we had striuen yea and repined against his diuine prouidence which with humble and hearty sorrow I confesse to the glory of his sacred name In this Iland I paied for my supper and bed ten stiuers for my breakfast and dinner eight stiuers On Wednesday we had a most faire winde but the terrour of our last escape made vs stay in the harbour In the euening I went to lodge in the village and paied tenne stiuers for my supper and bed and there I saw great store of all kindes of shel-fish sold for a very small price Since this iourney by Sea had besides our expectation proued so difficult my selfe though I had seene the Cities vpon the sea coast of Germany yet preferring my safety before the charge and trouble of that way did resolue to passe to Hamburg by land with which purpose when I acquainted my consorts suddenly al the passengers resolued to leaue the ships and to go by land at which resolution the Masters of the ships stormed but when each of vs had payed them a Doller for our passage from Amsterdam to the Fly they were well pacified My selfe and nine consorts in my company hired a boat for thirty stiuers each man paying three stiuers and so vpon Thursday in foure houres space wee sailed three miles to Harlingen a City of west Freesland passing the aforesaid Inland sea And the same day hiring a boat for which each man paied six stiuers wee passed a mile to the City Froniker where is an Vniuersity and passing by water through the midst of that pleasant little City we passed two miles further to Lewerden where we lodged and I paied for my supper ten stiuers The next morning being Friday wee passed in six houres space two long miles to Dockam and each man paied for his boate hire three stiuers Without delay in the afternoone we entred a barke to saile from West Freesland one of the vnited Prouinces into East Freesland a Prouince of the German Empire but scarce one mile from the towne we cast anchor to expect the floud and lying there we heard from the land great noise barking of dogs cries of men and sounding of bells which proceeded from some Spanish Free-booters breaking out of Groning to spoile the Peasants All the next day wee sailed and in the euening for our better safety wee cast anchor neere a man of warre whereof there be some appointed to lie in this Inland Sea to guard the friends of the States and early the next morning being Sunday wee set saile and by the rising of the sunne landed in the Iland of Rotermere which is diuided from the continent by this Inland Sea and hath the maine Sea on the other side whence soone after we parted and were put on land in East Freesland a Prouince of the Empire and passing one mile on foot came to the City of Emden I said that the States maintained some men of warre in this Inland Sea and these vsed to send out in lesser boates some bodies of men to search the Barkes whether they be friends or not which bodies of men are vulgarly called Dieiagt that is the hunting of a metaphor taken from the hunting of dogs For my passage from Dockam to Emden I paid ten stiuers and here for supper and breakefast I paid twenty three stiuers though the ordinary rate be but sixe stiuers a meale without wine and for a pound of cherries I paid eight stiuers In our iourney to Stode the first day wee came in sixe houres space three miles to the village Detrem vpon the confines of the county of Emden passing through fruitfull corne fields and faire meadowes and being eight in the Waggon we all paid fifteene stiuers for the same From hence we went a mile through wild and fenny fields to the village Open and each foure consorts paid for their Waggon three stiuers and our Waggon was driuen by a woman Here the Graue or Count of Oldenburg hath a Castle and each man paid for his supper seuen groates By night we passed foure miles through a wild heath to Oldenburg and foure consorts paid ten stiuers for a Waggon They haue very little horses in these parts to draw the Waggons like to the gallo way nags of Scotland The second day wee passed two miles and a halfe in foure houres space through a sandy heath ground and thicke woods of oake and came to a Village where each man paid for his dinner foure stiuers After dinner we passed more then a mile through a like wooddy Heath and in three houres space came to Delmerhurst where the Count of Oldenburge hath a faire and strong Castle though it be a poore Village and here each man paid halfe a stiuer to the Count and for our Waggon ten stiuers The same day we passed a mile through sandy pastures and in three houres space came to Breme where each man paid for our Waggon foure groats and for our supper fiue lubecke shillings From Breme we passed foure miles through wild fields yeelding some little corne and thicke woods and in sixe houres space came to a poore house where each man paid for dinner fiue lubecke shillings Here those which carried any merchandise paid tole and one man hauing a packe which a man might carry on his shoulder paid foure lubecke shillings for the same but all that goe to study in Vniuersities or be no Merchants are free from this imposition After dinner we passed three miles in fiue houres space to Furd where each man paid for his supper fiue lubecke shillings The next day from two of the clocke in the morning to seuen wee passed three miles through a heath and woods of oake and came to Stode where each man paid for his Waggon from Breme twenty two Lubecke shillings At Stode I paid for my dinner in a Dutch Inne foure Lubecke shillings and a halfe and for a steifkin or measure of Rhenish wine halfe a doller I briefly passe ouer this iourney vpon the sea-coast of Germany because I formerly discribed the same The one and twenty of Iuly I passed in foure houres space by boat fiue miles to Hamburge and paid for my passage by water three Lubecke shillings for my supper foure and one for my bed Early in the morning I passed six miles in sixe houres space through wild fenny fields woods of oake and some few fields of corne and came to the Village Altslow seated in a bogge whereof it hath the name where I paid for my dinner fiue Lubecke shillings and a halfe Giue me leaue to tell you a ridiculous toy yet strange and true At Hamburge gate leading to Lubecke we found a dogge that followed vs and some passengers of credit assured mee that for many yeeres this dogge had lien at that gate and euery day without intermission watching the first Coach that came forth had followed the same to this village Altslow being the bayting place at noone and after dinner had returned backe to Hamburge gate with
we found the Venetian ship are in the description of Constantinople noted with the letters W and X and they are now commonly called the Castles of Gallipolis but of old that noted with the letter W was called Sestos being a Citie in Thrace in which the most faire Hero was borne and dwelt and the other noted with the letter X was called Abydos being a Citie of Asia the lesse in which Leander dwelt famous for his loue to Hero and these Castles are diuided by the Hellespont some two miles broad at least so narrow as Leander is said often to haue swomme ouer it to his beloued Hero The Castle of Sestos more specially is seated in a most fertile soyle for Nairo the next adioyning towne yeeldes excellent Wines and all necessaries to sustaine life plentifully Howsoeuer the ships ought and vse to bee staied here for three daies yet a very faire winde blowing and all duties being performed the Patrons of the ships by a large gift to the Officers sometimes obtaine leaue to depart sooner They say that each passenger by Pole payeth here one zechine for tribute but perhaps this belongs onely to Merchants for my selfe my seruant and the English Gentleman in my company hauing giuen betweene vs one zechine to the substitutes of the Venetian Bailiffe so their Ambassador is called we were dismissed vpon their motion yet we moreouer gaue fortie aspers to a Ianizare and fiftie aspers to a Chiauslar for the fees of their offices It being vnwholsome to sleep aboue the hatches of the ship at this time of the yeere though in summer time I made choice to sleepe so when I sailed from Venice to Ierusalem we three namely my selfe the English Gentleman and my seruant gaue for each of vs three zechines to the Pilot to be partners with him in his cabin which by his Office hee had proper to himselfe in the Castle of the ship and to the Patron or Master of the ship for our diet we paid each of vs after the rate of fiue zechines and a halfe by the moneth as well at Sea as in Harbors and for our passage we ioyntly paid ten ducats of Venice so as I still paid two parts of three in all expences besides that wee brought with vs some hundreds of Egges and a vessell of excellent Wine of Palormo which our Ambassadour at Constantinople gaue vs. Vpon Monday the seuenth of March after the old stile vsed in Turky by all Christians and others in the afternoone we set sayle and passed the straight of Hellespont and the same night sayled by the foresaid Iland of Tenedos This Sea is called Pontus of the adiacent Prouince of Asia the lesse named Pontus which Prouince containes Colchis famous by the old Argonauticall expedition Capidocia and Armenia The eight of March early in the morning we did see tha Iland Lemnos famous for a kind of earth there digged and in Latin called Terra Sigillata vpon our right hand and the Ilands Metelene and Chios now called Zio and the Citie Smyrna vpon the continent of Asia the lesse vpon our left hand to omit Ephesus not farre distant vpon the same continent And being now entred into the AEgean Sea now called Archipelagus of fiftie Ilands standing like Arches and not farre distant one from the other which are called Cyclades or Sporades the ninth of March hauing now sailed eightie miles and being to sayle by the Iland Saint George of Skyra the windes were so contrary as wee were forced to strike sayles and lie at hull that is tossed to an fro by the waues The same day we set sayle and left the Iland Andros one of the Cyclades and the Iland Tyno subiect to the Venetians on our left hand or towards the East and the Iland Negropont lying close to the continent of Attica and right ouer against the ruines of famous Athens on our right hand or towards the West The tenth and eleuenth of March wee sayled 100 miles in the same Sea full of Ilands and sailed by the Ilands Gia and Makarone But towards night contrary windes rising high and we fearing to bee cast vpon some shoare of many adiacent Ilands againe we struck sayle and lay at hull tossing to and fro but making small or no progresse The twelfth of March early in the morning we set sayle and sayled by the Iland Milo of old called Miletum where Saint Paul landed Acts 20. 15 and a neere Iland Sdiles of old called Delos and most famous for the Oracle of Apollo and the Promontory of Morea of old called Peloponesus containing many Prouinces of Greece which promontory is called Capo Malleo The thirteenth of March hauing sayled one hundred and ninety miles we passed by the Iland Cerigo not subiect to the Turkes as most of the Ilands are but to the Venetians who in a Castle on the South side keepe a Garrison of souldiers It is one of the Cyclades seated at the entrance of the Archipelagus towards the South scarce fiue miles distant from Morea the foresaid continent of Greece and some one hundred and fiftie miles from Candia the chiefe Citie of the Iland Candia and was of old called Scotera also Porphoris of that precious kind of Marble there digged and also Citherea of which as her chiefe seate Venus is often so called And to this day there are seene the ruines of a Temple dedicated to Venus and of a Pallace belonging to Menelaus the husband of Helena From the thirteenth to the seuenteenth of March the windes were so contrary or scant as wee onely sayled one hundred and twenty miles and tooke harbour in the Iland Zante subiect to the Venetians whereof I made mention in my voyage from Venice to Ierusalem Here some English Merchants continually reside and the Hauen being commodious and most ships that trade in these Seaes vsing to put into this Harbor the goods that are diuersly transported thence are vulgarly but falsely esteemed the natiue commodities of the Iland It hath scarce sixtie miles in circuit and the Mountaines round about vpon the Sea-side inclose a pleasant and fruitfull Plaine The Hauen is like an halfe Moone increasing and the chiefe Towne called Zante lies in a little Plaine vpon the innermost part thereof in length The buildings of the houses are two stories high with a tyled but low roofe without any windowes according to the building of Italy but are poore and base for the matter so as the onely beautie of the Towne lies in the Castle built at the East end vpon a high Hill being of a large circuit and containing many houses and Churches within the walles thereof In which Castle the Gouernour called il Podestà and the other Venetian inferiour Magistrates dwell and giue Law to the people of that Iland The Turkish Pirats of Saint Mauro in Morea hauing lately set vpon and taken a huge Venetian ship did lade seuenteene of their little barques with the most pretious goods
by waggon the high way being then drowned Nothing were more pleasant nothing more quicke then Sea-voyages if a man might promise himselfe a good wind and a reasonable gale but through contrariety of winds and tempests they commonly proue tedious This small voyage which afflicted vs foure daies might haue beene passed in sixe houres if the winds had fauoured vs. And this hope of a short passage caused vs to make no prouision of victuals so as the Barke being gouerned by one Mariner and a boy who had nothing but cheese and musty bread to liue vpon and so could not much releeue vs each houre of these foure daies seemed a yeere vnto vs. Dockam a City of West Freesland little in circuit is in two places diuided with water which at this time ouer flowed into the very houses The wall is strong with rampiers of earth and the houses here as in all these parts of Netherland are built of bricke Here I paid for my supper twenty stiuers eating at an Ordinary but the company sitting at the fire and drinking after supper all vseth to be diuided equally whether a man drinke or not The first of Nouember we went by water in sixe houres space two miles to Lewerden hauing on each side the water fertile pastures and passing by two Forts and each man paid for his passage three stiuers The City is faire and well fortified and William Count of Nassau cousin to Count Maurice and Gouernour of Friesland had his residence in the same The streetes are large and diuided with water and the houses are fairely builded of bricke The City hath no Suburbs and is of a round forme but the waters diuiding the streetes slowly or not at all moued are in this City as almost in all other of these Prouinces subiect to stinking In the midst of the City there is a dam tolet in water at pleasure which in this place and two miles further is salt in tast Passengers entering the City leaue their swords with the guard of souldiers and receiue them backe when they goe out of the Towne The Villages hereabouts paid yeerely contribution to the Spanish garison of Groning left they should breake in and spoile them Here they say the first sermon of reformed religion was made in the Monastery of the Iacobinet and here I paid for my supper foureteene stiuers From Lewerden we went by water from eight a clocke in the morning to fiue in the afternoone two-miles to Froniker an Vniuersity of Friesland lately renewed and one mile to the City Harlingen and we paid six stiuers for our passage Entering this City we left our swords with the guard of souldiers who restored them to vs when wee went away It is a little City and lieth in length from the East to the West but is somewhat more narrow towards the North where the houses are thinly built On the west and North sides lies an arme of the Sea comming out of the German Sea and here inclosed with the continent and Ilands On the South and East sides without the gates are faire pastures in a large plaine I lodged in an Englishmans house the chiefe Host of the City who either dispising England and Englishmen or too much respecting his masters of Friesland gaue me such entertainment as I tooke him for one of the old Picts for hauing placed his Gentlemen of Friesland at one table he called me to the second and seeing that I tooke it in ill part lest I should no lesse dislike my lodging he intreated a gentleman of Friesland to admit me partner of his bed but I hearing the gentleman condition with him about the cleannesse of my body and linnen for very scorne would not trouble his worship but chose rather to lie vpon a bench And it was most ridiculous that this Host excused himselfe to me as hauing for countries sake made bold with me whom he had neuer seene before I paid for my supper and breakefast with wine thirty stiuers and one of my consorts drinking no wine paid sixeteene whereof nine was for beere From Harlingen I went by the said Inland Sea vulgarly called Zwidersea foureteene miles to Amsterdam and paid eight stiuers for my passage Some of our passengers going onely to Enchusen paid fiue stiuers for by couenant betweene the Cities the ships must land their passengers at Enchusen and there receiue such new passengers as they find and one ship at least is bound daily to make this passage From the said Harlingen a City of Friesland wee passed in foure houres saile to Enchusen a City of Holland which is fortified with a wall of earth and strong rampiers and lieth in length from the North to the South The Hauen lies on the East side and the new City was then building towards the West side This City lying betweene the mouth of the German sea and Amsterdam another City of Holland and in the beginning of the warre taking part with the Prince of Orange forced Amsterdam by stopping all supply of victuals to yeeld to the said Prince Hauing made short stay here we tooke ship againe and sayling from siue a clocke in the euening to twelue in the night in the same Inland sea we entered the Riuer Tay where we cast anchor till foure in the morning and then setting sayle passed one mile in that Riuer before sixe of the clocke and landed at Amsterdam Fiue streetes of this City are diuided with water the Riuer Tay flowes like a large and calme sea on the North side where is a safe port the trafficke being great in this City and at Midleburg since the passage to Antwerpe was stopped Vpon the Hauen lics a field or market place called Campplata where the Citizens vse to behold their friends going to sea and returning home From this place towards the South lies Warmerstrat a long and large street betweene two Riuers which part of the City is called the new Ditch The Merchants in summer meet vpon the Bridge and in winter they meet in the New Church in very great number where they walke in two rankes by couples one ranke going vp and another going downe and there is no way to get out of the Church except they slip out of the doores when in one of those rankes they passe by them On the East side of the City there is a wall of stone higher then the City hauing a pleasant walke vpon it In the same place are houses for exercise of shooting in gunneo and crosse-bowes beyond this wall there is another of earth and betweene these wals the new City was plotted out where of few houses were then built but since I heare it is fully finished Likewise on the South and West sides there be two like wals and between them the plot of the said new City in which many faire houses were then built The fields on all sides without the gates being fenny and drowned with water doe make the City more strong but
cloth as would couer the same with a Rose-noble at the corner of each cloth Others tell a fable of like credit that it was once sold to a Merchant whom they scoffed when he came to take possession bidding him take away the earth he had bought The great reuenew exacted in this straight hath giuen occasion to these and the like fables And in truth if either the King of Suetia or the free City of Lubeck had the possession of this Iland and were fortified therein they might easily command this passage and extort what they list from the Merchants passing that way and perhaps conquer the parts adioyning but the possession thereof were altogether vnprofitable for any Prince whose Territories lie out of the Sound the entrance whereof is forbid by the two foresaid strong Castles But lest I should bee as foolish as they I returne to my purpose And first giue me leaue to mention that there lies a City not farre distant in the Kingdome of Norway which is called London as the chiefe City in England is called Vpon Sunday the twenty six of August in the yeere 1593 I tooke an English ship heere to saile into Prussen hauing first bought for my victuals halfe a lambe for twelue Danish shillings thirty egges for six shillings and some few pots of Spanish wine for forty two Danish shillings with some other small prouisions From Elsinure to Dantzk they reckon eighty English miles Assoone as wee were come out of the harbour wee saw two ships sayling two contrary wayes and yet hauing both a forewind which sometimes happens vpon the shoare as marriners know For of these two contrary winds the one is airy which holds when you are gone into the maine the other is from the earth and in short time faileth at the very shore which euent we presently saw with our eyes one of the ships going fairely on his course the other casting anchor The English ship in which I went was called the Antilope being of one hundred fifty tuns or thereabouts and one Master Bodley was the Master thereof who shewed me manifest signes where his ship in two places had beene struck with lightning the first whereof passed into the pumpe and rent it but comming to the water was by the nature thereof carried vpward and comming out at the top of the pumpe made two little holes then passing to the great Mast rent it and made a great crany therein from the hatches to the top The second struck the top of the said maine Mast and againe rent it in such wise as it would scarcely beare saile till wee might come to Dantzk where the best Mastes are sold at a good rate The first day we sayled in the Baltick sea some fiue miles with a scant winde and cast anchor neere Copenhagen With a faire winde and good gaile Marriners vsually sayle some three Dutch leagues in an houre On Monday early wee sayled along the shore three miles to Falsterboden On Tuesday early wee sayled eighteene miles to the Iland Brentholm and vpon our left hands saw the land in two places and there sounding with our plummet sand of Amber stuck thereunto The same day by noone wee sayled the length of that Iland and vpon Wednesday by three of the clocke in the morning hauing sayled thirty miles we passed by Rose-head being a Promentory 〈◊〉 Dantzk On Thurs-day by eight of the clocke in the morning hauing sayled eighteene miles we came to a Land called Rettell and entered the Port of Meluin where the water was scarce two fadome deepe our ship drawing one fadome and a halfe the entry was narrow and there were many booyes floting vpon shoales sands and the weather being calme we were drawne in by a boate with Oares In like cases ships vse to draw themselues in by the casting and weighing of Anchors with great labour and flow riddance of way From Kettell we passed ten miles and came to the Port of Meluin Iu the aforesaid entry of the Riuer on the right hand towards the West we saw Dantzke seated not farre from the sea shore where it hath a hauen but not so safe as this and towards the north-North-east in the same place a channell runneth vp to Konigsberg the Court of the Duke of Prussen The Port of Meluin is searce ten foot deepe but our ship passed through the mud like a plow vpon land This port is a little distant from the City on the North-side where we entered by a faire large street called Martgasse lying thence towards the South Prussen of old was subiect to the order of the Teutonicke Knights but by agreement made betweene the King of Poland and the Margraue or Marques of Brandeburg Master of the said order part of the prouince was giuen to the said Marques and his heires with title of Duke vnder homage to the King of Poland with condition that for want of heire male it should returne to the Kingdome of Poland and the other part was then vnited to the said Kingdome but Dantzke and Meluin remained free Cities acknowledging the King of Poland for their Protector for which cause they giue him many customes and permit his Officer to abide in the City ard receiue the same Meluin is a little and faire City lately compassed with new wals and at this time grew rich by the English Merchants hauing their staple in the same They giue good fare for foure grosh a meale and he that paies for two meales in the day may besides haue meat or drinke betweene meales at pleasure without paying any thing The same euening we landed at Meluin our Marriners staying in the ship entertained other English Marriners comming aboard and according to their custome giuing them a peece when they departed it happened that the peece being of iron brake and therewith cut the Cooke off by the middle and rent all the prow of the ship The English Merchants at Meluin had no Preacher though the Citizens gaue them free exercise of religion so that how so euer they excused in by reason that learned Preachers could hardly be drawne to come so farre for meanes to liue yet I thought them not free of blame in this point because our Merchants further distant in Asia and liuing vnder the Turkes Empire found meanes by their bounty to haue learned Preachers Neither indeed did I euer obserue in any other place Italy excepted that our Merchants wanted Preachers where they held their staples From Meluin I went ten miles in one day to Dantzke and we being onely two conforts paid each of vs a Doller for our Coach In the morning we went sixe miles and by the way passed the Riuer Begot comming out of the riuer Vistula where our Coachman paid three grosh to haue his Coach carried ouer a damme Beyond this riuer we entered the territory of the King of Poland and passing all this way through fruitfull come fields and rich medowes and pastures in a Countrey abounding with
vitae which they call Harach and drinke as largely as Wine for ten meidines foure pounds of wine for one zechine Bisket for the Turkes haue no other bread but cakes baked on the harth for thirty meidines which things we prouided for our Supper and to carry with vs by the way yet might we haue bought and did buy most things by the way excepting Wine and Bread which are hardly found and must be carried by those that will haue them The guide of our Carauan was detained here by his businesse most part of the next day being Wednesday and in the meane time it fortunately happened that a Turkish Basha returning with his traine from his Gouernement and being to goe our way rested here so as his company freed vs the rest of our iourney from feare of theeues Vpon Wednesday in the afternoone we setforward in the company of this Basha and iournied all night in this Plaine wherein there was not the shadow of one tree and at eight of the clock the next morning we did sit downe in the open field resting vnder the ruines of old walles Here the Ianizaries of the Basha inquired curiously after the condition of me and my brother so as our Muccaro aduised vs to giue them halfe a piastro which they receiuing promised to defend vs from all iniury but in the meane time they did so swallow our wine as when it was spent we were forced to drinke water to which we were not vsed Vpon Thursday at three of the clock in the afternoone we set forward and about midnight we came to the Citie Marrha where our Muccaro and diuers others payed each of them ten meidines for cafar or tribute and at the Citie Gate a man was hanged in chaines also the next day we did see another impalled that is sitting and rotting vpon a stake fastned in the ground and thrust into his fundament and bowels Vpon Friday before day wee set forward and passing a stony barren way but full of Walnut trees vpon which many birds did sit and sing wee came in foure houers space to an Hospitall which they call Caon and it was stately built of stone in a round forme with arches round about the Court-yard vnder which arches each seuerall company chose their place to eate and rest both which they must doe vpon the ground except they bring Tables and beds with them Neither were any victuals there to be sold or dressed but euery man bought his victuals in the Village adioyning and dressed it after his manner The same Friday at foure in the afternoone wee went forward and riding all night did vpon Saturday early in the morning sleepe an hower in the open field while meate was giuen to our beasts Then going forward we came by Noone the same day being the nine and twentie of Iune after the Popes new stile which I haue followed hitherto being in company of Italians and Friers to the famous Citie of Haleppo where the English Merchants liuing in three houses as it were in Colledges entertained my brother and mee very 〈◊〉 And George Dorington the Consul of the English there led vs to the house wherein he liued with other Merchants and there most courteously entertained vs with plentifull diet good lodging and most friendly conuersation refusing to take any money for this our entertainement And howsoeuer wee brought him onely a bill of exchange for one hundred Crownes yet when we complained to him that we now perceiued the same would not serue our turnes hee freely lent vs as much more vpon our owne credit Yea when after my brothers death my selfe fell dangerously sicke and was forced to goe from those parts before I could recouer my health so as all men doubted of my returne into England yet he lent me a farre greater summe vpon my bare word which howsoeuer I duly repayed after my comming into England yet I confesse that I cannot sufficiently acknowledge his loue to mee and his noble consideration of poore and afflicted strangers The Citie Haleppo is said to haue the name of Halep which signifies milke because the Prouince is most fruitfull or of the word Aleph as the chiefe Citie of Syria and to haue been called of old Aram Sohab mentioned the second of Samuel the eight Chapter and third verse or at least to be built not farre from the ruines thereof The Trafficke in this place is exceeding great so as the goods of all Asia and the Easterne Ilands are brought hither or to Cayro in Egypt And before the Portugals found the way into East India these commodities were all brought from these two Cities And the Venetians and some free Cities of Italy solly enioyed all this trafficke of old But after that time the Portugals trading in East India serued all Europe with these commodities selling them yea and many adulterate Druggs at what price they listed cutting off most part of this trafficke from the Italians At last the French King making league with the great Turke the Merchants of Marsiles were made partners of this trafficke and in our age the English vnder the Raigne of Queene Elizabeth obtained like priuiledge though great opposition was made against them by the Venetians French Merchants And the Turkey company in London was at this time the richest of all other silently enioying the safety and profit of this trafficke vnderstand that when I wrote this the trafficke into the East Indies was nothing at all or very little knowne to the English or Flemmings This City lies within Land the Port whereof called Alexandretta by the Christians and Scanderona by the Turkes I shall hereafter describe The building of this City as of all houses in Syria is like to that of Ierusalem but one roofe high with a plaine top plaistered to walke vpon and with Arches before the houses vnder which they walke dry and keepe shops of wares The City is nothing lesse then well fortified but most pleasantly seated hauing many sweet gardens The aire was so hot as me thought I supped hot broth when I drew it in but it is very subtile so as the Christians comming hither from Scanderona a most vnhealthfull place hauing the aire choaked with Fens continually fall sicke and often die And this is the cause that the English Factors imployed here seldome returne into England the twentieth man scarcely liuing till his prentiship being out he may trade here for himselfe The Christians here and the Turkes at the Christians cost drinke excellent wines where of the white wines grow in that territory but the red wines are brought from Mount Libanus Moreouer all things for diet are sold at cheape rates and indeed the Turkes want not good meat but only good Cookes to dresse it The English Merchants can beare me witnes that these parts yeeld sheepe whereof the taile of one wreathed to the ground doth weigh some thirty or more pounds in fat and wooll In one of the City gates they shew the Sepulcher
cast vp in the middest of the Sea with an eruption of flames and of Brimstone and that they are not inhabited but are commonly called the Diuels Ilands because many ships casting anchor there and fastning their Cables vpon land haue had their Cables loosed by spirits in the night and so suffered shipwrack or hardly escaped the same The night following we sailed in the middest of many Ilands which made that Channell very dangerous and for my part I was more affraid of the danger because our Candian Merchant growing acquainted with an harlot in the ship was not ashamed to haue the vse of her body in the sight of the Marriners that watched and much blamed him for the same Vpon Wednesday the two and twentie of December we sailed by the Iland Paros celebrated by Poets for the fine Marble growing there and so we came to the Iland Naxos two hundred miles distant from Candia Naxos and the adiacent Ilands had their owne Duke of old but now are subiect to the Turke as the other Ilands bee for the most part And our Marriners dwelling in this Iland and landing to see their wiues we also landed with them where I did see vpon a Hill like a Peninsul neere this chiefe Village two Marble images erected to Thesius and Ariadne Here I obserued that when any stranger or Inhabitant lands the beggers flock to the dores of the houses or Innes where they eate and hauing formerly obserued in the Greeke Church at Venice that when they gaue their Almes to beggers they not onely suffered them to touch their garments with their lousie rags but also tooke them familiarly by the hands I knew not whether I should attribute this fashion to their charitable affection in time of their bondage or to their seldom feasting and the multitude of beggars In the euening we loosed from Naxos and sailing ouer a channell no lesse dangerous then the former for the multitude of Ilands vpon the three and twentie of December we passed close by the shoare of the Iland Zio called Chios of old It is inhabited by Greekes as the other Ilands are and is famous for the pleasantnesse and fertiltie of the situation and soyle It yeeldeth great store of Mastick and the country people keepe flocks of raine Partridges as of Hens other where They brag that Homer lyes buried vpon the Mountaine Helias and this Iland hath Saint George for their protecting Saint and beares his Crosse in their Flags as England doth Here we might distinctly see the shoare of Asia in that part where of old the seuen Churches stood not farre distant to which Saint Iohn writes his Reuelation And the Iland Pathmos is not farre distant where Saint Iohn liued in exile Towards the euening we cast anchor neere the Iland Metelene which is seated as Zio in the Egean Sea and is no lesse pleasant and fertile Of old it was called Lesbos then Issa and after Pelasgia and therein were borne Pythagoras the Poet Alceus Antimenides Theophrastus Phanius Arion and Tersandrus and the famous woman Poet Sapho Zio is distant one hundred and forty miles from Naxos and Meteline ninety miles from Zio The foure and twenty of December being Christmas euen after the old stile vsed among the Greekes and in all Turkey early in the morning we weighed anchor and with a faire but gentle wind sayled close by the shoare where the City of Troy stood of old seated in a plaine and vpon pleasant hils neere the Sea and at this day the ruines of Illium the Castle of Priamus are seene vpon a hill and the ruines of the wals in the plaine yet shew the circuit of the City The Poets said truly Hic seges est vbi Troia fuit Corne growes now where Troy once stood Yet the plowed fields haue very many ruines of buildings On the North side of these Troian ruines a necke of Land lies towards the Sea where they say the Greekes encamped and left their fatall Troian Horse Right ouer against this Land lies the Iland Tenedos scarce ten miles distant in the Hauen whereof we cast anchor for an hower vnder a little Castle and this Tenedos is sixty miles distant from Metelene From hence sailing some eighteene miles we passed by two necks of Land one of Greece on the West-side the other of Asia the lesse now called Natolia on the East-side and after twelue miles saile we entered the streight of Hellespont now called the two Castles the description whereof I will defer till my returne this way The Greek Marriners haue a custome here to demand a gift of all Merchants passengers in their ship for ioy of their happy voyage and they say which I beleeue not that if any refuse they tie a rope to his feete and draw him vp to the top of the maste till he yeeld to this custome but howsoeuer we all obeyed this ridiculous custome not to offend them who had vsed vs well This channell running from the blacke sea called Euxinus into Propontis and so by Constantinople to these said two Castles and from hence into the AEgean sea from the North towards the South is alwaies contrary to those that sayle from the mediteranian sea to Constantinople especially after they enter this streight of the two Castles and neere Constantinople it runnes with such force towards the South as they that saile to the City whereof we had experience with the best winds yet sayle very slowly This violence of the Channell is attributed to great Riuers violently falling into the blacke Sea The foresaid Christmas euen we landed at Gallipolis a Greeke City seated in Thrace hauing the name as it seemes from the French and eight and twenty miles distant from the two Castles On Saturday the fiue and twenty of December being Christmas day after the old stile we set saile but the winds droue vs backe to the Hauen of Gallipolis where being detained some few daies though I staied in the ship for feare of some fraud from the Turkes yet once I went on Land with our Marriners The City lieth in length vpon the shoare of Propontis from the South to the North and it hath without the wals towards the West great number of Wind-mils the buildings are of slint or little vnpolished stones one or two stories high and the roofe is low and tiled not plaine and plastered to walke vpon as they be in Syrea and Cyprus and this roofe is so low as it hath no windowes so as the buildings of these parts are very like those of Italy The Hauen is on the East side and vpon the opposite shoare of Asia towards the East are the ruines not farre distant of Nice a City of Bithinia famous for the holy Councell held there of old Vpon Saterday the first of Ianuary we sailed sixty miles in this straight of Propontis to the Iland Marmora not without feare of Turkish Pirats the Hauen of
Camera being neere vs where the great Turkes Gallies lie By the way they shewed me a Castle towards the East vpon the shore of Asia the lesse which they say stands vpon the confines of the Troian Dominion and thereof hath the name to this day The Iland Marmora is so called as I think of themarble wherewith it aboundeth The second of Ianuary we set sayle from Marmora and being by contrary winds driuen backe as I think or little aduanced we came to the Iland Aloni some ten miles distant from Marmora and so called of the forme of a yard in which Oxen vsed to grinde Corne or beate it small After the beginning of the new yeere which the Greekes as most of Europe begin the first of Ianuarie the first Wednesday being the fourth of that month the Grecian Marriners haue a custom retained from old times to baptize the Sea as they terme it which done they thinke the Flouds and Windes to grow more calme then formerly The Iland Aloni hath a Port on all sides compassed with Ilands and that very large and safe where while we passed some stormy daies wee heard of many Barkes and Gallies cast away While I walked here vpon the shoare a wild-headed Turke tooke my hat from my head being of the fashion of Europe not vsed there and hauing turned it and long beheld it he said to vse his rude words Lend me this vessell to ease my belly therein and so girning flung it'on the dyrtie ground which I with patience tooke vp These and like wrongs of speech euen threatnings of blowes I sometimes indured in Turkey but neuer had the disaster to haue any blow giuen me by any of them which many good Christians notwithstanding haue suffered and daily suffer and my selfe if they had fallen to my share must haue suffered with patience except I would by resistance haue incurred shamefull and cruell death On Thursday the thirteenth of Ianuary at last wee set sayle with a faire winde and after twentie miles sayling we passed by the Citie Palormo seated vpon the shoare of Asia the lesse and famous for the white Wine it yeeldeth the best that euer I tasted and hauing sayled ten miles further we sailed by the Citie Heraclea seated on the shore of Greece whereof in my returne this way I shall haue cause to speake more at large Towards euening we thought we were come to one of the corners of Constantinople called the seuen Towers yet by reason of the foresaid swift channell running from the black Sea full against vs with a most faire wind we could not land in the Hauen of Constantinople till midnight hauing that day sayled one hundred and twentie miles in all from the said Ile Aloni This voyage was more tedious to vs in that howsoeuer landing we had somtimes good dyet yet while we were at Sea we had no good victuals in the ship For the Greeke Marriners feede of Onions Garlike and dried fishes one kinde whereof they call Palamides and the Italians call Palamite and in stead of a banket they will giue you a head of Garlick rosted in the ashes and pleasantly call it a pigeon With this and Bisket they content themselues and these we were forced to eate hauing omitted to prouide any dried or salt meates at Candia because wee hoped to find those in our Barke and knowing that it was in vaine to prouide any fresh meates because they would not suffer a fier to be made in so small a Barke wherewith we might dresse them But after we had eaten Bisket and dried fishes we had an vnknowne comfort or helpe to disgest them For in our priuat cabbin we had the head of a tun of Muskedine lying vnder our heads when we slept in stead of a bolster and our ship being bound on the vpper part of the sides with bundles of Reedes to beate off the force of the waues we taking one of the long Reedes found meanes to pierce the vessell and get good Wine to our ill fare and drunke so merrily that before wee came to our iournies end our former Reede became too short so as we were faine to piece it with another Hauing cast anchor as I said in the Port of Constantinople behold as soone as day began to breake many companies of Turkes rushing into our Barke who like so many starued flies fell to sucke the sweete Wines each rascall among them beating with cudgels and ropes the best of our Marriners if he durst but repine against it till within short space the Candian Merchant hauing aduertised the Venetian Ambassadour of their arriuall he sent a lanizare to protect the Barke and the goods and assoone as he came it seemed to me no lesse strange that this one man should beate all those Turkes and driue them out of the Barke like so many dogs the common Turkes daring no more resist a souldier or especially a Ianizare then Christians dare resist them And the Seriant of the Magistrate hauing taken some of our Greeke Marriners though subiect to the State of Venice to worke for their Ottoman in gathering stones and like base imployments this Ianizary caused them presently to be released and to be sent againe into their Barke such is the tyranny of the Turkes against all Christians aswel their subiects as others so as no man sayleth into these parts but vnder the Banner of England France or Venice who being in league with the great Turke haue their Ambassadours in this Citie and their Consuls in other Hauens to protect those that come vnder their Banner in this sort sending them a Ianizare to keepe them from wrongs so soone as they are aduertised of their arriuall My selfe lodged in the house of Master Edward Barton the English Ambassadour who gaue me a Ianizare to guide and protect me while I went to view the City round about the whole circuit whereof I went on foot and by boat in foure houres space the forme of the Citie being triangular and containing nine miles by Sea towards the North and East and fiue miles by land towards the West I professe my selfe to haue small skill in the art of Geography yet will I aduenture though rudely to set downe the forme and situation of this City so plainely as I doubt not but the Reader may easily vnderstand it howsoeuer in the same as in other cities formerly described I acknowledge that I vse not the rule of the scale in the distance of places nor other exquisite rules of that Art hauing no other end but to make the Reader more easily vnderstand my description The description of the City of Constantinople and the adiacent Territories and Seas The great lines or walles shew the forme of the City and the single small lines describe the Teritory adioyning A In this Tower they hang out a light of pitch and like burning matter to direct the Saylers by night comming to the City or sayling along the coast out of the
and the State of Venice would assist the Raguzeant against them and no way indure that the Turkish Ottoman should make himselfe Lord of that Hauen Vpon the three and twenty of Aprill towards euening we sayled by the little Iland Augusta being yet of a good large circuit and populous and subiect to the Raguzeans but the Coast is dangerous for ships arriuall by reason of the Rockes called the Augustines and by the little Iland Corsolavi Some Ilands in this Sea are subiect to the Raguzeans and some neere to the Northerne continent haue the Great Turke for their Lord but the rest are subiect to the Venetians and are very many in number but little and good part of them little or not at all inhabited The Italians our consorts told vs of an Iland not farre distant called Pelaguza and lying neere the continent of Italy vpon the Coast whereof the famous Turkish Pyrate of Algier a Hauen in Africa was lately wont to houer and lie hidden and made rich booties of the Venetian and Italian Merchants Vpon Sunday the foure and twenty of Aprill we had in sight and little distant the little Ilands Catza and Lissa and in the afternoone on our left hand towards Italy the Iland Pomo and in the euening towards Dalmatia two Ilands and vpon the continent the City Zaga being some two hundred miles distant from Venice And the night following we sailed ouer an arme of the Sea some thirty miles broade lying betweene Dalmatia and Istria called Il Cornaro which we passed without any appearance of danger though otherwise it be generally reputed so dangerous as the Venetians offended with any Marriner vse this imprecation Maledetto sia il Cornaro che t' ha lasciato passare that is Cursed be the Cornaro for letting thee passe Vpon Monday the fiue and twenty of Aprill as we sailed by the Coast of Istria one of the Marriners aged and as we thought honest and of some authority among the rest priuately admonished me that I should safely locke vp our goods in our chests left the inferior Marriners should steale our shirts or any other thing they found negligently left which they vsed to doe especially at the end of any voyage Vpon Tuesday the sixe and twenty of April we cast anchor beyond Pola in the continent of Istria a City now ruined and vpon the seuen and twenty day we entred the Hauen of Rouinge in Istria subiect to the Venetians where the ships vse to take a Pilot for their owne safety or els are tied so to doe by some old priuiledge of that City Here the Prouisors for health gaue vs liberty of free conuersation as they had formerly done at Zante seeing no man in our ship to be sicke or sickely And I did not a little wonder when I obserued each second or third person of this City to halt and be lame of one foot which made me remember the Citizens of Islebe in Germany and in the Prouince of Saxony where almost all the men haue wry neckes whereof I knew the cause namely because they vsed daily to dig in mines with their neckes leaning on one side but of this common lamenes of the Inhabitants in Rouinge I could not learne any probable cause except it were the foule disease of lust raigning in those parts which I rather thought likely because the lamenesse was common to weomen as men Now the sayling in our great ship was like to be more trouble some dangerous and slow whereupon fiue of vs ioyning together did vpon the thirtieth of Aprill after the old stile hier a boate of sixe Oares for seuen Venetian Duckets to Venice where we arriued the next day towards euening and staied in our boat vpon the wharfe of the Market place of Saint Marke till the Prouisors of health sitting in their Office neere that place came vnto vs and after some conference vnderstanding that we and our ship were free of all infection or sicknesse gaue vs free liberty of conuersation Wee staied three dayes at Venice to refresh our selues and paied each man three lyres for each meale in a Dutch Inne Then hauing receiued money of a Merchant I went to the Village Mestre and there bought of Dutchmen newly arriued in Italy two horses for my selfe and my man the one for thirtie the other for twentie ducates These horses I sold at Stode in Germany after my iourney ended at or about the same rate He that hath the Dutch tongue and either knowes the waies of Germany himselfe or hath consorts skilfull therein being to trauell from Stode or those parts into Italy shall finde more profit in buying a horse in those parts of Germany for so hee shall saue great summes vsually paid for coches and at the iournies end or rather by the way towards the ende of his iourney may in Italy sell his horses with good profit In the Village Mestre each of vs paid each meale fiftie soldi that is two lires and a halfe From hence we took the right way to Augsburg in Germany to Nurnberg Brunswick and to Stode an old Citie lying on the Northern Sea of Germany The particulars of which iourney I here omit hauing in my iourney to Ierusalem passed the very same way from Stode to Venice So as it shall suffice to adde some few things in generall Within the confines of Italy each man of vs paid for each meale fortie and sometimes fiftie Venetian soldi and for hay and stable for his horse commonly at noone foure soldi at night twelue soldi and for ten measures of oates giuen each day to each horse fiftie soldi After we entred Germany each man paid each meale commonly twentie creitzers at Inspruch twentie foure and somtimes twentie six creitzers for hay six creitzers a day or there-abouts and for ten measures of oates seruing one horse for a day wee paid fiftie creitzers In the middle Prouinces of Germany each of vs paid for each meale commonly sixteene creitzers that is foure batzen and in the parts vpon the Northerne sea some foure Lubeck shillings And from the Citie Armstat seated betweene Augsburg and Nurnberg to the said Northern sea side we had a new measure of oates called Hembd one of which measures was sold for some tenne Lubeck shillings and serued three horses for our baite at noone and another was almost sufficient for them at night From Stode seated vpon the German Sea we passed in a boat to the outmost Hauen where wee went abroad an English ship vpon the fourth of Iuly after the old stile being Tuesday The sixt of Iuly early in the morning we set sayle and the eight of Iuly we came vpon the most wished land of England and cast anchor neere Orford a Castle in Suffolke Vpon Saturday the ninth of Iuly after the old stile we landed at Grauesend and without delay with the night-tide passed in a boat to London where we ariued on Sunday at foure of the clock in the morning the tenth of
in our Age. The other City is called Chaledon whence was the Chaledonian Boare sung of the Poets 5 The fifth Prouince of Turky is Macedonia of old called Migdonia and Emathea the chiefe City whereof is Thessalonica vulgarly now called Saloniche to the Citizens whereof S. Paul wrote his Epistle The Mountains of this Prouince Olimpus Pelion Ossa are famous by the fables of the Giants Athos is fained to passe the clouds with his top 6. The lower part of Macedonia is called Thessalia or AEmonia of Thessalus the son of AEmon or as others say of Iason the chiefe Towne whereof was Pharsalos whose fields are famous by the victory of Caesar against Pompey 7 Thracia hath faire Cities Trimontium of old called Poneropolis and Philippopolis Adrianopolis and the head City Constantinopolis of old called Bysantium now Stambol seated vpon the Bosphorus of Thracia It hath famous Mountaines Rhodope Mela and Ismarus Vpon Propontis the Thracian Chersonesus or necke of Land lies vpon the Hellespont in which are the Townes Sesto and Callipolis 8 The vpper Mista is deuided into three parts Rascia Bosnia and Seruia and the lower Misia into three parts Bulgaria Wallachia and Moldauia In Bulgaria the Riuer Danubius beginnes to be called Isther which fals into the Euxine Sea with foure strong and three lesser channels 9 Dacia or Transiluania was of old possessed by the Saxons who there built seuen Cities or Castles of which the Prouince is called Septem-Castrensis vulgarly Sieben burgen and of old it belonged to the Kingdome of Hungary but at this day is tributary to the Turks 10 Hungaria so called of the people Hunnt was of old called Fannonia the lower and of right belongs to the German Emperour but of late the Turkes haue subdued the greater part thereof It hath many and strongly fortified Cities as Debrezinum Varadinum Segedinum vulgarly Seget Castrum taken by the Turkes Strigonium vulgarly 〈◊〉 taken by the Turkes in the yeere 1543 Alba Regalis at that time also taken by them Quinquecclesiae the feate of the Bishop Buda seated vpon the Danow twice or thrice taken and regained on both sides of old the Kings seate called vulgarly Offen and Pesta seated on the other side of Danow vulgarly called New offen The Hungarian Nation yeelds to none in strength and courage not vnlike the Scithians in language and manners 11 The Ilands of Europe in the Ionian Sea are these Corcira vulgarly Corfu Cephalania and Zaintos in Latin Zacinthus vulgarly now called Zante all three subiect to the Venetians All the Ilands in the AEgean Sea are subiect to the Turke being innumerable among them are the Cyclades so called because they lie round together the chiefe whereof are Cytnos Cyphnos vulgarly Sifano Parus now called Paris famous for the Marble Tenos now called Tenasa Naxus Andros and Delos the chiefe of all where Apollo and Diana were borne Next them are the Sporades so called of lying dispersed among which are Melos Lera Nicaria AEgina and Lemnos vulgarly Stalemine whether they fable that Vulcane was cast downe The Iland Ibea now vulgarly Negroponte is attributed to Greece being separated from the continent with so little distance as it can hardly be named an Iland and it lies close to the City of Athens The Turke hath great part of Asia deuided into Asia the lesser and Asia the greater The lesser is now called Natolia or Anatolia of a Greeke word signifying the East being a kinde of Isthmus or necke of land lying betweene two Seas the Euxine towards the North and the Mediterranean towards the South as it hath the Thracian Bosphorus as passable by an Oxe swimming and Propontis as lying before the Sea and Hellespont the AEgean Sea towards the West and is confined with the Riuer Euphrates towards the East This lesser Asia is all subiect to the Turk and hath 16. Prouinces Bithinia Fōtus Paphlagonia Capadocia Gallatia Frigia the greater lesser Misia Ionia Charia Lidia Pamphilia Lacaonia Licia Cilicia the lesser Armenia Chomagena 1 Bithinia is at this day called Migtonia and the chiefe Cities thereof are Nicea the Metropolitan Citie famous for the Councell in the yeere 314. of 318. Bishops meeting to beat downe the Arrian heresie and there making the Nicene Creed Lybissa where Hannibal was buried Chalcedo where one of the eight olde Councels was held by 530 Bishops Heraclia Nicomedia Phrasso where Esculapius was born and Bursa seated ouer against Constantinople where some Turkish Emperours lye buried and thither the great Turkes eldest sonne is sent to gouerne or in a kinde of exile for he neuer sees his Father more till he be dead and thither he is sent assoone as hee is circumcised 2. Some accompt Pontus for part of Bithinia 3. Paphlagonia is the third Prouince 4. Capadocia the fourth so called of the Riuer Capadocis and the chiefe Citie is Trapesuntium now called Genech And here the Amazones are said to haue liued from the destruction of Troy to the time of Alexander the Great 5 Frigia the lesser was called Frixis of Frixus sonne to the King of Thebes flying with his sister frō his stepmother who moūted on a Ramm with a golden Fleece perhaps a Ship so called his sister being drowned giuing the name to Hellespont and he came himself to this part of Asia which at this day is called Palormi yeelds a most excellent Wine and in this Prouince are Illium or Troy the Mountaines Ida and Tinolus and the Riuer Pactolus The ninth Sybilla that prophesied of Christ was a Frigian and here raigned King Tantalus by couetousnesse leesing the vse of his goods of whom the Poets so fable The greater Frigia is within Land 6 The chiefe Cities of Misia are Traianopolis built by Traian and Adramitbium whereof mentiou is made in the seuenteenth Chapter of the Acts of the Apostles and where Gallene was borne who liued 140 yeeres 7 Gallatia or Gallogrecia was possessed by the Gals vnder Brennus whereof the chiefe City is Laodicia and to this Prouince belongs Pisidia the chiefe City whereof is Antiochia 8 The chiefe Cities of Ionia are Ephesus where was the Temple of Diana which Erostrates a Gothe did burne to be famous Miletum where Thales and Anaximines were borne Smyrna 9 The chiefe City of Charia was of old Halicarnassus in which was the Sepulcher of Mausolius the King held for one of the seuen miracles of the World 10 The chiefe City of Lydia was Sardis where Craesus raigned 11 The chiefe City of Pamphilia was Zelotia and in this Prouince is the Mountaine Chimera vpon the wild top whereof Lyons were found as in the middle part yeelding grasse Goates did feed and in the bottome were Serpents whereof came the fiction of the Monster 12 In Lacaonia of old were these cities Iconium Metrapolitan Lysire where Timothy Saint Pauls Disciple was borne and the Riuer Xanthus runnes through this Prouince 13 Licia lies vpō the Sea between Pamphilia Charia 14 Cylicia lies vnder
among Christians and if he doe yet the sheetes are made of cotten intollerable for heate For in Turkey generally they lie vpon Tapestry Carpets and sometimes in Cities vpon a mattresse with a quilt to couer them and by the high way they lye vpon straw hey or grasse And in all places neere Palestine they either by night lie vpon the house tops on a plastered floare or in yards vpon the earth and in open Ayre hauing the spangled Heauens for their Canopy And not onely passengers but all Turkes daily weare linnen breeches so as in these Prouinces not subiect to cold a man may better endure this poore kind of lodging But the Turkish passengers in stead of Innes haue certsine Hospitals built of stone with Cloysters after the manner of Monasteries where by charitable legacy of Almes all passengers may haue meate for certaine meales or dayes especially the Pilgrims towards Mecha for whose sake they were especially founded And these houses are vulgarly called Kawne or as others pronounce Cain and the couered Cloysters of them built after their manner but one roofe high are common as well to Turkes as any other passengers to lodge in openly and like good fellowes altogether vpon such mattresses as they carry or vpon the bare ground if straw be not to be had For Christian passengers carry such mattresses and necessary victuals which failing they supply them in Cities and euery day in Villages may buy fresh meates but they must dresse their owne meate Neither is the Art of Cookery greater in Turkey then with vs in Wales for toasting of Cheese in Wales and seething of Rice in Turkey will enable a man freely to professe the Art of Cookery No stranger vseth to trauell without a Ianizary or some other to guide him who knowes the places where most commodious lodging is to be had but passengers by the way vse not to goe into Cities but onely to buy fresh meates which done they returne to the Tents of their Carrauan which vse to be pitched in some field adioyning In hot climes neere the Sunne as I haue said in the first Part writing my iourney through Turkey the Turkes there dwelling vse to beginne their iourneys towards the euening and to end them two or three houres after the Sunne rising resting in their Tents all the heat of the day Christian passengers shall doe well to goe to the Italians Friers at Ierusalem and to Merchants their Countreymen or at least to Christians in Citties of traffick and to the Ambassadors or Merchants of their owne Country at Constantinople who being themselues strangers and not ignorant of the euils incident to strangers will no doubt in curtesie direct them to get conuenient lodgings and other necessaries CHAP. II. Of France touching the particular subiects of the first Chapter THE Longitude of France extends thirteene degrees from the Meridian of sixteene degrees to that of twenty nine degrees and the Latitude extends eight degrees from the Paralell of forty two degrees to that of fifty degrees France of old was deuided into Cisalpina and Transalpina In the description of Italy I haue formerly spoken of Cisalpina which was also called Togata of Gownes the Inhabitants wore and Tonsa because they had short haire 1 Transalpina was subdeuided into Comata and Narbonersis Comata so called of their long haire was againe subdeuided into Belgica of which I haue spoken formerly in the description of Netherland into Aquitanica and Celtica or Lugdunensis Aquitanica the second Part of Comata was of old called Aremorica lying vpon the Mountaines Pyrenei and they differ in Language from the French being more like to tie Spaniards next to the Pyreni dwelt the Ansi or Ansitani called vulgarly Guascons comming from Spaine Their chief City is Tolouse where is a famous Vniuersity the Parliament of that Prouince Another City called Bordeaux hath also an Vniuersity but is more famous by the generall concourse of Merchants trading for French Wines Beyond the Riuer Garumna running through the midst of Aquitania dwell the Santones an ancient people whose Countrey is called Santoigne Next lie the Pictones or Pictaui vpon the Riuer Loyer whose Countrey is called Posctou abounding with Fish Fowle and all Game for Hunting and Hawking It hath three chiefe Cities all seates of Bishops Poictiers Lusson and Maillezais The necke of Land adioyning is called Aulone and the Ilands Noir de Chauet De Dieu and Nosire Dame De Bouin c. yeeld great quantity of Salt to be transported The Countrey of the Bituriger is called Berry and the chiefe City Burges of old called Auaricum being an Vniuersity and the Citizens at sixe Faires in the yeere sell great quantity of woollen cloath for the Countrey hath rich pastures feeding many flockes of sheepe of whose wooll this cloath is made besides that it aboundeth also with Wine Corne and all kinds of cattell The City is within Land and is called in Lattin Biturigum of two Towers Next the same lies the Dukedome Burbonois and other small territories Celtica or Lugdunensis another part of Comata containes the part of Transalpina that lies betweene the Riuers Loyer and Seyne beyond which last Riuer France of old extended and included good part of Netherland First towards the West lies the Dukedome Bretaigne which hath three Languages in it selfe all differing from the French The first is of the people called Bretons Bretonnant comming from the English or Cornish Brittons the first Inhabitants and the chiefe Cities are Saint Paul and Treguiers The second people are called Bretons Galot being of Language neere the French and the chiefe Cities are Rhenes where is the Parliament of the whole Dukedome and Dol and Saint Malo The third is mixt of the two former and the City thereof called Nantes is the Dukes seate and chiefe City of the Dukedome From the Sea Coast thereof great quantity of salt made by the heate of the Sunne is transported and there by mynes of Iron and Lead Towards the East lies Normandy so called of Men of the North namely the Cimbri there inhabiting and the chiefe City is Roane Within Land lies Turroyne vpon the Loyer and the chiefe City is Orleance Next lies the little Countrey of France like an Iland betweene two Riuers so called of the Franckes a people of Germany conquering and giuing that name to the whole Kingdome The chiefe City and seate of the Kings is Paris Picardy lies towards the North and the chiefe City is Amiens Vpon France within Land towards the East lies the Prouince Champaigne Next to it lies the Dukedome of Lorrayne the Dukes whereof beare their Armes an Arme armed breaking out of Cloudes and holding a naked Sword to signifie that the Dukes haue supreme power from God alone And the chiefe Cities of the Dukedome are Nancy the seate of the Dukes and Toul and Neufchastell The next Countrey of old esteemed part of Lorrayne was inhabited by the Lingones and by the Mediomatrices and
six Quatrines a Soldo and two Deniers of Genoa a Quatrine 114 Soldi of Milan make a siluer Crowne 20 Soldi a Lire and a Lire and a halfe makes one Lire of Genoa For Turkey The siluer Crowne or Piastro worth fiue shillings English is giuen heere for 70 there for 80 or more Aspers A Meidine of Tripoli is an Asper and an halfe a Meidine of Caiero three Aspers and an Asper some three farthings English For France Twelue Deniers make a Soulz fourteene Soulz and a halfe a Testoone fifteene Soulz a Quart d'escue twenty Soulz a Franke sixtie Soulz a French Crowne or six shillings English AN ITINERARY VVRITTEN By FYNES MORYSON Gent. First in the Latine Tongue AND THEN TRANSLATED By him into ENGLISH AN ITINERARY WRITTEN BY FYNES MORYSON Gent. CONTAINING His ten yeeres trauels thorovv TWELUE DOMINIONS The First Part. The First BOOKE CHAP. I. Of my iourny from London in England to Stode Hamburg Lubeck Luneburg my returne to Hamburg and iourney to Magdeburg Leipzig Witteberg and the neighbouring Cities in Germany BEing a Student of Peter-house in Cambridge and entred the eighteenth yeere of my age I tooke the degree of Bachelar of Arts and shortly after was chosen Fellow of the said Colledge by Queene Elizabeths Mandat Three yeers expired from my first degree taken in the Vniuerfitie I commenced Master of Arts and within a yeere after by the fauour of the Master and Fellowes I was chosen to a vacant place of Priuiledge to studie the Ciuill Lawes Then as well for the ornament of this profession as out of my innated desire to gaine experience by trauelling into forraigne parts to which course my Parents had giuen consent some few yeers past vpon my first declaring of my inclination to the said profession vpon the priuiledge of our Statutes permitting two of the Society to trauell I obtained licence to that purpose of the said Master and Fellowes in the yeere 1589 being then full 23 yeeres old And presently leauing the Vniuersiy I went to London there to follow some studies fit to inable me in this course and there better taught and these studies the visiting of my friends in the Country my going to Oxford to take the same degree I had in Cambridge and some oppositions vpon new deliberation made by my father and friends against my iourney detained me longer in those parts then I purposed At last in the beginning of the yeere 1591 and vpon the first day of May I tooke ship at Liegh distant from London twenty eight miles by land and thirtie six by water where Thames in a large bed is carried into the Sea Thence we set saile into the maine and the eight day of our sailing the Merchants Fleet of sixteene ships being dispersed by a fogge and tempest two Dunkerke Pirats followed our ship till by Gods mercy the fog being cleared after some few houres and two of our ships vpon our discharging of a great Peece drawing towards vs the Pirates despairing left to pursue vs. That they were Pirates was apparant since as wee for triall turned our sayles they likewise fitted themselues to our course so as wee though flying yet prepared our selues to fight till God thus deliuered vs. The ninth day towards night wee fell vpon an Iland called the Holy-land vulgarly Heiligland and not daring to enter the Riuer Elue before the next morning wee strucke all sayles and suffered our ship to bee tossed too and fro by the waues all that night which Marriners call lying at Hull This Iland hath onely one Port capeable of some sixe ships in the forme of the Moone decreasing and lying open to the East On the North side is a great Rocke and the rest of the shore is all of high Cliffes It is subiect to the Duke of Holste and by that title to the King of Denmarke but the inhabitants are so poore as they yeeld no other tribute then stones for the Dukes building It is in circuit some three miles and hath about one hundred Families The tenth day we entred the Riuer Elue and landed at Stode This is an ancient Citie and one of the Empires free Cities and one of those Sea-Townes which from the priuiledge of traffick with their Neighbours are called Free Cities vulgarly Hansteten but of late was become so poore as they had sold the priuiledge of coyning money and some like Rights to Hamburg till the English Merchants remouing their seate of trafficke from Hamburg to Stode it began lately to grow rich not without the enuy and impouerishment of the Hamburgers In the Dutch Inns I paid for each meale foure Lubeck shillings and an halfe and in the English Innes eight pence English In the great winding and troubled Streame of Elue which ebs and flowes as high as Luneburg certaine Booyes are laid to shew the channels and sholes of the Riuer and the maintaining of each of them cost 40 pounds yeerely and of all a thousand pounds at the least at the common charge of Stode and Hamburg but after frosts begin they are taken vp and reserued to the next Spring Of old when Stode flourished this charge belonged onely to it taking some contributions of the other Cities for the same This free Citie had then chosen the Bishop of Breme for their Protector and had but small scattered reuenewes to the value of ninety pounds sterling by the yeere but the soile is so fertile as they milke their Cowes thrice each day Of late the Hamburgers had in vaine attempted by Nauall forces to forbid the arriuall of the English at Stode whom as they had grieued hauing their seate with them as well with exactions as with forbidding them free exercise of Religion so now sometimes by laire treatie sometimes by force they laboured to draw backe vnto them Those of Stode haue by priuiledge the preemption and choice of Rhenish Wines passing by them This Citie might be made strong if the workes they haue begun were perfected The fields of the North and East sides may bee drowned and because the high Hilles towards the West and South though somewhat distant seemed to threaten danger they had on those sides raised an high and broad wall of earth fastned on the out-side with Willowes in which place an Armory for all munitions was built but the gates of the Citie for ridiculous ostentation of strength were furnished with Artillery of stone painted ouer The territory without the City belongs on the West side to the Bishop of Breame and on the East side to the Earle of Scbeneburg and the Duke of Holst From Stode to Hamburg are fiue miles In a Waggon hired for fiue Lubecke shillings each person wee passed two miles then crossing the Elue not without danger in respect of the shallow places and present storme wee hired another Waggon for foure Lubeck shillings each person and through thicke woods passed the other three miles to Hamburg The passage by water to Hamburg had beene much easier especially for
in the morning to twelue We come out at first tenne companions in this iourney but at the very comming out 〈◊〉 six of them left vs despairing to passe against a contrary winde in a foule rainy day and their feet sticking fast in the dirt and they mocked at our obstinacy in going Within a while my selfe was wet to the skinne and my shooes at euery step were almost to the off so as I was forced to binde them on with foure points neither did any of vs looke backe at his fellow to helpe him if hee could not follow and if I should haue fallen into the Sea I am confident none of them would haue come back to succour me After we had gone halfe a mile one of our foure companions being a young man with a blacke beard able body would not goe one foot further though he had but one Stiuer in his purse and was forced to borrow money of vs that he might stay in a poore Ale-house When we came to Aldernsea the Free-booters spies came to the Inne gaped vpon vs so as though I were wet to the skin yet I durst not pull off any thing to dry sest my inward garments better then my vpper should betray my disguise neither durst I call for wine and spend freely lest they should thinke I had store of money Each of vs paied seuen Stiuers for his dinner Here another of our companions left vs being so tired as hee went to bed without eating one bit So as now I had onely one companion left called Anthony a man of little stature and a Citizen of Emden We so be free of this dangerous iourney went forward and as we came out of the Village the Free-booters spies came close to vs and beheld vs narrowly but seeing vs all couered with dirt they tooke vs for poore men and a prey vnfit to be followed Wee gathering vp strength went on till at last wee were so weary as hauing no strength to chuse our way wee cast away our staues and went almost vp to the knees in dirt in the lower way At last hauing gone one mile as me thought wondrous long from one of the clocke in the afternoone to fiue wee came to Emden where my selfe entring the gate could not stand till the Souldiers writ our names but had lyen downe on the ground if they had not giuen mee a seat Now being out of all danger of the Free-booters in giuing my name I wrote my selfe an English-man the standers by not a little wondring that I had put my self to this dangerous passage And truly this iourney if it were free from all danger yet the ill diet and lodging would yeeld trouble enough for which I appeale to Lipsius who hath pleasantly written of the entertainement in West-Phalen and Oldenburg The Citie of Emden lies in the vtmost border of the Empire and is onely diuided by the Riuer Emsz from the vnited Prouince of Netherland and by an Inland Sea from West Freez-land being one of them The Countrey about Emden aboundeth with villages and from a Tower at Goricome a man may see at once vpon a saire day twenty two walled Townes Not farre from this City neere 〈◊〉 is the place where the Duke of Alūa defeated the forces of Lodwick of Nassaw his Dutch-men refusing to fight except they were first paied All the fields about Emden are drowned in winter and the City lying vpon the Sea for want of fresh waters they dresse most of their meat with raine water The aire is very vnhealthfull but the City is fairely built of bricke and the Citizens are very curteous On the South side the Riuer Emsz washeth the City with his salt streames on which side is the Hauen and the Citizens are said to haue some three score ships of a hundred tunnes a peece and some six hundred barkes of their owne In the Church-yard on this side many peeces of Ordinance are laid towards Leere and Dunort the Counts Fort and the like are laid vpon the Hauen and some places of aduantage for the City hath no walles on this side On the West side beyond the water lyeth Marish ground to the mouth of the Sea and vpon this side is a strong old Castle On the North side the City is compassed with a wall of earth and deepe ditches full of water and there be two strong gates Belgar-port and New-port without which the fields are Fenny On this side there is a passage by boat to the suburbes on the East side where the fields without the towne are faire pastures in summer but all ouerflowed in winter and vpon the Rampier of the wall are many Winde-mils The City is of a round forme if it were not somewhat longer from the East to the West At Emden they pay ordinarily six Stiuers a meale three stiuers for a quart of English beere eleuen Stiuers for a quart of Spanish wine thirteene Stiuers a quart of Rhenish wine and seuen Stiuers for French wine my selfe paid for supper and breakfast twenty three Stiuers CHAP. IIII. Of my iourney from Emden in Germany to Leyden in Holland and through the vnited Prouinces of the Low-Countries ON Thursday the twenty seuen of October in the yeere 1592 I tooke ship after dinner at Emden being to saile into West Freesland one of the vnited Prouinces and paied for my passage tenne Stiuers The same night wee cast anchor neere Vrspenhurn a Fort seated beyond the Emsz and belonging to the States of the vnited Prouinces and beyond this Port towards Plaunders on the same side of the Emsz lieth the Territory of the City Groning seated in an Iland rich in pastures and at this time gouerned by a Spanish Garrison which the Citizens had willingly receiued though the States after besieged this City and droue out the Spaniards and vnited the City to the rest As we lay at Anchor two little Ilands lay on the North side one subiect to Emden the other to Groning and beyond them lay the German Sea On Friday wee set saile with a scant winde and towards night were left vpon a Flat vulgarly called Gat where the water forsaking vs we walked out of the ship vpon the sand compassed round about with the Sea till the same flowing backe againe our ship floated On Saterday we set saile againe and towards night rested vpon a like Flat expecting the floud Three of these Flats are in this Inland sea and there be two like Flats in the Inland sea beteene Freesland and Holland At last wee landed on Sunday in Freesland at the Village Aniou lying neere the Sea shore whether wee hired a sledge for eight stiuers and were drawne thither ouer the yce and snow After we had dined for twelue stiuers each man whereof more then halfe was reckoned for drinke we went in a skeut by water in foure houres space one mile to Dockam and each man paid for his passage foure stiuers and a halfe we could not passe
by the way I obserued that the vvaggons hauing past more then halfe the way must haue the way giuen them by all the waggons they meet because their horses should in reason be most weary At Harlam I paied for supper bed and breakfast twenty fiue stiuers Hence I vvent by vvaggon and paied for my part of it sixteene stiuers for three miles to Amsterdam and there receiuing my money returned to Harlam drawne ouer the snow and ice which had plentifully fallen on a sledge for which I paid foure stiuers and I obserued many markes set vp in the fields to direct the way to passengers From Harlam I returned to Leyden where I lodged in a French-mans house for intending to bestow all my time in the French tongue till by Letters I should dispose of my estate in England and there being a famous Vniuersity in this City I found no abiding fitter for me then this I paid for my diet and chamber in this French-mans house three guidens and fifteene stiuers weekely but in the common Innes they pay ten or fifteene stiuers a meale according to the quantity of beere they drinke and ordinarily twenty stiuers or more if they drinke wine Leyden is so called of the words Legt bey de dunen that is lieth by the Downes so they call the sandy bankes of the Sea as the English doe likewise in Kent Leyden is of a round forme or perhaps somewhat longer from the East to the West where the Rheine passeth by it It is a City of much beauty the houses are very fairely built of bricke and be vniforme The Churches are couered with long slates as they be almost through all Holland and among the streetes one is much fairer then the rest in the middest whereof is a peece of ground railed in where the Merchants meet Many streetes are diuided with waters which are passed by woodden bridges and in deede if a man dig two foote in any part of Holland he shall find water I said that the Rheine passeth by this City yet doth it not fall into the Sea but leeseth it selfe in many standing ditches of water in this low part of the continent Toward the North-west about a mile from the City there is the end of a ditch digged of old from the very City vulgarly called Malgatt because the Citizens spent much treasure in a vaine hope to make a Hauen for ships and a nauigable water to come vp to the Towne for the heapes of sand daily cast vp by the Sea filled the place vp where they thought to haue made the Hauen as fast as they could dig it yet was it long before they would cease from this ill aduised worke Notwithstanding salt water comes vnder the earth from the Sea into this ditch and they carry the same vnto the City to make salt thereof Vpon the same Sea-shore towards the North and like distance from the City is a Village called Catwicke seated vpon Mountaines of sands on the maine sea Vpon the same shore further towards the North is a place where they say the Romans of old had an Armory the ruines whereof some musket shot from the shore more or lesse appeare as the wind couers them with sand or blowing from another quarter driues away the sand and so laies them open Hereabouts they say that many coines of the Romans are oftentimes digged vp and neere the Hoch-landish Church is a Monument built by Caligula the Emperour which now belongs to a Gentleman of that Countrey Vpon the North side of this city the Villages Warmond and Nortwicke lie vpon the aforesaid Downes but the City hath no gate that directly leades to them Leyden hath fiue gates Regenspurgport on the West side which leadeth to Harlam and to Catwicke and white port which leadeth to Hage betweene which gates there is a low water-gate of iron grates for boates to passe in and out Neere White Port lies a house where they exercise shooting with the Peece and Crosse-bow On the South side is the gate Kow-port leading into the pastures Vpon the East side is the gate Hochwertz-port more fortified then any of the rest and it leadeth to Vberden Gonda and to Alphen There is another gate Zillport which leadeth ro Vtretcht whither you passe by water or land The foresaid street which I said was the beauty of the Towne lieth from the West to Hochwertzport on the East side and is called Breitstrat that is Broadstreete In the spring time of the yeere 1593 purposing to see the Cities of the vnited Prouinces I hired a Waggon for sixe stiuers and went from Leyden to Delph three miles in three houres space through corne fields and rich pastures and hauing gone two third parts of the way we passed ouer the water that runnes from Leyden to Delph In all these parts the high way hath ditches on both sides and is very plaine sandy and very dry being daily repaired by the countrey people By the way is a mill in which they make oyle of rape and line seedes mingled with wallnut shels and they haue many such miles in those parts Not farre of at Voberg the Histories write of a holy Groue famous for a conspiracy against the Romans The City of Delph lyeth in length from the North to the South and the falrest street called Corne-mart lies the same way Here as in all the Cities of these parts the buildings are of bricke but the houses of Delph are more stately built and seeme to haue more antiquity then other where In the New Church is a Monument of the Prince of Orange the poorest that euer I saw for such a person being onely of rough stones and morter with posts of wood coloured ouer with black and very little erected from the ground Neere the Church is a large market-place and within a little Iland the Senate house is built The Hauen is on the South side The Prince of Orange dwelt heere in a Monastery and vsed to eat in a low parlor whence as he ascended the staires into the chamber a wicked murtherer gaue him his deaths wound who flying by a backe doore was after taken in the Citie and put to a most cruell but most deserued death The Countesse of Buren daughter to this said Prince now liued in this Monastery with her family Here I paied for one meale for my selfe and a guest inuited by me and two pots of Rhenish wine three guldens and fiue stiuers When the Spanish Army most pressed the vnited Prouinces the Prince of Orange then lying here to shunne a greater mischiefe from the Spaniards brake downe the bankes of the sea and let in the waters which did much hurt to the Countrey but saued them from the Spaniards who with great feare hasted away giuing great rewards to those that guided them to the firme continent At Delph are about three hundred Brewers and their beere for the goodnesse is called Delphs-English but howsoeuer they had Brewers and the very
water out of England they could neuer make their beere so much esteemed as the English which indeed is much bettered by the carriage ouer sea to these parts Hence I went to Sluse so called of the damme to let waters in and out and came thither in two houres paying for my waggon thirteene stiuers which I hired alone for if I had light vpon company we should haue paied no more betweene vs. Hence I passed the Riuer Mase where it falleth into the sea and came to Brill my selfe and two others paying twelue stiuers for our passage but the barke being presently to returne and therefore not entring the Port set vs on land neere the Towne whether we walked on foot Brill is a fortified Towne laid in pledge to Queene Elizabeth for money she lent the States and it was then kept by foure English Companies paid by the Queene vnder the gouernment of the Lord Burrowes The Towne is seated in an Iland which was said to bee absolute of it selfe neither belonging to Zealand nor Holland On the North side the Riuer Mase runneth by On the East side are corne fieldes and the Riuer somewhat more distant On the South side are corne fields On the West side are corne fields and the maine Sea little distant Here I paied for my supper and dinner twenty stiuers and for a pot of wine eighteene stiuers From hence I returned by water to Roterodam in Holland and paied for my passage three stiuers In the mouth of the Riuer of Roterodam lies the City Arseldipig and another called Delphs-Ile being the Hauen of Delph which was then a pleasant Village but growing to a City and hauing beene lately burnt by fire was fairely rebuilded Roterodam lies in length from the East to the West The Hauen is on the South side being then full of great ships vpon which side it lay open without walles hauing many faire houses and a sweet walke vpon the banke of the water Neither is it fortified on the sides towards the land nor seemed to mee able to beare a siege hauing low walles on the North and East sides yet compassed with broad ditches The street Hoch-street is faire and large extending it selfe all the length of the Citie and lying so as from the gate at the one end you may see the gate at the other end and in this street is the Senate house In the market place toward the West is the statua of Erasmus being made of wood for the Spaniards brake downe that which was made of stone and the inscription thereof witnesseth that hee was borne at Roterodame the twenty eight of October in the yeere 1467 and died at Bazel the twelfth of Iuly in the yeere 1531. In New-Kirk-street there is the house in vvhich Erasmus was borne vvherein a Taylor dwelled at this time and vpon the vvall thereof these Verses are written AEdibus his natus mundum decorauit Erasmus Artibus ingenuis Religione side The world Erasmus in this poore house borne With Arts Religion Faith did much adorne The same Verses also vvere vvritten in the Flemmish tongue and vpon the vvall vvas the picture of Erasmus Vpon the same West side is the house for exercise of shooting in the Peece and Crosse-bow The vvaters of Roterodam and Delph being neere the sea are more vvholesome then the standing waters within land Heere I lodged at an English-mans house and paied for my supper tenne stiuers for my breakfast two stiuers and for beere betweene meales fiue stiuers by which expence compared vvith that of the Flemmish Innes it is apparant that strangers in their reckonings pay for the intemperate drinking of their Dutch companions From hence I went by sea three miles to Dort in two houres space to which City we might haue gone great part of the way by vvaggon as farre as Helmund but then we must needs haue crossed an Inland sea for the City is seated in an Iland hauing beene of old diuided from the continent of Holland in a great floud The forme of the City resembles a Galley the length whereof lies from the East to the West Wee landed vpon the North side lying vpon the sea where there be two gates but of no strength On the East side is the New gate Reydike and beyond a narrow water lye fenny grounds On the South side the ditch is more narrow yet the sea ebbs and flowes into it and vpon old walles of stone is a conuenient walking place On this side is the gate Spey-port and beyond the ditch lye fenny grounds On the West side is the gate Feld-port and a like walke vpon walles of stone and there is a greater ebbing and flowing of the sea There is a great Church built of bricke and couered with slate being stately built vvith Arched cloysters and there of old the Counts of Holland were consecrated From this part the two fairest streets Reydike-strat and Wein-strat lie windingly towards the North. Turning a little out of the faire street Reydike-strat towards the South lies the house for exercise of shooting in the Peece Crosse-bow and there by is a very pleasant groue vpon the trees vvhereof certaine birds frequent which we call Hearnes vulgarly called Adhearne or Regle and their feathers being of great price there is a great penalty set on them that shall hurt or annoy those birds There is a house vvhich retaines the name of the Emperor Charles the fift and another house for coyning of money for the Counts of Holland vvere vvont to coyne money at Dort as the Counts of Zealand did at Midleburg Betweene the faire streets Reydike-strat and Wein-strat is the Hauen for ships to be passed ouer by bridges and there is a market place and the Senate house vvhich hath a prospect into both these streets The houses are higher built then other where in Holland and seeme to be of greater Antiquity This Citie by priuiledge is the staple of Rhenish vvines vvhich are from hence carried to other Cities so as no imposition being here paied for the same the pot of Rhenish wine is sold for twelue stiuers for which in other places they pay eighteene or twenty stiuers For three meales I paied heere thirty stiuers From hence I vvent by water to the States Campe besieging Getrudenberg and came thither in two houres space but the vvindes being very tempestuous wee saw a boat drowned before vs out of which one man onely escaped by swimming who seemed to me most wretched in that hee ouer-liued his wife and all his children then drowned The besieged City lies in the Prouince of Brabant and the County of Buren being the inheritance of the Prince of Orange by right of his wife and in this Month of Iune it was yeelded to Count Maurice the Spanish Army lying neere but not being able to succour it The Sea lying vpon this part of Brabant was of old firme land ioined to the continent till many villages by diuers floods and seuenteene
Vpon the same South side within the wals is a faire market place and the Pallace of the Venetian Gouernour which Gouernour in Italy is vulgarly called Il Podesta And necre the wals on this side lies a stately Monument of an old Amphitheater at this day little ruined vulgarly called Harena and built by Luc Flaminius though others say it was built by the Emperour Octauius It passeth in bignesse all the old Amphitheaters in Italy and the outside thereof is of Marble and the inner side with all the seates is of bricke It is of an ouall forme and the inner yard is sixety three walking paces long and forty eight broade where the lowest seates are most narrow whence the seates arise in forty foure staires or degrees howsoeuer others write that there be onely forty two degrees and they so arise as the vpper is still of greater circuit then the lower And the shoppes of the Citizens built on the outside vnder the said increase of the inner circuit haue about fifty two walking paces in bredth which is to be added to make the full breadth of the inside It hath eighteene gates and betweene euery Arch are very faire statuaes and the seates within the same are said to bee capable of twentie three thousand one hundred eightie and foure beholders each one hauing a foote and a halfe allowed for his seate Each one of vs gaue two gagetti to the keeper of this monument Alboinus King of the Lombards was killed by his wife at Verona In the Monastery of Saint Zeno is a Monument erected to Pipin sonne to Charles the Great and betweene this Monastery and the next Church in a Church yard vnder the ground is the Monument of Queene Amalasaenta Barengarius King of Italy was killed at Verona and this City braggeth of two famous Citizens namely the old Poet Catullus and Guarinus a late writer The territorie of this Citie is most fruitfull abounding with all necessaries for life and more specially with rich Wines particularly the Retian wine much praised by Pliny and preferred to the Wine of Falernum by Virgill which the Kings of the Gothes were wont to carrie with them as farre as Rome It is of a red colour and sweet and howsoeuer it seemes thicke more fit to be eaten then drunke yet it is of a most pleasant taste The Lake Bennaeus is much commended for the store of good Carpes and other good fish besides this territory yeelds very good marble Here I paid forty soldi for my supper and sixteene soldi for the stable that is for hay and straw and eighteene soldi for three measures of Oates Certaine Gentlemen bearing me company from Paduoa to this City and being to returne thither did here each of them hire a horse for three lires and a halfe to Vicenza where they were to pay for their horse meat From hence I rode fifteene miles to the Castle Peschiera built by the old Lords of Verona and seated vpon the Lake Bennacus vulgarly called Il Lago di Gardo where they demanded of me two quatrines for the passage of a bridge but when I shewed them my Matricula that is a paper witnessing that I was a scholler of Paduoa they dismissed me as free of all Tributes And in like sort by the same writing I was freed at Paduoa from paying six soldi and at Verona from paying eight soldi I rode from this Castle seuen miles to a Village seated vpon the same Lake famous for the pleasant territory and the aboundance of good fish and here I paid twenty soldi for my dinner and eight soldi for my horse meat All my iourney this day was in a most sweet plaine rising still higher with faire distances so as the ascent could hardly be seene After dinner I rode eighteene miles to Brescia which City flourished vnder thelold Emperours of Italy then was subiect to the Lombards and tyrant Kings of Italy and they being ouercome to Charles the Great and French Gouernours then to the Westerne Emperours of Germany and to the Italian family of the Berengarij And it obtained of the Emperour Otho the priuiledge to be a free City of the Empire till being wasted by the factions of the Guelphi and Gibellini the Scaligeri a family of the same City made themselues Lords thereof whom the Vicounts of Milan cast out of the Citie and when Phillip Maria Duke of Milan oppressed the City and would not be induced to ease the same of his great impositions they yeelded themselues in the yeere 1509 to the French King who had defeated the Venetian Army Then by the French Kings agreement with the Emperour Maximiltan the Citie was giuen into the Emperours hands whose Nephew the Emperour Charles the fifth restored the same to the French King Francis the first who likewise in the yeere 1517 gaue the same into the hands of the Venetians The most fruitfull territorie of Brescia hath mines of Iron and brasse and I thinke so many Castles Villages and Houses so little distant the one from the other can hardly be found else where The Brooke Garza runs through the City which is of a round forme and is seated for the most part in a plaine and towards the North vpon the side of a mountaine where a Tower is built which hath many houses adioining and in this Tower or Castle the Venctian Gouernour dwels who takes an oath that he will neuer goe out of the same till a new Gouernour be sent from Venice The Cities building is of bricke the streetes are large and are paued with flint Boniface Bembus was a Citizen of Brescia and the Brescians as also the Citizens of Bergamo are in manners and customes more like the French their old Lords then the other Italians farther distant from France and the very weomen receiue and giue salutations and conuerse with the French liberty without any offence to their husbands which other Italians would neuer indure Here I paid forty soldi for my supper and forty soldi for foure measures of oates and for the stable From hence I rode thirty two miles to Bergamo and as the territories in this part of Italy lying vpon the South sunne which beats vpon the sides of the hils and mountaines with great reflection of heat and vpon the other side defended from the cold windes of the North and East by the interposition of the Alpes are singularly fruitfull and pleasant so for the first twenty miles of this daies iourney they seemed to me more pleasant then the very plaine of Capua yeelding plenty of corne and of vines growing vpon Elmes in the furrowes of the lands which Elmes are planted in such artificiall rowes as the prospect thereof much delighteth the eye And the other twelue miles were yet more pleasant being tilled in like sort and towards my iournies end yeelding most large and rich pastures The City Bergamo after the Roman Empire was extinct first obeyed the Lombards then the French and following the fortune
ridiculous and that they were in great part vndertaken by bankerouts and men ofbase condition I might easily iudge that in short time they would become disgracefull whereupon I changed my mind For I remembred the Italian Prouerbe La bellezza di putana la forza del'fachino c. nulla vagliano that is the beauty of a Harlot the strength of the Porter and to omit many like Musicke it selfe and all vertues become lesse prized in them who set them out to sale Also I remembred the pleasant fable that Iupiter sent raine vpon a Village wherewith whosoeuer was wet became a foole which was the lot of all the Inhaitants excepting one man who by chance for dispatching of businesse kept within doores that day and that when he came abroad in the euening all the rest mocked him as if they had beene wise and he onely foolish so as he was forced to pray vnto Iupiter for another like shower wherein he wetted himselfe also chusing rather to haue the loue of his foolish neighbours being a foole then to be dispised of them because he was onely wise And no doubt in many things wee must follow the opinion of the common people with which it is better regarding onely men to be foolish then alone to be wise I say that I did for the aforesaid causes change my mind and because I could not make that vndone which was done at least I resolued to desist from that course Onely I gaue out one hundred pound to receiue three hundred at my returne among my brethren and some few kinsmen and dearest friends of whom I would not shame to confesse that I receiued so much of gift And lest by spending vpon the stocke my patrimony should be wasted I moreouer gaue out to fiue friends one hundred pound with condition that they should haue it if I died orafter three yeeres should repay it with one hundred and fifty pound gaine if I returned which I hold a disaduantageous aduenture to the giuer of the money Neither did I exact this money of any man by sute of Law after my returne which they willingly and presently paid me onely some few excepted who retaining the very money I gaue them deale not therein so gentleman-like with me as I did with them And by the great expences of my iourny much increased by the ill accidents of my brothers death and my owne sickenesse the three hundred fifty pounds I was to receiue of gain after my return the one hundred pounds which my brother and I carried in our purses would not satisfie the fiue hundred pound we had spent though my brother died within the compasse of the first yeere but I was forced to pay the rest out of my owne patrimony Gentle Reader I will no longer trouble thee with these trifles onely in the behalfe of them who for a reasonable gaine and vpon long iournies and not vpon ridiculous aduentures haue put out their mony in this sort Giue leaue to me howsoeuer I desisted from that course to adde this All manners of attire came first into the City and Countrey from the Court which being once receiued by the common people and by very Stage-players themselues the Courtiers iustly cast off and take new fashions though somewhat too curiously and whosoeuer weares the old men looke vpon him as vpon a picture in Arras hangings For it is prouerbially said that we may eate according to our owne appetite but in our apparell must follow the fashion of the multitude with whom we liue But in the meane time it is not reproch to any who of old did were those garments when they were in fashion In like sort many daunces and measures are vsed in Court but when they come to be vulgar and to be vsed vpon very stages Courtiers and Gentlemen think them vncomely to be vsed yet is it no reproch to any man who formerly had skill therein To conclude that I may not trouble you with like examples which are infinite I say that this manner of giuing out mony vppon these aduentures was first vsed in Court and among the very Noble men and when any of them shewed thereby extraordinary strength the most censorious approued it but when any performed a long iourny with courage and discretion no man was found who did not more or lesse commend it according to the condition of the iourney performed Now in this age if bankerouts Stage-players and men of base condition haue drawne this custome into contempt I grant that Courtiers and Gentlemen haue reason to forbeare it yet know not why they should be blamed who haue thus put out their mony in another age when this custome was approued A man may iustly say it is great iniustice that our actions should be measured by opinion and not by reason but when a man leaues any custome that hath beene approued left hee should oppose himselfe to the common people a monster of many heads the most enuious hath nothing whereat they may iustly carpe And if any measure may be imposed to detracters surely they must spare them who vndertake long voyages ful of great dangers who doe not put out their money in Tauernes or at feasts to any man without distinction but dispose of their money with their friends vpon reasonable aduenture of gaine which in absence they cannot otherwise dispose to profit Finally who being not rich by patrimony take these iournies onely for experience and to be inabled to that expence doe condition this reasonable gaine I say the detracters must spare these and distinguish them from others who make cursorie iournies without any desire to better their vnderstanding thereby and more from those who in these courses rather make triall of their bodies strength then of their mindes abilitie And most of all from those who expose themselues to the scorne of men by base and ridiculous aduentures or that little differ from selfe-murtherers in vndertaking desperate actions for gaine In the same yere 1595 wherein some few months past I returned into England from my former iourney I now set forth againe towards Ierusalem and vpon the twentie nine of Nouember after the old stile I and my brother consort of my iourney went by water twentie miles which are seuenteene miles by land from London to Grauesend in a boat with two Oares for which we payed two shillings sixe Pence At last the winde seruing vs vpon the seuenth of December in the euening we set saile at an ebbing water and vpon the eighth of December in the afternoon hauing passed the Riuer Thames wee cast anchor vpon the shoare of England right before the Village Margets Then in the twilight of the euening wee put to Sea and the ninth of December entring the narrow Sea of Zealand vpon our call a boat came out of Vlishing to vs in which we went thither leauing our ship which went forward to Midleburg and each man paying a doller for his passage The eleuenth of December
we walked on foot one mile to Midleburge where being inuited by our friends as we were at Vlishing we supped on free cost The twelfth day wee passed by Sea in two houres space to Armuren where wee cast anchor not without feare of Spanish Pirats who comming with small boates out of the Castle Wouda did then many robberies vpon this Sea The thirteenth day in the morning wee sailed nine miles to the Iland Plat where a Man of warre sent out by the States against these Pirats did lie at anchor vnder the guard whereof we also lay at anchor the night following The fourteenth day in the morning hauing alwaies a faire winde wee sailed eight milcs to Delphs hauen in Holland where we left our Barke and each man payed twelue stiuers for his passage and my selfe gaue three stiuers to a Marriner that had attended me From hence my selfe and three consorts hired a Wagon for 18 stiuers to the Hage where I payed for my supper a Flemish guilden and seuenteene stiuers The fiftenth day of December which after the new stile was Christmas day that Feast by the old stile falling on the twentie fiue of December my selfe and three consorts hired a Wagon for two guldens for two long miles to Leyden From Leyden at a set hower euery day boates passe to all the next Cities and we entring the boat that went for Amsterdam payed each of vs 6 stiuers for our passage First wee passed fiue miles vpon the Lake called Harlam Meare which Lake is much subiect to Tempests Our boate was then drawne by force of hands ouer a Damme into a Channell of water in which we passed two miles and so came to Amsterdam The boates are thus drawne out of the Lake into the Channell by a priuiledge granted to Harlam because that Citie had spent much money in the workes for conueyance of waters And this was granted to them to the ende that this passage being shut vp to Barkes of greater burthen the Merchants wares passing by land should be forced to come by Harlam We lodged in a English Merchants house at Amsterdam and payed eight stiuers for each meale The seuenteenth of December we entred a little ship to saile out of Holland into West-Freesland but being almost frozen in with yce after wee had sailed two dayes and a night with great danger through huge pieces of yce and were the second night also compassed therewith and had been forced to lie at anchor a good space we hardly arriued the third day at Horne in North Holland which Citie is fiue miles distant from Amsterdam and each man payed ten stiuers for our passage and two stiuers for the vse of a little cabbin in the ship The ninteenth day we would needs go on foot two miles as long as ten English miles to Enchnsen because they asked foure guldens and a half for a Wagon And in the mid way it hapned that we light vpon a sledg which wee 4 consorts hired for 20 stiuers and therin wee were all carried but for my part I paied 5 stiuers more for the cariage of my necessaries And we could not sufficiently maruell at our first setting forth that the Villages should be so frequent in such an obscure Countrey as wee could hardly see how they were parted one from the other for halfe the way at least From hence we sailed with a very faire wind in three houres space two miles to Stauern a Village seated in West Freezland and each man paid ten stiuers for his passage foure for his supper and foure for beere The next day we passed on foot one mile of Freezland which miles are exceeding long to Warcome and we hired two Clownes for two guldens to carry our necessaries which Clownes drinking stoutly all the night we were forced beyond our bargaine to pay for their intemperance which wrong we could not auoid though we much repined at it Early in the morning we passed by water one mile ouer a Lake to Bolsworth and each man paid two stiuers and a halfe for his passage and eight stiuers and a halfe for his dinner In the afternoone we hired a boat for three miles to Lewerden and each man paid sixe stiuers for his passage and thirty foure stiuers for his supper and breakefast with wine The next day in the morning we might haue passed to Groning in a common boat each man paying twelue stiuers but because the couetous Marriners had ouerloaded it and the winds were boisterous we foure consorts hired a priuate boate for seuen guldens and a halfe The first day we passed by water fiue miles to Kaltherberg that is the cold Inne with a very faire wind but so boysterous as we were in no small feare Here each man paid twelue stiuers for his supper and seuen stiuers for his drinke while in good fellowship we sate at the fier after supper The next day we passed in the same boat two miles to Groning in a great tempest of wind besides that in the midst of the Lake we lost our Rudder being thereby in great danger had not the waues of the water by Gods mercy driuen it to vs. Here we paid eight stiuers each man for a plentifull dinner but without wine In the afternoone we passed by water two miles to Delphs I le and each man paid forty stiuers for the hier of the boate and twenty foure stiuers for supper and breakefast and fire in our priuate chamber From hence we sayled with a most faire wind in two houres space two miles to Emden the first City of the German Empire seated in East Friezland and each man paid sixe stiuers for his passage and as much for his dinner In the afternoone we passed in a boat hired for foure guldens whereof each man paid ten stiuers for his part three miles to a little City Lyre and by the way passed by the Fort Nordlire in which the Earle of Emden held his Court. We rested at Lyre this night and the next day being Christmas day by the old stile and each man paid sixteene stiuers for each supper and eight stiuers for one dinner The Spanish Garisons daily sent out free-booters into these parts with the permission of the Earle of Emden for his hatred to the Citizens of Emden who lately had shut him out of their City and of the Earle of Oldenburge for his hatred against the Citizens of Breme Therefore we being here many passengers did at last obtaine of the Earle of Emden that we might hier his souldiers to conduct vs safely for some few miles To these souldiers we gaue twenty one dollers yet when at the three miles end we came to the Village Stickhausen and were now in the greatest danger they as hired to goe no further would needes returne till each of vs gaue them a German gulden to conduct vs onely to the next village being the confines of the Counties of Emdens and Oldenburg To which they were perswaded not so much by our prayers as by
store of Dolphins did againe swimme about our ship which they say doe foretell that the winde will blow from that quarter whether they swimme and the same daie in the maine Sea greater Dolphins and in greater number did play about our ship On Thurseday in the morning we did leaue on the South side the Iland Zante subiect to the Venetians and seuentie miles distant from Cephalania the description of which Iland I deferre to my returne this way and so we sailed close by the shoare of Peloponesus or Morea on the North side Peloponesus is almost an Iland ioyned on the North side to Achaia by a narrow neck of land which many of old haue attempted to cut and to make that Prouince an Iland and it containeth large Counties or Territories of Greece Wee sayling along the South side of this Prouince did see the Cities Coron Modon and Nauarin and somewhat lower towards the South was a little Iland called Striualli which is barren and inhabited by Grecian Monks called Caloiri who came out to vs in a boat to begge almes and the Patron of our ship in honour of our Lady or Virgin Marie of Striualli saluted the Iland with some pieces of Ordinance Vpon Friday the tenth of May we sailed by the foresaid City Modon seated in Greece and one hundred miles distant from the Iland Zante The eleuenth day in the morning we sailed by the Promontory called the Cape of Modon and within sixe howers sailing were out of the sight of any part of Morea But in the euening we came to the Cape of S. Iohn the first Promontory of the Iland Candia distant some one hundred and fifty miles I alwaies vnderstand Italian miles being now amongst the Italians from Modon the foresaid Citie of Morea and these high Mountaines of Candia were yet couered on the top with snow We sayled on the South side of Candia and towards euening passed by the middle part of the Iland and the thirteenth day by nine of the clock in the morning wee sailed by the Cape of Salomon being towards the East the furthest part of Candia the description of which Iland I deferre to my comming backe that way At this time our Marriners aswell Greekes as Italians were greatly offended with one of our French Consorts a Lay man because at dinner time according to the negligent fashion of the French he turned the cleane side of his trencher vpward for of all men the Marriners and of all Marriners the Greekes and Italians are most superstitious and if any thing in the ship chance to be turned vp-side downe they take it for an ill signe as if the ship should be ouerwhelmed Otherwise I neuer obserued that either the chiefe or inferiour Mariners euer vsed the least disrespect to any passenger being rather louing and familiar to them in conuersation And I remember that my brother Henry vsing to walke vpon the highest hatches the Patron and Scriuano and others did with smiling obserue his fast walking and melancholy humour yet howsoeuer it was troublesome to them did onely once and that curteously reproue him or rather desire him that he would haue respect to the Mariners who watched al night for the publike safety and were then sleeping vnder the hatches Alwaies vnderstand that a man may not bee so bold in another mans house as in his owne and may yet lesse be bold in a ship of strangers and that an vnknowne passenger must of all other be most respectiue And whereas Mariners are held by some to be theeuish surely in the Hauen at the iournies end where theeues easily find receiuers it is good to be wary in keeping that belongs to you but at sea no place is more safe then a shippe where the things stolne are easily found and the offenders seuerely punished On Sunday the nineteenth of May we came to the first Promontory of the Iland Cyprus towards the West and after eight houres sayling we came to the old City Paphos or Paphia now called Baffo and the wind failing vs and gently breathing vpon this Castle of Venus we houered here all the next night gaining little or nothing on our way This place is most pleasant with fruitfull hils and was of old consecrated to the Goddesse Venus Queene of this Iland and they say that Adamants are found here which skilfull Iewellers repute almost as precious as the Orientall A mile from this place is the Caue wherein they faigne the seuen sleepers to haue slept I know not how many hundred yeeres The twenty one of May towards the euening we entred the Port of Cyprus called Le Saline the two twentith day obtaining licence of the Turkish Cady to goe on land we lodged in the Village Larnica within a Monastery of European Friars Here some of vs being to saile to Ioppa and thence to goe by land to Ierusalem did leaue the Venetian ship which sailed forward to Scanderona The Turkes did conquer the Iland Ciprus from the Venetians in the yeere 1570 and to this day possesse it the chiefe Cities whereof are Nicosia seated in the middest of the Iland and Famogosta seated in the furthest part of the Iland towards the East The Turkish Basha or Gouernour vseth to chuse Famogosta for his seate though Nicosia be the fairer City because it hath a good Hauen and a most strong Fort which the Venetians built The Iland lieth two hundred forty miles in length from the west to the East and hath some eighty miles in bredth six hundred miles in compasse This Iland is said to be distant some foure hundred miles from the Iland of Candia which is some two hundred and thirty miles long but I speake of the next Promontories in both of them and from Venice some two thousand two hundred and twenty miles from Alexandria in AEgypt some foure hundred and fifty miles from Alexandretta at this day called Scanderona the Hauen of Caramania eighty miles from Tripoli of Syria ninety miles and from Ioppa a Hauen in Palestina about two hundred and fifty miles speaking of the vttermost Promontories on all sides This Iland yeeldeth to no place in fruitfulnesse or pleasure being inriched with Corne Oile Cheese most sweet Porkes Sheepe hauing tailes that weigh more then twenty pound Capers growing vpon pricking bushes Pomegranats Oranges and like fruites Canes or Reedes of sugar which they beat in mils drawing out a water which they seeth to make sugar with rich wines but gnawing or burning the stomacke odoriferous Cipres trees whereof they make siers store of Cotton and many other blessings of nature Neere the Promontory Del'Gatto so called of Cats that vse to kill Serpents they take Falcons which Hawkes the Gouernours are commanded to send to Constantinople They sowe corne in the moneth of October and reape it in Aprill I know not how it comes to passe that in this Iland of Venus all fruites taste of salt which Venus loued well And I thought that this
liued in the Church and that shee would not refuse any opportunity to goe backe into Spaine but otherwise would die there thereby thought to merit much of God Neither doe I thinke shee lost the hope of this vaine merit since it was not easie to find a man who would carry an old woman and beare her charges so long a iourney The stone of vnction in the Church is common to all the nine Christian sects neither doe the Keepers of any other monuments refuse any Christian to enter into them but onely by priuiledge keepe their Altars priuate to themselues Most of the sects haue their Monasteries in the City and as I formerly said each of them hath the priuiledge to keepe some monuments as well within as without the wals But some of the sects only come to Ierusalem at solemne feasts and dwelling neere the City easily maintaine a Friar or two to keepe their monuments and so are freed from the necessity of building a monastery in the City Vpon Wednesday the twelfth of Iune towards euening the Turkes did open the Church to let vs out and each of vs Lay-men gaue the chiefe Turke thirty meidines and the Doore-keeper twenty of free gift and for the waxe candles burnt the night before in the Church each gaue sixty meidines to one of our Italian Friars This done we returned to the Monastery where we lodged with great ioy that we were presently to goe backe to Ioppa I formerly said that the Franciscan Friars with whom we lodged were of Europe whether at three yeeres end they were to be recalled and some fifty new Friars to be sent hither in their place which still each third yeere vse to be changed And these Friars are called the Family of Frankes for the great Turke permits them as French to liue there and forbids the comming of any Spanish or Roman Friars yet are they for the most part of Sicily Naples or Rome but denying their Countrey affirme that they are Venetians and if they were knowne to be subiects to Spaine or Rome they should incurre great danger Of them some few are indeed Venetians and at this time some two were Frenchmen All these liue of the aimes of the Merchants in the East of their Religion who for the most part are Italians and especially Venetians yet hath the Monastery also some rents of Lands giuen to it of old in Sicily and in Spaine and from thence they bring with them euery third yeere at their first arriuall a present of great value to the Turkish Ottoman I said formerly that of old the Venetians yeerly sent a gally to carry Pilgrimes to the Holy Land till the Christians were so oppressed by exactions of the Turkes as they rarely vndertooke that iourney and so the Venetians also left that custome From that time this Family of Frankes so these Friars are called vseth to passe in a Venetian ship to Cyprus and from thence to Ioppa in the Holy Land hiring there a Graecian barke to that purpose and in like sort the old Family vpon the arriuall of the new returnes into Italy And as soone as this family arriueth they disperce themselues the greater part abiding at Ierusalem and Bethlehem and some single men or couples being sent to doe the office of Priests at Cayro or Babylon in Egypt at Haleppo in Asia where most part of their Merchants reside and at Scanderona of old by all and still by Christians called Alexandretta These Friars thus dispersed are not onely maintained by the Merchants to whom the are sent but they also send from them large almes to the rest at Ierusalem and they often change places that all may equally beare these burthens We being now to take our iourney from Ierusalem many Christians and Iewes brought vs diuers toies to buy and carry with vs being of no worth saue onely that they were far fetcht namely beades for Papists to number their praiers and also crosses both made of the earth whereof they say Adam was formed or of the Oliue trees of Mount Oliuet or of Terebinth vnder one of which trees they say the Virgin Mary rested when shee carried Christ an Infant to be presented in the Temple and round stones called Cornioli of yellow colour and others of white called the Sea-water of India Also girdles of the Virgin Mary glistering stones of little price as all the rest are Among which they attribute to the stone of Indea the vertue to prouoke vrine to the Eagle stone called Aquilina the vertue to expell poyson to facilitate the birth of children to heale the falling sicknesse to restore woemens milke and so to diuers stones diuers and incredible vertues Besides our Franciscan Friars gaue each to his friend and the Guardian to vs all Agnos Dei Dust and little stones taken from the foresaid monuments for a great treasure to be carried to our friends at home Moreouer they gaue to each of vs freely and vnasked as it seemes of custome as well to vs Lay-men as to the Friars a testimony vnder the seale of the Monastery that we had beene at Ierusalem and for better credit they expressed therein some markable signes of our faces and bodies Now there remained nothing but the Epilogue of the Comedy that we should make some fit present to the Guardian of the Monastery in satisfaction for our diet and the curtesie of the Friars towards vs which my selfe and my brother thought very fit to be done but two of the Friars our consorts either wanting money or vsed to eate of free cost did not onely refuse to giue any thing but perswaded the French Lay-men to ioine with them in deniall thereof The third Friar our consort and for his experience vsed by the other as a conductor hearing this did vehemently reproue them vsing these words in French Que voules vous doncques payer en blanche that is what will you then pay them in white which phrase they vse when a man requites a curtesie in words or faire written promises not really They on the other side no lesse angry answered that it was vnfit and irreligious for Friars to extort gifts from Christian Pilgrimes My selfe and my brother laughed to our selues hearing this difference for we found now and had often heard that these Friars were most deate Hosts and that as they in England who referre their payment to pleasure are alwaies ouer-paid so these Friars asking nothing for diet yet vnder the title of gift or almes expect more then any the most greedy Host could demand yet lest we should prouoke them either to hinder our departure or to doe vs any shrewd turne as they most easily might doe yea left they should surmise my selfe and my brother to be authours or partners of this conspiracy I perswaded the French Lay-men our consorts that howsoeuer the Friars still remained obstinate to giue nothing yet we foure should present the Guardian some sixe zechines This effected the Guardian dismissed vs for
Barber-Surgean of a ship yet could I neuer doubt of recouering my health but my minde still presaged that I should returne home Yet when diuers times I began to 〈◊〉 and presently by the heate of the clime and ill aire of the place had been cast downe againe I resolued to follow their counsell who perswaded me to trie if the aire of the sea would strengthen me Therefore my deare friend Master George Dorington hauing sent me one hundred zechines for my expences the great summes of money which I had being all spent by the accidents of my brothers death and my sicknesse the particulars of which expence I omit because in this griefe and weakenesse I had no minde to note them onely for a taste remembring that I paid a piastro each day to a poore man who continually cooled my heate with a fan Master Dorington I say hauing sent me money and I hauing prouided all necessaries for my iourney at last vpon Thursday the tenth of October after the new stile and in the yeere 1596 I was carried aboard a French Ship of Marsiles partly by the helpe of Porters partly in a boate being so weake as I could not stand This ship was called Iohn Baptist and the Christian name of the Master was Simon with whom I had couenanted that I paying him thirtie piastri or duckets for my selfe and my seruant he should set vs on land in some good Hauen of the Iland Candia and if it were possible in the chiefe Citie thereof called Candia and lying on the North side of the Iland whence I was now resolued to take my iourney to Constantinople leauing all thought of going by land Vpon Friday the eleuenth of October we sayled prosperously but after the windes grew so contrary as we were driuen to the South of Candia Therefore the French Marriners murmuring against vs as hereticks causing their ill passage and there being no hope left with those windes to set vs on land at Candia the chiefe Citie the Master of our ship sent vs in his boat with some few Marriners which hee least esteemed that we might sayle to land being fiftie miles distant Thus vpon Thursday the three and twentieth of October hauing sayled eight howers in great danger towards the euening we landed vnder a Promontory of Candia where there was neither citie village house nor cottage so as plenty of raine falling that night yet we were forced to lie in an open boat where my companion or seruant not knowing our danger slept soundly but my selfe durst neuer close mine eyes fearing lest these Marriners being Marsilians who at that time little loued the English should offer vs violence to gaine our goods This consort or seruant of mine was an English man and by profession a Cooke and was come into these parts to serue Master Sandy who being sent from London to be the English Consull at Haleppo as he passed from Constantinople thither died in Asia Minor of the same disease whereof my brother died and in the same moneth This seruant being after his Masters death to returne into England I tooke to attend mee that I might by his company auoide solitude and mittigate some part of my sorrow He was no sooner entered into the French ship but he presently fell sicke and not able to serue himselfe could not giue me the expected comforts much lesse doe me any seruice but greatly increased my charge spending all vpon my purse much troubled me hauing not himselfe the least skil in any forraine language so as he recouering not till we came to Venice where being among Christians I had small vse of his helpe hee was rather a burthen then a comfort to me When I was to enter the French ship I laid in prouisions of Hennes Egges Damaske Prunes and other things but my languishing stomack not desiring not being able to digest any other then salt meate these prouisions fell to the share of my sicke seruant and my self being nothing but skin and bone as one that languished in a Consumption my bloud and humours renued with these salt meates could not but weaken my future health so as I hauing been alwaies very leane after by decay of naturall heate became very fat and hauing lost the retentiue faculty of my stomack so as I continually cast all that lay vpon it so soone as in the morning I came into the aire I had no remedie against this weakenesse but the taking of Tobacco The French Marriners who brought vs to the shoare of Candia parted from vs on Friday the twenty fiue of Iuly after the new stile early in the morning and when I had well rewarded them for their paines then first they shewed me aboue the wilde Rockes called Calisminiones a Monastery of the Greeks some three miles distant and called Santa Maria Ogidietra We being left alone and staying there fasting till noone at last espied and called to vs two men passing by vpon the Mountaines but they thinking vs to bee Pirats fled away as fast as they could Presently behold my man comming out of the Wood and bringing with him an Asse which hee had found there who perswaded me to lay my baggage on that beast and so to walke softly towards the Monastery I willingly tried my strength and leaning vpon our two swords for want of a staffe and yet often falling went forward like a snaile till despairing of going further I fell vpon the ground After an howers space a Shepheard passing by and I shewing him gold and naming Monastery which word he vnderstood he swiftly ran to the Monastery and telling the Monkes called by the Greekes Caloiri our state and condition they presently sent a seruant to vs who in the Italian tongue telling vs the great danger wherein we should be if we staied vpon those Mountaines till night aduised vs to make haste to the Monastery Thus driuen with feare and incouraged by his company I tried againe to goe forward and with great trouble passed one mile ouer the Mountaines For leaning as I said on two swords and vpon the passage of any steepe Mountaine by reason of the lightnesse of my head creeping vpon hands and feete with great difficulty I went so farre And now being not able to goe any further no not to saue my life behold a boy who came to water his Assears Fountaine adioyning to whom the seruant of the Monkes gaue a piastro and so whether he would or no tooke his Asse and set me vpon it and so at last wee passed the other two miles longer then three English miles and came to the Monastery The Caloiri or Monkes receiued vs curteously and gaue vs such victuals as they had namely Pomegranates Oliues Bread and sharpe Wine which were no good meates for sicke men hauing fasted almost two dayes Also they conferred louingly with vs but still desiring vs to keepe aloofe from them At bed time they gaue vs a straw mat to lay vpon a plastred floare for
thereof namely clothes of Gold Damasks and Grogerans to the value of a thousand thousand zechines as the report went and setting the ship on fire tooke away the marriners for slaues And the very time of my being in this Iland seuen Turkish Gallies lay vpon this coast and robbed all the Venetian ships falling into their hands so as howsoeuer they had peace then with the Turkish Ottoman yet their ships durst not stirre out of this hauen Whereupon they hauing now occasion to send out ships for Corne the Magistrate forced the Master of an English ship then harbouring there to wast these ships though much against his will when there were some 20 Venetian ships in the same Hauen whereof diuers were of 400 or 500 tuns Also at this time it hapned that a Spanish ship of Catolonia was driuen into this Harbor and the Magistrate calling our Merchants before him would haue forced them to giue caution that the English ships then lying there should not assaile the same though betweene England Spaine war had now long time bin proclaimed but they contesting against this course as iniurious to them yet could not be dismissed till they gaue their words that our ships should not assayle the same by day or night so long as it lay in this Hauen And this Spanish ship for long time not daring to goe forth at last vpon occasion of Venetian Gallies landing there was wafted by them and so escaped Vpon the robbing and burning of the foresaid Venetian ship by Turkish Pyrates the Venetian Baliffe so they call their Ambassadour lying then at Constantinople had obtained the great Turkes Mandate that these Pyrates gallies being burnt they should presently be sent in bonds to his Court and this Mandate was brought by a Chiauss or Pencioner who came in the same ship with vs whereupon the Pyrates being more inraged against the Venetians did at this time take and spoyle another Venetian ship of some foure hundred and fifty Tunnes called the Syluester and not content with the most rich booty did cast into the Sea many Marriners yeelding to mercy and could hardly be perswaded by the intercession of Turkes passengers in the same ship to spare the liues of some twenty chiefe Marriners yet aliue and to forbeare the burning of the ship The Italians of best iudgement did not expect that the great Turke would duly punish these outrages but rather were of opinion that himselfe and his chiefe Visere would draw the greatest part of the prey to their own hands and that the Turkish Gouernours inticed by like participation would endeuour to free these Pyrates and doe their best to nourish them yea that this very Chiauss now sent with a Mandate to suppresse them would be induced by bribes to returne to Constantinople with relation that the Pyrates could not be found so they did as no doubt they would for a time hide themselues and in conclusion that the Venetians after hauing spent much money in obtaining new Mandates for their apprehension should find no other remedy but to repell force by force Vpon Wednesday the thirtieth of March after the old stile in the beginning of the yeere 1597 we set sayle but by contrarietie of winds were againe driuen backe into the Hauen of Zante Vpon Friday the first of Aprill after dinner againe we set saile and the second of Aprill sayling by the Iland Cefalonia whereof I spake in our voyage from Venice to Ierusalem we cast anchor in the outward Hauen of the Iland Corfu because the Master of our ship was sicke and this his sickenesse increasing we set saile to returne backe to the chiefe City of that Iland the Hauen whereof we entered the sixth of Aprill From Zante to Cefaloniae are seuenty miles and from thence to Corfu are 120 miles This Iland Corfu inhabited by Greekes is very fertile yeelding plenty of fruites corne wines and Currands and this Hauen is fortified with two Forts cut out off a Rocke namely the old and the new Fort which is more then a mile in circuit both being very strong and held vnexpugnable so as this Iland is worthily reputed one of the chiefe Keyes of Christendome The Master of our ship hauing recouered his health wee set saile vpon Tuesday the twelfth of Aprill and returned againe to the foresaid outward Hauen of Corfu Iland where an old woman a passenger died and her kinsemen carried her body to be buried on Land Here againe we were forced to stay the winds being contrary Atlast vpon the nineteenth of Aprill towards euening with a faire wind we ioyfully set saile and the twentieth day we sailed ouer the streight Sea betweene Greece and the Prouince of Apulia in Italy Vpon Friday the two and twentieth of Aprill towards the euening hauing sayled some two hundred miles from the said streight we were carried by the shoare of the City Raguza with a faire gale of wind and had the wind beene neuer so contrary yet our Master knowing some late difference risen betweene the Raguzeans and Venetians would not willingly haue landed in that Hauen The blame of which difference some imputed to the Raguzeans in that they fauoured the Scocchi a Neighbour people vpon the shoare of Sclauonia who being subiect to the Emperour and Christians yet robbed all kinds of ships passing these Seas and had lately spoiled and burnt a Venetian Gally in the Port of Rouinge But other alleaged a more probable cause thereof namely that some Venetian Gentlemen for some venerious in solencies there committed had Iately beene slaine in a tumult Raguze of old called Epidaurus and the chiefe City of Selauonia is foure hundred miles distant from Venice built at the foot of an high mountaine vpon the Sea shoare and hath great trafficke by those Seas and huge ships which the Kings of Spatne haue often hired and ioined to their Nauy The gouernement is popular and this City to the wonder of many doth to this day maintaine the liberty though it be seated betweene the very iawes of the two powerfull States of the great Turke and Venetians to one of which all other neere Townes Ilands and Countries are subiect For the Venetians are loath to driue them being Christians to such despaire as they might be forced to yeeld themselues to the great Turke and the City is very strongly fortified towards the sea whence the Venetians can onely assaile them besides that they pay great customes of their trafficke to the State of Venice for which reason that State attempts nothing against the freedome of the City Againe the Turkes knowing that if they should besiege the City by Land the Citizens would with all their best moueables flie into Italy by Sea and receiuing also a great yeerely tribute from the trafficke of this City where the great Turke hath his owne Officer called Chiaussagha to gather the same are also content not to molest them by warre especially since they know that the Pope the King of Spaine
Lieutenant promised likewise to hold towards him and his associates The foure and twentie of December Tyrone aduertised the Lord Lientenant that he serued the Fort with fortie Beeues but the Captaine had refused ten of them wherein his discretion was taxed by the Lord Lieutenant since they were of voluntarie gift Yet Tyrone promised to send ten other of the best he had in lieu of them The eighteenth of Februarie Brian Oge Orwarke commonly called Ororke Lord of Letrym commonly called Ororkes Country submitted himself in a great assembly on his knees to her Maiestie before Sir Conyers Clifford Gouernour of Connaght subscribing further to these Articles First that he and his followers promised in all humblenesse to performe all duties to her Maiestie as becommeth good subiects Secondly that he will receiue her Maiesties Sheriffes and yeeld them all due obedience Thirdly that he will pay to her Maiestie her composition or rent and yeeld to her Highnes all seruices according to his new Patent to be granted Fourthly that hee shall send out of his Countrie all strangers to their owned welling places Fifthly that hee will apprehend all Rebels Theeues or Malefactors comming into his Countrie sending them and their goods to the Gouernour Sixthly that hee will deliuer Pledges for his Sept or Family and the chiefe Septs with him within twentie dayes Hereof Sir Conyers Clifford aduertised the Lords Iustices praying that in regard of the strength and fastnesse of Ororke Country he might not bee discontented with hauing Becues takes from him for reliefe of the Army without payment of ready money for them since that course had already grieued all the Submitties Further he shewed that the Countrie of Ororke was most necessary to be defended For howsoeuer it was held by Sir Richard Bingham the last Gouernour as by Conquest vpon expelling of the aboue mentioned Ororke yet then it was all waste so as the Rebell could make little vse of it whereas now it was most replenished with cattle and therefore like to be assaulted by Tyrone and Odennel incensed against Ororke by reason of this his submission Besides that the Queenes forces could lie no where so fitly for seruice as vpon the Earne nor there bee relieued but by Ororke nor receiue reliefe with his contentment but by paying ready money Lastly hee shewed that all the people vpon the Earne and in those parts excepting Mac William had submitted themselues to her Maiestie and deliuered Pledges for their Loyalty being glad to liue vnder her Maiesties Lawes and onely terrified with the burden of relieuing the souldiers without paiment for their cattle Therefore he desired that two of the priuy Counsell might bee sent ouer to take knowledge of such grieuances as the Submitties should present vnto them and to take order for their satisfaction These goodly submission had all the same issue as followeth in that of the famous Faith-breaker Tyrone Since the last meeting of the Lord Lieftenant with Tyrone at Dundalke his Lordship had sent ouer into England Tyrones humble submission and the Booke of his grieuances and had receiued authority from her Maiesty to make a finall conclusion with the Rebels and now at another meeting in Dundalke on the fifteene of March the Lord Lieftenant signified to Tyrone that her Maiesty by his humble submission had beene induced againe to receiue him to mercy and to giue him and all the Inhabitants of Tyrone her gracious pardon vpon conditions following First that he renew his humble submission to the Lord Liefetenant on her Maiesties behalfe in some publike place 2. That he promise due obedience of a Subiect and not to intermeddle with the Irish nor his adherents not onely hereafter but now leauing them to themselues that they may become humble suitors for their owne pardons in which case it is promised them also 3. That he dispierce his forces vpon receit of his pardon and dismisse all strangers Irish Scots or others 4. That he renounce the name and title of Oneale 5. Not to intermeddle with her Maiesties Vriaghtes so the Irish call the bordering Lords whom the Vlster Tyrants haue long claimed to be their vassals 6. That he build vp againe at his owne charges the Fort and Bridge of Blackewater and furnish the souldiers with victuals as formerly he did 7. That he deliuer to the Lord Lieftenant the sonnes of Shane Oneale who were her Maiesties prisoners till breaking out they fell into his hands and were imprisoned by him 8. To declare faithfully all intelligence with Spaine and to leaue it 9. That he receiue a Sheriffe for Tyrone as all other Countries doe 10. That he put in his eldest sonne for pledge and at all times come to the state being called 11. That he pay a fine in part of satisfaction for his ofsence according to her Maiesties pleasure 12. That he aid no Rebell nor meddle with the Inhabitants on the East side of the Ban yet so as he may enioy any lands or leases he hath there 13. That he receiue not any disloyall person but send such to the chiefe Gouernour To the first and second Articles Tyrone agreeth so as time might be giueu for the other Lords his associates to assemble that they might herein lay no imputation on him To the third he agreeth crauing a generall pasport for all such strangers To the fourth he agreeth For the fifth he saith that he desireth nothing of the Vriaghts but such duties as they yeelded since his Grandfathers time To the sixth he agreeth The seuenth he refuseth because he had not those prisoners from the State To the eight he agreeth To the ninth he agreeth according to the statute appointing a gentleman of the Countrey to be chosen yet crauing for 〈◊〉 for a small time The tenth be refuseth for the pledges in particular 〈◊〉 the eleuenth he agreeth to a 〈◊〉 of fiue hundred Cowes yet praying the Lord Lieftenant to 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 to her Maiesty for the remittall thereof To the twelfth he agreeth 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the last he agreeth prouided that he would deliuer no man to the State who came to him for cause of conscience 〈◊〉 Finally in regard Odonnell and other of Tyrone 〈◊〉 did not then appeare and in that respect the Lord Liefetenant had beene pleased to grant him further day 〈◊〉 for tenth of Aprill following he promised vpon his 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and by his hand writing that in case they or any of them should not then appeare and submit themselues yet he at that time would 〈◊〉 submission and humbly craue and receiue her Maiesties gracious pardon and goe 〈◊〉 with all things requisite for a perfect conclusion and to deliuer in two pledges of his faith to be chosen out of a schedule presented to the Lord Lieftenant the same to be changed according to the agreement and if the Mores and Conners for whom he had obtained protection should violate this 〈◊〉 that he would no way giue aide or assistance to them Herevpon at the instance
was appointed to doe till the carriage and horse should be passed And now the Lord Deputies Vanguard being come to the passage of the said water maintained a resolure skermish with the Rebels on the left hand and altogether secured the Earles troopes on that side Therebels thus beaten on both sides left some one hundred shot to skirmish with the Lord Deputies vanguard and all retired to the Earle of Southamptons reare and came desperatly on our men both with horse and foot But Sir Henry Follyot made a very good stand and Sir Oliuer Lambert fearing left our men should be distressed the more to incourage them tooke his colours in his owne hand and together with some 30 of the Earle of Southamptons Vangards best men sent back to the Rere hastened towards the Assaliants to second the Earle who at that time with some 6 horse did charge the assailing Rebels and beate them a musket shot back still pursuing them til they hauing spent their powder and throwne their staues darts and innumerable stones recouered the place where Tyrone stood himselfe with some 220 horse and 200 foote in sight besides a far greater number hid in the woods which neuer came vnto this fight When our men had thus gained much ground the Earle commaunded them to march towards the Army and presently Sir Richard Wingfeild the Marshal of the army of Ireland came to the with order from the L. Dep. that since the repulsed rebels were not like to giue any second charge they should continue their march following his L ps troopes directly to the Newry In this conflict 2 of our men were slaine Capt. Atherton and Mast. Cheut were shot and some few hurt with swords and such weapons On the rebels side there were in all 1200 foot thus aduantagiously lodged and 140 horse and Tirone himself confessed that ten of his men died with ouer-trauelling in this hasty march besides such as were killed whose number could not certainely be learned The 21 of May his Lp. was aduertised from Sir Arthur Chichester Gouernour of Carickfergus that the English sent to plant at Loughsoyle were safely landed with small resistance and had taken Newcastle belonging to Sir Iohn Odogherty whose country they had spoiled wasted and that some of them sent forth vpon a draught had taken good store of cowes and killed some of Odonnels people and that they were now busie in fortifying about the Derric so as many of that country Southward did passe their cowes and moueables into Scotland depending specially vpon the hopes of Spanish succours That Brian Mac Art a rebel bordering on Carickfergus had left his fastnes of Kilultagh and now lay on the borders of Lecale where he purposed to assaile him the rather because he had sent 200 men to assist Tyrone that diuers Gentlemen and others did daily flie from the rebels and resort vnto him with their goods to the number of 1200 cowes and more would come but that he doubted their faithfulnes That to free himself of the imputation to keepe Iames Mac Surley an enemy till he had reuenged on him his brothers death he had imployed Colonell Egerton to inuite that rebell to submission but receiued onely temporising answeres whereupon according to his L ps directions hee had written and sent a messenger of purpose to the Lord of Clantyer an Ilander Scot to stirre him vp against Iames Mac Surley wrongfully possessing his rightfull inheritance in those parts of Ireland offering to ioyne the Queenes forces vnder his commaund to those powers he should bring for recouerie of this his right so as he would after yeeld due tribute and obedience to her Maiesty but that vpon the King of Scots late Proclamation that al bearing Armes should be ready to attend the King on the 17 of Iuly next following in prosecution of the Ilander Scots as was giuen out refusing to pay tribute he feared that this Lord would bee diuerted from imbracing this busines howsoeuer aduantageous to him That he had receiued Con Mac Neale the son of Neale Mac Brian and his horsemen into her Maiesties pay and would shortly waste his fathers Country whence Brian Mac Art and some 400 Bonnaghtes or hired souldiers were maintained and fed Finally that he thought fit to rebuild Olderfleete and leaue some in Ward there because the Hauen was commodious to succour weather-beaten ships going to supplie the Garrison of Loughfoyle with necessaries The 26 of May the Lord Deputie receiued a letter from the Lords in England with full answere to his late dispatches For the Earle of Ormonds detension they signified her Maiesties griefe to be the greater because any attempt made for his recouerie was like to proue his ruine and that her Maiestie had written to the Countefse to send the Earles young daughter and heire into England For Sir Arthur Oneales demaunds vpon his comming in to serue her Maiesty in the first point concerning religion her Maiesty bare with it because she took it to proceede of his ignorance not of presumption only wishing the L. Dep to let him see that her Maiesty pursued none in those parts for religion and so to satisfie him but in no wise by any contract or condition Next for his andothers suits for land and for entertainements because such ouertures were like daily to be made by such as submitted themselues and protraction of sending to and fro might lose many opportunities First touching the sutes for land her Maiesties directions in particular cases following should be a rule to the Lord Deputie for his graunts of that kind And first for Sir Arthur Oneales demaunding Tyrones estate that could not be granted him by reason Tyrone vpon pretence of an old inquisition had extended the limits of his Countrie and incroched far into the South and East But her Maiesty was pleased to giue him Tyrones principall seates reseruing places for forts and lands to maintaine them and reseruing all dependancy of the Vriaghtes or neighbour Lords also reseruing lands in Tyrone to reward the seruices of such Gentlemen as should serue vnder Sir Arthur in these warres which they should onely hold of her Maiestie by letters Patents For the rest Sir Arthur Oneale to be chiefe in Tyrone as well in superioritie as in reuenue Touching Neale Garues demaunds for O Donnels estate her Maiesties pleasure was to reserue some Portes and Castles and some lands to reward the seruices of that Countries Gentlemen intending that these and more specially the Mac Swynes should depend onely vpon her Maiestie and haue right to those lands by her letters Patents Touching Mac Guires Country her Maiestie directed like reseruations of land for Fortes and rewards of seruices and generally in all grantes charged to reserue her Maiesties ancient rights Secondly touching suitors for entertainements in pay her Maiestes pleasure was signified to allow one thousand pound a moneth so long as the Lord Deputy and the Counsel there should thinke fit to be imployed that way according to the
The Turkes Polonians Sweitzers Bohemians Danes English Scots and Irish haue few Forts or fortified places The Kings of England haue caused such to be dismantled and puld downe as incouragement to the Nobles to contemne their authoritie onely at Barwick against the bordering Scots and at 〈◊〉 against the neighbouring French they haue maintained fortifications to hinder incursion The Turkes neither fortifie themselues nor maintaine the strong places they haue conquered from Christians In Denmarke the Citic Kopenhagen and in Poland Crakaw and Warsaw are in some sort fortified And in Ireland the English of late haue made small Forts vpon some few Hauens to preuent forraigne inuasion and in some inland territories to suppresse the rebellious inclination of some Irish Lords Otherwise in the said Kingdomes if any Cities be compassed with walles they are ready to fall for age and are rather fit to resist the first fury of ill armed mutiners then to indure a sharpe siege or the very sight of the Cannon Like are most of the Cities in Italy only at Naples and at Milan there be two strong forts and at Rome a strong Castle and in Lombardy and especially in the State of Venice many Cities and some Forts made as strong as huge charge and exquisit art can make them CHAP. III. Of Germany Boemerland and Sweitzerland touching the Geographicall description the situation the fertilitie the trafficke and the diet THE Geographers search out the greatnesse of the Globe and of all the parts in the superficies thereof by the helpe of the Celestiall circles fitted to the Conuex or bending of the earth The circles of heauen are of two sorts the greater and the lesse The greater are sixe in number the AEquator Zodiake two Colun Meridian and Horizon Of which the Geographers in the description of the World onely make vse of the AEquator and Meridian The AEquator compasseth the middle swelling of the 〈◊〉 Sphere betweene both the Poles of the world and the greatest conuexitie or bending therof from the East towards the West to which circle when the Sun is come by his proper motion in each yeere twice it makes two Equinoctials that is day and night of equall length one in the Spring the other at the fall of the leafe The circle in the conuex or bending superficies of the earth that is directly and perpendicularly vnder the said AEquator is called the AEquator of the earth and compassing the earth from the East to the West diuides it into two Hemispheres that is halfe Spheres the Northerne and the Southerne The Meridian Circle is drawne through the Poles of the Heauen in which the Meridians meete and through the verticall point that is the point right ouer head of each place whether the Sunne being come by his accidentall motion in each day it makes noone aboue the Horizon and midnight vnder the Horizon or with the Antipodes The Circle in the conuex or bending of the earth directly and perpendicularly vnder this circle Meridian passing by the extreme points of the earth that are vnder the Poles and by any appointed place in the superficies or vpper face of the earth is called a Meridian of the earth And because there is no certaine number of particular places on the earth it follows that the Meridians are innumerable so as euery place distant from another towards the East or West hath his owne peculiar Meridian diuers from the Meridian of another place Yet for making of maps and like vses the Geographers appoint one hundred eighty Meridians namely ninty Easterly and nintie Westerly The lesser circles are called Paralells that is equally distant because hauing relation one to the other or to any of the great circles they are in all parts equally distant For al lesser circles haue relation to one of the greater and are called the paralells of this or that greater circle But here onely mention is made of the Paralells referred to the AEquator which are lesser circles drawne neere the AEquator from East towards West or contrary by the vertical points of seueral places in heauen or by the places themselues in the vpper face of the earth they are the greater the neerer they are to the AEquator the lesser as they are more distant from the same towards either Pole and the Geographeis call them Northerne Paralells which are neare the AEquator in the Northerne Hemisphere and Southerne Paralells which are so drawne in the Southerne Hemisphere Also as there is no certaine number of particular places so the Paralells are innumerable in so much as each place vpon the vpper face of the earth distant from another towards the North or South hath his pecular verticall Paralell Yet vsually the Geographers number 180 Paralells namely ninty Northerne and ninty Southerne Of this number are the foure Paralells which include the foure Zones or girdles by which the vpper face of the earth is distinguished into Climes and the AEquator in the middest of them and greatest of them is ioyned to them and makes the fifth Zone The whole circle of the AEquator or Meridian containes 360 degrees whereof each consists of 60 minutes About 500 stadia make a degree 125 paces make a stadium an Italian mile makes 8 stadia a French mile 12 a German mile 32 so as 1 degree containes 62 Italian miles and a half or 15 common German miles and a half and half quarter Although the earth be conuex or bending and sphericall orround yet in a certaine respect they giue to the same from West to East or contrarily a Longitude in the AEquator and Paralells and like wise from the South to the North or contrarily a Latitude in the Meridians And howsocuer the earth in his vpper face by nature hath neither beginning nor ending yet they appoint the artificiall beginning of the Longitude in the Meridian Circle drawne by the Fortunate or Canary Ilands and therefore call it the first Meridian and so proceeding from it towards the West or the East they reckon the Longitude of the earth For example two Meridians being drawne the first by the Canary Ilands the second by any place whose situation is inquired as many degrees as are sound in the Paralell circle proper to the said place from the first Meridian to the proper Meridian of the place of so many degrees is the Longitude of that place said to be In like sort the circle AEquator and the Paralell circle of the place whose situation is inquired being drawne as many degrees as are included in the Meridian circle of that place from the AEquator to the Paralell of the place of so many degrees is the Latitude of that place said to bee As the Paralells are of two sorts so is the Latitude namely Northerne from the AEquator towards the Northerne Pole and Southerne from the same towards the Southerne Pole Also the Longitude in like sort but imaginarily is said to be Easterly
is more famous then any other in this Prouince whose Region called Saba is celebrated for plenty of Franckensence and it hath woods of Trees which being cut yeeld a frothy humour that turnes into that odour The Cities of happy Arabia are 〈◊〉 Tolnaby that is the City of the Prophet because Mahomet is said to haue written his Alcorane there and Mecha famous by Mahomets Sepulcher The Kingdome of Ormus is part of happy Arabia hauing a peculiar King but tributary to the King of Spain as he is King of Portugall the Metrapolitane City whereof rich in trade is called Ormus 3 Babilonia the third part of the Turkish Empire in Asia hath the metrapolitane City of old called by the same name but in these dayes called Bagdet 4 Chaldea the fourth part lies on the East side of Babilonia whereof the chiefe City is called Vhrr in the Scriptures from whence Abraham vpon Gods commandement went to Haran a City of Mesapitania 5 Assiria the fifth part is so called of Assur the sonne of Shem whereof the chiefe Cities are Ninus called Niniue in the Scriptures the old seate of the Kings built by Assur and Aruela famous by the victory of Alexander the Great against Darius the Persian King 6 The Ilands of Asia are the sixth part of the Turkish Empire in Asia the greater and they lie either in the Mediterranean Sea or in the Archipelagus or in the Indian Seas In the Mediterranean Sea lies Candia of old called Creta famous of old for hauing one hundred Cities and by the labyrinth of Daedalus and it was called Creta of the Earths whitenesse from whence great quantity of Muskadine Wines are exported into diuers parts of Europe and it is subiect to the State of Venice Rhodes lieth in the same Sea and was of old famous for the residence of the Knights of Hierusalem but at this day is possessed by the Turkes driuing out those Knights who now haue their residence in Malta an Iland neere that of Sicily Cyprus is an Iland in the same Sea and is most fertile yeelding Canes of Hony whence Suger is made and rich Wines and aboundiug with many things required for life and for pleasure and this Iland the Turks in the last Age took from the Venetians by force of Armes the chiefe Cities whereof are Famagosta and Nicosia The Archipelagus hath innumerable Ilands whereof the principall and most fruitfull are Tenedos small in circuit but famovs by the Nauy of the Greekes harbouring there at the siege of Troy Lesbos Lemnos Mitelene at this day called Metalon of the chiefe City Samnus of old called Sicania where Hypocrates was borne and Chios now called Zio more esteemed then any of the rest for the Marble Malmesey wine Masticke the iuyce or gumme of the tree called Lentiscus and no lesse for the many rich commodities it yeelds then for the goodnes and largenes of the soyle The Ilands of the Indian Sea belong not to the Turkes and therefore I will omit them The Turkish Empire stretcheth it selfe yet farther containing great part of Affrica which by the Grecians was called Libia and the word in the Greek tongue signifying horror and cold gaue the name to Africa as being void of cold The Mountaine Atlas in Affrick as Taurus in Asia which in some parts is called Caucasus and Imaus as the Mountaines of Europe are generally called the Alpes doth diuide this Countrie into many parts stretching it selfe towards the East and so forward to Nilus which parts or Prouinces are knowne by these names Mauritanta Affrica the lesser Syrenaica Marmarica AEgyptus Lybia AEthiopia the Regions vnder the Mountaines of Luna and the Ilands 1 Mauritania Tingitana containes two Kingdomes Fessa whereof the King of Spaine holds som part and Morcco subiect to the Turkes Of old it had these townes Tingis Metropolitane and Luxon neere which are the Gardens Hesperides which the Poets fable to haue Aples and trees of gold At this day the two chiefe Cities are called Fessa and Morocco At the Straight Sea betweene Spaine and Affricke the mountaines Abila in Affrick and Calpa in Spaine are of that forme as men would iudge they were once ioyned whereupon the Poets fable that Hercules deuided them and did let in the Ocean and so made the Mediterranean sea and for this cause the Straight is called the narrow Sea of Hercules and the Pillars of Hercules were erected on Affrickes side which the Emperour Charles the fifth added to his Coate of Armes Mauritania Caesariensis was also called Numidia for the people being rich in Cattell and dwelling in Tents and when they had eaten the grasse of one place then remouing to another were of their pastures called Nomades and after changing a letter became to bee named Numidae 2 Affrica the lesse a most fertile Region of old is at this day called the Kingdome of Tunis and the chiefe Citis are Hippon Metropolitan where Saint Austin was Bishop Vtica renowned for hauing Cato a Citizen Carthage where Tertullian was borne Tunis at this day chiefe Madaura where Lucius Apuleius was borne and Iacapa where the Vines are said to yeeld Grapes twise in the yeere The Brooke Rubricatus is famous for the Serpent killed there by Attilius Regulus in the time of the first Punike warre The quick-sands or sholes of the Sea adioyning are much feared of Marriners lying sometimes deepe sometimes shallow as the sands are driuen into diuers parts by diuers winds blowing and stormes and they are two The lesse not farre from Carthage the greater towards Syrenaica At this day all this Sea-coast is called Barbary and is subiect to the Turkish Ottoman 3 Sirenaica hath the name of the chiefe Citie Syrene which of old had emulation for greatnesse with Carthage and therein were borne Aristippus the Philosopher Calimachus the Poet and Eratostines the Mathematician and assome say Symon who carried the Crosse of Christ. 4 Marmarica is sandy and of old therein was the Temple of Iupiter called Hammon of the sands and these two Prouinces are annexed to Egypt 5 Egypt is most fertile the very garner of the vniuersall World and famous for the antiquitie of the Kingdome The vpper part thereof was called Thebais the lower towards the Mediterranean Sea was called Deltica of the letter Delta The Cities thereof no lesse famous in these dayes then of old are these Alexandria built by Alexander the great at the mouth of the Riuer Nilus whose body there buried was seene by Augustus and heere Ptolomy was borne who did gather in this Citie the famous Library of seuen hundred thousand volumes which were all consumed by fier The next chiefe Citie is Canopus where stood the Temple of Syrapis or Osyris Then Pelusium at this day called Damiata seated vpon the mouth of Nilus called Pelusium Lastly the chiefe Citie of all is Babylon built by the Babylonians permitted to dwell there which at this day is hugely increased and is called Alcaiero that is This Caiero from whence some fortie
is the Territory called Lennox whereof the Stewards haue long time been Earles of which Family the late Kings of Scotland are discended and namely Iames the sixth who raised this Earledom to a Dukedome giuing that title to the Lord d'Aubigny and these Daubignij seruing in the French and Neapolitane warres were honoured by the Kings of France with addition of Buckles Or in a field Gueules to their ancient coate of Armes with this inscription Distantia Iungo that is Distant things I ioyne Sterling or Striuelin lyes not farre off a little Citie of the Kings hauing a most strong Castle vpon the brow of a steepe rocke 8 Next these towards the North lay the Caledonij somewhat more barbarous then the rest as commonly they are more rude towards the North where not onely the aire is cold but the Country wast and mountanous And here was the Caledonian Wood so knowne to the Roman Writers as it was by them taken for all Britany and the Woods thereof At this day this Region is called by the Scots Allibawne and by the Latines Albania and containes the Bishoprick Dunkeledon and the Territory Argile so called as neere the Irish of which the Cambellan Family hath the title of Earles of Argile who are the generall Iustices of Scotland by right of inheritance and Great Masters of the Kings Houshold 9 Towards the West lay the Epidij inhabiting a wast and Fenny Country now called Cantire that is a corner of land and next lies Assinshire 10 Next lay the Creones which Region is now called Strathuaern 11 Next lay the Cornouacae at the Promontory Hey 12 On the East-side of the Caledonians lay the Vernicones in the fruitfull little Region called Fife where is the Towne of Saint Andrew Metropolitan of all Scotland 13 The little Region Athol is fertile of which the Stuards of the Family of Lorne haue the title of Earles Here is Strathbolgy the seate of the Earles of Huntly of the Family of the Seatons who tooke the name of Gordan by the authority of a Parliament 14 Next lyes Goury hauing fruitfull fields of Wheate whereof Iohn Lord Rethuen was of late made Earle but Arrell in this Region hath long giuen the title of Earle to the Family of Hayes 15 vnder Fife lyes Angush where is Scone famous for the Kings consecration Montrose hath his Earles of the Family of the Grahames but the Douglasses Earles of Angush of an honorable Eamily were made Gouernours by Robert the third of this Region and these Earles are esteemed the chiefe and principall Earles of all Scotland and it is said that they haue right to carry the Kings Crowne at the solemne assemblies of the Kingdome 16. 17 Next lye the two Regions of Marnia and Marria vpon the sea where is Dunetyre the chiefe seate of the Family of the Keythes who by warlike vertue haue deserued to be the Marshalls of the Kingdome and Aberdene that is the mouth of the Dene is a famous Vniuersity And Queene Mary created Iohn Ereskin Earle of Marre who lately was the Regent of Scotland and is by inheritance Sheriffe of the County of Sterling 18 Next lay the Taizeli where now Buquhan is seated 19 Then towards Murrey Frith the V ocomagi of old inhabited Rosse murray and Nesseland 20 More innerly is the Gulfe Vararis right ouer against the Towne Inuernesse 21 The Cantae possessed the corner of land shooting towards the Sea where is the most safe Hauen Cromer 22. 23 Yet more inwardly where Bean Rosse and Southerland are seated the Lugi and Mertae of old inhabited Thus farre Edward the first King of England subdued all with his victorious Army hauing beaten the Scots on all sides In Southerland are Mountaines of white Marble a very miracle in this cold clyme but of no vse the excesse and magnificence in building hauing not yet reached into these remote parts 24 Further neare Catnesse the Catni of old inhabited the Earles of which Country are of the ancient and Noble Families of the Sint-cleres 25 Vrdehead is thought the remotest Promontory of all Britany where the Cornabij of old inhabited 26 I will in one word mention the Ilands In the Gulfe Glotta or Dunbritten Frith lyes the Iland Glotta called Arran by the Scots giuing the title to an Earle Next that lyes Rothesia now called Buthe whence are the Stewards Kings of Scots as they say Then Hellan the Iland of the Sayntes Without the foresaid Gulfe many Ilands lye thicke together vulgarly called the Westerne Ilands and numbred forty foure being of old called by some Hebrides by others Inchades and Leucades and by many as Ptolomy Ebudae Ina one of these Ilands haue a Monastery famous for the buriall of the Kings of Scotland and for the habitation of many holy men among which was Columbus the Apostle of the Picts of whose Cell the Iland was also named Columbkill The Scots bought all these Ilands of the Norwegians as a great strength to the Kingdome though yeelding very little profit the old inhabitants whether Scots or Irish being of desperare daring and impatient of being subiect to any lawes Neare these lye the Orcades vulgarly Orkney about thirty in number yeelding competent quantity of Barley but no Wheate or trees The chiese whereof is Pomonia well knowne by the Episcopall seate and yeelding both Tynne and Leade These Orcades Ilands were subiect to the Danes and the inhabitants speake the Gothes language but Christiern King of the Danes sold his right to the King of Scotland Fiue dayes and nights sayle from the Orcades is the Iland Thule so often mentioned by Poets to expresse the furthest corner of the World whereupon Virgill saith Tibi seruiet vltima Thule that is The furthest Thule shall thee serue Many haue thought that Iseland was this Thule condemned to cold ayre and perpetuall Winter but Camden thinkes rather that Schotland is Thule which the Marriners now call Thilensall being subiect to the King of Scotland In the German Sea towards the coast of Britany are few Ilands saue onely in Edenburg Frith where these are found May Basse Keth and Inche-colme that is the Iland of Columbus Scotland reaching so farre into the North must needs be subiect to excessiue cold yet the same is in some sort mitigated by the thicknesse of the cloudy aire and sea vapours And as in the Northerne parts of England they haue small pleasantnes goodnesse or abundance of Fruites and Flowers so in Scotland they haue much lesse or none at all And I remember that comming to Barwick in the moneth of May wee had great stormes and felt great cold when for two moneths before the pleasant Spring had smiled on vs at London On the West side of Scotland are many Woodes Mountaines and Lakes On the East side towards the Sea I passed Fife a pleasant little Territory of open fields without inclosures fruitfull in Corne as bee all the partes neare Barwick saue that they yeeld little wheate and much
ciuill warres I omit the Kings and Queenes Counties namely Ophaly and Leax inhabited by the Oconnors and Omores as likewise the Counties of Longford Fernes and Wicklo as lesse affoording memorable things 3 The third part of Ireland is Midia or Media called by the English Methe in our Fathers memory deuided into Eastmeath and Westmeath In Eastmeath is Drogheda vulgarly called Tredagh a faire and well inhabited Towne Trym is a little Towne vpon the confines of Vlster hauing a stately Castle but now much ruinated and it is more notable for being the ancient as it were Barrony of the Lacies Westmeath hath the Towne Deluin giuing the title of Baron to the English Family of the Nugents and Westmeath is also inhabited by many great Irish Septs as the Omaddens the Magoghigans Omalaghlens and MacCoghlans which seeme barbarous names Shamon is a great Riuer in a long course making many and great lakes as the large Lake or Lough Regith and yeeldes plentifull fishing as doe the frequent Riuers and all the Seas of Ireland Vpon this Riuer lies the Towne Athlon hauing a very faire Bridge of stone the worke of Sir Henry Sidney Lord Deputy and a strong faire Castle 4 Connaght is the fourth part of Ireland a fruitfull Prouince but hauing many Boggs and thicke Woods and it is diuided into sixe Countyes of Clare of Letrim of Galloway of Rosecomen of Maio and of Sugo The County of Clare or Thowmond hath his Enrles of Thowmond of the Family of the Obrenes the old Kings of Connaght and Toam is the seate of an Archbishop onely part but the greatest of this County was called Clare of Phomas Clare Earle of Glocester The adioyning Territory Clan Richard the land of Richards sonnes hath his Earles called Clanricard of the land but being of the English Family de Burgo vulgarly Burck and both these Earles were first created by Henry the eight In the same Territory is the Barony Atterith belonging to the Barons of the English Family Bermingham of old very warlike but their posteritie haue degenerated to the Irish barbarisme The city Galway giuing name to the County lying vpon the Sea is frequently inhabited with ciuill people and fairely built The Northern part of Connaght is inhabited by these Irish Septs O Conor O Rorke and Mac Diarmod Vpon the Westerne coast lyes the Iland Arran famous for the fabulous long life of the inhabitants 5 Vlster the fifth part of Ireland is a large Prouince woody fenny in some parts fertile in other parts barren but in al parts greene and pleasant to behold and exceedingly stoared with Cattell The next part to the Pale and to England is diuided into three Countyes Lowth Down and Antrimme the rest containes seuen Counties Monaghan Tyrone Armach Colrane Donergall Fermanagh and Cauon Lowth is inhabited by English-Irish Down and Antrimme being contained vnder the same name and the Barrons thereof be of the Berminghams family and remaine louing to the English Monaghan was inhabited by the English family Fitzursi and these are become degenerate and barbarous and in the sense of that name are in the Irish tongue called Mac Mahon that is the sonnes of Beares I forbeare to speake of Tyrone and the Earle thereof infamous for his Rebellion which I haue at large handled in the second part of this work Armach is the seate of an Archbishop and the Metropolitan City of the whole Iland but in time of the Rebellion was altogether ruinated The other Countyes haue not many memorable things therefore it shall suffice to speake of them briefely The neck of land called Lecale is a pleasant little territory fertile and abounding with fish and all things for food and therein is Downe at this time a ruined Towne but the seate of a Bishop and famous for the buriall of S Patrick S. Bridget and S. Columb The Towne of Carickfergus is well knowne by the safe Hauen The Riuer Bann running through the Lake Euagh into the Sea is famous for the fishing of Salmons the water being most cleare wherein the Salmons much delight The great Families or Septs of Vlster are thus named O Neale O Donnel wherof the chiefe was lately created Earle of Tirconnel O Buil Mac Guyre O Cane O Dogharty Mac Mahown Mac Gennis Mac Sorleigh c. The Lake Ern compassed with thicke Woods hath such plenty of fish as the fishermen feare the breaking of their nets rather then want of fish Towards the North in the middest of vast woods and as I thinke in the County Donergall is a lake and therein an Iland in which is a Caue famous for the apparition of spirits which the inhabitants call Ellanui frugadory that is The Iland of Purgatory and they call it Saint Patricks Purgatory fabling that hee obtained of God by prayer that the Irish seeing the paines of the damned might more carefully auoide sinne The land of Ireland is vneuen mountanous soft watry woody and open to windes and flouds of raine and so fenny as it hath Bogges vpon the very tops of Mountaines not bearing man or beast but dangerous to passe and such Bogs are frequent ouer all Ireland Our Matriners obserue the sayling into Ireland to be more dangerous not onely because many tides meeting makes the sea apt to swell vpon any storme but especially because they euer find the coast of Ireland couered with mists whereas the coast of England is commonly cleare and to be seene farre off The ayre of Ireland is vnapt to ripen seedes yet as Mela witnesseth the earth is luxurions in yeelding faire and sweete hearbs Ireland is little troubled with thunders lightnings or earthquakes yet I know not vpon what presage in the yeere 1601 and in the moneth of Nouember almost ended at the siege of Kinsale and few daies before the famous Battell in which the Rebels were happily ouerthrowne we did nightly heare and see great thundrings lightnings not without some astonishment what they should presage The fields are not onely most apt to feede Cattell but yeeld also great increase of Corne I wil freely say that I obserued the winters cold to be far more mild thē it is in England so as the Irish pastures are more greene and so likewise the gardens al winter time but that in Summer by reason of the cloudy ayre and watry soyle the heate of the Sunne hath not such power to ripen corne and fruits so as their haruest is much later then in England Also I obserued that the best sorts of flowers and fruits are much rarer in Ireland then in England which notwithstanding is more to bee attributed to the inhabitants then to the ayre For Ireland being oft troubled with Rebellions and the Rebels not only being idle themselues but in naturall malice destroying the labours of other men and cutting vp the very trees of fruits for the same cause or else to burne them For these reasons the inhabitants take lesse pleasure to till their grounds or plant trees content to
dispensation on their side Therefore let the Papists feare to giue their followers leaue to heare vs in our Schooles or Churches lest they be chained with the force of truth And let vs securely permit our men to passe into the heart of Italy so they be first of ripe yeeres and well instructed Vpon my word they run no other danger then the escaping the snares of the Inquisition of which discretion I shall speake at large in the foure and twentieth Precept of Dissimulation in the next Chapter If any man obiect that some of our young Schollers haue passed into their Seminaries beyond the Seas let him consider that they were not seduced abroad but first infected at home in their parents houses and our Vniuersities which mischiefe Parents and Magistrates ought to preuent by keeping the suspected at home for the rest there is no danger But behold when I thought to haue finished my taske carpers consumed with enuie who barke at trauellers as dogs at the Moone and thinking to gaine reputation by other mens disgrace they are not ashamed to say that vagabond Caine was the first Traueller Old Writers I confesse sometimes vse the word of Perigrination for banishment but God be praised here is no question made of banished or cursed men driuen out from the sight of God They which spend the greater part of their yeeres in forraigne places as it were in voluntary banishment may more instly bee compared to Caine and are not vnlike to rude Stage players who to the offence of the beholders spend more time in putting on their apparrell then in acting their Comedy for life is compared to a stage and our Parents and Kins-men expecting our proofe to the beholders Therefore it is fit to restraine this course within due limits to which the Romans as Suetonius writes prescribed perhaps too strictly three yeeres In the last place they that detract from Trauellers to the end they may choke vs with our owne disdaine if not with arguments send out their spyes in their last skirmish to cast this Dart at vs. After so many dangers and troubles how many of you after your returne are preferred in the Common-wealth To what purpose doe you tire your selues in attaining so many vertues Is it to exercise them leaning on a plowmans or shepheards staffe I should enter a most spacious field of common griefe if I should search the causes why in our age great part of the Counsellours of States and Peeres of Realmes rather desire to haue dull and slothfull companions then those that are wise and ambitious and so in like sort rather base and expert ready seruants then those thot are free and learned Knowledge puffeth vp and I remember of late a learned Physician who being sent for by a great Lord and he being offended at his long stay freely and boldly answered that knowledge could not dance attendance Hence is our calamity to omit the more curious search of this euill whose first encounter astonisheth me though I am not ignorant of the cause but let him that cast this Dart tell me whether this ill be uot common to all men of vertue and if it be so he must at least confesse with the Poet Solamen miser is socios habuisse doloris Partners in griefe doe solace giue And let all rare men in any kind of vertue when they are despised or neglected comfort themselues with this Phylosophicall precept of Aristotle that vertue is desired for it selfe not for any thing else So I say the fruit of trauell is trauell it selfe Hauing thus retorted our enemies weapons vpon their owne breasts because the common sort is more moued with examples then arguments it remaines that in the last place I should adorne the triumph of this vertuous industry with some few and speciall examples Many have beene found who haue passed into remote parts of the World onely to gaine health farre greater is the number of them who as the Poet saith Pauperiem fugiunt vltra Garamant as Indos Who further runne to shunne base pouerty Then Garamants and Indians doely And greatest is the number of them who following the standard of ambition haue pierced to the very gates of hell with sound of Drummes and Trumpets To conclude as diligent Merchants gather precious wares into one storehouse so Phylophers haue from the first ages of the World passed by flockes into forraigne parts to gaine knowledge as the Egyptians into Chaldea the Greekes into Egypt and the Romans into Greece Pythagorus walked sarre and neere not onely to learne but also in diuers places to get Disciples whom he might teach for the Poet saith well Scire tuum nihil est nisi te scire hoc sciat alter To know auaileth thee no whit If no man know thou knowest it To be briefe if wee will credit old monuments which I confesse to suspect hee came in person and sowed the precepts of his Phylosophy euen among the Britaines deuided from all the World Plato hath written some-what too seuerely against Trauellers perhaps like Alexander the Great who was angry with his Master Aristotle because hee had published the 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which hee had read vnto him thereby leauing him nothing wherein he might excell others so Plato hauing gotten the name of Diuine by his very trauels would forbid or limit the same to others that he might shine among the Phylosophers Velut inter stellas Luna minores As the bright Moone among the lesser starres It is most certaine that hee was not onely industrious but euen curious in this course so as he sayled into Sicily the entrance of which Iland was vpon paine of death forbidden to strangers onely that he might see the burning of the Mountaine AEtna Apelles by drawing of a most subtile lyne at Rhodes was made knowne to Protogenes Homer being blind yet ceased not to trauell In our Age they which are renowned at home for any Art are not content therewith except they may passe into forraigne Courts to make knowne their skill The most ancient Lawgiuers got the experience by which they had rule in their Cities not by secure study at home but by aduenturous trauels abroad as the Poet saith Ingenium mala saepe mouent Aduersities doe often whet our wits Moyses Orpheus Draco Solon Mines Rhadamanthus Licurgus and almost all the Consuls of Rome themselues had beene in forraigne parts and granted ample priuiledges to strangers Among Physicians we read that Esculapius and Hypocrates trauelled and that Galene was at Smyrna Corinth Alexandria in Palestine at Lemnos Ciprus and at Rome and Auicenna boasteth that he had passed through the whole World I know that many in our Vniuersities become learned Physicians but no doubt they would haue beene more learned if they had passed into forraigne parts One Land yeeldeth not all things A man shall hardly learne at home the diuers natures of hearbes and other things or the diuers dispositions of one and the same body according to
the difference of the clyme aire and diet This the Spaniard wittily obserued who hauing got the French Pox sayled into America and did there learne the cure of that disease from those who first infected the Spaniards therewith We praise Physicians especially for experience as Lawyers for diligence desiring to haue an old Physician and a young Lawyer to giue vs counsell and follow our businesse but experience is of seuerall things dispersed through the vniuersall World It is written that of old the AEgyptians had seuerall Physicians for each seuerall disease who would not haue returned more learned from their Lectures Also they laid vp approued remedies of diseases in the Temples of Isis and Vulcane What Scholler then returning from AEgypt should not haue gained great reputation to his skill and we know that opinion many times auaileth with the sicke euen more then the medicine In this sort ambitious men of old by the onely opinion of their experience by seeing the world did obtaine to be numbered among the Gods Iupiter of Creta in Italy Bacchus in the furthest East Hercules in the most remote parts of Africke towards the West planted monuments of their trauels The voyage of the Argonautes the wanderings of Vlisses and AEneas are sung by all Ballad-sellers Alexander the Great passed the monument of Bacchus in the East It were infinite onely to name the Roman Emperours who excelled in this industry For as the Wiseman said that he was a Citizen of the World so the Romans by giuing remote Princes the priuiledge to be Citizens of Rome and by sending Roman Citizens in Colonies to inhabit remote places vsed the whole World for a City neither did they euer admit any to the highest dignities in the City of Rome nor yet to the inferiour Magistrates thereof who had not first borne rule or Office in some remote Prouince One Iulius Caesar came saw and ouercame with his Army among the Cimbrians Germans Spaniards Britans Grecians Africans and those of Asia The very Westerne Emperours of later times haue been enflamed with the same desire Charles the Great made happy warre beyond the Pyrenean mountaines against the Sarrasens beyond the Alpes against the Lombards and in Germany against the Saxons Who hath not heard of the European Princes like so many Floods carrying Armies into the East To omit all other for I desire to be briefe Charles the fifth inferiour to none of his Predecessours and emulous of Hercules himselfe passed his pillars at the furthest straight of the Mediteranean Sea and added to his Armes the Mot of Hercules Non plus vlira No farther beyond this onely leauing out the first word Non because he had passed the limits of Hercules as Alexander the Great had done those of Bacchus Whereby notwithstanding some thinke that he did rather blemish then increase the fame of his trauels since that part of Africke was so neere adioyning to his Kingdomes of Spaine but in the meane time they forget that he was borne at Gaunt in Flaunders Methinkes I haue said enough and too much in so cleere a cause therefore I will onely adde some choyce examples of the holy Scriptures and so conclude Abraham left his Countrey at Gods command and went to the Land of Promise called also the Land of Pilgrimage Iacob serued for his wiues in Mesopotamia and in his old age passed into AEgypt The Israelites were brought by large circuit from the seruitude of AEgypt into the Land of Promise that the protection of God might by aduersity be more imprinted in their minds and they be more stirred vp to keepe the Lawes of so gracious a God The example of a woman the Queen of Sheba is famous who came to Ierusalem to be an eye and eare witnesse of Salomons wisdome To be briefe Christ himselfe liued in the flesh as a Pilgrim choosing no set place of aboad when he was in the Cradle three Wisemen came from the East to worship him and himselfe being an Infant was carried into Egypt to shunne Herods tyranny He commanded his Apostles to preach the Gospell throughout the World Among the Fathers Saint Augustine wished to haue seene three things Christ in the flesh Paul in the Pulpit and Rome in the flower In our Age the Turkes and Papists so madly affect Pilgrimages as they superstitiously thinke the same auaileable to the saluation of their soules with which extreame least I should seeme to know no meane I wil conclude these examples For my part I thinke variety to be the most pleasing thing in the World and the best life to be neither contemplatiue alone nor actiue altogether but mixed of both God would haue made eternall spring had he not knowne that the diuers-seasons would be not onely most profitable to the workes of nature but also most plesant to his creatures while the cold Winter makes the temperate Spring more wished Such is the delight of visiting forraigne Countreys charming all our sences with most sweet variety They seeme to me most vnhappy and no better then Prisoners who from the cradle to old age still behold the same wals faces orchards pastures and obiects of the eye and still heare the same voices and sounds beate in their eares Not the song of the Cuckow nor the craking of the Crowes nor the howling of Wolues nor the bellowing of Oxen nor the bleying of Sheepe no nor the sweet voyces of Larkes and Nightingales if they be shut vp in a Cage doe so much please vs at home as the variety of all composed of diuers tunes delights vs in the fields abroad In like sort it is manifest that all the other sences are not so much pleased with any thing as variety They are in some measure happy who hauing but one house yet haue change of chambers to remoue as the season of the yeere changeth but I iudge Lawyers and Officers more happy who haue their Termes to liue in the City and their Vacations to returne into the Countrey so often as it were renewing their marriage dayes And of all I iudge the Nomades most happy the comparison holding in other things who liue in Tents and so by remouing not onely escape the heat of Summer the cold of Winter the want of pastures all diseases and all vnpleasing things but at their pleasure enioy all commodities of all places Let vs imitate the Storkes Swallowes and Cranes which like the Nomades yeerely fetch their circuits and follow the Sunne without suffering any distemper of the seasons The fixed Starres haue not such power ouer inferiour bodies as the wandring Planets Running water is sweet but standing pooles stinke Take away Idlenes and the bate of all vice is taken away Men were created to moue as birds to flie what they learne by nature that reason ioined to nature teacheth vs. Nothing can be added to the worthy praises of him as the Poet suith Qui Mores hominum multorum vidit vrbes Who many Mens manners hath seene And hath in many