the Rivers Terigke and Balke and almost to Pettigor and by the River of Cupba and back again unto the Black Sea Thus they ramble all the Summer until their Harvest be ripe and their Pross gathered and put into Yams under ground after which they settle from Asshowa all along the Sea-side amongst the Reeds and leave their Horses to winter in the Desarts So I shall leave the Little Nagoy and pass unto Temerassa in Shercassen Land which is 500 miles from Asshowa Now in all Circassia are but two Towns Temerossa on the Black Sea upon the Gulf that goeth from the Black Sea into the Tein Sea right over against Arbotka The other is Tumein upon the Caspian Sea the distance between them being 1100 miles and all the rest of the inhabited Places are only Cubbacks made in the Woods piled round with Timber Their Houses are very high in the midst whereof they make the Fire Their Men are proper Men very like the Irish both for person and garb for they go in Trowses with short Mantles wear long Hair on both sides of their Heads with a shorn Crown between Their Women are very beautiful and loving to Strangers for if a Stranger come unto their Houses their young Women and Maidens will look Lice in their Shirts and all about them the most private parts not excepted and will allow them the liberty to examine and handle all parts of their Bodies besides their Breasts The Circassians are excellent Horsemen and very couragious but withal exceedingly ignorant and superstitious for when they kill a Goat or Kid they cut off the privy parts and cast it against a Wall if it stick they pray to it if otherwise they cast it away and spread the Skin upon Stakes place it in their Corn-fields and worship it They have no Writing among them yet pretend to be good Christians Do strangely bewail the Dead making great Cryes scratch their Hands and Faces until they draw much Blood knock their Foreheads against the ground until Knobs arise bigger than Plums The Men are notorious Thieves stealing from each other and he that steals most is accounted the bravest Fellow Their Countrey is very fruitful abounding with most sorts of Grain and they have store of excellent Grass They have also much Fruit growing wild many sorts of Beasts as Harts Hinds Kine Eissubrass Hogs and great Adders The considerable Rivers which I know are Cubba which runs from Pettigor between Shercassen Land and the Little Nagoy betwixt
Japan and in all the Ilands of the East like Latin in Europe not reck'ning the little Moresco or Gibbrish of the Country So that it is a difficult thing to observe what is talk'd in one Company where the Discourse begins in one Language is pursu'd in another and finish'd in a third and for the Turks and Armenians they never speak above three or four Languages at most Now to shew you the Civility of the Persians the Master of the Ceremonies came to the Ambassador and told him that if he did not like the Cookery of the Persians he had Order from the Atemadoulet who is as the Grand Vizier in Turkie to offer him Money instead of Diet to the end he might dress his own Meat as he pleas'd himself Upon which the covetous Ambassador accepted his offer and two hours after there was a Bag brought him of 50 Tomans which amount to about 800 Crowns The Franks being offended at his baseness slighted the Ambassador and left him to keep House by himself which was poor enough God knows an Onion or a Turnep serving his turn for a Meal Some days after he had Audience of the King to whom he presented his Letters Credential from the Pope the Emperour the King of Poland and the Commonwealth of Venice Those from the three last were well receiv'd because the Seals were of Gold and for that the Paper was embelish'd with curious Flourishes but the Pope's Letters were rejected with scorn because the Seals were only of Lead as the Bulls are usually seal'd and for that the Writing was very plain For the Kings of Persia who are very nice love things that are gay to the Eye otherwise they look upon themselves to be affronted Dominico de Santis had better have tak'n upon him the meaner quality of an Envoy than the title of an Ambassador unless he had known better how to behave himself especially being so eclips'd as he was by a real Ambassador that arriv'd at Ispahan some time after All the Franks went forth to meet him and the Master of the Ceremonies made him the same proffers as he had done to the Venetian but he nobly answer'd That whatever it were that the King of Persia sent him he should take it for a very great Honour otherwise if he would have eaten Gold the King his Master would have allow'd him 30 Mules Load Such persons as behave themselves with decency and a good grace are the persons that the Christian Princes should send into Persia who are the most refin'd Wits and the best Politicians of all Asia To conclude the Story of the Venetian I will give you his Character An Indian naturally of a good Wit having embrac'd Christianity and an Ecclesiastical Life went to Rome to complete his Studies which he had begun at Goa whither the Pope taking an affection to him sent him afterward as his Vicar Dominico de Santis being then at Rome put himself into his service and follow'd him into the Indies where I saw him the first time I went in a mean condition Upon his return to Venice where he was in no credit before he made people believe that he understood the Trade of Asia whereupon some particular Merchants trusted him with some Goods which were cast away at Seide Thus poor and bare he return'd to Goa where he got 800 Crowns by a charitable Contribution From thence he travel'd to Ispahan where he fell into the acquaintance of Father Rigordi a Jesoite with whom he went into Poland where making his brags of the great knowledge he had of the Affairs of Persia the King gave him that Commission which I have already mention'd The Emperour follow'd his Example and the Commonwealth of Venice did the same and to give the more lustre and authority to his Embassy they got the Pope to joyn with them But alas both Dominico de Santis and all such persons as he that go into Asia without Brains and good Behaviour do out prostitute the Reputation of the Princes that send them Such another was Father Rigordi who after he had been thrust out of Goa by the Portugals went to Ispahan where he insinuated himself by a Proposition which he made of Marrying the King of Persia who was then a very young Prince to the Dutchess of Orleanoe Under which pretence he was well receiv'd and treated by the King from whom he also recerv'd some Presents by virtue of that Proposal which was good sport to the Dutchess when she heard of it As for the Venetian the Atemudoulet who was very glad to be rid of him desir'd the Muscovite Ambassador who was then upon his return home to take him along with him which he did as far as the Caspian Sea where they take Shipping for Astracan but there the Muscovite told him he could carry him no further thereupon he was forc'd to come back to Ispahan and so to travel to Goa whence the Portugals shipt thim home for Charities sake But when he came to Venice has was so far from being well receiv'd that the Senate had like to have punish'd him severely for giving so bad an account of his Negotiation CHAP. VI. Of the Road which the Author kept when he Travell'd the fourth time into Asia to go from Paris to Ormus And first of his Voyage from Marseilles to Alexandretta ISet out from Paris in the company of Monsieur d'Ardiliere the eighteenth of June 1651. and arriv'd at Marseilles the sixteenth of July On the twenty-sixth of August we set Sail with a favourable North-West Wind that blew very briskly the two next days but at length it grew so very slack that coming about to the North. north-North-East we made for Sardinia Upon the second of September by Sun-rising we discover'd the Western Coast of Sardinia six Leagues from the Land About Noon the Wind chopping about again to the North-West we held on our first Course and upon the third of September we descry'd the Island Galita upon the Coast of Africa On the fourth we discover'd the Island of Zambino before Tunis and about Evening Cape Bon which is the most Southerly Point of all Africa The fifth we had a sight of the Island of Pantalaria and the Coast of Sicily The sixth we discover'd the Island of Goza and the seventh the Castle that bears the same name We landed at Malta upon the day of the Nativity of the Virgin which is a great day among the Maltesi upon which they give thanks to God for that the Turks rais'd their Siege upon that day The Grand-Master goes to the Church of St. John accompany'd with all the chief Commanders in their Robes of Command and the greatest part of the Knights All the Country-men and Citizens are up in Arms upon that day and march to the Inn call'd the Auvernian-house with the Knight that goes to fetch the Standard This Knight is clad in a Cassock of Crimson-Velvet with a Cross of the Order before and behind He wears a
Helmet upon his head and carries the Standard upon his shoulders and by him marches the Grand-Master's Page who carries a Sword in one hand and a Dagger in the other both very richly Embellish'd and giv'n to the Order by CHARLES the fifth The Page that carry'd the Sword and Dagger was the youngest Nephew of Pope Innocent the tenth The Souldiers and Citizens marching before to the Church door make a Lane for the Knight and the Page to pass on to the Altar where the Knight makes three bows and having done as much to the Grand-Master places himself on the right hand of the Grand-Masters Chair and the Page on the left Then the Mass and the Musick begins and while the Gospel is reading the Grand-Master takes the Sword and the Dagger out of the Page's hand and holds them with the points upward all the remaining part of the Mass. During the Elevation of the Host the Knights repeats the same Ceremony as at the beginning and then the Bells ring the great Guns go off and the Souldiers give three Vollies Mass being ended the Grand-Master retires accompany'd as before only that he is then attended by all the Ecclesiastical persons of the City and coming out of the Church he proceeds with all the Infantry marching before him toward our Lady 's of Victory where they all go in procession While they make a stand in that place the Souldiers give another Volley which is answer'd by all the Canons in the Town as also from the Ships and Galleys After that they return to St. John's and the Infantry Guard the Standard back to the Inn while the Grand-Master goes to his Palace The ninth we view'd the Fortifications which are stor'd with very fair pieces of Canon The tenth we saw the Pages perform their Exercises before the Grand-master which are generally vaulting and handling their Arms both Musquet and Pike The elev'nth we view'd the Arsenal where I was assur'd that there were Arms for twenty thousand men being in good order and rarely well look'd after The next day we visited the Infirmery where the sick are serv'd in Plate as well the poor as rich The twentieth we set Sail having the Wind at West-South-West and a fresh gale so that upon the twenty-third we discover'd the Coast of the Morea to which we approach'd so near as to descry Navarin In the Evening we saw the City of Coron where there is a great Trade for Sallet-Oyl From thence it was that the Great Turk Embarqu'd for Candy in the year 1645. The twenty-fourth the Wind was at east-north-East-North-East In the Morning we discover'd the Cape of Matapan which is the most Southern Point of Land in Europe lying in the Morea and at Noon the Iland of Cherigo The twenty-fifth we drew near Cyprus and descry'd a Mountain in that Iland call'd Canteliere with some other Promontories toward the South From the twenty-seventh day 'till we came to Alexandretta we perceiv'd the Sea to be all over cover'd with Pumice-stones which happ'nd from an Earthquake that had for some time before swallow'd up the Iland of Santorini Some think that it proceeded from the abundance of Sulphur of which that Country is full which took Fire and was the death of above 750 of the Ilanders that were partly buried in the Ruines and partly dy'd out of fear They that remain'd alive became black like Charcoal and the Vapours that ascended out of the Abyss fully'd all the Silver as far as Constantinople the noise of the Earthquake being heard as far as Smyrna The twenty-ninth by break of day we discover'd the Iland of Cyprus The first of October by eight in the Morning we came to an Anchor before Salines which is one of the Ports of Cyprus where our Consuls live Here I ask'd several of the Christians of the Country how they did to live and pay their Carage Who told me that it was with a great deal of difficulty in regard the Iland was very bare of Money which was the reason that many Christians turn'd Mahometans to avoid paying their Carage which is a Tribute that the Grand Signor Iayes upon all Christians throughout his Dominions He exacts from the poorest six Piasters a Head but there are some that pay a hundred or a hundred and fifty and this Tribute is due so soon as ever they come to be eighteen years of age The Iland of Cyprus is one of the most considerable in the Mediterranean Sea more to the East than any of the rest bearing the title of a Kingdom as being 500 Miles in circuit It is not all of the same bredth being of a triangular form the sides whereof are very unequal To it there belong several Capes or Promontories the principal whereof are St. Epiphanio toward the West Cape de Gate toward the South Cape Diegrega toward the North-East Cape Cormachiti toward the North and Cape St. Andrew upon the most Eastern Point of the Iland The principal Roads are that of Salines or Larneca that of Paphos and that of Cerines or Cerigni The Haven of Famagosta signifies nothing as to great Ships there being none but small Vessels that can ride there The Venetians had formerly made a small Mole there to harbour their Gallies but it is now quite ruin'd The Road of Cerines is that where the Barks and Galliots lye that come from Caramania and Payasses and where the Basha's land that are sent as Governours of the Iland from Constantinople who reside generally at Nicosia That City is almost in the middle of the Iland and was formerly a very large one as appears by the compass of the ancient Walls The new Walls are well terrass'd within-side and in a good posture of defence There are three Gates belong to the City that of Famagosta that of Paphos and that of Cerines The City it self is no uncomely place the Venetians having adorn'd it with many fair Palaces which the Turks demolish every day out of hopes to find hidd'n Treasure therein and sell the Stones to build new Houses The Cathedral that goes by the name of Santa Sophia is an ample and fair Structure of which the Turks have now made a Mosquee together with one more which was formerly a Monastery belonging to the Austin-Fryars The Greeks have there four Churches and the Franks two that is to say the French Missionary Capuchins and the Italian Missionary Soccolans The first have a Church dedicated to St. James the others another which is call'd Holy Rood Church The Armenians also have another belonging to them which is a very neat Building which was formerly a Monastery of the Carthusians There it is that there is a Tomb adorn'd with several Sculptures of Religious Nunns especially an Abbess with a Cross in her Hand the Writing about the Stone being in French Characters The City is seated in a temperate Air and a fertil Soil abounding with Water It extends more in length than bredth having been anciently nine Miles in compass but
in Trade Sha-Abas who was a man of a great Genius and a person of great undertaking considering that Persia was a barren Country where there was little Trade and by consequence little Money resolv'd to send his Subjects into Europe with raw Silks so to understand whence the best profit would arise to bring Money into his Country To which purpose he resolv'd to make himself Master of all the Silk in his own Country by purchasing it himself at a reasonable rate tax'd by himself and to reap the gains by his Factors and withal thought it necessary to seek an Alliance with the great Kings of Europe to engage them on his side against the Turk He first sent to the King of France Henry the Fourth But he dying before the Ambassador arriv'd answer was made the Ambassador That if the King of Persia had any thing to say to the King of France Lewis the Thirteenth he must send a new Ambassador which was never done Three or four years after he sent an Ambassador to the King of Spain accompany'd with a Persian Merchant of Ispahan putting into their hands a considerable quantity of Bales of Silk He also sent along with them a Portuguez Austin-Friar to be their Guide and Interpreter The Persian Merchant would have sold the Silks as was the King's order and have bought a Present more becoming But the Ambassador over-rul'd by the Friar resolv'd to present the King of Spain with the Bales of Silk The Merchant not able to oppose the Ambassador returns home forthwith to give an account to the King who approv'd his management The Ambassador proceeds and coming to the Spanish Court presents his Bales of Silk to the King who ask'd the Ambassador whether his Master took him for a Woman that he had sent him so many Bales of Silk to spin and immediately sent away the Present to his Queen presenting the Ambassador but very meanly who thereupon seeing the Errour he had committed made hast home but upon his return the Persian King having notice of the ill success of his Negotiation caus'd his Belly to be ript op'n in the publick Market-place About fifteen years after he trusted a considerable quantity of Silk with a Merchant's Son of Ispahan and sent him to Venice who when he came there took a stately Lodging and spent his Money at a strange rate especially among the Courtisans to maintain which expence he continually sold great quantities of Silk The Venetians seeing a private man live so splendidly among them and not believing so great a quantity of Goods could belong to one single Merchant but rather imagining him to be a Factor for some Company who suffer'd for his folly wrote to all the Ports of the Levant and having intelligence who he was the Senate thought fit to seize his Person and his Goods before he had consum'd all at the same time giving a civil account to the King of Persia what they had done To which the Persian King return'd a most obliging Answer of Thanks sending withal an intelligent Persian Merchant to take an account of what was left to whom the Venetians were very punctual As for the Prodigal Persian who thought it not his wisest way to return into Persia what became of him is not material to this Story The Platform of the famous Fortress of Candahar which is the Best Place in all Asia And indeed the Armenians are so much the more fit for Trading because they are a people very sparing and very sober though whether it be their virtue of their avarice I know not For when they are going a long Journey they only make provision of Bisket smoak'd Bufalo's flesh Onions bak'd Butter Flowr Wine and dry'd Fruits They never buy fresh Victuals but when they meet with Lambs or Kids very cheap in the Mountainous Countries nor is there one of them that does not carry his Angle to fish withal when they come to any Ponds or Rivers All these Provisions cost them little the Carriage And when they come to any Town where they are to stay they club five or six together and lye in an empty Chamber which they furnish themselves every one carrying his Mattress his Coverlet and his Kitchin-Instruments which is a great piece of Thrift When they travel into Christendom they carry along with them Saffron Pepper Nutinegs and other Spices which they exchange in the Country-Towns for Bread Wine Butter Cheese Milk-Meats and other Provisions which they buy of the poor Women When they return out of Christendom they bring along with them all sorts of Mercery-ware and Pedlery-ware of Noremberg and Venice as little Looking-glasses trifles of Tin enamel'd false Pearls and other things of that nature which pays for the Victuals they call for among the Country-people In the beginning of their Trade there return'd very few Caravans into Persia without two hundred thousand Crowns in Silver beside English and Dutch Clothes fine Tissues Looking-glasses Venice-Pearls Cochenel and Watches which they thought most proper for the Sale of Persia and India At length those Armenians became so exquisite in Trade that several of them have left Estates of two some twenty thousand Tomans But the richest among them was Cotgia or Monsieur Petrus who left forty thousand Tomans in coyn'd Money besides his Horses Furniture and Lands in the Country his Jewels and Plate all which are never reckon'd a Merchant's Estate but only the ready Cash with which he trades Cotgia Petrus was very much esteem'd for his Charity and the great Church which he built which is a kind of Covent with a Bishop and Monks Nor is the fair Market-place all environ'd with Shops a little beholding to his Generosity The Armenians of Zulpha have this advantage over all the Christians of the East that they enjoy Lands and Priviledges the King not permitting the least injustice to be done them nor that any Mahometan should live at Zulpha They have also the priviledge to be as well clad as the Persians and to make use as they do of Bridles of Gold and Silver Their Wives also are very richly habited in strip'd Sattins purfl'd with Gold and other rich Europaean Silks The King names whom he pleases among the Armenians to be their Chief whom they call Kelonter who judges all their differences and taxes them to make up the Sum which they are to pay to the King every year The Language of the Armenians is either vulgar or learned the learned is only us'd by the Ecclesiasticks in reference to their Religion They write like us from the left to the right having found out peculiar Characters about four years since They have three Languages very natural to them which however are very differente the Armenian which is their ancient Country-speech which they have preserv'd from Father to Son the Persian which is the Language of the Country where they live and the Turkish of which they make very much use in course of Trade As for their Women they
General and his Wife could keep so private a Daughter that was so incomparably fair that it should not come to the Kings knowledg At length he lov'd her so tenderly that not being able to deny her the liberty of Reigning one whole day in his place he gave her leave to share with him afterwards in the Government And she it was that gave motion to all the most important Affairs of State the King excusing himself to the Grandee's of his Court who wonder'd why he let the Queen bear so great a sway by telling them that she was fit for the Government and that it was time for him to take his ease Fig. 1 and 2. is as all the rest are the backside of the Twelve Signs Fig. 1. is the backside of the Ram. and Fig. 2. of Cancer Both of them signifie the same thing it being the Name of the King Queen and City where they were stamp'd These two were coln'd at Amadabat The Gold Silver and Copper Money which the Portugals coin in the East Indies THe Gold which the Portugals Coin in Goa is better than our Louisse's of Gold and weighs one grain more than our half Pistol At the time when I was in Goa this piece was worth four Roupies or six Franks They hold it up at so Portugall Money Muscovie Money high a rate to the end the Merchants who come from all the Coasts of India thither with their Wares may not transport it out of the Countrey This piece is called St. Thomas Formerly when the Portuguez had the Trade of Japon Macassar Sumatra China and Mosambique which they still preserve and is the place whither the Indians bring the Gold of the Abassins and Saba it was a wonderful thing to see the quantity of Gold which the Portuguez Coin'd and the several pieces of workmanship which they fram'd in Gold and sent into Forreign Countreys even to the West-Indies by the way of the Philippine Islands But now they have no other places but only Mosambique to furnish them with Gold they keep up those Pieces called St. Thomass's at a very high rate lest they should be carried out of the Countrey as I said before They have also Silver Pieces which they call Pardos which go for the value of 27 Sous of our Money As also a great quantity of small Copper and Tin-Money not much unlike that of the Kings already mentioned which they thread upon strings in particular numbers The Gold and Silver Money of Muscovy I Have observed in my Relations that in all parts of our Europe where they Coin Money there are great Sums transported all over Asia where they go currantly But for the Money of Muscovy there is great loss in transporting it any where else because the Prince enhances it to so high a value The pieces as well of Gold as Silver are very good Metal for the Gold in worth is somewhat higher than our Lewis Fig. 1 and 2. This piece of Gold weighs 14 Grains and to take the Gold at 48 Grains the Ounce would amount to 20 Sous one Deneer and one half-peny of our Money But going in Muscovy for 24 Sous there would be nineteen and an half loss to transport it any where else Fig. 3 and 4. Is a piece of Silver that weighs eight Grains and to take an Ounce of Silver at three Livres ten Sous it comes to a Sous of our Money But in the Countrey you have but fifty of these pieces or at most sometimes fifty two for one of our Crowns or a Real of Spain or an High-German Rixdollar Fig. 5 and 6. Is a piece of Silver also which only goes in Muscovy But I cannot tell in what Province it is Coin'd in regard there are no Arms upon it and that the most knowing persons to whom I shewed them could not tell me what the Characters meant which makes me think it is very ancient The piece weighs 25 Grains which comes to three of our Sous one Deneer and one half-peny This is all that I could collect of most certainty concerning the Money and Coins of the East during the long course of my Travels Nor do I believe that any person has undertaken before me to write upon the same Subject If any one of my Readers desires to see the real Pieces themselves as well in Gold and Silver as in Tin Copper Shells and Almonds he may without question obtain the Favour from Monsieur the first President to whose Study I devoted them all together with certain Medals of which that Supreme Senator most skilful in Antiquity has great store being still curious in searching after what is rare The end of the Coins TRAVELS IN INDIA The First Book What Roads to take in Travelling from Ispahan to Agra from Agra to Dehly and Gehanabatt where the Great Mogul Resides at present And how to Travel also to the Court of the King of Golconda to the King of Visapour and to many other Places in the Indies CHAP. I. The Road from Ispahan to Agra through Gomron Where is particularly describ'd the manner of Sailing from Ormus to Suratt IN this Relation of my Indian I will observe the same Method as in the Recital of my Persian Travels and begin with the description of the Roads which lead you from Ispahan to Dehly and Gehanadatt where the Great Mogul Resides at present Though the Indies stretch themselves front Persia for the space of above 400 Leagues together from the Ocean to that long Chain of Mountains that runs through the middle of Asia from the East to the West and which was known to Antiquity by the Name of Mount Caucasus or Mount Taurus yet there are not so many ways to travel out of Persia into the Indies as there are to travel out of Turky into Persia by reason that between Persia and the Indies there are nothing but vast Sands and Desarts where there is no water to be found So that you have but two Roads to choose in going from Ispahan to Agra The one is partly by Land and partly by Sea taking Ship at Ormus The other altogether by Land through Candahar The first of these two Roads is amply describ'd as far as Ormus at the end of my first Book of my Persian Travels So that I am now only to speak of the manner of Sailing from Ormus to Suratt There is no Sailing at all times upon the Indian as upon the European Seas You must observe the proper seasons which being elaps'd there is no more venturing The Months of November December January February and March are the only Months in the year to Embark from Ormus to Suratt and from Suratt to Ormus But with this difference that there is no stirring from Suratt after the end of February but you may Sail from Ormus till the end of March or the fifteenth of April For then the Western-winds that bring rain along with them into India begin to blow During the first four Months there blows
Horn who came first aboard us I produc'd my Keys and offer'd my Chests to be open'd But the Zealander more civil than the Horner deliver'd me my Keys again and taking my word told me I was free to take away my goods And indeed I have always observ'd that the Northern people are always more rude and ungentile than the Southern As for the 17500 Florins which the General of Batavia promis'd should be paid me upon my arrival in Holland I receiv'd so many delays and put off's that I was at length forc'd to commence a Suit that lasted above two years nor could I get a publick Notary either at Amsterdam or the Hague that would make me out a Protest every one fearing the Directors who were both Judges and Parties At length after five years wrangling and jangling the Director wrote to my Brother at Batavia for I was then return'd again to the Indies that if I would accept of 10000 Livers he might receive it for me which he did and was forc'd to give them an acquittance for the whole This is the return which I made from the Indies in the year 1649 and the only time that ever I return'd by Sea having perform'd all the rest of my Travels by Land not counting my short Voyages through the Mediterranean for any thing And as for my first Travels I perform'd them all by Land from Paris through Germany and Hungary as far as Constantinople whither I return'd again in the year 1669. From Constantinople I went to Smyrna thence I sail'd for Ligorn from Ligorn I travel'd by Land to Genoa thence to Turin and so to Paris The End THE INDEX TO THE Indian Travels A. ABdoul-Coutou-Sha the present King of Golconda pag. 65. His Children 66. His reply to the Canoneer that would have taken off Aurengzeb's head 68. See Mirgimola Abdul Feta Gelul Eddin Mahomet 107. Aceph Ben Ali takes Mascate from the Dutch 145. His wondrous Pearl ibid. Agra the King's Palace there 48 49. Alegamma Motiar of Ceylan turns Christian and his answer to the Jesuits 163. Amadabat and the Trade thereof 37. Amber where found 151 152. Ambergreese where found 152. Apes their antipathy against the Crows 40. The danger of killing one ibid. Hospitals for them 48. How set together by the ears 94. Asem the Kingdom 187. Asouf-Kan's Policy 112. Assists Sha-Jehan ibid. Ast-Kan 60. Takes Dultabat 60 61. Atek 44. Ava 143. Augans a strange sort of people 44. Aureng-abat made a City 61. Aureng-zeb his cruelty at Callabas 33 35. His Dominions 106. His Power 108. His Ambition and craft he joyns with his Brother Morad-Backshe 110 defeats Dara-Sha ibid. deceives Morad and sends him to Prison ibid. He ascends the Throne 116. He affronts his Father 120. His Embassadors affronted by the King of Persia 121. His State when he sits upon his Throne 123. B. BAgnagar see Golconda pag. 61. Banarou 52. Bannians never kill any living thing 37. Their cruelty to them that do ibid. Their veneration for Apes 39 out-do the Jews 44. Bantam the King visited by the Author his Entertainment 196 197 c. Bargant 41. The Raja of Bargant entertains the Author Baroche 36. Begum Saheb 108 imprison'd by Aurengzeb depriv'd of her wealth her death suspected 113 114 restor'd to favour her wit 121. Bengala the Revenue of it 51. Bezoar 153 c. Boutan a Kingdom the Commodities thereof 182 183 c. Bramins a strange story of one 172. Brampour 31 a Tumuli there and the occasion ibid. Broakers Indian 133. Buildings publick in India how rear'd 35. C. CAboul pag 44. Callabas 33. Calicuts where made 31 33 40 43 52. Cambava 36. Caravasera's Indian the method therein 32. Cardamoms where had 73. Carriages Indian 27. Carriers the Order and Government among them Caste the signification and kinds 161 162. Cattel how fed in India 97. Chalaour 42. Cheats in Indian Commodities 132 133. Check of Mecca comes to Golconda in disguise 66. Marries the King's Daughter 67. Hinders him from surrendring to Aurengzeb 68. Cheraffs-Indian Bankers 22 subtiler then the Jews 23. Chineses poison the Dutch Souldiers 173. Chites 40. Chitpour ib. Cifers Indian 23. Cochin Besieg'd by the Dutch 88 Taken 89. Dutch make a mock King of it ibid. Collasar 33. Commodities of the Great Mogul's Countrey 126 c. and their price 128 129 130. Comoukes a description of the People and Countrey 204 c. Candevir 93. Corral Where found 151. Cottons where made 31 36. Where whiten'd 36. Coulour the Diamond-Mine 137 141. Coins Arabian 1. Mogul's 2. His Tributaries 3. Coins call'd Pagods 4 5. English and Dutch 5 6. Made by the King of Chida and Pera 6. By the King of Achen Kings of Macassar the Celebes and Camboya 7. By the King of Siam ib. By the Kings of Asem Tipoura Arakan and Pegu 8. Coins of China and Tunquin ib. Of Japon 9. Coins Indian representing the twelve signs 10. Coins Indian 22. Coins made by the Portugals 12. Coins Muscovian 13. Coins European their value in India 21 22. Coinage Indian 17. What loss what gain by it ib. Thrown about at the King's Ascent to the Throne 107. Currant at the Diamond-Mines 141. Cranganor 89 promis'd by the Dutch to Samarin ib. Demolish'd ib. Crocodiles may be wounded 55. How they dye ib. Customs Indian 17. Customs affronted by an English Captain 17. Exacted by the Persians from the English 75. D. DAca pag. 55. Daman besieg'd by Aureng-zeb 72. Dara-Sha his duty to his Father 108. Defeated by his Brother 110. He flies into Scindi he fights a second Battel with Aurengzeb He is betraid by Jessomseing 114 then by Gion-Kan 115. His death 116. Dehly 45. De Lan a Dutch Chirurgeon le ts the Mogul his Mother and Wife Blood 103. Dervichs 4. See Faquirs Diamonds a discourse thereof 134 c. The forms of several Diamonds 148 149. Vulgar error concerning the purchase of them 141. Diamond Miners their customs 138. Dultabat 60 61. Dutch send an Embassador to China 192. Their revenge upon the Jesuits 193. Dutch break their word with the King of Caudy 194 with the King of Achen at War with the King of Java 202 they quarrel with the Author E. ELephants destroy the Bannian's Idols pag. 34 the Woods of Mirda 43 affrighted the loss of Aurengzeb's Army 72 how taken 95 how tam'd ib. Their fury ib. The difference between them 96. Eaten by the Natives ib. How taken in Ceilan ib. The tusks due to the Lord ib. How the female receives the male ib. A remark peculiar to Ceilan Elephants ib. Their age ib. The number kept by the Great Mogul and his Expences 97 how wash'd 103. Emir-jemla 116 118. Emraulds the vulgar error concerning them 114. Eunuchs covetous of Monuments 5. Exchange Indian 26 27. F. FAquirs their manner of travelling pag. 41 their Habit and Arms ib. The respect given them ib. Their Religion 160 their Penances 165 c. Their extravagancies returning from Mecca Feast the Great Mogul's grand Feast