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A68252 The strange and dangerous voyage of Captaine Thomas Iames, in his intended discouery of the Northwest Passage into the South Sea VVherein the miseries indured both going, wintering, returning; and the rarities obserued, both philosophicall and mathematicall, are related in this iournall of it. Published by his Maiesties command. To which are added, a plat or card for the sayling in those seas. Diuers little tables of the author's, of the variation of the compasse, &c. VVith an appendix concerning longitude, by Master Henry Gellibrand astronomy reader of Gresham Colledge in London. And an aduise concerning the philosophy of these late discouereyes, by W.W. James, Thomas, 1593?-1635?; Gellibrand, Henry, 1597-1636.; W. W. (William Watts), fl. 1633. 1633 (1633) STC 14444; ESTC S109089 103,433 150

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Cape Farewell being still pestered with much Ice The ninth we were in Lat. 59. 00. and we made account the Cape Farewell bare of vs due East and some ten leagues off The Blaskes in Ireland is in Lat. 52. 4. and Cape Farewell in Lat. 59. 00. The course is West North-west and the distance about 410. leagues I know very well these Latitudes courses and distance doe not exactly agree with Mathematicall conclusions but thus we found it by practice The variation of the Compasse in Lat. 52. 30. and 30. leagues to the Westward of Ireland is about 3. 00. to the Eastward in Lat. 57. 00. about 310. leagues West North-west from the Blaskes the Compasse doth vary 9. 00. to the West-ward in Lat. 59. 15. some 40 leagues to the East-ward of Cape Farewell the variation is about 14. 45. In this course I haue bin obseruant whether there were any Currant that did set to the N. E. as some haue written there did and that as well in Calme weather as other-wayes But I could not perceiue any The windes here are variable and the Sea of an vnsearchable depth We haue not seene from Ireland hitherto any Whales or other Fish The weather for the most part was foggie and mistie that wets as bad as raine The tenth all the morning was very foule weather and a high-growne Sea although we had Ice not farre off about vs and some pieces as high as our Top-mast-head Our long Boate which we were faine to Towe at Sterne by reason we were building our Shallop on our Decks broke away and put vs to some trouble to recouer her againe This we did and made meanes to haue her into the Ship though very much bruised and that I had two men sore hurt and like to be lost in the hauing of her in By eight a clocke this euening we were shot vp as high as Cape Desolation for finding here the Land to trend away North and by East we certainly knew it to be the Cape It stands in Lat. 60. 00. and the Land from Cape Farewell to it trends N. W. the distance about 40. leagues The distance from Cape Desolation to the South end of the Iland of Resolution is about 140. leagues the course West halfe a point North. The Lat. of the South end of the Iland being 61. 20. some 12. leagues to the Westward of Cape Desolation the variation is 16. 00. In this course we were much tormented pestered and beaten with the Ice many pieces being higher then our Top-mast-head In our way we saw many Grampusses amongst the Ice and it seemeth the Sea is full of them The weather for the most part a stinking fogge and the Sea very blacke which I conceiue to be occasioned by reason of the fogge The seuenteenth at night we heard the rutt of the shoare as we thought but it prooued to be the rutt against a banke of Ice that lay on the shoare It made a hollow and a hideous noyse like an ouer-fall of water which made vs to reason amongst our selues concerning it for we were not able to see about vs it being darke night and foggie We stood off from it till breake of day then in againe and about 4. a clocke in the morning wee saw the Land aboue the fogge which we knew to be the Iland of Resolution This last night was so cold that all our Rigging and Sayles were frozen Wee endeauoured to compasse about the Southern point of the Iland for that we were so much pestered with the Ice and blinded with a very thicke fogge Here runnes a quicke tyde into the Straight but the ebbe is as strong as the flood The fogge was of such a piercing nature that it spoiled all our Compasses and made them flagge and so heauy withall that they would not trauerse Wherefore I would aduise any that shall Sayle this way hereafter to prouide Compasses of Muscouia Glasse or some other matter that will endure the moisture of the weather As the fogge cleered vp we could see the entrance of the Straight to be all full of Ice close thronged together Indeauouring to goe forward wee were fast inclosed amongst it and so droue to and againe with it finding no ground at 230. fad 4. leagues from the shoare The twentieth in the morning we had got about the Southerne point of the Iland and the winde came vp at West and droue both vs and the Ice vpon the shoare When we were driuen within two leagues of the shoare we came amongst the most strangest whirlings of the Sea that possibly can bee conceiued There were diuers great pieces of Ice a-ground in 40. fad water and the ebbe comming out of the broken grounds of the Iland amongst these Iles of Ice made such a distractiō that we were carryed round sometimes close by the Rocks sometimes close by those high pieces that we were afeard they would fall vpon vs. We were so beaten likewise with the encountering of the Ice that we were in a most desperate estate We made fast two great pieces of Ice to our sides with our Kedger and Grapnels that drew 9. or 10. fad that so they might be a-ground before vs if so be we were driuen on the shoare But that designe fayled vs and now from the top seeing in amongst the Rocks I sent the Boate for now wee had finished her to see if shee could finde some place of securitie but shee was no sooner parted but shee was inclosed and driuen to hale vp on the Ice or else shee had beene crushed to pieces They ranne her ouer the Ice from piece to piece and in the meane space with the whirling and incountring of the Ice the two pieces brake away from our sides and carryed away our Kedger and Grapnels Then we made signes to the Boate to make all the haste shee could to vs which shee perceiuing did the men being with much difficultie inforced to hale her ouer many pieces of Ice In the meane space we made some Sayle and got to that piece of Ice that had our Grapnell on it which wee againe recouered By this time was our Boate come and We put afresh Crue into her and sent her to fetch our Kedger which shee endeauoured with much danger of Beate and Men. By this time the Ship was driuen so neere the shoare that we could see the Rocks vnder vs and about vs and we should be carryed with the whirlings of the waters close by the points of Rocks and then round about backe againe and all this notwithstanding the Sayle we had abroad that wee expected continually when shee would be beaten to pieces In this extremitie I made them to open more Sayle and to force her in amongst the Rocks and broken grounds and where there was many great pieces of Ice aground We went ouer Rocks that had but 12. or 13. foot water on them and so let fall an Anker This Anker had neuer bin able to winde vp the
forementioned piece of Ice brake with a terrible noyse into foure pieces which made me doubtfull it had not spoyled the Ship it being full halfe mast high I made what haste I could to the boate and so to the Ship to be satisfied where I found all well God be thanked for that the Ice had broken from the Ship-ward I instantly sent away the boate to sound the way to a Coue that I had found which was a very dangerous passage for the boate At her returne we vn-moord the Ship and with what speede possible warpt away from amongst this terrible Ice We were not a mile from them but they brake all to pieces and would surely haue made vs beare them company but that God was more mercifull vnto vs. We got about the Rocks and so into this little Coue which I had so newly discouered Here we made fast to the Rockes and thought our selues in indifferent safety which being done I went ashoare againe to wander vp and downe to see what I could discouer I found it all broken Rockie grounds and not so much as a tree herbe or grasse vpon it Some Ponds of water there were in it which were not yet thawed and therefore not ready for the fowle We found not in the snow any footing of Deere or Beares but Foxes we saw one or two We found where the Saluages had beene but it was long since They had made fiue hearths and we found a few firebrands about them and some heads of Foxes and bones of Foxes with some Whale-bones I could not conceiue to what purpose they should come thither for we could finde none or very little wood on the shoares side and no fish at all though we did dayly indeauour to take some But it may be the season was not yet come I named this Coue by the Masters name of my Ship Prices Coue. The Latitude of it is 61. 24. the Variation The firebrands and chips which I spake of had beene cut with some hatchet or other good instrument of iron from the top of the hills we could see the Ilands that are on the South shore and commonly called Sir Thomas Buttons Iles They did beare South and by East halfe a point Easterly some 14. or 15 leagues distant vpon the change day it flowes here seuen a clocke and a halfe and the tyde highest at most three fad The flood comes from the Eastwards and thither it returnes I haue beene obseruant from the top of the hills whence I might descry the great pieces of Ice 2. or 3. leagues from the shoare driue to and againe with the flood and ebbe indifferently Hence I collected that assuredly there is no currant sets in here but that it is a meere tyde Neere the shoare the eddies whitle into twenty manners when the ebbe is made which is because it comes out of the broken ground amongst the Ice that is aground neere the shoare Besides which reason there be diuers Rockes lying vnder water on which you shall haue now 30. then 12. and anon but 8. and then 20. fad And these vncertainties occasion such distractions I would therefore aduise none to come too neere those dangerous shoares for feare hee lose his ship and so by consequence all The last night we tooke better rest then we had done in tenne nights before And this morning being the 24. there sprung vp a faire gale of wind at East and after prayer we vnfastened our Ship and came to saile steering betwixt great pieces of Ice that were a-ground in 40. fad and twice as high as our top-mast head Wee went forth of this Coue vpon the flood and had none of those whirlings of the waters as we had at our going into it We indeauoured to gaine the North shoare kept our selues within a league of the shoare of the Iland of Resolution where we had some cleere water to saile thorow In the Offing it was all thicke throngd together as might be possible By 12. a clocke we were fast inclosed and notwithstanding it blew very hard at East yet we could make no way through it but the hard corners of the Ice did grate vs with that violence as I verily thought it would haue grated the plankes from the Ships sides Thus we continued in torment till the day driuing to and againe in the Ice not being able to see an acre of sea from top-mast head This 26. was calme Sun-shine weather and we tooke the Latitude Variation The Latitude is the Variation we sounded and had ground at 140. fad small white sand I caused the men to lay out some fishing lines but to no purpose for I could not perceiue that baite had beene so much as touched The nights are very cold so that our rigging freezes and the fresh ponds of water stand vpon the Ice aboue halfe an inch thicke The 27. there sprung vp a little gale at South-East and the Ice did something open Hereupon we let fall our foresayle and forced the Ship thorow the throng of Ice In the Euening the winde came contrary at W. N. W. and blew hard which caused vs to fasten to a great piece to which we remained moord till the 29. I am resolued that here is no currant and that by many experiments which I haue made Namely by taking markes on the land and noting our drift to and againe with the ebbe and flood for many dayes together as well in calme weather as otherwayes By all these experiments I found exactly that the tide was no stronger there then that betwixt England and France This morning there sprung vp a fine gale at E. and the Ice did open something so that we did force the Ship thorow it with her fore-saile By 12. a clocke we were gotten into some open water with a fine gale of wind at East and so cleere weather that we could see the Iland of Resolution The North end did beare of vs E. N. E. some 12. leagues off From this 29. till the 5. of Iuly wee sayled continually thorow the Ice with variable winds and fogges and sometimes calme The 5. at noone we had a good obseruation and were in Latitude 63. 15. and then wee saw Salisbury Iland bearing W. by N. some 7. leagues off with much Ice betwixt it and vs to weather which we were driuen to stand to the Northward Soone after we saw Prince Charles his Cape and Mill Iland and to the North-north-west and in deed round about vs the Sea most infinitely pestered with Ice This did grieue mee very much for whereas I had determined to prosecute the discouery to the North-westward I saw it was not possible this yeere Wee were moreouer driuen back againe with contrary windes still closed and pestered with Ice and with all the perils and dangers incident to such aduentures so that we thought a thousand times that the Ship had bin beaten to pieces By the fifteenth day of Iuly we were got betwixt
and recreate our selues letting her stand still vnder all her Sayles It was flat extraordinary large Ice the worst to deale withall that we had yet found I measured some pieces which I found to be 1000. of my paces long This was the first day that our men began to murmure thinking it impossible to get either forwards or backe-wards Some were of the opinion that it was all such Ice betwixt vs and the shoare Others that the Bay was all couered ouer and that it was a doubt whether we could get any way or to any land to winter in The nights were long and euery night it did so freeze that we could not sayle amongst the Ice by night nor in the thicke foggie weather I comforted and incouraged them the best I could and to put away these cogitations wee dranke a health to his Maiestie on the Ice not one man in the Ship and shee still vnder all her sayles I most ingeniously confesse that all their murmuring was not without reason wherefore doubting that we should be frozen vp in the Sea I ordered that fire should be made but once a day and that but with a certaine number of shides that the Steward should deliuer to the Cooke by tale the better to prolong our fewell whatsoeuer should happen The 30. we made some way thorow the Ice we heauing the Ship with our shoulders and with Mawles and Crowes of Iron breaking the corners of the Ice to make way As we got forwards the water shoalded apace so that I beleeue it to be some Iland At noone we obseru'd thorow the fogge with the Quadrant vpon a piece of Ice and were in Lat. 58. 54. our depth 30. fad We put out hookes to try to catch some fish but to no purpose for there is not any in this Bay The 31. we laboured as aforesaid and got something forward At noone we were in Lat. 58. 40. our depth 23. fad It was very thicke hazye weather or else I thinke we should haue seene the land The first of August the winde came vp at West which droue vs to the Eastward where our depth increased to 35. fad At noone by obseruation with the Quadrant on the Ice we were in Lat. 58. 45. At sixe a clocke this euening we might perceiue the Ice to heaue and set a little which was occasioned by a swelling Sea that came out of the South-West This did comfort vs very much hoping shortly we should get out of the Ice The second it did blow hard at South-West and yet we could not feele the forementioned swelling Sea which did againe quench the hopes we had formerly conceiued The third wee did see a little open water to the North-westward and did feele a swelling Sea from the West which doth assure vs that there is an open Sea to the Westward The fift we saw the Sea cleere but could by no meanes worke our selues to it with our sayles wherefore about sixe in the euening wee let fall an Anker in 50. fad water and stood all with poles and oares to fend off the Ice and let it passe to Leewards We continued this labour all night In the morning the winde came vp at North-West and we wayed with much ioy as hoping now to get into an open Sea to the Southward This by noone we had done and were in Lat. 58. 28. very free of Ice The winde did large vpon vs so that we stood away North-West to get vp as high to the Northward as we could and so to come coasting to the Southward We went to prayer and to giue God thanks for our deliuery out of the Ice The ninth being in Lat. 59. 40. we came againe to the Ice which lye very thicke to the North since we came out of the Ice our depth increased to 110. and now decreaseth againe So that I thinke we approched towards the shoare The tenth prooued very thicke foggie weather the winde contrary and the water showlding apace we came to an Anker in 22. fad The eleuenth in the morning we wayed and made in for the shoare and about noone saw the land our depth being 16. fad in Lat. 59. 40. The land to the North of vs did trend North by East and so made a point to the Southward and trended away West by South which we followed making it for that place which was formerly called Hubberts Hope And so it prooued indeed but it is now hopelesse Two or three words now concerning the Bay that we haue past ouer It is from Digges Iland to this Wester land in latitude aforesaid about 160. leagues the course West South West the variation The tydes doe set in the middle of the Bay East and West as we haue often tryed by our ledde aground but neerer the shoares as they are forced by the land I am of the opinion that in the Ocean or in large Bayes the tydes doe naturally set East and West and that this doth giue little hope of a passage The greatest depth we had in the Bay was 110. fad and so shoalding as you approch to land we coasted round about this forementioned little Bay which is some 18. leagues deepe in 8. and 6. fad and in the bottome of it we were in two faddome and a halfe water and saw the firme land almost round about vs. Then we proceeded to the Southward sixe and seuen faddome water within sight of the breach of the shoare keeping the lead continually going and in the night we would come to an Anker This night being little winde we came to an Anker with our Kedger but in waying of him we lost him hauing no more aboord vs. The 12. we were in Lat. 58. 46. some two leagues from the shoare The variation is about 17. deg The 13. in the afternoone it being something hazye we saw some breaches ahead vs our depth was 9. and 10. fad and luffing to cleere our selues of them we suddenly strooke vpon the Rocks the Ship then being vnder our two Top-sayles Foresayle and Spreetsayle with a fresh gale of winde In this fearefull accident wee strooke all our sayles amaine and it did please God to send two or three good swelling Seas which did heaue vs ouer the Rocks into 3. fad and presently into three faddome and a halfe where we chopt to an Anker and sayed the pumps but we found shee made no water although shee had three such terrible blowes that we thought her Mast would haue shiuered to pieces and that she had bin assuredly bulged Wee hoyst the Boate ouer-boord and double man'd her to goe seeke and sound a way out of this perilous place Shee was no sooner gone but there rose a fogge so that we were faine to spend some powder that shee might heare whereabouts we were The winde duld something otherwise it had beene doubtfull whither shee could euer haue recouered to vs againe After shee had beene absent two houres she brought
Digges Iland and Nottinghams Iland not being able to get more Northward There for an houre or two we had some open water But before I proceed further it were not amisse in some manner to describe the Straight which begins at the Iland of Resolution and ends here at Digges Iland If you goe downe into the Bay the Straight is about 120. leagues long and trends W. N. W. and E. S. E. generally In the entrance it is about 15. leagues broad and then on the Southward side is a great Bay About the middest it is likewise about 15. leagues broad and then the Land opens something wider so that betwixt Digges Iland and Cape Charles it is about 20. leagues broad Betwixt which two stands Salisbury Iland and Nottingham Iland If it be cleere weather you may see both the South and the North shoares ordinarily the depth in the middle of the Straight is 120. faddomes white sand A certaine tyde runnes in it and no Current The North shoare is the straightest and the cleerest from Ice too Alongst the North shoare you haue many low small Ilands which cannot be seene farre off from the land and in many places the land makes as if it had small sounds into it The Maine land on both sides is indifferent high land And so much for discourse may suffice referring you to the Plot for the particulars Being now resolued of the impossibilitie to doe any thing to the North-westward for the reasons aforesaid I gaue order to the Master of my Ship to Steere away W. S. W. to haue a sight of Mansfeilds Iland which the next day by three a clocke in the after-noone we had hauing had so much dangerous foule weather amongst the Ice that we strooke more fearefull blowes against it then we had euer yet done This was the first day that wee went to halfe allowance of bread Flesh dayes and I ordered things as sparingly as I could Two of our men complaine likewise of sickenesse but soone afterward recouered In the euening wee came to an Anker and I sent the Boate ashoare to try the tydes They brought mee word that whilest the Boat was ashoare it flowed about some three foote and as wee found by the Ship and by the Ice the water at that time came from the W. S. W. and that the highest tydes so farre as they could perceiue it had not highed aboue two faddome They found that the Saluages had beene vpon it by certaine fires which they found and heapes of stones Tracks of other beasts but Foxes they could not finde The winde was so contrary and the weather so foggie that wee were faine to spend some powder to recouer our Boate againe Next morning being the 17. the winde came something fauourable and wee wayed The shoare being something cleere of Ice though very thicke all to the Offing wee stood alongst it S. and S. by W. some 10. leagues In the after-noone the winde came contrary and we came againe to an Anker within a mile of the shoare for to Sea-boord was all thicke Ice and vnpassable I went ashoare my selfe to be resolued of the tyde and found whilest I was a shoare that it did flow two foote and at that time the flood came from the S. W. by W. I doubted it was an halfe tyde which afterwards I found to be true I found where the Saluages had beene vpon the Iland but could see little or no drift wood on the shoare no beasts on the Iland nor fishes in the Sea It flowes on the change day about a eleuen a clocke We saw some fowle on it of which we killed one and returned aboord This Iland is very low land little higher then a dry sand-banke It hath Ponds vpon it of fresh water but no grasse and is vtterly barren of all goodnesse The 18. in the morning the winde came something fauourable and we weyed and came to Sayle for the Ice was all comne about vs. We endeauoured to proceed to the Westward intending to fall with the Westerne land about the Latitude 63. 00. By twelue a clocke hauing beene much pestered we were comne to a firme range of Ice but it pleased God that the winde larged and wee stowed away S. S. W. At noone in Lat. 62. 00. by 4. in the euening hauing scaped dangerous blowes wee were come as wee thought into an open Sea and ioyfully steered away West and W. by N. although that Ioy was soone quayled By ten at night we heard the rut of the Ice and it grew a thicke fogge and very darke with it neuerthelesse we proceeded and the neerer we came to it the more hideous noyse it made By three in the morning the 19. we were come to it and as it did cleere a little we could see the Ice which were as thicke rands of Ice as any we had yet seene These being vnpassable and moreouer the winde at N. W. we stowed alongst it hoping to weather it to the Southward but at last we became so blinded with fogge and so incompassed with Ice that we could goe no further The 20. in the morning notwithstanding the fogge we endeauoured to get to the Westward our Ship beating and knocking all this while most fearefully In this wilfulnesse we continued till the 21 when being fast amongst the Ice I obserued we were in Lat. 60. 33. and then looking what damage our Ship might haue receiued we could perceiue that below the plate of Iron which was before her Cut-water shee was all bruised and broken the two knees she had before to strengthen her spoyled and torne and many other defects which we could not by any meanes come to mend Notwithstanding all this and the extraordinary thicke fogge that we could not see a Pistoll shot about vs we proceeded with the hazzard of all Till the 27 which was the frist time we had cleere weather to looke about vs The winde withall came vp at South and the Ice did open something so that we made some way thorow it to the Westward In the euening we were fast againe and could goe no further the winde veering from the South to the East and blowing a fresh gale This occasioned our griefes the more that with a good winde wee could not goe forward putting therefore a Hawser vpon a piece of great Ice to keepe the Ship close to it we patiently expected for better fortune Since we came from Mansfields Iland our depth was commonly 110. and 100. fad oozye ground Now the water begins to showlde for this present 27. driuing fast to and againe in the Ice we haue but 80. fad ground as before The 28. and 29. we were so fast inclosed in the Ice that notwithstanding we put abroad all the sayle that was at yards and that it blew a very hard gale of winde the Ship stirred no more then if shee had beene in a dry Docke Hereupon we went all boldly out vpon the Ice to sport
vs word that it was all Rocks and breaches round about vs and that withall shee had found a way where there was not lesse then two fad and a halfe and that afterwards the water did deepen We did presently way and follow the Boate and past ouer two ledges of Rocks on which there was scarce 14. foot water Then it did deepen to 3. 4. and so to 14. fad then it shoulded againe to 9. It being now night we came to an Anker where we ride indifferent well all the night In the morning the winde came contrary so that wee could not goe that way we intended to cleere our selues and therefore we went to worke to fit our holds to splise our Cables and made ready two shot and so placed them in the Hold that they might vpon all occasions runne cleere the ends of them being fastned to the maine Mast. We likewise lookt to our Ankers and fitted our spare ones We got out our long Boate from betwixt the decks which was very much broken and bruised The Carpenter went to worke to fit her for I intended to tow the Shallop at Sterne and so to haue the Boats ready at an instant either to lay out Ankers or to be seruiceable to what God should be pleased to try our faith and patience withall for in him was our only trust and our hope vpon his fauour in our honest endeauours At noone in Lat. 57. 45. wee could see the land from the N. W. to the S. E. by E. with Rocks and breaches and the Rocks that we came ouer dry aboue water whereby I knew it flowes here two faddomes at least At noone I sent the Boate off to sownd to the Eastward because the water shoulded when we came to an Anker Shee brought vs word the shouldest water she had beene in was 7. fad We intending thereupon to way the winde came Easterly so that we could not budge but lay here the 14. all night with a stiffe gale of winde The 15. in the euening our Cable galded off by reason of which perilous and sudden accident in which wee had not time to put a Buoy to it we lost our Anker and were driuen into 4. fad water before we could set our sayles This when we had done we stowed South South-East the winde being at East but the water shoulded to 3. fad Then wee stowed North north-east and it did deepen by degrees to ten fadd and because it grew darke we came to an Anker and rid a good stresse all night In the morning the 16. the winde came vp at North a fresh gale and we wayed and came to sayle By nine a clocke it grew to be a very storme and we turned to and againe in 10. fad water In the euening the winde duld and wee stood South-west to haue a sight of Port Nelson which course we stood all night by the Starres being in Lat. 57. 25. the variation about 17. degrees The 17. in the morning we stood South and our depth decreased by degrees to 8. faddomes At noone we had good obseruation being in Latitude 57. 15. and wee make account that we are some 6. or 7. leagues of the Southerne side of Port Nelson Here the colour of the water changed and was of a puddlelish and sandy red colour We stood into 6. fad and could not see the land from Top-mast-head so night comming on and it beginning to blow hard at East by South we stood off againe into 10. and 12. faddomes where the water was againe of the colour of the Sea The 18. as the winde and weather fauoured vs and the storme was broken vp we stood in againe South and came againe into thicke puddlelish water into 8. 7. and 6. fad and then off againe for that it grew thicke foggie weather keeping our lead continually going night and day The 19. being fine cleere Sun-shine weather we stood in againe into the thicke puddleish water into 8. fad where we came to an Anker to try the tydes For that from Top-mast-head we could not now see the land We were at noone by good obseruation in Latitude 57. 20. and the tyde did set N. W. by W. and S. E. by E. It did runne two knols and a halfe in two glasses I resolued that this was nothing but shoalds to the land In the after-noone it began to snuffle and blow so that we had much adoe to get vp our Anker This being done we stood East South East but the water shoalded apace Then we stood East and it deepened a little In the euening the winde came vp at West and then we stood East South-east into 10. and 8. and afterwards South-East as our depth did guide vs by our lead and the colour of the water into 7. and 6. faddomes The 20. at 6. in the morning we saw the land it being a very low flat land Wee stood into 5. faddomes to make it the better and so stood alongst it At noone wee were in lat 57. 00. We named it The new Principality of South Wales and drank a health in the best liquor we had to Prince Charles his Highnesse whom God preserue We stood alongst it and came to a point where it trends to the Southward neere to which point there are two small Ilands In the euening it was calme and we came to an Anker The tyde set as aforesaid There we rid all that night and the next day by reason the winde was contrary There went a chopping short Sea and the Ship did labour at it exceedingly leaping in Spreet-sayle yard Forecastell and all for as yet we had not trimmed her well to ride About nine at night it was very darke and it did blow hard Wee did perceiue by the lead the Ship did driue wherefore bringing the Cable to Capstang to heaue in our Cable for we did thinke we had lost our Anker the Anker hitcht againe and vpon the chopping of a Sea threw the men from the Capstang A small rope in the darke had gotten foule about the Cable and about the Masters legge too but with helpe of God hee did cleere himselfe though not without sore bruising The two Mates were hurt the one in the head the other in the arme One of our lustiest men was strooken on the brest with a bar that he lay sprawling for life another had his head betwixt the Cable and hardly escaped The rest were flung where they were sore bruised But our Gunner an honest and a diligent man had his legge taken betwixt the Cable and the Capstang which wrung off his foote and tare all the flesh off his legge and crushed the bone to pieces and sorely withall bruised all his whole body in which miserable manner hee remained crying till we had recouered our selues our memory and strengths to cleere him Whilest we were putting him and the rest downe to the Chirurgion the Ship droue into shoalde water which put vs all in feare we
being so sorely weakened by this blow which had hurt eight of our men It pleased God that the Anker held againe and shee rid it out all night By midnight the Chirurgion had taken off the Gunners legge at the gartering place and drest the others that were hurt and bruised after which we comforted each other as well as we could The 22. wee weyed and stood a little off into deeper water expecting a better winde Which in the afternoone fauoured vs. Wee stood in againe for the shoare and alongst it wee proceeded It is very shoald about foure leagues off and full of breaches The 23. at noone we were in latitude 56. 28. In the euening the winde came contrary and we were faine to turne to and againe All this moneth the winde hath beene very variable and continued not long vpon one point yet it happened so that we can get but little forward The 26. there sprung vp a fine gale at West but very thicke weather neuerthelesse wee stood into 7. and 6. fad the water very thicke and puddlelish At noone it cleered and we could see that we were imbayed in a little Bay the land being almost round about vs. We stood out of it and so alongst it in sight till the 27. in the morning when we came to higher land then any we had yet seene since we came from Nottingham Iland We stood into it and came to an Anker in 5. faddome I sent off the Boate well man'd and arm'd with order in writing what they were to doe and a charge to returne againe before Sunne-set The euening came and no newes of our Boate we shot and made false fires but had no answer which did much perplex vs doubting that there had some distaster befalne her through carelesnesse and in her we should lose all Wee aboord at present were not able to wey our Anker nor sayle the Ship At last we saw a fire vpon the shoare which made vs the more doubtfull because they did not answer our shot nor false fires with the like Wee thought withall that it had beene the Saluages who did now triumph in their conquest At length they came all safe and well and excused themselues in that vpon their comming ashoare it did ebbe so suddenly that a banke of sand was so presently dry without them as they could not come away till that was couered againe and with that they pacified mee They reported that there was great store of drift wood on the shoare and a good quantitie growing on the land That they saw the tracks of Deere and Beares good store of Fowle of which they had killed some but no signe of people That they past ouer two little riuers and came to a third which they could not passe That it did flow very neere three faddomes sometimes as appeared by the shoare That it was low water at foure a clocke that the flood came from the North-west and that it flowed halfe tyde which both they and we had perceiued by the Ship At low water we had but three faddome where we did ride The winde began to blow hard at East whereupon we weyed and stood to the Northward till midnight Then in againe and in the morning wee saw the land and then it began to blow hard and as we stood off it increased to a very storme so that at length wee could not maintaine a payre of courses but tryed vnder our Maine course all day and all night sometime turning her head to the Landward sometime to the Offing The 29. in the morning we made account we had drouen backe againe some 16. or 18. leagues and in the morning as it cleered wee saw a Ship to Leeward of vs some three or foure leagues so wee made sayle and bore vp with her Shee was then at an Anker in 13. fadd It was his Maiesties Ship and Captaine Foxe commanded in her I saluted him according to the manner of the Sea and receiued the like of him So I stood in to see the land and thought to tacke about and keepe weather of him and to send my Boat aboord of him but the winde shifted so that for that time I could not In the euening I came to weather of him and sent my Boat aboord of him who presently weighed and stood off with mee till midnight and then we stood in againe In the morning Captaine Foxe and his friends came aboord of mee where I entertained them in the best manner I could and with such fresh meat as I had gotten from the shoare I told him how I had named the land The South Principality of Wales I shewed him how farre I had beene to the Eastward where I had landed and in briefe I made knowne to him all the dangers of this Coast as farre as I had beene He told mee how himselfe had beene in Port Nelson and had made but a Cursory discouery hitherto and that he had not beene aland nor had not many times seene the land In the euening after I had giuen his men some necessaries with Tobacco and other things which they wanted hee departed aboord his Ship and the next morning stood away South South-west since which time I neuer saw him The winde something fauouring mee I stood in for the shoare and so proceeded alongst it in sight This moneth of August ended with Snow and Haile the weather being as cold as at any time I haue felt in England We coasted alongst the shoare in 10. faddomes and when it cleered in sight of land At length the water shoalded to 6. and 5. fadd and as it cleered we saw it all breaches to Leeward so we hull'd off North north-North-east but still raised land By night we had much adoe to get safely out of this dangerous Bay At midnight the winde came vp at South and so we tooke in our sayles and let the Ship driue to the Northward into deeper water This day was the first time the Chirurgion told mee that there were diuers of the men tainted with sicknesse At noone we were in latitude 55. 12. The second we stood in againe for the shoare but as we came in to shoald water it began to blow the weather being winterly and foule threatning a storme wherein we were not deceiued for that in standing off wee had a violent one By midnight it broke vp and the third in the morning wee stood in againe and by a 11. wee saw it Here wee found the land to trend South South-east and South so that we knew we were at a Cape Land and named it Cape Henrietta Maria by her Maiesties name Who had before named our Ship At noone we were in latitude 55. 05. and that is the height of the Cape From Port Nelson to this Cape the land trends generally East South-east but makes with points and Bayes which in the particulars doth alter it a point two or three The distance is about one hundred and
thirtie leagues the variation at this Cape taken by Amplitude is about sixteene degrees A most shoald and perilous coast in which there is not one Harbour to be found The third day in the afternoone we had a tearing storme at North which continued till midnight in extreme violence The fourth in the morning the storme being broke vp we stood in againe South-West The weather was very thicke and we sounded continually but by noone it cleered and we saw the land Here it did trend South by East and the tydes did set alongst it with a quicke motion In the euening there came a great rowling Sea out of the North North-east and by eight a clocke it blew very hard at South-east and by reason of the incounter of the winde and this great Sea the Sea was all in a breach and to make vp a perfect tempest it did so lighten snow raine and blow all the night long that I was neuer in the like We shipt many Seas but one most dangerous which rackt vs fore and aft that I verily thought it had sunke the Ship It strooke her with such a violence The Ship did labour most terribly in this distraction of winde and waues and we had much adoe to keepe all things fast in the hold and betwixt decks The fift in the morning the winde shifted South-West but changed not his condition but continued in his old anger and fury In the afternoone it shifted againe to the North-west and there showed his vttermost malice and in that tearing violence that nor I nor any that were then with mee euer saw the Sea in such a breach Our Ship was so tormented and did so labour with taking it in on both sides and at both ends that we were in a most miserable distresse in this so vnknowne a place At eight a clocke in the euening the storme brake vp and we had some quietnesse in the night following not one hauing slept one winke in 30. houres before If this storme had continued Easterly as it was at first without Gods goodnesse we had all perished The sixt the winde was at South-west so that wee could do no good to the Westward We spent the time therefore in trimming of our Ship we brought all our coales which for the most part was great Coale aft as we also did some other things and all to lighten her afore Others did picke our bread whereof there was much wet for doe what we could we shipt abundance of water betwixt decks which ranne into the hold and into our bread-roome for the Sea indeed so continually ouer-rackt vs that we were like Ionas in the Whales belly We ouer-looked our Tacks and Shoots with other Riggings of stresse because that henceforward we were to looke for no other but Winter weather This euening our Boate-swayne a painefull man and one that had laboured extremely these two or three dayes was very sicke swouning away three or foure times insomuch that wee thought verily he would presently haue dyed The seuenth in the morning the winde came vp at South-east and we stood away South-west vnder all the sayle we could make In this course we saw an Iland and came close aboord it and had twentie fadd water which was some comfort to vs for hitherto we could not come within foure or fiue leagues of the shoare at that depth This Iland stands in 54. 10. The afternoone we stood away South-west and in the euening had the shoalding of the Westerne shoare in 10. 8. and 7. fadd but it was so thicke that we could not see the land It is about 14. leagues betwixt this Iland and the Maine The eight was thicke foggie and calme which so continued till the ninth about sixe in the morning The winde then comming vp at South South-west though very foggy we stood to the Eastward keeping our lead going continually In the euening the water shoalded to 10. and 9. fadd wherefore we stood off and on all night The tenth we made it finding it an Iland of about 8. or 9. leagues long It stands in latitude 53. 5. and about 15. leagues from the Westerne shoare The part of it that we coasted trends West North-west I named it my Lord Westons Iland We stood still away to the Eastward it being broken foggie weather In the afternoone we discryed land to the Eastward of vs which made like three hils or hummockes Towards them we sayle keeping our lead still going and very circumspect At length wee also saw land to the Southward of vs whereupon we loofe vp and now make for that by course as we had set it in the thicke darke fogge We came in amongst such low broken grounds breaches and rockes that we knew not which way to turne vs but God be thanked it was but little winde and so we came to an Anker Soone after it cleered at which time we could see nothing but sands rocks and breaches round about vs that way onely excepted which we came in I sent presently the Boate to sound amongst the shoalds and rocks that if wee should be put to extremitie we might haue some knowledge which way to goe This night prooued calme and faire weather and we rid quietly The eleuenth in the morning I went in the Boate ashoare my selfe and whilst I was a land I sent the Boate about amongst the broken grounds to sound I found this Iland vtterly barren of all goodnesse yea of that which I thought easily to haue found which was Scuruy-grasse Sorrell or some herbe or other to haue refreshed our sicke people I could not perceiue that the tyde did flow here ordinarily aboue two foot There was much drift wood on the shore and some of it droue vp very high on the North side of the Iland whereby I iudged that the stormes were very great at North in the Winter Thus I returned aboord and sent many of our sicke men to another part of the Iland to see if they themselues could fortunately finde any reliefe for their griefes At noone by good obseruation we were in latitude 52. 45. In the euening our men returned comfortlesse and then we weyed and stood to the Westward comming to an Anker vnder another Iland in 20. faddomes The twelfth in the morning it began to blow hard at South-east which was partly of the shoare and the Ship began to driue it being soft oozie ground We heaued in our Anker thereupon and came to sayle vnder two courses Whilest the most were busie in heauing out of Top-sayles some that should haue had speciall care of the Ship ranne her ashoare vpon the rocks out of meere carelesnesse in looking out and about or heaving of the leade after they had seene the land all night long and mought euen then haue seene it if they had not been blinded with selfe conceit and beene enuiously opposite in opinions The first blow stroke me out of a dead sleepe and I running out of
heard of haue beene so long in such long nights vpon a foule shoald shoare tormented with Ice as we haue now beene At noone we were in Latitude 58. 20. Now as touching the dissolution or ruining of the Ice we found that this storme had torne and shattered this Rande of Ice which was on the outside although it must haue a long time to worke into the maine body of it I haue in Iuly and in the beginning of August taken some of the Ice into the Ship and cut it square 2. foote and put it into the boate where the Sunne did shine on it with a very strong reflexe about it And notwithstanding the warmth of the Ship for we kept a good fire and all our breathings and motions it would not melt in 8. or 10. dayes It was our practice when we should be two dayes together fast to a piece of Ice to set markes on it to see how it did consume but it yeelded vs small hope of dissoluing We could not in that time perceiue any diminution by the sinking of it or otherwise Neuerthelesse I thinke that it is ruined with stormes or consumed with heate some yeeres or else the Bay would be fild choke-full But I confesse that these secrets of nature are past my apprehension Being out of it but no otherwaies then that we yet saw it from off the deckes all to the Eastward I ordered the Master to stere away North and by East keeping the shoalding of the Wester-shoare The 18. at noone we were in Latitude 59. 30. The 19. we continued our course betwixt the N. N. E. and the N. by E. and at noone were in Lat. 61. 7. some 12. leagues off the shoare I ordered the Master to shape his course North-East to looke to that place betwixt Caries Swans-nest and Ne vltra The 20. we were in Latitude 61. 45. This day we saw some few Seales about the Ship The one and twentieth the water shoalded so that we made account we did approach the land but about noone the wind came vp at N. E. our direct opposite We looft as neere it as we could and as it larg'd we came to stand East and East and by North. The two and twentieth we fell with the land to the West-ward of Caries Swans-nest Where we had forty faddome three leagues off We stood in within a league of the shoare into thirteene faddome and seeing the land to the South-ward of vs we compast about it it being Caries Swans-nest which is in Latitude 52. degr 00. Minutes All the 23. we sayled north-North-East and for the most part in sight of land The foure and twentieth at noone by Iudgement we were in Latitude 63. 30. hauing sayld a north-North-East course All this day was a very thicke fog which about one a clocke cleerd a little so that I expected to see the land Some of our men being better sighted spyed it out about some two leagues off from vs. I knew it could be no other then Nottingham Iland though it were something contrary to the expectation of our best Marriners We stood into it to make it It was the North end of it and it bare off vs due East I was soone assured of it and I ordered the Master to shape his course North-West and by North. Both he and others were vnwilling but without much adoe submitted themselues how loth so euer for that it was so very foule thicke weather The reasons of my resolution were these The time of the yeere was far spent and the discommodities of Winter came vpon vs and therefore would I make the shortest way betwixt the lands already discouered If I found an open Sea I had my desire and did then intend to proceed to the vttermost of our power if we met with the land I should then finish the discouery it being not passing fifteene leagues from land to land and not passing tenne leagues from Nottingham Iland to the maine of the North shoare We made what sayle we could it blowing a very stiffe gale of wind vntill eight in the Euening then it began to blow fiercely and we tooke in our topsayles and stood vnder our two courses and Bonnets At nine it blew a violent storme at South South-East so that we tooke in our fore-saile and let her driue North-West All the night it continued an extraordinary storme so that we heaued the Leade euery halfe watch But the Ship did driue so fast that she would be past the Leade before there was twenty faddom of line out all the night being exceeding cold withall The fiue and twentieth the storme continued in his vttermost malice and did so perplexe vs that there were but few that did sleepe or eate a bit these twenty foure houres About sixe a clocke in the afternoone the Storme began to slaken yet blew there a fierce gale of wind betwixt the South and South-West We stood West North-West and made a North-West way when suddenly the Sea became very smooth We reasoned thereupon amongst our selues what might be the cause of it VVe all thought it to be the Lee-ward tyde nothing doubting what afterwards we encountered The Ship had very quicke way in this smooth water The sixe and twentieth by two a clocke in the morning we were suddenly come in amongst the Ice and it pleased God that the Moone at the instant gaue vs so much light that we could see a little about vs. We would haue staid the Ship but it was so thicke to wind-ward and so neere vs that we durst not Wee then bore vp in this vnexpected accident and I verily beleeue did not scape striking the length of a foote against the Ice as hard as rockes two or three times the Shippe now hauing way after twelue leagues a watch Then wee stood close by a wind to the Eastward expecting day that wee might see about vs. Wee could from top-mast head see the Ice to the North North-West the North-west and so round about by the South to the East and some there was to Leeward of vs. It was all flat sound Ice in maine rands and the Sea as smooth as a well amongst it This strooke vs all into a dumpe whereupon I called a consultation of my Associates namely Arthur Price Master William Clements Lieutenant Iohn Whittered Masters Mate Nathaniel Bilson Chirurgion and Iohn Palmer Boateswayne requiring them to aduise and counsell mee how to prosecute our businesse to effect These all went together and reasoned amongst themselues and then brought me their opinions in writing vnder their hands Videlicet Our aduice is that you repaire homeward from this present twentie sixth and that for these reasons First for that the nights are long and so extreme cold withall that we can hardly handle our sayles and riggings Secondly the times are now subiect to stormy and gusty weather as witnesseth the present season it hauing continued a storme euer since the twentie fourth and doth
OF THE Letter I left at CHARLETON fastened to the Crosse the first of Iuly 1632. BE it knowne to any that shall haply arriue here on this Iland of Charleton That whereas our Soueraigne Lord Charles the first King of England Scotland France and Ireland Defender of the faith c. hauing a desire to be certified whether there were any passage or not by the North-west or Northwestward thorow these Territories into the South Sea Some of the better-minded Merchants of the Worshipfull Company of Merchant-aduenturers of the Citie of Bristoll to satisfie his Maiestie therein did voluntarily offer to set forth a conuenient Ship for that purpose well man'd victualed and furnished with all other necessaries This free offer of theirs was not only commended but graciously accepted of his Maiestie Whereupon they fitted and furnished foorth a Ship called the Henrietta Maria of the burthen of seuentie Tuns victualed for eighteene moneths A number thought conuenient to mannage such a businesse was twentie two whereof nineteene were choiceable men two yonkers and my vnworthy selfe their Commander All which the Bristow Merchants did most iudiciously and bountifully accommodate and had in a readinesse the first of May 1631. The third of May we began our Voyage out of the Rode of Bristoll commonly called Kings Rode Passing about the Cape Cleere of Ireland vpon many courses but reduced to a West North-west we sayled along and vpon the 4. of Iune wee made the land of Groynland to the Northward of Cape Farewell where for the space of two dayes we were dangerously ingagde amongst the Ice Being cleere of it we doubled Cape Farewell to the Southward and so continued our course to the Westward continually sayling and thrusting the Ship thorow much Ice The 19. of Iune we made the Iland of Resolutiō endeuouring to cōpasse about it to the Southward we were taken with a strong Westerly wind which droue the Ice and it vs vpon the shoare In that distresse seeing it was broken grounds and maine inlets into it I sent the Shallop to seek sound a place for our refuge but when she was departed she was in as great danger as we and could not returne to vs by reason of the Ice We being now driuen very neere the rocks were faine to set our Sayles and force the Ship into an opening aduenturing her amongst vnknowne dangers to auoyd apparent before we could moore her in a place as we thought safe from danger The 22. of Iune this Inlet being full of Ice that Ice vpon the ebbe so Iambde one piece into another that it altred the ordinary course of it it came vpon the Ship and put her against the rocks notwithstanding our vtmost resistance As the water ebd away the Ship hung by the Keele vpon a rocke and heeld to the Offing As soone as we perceiued this we made fast some Hawsers to her Masts and to the rocks to hold her vpright But all in vaine shee sunke still as the water ebb'd away so that she was so turned ouer that we could not stand in her Hereupon we got all vpon a piece of Ice looking vpon her praying God to be mercifull to vs. The rocke that she hung vpon was a little abaft the maine Mast which made her hang after the head and shee sunke ouer so much that the Portlasse of the Forecastell was in the water At length it pleased God the flood came before it had ebd so low as the tyde before and after by a foote and the Ship rose and was safe and sound And thus were we miraculously deliuered With the first winde we proceeded to the Westward continually being pestred with so much Ice that it was about the middle of Iuly before we could attaine to Sir Dudly Digges Iland And here I was put to my consideration for whereas by my directions I was to search especially two places one from Digges Iland to the Northward and fayling there to goe to the Checks and Hubberts Hope and so to search it to the Southward I now finding the Sea much pestred with Ice in the latitude of 64. 00. and as farre as we could see to the Northward and that the time was so farre spent as that before I could do any thing that way it would be Aug. then as much trouble to returne againe to Digges Iland and that by that time the yeere would be so farre spent the nights so long and cold that I feard I should be forced with shame to returne into England againe that yeere Wherefore I tooke my way to the Westward by Mansfields Iland on which I landed twice still hindred and incumbred with Ice Thence I proceeded to the Westward hoping for an open Sea in the Bay We were there more troubled with Ice then in any place before so that it was the eleuenth day of August before we had sight of the Western land which we made in latitude 59. 30. something to the Southward of the Checkes Wee were not able to attaine thither by reason of the contrary winds and Ice but were obseruant of the currant of the tydes which after by experience we found to come from the Northward We coasted alongst the shoare in sight of land and in 10. faddome water to the Southward and entred that Inlett which heretofore was called Hubberts Hope which was the very place where the passage should be as it was thought by the vnderstandingest and learnedest intelligencer of this businesse in England We sayld to the very bottome of it into three faddom water and found it to be a Bay of some 18. or 19. leagues deepe From thence we proceeded to the Southward in sight of land for the most part and although I was as carefull to keepe the lead alwaies going it blowing a fresh gale of winde and a pretty bigge Sea our depth 8. 9. 10. faddome yet before the lead was vp the Ship strook vpon a flat rocke she then being vnder foresayle fore top-sayle maine top-sayle and Spreetsayle and gaue three fore knocks and got ouer it Being past this danger we proceeded and past by Port Nelson Finding the land trend to the Eastward wee began our discouery of it more carefully because that no man that euer I could heare or reade of did euer see this land before Wee stood into sixe and fiue faddome for it is very low land and trends for the most part East South-east and East by South The seuen and twentieth of August I entred vpon it and in the name of the Merchants Aduenturers of Bristoll tooke possession of it to his Maiesties vse naming it The New South-west Principalitie of Wales I brought from the land some small trees and herbs and killed diuers sorts of fowle in signe of seysure which I brought aboord Not long after being put backe to the Westward with contrary winds we spake with Captaine Fox in a Ship of his Maiesties set forth for the same purpose that we were I inuited him aboord
not be gotten vp to staue them Then to quoile all our Cables vpon our lower tyre and to lay on our spare Ankers and any thing that was weighty to keepe it downe from rising By seuen a Clocke it blew a storme at North-West our bitter enemy The Ship was already bedded some two foote in the sand and whilst that was a flowing shee must beate This I before had in my consideration for I thought she was so farre driuen vp that we should neuer get her off Yet we had bin so ferrited by her last beating that I resolued to sinke her right downe rather then runne that hazzard By nine a cloke she began to rowle in her docke with a most extraordinary great Sea that was come which I found to be occasioned by the formentioned ouerfall And this was the fatall houre that put vs to our wits end Wherefore I went downe in hold with the Carpenter and tooke his auger and board a hole in the Ship and let in the water Thus with all speed we began to cut out other places to boare thorow but euery place was full of nailes By tenne notwithstanding the lower tyre was couered with water for all which she began so to beate in her docke more and more that we could not worke nor stand to doe any thing in her Nor would she sinke so fast as we would haue her but continued beating double blowes first abaft and then before that it was wonderfull how she could indure a quarter of an houre with it By twelue a clocke her lower Tyre rose and that did so counter-beate on the inside that it beat the bulke heads of the Bread-roome powder-roome and fore piece all to pieces and when it came betwixt deckes the chests fled wildly about and the water did flash and flie wonderfully so that now we expected euery minute when the Ship would open and breake to pieces At one a clocke shee beat off her Rudder and that was gone we knew not which way Thus shee continued beating till three a clocke and then the Sea came vp on the vpper decke and soone after shee began to settle In her wee were faine to sinke the most part of our bedding and clothes and the Chirurgions Chest with the rest Our men that were ashoare stood looking vpon vs almost dead with cold and sorrowes to see our misery and their owne We lookt vpon them againe and both vpon each other with woefull hearts Darke night drew on and I bade the Boate to be haled vp and commanded my louing companions to goe all into her who in some refusing complements expressed their faithfull affections to mee as loth to part from me I told them that my meaning was to goe ashoare with them And thus lastly I forsooke the Ship We were seuenteene poore soules now in the Boate and we now imagined that we were leapt out of the Frying pan into the fire The ebbe was made and the water extraordinary thicke congealed with snow so that we thought assuredly it would carry vs away into the Sea We thereupon doublemand foure oares appointing foure more to sit ready with oares and so with the helpe of God we got to the shoare haling vp the Boate after vs. One thing was most strange in this thicke water namely That there went a great swelling Sea Being arriued vpon the land we greeted our fellowes the best we could at which time they could not know vs nor we them by our habits nor voyces so frozen all ouer wee were faces haire and apparell And here I meane to take breath awhile after all this long and vnpleasant Relation of our miserable endeauours Crauing leaue first of all to speake a word or two in generall The winds since we came hither haue beene very variable and vnconstant and till within this fortnight the Southerly winde was the coldest The reason I conceiue to be for that it did blow from the Maine land which was all couered with snow and for that the North winds came out of the great Bay which hitherto was open Adde to that we were now vnder a South Banke which did shelter vs so that we were not so sensible of it A North-west a North-west by North and a North-North-west winde if it blew a storme would raise the Tydes extraordinarily and in briefe from the West Northwest to the North North-east would raise the tydes in proportion as they did blow from the middle point The wind being on the opposite points if it blew it would flow very little at all The harder it blew the lesse water it would flow If it were little winde or calme it would flow indifferently The tydes doe high ordinarily without being forced about three foot but being forced with the forementioned winds vpward of ten foot I could perceiue no difference betwixt Neape and spring tydes It flowes halfe tyde that is the flood comes from the Northward and thither returnes againe two houres before it be high water and it is commonly so seene in most Bayes or Inlets The VVintering AFter we had haled vp the Boate we went alongst the breach side in the darke towards our house where we made a good fire and with it and bread and water wee thawde and comforted our selues beginning after that to reason one with another concerning our Ship I requir'd that euery one should speak his mind freely The Carpenter especially was of the opinion that she was founderd and would neuer be seruiceable againe He alledged that she had so beaten that it was not possible but that all her Ioints were loose and seames open and that by reason it flowed so little water and no Creeke nor Coue being neere wherein to bring her aground he could not deuise how he might come to mend it Moreouer her Rudder was lost and he had no Iron-worke to hang on another Some alledged that we had heaued her vp so high vpon the sands that they thought we should neuer haue her off againe and that they were assured she was already dockt three foote Others that she lay in the Tydes way and that the Ice might teare her to pieces off the ground besides which two of our Ankers we could not now get from vnder the Ice which when the Ice brake which would be of a great thickenesse by the Spring would breake our Ankers to pieces and then we should haue no Ankers to bring vs home withall supposed we got off the ship that she proued sound also I comforted them the best I could with such like words My Masters and faithfull Companions be not dismaide for any of these disasters but let vs put our whole trust in God It is he that giueth and he that taketh away he throwes downe with one hand and raiseth vp with another His will be done If it be our fortunes to end our dayes here we are as neere heauen as in England and we are much bound to God Almighty for giuing vs so large a time of repentance