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A64495 The travels of Monsieur de Thevenot into the Levant in three parts, viz. into I. Turkey, II. Persia, III. the East-Indies / newly done out of French.; Relation d'un voyage fait au Levant. English Thévenot, Jean de, 1633-1667.; Lovell, Archibald. 1687 (1687) Wing T887; ESTC R17556 965,668 658

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was advised to it by other Portuguese for he answered haughtily that he would not be taught by any man what he was to do Nevertheless his bravery not succeeding according to his expectation Unseasonable bravery and finding himself hard put to it he became calmer and gave consent but too late to follow that Counsel for the Enemies were under the Walls and at length he was forced to Surrender the place So soon as the Persians became Masters of it they opened the Canal as well knowing the importance of it Oisters at Ormus They catch excellent Oisters about the Isle of Ormus they are as small as English Oisters but so hard that it is not possible to open them with a Knife nay it is not very easie neither to break them with a Hammer The Sand of O●●…s The Sand of Ormus is also much talked of for the dusting of writing and for that end a great deal of it is Transported into Christendom Lareca A League to the South-West of Ormus is the Isle of Lareca which is longer than Ormus but the Ground as bad and Sandy It reaches in length from North North-West to South South-East and there is nothing remarkable in it unless it be the Fort and that is no great matter neither The Dutch began it under colour of settling a Factory there but the Persians smelling out their design drove them off and finished it it is at present kept by a very few men A little farther off to the West Error in Geography Quesomo South-West about a League and a half from Lareca though it be marked five in the Map is the Isle of Quesomo which is twenty Leagues in length it is Fruitful and well Inhabited and stretches from East to West The Land about Gomron or Bender-Abassi is no better than that of Ormus The Land about Bender-Abassi or Gomron is good for nothing for it is all Sand the water they drink there is brought from a Cistern without the Town they drink also of another which is esteemed better water and that out of a Well three Parasanges distant from the Town in a place called Isin both are very dear because of the trouble in bringing them so far nevertheless the water is very unwholesome because of little Worms that are in it which if they be drank down with the water slide betwixt the Flesh and the Skin Worms between the Skin and the Flesh and fall down into the Legs where they grow to the full length of the Leg and are never bigger than a Lute-string as I have been told for I never saw any of them this causes a great deal of pain they make a little hole in the Skin through which they shew their Head and for a Cure they must be drawn by little and little out of that hole drawing only a little every day and twisting it about a stick according as they draw it out until it be wholely out but this requires a great deal of patience for if they draw too much out at one time or draw too hard it breaks and what remains in the Leg causes racking pains for which there is no other remedy but to lay open the Leg and make the Incision as long as that which remains to be taken out This water has another bad quality in that it swells the Testicles The meat is also very unwholesome at Bender-Abassi and they scarcely eat any but Kids Flesh which is the best of the bad and Pullets In fine the best way to preserve ones Health at Bender-Abassi is to keep a very regular Diet Remedies for keeping ones Health at Bender eating so moderately that one hath always an Appetite to quench a red hot Iron in the water to strain it afterwards through a Linnen Cloath and to be always chearful There is no Pasture-Ground in all that Territory and therefore the Cows Hogs and other Beasts live hardly upon any thing else but Fish-Heads Shell-Fish stones of Dates and a little Hay which is brought some Parasanges off and indeed the Milk tasts altogether Fishy for I speak by experience their Horses they feed with Hay and Barley After all there cannot be a more dangerous Air than that of Comoron especially in Summer when it is so excessively hot Cruel and dangerous heat at Bender-Abassi that the Inhabitants are forced to leave it and remove three or four Parasanges off where most of them live in Tents nay the very Garison of the Fort removes leaving only a few men who are weary of their lives Nevertheless that place so abandoned is in no danger of being surprised because that time is the Winter of the Indies wherein there is such terrible Rain Great Thunderings at Bender Wind and Thunder that it would seem the World were to be reduced to its first Chaos so that during that Season no Ship can keep the Sea where Shipwrack is inevitable And indeed there is but one Season for crossing over to the Indies which the Portuguese have named Mouson Mouson and which they have certainly borrowed from the Arabick word Mouson which signifies Season but in short that word is used in all Languages to signifie the time of Sailing which lasts one half of the Year to wit from the end of October to the end of April Bender has a pretty safe Road for to the North it hath the main Land of Persia The Road of Bender-Abassi to the South the Isle of Ormus and to the South-West Lareca which is to the Westward of Ormus from which it is but a League distant Vessels come to an Anchor in it near to the Isle of Ormus on the West side and to go to the Indies they Sail betwixt the Isle of Ormus which is to the South of Bender-Abassi and the Coast of Arabia Foelix A Parasange to the East of Comoron there is one of those Trees called the Banians Trees because the Banians make commonly Pagods under them Banians Trees the Portuguese call it the Tree of Roots because Roots come out of every Branch that fasten in the Ground and grow as other Trees do in so much that one of these Trees may make a whole Forest I shall not describe it because I never saw it since there was no going thither by reason of the excessive heat The Author saw it since in his Travels in the Indies where he has given a description of it and therefore I refer the Reader to Linschot and Jonston who have given a description of it Under this there is a Pagod or Temple of the Banians I stayed but a week at Bender-Abassi and then was obliged to turn back again there being no probability that I could embark there for the Indies seeing I must have run too great a danger if I had stayed longer for a favourable occasion There were but six Vessels there which were bound for the Indies four Dutch Ships one Armenian and a Moor as for the
men attempted to hall her out of the water by one side that she might be emptied by the other but the weight of the water bulged one of her sides and then she overset so that despairing to recover her unless with much labour and the loss of a great deal of time and fearing besides that she might dash against the Hold of the Ship because it was then a very rough Sea they cut the Ropes and let her go though it was near a hundred Piastres loss to the Owner of the Ship This made us lose a whole hours time and in the mean while one of the Ships which the day before was to our Starboard got a Head of us About half an hour after seven in the morning we made Sail with a North Wind. About half an hour after nine we were off of an Island to our Larboard which we took to be Audarvia but we were mistaken About ten a Clock the violence of the Wind began to abate and we Steered away East South-East About two a Clock after-noon we made a little Island to the Larboard very near the main Land and knew it be Audarvia and that the other which we past about half an hour after nine in the morning and took for Audarvia was Lara This Isle of Lara is a little Desart very low place Lara close by the main Land which is the reason that it is not easily discovered it bears nothing unless it be some wild Trees and that too only at one end of it which lyes to the West North-West and was to us the beginning of the Isle as our Course lay it may be known by these Trees It lyes in length from West North-West to East South-East and is threescore and ten Leagues from Carek Audarvia The Isle of Audarvia is in like manner little low and very near the main Land and lyes in length as Lara does from West North-West to East South-East there is good water in this Island and in the middle of it some wild Trees and the Cottages of some Fishermen who come from the main Land to Fish there it being seven or eight Leagues from Lara It is worth the observing that though these two Isles be very near the Land as I have been saying yet they leave a passage betwixt them and the main Land which may admit of Ships because it is very deep water and Ships sometimes shoot that passage The Wind freshning in the afternoon at three quarters of an hour after two a Clock we were got to the farther end of the Island and an hour after made the Isle of Keis to the South-East About half an hour after four we got on Head of the Ship that was before us in the morning and at the same time we were off and on with the hithermost end of the Isle of Keis Keis which was to our Starboard side This Island is about two Leagues and a half from the main Land or three at most and about five Leagues from Audarvia though they reckon it fifteen Leagues from Lara to Keis it reaches in length from West South-West to East North-East and is about five Leagues in Circuit it is very low and flat like the two former but it is inhabited by several people who have Houses dispersed here and there upon it I was told that heretofore the Inhabitants of that Island having killed a Portuguese who had gone a shoar there for some insolence which he had committed sometime after other Portuguese Ships coming thither the Admiral called Roui-Fereyra-Andrada went a shoar upon the Island and taking a Sucking-Child put it into a Mortar and by an unparalelled piece of cruelty A horrid piece of cruelty of a Portuguese made the Father and Mother of the innocent Babe pound it themselves in the Mortar This General was a Devil incarnate and it was his usual way so to revenge himself on the Inhabitants of those Coasts when they had done him any displeasure his name is to this day so terrible unto them that they use it to still their little Children when they cry threatning them with Lowis de Fereyra In the mean time that inhumanity made many forsake the Island that they might not be exposed to such cruel usage nevertheless some abode still and have Cattel there I was told that heretofore there were all sorts of Fruits on this Island but that since the Portuguese have left off to go thither there are no more to be found I was likewise assured that there is excellent water in the North-West and East ends of the Isle About five a Clock in the evening we furled our Mizan Mizan-Top Main-Top and Fore-Top-Sails that we might not make so much way because on this Coast there are places where the water is very shallow About seven a Clock at night we were got off of the other end of the Isle of Keis and then the Wind slackened much half an hour after we came off and on a place of the main Land where the shoar opens towards the East and forms a Gulf in shape of a half Circle and the outmost point of that half Circle is called Gherd All that day we had kept very near the main Land which to that Gulf bears West North-West and East South-East When we were just off the beginning of this Gulf a gentle Gale blowing from East north-North-East made us to Steer our Course South-East and we made the Land called Gherd to the East South East About ten a Clock at night we stood away South South-East and heaving out the Lead found seventeen Fathom water within a quarter of an hour after the Wind turning North-West we bore away South but because it instantly blew too hard we furled the Main-Sail and Steered South South-East About three quarters after ten we Steered South-East and casting the Lead found fifteen Fathom water Sunday the two and twentieth of November at two a Clock after midnight we were got off of the Isle of Paloro to our Starboard Paloro our Course was then East South-East and having sounded we found thirteen Fathom water whereupon we turned the Ships Head South South-East A quarter after two we heaved the Lead several times and found betwixt six and seven Fathom water Three quarters after two we bore away East South-East and casting the Lead found first fifteen then ten and a little farther only eight Fathom water we had then to the Larboard a Mountain on the main Land Mount Sannas called Sannas Half an hour after five in the morning we had but five Fathom water At six a Clock we found twelve and then we Steered East north-North-East and at eight a Clock in the morning came before Congo distant from Keis fifteen Leagues by Land and thirty by Sea an hundred from Carek and an hundred and fifty from Bassora from Congo to Comoron it is twenty Leagues by Land and thirty by Sea. We came to an Anchor in the Road a long half League
hour after eight we had seven Fathom water About ten a Clock seven Fathom a Foot less About half an hour after eleven seven Fathom and then we set the Ships Head East South East but at midnight held our Course South Next morning half an hour after five we had thirteen Fathom water and were almost at an equal distance from the Isle of Queschimo which was to the north-North-East of us the Isle of Nabdgion or Pitombo South South-West of us and the Isle of Tonbo South East from us and we bore away East Queschimo is a great Isle but low Land though it hath several Hillocks Queschimo yet they are all so low that Sailing along this Island on any side you may see the Mountains of the main Land over it It lyes in length East and West is not very broad but twenty Leagues long it is to the East of Congo and West South-West from Comoron it is a fruitful and well inhabited Island the West end of it not being above a good League and a half from Congo and the East end about a League from Bender-Abassi On the East part of this Island there is a Fort before which Ships may come to an Anchor in six Fathom water to take in fresh water which is very good in this place The Portuguese formerly held this Fort and it may be worth the observing that though the Island be very near the main Land yet Barks and Galliots pass betwixt the two Nabdgion or Pitombo is a little low Desart Island lying South Nabgion or Pitombo Tonbo South-East from Queschimo Tonbo is another little low flat Island and Desart affoarding only a great many Antelopes and Conys It lyes to the East of Nabdgion or Pitombo and South from Congo from which it is but four Leagues distant Manuel Mendez who had much experience in those Seas being very young when he came into that Country where he hath during the space of many years made several Voyages made me observe that if any one should build a Fort on that Island and keep some Men of War there he might easily raise a Toll upon all the Ships that Trade in those Seas for they must of necessity Sail near to that Island on the one side or other Towards the South-East it has fifteen or twenty Wells of good water but especially one that is excellent and a good Road before it When the Portuguese were possessed of Mascate they came every year with some Galliots to the Isle of Tonbo to receive the Tribute that was paid them in all the Ports of those Seas and brought thither by those who were obliged to pay it The yearly Tribute they had from the Isle of Queschimo consisted of five Persian Horses and two Falcons Congo payed four hundred Tomans Bahrem sixteen thousand Abassis and Catif the half of the yearly profits of its Customs as for Bassora there was a Portuguese Agent that resided there who received a Chequin a day of the Basha and as often as the General came to that Town the Basha made him a Present This Island is encompassed all round with Banks under water nevertheless there is almost every where four six eight nay in some places nine Fathom water About half an hour after seven the Wind slackened much and we Steered South South East about eleven a Clock we found nine Fathom water and seeing we were almost becalmed and the Tide cast us to the Westward we were obliged to drop an Anchor half an hour after one a Clock at noon We were some three Leagues off of Sannas which was to the West North-West of us to the North-West and by West it makes a Peak but the Hill is higher than the Peak we went thither to take in water for the water is very good there though it be about two Leagues from the West point of Queschimo which was to the North-West of us About four a Clock we had a Breeze from South South-West which made us Steer our Course South-East About six a Clock we had twenty Fathom water Half an hour after seven the Wind turned North-West and we bore away East at eight a Clock we found eighteen Fathom water half an hour after that eighteen and a half and we stood away East and by North. About nine a Clock the Wind freshened a little and we had twenty Fathom water at ten a Clock we had one and twenty and about half an hour after ten we Steered our Course East Wednesday the ninth of December about day break the Wind ceased and we Steered still East the Isle of Angom was to the North-East of us and not far off and on the other side to the South-East we had a Port of Arabia Foelix called Julfar which is a good Harbour where many Indian Barks carrying mony come to buy Dates Julfar Pearl-Fishing and Pearls which are Fished all along that Coast from Mascat to Bahrem there is a good Castle at Julfar From that Port to the Cape of Mosandon the Coast of Arabia the Happy is all Mountanous bearing South-West and north-North-East and runs so near the Persian shoar that there is but five Leagues betwixt the main Land of Mosandon and the Isle of Lareca which is close by Comoron Betwixt Julfar and Mosandon Good Ports in the Gulf which are not set down in the Maps there are a great many good Ports that are not set down in the Maps where notwithstanding several Ships may safely Winter secure from all Winds and there is every where very good water About half an hour after seven in the morning the Wind turned North-East and we Steered our Course East South-East We were then off and on with the Point of Angom which bears West North-West Angom Angom is a little low Island to the South of Queschimo and reaches along Queschimo from West North-West to East South-East no body lives in it but two or three Fishermen who keep some Goats which they sell to Ships that come there to take in fresh water where it is very good Though this Island be very near to Queschimo yet Ships may pass betwixt them and all that take in water there shoot the Streight About noon we bore away South-East and at one a Clock having cast the Lead we had eight and thirty Fathom water we were then becalmed and made no way but by the Tide of Ebb which cast us upon Arabia so that we were obliged to stand off of it as far as we could to turn the Ships Head East North-East nevertheless towards the evening we were got very near the Mountains of Arabia wherefore to keep off of that shoar as much we could we Steered away North-East and by East and the Tide of floud did us some service About seven a Clock the Wind seemed as if it would get in to North but it blew so gentlely that it hardly curled the water Thursday the tenth of December about half an hour after four in the morning we
they would be in danger of committing great errours at Sea because of the Tides and Currents that either drive the Log forwards or backwards and to be assured of the exactness of that account the Log must be fixed and immoveable But the English are not mistaken for besides that invention of Miles they dayly take an observation of the Suns height besides they heave out the Log at every change encrease or decrease of the Wind. The English reckon their Miles at five hundred Geometrical paces only that is five Foot to the pace Cape of Jasques Carpella The distance of Ormus from Cape Jasques About half an hour after six we were off of the Cape of Jasques anciently called Carpella it lyes in five and twenty degrees and a half North Latitude and in thirty Leagues from Ormus From that Cape the Land bears East and by South to the River of Indus At Cape Jasques about half a Mile or a Mile up on Land there is a kind of a sorry Fort with about forty Houses inhabited by a sort of very poor people who live on Barley and drink nothing but water and that very brackish too they have two Barks or Taranquins wherein they carry Wood to sell at Mascat That wretched place is called Jasques and depends on the Governour of Comron who sends whom he pleases to Command in it Thursday the seventeenth of December about six a Clock in the morning we clapt on our Main-Top-Galant-Sail and stood away East keeping in sight of the Land of Persia least the Wind might force us too far out to Sea which about eleven a Clock turned north-North-East At noon we found that from Sun setting the day before we had run threescore and one Miles or twenty Leagues and a third at the rate of three Miles a League At one of the Clock we bore away East and by South About four a Clock the Wind chopping about to West we bore away South-East and by East About half an hour after five we had East North-East of us a little low Isle close by the Persian shoar which in that place is very low About six a Clock we were off and on with that little Isle Friday the eighteenth of December in the morning we Steered our Course East and by South and at noon we found that from that time the day before we had made eight and thirty Leagues then the Wind got into North-West and we bore away South-East and by East that we might not run within Land which we obscurely made on Head a little to the Larboard Next morning the Wind abated and therefore we stood away East and by South At noon we found by our reckoning that we had in the last four and twenty hours made five and twenty Leagues and a half Then the Captain Mate and Gunner took an Observation of the Sums height with a Quadrant as well as they could for none of the three had much skill in it and the Ma●e least of all all three agreed that we were in twenty four degrees thirty minutes Latitude About evening the Wind shifted into South-West but it was so easie that scarcely did it curl the water yet we Steered away South-East and by East that we might not be cast a shoar Sunday the twentieth of December it continued still calm weather so that at noon we found we had made but five Leagues way and our Men having taken their Observation found that we were still in the Latitude of twenty four degrees thirty minutes as we were the day before and that day every one was stinted to a measure and a half of water by day Towards the evening we made the Land of Persia and were but about five Leagues off of it which made us Steer away South-East and by South and stand out to Sea contrary to the opinion of the Mate who would have kept in by the Shoar giving this reason for it that we needed not fear to be cast too far to the Leeward as the Captain said because at that time the East Wind blows along the Coast of Sindy and besides being near Land in case it proved bad weather we might come to an Anchor and take in water which we were affraid we might come to want But the chief reason why he would have stood in to shoar and which he kept to himself was that he might know the place where he was for these are such an ignorant sort of Men that so soon as they lose sight of Land they know no more where they are The Captain made answer to all his reasons that it was bad advice to make us double our way without any necessity and that we had no reason to go look for East Winds having the Wind at South-West which though it was easie still kept us going on in our Course and would if it freshened bring us in a short time whither we were bound and in that case we needed not go look for water whereof as yet we had no want besides that by standing in to shoar we run a risk of meeting the Zinganes those Pirats I mentioned before whom no body desired to see and we put our selves also in danger of not being able to get out to Sea again for a long time if the Wind which we had lasted because we must wait for another Wind which perhaps might not offer in some weeks time In fine it behoved the Pilot to acquiesce to this judgment which was approved by all of us nay the Gunner was for having us steer our Course more to the Southward and he was not out in that for the Coast of Cape Jasques bears West and by North and East and by South and we Steered South-East and by East from which substracting a Point and a half which is the variation of the Needle and then our Course would prove to be East a Point and a half towards South and so we were but half a Point to the Windward of the Land of Persia and this Course carried us streight to the Gulf which is to the Northward of the Isle of Diu but the Captain would not change his Course fearing to meet with an East Wind which would have driven him too far above the place whither we were bound and therefore he would not bear away South till he was near the Isle of Diu. Monday the one and twentieth of December our Observers found at noon that we were in twenty four degrees twenty five minutes Latitude and that we had run ten Leagues Next day they found twenty four degrees five minutes Latitude and that we had run fourteen Leagues the last twenty four hours About four a Clock in the afternoon the Heaven was on all Hands overcast with thick black Clouds and at the same time there arose a small Gale from West North-West which presently drove the Clouds upon us we expected a strong Gust of Wind but we were excused for a shower of Rain which was indeed violent but lasted not without
any flurry of Wind or rough water for the Sea was not at all moved At the same time these Storms began to appear in the Air others began to work in our Captains Head which caused a real Tempest in the Ship. He had drunk several Cups of Brandy which began to heat his Brains however he ordered the Sails to be taken in as it is usual when they see a Storm a comeing but presently after a fancy taking him in the Head that they accused him of timorousness and saying that he had heard some say he was affraid though no body had spoken a word he fell into a sudden rage and to shew that he was a Man of Courage commanded all the Sails high and low to be set again though the Mate prayed him not to do it and that the Sea-men stayed two or three Orders before they obeyed him which incensing him the more he swore that the Sails should stand whatsoever weather blew that he might make those dy for fear that had said he was affraid adding a thousand more impertinent raveings Never did Captain on a Stage shew so many Rodomontadoes and that for several hours during which he tried all the Ships patience without the least word of answer from any Man. At four a Clock the Wind turning West we stood away East South-East Half an hour after four we had a great shower of Rain which soon was over and immediately after the Wind fell a shifting into all the Points till at length it settled at North-East and we bore away East South-East In the mean time all our Sails were abroad except the Main-Top-Galant-Sail which he had likewise caused to be put on but was immediately after taken in About six a Clock the Wind veering about to East we Steered away South South-East At seven a Clock we were more becalmed than before and we turned the Ships Head East and by South Wednesday morning the three and twentieth of December one of our Sea-men took with a Hook a Fish called a Dorado Dorado a Fish which was about two Foot long and four Inches broad from the middle of the Back to the middle of the Belly but not very thick the Skin a long the Back and half way the Sides of it was of a Violet blue and the Belly of a yellowish white but full of little round Violet coloured specks it had along the Back a blue Skin streatched as it were upon little bones or prickles which made it bristle up about an inch and a half high the Eyes of it were large and round under the Gills it had on each side a Fin three Fingers breadth long which stood out very streight and two others under the Throat near one another and another at the Roots and then widening by degrees to the points it had two more of the same fashion near the Tail but it had no Teeth It was very brisk and lively when it was pulled out of the water but as the force of it spent that Skin which before was streatched like a piece of Cloath upright upon the Back of it flagged and fell flat to the Body as well as its Fins They told me that there were some of those Fish a Fathom and a half long that they call them Doradoes that is to say gilt because the ground of their Skin is in some manner of the colour of Gold the English call them Dolphins It is good meat and of easie digestion the Flesh of it is firm and delicate and it feeds on a kind of small flying Fish which being pursued rise out of the water and fly above a Ships length falling sometimes into Ships as one did into ours On Sunday the seven and twentieth of December I handled and considered it at leisure it was shaped like a Herring and seven inches long the Back of it was of a very dark blue and the Belly white on each side it had a Wing almost five inches long and about four inches broad these Wings are only a thin Skin of a very obscure blue colour streatched upon little Nerves or Bones which reach from the side of the Fish to the extremity of the Skin When it is pursued by the Doradoes it leaps out of the Water and flies in the Air so long as the Wings of it are moist and when they dry it falls again into the water When these Wings are dry they fold together like a Fan and that Fishes Wings which I Handled were folded in that manner it is very good to eat We could have no Observation at noon because the Sun was over Clouded and must then be satisfied with our dead reckoning according to which we had made but nine Leagues from noon to noon At eight a Clock at night a Coal of fire fell out of a Tobacco-Pipe into the Gun-Room through the hole of the Whip-staff and by good fortune the two Women slaves of Manuel Mendez who lodged in that place soon perceived it and put it out and then being all in a fright they cried out for help they who had done this were enquired after but in vain for it was impossible to find out the Authors had not God in his great mercy preserved us from the danger of that accident we must all have unfortunately perished Thursday the four and twentieth of December at four of the Clock in the morning there fell a great deal of Rain and it continued showring by intervals with great Thunder-Claps till half an hour after six when the Rain was quite over we had a good Wind from North-West which made us run a League and a half an hour but it was close weather and the Captain ordered to Steer away East whereby we altered our Course and stood in to Land when I asked him the reason of it he told me he was affraid he might find the Wind at East north-North-East which would force us out from the place to which we were bound but the truth was he had a mind to make the Land that he might know where we were for neither he the mate nor Gunner could tell it At eight a Clock the Wind turned Easterly and we stood away South South-East At nine a Clock it shifted to South-East and we Steered South which was a very bad Course for following it we must have run far below the place whither we were bound About ten a Clock the Wind being got into the South South-East we bore away East but all of a sudden the Wind slackened At noon we had the Wind at South and we Steered away East South-East We could have no Observation this day neither because of Cloudy weather and they found by their dead Reckoning that we had made nine Leagues most of this way we had made since six a Clock in the morning for the eighteen hours before we had advanced but little or nothing at all A quarter after twelve the Wind turned South-West and we Steered our Course North-East but we were presently after becalmed
it than indeed they were Next morning we saw two Snakes upon the water Snakes upon the water are a sign of the nearness of Land. which occasioned great joy in the Ship for when they begin to see Snakes it is an infallible mark that they are not above forty Leagues off the Land of the Indies wherefore one may boldly come to sounding and indeed when at nine a Clock we heaved out the Lead we found fifty three Fathom water At noon by the Gunners Observation we were in one and twenty degrees thirty three minutes Latitude having in the last twenty four hours run five and twenty Leagues and a half we sounded a second time and had forty Fathom water whereupon we stood away South-East and by East that we might not run upon the Land of Diu where we had nothing to do and which is the Rendez-vous of the Malabar Corsairs and the Zinganes Half an hour after five in the evening we had but thirty five Fathom water and then we saw upon the water a great many little yellow Snakes a Foot long and as big as ones little Finger which made us know that we were near the Coast of Diu along which the Snakes are small for from thence forwards along the Coast of the Indies they are big That we might not then run within Land we stood away South-East About six a Clock we began to see some Excrements of the Sea which the Provensals call Carnasse the Italians Potta-Marina Carnasse or Potta Marina or Alfareca and the Portuguese call Alfareca I fancy that I have seen the figure and description of them by the name of Potta-Marina in a Treatise of Fabius Columna de Conchis which is at the end of the Treatise de Plantis of the same Author Our Ships Company told me it was like a frothy Flesh which the Fish eat and when it touches a Mans Flesh it sticks to it like Glew and puts him to hot stinging pains This puts me in mind that heretofore being at Calais a Gentleman of Honour told me that in the Sea of Calais there were some certain Sea-Excrements which stung and occasioned such burning pains when they touched a Mans Flesh that he had seen some Soldiers of the Garison run about the streets roaring and crying out like Mad-men through the violence of the pain they suffered by these Excrements which had touched their Flesh when they washed themselves in the Harbour and that this pain lasted two or three days In all probability those Excrements he spoke to me of were Carnasses If the Translatour be not mistaken the English call that Excrement a Carvel We saw so great a quantity of them all the evening that sometimes they made the Sea look all white and they lay as it were in veins so that to judge by the sight one would have taken them for great Banks of Sand but of a very white Sand or else for Rivers of Milk and certainly a Man that had never seen them nor been told what they were would think himself to be upon a Bank of Sand. No sooner was one of these veins past but we saw another a coming and each of them was above five hundred paces in length and proportionably broad Those that floated along the Ships side lookt like so many very clear Stars and at first I took them for sparks that are many times seen to flash out of the Sea when the water is very rough but having observed that they lost not their splendour as commonly that sort of sparks does which disappear as soon as they are seen I took notice of them to the Captain and the rest that were upon the Quarter Deck and asked them what they were they all told me they were Carnasses and they knew by that that we were near Land for these Excrements are not commonly seen but very near the shoar and are the fore runners of a Gale of Wind but when the Captain considered them and saw them coming in so great a quantity he acknowledged to me that he had never seen so many of them together and about eight a Clock the Lead being heaved out we found thirty Fathom water After eight a Clock we saw no more Carnasses A little after eight the Wind blew very fresh which made us take in the Main-Top-Sail At the same time we perceived to the Windward at East north-North-East a great light which all presently knew to be some great fire a shoar and we saw many such until midnight which confirmed us in the opinion that we were very near the Land of Diu. Wherefore we Steered on our Course South-East bearing rather to South than East About eleven a Clock the Wind slackened much Thursday the last day of the year one thousand six hundred sixty five about three a Clock in the morning the Wind turned North-East and we still Steered our Course South-East About break of day we made to the Leeward South of us a great Ship with all Sails abroad even their Top-Gallant-Sails though it was no good weather for carrying such Sails which made us conclude it was the Masulipatan which put out from Congo the same day that we did in the morning and which we thought had been at Comoron In all appearance he took our Ship for an English man for the Captain of the Masulipatan was a Hollander and therefore he had put out his Top-Gallant-Sails to run for it and the truth is he made so good way that in an hours time he was got almost out of fight Half an hour after six we cast out the Lead and had thirty five Fathom water According to the Gunners Observation at noon we were in twenty degrees forty minutes Latitude and in four and twenty hours time we had made seven and twenty Leagues and a half We were then becalmed and half an hour after five we had thirty three Fathom water At eight of the Clock at night we had a small Gale from North-East which made us Steer away East South-East At midnight having sounded we found still thirty three Fathom water Friday New-years-day one thousand six hundred sixty and six at five a Clock in the morning we had twenty six Fathom water At break of day we made to the Leeward South South-East of us the same Ship which we saw the day before but somewhat nearer to us We also made Land which was known to be the Point of main Land Point of Diu. The Isle of Diu belonging to the Portuguese Alambater called the Point of Diu and immediately after we made the Island which bears the same name and is near the main Land of the Country of Cambaya This Island was anciently called I think Alambater lyes in the Latitude of twenty degrees forty minutes or one and twenty degrees the Portuguese are masters of it and have a Town there of the same name with the Island and a Fort which is thought to be impregnable being surrounded with two Ditches filled with the
Wind in Poop and a fresh Gale from South for those that go upon a Wind against Tide are driven back instead of going forward the Tides running very strong on that Coast and South Winds being rare Half an hour after eight at night we weighed Anchor and stood away North and by West the Wind being then North-East and by East Wednesday the sixth of January at two a Clock in the morning we came to an Anchor in seventeen Fathom water Having weighed again about nine a Clock we steered North North-East the Wind was then at East a little to the Southward but so weak that at ten a Clock it left us becalmed About three a Clock we had a Gale from West when we least expected it for it seldom blows on that Coast that was the reason we came not to an Anchor though it began to Ebb and we stood away North and by East Half an hour after five we had twenty Fathom water and at six a Clock we were becalmed Half an hour after eight we had the Wind at East North-East which made us steer away South-East but at ten a Clock the Tide of Flood beginning to make it behoved us to tack and stand away North and by East Thursday the seventh of January about four a Clock in the morning we came to an Anchor in ninteen Fathom water About nine a Clock a small Gale blowing from South-East we weighed though it was above an hour and a half to Flood and bore away East North-East but seeing the Wind did not last about half an hour after eleven we came to an Anchor again in seven Fathom water though it was Flood then but it did us no kindness because it carried us to Surrat and we were bound for Daman being so near it that some of the Ship discovered the Steeple of a Church in the Town Half an hour after one of the Clock we had a small Gale from North-East which made us presently weigh and bear away South-East and sounding every quarter of an hour we found first fifteen Fathom water then twelve after that ten and at least nine About four a Clock we steered away East South-East about five a Clock South South-East a little after we were becalmed and having cast out the Lead found eight Fathom water About six a Clock we turned the Ships Head East and by South half an hour after north-North-East and by East About seven a Clock we came to an Anchor in eight Fathom water and about a good League and a half from Land because there was no Wind and the Tide of Ebb cast us toward the South-West Next morning about nine a Clock we weighed though it was still low water only we had a Gale from South-East we steered East north-North-East that we might stand in to shoar and about half an hour after eleven we came to an Anchor a League off of the Town of Daman and Westward from it I did not go a shoar because the Captain told me that I could not stay there above an hour or two having ordered the Boat that carried a shoar Master Manuel Mendez to return immediately and being resolved so soon as he had unloaded his Goods to weigh Anchor and wait for no body I did not think going a shoar to be worth the pains of running the risk of being taken for there are Malabar Barks commonly upon the scout especially in the evening skulking behind some Points of Land and when they perceive any small Vessel make up to it and carry it away Daman is a Town belonging to the Portuguese who have made it very strong Daman Latitude of Daman and have a good Fort in it It lyes in the twentieth degree of North Latititude and is fifteen Leagues distant from Bassaim and forty from Diu. They have most delicate Bread at Daman and drink only water of a Tanquier but which they say is very good From Daman to Cape Comorin Cape Comorin a range of very high Hills runs along the Coast This Town has no other Harbour but a little Canal or Cut which is full at high water and remains dry when the Tide is out small Barks come into it but Ships ride out in the Road. Ours stayed there a little more than four and twenty hours for the Boats that were to come for the Goods of Master Manuel Mendez came not a Board of us till the next day which was Saturday it was noon before we had loaded them and it behoved us afterwards to stay till two a Clock for our Boat though we had fired a Gun in the morning as a signal for them to put off but the Sea-men being got drunk made never the more haste for that we did not weigh Anchor then till three a Clock in the afternoon and we stood away North the Wind being then at West North-West About seven a Clock we were forced to come to an Anchor because the Wind was down and the Tide of Ebb made us lose way About nine a Clock with a little Gale at East we weighed again and bore away North in five Fathom and a half water and for above an hour we had no more Next day being Sunday the tenth of January by break of day we were got within a Cannon shot of Land which was to our Starboard and to the Larboard we saw two great Ships at Anchor they were presently known to be Ships belonging to the King of Mogul which Trade to Moca Ships of the King of Mogul whither they carry at every Voyage above two Millions We saw many other Ships on Head some at Anchor and others under Sail amongst these there were two Dutch Ships who failed not to send off their Boats to know who we were taking us to have been an English Ship. At length half an hour after ten we came to an Anchor at the Bar of Surrat The Bar of Surrat in six Fathom and a half water and presently a Custom-House Waiter came on Board of us being there accidentally for commonly they come not till after the Captain be gone a shoar Next day Monday the eleventh of January several of the Custom-House Boats came on Board of us to take in all the Passengers and their Goods we went down into them and they put off from the Ship about half an hour after two at first we made towards shoar apace the Wind being good but it being low water an hour after we stuck a ground and it behoved us to stay for Flood to get off again which was not till half an hour after three when we weighed again the Anchor which we had dropped We went on then with the Tide for the Wind was contrary and within half an hour after ran a ground again where we were another half hour before we could get off having afterwards advanced a little farther we saw a small Isle to our Right Hand and from thence the Channel grows narrower and narrower About eight a Clock we passed by the
Provinces of Judostan to those which his Father left him died in the Year 1604. Gehanguir Selim his Eldest Son was immediately Crowned by the Name of Gehan-guir and having Reigned Three and twenty Years and enlarged the Conquest he died in the Year 1627. After his death his Grandson Boulloquoy Reigned about Three Months Bulloquoy but he was strangled by Order of Sultan Corom a Rebel Son of Gehanguir Corom who having made sure of the Empire Chagehan took to himself the Name of Chagehan in the Year 1628. Seeing Blood and Rebellion raised him to the Throne he had experience of the same disorders amongst his Children which he had caused to his Father for through their jealousie his Empire was almost always in confusion Auranzeb and at length fell into the hands of Auranzeb the Third of his Four Sons who Reigns at present In mounting to the Throne this Prince imitated the crimes of his Father for he put to death Dara his Eldest Brother imprisoned Mourad his other Brother who confided in him and clapt up his own Father in Prison The death of Chagehan who died Five or Six Years after about the end of the Year 1666. The Great Mogul is certainly a most Powerful Prince The Power of the Mogul as we may Judge by his Riches Armies and the number of People that are within the extent of his Empire His yearly Revenues they say mount to above Three hundred and thirty French Millions The Canon Name The Registred Forces of the Mogul which is a Register containing a List of his Forces makes it appear that that Prince entertains Three hundred thousand Horse of which betwixt Thirty and Thirty five thousand with ten thousand Foot are for a Guard to his Person both in time of Peace and War and are commonly quartered in those places where he keeps his Court. This Empire extends from East to West above Four hundred Leagues and from North to South above Five hundred and that vast space excepting some Mountains and Deserts is so full of Towns Castles Burroughs and Villages and by consequence of Inhabitants who till the Land or emprove it by manufactures and the commerce which that Country affords that it is easie to judge of the Power of the King who is Master thereof The true bounds of his Empire are to the West The bounds of Mogulistan Macran or Sinde and Candahar to the East it reaches beyond the Ganges to the South it is limited by Decan the great Sea and the Gulf of Bengale and to the North by the Tartars The exageration of many Travellers concerning the extent of the Countries of this great King of the Indies was the cause that I made it my business to consult the most knowing Men that I might learn what they thought of the greatness of it and what now I write is their Opinion They affirm not as some do that when the Mogul makes War The true Forces of the Mogul he sends Three hundred thousand Horse into the field They say indeed that he pays so many but seeing the chief Revenues or to say better the rewards of the Great Men consist particularly in the pay which they have for more or fewer Troopers it is certain that they hardly keep on Foot one half of the Men they are appointed to have so that when the Great Mogul marches upon any expedition of War his Army exceeds not an Hundred and fifty thousand Horse with very few Foot though he have betwixt Three and four hundred thousand Mouths in the Army Besides I was informed by any Indian who pretends to know the Map of his Country that they reckon no more but twenty Provinces within the extent of Mogulistan in the Indies and that they who have reckoned more have not been well informed of their number since of one Province they have made two or three This Indian had a list of the Princes Revenues calculated for the twenty Provinces and I made no doubt of the truth of his System Twenty Provinces or Governments in Mogulistan but I had rather call them Governments and say that every Government contains several Provinces I shall observe the Revenues of the Governments in the discription I give of them and shall call each Government a Province that I may not vary from the memoires which I have and as I entered the Indies by the Province of Guzerat so I shall describe it before the others CHAP. IV. The Province of Guzerat Guzerat THe Province of Guzerat which was heretofore a Kingdom fell into the Possession of the Great Mogul Ecbar about the year 1565. He was called into it by a great Lord to whom the King of Guzerat Sultan Mamoet gave the general Government thereof when being near his death he trusted him with the tuition and regency of his only Son in the Year 1545 or 1546. during the Reign of Humayon the Father of Ecbar Government The ambition of that Governour who was envied by all the great Men of the Kingdom of Guzerat that were his declared Enemies and against whom he resolved to maintain himself at the cost of his own lawful Prince made him betake himself to the King Mogul under pretext of soliciting his protection for his Pupil named Mudafer who was already of Age but not yet of sufficient Authority to maintain his Guardian against the faction of the great Men whom he had provoked Mudafer King of Guzerat Ecbar seizes Guzerat Ecbar entered Guzerat with an Army and subdued all those who offered to make head against him and whom the Governour accused of being Enemies to his King But instead of being satisfied with one Town which with its Territories had been promised him he seized the whole Kingdom and made the King and Governour Prisoners That unfortunate Prince being never after able to recover it again not but that having made his escape he attempted once again to have reestablished himself but his efforts were in vain Mudafer kills himself for he was overcome and made Prisoner a second time so that despair at length made him destroy himself Guzerat a pleasant Province This is the pleasantest Province of Judostan though it be not the largest The Nardaba Tapty and many other Rivers that water it render it very fertile and the Fields of Guzerat look green in all the seasons of the Year because of the Corn and Rice that cover them and the various kinds of Trees which continually bear Fruit. The most considerable part of Guzerat is towards the Sea on which the Towns of Surrat and Cambaye stand The Ports of Surrat and Cambaye whose Ports are the best of all Mogulistan But seeing Amedabad is the Capital Town of the Province it is but reasonable we should treat of it before we speak of the rest Departure from Surrat to Amedabad The Boats on the Tapty incommodious February the First I parted from Surrat to go
Captain making use of the occasion failed not to tell the Merchants who waited for our Ship that she would not come this year which they believed to be true and went aboard with their mony on his Ship. All this proceeded from the fault of the Vikil that stayed behind at Bassora who detained the Ship in the Harbour a Fortnight longer than he should have done to get on Board some Goods which payed not above an hundred Piastres Freight and in the mean while he lost the Freight of a great deal of Goods and Mony and of many Passengers that were at Carek Congo and Comoron who embarked in the Ships which touched at these Ports before us When we had put a shoar all the Goods and the Man who was to take care of them we weighed Anchor three quarters of an hour after seven making all the Sail we could and Steering away South South-East with a very easie Wind about ten a Clock we were becalmed till midnight when there blew a little Gale at East but as easie as the former and with it we bore away South Next day about two or three a Clock in the morning we Sailed by the Isle of Rischer which was to our Larboard This Island is very near the main Land and makes a little Port which is called Bender-Rischer a days Journy from Bender-Regh and there is a Fort on it which belonged formerly to the Portuguese At break of day we made two Ships on Head of us one of which had put out from Carek five days before us Half an hour after seven we were off of the Isle of Coucher Coucher that was to our Larboard and is a pretty big Island At eight a Clock we got a Head of one of the Ships that had been before us the other which was at some distance put us into some apprehension for a few hours time for by his manner of working he gave us cause to think that he had a mind to be up with us and we were affraid he might be a Corsair but at length he Steered the same Course that we did About ten a Clock we were becalmed Three quarters after twelve the Wind being Southerly we Steered away East A quarter after two we Steered South-East Three quarters after three a Clock the Wind chopping about to South-West we stood away South South-East And thus the Wind being but very easie did nothing but chop and change until the evening that we were becalmed Wednesday the eighteenth of November towards day having an easie Gale from East South-East we Steered our Course South South-West about half an hour after nine it blowing hard from South we bore away West South-West About three quarters of an hour after ten the Wind turned South South-East and we Steered East Half an hour after noon the Wind slackened much and about five a Clock in the evening we were becalmed About half an hour after nine we made a Sail to the Windward of us and another on Head but a great way before us we cast the Lead and found seventeen Fathom water At ten a Clock at night the Wind turned East South-East and blew pretty hard and we Steered away South South-West finding only thirteen Fathom water when we heaved the Lead After midnight we past Cape Verdestan which was to our Larboard This is a very dangerous Cape and one night several Portuguese Ships being Land-lockt there when they thought themselves far enough off of it were cast away We Sailed within three or four Leagues of it and when it was day saw it a Stern of us About half an hour after nine the Wind turned South South-East and we Steered East About noon we saw several Taranquins Half an hour after one the Wind turned South South-West and we bore away South-East We were then off and on Cape Naban to our Larboard Cape Naban and made it but very dimly but coming up more and more towards it we made it very plain and saw along the Sea-side Rocky Hills which seemed to be very steep and at the foot of them a great many Palm-Trees We continued our Course off and on with these Rocks till five a Clock that we saw the end of them at least in this place they run far up into the Land and leave a very level Coast in this low Country is the Village called Naban which gives the name to the Cape Here we cast the Lead and found only seven Fathom water there is but little water all along that Coast and therefore we presently tackt and stood off to the West about ten a Clock at night the Wind turned North-East and we Steered away South South-East Friday the twentieth of November by break of day we made the three Ships that put out the same day with us from Bassora two of which were at a pretty good distance to the Starboard and the other very near a Head of us it was this last which some days before we had taken for a Corsair we made also to our Larboard the Land of Persia but at a great distance A quarter after nine a Clock in the morning having a very easie Gale from North North-West we put out our Main and Fore-Top-Galant-Sail and kept on our Course South South-East in a short time we left all the other Ships a Stern About noon the Wind blew much fresher and about three a Clock we stood away East South-East about five a Clock we took in our Top-Galant-Sails the Mizan and Mizan-Top-Sails because it would have been dangerous to have made so much way in the night-time that was now coming on for we might have run within Land considering that the Wind freshened more and more and we bore away South South-East that we might keep without the Isle of Lara If it had been day we would have Steered our Course betwixt the main Land and that Island but we durst not venture it in the night-time being safer to leave it to the Larboard we made account to have Sailed by that Island about midnight but we saw it not though we had all along light enough to discern a little of the main Land near to which it lyes We concluded then that we had past that Isle of Lara in the night-time but next day we found that we were out in our reckoning Nevertheless seeing we did not find out our mistake till after noon about six a Clock in the morning we Steered away East bearing in towards the Land for fear we might be cast too far to the Leeward of Congo About half an hour after six our Long-Boat that was fastened to the Stern filled full of water and sunk under the surface of the Sea we presently furled all Sails but the Sprit-Sail and three Seamen swam to the Boat to fasten another Rope to it which they held by the end then they went into it and we halled it to the Leeward side of the Ship and took out a little Anchor that was in her this being done our
Wind did nothing but chop and change from North-East to South-East and all that while we kept on our Course as much as the little Wind that then blew would allow us At one of the Clock we were got very near Lareca standing North and by East and therefore we tacked about and bore away South and by East the Wind being then East and by North. About two a Clock we stood South-East and by South About seven a Clock it blew hard from North-East and we Steered our Course East South-East About eight a Clock it blew a stiff Gale from South South-East and we Steered East .. Three quarters after eight it got into South and we bore away East South-East a quarter of an hour after we had some Rain In this manner every hour or every half hour the Wind shifted about and with every change we had a scud of Wind and Rain which obliged us to furl all our Sails but the Fore-Sail but so soon as the flurry was over the Wind was but very easie Thus all night long we had flurries and changes of Wind. Sunday the thirteenth of December at six a Clock in the morning the Wind turned East South-East and we stood away South We had to the Starboard the Land of Arabia and the four Isles of Selame of which the biggest bore West and by South of us on our Larboard we had the Land of Persia part whereof called Marsan bore South-East of us and we made particularly one Hill of that Land shaped like a Sugar-Loaf About seven a Clock the Wind shifted into South-East but it was an easie Gale and we Steered East North-East About nine a Clock we had the biggest of the Isles of Selame to the South-West and by West of us and the Port of Lima to the South-West and by South Lima is a very good Port in Arabia the happy where several Ships may Winter secure from all Winds and there is good water there At noon the Wind turning South westood away East South-East At two a Clock it shifted about to South South-West and we Steered South-East Half an hour after three we tacked and bore away West At five a Clock the biggest of the Isles of Selame bore West South-West from us About seven a Clock we tacked and stood away South-East At midnight we tackt again and Steered West Monday morning at six of the Clock the Wind being at South-East we Steered our Course South South-West Half an hour after eleven we bore away East South-East because the Wind had chopt about to the South and at one a Clock being got South South-West we Steered South-East and at two of the Clock South South-East the Wind having veered about to South West Thus did we trip to and again in that Streight the Wind continually shifting and turning though it held always Southerly and seeming to play with us for it happened exactly that when we were towards the Coast of Arabia the South-West Wind that was good for us changed to South-East and when we were on the Coast of Persia the South-East that then was fair to bring us forward changed to South-West In the mean time every body was much surprised that the South Wind continued so long and an Armenian told me that in the space of eigthteen years that he had yearly made that Voyage he never knew it blow so long at a time In November December and January The East Wind commonly reigns in those quarters The proper season for Sailing to the Indies and therefore the proper Mouson for going from Persia to the Indies in a short time is in March April and the beginning of May. However we still advanced forwards a little because we had the Currents with us for from the end of July until January the Currents set from the Indies towards Ormus and from January till the month of August they set from Ormus towards the Indies About five a Clock at night being got very near a low point of Land in Persia Nataly called Nataly we cast the Lead and found twelve Fathom water and muddy ground immediately after having cast it out again we had but six Fathom water and a sandy ground which made us tack about and the rather because the Wind was South South-West we had then the biggest of the Isles of Selame to the West North-West of us Half an hour after six the Wind turnning South we stood away West South-West and in the night-time made two tacks more Tuesday the fifteenth of December about seven a Clock in the morning we were close in with the Land of Arabia and the Wind was then at South South-East and therefore we stood away East but about nine a Clock the Wind shifting to South-East we were obliged to tack and stand away South South-West About eleven a Clock the Wind came to South and we Steered North and by East that we might put into Lareca and Ormus and wait for a favourable Wind in one of those two Islands being weary of beating up and down in this manner and making no progress in our Voyage which only wore our Sails and besides we made account to take in water there for we were apprehensive it might fall short In the mean time this design was not without contradiction on the part of the Mate and Sea-men as well as of the Merchants who could not willingly resolve to lose that little way we had made however the Captain did as he intended and in the sequel they were all glad of it when about half an hour after three they perceived the Heavens over-cast with thick Clouds which shortly after broke out into bitter gusts of Wind and Rain Other Spouts with three Spouts more but at a distance from us Then did all applaud the Captains Orders every one being of opinion that if we had been surprised with that storm in the Streight where we were in the morning we should have been hard put to it and it even appeared visibly to us to be more violent in that part than any where else Nevertheless as it is usual with those kind of Men never to fear danger but when it is present no sooner did it begin to blow from South-West about five a Clock but the Merchants persuaded the Mate to pray the Captain to set Sail again and pursue our Course he presently condescended out of spight for he no ways approved the design nor indeed had he reason a fierce Wind still blowing with several Gusts and flurries however he ordered to Steer away South South-East About six a Clock at night the so much longed for North Wind began to blow but it was so high that we could carry no Sails but the Fore-Sail and Sprit-Sail and there went a rough Sea on Head that furiously beat against the Ship in the mean time we Steered away South and by East that we might not be Land lockt by the Cape of Mosandon which we had on Head. About seven a Clock the Wind
At two a Clock we had a breeze from North-West and we bore away South-East and by East About six a Clock the Wind slackened much About seven a Clock our Ships Head stood South-East Friday the five and twentieth of December at six a Clock in the morning it blew a West North-West Wind and we steered on our Course still South-East About seven a Clock the Sky was overcast with Clouds which brought Rain with them and we saw some more Spouts at a pretty good distance and a Weather-Gall this Weather-Gall was like a Segment of a Rain-Bow rising from the Horizon about three degrees or if you will it seemed to be three Foot high Sometimes they appear over a Ship and that is commonly a presage of a Tempest and the Portuguese call this Phenomenon an Oxes Eye About eight a Clock it blew a pretty fresh Gale from North but immediately it veered about to north-North-East and became very weak At noon we were by our Observations in three and twenty degrees two and fifty minutes Latitude and had made from noon to noon thirteen Leagues Then the Captain and Mate made account that we were eight or ten Leagues off of the Land of Sindy and about five and twenty Leagues from Jaquelte for my part by what I could make out by my Map we were twenty Leagues off Malan and to the Southward of Malan and forty Leagues from Sindy and near threescore Leagues from Jaquelte and this agreed with the Gunners Observation but he durst not say any thing for fear of quarelling with the Captain who thought every body ignorant in respect of himself and nevertheless it was found afterwards that he and the Mate were in the mistake About four a Clock the Wind turned East South-East and we Steered North-East About five a Clock we had a great shower of Rain from a thick Cloud over head which being past we had the Wind at South-East and bore away North-East Half an hour after six we had Rain again with Lightning but we were becalmed and turned the Ships Head North-East At seven a Clock the Wind turned South and by East and we bore away East and by South Half an hour after ten we were becalmed but about eleven a Clock had a great flurry which made much noise at first and this made us furl all our Sails but a great shower of Rain soon carried it off and the Sea being smooth we Steered away South-East and by South At midnight we cast the Lead but though they veered out sixty Fathom of Rope yet we had no ground which was like to have made the Captain mad for shame for he believed us to be very near Land and he fell into a Passion with the Mate saying that he had not left importuning him for two days to heave out the Lead We were all night becalmed though at times we had several showers of Rain Saturday the six and twentieth of December about seven a Clock there blew a gentle Gale from East north-North-East which made us Steer away South-East and by South About half an hour after nine the Wind being all Easterly we stood away South-East then master Manuel Mendez who perceived very well that no body knew where we were advised the Captain to stand in to Land and gratifie the Pilot which highly offended him saying that since they took him for an ignorant blockhead for the future he would only sleep and take his rest and let the Ship go which way she pleased and that to content us he would put back and make the Land at Jasques however this went no farther About ten a Clock the Wind turned East North-East and we stood away South-East At noon the Gunner found by his Observations that we were in twenty three degrees forty five minutes the Captain in twenty three degrees five minutes and the Mate in twenty three fifteen minutes and in four and twenty hours we had only made about six Leagues That day we began to see of those Birds which the Portuguese call Rabo de Junco Rabo de Junco a Fowl. and are a kind of Sea-Mews only they are bigger and have the Tail all of a piece and pointed like a Rush wherefore they are called Rush Tails and they keep upon the water as the Sea-Mews do At one a Clock the Wind slackened and chopped into the East and we Steered South and by East About four a Clock we tackt and stood away North. About half an hour after five the Wind having veered about to East North-East we Steered South-East About half an hour after seven the Wind turned North-East and by East About ten a Clock it was full North-East and we bore away East South-East Sunday morning the seven and twentieth of December at five of the Clock the Wind turned East and by North and we Steered our Course South-East and by South About nine a Clock we bore away South-East because the Wind was at East North-East and blew pretty fresh Our Officers took an Observation at noon and were again of different opinions the Captain had two and twenty degrees fifty two minutes the Mate twenty three and the Gunner three and twenty degrees and two minutes and in twenty four hours we had made fourteen Leagues In the Evening a flying Fish leaped into our Ship. The Wind freshened so much in the night-time that we were obliged to furl our Top Sails Monday noon the twenty eighth of December the Captain found out by his Observation that we were in the Latitude of twenty two degrees eight minutes and the Gunner in twenty two degrees eighteen minutes in four and twenty hours we had made fourteen Leagues That day we saw a great many Weeds or Herbs floating upon the water which the Portuguese call Sargaso Herb Sargaso and that is one sign of being near the Land of the Indies many such are also to be seen towards Brasil The stalk of that Herb is small blackish and as supple as a hair the Leaves of it are long and narrow and a little jagged besides the Leaves it hath a great many small clear and transparent Berries as soft as little Goosberries that stick to the stalk This Herb grows upon the Rocks in the Sea and being torn off by storm it floats upon the water till it be cast a shoar About two in the afternoon the Wind slackened much and therefore we spread our Main-Top and Fore-Top-Sails the Sea which had been very high before growing calm and smooth within a few hours Tuesday morning the nine and twentieth of December about seven a Clock the Wind was at North North-East and we Steered our Course East At noon the Gunner found that we were in one and twenty degrees forty four minutes Latitude and that in the space of twenty four hours we had made thirteen Leagues and a half at midnight we Steered East and by South that we might keep off of the Banks that are towards Diu our Company thinking themselves nearer to
water of the Sea and the first big enough to admit of Ships being besides defended by several stone-Bastions built very high upon a Rock which are mounted with many great Guns that play on all Hands so that it will be no easie task to take it unless being unprovided of Victuals an Enemy might attempt to starve it it hath no water but Cistern-water yet every House has its Cistern There is a good Port in Diu and heretofore all the Trade of the Indies was managed there and at Chaoul Chaoul belonging to the Portuguese which is another place belonging to the Portuguese but the Dutch so ordered matters that it was wholly removed to Surrat where it is at present About seven a Clock we found by observing the Land that we had made eight Leagues since the day before at noon for you must know that so soon as they make Land they heave the Log no more to know the Ships running because it is well enough known by the Land. At eight a Clock the Wind turned East and by North and we stood away South-East and by South About eleven a Clock it turned East South-East and we Steered away South That day we took no Observation because the Land interposed betwixt us and the Horizon nevertheless we lost sight of it immediately after noon and about six a Clock we tackt about and stood North-East and by East About seven a Clock we tackt again About eight a Clock we were becalmed Half an hour after nine we tackt again a third time and at ten a Clock having cast the Lead we had thirty eight Fathom water About eleven a Clock we had a good Wind at North North-East which made us bear away East Next day the second of January about five a Clock in the morning the Wind having veered about to North-East we Steered our Course East South East At break of day having furled our Main-Top-Sail we put out our Colours and waited for the Masulipatan which was close up with us he presently also shewed his Colours and within a quarter of an hour after sheered a long on head of us we hailed one another but could have no discourse together because he had stood too much on head and in a trice fell off from us This was the Hollanders fault for he was vexed that Master Manuel Mendez would not Sail with him though he had invited him and besides he was angry that we should have come up with him which was the reason he would have no Conversation with us though ever since the day before he might many times have born up near enough to have Discoursed with us when we were upon our tacks Half an hour after six we sounded and found six and twenty Fathom water About seven a Clock the Wind came in to East North-East and we Steered South-East About eight a Clock it blew much fresher from East and by North which convincing us that we were off of the mouth of the Bay of Cambaya The mouth of the Bay of Cambaya we steered away South-East and by South and about nine a Clock the Wind turning due East we stood away South South East We could have no Observation that day because of the motion of the Ship and must rest satisfied to know that from noon to noon we had made fifteen Leagues About five a Clock the Captain of the Musulipatan being in a better humour bore up with us and after the Selam and three or four Cups drunk to our good Voyage he asked us if we would go in Consort and we agreed to it About six a Clock the Wind ceased and left us becalmed About half an hour after ten we had a small Gale from North North East which made us bear away East At midnight the Wind veering in to North-East we steered away East South-East Then we heaved the Lead and found forty Fathom water Sunday morning the third of January we perceived several peices of Wood floating upon the water and some Snakes bigger than ones Thumb four or five Foot long and of a blackish colour and about noon we saw the Sea water look whitish these were so many signs that we were near the Indian shoar At noon the Gunner took an Observation but how right I cannot tell because of the Ships great Travel and he found that we were in the Latitude of nineteen degrees fifty four minutes but we could not tell how much we had run for in twenty four hours time we had not heaved the Log knowing that we were near Land we only cast the Lead and found thirty three Fathom water having cast it out again at three a Clock in the afternoon we had no more but thirty Fathom About five a Clock the Wind turned East North East and we stood away South-East Half an hour after five we had again thirty three Fathom water About eight a Clock the Wind was got into East and by North and we steered South-East and by South and had still thirty three Fathom water About half an hour after ten the Wind turned North and by East a brisk Gale and we bore away East and by North. At midnight we had twenty five Fathom water Monday the fourth of January half an hour after five in the morning we had the Wind at North-East and steered away East South-East but this hot Wind blew so fresh that we were obliged to furl our Main-Top-Sail and then we had twenty five Fathom water A North-East Wind blows commonly on that Coast all the Moon of December and the beginning of the Moon of January and after it comes the North-West Wind. About eleven a Clock the Wind flackning a little we unfurled our Main-Top-Sail again At noon the Gunner found that we were in the Latitude of nineteen degrees twenty four minutes and having cast the Lead we had two and twenty Fathom water and at five a Clock the same Half an hour after five the Wind turning North North-East we steered away East At nine a Clock we had only twenty Fathom water and at midnight but eighteen Tuesday the fifth of January after midnight the Wind was at north-North-East and by East but a very easie Gale and we bore away South-East and by East At five a Clock in the morning we had but four Fathom water At break of day we made the Land of Bassaim on Head which was very near us and we had made it the day before if it had not been hazy upon the Land. Bassaim Bassaim is a Town held by the Portuguese lying about the nineteenth degree and a half of North Latitude There are very high Mountains at this place At six a Clock we tacked and stood away North and by East At two a Clock in the afternoon we came to an Anchor in fourteen Fathom water because it began to Ebb and it is the custom for Ships that put into the Bay of Cambaya when they are near shoar to Tide it only up unless they have the
served in his Conquests by some Mahometan Captains whom he much esteemed for their Valour he contracted with his Successour that he should leave them in the Governments of the Countries where he had placed them The truth is The new King not only confirmed them therein but that he might please Chahalem the more augmented their Governments and honoured them with a particular confidence These Captains maintained splendidly the power of their Master as long as Chahalem lived but after his death which happened in the Year One thousand five hundred and fifty his Successour having been defeated by the Mogul Humayon who returned into the Indies with the assistance that Chah-Tahmas King of Persia gave him at the Sollicitation of his Sister these Traitors instead of owning their Benefactor as they ought to have done by their Loyalty combined against him and killed all his faithful Friends A great Treason they seized his own person and having shut him up in the Castle of Beder kept him there till he died under the strickt Guard of one of the Conspirators they next invaded his Countreys divided amongst themselves his Provinces and formed them into Kingdoms The three chief Conspirators were Nizam-Cha Coth-Cha and Adil-Cha these three Usurpers made themselves Kings The Usurpers of Decan The settlement of three Kingdoms and established the Kingdoms of Viziapour Bisnagar or Carnates and Golconda Viziapour fell to the share of Nizam-Cha who is said to have been an Indian and of the Royal Blood Bisnagar to Adil-Cha and Golconda to Cobt-cha and the Successours of these several Kings have since continued to take the name of their Founders As many other Captains were concerned in the Conspiracy so were other Principalities erected in Decan but most of them fell under the power of the first three or of their Successours These three Princes possessed their Kingdoms without trouble so long as they lived together in good Intelligence and they defeated the Army of the Mogul in a famous Battel but they fell a clashing amongst themselves about the end of their Reigns and their Children succeeded to their Misunderstandings as well as to their Dominions to which the cunning of the Moguls did not a little contribute These have by degrees taken from them the Provinces of Balagate Telenga and Baglana or at least the greatest part of them Auran-Zeb and Auran-Zeb seized of a great many good Towns in Viziapour when he was no more as yet but the Governour of a Province which would not have happened if the King of Bisnagar had assisted his Neighbour as he ought to have done The want of assistance on that Kings part so exasperated the King of Viziapour that he no sooner made peace with the Mogul in the year One thousand six hundred and fifty but he made a League with the King of Golconda against the King of Bisnagar and entered into a War with him they handled him so very roughly that at length they stript him of his Dominions The King of Golconda seized those of the coast of Coromandel which lay conveniently for him and the King of Viziapour having taken what lay next to him pursued his Conquest as far as the Cape of Negapatan so that Adil-Cha was left without a Kingdom and constrained to flie into the Mountains where he still lives deprived of his Territories His chief Town was Velour Velour five days Journey from St. Thomas but that Town at present belongs to the King of Viziapour as well as Gengi and several others of Carnates Gengi Carnates Bisnagar This Kingdom of Carnates or Bisnagar which was formerly called Narsingue began three days Journey from Golconda towards the South it had many Towns and the Provinces thereof crossed from the coast of Coromandel to the coast of Malabar reaching a great way towards the Cape of Comory it had Viziapour and the Sea of Cambaye to the West and the Sea of Bengala to the East what of it belongs to the King of Viziapour is at present governed by an Enuch of Threescore and ten years of Age Raja Couli called Raja-Couli who conquered it with extraordinary expedition That Raja to whom the King gave the surname of Niecnam-Can which is as much as to say Lord of good renown is the richest Subject of the Indies Whil'st I was in Carnate the Kings of Viziapour and Golconda attacked a certain Raja who had a Fort whither he retreated betwixt the two Kingdoms there he committed an infinite number of Robberies and in the last War that the Great Mogul made in Viziapour that Raja set on by the Mogul made considerable incursions into the Countreys of the two Kings which made them force him to the utmost extremity so that they took his Fort made him Prisoner and seized all his Riches Viziapour The Kingdom of Viziapour is bounded to the East by Carnates and the Mountain of Balagate to the West by the Lands of the Portuguese to the North by Guzerat and the Province of Balagate and to the South by the Countrey of the Naique of Madura whose Territories reach to the Cape Comory This Naique is tributary to the King of Viziapour as well as the Naique of Tanjahor to whom belonged the Towns of Negapatan Trangabar and some others towards the coast of Coromandel when the King of Viziapour took them Negapatan fell since into the hands of the Portuguese but the Dutch took it from them and are at present Masters of it The Danes have also seized a place where they have built a Fort towards Trangabar which is distant from St. Thomas five days Journey of a Foot-post which they call Patamar The Pagod of Trapety As to the famous Pagod of Trapety which is not far from Cape Comory it depends on the Naique of Madura it consists of a great Temple and of many little Pagods about it and there are so many Lodgings for the Bramens and the Servants of the Temple that it looks like a Town There is a great deal of Riches in that Pagod The King of Viziapour The King of Viziapour is the most potent Prince of all those of Decan and therefore he is often called King of Decan His chief City is Viziapour which hath given the name to the Kingdom and he hath many other considerable Towns in his Provinces with three or four Ports to wit Carapatan Dabul Raja-pour and Vingourla but I am informed that Raja Sivagy hath seized some of them not long since The Town of Viziapour The Town of Viziapour is above four or five Leagues in circumference it is fortified with a double Wall with many great Guns mounted and a flat bottomed Ditch The Kings Palace is in the middle of the Town and is likewise encompassed with a Ditch full of water wherein there are some Crocodiles This Town hath several large Suburbs full of Goldsmiths and Jewellers Shops yet after all there is but little Trade and not many things remarkable in it
health they attribute this Virtue also to the Benediction of St. Paul and several Barks are yearly loaded with it to be transported into other places of Christendom Amongst the Rocks of this Island they find those Stones that look like a Serpents Eye The Stone of the Serpent's Eye which some carry upon their fingers set in Rings because of the virtue that they are thought to have against poyson This Island is very populous and when in the Year 1590 a Calculation was made of the number of the Inhabitants by Command of the Count of Alvadelista Vice-Roy of Naples that he might know what quantity of Corn was necessary for them they found in the Bourg the Old Town the Town of Valetta the Isle of St. Michael and in seven Parishes which contain above thirty six Villages seven and twenty Thousand Men not reckoning the Knights of the Order and their Servants The Maltese are of a brown complexion and are much of the nature of the Sicilians at least in point of Revenge The Women are beautiful and pretty familiar in the streets they cover their heads with a Mantle that reaches down to the ground but though they hide their own face yet they see every body without being known The Native Language of the Isle of Malta is Arabick but the Italian is very common there especially in the Town The Isle of Malta hath several Ports and Creeks well defended by Forts built upon them Marsamouchet a great Sea-Port in Malta but amongst others there are two great Havens open to the East North East one of which is called Marsamouchet and the other is the great Port these two Ports are separated by a tongue of pretty high Land on the point whereof the Castle of St. Erme was built and since adjoyning to it the City Valetta The Port of Marsamouchet is for Ships to perform their quarantine in before they have access to the Town and for such as by reason of foul weather cannot get into the great Port as also for Casairs who coming only for a short stay put not in into the great Port because it is not easie to get out again There is a little Island in this Port and in it the Lazaretto where they who are to perform their quarantine lodge The great Port contains several Havens within it and is secured by two Rocks Many Ports in Malta one on each side of the Entry on that which is on the right-hand the Castle of St. Erme is built in foul weather it is very dangerous to come near it and special care must be had both in coming and going out of it having pass'd these Rocks you see to the left-hand a Haven where the Vessels that come from the Levant and are not to stay at Malta put into that they may be separated from the rest advancing a little further you pass betwixt the Town of Valetta which is to the right-hand and the Castle of St. Angelo to the left Castle of St. Angelo in Malta standing upon the point of a tongue of Land along which lies the Bourg at the back of the said Castle after that you find another Haven to the left-hand which is very good and safe and is betwixt the Bourg and the Isle of Sangle Isle of Sangle which is a tongue of Land inhabited almost like to that of the Bourg to which it is parallel these two tongues reaching from East to West like two fingers of a hand The Galleys of the Order are laid up in this Haven and all the Vessels that are to make any stay at Malta either to load careen or refit put in there it being shut with an Iron Chain There is a little Haven at the bottom of this Port staked in where in the Evening all the small Barks are shut up lest Slaves might make their Escape in the Night-time Beyond the Island there is Water further up but it is of no depth from the entry of the great Port to the extremity or rather bottom of it it is at least two miles CHAP. VI. Of the Castles St. Angelo and St. Erme AS soon as the King of Spain had given the Island of Malta to the Knights of St. John Philip de Villiers l' Isle-Adam Castles St. Angelo St. Erme The Great Master Villiers who at that time was Great Master of the Order came and took possession of it and lodged in the Castle of St. Angelo as the rest of the Order did in the Bourg But Sultan Soliman not satisfied with the Isle of Rhodes out of which he had driven that illustrious Order having a design utterly to extirpate those men who though but few in number had put him to so much trouble and from whom he was still apprehensive of more mischief sent in the year 1565 a powerful Army to take the Isle of Malta Soliman sent and Besieged Malta La Vallet Great Master Mount Pelegrino The Siege of Malta It arrived there in the month of July Friar John of Valetta being then great Master and landed towards Mount Pelegrino The Turks presently attacked the Castle St. Erme which wholly defends the Entries into the great Port and Marsamouchet they raised their Batteries in the place where the Town of Valetta stands which was not then begun to be built and battered that Castle so furiously that having killed all that defended it they made themselves Masters of the same Then they turned against the Bourg and the Isle De la Sangle The Country is defended by the Castle St. Angelo which stands at the end of it on the side of the Port upon a very high Rock and difficult to climb up so that it is almost inaccessible The Isle De la Sangle is defended by a Bastion on the point of it They gave several Assaults to both these places where they landed many thousand Men but all in vain for they were still repulsed with great loss In the mean time though the Castle St. Angelo did so continually annoy them that they durst not shew themselvs yet they battered the Isle so furiously that they ruined the Works and resolved to make a general assault because being Master of that Isle they could break the Chain that secured the Port The Port of Malta secured by a Chain which was stretched from the Castle St. Angelo to the Spur of the said Isle The Great Master having notice of their resolution caused Port-holes to be made in the Castle St. Angelo level with the water without opening them on the outside yet so contrived and made that a knock of a Hammer might give them an opening wide enough for his design He there caused Guns to be planted with all expedition When it was day the Turks sent off a great many Boats manned with Soldiers to give the assault to the Spur of the Isle and at the same time the Canon of the Castle St. Angelo appearing level with the water fired with so good success that
though in the Woods and Hills they have good Venison and wild Fowl as Hares Coneys Partridges and the like but they have neither Huntsmen nor Fowling-pieces Their Sea affords no Fish and is as to that worse than the Sea of Genoa They have neither Physician nor Chyrurgeon but when they fall sick betake themselves to the Mercy of God. This Isle belonged heretofore to the Family of the Sanuti Family of Sanuti who had it in Dowry from the Family of Zen of which were the Dukes of Naxia in those times It was into this Island that Themistocles was sent from Athens to raise money who having entered into conference with those of the Island told them Gentlemen of Andra's I bring you two Gods the One of Perswasion and the Other of Force chuse you which of the two you please To which they answered And we will present you with two Goddesses the One Poverty and the Other Impossibility take which of the two you please Which was the cause that the Athenians besieged and took it We lay at an anchor before Andra from Wednesday the Seventh till Friday the Nineteenth of November when the last Quarter of the Moon began which made us hope that the Wind would change It being then a Calm about Moon-rising we weighed betwixt Ten and Eleven a clock at night and found a good South-west Wind. When we were got out to Sea we bore away to the starboard and pass'd betwixt Andra and Negropont with a Wind in Poop Sciro Ispicera Chio. Saturday the Twentieth before noon we made Sciro shortly after Ispicera and then Chio About evening the Wind turned East South-east but we still continued our course with good enough success until next morning November the One and Twentieth when about Three or four a clock we made Land but knew not whether or not it was Tenedo and about break of day we tacked and then found that we were pass'd it for we were before Troy The Ships running a ground and very near Land. Our Ship stuck a ground with the noise of which our Captain awoke and thinking the Ship to be lost he presently sent to view the Pump to see if she had made much water but they found none at all At the same time he launched the Boat and going into it viewed the Snip all round and found that she had received no damage her head having only struck upon the sand He thereupon ordered all the Sails to be furled and the Ship beginning to float again he caused an Anchor to be heaved out a stern by means whereof in a short time we weighed off of the sand We had certainly the particular assistance of God Almighty at that time for it blowing so fresh and we having all our Sails abroad the Ship in all probability should have stranded and nevertheless in an hours time we were got off without springing the least leak But if the ground had been very Rocky as it was but a kind of Oaze the Ship had certainly been lost Whilst the Seamen were busie in clearing the Ship seeing my self out of danger of shipwreck I considered the Ruins of that ancient and famous City of Troy which are still very remarkable and of great extent Being at length got clear we stood a little more off to the larboard and betwixt Nine and Ten of the clock The Chanel of the Hellespont we passed the Mouths and entered the Chanel of the Hellespont It was at this place where the Turks first passed from Asia into Europe At One a clock the Wind calming we came to an Anchor Monday the two and twentieth of November a South Wind blowing much about the same hour in the Afternoon we weighed Anchor and soon after pass'd betwixt the Castles of the Dardanels which we saluted with three Petrera's and about Three in the Afternoon we came to an Anchor CHAP. XIV Of the Dardanelles Gallipoly and our arrival at Constantinople THE two Castles of the Dardanelles are upon the side of the Chanel of the Hellespont which the Turks call by excellence only Boghas Dardanelles that is to say Gorge or Chanel the one is in Europe and the other in Asia they are two miles distant from one another which is the whole breadth of the Chanel at this place That which is in Romania on the side of Europe is in the same place where in ancient Times Sestos stood It is built in a triangular form Sestos at the foot of a Hill which commands and covers it and upon which there is a little Town This Castle hath three Towers covered with Lead whereof two are towards the Land and the third which is the bigest upon the Harbour it hath as I could privately discern with a Perspective-glass about twenty Port-holes level with the water in which there are Guns of such a prodigious bore that besides what I could observe by my Glass I was assured that a Man might easily creep into them The other Castle which is in Anatolia in Asia in the place where heretofore Abidos stood is in a Plain Abydos and seemed to me to be almost square it hath three Towers on each side and a Dundgeon or Platform in the middle Mahomet the Second built these two Castles The distance of the Dardanelles from Constantinople but it hath not so many Gun-holes as the other Mahomet the second Son of Amurath the Second built these two Forts which are properly the Keys of Constantinople that is at two hundred miles distance for they hinder any Ship Friend or Foe to pass them without leave else they would run a danger of being sunk All Vessels that come from Constantinople stop three days before the Castle in Anatolia that they may be searched whether they have any Counterband Goods or Fugitive Slaves on board Sestos and Abidos The Amours of Leander The Place where Xerxes caus'd a Bridge to be built upon the Sea. These two places of Sestos and Abydos are famous for the Love of Leander and Hero. Much about this place Xerxes King of Persia made a Bridge of Boats to pass his Army over from Asia into Europe From Andra to these Castles it is about two hundred and fourscore miles Tuesday November the Twenty Third having a gale of Wind about Noon we weighed Anchor but were obliged to drop it again in the Evening because of a calm Wednesday November the Twenty Fourth we weighed again after Midnight and putting out three Oars on each side of the Ship our Men tugg'd so hard that we arrived at Gallipoly about One a clock Gallipoly From the Castles to Gallipoly it is reckoned about five and thirty miles There we stopt eight days during which time we had leisure to walk but found no great matter worth the observation This Town was built by Callias Prince of the Athenians from whom it was named Calliopolis and by corruption Gallipoly It seems not to be well peopled and there
Prayers of the Hermites who at that time lived by it and chiefly of St. Macharius because the Pirats of that Sea much infested them Bahr el Malame it is called Bahr el Malame that is to say Mare Convicii There you may find a great many petrifications of Wood and some Bones converted into Stone which are pretty curious On the side of that Sea to the West The Mountain of Eagles Stones Dgebel el Masque is the Mountain of Eagles Stones called Dgebel el Masque where digging in the Earth and especially in time of heat and drought they find several Eagles Stones of different bigness so called because the Eagles carry them to their Nests to preserve their young ones from Serpents they have many Vertues and the Monks say that there are commonly many Eagles to be seen there You must make as short a stay there as you can for fear of the Arabs From the Mountain of Eagles Stones you go making a Triangle to the fourth Monastery and all the Journey from Ambabichoye to this Monastery Dir el Saydet is performed in one day This Monastery is called Dir el Saydet that is to say the Monastery of our Lady it is very spacious but a little ruinous It hath a fair Church and Garden but the Water is brackish and nevertheless there are more Monks in this Monastery than in the other three because the Revenue of it is greater and they have some Relicks also From this Monastery you go to the Lake of Natron Birquet el Natroun called Birquet el Natroun only two Leagues distant from it this Lake is worth ones Curiosity to see and it looks like a large Pond frozen over upon the Ice whereof a little Snow had fallen It is divided into two the more Northern is made by a Spring that rises out of the Ground though the place of it cannot be observed and the Southern proceeds from a great bubbling Spring the Water being at least a Knee deep which immediately as it springs out of the Earth congeals and makes as it were great pieces of Ice and generally the Natron is made and perfected in a Year by that Water which is reddish There is a red Salt upon it six or seven Fingers thick Natron then a black Natron which is made use of in Aegypt for Lye and last is the Natron much like the first Salt but more solid Higher up there is a little Well of Fresh-water which is called Aain el Goz and a great many Camels come dayly to the Lake to be loaded with that Natron From this Lake you go to another where there is Salt at Whitsontide made in form of a Pyramide Pyramidal Salt. Melhel Mactaoum and therefore is called Pyramidal Salt and in Arabick Melh el Mactaoum From the said Lake you return and Lodge in one of the Monasteries and next day come back to the Nile where you must stay for a passage to Caire or Rossetto if you have not retained the Boat that brought you CHAP. LXXII Of Aegypt the Nile Crocodiles and Sea-Horses AEGypt called by the Hebrews Mis Raim Aegypt Masr and by the Arabs at present Masr and in Turkish Misr is bounded on the East by the Red Sea and the Desarts of Arabia on the South by the Kingdoms of Bugia and Nubia The borders of Aegypt on the West by the Desarts of Lybia and on the North by the Mediterranean Sea. This Country lies so low that the Land cannot be seen till one be just upon it and therefore those that sail to it ought to be upon their Guard. Aegypt has no Ports on the Mediteranean fit for Ships except Alexandria and the Bouquer which is rather a Road than a Port The course of the Nile in Aegypt The River of Nile runs through the length of it and having its Course from South to North discharges it self into the Mediterranean by two mouths upon the sides of which stand two fair Towns to wit Rossetto to the West and Damiette to the East two miles below which it mingles its Waters with the Sea and by that division makes a Triangular Isle in Aegypt This Triangular Island was by the ancient Greeks called Delta because in Figure it resembles the Character Δ. The Delta of Aegypt One side of that Triangle is beat by the Mediterranean Sea on the North and the other two are bounded by the two branches of the Nile which divide at the point of this Triangle so that the three points or angles of this Triangle are the first at the place where the Nile divides it self into two the second at Rossetto and the third at Damiette The first Angle is at an equal distance from the other two to wit from Rossetto and Damiette and from that Angle it is five or six Leagues to Caire so that the Nile has only those two mouths which are Navigable for great Vessels for though there be some others yet they are no more but Rivulets The breadth of the Nile This River is broader than the broadest part of the Seine but it is not very Rapid unless it be at its Cataracts where it falls from so great a height that as they say the noise of it is heard at a very great distance When it overflows it seems to be a little Sea. The water of it is very thick and muddy but they have an Invention to clarifie it For in that Country An invention for clarifying the water of the Nile they make use of great Vessels of white Earth holding about four Buckets full of Water when they are full of Water they rub the inside of the Vessels with three or four Almonds at most until they be dissolved and in the space of a quarter of an Hour the Water becomes very clear and for that end most of those who bring Water to Houses have a Paste of Almonds wherewith they rub the Vessels as I have said After all this Water is so wholesome that it never does any harm though one drink never so much of it because it comes a great way over Land to wit from Ethiopia So that in so long a course and through so hot a Country the Sun has time to Correct it and cleanse it from all Crudities and indeed it is sweated out as fast as one drinks it In short The number of Villages upon the Banks of the Nile they have no other Water to drink in Aegypt and therefore most of the Cities Towns and Villages are upon the sides of the River and there are so many Villages that you no sooner leave one but you find another and all the Houses in them are built of Earth This River abounds not much in Fish and we had but one good Fish of the Nile at Caire which they call Variole and that is rare too Variole Crocodiles but there are a vast number of Crocodiles in it which perhaps is the cause of the scarcity of the
So soon as we were on board she made sail with a North-Wind and steered a course South-South-West about six a clock at night the Wind chopped about to North-West Capraia Elbe and we passed betwixt Capraia and the Elbe in the night-time the Wind blew very fresh Monte Christo Corsica Next morning we were got an hundred and fourscore miles from Legorn and saw Monte Christo a great way a-stern of us we coasted along the Island of Corsica and because we were too near Land about ten of the clock in the morning we stood away South-South-East the Wind slackening much All that day we had Sardinia to the Star-board Sardinia but at a pretty good distance In the beginning of the Night the Wind blew a little fresher but far less than the Night before Saturday morning the six and twentieth we had lost sight of Sardinia and being fair before the Wind so that no Sails but the Main and Main-Top-Sails could bear we put out our Stutting Sails About noon the Wind shifted about to the North and two hours after to the North-East and therefore we took in our Stutting Sails and kept on our course South-South-East In the evening the Wind abated so that all night long we were becalmed Maretimo Next day being Sunday we made the Island of Maretimo a-head and about eleven a clock in the morning we stood away South-East about two a clock afternoon we made a Sail a great way off to the Leeward all that day we had a Calm till night when the Wind blew so fresh again that about midnight we past betwixt Maretimo Levanzo Favignane Levanzo and La Favignane leaving the first of these Islands to the Star-board and the other two to the Larboard then we steered away East South-East shortly after the Wind so slackned that we were becalmed Sicily Capo Boco Marsala Munday morning about break of day we were got very near the Land of Sicily to the Wind-ward of Capo Boco over against Marsala it is five hundred miles from Legorn We made still some way in our course East-South-East notwithstanding the Calm which lasted till noon when the Wind blowing fresher we coasted along Sicily pretty near the Shoar about four a clock afternoon the Wind encreasing a little we stood away South-South-East and this fair weather beginning with the New Moon made the Captain repent that he had not passed through the Phare of Messina Phare of Messina which would have saved him fifty miles in his course but then he told me that he durst not venture through so dangerous a passage in the Winter-time when Storms are so frequent and the rather about New Moon when commonly the VVinds change Towards the evening we were becalmed and had a breeze again in the beginning of the night and in that manner the Wind fell and rose several times during the night That day Murenes we took two Murenes or Sea-Eeles which were in the Fisher mens Wells this Fish is dainty Food but the Skin of it is Slimey and is so full of small bones that if one have not a care he may be choaked by them it is shaped like a common Eele and dies so soon as it is out of the Water Tuesday a very fresh East-North-East Wind rose with the Sun and we continued our course South-South-East about ten of the clock in the morning the Wind ceased and left us in a Calm over against Monte Gibello Monte Gibello which we saw so plainly that we could easily perceive it was covered with Snow A little after we made a Ship on head but because it stood in to Shoar we thought they were afraid of us The Calm lasted till night during which we had sometimes Breezes of Wind and sometimes Calms with which we made a little way Wednesday morning we were got in sight of Malta Malta seven hundred miles from Legorn and about two hundred from Sicily which we had not yet lost sight of He that looked out made a Sail towards Malta At first we were in a dead Calm but a little after we had a very great Sea from the West which tossed us sufficiently though there was not a breath of Wind we therefore furled our Sails and that rowling Sea lasted till one of the clock at noon when there arose a gentle North-North-East-Breeze which made us spread our Sails and stand away East-South-East that we might make Candie Candie seven hundred miles from Malta That Wind lasted not above an hour so that we were becalmed till about eleven a clock at night when we had a stiff North Gale with which we still continued our course East-South East That fresh Gale lasted all Thursday till night and then we had a strong gust of Wind with some Rain when that was over we had fair weather the Sea becoming Calm in a moment though before the Rain it was exceeding rough but half an hour after the weather and Sea began to grow rougher than before and then Calmed again which happened twice that night During these gusts the Sea was so rough that it was not possible to stand upright in any place of the Ship so strangely was she tossed because of a rowling Sea that came upon us on poop and on both sides the roughness of the Sea in poop was occasioned by the violence of the Wind and on the Star-board by the currents of the Gulf of Venice off of which we were Gulf of Venice and nevertheless we made betwixt eight and ten miles an hour About midnight it blew fresh from North-West with which we bore away East and by South that we might not stand too far off of the Gozo of Candie That Wind lasted all Friday the first of February Gozo of Candie about night we had smoother Water the Sea on poop only remaining which with the Wind that shifted about to the West and blew fresh made us run above twelve miles an hour but about ten a clock at night we had a swelling Sea again which made us rowl all night long Next day we were troubled with the same weather and strong gusts of Wind by fits About night since we had not made the Land of Candie as we expected by reason of the cloudy dark day it was consulted what course we should steer every one brought forth his observations and all agreed in general that our course was to the Windward of the Gozo of Candie but because one amongst them according to his account set off our course betwixt Candie and the Gozo though it was known he was in a mistake seeing according to his own account we must then have been very near and almost upon the said Gozo nevertheless for greater security it was thought fit to spare Sail and therefore all the Sails except the fore-Sail were furled and the Ships head turned due East-South-East least we might run too near the Shoar the Watch looking out sharp all night
long during which the Wind was very high and stormy which exceedingly tossed us Sunday about break of day we tacked about and stood North East that we might make Candie after two hours sailing the Seamen made something dark on head which they believed to be the Land of Candie we steered our course that way all day long but could not make it plain because of Clouds We continued the same course still till eleven of the clock at night and then began to tack and beat to and again that we might bear in with the Land of Candie It blew very hard all that night and we had a violent storm Munday by break of day we had the Wind at North which being quite contrary for Candie made us resolve to quit our design of standing towards that Island which we had made but very obscurely and to bear away towards Alexandria in Egypt The distance of Candie from Alexandria four hundred miles distant from Candie and therefore we steered our course South-East Towards Evening the Wind abated and we were becalmed until Tuesday Morning when there blew a gentle breeze from South-East which made us turn the ship's head towards the North we were obliged to keep so upon tacks that we might not over shoot Alexandria from which we were not above two hundred fourscore and ten miles Then did every one blame and curse the Sea-man whose errour was the cause that we were not in the Port of Alexandria About six a Clock at Night we tacked about and stood away South-South-West it blew so hard that our Vessel shipped the Sea on both sides one after another Wednesday Morning February the sixth the Wind was so violent that we were afraid we should sail our Masts because the Stays were very slack being loosened by the force of the Wind the day before the Stay is a great Cable that holds the Mastraunt each Mast has one the main Stay which is the biggest is made fast one end to the ship's head and the other to the round top of the main Mast To prevent that disaster all the Sails were furled the ship's head turned North-East and a quarter of an hour after the Stayes being well bent we bore away West-South-West with the missen and foresail the Wind being a little fallen after dinner we spread the main Sail and about six a Clock at Night having tacked about we stood East-North-East the Wind then slackening more and more Thursday Morning we were almost becalmed but about ten of the Clock a South-East Wind blowing again we tacked and bore away South-South-West about six a Clock at Night we tacked again and stood East-North-East Friday about two or three of the Clock in the Morning immediately after the Moon was set the South-East Wind ceased and the so much desired West and North Wind came in place of it which made us turn the ship's head South-East and make all the sail we could but we made but little way for all that the Wind being so easie that it was almost a calm It continued so till about five of the Clock at Night and then the Wind changed to North-West but was so easie that the Sea was very smooth about ten a Clock at Night the Wind chopping about to the North-West in five or six hours time we made a great deal of way there being very little or no Sea going but the Wind freshened afterwards and then we spared sail that we might not run to the Lee-ward of Alexandria the ship's head in the mean time lying still South-East Saturday Morning the Weather was very hazy and a little after we were almost in a calm About eleven a Clock he that looked out made a sail and shortly after another which were known to be Saicks coming from Egypt About two a Clock after Noon the Wind turned South-East and we stood away North-East an hour after it shifted about to the North-East again but was so easie that the Sea was smooth and we steered our course South a few minutes after it turned South-East again but so gentle that the Sea was as smooth as a Looking-glass We sailed South-South-West till six at Night when having tacked we stood away east-north-East-North-East About midnight the Wind turned West-South-West and we steered our course south-south-South-South-East after an hours sailing we found the Water to be whitish which made us think we were not far from Egypt The Land of Egypt that being the onely mark that can be had for the Land is so low that one cannot make it till he be just upon it especially when it is dark as it was then and that whiteness is occasioned by the Nile which carries it a great way into the Sea. Sunday the tenth of February about break of day it was thought we had seen the Light of Alexandria but it proved onely to be a Saick and because we were apprehensive that we were to the Lee-ward of Alexandria about nine in the morning we tacked about and stood North-West and about three a Clock after Noon tacked again and bore away South-West we had afterwards several Flurries that brought great showers of rain with them which were soon over About five in the Evening the Wind turned West-North-West and we tacked about that we might get to the windward of Alexandria from which we were still about an hundred and ten Miles distant and therefore we bore away North. In this manner we plied to and again against our will and it was our misfortune that we knew not where we were onely because we had not made the Island of Candie An errour of calculation in the sailing from whence with that Wind we might easily have come to Alexandria in two Days and one Nights time and the reason why we made it not plainly was that the Ship had run two hundred Miles more than we had reckoned and that when we thought our selves to be at the beginning of Candie we were almost quite past it as we since observed The Wind blew hard and we had several gusts in the Night time We held on the same course still untill Munday when about eleven a Clock in the Fore-noon we tacked and bore away South-West In the Evening the Moon three hours after the full was eclipsed I cannot tell at what hour that Eclipse began of how many parts it was nor how long it continued because she rose overcast with Clouds so that we could not see her but when she was coming out of the Eclipse as near as I could guess she had then been up near an hour and the Sun had not been set half an hour at which time she was almost half eclipsed The Eclipse decreased from the time we perceived it and ended half an hour after The Almanacks of Marseilles foretold it to be very great about two or three a Clock after Noon and by consequence affirmed that it could not be seen In the Night the Wind abated much and so did the Sea which in the
day time had been very rough and high Tuesday morning the twelfth of February we perceived the Sea very white about us and he that looked out cryed Land some thought it to be Damiette and others Bouquer In the mean time that we might not fall to the Lee ward we continued our course South-West About eight of the Clock we tacked and stood North East and a quarter of an hour after the Wind turning North-West we bore away West-South-West after an hours sailing we found the Water to be so little brackish that it was almost fresh and he that looked out thought he made Rossetto Wherefore thinking that we knew where we were we tacked about and stood away North-North-East About Noon the Wind freshened and at Night turned Northerly but was very gentle about ten of the Clock at Night we tacked and bore away West Wednesday about four in the morning we tacked and steered our course east-north-East-North-East and two hours after the Wind blowing fresher we tacked again and stood West-South-West About seven a Clock in the Morning we saw to the Lar-board land very near us which we all took to be the Land betwixt Bouquer and Rossetto so that we continued our course hoping quickly to see the Bouquer and that till eleven in the Forenoon when having discovered the Masts of several Saicks we thought our selves to be off and on with Rossetto and so we found our selves far out in our account wherefore having tacked about we bore away East-North-East about ten of the Clock at Night we tacked again and stood West-South-West and after midnight we had several Flurries Thursday morning the fourteenth of February the Wind slackened a little but we had several gusts till Noon about eleven in the Morning he that looked out made the Bouquer Bouquer and an hour after we easily saw it upon the Deck a little after we made the Farillon or Light-house of Alexandria where we arrived about three in the Afternoon when we entered the Haven by the South CHAP. II. Of some Curiosities observed during the Voyage and in Alexandria IN this Voyage I was convinced of one thing which I had read in the Travels of Monsieur de Breves but could hardly believe it because I had never heard it mentioned by any but him and that is that when sounding upon the Coast of Egypt one has onely forty fathom water it is certain he is just forty miles from land Marks for knowing how near one is to Land upon the Coast of Egypt the depth of the water from forty fathom downwards to one marking exactly the number of miles from the place where one sounds to the Land But under the name of the Coast of Egypt we are onely to understand the Land from Damiette to Rossetto betwixt the two Branches of the Nile for this rule is onely for that extent of Land. Besides the Murenes I mentioned before we took two other fish in our Voyage Porpess to wit a Porpess which was taken with a Fish-gig above Malta over against Cape Passaro Cape Passaro it was about five foot long and almost as big as a man without scales blackish in the back and white in the belly the head of it was about a foot and a half long and a large foot over its eyes as large as a mans and betwixt the two eyes it hath a hole like the mould in the head of a man by which it sucks in and spouts out the Water making it look like a Crown it hath two Cheeks which are onely of fat two Inches thick they begin at the eyes of it and end almost round at the snout which from the Cheeks to the point is about five Inches long and is shaped much like the beak of a Goose the Tongue of it is white a finger thick and two fingers broad it had an hundred threescore and sixteen Teeth all very small Its tail stands another way than the Tails of other fish which are forked upwards and downwards answering to their back and belly for the Tail of this is forked cross ways parallel to its two sides it hath the Yard and Testicles as big and long as those of a Boar and its Entrals wholly resembling those of Swine its skin is all fat a finger thick of which Lamp-oyl is made the flesh of it is like to that of an Oxe and very good I have tasted it and by the sight and taste one would always take it for Beef it hath onely great Bones and no small ones abounds with bloud which is as hot as that of a Beast it moans and sighs like a man and dies not presently when it is out of the Water but beats furiously with the Tail wherein its greatest strength lies A Fish called Fanfre The other Fish which was also taken with a Fish-gig is by the Provincials called Fanfre and is probably the same which the English call the Pilot-Fish there was two of them then together but one escaped the stroak This Fish is shaped like a Mackerel and is of the same length and bigness I found nothing singular in it all the back of it is begirt with streaks two fingers broad the one of a dark purple almost black and the other blew which interchangeably reach from the head to the Tail and the belly of it is white The Seamen say that this Fish coming once up with a Ship never leaves following till the ship come to harbour another being taken two days after they all assured me that it was the companion of the first which had not left off following the Vessel After all to my taste it is an excellent Fish and so it seemed to all those who had eaten of them formerly and also tasted these Seeing there are but few things in Alexandria which I did not observe in my former Travels I gave my self no great trouble to charge my Memoires with them at this time This Town lies exactly in the one and thirtieth degree of latitude and Rossetto is one and thirty and a half at least a Dutch Captain who had taken the height of them assured me of it The most considerable piece of antiquity that still remains there The Pillar of Pompey is that famous Pillar of Pompey whereof as I remember I have already written Nevertheless as I took pleasure to view it over and over again so possibly the Curious will not take it ill that I impart to them my observations I measured the shadow of it at the time when shadows are equal to the bodies which cause them and I found the body of it to be threescore and fifteen foot high without reckoning the Pedestal and Cornish but the shadow was upon a very declining ground Another day when the shadows were the double of the Bodies I found near an hundred and threescore foot onely of the body of it and eight foot of diameter or breadth and I observed that the Pedestal is near twelve foot high All
know that the Cornish of this Pillar is of the Corinthian order The same day also I saw something very remarkable which I had not sufficiently considered in my former Travels Being abroad with some others by the gate Del Pepe which looks betwixt South and West about a thousand paces from that gate as we went betwixt South and West streight towards the Palus Mareotis leaving the Pillar of Pompey to the left Burying places of the ancient Egyptians we saw Grotto's cut in the Rock we entered into one of them stooping and leaning upon our hands with lighted Wax-candles being within we found that the Roof was above ten foot high cut very smooth and on all sides we saw Sepulchres made in the Wall which is the Rock it self and of these there are four Stories one over another and from one range to another and from Story to Story there is but half a foots distance so that the intervals seem to be so many Pillars which support those that are over them their depth reaches to the bottom of the Sepulchres and so they serve for Walls to separate the one from the other In these Sepulchres we saw many dead mens Bones which we handled and found them to be as fresh and hard as if the men had died but the day before There were some lying upon the ground at the Entry into the Grotto which had been thrown out there I handled and broke some of them and found that they were rotten in the air but they crumbled not into ashes onely broke longways like rotten Elder nay they were also moist and had a kind of marrow within Coming out of that Grotto we entered into another opposite unto it where we saw Sepulchres as in the other at the bottom we found a way that led very far in but because we must have gone double in the manner as we entered the first Gotto and marched in that posture at least as far as we could see by the light of our Wax-candles we thought best not to enter in and be contented with the Relation we had that it reached above two French Leagues in length This was all that we could learn from the Turks who were with us and who told us besides that the Ancient Inhabitants of Alexandria had dugg those places to lay their dead in there is a great deal of probability of the truth of that and that it has been some burying-place I then considered the Palus Mareotis it reaches in breadth out of sight Palus Mareotis Khalis and is but some hundred of paces distant from the Khalis which hath its course betwixt the same Palus Mareotis and the Pillar of Pompey but they have no communication together Another day I went up to the Hill where the Tower is wherein there is commonly a Watchman to put out the Flag so soon as any Vessel appears A Watch-Tower from thence I easily discovered all the City and the Sea with the Palus Mareotis and all the Countrey about Being come down I went on Foot round the Ancient Walls of Alexandria beginning at the Water-gate The circuit of Alexandria that looks to the North and for some time going streight North till the Wall turns off in a right Angle towards the East and after fifty paces length turns again towards the North making there an obtuse Angle it continues so towards the North till you come over against the Palace of Cleopatra The Palace of Cleopatra which stood upon the Walls opposite to the mouth of the Harbour having a Gallery running outwards supported by many fair Pillars of which some remains are still to be seen on the Sea-side That Gallery they say and not without probability reached even into the Palace so that one might embark there In a Tower hard by are to be seen three Pillars standing which support a little Dome that in former times stood upon four but there is one wanting I cannot conceive for what use that little Dome was being in a place where there is no light perhaps it stood over some Cistern which at present is stopt up Ten or twelve steps from that Tower there is a Cistern where there are two Stories of Pillars and in many other places there are Cisterns supported in the same manner Cisterns upon Pillars Obelisks so that it would seem that most part of the Town hath stood upon Pillars A few steps from thence there are to be seen two Obelisks of Thebaick Stones one of which lies buried in the Earth nothing of it but the foot appearing the other is standing but the Earth must needs be raised very high in that place for in all probability that Obelisk is upon its pedestal of which nothing is to be seen nay not the foot of the Obelisk it self Opposite to this place the Wall turns again towards the East and with the other plane makes almost a returning right Angle and after a considerable space doubles inwards making a square but an hundred paces farther it runs out again a pretty way towards the North-East and stretches Northwards then making a sharp Angle it points betwixt East and South-Eastward as far as the Gate of Rossette after which it maketh an obtuse Angle and reaches along betwixt the West and South-West Along that side runs the Khalis and a little farther is the Palus Mareotis parallel unto it which is so broad that one can hardly see Land on the other side of it When we come over against the Pillar of Pompey which stands to the South of the Town on this side the Khalis we find the Gate del Pepe or Sitre which looks to the South-West and West and then the Wall which is doubled inwards in this place to make the Gate continues on towards the South-West and West as far as a New Castle which seems to be very strong and near to which a little from the Gate del Pepe the Khalis enters under the Wall into the conduits of the City from which all have Water into their Cisterns by means of Pousseragues Aqueducts Afterwards the Wall turns streight North and passes along the old Harbour opposite to which on the right hand are to be seen the Aqueducts which heretofore conveyed the Water of the Khalis from the Castle of the old Harbour to Bouquer Then the Wall runs streight betwixt North-East and North to the Water-Gate We were two hours in going the compass of Alexandria which reaches in length from East to West but is very narrow CHAP. III. Of what happened in the way from Alexandria to Sayde and from Sayde to Damascus Departure from Alexandria I Parted from Alexandria on Thursday the twenty eighth of February about nine of the clock in the morning in a Germe or open Boat but seeing the Wind was easie and that we were becalmed in the afternoon we put in again to the Harbour of Bouquer which we had passed On Board of that Germe there was a Corsar of Barbary
that they could not be seen but by holding it to a Candle and looking through and then they might plainly be seen these Melons come in Autumn Whilst I was at Mosul Eclipse of the Moon there happened an Eclipse of the Moon on the seventh of August it began about one a Clock after midnight and lasted till four in the Morning during all which time the Moon seemed to be of the colour of bloud All the while it lasted the Terrasses were full of People who made a continual clashing din with their Kettles which they beat with sticks and that to frighten a huge Beast which the People of the Countrey say would devour the Moon I learnt from a knowing man that the Authour of that Mummery was an Astrologer who foretold to a King an Eclipse of the Moon which stirred up his curiosity to desire to see it But having waited sometime though the moment prefixt by the Astrologer drew nigh he grew impatient and because the Eclipse happened not so soon as he would have had it he discharged his choler upon the Astrologer as he who ought to have answered for it and then fell asleep In the mean time the Eclipse beginning shortly after the Astrologer was in a new perplexity because on the one hand he durst not awaken the King and on the other he was afraid that if he did not awake before the Eclipse was over he would not believe it and yet make him feel the bad influences of the same To be short that he might come off the best way he could he invented a tale to the People and told them that there was a huge Beast which had a mind to devour the Moon and that to scare it away they must make a great deal of noise which they did and by that means awakened the King. Nevertheless it seems that the Romans had this custom of making a noise with Kettles and Drums to assist the Moon when she laboured in an Eclipse as may be seen in the sixth Satyr of Juvenal Nemo tubas atque aera fatigat Unde laboranti poterit succurrere Lunae CHAP. XII Of the Wind Samiel the Kelecks and the Authours embarking in that kind of Vessel WHen we came to Mosul it was resolved that five Kelecks should be made because many of the Caravan had a mind to go by Water to the end they might avoid the Samiel and I was one of those The rest departed on Wednesday the thirtieth of July and took their way through Mesopotamia which is certainly the shortest but no Village to be found upon the Road and two days after we had news that six of them were already dead Within a few days more came the Hazna which is the money for paying the Soldiers of Bagdad and because the Kelecks were long in making a great many took that occasion and on Wednesday the sixth of August went away with the Hazna through Curdistan and crossed the Water upon the Bridge of Mosul That is the longest way but there are several Villages upon the Road and my Moucre had a mind I should go that way however I would not partly because of the Samiel and partly also for fear he might play me some trick because I had refused him some Piastres that he would have had over and above our bargain though he had been already payed double and therefore he went away and left me A profitable advice This ought to be a lesson never to pay that sort of men before hand Next day after they were gone the news came that nine of them were dying Samiel But having spoken so much of the Samiel it is but reasonable I should relate what I have been told of it Sam in Arabick signifies poyson and ●iel in Turkish wind so that that compound word signifies Poyson-wind and it may be the ventus urens or East Wind of which Job speaks in the one and twentieth Chapter of his Book Having with much curiosity informed my self of that Wind all told me the same thing that it is a very hot Wind that reigns in Summer from Mosul to Surrat but onely by Land and not upon the Water and that they who have breathed that Wind fall instantly dead upon the place though sometimes they have the time to say that they burn within No sooner does a man dye by this Wind but he becomes as black as a coal and if one take him by the Leg Arm or any other place his flesh comes from the bone and is plucked off by the hand that would lift him up They say that in this Wind there are streaks of fire as small as a hair which have been seen by some and that they who breath in those rays of fire dye of them the rest receiving no prejudice if it be so it may be thought that these fires volant proceed from sulphurous exhalations that rise out of the Earth which being tossed by the Wind kindle for they are inflameable and being with the Air sucked in by respiration consume the entrals in a moment Or otherwise if it be no more but a bare Wind that Wind must be so hot that in an instant it corrupts the whole body it enters into and if it kill no body upon the Water the reason must be that these enflamed Vapours are dissipated or extinguished by the exhalations that continually rise out of the water which are gross and humid or because there is always a cool breez upon the water However leaving the discussion of this point to the learned what I have related of the effects of the Samiel is certainly true for I have informed my self thereof by many most of whom have seen and handled those that have died of it which is very common in Summer If that Wind reign from Mosul to Surrat as some say it must be along the Water-side for over land there are many places where it reigns not at all Having been so well informed then of that Wind I resolved not to run the hazard of suffering by it but because many were gone with the Hazna Kelecks they could hardly resolve at Mosul to make Kelecks which is a kind of boat wherein there is neither peg nail nor indeed any bit of Iron though it be made up of at least of as many pieces as our boats are It hath neither Mast nor Sail and nevertheless if it wanted Wind it would presently sink to the bottom And quite contrary to our boats out of which they are obliged to pump the water often into this water must be thrown For making of these boats then they make fast and tye together with ropes a great many Borrachios or leathern Jugs in a square figure but longer than broad Ours consisted of twenty Borrachios in length and thirteen in breadth which in all made an hundred and threescore Upon these Borrachios they fasten a train or hurdle of poles tyed together with withies and upon that bed of poles they place four benches
is very good Soil and if Cultivated would produce any thing but is is neglected through the Laziness of the Inhabitants who content themselves with their Dates there being in that Country vast Woods of Palm-Trees We parted from Koutmian Thursday the fifteenth of October half an hour after eight in the Morning and at first put over to the other side of the River where our Men went a shoar to Towe us our course being due North-West At that place the River grows pretty broad and I think is as broad as the River of Seine at Paris and yet is very deep and makes many Islands About Eleven a Clock we stopt at a Village to the Left Hand on the water side from whence we parted at one of the Clock About half an hour after nine at night we saw to our Right Hand the end of the Isle Dorghestan Dorghestan Koutschemal which from thence reaches to the Sea. We stopped before a Castle called Koutschemal which stands on the main Land near the end of that Island and on the same Hand This is a very large Castle and the Basha of Bassora has a Palace in it which as I was told is very beautiful and as some say he keeps his Treasure there Over against this Castle but a little higher on the other side of the water there is another square Castle with a Tower at each Angle We parted from that place Friday the sixteenth of October at six of the Clock and having the Wind at South we made Sail and stood away North-West A quarter after eleven Kout-Muethel we passed by a square Castle called Kout-Muethel which was on our Left Hand and is flanked with eight Towers one at every corner and one in the middle of each side and near to it there is a little Canal A little farther we saw a Straw-House where Officers of the Customs live who did not visit us but only ordered our Master to carry us to the Custom House of Bassora Leaving then the River of Caron we entered into a Canal called Haffar Haffar which was to our Left Hand or to the South-West of us at that place it is not two Fathom over in other places it is less but towards the middle is very broad it hath been made for a Communication betwixt the River of Schat-El-Aarab and the Caron there is good Land on each side of that Canal but it is not Cultivated and bears only plenty of Date-Trees The Canal makes many turnings it is very deep and our Men shoved the Bark forwards with Poles Three quarters of an hour after Noon we saw a Canal to the Right Hand which loses it self in the Fields and a little after another to the Left that runs into the Caron near to Kout-Mnuethel as I said before and then our Men went on shoar to Towe us There the Canal of Haffar grows very broad and at the end is above seven or eight Fathom over About four a Clock we saw a Canal that spends it self in the Fields Half an hour after we passed betwixt two square Castles each of which have a Tower at every Angle and one in the middle of each side they are called Kout-Haffar Kout-Haffar because they lye at the end of the Canal Haffar that has its mouth to the South it is about six French Leagues from thence to Bassora and about twelve to the Sea. We then entered into the River made up of the Tygris and Euphrates joyned into one the Arabs call it Schat-El Aarab that is to say the River of Aarabs We turned then to the Right Hand and stood away North-West having to our Left the Isle Dgezirak-Chader Dgezirak-Chader and seeing we had a breeze of Wind from the South we spread our Sail. Half an hour after five in the Evening we saw to our Left the end of the Isle called Dgezirak-Chader which reaches from the Canal by which they go to Bahrem to the mouth of Schat-El-Aarab there are Palm-Trees yet their Soil is not good but from the Canal of Bahrem till over against or a little above the Canal Haffar for from thence to the Sea the Land is barren perhaps because it being very low the Sea overflows it at high water Next to the Islle Chader we saw on our Left Hand the Canal by which they go to Port Calif and Bahrem it runs towards the South and passes betwixt the Isle Chader and the main Land of Bassora it is very broad and has above eight Fathom water but there are great stones in some places of it From thence to Bassora the River is above twice and a half as broad as the Seine is at Paris and yet is very deep all over Three quarters after six we saw on our Right Hand the beginning of a long Island called Dgezirat-el-Bouarin and a little after we had on the same hand the Isle El-Bochasi Dgezirat-el-Bouarin El-Bochasi El-Fayadi and not long after the Isle El-Fayadi to the Left Hand These are all great Islands full of Palm-Trees and nevertheless the Channel is every where very deep and broad The Wind slackened so at this place that we scarcely made any way at all however we drew near to the shoar on the Left Hand or West side and about half an hour after eight our Men took their Oars and Rowed till three quarters after ten at night when we stopt close by the shoar before a Castle of the Bashas that seems to be very lovely it has many Pavillions all made into Windows and Porticos for taking the fresh Air in the Summer-time and indeed these Castles are only for pleasure for they could make no great defence We parted from that place Saturday the seventeenth of October at six a Clock in the Morning half an hour after we entered into a Canal to the Left Hand which runs South-West we had on our Left Hand a very spacious Castle pretty entire on the side of the Canal but all ruinous towards the Sea-side This Canal at high water is as broad as one half of the Seine but when the Tide is out it is but a sorry Brook full of Mud. The Town of Bassora lies on the two sides of this Canal though along the sides of it there be nothing to be seen but Gardens the Houses being backwards We came along that Canal till eight a Clock in the Morning when we arrived at the Custom-House which is almost at the bottom of it and having had our Goods viewed we went to Lodge with the Reverend Fathers the bare-footed Carmelites which is not far distant at that time there was but one Religious Italian there Arrival at Bassora called Father Severin With a good Wind they come often from Bender-Rik to Bassora in a days time From Bender-Rik to Bassora in a day though sometimes it makes a Voyage of three weeks We found no preparations for War at Bassora only the Basha of the place finding that the Basha of Bagdad suffered
Channel Haffar which was to our Larboard and there begins the Isle of Gban Isle of Gban which reaches from that place to the Sea. Tuesday the tenth of November the Tide of Ebb beginning an hour before day we weighed Anchor and continued our course betwixt the Isle Chader and the Isle Gban and there we found the water brackish At this place the Palm-Trees end and the Land on both sides is only level and barren Plains and so low that at high water they are almost all overflown about two hours after day the water cast us so much upon the Land on the South side that our Poop raked the shoar and that is in a manner unavoidable in this place where all Ships are forced a shoar nevertheless though we were so near we had two Fathom water a Stern and three a Head and the current of the water drove us forward at a great rate in the mean time our men did what they could to get out again into the Channel and at length with the help of our Boat that Towed us they accomplished it We found three Mahometan Ships which set out the same day that we did from Bassora and all three had had the same luck having been by the force of the stream cast a shoar as well as we The Course we stood from Bassora till we came to the Sea was in the beginning whilst we had the Wind at South-East South South West and after we had it at North-West we Steered always East South-East or South South-East About nine a Clock in the morning we had a pretty brisk Gale from North-West which made us spread our Mizan and Mizan-Top-Sail the Main and Main-Top-Sail and the Fore-Sail and Fore-Top-Sail and then we steered away South South-West making the more way as the Wind grew fresher the water is very broad at this place About half an hour after three a Clock in the Afternoon we came to an Anchor near the Mouth of the River because our Men would not venture out to Sea in the night-time for fear of being stranded for in the mouth of this River there is but two Fathom water when the Tide is out and the other Ships did as we did the Wind in the mean time ceased about midnight Next day we weighed Anchor about half an hour after six in the Morning and having spread the Fore-Top-Sail we Steered away South South-East but seeing it was little better than a calm we made but very little way nevertheless we began to lose sight of Land on all hands and had betwixt five and six Fathom water About nine a Clock we came to an Anchor to stay for the Tide because then we had but little water about eleven a Clock it being flood we weighed and a North-West Wind rising at the same time we clapt on all our Sails Steering our Course sometimes South-East sometimes South and sometimes South-West according to the water we found which was sometimes but three and sometimes four Fathom Half an hour after one of the Clock we had four Fathom and a half water and at two a Clock five but at the same time the Wind chopping about to South we were forced to furl our Sails and come to an Anchor It is very dangerous putting out of that River after the first days of November The season of Sailing for commonly the South Winds begin to blow at that time and last all November whereby many Ships that put out too late are cast away Thursday the twelfth of November the Sun rose with a stiff Wind from South and at the same time the Sky was on all hands over-cast with such a thick Fog that we could hardly see the other Ships which yet weighed Anchor and were Towed by their Boats we did the same though it was against the Captains mind who feared a storm and would have kept still at Anchor We got our Boat then to Tow us the Ships Head standing East South-East in five Fathom water About half an hour after eight we unfurled the Fore-Top-Sail and stood away East North-East and a little after North North-East About nine a Clock we spread the Mizan-Sail whilst our Boat still Towed us About half an hour after nine the Wind shifting about to East we presently furled our Sails and turning our Ships Head South-East came to an Anchor a quarter of an hour after in three Fathom water That day they began to allow every one but two measures of water by day one to boil the Kettle and the other to drink each measure is about three Pints About a quarter after ten a Clock we weighed Anchor and were Towed by our Boat spreading our Mizan Main-Top-Sail and Fore-Top-Sail though we had no settled Wind but sometimes one way and sometimes another and we turned the Ships Head North-East A little after the Wind getting in to South-East we bore away East and presently it shifted to South so that three quarters after ten we came to an Anchor Friday the thirteenth of November the Pilot of Carek and the Merchants prevailed so far with the Captain that he gave way to the weighing of Anchor at three quarters of an hour after seven though he was of a contrary Opinion and the truth is there was no reason to weigh because it blew a strong Wind from South-East and we had but little water on all hands We had indeed four Fathom at that time but seeing it was a Tide of Ebb we had reason to fear running a ground and to put out to Sea which was the thing the Merchants desired was to run into the storm In fine notwithstanding all these Reasons our men Towed us and we spread the Fore-Top-Sail but we held no certain Course the other Ships did as we did and perceiving us to cast Anchor three quarters of an hour after they did the like This is the inconvenience where many Ships are together that if one weigh or come to an Anchor the rest must do the same for if they should fail to do it and any misfortune happened the blame would be laid at the Masters door in that he did not do as the rest did who are all supposed to understand their Trade Saturday morning the fourteenth of November we made a Mahometan Ship coming from Bassora where we had left her for all the strong South-East Wind which had constantly blown since the day before we weighed Anchor at nine of the Clock in the morning and made Sail with our Mizan Main-Top and Fore-Top-Sails Steering our Course East North-East Half an hour after nine the Wind getting about to South-West we let fly the Mizan Top-Sail and Fore-Sail and stood away East South-East At ten a Clock we tackt about and bore away West North-West and so kept beating to and again every half hour until three quarters of an hour after eleven that the Wind chopping in to South we came to an Anchor in three Fathom water we made short Tacks because of the little water we
had in all places not finding above three or four Fathom at most The Wind continued in that corner all day blowing fresher and fresher still and in the evening though the Wind was high yet the Clouds raked contrary to it from North-West to South-East from eight till ten a Clock at night we had several small showers of Rain at length after midnight the Wind changed into the so much desired North-West Wind and blew very hard Sunday the fifteenth of November the other Ships made Sail about break of day and we lay still at Anchor which extremely vexed the Merchants who thereupon came to words with the Captain but he told them that the other Ships were bound for Congo and that his must put into the Isle Carek which was near so that it would be time enough to weigh at noon that we might not run in too near the Land in danger to be cast away by so high a Wind nevertheless to please them he commanded to weigh about seven a Clock in the morning but he made Sail only with Fore-Sail Fore-Top-Sail and Sprit-Sail we Steered our Course South-East and the Ship run about four Miles and a half an hour About six a Clock at night we stood away East and about seven a Clock North-East and then furled all our Sails except the Sprit-Sail and Fore-Top-Sail having then fifteen Fathom water About ten a Clock we furled all our Sails but the Sprit-Sail Monday the sixth of November the Wind ceased about two a Clock in the morning and began to blow again about six but not so strong as the day before that we might not lose it about half an hour after we spread all our Sails and Steered away South-East It was not long before we made the main Land of Bender-Regh to the Larboard About half an hour after nine we made the Isle Carek on Head Cargou and about noon we Sailed near to the Isle Cargou which was to our Larboard This Isle reaches in length from North to South it is but small and all of white Sand which is the reason it is not inhabited it is close by and almost over against the Isle Carek but a little lower towards Bender Regh Then we furled our Mizan and Main-Sail and Steered away South At one of the Clock we found thirteen Fathom water About half an hour after we began to have the Isle Carek on our Starboard and bore away South South-East having then six Fathom water Half an hour after two we had eight Fathom water and turned the Ships Head Head South-West Three quarters after two we came to an Anchor to the East of the Island towards the point of it that looks to the South-East in ten Fathom water There we found one of the three Ships that had left us at Anchor having some Goods to unload but the other two kept out at Sea. The Isle of Carek reaches in length from South-East to North-West Carek it is very narrow and about three or four Leagues in compass it is about twelve Leagues from Bender-Regh and fifty from Bassora This Island is partly hilly and partly plain it produces Wheat Barley Dates and good Grapes there is very good water upon it also which comes from a Hill that has many ancient Wells ten or twelve Fathoms deep dug in the Rock on the top of it and as I was told there are steps in them to go down to the bottom and the people of the Island go thither to take the fresh Air in the Summer-time The water passes at the bottom of these Wells and from thence runs under ground into the Plain near to these Wells there is a Mosque upon the Hill. There may be at least an hundred and fifty Houses in all the Island as I was told but they are scattered up and down and to speak properly they are no more but pitiful Huts nevertheless every one of them has a Well of Spring-water Near to that Isle they Fish for Pearl Pearl-Fishing at the same time they do at Bahrem and I was told that during the season of Fishing which is in May June July and August there are to be seen about this Island above an hundred Taranquins or Fisher-Boats The King of Persia is Lord of it and has a Governour there who depends on the Governour of Bender Regh The people of this Island are all Fishermen and live only on Salt Fish and Dates The Ships that are bound for Bassora commonly touch at this place to take in a Pilot who conducts them to Bassora and brings them back again at four months end to the same Island where they leave him There we left ours Arrival at the Isle of Carek who had been taken in four months before But it was not only to set him a shoar that we touched at that Island our chief business was to unload Goods belonging to Codgiaminas which were Indigo Cloaths and other Indian Commodities brought in the same Ship and which not being disposed of at Bassora through the bad Conduct of the Vikil he was necessitated to reimbark and send them to Carek to be conveyed from thence to Bender-Regh and so to Ispahan Besides they made account to take on Board several Armenian Merchants and their mony who waited on this Island for a passage to the Indies for within these late years the Armenians that they may not pay Custom at Congo have taken the Course to go streight from Schiras to Bender-Regh where there is no Custom-House and from thence pass over to Carek where they wait for the opportunity of some Ships coming that way which may carry them and their mony However the Mouson before some Armenians upon their return from the Indies having put a shoar at Bender-Regh to avoid the Customs of Congo the Customer went to Law with them about it at Ispahan pretending that they ought to pay him the Custom and it was thought that it would cost them at least a good part of the mony which they must have paid at Congo and that for the future there would be a Custom-House established at Bender-Regh The Ships that touch at Carek keep out at Sea to the Westward of it to shun the danger of being cast away in that narrow streight which is betwixt Carek and Cargou As soon as we were come to an Anchor five or six small Taranquins which are those sowed Boats I described before came a Board of us to take in all the Goods that were for Persia which lasted from five till half an hour after seven a Clock at night Our Company were much deceived as to the Armenian Merchants for contrary to their expectation they found not one which was occasioned by a trick of a Dutchman Captain of the Ship called the Masulipatan The trick of a Dutch man. who had given them a cast of his Trade This Ship being gone from Bassora a day before we put out was come to Carek two days sooner than we did the
had an easie Gale from North-East and immediately after we past the point of Angom that bears East South-East Over against this point which is at the entry of the Streight betwixt Angom and Queschimo there is five Fathom water and when you are got within that Streight you will find above twelve At break of day we had the East point of Queschimo to the North North-East of us and the West point of Lareca to the North-East and by North and the biggest of the four Isles of Selame with a little one near to it bore South-East and by East of us as the third which is a little separated from the rest did to South-East we could not see the fourth because it lay under the biggest These Isles are four Rocks over against and close by Cape Mosandon the Mahometans call them Selame the English Coin Isles of Selame or Coin. and a wedge the Dutch Mahomet Selame a very unfit name to be given by Christians One of these Rocks is bigger than the rest rising a little into a point on which they say there are wild Goats and the other two are less and lower one of them being very near the great one and the other more remote these two little ones bear South and by West from the great one and the fourth bears South from it which made that we could not see it from where we were Lareca The Isle of Lareca lyes in length from North North-West to South South-East it is a low Island having only some little Hillocks On the North side of it there is a Fort which the Dutch began to build under pretence of settling a Factory there but the Persians smelling out their design drove them out and finished it nevertheless there is but a small Garison in it They assured me that there is in that Island a fair Salt-pit A Salt-pit dug under ground in form of a Hall but so lofty and spacious that a thousand Men may be there at their ease They sell the Salt they get there at Comoron and along the Coast of Arabia About eight a Clock we stood away South-East and then we had Lareca to the North and by East of us and the great Rock with its neighbour to the East but the other that is at some distance from it to the East and by South Behind the fourth Rock at some distance there is another so big that it appears to be main Land but it is an Island and makes a Channel betwixt it and the main Land which is deep but very narrow Some English one day being half drunk and having a good Wind would needs in a frolick Sail through that Channel but so soon as they were got in the Wind failed them A dangerous passage and they were in great danger of splitting against the Rock however they preserved themselves with Fenders and Poles but not without a great deal of trouble and were sufficiently scared before they got out again if it had blown hard they must infallibly have been split for it is impossible to come to Anchor there there being nothing but Rock at the bottom A quarter after eight the Wind chopt about to East and we stood away North and by East having then Lareca to the North-East and by North of us and the great Rock with its neighbour to South-East and by East and the other that is separated to the South-East In going to Comoron one may Sail betwixt Queschimo and Lareca which are but a League and a half distant from one another though the Map makes this Streight five Leagues over or else betwixt Lareca and Ormus A fault in Geography according as the Wind serves Ormus is to the North-East of Lareca and a League from it From Bassora to Ormus or to Cape Mosandon which is near to it it is a hundred and fourscore Leagues The Cape of Mosandon lyes in twenty seven degrees of North Latitude and that is also the Latitude of Ormus which as I just now said is very near to it After noon the Wind quite ceased so that at five a Clock at night we were becalmed and turned the Ships Head South-East and by South At six a Clock at night we had a breeze from North North-East but so weak that it could hardly move the Sails and we Steered away East About half an hour after nine it shifted about to East and we stood away North. About half an hour after ten it blew fresher and having heaved the Lead we found two and thirty Fathom water Towards midnight we tacked and bore away South and by East Friday the eleventh of December about four a Clock in the morning we tacked again and stood North and by East At break of day we were close in with the point of Queschimo having to the Right Hand also the Isles of Lareca and Ormus very near us At seven a Clock in the morning we tacked and stood away South and by East Three quarters after seven the Wind shifting to South-East we Steered North-East About half an hour after ten we found twenty eight Fathom water and only eighteen at noon but a quarter of an hour after we had three and twenty Half an hour after twelve a Clock it Rained at little which was followed by Hail-stones as big as small Nuts and exactly round An extraordinary Hail except in one side which was flat and smooth and these stones were so clear and transparent that one might easily see within them little white Roses of six blunt points with a little white Circle about their Center and in the middle a White point which was exactly the Center according to the description that Descartes has given us of these Meteors This Hail was the beginning of a great Storm and therefore we quickly furled all our Sails and scarcely was that done when the Storm broke with great fury and noise it began with such loud Thunder-claps A great Tempest that I never heard the like on one side we saw a Rain Bow and on Head the Air as black as it could be half an hour after Sun set CHAP. III. A Continuation of the Voyage to the Indies SPOUTS Spouts WHilst the Tempest tossed our Ship with all imaginable violence they called me to see a Spout that was to the Larborad near Land and a Musket shot from the Ship it was to the Leeward of us and lasted but a little while Turning to the other side just as it was spent I perceived another beginning not much above the same distance from us it was likewise to the Leeward for the Wind turned and changed then into all corners Whilst I observed it a second broke out at the side of it and within a trice a third by the side of the second I presently began to say the Gospel of St. John The Gospel of St. John. which is said at the end of Mass that God Almighty might for the sake of that Gospel preserve us from
transparent body the water winding and turning as it mounted up and now and then the thickness of it decreased sometimes at the top see the Figure G and sometimes at the Root see the Figure H. At that time it exactly ressembled a Gut filled with some fluid matter and pressed with ones Fingers either above to make the liquor descend or below to make it mount up and I was persuaded that the violence of the Wind made these alterations making the water mount very fast when it forced upon the lower end of the Pipe and making it descend when it pressed the upper part after that the bigness of it so lessened that it was less than a Mans Arm like a Gut when it is strained and drawn perpendicularly out in length then it grew as big as ones Thigh and afterwards dwindled again very small At length I perceived that the boyling on the surface of the Sea began to settle and the end of the Pipe that touched it separated from it and shrunk together as if it had been tied see the Figure I and then the light which appeared by the blowing away of a Cloud made me lose fight of it however I still lookt out for some time if I might see it again because I had observed that the Pipe of the second on that side had appeared to us three or four times to break short off in the middle and that immediately after we had seen it whole again one half of it being only hid from us by the light but it was to no purpose for me to look sharply out for this appeared no more so that there was an end of our Spouts and I gave God thanks as all the other Franks did that he had delivered us from them They attributed that mercy to the Holy Gospel which I had said wherein I arrogate nothing to my self being not so unreasonable as to think that my merit contributed any thing but perhaps God had some respect to our good intention and the trust that all of us reposed on his Holy Gospel In fine there is nothing more certain than that notwithstanding the inconstancy of the Wind which shifted all Points none of these Spouts came nearer us than the place where first they began and this I may with sincerity affirm that in all dangers of Storms Pirats and other accidents wherein I have been often engaged it was always my practise to rehearse this Holy Gospel and God in his great mercy hath preserved me from all The effects of Spouts These Spouts are very dangerous at Sea for if they come upon a Ship they entangle the Sails so that sometimes they will lift it up and then letting it fall down again sink it to the bottom which chiefly happens when the Vessel is small but if they lift not up the Ship at least they Split all the Sails or else empty all their water into it which sinks it to rights and I make no doubt but that many Ships that have no more been heard of have been lost by such accidents seeing we have but too many instances of those which have been known to have perished so of a certain Besides the Devotion of the Holy Gospel the human remedies which Sea-men use against Spouts is to furle all the Sails and to fire some Guns with shot against the Pipe of the Spout and that their shot may be surer to hit instead of Bullet they charge the Gun with a cross-bar-shot wherewith they endeavour to cut the Pipe if the Spout be within shot of them and when they have the good luck to level their shot just they fail not to cut it short off this is the Course they take in the Mediteranean Sea but if that succeed not they betake themselves to the Superstition which I would not practise though I knew it having learned it in my former Travels One of the Ships Company kneels down by the Main-Mast and holding in one Hand a Knife with a Black Handle without which they never go on Board for that reason he Reads the Gospel of St. John and when he comes to pronounce those Holy words Et verbum caro factum est habitavit in nobis he turns towards the Spout and with his Knife cuts the Air athwart that Spout as if he would cut it and they say that then it is really cut and lets all the water it held fall with a great noise This is the account that I have had from several French Men who as they said had tried it themselves whether that hath succeeded so or not I know not but for the Knife with the black Handle it is a foul Superstition which may be accompanied with some implicit compact with the Devil and I do not think that a Christian can with a good Conscience make use of it as to the vertue of these Holy words which as I may say put God in mind of the Covenant that he hath made with Man I make no doubt but that being said with Devotion without any mixture of Superstition they are of great efficacy to draw a blessing from God upon us on all occasions And so much for the Spouts by which we were more affraid than hurt but the Storm did our Ship more prejudice in its Course for we were obliged to lye at Anchor all that day and the night following until next morning when though it blew very hard from North-East we weighed at seven a Clock and stood away East South-East About nine a Clock we Sailed along Lareca which was to the Windward or Larboard of us About three quarters after nine we saw the Sky on Head over cast and the Air black with stormy Clouds and flurries but they were to the Leeward of us and therefore at first we dreaded them not but having more attentively considered them we found that they came from South to North and seeing it blew fresher and fresher perhaps because of the resistance it met with from those Clouds driven by a contrary Wind we furled our Mizan Sail and Steered away South-East and by East that we might avoid the Storm About a quarter after ten we took in all our Sails except the Main Course and Sprit-Sail About half an hour after ten it cleared up to the South and we made the biggest of the four Isles of Cape Mosandon called Selame which bore South and by West of us and at the same time we made the fourth of these little Isles which we had not seen before to the South and by East This little Isle lyes to the Southward of the biggest and is not far from it it seemed to me to reach North and South and is very low Land except at the end towards the big Island where it rises a little About three quarters after ten we set our Mizan and Main-Top-Sail again and stood our Course South-East the Wind being then North-East and by East and immediately after we had a shower of Rain For two hours after the
slackened much and we let loose the Main-Sail though we had still several gusts of Wind and Rain we had besides the Currents to struggle with which turned the Ships Head towards the Coast of Arabia with so much force that it was sometimes above a quarter of an hour before the Ship could be brought about again to our right Course of South and by East The Sea became smoother in the night-time though the Wind freshened a little Wednesday the sixteenth of December about break of day we made on Head six of the Ships which we left at Congo that were not to set out till some days after us during the late storms they had kept at Anchor at the Isle of Angom and the Wind being good this last night they had set Sail and coasted along Arabia and when we made them they were Steering away South-East to double Cape Jasques Half an hour after nine we set our Main-Top-Galant-Sail About a quarter after four a Clock we were got within a League and a half of the shoar of Persia off and on with a place where there are high white Hills a little up on the Land which with a blackish Rock that ranges all along the Sea-side makes a very pleasant prospect for seeing at a distance over that black a great many pieces of white Rock that rise in various figures one would take it to be a City and to the South of that imaginary Town upon the same Hill there is a piece of whiteish Rock broken off from the rest which looks like a Tower or Pillar upon a high Pedestal from thence it is but a League to Bombareca Bombareca Half an hour after five we were off of Bombareca which is only a very high square white Rock and flat on the top it seems to be very steep and at a distance one would take it for a square Fort this Rock is very near the Land and it is dangerous to approach it because it is surrounded with a Bank of Sand. A little after we came up with the Ships that were on Head of us and after the Selame or mutual Hailing they told us that it was but six days since they parted from Congo they had all signed Indentures to go in Consort and not to leave one another till they came to Surrat nevertheless one of them Hailed us and told us that if we would go in Consort with him he would leave the rest and our Captain and the Mate whose Brother was Mate of the other Ship having made answer that they were content he packt on all the Sail he could and followed us About six a Clock we got a Head of the Headmost of all the Ships and our Men handed the Main-Top-Galant-Sail and would have furled the Main-Sail to stay for our Consort who was a Stern of us but the Captain would first have the consent of the Souhreseart who was not of the same mind saying it was better to make the best of our way whilst the Wind was good so that we only took in our Main-Top-Galant-Sail and Steered our Course South-East and by South The Sea-men in the mean time kept a heavy muttering that we should leave the other Ship after we had promised to stay for her and occasioned her leaving of the rest but the clutter was far greater when our Mate who had turned in came out after an hours sleep and not seeing our Consort would needs spare Sail for when he was told what resolution had been taken he made a fearful noise complaining of our breach of promise but after all he was fain to have patience CHAP. IV. Of the rest of the Voyage to the Indies An Invention for Reckoning the Ships way WEdnesday about Sun set we began to keep reckoning of our way which is done in this manner At the Stern of the Ship they heave out a little piece of board about half a Foot long four Inches broad and very thin and smooth which is fastened to a Line at the same time they turn a minute Sand-Glass which is the sixtieth part of an hour and so long as this minute is running they veer off the Line but stop it so soon as the the Glass is out and when they have pulled it up they reckon how many Fathom have run off in that minutes time allowing for every seven Fathom a Miles running in an hour But it is to be observed that before the Glass be turned they let off with the Log fourteen Fathom of the Line and these fourteen Fathom are not accounted in the reckoning for they reckon none but those that run off whilst the Glass is running and therefore there is a mark to distinguish the beginning from the end of the first fourteen and at the instant that that mark begins to go off they turn the minute Glass This reckoning is found by experience to be pretty just and thereupon I told our Captain that I had seen the English do the same thing in the Mediterranean save that they did not allow those fourteen first Fathom and that they used but half a minute Glass or the hundred and twentieth part of an hour and that nevertheless they reckoned seven Fathom of the Line that run off during that minute for a Mile an hour of the Ships way that according to that reckoning he ought to allow fourteen Fathom for an hour his being a minute Glass and cut off these first fourteen He made me no other answer but that the Currents of the Ocean were stronger than those of the Mediterranean nevertheless one would think that since they reckon not those fourteen Fathom and turn not the Glass till they be run out they are altogether useless unless it be perhaps that they let them run off to the end that when those which they reckon begin to run the Log may be so far off that the Sea which beats against the Ship may not drive it neither forwards nor backwards and indeed before the Glass be turned they take notice whether or not the Log runs streight in the Ships wake and there is a red mark at the place where they begin to reckon to prevent their being mistaken otherwise if they should reckon as soon as they heaved out the Log the Ship runs some times so fast that they would not have time to consider whether or not the Log we●t streight in the Ships way Once an hour they heave that Log and then mark down every time how many knots or Fathoms of the Line has run out and every day at noon they cast up the account of their running so that they reckon by this means how many Miles the Ship has run in four and twenty hours that is to say from noon of the preceeding to noon of the present day and this they set off with a Compass upon the Sea Chart that they may know where the Ship is Though this be a very useful invention yet it is not too much to be relyed upon else
South South-East from the Town There were four Ships at Anchor there already and the same day four more came after us on their way from Bassora to Surrat CHAP. II. The Continuation of our Voyage from Bassora to the Indies COngo a little Town in the Kingdom of Persia lyes twenty seven degrees Congo and fifteen minutes North Latitude it stands upon the Sea-side almost at the foot of a blackish Rock which is very near the shoar and for some thousands of paces reaches from West to East it shelters all the Town from the North Wind and behind it there is a high white Hill as all the Hills along the Coast of Persia are white This Town lyes in length from West North-West to East South-East it is but very small and has a little Castle defended by three pieces of Cannon It has a safe Road for Ships though they be often tossed by high Winds whilst we were there it blew so strong an East Wind for four days time that no Boat could come or go a shoar and all the Ships that were at Anchor drove except ours though they had two Anchors a piece a broad but they being small Anchors took no strong hold in the ground but easily came home we rode it out very well with a great Anchor and all that we were affraid of was least the other Ships that drove might run foul of us as indeed it happened one night when the Wind having broken the Cables and forced a Turkish Ship from two Anchors if she had not had a third which they speedily let fall she would have put us in danger for she was just upon our Head nevertheless I never heard of any Ship cast away in that Road. The Territory of this Town is of small extent consisting of a little Plain that is to the Eastward Westward and Northward of the Town betwixt it and the Rock but this spot of ground produces good Fruits as Figs Grapes good Quinces Pears Oranges Limons very large and good Pomegranats Melons Water-Melons and plenty of good Turneps it produces also Palm-Trees and two kinds of Indian Trees to wit Mango-Trees Mango Trees Arbor de Reyzes and those Trees which are by the Portuguese called Arbor de Reyzes that is to say the Tree of Roots because their Branches take Rooting in the ground They have Schiras Wine there but it is very dear and good Brandy made of Dates There are Sulphur-Hills near this Town and Ships take in great quantities of it in flat Cakes of two or three pound weight a piece to be Transported to the Indies It is very hot in this Town but the Air is good the Water is brackish and taken out of Wells there is some pretty good but that is only for the richer sort because it is dear being brought upon Asses a Parasangue from the Town and after all it is but Well water and hath always some bad relish This Town depends on the Chan of Lar in whose absene the Schah-Bender that is to say Customer or to render it word for word King of the Port for so they call the Customers in Persia governs all This Custom-House receives a great deal of mony both for Goods Imported and unloaded there and for the Commodities of Persia that are Exported from that Port to the Indies especially within these two last years that Ships go but very seldom to Bender-Abassi because of the exactions and extorsions of the Governour of that place exacting seven Tomans for Anchorage whereas at Congo they pay much less Less to be payed at Congo than Bender-Abassi Half of the Customs of Congo belong to the King of Portugal which makes Ships from all quarters come thither when formerly they never touched there unless they had been obliged to put into it for water One half of the profit of that Custom-House belongs to the King of Portugal who after the loss of Ormus still so infested the King of Persia by his Ships that continually kept cruising along that Coast that the Persian was constrained to make peace with him upon Conditions of which this was one that he should have the half of the profits of those Customs and five Persian Horses every year and therefore the King of Portugal keeps an Agent there who has the Portuguese Colours aloft upon his House The Portuguese Augustine Monks have also a Convent and Church there The Dutch were accustomed to send a Factor thither yearly to buy the Pearls of Bahrem which are for the most part brought thither it being but fifty Leagues from Congo to Bahrem and the Pearls that go from thence to Bassora being but the smaller but this present year one thousand six hundred sixty five they have begun to settle a permanent Factory there Being at Congo I had thoughts of leaving the Ship Hopewel and to take the opportunity of a Bark for the Sindy Sindy which is the hither part of the Indies and the place where the River of Indus discharges it self into the Sea. I had two reasons to incline me to this the first that I might the more regularly make the Tour of the Indies and besides I was willing to learn at a distance news of some Hollanders my enemies who were at Surrat before I came too near them Since I had the same design at Bassora where there were two good Barks each mounted with six Brass Guns ready to set Sail for the Sindy I was resolved to have taken passage in one of them and for that end had spoken to the Reis who was a Turk of Bassora but the War of the Basha supervening he caused those Barks to be unloaded of their Goods and loaded with Corn for the Castle of Corna where he designed to maintain the brunt of the War and besides he made account in case he should be overcome to put on Board those two Barks the best of his Goods and make his escape with them not into Persia where the last time he had taken refuge there they would have Arrested him but to the Indies In the mean time that unexpected War broke all my Measures and left me none other to take for the same design because there was not a Ship at Bassora bound for that Voyage and that a little before hoping to have a passage in one of these two Barks I had let slip the occasion of a Galliot going to Congo where she expected to take in mony and then continue her Course to Sindy finding my self frustrate of my expectation I was obliged to take Shipping in the Hopewel that being come to Congo I might take the occasion of a Bark for Sindy In the beginning of December they put out from Congo for the Indies for every year in the beginning of December several small Barks Sail from Congo to Sindy but we found none there but the Galliot which set out from Bassora there being no other to make the Voyage this year I made enquiry whether or not it was