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A13513 Three vveekes, three daies, and three houres obseruations and trauel, from London to Hamburgh in Germanie amongst Iewes and gentiles, with descriptions of townes and towers, castles and cittadels, artificiall gallowses, naturall hangmen: and dedicated for the present, to the absent Odcombian knight errant, Sr. Thomas Coriat. Great Brittaines error, and the worlds mirror. By Iohn Taylor. Taylor, John, 1580-1653. 1617 (1617) STC 23807; ESTC S118268 20,113 44

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●●ree VVeekes three daies and three houres OBSERVATIONS AND TRAVEL FROM LONDON to HAMBVRGH in Germanie Amongst Iewes and Gentiles with Descriptions of Townes and Towers Castles and Cittadels artificiall Gallowses Naturall Hangmen And Dedicated for the present to the absent Odcombian Knight Errant S r. THOMAS CORIAT Great Brittaines Error and the worlds Mirror By IOHN TAYLOR LONDON Printed by EDWARD GRIFFIN and are to be sold by GEORGE GYBBS at the signe of the Flower-deluce in Pauls Church yard 1617. TO THE COSMOgraphicall Geographicall describer Geometricall measurer Historiographicall Calligraphicall Relater and Writer Enigmaticall Pragmaticall Dogmaticall Obseruer Ingrosser Surueyer and Eloquent Brittish Graecian Latinist or Latine Graecian Orator the Odcombyan Deambulator Perambulator Ambler Trotter or vn-tyred Traueller Sir THOMAS CORIAT Knight of Troy and one of the deerest darlings to the blinde Goddesse Fortune MOst worthy Sir as Quintilian in his Apothegmes to the naked learned Gimnosophists of AEthiopia very wittily saies Potanto Machyo corbatio monomosco kayturemon Lescus Ollipuff tingere whingo which is knowledge is a main Antithesis to ignorance and paines and trauell is the high way to experience I being therefore well acquainted with the generous vrbanity innated or rooted in your humanity in these daies of vanity I dedicate out of my affability debility ability imbecillity facility or agility this poore Pamphlet to your nobility in all seruility and humility not doubting but the fluent fecundity of your wisdomes profundity in your heads rotundity will conserue reserue preserue and obserue what I my industrious labors deserue I do out of mine owne cognition auerre and abett that hee is senselesse that will assent that the Fates did assigne with their whole assistance that any should aspire to be an associate in any assembly boldly to assimulate assay assault or ascribe to any mortall but your selfe superlatiue maiority or transcendency for trauels obseruations and oratorie These things being reuolued and ruminated in the sagacitie or acutenesse of my Pericranion I imagined that no man vnder the Cope was more worthy then your selfe to be a Patronizing Poplar to shelter my poore reed-like endeuors Howsoeuer in the preterlapsed occurrences there hath beene an Antagonisticall repugnancy betwixt vs yet I hope time and trauell hath worne it thred-bare or brought it to a most irrecouerable consumption withall I know you are vncapable of inexpugnable malice inueterate malignancy or emulation I protest tongue-tide taciturnity should haue imprisoned this worke in the Lethargicall dungeon or bottomlesse Abisse of euer-sleeping obliuion but that I am confident of your patronage and acceptance which if it fall out not according to any Promerits of mine but out of mine owne expectation of your matchles and vnparalelld disposition I shall heereafter sacrifice whole Hecatombs of inuention both in Prose and Verse at the shrine of your vnfellowed and vnfollowed vertues So wishing more to see you then to heare from you because writers want worke and the Presse is turned voluntarie through the scarcity of imployments which I hope your presence will supply I pray that Neptune AEolus Tellus Bacchus and all the watery windy earthly and drinking Deities may be officious auspicious and delicious vnto you humbly imploring you to take in good part this my sophisticall paradoxicall submission with a mentall reseruation of my loue and seruice to sympathize or be equiualent to your kind liking and corroborated affecting He that hath a poore muse to trot in your seruice with all obsequious obseruance IOHN TAYLOR Three weekes three daies and three houres trauels and Obseruations OR TAYLORS TRAVELS SAturday the 17. of August 1616. after I had taken leaue of some friends that would hardly giue me leaue to leaue them I was associated with fiue or sixe courteous Comrades to the Hauen of Billingsgate where I was no sooner come but I was shipt in a wherry for the port of Graues-end and hauing two women and three men in my company thither we past the way away by telling tales by turnes Where one of the women tooke vpon her very Logically to defend the honesty of Brokers and she maintained her Paradoxicall Arguments so pithily as if her selfe like a desperate pawne had layen seauen yeares in Lauender on sweetning in long Lane or amongst the dogged inhabitants of Houndsditch And one of the men replied that he thanked God he neuer had any need of them whereupon I began to suspect him to be a crafty knaue because the Prouerbe saies A crafty knaue needs no broker and indeede after I had enquired what countriman he was he told me he was a Welch man and a Iustices Clarke I left him as I found him hoping neuer to be troubled with his binding ouer and withdrawing and so landing at Graues-end wee all went to the Christopher where wee tooke a Bachanalian farewell one of another where I remained till the Munday following awayting the comming downe of the ship that I was to be transported in About the houre of three in the afternoone with good hope we weighed Anchor and with a curteous tide and a gentle winde we sailed downe the riuer of Thames as farre as the grand Oyster hauen of Quinborough where though our ship was not Sea-sicke yet shee cast Anchor I meane On the morrow being Tuesday wee weighed and with the friendly breath of Zephirus aliâs a Westerne wind our sailes being swolne our ship called the Iudith who with her sterne cut the liquid mounting mountaines of Neptunes wauering territories as nimbly as Hebrew Iudith beheaded Holofernes so that by the bountifull fauour of him that rules both Windes and Seas on the Thursday following wee espied the coast of Freezeland and the next day wee sailed by an Iland called the Holy Land which may bee called the Land of Lobsters or the Countrie of Crabs for the plentie of those kinde of crawling creatures that are taken there But we taking time by the fore-top let no aduantage slip but with a merry Gale and a friendly floud on the Friday wee sailed vp the Riuer of Elue as farre as Stoad where we Anchoured till the morrow being Saturday and the feast of S. Bartholmew the Apostle we ariued at a bleake aliâs a towne an English mile from Hamburgh called Altonagh which is so called by the Hamburgers because it stands all-too-nigh them for their profit beeing inhabited with diuers tradesmen which doe hinder their freedome I was no sooner landed there but my company and my selfe went to a Dutch drinking-schoole and hauing vpsefreez'd foure pots of boone beere as yellow as gold our host said we had foure shilling to betall or to pay which made me suspect it to bee a bawdy house by his large reckoning till at last I vnderstood that the shillings hee meant were but stiuers or three halfe pence a peece So this terrible shot being discharged which in the totall amounted to the sum of sixepence English we departed towards Hamburgh where by the way I noted some 20. men women
impossible so to doe as neere as I can I will describe it the pauement is all of blacke and gray marble curiously wrought with Chequer-worke the seats and pues are carued Wainscot of wonderfull cunning and workemanship the roofe is adorned with the statues of Angels and Cherubins many in number all so richly guilded as if Gold were as plentifull as peauter there could not be more liberality bestowed besides there are a faire set of Organs with a braue sweete Quire of Queristers so that when they sing the Lutes Viols Bandoraes Organs Recorders Sagbuts and other musicall Instruments all strike vp together with such a glorious delicious harmony as if the Angelicall musicke of the spheares were descended into that earthly Tabernacle The Prince himselfe is a Protestant very zealous in his Prayer and diligent in his attention to the Preacher who although I vnderstood not yet I perceiued he was a good Diuine who grauely and sincerely with reuerence and eloquent Elocution deliuered the breade of life to the vnderstanding Auditors In this Towne I stayd with my brother from Saturday the last of August till the Thursday following which was the fifth of September When I was conducted an English mile on my way by certaine of my countrey-men my Lords Musicians where we dranke and parted onely my Brother and my Guide brought mee that night to a strong walled Towne called Minden which standeth on the riuer of Weazer and belongeth to the Bishop of that See On the morrow I walked to see the Towne where I bought 36. cheeses for eight pence and a yard and halfe of pudding for fiue pence which I brought into England for rarities So about noone wee tooke a boat to passe downe the Riuer which boat is much longer then any westerne barge but nothing neere so broad it was halfe laden with lime and chalke and by reason the winde blew hard we were almost choaked with the flying and scattering of that dusty commodity Besides the water was so shallow that we ran a ground 3. or 4. times and sometimes an houre sometimes lesse before wee could get a float againe which made mee and my Guide goe a shore at a village called Peterhaghen where we hired a waggon to Leize where wee stayd all night being come into our olde way againe where were a crew of strowling rogues and whores that tooke vpon them the name of AEgyptians Iuglers and Fortune tellers and indeede one of them helde the Good-wife with a tale the whilst another was picking her chest and stole out ten dollors which is fortie shillings and she that talked with her looked in her hand and tolde her that if shee did not take great heede she knew by her Art that some mischance was neere her which prooued true for her money was gone the whilst her fortune was telling But I appoynted a waggon ouer night to bee ready by three of the clocke in the morning when I arose and applyed my trauell so hard by changing fresh waggons so that that day I came as farre as Rodonburgh which was nine Dutch miles where I stayd that night The next day being Sunday the eighth of September wee tooke waggon towards Buckstahoo we had a mad merry Boore with an hundred totters about him and now I thinke it fit a little to describe these Boores their natures habits and vnmannerly manners In our English tongue the name Bore or Boore doth truely explane their swinish condition for most of them are as full of humanity as a Baconhogge or a Bore and their wiues as cleanely and and courteous as Sowes For the most part of the men they are clad in thinne buckerom vnlined barelegged and footed neither band or scarce shirt no woollen in the world about them and thus will they runne through all weathers for money by the waggons side and though no better apparrelled yet all of them haue houses land or manuall meanes to liue by The substantiall Boores I did meet aboue 120. of them that Sunday with euery one an hatchet in his hand I mused at it and thought they had been going to fell wood that day but my Guide told me they were all going to Church and that in stead of cloakes they carried hatchets and that it was the fashion of the Country wherupon it came to my mind Cloake quasi Cleaue-oake ergo the Boores weare hatchets in steede of cloakes There are other fashion Boores who weare white linnen breeches as close as Irish trouzes but so long that they are turned vp at the shooe in a role like a maides sleeues at the hand but what these fellowes want in the bignesse of their hose they haue in dublets for their sleeues are as big as breeches and the bodies great enough to hold a kinderkin of beere and a barrell of butter The Countey is very full of woods and especially oakes which they very seldome cut downe because of the mast for their swine which liue there in great abundance If any man bee slaine or murthered on the way they vse to set vp a woodden crosse in the place for a memoriall of the bloody fact committed there and there were many of those woodden crosses in the way as I trauelled They seldom haue any robbery committed amongst them but there is a murther with it for their vnmannerly manner is to knocke out a mans braines first or else to lurke behinde a tree and shoot a man with a peece or a pistoll and so make sure worke with the passenger and then search his pockets It is as dangerous to steale or kill an hare in some places there as it is to rob a Church or kill a man in England and yet a two-penny matter will discharge the offender for the best and the worst is but an halter and I was enformed that an English Marchant not knowing the danger as he was riding on the way hauing a peece charged in his hand as it is an ordinary weapon to trauell with there by chance hee espied an hare and shot at her and killed her but he was apprehended for it and it was like to haue cost him his life but before he got out of the trouble he was faine to vse his best friends and meanes pleading ignorance for his innocency at last with the losse of a great deale of liberty and fiue hundred pound in money he was discharged The reason of this strict conrse is because all the hares in the countrey doe belong to one Lord or other and being in abundance they are killed by the owners appoyntment and carried to the markets by cart-loads and sold for the vse of the honourable owners and no Boore or Tenant that dwels in those parts where those hares are plenty must keepe a dogge except he pay fiue shillings a yeere to the Lord or else one of his fore-feet must be cut of that he may not hunt hares A man is in almost as high promotion to bee a knaue in England as a Knight in Germany for there a Gentleman is called a Youngcurr and a Knight is but a Youngcurs man so that you shall haue a scuruy Squire command a Knight to hold his stirrup plucke off his boots or any other vnknightly peece of seruice and verily I thinke there are an 100. seuerall Princes Earles Bishops and other estates that do euery one keepe a mint and in their owne names stampe Money Gold Siluer Brasse amongst 23. two pences which I had of their brasse money which they call Grushes I had 13. seuerall coynes Many more such worthy iniunctions and honourable ordinances I obserued which are hardly worth pen and inke the describing and therefore I omit them and draw toward an end for on the Wednesday morning I was at an anchor at St●ad on the Friday night following I was by Gods gracions assistance landed at London So that in three weeks and three dayes I sailed from England to Hamburgh and backe againe staying in the countrey 17. dayes and trauelled 200. miles by land there gathering like a busie Bee all these honyed obseruations some by sight some by hearing some by both some by neither some by bare supposition FINIS