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A17832 Britain, or A chorographicall description of the most flourishing kingdomes, England, Scotland, and Ireland, and the ilands adjoyning, out of the depth of antiquitie beautified vvith mappes of the severall shires of England: vvritten first in Latine by William Camden Clarenceux K. of A. Translated newly into English by Philémon Holland Doctour in Physick: finally, revised, amended, and enlarged with sundry additions by the said author.; Britannia. English Camden, William, 1551-1623.; Holland, Philemon, 1552-1637. 1637 (1637) STC 4510.8; ESTC S115671 1,473,166 1,156

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troublous and rough narrow sea separateth by the space of two or three houres sailing from the coast of the Danmony and the inhabitants whereof observe the custome of ancient times They have no faires nor mercates and refuse mony they give and take one thing for another they provide themselves of necessaries by way of exchange rather than by prising and giving of money they serve the gods devoutly both men and women will be counted wizzards and skilfull in foretelling things to come Eustathius out of Strabo termeth the inhabitants Melanchlanos because they were clad in blacke garments reaching downe to the ankles and as Sardus was perswaded they depart out of this world for the most part so long livers that they desire to live no longer For from the top of a rocke as he saith they throw themselves into the sea in hope of a more happy life which doubtlesse was the perswasion of the Britain Druides Hither also the Roman Emperours were wont to send persons condemned to work in the Mines For Maximus the Emperour when he had condemned Priscillanus to death for heresie commanded his sectaries and disciples Iustantius a Bishop of Spain and Tiberianus after their goods were confiscate to be carried away into the Ilands of Sylly and Marcus the Emperour banished him that in the commotion of Cassius had prophesied and uttered many things as it were by a divine instinct of the gods into this Iland as some are verily perswaded who willingly for Syria Insula read Sylia Insula that is The Isle of Silly considering the Geographers as yet know no such Iland as Syria This confining or packing away of offendors into Ilands was in those daies a kind of exile and the Governours of Provinces might in that manner banish if they had any Ilands under them if not they wrote unto the Emperour that himselfe would assigne some Iland for the party condemned neither was it lawfull without the privity of the Prince to translate else whither or to bury the body of him that was thus banished into an Iland In the Writers of the middle time wee finde not so much as the name of these Ilands of Sylly but onely that King Athelstane subdued them and after his returne built a Church in honour of S. Beriana or Buriena in the utmost promontory Westward of Britaine where he landed Full against these on the French coast lyeth Plinies AXANTOS an Isle right before the Osissimi or Britaine Armorie which keeping still the name whole is called Ushant Antonine tearmeth it UXANTISSENA in which one word two Ilands grew together to wit UXANTIS and SENA For this Iland lieth somewhat lower now called Sayn which butting full upon Brest is named in some copies SIAMBIS and of Pliny corruptly Sounos about which from East to West for seven miles together or thereabout there shoot forth a number of rockes rather than Ilands standing very thick together Touching this Sain take with you that which Pomponius Mela reporteth SENA saith he lying in the British sea opposite unto the shores of the Osissimi is famous by reason of the Oracle of a French God whose shee-Priests vowing perpetuall virginity are said to be nine in number the Frenchmen call them Zenas or Lenas for so read I with Turnebus rather than Gallitenas and men are of opinion that they being endued with especiall endowments of nature are able by enchantments to trouble the sea and raise up windes to turne themselves into what living creatures they list to heale all those maladies which with others are incurable for to know also and to foretell things to come c. Beneath these there lie other Ilands in length namely Isles aux Motions neere unto Pen-Mac that is the horsehead Gleran over against old Blavic which at this day is Blavet Grois and Bellisle all which Pliny calleth VENETICAE For they lye opposite unto the Veneti in little Britaine who I wot not whether they were so named as one would say Fishermen for Venna in the ancient language of the Galls seemeth to signifie so much These Strabo supposeth to have been the founders and stockfathers of the Venetians in Italy who writeth also that they intended to have given Caesar battell at sea when he minded the conquest of Britaine These Ilands VENETICAE some out of Dionysius Afer terme NESIDES whereas in the Greek book we read 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is the Tract of the Islands Of which Priscian out of him writeth thus Nec spatio distant Nessidum littora longè In quibus uxores Amnitum Bacchica sacra Concelebrant hederae foliis tectaeque corymbis Non sic Bistonides Absynthi ad flumina Thraces Exertis celebrant clamoribus 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Nor distant farre from hence the shores doe lye Of Ilands which Nessides many call Wherein the wives of Amnites solemnly Concelebrate their high feasts Bacchanall With Ivie leaves and berries covered all The Thracian dames make not so loud a cry At Bacchus feast the river Absynts by Which Festus Avienus also hath expressed in these verses Hinc spumosus item ponti liquor explicat aestum Et brevis è pelago vortex subit hic chorus ingens Poeminei coetus pulchri colit Orgia Bacchi Producit noctem ludus sacer aera pulsant Vocibus crebris laiè sola calcibus urgent Non sic Absynthi propè flumina Thraces almae Bistonides non quà celeri ruit agmina Ganges Indorum populi stata curant festa Lyaeo From hence likewise the foaming sea displaies his swelling tide And from the deep short whirle puffs rise Here by the water side A mighty sort of women meet the feast of Bacchus faire To celebrate their sacred sports last all night long The aire Rings over head with voices shrill and under foot the ground With many a friske and stampe of theirs in dancing doth resound Like noises make not Thracian Dames the Biston wives I say Along Absynthus river while they use to sport and play Nor Indians neere swift Ganges streame farre in such frantick wise What time to God Liaeus they their set feasts solemnize Now that Bellisle is one of these foresaid Nessidae the authority of Strabo from the faithfull report of other doth prove sufficiently For it lieth before the mouth of the river Loire and Ptolomee placed the SAMNITAE in a coast of France opposite unto it For thus writeth Strabo Moreover they say there is a little Iland in the Ocean lying not far into the deep sea full against the mouth of Ligeris that in it inhabite the wives of the Samnitae which are inspired with the instinct or divine power of Bacchus and by ceremonies and sacrifices procure the favour of Bacchus that no man commeth thither but themselves taking their barkes saile away and company with their owne husbands and so returne againe into the Island Also that a custome it is among them to take away the roofe of their temple yeerly
it also was a parcell of the Kingdome of Northumberland and possessed by the English-Saxons no man gain-saieth and hereof it is that all they which inhabit the East part of Scotland and be called Lowland men as one would say of the Lower-countrey are the very of-spring of the English-Saxons and doe speake English But they that dwell in the West coast named Highland men as it were of the upper countrey be meere Scots and speake Irish as I have said before and none are so deadly enemies as they be unto unto the Lowland men which use the English tongue as we doe Ammianus Marcellinus writeth that together with the Scots ATTACOTTI a warlike people did much mischiefe unto Britaine and those Humfrey Lhuid guesseth how truely I know not to have beene also of the Scotish nation Saint Ierome telleth us plainely that they were a British people For he writeth that when he was a very youth while Iulian as it seemeth was Emperour he saw in Gaule the Attacots a British nation feed of mans flesh who when they found in the Forrests heards of swine flockes of neat and other cattell were wont to cut off the buttockes of their heard-men and keepers the dugs also and paps of the women and account the same the onely dainties in the world For so according to the true Manuscript copies we are to read in this place Attacotti and not Scoti with Erasmus who acknowledgeth this text to be corrupted Although I must needs confesse that in one Manuscript wee read Attigotti in another Catacotti and in a third Cattiti Neither can this passage bee any waies understood as the vulgar sort take it of the Scots considering that Saint Ierome treating there of the sundry orders and manners of divers nations beginneth the next sentence following in this wise The nation of the Scots hath no proper wives of their owne c. In another place also where Saint Ierome maketh mention of the Attacotti Erasmus putteth downe for them Azoti These Attacoti as appeareth by the booke called Notitiae served under the Romans in their warres in the very decaying and declining state of their Empire For reckoned there are among the Palatine aids within Gaul Attecotti Iuniores Gallicani and Attecotti Honoriani Seniores also within Italie Attecotti Honoriani Iuniores By this addition Honoriani they seeme to be of the number of those Barbarians whom Honorius the Emperour entertained and to no small dammage of the Empire enrolled as souldiers to serve in his warres Among these nations also which made rodes and invasions into Britain Iohn Caius a man much exercised with cares and endevours of the best kind and one who hath passing well deserved of our Common-wealth of learning reckoneth the Ambrones for that he red in Gildas where he writeth of Picts and Scots thus Those former enemies like Ambrones Wolves even enraged for extreame hunger with dry jawes leaping over the sheep-fold whiles the shepheard is out of the way being carried with the wings of ores and armes of rowers set forward also with sailes helped with gales of winde breake thorow the bounds killing and slaying all where they came This good meaning old man thought of that which hee had read in Festus namely that the Ambrones together with the Cimbri flocked by numbers into Italie and being busied about another matter it was quite out of his head that Ambro as Isidorus noteth doth signifie a Devourer Neither doth Gildas use that word in any other sence nor Geffrey of Monmouth who called the Saxons also Ambrones nor any other Ambrones than these could my selfe hitherto ever find in ancient Writers to have invaded Britaine ENGLISH-SAXONS WHen as now the Romane Empire under Valentinian the younger did more than decline and Britaine being exhaust through so many levies of all able men and abandoned of the Romane garisons could no longer withstand the force of Scots and Picts Vortigern whom the Britans had made their Soveraigne and chiefe Governour or who as others thinke had usurped the Monarchie to the end that he might establish his imperiall rule and recover the State falling to ruine much awed hee was saith Ninnius by the Picts and Scots he stood in feare of the Romanes forces and was afraid of Aurelius Ambrosius sent for the Saxons out of Germanie to aide him who forthwith under the conduct of Hengist and Horsa with their Ciules for so they called their Flat-boats or Pinnaces arrive in Britaine and after they had in one or two battels gotten the victorie against the Picts and Scots became verie much renowned and seeing the Britans still relying upon their manhood and courage they send for greater forces out of Germany which should keepe watch and ward upon the borders and annoy the enemies by land and sea Guortigern saith Ninnius by the advice of Hengist sent for Octha and Ebissa to come and aid him who being embarqu'd in 40. Cyules or Pinnaces and sailing about the Picts coasts wasted the Isles called Orcades yea and got many Isles and Countreys beyond the Frith as farre as to the confines of the Picts But at length after they had begun to fall in love with the Lands the civill fashions and riches of Britaine presuming upon the weaknes of the Inhabitants and making the default of pay and want of victuals their quarrell they entred into league with the Picts and raised a most bloodie and mortall warre against the Britans who had given them entertainment they kill and slay them in every place being put in affright and amazednesse their fields they harrie their cities they raze and after many doubtfull events of battell fought against those two bulwarks of warre Aurelius Ambrosius who here tooke upon him to weare the purple roabe wherein his parents were killed and that warlike Arture they disseize the Britans of the more fruitfull part of the Isle and drive them out of their ancient possessions At which time to speake all in a word the most miserable Inhabitants suffred whatsoever either conquerour might dare or the conquered feare For supplies of aide flocked together daily out of Germanie which still should renew warre upon warre against the wearied Britans to wit Saxons Iutes for so must we read and not Vites and Angles who by these proper names were knowne one from another although generally they were called English and Saxons But let us treat of these in severall and summarily that if it be possible we may have a sight of our originall and first cradles Howbeit first will I adde hereto that which Witichindus being himselfe both a Saxon borne and also a writer of good antiquitie hath related as touching the comming in of the Saxons Britaine saith hee being by Vespasian the Emperour long since reduced among Provinces and under the vassalage of the Romanes standing them in stead and serving to good use a long time became assailed by their neighbour-nations for that it seemed destitute and abandoned
Somersetshire and Wiltshire on the West with Devonshire and some part of Somersetshire on the East with Hampshire so on the South part where it carrieth the greatest length it lieth all open to the Sea bearing upon the British Ocean as I said erewhile for fiftie miles together or much thereabout A fruitfull soile it is The North part thereof being overspred with woods and forrests from thence garnished with many a greene hill whereon feede flocks of sheepe in great number with pleasant pastures likewise and fruitfull vallies bearing come it hath a descent even to the very Sea shore which in my description I will follow as it leadeth me for that I can find no better order In the very entrance into this out of Denshire the first place that sheweth it selfe on this shore is Lime a little towne scituate upon a steepe hill so called of a small river of the same name running hard by which scarcely may challenge the name of a Port or Haven towne though it be frequented with fishermen and hath a rode under it called the Cobbe sufficiently defended from the force of winds with rocks and high trees In ancient bookes I can hardly find any mention thereof onely thus much I have read that King Kinwulfe in the yeare of our Lord 774. gave by these words the land of one Mansion unto the Church of Scireburne hard by the Wersterne banks of the river Lime not farre from the place where he hideth the course of his streame within the Sea to this end that for the said Church salt might be boyled to the sustaining of manifold necessities Neere thereunto the river Carr dischargeth it selfe into the Sea and there standeth Carmouth a little village where the bold roving Danes having good successe in sea-fights wonne two victories of the English first vanquished King Egbert in the yeare of Christ 831. and then eight yeares after King Aethelwolfe Then there is Burtport or more truly Birtport placed betweene two small rivers which there meete together In this towne in the daies of King Edward the Confessor there were reckoned one hundred and twenty houses but in William the Conquerors raigne as we find in his booke of Doomesday one hundred and no more In our time in respect of the soile yeilding the best hemp and skill of the people for making ropes and cables for ships it was provided by a speciall statute to remaine in force for a certaine set time that ropes for the Navie of England should be twisted no where else Neither is this place able to maintaine the name of an haven albeit in the mouth of the river being on both sides enclosed within little hilles nature seemes as it were of purpose to have begun an haven and requireth in some sort art and mans helpe to accomplish the same From hence the shore winding in and out shooteth far into the Sea and a banke called Chesil of sands heaped up thick together with a narrow frith betweene lieth in length for nine miles which the South-wind when it is up commonly cutteth asunder and disperseth but the Northerne wind bindeth and hardneth againe By this Banke or Sand-ridge Portland sometime an Island is now adjoyned to the main-main-land The reason of which name is altogether unknowne unlesse it were so called because it lyeth full against the Port Weymouth but it soundeth more neere unto the truth that this name was given it of one Port a noble Saxon who about the yeare of our Salvation 703. infested and sore annoied these coasts This Portland in the declining state of the Saxons Empire for before-time writers never spake of it felt as much as any other place from time to time the violent rage of the Danes But when the Danish warre was ended it fell to the possession of the Church of Winchester For at what time as Emme mother to King Edward the Confessor whose name was called in question and she charged for incontinencie with Aldwin Bishop of Winchester had gone bare-foot upon nine culters red hot in Winchester Church without harme an unusuall kind of triall in those daies and then called Ordalium and so cleered her selfe of that imputation that she made her chastitie by so great a miracle more famous to posteritie She for a memoriall thereof gave nine Lordships to the Church of Winchester and King Edward her sonne repenting that hee had so wrongfully brought his mothers name into question bestowed likewise upon the said Church this Island with other revenues It is in compasse scarce seven miles rising up about the sides with high rocks but lying flat and low in the midst Inhabited scatteringly heere and there plentifull enough of corne and good to feed sheepe but so scant of woods that in default of other fewell they make their fire with oxe and cow dung dried The Inhabitants of all English-men were the cunningest slingers and very often doe find among the weeds or reeds of the sea Isidis Plocamos that is Isis haire which as Plinie reporteth out of Iuba is a shrub growing in the Sea not unlike unto Corall without leafe cut it up it turneth into a black colour and if it fall it soone breaketh On the East-side it hath one onely Church and very few houses standing close thereto and on the North a Castle built by King Henry the Eighth which also defendeth the entrance into the haven of Weimouth A little towne this is upon the mouth of Wey a small river over against which on the other side of the banke standeth Melcomb surnamed Regis that is Kings Melcomb divided from the other onely by the haven betweene But the priviledges of the haven were awarded from them by sentence of the Parliament howbeit afterwards recovered These stood both sometimes proudly upon their owne severall priviledges and were in emulation one of another but now God turne it to the good of both many they are by Authoritie of Parliament incorporated into one body conjoyned of late by a bridge and growne very much greater and goodlier in buildings by sea-adventures than heeretofore From thence the shore stretcheth out directly along by the Isle of Purbeck as they call it which for a great part of it is an heath and forrest like indeed replenished with Deere both red and fallow having also veines of marble running scatteringly heere and there under the ground In the midst whereof there is an old large castle named Corf seated upon a great slaty hill which after a long combat with time somewhat yielded as overcome unto time untill of late it hath beene repaired and is a notable testimony and memoriall of a Stepmothers hatred For Aelfrith to make way for her owne sonne Etheldred to the Crowne when Edward her sonne in law King of England came to visit her in this castle from his disport of hunting set some villaines and hacksters to murther him and like a most wicked Stepdame fed her eies with his bloud For which
it selfe into a channell yet often times it overfloweth the low lands about it to no small detriment Not farre from the said mere Furle sheweth it selfe a principall mansion of the Gages who advanced their estate by the marriage of one of the heires of Saint Clare Princes favour and Court Offices The shore next openeth it selfe at Cuckmere which yet affordeth no commodious haven though it be fed with a fresh which insulateth Michelham where Gilbert de Aquila founded a Priory for black Chanons And then at East-bourn the shore ariseth into so high a Promontory called of the beach Beachy-points and Beau-cliffe for the faire shew being interchangeably compounded with rowe of chalke and flint that it is esteemed the highest cliffe of all the South coast of England As hitherto from Arundell and beyond the countrey along the coast for a great breadth mounteth up into high hilles called the Downes which for rich fertilitie giveth place to few valleys and plaines so now it falleth into such a low levell and marsh that the people think it hath been over-flowed by the sea They call it Pevensey Marsh of Pevensey the next towne adjoyning which lieth in the plaine somewhat within the land upon a small river which often times overlaieth the lands adjacent In the old English Saxon Language it was walled 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 in the Norman speech Pevensell now commonly Pemsey It hath had a meane haven and a faire large castle in the ruinous walles whereof remaine great bricks such as the Britans used which is some argument of the antiquitie thereof It belonged in the Conquerours time to Robert Earle of Moriton halfe brother by the mothers side to the Conquerour and then had fiftie and six Burgesses After the attainder of his Sonne William Earle of Moriton it came to King Henrie the First by Escheat In the composition betweene Stephen and King Henrie the second both towne and castle with whatsoever Richard de Aquila had of the Honor of Pevensey which after his name was called Honor de Aquila and Baronia de Aquila or of the Eagle was assigned to William Sonne to K. Stephen But he surrendred it with Norwich into King Henrie the Seconds hand in the yeere 1158 when he restored to him all such Lands as Stephen was seased of before hee usurped the crowne of England After some yeeres King Henrie the third over-favouring forrainers granted the Honor de Aquila which had fallen to the crowne by Escheat for that Gilbert de Aquila had passed into Normandie against the Kings good will to Peter Earle of Savoy the Queenes uncle But he fearing the envie of the English against forrainers relinquished it to the King and so at length it came to the Dutchy of Lancaster Inward from Pevensey is seated Herst in a Parke among the woods which name also it hath of the woody situation For the ancient English-men called a wood 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 This was immediately after the Normans entry into England the seat of certaine noble gentlemen who of that place were a good while named de Herst untill William the sonne of Walleran de Herst tooke unto him the name Monceaux of the place haply where he was borne an usuall thing in that age whereupon that name also was adnexed unto this place which ever since was of the Lord termed Herst Monceaux From whose Posteritie by heire generall it descended haereditarily to the Fienes These Fienes called likewise Fenis and Fienles derive their pedigree from Ingelram de Fienes who had wedded the heire of Pharumuse of Boloigne of the house of the Earles of Boloigne in France About the time of King Edward the Second Sir Iohn Fienes married the heire of Monceaux his sonne William married one of the heires of the Lord Say his sonne likewise the heire of Batisford whose sonne Sir Roger Fienes married the daughter of Holland and in the first yeare of King Henrie the Sixt built of bricke the large faire uniforme convenient house heere Castle-like within a deepe moate The said King Henrie the Sixt Accepted declared and reputed Sir Richard Fienis sonne of the said Sir Roger to be Baron of Dacre And the same tittle King Edward the fourth chosen Arbitratour and Umpire betweene him Sir Humfrey Dacre awarded confirmed to the said S. Richard Fienis and to the heires of his bodie lawfully begotten for that he had married Ioane the cousin and next heire of Thomas Baron Dacre and to have praecedence before the L. Dacre of Gilesland heire male of the family Since which time the heires lineally descending from him being enriched by one of the heires of the Lord Fitz-Hugh have enjoyed the honor of Baron Dacre untill that very lately George Fienis Lord Dacre sonne to the unfortunate Thomas Lord Dacre died without issue whose onely sister and heire Margaret Sampson Lennard Esquire a man both vertuous and courteous tooke to wife and by her hath faire issue In whose behalfe it was published declared and adjudged by the Lords Cōmissioners for Martiall causes in the second yeere of the raigne of King Iames with his privity and assent Royall That the said Margaret ought to beare have and enjoy the name state degree title stile honor place and precedency of the Baronie of Dacre to have and to hold to her and the issue of her bodie in as full and ample manner as any of her ancestors enjoied the same And that her children may and shall have take and enjoy the place and precedence respectively as the children of her ancestors Barons Dacre have formerly had and enjoyed Now to returne to the Sea-coast about three miles from Pevensey is Beckes-hill a place much frequented by Saint Richard Bishop of Chichester and where he died Vnder this is Bulver-hith in an open shore with a rooflesse Church not so named of a bulles hide which cut into thongs by William the Conquerour reached to Battaile as they fable for it had that name before his comming But heere he arrived with his whole fleete landed his armie and having cast a rampier before his campe set fire on all his ships that their onely hope might be in manhood and their safety in victorie And so after two daies marched to Hastings then to an hill neere Nenfeld now called Standard hill because as they say he there pitched his Standard and from thence two miles farther where in a plaine the Kingdome of England was put upon the hazard and chance of a battaile and the English-Saxon Empire came to a full period and finall end For there King Harold in the yeere of our Lord 1066. the day before the Ides of October albeit his forces were much weakened in a former fight with the Danes and his soldiers wearied besides with a long journey from beyond Yorke encountred him in a place named Epiton When the Normans had sounded the Battaile first the skirmish continued for a pretty while with shot of arrowes
the Church of Ely for to expiate and make satisfaction for the wicked act hee had committed in murdering his owne mother then by Angre where upon a very high Hill are the tokens of a Castle built by Richard Lucy Lord Chiefe Justice of England in the Raigne of Henry the Second of which Family a daughter and one of the heires King Iohn gave in marriage to Richard Rivers who dwelt hard by at Stranford Rivers So it passeth by Lambourn Manour which is held by service of the Wardstaffe viz. to carry a load of strawe in a Carte with sixe horses two ropes two men in harnesse to watch the said Wardstaffe when it is brought to the Towne of Aibridge c. and then by Wansted Parke where the late Earle of Leicester built much for his pleasure From the mouth of this Roding this Tamis hasteneth through a ground lying very flat and low and in most places otherwhiles overflowne whereby are occasioned strong and unwholsome vapours exceeding hurtfull to the health of the neighbour Inhabitants to Tilbury neere unto which there bee certaine holes in the rising of a chalky Hill sunke into the ground tenne sathome deepe the mouth whereof is but narrow made of stone cunningly wrought but within they are large and spacious in this forme which hee that went downe into them described unto mee after this manner Of which I have nothing else to say but what I have delivered already As for Tilbury Bede nameth it Tilaburgh it consisteth of some few cottages by the Tamis side yet was it in ancient time the seate of Bishop Chad when about the yeare of our Salvation 630. hee ingrafted the East-Saxons by Baptisme into the Church of Christ. Afterwards this River passing by places lying flat and unwholesome with a winding returne of his Water severeth the Island CONVENNON which also is called COUNOS whereof Ptolomee maketh mention from the firme land This hath not yet wholly foregone the old name but is called Canvey It lyeth against the Coast of Essex from Leegh to Hole Haven five miles in length some part whereof appertaineth to the Collegiat Church of Westminster But so low that oftentimes it is quite overflowne all save hillocks cast up upon which the Sheepe have a place of safe refuge For it keepeth about foure hundred Sheepe whose flesh is of a most sweet and delicate taste which I have seene young lads taking womens function with stooles fastened to their buttockes to milke yea and to make Cheeses of Ewes milke in those dairy sheddes of theirs that they call there Wiches There adjoyne to this Island along in order first Beamfleot fortified with deepe and wide Trenches as saith Florilegus and with a Castle by Hasting the Dane which King Aelfred wonne from them Then Hadleigh sometime the Castle of Hubert de Burgo afterwards of Thomas of Woodstocke Duke of Glocester now defaced with ruines and in the last place Leegh a proper fine little Towne and very full of stout and adventerous Sailers with Pritlewel fast by where Sweno de Essex built long since a Cell for Monkes And here the land shooteth forward to make a Promontory which they call Black-taile Point and Shobery Nesse of Shobery a Village situate upon it which sometime was a City an Havenet named 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 For in old Annales of the English-Saxons wee reade thus The Danes being driven from Beamfleot goe to a City seated in East-sex called in the English Tongue Sceobirig and there built themselves a sure and strong Fort. Heere by reason that the bankes on both sides shrinke backe the Tamis at a huge and wide mouth rowleth into the sea This doth Ptolomee terme Aestuarium TAMESAE and corruptly in some other Copies TEMESAE and we commonly the Tamis Mouth More inward is Rochford placed that hath given name to this Hundered Now it belongeth to the Barons Rich but in old time it had Lords of ancient Nobility sirnamed thereof whose inheritance came at length to Butler Earle of Ormond and Wiltshire and from them to Sir Thomas Bullen whom King Henry the Eighth created Vicount Rochford and afterward Earle of Wiltshire out of whose Progeny sprung that most gracious Queene ELIZABETH and the Barons of Hunsdon Heere I have heard much speech of a Lawlesse Court as they called it holden in a strange manner about Michaelmasse in the first peepe of the day upon the first cocke crowing in a silent sort yet with shrowde fines eftsoones redoubled if not answered which servile attendance they say was imposed upon certaine Tenants there-about for conspiring there at such unseasonable time to raise a commotion But I leave this knowing neither the originall nor the certaine forme thereof Onely I heard certaine obscure barbarous rhymes of it Curia de Domino Rege tenetur sin● lege Ante ortum solis luceat nisi polus c. not worth remembring Leaving the Tamis Banke and going farther within the countrey yea from West to East these places of name above the rest standing thus in order shew themselves Havering an ancient retiring place of the Kings so called of a Ring which in that place a Pilgrime delivered as sent from S. J. Baptist for so they write unto K. Edward the Confessor Horn-Church named in times past Cornutum Monasterium that is the horned Minster for there shoot out at the East end of the Church certaine points of leade fashioned like hornes Rumford the glory whereof dependeth of a swine mercat and Giddy-hall an house adjoyning to it which belonged to that Sir Thomas Cooke Major of London whose great riches hoorded up together wrought him his greatest danger For being judicially arraigned innocent man as he was of high treason and through the incorrupt equity of Judge Markham acquit in a most dangerous time yet was he put to a very grievous fine and stript in manner of all that he was worth Brentwood called by the Normans Bois arse in the same sense and by that name King Stephen granted a Mercat and a Faire there to the Abbat of S. Osith and many yeares after Isabell Countesse of Bedford daughter to King Edward the Third built a Chappell to the memory of S. Thomas of Canterbury for the ease of the Inhabitants Engerstone a Towne of note for nothing else but the Mercat and Innes for Travailers Heere am I at a stand and am halfe in a doubt whether I should now slip as an abortive fruite that conjecture which my minde hath travailed with Considering there hath beene in this Tract the City CAESAROMAGUS and the same doubtlesse in the Romanes time of especiall note and importance for the very name if there were nothing else may evict so much signifying as it doth Caesars City as DRUSOMAGUS the City of Drusus which also should seeme to have beene built in the honour of Caesar Augustus For Suaetonius writeth thus Kings that
in France As for his wife being taken prisoner and famished in prison the extremest misery that can befall unto man or woman she paied most deerely for her wicked and malapert tongue His sonne Giles Bishop of Hereford by the favour and consent of King John having recovered his fathers inheritance neglecting his nephew the right heire left it unto his brother Reginald whose sonne William Lhelin Prince of Wales having taken him in bed with his wife hanged But by the daughters of that William the Mortimers Cantelows and Bohuns Earles of Hereford entred upon a great and goodly inheritance And this Brechnock fell in partition unto the Bohuns and in the end by them unto the Staffords and when Edward Stafford Duke of Buckingham was attainted many very goodly revenewes fell unto the King in this Shire and elsewhere It reckoneth Parishes 61. MONMOUTH-SHIRE BEneath Brechnock and Hereford-shire Southward lyeth the County of Monmouth commonly called in English MONMOUTH-SHIRE in times past Went-set and wents-Wents-land in British Guent of an ancient City so called It is inclosed on the North side with the River Munow that separateth it from Hereford-shire on the East side with Wye running betweene it and Glocester-shire on the West with the River Remney which severeth it from Glamorgan-shire and on the South with the Severn sea whereinto the said Rivers together with Vske that cutteth through the middest of the Country are discharged As for commodities necessary to mans life it hath not onely sufficient for it selfe but also affoordeth them in plentifull manner to the neighbours adjoyning The East part is full of grasse and woods the West is somewhat hilly and stony yet not unthankefull to the Husbandman The people as saith Giraldus writing of his owne age most inured to martiall conflicts is in feates of strength and valour right commendable and for skill of archery and shooting farre surpassing any Country in Wales In the utmost angle called Ewias toward the North-West not farre from the River Munow among Hatterell hills which because they rise up in heigth like a chaire they call Munith Cader there stood Lanthony a little ancient Abbay which Walter Lacy founded unto whom William Earle of Hereford gave faire lands heere and from whom are descended those renowned Lacies worthily reputed among the most noble Conquerours of Ireland The situation of which Abbay Giraldus Cambrensis who knew it better than I shall pensile it out unto you for mee In the most deepe Valley of Ewias saith hee which is about an arrow-shoote over standeth a Church of Saint Iohn Baptist enclosed on every side in a round compasse with hilles mounting up into the aire covered with lead and built sightly as the nature of the place would permit with an arched roofe of stone in a place where had stood aforetime a poore Chappell of Saint David the Archbishop adorned onely with wilde mosse and wreathes of clasping ivie A fit place for true Religion and of all the Monasteries in the Island of Britaine most convenient for Canonicall Discipline being founded first by two Eremits in the honour of an Eremite farre remooved from all stirres and noise of people in a certaine desert and solitary nouke seated upon the River Hodney running along the botome of the Vale whereof and of Hodney together it is called Lanhodeny For Lhan signifieth a Church or Ecclesiasticall place But if we will speake more exquisitely it may be said that the proper name of that place is in Welsh Nanthodeny For even to this day they that dwell thereabout call it Lhan Devi Nanthodeny That is Davids Church upon the River Hodeney Now the raine which mountaines breed falleth heere very often the windes blow strong and all Winter time almost it is continually cloudy and misty weather And yet notwithstanding such is the healthfull temperature of the aire which the grosser it is the gentler and milder it is very seldome there are any diseases heere The Cloisterers sitting heere in their Cloistures when to refresh and breathe themselves they chance to looke up they see on every side of them over the high roofes and ridges of their houses the tops of the hils touching as it were the skie and the very wilde Deere for the most part whereof there is heere great store feeding aloft as one would say in the farthest Horizon or kenning of their sight And it is betweene one and three of the clocke or thereabout in a faire cleere day ere they can see heere the body of the Sunne so much adoe he hath to get above the hill tops by that time And a little after The fame that went of this place drew Roger Bishop of Salisbury hither being then the chiefe Governour of the Realme under the King who when hee had a good while considered with admiration the nature of the place the desert solitarinesse the Eremeticall state and condition of the religious men there serving God without complaining together with their conversation in every respect without murmuring and grudging returned home to the King and making report unto him of such things there as were worth relation when he had spent the most part of the day in commendation of the foresaid place at length knit up all the praises thereof in this one word What should I say more quoth hee All the treasure both of King and Kingdome will not suffice to build this Cloisture when as therefore he had held a good while as well the King as the whole Court in suspense wondering as they did at this speech at length he expounded the darke riddle of his words by meaning the Cloistures of those hilles wherewith it is enclosed on every side But heereof enough if not too much By the River Munow are to bee seene Grossemont and Skinffrith Castles belonging in times past by the grant of King John to the Breoses afterwards to Hubert de Burgh Earle of Kent who that he might calme the Court-tempests of displeasure and for the renewing of peace and recovering former favour resigned both these and withall Blanc-castle and Hanfield into the hands of King Henry the Third In the other corner North-Eastward Munow and Wye at their confluence doe compasse almost round about the chiefe Towne of the Shire and give it the name For in the British tongue it is called Mongwy and in ours Monmouth On the North-side where it is not defended with the Rivers it was fortified with a wall and ditch In the middest of the Towne hard by the Mercate place standeth a Castle which as it is thought John Baron of Monmouth built from whom it came to the house of Lancaster after that King Henry the Third had taken from him all his inheritance for that he had sided with the Barons and stood rebelliously against him or rather as wee reade in the Kings Prerogative because his heires had given their faith and allegeance to the Earle of Britaine in France And ever since that time the
part of the Shire Nature hath loftily areared it up farre and neere with Mountaines standing thicke one by another as if she would here have compacted the joynts of this Island within the bowels of the earth and made this part thereof a most sure place of refuge for the Britans in time of adversitie For there are so many roughes and Rocks so many vales full of Woods with Pooles heere and there crossing over them lying in the way betweene that no Armie nay not so much as those that are lightly appoynted can finde passage A man may truely if he please terme these Mountaines the British Alpes for besides that they are the greatest of the whole Island they are no lesse steepe also with cragged and rent Rockes on every side than the Alpes of Italie yea and all of them compasse one Mountaine round about which over-topping the rest so towreth up with his head aloft in the aire as he may seeme not to threaten the Skie but to thrust his head up into Heaven And yet harbour they the Snow for all the yeere long they be hory with Snow or rather with an hardened crust of many Snowes felted together Whence it is that all these hilles are in British by one name termed Craig Eriry in English Snow-don which in both languages sound as much as Snowie Mountaines like as Niphates in Armenia and Imaus in Scythia tooke their names as Plinie witnesseth of Snow Neverthelesse so ranke are they with grasse that it is a very common speech among the Welsh That the Mountaines Eriry will yeeld sufficient pasture for all the Cattaile in Wales if they were put upon them together Concerning the two Meares on the toppe of these in the one of which floreth a wandring Island and in the other is found great store of Fishes but having all of them but one eye a peece I will say nothing left I might seeme to foster fables although some confident upon the authoritie of Giraldus have beleeved it for a veritie Yet certaine it is that there be in the very toppe of these Mountaines Pooles in deed and standing Waters whereupon Gervase of Tilbury in his Booke entituled Otia Imperialia writeth thus In the Land of Wales within the bounds of great Britain there be high Hilles that haue laied their foundations upon most hard Rockes and in the toppe thereof the earth is crusted over with such a coate of waterish moisture that wheresoever a man doe but lightly set his foote he shall perceive the ground to stirre the length of a stones cast from him whereupon when the enemies came the Welsh with their agility and nimblenesse lightly leaping over the boggy ground either avoide the enemies assaults or to their losse resolutely expect their forces These Mountainers John Salisbury in his Polycraticon by a new forged Latine name termed Nivicollinos that is Snow-down inhabitants of whom in King Henry the Second his daies he wrote thus The Snow-downe Britans make inrodes and being now come out of their Caves and lurking holes of the Woods enlarge their borders possesse the plaines of the Noble men and whiles themselves looke on they assault they winne and overthrow them or else keepe the same to their owne behoofe because our youth which is so daintily brought up and loves to be house-birds and to live lazie in the shade being borne onely to devoure the fruits of the earth and to fill the belly sleepes untill it be broad day light c. But come wee downe now from the Mountaines into the Champion Plaines which because we finde no where else but by the Sea side it may suffice to coast only along the shore The Promontory which I said before shooteth out toward the South-west is in Ptolomee called according to the diversitie of copies CANGANUM JANGANUM and LANGANUM Which is the truest name I know not but LANGANUM it may seeme considering that the inhabitants name it at this day Lhein which runneth forth with a narrow and even by-by-land having larger and more open fields than the rest of the Country and the same yeelding Barley most plenteously Two little Townes it sheweth and no more that are memorable Farther within upon the Creeke is Pullhely that is that Salt Meare or Poole more outward by the Irish Sea hat beateth upon the other side of the Bi-land is Nevin a Village having a Merket kept in it wherein the Nobility of England in the yeere of our Lord 1284. in a Triumph over the Welsh did celebrate the memory of Arthur the great as Florilegus writeth with Iustes Turnaments and festivall pompe If any other Townes flourished here then were they destroied when Hugh Earle of Chester Robert of Rudland and Guarin of Salop entring into this Country first of all the Normans so wasted this Promontory that for the space of seven whole yeeres it lay dispeopled and desolate From Nevin the shore pointed and endented with one or two elbowes lying out into the sea tendeth Northward and then turning afront North-east by a narrow sea or Frith they call it Menai it serveth the Isle Anglesey from the firme land Upon this straight or narrow sea stood SEGONTIUM a City which Antonine the Emperour maketh mention of some reliques of the walles I saw neere unto a little Church built in honour of Saint Pulblicius It tooke the name of a River running by the side of it which yet at this day is called Seiont and issueth out of the Poole Lin-Peru In which there is a kinde of fish peculiar to that water and seene no where else called by the dwellers there Tor-coch of the belly that is somewhat red Now seeing that in an ancient copie of Ptolomee SETANTIORUM PORTUS is here placed which according to other copies is set farther off if I should reade in stead of it SEGONTIORUM PORTUS that is the Haven of the Segontians and say it stood upon the mouth of this River I should perhaps aime at the truth if not yet should I obtaine pardon for my conjecture of a courteous Reader This Citie Ninnius called Caer Custenith and hee that wrote the life of Gruffin the Sonne of Conan recordeth that Hugh Earle of Chester built a Castle in Hean Caer Custenith that is as the Latine Interpreter transl●teth it in the auncient Citie of Constantine the Emperour And Matthew of Westminster writeth but let him make it good if he can that the bodie of Constantius Father to Constantine the Great was here found in the yeere of our Lord 1283. and honourably bestowed in the Church of the new Citie by the commandement of King Edward the First Who out of the ruines of this Towne at the same time raised the Citie Caer-narvon somewhat higher upon the Rivers mouth so as that on the West and North-sides it is watered therewith Which as it was called Caer-narvon because it standeth right ouer against the Island Mona for so much
head Yet others are of opinion that this name arrived in this Island with the English out of Angloen in Denmarke the ancient seat of the English nation for there is a towne called Flemsburg and that the Englishmen from hence called it so like as the Gaules as Livie witnesseth tearmed Mediolanum that is Millan in Itali● after the name of Mediolanum in Gaule which they had left behinde them For there is a little village in this Promontory named Flamborrough where an other notable house of the Constables had anciently their seat which some doe derive from the Lacies Constables of Chester Beeing in these parts I could learne nothing for all the enquirie that I made as touching the bournes commonly called Vipseys which as Walter of Heminburgh hath recorded flow every other yeere out of blinde springs and runne with a forcible and violent streame toward the sea nere unto this Promontory Yet take here with you that which William Newbrigensis who was borne neare that place writeth of them Those famous waters which commonly are called Vipseys rise out of the earth from many sources not continually but every second yeere and being growne unto a great bourn runne downe by the lower grounds into the sea Which when they are dry it is a good signe for their breaking out and flowing is said to bee an infallible token portending some dearth to ensue From thence the shore is drawne in whereby there runneth forth into the sea a certaine shelfe or slang like unto an out-thrust tongue such as Englishmen in old time termed a File whereupon the little village there Filey tooke name and more within the land you see Flixton where in King Athelstanes time was built an Hospitall for the defence thus word for word it is recorded of way-faring people passing that way from Wolves least they should be devoured Whereby it appeareth for certaine that in those daies Wolves made foule worke in this Tract which now are no where to be seene in England no not in the very marches toward Scotland and yet within Scotland there be numbers of them in most places This little territory or Seigniory of Holdernesse King William the First gave to Drugh Buerer a Fleming upon whom also he had bestowed his Niece in marriage whom when hee had made away by poison and thereupon fled to save himselfe hee had to succeed him Stephen the sonne of Odo Lord of Aulbemarle in Normandy who was descended from the Earles of Champaigne whom King William the First because hee was his Nephew by the halfe sister of the mothers side as they write made Earle of Aulbemarle whose posterity in England retained the Title although Aulbemarle be a place in Normandy His successour was William sirnamed Le Grosse whose onely daughter Avis was marryed to three husbands one after another namely to William Magnavill Earle of Essex to Baldwine De Beton and William Forts or de Fortibus by this last husband onely shee had issue William who also had a sonne named William His onely daughter Avelin being the wedded wife of Edmund Crouchbacke Earle of Lancaster dyed without children And so as wee reade in the booke of Meaux Abbay for default of heires the Earldome of Aulbemarle and honour of Holdernesse were seized into the Kings hands Howbeit in the ages ensuing King Richard the Second created Thomas of Woodstocke his Unkle and afterwards Edward Plantagenet Earle of Rutland the Duke of Yorkes sonne Duke of Aulbemarle in his fathers life time likewise King Henry the Fourth made his owne sonne Thomas Duke of Clarence and Earle of Aulbemarle which Title King Henry the Sixth afterward added unto the stile of Richard Beauchamp Earle of Warwicke for the greater augmentation of his honour EBORACENSIS Comi●a●us pars Septentrionalis vulgo NORTH RIDING NORTH-RIDING SCarce two miles above Flamborrough-head beginneth the NORTH-RIDING or the North part of this Country which affronting the other parts and beginning at the Sea is stretched out Westward and carrieth a very long Tract with it though not so broad for threescore miles together even as farre as to Westmorland limited on the one side with Derwent and for a while with the River Ure on the other side with Tees running all along it which on the North Coast separateth it from the Bishopricke of Durrham And very fitly may this part bee divided into Blackamore Cliveland Northallverton-shire and Richmond-shire That which lyeth East and bendeth toward the Sea is called Blackamore that is The blacke moorish land For it is mountanous and craggy The Sea coast thereof hath Scarborrough Castle for the greatest ornament a very goodly and famous thing in old time called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is A Burgh upon the Scar or steepe Rocke The description whereof have heere out of William of Newburgh his History A Rocke of a wonderfull height and bignesse which by reason of steepe cragges and cliffes almost on every side is unaccessible beareth into the Sea wherewith it is all compassed about save onely a certaine streight in manner of a gullet which yeeldeth accesse and openeth into the West having in the toppe a very faire greene and large Plaine containing about threescore acres of ground or rather more a little Well also of fresh water springing out of a stony Rocke In the foresaid gullet or passage which a man shall have much adoe to ascend up unto standeth a stately and Princelike Towre and beneath the said passage beginneth the City or Towre spreading two sides South and North but having the sore part Westward and verily it is fensed afront with a wall of the owne but on the East fortified with the rocke of the Castle and both the sides thereof are watered with the Sea This place William Le Grosse Earle of Aulbemarle and Holdernesse viewing well and seeing it to bee a convenient plot for to build a Castle upon helping Nature forward with a very costly worke closed the whole plaine of the Rocke with a Wall and built a Towre in the very streight of the passage which being in processe of time fallen downe King Henry the Second caused to bee built in the same place a great and goodly Castle after hee had now brought under the Nobles of England who during the loose government of King Stephen had consumed the lands of the Crowne but especially amongst others that William abovesaid of Aulbemarle who had in this Tract ruled and reigned like a King and possessed himselfe of this place as his owne Touching the most project boldnesse of Thomas Stafford who to the end hee might overthrow himselfe with great attempts with a few Frenchmen surprised this Castle of a sudden in Queene Maries Raigne and held it for two daies together I neede not to speake ne yet of Sherleis a Gentleman of France who having accompanied him was judicially endited and convict of high treason albeit he was a forrainer because hee had done against
an Attourney a Receiver a Clerke of the Court sixe Assistants a Messenger two Auditors 23. Receivers and three Supervisors c. There are counted in this shire beside very many Chappels Parishes 36. and no more but those wonderfull populous and which for multitude of inhabitants farre exceed the greatest parishes elsewhere WESTMORLANDIAE Comitatus qui olim Spectaint ad BRIGANTAS WEST-MOR-LAND BEYOND the furthest part of Lancashire more Northward lieth another lesser countrey of the Brigantes called by late Latine writers Westmaria and Westmorlandia in our tongue west-more-West-more-land and of some later Latine writers Westmoria bounded on the West and North side with Cumberland on the East with Yorke-shire and the Bishopricke of Durham Which because it lyeth all of it among moores and high hilles reaching one to another for our Apennine waxeth here broader and broader still as it runneth and was for the most part un-manured came by this name in our language For such barren places which cannot easily by the painfull labour of the husbandman bee brought to fruitfulnesse the Northren Englishmen call Moores and west-more-West-more-land is nothing else with us but A westerne moorish country Let that dreame therefore as touching King Marius bee excluded out of the schoole of reverend antiquity who forsooth as our Chroniclers have dreamed subdued the Picts and called this countrey after his owne name The more Southerly part of this shire contained in a narrow roome betweene the river Lone and Winander mere is reputed fruitfull enough in the vallies although it can shew many felles with rough and stony rockes lying ever bare without grasse and is all tearmed by one name The Barony of Kendale and Candale that is The Dale by Can for it took name of the river Can which running rough upon stones cutteth through it On the west banke whereof standeth Kandale or Kendale called also Kirke by Kandale a towne of very great trade and resort with two broad and long streets crossing the one over the other and a place for excellent clothing and for industry so surpassing that in regard thereof it carrieth a great name For the inhabitants have great trafficke and vent of their woollen clothes throughout all parts of England They count it also much for their credit that it hath dignified Barons and Earles with the title thereof As for their Barons they were the offspring of Iuo Taleboys of whose race William by consent of King Henry the second called himselfe William of Lancaster whose Niece and heire was wedded unto Gilbert the sonne of Roger Fitz-Reinfrid by whose daughters after her sonne William was dead the inheritance went to Peter Brus Lord of Skelton the second of that forename and unto William Lindesay from whom by the mothers side as we learne out of the Lieger book of Fornesse Abbey Ingelram Lord of Coucy in France fetched his descent By which Peter Brus his daughter the sister and heire of Peter Brus the third came this Barony to the Rosses of Werke and from them by right of inheritance this possession was devolved upon the Parres of whom Sir William Par was made Lord Par by King Henry the eighth As for the Castle the ancient seat of these Lords standing over against the towne it runneth to decay through age and neglect As for Earles of Kendale there have beene three in number John Duke of Bedford advanced to that honour by his brother King Henry the fifth John Duke of Somerset and John de Foix of that most noble and honorable family of the Foix in France whom King Henry the sixth for his faithfull service in the French warres had preferred to that dignity Whence perhaps it is that some of this house of Foix in France retain the name still of Candale As for any glory else of antiquity Kendall to my knowledge challengeth none And yet I was once of opinion that it was CONCANGII a station place sometimes of the Romanes but time hath now instructed mee better Somewhat beneath in the river Can are two Catadupae or water falls where the waters have a downefall with a mighty noise the one is by Levens a little village the other more Southward neere to Betham which to the neighbour inhabitants are as good as true prognostications for when that which standeth North from them soundeth more cleere and aloud in their eares they looke certainely for faire weather when that on the South side doth the same they expect no other than showers of raine and foggy mists Thus much for the South and narrower part of this region which Westward is bounded with the river Winster and the spatious Lake Winander-mere whereof I spake erewhile and Eastward with the river Lone or Lune At the upper corner of Winander-mere lieth the dead carcasse as one would say of an ancient City with great ruines of walls and many heapes of rubbish one from another remaining of buildings without the walls yet to bee seene The fortresse thereof was somewhat long fensed with a ditch and rampire for it tooke up in length 132. Ells and in bredth 80. That it had beene the Romans worke is evident by the British brickes by the mortar tempered with little peeces of bricke among by small earthen pots or pitchers by small cruets or vials of glasse by peeces of Roman money oftentimes there found and by round stones as much as milstones or quernstones of which layed and couched together they framed in old time their columnes and by the paved high waies leading unto it Now the ancient name thereof is gone unlesse a man would ghesse at it and thinke it were that AMBOGLANA whereof the booke of Notices maketh mention seeing at this day it is called Ambleside On the East side the river Lone serveth for a limit and after his name the tract lying about it is called Lonsdale the principall towne whereof is Kirkby Lonsdale whither all the people round about repaire to Church and mercate Above the Spring-head of Lone the countrey spreadeth broader and the hills shoot out with many turnings betweene which there lye some vallies marvellous steepe and deepe withall with many hollow places in manner of caves Among these hills that notable river Eden which Ptolomee calleth ITUNA shewing his head first in Yorkshire carrying a small and faint streame in the beginning but afterwards growing by little and little bigger with sundry beckes still augmenting it seeketh a way Northwest by Pendragon Castle which hath nothing left unto it unconsumed by time besides the bare name and an heape of stones From thence hee passeth by Wharton Hall the seat of the Barons Wharton of whom the first was Sir Thomas Wharton advanced to that dignity by King Henry the Eighth whom succeeded his sonne of the same name and after him Philip that now liveth the third Baron a right honourable person Afterwards it runneth downe by Kirkby Stephen a mercate towne well knowne and both the Musgraves two little villages
tongue the Isle of Masses hereby may bee remembred when as it was a most famous Abbey of the order of Saint Augustin founded by the Earle of Strathern about the yeere 1200. When Ern hath joined his water with Tau in one streame so that Tau is now become more spatious hee looketh up to Aberneth seated upon his banke the royall seat in old time of the Picts and a well peopled Citie which as we read in an ancient fragment Nectane King of the Picts gave unto God and S. Brigide untill the day of Doom together with the bounds thereof which lye from a stone in Abertrent unto a stone nigh to Carfull that is Loghfoll and from thence as farre as to Ethan But long after it became the possession of the Douglasses Earles of Anguse who are called Lords of Aberneth and there some of them lye enterred The first Earle of Strathern that I read of was Malisse who in the time of King Henrie the third of England married one of the heires of Robert Muschamp a potent Baron of England Long afterward Robert Stewart in the yeere 1380. Then David a younger sonne of King Robert the second whose onely daughter given in marriage to Patricke Graham begat Mailise or Melisse Graham from whom King James the first tooke away the Earledome as escheated after that he understood out of the Records of the Kingdome that it was given unto his mothers grandfather and the heires males of his bodie This territorie as also that of Menteith adjoining the Barons Dromund governe hereditarily by Seneschals authority as their Stewarties Menteith hath the name of Teith a river which also they call Taich and thereof this little province they tearme in Latin Taichia upon the banke of which lieth the Bishopricke of Dunblan which King David the first of that name erected At Kirkbird that is Saint Brigids Church the Earles of Menteith have their principall house or Honour as also the Earles of Montrosse comming from the same stocke at Kin-Kardin not farre off This Menteith reacheth as I have heard unto the mountaines that enclose the East side of the Logh or Lake Lomund The ancient Earles of Menteith were of the family of Cumen which in times past being the most spred mightiest house of all Scotland was ruinated with the over-weight and sway thereof but the latter Earles were of the Grahams line ever since that Sir Mailise Graham attained to the honour of an Earle ARGATHELIA OR ARGILE BEyond the Lake Lomund and the West part of Lennox there spreadeth it selfe neere unto Dunbriton Forth the large countrey called Argathelia Argadia in Latin but commonly ARGILE more truely Argathel and Ar-Gwithil that is Neere unto the Irish or as old writings have it The edge or border of Ireland For it lyeth toward Ireland the inhabitants whereof the Britans tearme Gwithil and Gaothel The countrey runneth out in length and breadth all mangled with fishfull pooles and in some places with rising mountaines very commodious for feeding of cattell in which also there range up and downe wilde kine and red Deere but along the shore it is more unpleasant in sight what with rockes and what with blackish barraine mountaines In this part as Bede writeth Britain received after the Britans and Picts a third nation of Scots in that countrey where the Picts inhabited who comming out of Ireland under the leading of Reuda either through friendship or by dint of sword planted here their seat amongst them which they still hold Of which their leader they are to this very day called Dalreudini for in their language Dal signifieth a part And a little after Ireland saith hee is the proper Countrey of the Scots for being departed out of it they added unto the Britans and Picts a third nation in Britaine And there is a very great Bay or arme of the sea that in old time severed the nation of the Britans from the Picts which from the West breaketh a great way into the land where standeth the strongest Citie of all the Britans even to this day called Alchith In the North part of which Bay the Scots aforesaid when they came got themselves a place to inhabite Of that name Dalreudin no remaines at all to my knowledge are now extant neither finde wee any thing thereof in Writers unlesse it bee the same that Dalrieta For in an old Pamphlet touching the division of Albanie wee read of one Kinnadie who for certaine was a King of Scots and subdued the Picts these very words Kinnadie two yeeres before hee came into Pictavia for so it calleth the countrey of the Picts entred upon the Kingdome of Dalrieta Also in an historie of later time there is mention made of Dalrea in some place of this tract where King Robert Brus fought a field unfortunately That Justice should be ministred unto this Province by Justices Itinerant at Perth whensoever it pleased the King King James the fourth by authoritie of the States of the Kingdome enacted a law But the Earles themselves have in some cases their roialties as being men of very great command and authoritie followed with a mightie traine of retainers and dependants who derive their race from the ancient Princes and Potentates of Argile by an infinite descent of Ancestours and from their castle Cambell tooke their surname but the honour and title of Earle was given unto them by King James the second who as it is recorded invested Colin Lord Cambell Earle of Argile in regard of his owne vertue and the worth of his family Whose heires and successours standing in the gracious favour of the Kings have bin Lords of Lorn and a good while Generall Justices of the Kingdome of Scotland or as they use to speake Iustices ordained in Generall and Great Masters of the Kings royall household CANTIRE LOgh Fin a lake breeding such store of herrings at a certaine due season as it is wonderfull severeth Argile from a Promontorie which for thirtie miles together growing still toward a sharpe point thrusteth it selfe forth with so great a desire toward Ireland betwixt which and it there is a narrow sea scarce thirteene miles over as if it would conjoine it selfe Ptolomee termeth this the Promontorie EPIDIORUM betweene which name and the Islands EBUDAE lying over against it there is in my conceit some affinitie At this day it is called in the Irish tongue which they speake in all this tract CAN-TYRE that is The lands Head inhabited by the Mac-Conells a family that here swayeth much howbeit at the pleasure and dispose of the Earle of Argile yea and otherwhiles they make out their light pinnaces and gallies for Ireland to raise booties and pillage who also hold in possession those little provinces of Ireland which they call Glines and Rowts This Promontorie lyeth annexed to Knapdale by so thin a necke as being scarce a mile broad and the same all sandie that the mariners finde it the neerer
dwelling place of the Earle of Twomond tooke denomination as also the whole tract of it called the county of Clare The places of greater note and name than the rest are Kilfennerag and Killaloe or Laon the Bishops seat This in the Roman Provinciall is tearmed Episcopatus Ladensis where there stands a rocke in the mid channell of the river Shannon from which the water rusheth downe a maine with a great fall and noise and by standing thus in the way as a bar hindreth the river that it can carry vessels no further which if it were cut down or a draine made about it the river were able to bring up vessels much higher to the great commodity of all the neighbour inhabitants Not far from the banke of Shannon is seated Bunraty for which Sir Robert Muscegros obtained from King Henry the third the liber●ie of a Mercate and Faire and when he had fortified it with a castle gave it at length unto King Edward the first who granted both this towne and the whole territory unto Richard Clare aforesaid And seven miles from thence appeareth Clare the principall towne at a Creeke flowing up out of Shannon full of Islands and these twaine are the onely mercate townes here and those but small ones Most of the English who were in times past brought hither to inhabite are either rooted out or become degenerate and growne Irish but they who carry the whole sway here at this day be of the Irish blood as Mac-Nemors Mac-Mahon O-loughton and the mightiest by far of all other the O-Briens descended from the ancient Potentates or Kings of Conaght or as themselves give it forth from the Monarchs of Ireland Of these Morogh O-Brien was the first Earle of Twomond created by King Henry the eighth for terme of life and after him to Donough his brothers sonne and his heires who at the same time being made Baron of Ibarcan succeeded in the Earldome and was slain by his brother Sir Donel O-Brien Connagher O-Brien Donaghs son was the third Earle and father to Donaugh now the fourth Earle who hath shewed singular good proofe of his faithfull loialty and courageous valour unto his Prince and countrey in most dangerous times to his singular commendation THE COUNTY OF GALLWAY THe county of GALLWAY meereth South upon Clare West upon the Ocean North upon the county Maio and East upon the river Shannon A land very thankefull unto the industrious husbandman and no lesse profitable unto the Shepheard The West shore endented in with small in-lets and out-lets or armes of the sea hath a border all along of greene Ilands and rugged rockes set orderly as it were in a row among which foure Ilands called Arran make a Barony and many a foolish fable goes of them as if they were the Ilands of the living wherein none doe dye also Inis Ceath well knowne in times past by reason of the Monastery of Colman a devout Saint founded for Scots and Englishmen and Inis-Bouind which Bede interpreteth out of the Scottish tongue to signifie The Isle of white Heifers whereas it is a meere British word But the Englishmen soone forsooke the Monastery when the Scots and they could not well agree together Further within lieth a Lake called Logh-Corbes where Ptolomee placeth the river AUSOBA spreading out twenty miles or thereabout in length and three or foure in bredth being navigable and garnished with 300. petty Ilands full of grasse and bearing Pine-trees which Lake when it reacheth neere the sea growing narrow into a river runneth under Gallway in the Irish tongue Galliue named so or else I cannot tell of the Gallaeci in Spaine the very principall city of this Province and which would thinke hardly to be reckoned the third in Ireland Surely a very proper and faire City it is built almost round and in manner tower-like of entry and some stone and hath beside to set it out a Bishops See and withall through the benefit of the haven and rode abovesaid under it being well frequented with merchants hath easie and gainfull trafficke by exchange of rich commodities both by sea and land Not full foure miles from hence standeth Knoc-toe that is the hill of Axes under which that noble Girald Fitz-Girald Earle of Kildare and by times for the space of three and thirty yeeres Lord Deputie of Ireland discomfited and put to flight after a bloody overthrow the greatest rabble of rebels that ever was seen before in Ireland raised and gathered together by William Burk O-Bren Mac-Nomare and O-Carrall Not farre from hence Eastward standeth Aterith in which remaine some footings of the name of AUTERI commonly called Athenry enclosed round about with a wall of great circuit but slenderly inhabited It glorieth much of that warlike Baron thereof Iohn de Birmingham an Englishman out of which family the Earle of Louth descended but these Birminghams of Aterith being now as it were degenerate into barbarous Irishry scarce acknowledge themselves to have beene English originally The septs or kinreds of the Irish here that be of the better sort are O Kelleis O Maiden O Flairts Mac Dervis c. Clan-Ricard that is The sonnes kinred or Tube of Richard or the land of Richards sonnes confineth upon these and lieth to this county The name it tooke after the Irish manner from one Richard of an English family called de Burgh that became afterwards of most high renowne and name in this tract and out of which King Henry the eighth created Ulick Burgh Earle of Clan-Ricard whose eldest sonne carrieth the title of Baron Dun-Kellin His sonne Richard was the second Earle whose children begotten of sundry wives stirred up many troubles to the griefe of their father the overthrow of their owne country and themselves After Richard who died an old man succeeded his sonne Ulick the third Earle and father to Richard the fourth Earle now living whose fast fidelity and singular fortitude hath to his great praise evidently appeared when the English and their whole estates in Ireland were in greatest danger In this territory is the Archbishops See of Toam unto which in old time many Bishops were subject but at this day the Bishopricks of Anagchony Duae and Maio are annexed unto it The Bishoprick likewise of Kilmacough which in the old Provinciall unlesse the name be corrupt is not mentioned as also of Clonfert are seated in this part and as I have heard united to the See of Toam THE COUNTY OF MAIO THe county Maio on which the Westerne Ocean beateth lies bounded South with the county of Galway East with the county Roscoman and North with the county of Slego A fertile country and a pleasant abundantly rich in cattell Deere Hawkes and plenty of hony taking the name of Maio a little city with a Bishops See in it which in the Roman Provinciall is called Mageo But that Episcopall seat is now annexed to the Metropolitane of
the mendicant Friers as detesting in Christians such voluntary begging Neere to Armach upon a rising hill remain the reliques of an old castle Owen-Maugh they call it which was as they say the ancient habitation of the Kings of Ulster More East glideth the Black-water in the Irish tongue More that is Great which is the limit betweene this shire and Tir-Oen whereof I am to speak in due place In this country and about it Mac-Genis O Hanlan O Hagan and many of the sept of O-Neal assuming unto them sundry additions and by-names carry all the sway after a sort and over-rule the rest THE COUNTY OF DOWNE EAstward now followeth the county of DOWNE and that very large and fertile in soile stretched out even as farre as to the Irish sea reaching on the North side to the Lake Eaugh by a new name called Logh Sidney and on the South to the county of Louth from which the river Newry severeth it Upon this river in the very first entrance into this shire within our remembrance Sir Nicolas Bagnall Mareschall of Ireland who by his conduct atchieved here divers exploits and reduced the country to more civility built and fortified a towne of the same name Hard by it the river called Banthelesse issuing out of the desert mountaines of Mourne passeth through the country of Eaugh which belongeth to the family of Mac Gynnis Betweene whom and the O Neals who tyrannized in Ulster there fell in times past a controversie whether they were vassals to O Neal and whether they should find their followers and souldiers victuals c. this kind of service they call Bonoghty This hath unto it an Episcopall See at Dromore above which at the edge of Logh Eaugh are the tracts of Kilwlto and Kilwarny much encombred with woods and bogges These lye inwardly but by the maritime coast the sea doth so wind it selfe in and with sundry Creeks and Bayes encroach within the land yea and the Logh and Lake dilateth it selfe beside Dyffrin a valley full of woods the inheritance in old time of the Mandevils afterwards of the Whites in such sort that it maketh two bilands Lecall Southward and Ardes Northward Lecall a rich and battle ground beareth out farthest into the East of any part of Ireland and is the utmost Promontory or cape thereof which the Mariners now terme Saint Iohns Foreland Ptolomee calleth it ISANIUM perhaps of the British word Isa which signifieth Lowest In the very streight whereof flourished DUNUM whereof Ptolomee also made mention though not in the right place now named Down a towne of very great antiquity and a Bishops See renowned by the tombe of Saint Patricke Saint Brigid and Saint Columb upon which was written this rude riming distichon Hi tres in Duno tumulo tumulantur in uno Brigida Patricius atque Columba pius At Doun these three lie buried in one tombe Brigid Patricke and that devout Columb Which monument of theirs as the bruit runneth was demolished by the Lord Leonard Grey Deputy under King Henrie the eighth and sure it is that when he was arraigned for misgoverning and condemned therefore to death among other imputations he was charged that he had profaned this Cathedrall Church of Saint Patricke But as touching the Sepulcher of Saint Patricke the religious Priests were at variance like as the Cities of Greece in times past strove about the native country of the Poet Homer These of Downe challenge it to themselves and that upon the authoritie of the verses aforesaid Those of Armagh put in their claime out of the words of Saint Bernard which erewhile I alledged The Monkes of Glastenbury in England averred it to be with them and that out of the old Records and Evidences of their Abbey and some Scots have likewise avouched that as he was borne neere unto Glasco so likewise he was enterred there at Kirk-Patrick Into this Down Sir Iohn Curcy that Martiall Englishman and for a Warrior extraordinarily devout to Godward after hee had brought this country in subjection unto him was the first that brought in the Benedictine Monkes and he translated the Monasterie of Cariche which Mac Neal Mac Eulef King of Ulster had founded in Erinaich neere unto S. Finins Fountaine into the Isle called after his name Ynis-Curcy and endowed the same with lands assigned for it For before time the Monkes of Ireland as those of ancient times in Egypt whose maner and order that devour man Congell that is by interpretation A faire pledge brought over into Ireland being wholly given to prayer earned for themselves and the poore their living with the labour of their own hands Howbeit these Monasticall orders and customes as all humane things continued not long when their maners and carriage grew to be worse and riches had by little and little polluted piety which as a mother had formerly bred them Robert Abbat of Molisime in Burgundie studied and endevoured earnestly in times past to reduce and set on foot againe the said ancient Discipline and perswaded his owne Disciples to live with their handy labour to leave Tithes and Oblations unto the Priests that served in the Diocesse to forbeare wearing of Breeches made of woven cloth or of leather But they labouring to the contrary refused flatly to goe from the customes observed in the Monasteries of the West parts of the world which were knowne for certaine to have been instituted and ordained by Saint Maure scholar to Saint Benet and by Saint Columban But I have digressed too farre now will I returne againe By the sea-side stand Arglas where Saint Patrick by report founded a Church and Strangford called in old time Strandford a safe harbour where the river Coyn with a great and violent streame breaketh into the Sea Neere unto which in the Biland Lecale Queene Mary in her great bounty unto Noblemen liberally gave lands unto the Earle of Kildare And here of the English race the Russells Audleys Whites and the Bagnells who came thither last stoutly defend among the wild and fierce Irish not without danger what they and their ancestours won in these parts Ardes the other Biland called The Andes lieth over against to the North severed with a small chanell out of the Logh-Coin which on the West side encloseth it like as the sea on the East side and the Bay of Knoc-Fergus on the North. You may resemble it to the bent of the arme which by a very narrow Isthim or necke of land groweth to the rest of the Iland like as an arme to the shoulder The soile is every where passing good and bountifull but only in the mids where lieth out for twelve miles or thereabout in length a moist flat and boggy plaine The shore is sufficiently bespred with small villages and in times past had a most renowned Monasterie at the Bay of Knoc-Fergus of the same institution order and name as was that right ancient and famous Abbey in England neere unto Chester I
Lievtenant there 300. markes and the Parliament was adjourned eftsoones unto the munday after St. Ambrose day Then rumours resounded that the Lord Thomas Fitz-Iohn Earle of Desmund died at Paris on St. Laurence feast day and was buried there at the Friers Preachers covent the King of England being present at his funerals After whom succeeded in that Seigniorie James Fitz-Gerald his Unkle by the fathers side who had three times thrust him out of his patrimonie and laid an imputation upon him that he was a prodigall spend-thrift and had wasted his patrimony both in Ireland and England and that he gave or would give lands to the Abbey of St. Iames at Kernisham 1421. The Parliament began upon prorogation the third time at Dublin the munday after the feast of S. Ambrose and there certain persons were ordained to be sent in message to the King as touching the redresse of the land namely the Archbishop of Armagh and Sir Christopher Preston Knight At the same time Richard O-Hedian Bishop of Cassell was accused by John Gese Bishop of Lismore and Waterford upon thirtie Articles laid to his charge After all that hee charged him that hee made very much of the Irish and loved none of the English that hee bestowed no benefice upon any Englishman and gave order likewise unto other Bishops that they should not conferre the least living that was upon them Item that hee counterfeited the King of Englands seale and the Kings letters patents that he went about to make himselfe King of Mounster also that he tooke a ring away from the image of S. Patrick which the Earle of Desmund had offered and bestowed it upon an harlot of his beside many other enormities which he exhibited in writing And the Lords and Commons were much troubled betweene these twaine Now in the same Parliament there was debate between Adam Pay Bishop of Clon and another Prelate for that the said Adam went about to unite the others Church unto his but the other would not and so they were sent and referred unto the Court of Rome and this Parliament lasted 18. daies In the Nones of May there was a slaughter committed by O-Mordris upon the family or retinue of the Earle of Ormund Lievtenant neere unto the Monastery of Leys where were slaine of the English 27. The principall parties were Purcell and Grant Then Gentlemen of good birth were taken prisoners and 200. fled unto the foresaid Monastery and so were saved In the Ides of May died Sir Iohn Bodley Knight and Geffery Galon sometime Maior of Dublin and was buried in the house of the preaching Friers of the same City About this time Mac-Mahon an Irishman played the divell in Urgal wasting and burning where ever he went The seventh of Iune the Lievtenant entred into the country to wit of Leys against O-Mordis and led thither a most puissant army having the killing of his enemies for foure daies together and untill the Irish promised all peace and quietnesse Upon the feast of Michael the Archangel Thomas Stanley accompanied with all the Knights and Squires of Meth and Iriel took Moyle O-Downyll prisoner and slew others in the 14. yeere of King Henry the sixth his reigne Thus far forth were continued the Annales of Ireland which came to my hands and upon which I have bestowed these few pages to gratifie them that may delight therein As for the nice and dainty readers who would have all writings tried to the touch of Augustus his dayes I know they can yeeld no pleasing rellish to them in regard of the harsh words and the saplesse dry stile familiar unto that age wherein they were penned Neverthelesse I would have those to remember That HISTORIE both beareth brooketh and requireth the Authors of all ages Also That they are to look as well for reall and substantiall knowledge from some as for the verball and literall learning from others THE SMALLER ILANDS IN THE BRITISH OCEAN NOw will I at length waigh anchor and set saile out of Ireland and lanching forth take survey of the Ilands scattered here and there along the coasts of Britaine If I durst repose any trust in my selfe or if I were of any sufficiencie I would shape my course to every one But sith it is my purpose to discover and inlighten Antiquity such as are obscure and of lesse account I will lightly coast by and those that carry any ancient name and reckoning above the rest I will enter and visite yea and make some short stay in them that now at last in a good and happy houre they may recover their ancienty againe And that in this voiage I may at first set out orderly and take a straight and direct course I will to begin saile out of Ireland into the Severn sea and by the Irish sea after I have doubled the utmost point of Scotland follow my course down into the Germai● Ocean and so from thence through the British sea which extendeth as far as to Spaine hold on my race as prosperously as I can But I am afraid lest this my ship of Antiquity steared by me so unskilfull a Pilot either run and be split upon the rockes of errours or else be overwhelmed with the waves of ignorance yet venter I must 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 saith Antiphilus 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Adventure is a good sea Captain and he that saileth the same voiage a second time may haply speed much better and finish his desired course First and formost because it seemeth not impertinent to my matter I will set down what Plutarch out of a fabulous narration of Demetrius who seemeth to have lived in Hadrians time reporteth generally as touching the Ilands lying neer to Britain Demetrius made report that most of those Ilands which coast upon Britain lie desert desolate and scattering here and there whereof somewere dedicated to the Daemones and Heroes also that himself by commission from the Emperour sailed toward one that was neerest of those desert Iles for to know and discover somewhat the which he found to have in a few inhabitants and those he understood were reputed by the Britans sacred and inviolable Within a while after he was landed there the aire and weather as he said became foully troubled many portenteous signes were given by terrible tempests with extra-ordinary stormes flashing and violent lightnings and fiery impressions which after they were appeased the Ilanders certified him that some one of great eminency was dead And a little after Now he said moreover that there was a certain Iland there wherein Saturn was by Briareus closed up and kept in prison sound asleep for sleep was the means to hold him captive about whose person there were many Daemones at his feet that stood attending as servitours Thus they took pleasure in old time as now also at this day boldly to devise strange wonders and tales of places far remote in a certain secure veine of lying as it were by authoritie In the narrow sea
their great charges sought there of late for Alum More Northward lieth that Mona whereof Caesar maketh mention in the mids of the cur as he saith betweene Britaine and Ireland Ptolomee termeth it MONOEDA as one would say Mon-eitha that is if I may be allowed to conjecture The more remote Mona to put a difference betweene it and the other Mona that is Anglesey Plinie MONABIA Orosius MENAVIA and Bede Menavia secunda that is the second Menavia where he termeth Mona or Anglesey Menavia prior that is the former Menavia and calleth them both Ilands of the Britans in which writers notwithstanding it is read amisse Mevania Ninius who also goeth abroad under the name of Gildas nameth it Eubonia and Manaw the Britans Menow the inhabitants Maning and we Englishmen The Yle of Man stretched out just in the mid levell as saith Girald Cambrensis betweene the Northren coasts of Ireland and Britaine about which Isle and namely to whether of the two countries it ought of right to appertaine there arose no small doubt among those in ancient times At length the controversie was taken up in this manner For as much as this land fostered venemous wormes brought over hither for triall adjudged it was by a common censure and doome to lye unto Britain Howbeit the inhabitants both in language and manners come nighest unto the Irish yet so as they therewith savour somewhat of the qualities of the Norvegians It lieth out in length from North to South much about thirty Italian miles but reacheth in bredth where it is widest scarce above fifteene miles and where it is narrowest eight In Bedes dayes it contained in it three hundred families like as Anglesey 96. but now it numbreth seventeene Parish Churches Flaxe and hempe it beareth abundantly it hath fresh pastures and fields by good manuring plenteous of Barley and Wheat but of Oates especially whence it is that the people there eate most of all Oaten bread Store of cattell every where and mighty flockes of sheepe but both their sheepe and other cattell also bee smaller of body there like as in Ireland neighbouring upon it than in England and nothing so faire headed And considering it hath few or no woods at all they use for fewell a kind of clammy turfe which as they are digging out of the earth they light many times upon trees buried under the ground In the middest it riseth up with hils standing thick the highest whereof is Sceafull from whence a man may see on a cleere and faire day Scotland England and Ireland Their chiefe towne they count Russin situate on the South-side which of a castle wherein lieth a Garison is commonly called Castle-Towne where within a little Iland Pope Gregory the fourteenth instituted an Episcopall See the Bishop whereof named Sodorensis of this very Iland as it is thought had jurisdiction in times past over all the Ilands West Irish Iles or Hebrides but exerciseth it now onely upon that Iland and is himselfe under the Archbishop of Yorke Howbeit he hath no place nor voice in the assembly of the States of England in Court of Parliament Duglasse is the best peopled towne and of greatest resort because the haven is commodious and hath a most easie entrance unto which the Frenchmen and other forrainers use to repaire with their bay-salt having trafficke with the Ilanders and buying of them againe leather course wooll and poudred beefe But on the South side of the I le stand Bala-Curi where the Bishop for the most part is resiant and the Pyle a Block-house standing in a little Iland where also there are souldiers in garison Also before the very South point there lyeth a prety Iland called the Calfe of Man wherein are exceeding great store of sea-foule called Puffins and of those duckes and drakes which breeding of rotten-wood as they say the Englishmen call Bernacles the Scots Clakes and Soland geese That which here followeth I will set downe out of a letter which that learned and reverend father in God John Meryk Bishop of this I le wrote unto me This Iland for cattell for fish yea and for corne rather through mens industry than by any goodnesse of the ground hath not only sufficient for it selfe but also good store to send into other countries Yet happier it was for the government thereof as being defended from neighbour enemies by souldiers prest and ready at the expences of the Earle of Darby upon which he employed the greatest part of his yeerely revenue in this Isle All controversies are decided without writings or any charges by certaine Iudges whom they chuse from among themselves and call Deemsters For the Magistrate taketh up a stone and when he hath given it his mark delivereth it unto the plaintiffe who by vertue thereof citeth his adversary and witnesses If there fall out any doubtfull case of greater importance it is referred to twelve men whom they terme The Keyes of the Iland It hath certain Coroners and those they call Annos who stand in stead of Sheriffes and execute their office The Ecclesiasticall Judge doth cite persons and determine causes within eight dayes they stand to his award or they are clapt up in prison They had as I have heard say as a peculiar language of their own so also their peculiar lawes which are signes of a peculiar seigniory Their Ecclesiasticall lawes next after this Canon Law come neerest unto the Civill Upon any Iudge or Clerks of the Court for making of Processe or drawing Instruments the people never bestow so much as one penny As for that which English Writers report of mischiefes done by witchcraft and sorcery it is meere false They that are of the wealthier sort and hold faire possessions and for their good houskeeping and honest cariage are conformable to imitate the people of Lancaster The women whither soever they go out of their doores gird themselves about as mindfull of their mortality with the winding sheet that they purpose to be buried in Such of them as are by law condemned to die are sewed within a sack flung from a rock into the sea They are all of them in this Isle as far from the customary practice of theeving or begging from doore to doore as may be wonderfull religious and most ready every one to entertain the forme of the English Church The disorders as well Civill as Ecclesiasticall of their neighbour nations they detest and whereas the whole Isle is divided into two parts South and North this in common speech resembleth the Scottish the other the Irish. Haply it were worth my labour if I should here insert a little History of this Iland which truth of due demandeth at my hands that so I may keepe alive and in remembrance still the Acts heretofore atchieved which if they bee not buried yet are waxen old and have as it were one foot in the grave of oblivion That the Britans held this Iland as they did all Britaine it is confessed
Comet or blazing star appeared The same yeere there was a field fought between those of the Isle of Man at S●antwas and the Northren men got the victorie In which battell were slaine Earle Oiher and Mac-Moras Generals of both the sides In the same yeere Magnus King of Norway the son of Olave son of Harald Harfager desirous to try whether the corps of S. Olave King and Martyr remained uncorrupt commanded that his tombe should be opened and notwithstanding the Bishop and Clergy withstood it the King himselfe came boldly thither and by force that he brought with him caused the coffin to be opened Now when he had both seene and handled the body uncorrupt and nothing perished sodainly there was a great feare fell upon him and in all haste he departed thence The next night following Olave King and Martyr appeared unto him in a dreame saying thus Chuse thou one of these two things either to lose thy life and kingdome both within thirty daies or to depart from Norway and never see it againe When the King awakened he called unto him his Princes and Elders and declared unto them his dreame and vision and they being sore affraid gave him this counsell to depart with all speed out of Norway He without delay caused a fleet to be rigged and put in readinesse of an hundred and threescore saile and cutteth over to the Isles of Orkney which he forthwith subdued making way by dint of sword thorowout all the Iles and bringing them to his subjection went forward still as far as to Man and when he was arrived and landed he came unto St. Patrickes Isle to see the place wherein the field had beene fought a little before betweene the Manksmen because as yet many of their bodies that were slaine lay there unburied Now when he saw this most goodly and beautifull Iland it pleased his eye and he chose it to seat himselfe therein built fortresses in it which unto this day carry his name And those of Galway he held in so great awe that he compelled them to cut downe wood for timber and to bring it unto the shore that therewith he might build his Forts and Bulwarkes To Anglesey then called Mona an Iland in Wales hee sailed and found in it two Earles by the name of Hughes the one he slew the other he put to flight and subdued the Iland But the Welshmen presented him with many gifts and so he bad them farwell and returned unto Man Unto Murcard King of Ireland he sent his shooes and commanded him to carry them on his shoulders through the middest of his house on Christmas day that he might thereby understand he was subject unto King Magnus Which the Irishmen as soone as they heard of it took grievously and disdained exceeding much But the King following a wiser course I had rather saith he not onely carry his shooes but also eat them than King Magnus should destroy one Province in Ireland Hee fulfilled therefore his commandement and honourably entreated his messengers Many presents also hee sent over by them unto King Magnus and entred into league with him These messengers being returned unto their Lord related unto him many things touching the situation of Ireland the pleasantnesse thereof the abundance of corne and wholsomnesse of aire When Magnus heard this straightwaies he thought of nothing else but to conquer Ireland and bring it wholly under his dominion He commanded therefore his men to prepare a navie and himselfe in person setting forward with sixteene ships desirous to take a view of the countrey as he unwarily departed aside from his shipping was suddenly compassed about by the Irish and so lost his life together with all those in manner that were with him And he was buried hard by S. Patricks Church in Doun Hee reigned sixe yeeres after whose death the Princes of the Ilands sent for Olave the son of Godred surnamed Crovan who lived in the Court of Henry King of England son of King William MCII. Olave the sonne of Godred Crovan aforesaid beganne his reigne and reigned forty yeeres a peaceable Prince having all the Kings of Ireland and Scotland to be his confederates Hee tooke to wife Affrica the daughter of Ferguse of Gallway of whom he begat Gadred By his concubines he had Regnald Lagman and Harald beside many daughters whereof one was wedded to Summerled Prince of Herergaidel who was the cause of the ruine of the whole Kings of the Ilands On her he begat foure sonnes Dulgall Raignald Engus and Olave MCXXXIII There hapned so great an Eclipse of the Sun upon the fourth Nones of August that the day was turned into night MCXXXIV Olave gave unto Yuo Abbat of Furnes a plot of his land in Man to build an Abbay in a place called Russin and both enriched with revenues and endowed with priviledges the estate of the Church in the Ilands MCXLII Godred Olaves son saileth over sea to the King of Norway whose name was Hinge and did his homage unto him and staied there being honourably entertained of him The same yeere three sonnes of Harald Olaves brother who had been brought up in Dublin raising a great number of men together and all those who were fled from the King came to Man demanding of the same King to have the one moity of the whole kingdome of the Ilands to bee given unto them But the King when he had heard their demand being willing to pacifie them answered That hee would take counsell of the matter Now when they had appointed the time and place where the counsell should bee held in the meane while those most leud and wicked villaines complotted among themselves the Kings death At the day appointed both parts met at the haven which is called Ramsa and sat in order by rowes the King with his counsell on the one side and they together with their company on the other and Reginald who was to dispatch him was in the midst between and stood talking apart with one of the Peeres of the land But when the King had called him and he was come unto him he turned toward the King as though hee would salute him and therewith lifting up a glittering axe a great height at one blow cut off the Kings head And forthwith as soone as they had committed such a bloody murder they divided the land among themselves and after some few daies having gathered a navie together failed over to Galway desirous to bring it also under their subjection But those of Galway sticking close and round together gave a faire onset and joined battell with them They by and by turning their backes fled in great disorder to Man And as for all the Galwaymen that dwelt therein some of them they slew others they expelled MCXLIII Godred Olaves son returning out of Norway was created King of Man and to avenge his fathers death he caused two of Haralds sons to have their eies pulled out and slew the third MCXLIV Godred begun his reigne
that hee should be apprehended and brought unto William King of Scotland that with him he might be kept in prison And Olave lay prisoner in irons and chaines almost seven yeeres In the seventh yeere died William King of Scotland after whom succeeded his sonne Alexander Now before his death he gave commandement that all prisoners should be set free Olave therefore being enlarged and at liberty came to Man and soone after accompanied with no small traine of Noblemen he went to S. James and after he was thus returned Reginald his brother caused him to marry a Noble mans daughter of Kentyre even his owne wives whole sister named Lavon and gave him Lodhus in possession to enjoy Some few daies after Reginald Bishop of the Ilands having called a Synod canonically divorced Olave the sonne of Godred and Lavon his wife as being the cousin german of his former wife After this Olave wedded Scristine daughter of Ferkar Earle of Rosse For this cause Reginalds wife Queene of the Ilands was wroth and directed her letters in the name of Reginald the King into the I le Sky unto Godred her sonne that he should kill Olave As Godred was devising meanes to worke this feat and now entring into Lodhus Olave fled in a little cog-boat unto his father in law the Earle of Rosse aforesaid Then Godred wasteth and spoileth Lodhus At the same time Pol the son of Boke Sheriffe of Sky a man of great authority in all the Ilands because he would not give his consent unto Godred fled and together with Olave lived in the Earle of Rosses house and entring into a league with Olave they came both in one ship to Sky At length having sent forth their spies and discoverers they learned that Godred lay in a certain Iland called St. Columbs Ile having very few men with him misdoubting nothing Gathering therefore about them all their friends and acquaintance with such voluntaries as were ready to joine with them at midnight with five shippes which they drew from the next sea-shore distant from the Island aforesaid some two furlongs they beset the Isle round about Godred then and they that were with him rising by the dawning of the day and seeing themselves environed on every side with enemies were astonied but putting themselves in warlike armes assaied right manfully to make resistance but all in vaine For about nine a clocke of the day Olave and Pol the foresaid Sheriffe set foot in the Iland with their whole army having slain all those whom they found without the enclosure of the Church they tooke Godred put out his eyes and gelded him Howbeit to this deed Olave did not yeeld his consent neither could he withstand it for Bokes sonne the Sheriffe aforesaid For this was done in the yeere 1223. The Summer next following Olave after he had taken hostages of all the Lords and potentates of the Isles came with a fleet of 32. saile toward Man and arrived at Rognolfwaht At this very time Reginald and Olave divided the kingdome of the Ilands between themselves and Man was given to Reginald over and beside his owne portion together with the title of King Olave the second time having furnished himselfe with victuals from the people of Man returned with his company to his portion of the Iland The yeere following Reginald taking with him Alane Lord of Galway went with his souldiers of Man to the Iland parts that hee might disseize his brother Olave of that portion of land which hee had given unto him and bring it under his owne dominion But because the Manksmen were not willing to fight against Olave and the Ilanders for the love they had to them Reginald and Alan Lord of Galway returned home without atchieving their purpose After a little while Reginald under pretence of going to the Court of his Soveraigne the Lord King of England tooke up of the people of Man an hundred Markes but went in very deed to the Court of Alan Lord of Galway At the same time he affianced his daughter unto the son of Alan in marriage Which the Manksmen hearing tooke such snuffe and indignation thereat that they sent for Olave and made him their King MCCXXVI Olave recovered his inheritance to wit the kingdome of Man and of the Ilands which his brother Reginald had governed 38. yeeres and reigned quietly two yeeres MCCXXVIII Olave accompanied with all the Nobles of Man and a band of the strongest men of the country sailed over into the Ilands A little after Alan Lord of Galway and Thomas Earle of Athol and King Reginald came unto Man with a puissant army all the South part of Man they wasted spoiled the Churches and slew all the men they could lay hold of so that the South part of Man was laid in manner all desolate After this returned Alan with his army into his owne country and left his bailiffes in Man to gather up for him the tributes of the country But King Olave came upon them at unwares put them to flight and recovered his owne kingdome Then the people of Man which before time had been dispersed every way began to gather themselves together and to dwell with confidence and security In the same yeere came King Reginald out of Galway unlooked for at the dead time of night in winter with five ships and burnt all the shipping of his brother Olave and of the Lords of Man at Saint Patrickes Iland and suing to his brother for peace stayed forty daies at the haven of Ragnoll-wath Meane while he won and drew unto him all the Ilanders in the South part of Man who sware they would venture their lives in his quarrell untill hee were invested in the one halfe of the kingdome On the contrarie part Olave had the Northren men of the Isle to side with him and upon the 14. day of February at a place called Tingualla there was a battell strucke betweene the two brethren wherein Olave had the victorie and King Reginald was by some killed there without his brothers knowledge And certaine rovers comming to the South part of Man wasted and harried it The Monks of Russin translated the body of King Reginald unto the Abbey of S. Mary de Fournes and there enterred it was in a place which himselfe had chosen for that purpose After this went Olave to the King of Norway but before that hee was come thither Haco King of Norway ordained a certaine Noble man named Hu●bac the sonne of Owmund for to bee King of the Sodorian Ilands and called his name Haco Now the same Haco together with Olave and Godred Don Reginalds son and many Norwegians came unto the Ilands and at the winning of a fort in the Iland Both Haco chanced to be smit with a stone whereof he died and lieth buried in Iona. MCCXXX Olave came with Godred Don and the Norwegians to Man and they divided the kingdome among themselves Olave held Man and Godred being gone unto the Ilands was slaine in the
Lord of the kingdome of Scotland But none other answer could he have than this if I may speake the words out of the very authenticall Records Sequatur coram Iustitiariis de Banco Regis c. that is Let him sue before the Iustices of the K. Bench let him be heard and let justice be done But that which he could not obtaine by right Sir William Montacute his kinsman for come he was of the race of the Kings of Man wonne by his sword For with a band of English mustered up in hast he drave all the Scots out of the Iland But being by this warre plunged deeply in debt and not having wherewith to make some paiment thereof he mortgaged it for seven yeeres to Antonie Bec Bishop of Durham and Patriarch of Jerusalem and made over the profits and revenues thereof unto him yea and soone after the King granted it unto the said Antonie for tearme of life Afterwards King Edward the second passed a grant thereof unto his minion Piers Gaveston what time as he created him Earle of Cornwall and when the said Piers was rid out of the way hee gave it unto Henry Beaumont with all the domaine and regall jurisdiction thereto belonging But shortly after the Scots under Robert Brus recovered it and Robert Randulph that right warlike Scot like as a long time after Alexander Duke of Albany used to stile themselves Lords of Man and bare the same coat of Armes as did the later Kings of Man namely three armed legges of a man linked together and bending in the hammes such for all the world as the Isle Sicilia gave the three legges naked in like forme in her coines of money in old time to signifie three Promontories Notwithstanding before time the Kings of Man used for their armes as we have seene in their Seales a ship with the saile hoised up with this title in the circumference Rex Manniae insularum that is King of Man and of the Islands Afterward about the yeere 1340. William Montacute the younger Earle of Salisbury wrested it by strong hand and force of armes from the Scottish who in the yeere of our Lord 1393. as Thomas Walsingham saith sold for a great summe of money Man with the crowne thereof unto William Scrope Who being for high treason beheaded and his goods confiscate it came unto the hands of Henry the fourth King of England who granted this Iland unto Henry Percy Earle of Northumberland as a conqueror triumphing over William Scrope whom he as yet a private person had intercepted and beheaded when he aspired to the crowne with this condition that himselfe and his heires should when the Kings of England were enstalled and crowned carry before them that sword which the said Henry wore by his side what time he came backe againe out of exile into England commonly called Lancaster sword But I think it good to set this down out of the Record in the very words of the K. himself De nostra gratia speciali dedimus that is Of our speciall grace we have given and granted unto Henry Earle of Northumberland the Isle Castle Pile and Seigniory of Man and all the Ilands and Lordships to the said Isle belonging which were Sir William le Scropes Knight now deceased whom in his life time we conquered and have decreed him so to be conquered and which by reason of our conquest of him we tooke into our hand as conquered which conquest verily and decree in our present Parliament with the assent of the Lords Temporall in the same Parliament being as touching the person of the foresaid William and all the lands tenements goods and chattels of his as well within our kingdome as without at the petition of the Communalty of our kingdome stand confirmed c. To have and to hold unto the said Earle and his heires c. by service of carrying at the daies of our coronation and of our heires at the left shoulder and the left shoulder of our heires either by himself or a sufficient and honourable Deputy of his that sword naked which we ware and were girt with when we arrived in the parts of Holdernesse called Lancaster sword c. But in the fifth yeere following the said Henry Percie entred into open rebellion and the King sent Sir Iohn Stanley and William Stanley to seize the Isle and castle of Man the inheritance whereof he granted afterward to Sir Iohn Stanley and his heires by letters Patents with the patronage of the Bishopricke c. And so his heires and successours who were honoured with the title of Earles of Derby were commonly called Kings of Man From Man untill we come to the Mull of Gallaway we meet with none but very small Ilands But after we be once past it in the salt water of GLOTTA or Dunbritton Frith appeareth the Iland GLOTTA whereof Antoninus maketh mention which the Scots now call Arran whereof the Earles of Arran in Scotland were stiled and neighbouring unto it is that which was in times past named Rothesia now Buthe of a sacred Cell which Brendan erected for so they terme a little Cell in Scottish thence come we to Hellan in times past called Hellan Leneaw that is as Iohn Fordon interpreteth it The Isle of Saints and to Hellan Tinoc that is The Isle of Swine and these Ilands are seen in the same Frith or Forth But of these I have spoken before Without this Bay or Frith lye a number of Ilands very thicke together which the Scots themselves that inhabite them call Inch-Gall that is haply The Isles of the Gallicians the English and the rest of the Scots The Western Isles the writers of the former age HEBRIDES but the ancient Ethnickes Bettoricae and Giraldus other where Inchades and Leucades Pliny Solinus and Ptolomee name them EBUDAS HEBUDAS and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which names have some consonant affinity with Epidium the promontory of Britain opposite unto them and an Isle among these so named The reason of the name I cannot picke out unlesse I should thinke they were so called because there groweth here no corne or graine For Solinus writeth that the inhabitants of these Ilands are not acquainted with corne and live onely upon fish and milke and Eb eid in British soundeth as much as without corne The inhabitants as saith the same Solinus have no skill or knowledge of corne they live of fish and milke onely They all have but one King For how many soever they be they are severed one from another by a narrow enterflow of the Sea betweene The King hath nothing that hee may say is his owne all things are common to them all and held hee is to equity by certaine lawes and lest hee should for covetousnesse swarve aside from the truth by his poore estate he learneth justice as who hath no house furniture and provision of his owne but all his maintenance is from the common coffer No woman is he allowed to have in
and flowes againe Suidas writeth that it tooke the name of Thules a King of Aegypt Isidore of the Sunne Reynerus Reneccius of the Saxon word Tell that is A limit as if it were the bound of the North and West But yet for all this Synesius doubteth whether there were any Thule or no and our Giraldus Cambrensis writeth that it is no where extant to be seene and the better sort of learned men are of sundry judgements concerning it Most of them have affirmed Island that is subject to extreme sharpe cold and continuall winter to have beene called in times past Thule But Saxo Grammaticus Crantzius Milius Iovius and Peucerus are of a contrary opinion Neither am I ignorant that the vast and huge country of Scandia is described by Procopius under the name of Thule But if that be true which the most learned Peucer hath recorded in his book entituled De dimensione terrae that is Of the measuring of the earth that sailers call Shetland Thilensel neither dare I empeach his credit then surely wee have found Thule and the matter is now at an end and questionlesse For this Shetland is an Isle under the Scottish dominion environed with other Islets and the same is nipped with frost and chilly cold lying open on every side unto bitter storms the inhabitants whereof like as those of Island use in steed of bread-corne dried fish and the same braied and beaten which we call stock-fish And although it have not the North pole so elevated that there is continuall day sixe moneths together as Pithaeas of Marsils hath fained of Thule for which hee is justly taxed by Strabo and this hapneth not to Island it selfe where there is in manner a continuall Winter and an intolerable settled cold Yet that a man should thinke this Shetland to have been Thule first the situation thereof in Ptolomee may induce him being set 63. degrees from the Aequinoctiall as Thule is in Ptolomee again for that it lieth between Norway and Scotland where Saxo Grammaticus placeth Thule then because it is two daies sailing distant from the point of Caledonia or Cathnes according to which distance Solinus placeth Thule also Tacitus saith that the Romans kenned Thule afar off as they sailed round about Britain by the Orcades lastly because it faceth the shore of Bergae in Norway against which place Thule lieth according to Pomponius Mela in which Author the reading is corruptly Belgarum littori in stead of Bergarum For Bergae a citie in Norway lieth over against Shetland and Pliny nameth in this tract BERGOS which I doubt not but it is that little country wherein BERGAE flourisheth like as no man will deny that Norway is NERIGON specified by Pliny But enough of this Thule which snow and winter weather as one saith hath hidden from the ancient writers and from us too I assure you neither is any of them able to say which of the Northren Ilands they meant when they spake so much of Thule As touching the length of daies in that unknowne Iland Festus Avienus when hee treated of Britaine translated out of Dionysius these verses Long a dehinc celeri si quis rate marmora currat Inveniet vasto surgentem gurgite Thulen Hic cùm plaustra Poli tangit Phaebeius ignis Nocte sub inlustri rota solis fomite flagrat Continuo clarumque diem nox aemula ducit From hence if one with pinnace swift along the sea doth saile Thule above the Ocean vast to finde he shall not faile Here when about the Northren pole the Suns fire doth sejourne The night is lightsome and his wheeles continually doe burne The night I say resembling day faire light makes soone returne Which Pomponius Mela likewise hath noted in these words Opposite unto the coast of Bergae lieth Thule an Iland much renowned both in Greek Poems and in ours also In it for that the Sun riseth and is to set farre off the nights verily are short but in winter time as elsewhere darke in summer light because all that time hee mounteth very high although his body be not seen yet with his neere brightnesse he doth lighten the parts next unto him But about the solstice there be no nights at all by reason that hee being then more apparent not onely casteth bright beames from him but sheweth also the greatest part of himselfe Above these Ilands the sea is tearmed The slow frozen and Icie sea for that it is so rough by occasion of heaps of Ice and scarce navigable It is also named of ancient writers CRONIUM or Cronian sea of Saturne because here in a British Iland as Plutarch recordeth there goeth a tale how Saturne is kept sleeping in a deepe cave or bottome of a golden pumish stone that he is by Jupiter cast into a most deepe and dead sleepe which serveth in stead of bonds that birds bring him Ambrosia the divine meat with the odoriferous smell wherof all the place is perfumed Also that he hath many spirits or daemones attending upon him as servitours who reverence him serve him and attend upon him By which pretty fable unlesse I be deceived is covertly couched by a Mythiology that there lye hidden in these Ilands veines or mines of Metals over which Saturne is president which notwithstanding are forlet and out of request for want of wood to maintaine the fornaces Now beneath Thule Southward the German sea spreadeth it selfe wide wherein as Pliny affirmeth there lye dispersed the seven ACMODAE Mela tearmeth them HAEMODES But seeing it is knowne for certaine that these be Ilands belonging to Denmarke in the Codan Gulfe namely Zeland Fuynen Lagland Muen Falstor Layland and Femerem there is no cause wherefore I should say any more neither of the Isle GLESSARIA or ELECTRIDA so called of Amber cast up there out of the Sea which Sotacus supposed to drop forth of trees in Britain But seeing that the ancient Germans called Amber Glesse willing enough I am to thinke with that most learned man Erasmus Michael Laetus that the Iland Lesse hard by Scagen or Promontory of Denmark was in times past called GLESSARIA Now within the German sea on that side where it beateth upon Britaine appeare very few Ilands unlesse they be those that lye in Edenburrough Frith namely May Basse Keth and Inche Colme that is Columbs Isle On the coast of Northumberland over against the river Lied one sheweth it selfe namely Lindis-farn the Britans call it Inis Medicante which that I may use Bedes words as the sea ebbeth and floweth at his tides is twice a day inundated and compassed about with water in maner of an Iland and twice likewise made continent to the land as the shore is laid bare again whereupon he aptly termed it a Demy Iland The West part of it being the narrower and left unto conies joineth to the East side by a very small spange of land and this part which bendeth toward the South is much
broader having a pretty towne in it with a Church and a castle where sometimes had beene that Episcopall See which Aidan the Scot called thither to preach the Christian faith unto the people of Northumberland instituted as being much delighted with the solitary situation as a most fit place of retire In this small Iland there sat eleven Bishops But afterwards when the Danes rifled and robbed all the Sea-coasts the Episcopall See was translated to Durham Under the towne there is a good commodious haven defended with a Block-house situate upon an hill toward the South-East This for the habitation therein of holy Monkes is called in English Holy Iland Concerning which Alcuin in an Epistle unto Egelred King of Northumberland writeth thus A place more venerable than all the places in Britaine is left to the spoile of Pagans and Miscreants and where after the departure of S. Paulinus from York Christian religion in our nation first began there it hath felt the first beginning of misery and calamity Seven miles from hence South-Eastward Farn Isle sheweth it selfe distant almost two miles from Banborrow castle enclosed within the most deep Ocean and encircled about with craggy cliffs and this hath also in the middle well neere a Fort belonging unto it even in that place as the report goeth where Cuthbert Bishop of Lindisfarn that tutelar St. and Patron of the Northren Englishmen to the end he might wholly give himselfe to the service of God built as Bede saith in his life a city fitting his government and erected houses in this city sorting well therto For the whole building stood almost round in compasse reaching from wall to wall the space of foure or five perches The wall it selfe on the coast side was more than a mans height for on the inside with hewing downe into a mighty rocke he had made it far higher sufficient to with-hold and keep in the wanton lasciviousnesse either of eyes or thoughts and to elevate the whole intention of the mind up to heavenly desires in such sort as that the devout inhabitants thereof could out of his mansion place behold nothing but the heaven Which wall verily he made not of cut squared stone or of bricke nor laid the same with strong morter but raised altogether of coble and unpolished rough stones and turfe betweene which with digging he had taken out of the midst of the place Of which stones verily some were of that huge bignesse as foure men were uneth able to lift one of them Within this mansion hee had two houses a Chappell and a dwelling roome for common uses The walls whereof he brought up of very naturall earth by digging much of it within and without round about or else by paring it up And roofes over them of timber without all forme and straw thereupon Moreover at the haven of this Iland there stood a greater house wherein the brethren that came to visit him might be entertained and lodged and not far from it a fountain meet for their uses Upon this there adjoine other smaller Ilands toward the North as Widopens Staple Iland which lieth two miles off Bronsman and two lesser than these which they call the Wambes After these the Iland commonly called Coquet lieth right before the mouth of the river Coquet wherein is a plentifull veine of Sea-coale Neither are there any more Ilands to be seen in this coast but over against it be the Saxonum Insulae that is The Saxons Ilands now called Heilich lant that is The Holy-Ilands and they lie as it were in a continued range along East and West Frislands Among which that was best knowne unto the Roman Captaines which Strabo called BIRCHANIS Pliny BIRCHANA and the Romans FABARIA of the resemblance of a certain Graine or Pulse comming up there of the owne accord which that I may restore it againe to the due place although it bee nothing pertinent to my purpose the very name it selfe witnesseth to bee that Borkun which lieth over against the mouth of Ems. Somewhat lower upon the shore of Holland where in ancient time was the mouth of Rhene the foundations of a most ancient Store-house Magazin or Armory are covered over with the waves which being very seldome discovered and laide bare at a low ebbe of the Ocean sheweth both an admirable spectacle of reverend antiquitie and also a most noble modell and forme of building which Abraham Ortelius the repairer of ancient Geography and my entire and inward friend hath preserved out of the maine Ocean by his exact description thereof I have mentioned this the more willingly because the Hollanders call it in their language Huis te Britten that is the British house so that it belongeth at least wise in name to Britain and therfore not impertinent to my purpose For as it is evident and confessed of all that the Emperour C. Caligula when he entended the conquest of Britaine in that ridiculous voiage of his built it for a watch-tower so an ancient Inscription there digged up doth testifie that the Emperor Septimius Severus after it was fallen to decay rebuilt it But whence it was named Britten let him tell that best can ghesse Probable it is that it tooke this name from the Britans for that Bretta the natall place of Philip Melanchthon tooke name of the Britans he himselfe was fully perswaded and that Mounts in Heinault were of the Britans termed Breten we have read elsewhere But yet that I may speake as Plinie doth seeing he marvelleth why the Herbe that is peculiar unto Holland as growing no where else is called Britannica unlesse perhaps those that bordered upon the Ocean dedicated it unto Britain so neere unto it so for my part I wonder as much why this tower should be termed Britannica or Breten unlesse the Hollanders consecrated it to our Britaine lying opposite unto it Pliny calleth a place in Picardy Portum Morinorum Britannicum that is The British haven or port of the Morines either for that they took ship there to passe over into Britain or because it kenned Britaine over against it on the other side of the sea Why then should not this tower by the same reason be called Britannica or Breten for that the Britans often arrived here and that from hence out of Germany there was a common passage into Britain it is most certain considering that Zosimus hath given the just measure of the sea betwixt Britaine and this mouth of Rheine to be 900. Stadia over as though it had beene an usuall passage and written beside that corne was wont to be brought by ships out of Britaine to this place and from thence with barges and boats haled up the Rhene against the streame to serve the Roman garrisons seeing that Iulian the Emperour built garrisons as Marcellinus saith wherein might be inned and kept the corne that the Britans usually transported thither At which time this said Armory may seeme to
the French Gallies gave the attempt to invade it but with the losse of many of his men had the foile and desisted from his enterprise As touching the Ecclesiasticall jurisdiction they were under the Bishop of Constance in Normandy untill that hee in our remembrance refused to abjure the Popes authority in England as our Bishops doe Since which time they were by Queene Elizabeth severed from the Diocesse of Constance and united for ever to the Diocesse of Winchester so as the Bishop of Winchester and his successours execute every thing appertaining to the Episcopall jurisdiction yet their Ecclesiasticall discipline is conformable to the Church of Geneva which the French Ministers have brought in As for the civill customes of these Ilands I could now note some of them out of the Kings records namely How King Iohn instituted twelve Coroners sworn to keepe the pleas and rights belonging to the Crowne and granted for the security of the Ilanders that the Bailiffe henceforth by advice of the Coroners might plead without writ of a new disseisin made within the yeere of the death of any ancestours and predecessours within a yeere of dowry likewise within a yeere c. Moreover that the said Iuries may not delay their judgements beyond the tearme of one yeere likewise that in Customes and other things they should be dealt withall as naturall inborn inhabitants and not as strangers or forrainers But these points I think good to leave unto others who may search more curiously into particulars Generally the customes of Normandy take place here in most cases Touching Serke a little Iland that lieth betweene these above named walled about as it were with mighty steepe rockes in which I. de S. Owen of Iarsey whose antiquity of descent some avouch I know not upon what credit and authority from before Saint Owens time by commission from Queene Elizabeth and for his owne commodity as the report goeth made a plantation whereas before time it lay desolate As touching Iethow which for the use of the Governour of Garnsey serveth in steed of a parke to feed cattell to keepe Deere conies and phesants as also touching Arme which being larger than the other was first a solitary place for Regular Chanons and after for the Franciscan Friers seeing they are not mentioned by the old writers I have no reason to speake much of them After these upon the same coast LIGA whereof Antonine maketh mention shooteth up his head which retaineth the name still and is now called Ligon Then lye there spread and scattered seven Ilands termed by Antonine SIADAE of the number for Saith in the British tongue betokeneth seven which the Frenchmen at this day terme Le set Isles And I suppose these Siades to be corruptly called Hiadatae by Strabo for from these as hee saith it is not a daies sailing into the Iland of Britaine From these SIADAE to BARSA whereof Antonine also hath made mention there is the distance of seven furlongs The Frenchmen call it the Isle de Bas and the English Basepole For the Britans tearme that Bas which is shallow and the Mariners by sounding finde the sea in this place to bee more ebbe and shallow as which lieth not above seven or eight fathomes deepe whereas along all the shore beside the sea carrieth 12.18 and twenty fathoms of water as we may see in their Hydrographicall cards Howbeit betweene these Ilands and Foy in Cornwall this our British sea as Mariners have observed is of a mighty depth which they measure to be in the channell fifty eight fathoms deepe or thereabout From hence I will now cut over to the coasts of our owne Britaine and keeping along the shore as I passe by Ideston Moushole and Longships which be rather infamous and dangerous rocks than Ilands at the very utmost point of Cornwall lieth Antonines LISIA now called of them that dwell thereby Lethowsow but of others The Gulfe seene onely at a low water when the tide is returned I take this to be that Lisia which ancient writers doe mention because Lis as I have heard among our Britans in Wales signifieth the same For Lis● soundeth as much as to make a noise with a great rumbling or roaring such as commonly we heare in Whirlepits and in that place the current or tide of the Ocean striveth amaine with a mighty noise both Northward and Eastward to get out as being restrained and pent in betweene Cornwall and the Ilands which Antonine calleth SIGDELES Sulpitius Severus SILLINAE Solinus SILURES Englishmen Silly the low country Sea-men Sorlings and the ancient Greeke writers tearme HESPERIDES and CASSITERIDES For Dionisius Alexandrinu● named them Hesperides of their Westerne situation in these verses 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Which Priscian translated thus Sed summam contra Sacram cognomine dicunt Quam caput Europae sunt stanni pondere plenae Hesperides populus tenuit quas fortis Iberi Which may be englished thus Now just beneath that Isle which Sacred High And head of Europe men are wont to call The Ilands nam'd Hesperides do lie And those well stor'd with Tin a rich metall But would ye know the people then note well The glorious wealthy Spaniards therein dwell These also Festus Avienus in his poeme entituled Orae Maritimae that is The sea coasts called Ostrymnides touching which he inserted these verses as they are found in the Paris edition and the notes upon the same In quo insulae sese exerunt Oestrymnides Laxe jacentes metallo divites Stanni at que plumbi multa vis his gentis est Superbus animus efficax solertia Negotiandi cura jugis omnibus Nolusque cumbis turbidum late fretum Et belluosi gurgitem Oceani secant Non hi carinas quippe pinu texere Facere morem non abiete ut usus est Curvant phasello sed rei ad miraculum Navigia junctis semper aptant pellibus Corioque vastum saepe per currunt salum Wherein the Isles Oestrymnides doe spread And shew themselves broad lying all about In metals rich as well of tin as lead The people strong their stomacks high and stout Active and quicke fresh merchants all throughout No troublous waves in Frith or Ocean maine Of monsters full with ships cut they in twaine For why no skill at all have they to frame Of Pine tree keels for barke or gallion Nor know they how to make oares to the same Of fyrre or maple wood where sailes are none As others use But which is wonder one Of stitched hides they all their vessels make And oft through sea in leather voiage take Like vessels unto which were used in this our sea in the yeere of salvation 914. For we read of certaine devout men that in a Carab or carogh made of two tanned hides onely and an halfe sailed out of Ireland into Cornwall Afterwards also of the said Ilands the
same Avienus wrote thus Tartesiisque in terminos Oestrymnidum Negotiandi mos erat Carthagini● Etiam colonis Those of Tartessus eke as well As they in Carthage towne that dwell Were wont to trade for merchandise To skirts of Isles Oestrymnides Other Greeke writers tearmed these Cassiterides of Tinne like as Strabo nameth a certaine place among the Drangi in Asia CASSITERON of Tinn and Stephanus in his booke of Cities reporteth out of Dionysius that a certaine Iland in the Indian sea was called CASSITERIA of Tinne As for that MICTIS which Pliny citeth out of Timaeus to bee sixe dayes sailing inward from Britaine and to yeeld Mines of white lead that it should be one of these I dare scarcely affirme Yet am I not igrant that the most learned Hermolaus Barbarus read it in manuscript books Mitteris for Mictis and doth read for Mitteris Cartiteris But that I should avouch these to be those CASSITERIDES so often sought for the authority of the ancient writers their site and the mines of Tinne are motives to perswade me Full opposite unto the Artabri saith Strabo over against which the West parts of Britain doe lye appeare those Ilands Northward which they call Cassiterides placed after a sort in the same clime with Britaine And in another place The sea between Spaine and the Cassiterides is broader than that which lieth between the Cassiterides and Britain The Cassiterides look toward the coast of Celtiberia saith Solinus And Diodorus Siculus in the Ilands next unto the Spanish sea which of Tinne are called Cassiterides Also Eustathius There be ten Islands called Cassiterides lying close together Northward Now seeing these Isles of Silly are opposite unto the Artabri that is Gallitia in Spaine seeing they bend directly North from them seeing they are placed in the same clime with Britaine seeing they looke toward the coast of Celtiberia seeing they are dis-joined by a farre broader sea from Spaine than from Britaine seeing they are next unto the Spanish sea seeing they lye hard one by another toward the North and ten onely of them bee of any good account namely Saint Maries Annoth Agnes Sampson Silly Brefer Rusco or Trescaw Saint Helens Saint Martins and Arthur and that which is most materiall seeing they have veines of Tinne as no other Iland hath beside them in this tract and considering that two of the lesse sort to wit Minan Witham and Minuisisand may seeme to have taken their names of Mines I would rather think these to be CASSITERIDES than either the Azores which beare too far West or Cisarga with Olivarius that lieth in maner close unto Spaine or even Britain it selfe with Ortelius considering there were many Cassiterides and Dionysius Alexandrinus after he had treated of the Cassiterides writeth of Britaine apart by it selfe If any man by reason of the number deny these to be CASSITERIDES for that they be more than ten let him also number the Haebudes and the Orcades and if after the account taken he finde neither more nor fewer with Ptolomee than five Haebudes and 30. Orcades let him search in any other place but where they are now extant and with all his searching by reckoning of the numbers I know for certaine he shall not easily finde them But the ancient writers had no certaine knowledge of these most remote parts and Ilands of the earth in that age no more than wee in these daies of the Isles in the Streights of Magellane and the whole tract of New Guiney And that Herodotus had no knowledge of these it is no marvell for himselfe confesseth that hee knew nothing for certaine to make report of the farthest parts of Europe But lead was brought first from hence into Greece Lead saith Plinie in his eight Booke and in the Chapter of the first Inventours of things Midacritus first brought out of the Island Cassitiris But as touching these Islands listen what Strabo saith in his third Booke of Geography toward the end The Ilands Cassiterides be in number ten neere one unto another situate in the deepe sea Northward from the haven of the Artabri One of them is desert the rest are inhabited by men wearing blacke garments clad in side-coats reaching downe to their ankles girt about the breast and going with staves like unto the Furies in Tragedies They live of their cattell straggling and wandring after a sort as having no certaine abiding place Metall mines they have of tinne and of lead in lieu whereof and of skins and furres they receive by exchange from the Merchants earthen vessels salt and brasen workes At the beginning the Phoenicians only traded thither from Gades and concealed from others this their navigation But when the Romanes followed a certaine Master of a shippe that they themselves might learne this trafficke of merchandise he upon a spitefull envie ran his ship for the nonce upon the sands and after hee had brought them that followed after into the same danger of destruction himselfe escaped the shipwracke and out of the common Treasury received the worth of the commodities and wares that he lost Howbeit the Romans after they had tryed many times learned at length the voiage hither Afterwards Publius Crassus when hee had sailed thither and seene how they digged not very deepe in these Mines and that the people were lovers of peace and lived quietly desirous also to saile upon the sea he shewed the feat thereof to as many as were willing to learne although they were to saile a greater sea than that which reacheth from thence to Britain But to discourse no farther whether these were the ancient Cassiterides or no and to returne to Silly There bee about an hundred forty and five Ilands carrying this name all clad with grasse or covered with a greenish mosse besides many hideous rockes and great craggy stones raising head above water situate as it were in a circle round eight leagues from the lands end or utmost point of Cornewall West-South-West Some of them yeeld sufficient store of corne but all of them have abundance of conies cranes swannes herons and other sea-foule The greatest of them all is that which tooke the name of Saint Marie having a towne so named and is about eight miles in compasse offereth a good harbour to Saylers in a sandie Bay wherein they may anchor at sixe seven and eight fathom but in the entry lye some rockes on either side It hath had anciently a castle which hath yeelded to the force of time But for the same Queene Elizabeth in the yeere 1593. when the Spaniards called in by the Leaguers of France began to nestle in little Britain built a new castle with faire and strong ravelines and named the same Stella Maria in respect both of the ravelines which resemble the raies of a starre and the name of the Isle for defence whereof shee there placed a garrison under the command of Sir Francis Godolphin Doubtlesse these are those Ilands which as Solinus writeth a
relishes both in wit and judgement But to tell the truth unfainedly the love of my Country which comprisseth all love in it and hath endeared me unto it the glory of the British name the advise of some judicious friends hath overmastred my modestie and wild I nild I hath enforced me against mine own judgment to undergo this burden too heavy for me so thrust me forth into the worlds view For I see judgements prejudices censures reprehensions obtrectations detractions affronts and confronts as it were in battaile array to environ me on every side some there are which wholly contemne and avile this study of Antiquitie as a back-looking curiositie whose authority as I do not utterly vilefie so I do not overprize or admire their judgement Neither am I destitute of reasons whereby I might approve this my purpose to well bred and well meaning men which tender the glory of their native Country and moreover could give them to understand that in the studie of Antiquity which is alwaies accompanied with dignity and hath a certaine resemblance with eternity there is a sweet food of the mind well befitting such as are of honest and noble disposition If any there be which are desirous to be strangers in their owne soile and forrainers in their owne City they may so continue and therin flatter themselves For such like I have not written these lines nor taken these paines Some there be who may object the silly web of my stile and rough hewed forme of my writing Verily I acknowledge it neither have I waied every word in Goldsmiths scales as Vario commanded neither purposed I to picke flowers out of the gardens of Eloquence But why should they object this when as Cicero the father of Eloquence denieth that this kind of argument can 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is be flourished out and as Pomponius Mela said is incapable of all Eloquent speech Many happily will insult over me for that I have adventured to hunt after the originals of names by conjectures who if they proceed on to reject all conjectures I feare me a great part of liberall learning and humane knowledge will be utterly out-cast into banishment For the edge of our understanding is so blunt that we are of necessitie enforced to prosecute many matters in all professions conjecturally In Physick 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which are nothing else but conjectures have their place and stand in good steed likewise in Rhetoricke Civil Law and other arts they are admitted and allowed And whereas conjectures are certaine detections of things unknown and as Fabius termeth them directions of reason to verity I have alwaies thought that they were to be accounted among the skuppers wherewith TIME worketh and draweth VERITIE out of Democritus his deepe dungeon But if these men may be induced to attribute ought to conjectures I doubt not but my modesty and moderation in conjecturing may withall purchase my pardon Plato in his Cratilus commandeth that we recal the originals of names to the barbarous tongues for so he called al but Greek as being most ancient I thereupon in Etymologies and my conjectures have made recourse to the British or Welsh tongue so they now call it as being the same which the Primitive and most ancient Inhabitants of this land used and to the English-Saxons tongue which our Progenitors the English spake He commandeth that the name be consonant to the nature of the thing the nature thereof to the name if they be herein dissonant I admit them not In things saith he there is 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is but I cannot aptly expresse them A sound a forme and colour if these discover not themselves in the name I reject the conjecture As for obscure Etymologies far fetched hardly wrested and which may be drawne diversly I have vouchsafed them no place it this worke finally I have beene so sparing and cautelously forecasting in my conjectures that if I be not thought 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Happily adventurous I shall not seeme 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Presumptuously audacious And albeit I have once or twice framed two conjectures in one and the same name yet I forget not in the meane time that VNITIE is consecrated unto VERITIE There are some peradventure which apprehend it disdainfully and offensively that I have not remembred this or that family when as it was not my purpose to mention any but such as were more notable nor all them truely for their names would fill whole volumes but such as hapned in my way according to the method I proposed to my selfe And with Gods grace I may have a more convenient occasion to deserve well of the Nobilitie and Gentry But happily they will be most offended herein who have least deserved of their conutry or overvallew themselves most or whose Gentry may be but newly blossomed Of whom yet I protest I would not offend any and therefore desire and hope their noble natures will not take it offensively upon such causelesse apprehensions Others will call me in question for that I have commended some persons now living yet I have done it sparingly and that out of an assurance of verity out of the common consent and voice of such as can well judge of worth from no base flattery By these sparing commendations such as are commended may be lessoned that their deportments may be answerable and that they preserve and daily increase the same Succeeding ages which I respect more than the present will render to every man his right whatsoever is now scribled in papers In the meane time I wish them to remember that to praise good men is but to shew a light of direction as out of a watch towre to posteritie True is that saying of Symmachus Imitation is encouraged with the seemely praises of the good and imitating vertue is cherished by the example of others honour If any say that I have sought occasion to commend some one or other I confesse it Neither is well-meaning without leasing to be blamed among the good and well deserving friends are not to be forgotten Howsoever Virtue and Glory hath alwaies opposites and men usually envie the present and reverence what is past yet God forbid that we should be so partially injurious as to thinke our times under most worthy Princes to be barrein of praiseworthy persons As for such as maligne the praise of the good I feare me least in their owne guiltinesse they may apply the dispraise of the bad to themselves As for my selfe I sensibly understand that which Plinie intimated to Tacitus in like case There will bee great offence and slender thankes for albeit in the loosenesse of the world there is much more to be discommended than commended yet if you commend you shall be taxed as oversparing if you discommend you shall be censured as overlavish although
how By borrow'd Organs which to them belongs Alas poore Snakes base Envies Instruments Poore in your Wit and way-ward in your Will Yee little learne so hate the Ornaments Of Arte in greater Wits of lesser skill Did ye not doubt your owne defect of Wit You would all Artes should still be showne to all And let the best Wit make best use of it For Wits renowne and letters liberall Yea you would wish the Babylonian towre Were yet to build while all one tongue impart That so sole Wit might be Arts Governour Not tongues that are the Essence of no Art But were yee good and would all Good should know Who Envy this more learn'd lesse-envious man You would the frankest praise on him bestow That makes th'unlearn'd a learn'd Historian Shall English be so poore and rudely-base As not be able through meere penury To tell what French hath said with gallant grace And most tongues else of lesse facunditie God shield it should and Heav'n foresend that we Should so debase our owne deere mother-tongue That shewes our thoughts how ever high they be With higher tearmes and el●quence among Then let me muzzle those so d●gged mouthes That byte and barke at what they should defend They lies doe love that hidden would have Truthes And he is Vertues foe that 's Errors friend But kind Philêmon let thine active Muse Still mount above these base detracting spirits Looke not so low as Snakes that men abuse And highest Fame shall crowne thy lowest merits Goe forward maugre backward Envies ●rabs That still goe backe thy paines give others pleasure They play proud Miriams part thou Ionada●s They skant our learnings lists thou giv'st us measure This Camdens-Britaine that on wings of Art Flies or'e the World knowne least where most it ough● There thy free Pen to all doth it impart And mak'st them learn'd that almost are untaugh● For Camden whose all time out-wearing fame Sith he the learned hath so often gladded Hath by thy Pen now multipli'd his Name For now to Camdens Britaine Holland's added Then pregnant HOLLAND Britaine fertile mak● With learnings compost till the croppe of Art Be ready for our neighbours Sithe and Rake That have lesse skill than will to take our part So shall this soile when thou art soile or sand Call Camdens-Britaine Hollands richest land The unfaired honourer of thee and thine indeavours JOHN DAVI●S of Hereford BRITAINE BRITAINE or BRITANNIE which also is ALBION named in Greeke 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the most famous Island without comparison of the whole world severed from the continent of Europe by the interflowing of the Ocean lieth against Germanie and France triangle-wise by reason of three Promontories shooting out into divers parts to wit BELERIUM i. the Cape of S. Burien in Corwall Westward CANTIUM i. the Fore-land of Kent into the East and TARVISIUM or ORCAS i. the point of Catnesse in Scotland Northward On the West side whereas Ireland is seated VERGIVIUS i. the Westerne Ocean breaketh in From the North it hath the most vast and wide Hyperborean sea beating upon it On the East where it coasteth upon Germanie enforced sore it is with the Germane sea and Southward as it lieth opposite to France with the British Disjoyned from those neighbour-countries all about by a convenient distance every way fitted with commodious and open havens for traffique with the universall world and to the generall good as it were of mankind thrusting it selfe forward with great desire from all parts into the sea For betweene the said Fore-land of Kent and Calais in France it so advanceth it selfe and the sea is so straighted that some thinke the land there was pierced through and received the seas into it which before-time had beene excluded For the maintenance of which their conceit they alleage both Virgil in that verse of his Et penitus toto divisos orbe Britannos And Britans people quite disjoyn'd from all the world besides Because Britaine saith Servius Honoratus was in times past joyned to the maine And also Claudian who in imitation of him wrote thus Nostra deducta Britannia mundo Britaine a land which severed is from this our Roman world Cer●es that the outward face and fashion of this globe of Earth hath beene with the inundation of Noahs flood as also by other causes altered that some mountaines thereby increased in heighth many places higher than others setled low and became even plaines and valleys that waterie washes were dried up and drie grounds turned to be standing waters yea and that certaine Islands have beene violently broken off from the firme land carrieth some likelihood of truth But whether the same be true indeed or whether there were any Islands at all before the Deluge it is not my purpose here to argue neither take I pleasure without good advisement of Gods works to give my doome That the providence of God hath ordained divers things to one and the same end who knoweth not and verily that parcels of the earth dispersed here and there within the sea serve no lesse to adorne the world than lakes spred upon the earth and hilles raised aloft aswell Divines as Philosophers have alwaies held Livius and Fabius Rusticus have likened the forme heereof unto a long dish or two edged axe and so is it shapen indeed toward the South as saith Tacitus whereupon the fame went of the whole But Northward that huge and enorme tract of ground running beyond unto the furthermost point groweth narrow and sharpe like a wedge So large and of such exceeding greatnesse in circuit they in olde time tooke it to bee that Caesar hee who first of all the Romans discovered it wrote How he had found out another world supposing the same so great as that it seemed to containe within it the Ocean and not to be compassed about therewith and Iulius Solinus Polyhistor hath left in writing that for the largenesse thereof it deserveth Well neere the name of a second world Howbeit this age of ours hath now at length by many and sundry voyages found out in some sort the true dimension and just compasse of the whole Isle For from the point Tarvision unto the cape Belerium the reaches and crooked turnings of the sea-banks along the West considered there are reckoned much about DCCCXII miles from thence keeping the sea side as it bendeth Southward untill you come to the Fore-land of Kent CCCXX miles whence coasting by the Germane sea with crooked creeks and inlets for DCCIIII miles it reacheth to the foresaid point Tarvisium so that by this reckoning the whole Iland taketh in compasse MDCCCXXXVI miles Which measure as it commeth farre short of Plinies so is it also somewhat lesse than Caesars As for Schitinius Chius I have no reason once to name him who having in Apollonius among other wonders tolde us strange tales of fruits
disburthen themselves so long untill the universall world were to the glory of the Creator replenished with Inhabitants every where Wee ought therefore to bee perswaded that the ancient Gomerians of Gaule now France either chased away by the pursuit of others or cast out for lessening of the multitude or else inflamed with a desire to travell and see farre countries a thing naturally inbred in men crossed the sea and came over first into this Isle which from the continent they were able to kenne And it stands to verie good reason also that every countrie received the first Inhabitants from places neere bordering rather than from such as were most disjoyned For who would not thinke that Cyprus had the first Inhabitors out of Asia next unto it Crete and Sicilie out of Greece neereby and Corsica out of Italy a neighbour countrie and not to goe farre Zeland out of Germanie the neerest unto it as also Island out of Norway rather than from the remote tracts of Tartarie and Mauritania In like manner why should not wee thinke that out Britaine was inhabited at first by the Gaules their neighbours rather than either by the Trojans or Italians the Alab●s and Brutians so farre distant and remoove Neither doe writers fetch the originall and infancie as it were of the Britaine 's from any other place than their neighbour country Gaul The inner parts of Britaine saith Caesar is inhabited of them whom they themselves report out of their records to have beene borne in the Island the Sea coast of those who upon purpose to make warre had passed thither out of Belgium in Gaule who all in manner carie the names of those cities and States out of which they came thither and after they had warred there remained For there were in Britaine like as also in Gaule people named Belgae Atrebatii Parisi Cenomanni c. Semblably Tacitus Generally quoth he if a man consider all circumstances it is most likely that the Gaules beeing neighbours peopled the land of Britaine next unto them Yea and Beda one that among all our writers favoureth the truth At the first saith hee this Island had those Britaines onely to inhabite it from whom also it tooke the name who by report having sailed out from the tract of Armorica into Britaine challenged unto themselves the South coasts thereof Now he calleth the tract of Armorica the sea coasts of Gaule opposite unto our Island This also seemeth to make for our purpose that Caesar reporteth How Divitiacus the Gaule even in his remembrance held a good part both of Gaule and also of Britannie under his government as also that which is of greatest moment Plinie among the maritime people just over against Britaine neere unto the County of Bullen reckoned the Britaines like as Dionysius after a more ancient writer than he in these verses 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Word for word thus And verily that utmost point and angle of this part Inhabite the Iberians people of haughtie heart Neere Gebraltar at Hercules his pillars cal'd of old Turning up the maine in length what way the current cold Of Northern Ocean with strong tides doth interflow and swell Where Britaines and those faire white folke the martiall Germans dwell For these words where Britaine 's seeme to have respect unto those other Turning upon the maine in length and Eustathius who did set forth his Commentaries upon this author understandeth it of the Britons in Gaule in these words 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is And of these Britons the Isles of Britaine over against them tooke their denomination Howbeit Avienus and Stephen in his booke of Cities are of a contrarie mind Moreover the same Religion was of both people observed Among the Britaines saith Tacitus there is to bee seene in their ceremonies and superstitious perswasions an apparant conformitie with the Gaules The Gaules quoth Solinus after a detestable manner of sacred rites not to the honor but rather to the injurie of religion offred mans flesh in their sacrifices That the Britaines did the very same Dio Cassius beside others reporteth in his Nero. Both Nations also had their Druidae as Caesar and Tacitus very sufficient writers doe witnesse Concerning which Druidae let not the Reader thinke much to run over this whole passage out of Caesar. The Druidae are present at all Divine service The overseers they be of publike and private sacrifices the interpretours also of their religious rites and ceremonies To these a great number of younge men doe flocke for to bee taught and those doe they highly esteeme and honour For lightly they decide and determine all controversies as well publike as private And in case any hainous fact bee committed if there bee a murther or man-slaughter if variance arise about inheritance if strife about the bounds of lands they in their discretion judge of the matter they appoint rewards they award penalties and punishments If any either private person or body politike stand not to their Decree they put them by all sacrifices as excommunicate And this among them is the most grievous punishment They that be thus interdicted are reckoned as godlesse and most wicked persons All men decline from them they avoid both meeting and talking with them for feare of taking harme by contagion from them Neither have they the benefits of Law though they request it nor be capable of any office though they sue for it Moreover of all these Druides there is one President who hath the greatest authoritie among them When he is dead looke who excelleth the rest in worth and dignitie he succeedeth him But if there be many of equall estimation chosen there is one by the voices of the Druides Sometimes also they fall together by the eares and take armes about this place of precedencie These Druides at one certaine time of the yeare hold a solemne Session within a consecrated place in the marches of the Carnutes a countrey held to be the middle of all France Hither resort as unto the terme from all parts as many as have any controversies or suits in law and to their judgements and decrees they yield obedience Their learning and profession is thought to have beene first found and devised in Britaine and so from thence translated into France and now also in these daies they that desire more exact knowledge thereof goe thither for the most part to be instructed therein The Druides are wont to bee freed from warfare neither with the rest pay they tribute Immunitie they have in exemption as from war-service so from all other charges whatsoever Thus many there bee who being excited with so great rewards and of their owne accord meete together at Schoole for to learne and are thither sent by their kinsfolke friends and parents There by report they learne by rote a great number
not now acknowledge howbeit that it hath been in use among the Britans Rhediad for a course Rheder to run and Rhedecfa a race doe plainly shew which words that they spring from the same stocke no man need to make doubt And what absurditie were it from hence to derive Eporedia a City of the Salassians which Pliny writeth tooke that name of Horse-breakers Another kind of waggon a charriot there was used of both these people which by one name they called Covinus and the driver Covinarius And albeit this word together with that kind of waggon it selfe be quite growne out of use yet the primitive thereof as I may so say remaineth still among the Britains in whose language the word Cowain signifieth to carry or ride in a waggon Essendum likewise was a Gaulish waggon or charriot rather meet for the warres which together with Caesar Propertius attributes to the Britans in this verse Essedacaelatis siste Britanna jugis Stay there your British charriots with yokes so faire engrav'n Circius is a wind by name passing well knowne unto which Augustus Caesar both vowed and also built a temple in Gallia That the word is Gaulish Phavori●us a Gaulois borne declareth in Agellius Our Gauls saith he call the wind blowing out of their land and which they find to be most fell and boisterous by the name of Circius of the whirling and whistling I suppose that it makes Of all winds this is known to be most blustering and violent now Cyrch with the Britans betokeneth force and violence as may be seene in their Letany The Pennine Alpes which Caesar calleth the highest Alpes had this name imposed upon them as Livie writeth not of Annibal Poenus that is the Carthaginian but of that Hill which with the highest top among the Alpes the Mountainers of Gaule consecrated and named Penninus But Pen with the Britans even in these daies signifieth the tops of hils whence the highest mountaines that we have to wit Pen-monmaur Pendle Pen Pencoh-cloud and Pennigent gat their names Neither have the high mountaines Apennini in Italy their name from ought els The cities and States of Gaule coasting upon the Ocean were called as Caesar writeth after the custome of the Gauls Aremoricae with whom the Britans accord in the same name for the same thing For with them Ar-more is as much as by the sea or upon the sea And in the very same sense Strabo nameth them in Greek 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 In the raigne of Dioclesian the Emperor the rurall people in Gaule made a commotion And to the crue of that faction of theirs they gave the name Baucadae And among the Britans Swineheards and country gnoffs be called Beichiad The inborne theeves of the land the Gauls saith Sidonius named Vargae And I have found in the Glossarie of the Cathedrall Church of Lhandaff that theeves in the British tongue were in old time knowne by the name of Veriad The Allobrogae saith that ancient and excellent Scholiast upon Iuvenal were so named because Brogae in French signifieth a land or Territorie and Alla another As one would say Translated out of another place But Bro in British is a region or country and Allan without or externall so that the Etymologie in both tongues holdeth very well There is an herbe like to Plantain called in Gaule Glastrum saith Plinie wherewith the Britans died and coloured themselves as writers testifie This is the herbe which we terme Woad and it giveth a blew colour which colour at this day the Britans terme Glasse This was the Greeks Isatis by the testimony of Plinie and the Diars vitrum by the authority of Oribasius Whereby Pomponius Mela may easily be corrected if in stead of Ultro you put Vitro where he saith thus Britanni incertum ob decorem an ob quid aliud ultro corpora infecti that is whether the Britans died their bodies with woad for a beautifull shew or in some other respect it is uncertaine The Gallathians who spake the same language as S. Hierome witnesseth that the ancient Gauls did had a little shrub called Coccus of which that deep red skarlet colour was made and this very colour the Britans usually name Coco That Brachae were garments common to French and Britains wee have shewed before Diodorus Siculus calleth such unshorne or undressed and of sundry colours And even now adaies the Britans terme foule and ragged clothes Brati If Laina was an old Gaulish word as Strabo seemeth to tell us when he writeth thus The Gauls weave them cassocks of thickned wooll which they call Lainas the Britans are not gone far from them who in their tongue name wooll Glawn Bardus in the Gauls tongue signifieth a Singer Festus Pompeius is mine author and this is a meere British word Bardocucullus as we are taught out of Martial and others was the cloake that the Gaulish Bardi woore And like as Bard so the other part also of the foresaid word remaineth whole among the Britans who call such a cloake Cucull. Gaul saith Plinie yeelded a kinde of Corne of their owne which they called Brance and we Sandalum a graine of the finest and neatest sort Among the Britans likewise meale of the whitest graine is named Guineth Urane The herbe which the Greekes of five leaves doe call Pentaphyllon was named of the Gaules Pempedula as sheweth Apuleius Now Pymp in British is five and Deilen a leafe As the Gaules by Pymp meant the number of five so by Petor foure as wee learne out of Festus who sheweth that Petoritum was a chariot or wagon of the Gaules so called of foure wheeles and this word Pedwar in the British tongue signifieth foure Among wooden instruments Canterium in English a Leaver was among the Gaules called Guvia as Isidorus writeth and novv the same in the British language is named Gwif Betulla vvhich vve call Byrch Plinie nameth a Gaulish tree Hee vvould if he lived novv call it the British tree For it groweth most plentifully in Britaine and in the British tongue is named Bedw Wine delayed with water as we read in Athens the Gaules called Dercoma and among the Britans Dwr betokeneth water And even so not to prosecute all that may be said in Dioscorides the herbe Ferne called in Latin Filix and of the old Gauls Ratis is in the British tongue termed Redin The Elder tree in Latine Sambucus in the old Gaulish Scovies is in British Iscaw The herbe in Italy Seratula in old Gaulish Vetonica the Britans and wee doe call Betany That which in Plinie the Latines name Terrae adeps that is the fat of the ground the Gaules Marga is of the Britans called Marle The white or bright marle named of the Latines Candida Marga of the Gaules Gliscomarga might of the Britans be termed Gluismarl For Gluys with
named Celtae the Greekes termed Galatae of their milke-white colour as some would have it or of their long bush of haire as I said erewhile So they that nominated themselves after their own language Teutsch Numidians and Hellenes by the Romans were named Germans Mauri and Grecians Even so in those daies not to speake of many other they which in their owne Idiome are called Muselmans Magier Czecchi and Besermans are by all nations in Europe named Turkes Hungarians Bohemians and Tartarians And even wee our selves in England called in our naturall speech Englishmen are named by the Britaines Irishmen and the high-high-land Scots Sasson that is to say Saxons By the same reason we are to deeme that our ancestours which termed themselves Cumero were upon some other cause either by themselves or others named Britaines From whence the Greekes framed their 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and delivered the same as it were from hand to hand unto the Romans This ground being laid let us enquire now into the names of our Island As for the name Albion I passe not much considering that the Greekes gave it to this Isle for difference sake seeing that all the Islands bordering round about it were called Britanish and Britaines The Island Britaine saith Plinie renowned in the Greek records and ours both lieth betwixt North and West over against Germanie France and Spaine but with a great distance betweene them they being the greatest parts by far of all Europe Albion it had to name when all the Isles adjacent were called Britannies Whereupon Catullus writing against Caesar said thus Hunc Galliae timent timent Britanniae Him Gaule doth feare him Britaine dreads Who also in the same traine of verses calleth it the utmost Isle of the West And it may seeme that this name Albion sprung from the vanitie the fabulous inventions and that unconstant levity of the Greeks in coining of names which they themselves termed 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 For seeing they have in fabulous wife named Italy Hesperia of Hesperus the sonne of Atlas France Gallatia of a sonne of Polyphemus I cannot otherwise believe but that in the same veine also of fabling they called this Island Albion of Albion Neptunes sonne which thing Perottus and Lilius Giraldus have put downe in writing Unlesse a man would derive it rather of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which as Festus witnesseth in Greeke signifieth White whereupon the Alpes also have their appellation For environed it is with white rocks which Cicero termeth Mirificas moles that is wondrous Piles and hereof it is that upon the coined pieces bearing the stampe of Antoninus Pius and Severus Britaine is pourtraied sitting upon rockes in womans habit And the British Poets themselves name it Inis wen that is The white Isle To say nothing of Orpheus in his Argonauticks if so be they be his who called the Island next unto Hibernia or Irënis that is Ireland which must needs be this of ours 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is the white land and which a few verses before he may seeme to have named 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 for 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Fracastorius also writing how that pestilent day-fever in Britaine which commonly we call the British or English swet hapned by occasion of the soile as if the same had stood much upon plaister supposeth that this Island gat the name Albion of the said plaisterish soile As for that pretty tale how Albion was also called of Albina one of those thirtie daughters of Dioclesian the King of Syria which at their very wedding solemnitie slew their husbands and being brought hither by ship without rower tooke possession of this Island first and conceived by spirits brought forth a breede of giants who can abide to heare it without indignation as the most loud lie of some leaud lossell Neither is there any cause wherefore I should so curiously search why Britaine in that ancient Parodia against Ventidius Bassus is named Insula Caeruli considering that it is compassed round about with the Ocean which the Poets call Caerulus and Caerulum Whereupon Claudian of Britaine writeth thus Cujus vestigîa verrit Caerulus Whose feet the Azure Sea Doth sweepe I passe over to speake of Aristides who named it The great and the furthest Island That it was called also Romania Gildas after a sort doth intimate who writeth that subdued it was of the Romans so as that the name of Roman servitude stuck to the soile thereof and by and by after so as it might not be counted BRITANIA but ROMANIA and one or two pages after speaking of the same The Island quoth he keeping indeed the Roman name but neither their custome nor law And prosper Aquitanus in expresse words called it the Roman Island heereto may bee referred also thus much that when the Statutes of Tacitus and Florianus the Emperors were by lightning overthrowne the Soothsayers answered out of their learning that an Emperour should arise out of their family who among other things was to set presidents over Taprobane and to send a Proconsull to the Roman Island which the learned understand of our Britaine that was a Province Praesidiall and never Proconsular as afterwards wee will declare But that sometime it was named Samothea of Samothes the sixth Sonne of Iaphet believe it who that will for me Out of whose shop and forge this comes I wote full well even from Annius Viturbiensis forsooth who under a goodly title as the manner is of craftie retailers hath in the name of Berosus published and thrust upon credulous persons his owne fictions and vaine inventions But touching the name and originall of Britaine the truth by reason of the divers and sundry wits of men is very doubtfull and wavering In which point that I may lawfully interpose mine owne conjecture I will by way of Preface beseech our Britains to speake and think favorably of me that while they are desirous to learne they would be willing to pardon and not debarre me of that course which Eliot Leland Lhuid and the rest have taken For if it was lawfull for Humfrey Lhuid a most learned Britain without any prejudice at all to Brutus nay if hee were commended rather for it to derive the name of Britaine otherwise than from Brutus let it not bee imputed as a hainous offence unto me who am unwilling to impugne the Storie of Brutus to deduce it from somewhat else if I can And that out of the very British tongue and from nothing else which as it is least mingled with other languages and withall most ancient so in this search it seemeth greatly to helpe and further us For ancient tongues are reputed passing necessarie for the searching out of Originals and Plato teacheth us That the first names being through the long continuance of time growne out of use are preserved in barbarous tongues as being more ancient than others And although those things so
the Latins Minium in the name of Acliminius King Cinobelinus his sonne no man I hope will stand against mee Moreover Rufina that most learned British Lady tooke that name of the colour Rufus that is sad r●d like as Albane the first martyr in Britaine of Albus that is White And if any one that is skilfull in the old British tongue would examine the rest of British names which in the ancient Writers are not past foure or five more in all wee may well suppose that he shall find in those names as few as they be some signification of a colour Neither must we omit this observation that the commonest names at this day among the Britans Gwin Du Goch Lhuid were imposed upon them from the white blacke red russet or tawny colour So that now it may bee thought no such wonder that the whole nation it selfe drew the denomination from painting considering verily that they in generall painted themselves and the very Inhabitants both in times past and also in these our daies imposed upon themselves their names of Colours But now to the matter if haply all this hath beene beside the matter This also is certaine that in stories a Britaine is called in the British tongue Brithon I care not for the note of aspiration seeing that the Britaine 's who as Chrysostome saith had a hissing or lisping pronuntiation delight in aspirations which the Latines have carefully avoided Now as Brito came of Brith so did Britannia also in my opinion Britannia saith Isidore tooke that name from a word of the owne nation For what time as the most ancient Greeks and these were they that first gave the Island that name sailing still along the shore as Eratosthenes saith either as rovers or as merchants travailed unto nations most remote and disjoyned farre asunder and learned either from the Inhabitants themselves or else of the Gaules who spake the same tongue that this nation was called Brith and Brithon then they unto the word BRITH added TANIA which as we find in the Greek Glossaries betokeneth in Greek a region and thereof they made a compound name 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is the britons-Britons-land for which they have written false 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 But Lucretius and Caesar the first Latines that made mention thereof more truely Britannia That this is so I doe the more firmely believe because that besides our Britaine a man shall not find over the face of the whole earth above three countries of any account and largenesse which end in the termination TANIA and those verily lying in this west part of the world namely MAVRITANIA LVSITANIA and AQVITANIA Which names I doubt not but the Greeks made and delivered to the Latines as who first discovered and surveied these lands For of Mauri they framed Mauritania as one would say the countrey of the Mauri which the home-bred people of that land as Strabo witnesseth called Numidia of Lusus the sonne of Liber Lusitania as it were the land of Lusius and Aquitania perhaps ab aquis that is of waters as Ivo Carnotensis is of opinion being a region seated upon waters in which sense as Plinie writeth it was before time named Armorica that is coasting upon the sea As for Turditania and Bastitania names of smaller countries they may hereto also be reduced which likewise were in this westerne tract to wit in Spaine and may seeme to signifie as much as the regions of the Turdi and the Basti Neither is it a strange and new thing that a denomination should be compounded of a forrein and a Greek word put together Names are compounded saith Quintilian either of our own that is Latine and of a strange word put together as Biclinium that is a roome with two beds or two tables and contrariwise as Epitogium that is a garment worne upon a gowne Anticato that is a book written against Cato or of two forrein words joyned in one as Epirrhedium a kind of wagon And this maner of composition is most usuall in the names of countries Came not Ireland by composition of the Irish word Erin and the English word Land Did not Angleterre that is England grow together of an English and of a French word and did not Franclond for so our Saxons named Francia or France proceed from a French and Saxon word Came not Poleland likewise from a Polonian word which among them betokeneth a plaine and a Germane Lastly was not Danmarch compounded of a Danish word and the Duch March which signifieth a bound or limit But in so plaine and evident a matter I will not use any more words Neither have we cause to wonder at this Greeke addition TANIA seeing that S. Hierome in his questions upon Genesis proveth out of most ancient authors that the Greeks inhabited along the sea coasts and Isles of Europe throughout as far as to this our Island Let us read saith he Varroes bookes of Antiquities and those of Sisinius Capito as also the Greeke writer Phlegon with the rest of the great learned men and we shall see all the Islands well neere and all the sea coasts of the whole world yea and the lands neere unto the sea to have beene taken up with Greeke Inhabitants who as I said before from the mountaines Amanus and Taurus even to the British Ocean possessed all the parts along the sea side And verily that the Greeks arrived in this our region viewed and considered well the scite and nature thereof there will be no doubt and question made if we observe what Athenaeus hath written concerning Phileas Taurominites of whom more anon who was in Britaine in the clx yeare before Caesars comming if we call to remembrance the Altar with an Inscription Vnto Vlysses in Greek letters and lastly if we marke what Pytheas before the time of the Romans time hath delivered in writing as touching the distance of Thule from Britaine For who had ever discovered unto the Greeks Britaine Thule the Belgicke countries and their sea coasts especially if the Greeks ships had not entred the British and German Ocean yea and related the description thereof unto their Geographers Had Pytheas thinke you come to the knowledge of sixe daies sailing beyond Britaine unlesse some of the Greeks had shewed the same Who ever told them of Scandia Burgos and Nerigon out of which men may saile into Thule And these names seeme to have been better knowne unto the most ancient Greeks than either to Plinie or to any Roman Whereupon Mela testifieth That Thule was much mentioned and renowned in Greek letters and Plinie likewise writeth thus Britaine an Island famous in the monuments and records both of the Greeks and of us By this meanes therefore so many Greek words have crept into the British French withall into the Belgicke or low-Dutch language And if Lazarus Bayfius and Budaeus do make their vant and glory in this that their Frenchmen have beene of
the manner is of Slaves during the Saturnalia to celebrate that festivall time in the habit of their Masters and so presently with willing hearts followed Plautius The forces being divided into three parts for feare lest if they arrived all in one place they might be put by their landing carried backe by a gale of wind found some trouble in their passage yet taking heart againe because as they sailed along there was seene a fire-drake in the Element shooting from the East the West they were conveied over into the Island and no man stopped them For the Britans supposing verily in regard of those things which I have related that they would not come had not assembled themselves and therefore without any conflict they lay hidden within bogs marishes and woods in hope by lingring delaies to wearie the Romans that they should be forced without any service exploited to retire hence like as it had befallen unto Iulius Caesar. Wherefore Plautius tooke great paines in seeking of them out After he had found them now they were not free States but ruled under divers Kings first he discomfited Caractacus afterward Togodumnus the sonnes of Cunobellinus for their father was deceased When these were fled part of the Bodunni who were subject to the Catuellani he received into his protection and having left a garrison there hee went forward to a certaine river but because the Britans thought the Romans could not possibly passe over without a bridge they lay encamped more carelesly on the farther side thereof Plautius therefore set the Germanes who were wont to wade through the most swift and violent rivers even in their very armour These comming upon the enemies at unawares hurt not a man of them but wounded the horses onely that drew their chariots who when they were troubled and disordered the men were not able to sit them Then sent hee Flavus Vespasianus who afterwards became Emperour and his brother Sabinus with him as Lieutenant who likewise having passed over the river surprised very many of the Barbarians and slew them Neither fled the rest away but the morrow after joyned battell wherein the victorie remained doubtfull untill such time as C. Sidius Geta at the very point to have beene taken prisoner by the enemies vanquished them so as that for his good service triumphall honours were granted unto him although he had not been Consull From thence the Barbarians retired themselves to the river Thames where it dischargeth it selfe into the sea and with the flowe thereof riseth high This river they soone passed over as being skilfull of such places as would affoord them firme footing and were passable fords And the Romans in pursuing them were in danger Soone after when the Germanes had swum over a second time whiles some of them passed over at a bridge higher up the river environing the Barbarians on every side they made a great slaughter of them but when unadvisedly they followed after the rest they fell upon blind bogs and lost many of their men Hereupon and for that the Britans by occasion of Togodumnus his death abated not their courage one whit but rather prepared themselves to fight the more fiercely in revenge of his death Plautius for feare went no farther but setting a guard to keep what he had gotten sent for Claudius having a warrant and commandement so to doe in case he were overlaid with any extraordinary violence For which expedition among much other Equipage Elephants also were gotten together and prepared Claudius advertised of these newes committed the affaires of the City and the souldiers likewise to the charge of Vitellius upon whom as also upon himselfe he had conferred a Consulship for six moneths Then went he downe in person by water from Rome to Ostra and so from thence sailed to Marshils and travelling the rest of the way partly by land and partly by sea came to the Ocean embarked crossed the channell into Britaine and went directly forward to his forces expecting him by the Thames side When he had received them into his owne charge and passed over the river he fought a set battell with the Barbarians assembled against his comming and obtained victory Then tooke he in Camalodunum the roiall seat of Cunobellinus and many thence he drave others upon their yeelding he tooke to mercy For these acts performed divers times he was stiled Imperator a thing directly against the Romanes custome for lawfull it is not in one war to assume that name oftner than once Furthermore Claudius disarmed the Britans and committed as well them to be governed as the rest to be subdued unto Plautius Himselfe made speede to Rome sending before him Pompeius and Silanus his sonnes in Law with tidings of this victorie Thus much Dio. Howbeit Suetonius reporteth that part of the Iland he tooke into his hands upon submission without any battell or bloodshed Sixteene daies or thereabout himselfe stayed in Britain in which time he remitted unto the Gentry and Nobility of the Britans the confiscation of their goods For which benefit of his they frequented his temple and adored him as a God Thus returned he to Rome in the sixt moneth after that he went forth from thence So great a matter it was and of such consequence to have conquered even so small a parcell of Britain that the Senate thereupon decreed in the honor of Claudius yearly Games triumphall Arches both in Rome and also at Gessoriacum in Gaul and a most honorable and stately triumph to the beholding whereof the governors of Provinces also yea and certaine banished persons were permitted to come into Rome a Navall coronet was fixed upon the looure of the Palace as it were the ensigne of the British sea subdued by him the Provinces brought in Crownes of gold and Gallia Comata one above the rest waighing 9. pounds and the hither part of Spaine another of 7. pound weight He mounted up into the Capitoll by the staires on his knees supported and heaued up by his sonnes in Law on either side He entred in triumphing wise the Adriaticke sea embarqued in a vessell more like to some exceeding great house than a ship Unto his wife Messalina was allowed by the Senate the highest place to sit in as also to ride in a Carroch or hanging coach After this he set forth triumphall plaies and games having taken upon him for that purpose the Consular office and authoritie The solemnities were exhibited at once in two Theatres and many times when hee was gone aside from the sight others had the charge thereof Horse runnings for the prize hee promised as many as those daies would admit Howbeit above ten there were not for betweene every course of horses Beares were killed champions performed their devoirs and choyce boies sent for out of Asia danced the warlike dance in armor Moreover upon Valerius Asiaticus Julius Silanus Sidius Geta and others in regard of this conquest hee heaped Triumphall
stand in feare of them whom they knew not A greater matter therfore it was to have passed over to the Britans than to have triumphed over the Britans And in another place Britaine also which lieth hid amidst the waves he gained to the Roman Empire by force of armes by the triumph over which Island Rome was thought to be more welthy Claudius reputed more wary and politick and Nero esteemed more fortunate Also in another passage which deserveth most of all to be put downe here The very Elements also have done homage to the name of the Romans to whom likewise even the round world hath sworne alleageance already which is enclosed and bounded with the Romane Empire and in one word is of many called the ROMANE WORLD For if we search into the truth the whole army it selfe is comprised within the Empire of the Romans upon which the Roman valour having gone forward still beyond the Ocean hath sought for it selfe another world and in Britaine an Island remote from the confines of Lands hath found out for a selfe another possession To conclude they who are denied the benefit not onely of the free burgesie of Rome but in manner also of all converse with men are directed and awarded thither there to dwell as persons banished out of the world The Ocean now hath reined up his bounds For the Romans know how to seeke into his inward secret parts And Iosephus in the person of Titus speaketh thus to the Iewes What greater wall and barre than the Ocean wherewith the Britans being fensed and inclosed doe yet adore the Romans forces Moreover as touching this argument that renowned Ioseph Scaliger in his Catalects hath saved and freed from rust and mouldinesse certaine verses of a most learned Poet though unknown which because they are not every where to bee found I will not thinke much of my paints to put down for they are as good as good may be Now that they be sundry Epigrams and therefore distinctly to be considered Iohn Obsopaeus the German a passing learned young man hath out of ancient manuscripts parchments very lately enformed me Ausonius nunquam tellus violata triumphis Ictatuo Caesar fulmine procubuit Oceanusque tuas ultra se respicit a●as Qui finis mundo est non erit imperio That Land whose honour never felt by Roman triumph wrong By dint la●e of thy thunder-bolt ô Caesar lay along The Ocean seeth beyond it selfe thine altars to adore That will not bound their Empire now which did the world before Victa priús nulli jam jam spectata triumph● Illibata tuos gens jacet in titulos Fabula visa diù medioque reconditaponto Libera victori jam modó colla dedit Euphrates Ortus Rhenus incluserit Arctos Oceanus medium venit in imperium A people erst untouch'd unfoil'd and conquered of none Late seene in triumph to thy stile hath title added one Though but a tale long time as hid in mid-sea past all view To Victors yoke now yeelded necke that never bondage knew How ever Rhene shuts up the North Euphrates Easterne land It skils not now that th' Ocean sea is whole at thy command Libera non hostem non passa Britannia Regem Aeternum nostro quae procul orbe jacet Foelix adversis sorte oppressa secunda Communis nobis tibi Caesar erit Britaine most free which enemie and Monarch never felt Far dissite from this world of ours wherein we ever dwelt An happie state in adverse times but wonne in prosperous dayes Sall be ô Caesar common now to thee and us alwaies Ultima cingebat Tibris tua Romule Regna Hic tibi finis erat religiose Numa Et tua Dive tuum sacrata potentia coelo Extremum citra constitit Oceanum At nunc Oceanus geminos interluit orbes Pars est imperij terminus ante fuit Thy Kingdomes all ô Romulus Tibris sometime did bound Past it ô Numa prince devout thou had'st no foot of ground And even thy power right sacred now and heavenly though it be O Caesar staied within precinct of thine owne Ocean sea But now the Ocean interflow●s two worlds by double shore And parcell of our Empire is which was the bound before Mars pater nostrae gèntis tutela Quirine Et magno positus Caesar uterque Polo Cernitis ignotos Latia sub lege Britannos Sol citra nostrum flectitur imperium Vltima cesserunt adaperto claustra Profundo Et jam Romano cingimur Oceano O father Mars ô Romulus Protector of our race And Caesars both late defied in heav'n who have your place The Britans erst unknown ye see the Latian lawes embrace And short of our large Seignory the Sun turnes in his race The furthest frontiers soone gave way when seas once opened were The Romane Ocean now it is wherein enclosed we are Opponis frustrà rapidum Germania Rhenum Euphrates prodest nil tibi Parthe fugax Oceanus jam terga dedit nec pervius ulli Caesareos fasces imperiumque tulit In vaine opposest thou for fence swift Rhene ô Germany Euphrates Parthian boots thee nought thou that in fight dost flie For th' Ocean is already fled which passable to none Hath now the Caesars government and Romes rule undergone Illa procul nostro semota exclusaque coelo Alluitur nostrâ victa Britannia aquá Semota vasto disjuncta Britannia Ponto Cinctaque inaccessis horrida littoribus Quam fallax aestu circuit Oceanus Quam fallax aestu circuit Oceanus Brumalem sortita plagam quà frigida semper Praefulget stellis Arctos in occiduis Conspectuque tuo devicta Britannia Caesar Subdidit insueto colla premenda jugo Aspice confundit populos imper via tellus Conjunctum est quod adhuc orbis orbis erat That Britain from our clime far set and thence excluded quite Conquerd of late is washed yet with water ours by right Britain I say far set apart and by vast sea disjoin'd Wall'd with inaccessible banks and craggy clifts behind Which father Nereus fensed had with billowes most invincible And Ocean likewise compassed with ebs and flowes as fallible Britain that hath a wintry clime alotted for her seat Where cold North-Beare shines alway bright with stars that never set Even at thy sight and first approach ô Caesar soone subdu'd Submitted hath her necke to beare strange yoke of servitude Behold the earth unpassable of nations makes commixtion What heretofore was world and world is now conjoined in one Now let Tacitus proceed in his Story Vntill this time all went well with Ostorius but soone after his fortune stood in dolefull termes either for that upon the displacing of Caractacus as if thereby all had beene subdued and the warre ended the Romans intended not so carefully their militarie service or because the enemies in compassion of so puissant a king were more fervently enflamed to revenge For they environed the Camp-master and those Legionary cohorts
Consular or Proconsular deputy but was counted Praesidialis and appropriate to the Caesars as being a prouince annexed unto the Roman Empire after the division of Provinces ordained by Augustus and had Propretors of their owne Afterwards when as Constantinus Maximus had set downe a new forme of Common-weale under a Prefect or Provost of Pretors degree of Gaule there was set over it a vicegerent and together with him in matters of war the Count or Earle of Britan an Earle or Count of the Saxony coast by Britan and a Duke or Generall of Britan besides Presidents Auditors or Receivers such others Moreover out of those 29. Legions which the Romans had appointed through their Imperial government three of them lay in garrison to restraine that Province to wit the second Legion Augusta the sixt Legion victrix the twentith victrix But this is meant of the time of Severus For before we learn out of Authors that other Legions there were and more in number And although Strabo writeth that there was neede of no more than one band of souldiers to the keeping of Britaine in subjection yet in the raigne of Claudius there were placed here the second Legion Augusta the ninth Legion Hispaniensis the fourteenth named Gemina Martia victrix Yea and about the time of Vespasian Josephus sheweth that foure Legions served in this Island Britaine saith hee is compassed about with the Ocean and almost as big as our world The Romans there inhabiting have brought it under their dominion and foure Legions doe keepe in subjection an Island peopled with so great a multitude And doubtlesse the standing guards and Camps of Legions and Roman souldiers were many times the Seminaries as it were and Seed-plots of Cities and townes as in other provinces so also in this our Britan. Thus was the yoke of subjection laid upon the Britans first by a garrison of souldiers which alwaies with terror were ready to command the Inhabitants afterwards by tribute and imposts and in that respect forced they were to have Publicans that is to say greedy cormorants and horsleeches who sucked their bloud confiscated their goods and exacted tributes in the name of the dead Neither were they permitted to use the ancient lawes of their country but magistrates were sent from the people of Rome with absolute power and commission to minister justice even in capital matters For Provinces had Propretors Lieutenants Presidents Pretors and Proconsuls Every citie also and State had their municipall magistrates The Pretor proclaimed yearely solemne sessions and Assizes at which he determined the waightier causes sitting aloft upon a high Tribunall seat and guarded with his Lictors about him proudly executed he his jurisdiction rods and whipping cheere were presented to the backs the axe and heading to the necks of the common people and every yeare they were forced to receive one new ruler or other allotted unto them Neither was this sufficient they maintained discord and disscention among them some also they favoured among the rest that they might have them to be the instruments of this their servitude This yoak of the Romans although it were grievous yet comfortable it proved and a saving health unto them for that healthsome light of Iesus Christ shone withall upon the Britans whereof more hereafter and the brightnesse of that most glorious Empire chased away all savage barbarisme from the Britans minds like as from other nations whom it had subdued For Rome as saith Rutilius Legiferis mundum complexa triumphis Foedere communi vivere cuncta facit Compassed the world with triumphs bringing lawes And all to live in common league doth cause And in another place speaking unto the same Rome most truly and in right elegant verses Fecisti patriam diversis gentibus unam Profuit injustis te dominante capi Dumque offers victis proprii consortia juris Vrbem fecisti quod prius orbis erat Thou hast of divers nations one entire country framed Happy it was for lawlesse folke that they by thee were tamed For offering use to them subdu'd of thine owne proper lore One civill state rhou mad'st of that which was wild world before For to say nothing of the rest of the Provinces the Romans having brought over Colonies hither and reduced the naturall inhabitants of the Island unto the societie of civill life by training them up in the liberall Arts and by sending them into Gaule for to learne perfectly the lawes of the Romans whereupon Juvenal Gallia causidicos docui facunda Britannos Gaule eloquent of Britans hath good pleading lawyers made governed them with their lawes and framed them to good manners and behaviour so as in their diet and apparell they were not inferior to any other Provinces they furnished them also with goodly houses and stately buildings in such sort that the reliques and rubbish of their ruines doe cause the beholders now exceedingly to admire the same and the common sort of people doe plainely say these Roman workes were made by Giants whom in the North parts they use to call in their vulgar tongue Eatons for Heathens if I be not deceived or Ethnicks Certes they are works of exceeding great admiration and sumptuous magnificence but especially the Picts wall whereof I will write more in due place and those Causeies throughout the whole land a wonderfull piece of worke what with dreining and drying up the meres in some places and what with casting up banks where low vallies were in others so ●ensed and paved with stone and withall of that breadth that they can well receive and with roome enough waines meeting one the other Now what manner of Causeies these were let Gallene tel you The waies quoth he Trajanus repaired by paving with stone or raising with bankes cast up such pieces of them as were moist and myrie by stocking up and ridding such as were rough and overgrowne with bushes and briers by making bridges over rivers that could not bee waded through where the way seemed longer then needed by cutting out another shorter if any where by reason of some steepe hill the passage were hard and uneasie by turning it aside through easier places now in case it were haunted with wild beasts or lay wast and de●ert by drawing it from thence thoough places inhabited and withall by laying levell all uneven and rugged grounds But now adaies these of ours being dismembred as it were and cut one piece from another in some places by reason that the country people digge out gravell from thence and scarcely to bee seene yet elsewhere leading through pastures and by-grounds out of the rode way the bankes are so high that evidently they shew themselves These causeies or Street-waies the Romans called Vias Consulares Regias Praetorias Militares Publicas cursus publicos and Actus as it is to be seene in Ulpian and Julius Frontinus Ammianus Marcellinus termeth them Aggeres itinerarios publicos Sidonius Apollinaris Aggeres and Tellures
time as hee served in Britaine under Aurelian tooke to wife Helena daughter of Coelus or Coelius a British Prince on whom he begat that noble Constantine the Great in Britaine For so together with that great Historiographer Baronius the common opinion of all other writers with one consent beareth witnesse unlesse it be one or two Greeke authors of late time and those dissenting one from the other and a right learned man grounding upon a corrupt place of Iul. Firmicus Howbeit compelled he was by Maximian to put her away for to mary Theodora his daughter This is that Helena which in antike Inscription is called VENERABILIS and PIISSIMA AVGVSTA and for Christian piety for clensing Ierusalem of Idols for building a goodly Church in the place where our Lord suffered and for finding the Saving Crosse of Christ is so highly commended of Ecclesiasticall writers And yet both Iewes and Gentiles termed her by way of ignominy and reproach Stabularia because shee a most godly Princesse sought out the crib or manger wherein Christ was borne and in the place where stood that hostelry founded a Church Hereupon S. Ambrose They say that this Lady was at first an Inholder or Hostesse c. Well this good hostesse Helena hastned to Ierusalem and sought out the place of our Lords passion and made so diligent search for the Lords crib This good hostesse was not ignorant of that host which cured the wayfaring mans hurts that was wounded by theeves This good hostesse chose to be reputed a dung-farmer that she might thereby g●ine Christ. And verily no lesse praise and commendation goeth of her husband Constantius for his piety and moderation A man who having utterly rejected the superstition of the ungodly in worshipping divers gods willingly of himselfe acknowledged one God the Ruler of all things Whereupon to try the faith and beleefe in God of his owne Courtiers hee put it to their free choice either to sacrifice unto those gods and so to stay with him or els to refuse and depart But those that would depart rather than renounce and forsake their faith to God hee kept with him still casting off all the rest who he supposed would prove disloiall unto him seeing they had abandoned their beleefe in the true God This most noble and worthy Emperor in his last British expedition against the Caledonians and the Picts died at Yorke leaving behind him his sonne Constantine Emperor his successor and Caesar elect Some few daies before the death of Constantius his sonne Constantius rode from Rome to Yorke on post horses and the rest which were kept at the charges of the State hee maimed and lamed all the way as hee went because no man should pursue him and there he received his fathers last breath Whereupon an ancient Orator spake thus unto him Thou entredst this sacred place not as a competitor of the Empire but as heire apparant and ordained already and forthwith that fathers house of thine saw thee the lawfull successor For there was no doubt but that the inheritance duly belonged unto him whom the destinies had ordained the first begotten sonne unto the Emperor Yet for all that constrained in maner by the souldiers and especially by the meanes of Erocus King of the Almanes who by way of aid accompanied him advanced hee was to the Imperiall dignity The souldiers regarding rather the publike good of the common-wealth than following his affections invested him in the purple roabe weeping and setting spurs to his horse because hee would avoid the endeavor of the armie that called so instantly upon him c but the felicity of the common-wealth overcame his modesty And hereof it is that the Panegyrist crieth out in these words O fortunate Britaine and more happy now than all other lands that hast the first sight of Constantine Caesar And now Caesar at his very entrance having first pursued the reliques of that war which his father had begun against the Caledonians and other Picts and set upon those Britans more remote and the Inhabitants of the Ilands lying there the witnesses as one said of the Suns setting some of them hee subdued by force and armes others for you must thinke he aspired to Rome and higher matters by offering fees and stipends he allured and drew to be associates and there were besides of them whom of open enemies he made his friends and of old adversaries his very familiars Afterwards having vanquished the Frankners in Batavia and that with so great glory that he stamped certaine golden pieces of coine whereof I have seene one with the Image of a woman sitting under a Trophee and leaning with one hand upon a crossebow or a brake with this subscription FRANCIA and this writing about it GAVDIVM ROMANORVM Having also overthrowne the Barbarians in Germany won unto him the German and French Nations and levied souldiers out of Britaine France and Germany to the number in all of 90000. foot and 8000. horsemen hee departed into Italie overcame Maxentius who at Rome had challenged to himselfe the Empire and having conquered Italy and vanquished the Tyrant he restored unto the whole world the blessed gifts of secure libertie and as we find in the Inscription of an Antiquitie INSTINCTV DIVINITATIS MENTIS MAGNITVDINE CVM EXERCITV SVO TAM DE TYRANNO QVAM DE OMNI EIVS FACTIONE UNO TEMPORE IVSTIS REMP. ULTVS EST ARMIS that is By instinct of the divine power with great magnanimitie and the helpe of his owne armie at one time in the behalfe of the Common wealth he was by lawfull warre revenged as well of the Tyrant himselfe as of his whole faction Howbeit that he returned againe into Italy Eusebius implieth in these words Constantine quoth he passed over to the Britans enclosed on every side within the bankes of the Ocean whom when hee had overcome hee began to compasse in his mind other parts of the world to the end he might come in time to succour those that wanted helpe And in another place After he had furnished his armie with mild and modest instructions of pietie he invaded Britaine that he might likewise instruct those who dwell environed round about with the waves of the Ocean bounding the Suns setting as it were with his coasts And of Britan are these verses of Optatianus Porphyrius unto Constantine to be understood Omnis ab Arctois plaga finibus horrida Cauro Pacis amat cana comperta perennia jura Et tibi fida tuis semper bene militat armis Resque gerit virtute tuas populosque feroces Propellit ceditque lubens tibi debita rata Et tua victores sors accipit hinc tibi fortes Teque duce invictae sustollunt signa cohortes From Northern bounds the land throughout where bleak North-west winds blowen Lov 's lawes of peace right ancient and ever during knowen Prest alwaies in their loyaltie for service in thy right With valiant and
the Arians their heresie crept into Britaine wherein from the first yeares of the great Constantine a sweete concent and harmonie of Christ the head and his members had continued untill such time as that deadly and perfidious Arianisme like to a pestiferous Serpent from the other side of the sea casting up her venom upon us caused brethren dwelling together to be dis-joyned piteously one from another and thus the way as it were being made over the Ocean all other cruell and fell beasts wheresoever shaking out of their horrible mouthes the mortiferous poison of every heresie inflicted the deadly stings and wounds of their teeth upon this our countrey desirous evermore to heare some noveltie but holding nought at all stedfastly In favour of these Arians Constantius summoned foure hundred Bishops of the West Church to Ariminum for whom the Emperour by his commandement allowed corne and victuals But that was thought of the Aquitanes French and Britaines an unseemely thing refusing therefore that allowance out of the Emperours coffers they chose rather to live at their owne proper charges Three onely out of Britaine for want of their owne had maintenance from the State refusing the contribution offered unto them from the rest reputing it more safe and void of corruption to charge the common treasure than the private state of any person After this when Constantius was departed this world Julianus that Apostata who had taken upon him the title of Augustus against Constantius first drave out Palladius who had been master of Offices into Britaine and sent away Alphius who had governed Britan as Deputy Lieutenant to reedifie Jerusalem but fearefull round balles of flaming fire breaking forth neere unto the foundations skarred him from that enterprize and many a thousand of Jewes who wrestled in vaine against the decree of God were overwhelmed with the ruines This dissolute Augustus and in his beard onely a Philosopher feared as hath erewhile been said to come and aid the poore distressed Britans and yet from hence he carried out every yeare great store of corne to maintaine the Roman garrisons in Germany When Valentinian the Emperour steered the helme of the Roman Empire what time as through the whole world the trumpets resounded nothing but the warlike Al Arme the Picts Saxons Scots and Attacots vexed the Britans with continuall troubles and annoyances Fraomarius then King of the Almanes was translated hither and by commission made Tribune or Marshall over a band of the Almanes for number and power in those daies highly renowned to represse the incursions of those barbarous nations Neverthelesse Britaine was through the generall conspiracie of those Barbarians afflicted and brought to extreme distresse Nectaridius Comes or Lieutenant of the maritime tract slaine and Bucholbaudes the Generall by an ambush of the enemies circumvented The intelligence of which occurrences when it was brought unto Rome with great horror the Emperour sent Severus being even then Lord High Steward of his houshold to redresse what was done amisse in case his hap had beene to have seene the wished end who being within a while after called away Iovinius went to the same parts sent backe Proventusides in post minding to crave the puissant helpe of an armie For they avouched than the urgent necessary occasions required so much At the last so many and so fearefull calamities were by daily rumors reported as touching the same Iland that Theodosius was elected and appointed to make speed thither a man of approved skill in warlike affaires most fortunatelie atchieved who having levied and gotten unto him a couragious company of young gallants to furnish as well Legions as cohorts put himselfe in his journey with a brave shew of confidence leading the way At the same time the Picts divided into two nations the Dicalidones and Vecturiones the Attacots likewise a warlike people and the Scots ranging in divers parts did much mischiefe where they went As for the cohorts of Gaule the Frankners and Saxons confining upon them brake out and made rodes where ever they could either by land or sea and what with driving booties with firing towns and killing poore captives made foule worke there To stay these wofull miseries if prosperous fortune would have given leave this most vigorous and valiant Captaine intending a voiage to the utmost bounds of the earth when he was come to the sea side at Boloigne which lieth divided from the opposite tract of land by a narrow streit ebbing and flowing where the water is wont to swell on high with terrible tides and againe to fall downe flat and lie like even plains without any harme of sailer or passenger from thence having sailed and leasurely crossed the said sea he arrived as Rhutupiae a quiet rode and harbour over against it From whence after that the Batavians Heruli Iovij and Victores companies confident of their strength and power who followed were come hee departed and marching toward London an old towne which the posteritie called Augusta having divided his troopes into sundry parts hee set upon those companies of roving and robbing enemies even when they were heavy loaden with bootie and pillage And having quickly discomfited those that drave before them their prisoners bound and cattell he forced them to forgoe the prey which the most miserable tributaries had lost In the end after full restitution made of all save onely some small parcels bestowed upon his wearied souldiers he entred most joyfully into the citie over set before with distresses and calamities but now suddenly refreshed so far forth as hope of recovery and safetie might effect and there being raised up with this luckie hand to adventure greater exploits and yet casting with himselfe projects promising securitie he staied doubtfull of the future event as having learned by the information of revolting fugitives and confession of captives that so great a multitude of sundry nations and a stiffe-necked people of so fell and fierce a disposition could not possibly be vanquished but by secret wiles and sudden excursions Finally after proclamations published and promises made of impunitie he summoned as well the traiterous runagates as many others that went with free pasport dispersed sundry waies to present themselves ready for service Vpon which summons given so soone as most of them were returned he as one pricked forward with so good a motive and yet held backe by heavie cares called for Civilis by name who was to rule Britaine as Deputie to bee sent unto him a man of a very quicke hastie nature but a precise keeper of Iustice and righteousnesse likewise for Dulcitius a redoubted Captaine and right skilfull in feates of armes Afterwards having gotten heart and courage to him he went from Augusta which in old time they called Londinum well appointed with industrious and considerate souldiers and so brought exceeding great succour to the ruinate and troubled estate of the Britaines gaining
God was minded to purge his family and to recure it thus infected with so great corruption of sinnes by hearesay onely of tribulation the winged flight as one would say of an headlesse rumour pierceth the attentive eares of all men giving notice of ancient enemies ready to arrive and upon their comming fully minded to destroy them utterly and after their wonted manner to possesse and inhabite the countrey from one end to another Yet for all this were they never the better but like unto foolish and senselesse horses resisting the bridle of reason and refusing to admit the bit as they say into their close shut mouth leaving the way to salvation narrow though it were ran up and downe at randum all in the broad way of all wickednesse which leadeth directly and readily to death Whiles therefore as Salomon saith the obstinate and stubborne servant is not amended with words scourged hee is for a foole and feeleth not the whip For loe a pestilent contagion bringing much mortalitie falleth heavily upon the foolish people which in a short space when the enemies sword was gone destroied so great a multitude of them as that the living were not able to bury the dead Neither verily were they the better for it that the saying of Esay the Prophet might in them also bee fulfilled And God calleth them quoth he to sorrow and mourning to baldnesse and sackcloth but behold they fell to killing of calves to slaying of rams Lo they went to eating and drinking and said withall Let us eate and drinke for to morrow wee shall die And why the time drew neere wherein their iniquities like as those in times past of the Amorites should come to the fulnesse For they fall to consult what was the best and most convenient course to be taken for to represse so cruell and so many invasions of the forenamed nations with the booties which they raised Then all the Counsellors together with the proud tyrant become blinded and bewitched devising such a protection nay a destruction rather of their country as this namely that those most fierce Saxons a people foully infamous odious both to God and man should be let into this Island as one would say wolves into the sheep-folds to repulse forsooth and beat backe the Northern nations Than which I assure you nothing was ever devised and practised more pernicious nothing more unhappy unto this land O mist of sense and grossest understanding that ever was O desperate dulnesse and blind blockishnesse of mind Those whom in their absence they were inclined and given to dread more than very death now of their owne record these foolish Princes of Egypt entertained as I may say under the roofe of one house giving as hath beene said fond-foolish counsell unto Pharao Then rushed forth out of the barbarous Lionesses den a Kennell of whelps in three Vessels called in her language Cyulae that is Keeles and in our Latine tongue Longae naves under full saile carried with the wind of lucky sure presaging auguries whereby fore-prophesied it was unto them that for 300. yeares they should possesse and hold that land as their countrey unto which they directed their course and for an hundred and twentie that is the one moity of the said space oftentimes waste and depopulate the same These being put on shore first in the East-part of the Island and that by commandement of this infortunate tyrant set fast their terrible pawes and clawes there pretending unto the Islanders defence of their countrey but more truely intending the offence thereof unto which whelpes the foresaid dam the Lionesse finding that their first setting foote and marching forward sped well sends likewise a greater rabble of worrying freebooters which being arrived here in Flotes conjoyned themselves with the former misbegotten crew From hence it is that the shoot-grifts of iniquitie the root of bitternesse and virulent plants due to our deserts sprout and put forth in our soile proudly bud branch leafe Well these barbarous Saxons thus admitted into the Island obtaine allowance of victuals and wages as for douty souldiers and such as would endure hard service and much hazard for so they falsly beare men in hand in defence of their good hosts and friends for their kind entertainment Which being given unto them a long time stopped as wee say the dogs mouth Howbeit afterward they complaine that their monthly wages was not well paid them devising of purpose colourable occasions of quarrell protesting and threatning that unlesse they might feele more munificence powred and heaped upon them they would with the breach of covenant spoile and waste the whole Island throughout And without further delay they second these threats with very deeds for the cause of deserved revenge for precedent wickednesse was still nourished the fire kindled and set a flaming by these prophane men from sea to sea ceased not to consume all the cities and countreys bordering there about untill such time as burning well neere all the inland soile of the Island it licked up with a red flaming and terrible tongue all unto the westerne Ocean In this violent furious invasion comparable to that of the Assyrians in old time against Iuda is fulfilled also in us according to the historie that which the Prophet by way of sorrowfull lamentation uttereth They have burnt with fire thy Sanctuarie they have polluted in the Land the Tabernacle of thy name And againe O God the Gentiles are come into thine heritage they have defiled thy holy Temple c. In such wise as all the Colonies by the force of many engines and all the Inhabitants together with the Prelates of the Church both Priests and People by drawne sword glittering on every side and crackling flame of fire were at once laid along on the ground yea and that which was a piteous spectacle to behold in the midst of the streets the stone workes of turrets and high walles rent and torne in sunder from aloft the sacred altars and quarters of carcases covered with imbossed works of imagerie of a bloudy hue were seene all blended and mixed together as it were in a certaine horrible wine-presse neither was there any Sepulcher at all abroad save onely the ruins of buildings and the bowels of wild beasts and fowles When we shall read these reports let vs not be offended and displeased with good Gildas for his bitter invectives against either the vices of his owne countrey-men the Britans or the inhumane outrages of the barbarous enemies or the insatiable crueltie of our Fore-fathers the Saxons But since that for so many ages successively ensuing we are all now by a certaine engraffing or commixtion become one nation mollified and civilized with Religion and good Arts let us meditate and consider both what they were and also what wee ought to be lest that for our sinnes likewise the supreame Ruler of the world either translate other nations hither when wee are first rooted out
Caledonian advanc'd and though no barre Staid him but that the Scots and Picts with Saxons he subdu'd c. I cannot chuse but with another Poet crie out in this wise Sit nulla fides augentibus omnia Musis These Poets love to over-reach Beleeve them not when so they teach For Caesar who is prodigall in his owne praise would never have concealed these exploits if he had ever performed them But these men seeme not unlike to those good honest and learned writers in our age who whiles they patch together an historie of Caesar write forsooth how he subdued the Franks in Gaule and the English men in Britaine whereas in those daies the names of English and French were not so much as heard of either in the one or the other country as who many ages after came into these Regions That the Pictones of Gaule and our Picts were both one Nation I dare not with Ioannes Picardus avouch seeing the names of the Pictones in Gaule was even in Caesars time very ri●e and much spoken of and for that our Picts were never called Pictones yet am I not ignorant how in one onely place of the Panegyrist among all the rest through the negligence of the copier there was foisted in Pictonum in stead of Pictorum SCOTI AMong the people of Britaine after Picts the SCOTISH Nation by good right challenge the next place concerning whom before I speake ought for feare lest evill willers frowardly peevish should calumniously misconsture those allegations which I simply ingenuously and in all honest meaning shall heere cite out of ancient writers as touching Scots I must certifie the Reader before hand that every particular hath reference to the old true and naturall Scots onely Whose of-spring are those Scots speaking Irish which inhabite all the West part of the Kingdome of Scotland now so called and the Islands adjoyning thereto and who now adaies be termed high-High-land men For the rest which are of civill behaviour and bee seated in the East part thereof albeit they beare now the name of Scottish-men yet are they nothing lesse than Scots but descended from the same Germane originall that wee English men are And this neither can they chuse but confesse nor we but acknowledge being as they are teamed by those above said High-land men Sassones as well as we and using as they doe the same language with us to wit the English-Saxon different onely in Dialect a most assured argument of one and the same originall In which regard so farre am I from working any discredit unto them that I have rather respectively loved them alwaies as of the same bloud and stocke yea and honoured them too even when the Kingdomes were divided but now much more since it hath pleased our Almightie and most mercifull God that we grow united in one bodie under one most Sacred head of the Empire to the joy happinesse welfare and safetie of both Nations which I heartily wish and pray for The beginning and Etymologie of the Scotish Nation like as of other neighbour nations round about is so full of obscuritie and lies over-spred under the mist of darkenesse in such sort that even Buchanan himselfe though otherwise a man of a very deepe insight either hath seene little therein or seene to himselfe alone for in this point he hath come short of all mens expectation Whereupon I have forborne a long time to take this enterprize in hand lest with others in admiring fables I should full sweetly please my selfe and fall into folly For a man may with as great probability derive the Scots pedigree from the Gods as from Scota that supposed and counterfeit daughter of the Aegyptian King Pharaoh wedded forsooth unto Gaithelus the sonne of Cecrops founder of Athens But as this conceite arising from the unskilfulnesse of Antiquitie is of the better sort of ingenuous Scots rejected so that other opinion of later daies drawne without all sense from a Greeke fountaine that Scots should bee so called as it were 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Obscure I utterly disallow and condemne as a device of envious persons to the slanderous reproach of a famous and valiant Nation Neither doe all men like the derivation of our Florilegus namely that Scots were so called because they came of a confused mingle-mangle of divers nations And yet I cannot but marvell whence Isidorus had this The Scots saith he take their name in their owne proper tongue of their painted bodies for that they are marked with sharpe yron pricks and inke and so receive the print of sundry shapes Which also Rabanus Maurus in the very same words doubtlesse out of him doth testifie in his Geographie to Ludovicus ●ius the Emperour which is to be seene in the Librarie of Trinitie Colledge in Oxford But seeing that Scotland it selfe hath of her owne people such as might very well fetch their beginning from the inmost record of Antiquitie and thereby best of all advance the glory of their Country in case they would wholly set their minds and bestow their carefull diligence for a time in this argument I will point only with my finger to the fountaines from whence haply they may draw the truth and lay before them certaine observations which I would wish them to marke and consider more diligently for my selfe will in this matter play the Scepticke and affirme nothing And first touching their originall and then of the place from whence they removed and came over into Ireland For certainely knowne it is that out of Ireland an Isle inhabited in old time by Britans as shall in due place be proved they passed into Britan and what time as they were first known unto writers by this name seated they were in Ireland For Claudian the Poet hath written of their irruptions into Britaine in these verses Totam cum Scotus Hibernem Movit infesto spumavit remige Thetis What time the Scots all Ireland stir'd offensive armes to take And with maine stroke of enemies ores the sea much fome did make And also in another place Scotorum cumulos flevit glacialis Hiberne And frozen Ireland heapes of Scots bewail'd with many a teare Orosius likewise writeth thus Ireland is peopled with Scotish Nations Gildas calleth Scots Irish Spoilers And Beda The Scots that inhabite Ireland an Isle next unto Britaine as also elsewhere Yea and in the daies of Charles the Great Eginhardus in expresse words calleth Ireland The Isle of Scots Moreover Giraldus Cambrensis That the Scottish nation saith he is descended out of Ireland the affinitie as well of their Language as of their apparell of their weapons also and of their manners even to this day doe sufficiently prove But now to come unto the points which I would have the Scots throughly to weigh For as much as they which are right and naturall Scots acknowledge not this name of Scots but otherwise call themselves Gaoithel Gael and Albin seeing also that very many
of the Romans helpe For the people of Rome after that the Emperour Martial was by his souldiers killed being sore tired out with forraigne warres was not able to assist their friends with supply of accustomed aides Yet neverthelesse the Romanes having built a mightie peece of worke for the defence of the Countrey reaching betweene the confines from sea to sea where it was thought that the enemies would assaile the Inhabitants left the Land But no difficultie it was for the enemie fiercely bent and alwaies ready to wage warre especially where they deale with a nation feeble and unable to make warlike resistance to destroy the said worke Therefore hearing by report of the worthy and fortunate exploits atchieved by the Saxons they send an humble Embassage to require their helping hand and so the Embassadors having audience given them came forth and spake as followeth Most noble Saxons The poore and distressed Brets out-toiled and over-tired by the many incursions of their enemies hearing the fame of those victories which yee have valorously atchieved have sent us suppliants unto you craving that yee would not denie us your helpe and succour A large and spatious Land plentifull and abundant in all things they yeeld whollie to be at your devotion and command Hitherto have we lived liberally under the patronage and protection of the Romanes after the Romans we know none of more prowesse than your selves and therefore wee seeke for refuge under the wings of your valour So that we may by your puissant vertue and armes be found onely superiour to our enemies what service soever ye impose upon us willing we are to abide the same To this petition the Peeres and Nobles of the Saxons briefly made answere in this wise Know yee that the Saxons will be fast friends unto the Brets and prest at all times both to assist them in their necessitie and also to procure their wealth and commoditie With joy returne these Embassadours home and with this wished for tidings make their countrey-men more joyfull Hereupon according to promise an armie sent into Britaine and joyfully received in short time freeth the Land from the spoiling enemies and recovered the countrey unto the behoofe of the Inhabitants For the performance hereof required no great labour the enemies who had long since heard of the Saxons were terrified with the verie fame that was bruited of them so that their very presence drave them farre off For these were the nations that troubled the Brets namely Scots and Pehits against whom the Saxons whiles they maintaine warres received of the Brets all things necessary They abode therefore in that country a good while making use in civill sort of the Brets friendship reciprocally But so soone as the Chieftaines of the armie saw the countrey to be large and fertile and withall the hands of the Inhabitans slow to practise feats of armes and considered therewith that themselves and the greatest part of the Saxons had no certaine place to seat themselves in they send over to call unto them a greater power and more forces Thus having concluded peace with the Scots and Pehits they rise all together in common against the Brets drive them out of the countrey and divide the Land at their pleasure as if it were their owne Thus much Witichindus The originall and Etymologie of the Saxons like as of other nations not onely Monkes ignorant as they were in learned antiquitie but also latter Writers being men of some exact and exquisite judgment have enwrapped with forged and fained fables Some derive them and their name from Saxo the sonne of Negnon and brother of Vandalus others from their stonie nature some from the remaines of the Macedonian armie others of certaine knives whereupon was made that rhyme in Engelhusius Quippe brevis gladius apud illos Saxa vocatur Vnde tibi nomen Saxo traxisse putatur For Sax with them and Short-sword is the same From whence it 's thought the Saxon tooke his name But Crantzius deriveth them from the Catti in Germanie and that learned Capnio from the Phrygians Of these let every man follow which he liketh best For such conjectural opinions as these I will not labour to disproove Howbeit that conceit of the best learned Germans may seeme worthy of acceptance and to bee preferred before the rest who suppose that the Saxons descended from the Sacae a most noble Nation and of much worth in Asia and so called as one would say Sacosones that is the sonnes of the Sacae and that out of Scythia or Sarmaria Asiatica they came in companies by little and little together with the Getae Suevi Daci and others into Europe Neither is this opinion of theirs improbable which fetcheth the Saxons out of Asia wherein mankind was first created and multiplied for besides that Strabo writeth how those Sacae as before time the Cimerij made invasions into countreys which lay farre off and termed a part of Armenia after their owne name Sacacena Ptolomee also placeth the Sassones Suevians Massagetes and Daci in that part of Scythia and Cisner observeth that these Nations retained the same vicinitie or neighborhood in a manner in Europe which was among them in former times when they were in Asia Neither is it lesse probable that our Saxons descended from these Sacae or Sassones in Asia call them whether you will than the Germanes from those Germanes in Persia of whom Herodotus maketh mention which they themselves after a sort doe affirme by reason of the affinitie of their Language for that singular Scholer Ioseph Scaliger sheweth that these words Fader Moder Tutchter Band and such like are at this day found in the Persian tongue in the same sence as we use Father Mother Brother Daughter and Bond. But when the Saxons began first to bee of any name in the world they had their abode in Cimbrica Chersonesus which wee now call Denmarke wherein Ptolomee placeth them who was the first author as far as I find that mention them For we should not indeed read Saxones as it is in some bookes but more truly Axones in that verse of Lucan Longisque leves Axônes in armis And Axons in side armour light and nimble Out of this Cimbrica Chersonesus in the time of Dioclesian they with the Frankes their neighbours troubled our coasts and the seas with Piracie in so much as for the defence of the countrey and to repell them the Romanes made Carausius their Generall Afterwards they having passed over the river Albis part of them by little and little gat footing within the seat and territorie of the Suevians where now is the Dukedome of Saxonie and part of them bestowed themselves in Frisland and Holland which now the Frankes had quite forsaken For those Frankes who before time had inhabited those inmost Fennes of Frisland whereof some by overflowes and flouds are growne to be that sea which at this day they call Zuider-sea and possessed
themselves of Holland then called Batavia under Constantius Chlorus Constantine the Great and his sonnes being received as Liege-men and translated from thence to inhabite the waste and desert countries of Gaule either by the swords point making way into more plentifull regions or else as Zosimus writeth driven out by the Saxons departed out of Holland From which time all the people bordering upon that sea coast in Germanie which were men of warre and professed Piracie as before they grew to be Franci so now they became clepid Saxons those Nations I meane which inhabite Iutland Sleswicke Holst Ditmarse the Bishopricke of Breme the countie of Oldenburgh both East and West Frisland and Holland For the nation of the Saxons as Fabius Quaestor Ethelward himselfe descended of the Saxons royall bloud writeth was wholly all that upon the seacoast from the river Rhene unto the citie Donia and which now is commonly called Dane-Marc Which author that I may acknowledge by whom I have profited master Thomas Allen of Oxford an excellent man and one endued with very many singular Arts first found out and of his courtesie imparted the same unto me with many others Out of this Maritime tract the Saxons fleshed now with the slaughter of many Romanes brake many times into the Romans provinces and for a great while annoied this Iland untill Hengist himselfe came Who out of Batavia or Holland sailed into Britaine and built that Castle of Leiden in Holland as not onely the Hollanders Annals doe testifie but also that noble Ianus Dousa a man of excellent wit and learning who of that Castle versifieth thus Quem circinato maenium ut ambitu Sic arcuatis fornicibus novum Putatur Hengistus Britanno Orbe redux posuisse victor Which Hengist by report when he Return'd from Britaine with victorie Built new with walles in compasse round And on vaults arched under ground The Iutae who had that name as many thinke from the Gutes Getes or Gothes for in a manuscript booke we read Geatun did for certaine inhabite the upper part of Cimbrica Chersonesus which still the Danes call Iuitland descended haply of those Guttae whom Ptolomee hath placed in Scandia whose habitation this day is called Gothland But take heede you thinke not with Iornandes that this was the native country of those Gothes who with victorious conquests over-ran all Europe for the most ancient and best approoved writers have recorded unto us that they dwelt beyond the river Ister fast by Pontus Euxinus and were before time called Getae But in what place the Angles were seated it is a question neither are all men of one opinion Most authors place them in Westphalia where Engern standeth and where the Suevians whom Tacitus and Ptolomee make mention of had their abode whom I am willing to beleeve if wee speake of the age of Tacitus but I suppose that from thence they came downe to the tract by the sea side Others seeke for them in Pomerania where the towne Angloen flourisheth But seeing these reach into the more inland parts of Germany far from our seas surely we must seek for some other seat of our Angles or Englishmen which Beda willed me to looke for between the Saxons and Iutes The Angles quoth he came out of that countrey which is called Angulus and is reported from that time to lie waste betweene the Provinces of the Saxons and Iutes Now seeing that between Iuitland and Holsatia the ancient countrey of the Saxons there is a little Province in the Kingdome of Dania named at this day Angel beneath the citie Flemsburg which Lindebergius in his Epistles calleth Little Anglia I dare affirme that now at length I have found the place of our ancestors habitation and that from thence the Angles came into this Iland And to averre this the more confidently I have good warrant from the authoritie of that ancient writer Ethelwardus whose words be these Old Anglia is sited between the Saxons and the Giots they have a capitall towne which in the Saxon tongue is named Sleswic but the Danes call it Haithby In which verie place Ptolomee seemeth to set the Saxons So that a Poet of the middle time sung not untunably in this manner Saxonia protulit Anglos Hoc patet in lingua niveoque colore That Englishmen from Saxons draw descent Their colour white and tongue make evident Of these Angles some part having passed forward into the inmore quarters of Germanie being blended with the Longobards and the Suevians went as farre as Italie and are thought to have left their footing in Engelheim the native countrey of Charles the Great Ingolstad Engleburg Englerute in Germanie and Angleria in Italie But what the reason or Etymologie is of the name I dare not definitively pronounce Away with that Angulus the son of Humblus and with Queene Angela whom foolish folke babble to have beene the founders of our Nation Neither thinke we that their name was imposed of Angulus that is An angle or corner as if it were a corner of the world as some building upon that stale verse seeme to hold Anglia terra ferax fertilis angulus orbis Insula praedives quae toto vix eget orbe England a fruitfull angle is without the world so wide An Iland rich that hath small need of all the world beside Neither doth Goropius his conjecture deserve credit but rather a smile which deriveth Anglos that is Englishmen from Angle that is A fishing rod or a Fish-hooke because saith he they hooked all unto them and were as we say Good Anglers But he that seeth the Etymologie of Engelbert Englehard and such like Dutch names may see perhaps the originall of Angli also Moreover it may seeme out of Procopius that the Frisones likewise came with others into Britaine The text whole as it lieth for that the booke is not commonly extant in print I will not thinke much here to set downe even as Franciscus Pithaeus a singular good man and in all sorts of Antiquitie most skilfull hath exemplified it unto me out of the Kings Library in Paris 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 That is according to my grosse translation thus The Iland Britaine three most populous nations doe inhabite which have everie one their severall King to rule them and these Nations be called Angili Frisones and after the name of the very Iland Britones Now they seeme to be so great a multitude of people that every yeere a mightie number of them with their wives and children flit from thence unto the Franks and they give them entertainment in that part of their Land which seemeth most desert above the rest and hereupon men say they challenge unto themselves the verie Iland And verily not long since when the King of the Franks sent certaine of his people in Embassage to Constantinople unto the Emperour Iustinian he sent withall some English pretending ambitiously that this Iland was under his
already into the hearts of all nations in manner that are Behold in one faith he hath conjoined the limits of East and west Behold I say the very British tongue which could nought else but rudely bray Barbarous words long since began in the land of God to resound the Hebrew Allelu-jah And in his Epistle to Augustine himselfe Who is able heere to shew sufficiently what great joy is risen up in the hearts of all the faithfull for that the nation of Englishmen by the operation of God almightie his grace and the labour of your brotherhood after the darknes of errours were chased and driven away is illuminated with the light of holy faith for that with most sincere devotion they now spurne and tread idols under their feete who beforetime in superstitîous feare lay prostrate before them In an old fragment also written in that age thus we read Augustine upon one day of Christs Nativitie which with the universall glorie of the Englishmen is for ever celebrated did regenerate by lively Baptisme above ten thousand men besides an innumerable multitude of women and young children But what a number of Priests and other holy orders besides could be sufficient to wash such a sort of people Having hallowed and blessed therefore the river called in English Swale the Archbishop Augustine commanded by the voice of Criers Maisters that the people should enter the river confidently two by two and in the name of the Trinitie baptize one another by turnes Thus were they all borne againe with no lesse miracle than in times past the people of Israel passed over the red Sea divided and likewise Iordan when it turned backe for even so they were transported to the banke on the other side and notwithstanding so deepe a current and chanell so great and so divers differences of sex and age not one person who will ever thinke it tooke harme A great miracle no doubt but this miracle as great as it was a greater preeminence doth surmount in that all feeblenesse and infirmitie was laid off in that river whosoever was sick and deformed returned out of it whole and reformed O festivall spectacle for Angels and men to behold when so many thousands of a nation suing for grace came forth of one rivers channel as out of one mothers wombe and out of one poole so great a progenie sprung up for the celestiall and heavenly Citie Hereupon the most gracious Pope Gregorie with all the companies of Saints above breaking forth into joy could not conceale this but wrote unto Saint Eulogius the Patriarch of Alexandria that hee would most thankefully congratulate with him for so great an host baptized upon one Christmas day No sooner was the name of Christ preached but the English presently with such fervent zeale and devotion consecrated themselves unto Christ that they tooke incredible paines in propagating Christianitie in celebrating divine service performing all functions and duties of pietie building Churches and endowing them with rich livings so that there was not another region in all Christendome that could make reckoning of more monasteries richly endowed Yea divers Kings there were that preferred a religious and monasticall life before their Crowne and Kingdom So many holy men also this land brought forth which for their most firme profession of Christian religion constant perseverance therein and sincere pietie were canonized Saints that it gave place to no other Christian province in this behalfe And like as Britaine was called of that prophane Porphyrie a plenteous province of Tyrants so England might truely be named a most fruitfull Island of Saints Furthermore they applied their minds to the bringing in againe of the better kind of arts and sciences and sowed the seeds of Divinitie and good literature throughout all Germanie by the meanes of Winifridus Willebrodus and others which a German Poet sheweth in these verses Haec tamen Arctois laus est aeterna Britannis Quòd post Pannonicis vastatum incursibus orbem Illa bonas artes Graiae munera linguae Stellarumque vias magni sydera coeli Observans iterum turbatis intulit oris Quin se religio multum debere Britannis Servata latè circùm dispersa fatetur Quis nomen Winfride tuum quis munera nescit Te duce Germanis pietas se vera fidesque Insinuans coepit ritus abolere profanos Quid non Alcuino facunda Lutetia debes Instaurare bonas ibi qui foeliciter artes Barbariemque procul solus depellere coepit Quid tibi divinumque Bedam doctissimus olim Dum varias unus bene qui cognoverat artes Debemus Yet this immortall praise is due to Britain Northern Isle That when the world was overrun and wasted all the while By Pannonik invasions it did reduce in ure Those troubled countries with good arts also with knowledge pure Of Greeke tongue and observing still the stars in spacious skie And planets with their wandring waies taught them Astronomie For true religion eke preserv'd and sowne in many a land The world much bound to Britaine is and to her helpfull hand Thy name and gifts ô Winifride who knowes not since by thee The way was made in Germanie where faith and pietie First setting foote beganne to chase all rites profane away What ow I not to Alcuine now may eloquent Paris say Who happily went there in hand alone to plant a new Good arts and thence all barbarisme to banish far from view And unto thee for worthy Bede we are beholden much The only man for sundry arts his learned skill was such Peter Ramus saith moreover that Britaine was twice Schole-mistris to France meaning by the Druida● and Alcuinus whose industrie Charles the Great used especially in erecting the Universitie of Paris They brought also into Germanie military knowledge of Armes as well as learning and religion yea and which you will marvell at if wee may beleeve these words of Eginhardus they gave unto those Saxons their first Originall who now inhabite the Dukedome of Saxonie The nation of the Saxons saith he as Antiquities do record being departed from the English inhabiting Britaine sailing through the Ocean partly upon a desire they had and partly driven of necessitie to seeke where they might seat themselves arrived upon the coasts of Germanie and landed at a place called Haduloha what time as Theodericus King of the Franks warring upon Hirminfridus Duke of the Thuringers his Daughters husband cruelly with fire and sword wasted their land Now when as they had in two pight fields already tried the doubtfull fortune of battaile with lamentable slaughter of their people and uncertaine victorie Theoderich disappointed of his hope to be Master of the field dispatched Embassadors unto the Saxons whose Duke was Hadugato who having heard the cause of their comming and taken their promise that upon obtaining victorie they should cohabite together led forth an armie with them to aide Theodoricus By meanes of which forces valiantly
see And on the other Hoc Anglis signo Regem fatearis eundem By this a King to Englishmen acknowledge him to be Moreover as William of Malmesburie doth report In imitation of Caesars policy who expelled the Germans lying hidden within that huge forrest Ardenna and by many asallie from thence annoying his armie not by the helpe of his owne Romans but by the Gaules his confederates to this end that whiles strangers and aliens killed one another himselfe might triumph with their bloud-shed the very same course I say did William take with the English men For against certaine of them who upon the first battell of that infortunate man Harold were fled into Denmarke and Ireland and returned with a puissant armie in the third yeere after he opposed meere English forces and an English generall permitting the Normans to sit still and keepe holiday foreseeing heereby and providing for his owne great easement whether of them soever should have the better Neither was he in this point frustrate of his purpose For the English having thus a prettie while skuffeled and skirmished one with another in the end rendred up the entire Victorie to the King without his paines taking And in another place Having undermined and quite overthrowne the power of the Laimen he provided by a sure and irrevocable edict to suffer no Monke or Clerke of the English Nation to endevour for to get any dignitie much disagreeing herein from the clemencie and gentlenesse of King Cnuto in times past who gave unto those that he conquered all their honours entire And hence it came to passe that when hee was once dead the naturall Inhabitants of the countrey upon light occasions fell to driving out of strangers and recovered unto themselves their ancient right and freedome When he had brought this to passe above all things hee laboured to turne away the storme of the Danish wars that hung over his head and to purchase peace though it were with round sums of mony Wherein he used Adelbert Archbishop of Hamburgh as his Instrument For Adam Bremensis writeth thus Betweene Suen and the Bastard there was continuall strife about England although our Bishop being greased in the hand with Williams bribes would have concluded a firme peace betwixt the Kings Which may seeme also to have beene established for since that time England was never any whit afraid of the Danes And William verily betooke himselfe wholly to the defence and maintenance of his Imperiall dignitie and to governe the state by excellent lawes For as Gervase of Tilburie writeth When the renowned Conqueror of England King William had subdued the farther coasts of this Island under his dominion and throughly tamed the stomacks and hearts of rebels by terrible examples lest that from thenceforth they should licentiously run into errour and commit trespasse he determined to reduce his subjects under the obedience of positive and written Lawes Having therefore all the lawes of England laid before him according to the Tripartite Division whereby they were distinguished that is to say Merchenlag Denelag and Westsex-enlag when hee had rejected some of them and allowed of others he adjoyned thereto those Lawes of Neustria beyond the seas which seemed most effectuall to preserve the peace of his Kingdome Afterwards as mine Author Ingulphus saith who flourished in those daies He commanded every Inhabitant of England to doe him homage and to sweare fealtie to him against all men He tooke the survey and description of the whole Land neither was there an Hide of England through but he knew both the value and the owner thereof there was neither plash nor place but set it was in the Kings Roll and the rent revenue and profit thereof the very tenure of possession and possessour himselfe was made knowne to the King according to the credit and true relation of certaine Taxers who being chosen out of every country did put downe in writing the territorie properly belonging thereto And this Roll was called the Roll of Winchester and by the Englishmen for the generalitie thereof because it contained fully and exactly all the tenements of the whole Land named Domesday I have beene more willing to make mention of this booke because it is to be cited alleaged often times hereafter which booke also it pleaseth me to name Gulielmi librum Censualem that is The Tax-booke of William Angliae Notitiam that is The Notice of England Angliae commentarios Censuales that is The Taxe Register or Sessing booke of England and Angliae Lustrum that is the Survey of England But whereas Polydore Virgill writeth how William that Conqueror first brought in the Triall or Iudgement of twelve men there is nothing more untrue For most certaine it is and apparant by the lawes of Etheldred that it was in use many yeares before Neither hath he any cause to terme it a terrible Iudgement For these 12. free-borne and lawfull men are duely by order empannelled and called forth of the Neighbourhood these are bound by oath to pronounce and deliver up their Verdict de facto they heare the counsell pleading in courts on both sides before the Bench or Tribunall and the disposition of witnesses then taking with them the evidences of both parties they are shut up together and kept from meat drinke and fire unlesse haply some one of them be in danger of death thereby so long untill they be all agreed of the fact which when they have pronounced before the Judge hee according to right and law giveth his definitive sentence For this manner of triall our most sage and wise Ancestours have thought the best to finde out the truth to avoid corruption and cut off all partialitie and affections Now as touching martiall prowesse how much the Normans excelled therein let others tell this may suffice for me to have said thus much that being planted among most warlike nations they alwaies saved themseves not by obsequious basenesse but by force of armes and founded most noble Kingdomes in England and Sicilie For Tancrede nephew unto Richard the second of that name Duke of Normandie and his posteritie atchieved brave exploits in Italie and having compelled the Sarazens to flie out of Sicilie erected a Kingdome there Whereupon the Sicilian Historiographer doth freely acknowledge that the Sicilians are beholden unto the Normans for that themselves remaine still in their native soile live in freedome and continue Christians Likewise in the holy Land their martiall prowesse hath been seen with singular commendation Hence it is also that Roger Hoveden writeth in these termes Bold France having made triall once of the Normans warfare durst not peepe out Fierce England being conquered yielded as captive unto them Rich Apulia falling to the lot of their possession flourished a fresh Famous Ierusalem and renowned Antioch were both subdued by them And ever since their comming England as well for martiall honour as civill behaviour hath among the most flourishing Kingdomes of
Carleil containeth within it part of Cumberland and the Country of Westmerland To these you may adde the Bishopricke of Sodor in the Isle of Mona which commonly is called Man Among these the Archbishop of Canterburie hath the first place the Archbishop of Yorke the second the Bishop of London the third the Bishop of Durham the fourth the Bishop of Winchester the fifth the rest as they are consecrated or enstalled first so in prioritie they take the place Howbeit if any of the other Bishops happen to be Secretary to the King hee challengeth by his right the fift place Besides there are in England Deaneries xxvj whereof thirteene were ordained by Henrie the Eighth in the greater Cathedrall Churches after the Monks were thrust out Archdeaconries three skore Dignities and Prebends five hundred fortie foure Numbred also there are parish-churches under Bishops 9284 of which 3845 be Appropriat as I find in a Catalogue exhibited unto King Iames which here I have put downe underneath Now Appropriat Churches those are called which by the Popes authority comming betweene with consent of the King and the Bishop of the Diocesse were upon certaine conditions tied or as the forme runneth of our Law united annexed and incorporate for ever unto Monasteries Bishopricks Colledges and Hospitals endowed with small lands either for that the said Churches were built with in their Lordships and lands or granted by the Lords of the said lands Which Churches afterwards when the Abbaies and Monasteries were suppressed became Laye Fees to the great dammage of the Church   DIOECESES Parish-Churches Churches appropriated   Of Canterburie 257 140   Of London 623 189   Of Winchester 362 131   Of Coventrie and Lichfield 557 250   Of Sarisburie 248 109   Of Bath and Wels. 388 160   Of Lincoln 1255 577   Of Peter-burgh 293 91   Of Exceter 604 239   Of Glocester 267 125 In the Province of Canterburie in the Diocesse Of Hereford 313 166   Of Norwich 1121 385   Of Elie. 141 75   Of Rochester 98 36   Of Chichester 250 112   Of Oxford 195 88   Of Worcester 241 76   Of Bristoll 236 64   Of S. Davids 308 120   Of Bangor 107 36   Of Lhandaffe 177 98   Of S. Asaph 121 19   Peculiar in the Province of Canterburie 57 14   The summe of the Province of Canterburie 8●19 3303   Of Yorke 581 336   Of Durham 135 87 In the Province of Yorke Of Chester 256 101 Of Carlile 93 18   The summe of the Province of Yorke 1065 592   The totall Summe in both Provinces 9284 3845 Howbeit in the booke of Thomas Wolsey Cardinall digested and written in The yeere 1520. by Counties are reckoned 9407. Churches How this varietie should come I cannot say unlesse that in the former age some Churches were pulled downe and the Chappels which belong unto Parishes be omitted and others that are but bare Chappels counted in the number of Parish-churches Yet out of this booke of Wolsey have I put downe the number of Parish-churches to every Shire There were also in the reigne of Henrie the Eight I hope without offence I may speake the truth many religious places Monuments of our fore-fathers pietie and devotion to the honor of God the propagation of Christian faith and good learning and also for the reliefe and maintenance of the poore and impotent to wit Monasteries or Abbaies and Priories to the number of 645 of which when by permission of Pope Clement the seventh fortie were suppressed by Cardinall Wolseies meanes who then had begun to found two Colledges one at Oxenford the other at Ipswich straight waies about the xxxvj yeere of the reigne of the said Henrie the Eight a sudden floud as it were breaking thorow the banks with a maine streame fell upon the Ecclesiasticall State of England which whiles the world stood amazed and England groned thereat bare downe and utterly overthrew the greatest part of the Clergie together with their most goodly and beautifull houses For that leave which the Pope granted to the Cardinall the King with assent of the Parliament tooke to himselfe Whereupon in the yeere of our Lord 1536. all religious houses every one together with all their livings and revenewes as many I meane as might dispend by yeerely rent 200. pound or under and those amounted to the number of 376 were granted to the King And in the yeere next following under a faire pretence and shew of rooting out superstition all the rest together with Colledges Chanteries and Hospitals were left to the dispose and pleasure of the King At which time the religious houses remaining in number 605. were surveied valued or taxed Colledges there were besides those in the Vniversities 90. Hospitals 110. Chan●eries and free Chappels 2374. All which for the most part shortly after were every where pulled downe their revenues sold and made away those goods riches which the Christian pietie of the English nation had consecrated unto God since they first professed Christianity were in a moment as it were dispersed and to the displeasure of no man be it spoken prophaned THE STATES AND DEGREES of England AS touching the division of our Common-wealth it consisteth of a King or Monarch Noblemen or Gentry Citizens Free-borne whom we call Yeomen and Artisans or Handicraftsmen THE KING whom our ancestors the English-Saxons called Coning and Gynin● in which name is implied a signification both of power and skill and wee name contractly King hath soveraigne power and absolute command among us neither holdeth he his Empire in vassalage not receiveth his investure or c●stalling of another ●e yet acknowledgeth any superiour but God alone and as one said All verily are under him and himselfe under none but God onely Also he hath very many rights of Majestie peculiar to himselfe the learned Lawyers terme them Sacra sacrorum that is Sacred and Individua that is inseparable because they cannot be severed and the common sort Royall prerogatives which they to me The flowers of his Crowne in which respect they affirme that the regall materiall Crowne is adorned with flowers Some of these are by positive or written law others by right of custome which by a silent consent of all men without law prescription of ●ime hath allowed the King justly enjoieth and most deservedly considering that His watchfull care defendeth the state of all his painfull labour maintaineth the rest of all his spadious industry upholdeth the de●ights of all and his busie employment affordeth case to all But these are points of a lo●●ier discourse and not of the argument now in hand The second or next to the King is his first begotten sonne who like as among the Romans the heire apparant and assigned successour to the Empire was first entituled Princeps Iuventutis that is Prince of the youth and afterwards as flatterie did increase stiled by the name of Caesar Noble Caesar
Westminster The Abbat of S. Albans The Abbat of S. Edmonds-Bury The Abbat of Peterburgh The Abbat of S. Iohn of Colchester The Abbat of Evesham The Abbat of Winchelcomb The Abbat of Crouland The Abbat of Battaile The Abbat of Reding The Abbat of Abindon The Abbat of Waltham holy Crosse. The Abbat of Shrewsburie or Salop. The Abbat of Sircester The Abbat of S. Peters in Glocester The Abbat of Bardeney The Abbat of S. Bennets of Hulme The Abbat of Thorney The Abbat of Ramsey The Abbat of Hyde The Abbat of Malmesburie The Abbat of S. Marie in Yorke The Abbat of Selbey The Prior of Coventrie The Prior of The order of S. Iohn at Ierusalem who commonly is called Master of S. Iohns Knights and would be counted the first and chiefe Baron of England Vnto whom as still unto the Bishops By right and custome it appurtained as to Peeres of the Kingdome to be with the rest of the Peeres personally present at all parliaments whatsoever there to consult to handle to ordaine decree and determine in regard of the Baronies which they held of the King For William the first a thing that the Church-men of that time complained of but those in the age ensuing counted their greatest honor ordained Bishopricks and Abbaies which held Baronies in pure and perpetuall Alm●s and untill that time were free from all secular service to bee under military or Knights service enrolling every Bishopricke and Abbay at his will and pleasure and appointing how many souldiers he would have every of them to find for him and his successours in the time of hostility and warre From that time ever since those Ecclesiasticall persons enjoyed all the immunities that the Barons of the Kingdome did save onely that they were not to be judged by their Peeres For considering that according to the Canons of the Church such might not be present in matters of life and death in the same causes they are left unto a jurie of twelve men to be judged in the question of Fact But whether this be a cleere point in law or no I referre me to skilfull Lawyers Vavasors or Valvasors in old time stood in the next ranke after Barons whom the Lawyers derive from Valvae that is leaved dootes And this dignitie seemeth to have come unto us from the French For when they had soveraigne rule in Italy they called those Valvasores who of a Duke Marquesse Earle or Captaine had received the charge over some part of their people and as Butelere the civill Lawyer saith had power to chastise in the highest degree but not the Libertie of faires and mercates This was a rare dignity among us and if ever there were such long since by little and little it ceased and ended For in Chaucers time it was not great seeing that of his Franklin a good yeoman or Freeholder he writeth but thus A Sheriffe had he beene and a C●ntour Was no where such a worthy Vavasour Inferiour nobles are Knights Esquires and those which usually are called Generosi and Gentlemen Knights who of our English Lawyers be termed also in Latin Milites and in all nations well neere besides tooke their name of Horses for the Italians call them Cavellieni the Frenchmen Chevaliers the Germans Reiters and our Britans in Wales Margogh all of riding Englishmen onely terme them Knights by a word that in the old English language as also of the German signifieth indifferently a servitor or minister and a lusty young man Heereupon it commeth that in the Old written Gospels translated into the English tongue wee read for Christs Disciples Christs Leorning Cnyhts and else where for a Client or Vassall Incnyght and Bracton our ancient civill Lawyer maketh mention of Rad●nights that is to say serving horsemen who held their lands with this condition that they should serve their Lords on horsbacke and so by cutting off a peece of the name as our delight is to speake short I thought long since that this name of Knights remained with us But whence it came that our countreymen should in penning of lawes and in all writings since the Normans conquest terme those Knights in Latin Milites I can hardly see And yet I am not ignorant that in the declining time of the Roman Empire the Denomination of Milites that is Souldiers was transferred unto those that conversing neere about the Princes person bare any of the greater offices in the Princes Court or traine But if I have any sight at all in this matter they were among us at first so called who held any lands or inheritances as Tenants in Fee by this tenure to serve in the warres For those Lands were termed Knights Fees and those that elsewhere they named Feudatarij that is Tenants in Fee were here called Milites that is Knights as for example Milites Regis c. The Kings Knights Knights of the Archbishop of Canterburie Knights of Earle Roger of Earle Hugh c. For that they received those lands or manors of them with this condition to serve for them in the wars and to yeeld them fealty and homage whereas others who served for pay were simply called Solidarij and Servientes that is Souldiers and Servitors But these call them Milites or Equites whether you will are with us of foure distinct sorts The most honorable and of greatest dignitie be those of the Order of S. George or of the Garter In a second degree are Banerets in a third ranke Knights of the Bath and in a fourth place those who simply in our tongue be called Knights in Latin Equites aurati or Milites without any condition at all Of S. Georges Knights I will write in due place when I am come to Windsor Of the rest thus much briefly at this time Banerets whom others terme untruely Baronets have their name of a Banner For granted it was unto them in regard of their martiall vertue and prowesse to use a foure square ensigne or Banner as well as Barons whereupon some call them and that truly Equites Vexillarij that is Knights-Banerets and the Germans Banner-heires The antiquitie of these Knights Banerets I cannot fetch from before the time of King Edward the Third when Englishmen were renowned for Chivalrie so that I would beleeve verily that this honorable title was devised then first in recompence of martiall prowesse untill time shall bring more certainty of truth to light In the publicke records of that time mention is made among military titles of Banerets of Men at the Banner which may seeme all one and of Men at armes And I have seene a Charter of King Edward the Third by which he advanced Iohn Coupland to the State of a Baneret because in a battell fought at Durham hee had taken prisoner David the Second King of the Scots and it runneth in these words Being willing to reward the said Iohn who tooke David de Bruis prisoner and
used in old time before they tooke any enterprize in hand God grant me gracious good speed In the severall discourses of every of them I will declare as plainely and as briefly as I can who were their ancient Inhabitants what is the reason of their names how they are bounded what is the nature of the soile what places of antiquitie and good account are therein what Dukes likewise or Earles have beene in each one since the Norman Conquest And in this succession of Earles to confesse frankly by whom I have taken profit I doe willingly and justly acknowledge that Thomas Talbot a most diligent Clerke in the Records of the Tower a man of singular skill in our antiquities hath given me much light And begin I will at the farthest parts in the West that is to say at Cornwall and so passe over the other countries in order imitating herein Strabo Ptolomee and the most ancient Geographers who alwaies begin their description in the Westerne countries as being first from the Meridian DANMONII THat Region which according to the Geographers is the first of all Britaine and growing straiter still and narrower shooteth out farthest into the West and hath on the North side the Severne-Sea on the South the British and on the West the Vergivian or Westerne Ocean beating upon it was in ancient time inhabited by those Britaines whom Solinus called DVNMONII Ptolomee DAMNONII or as we find in some other copies more truely DANMONII Which name if it bee not derived from those ever-continuing mines of tinne in this tract which the Britans terme Moina may seeme to come of the dwelling there under hils For their habitation all over this Country is somewhat low and in valleys which manner of dwelling is called in the British tongue Dan-munith in which sense also the Province next adjoyning in like respect is at this day named by the Britans Duffneint that is to say Low valleys Now whether the OSTIDAMNII called also OSTAEI and OSTIONES of whom Strabo maketh mention out of Pithaeas of Marfiles be our Danmonij I wish the studious searchers of Antiquity would weigh with themselves and examine somewhat more diligently For seated they were by their report in the farthest parts of Europe toward the West Ocean over against Spaine not farre from the Isle Vxantissa now called Vshant Which particulars every one doe very well and in each point agree unto this Region of our Danmonij And seeing that those Ostiones be called by Artemidorus COSSINI as Stephanus in his Cities seemeth to note I wish likewise they would consider because these people are termed also Corini whether in stead of COSSINI we are not to read CORINI For we read Fusij for Furij and Valesij for Valerij And surely the Geographers have not so much as a glimps where to seeke these Ostidamnij and Cossini by the westerne Sea if they be hence excluded But the Country of this nation is at this day divided into two parts knowne by later names of Cornwall and Denshire whereof wee will speake in order CORNWALL COrnwall which also by later Writers is called Cornubia in Latin of all Britaine doth beare most Westward and is inhabited by that remnant of Britans which Marinus Scotus calleth Occidentales Britones that is Britaines of the West parts who in the British tongue for as yet they have not lost their ancient language name it Kernaw because it waxeth smaller and smaller in manner of an horne and runneth forth into the Sea with little promontories as they were hornes on every side For the Britaines call an horne Corn and hornes Kern in the plurall number although others would have Cornwall to take the name of one Corineus I know not what Companion of Brutus and doe call it Corinea according to this verse of a fabulous Poet Pars Corinea datur Corinaeo de duce nomen Patria deque viro gens Corinensis habet To Captaine Corineus part was given to hold by right Of him both coast Corinea and people Cornish height But no strange matter it is if a man search Antiquities for many places to have their denominations given them of such kind of scite as this In Crete and Taurica Chersonessus there bee promontories termed 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Rams Foreheads because they shoote forth into the sea after the fashion of Rams hornes Semblably Cyprus was of the Greekes in old time called Cerastis for that it butteth on the sea with promontories bearing out like hornes so that it is no marvell if the coast bee called Kernaw and Corn crookening inward as it doth like unto an horne and having divers smal capes and points sticking out as it were hornes Whereupon when in the heat of the Saxons warre many Britans retired themselves into this tract trusting to the naturall strength of the place for they knew that the waies by land were hard enough to bee passed through by reason of mountaines and crossed in divers places with armes of the Sea that sailing likewise there was combersome because the places were unknowne the Saxon being Conquerour who called all forraine things and aliens or strangers in their language 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 named the Inhabitants hereof 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Hereof sprang the Latin name Cornwallia and in the later age Cornubia and in some writers Occidua Wallia So farre it is off that it should be called Cornwallia of the Gaules that conquered it which some there bee that in flatterie of the French name and nation would uphold who if they were as quicke-sighted at home as they bee curious abroad might find that their Britaine lying upon the sea coast opposite to this country is so named of our Britan and that Cornovaille no small territorie therein which speaketh the same language that our Cornishmen doe tooke name of our countrey-men that passed over hence to dwell there For as these our Britaines of the West parts aided the Armorici of Gaule inhabiting in that tract in their warres against Caesar upon which occasion hee pretended a quarrell to invade Britaine and they afterwards comming thither as wee said before changed the name of Armorici and called it Britaine so in the foregoing ages readie they were and ever at hand to helpe those Britaines their country-men against the French and during the tempestuous troubles of the Danish warre some of them put over thither also and are thought to have left this name of Cornovaille behind them there But to leave that Cornovaille This our Cornwall as if nature made amends and recompence for the incroching in of the sea is for the most part raised on high with mountaines being in the vallies betweene of an indifferent glebe with which the Sea weede or reit commonly called Orewood and a certaine kind of fruitfull Sea-sand they make so ranke and battle that it is incredible The Sea coast is beautified with very many
they were seated in the nocke hole of the world after much satyricall sharpnesse came out with these round rhymes Non opus est ut opes numerem quibus est opulenta Et per quas inopes sustentat non ope lenta Piscibus stanno nusquam tam fertilis ora I need not here report the wealth wherewith enrich'd it is And whereby alwaies to sustaine poore folke it doth not misse No coast elsewhere for fish and tinne so plentious ywis And yet is Cornwall nothing happier in regard of the soile than it is for the people who as they were endued and adorned with all civilitie even in those ancient times For by reason of their acquaintance with merchants sailing thither for tin as Diodorus Siculus reporteth they were more courteous toward strangers so they are valiant hardie wel pitcht in stature brawny strong limmed such as for wrastling to speak nothing of that manly exercise fear of hurling the Ball which they use so farre excell that for slight and cleane strength together they justly win the prize and praise from other nations in that behalfe Moreover that Poet Michael when as in the excessive commendation of his country men hee had with gigging rimes resounded how Arthur in his battels gave them the honour to give the first charge he thus couragiously concludeth in rime Quid nos deterret si firmiter in pede stemus Fraus ninos superet nihil est quod non superemus What frighteth us if footing sure we have on steady ground Barre crafty sleights there is no force but we can it confound And hereof peradventure ariseth the report so generally received that Giants in times past Inhabited this countrey For Havillan the Poet who lived foure hundred yeares since in describing of certaine British Giants wrote pleasantly of Britaine and the Cornish Giants in this wise Titanibus illa Sed paucis famulosa domus quibus uda ferarum Terga dabant vestes cruor haustus pocula trunci Antra Lares Dumeta thoros coenacula rupes Praeda cibos raptus venerem spectacula caedes Imperium vires animos furor impetus arma Mortem pugna sepulchra rubus monstrisque gemebat Monticolis tellus sed eorum plurima tractus Pars erat occidui terror majorque premebat Te furor extremum Zephyri Cornubia limen A lodge it was to Giants fell though few of Titans brood Enthralled whose garments were raw hides of beasts full wood Their bloud they dranke but cups they made of hollow blocks and stocks Caves serv'd for cabins bushes for beds for chambers craggie rocks Prey slak'd their hunger rape their lust in murder tooke they Joy Force gave them rule and furie heart wrath weapons to annoy Fight brought thē death grieves were their graves thus groan'd the ground againe With mountain-Monsters Howbeit of them the number maine Did pester most the westerne tract more feare made thee agast O Cornwall utmost dore that art to let in Zephirus blast Now whether this firme and wel compact constitution of the Cornish-men which proceedeth from the temperature of heat and moisture is to bee referred unto the breeding-west wind and the Westerne situation thereof like as wee see that in Germanie the Batavians in France the Gascoines who be farthest Westward are the ablest and most valiant or rather to some peculiar and speciall reason of aire and soile it is not my purpose to search curiously Now let us treat of the Promontories Cities and Rivers whereof ancient writers have made mention For this is my principall project beginning at the furthest point and so surveying first the Southerne shore then the Northern and lastly the course of the river Tamara which severeth this countie from Devonshire The utmost Promontorie which lieth upon the Western Ocean and is distant 17. degrees and no more in the globe or surface of the earth from the Ilands called Azores is called by Ptolomee Bolerium and by Diodorus Belerium perhaps of the British word Pell which signifieth a thing most remote or farthest off by Ptolomee also the same is termed 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or ANTIVESTAEVM by the Britans I meane their Bardie onely or Poets Penringu●ed that is the Promontorie of Bloud For the Welsh Historians name it Penwith that is the Promontorie on the left hand The Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 For Steort with them betokeneth a peece of land shooting into the Sea and hereupon all that Hundred of Penwith at this day is called by borderers in their language Pen vo● las that is the end of the land and in the same sence we in English name it The lands end because it is the utmost part of the Iland toward the West And if this Promontorie were sometimes called Helenum as Volaterran and the late writers affirme it came not of Helenus K. Priams sonne but of Pen-Elin which ●ignifieth in the British tongue an Elbow as Ancon doth in Greeke And seeing that crooked and bending shores be termed of the Greekes Anc●nes as Elbows for so Plinie witnesseth of Ancona in Italie no absurditie is it at all that this crooked and bowing shore should by the Britans in the same sence be called Pen-elin and thereof that Latin name Helenum be derived But as touching this name Antivestaeum I was wont now and then to doubt whether it savoured not of some Greek originall For seeing it was a common and usuall thing with the Greeks to impose names upon places taken from the names of such as were opposite unto them not only in Greece it selfe where they have Rhium and Antirrhium but also in the Arabian gulfe where there is Bacchium and Antibacchium as also upon the gulf of Venice Antibarrium because it looketh towards Barrium lying over against it in Italie I searched diligently whether any place named Vestaeum lay opposite unto this our Antivest●um but finding no such thing I betooke my selfe againe to the British tongue neither yet can I here resolve my self But the Inhabitants doe suppose that this Promontorie heretofore ran further into the Sea and by the rubbish which is drawne out from thence the Mariners affirme the ●ame yea and the neighbor Inhabitants avouch out of I wote not what fable that the earth now covered there all over with the in-breaking of the Sea was called Lionesse In the utmost rocks of this Promontorie when at a low water they be bare there appeare veines of tin and copper and the people there dwelling report that there stood a watch-Tower upon it from whence by the light of burning fire there was a signe given unto Sailers no doubt ad speculam Hispaniae according as Orofius hath put downe in writing That the most high watch-towre of Brigantia in Gallicia a rare and admirable peece of worke was erected ad speculam Britannia that is if I well understand him either for the use of Mariners sailing out of Britaine toward Spaine or else over
against the watch-Towre of Britaine For no other place of this Iland looketh directly to Spaine Upon it there standeth now a little village named S. Buriens in old time Eglis Buriens that is The Church of Buriena or Beriena consecrated to Buriena a religious Irish woman For this nation alwaies honoured Irish Saints as tutelar patrons of their owne so all their Towns in manner they have consecrated unto them This village King Athelstan as the report goeth granted to be a priviledged place or Sanctuarie what time as he arrived as Conquerour out of the Iles of Sylly True it is that he built heere a Church and that under William the Conquerour there was heere a Colledge of Chanons unto whom the territorie adjoyning belonged Neere unto this in a place which they call Biscaw Woune are to bee seene nineteene stones set in a round circle distant every one about twelve foote from the other and in the very center there is one pitched far higher and greater than the rest This was some Trophee or monument of victorie erected by the Romans as probably may bee conjectured under the later Emperours or else by Athelstan the Saxon when he had subdued the Cornish-men and brought them under his dominion As the shore fetcheth a compasse by little and little from hence Southward it letteth in a bay or creeke of the Sea in manner of a Crescent which they call Mounts-bay wherein as the common speech goeth the Ocean by rushing with a violent force drowned the land Vpon this lieth Mousehole in the British tongue Port Inis that is The Haven of the Iland For which Henry of Ticis a Baron in his time and Lord of Alwerton and Tiwernel in this Country obtained of King Edward the First the grant to have a market there Likewise there is seated upon this Bay Pen-sans that is The Cape or Head of Saints or as some thinke Sands a prety market Towne within a little whereof is that famous stone Main-Amber which being a great Rock advanced upon some other of meaner size with so equall a counterpeize a man may stir with the push of his finger but to remove it quite out of his place a great number of men are not able as also Merkin that is Iupiters market because Thursday anciently dedicated to Iupiters is their market day a dangerous rode for ships And in the very angle and corner it selfe S. Michaels mount which gave name unto the foresaid Bay sometime called Dinsol as wee find in the booke of Landaffe the Inhabitants name it Careg Cowse that is The hoary Crag or Rock the Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Michaels place as Master Laurence Noel a man of good note for his singular learning and who was the first in our age that brought into ure againe and revived the language of our ancestours the Saxons which through disuse lay sorlet and buried in oblivion hath well observed This Rocke is of a good height and craggy compassed round about with water so oft as it is floud but at every ebbe joyned to the main-land so that they say of it It is land and Iland twice a day For which cause Iohn Earle of Oxford not many yeeres ago presuming upon the strength of the place chose it for his chiefest defence when he raised war against King Edward the Fourth and valiantly held the same but with no good successe For his souldiers being assailed by the Kings forces straight waies yeelded In the very top heereof within the Fortresse there was a Chappell consecrated to S. Michael the Archangell where William Earle of Cornwall and Moriton who by the bounteous gift of King William the First had great lands large possessions in this tract built a Cell for one or two monks who avouched that S. Michael appeared in that mount which apparition or the like the Italians challenge to their hill Garganus and the Frenchmen likewise to their Michaels mount in Normandie At the foote of this mountaine within the memorie of our Fathers whiles men were digging up of tin they found Spear-heads axes and swords of brasse wrapped in linnen such as were sometimes found within the forrest Hercinia in Germanie and not long since in our Wales For evident it is by the monuments of ancient Writers that the Greeks the Cimbrians and Britans used brazen weapons although the wounds given with brasse bee lesse hurtfull as in which mettall there is a medicinable vertue to heale according as Macrobius reporteth out of Aristotle But happily that age was not so cunning in devising meanes to mischiefe and murthers as ours is In the rocks underneath as also along the shore every where breedeth the Pyrrhecorax a kind of crow with bill and feet red and not as Plinie thought proper to the Alpes onely This bird the inhabitants have found to be an Incendiarie and theevish beside For oftentimes it secretly conveieth fire-sticks setting their houses a fire and as closely filcheth and hideth little peeces of money In this place the countrey is most narrow and groweth as it were into an Isthmus for it is scarse foure miles over from hence to the Severn or upper sea A little above this mount there openeth a Creeke of good bredth called of the mount Mountsbay a most safe rode and harbour for ships when the South and Southeast winds are aloft and bluster at a mid ebbe and returne of the Sea six or seven fathom deepe More toward the East ariseth Godolcan hill right famous for plentifull veines of tin they call it now Godolphin but much more renowned in regard of the Lords thereof bearing the same name who with their vertues have equalled the ancientnesse of that house and linage But that name in the Cornish language came of A white Aegle and this family hath anciently borne for their armes in a shield Gules an Aegle displaied Argent betweene three Flower-deluces of the same id est Argent likewise in a shield Gules From S. Michaels mount Southward immediatly there is thrust forth a bi-land or demi-Ile at the very entrie whereof Heilston sheweth it selfe called in their country language Hellas by reason of the salt water flowing thereto a Towne of great resort for their priviledge of marking and coinage of tin Under which by the confluence and meeting of many waters there is made a lake two miles in length named Loo poole divided from the Sea by a narrow banke running betweene which whensoever it is by the violence of waves broken thorow a wonderfull roring of waters is heard far and neere all over the countrey adjoining And not far from thence there is to be seene a militarie fense or rampier of a large compasse built of stones heaped together and laid without mortar they call it in their tongue Earth of which sort there be others heere and there raised as I verily beleeve in the Danish warre Neither is it unlike to
the native place of that great Arthur partly upon a little ridge putting forth as it were a tongue and partly within an Iland having both of them sometime a bridge betweene They call it at this day Tindagel beeing now a glorious ruine onely in times past a stately Castle of which a late Poet hath thus written Est locus Abrini finnoso littore ponti Rupe situs media refluus quem circuit astus Fulminat hic lat● turrit● vertice castrum Nomine Tindagium veteres dixere Corini There is a place within the winding shore of Severne Sea On mids a rocke about whose foote the tides turne-keeping play A Towry-topped Castle here farre thundreth over all Which Cornishmen by ancient name Tindagel Castle call A long discourse it would aske to declare here out of Geffries history how Uther Pendragon King of Britaine within this Castle became enamoured upon the wife of Gorlois Prince of Cornwall and how by Magick slights and delusions taking the shape of her husband upon him dishonourably violated the Ladie his wife and of her begat the said renowned Arthur It may suffice if I doe but alleage the verses of our Poet Iohn Havillan Facie dum falsus adulter Tindagel irrupit nec amoris Pendragon astum Vincit omnificas Merlini consulit artes Mentiturque ducis habitus rege latente Induit absentis praesentia Gorlois ora Whiles Pendragon that could not quench his flaming heats of love But beare a mind adult'rous still by meanes brake in above To Tindagel disguis'd in face by Merlin taught thereto By magicke and inchauntments strange which all such feats could doe Duke Gorloes habite absent then that was he tooke by guile But presence of the King in place he did conceale the while This Uther Pendragon verily was a Prince flourishing in Mar●iall feats who valiantly upheld the decaying state of his countrey against the English Saxons But whether came from him That Royall Banner in England having the portraict of a Dragon with a golden head whereof of neighbour nations have had experience and which in far Lands beyond sea was under King Richard the First terrible to the Panims I dare not avouch I would beleeve rather it was received from the Romans who a long time used the Eagle after that Marius had rejected the Ensignes of a Wolfe of Minotaurus of an Horse c. And in the end under the latter Emperors tooke them to the Dragon Whereupon Claudianus writeth thus Hij picta Draconum Calla levant The banners these advance aloft With speckled necks of Dragons wrought And Nemesianus Signa micant sinuatque truces levis aura Dracones Their Ensignes shine and Dragons fell that therein pictur'd show Wave to and fro with whiffes of wind as it doth gently blow And Hoveden sheweth that the West Saxon Kings used to carrie in their Banners the Dragon As for another Banner of the English which Beda called Tufa as also the Danes Reafan I will say nothing of them in this place for feare I may seeme to have digressed too farre from my purpose Betweene Padstow and Tindagel inwardly there extendeth a fruitfull veine and therein flourish the families of Roscarrock Carnsew Penkevell Cavell Pencavell of ancient name and great respect in this coast Forward still Eastward on the same coast which is open barren and destitute of woods there butteth upon the sea Botereaux Castle corruptly by the common people called Boscastle built by the Lords Botereaux who gave for their armes three Buffones toads sable in a shield Argent William Botereaux was the first famous man of honour in this familie who married Alice the daughter of Robert Corbet whose sister was Paramour to King Henrie the First of whom hee begat Reginald Earle of Cornwall From this William there flourished eleven successively in order But Margaret the onely daughter and sole heire of the last was wedded unto Robert Hungerford by whose posteritie the Inheritance is devolved upon the familie of the Hastings which inheritance was augmented and became more honourable by marriages that those of Botereaux contracted with the heires of the Noble houses De Moeles S. Laud commonly called S. Lo and Thweng From hence the Land shooting forth into the Sea extendeth it selfe so farre northward that the countrey carrieth here full three and twenty miles in breadth betweene the two seas which hitherto went on still drawen after a sort together into a narrow streit In this greatest breadth of it standeth Stow upon the sea-side the ancient habitation of the Creenvils which verily for Antiquitie and Noblenesse of birth is a famous house out of which one Richard in the raigne of William Rufus was for his valour much renowned among those worthy Knights that subdued Glamorganshire in Wales and another of late daies surnamed likewise Richard for his magnanimitie surpassing the Nobilitie of his bloud fighting most valiantly against the Spaniards at the Ilands of Tercera lost his life as I shall shew more fully in my Annals To this Stratton lieth close to a market Towne of no meane name amongst the neighbours for their gardens and good garlicke and next unto it Lancels a faire new seat of that old family de Calvo monte or Chaumond The river TAMARA now TAMAR shewing his head here not farre from the northren shore taketh his course with a swift running streame southward encreased with the channels of many rivelets hard by TAMARA a Towne mentioned by Ptolomee now called Tamerton by Tamar an ancient Mannour of the Trevilions to whom by marriage the Inheritance of Walesborough and Ralegh of Netlested descended also by Lanstuphadon that is Saint Stephens commonly and contractly Launston which standeth farther off from his banke a proper little Towne this is situate upon the pitch of a prettie hill which of two Burgards Dunevet and Newport is growne as it were into one Burgh At the first comming of the Normans William Earle of Moriton built a Castle there and had a Colledge of Chanons or Secular Priests as appeareth out of Domesday book wherein it is named Launstaveton of that Colledge no doubt built in the honour of Saint Stephen which Reginald Earle of Cornwall about the yeere of our Lord 1150 turned into a monasterie Against which pious worke of his the Bishops of Excester carried away over much and seduced with humane and private affection were verie maliciously bent as fearing exceedingly lest one day it would become a Bishops seat and so prejudice and impeach their jurisdiction At this day this Town is best knowne by reason of the common Goale of the countrey and the Assises which are often times kept there Then Tamar looketh up unto an high hil stretched out in length with a vast head which Marianus nameth 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and interpreteth it Hengists mount commonly called Hengston-hill Which in times past was so plentifull of Tinne veines that the countrey people had this
Vautorts and partly to the Prior. Of late time it became of a poore fisher village to be a great Towne and for the number of Inhabitants growne to that passe as now it is to be seene that it may bee compared with a Citie Such is the commodiousnesse of the haven which without striking saile admitteth into the bosome thereof the tallest ships that be doth harbour them very safely as well within Tamar as Plime and beside against hostilitie sufficiently fortified For before the very midst of the havens mouth lieth S. Michaels Isle strongly fortified both by nature and art as for the haven it selfe at the very Towne it hath fortifications on both sides and is chained over when need requireth having on the South side a Pier against it and upon an hill next adjoyning a Castle built as it is thought by the Vautorts The whole Towne is divided into foure Wards governed by a Major ordained there by K. Henry the Sixth and under him every ward had in times past a Captaine set over it each of them likewise had his inferiour officers As touching that fabulous wrestling betweene Corinaeus and Gogmagog the Giant in this place let it suffice to set downe a verse or two out of Architrenius concerning the same and the Westerne Giants Hos auidum belli robur Corinaeus Averno Praecipitis misit cubitis ter quatuor altum Gogmagog Herculeâ suspendit in aere luctâ Anthaeumque suum scopulo detrusit in aequor Potavitque dato Thetis ebria sanguine fluctus Diuisumque tulit mare corpus Cerberus umbram These martiall monsters Giants strong by Corinaeus slaine With Gogmagog twelve cubits high a combat did remaine Whom up he hang'd twixt heaven and earth thus once Alcides hung Antaeus fell and from the rock into the Sea him flung His bloud gave Thetis the waves to drinke her selfe therewith was drunke His grisly ghost had Cerberus when body torne was sunke As for that rock from whence they say this Giant was cast down it is now called the Haw a very hill standing between the Town and the Ocean on the top whereof which lieth spred into a most pleasant plaine there is a right delectable and goodly prospect every way and for the use of Sailers a very faire Compasse erected The circuit of this Town not great but much renowned it is among forraine nations and not so much for the commodious haven as the valour of the Inhabitants in sea services of all sorts For to say nothing of all others from hence was Sir Francis Drake that famous Knight and most skilfull man at sea in our daies who first as I have heard himselfe relate to repaire the losses which he had sustained at the Spaniards hands for two yeares space together with victorious successe held and kept the Bay of Mexico as it were besieged and travailed over the Isthmus of Dariena From whence when he had once beheld the South sea as the Spaniards call it as another Themistocles stirred up with the Trophees of Miltiades thought hee should have neglected himselfe his country and his owne glory unlesse he sailed over it which continually presented it selfe as an object to his adventurous mind In the yeare therefore 1577. putting to sea from hence he entred into the streits of Magellan and in two yeares and ten moneths through many alternative varieties of fortune God being his guide and valour his consort was the next after Magellanus that sailed round about the world Whereupon one wrote thus unto him Drake pererrati novit quem terminus orbis Quemque semel mundi vidit uterque polus Si taceant homines facient te sidera notum Sol nescit comitis immemor esse sui Sir Drake whom well the worlds end knows which thou did'st compasse round And whom both poles of heaven once saw which North and South doe bound The Starres above will make thee knowne if men here silent were The Sunne himselfe cannot forget his fellow-travailler The rest of his noble exploits and of others who descended from hence taking example by him flourished in glorious atchivements by sea seeing it belongs not to this place let Historians record in writing Neither have I ought else to say more of this Towne but that in the raigne of William Rufus there flourished heere one Ealphege a learned and married Priest For untill the yeare 1102. Priests in England were not forbidden to have their wives Then Anselme Archbishop of Canterbury violently forced both the sacred Scripture and nature also as our writers in those daies doe complaine and namely Henry of Huntingdon expresly of Anselme in these termes He prohibited English Priests to have wives who before-time were not prohibited Which as some thought to be a matter of greatest puritie so others againe tooke it to be most perilous lest while by this meanes they aimed at cleannesse above their power they should fall into horrible uncleannesse to the exceeding great shame of Christianitie More inward in the country and yet not farre from the water of Plim is Plimpton seated a mercate Towne well frequented where the remnants and deformed ruines of a Castle shew themselves of which many men have holden as our Lawyers terme it in Castle guard for it was the chiefe seat of the Redversies or the Riparii for both we read who were Barons of Plimpton and Earles of Denshire Next unto this stood Plimpton S. Mary the glorie whereof then fell to decay when as not long since the Colledge there of Canons was dissolved which William Warlewast Bishop of Exceter in old time had founded More Eastward you see Modburie a little Towne which acknowledgeth it selfe to appertaine to the ancient and right worshipfull family of the Campernulphs Knights who also are called in old Deeds De campo Arnulphi but commonly Champernouns which received much advancement and reputation by the heire of the Uautorts From Plims mouth where the South shore of this region beginneth the countrey runneth along with a large and great front as farre as to Stert a cape or promontorie for so the word in the English Saxon tongue signifieth but so soone as the shore hath drawne it selfe back land-ward the river Dert breaketh out which arising from the inward part of the country runneth downe apace through certaine leane and high grounds called thereupon Dertmore wherein of late were Lode stones found and carrieth downe with it certaine grit and sand out of the Tin-mines which by little and little choke up the channell through the Forrest of Dortmore where David of Sciredun held lands in Sciredun and Siplegh by this tenure or service to find two arrowes when the King his soveraigne Lord should come to hunt in that Forrest From thence by Dertinton a Baronie sometimes of the Martins who were Lords of Keimes in Wales it holdeth in his streame unto Totnes Which being an ancient little Towne standing pendant upon the fall of an hill
any expedition set out either by sea or land it served in proportion to five hides It hath beene likewise from time to time much afflicted once spoiled and sore shaken by the furious outrages of the Danes in the yeare of our redemption 875. but most grievously by Suen the Dane in the yeare 1003. at which time by the treacherie of one Hugh a Norman Governor of the citie it was raced and ruined along from the East gate to the West And scarcely began it to flourish againe when William the Conquerour most straightly beleaguered it when the Citizens in the meane while thought it not sufficient to shut their gates against him but malapartly let flie taunts and flouts at him but when a piece of their wall fell downe by the speciall hand of God as the Historians of that age report they yielded immediatly thereupon At which time as we find in the said survey-booke of his The King had in this Citie three hundred houses it paid fifteene pounds by the yeare and fortie houses were destroyed after that the King came into England After this it was thrice besieged and yet it easily avoided all First by Hugh Courtney Earle of Denshire in that civill warre betweene the two houses of Lancaster and Yorke then by Perkin Warbecke that imaginarie counterfeit and pretended Prince who being a young man of a very base condition faining himselfe to be Richard Duke of Yorke the second sonne of King Edward the Fourth stirred up dangerous stirres against Henrie the Seventh thirdly by seditious Rebels of Cornwall in the yeare of Christ 1549 at which time the Citizens most grievously pinched though they were with scarcitie of all things continued neverthelesse in their faith and allegeance untill that Iohn Lord Russell raised the siege and delivered them But Excester received not so great damage at these enemies hands as it did by certaine dammes which they call Weares that Edward Courtney Earle of Denshire taking high displeasure against the Citizens made in the river Ex which stop the passage so that no vessell can come up to the Citie but since that time all merchandize is carried by land from Topesham three miles off And albeit it hath beene decreed by Act of Parliament to take away these Weares yet they continue there still Hereupon the little Towne adjoyning is call Weare being aforetime named Heneaton which was sometime the possession of Augustine de Baa from whom in right of inheritance it descended to Iohn Holland who in his signet which my selfe have seene bare a Lion rampant gardant among flowers de Lys. The civill government of this Citie is in the power of foure and twenty persons out of whom there is from yeare to yeare a Major elected who with foure Bailiffes ruleth heere the State As touching the Geographicall description of this place the old tables of Oxford have set downe the longitude thereof to bee nineteene degrees and eleven scruples the latitude fiftie degrees and fortie scruples or minutes This Citie that I may not omit so much hath had three Dukes For Richard the Second of that name King of England created Iohn Holland Earle of Huntingdon and his brother by the mothers side the first Duke of Excester whom Henrie the Fourth deposed from this dignitie and left unto him the name onely of Earle of Huntingdon and soone after for conspiracie against the King he lost both it and his life by the hatchet Some few yeares after Henry the Fifth set in his place Thomas Beaufort of the house of Lancaster and Earle of Dorset a right noble and worthy warriour When he was dead leaving no issue behind him John Holland sonne of that aforesaid John as heire unto his brother Richard who died without children and to his father both being restored to his bloud by the favour and bounty of King Henry the Sixth recovered his fathers honor and left the same to Henry his sonne who so long as the Lancastrians stood upright flourished in very much honor but afterwards when the family of Yorke was a float and had rule of all gave an example to teach men how ill trusting it is to great Fortunes For this was that same Henry Duke of Excester who albeit he had wedded King Edward the Fourth his sister was driven to such miserie that he was seene all tottered torne and barefooted to begge for his living in the Low countries And in the end after Barnet field fought wherein he bare himselfe valiantly against Edward the Fourth was no more seene untill his dead bodie as if he had perished by Shipwracke was cast upon the shore of Kent A good while after this Henry Courtney Earle of Denshire the sonne of Katharine daughter to King Edward the Fourth was advanced to the honour of Marquesse of Excester by Henry the Eighth and designed heire apparant But this Marquesse as well as the first Duke was by his high parentage cast into a great tempest of troubles wherein as a man subject to suspitions and desirous of a change in the State he was quickly overthrowne And among other matters because he had with money and counsell assisted Reginald Poole afterwards Cardinall then a fugitive practising with the Emperour and the Pope against his owne Country and the King who had now abrogated the Popes authoritie he was judicially arraigned and being condemned with some others lost his head But now of late by the favour of King Iames Thomas Cecill Lord Burleigh enjoyeth the title of Earle of Excester a right good man and the worthy sonne of so excellent a father being the eldest sonne of William Cecill Lord Burleigh high Treasurer of England whose wisedome for a long time was the support of peace and Englands happy quietnesse From Excester going to the very mouth of the River I find no monument of Antiquitie but Exminster sometime called Exanminster bequeathed by King Elfred to his younger sonne and Pouderham Castle built by Isabell de Ripariis the seat long time of that most noble family of the Courtneys Knights who being lineally descended from the stocke of the Earles of Denshire and allied by affinitie to most honorable houses flourish still at this day most worthy of their descent from so high Ancestors Under Pouderham Ken a pretty brooke entreth into Ex which riseth neere Holcombe where in a Parke is a faire place built by Sir Thomas Denis whose family fetcheth their first off-spring and surname from the Danes and were anciently written Le Dan Denis by which name the Cornish called the Danes But lower upon the very mouth of the river on the other banke side as the name it selfe doth testifie standeth Exanmouth knowne by nothing else but the name and for that some fishermen dwelt therein More Eastward Otterey that is The River of Otters or River-Dogs which we call Otters as may appeare by the signification of the word falleth into the sea which runneth hard under
begot of the Lady Margaret Howard Daughter to the late Duke of Norfolk In this Countie are numbred Parishes 248. BELGAE VPon the North and East side of the Durotriges bordered in times past the Belgae who as it is by the name probable and by authority of writers very likely passed over from the Belgae a people in Gaule into Britaine For those Belgae having their beginning as Caesar according to the information he had from the men of Rhemes of the Germans and in old time being brought over the Rhene finding the sweetnesse and fertility of the place expelled the Gaules and planted themselves there From whence as the same Caesar saith they gat them over into Britaine for to spoile and in warlicke manner to invade the country and were all of them called after the name of those countryes from whence they came where after they had made warre they remained and began to till the grounds But at what time they came hither to dwell it is not certainly knowen unlesse Divitiacus King of the Suessones who flourished before Caesars time brought over the Belgae hither For a great part as well of Gaule as of Britaine he had under him Whence also they were named Belgae it is not sufficiently shewed Hubert Thomas of Liege a great learned man supposed Belgae to be a German word for that the Germans use to call the French and the Italians Wallen as strangers yea and some of them Welgen Iohn Goropius himself a Belgian maintaineth it to be derived of the word Belke which in the Belgicke tongue signifieth wrath or anger as if they would be sooner incensed with choler than others But seeing that the name of the Belgae seemeth not to be sought for out of that tongue which the Germans of the Low-countries use at this day and is almost the same that our English-Saxon language for from the Saxons it came whom Charles the Great brought over into Brabant and Flanders for my part I will in no wise diminish their credit who fetch it forth of the ancient Gaules tongue which remayneth in manner uncorrupt among our Welch-Britans and will have them called Belgae of Pell which in that tongue betokeneth Remote or far off For of all Gaule they were the furthest and as they were furthest from the civill behaviour and humanity of the Roman Province so they were also in situation and seat and the Poet hath shewed that the Morini were the people of all Belgica most remote when he wrote thus Extremique hominum Morini that is The morini of all men furthest But come we now to our Belgae who inhabited far and wide in Somersetshire Wiltshire and the inner parts of Hantshire SOMERSETSHIRE THe Countie of Somerset commonly called Somersetshire is a verie large and wealthy Region the North side whereof the Severne Sea beateth upon the West part confineth with Denshire in the South it bordereth first upon Devonshire and then upon Dorsetshire Eastward upon Wiltshire and North-east upon part of Glocestershire The Soile verie rich yeelding for the most part thereof passing great plentie both of pasture and corne and yet not without stonie hilles Exceeding populous and full of Inhabitants furnished also with commodious havens and ports sufficiently Some thinke it was so called for that the aire there is so mild and summer-like and in that sence the Welch Britans at this day terme it Gladerhaf borrowing that name out of our English tongue And verily howsoever in summer time it is a right summer-like Country yet surely in winter it may worthily be called a winterish Region so wet and weely so miry and moorish it is to the exceeding great trouble and encombrance of those that travell in it But I will beleeve that this name without all question grew from Somerton a famous Towne in ancient time and of all others in the shire most frequented considering that Asserius a writer of great antiquitie calleth this Countie in every place Somertunensis that is Somertunshire In the very first limit of the shire Westward where Ex riseth in a solitarie and hilly moore first appeareth Dulverton a silly market according to the soile and neere unto it was a small religious house of Black-chanons at Barelinch who in latter times acknowledged the Fetyplaces their founders Higher upward on the Severne side where this shire confineth upon Devonshire first we meet with Porlock in the English-Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and Watchet in times past Wecedpoort roades both and harbours for ships the which in the yeere 886. were most grievously afflicted by the Danish cruell piracies Betwixt them standeth Dunster Castle upon a flat and low ground enclosed round about with hilles saving to the Sea-ward built by the Moions or Mohuns From whose heires by agreements and compositions it came in the end to the Lutterels A right noble and mightie house this of the Mohuns was for a long time and flourished from the verie Conquerours daies under whose raigne that Castle was built unto the time of King Richard the Second Two Earles there were of this Countie out of that familie as I shall shew hereafter William and Reginald who in the Barons warre lost that honor The Posteritie afterwards were reputed Barons of whom the last named Iohn left three daughters Philip wife to Edward Duke of Yorke Elizabeth wedded to William Montacute Earle of Sarisburie the second of that name and Maud Joyned in marriage to the Lord Strange of Knokin The Mother of which three Ladies as the report goes obtained of her husband so much pasture-ground in Common by the Towne side for the benefit of the Inhabitants as she could goe about in one day barefoot SOMERSETTENSIS Comitatus Vulgo Somersett Shyre Qui ●lim pars fuit BELGARVM Now to returne the river Ivel from hence runneth to ISCHALIS mentioned by Ptolomee now Ivelcester named in the Catalogue of Ninnius if I be not deceived Pontavel Coit for Pont-Ivel Coit that is Ivel bridge in the wood by Florentius of Worcester Givelcester at this day of small account but onely for the antiquitie and the market there kept for peeces of the Roman Caesars or Emperours money of gold brasse and silver are other whiles here digged up That in old time it had been a great towne and on some sides strengthned with a double wall the ruines declare and two towers upon the Bridge About the time of the Normans comming in well peopled it was and much frequented For reckoned there were in it one hundred and seven Burgesses A sure place also in those daies and well fortified for in the yeere of Grace 1088 when the Nobles of England had conspired plotted against King William Rufus to put him downe and set up his brother Robert Duke of Normandie in his Roiall throne Robert Mowbray a warlike man having burnt Bathe forcibly assaulted this towne but with lost labour yet what hee could not doe then long processe of time
for all England right happy For it brought forth to us Queene Elizabeth a most gracious and excellent Prince worthy of superlative praise for her most wise and politique government of the Common-wealth and for her heroicke vertues farre above that sexe But when the said Thomas Bullen overcome with the griefe and sorrow that hee tooke for the infortunate fall and death of his children he ended his daies without issue this title lay still untill that King Edward the Sixth conferred it upon William Powlet Lord Saint Iohn whom soone after hee made Marquesse of Winchester and Lord Treasurer of England in whose family it remaineth at this day This Countie containeth in it Parishes 304. HANTSHIRE NExt to Wilshire is that Country which sometimes the Saxons called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and is now commonly named Hantshire of which one part that beareth farther within the land belonged no doubt to the Belgae the other which lieth upon the sea appertained without question to the Regni an ancient people of Britaine On the West it hath Dorsetshire and Wilshire on the South the Ocean to bound it on the East it joyneth to Sussex and Surrie and on the North it bordereth upon Barkshire A small province it is fruitfull in corne furnished in some places with pleasant woods standing thicke and well growne rich in plenteous pasture and for all commodities of sea most wealthy and happie It is thought that it was with the first brought under subjection to the Romans For our Histories report that Vespasian subdued it and very probable reasons there are inducing us to beleeve the same For Dio witnesseth that Plautius and Vespasian when they were sent by the Emperour Claudius against the Britaines did give the attempt upon this Island with an armie divided into three parts least if they should have ventured to land in one place onely they might have beene driven backe from the shore Suetonius also writeth that in this expedition Vespasian fought thirtie battailes with the enemie and subdued the Isle of Wight which lieth against this country and two other right puissant nations with it For which his victories as also for passing over the Ocean so safely Valerius Flaccus speaketh unto Vespasian himselfe as one more fortunate than Iulius Caesar in this manner Tuque O Pelagi cui major aperti Fama Caledonius post quam tua Carbasa vexit Oceanus Fhrigios prius indignatus Iülos And thou for Seas discoverie whose fame did more appeare Since that thy ships with sailes full spred in Northren Ocean were Which skorn'd before of Phrygian line the Julii to beare And of the very same Vespasian Appolonius Collatius Novariensis the Poet versified thus Ille quidem nuper faelici Marte Britannos Fuderat He verily of late by happy flight Had won the field and Britains put to flight But how in this war Titus delivered Vespasian his father when he was very streightly besieged by the Britans and how at the same time likewise an adder grasped him about and yet never hurt him which he tooke as a lucky foretoken of his Empire you may learne out of Dio and Forcatulus I for my part to come to my purpose beginning at the West side of this province will make my perambulation along the sea-coast and the rivers that runne into the Ocean and after that survey the more in-land parts thereof HAMSHIRE OLIM PARS BELGARVM A long the East banke of this river in this Shire King William of Normandie pulled downe all the townes villages houses and Churches farre and neere cast out the poore Inhabitants and when he had so done brought all within thirty miles compasse or there about into a forrest and harbour for wild beasts which the Englishmen in those daies termed Ytene and we now call New forrest Of which Act of his Gwalter Maps who lived immediately after wrote thus The Conquerour tooke away land both from God and men to dedicate the same unto wild beasts and Dogs-game in which space he threw downe sixe and thirtie-Mother-Churches and drave all the people thereto belonging quite away And this did he either that the Normans might have safer and more secure arrivall in England for it lieth over against Normandie in case after that all his wars were thought ended any new dangerous tempest should arise in this Island against him or for the pleasure which he tooke in hunting or else to scrape and rape money to himselfe by what meanes soever he could For being better affected and more favourable to beasts than to men he imposed verie heavie fines and penalties yea and other more grievous punishments upon those that should meddle with his game But Gods just judgement not long after followed this so unreasonable and cruell act of the King For Richard his second sonne and William Rufus King of England another sonne of his perished both in this Forrest William by chance shot through with an arrow by Walter Tirell the other blasted with a pestilent aire Henrie likewise his Grand-child by Robert his eldest sonne whiles hee hotely pursued his game in this Chase was hanged amongst the boughes and so died that wee may learne thereby How even childrens children beare the punishment of their Fathers sonnes There goe commonly abroad certaine verses that Iohn White Bishop of Winchester made of this Forrest Which although they falsly make William Rufus to have ordained the same yet because they are well liked of many I am likewise well content heere to set them downe Templa adimit Divis fora civibus arva colonis Rufus instituit Beaulensi in rure forestam Rex cervum insequitur Regem vindicta Tirellus Non bene provisum transfixit acumine ferri From God and Saint King Rus did Churches take From Citizens town-court and mercate place From Farmer lands New forrest for to make In Beaulew tract where whiles the King in chase Pursues the Hart just vengeance comes apace And King pursues Tirrell him seeing not Unawares him slew with dint of arrow shot He calleth it Beauley tract for that King Iohn built hard by a pretty Monasterie for the pleasant scituation called Beaulieu which continued ever unto our Fathers memorie of great fame as being an unviolated sanctuarie and a safe refuge for all that fled to it in so much that in times past our people heere thought it unlawfull and an hainous offence by force to take from thence any persons whatsoever were they thought never so wicked murtherers or traitours so that our Ancestors when they erected such Sanctuaries or Temples as they terme them of Mercie every where throughout England seemed rather to have proposed unto themselves Romulus to imitate than Moses who commanded that wilfull murtherers should bee plucked from the Altar and put to death and for them onely appointed Sanctuarie who by meere chance had killed any man But least the sea coast for so long a tract as that forrest is heere should lie without defence all open
they call it a Fesse with a labell of seven as I have seene upon his seales After him succeeded Roger his sonne who bare Gules seven Mascles voided Or but with him that honour vanished and went away seeing he died without issue male For he married the eldest daughter and one of the coheires of Alan Lord of Galloway in Scotland by a former wife in right of whom he was Constable of Scotland He had by her three onely daughters the first married to William de Ferrariis Earle of Derbie the second to Alan de la Zouch the third to Comine Earle of Bucqhanan in Scotland A long time after Hugh le Dispencer having that title bestowed upon him for terme of his life by King Edward the second whose minion he was and only beloved felt together with his sonne what is the consequence of Princes extraordinary favours For both of them envied by most were by the furious rage of the people put cruelly to shamefull death And long it was after this that through the bounty of King Edward the Fourth Lewis of Bruges a Netherland Lord of Gruthuse Prince of Steinhuse c. Who had given him comfort and succour in the Netherlands when hee was fled his native countrey received this honour with Armes resembling those of Roger Quincy in these words Azur a dix Mascles D'or en orm d'un Canton de nostie propre Armes d' Engleterre cestsavour de Goul un Leopard passant d' or armeè d' azur All which after King Edwards death he yeilded up into the hands of Henrie the seventh But lately within our memorie King Edward the sixth honoured Sir William Pawlet Lord Treasurer of England Earle of Wilshire and Lord Saint Iohn of Basing with a new title of Marquesse of Winchester A man prudently pliable to times raised not sodainely but by degrees in Court excessive in vaste informous buildings temperate in all other things full of yeares for he lived nintie seven years and fruitfull in his generation for he saw one hundred and three issued from him by Elizabeth his wife daughter to Sir William Capell Knight And now his grand-child William enjoyeth the said honours For the Geographicall position of Winchester it hath beene observed by former ages to be in longitude two and twenty degrees and in latitude fiftie one From Winchester more Eastward the river Hamble at a great mouth emptieth it selfe into the Ocean Beda calleth it Homelea which as he writeth by the lands of the Intae entreth into Solente for so termeth he that frith our narrow sea that runneth betweene the Isle of Wight and the main land of Britain in which the tides at set houres rushing in with great violence out of the Ocean at both ends and so meeting one another in the midst seemed so strange a matter to our men in old time that they reckoned it among the wonders of Britaine Whereof read heere the very words of Beda The two tides of the Ocean which about Britaine breake out of the vast Northern Ocean daily encounter and fight one against another beyond the mouth of the river Homelea and when they have ended their conflict returne backe from whence they came and runne into the Ocean Into this Frith that little river also sheadeth it selfe which having his head neere Warnford passeth betweene the Forrests of Waltham where the Bishop of Winchester hath a goodly house and of Bere whereby is Wickham a mansion of that ancient family of Vuedal and then by Tichfield sometime a little monasterie founded by Petre de Rupibus Bishop of Winchester where the marriage was solemnized betweene King Henry the sixth and Margaret of Anjou and now the principall seate of the Lord Writheosleies Earles of South-hampton From thence forthwith the shore with curving crookes draweth it selfe in and the Island named Portesey maketh a great creeke within the more inward nooke or corner whereof sometimes flourished Port peris where by report Vespasian landed An haven towne which our Ancestours by a new name called Port-chester not of Porto the Saxon but of the port or haven For Ptolomee tearmeth it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is THE GREAT HAVEN for the widenesse of it like as that Portus Magnus also in Africk as Plinie witnesseth And verily there remaineth yet a great Castle which hath a faire and spacious prospect into the haven underneath But when as the Ocean by with-drawing it selfe tooke away by little and little the commoditie of the haven the Inhabitants flitted from thence into the Island Portsey adjoyning which taketh in circuit much about fourteene miles being at every full sea floated round about with salt-waters out of which they boile salt and by a bridge that hath a fortresse adjoyning unto it is united to the Continent This Island Athelflede King Eadgars wife had given to the New monasterie of Winchester And in it at the very gullet or mouth where the sea entreth in our fore-fathers built a towne and thereupon named it Portsmouth that is the mouth of the haven A place alwaies in time of warre well frequented otherwise little resort there is to it as beeing more favourable and better affected to Mars and Neptune than to Mercurie that is to warre rather than to traffique A Church it hath of the old building and an Hospitall Gods house they call it founded by Peter de Rupibus Bishop of Winchester Fortified it was with a wall made of timber and the same well covered over with thicke bankes of earth fenced with a platforme also or mount of earth in times past on the North-east nere to the gate and two block-houses at the entry of the haven made of new hewen stone Which being by King Edward the fourth begunne King Henrie the seventh as the Inhabitants report did finish and strengthned the towne with a garrison But in our remembrance Queene ELIZABETH at her great cost and charges so armed it as one would say with new fortifications as that now there is nothing wanting that a man would require in a most strong and fenced place And of the garrison-souldiers some keepe watch and ward both night and day at the gates others upon the towre of the Church who by the ringing or sound of a bell give warning how many horse or foote are comming and by putting forth a banner shew from what quarter they come From hence as the shore fetcheth a compasse and windeth from Portes-bridge wee had the sight of Havant a little mercate towne and hard by it of Wablington a goodly faire house belonging some-times to the Earles of Salisbury but now to the family of the Cottons Knights Before which there lie two Islands the one greater named Haling the other lesse called Thorney of thornes there growing and both of them have their severall parish Church In many places along this shore of the sea-waters flowing up thither is made salt of a palish or greene colour the which by a certaine artificious devise
which the unskilfull rurall people envie us the having Onely one was brought from hence to London which was to be seene in the gardens of the right honourable Sir William Cecill Lord Burghley and high Treasurer of England to wit MEMORIAE FL. VICTORINAE T. TAM VICTOR CONJUX POSVIT That this Tombe was erected for that Victorina which was called Mater Castrorum that is The mother of the Campe and who against Gallienus the Emperour excited in Gaule and Britaine the two Victorini her sonne and sonnes sonne Posthumus likewise Lollianus Marius and Tetricus Caesars I would not with others affirme Yet I have read that two of the VICTORS were in some place here in Britaine and those at one and the selfe-same time the one Maximus the Emperour his soone the other Praefectus Praetorio to the same Emperour of whom Saint Ambrose maketh mention in his Epistles but I dare avouch that neither of these twaine reared this monument for his wife As one high way or street of the Romans went straight from hence Southward to Winchester so there was another ran west-ward through Pamber Forrest very full of trees and other by-places now standing out of the way hard by Litchfield that is the field of dead bodies to the Forrest of Chute pleasant for coole shade of trees plentifull game in which the Hunters and Forresters themselves do wonder at the banke or ridge thereof so evident to be seene paved with stone but broken here and there More toward the North in the very edge and frontier of this Shire we saw Kings-Cleare a market towne in these daies well frequented the residence in times past of the Saxon Kings by it Fremantle in a parke where King Iohn much haunted also Sidmanton the habitation of the Kingsmils Knights and Burgh-Cleare scituate under an high hill in the top whereof a warlike rampire such as our countreymen called a Burgh hath a trench taking a great compasse about it from whence there being a faire and open prospect every way ever the countrey lying underneath there standeth a Beacon that by light burning fire the enemies comming may bee shewed to all the neighbour-Inhabitants round about And verily such watches or signals as this we terme in common speech Beacons of the old word Beacnian that is to shew by a signe and for these many hundred yeares they have beene in right great request and much used among us in some places by heaping up a deale of wood in others by barrels full of pitch fastened to the top of a mast or pole in the highest places of the countrey at which by night some doe evermore watch and in old time there were set horsemen as posts in many places whom our Ancestors called Hobelers who in the day time should give notice of the enemies approach This shire like as the rest which hitherto we have run over belonged to the west-Saxon Kings and when they had deposed Sigebert from his Kingdome for his tyrannie evill entreating and lewd managing of his province this countrey as Marianus writeth was assigned unto him least hee should seeme altogether a private person Whom notwithstanding afterward for his wicked deeds they likewise expelled from hence and so far was it off that this afflicted state of a King moved any man to take pitie of him that a Swine-heard in the end slew him in the wood Anderida where he had lurked and hidden himselfe This Shire can reckon but very few Earles besides those of Winchester which I have already named In the first time of the Normans Bogo or Beavose the English man who fought against the Normans in the battell at Cardiff in Wales is reputed to have beene Earle of South-hampton a man for warlike prowesse much renowned whom while the Monks laboured to set out with their fained fables they have obscured his doughtie deeds in greater darkenesse From which time unto the daies of K. Henry the Eight there was no Earle of South-hampton that I read of but he created William Fitz-williams descended from the daughter of Marquesse Montacute both Earle of South-hampton and also Admirall of England when he was now well stricken in yeares Who dying straight after without issue King Edward the Sixth in the first yeare of his raigne conferred the said honour upon Thomas Wriotheosley Lord Chancellor whose grand-child Henrie by his sonne Henrie enjoyeth the same at this day and in the prime and flowre of his age hath by good literature and militarie experience strengthned his honorable parentage that in riper yeares he might be more serviceable to his Prince and countrey There be found in this shire Parishes 253. and mercate townes 18. VECTA INSVLA ISLE OF WIGHT TO this Countie of South-hampton belongeth that Island which lieth out in length over against the midst of it South-ward called by the Romans in times past VECTA VECTIS and VICTESIS by Ptolomee 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 by Britaines Guith by English-Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 For an Island they termed 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and by us in these daies the Isle of Wight and the Whight by so small a streight running betweene anciently called Solent It is severed from the maine land that it may seeme to have beene conjoyned to it whereof that British name of it Guith which betokeneth a separation as Ninnius saith is thought to have beene given even as Sicilie also being broken off as it were and cut from Italie got the name from Secando the Latin word which signifieth cutting as the right learned Iulius Scaliger is of opinion Whereupon under correction alwaies of the Iudicious Criticks I would read in the sixt Quest. Naturall of Seneca thus Ab Italia Siciliaresecta that is Sicilie cut from Italie wheras it is commonly read there rejecta By this Vicinitie of Scite Affinitie of name we may well thinke this Vecta to be that Icta which as Diodorus Siculus writeth seemed at every tide to be an Island but when it was ebbe the ancient Britaines were wont that way to carry tinne thither by carts which should bee transported into France But yet I would not deeme it to be that MICTIS in Plinie which likewise commeth very neere unto VECTA For that in it there was plentie of tinne but in this of ours there is not to my knowledge any veine at all of mettall This Isle betweene East and West in ovall forme stretcheth out twentie miles in length and spreadeth in the midst where it is broadest twelve miles having the one side turning to the North and the other Southward The ground to say nothing of the sea exceeding full of fish consisteth of soile very fruitfull and is thankefull to the husbandman in so much as it doth affoord corne to be carried forth breeding every where store of conies hares partridges and phesants One little forrest it hath likewise and two parkes replenished with deere for game and hunting pleasure Through the midst thereof
name of Sir Iohn Lisle of the Isle of Wight ATTREBATII AS in France so also in Britaine next adjoyning unto the Belgae are ATTREBATII which name being now altogether out of use the place which they inhabite is commonly called Barkshire For let this stand as granted seeing Cesar writeth the forrainers comming out of Gallia Belgica inhabited the sea coasts of Britaine and retained still the names of their countries that these our ATTREBATII ATTREBATES of Gaule who as Ptolomee recordeth held the maritime part of Gaule lying upon the river Sein and namely that very countrey which after a sort lieth full opposite and over against our Attrebatii It was not therefore without good cause if Cesar wrote that Comius Attrebatensis was of great authority in these countries namely among his owne countrimen and that after hee was by Cesar vanquished he fled hither what time as Frontinus writeth whiles his ships were grounded upon a shelfe he commanded his sailes to be hoised up and so disappointed Cesar who pursued him of his purpose who kenning a-farre-of his full sailes and supposing that with a good gale of forewind he sailed away gave over further pursuit Whence these Attrebatii were so called it resteth doubtfull For whereas some fetch the originall from Attrech which in the old Gauls tongue they would have to signifie a land of Bread I neither approve nor disprove their opinion Sufficient it may be for us to have shewed from whence they came into Britaine as for the derivation of their name let others search into it COMITATUS Bercheri● vulgo Barkshyre qui olim sedes ATREBATVM BARKSHIRE THat countrie which we call Barkshire the late Latine writers terme Bercheria and was somtime by the English Saxons named 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Which name Asserius Menevensis deriveth from a certaine wood called Berroc where grew good store of box others from a naked or bare oake for so much the name Beroke it selfe importeh unto which the Inhabitants in dangers and troublesome times of the commonwealth were wont in old time to resort there to consult about their publike affaires The North part hereof the river Isis which afterwards is called Tamisis that is the Tamis running with a winding channell full of reaches but carrying a very gentle streame doth pleasantly water it and first severeth it from Oxfordshire afterwards from Buckinghamshire The South side where it beareth toward Hantshire the river Kenet cutteth through untill it runnes into the Tamis In the West where it bordereth upon Wiltshire and carrieth the greatest breadth as also in the middle part rich it is of it selfe and full of commodities yeelding corne in plenty especially where it falleth lower to a valley which I wotte not from what shape of a white horse imagined to appeare in a whitish chalky hill they terme The vale of Whitehorse As for the East part that confineth with Surrie it groweth very barraine or at least wise the soile is lesse fertile as standing upon forrests and woods that take up a great ground in length and breadth In the West march thereof neere unto Isis standeth Farendon seated high famous now for a mercate there kept but in times past for a certaine Fort which Robert Earle of Glocester built against King Stephen who notwithstanding wonne it with bloudy assaults and laid it so levell with the ground that now it is not to bee seene But the plot of ground whereon it stood as we finde in the Chronicle of Waverley Abbay King Iohn in the yeere of our Lord 1202. prevented by divine inspiration granted with all the appurtenances to the building of an Abbay for the Cistercians order From hence the river having with a great turning compasse after much wrestling gotten out towards the North passeth a long hard by many villages of small reckoning till at length with a returne and disporting it selfe with winding branches and divisions he commeth to Abbendon a proper towne and populous called at first by the English Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 then Abbandune no doubt of the Abbay rather then of one Abben I wote not what Irish Eremite as some have written A place this was as we finde in an old booke of Abbendon upon the plaine of an hill very faire and delectable to see too a little beyond the town which now is called Suniggewelle betweene two most pleasant rivelets which enclosing within them the place it selfe as it were a certaine nooke yeeld a delightsome sight to the beholders and a meete succour to the Inhabitants The very same was in times past called Sheovesham a Citie famous goodly to behold full of riches compassed about with most plentuous fields with greene medowes ●patious pastures and flockes of cattell spinning forth milke abundantly H●ere was the Kings seat hither resorted and assembled the people when soever there was any treaty about the chiefe and highest affaires of the kingdome But so soone as Cissa King of the West Saxons had built the Abbay it beganne by little and little to lay downe the old name and to be called Abbendon and Abbington that is Abbay-towne This Abbay had not long flourished when all of a sodaine in a tempestuous fury of the Danes it was subverted Yet soone after it was reared againe through the bounty of King Edgar and afterwards by the meanes travaile of the Norman Abbats grew by little and little to such magnificence that among all the Abbaies of Britaine for riches and statelinesse it would hardly give place to any Which the very rubble and ruines at this day doe testifie As for the towne albeit along time it had a great stay of the Abbay yet since the yeere of our salvation 1416. in which King Henrie the Fifth built Bridges over the River Isis or Ouse as witnesseth a verse written in a window of Saint Helens Church there and turned the Kings high way hither for to make a shorter passage it beganne to bee frequented and traded so that among all the townes of this shire it goes for the chiefe hath a Major in it and maketh great gaine by that steeped barly sprouting and chitting againe which the Greekes terme Byne and wee Malt sand besides hath a Crosse of singular workemanship in the mids of their mercate place which by report in the reigne of King Henrie the sixth the Brotherhood of Saint Crosse instituted by him did erect As Cissa founded this monasterie for Monkes so Cilla out of an old booke I speake the sister of King Cedwalla built the Nunnerie at Helnestowe neere the Tamis where her selfe was Ladie Abbasse over the Virgins who afterwards were translated to Witham And whiles the warre grew hote betweene Offa and Kinulphe when a Castle was there built the Nunnes retired themselves out of the way For after that Kinulph was overthrowne whatsoever lay under his jurisdiction from the towne of Wallengford in the South part from Ichenildstreete unto Essebury and
the Parliament by the name of William Beauchamp de Saint Amando flourished among other Barons like as his sonne Richard who left no issue lawfully begotten Kenet keeping on his course downward from thence betweene Hemsted Marshall which sometimes was held by the rod of Marshalsee and appertained to the Mareschals of England where S. Thomas Parry Treasurer of Queene Elizabeths houshold built a very proper house and Benham Valence in a Parke so called because it belonged to William de Valencia Earle of Pembroch But Queen Elizabeth gave it to Iohn Baptista Castilion a Piemontes of her privie chamber for faithfull service in her dangers So the river passeth on to that old town Spinae wherof Antonine made mention which retaining still the name is at this day called Spene but now in steed of a towne it is a very little village standing scarce a mile off from Newbury a famous towne that arose and had beginning out of the ruins of it For Newbury with us is as much to say as the Newburgh in respect no doubt of that more ancient place of habitation which is quite decayed and gone and hath left the name also in a peece of Newburie it selfe which is called Spinham Lands And if nothing else yet this verily might prove that Newburie sprang out of Spine because the inhabitants of Newbury acknowledge the village Spene as their mother although in comparison of Spene it be passing faire and goodly as well for buildings as furniture become rich also by clothing and very well seated in a champian plaine having the river Kenet to water it This towne at the time that the Normans conquered England fell to Ernulph de Hesdin Earle of Perch whose successour Thomas Earle of Perch being slaine at the siege of Lincolne the Bishop of Chalons his heire sold it unto William Marescall Earle of Pembroke who also held the Manour of Hempsted hard by whereof I have spoken and his successors also Mareschals of England untill that Roger Bigod for his obstinacie lost his honor and possessions both which notwithstanding by intreaty he obtained againe for his life time Kenet passeth on hence and taketh into him Lamborn a little river which at the head and spring thereof imparteth his name to a small mercate towne that in old time by vertue of King Aelfreds testament belonged unto his cousin Alfrith and afterward to the Fitz Warens who of King Henrie the Third obtained libertie of holding a mercate but now appertaineth unto the Essexes Knights A familie that fetcheth their pedigree from William Essex Vnder-treasurer of England under King Edward the Fourth from those who in times past carried the same surname flourished as men of very great fame in Essex From thence he runneth under Dennington which others call Dunnington a little castle but a fine and proper one situate with a faire prospect upon the brow of a prety hill full of groves and which inwardly for the most part letteth in all the light Built they say it was by Sir Richard de Abberbury Knight who also under it founded for poore people a Gods-house Afterward it was the residence of Chaucer then of the Dela Poles and in our fathers daies of Charles Brandon Duke of Suffolke Kenet having now finished a long course by Aldermaston which King Henrie the First gave unto Robert Achard From whose posterity by the Delamares it came at length in right of marriage to the Fosters a familie of Knights degree falleth at the last into Tamis presently after it hath with his winding branches compassed a great part of Reading This towne Reading called in the English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 of Rhea that is The River or of the British word Redin that signifieth Fearne which groweth heere in great plentie excelleth at this day all other townes of this shire in faire streets and goodly houses for wealth also of the Townsmen and their name in making of cloth although it hath lost the greatest ornaments it had to wit a beautifull Church and a most ancient Castle For this the Danes kept as their hold so Asserius writeth when they made a rampier betweene Kenet and Tamis and into this they retired themselves for safety when at Inglefield a village neere unto it which gave name to an ancient familie they were by King Aethelwolfe discomfited and put to flight But King Henrie the Second so rased it because it was a place of refuge for King Stephens followers that nothing now remaineth of it but the bare name in the next street Nigh whereunto King Henrie the First having plucked downe a little Nunnerie that Queene Alfrith had founded in former times to make satisfaction for her wicked deeds built for Monks a stately and sumptuous Abbay and enriched it with great revenewes Which Prince to speake out of his very Charter of the foundation Because three Abbaies in the Realme of England were in old time for their sinnes destroied to wit Reading Chelseie and Leonminster which a long time were held in Lay mens hands by the advise of the Bishops built a new Monasterie of Reading and gave unto it Reading Chelseie and Leonminster In this Abbay was the founder himselfe King Henrie buried with his wife both vailed and crowned for that shee had beene a Queene and a professed Nunne and with them their daughter Mawde as witnesseth the private Historie of this place although some report that she was enterred at Becc in Normandie This Mawde as well as that Lacedemonian Ladie Lampido whom Plinie maketh mention of was a Kings daughter a Kings wife and a Kings mother that is to say daughter of this Henrie the First King of England wife of Henrie the Fourth Emperour of Almaine and mother to Henrie the Second King of England Concerning which matter have you here a Distichon engraven on her tombe and the same verily in my judgment conceived in some gracious aspect of the Muses Magna ortu majorque viro sed maxima partu Hîc jacet Henrici filia sponsa parens The daughter wife the mother eke of Henrie lieth heere Much blest by birth by marriage more but most by issue deere And well might she be counted greatest by her issue For Henrie the Second her sonne as Iohn of Salisburie who lived in those daies wrote was the best and most vertuous King of Britaine the most fortunate Duke of Normandie and Aquitain and as well for valiant exploits as for excellent vertues highly renowned How courageous how magnificent how wise and modest he was even from his tender yeeres envy it selfe can neither conceale nor dissemble seeing that his acts bee fresh and conspicuous seeing also that he hath extended forward and held on in a continued traine the titles of his vertue from the bounds of Britaine unto the marches of Spaine And in another place of the same King Henrie the Second the most mighty King that ever was of Britaine shewed his
unto William the Conquerour upon this condition that they might retaine their ancient customes unviolated and especially that which they call Gavelkind that is Give all kinne by which they are not so bound by Copyhold customarie tenures or Tenant-right as in other parts of England but in manner every man is a free-holder and hath some part of his owne to live upon For lands of this nature are equally divided among the male children or if there be no sonnes among the daughters By vertue of this also they are at full age and enter upon their inheritance when they come to be fifteene yeares old and lawfull it is for them to alienate and make it over to any one either by gift or by sale without the Lords consent By this likewise the sonne though their parents were condemned for theft succeede them neverthelesse in such kind of Lands c. which I leave to Lawyers So that it is truely though not purely written in Latine in an old book thus The County of Kent avoucheth that this County ought by right to be free from such kind of grievance for it saith that this County was never conquered as the residue of England was but by concluding of a peace subjected themselves to the dominion of the Conquerour retaining to themselves all their liberties immunities and customes which they had and used before time After this William the Conquerour that hee might more firmely assure to himselfe Kent which is the very key of England placed a Constable over Dover Castle and according to the ancient order of the Romans made him also Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports And these bee they Hastings Dover Hith Rumney and Sandwich unto which Winchelsey and Rie are joyned as principall ports and other small townes as Members Which because they are bound to serve in the warres by sea enjoy many great immunities as who are free from payment of Subsidies and from Wardship of their children as touching the bodie neither are they sued in any court but within their owne townes and of the inhabitants therein such as they call Barons at the Coronation of Kings and Queenes support the Canopies over them yea and have a table by themselves that day spred and furnished on the Kings right hand c. And the Lord Warden himselfe who is alwaies one of the Nobilitie of most approved trust hath within his jurisdiction the authoritie of a Chancellour and Admirall in very many cases and enjoyeth other rights besides But now returne we to the places The Northside of this Country Tamis the soveraigne of all Rivers in Britaine runneth hard by as I have said before which having held on his course past Surrey forthwith being with a winding reach almost retired into himselfe doth there admit into his channell into the first limit of this shire Ravensburne a small water and of short course which riseth in Keston heath hard under the pitching of an ancient campe strange for the height of double rampiers and depth of double ditches of all that I have seene doubtlesse the worke of many Labouring hands Of what capacitie it was I could not discover for that the greatest part thereof is now severall and overgrowne with a thicket but verily great it was as may bee gathered by that which is apparent We may probably conjectture that it was a Roman Campe but I might seeme to rove if I should thinke it that Campe which Iulius Caesar pitched when the Britans gave him the last battaile with their whole forces and then having bad successe retired themselves and gave him leave to march to the Tamis side And yet certes Keston the name of the place seemeth to retaine a parcell of Kesars name for so the Britaine 's called him and not Caesar as wee doe As for the other small intrenchment not farre of by W. Wickham it was cast in fresh memory when old Sir Christopher Heydon a man then of great command in these parts trained the country people This water having passed by Bromeley a Mansion house of the Bishops of Rochester when it hath gathered strength the depth of his ford giveth name to Depe-ford a most famous Ship-docke where the Kings ships are built and such as be decaied repaired there also is a goodly Store-house and a Colledge as it were or incorporation ordained for the use of the navie The place was sometime called West-Greenwich and at the conquest of England fell to Cislebert Mamignot for his share whose Grand-child Walkelin defended Dover Castle against King Stephen and left behind him one onely daughter living who when her brother was dead by her marriage brought a rich inheritance called the Honor of Mamignot into the family of the Saies From hence the Tamis goeth to Green-wich that is the Greene Creeke for the creek of a river in the old English tongue was called Wic a place in times past famous for the Danish Fleet that lay there often at Rode and for the Danes crueltie shewed unto Ealpheg Archbishop of Canterbury whom in the yeare of our Lord a thousand and twelve they cruelly executed with most exquisite torments Whose death together with the cause thereof Ditmarus Mersepurgius who about the same time lived hath thus in the eighth booke of his Chronicles described I understood saith he by the relation of Sewald a pitifull deede and therefore memorable namely That the perfideous crew of Northman souldiours under Thurkil as yet their Captaine tooke that excellent prelate Archbishop of the Citie of Canterburie named Ealph●g with the rest and them after their wicked manner emprisoned and bound yea and put him to endure famine and unspeakeable paines This good man moved with humane frailtie promiseth unto them a summe of money and for the obtaining thereof did set downe a time betweene that if in this space he could not by some acceptable ransome escape this momentany death hee might yet in the meane while purge himselfe with many a groane to be offered as a lively sacrifice unto the Lord. But when all the time space appointed were come gone this greedy gulfe of Pirates called forth the servant of the Lord in threatning wise demands this tribute promised unto them to be spedily and out of hand paid Then he as a meeke Lamb Here am I quoth he ready to undergoe even for the love of Christ whatsoever ye presume now to doe against me that I may deserve to become an example of his servants And nothing am I troubled at this day And whereas I seeme unto you a lyer it is not mine owne will but great neede and povertie that hath done it This body of mine which in this exile I have loved overmuch I present as culpable unto you and I know it is in your power to doe with it what yee intend but my sinfull soule that regardeth not you I humbly commend to the Creator of all things As hee was thus speaking the whole rabble of these
it with King Henrie the Eighth Somewhat lower hard by Darent standeth Lullingstone where there was sometime a Castle the seat of a family of the same name but now of Sir Percival Hart descended from one of the coheires of the Lord Bray Then Darent giveth name unto Darentford commonly Dartford a great mercat towne well frequented and well watered where King Edward the Third built a Nunnery which King Henry the Eighth converted into a house for himselfe and his successours Heere the rivelet Crey anciently called Crecan intermingleth it selfe with Darent when in his short course hee hath imparted his name to five townelets which hee watereth as Saint Mary Crey Pauls Crey Votes-Crey North Crey and Crey-ford in former ages Crecanford where Hengist the Saxon the eighth yeare after his arrivall joyned battaile with the Brittaines and after he had slaine their captaines brought them under with so great a slaughter that afterwards hee never stood in feare of them but established his kingdome quietly in Kent From the river Darent or Dart unto the mouth of Medway the Thames seeth nothing above him but little townes pleasantly seated which to passe over in silence were no prejudice either of their fame or any thing els Yet amongst them is Swans-combe of which I have heretofore spoken of honorable memorie among the Kentish men for obtaining their the continuance of their ancient franchises afterward it was well knowne by the Montceusies men of great Nobility the owners therof who had there Barony here-about And by it Graves-end so called as Master Lambert is my author as the Gereves-end that is the limit of the Gereve or Reve. A towne as well knowne as any other in England for the usuall passage by water betweene it and London since the Abbat of Grace by the tower of London to which it appertained obtained of King Richard the second that the inhabitants of it and Milton onely should transport passengers from thence to London King Henrie the Eighth when he fortified the sea coast raised two Platformes or Block-houses here and two other opposite on Essex side Beyond Graves-end is Shorn held anciently by Sir Roger Northwood by service to carry with other the kings tennants a white ensigne fortie daies at his owne charges when the King warred in Scotland Somewhat more within the land lieth Cobham the habitation for a long time of the Barons of Cobham of whom Iohn Cobham the last of that name founded a Colledge here and a castle at Cowling who left one onely daughter wife to Sir Iohn de la Pole Knight Shee likewise bare but one daughter though married in her time to many husbands But by Sir Reginald Braibrooke onely had shee issue As for her husband Sir Iohn Old Castle whiles hee endeavoured to bring in innovation in religion was both hanged and burnt Ioane her onely daughter by Sir Reginald Braybrooke was wedded unto Thomas Broke of Somersetshire from whom six Lord Cobhams have lineally descended and flourished in honorable reputation untill our time From Graves-end a little country called Ho lying as a demy Island between rivers Thames and Medway stretcheth it selfe into the East and is for situation but unholsome At the entry hereof is Cowling Castle built by Iohn Lord Cobham in a moorish ground and Cliffe a good bigge towne so called of a cliffe upon which it standeth But whether it bee that Clives at Ho so famous in the tender age and infancie of our English Church by reason of a Synode there holden I dare not as others doe affirme considering that in regard of the site it is a place inconvenient for such an assembly and besides that Clives at Hoo seemeth to have beene within the Kingdome of the Mercians As for the river Medweg now called Medway and in the British tongue unlesse I misse of the truth Vaga whereunto afterward was added Med hath his spring head in the wood Anderida which is termed the Weald that is a wood-Wood-land country and taketh up the South-part of this region farre and wide At first whiles it carrieth but a slender streame it receiveth the Eden by Penshurst the seat anciently as it seemeth by the name of Sir Stephen de Penherst who also was called de Penshester a famous Warden of the Cinque ports but now the house of the Sidneies who derive their race from William de Sidney Chamberlaine to King Henrie the second out of which came Sir Henrie Sidney that renowned Lord deputy of Ireland who of the daughter of Iohn Dudley Duke of Northumberland and Earle of Warwicke begat Philip and Robert This Robert Iames our soveraigne King made right honorable first by the title of Baron Sidney of Penshurst and afterwards of Vicount Lisle But Sir Philip whom I cannot passe over in silence beeing the glorious starre of this familie a lively patterne of vertue and the lovely joy of all the learned sort fighting valerously with the enemy before Zutphen in Gelderland died manfully This is that Sidney whom as Gods will was he should be therefore borne into the world even to shew unto our age a sample of ancient vertues so his good pleasure was before any man looked for it to call for him againe and take him out of the world as beeing more worthy of heaven then earth Thus wee may see Perfect vertue sodainely vanisheth out of sight and the best men continue not long Then the river Medway branching it selfe into five streamlets is joyned with as many stone Bridges and thereof giveth the name of Tunbridge to the towne there situate as the towne of Bridges This about King William Rufus his time Richard sonne of Count Gilbert Grandchild to Godfrey Earle of Ewe Lord of Briony obtained in requitall for Briony in Normandie when there had bin long debate about Briony This Richard as William Gemeticensis writeth in recompence for the same castle received in England the towne of Tunbridge for it And the report goeth that the Lowy of Briony was measured round about with a line and with the same line brought into England hee received so much groūd measured out at Tunbridge Shortly after he built here a faire large castle fenced with the river a deepe ditch and strong walles and albeit it is now ruinous and 〈◊〉 Keepe attired with Ivie yet it manifestly sheweth what it was His posteritie who were Earles of Glocester and surnamed De Clare for that they were Lords of Clare in Suffolke built here a priorie for Chanons of Saint Augustines order founded the parish Church which was impropriated to the Knights of Saint Iohn of Hierusalem and compounded about the tenure of the Mannour for which there had beene long suit to hold it of the Archbishop of Canterburie by Knights fee and to be their high Stewards at their inthronizations From these Clares Earles of Glocester it came by an heire generall to Sir Hugh Audley Earle of Glocester and
by his onely daughter to the Earles of Stafford who were afterward Dukes of Buckingham from them by attainder to the Crowne It hath in latter ages beene beholden to Sir Andrew Iude of London for a faire free-Schoole and to Iohn Wilford for a causey toward London Three miles directly South from hence in the very limit of Sussex and neere Frant I saw in a white-sandy ground divers vastie craggie stones of strange formes whereof two of the greatest stand so close together and yet severed with so straight a line as you would thinke they had beene sawed asunder and Nature when she reared these might seeme sportingly to have thought of a Sea But to returne to the River From Tunbridge Medway passeth by Haudelo from whence came that Iohn Haudelo who happily marrying the heire of the Lord Burnell had issue by her a sonne who was called Nicholas summoned to Parliament among the Barons by the name of Burnell Then Medway increased with another water called Twist which twisteth about and insulateth a large plot of good ground runneth on not farre from Mereworth where stands a faire Castle like house which from the Earles of Arundell came unto the Nevils Lords of Abergevennie and Le Despencer whose heire in the right line is Marie Ladie Fane unto whom and her heires King Iames in the first Parliament that he held restored gave and granted c. the name stile title honour and dignitie of Baronesse le Despencer that her heires successively should be Barons le Despencer for ever Now by this time Medway having received a rivelet that looseth it selfe under ground and riseth againe at Loose serving thirteene fulling-mills hastneth to Maidstone which seeing the Saxons called it Medwegston 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 I beleeve verily it is the same VAGNIACAE which Antonine the Emperor mentioneth and Ninnius in his Catalogue of cities calleth corruply Caer Megwad for Medwag Neither verily doth the account of distance disagree From Noviomagus one way and Durobrovis another whereof I shall treat anone Under the latter Emperours as is to be seene in Peutegerus his table lately set out by M. Velserus it is named MADVS Thus as yeeres by litlte and little turne about so names likewise by little and little become changed A large faire and sweet towne this is and populous for the faire stone bridge it hath been beholding to the Archbishops of Canterbury Among whom to grace this place at the confluence of the waters Boniface of Savoy built a a small Colledge Iohn Vfford raised a palace for himselfe and successors which Simon Islip encreased and betweene them which it standeth in plight William Courtney erected a faire Collegiat Church in which he so great a Prelate and so high borne lieth lowly entombed One of the two common Gaoles or prisons of the whole County is here appointed And it hath beene endowed with sundrie priviledges by King Edward the sixt incorporated by the name of Major and Iurates all which in short time they lost by favouring rebels But Queene Elizabeth amply restored them and their Major whereas anciently they had a Portgreve for their head Magistrate This I note because this Greve is an ancient Saxon word and as yet among the Germans signifieth a Ruler as Markegrave Reingrave Landgrave c. Here a little beneath Maidstone Eastward a prety rivelet joyneth with Medway springing first at Leneham which towne by probable conjecture is the very same that Antonine the Emperour calleth DVROLENVM written amisse in some copies DVROLEVUM For Durolenum in the British language is as much to say as The water Lenum And besides the remaines of the name the distance also from DVROVENVM and DVROBROVIS proveth this to be Durolenum to say nothing of the scituation therof neere unto that high rode way of the Romans which in old time as Higden of Chester doth write led from Dover through the midst of Kent Hard by at Bocton Malherb hath dwelt a long time the family of the Wottons out of which in our remembrance flourished both Nicolas Wotton Doct. of the lawes who being of the Privy counsell to K. Henry the Eight K. Edward the sixth Q. Mary and Q. Elizabeth sent in Embassage nine times to forreine Princes and thrice chosen a Committè about peace between the English French and Scottish lived a goodly time and ran a long race in this life with great commendation of piety and wisedome and also Sir Edward Wotton whom for his approved wisedome in waightie affaires Q. Elizabeth made Controller of her house and K. Iames created Baron Wotton of Merlay Here under is Vlcomb anciently a mansiō of the family De sancto Leodegario corruptly called Sentleger Sellenger Motinden where Sir R. Rockesly descended from Kriol and Crevecur built a house who held lands at Seaton by serjeantie to be Vantrarius Regis when the K. goeth into Gascoin donec perusus fuerit pari solutarum pretii 4. d. which as they that understand Law Latin for I do not translate that he should be the Kings fore-foot-man until he had worn out a paire of shooes prized 4. d. Neither hath this river any other memorable thing nere to it but Leeds Castle built by the noble Crevequers who in ancient charters are named de Crevequer De crepito corde afterwards it was the unfortunate seat of Bartholomew L. Baldismer who perfidiously fortified it against K. EDVVARD the second who had freely given it him and after that payed the due price of his disloyaltie upon the gallowes The whole matter you may reade here if you list out of a briefe historie penned by Thomas de la More a gentleman that lived at the same time and which of late I did publish in print In the yeare 1521. Queene Isabel came to the Castle of Leeds about the feast of Saint Michael minding there to lodge all night but was not permitted to enter in The King offended hereat as taking it to be done in contempt of him called certaine of the neighbour inhabitants out of Essex and London and commanded them to lay siege unto the Castle Now there held the Castle at that time Bartholomew de Baldismer who having left therein his wife and sonnes was gone himselfe with the rest of the Barons to overthrow the Hughs de Spencer Meane-while when they that were inclosed within despaired of their lives the Barons with their associats came as farre as Kingston and by the mediation of the Bishops of Canterbury and London together with the Earle of Pembroch requested that the King would remove his siege promising to deliver up the Castle into the Kings hand after the next Parliament But the King considering well that the besieged could not long hold out nor make resistance being highly displeased angred at their cōtumacy would not give eare to the Barons petitions And when they had turned their journey another way hee afterward forced the Castle with no
Rochester would give unto the King an hundred pound of deniers At last by the intercession of Sir Robert Fitz Hamon and Henry Earle of Warwick the King granted it thus farre forth in lieu for the money which hee demanded for grant of the Manour that Bishop Gundulph because he was very skilfull and well experienced in architecture and masonrie should build for the King at his owne proper charges a Castle of stone In the end when as the Bishops were hardly brought to give their consent unto it before the King Bishop Gundulph built up the Castle full and whole at his owne cost And a little after King Henrie the first granted unto the Church of Canterbury and to the Archbishops the keeping thereof and the Constableship to hold ever after as Florentius of Worcester saith yea and licence withall to build in the same a towre for themselves Since which time it was belaied with with one or two great sieges but then especially when the Barons with their Al'armes made all England to shake and Simon Montford Earle of Leicester assaulted it most fiercely though in vaine and cut downe the wooden bridge which was after repaired But in the time of King Richard the Second Sir Robert Knowles by warlike prowes raised from low estate to high reputation and great riches built a very goodly stone bridge of arch-work with money levied out of French spoiles At the end of the said bridge Sir Iohn Cobham who much furthered the worke erected a Chapell for our elders built no notable bridge without a chapell upon which besides armes of Saints are seen the armes of the King and his three uncles then living And long after Archbishop Watham coped a great part of the said bridge with iron bars Vnder this Medway swelling with a violent and swift streame strugleth and breaketh through roaring and loud but forthwith running more still and calme becommeth a road at Gillingham and Chetham for a most royall and warlike navy of strong and serviceable ships and the same most ready alwaies at a short warning which our late gracious Ladie Queene Elizabeth with exceeding great cost built for the safegard of her subjects and terror of her enemies and for the defence thereof raised a castelet at Vpnore upon the river side Now Medway growne more full and carying a greater breadth with his curling waves right goodly and pleasant to behold runneth a long by the fruitfull fields untill that being divided by meeting with Iland Shepey which wee supposed to bee Ptolemeis TOLIATIS maketh his issue into the Aestuarie or Frith of Thames at two mouthes Of which twaine the Westerne is called West-Swale the Easterne that seemeth to have severed Sheppey from the firme land is named East-Swale but by Bede termed Genlad and Yenlet This Isle of the sheepe whereof it feedeth mighty great flockes being called by our ancestours Shepey that is The Isle of Sheep passing plentifull in corne but scarse of woods containeth twentie one miles in compasse Vpon the North-shore it had a little Monasterie now they call it Minster built by Sexburga wife of Ercombert the King of Kent in the yeare of 710. Vnder which a certaine Brabander of late beganne to trie by the furnace out of stones found upon the shore both Brimstone and Coperas It hath Westward in the Front thereof a very fine and strong Castle which King Edward the third built as himselfe writeth Pleasant for site to the terrour of his enemies and solace of his people unto which hee adjoyned a Burgh and in the honour of Philip the Queene his wife called it Queene-borough as one would say The Queens Burgh The Constable whereof at this day is Sir Edward Hoby who hath polished his excellent wit with learned studies Eastward is Shurland seated which belonged in late times to the Cheineies and now to Sir Philip Herbert second sonne to Henry Earle of Pembroch whom King Iames in one and the same day created Baron Herbert of Shurland and Earle of Mont-Gomerie This Isle appertaineth to the Hundred of Middleton so named of Middleton the towne now Milton This was some time a towne of the Kings aboade and of greater name by farre than at this day although Hasting the Danish pirate for to annoy it fortified a Castle hard by in the yeare 893. Neere adjoyning heereto Sittingburn a towne furnished with Innes sheweth it selfe with hiw new Major and corporation the remaines also of Thong Castle which as some write was so called for that Hengist built it by a measure of thongs cut out of a beasts hide when Vortigern gave so much land to fortifie upon as hee could encompasse with a beasts hide cut into thongs Since the conquest it was the seat of Guncelline of Baldismer of noble parentage whose sonne Bartholomew begat Guncelline and hee by the Inheretrie of Raulph Fitz-Barnard Lord of Kings-Downe was father to that seditious Sir Bartholomew Lord Baldismer of whom I spake he againe of Margaret Clare begat Sir Giles Lord Baldismer that died without issue also Margerie wife to William Roos of Hamlake Maude the wife of Iohn Vere Earle of Oxford Elizabeth espoused to William Bohun Earle of Northampton and afterward to Edmund Mortimer and Margaret whom Sir Iohn Tiptoft wedded from whom descended a goodly of-spring and faire race of great nobilitie Then saw I Tenham not commended for health but the parent as it were of all the choise fruit gardens and Orchards of Kent and the most large and delightsome of them all planted in the time of King Henrie the Eighth by Rich. Harris his fruterer to the publike good For thirty Parishes thereabout are replenished with Cherie-gardens and Orchards beautifully disposed in direct lines Amongst these is Feversham very commodiously situate For the most plentifull part of this countrey lieth round about it and it hath a creeke fit for bringing in and carrying forth commodities whereby at this day it flourisheth amongst all the neighbour townes It seemeth also in former times to have flourished considering that King Aethelstane assembled hither an assembly the Sages of his Kingdome and made lawes heere in the yeare of our redemption 903. King Stephen also he that usurped the Kingdome of England founded an Abbey heere for the Monkes of Clugny In which himselfe Maude his wife and Eustach his sonne were entombed Nigh thereto like as else where through this Countie are found pits of great depth which being narrow in the mouth and very spatious beneath have their certaine distinct roomes or chambers as it were with their severall supporting pillers of chalke Concerning these there are divers opinions I for my part cannot tell what to thinke of them unlesse they were those pits out of which the Britaines in old time digged forth chalke or white marle to dung their grounds withall as Plinie writeth For they sound pits saith hee An hundred foote deepe streight at the mouth but of great capacitie within like unto
these very same of which we now speake And verily no where else are they found but in a chalkie and marly soile Vnlesse a man would thinke that our English-Saxons digged such caves and holes to the same use and purpose as the Germans did of whom they were descended For they were wont as Tacitus writeth to make holes and caves under the ground and those to charge aloft with great heapes of dung as harbours of refuge for Winter and garners of receit for corne because by such like places they mitigate the rigour of cold wether and if at any time the enemie commeth hee wasteth onely the open ground but as for those things that lie hidden and buried under the earth they are either unknowne or in this respect doe disappoint the enemies for that they are to be sought for From above Feversham the shoare runneth on plentifull of shel-fish but especially oisters whereof there are many pits or stewes as far as Reculver and farther This Reculver is a place of ancient memorie named in the old English-Saxon Reaculf but in elder time REGVLBIVM For so it is named in the Roman Office booke Notitia Provinciarum which reporteth that the captaine of the primer band of the Vetasians lay heere in garrison under the Lieutenant of the Saxon-shoare for so was the sea coast a-long this tract called who had the command then of nine Ports as the L. Warden now hath of five Ports And verily the Roman Emperours coines digged up there give testimony to this antiquitie of the place In it Aethelbert King of Kent when he had made a grant of Canterbury to Augustine the Monk built himselfe a Palace and Bassa an English-Saxon beatified it with a Monasterie out of which Brightwald the Eighth Archbishop of Canterbury was elected Of this Monastery or Minster it was named Raculf-Minster what time as Edred brother to King Edward the Elder gave it to Christ-church in Canterbury Howbeit at this day it is nothing else but an uplandish country towne and if it bee of any name it hath it for the salt savory Oisters there dredged and for that Minster the steeples whereof shooting up their loftie spires stand the Mariners in good stead as markes whereby they avoide certaine sands and shelves in the mouth of the Thames For as he versifieth in his Philippeis Cernit oloriferum Thamisin sua Doridi amarae Flumina miscentem It now beholds swann-breeding Thames where he doth mix his streame With brackish sea Now are we come to the Isle Tanet which the river Stour by Bede named Wantsum severeth from the firme land by a small channell running betweene which river made of two divers rivelets in the wood-land called the Weald so soone as it goeth in one entire streame visiteth Ashford and Wye two prety Mercate townes well knowne Either of them had sometimes their severall Colledges of Priests the one built by Iohn Kemp Archbishop of Canterbury who was there borne the other to wit of Ashford by Sir R. Fogge Knight Wye also had a speciall fountaine into which God infused a wonderfull gift and vertue at the instant prayer of Eustace a Norman Abbat if we may beleeve Roger of Hoveden whom I would advise you to have recourse unto if you take delight in such like miracles As how the blind by drinking thereof recovered sight the dumbe their speech the deafe their hearing the lame their limbes And how a woman possessed of the devill sipping thereof vomited two toades which immediately were first transformed into huge blacke dogs and againe into asses and much more no lesse strange than ridiculous which some in that age as easily believed as others falsely forged Thence the Stour leaving East-well the inhabitation of the family of the Finches worshipfull of it selfe and by descent from Philip Belknap and Peoplesham goeth on to Chilham or as other call it Iulham where are the ruines of an old Castle which one Fulbert of Dover is reported to have built whose issue male soone failed and ended in a daughter inheritrice whom Richard the base sonne of King Iohn tooke to wife and had with her this Castle and the lands thereto belonging Of her hee begat two daughters namely Lora the wife of VVilliam Marmion and Isabell wife first to David of Strathbolgy Earle of Athole in Scotland afterward to Sir Alexander Baliol who was called to Parliament by the name of Lord of Chilham mother to that Iohn Earle of Athole who being condemned oftentimes for treason was hanged at the last upon a gibbet fifty foot high as the King commanded because he might be so much the more conspicuous in mens eies as he was of higher and nobler birth and being cut downe halfe alive had his head smitten off and the truncke of his body throwen into the fire a very cruell kinde of punishment and seldome seene among us And after his goods were confiscate King Edward the first bounteously bestowed this castle together with Felebergh Hundred upon Sir Bartholomew Badilsmer who likewise quickly lost the same for his treason as I have before related There is a constant report among the inhabitants that Iulius Caesar in his second voiage against the Britans encamped at this Chilham and that thereof it was called Iulham that is Iulius his Mansion and if I be not deceived they have the truth on their side For heere about it was when at his second remove he in his march staied upon the intelligence that his ships were sore weather-beaten and thereupon returned and left his army encamped tenne daies while he rigged and repaired the decaies of his Navy And in his march from hence was encountered sharply by the Britans and lost with many other Laberius Durus a Marshall of the field A little beneath this towne there is a prety hillocke to be seene apparelled in a fresh suit of greene sord where men say many yeeres agoe one Iullaber was enterred whom some dreame to have beene a Giant others a Witch But I conceiving an opinion that some antiquity lieth hidden under that name doe almost perswade my selfe that the foresaid Laberius was heere buried and so that the said hillocke became named Iul-laber Five miles from hence the river Stoure dividing his Channell runneth swiftly by DVROVERNVM the chiefe Cittie of this Countie and giveth it his name For Durwhern in the British tongue signifieth a swift river Ptolome calleth it in steed of Durovernum DARVERNVM Bede and others DOROBERNIA the English Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The Kentishmens citie Ninnius and the Britans Caer Kent that is the Citie of Cent wee Canterbury and the later writers in Latine Cantuaria A right antient citie this is and famous no doubt in the Romans time not over great as William of Malmesbury said 400. yeares since nor verie small much renowned both for the situation and exceeding fertility of the soile adjoining as also for
slaughter of them when at Lapis Tituli for so is that place named in Ninnius which we now call Stouar almost in the same sense and haven certainely it was hee put them to flight and forced them with all the speed they might to take their Pinnaces In which place also he gave commandement saith he that himselfe should bee buried to represse thereby as he thought the furious outrages of the English Saxons in like sort as Scipio Africanus did who commanded that his tombe should bee so set as that it might looke toward Africa supposing that his verie tombe would be a terror to the Carthaginians Here also at VVipped fleet so called of VVipped the Saxon there slaine Hengest discomfited the Britaines and put them to flight after hee had sore tired them with sundry conflicts S. Austine our Apostle as they call him many yeares after landed in this Isle unto whose blessing the credulous Clergie ascribed the plentifull fertility of the country and the Monke Gotceline cried out in this manner O the land of Tenet happy by reason of her fertilitie but most happy for receiving and entertaining so many Divine in-commers bringing God with them or rather so many heavenly citizens Egbert the third King of the Kentishmen to pacifie dame Domneva a devout Lady whom before time he had exceedingly much wronged granted here a faire piece of land wherein she errected a Monastery for 70. veiled virgins the prioresse whereof was Mildred for her holinesse canonized a Saint and the Kings of Kent bestowed many faire possessions upon it but Withred especially who that I may note the antiquitie and manner of livery of Seisin in that age out of the very forme of his owne Donation For the full complement of his confirmation thereof laied upon the holy altar a turfe of that ground which he gave at Humantun Heere afterward sundry times arrived the Danes who piteously empoverished this Island by robbings and pillages and also polluted this Monasterie of Domneva with all kind of cruelty that it flourished not againe before the Normans government Heere also landed Lewis of France who called in by the tumultuous Barons of England against King Iohn published by their instigation a pretended right to the Crowne of England For that whereas King Iohn for his notorious treason against King Richard his brother absent in the holy-Holy-land was by his Peeres lawfully condemned and therefore after the death of King Richard the right of the Crowne was devolved to the Queene of Castile sister to the said King Richard and that shee and her heires had conveied over their right to the said Lewis and his wife her daughter Also that King Iohn had forfeited his Kingdome both by the murther of his Nephew Arthur whereof he was found guilty by his Peeres in France and also by subjecting his Kingdomes which were alwaies free to the Pope as much as in him lay contrary to his oath at his Coronation and that without the consent of the Peeres of the Realme c. Which I leave to Historians with the successe of his expedition least I might seeme to digresse extraordinarily Neither must I passe over heere in silence that which maketh for the singular praise of the inhabitants of Tenet those especially which dwell by the roads or harbours of Margate Ramsgate and Brodstear For they are passing industrious and as if they were Amphibii that is both land creatures and sea creatures get their living both by sea and land as one would say with both these elements they be Fisher-men and Plough-men as well Husband-men as Mariners and they that hold the plough-taile in earing the ground the same hold the helme in steering the ship According to the season of the yeare they knit nets they fish for Cods Herrings Mackarels c. they saile and carry forth Merchandise The same againe dung and mannure their grounds Plough Sow harrow reape their Corne and they inne it Men most ready and well appointed both for sea and land and thus goe they round and keepe a circle in these their labours Futhermore whereas that otherwhiles there happen shipwrackes heere for there lie full against the shore those dangerous flats shallowes shelves and sands so much feared of Sailers which they use to call The Goodwinsands The Brakes The four-foots The whitdick c. these men are wont to bestir themselves lustily in recovering both ships men and Merchandize endangered At the mouth of Wantsum Southward which men thinke hath changed his channell over against the Isle stood a City which Ptolomee calleth RHVTVPIAN Tacitus PORTVS TRVTVLENSIS for Rhutupensis if Beatus Renanus conjectureth truely Antonine RHITVPIS PORTVS Ammianus Marcellinus RHVTVPIAH STATIO that is the Road of Rhutupiae Orosius THE HAVEN and City of Rhutubus the old English-Saxons as Beda witnesseth Reptacesler others Ruptimuth Alfred of Beverly nameth it Richberge we at this day Richborow Thus hath time sported in varying of one and the same name Whence this name should arise it is not for certaine knowen But seeing the places neere unto it as Sandwich and Sandiby have their denomination of Sandi I considering also that Rhyd Tufith in the British-tongue betokeneth a sandy fourd I would willingly if I durst derive it from thence This City seemed to have beene seated on the descent of an hill the Castle there stood overlooking from an higher place the Ocean which is now so farre excluded by reason of sandy residence inbealched with the tides that it comes hardly within a mile of it Right famous and of great name was this City while the Romans ruled here From hence was the usual passing out of Britan to France and the Neatherlands at it the Roman fleets arrived here it was that Lupicinus sent by Constantius the Emperour into Britaine for to represse the rodes and invasions of Scots and Picts both landed the Heruli and Batavians and Maesian regiments Heere also Theodosius the father of Theodosius the Emperour to whom as Symmachus witnesseth the Senate decreed for pacifying Britan armed Statues on horse-backe arrived with his Herculij Iovij Victores Fidentes for these were names of Roman regiments Afterwards when the Saxon Pirates impeached entercourse of merchants and infested our coasts with continuall piracies the Second Legion Augusta which being remooved by the Emperour Claudius out of Germany had remained many yeares in Garrison at Isea Silurum in Wales was translattd hither and had a Provost of their owne heere under the great Lieutenant and Count of the Saxon shore Which Provostship happily that Clemens Maximus bare who being heere in Britan by the soldiers saluted Emperour slew Gratian the lawfull Emperour and was afterwards himselfe slaine by Theodosius at Aquileia For this Maximus it was whom Ausonius in the verses of Aquileia called the Rhutupine robber Maximus armigeri quondam sub nomine lixae Faelix quae tanti spectatrix laeta triumphi Fudisti Ausonio Rhutupinum Marte latronem
Cotas either to bee revenged of the Britains who aided the Gaules as Strabo saith or in hope of British pearles as Suctonius reporteth or inflamed with an ambitious desire of glory as others doe record in the yeare before Christs nativitie fiftie foure and once againe in the yeare ensuing entred into Britaine having before hand sounded the havens by his espialls as Su●tonius and himselfe doth testifie and not as Roger Bachon fableth by setting certaine looking glasses upon the coast of Gaule and by Art perspective which by reflection multiplieth hidden formes What hee exploited here himselfe hath at large delivered in his Commentaries and I likewise before have summarily abridged out of him and the writings of Suetonius concerning Scaeva whose valourous service during the civill warre was notably seen above others at Dyrrachium and whom our Poet Ioseph of Excester in his Antiocheis and namely in these his verses touching Britaine reported I know not how truely to have beene a Britaine borne Hinc et Scaeva satus pars non obscura tumulius Civilis MAGNVM solus qui mole solutâ Obsedit meliorque stetit pro Caesare murus Here borne also was Scaeva he that bare no little sway In all these civill broiles the Fort that stood full in his way Alone he brake Pompey besieged was Caesars strongest stay But what were the exploits of Caesar in this our country learne you may of himselfe and out of that which hath before beene written For neither as yet have I met with that old father a Britaine whom Marcus Aper as we read in Quintilian saw in this Island who avowed that he was present at the battaile in which they assaied to keepe Caesar from landing when he came to warre upon them neither is it any part of my meaning now to write an Historie but a Topographie Vpon this shore lie out with a long traine certaine heapes in manner of bankes or rampiers which some imagine that the winde swept up together But I suppose them to have beene a fence and countermure or rather the Ship-campe which Caesar raised with ten daies and as many nights labour to haile up thereto his sea-beaten and shaken Navie and to defend it both against tempests and also the Britaines who in vaine did assaile it For I understand by relation of the dwellers thereby that this rampier is called Romes-worke as if it were A worke of the Romans And so much the rather believe I that Caesar arrived heere because hee writeth that seven miles from hence for so wee reade in the ancient bookes corrected by Flavius Constantinus a man of Consul degree the sea is kept in and compassed with such streight mountaines that for the higher places a dart may bee flung to the very shore verily as soone as we are past Deale a mightie ridge of steepe high Cliffs Cicero termeth them moles magnificas that is Stately cliffes bringing forth Samphyre in great plenty runneth for seven miles or there about as far as to Dover where it openeth it selfe and of that nature is the place that right as Caesar writeth betweene two hills it letteth in and encloseth the sea Within this partition and separation of the Cliffes lieth DVBRIS which Antonine the Emperour mentioneth the Saxons name it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and we Dover This name was given unto it as Darell out of Eadmer writeth because the place was shut up and hard to come unto For when as saith he in ancient times the sea there barbarous spreaded it selfe upon urgent necessitie to make it a more commodious haven they kept it in with more streight bounds Howbeit William Lambard with more probabilitie fetched the reason of this name from the word Dufyrrha which in the British language betokeneth a place steepe and upright The towne which is seated betweene high clyffes whereas some-time the haven was when the sea more insinuated it selfe as wee collect by the anchors and ship planks that are digged there up is more famous for the commodiousnesse of the haven such as it is and for readie passage into France than for any elegancie or great trade For it is a place of passage of all other most haunted and it was provided in old time by a speciall Statute that no man going forth of the realme in pilgrimage should else where embarque and take sea more-over it is reckoned one of the Cinque-ports and in times past it was charged to furnish and set out one and twenty ships unto the warres in the same manner and forme as Hastings did whereof I have already spoken Toward the sea now somewhat excluded by Beach it was fenced with a wall whereof some part as yet standeth It had a faire church consecrated unto Saint Martin founded by Whitred King of Kent an house also of the Knights-Templars which now are quite gone and nothing to bee seene of them It yeildeth likewise a seat for the Archbishop of Canterburies Suffragans who when the Archbishop is busied in weightier affaires mannageth for him matters that pertaine to Orders onely and not to the Episcopall jurisdiction From the top of a rough and crag●i● cliffe which mounteth up to a wonderfull height where it looketh downe to the sea a most statey Castle like unto a prettie Citie fortified right strongly with bul-warkes and many a Tower overlooketh and threatneth after a sort the sea under it Matthew of Paris calleth it the Key and Locke The Barre and Sparre of England The common sort of people dreameth that it was built by Iulius Caesar and verily I suppose by the British Bricks in the Chappell there that it was built by the Romans who used such in their great buildings What time as the Roman Empire declined they placed here a band or companie of the Tungricanes who were accounted among the Aides-Palatine out of whose armoury and munition happily were those big arrowes which the Castellanes doe now shew for wonders and were wont to bee discharged then and many yeares after before the invention of great Ordnance out of engines called Balistae like huge crosse-bowes bent by force of two or foure men From the entrance of the English Saxons into this land unto the expiation of their Kingdome no where could I as yet reade so much as one bare word of this Castle or the Towne save onely in certaine by-notes out of a Table that was heere hanged upon a wall which reported that Caesar having arrived at Deale and discomfited the Britaines at Baramdowne which is a plaine adjoyning fit for horse fight and meete to embattaile an armie in began the Castle of Dover and that Arviragus afterward fortified it against the Romans and stopped up the haven Also that after him King Arthur and his knights vanquished I wot not what rebels heere Howbeit a little before the Normans comming in it was reputed the onely defence and strength of England and for that cause William Duke of Normandie bound Harold by on oath to
These lands whilom by violence of breach and ruines great Such change makes time and what is it that long time doth not eate A sunder fell men say where as they both in one did grow The Seas brake in by force and through the mids did overthrow Both townes and grounds And Italy forthwith from Sicily side Did cut and them with in-let streight doth still part and divide Plinie sheweth likewise of Isles that Cyprus was rent from Syria Eubaea from Baeotia Besbicus from Bythinia being parts before of the maine land But none of the old writers was ever able to avouch that Britaine was so severed from the Maine onely those verses of Virgil and Claudian before cited by me in the very first entrance into this worke together with the conjecture of Servius Honoratus doe insinuate so much And yet Dominicus Marius Niger and Master Iohn Twin a right learned man and whosoever he was that wrested these verses made of Scicilia unto Britaine are of this opinion Britannia quondam Gallorum pars una fuit sed pontus aestus Mutavere situm rupit confinia Nereus Victor abscissos interluit aequore montes Some time was Britannie A part of France But swelling tides on hie Have changed the site and Nereus he as Conquerour hath torne The confines quite and runnes betweene the cliffs a sounder worne Considering therefore that in this matter there is no assured ground upon certaine authoritie the learned by laying and comparing the like examples in such narrow Seas as this for searching out of the truth propose these and such like points duly to be weighed and considered First whether the nature of the soyle in both shores be the same which verily is found here to be even so For the shore of either side where the distance betweene is narrowest riseth up with loftie cliffes of the same matter as it were and colour so as they may seeme to have beene riven asunder Secondly How great the breadth is of the sea or streight Certes the streight heere is not much broader than either the streight of Gibraltar or of Scicily to wit twenty foure miles over so as at the first sight one would imagine that these lands were severed by the billowes of the raging counter-seas For that the land sunke downeward by earth-quakes I hardly dare thinke seeing that this our Northen climate of the world is seldome shaken with earth-quakes and those when they happen be never great Thirdly How deepe the streight is As the Streight of Sicilie is sounded in depth 80. paces so this of ours exceedeth not 25. fathom whereas the sea on both sides of it is much deeper Fourthly Of what nature the ground is in the bothoms stony sandy beachy or else oasy and muddy And whether there be beds or shelves of sand lying scattered in the said narrow sea I have learned of Sailers that there lieth but one banke and the same in the very mid-channell which at a low water is scarce 3. fathom deepe But within halfe a league to the South-ward it is 27. fathom deepe and to the North-ward 25. Lastly Whether any place in either of the two shores taketh name in the ancient language of a breach a plucking away division separation or such like as Rhegium which standeth upon the Sicilian Streight is named of the Greeke word 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is to breake because in that place by the violent force of waves Sicilie was broken off from Italie But thinking as I doe heereof I can meet with none unlesse one would suppose that Vitsan upon the French shore had the name from Gwith which in the British tongue betokeneth a division or separation They that would have Britaine to have been the very continent of Gaule after that universall deluge argue from the wolves whereof there were many among us in old time like as at this day in Scotland and Ireland How say they could there be any of them in Ilands considering that all beasts and living creatures perished which were not in the Arke unlesse a long time after the earth had beene passable throughout and no Isles at all This question busied Saint Augustine but unto it he answereth thus Wolves and other beasts may bee thought to have swome over the sea unto Ilands yet onely to neere adjoyning Ilands as stags yearely for their reliefe and food swim out of Italy into Cicily But some Isles there be so far remote from maine lands that it is to be thought no beast could swim over If it should bee said men caught them and so brought them over with them it carrieth some credit that this might well have beene for the delight they had in hunting Although it cannot bee denied but by the commandement or permission of God even by the worke of Angels they might have beene transported But if so be they sprung out of the earth according to their first originall when as God said Let the earth bring forth a living soule then it appeareth much more evidently that all kind of living creatures were in the Arke not so much for the encrease and reparation of them as to figure out sundry Nations for the sacrament of the church in case the earth brought forth many creatures in those Ilands whereto they can not passe Thus Philosophizeth he Neither is any man able upon this argument to pronounce any thing more sufficiently and exquisitely For me it may suffice that I have propounded thereof let the Reader throughly waigh and examine it And hee that is able in this point to see deepest what is most true verily I will report him a man right skilfull and deepely quick-sighted On the other side in the Firme-land inhabited the MORINI so called in the ancient Gaules tongue as it were Maritimi sive Maris accolae men dwelling upon the Sea-coast or hard by the sea Their countrey is now termed Conto de Guines and Conte de Bolonois and had in old time two places of very great name to wit GESSORIACVM and ITIVM whence as Caesar hath recorded there was the best and most commodious passing out of Gaule or France into Britain and most Authors thinke it was that towne which now they call Callais But that famous and learned man Hospitalius Chancellour of France a very skilfull Antiquary avoucheth that Callais is no ancient towne but was only a small village such as the French-men terme Burgados untill that Philip Earle of Bolen walled it about not very many yeares before the English won it Neither is it red in any place that men tooke shipping there for Britaine before those times I thinke therefore that Itium is to bee sought some where else that is to say below at Vitsan neere unto Blacknesse which we call Whitsan the word sounding not much unlike to Itium For that all men crossed over out of this Iland thither and embarqued there to saile hither wee observed out of our owne histories in so much
Castle adjoyning hard unto it now named Stutfall which in the side and descent of a pretty hill tooke up about tenne acres of ground in compasse and the reliques of the wall remaine still of British bricke and flint so close laid and couched together with a kind of strong mortar made of lime sand and pibles that as yet time hath not given it the check and now although it be not an haven towne yet it retaineth still no small shew of the ancient dignitie it had For heere the Warden of the Cinque Ports at a place called Shipway useth to take his solemne oath when hee first entreth into his office and heere upon certaine set daies the custome was to decide causes betweene the inhabitants of the said Ports Some have thought that in this place a great river discharged it selfe into the sea for that one or two writers have made mention of the river Leman and the mouth of Leman at which the Danes Fleet in the yeare of our salvation 892. arrived But I suppose they are deceived in the description of the place both because there is no river heere but a very small one which streight waies being of no reckoning at all vanisheth as also for that the Archdeacon of Huntingdon a compendious authour and of good approved credit writeth that the said fleet arrived at the Haven Leman and saith not a word of the river Vnlesse a man would thinke with whom I dare not accord that the river Rother which intermingleth it selfe with the Ocean under Rhieine ran downe this way and changed his course by little and little when that champian plaine called Rumney Marsh grew unto the firme land this Marsh-country which from Lime containeth 14. miles in length and 8. in bredth and reckoneth two townes nineteene parishes and 44200. acres or there about by reason of ranke greene grasse most convenient for the grasing and feeding of beasts hath beene by little and little laied unto the land by the benefit of the sea Whereupon I may well and truely terme it the Seas-gift like as Herodotus called Aegypt the gift of the river Nilus and a very learned man termed the pastures of Holland the gifts of the North-wind and the river Rhene For the sea to make amends yeilded that againe in this place which it swallowed up else where in this coast either by retyring backe or by laying oze thereto from time to time as some places which in the remembrance of our grandfathers lay close unto the sea shore are now dis-joyned a mile or two from the sea How fruitful the soile is what a number of heards of cattel it feedeth that are sent thither from the furthest parts of Wale and England to be fatted what art and cunning is used in making of bankes to fence it against the violent risings of the sea one would hardly believe that hath not seene it And that it might be the better ordered certaine lawes of Sewers were made in the time of King Henry the third And King Edward the fourth ordained that it should be a Corporation consisting of a Bailive Iurates and the Communalty In the Saxons time the inhabitants thereof were called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Marshmen and verily the signification of that name accordeth passing well with the nature of the place Neither can I understand and conceive that ancient writer Aethelward when he reporteth That Cinulph King of the Mercians wasted Kent and the country which is called Mersc-warum And in another place That Herbyth a Captaine was by the Danes beheaded in a place named Mersc-warum if he meant not this very Marsh-country Rumney or Romeney and in former time Romenal which some conjecture by the name to have beene the Romans worke is the principall towne of this Marsh and one of the Cinque-ports whereof Old Romeney and Lid are accounted members which joyntly were charged with the setting forth of five ships of warre in that manner and forme as I have before said It is seated upon an hill of gravell and sand and had on the West side an haven of good receit and commodious withall for most of the winds before the sea with-drew it selfe from it The inhabitants as we read in King William the Conquerours booke were in regard of their sea service quitte and quiet from all custome beside for robbery peace-breach and Foristell And in those daies it flourished with the best For it was divided into twelue wards it had also five Parish-churches it had a Priorie and an Hospitall for sicke persons But in the reigne of Edward the first when the sea raging with violence of windes overflowed this tract and made pittifull waste of people of cattell and of houses in every place as having quite drowned Promhil a prety town well frequented it made the Rother also forsake his old channel which heere before time emptied himselfe into the sea and stopped his mouth opening a new and neerer way for him to passe into the sea by Rhie So as by little and little hee forsoke this towne Which ever since hath decreased and lost much of the forme frequency and ancient dignity Beneath this the land tending more East-ward maketh a Promontory we call it the Nesse as it were a nose before which lieth a dangerous flat in the sea and upon which standeth Lid a towne well inhabited whereunto the inhabitants of Promhill after that inundation aforesaid betooke themselves And in the very utmost point of this Promontory which the people call Denge-nesse where there is nothing but beach and pible stones Holme-trees grow plentifully with their sharp prickey leaves alwaies greene in manner of underwood for a mile and more Among the said beach neere unto Ston end is to be seene an heape of greater stones which the neighbour Inhabitants call Saint Cryspins and Crispinians tombe whom they report to have beene cast upon this shore by ship-wracke and from hence called into the glorious companie of Saints From thence the shore retyring it selfe is directly carried into the West bringing foorth peason among the beach which grow up naturally like clusters of grapes a number together and in tast little differ from our field peason and so runneth on as farre as to the Rother-Mouth by which for some space Kent is divided from Sussex The course of this river on Sussex side wee have in part briefely spoken of before On Kent side it hath Newenden which I almost parswade my selfe was that haven so long sought for and which the booke Notitia Provinciarū called ANDERIDA the old Britains Caer Andred and the Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 first because the Inhabitants by a continued tradition constantly affirme it was a most ancient towne and Haven whereof they shew the plot then for that it is situate by the wood Andredswald that tooke the name of it lastly because the English-Saxons seeme to have termed it Brittenden that is The
Chamberlaine to King Richard the Third attainted by King Henry the Seventh and slaine in the battaile at Stoke in the quarrell of Lambert that Counterfeit Prince whose sister Fridiswid was Grandmother to Henry the first Lord Norris Hence Windrush hodling on his course watereth Whitney an ancient Towne and before the Normans daies belonging to the Bishops of Winchester to which adjoyneth Coges the chiefe place of the Barony of Arsic the Lords whereof branched out of the family of the Earles of Oxford are utterly extinguished many yeeres agoe Neere unto this the Forest of Witchwood beareth a great breadth and in time past spread farre wider For King Richard the Third disforested the great Territory of Witchwood betweene Woodstocke and Brightstow which Edward the Fourth made to be a Forest as Iohn Rosse of Warwicke witnesseth Isis having received Windrush passeth downe to Einsham in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 a Manour in times past of the Kings seated among most pleasant medowes which Cuthwulfe the Saxon was the first that tooke from the Britans whom he had hereabout vanquished and long after Aethelmar a Nobleman beautified it with an Abbay the which Aethelred King of England in the yeere of Salvation 1005. confirmed to the Benedictine Monkes and in his confirmation signed the priviledge of the liberty thereof I speake out of the very originall grant as it was written with the signe of the sacred Crosse but now is turned into a private dwelling house and acknowledgeth the Earle of Derby Lord thereof Beneath this Evenlode a little river arising likewise out of Cotteswald speedeth him into Isis which riveret in the very border of the Shire passeth by an ancient Monument standing not farre from his banke to wit certaine huge stones placed in a round circle the common people usually call them Rolle-rich-stones and dreameth that they were sometimes men by a wonderfull Metamorphosis turned into hard stones The draught of them such as it is portrayed long since heere I represent unto your view For without all forme and shape they bee unequall and by long continuance of time much impaired The highest of them all which without the circle looketh into the earth they use to call The King because hee should have beene King of England forsooth if hee had once seene Long Compton a little Towne so called lying beneath and which a man if he goe some few paces forward may see other five standing at the other side touching as it were one another they imagine to have been knights mounted on horse backe and the rest the Army But loe the foresaid Portraiture These would I verily thinke to have beene the Monument of some Victory and haply erected by Rollo the Dane who afterwards conquered Normandie For what time as he with his Danes and Normans troubled England with depredations we read that the Danes joined battaile with the English thereby at Hoche Norton and afterwards fought a second time at Scier stane in Huiccia which also I would deeme to be that Mere-stone standing hard by for a land Marke and parting foure shires For so much doth that Saxon word Scier-stane most plainly import Certainly in an Exchequer booke the Towne adjacent is called Rollen-drich where as it is there specified Turstan le Dispenser held land by Serjeanty of the Kings Dispensary that is to be the Kings Steward As for that Hoch-Norton which I spake of before for the rusticall behaviour of the Inhabitants in the age afore going it grew to be a proverbe when folke would say of one rudely demeaning himselfe and unmane●ly after an Hoggish kinde that hee was borne at Hocknorton This place for no one thing was more famous in old time than for the woefull slaughter of the Englishmen in a foughten field against the Danes under the Raigne of King Edward the Elder Afterwards it became the seat of the Barony of the D' Oilies an honourable and ancient Family of the Norman race of whom the first that came into England was Robert de Oily who for his good and valiant service received of William Conquerour this Towne and many faire possessions whereof hee gave certaine to his sworne brother Roger Ivery which were called the Barony of Saint Valeric But when the said Robert departed this life without issue male his brother Niele succeeded him therein whose sonne Robert the second was founder of Osney Abbay But at length the daughter and heire generall of this house D' Oily was married to Henry Earle of Warwicke and she bare unto him Thomas Earle of Warwicke who dyed without issue in the Raigne of Henry the Third and Margaret who deceased likewise without children abeit shee had two husbands John Marescall and John de Plessetis both of them Earles of Warwicke But then that I may speake in the very words of the Charter of the Grant King Henry the Third granted Hoch-norton and Cudlington unto John de Plessetis which were in times past the possessions of Henry D'Oily and which after the decease of Margaret wife sometime to the foresaid John Earle of Warwicke fell into the kings hand as an Escheat of Normans lands To have and to hold untill the lands of England and Normandy were common Howbeit out of this ancient and famous stocke there remaineth at this day a family of D' Oilies in this shire Evenlode passeth by no memorable thing else but La Bruer now Bruern sometime an Abbay of white Monks and after he hath runne a good long course taketh to him a Brooke neere unto which standeth Woodstocke in the English Saxon language 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is A woody place where King Etheldred in times past held an assembly of the States of the Kingdome and enacted Lawes Heere is one of the Kings houses full of State and magnificence built by King Henry the First who adjoyned also thereunto a very large Parke compassed round about with a stone wall which John Rosse writeth to have beene the first Parke in England although we read once or twise even in Doomesday Booke these words Parcus silvestris bestiarum in other places In which sense old Varro useth the word Parcus which some thinke to be but a new word But since that Parkes are growne to such a number that there bee more of them in England than are to be found in all Christendome beside so much were our Ancestours ravished with an extraordinary delight of hunting Our Historians report that King Henry the Second being enamoured upon Rosamund Clifford a Damosell so faire so comely and well favoured without comparison that her beauty did put all other women out of the Princes minde in so much as now shee was termed Rosa mundi that is The Rose of the World and for to hide her out of the sight of his jealous Juno the Queene he built a Labyrinth in this house with many inexplicable windings backward and forward Which notwithstanding is no where to be seene at this day The Towne
the Pestane Rose surpasse Her eyes gemmes of great cost Her haire the Lilies fresh and white Her necke the hoary frost And as she runnes her haire all wet She doth behind her cast Which waving thus she kembeth slick And layeth even at last Lo Isis sudainly out of The Waves so mild doth shew His lovely face his eies withall Glitter with golden hew As they from dropping visage send Their beames the fields throughout Whiles one anothers neck with armes Displayd they clip about Full sweetly he doth Tama kisse Whom he hath wish'd so long A thousand kisses twixt them twain Doe now resound among With clasping close their armes wax pale Their lips their hearts linke fast To nuptiall chamber thus they both Jointly descend at last Where CONCORD with religious FAITH Together both ymet Knit up the knot of wedlock sure With words in forme yset And now the pipes of thyrled box On every side resound The water Nymphes the Dryades The wanton Satyrs round About the place disport and dance The measures cunningly Whiles on the grasse they foote it fine In rounds as merily The Birds heerewith in every wood Melodiously doe sing And ECHO her redoubled notes In mirth strives forth to ring All things now laugh the fields rejoice The CVPIDS as they fly Amid the aire on bridled birds Clap hands right pleasantly BRITONA hand-fast-maker shee All clad in Laurell green Play 's on the Harp what ever acts Our auncestours have seene Shee sings how BRITANNY from all The world divided was When Nereus with victorious Sea Through cloven rocks did passe And why it was that Hercules When he arrived heere Upon our coast and tasted once The mudlesse TAMIS cleere Did Neptun's sonne high Albion Vanquish in bloudy fight And with an haile-like storme of stones Kild him in field out-right And when Vlysses hither came What Altars sacred were By him How Brute with Corinae His trusty friend and fere Went foorth into the Western parts And how that Caesar he When he had sought and found turn'd back With feare from Britannie And after some few verses interposed This said then Tame and Isis both In love and name both one Hight Tamisis more joy's therein And hastning to be gone Ariseth up and leaping out With hastfull hot desire Advanceth forth his streame and seekes The Ocean main his sire From Dorchester Tamis goeth to Benson in old time Bensingston which Marian calleth Villam Regiam that is The Kings towne and reporteth That Ceaulin tooke it from the Britans in the yeere of our Lord 572. and that the West-Saxons kept the possession of it 200. yeeres after For then Offa the King of Mercians thinking it would be for his commoditie and honor both that they should have nothing on this side the river wonne it and subjected it to him But at this day it goeth for a village onely and hath a house of the Kings hard by sometime a faire place but now running exceedingly to ruine as being not very wholsome by reason of the foggy aire and mists arising from a standing water adjoyning This house of certaine Elmes called Ewelme but commonly New-Elme was built by William de la pole Duke of Suffolke who having taken to Wife Alice the onely daughter of Thomas Chaucer had by her faire lands heereabout as elsewhere and beside this house he erected also a faire Church wherein the said Alice lieth buried and a proper Hospitall But Iohn Earle of Lincolne his Grand child who by King Richard the Third had beene declared heire apparent to the Crowne overthrew in some sort the happie estate of this Family For whiles he plotted and projected seditiously to rebell against King Henry the seventh he was attainted and slaine in the battell at Stoke and Edmund his brother being for like cause attainted the possessions became C●owne-land Then King Henrie the Eighth made this house an Honour by laying unto it certaine Manours and Wallingford among others which before had a long time belonged unto the Dukes of Cornewall The Tamis from hence having fetched a great compasse about windeth in manner backe againe into himselfe enclosing within it the Hundred of Henley mounting high with Hills and beset with thicke Woods which some doe thinke the ANCALITES that yeelded themselves unto Caesars protection did inhabite Here is ●ix-br●nd and Stonor ancient Possessions of the Families of Stonores who since the time of King Edward the Third when Sir Iohn Stonore was chiefe Justice in the Common-pleas flourished with great alliance and faire revenues untill they were transferred by an Heire generall to Sir Adrian Fortescue unhappily attainted whose daughter Heire to her mother was married to the first Baron Wen●worth Next neighbour hereunto is Pus-hull which the Family of D'oily held by yeelding yeerely to the King a Table-cloth of three shillings price or three shillings for all service Under this Southward standeth Greies Rotherfield a house which in times past Walter Grey the Archbishop of Yorke gave freely unto William Grey his Nephew the Inheritance whereof by the Baron of D'Eincourt was devolved upon the Lovels Now it is the dwelling house of Sir William Knolles Treasurer of the Kings House whom Iames our King for his faithfull service performed unto Queene Elizabeth and to be performed unto himselfe advanced to the honourable title of Baron Knolles of Rotherfield Nere unto it Henley upon Tamis in old time called Hanleganz sheweth it selfe in the very confines of the shires The Inhabitants whereof be for the most part Watermen who make their chiefest gaine by carrying downe in their Barges wood and Corne to London neither can it make report of any greater antiquity than that in times past the Molinies were Lords thereof from whom by the Hungerfords who procured unto the towne of King Henry the Sixth the liberty of holding two faires it came by right of Inheritance unto the honourable house of the Hastings And where now the Tamis hath a wooden Bridge over it they say in times past there stood one of stone arched But whether this Bridge were here that Dio writeth the Romans passed over when they pursued the Britans along this tract who below had swom over the river hard it is for a man to say From Henley the Chiltern-bils hold on with a continued ridge running Northward and divide this Country from Buckinghamshire at the foote whereof stand many small townes among which these two are of greatest note Watlington a little mercate towne belonging sometime to Robert D' Oily and Shirburne a prety Castle of the Quatremans in times past but now the habitation of the Chamberlans descended out of the house of the Earles of Tankervill who having beene long agoe Chamberlains of Normandy their Posterity relinquishing that old name of Tankervills became surnamed Chamberlans of the Office which their ancestours bare To omit Edgar Algar and other English Saxons officiall Earles of Oxford Since after the Conquest the title of
tooke to wife the onely daughter of the Baron Sands dwelt while he lived in a very faire house and on the other Chesham Bois where and at Draiton Beauchamp the Family of Cheneis hath anciently flourished From hence I passed scarse three miles North-ward but I came to the ridge of Chilturne-hils which divideth the whole region a crosse from the South-west to the North-east passing by many villages and small townes among which that of greatest note is Hamden which gave name to an ancient and well spred Family in these parts In the very East corner of these hils Ashridge a retiring house sometime of the kings standeth upon an ascent where Edmund Earle of Cornewall sonne to Richard king of the Romans founded a religious house for a new Order of religious men in those daies called Bon Hommes by him first brought into England Who professed the rule of S. Augustine and were according to the manner of the Order of the Eremitans clad in skie coloured garments From this ridge or edge of the Hils there is a large prospect every way downe into the Vale beneath which I said was the other part of the Shire This almost throughout is a plaine Champion standing likewise upon a clay-soile stiffe tough and fruitfull with pasture medowes most plentifull of grasse and fodder feeding innumerable flockes of sheepe whose soft and passing fine fleeces are in request even as farre as to the Turkish Nations in Asia But it is all naked and bare of woods unlesse it bee on the West side where among others is Bernewood whose Forresters surnamed de Borstall were famous in former times About this Forrest the yeare after Christs Nativity 914. the Danes furiously raged and then happily it was that the ancient Burgh was destroied whose antiquity Romane coined peeces of money there found doe testifie which afterwards became the royall house of King Edward the Confessour But now it is a Country Village and in stead of Buri-Hill they call it short Brill In this Vale although it be exceeding full of Townes and Villages yet very few of them are memorable and those either upon the River Tame or Vsa that is Ouse Not far from Tame which watereth the South part of the Vale upon the rising of a prety hill standeth a faire Mercat Towne well occupied and compassed about with many most pleasant greene medowes and pastures commonly called Ailesbury of which the whole Vale is termed the Vale of Ailesbury The Engish-Saxons called it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 when Cuthwulf the Saxon won it in the yeare of our Lord 572. For the Brittish name whereby it was knowne before in continuance of time is utterly lost Famous it hath beene in times past especially for Ediths sake there fostered who having obtained of her Father ●rewald this Towne for her Dowry forthwith by persuasion of the religious people bad the world and her husband farewell and taking her selfe to the Vale for opinion of holinesse and devotion in that most pregnant and fruitfull age of Saints became wonderfully renowned even as farre as to working of miracles together with her sister Eadburg of whose name there is a little Towne among the Hils as yet called Eadburton In the time of King William the Conquerour it was a Manour of the Kings and certaine yard-yard-lands were here given by the King with this condition that the Possessour or Holder thereof marke ye nice and dainty ones should finde 〈◊〉 for the Kings bed when the King came thither In the Raigne of Edward the First certaine Gentlemen named de Ailesbury who bare for their Armes A●ure a Crosse Argent were by report but I know not how truely the Lords thereof certaine it is they were in those daies men of the better sort and of great good note and such as by marriage with the daughter and heire of the Caihaignes who were in times past Lords of Meddleton Caihaignes came to a faire and goodly inheritance which at last by heires generall came to the Chaworths the Staffords of Gra●ton c. But now the greatest name and reputation that it hath is by grazing and feeding of Cattaile Very much beholden also it is unto Justice Baldwin who not onely adorned it with publique aedifices but also made a passing faire causey to it where the way was very deepe and cumbersome for three miles or thereabout in length Heere round about in every side flockes of sheepe pasture most plenteously in mighty numbers loden with fleeces to the great gaine and commodity of their Masters especially at Quarendon a Lordship belonging to Sir Henry Lee an honourable Knight of the Order of the Garter Eythorp which sometime was the Dinhams and now the Dorm●●s Knights and also Winchindon appertaining to the Family of the Godwins Knights likewise c. Lower wee meet with nothing memorable upon Tame unlesse Cheardesley be as many thinke it is the place which was called in the Saxon-tongue Cerdick-flega of Cerdic the Saxon who fought a very sharpe and bloudy battaile there with the Britans Neere unto it standeth Credendon now Crendon which was the Capitall house belonging to the Honour of Giffard for so were those lands termed which fell unto Walter Giffard at the Conquest of England whose sonne the second Earle of Buckingham and Ermingard his wife built the Abbay of Noteley thereby in the yeare 1112. But his cozen Hugh de Bolebec from whom by the females the Earles of Oxford are descended held of him no small possessions in these parts And the ruines of Bolebec Castle are seene hard by within the Parish of Whitchurch Neere unto which is Ascot the principall Mansion house of the Dormers from whence descended the Dutches of Feria in Spaine and others of noble note Usa or Ouse in times past Isa and the second Isis which with a soft and still streame passeth through the North part of this Province arising in Northampton-shire and presently from his head when being yet but small he closely entereth into this Shire runneth beside Bittlesden which Robert de Mapertshall Lord of the place gave unto Osbert de Clinton Chamberlaine to King Henry the First a powerfull Courtier that he might not be punished as a Fellon for stealing away one of the Kings Hounds But he restored it unto him againe with a cozin of his in marriage yet lost he the same in the hot broile of the civill war under King Stephen and Ernald Bois by way of a benefit and courtesie received it at the hands of Robert Earle of Leicester And hee in the yeare of Christ 1127. founded there a little Monastery for the Cistertien Monks Then Ouse saluteth Buckingham the Shire Towne which as Marian saith King Edward the elder in the yeare of our Lord 915. fortified with a Rampire and Sconces on both bankes against the Invasions and assaults of the Danes Yet was it of no great name as it may seeme in the
for that among other matters hee had consulted with a Wizard about succession of the Crowne was beheaded a noble man exceeding much missed and lamented of good men Which when the Emperour Charles the fifth heard he said as it is written in his life That a Butchers dogge had devoured the fairest Bucke in all England alluding to the name Buckingham and the said Cardinall who was a Butchers sonne Ever since which time the splendour of this most noble family hath so decaied and faded that there remaineth to their posterity the bare title onely of Barons of Stafford whereas they were stiled before Dukes of Buckingham Earles of Stafford Hereford Northampton and Perth Lords of Brecknock Kimbalton and Tunbridge There are reckoned in this small Shire Parishes 185. BEDFORD Comitatus olim pars CATHIFVCLANORVM BEDFORD-SHIRE BEDFORD-SHIRE is one of the three Counties which we said the Cattieuchlani inhabited On the East-side and the South it joyneth to Cambridge-shire and Hertford-shire on the West to Buckingham-shire and on the North to Northamton-shire and Huntingdon-shire and by the river OVSE crossing over it is divided into two parts The North-side thereof is the more fruit●ull of the twaine and more woody the other toward the South which is the greater standeth upon a leaner soile but not altogether unfertile For it yeeldeth foorth aboundantly full white and bigge Barley In the mids it is somewhat thicke of woods but Eastward more drie ground and bare of wood Ouse where it entereth into this shire first visiteth Turvy the Lord Mordants house who are beholden to King Henry the Eighth for their Barony For he created Iohn Mordant a wise and prudent man who had wedded the daughter and one of the coheires of H. Vere of Addington Baron Mordant then runneth it by Harwood a Village in old time called Hareleswood where Sampson surnamed Fortis founded a Nunnery and where in the yeere of our redemption 1399. a little before those troubles and civill broiles wherewith England a long time was rent in peeces this river stood still and by reason that the waters gave backe on both sides men might passe on foote within the very chanell for three miles together not without wondering of all that saw it who tooke it as a plaine presage of the division ensuing Afterward it passeth by Odill or Woodhill sometimes Wahull which had his Lords surnamed also De Wahul men of ancient Nobility whose Barony consisted of thirty knights fees in divers countries and had here their Castle which is now hereditarily descended to Sir R. Chetwood knight as the inheritance of the Chetwoods came formerly to the Wahuls From hence Ouse no lesse full of crooked crankes and windings than Maeander it selfe goeth by Bletnesho commonly called Bletso the residence in times past of the Pateshuls after of the Beauchamps and now of the Honourable family of S. Iohn which long since by their valour attained unto very large and goodly possessions in Glamorgan-shire and in our daies through the favor of Q. Elizabeth of happy memory unto the dignity of Barons when she created Sir Oliver the second Baron of her creation Lord S. Iohn of Bletnesho unto whom it came by Margaret Beauchamp an inheritrice wedded first to Sir Oliver S. Iohn from whose these Barons derive their pedigree and secondly to Iohn Duke of Somerset unto whom she bare the Lady Margaret Countesse of Richmond a Lady most vertuous and alwaies to be remembred with praises from whose loines the late Kings and Queenes of England are descended From hence Ouse hastneth by Brumham a seat of the Dives of very ancient parentage in these parts to Bedford in the Saxon-tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the principall towne and whereof the Shire also taketh name and cutteth it so through the middest that it might seeme to be two severall townes but that a stone bridge joyneth them together A towne to be commended more for the pleasant situation and ancientry thereof then for beauty or largenesse although a man may tell five Churches in it That it was Antonines LACTODORVM I dare not as others doe affirme considering that it standeth not upon the Romans Military road way which is the most certaine marke to finde out the station and Mansions mentioned by Antonine neither are there heere any peeces of Romane money ever digged up as far as I can learne I have read that in the Brittish tongue it was named Liswidur or Lettidur but it may seeme to have been translated so out of the English name For Lettuy in the British language signifieth Common Innes and so Lettidur Innes upon a river like Bedford in English Beds or Innes at a fourd Cuthwulf the Saxon about the yeere of our salvation 572. beneath this towne so vanquished the Britans in an open pitch field that then presently upon it finding themselves over-matched yeelded up many townes into his hands Neither should it seeme that the Saxons neglected it For Offa the most puissant King of the Mercians choose heere as we read in Florilegus for himselfe a place of sepulture whose tombe the river Ouse swelling upon a time and carrying a more violent and swifter streame than ordinary in a floud swouped cleane away Afterwards also when it was rased downe and lay along by occasion of the Danish depredations K. Edward the Elder repaired it and laid unto it upon the South-side of the river a prety townlet which in that age as we finde in the best copy of Hovedon was called Mikesgat In the time of King Edward the Confessor as we read in that booke which King William the Conqueror caused to be written when he tooke the survey of England It defended it selfe for halfe an Hundred in wars expeditions and shipping The land belonging to this towne was never bided After this it suffered far more grievous calamities under the Normans For when Pain de Beauchamp the third Baron of Bedford had built heere a Castle there arose not any storme of civill war but it thundred upon it so long as it stood Stephen when with breach of his oath he intercepted to himselfe the Kingdome of England first forced this Castle and with very great slaughter of men won it afterwards when the Barons had taken armes against King Iohn William de Beauchamp Lord thereof and one of the Captaines of their side surrendred it unto their hands But a yeere or two after Falco de Breaut laid siege thereto and forthwith the Barons yeelded and the King in free gift bestowed it upon him Yet the unthankefull man raised up a world of warre againe upon King Henry the third He pulled downe Churches to strengthen this Castle and exceedingly damnified the territory adjoyning untill the King besieged it and when after threescore daies he had quelled the stubborne stomackes of these rebels brought this nest and nourse of sedition into his owne hands It will not be I hope distastfull to the reader if I set
the clouds disparcled and golden dayes in deed shone upon it Since when it never sustained any great calamity to speake of but through the speciall favour and indulgence of Princes obtained very large and great Immunities beganne to bee called The Kings Chamber and so flourished a new with fresh trade and traffique of Merchants that William of Malmesbury who lived well neere about that time termed it A noble and wealthy City replenished with rich Citizens and frequented with the commerce of Occupiers and Factours comming out of all lands And Fitz-Stephen living also in those dayes hath left in writing that London at that time counted an hundred and twenty two Parish Churches and thirteene Covents of religious Orders also that when a Muster and shew was made of able men to beare Armes they brought into the Field under their Collours forty thousand footemen and twenty thousand horsemen Then was it enlarged with new buildings and the spacious Suburbs stretched forth from the gates a great length on every side but Westward especially which are the greatest and best peopled In which are twelve Innes ordained for Students of our Common law whereof foure being very faire and large belong to the judiciall Courts the rest to the Chauncery besides two Innes moreover for the Serjeants at Law Herein such a number of young Gentlemen doe so painefully ply their bookes and study the Law that for frequency of Students it is not inferiour either to Angiers Cane or Orleance it selfe as Sir Iohn Fortescue in his small Treatise of the Lawes of England doth witnesse The said foure principall houses are The Inner Temple the Middle Temple Graies Inne and Lincolns Inne Those two former named stand in the very place where in times past during the Raigne of King Henry the Second Heraclius Patriarch of Jerusalem consecrated a Church for Knights Templars which they had newly built according to the forme of the Temple neere unto the Sepulchre of our Lord at Hierusalem For at their first institution about the yeare of our Lord 1113. they dwelt in part of the Temple hard by the Sepulchre whereof they were so named and vowed to defend Christian Religion the Holy Land and Pilgrimes going to visite the Lords Sepulchre against all Mahometans and Infidels professing to live in chastity and obedience whereupon all men most willingly and with right loving hearts embraced them so that through the bounteous liberality of Princes and devout people having gotten in all places very faire Possessions and exceeding great wealth they flourished in high reputation for Piety and Devotion yea and in the opinion both of the holinesse of the men and of the place King Henry the Third and many Noble men desired much to bee buryed in their Church among them Some of whose Images are there to bee seene with their legges acrosse For so they were buryed in that Age that had Taken upon them the Crosse as they then termed it to serve in the Holy Land or had vowed the same Among whom was William Marshall the elder a most powerfull man in his time William and Gilbert his sonnes Marshalles of England and Earles of Penbroch Upon William the elder his Tombe I some yeares since read in the upper part Comes Penbrochiae and upon side this Verse Miles eram Martis Mars multos vicerat armis Of Mars I was a doughty Knight Mars vanquished many a man in fight But in processe of time when with insatiable greedinesse they had hoorded great wealth by withdrawing tith's from churches appropriating spiritual livings to themselves and other hard meanes their riches turned to their ruine For thereby their former piety was after a manner stifled they fell at jarre with other religious orders their professed obedience to the Patriarch of Ierusalem was rejected envy among the common sort was procured which hope of gain among the better sort so enkindled that in the yeere of our salvation 1312. this order was condemned of impiety and by the Popes authority utterly abolished Howbeit their possessions were by authority of the Parliament assigned to the Hospitalier Knights of S. Iohn of Ierusalem least that such Lands given to pious and good uses against the Donours will should bee alienated to other uses And yet it is apparent out of ancient writings that this place after the expulsion of the Templers was the seat and habitation of Thomas Earle of Lancaster and of Sir Hugh Spenser King Edward the Second his minion afterwards of Sir Aimer de Valence Earle of Pembroch and in the end turned into two Colledges or Innes of Lawyers Of the rest of these Innes I have found nothing at all by reading But the generall voyce goeth that the one was the dwelling house of the Lord Greies of Wilton and the other of the Earles of Lincolne Nere unto this K. Henry the third erected betweene the New and the Old Temple an house of Converts for the maintenance of those that were converted from Iudaisme to the Christian Truth which King Edward the Third appointed afterwards for rolls and records to be kept therein and thereof at this day it is called The Rowls These Suburbs with houses standing close together and stately habitations of the Nobles and great Men of the Land along the Tamis side reach out as farre as to Westminster Among which these are the most memorable here Bride-well where King Henry the Eighth built a royall house for the entertainment of Charles the Fifth Emperour but now it is an House of Correction Buckhurst house or Salisbury Court belonging sometimes to the Bishops of Salisbury the White Freers or Carmelite Freers The Temples whereof I speake Then without the Bars Essex house built by the Lord Paget Arondel house before called Hampton place and Somerset house built by Edward Semer Duke of Somerset The Savoy so named of Peter Earle of Savoy who there dwelt which Queene Aeleonor wife to King Henry the Third purchased of the fraternity of Mont-joy and gave it to her Sonne Edmund Earle of Lancaster Whose Posterity dwelt in it a long time untill that King Henry the Seaventh dedicated it as an Hospitall for the Poore Worcester-house late Bedford-house Salisbury-house Durham-house built by Antony Becke Bishop of Durham and Patriarch of Jerusalem and thereby the onely ornament of this part the Britain-Burse built by the Earle of Salisbury and so named by King Iames Yorke-house in times past Bath-house and Northampton-house now begunne by Henry Earle of Northampton But what meane I to name these places 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 None claime them wholy for their owne Fortune disposeth them every one By this Suburbs Westminster which sometime was more than a mile distant is conjoyned so close unto the Citty of London that it seemeth a member thereof whereas it is a Citty of it selfe having their peculiar Magistrates and Priviledges It was called in times past Thorney of Thornes but now Westminster of the West situation
not onely furnished with all sorts of Traffique but also with the liberall Arts and Sciences To passe over the House of the Society of the House commonly called the Stilyard as the Easterlings yard and the waters conveighed by pipes under the ground into all parts of the City and very goodly conducts or cisternes castellated to receive the same also the new conveyance of water devised by the skilfull travell of Peer Maurice a German who by meanes of a forcer or wheele with pipes placed at a certaine levell brought water of late out of the Tamis into a great part of the City To omit all these I say it is so adorned every where with Churches that RELIGION and GODLINESSE seem to have made choise of their residence herein For the Churches therein amount to the number of one hundred twenty and one more verily than Rom● it selfe as great and holy as it is can shew Besides Hospitals for diseased persons it maintaineth also sixe hundred Orphane children or thereabout in Christs Church Hospitall and poore people upon contribution of Almes about 1240. c. A long time it would aske to discourse particularly of the good lawes and orders of the laudable government of the port and dignity of the Major and Aldermen of their forward service and loyalty to their Prince of the Citizens courtesie the faire building and costly furniture the breed of excellent and choise wits their gardens in the Suburbs full of dainty arbours and banqueting roomes stored also with strange herbes from forraigne countries of the multitude strength and furniture of their ships the incredible store of all sorts of Merchandise two hundred thousand broad-clothes beside other An●werp alone hath received from hence every yeare and of the superabundance of all things which belong to the furniture or necessity of mans life For right truly wrote that Hadrianus Iunius in his Philippeis Tecti● opibúsque refertum Londinum si fas numeroso cive superbum Larga ubi foecundo rerum undat copia cornu Thicke built with houses London is with riches stuffed full Proud if we may so say of men that therein live and dwell Wherein most plenteous wise abound all things that tongue can tell And Iul. Scaliger in his Poem of Cities Vrbs animis numeróque potens r●bore genti● For peoples courage numbers power it is a City strong And another Poet hath powred out these Verses also concerning London if you deigne to reade them LONDINUM gemino procurrit littore longè Aemula materna tollens sua lumina Troia Clementer surgente jugo dum te●dit in ortum Urbs peramaena situ coelóque solóque beata Urbs pietate potens numeroso cive superba Urbsque Britannorum quae digna BRITANNIA dici Haec nova doctrinis Lutetia mercibus Ormus Altera Roma viris Chrysaea secunda metallis Along both bankes out stretched farre the Citie LONDON lies Resembling much her mother Troie aloft she lifts her eies Whiles on a gentle rising hill she beareth toward East A City pleasant for her site in aire and soile much blest Religious and populous and hence she lookes on hie And well deserves for to be cal'd the Britans Britanie For learning new Lutetia Ormus for Traffique mich A second Rome for valiant men Chrysae for metals rich In this manner likewise versified Henry of Huntingdon in praise of London while King Stephen raigned about foure hundered yeares since Ibis in nostros dives Londonia versus Quae nos immemores non sinis esse tui Quando tuas arces tua moenia mente retracto Quae vidi videor cuncta videre mihi Fama● loquax nat a loqui moritura silendo Laudibus crubait fingere falsa tuis Thou also shalt of Verses ours Rich London have thy part For why we cannot thee forget so great is thy desart When I thinke of thy stately Towres thy faire and spacious Wall Which I have seene me thinkes therewith I see no * lesse then all This pratling fame that 's borne to prate and talk'd she not would dye In all the praise that goes of thee hath bash'd to tell one lye Another Poet in like manner pleasantly played upon London in this sort Hac Urbs illa potens cui tres tria dona ministrant Bacchus Apollo Ceres pocula carmen ador Hac Urbs illa potens quam Iuno Minerva Diana Mercibus arce feris ditat adornat alit This is that City strong to which three gifts are given by three By Bacchus Ceres and Phoebus Wine Wheat and Poetree This place sterne Pallas Iuno Queene Diana Hunters-feer Adorn's enricheth and doth feed with towres with wares with deer But in a more grave note and serious stile a friend of mine and a praise worthy person Master Iohn Ionston Professor of Divinity in the Kings University of S. Andrewes URBS AUGUSTA cui coelúmque solúmque salúmque Cuíque favent cunctis cuncta elementa bonis Mitius haud usquàm coelum est uberrima Tellus Fundit inexhausti germina laeta soli Et pater Oceanus Tamisino gurgite mistus Convehit immensas totius orbis opes Regali cultu sedes clarissima Regum Gentis praesidium cor anima atque oculus Gens antiqua potens virtute robore belli Artium omnigenûm nobilitata opibus Singula contemplare animo attentúsque tuere Aut Orbem aut Orbis dixeris esse caput This City well AUGUSTA call'd to which a truth to say Aire Land Sea and all Elements shew favour every way The weather no where milder is the ground most rich to see Doth yeeld all fruits of fertile soile that never spent will bee And Ocean that with Tams streame his flowing tyde doth blend Conveis to it commodities all that the world can send The noble seat of Kings it is for port and roialty Of all the Realme the fence the heart the life and lightsome ey The people ancient valorous expert in chivalry Enriched with all sorts and meanes of Art and mysterie Take heedfull view of every thing and then say thus in briefe This either is a world it selfe or of the world the chiefe But of these and such like particulars Iohn Stowe Citizen of London and a famous Chronicler hath discoursed more at large and more exactly in that his Survey of London which he lately published Now will I take my leave of my deere native Country and bid London a diew after I have given this onely note that the Pole is here elevated fiftie one degrees and foure and thirty scruples and the Meridian distant from the farthest West-poynt three and twenty degrees and five and twenty scruples That the Fidicula symbolizing in nature with Venus and Mercurie is the Tropick starre which glanceth upon the Horizon but never setteth and the Dragons head is reputed by Astronomers to be the Verticall starre over head From London the Tamis watering Redcliff so called of the Red-cliffe a prety fine Towne and dwelling place of Sailers as
which he had overrunne by robbing and ransacking From hence Breton speedeth it selfe by Higham whence the family of Higham is so named to Stour which joyntly in one streame runne not farre from Bentley where the Talmachs of a celebrate ancient house flourished for a long time and after a few miles neere unto Arwerton the house long since of the family of the Bacons who held this Manour and Brome by conducting all the footemen of Suffolke and Norfolke from S. Edmunds dike in the warres of Wales Now it belongeth to the Parkers haereditarily who by the Fathers side derive their descent from the Barons Morley and by the Mothers from the Calthrops a Family sometime of great account in these parts Beneath this Stour falleth into the Ocean and at the very mouth thereof the river Orwell or Gipping dischargeth it selfe together with it This River springeth up in the very navell or centre as one would say of this shire out of two fountaines the one neere to Wulpet the other by Gipping a small Village Wulpet is a Mercat towne and soundeth as much as The Wolves pit if wee may beleeve Nubrigensis who hath told as prety and formall a tale of this place as is that fable called the TRUE NARRATION of Lucian namely how two little Boyes forsooth of a greene colour and of Satyrs kinde after they had made a long journey by passages under the ground from out of another world from the Antipodes and Saint Martins Land came up heere of whom if you would know more repayre to the Author himselfe where you shall finde such matter as will make you laugh your fill if you have a laughing spleene I wote not whether I were best to relate here into what a vaine hope of finding gold at Norton hard by a certaine credulous desire of having enticed and allured king Henry the Eight but the digging and undermining there sufficiently shew it although I say nothing But between Gipping and Wulpet upon an high hill remain the tokens of Hawhglee an ancient Castle taking up much about two Acres of ground Some affirme this to have beene called Hagoneth Castle which belonged to Ralph le Broc and that in the yeere 1173. it was by Robert Earle of Leicester won and overthrowne in the intestine warre betweene king Henry the Second and his unkindely disloyall sonne Upon the same River are seene two little Mercat Townes Stow and Needham and not farre from the banke Hemingston in which Baldwin Le Pettour marke his name well held certaine lands by Serjeanty the words I have out of an old booke for which on Christmasse day every yeere before our soveraigne Lord the King of England he should performe one Saltus one Suffletus and one Bumbulus or as wee read elsewhere his tenour was per saltum sufflum pettum that is if I understand these tearmes aright That hee should daunce puffe up his cheekes making therewith a sound and besides let a cracke downeward Such was the plaine and jolly mirth of those times And observed it is that unto this Foe the Manour of Langhall belonged Neere unto the mouth of this river we saw Ipswich in times past Gippwich a faire towne resembling a Citty situate in a ground somewhat low which is the eye as it were of this shire as having an Haven commodious enough fenced in times past with a trench and rampire of good trade and stored with wares well peopled and full of Inhabitants adorned with foureteene Churches and with goodly large and stately edifices I say nothing of foure religious houses now overturned and that sumptuous and magnificent Colledge which Cardinall Wolsey a Butchers sonne of this place here began to build whose vast minde reached alwayes at things too high The body politike or corporation of this towne consisteth as I was enformed of twelve Burgesses Portmen they terme them out of whom are chosen yeerely for the head Magistrates two Baillives and as many Justices out of foure and twenty others As touching the Antiquity thereof so farre as ever I could observe the name of it was not heard of before the Danish invasion whereof it smarted For in the yeere of salvation 991. the Danes sacked and spoyled it and all the Sea coast with so great cruelty that Siritius Archbishop of Canterbury and the Nobles of England thought it the safest and best course they could take to redeeme and buy their peace of them for the summe of ten thousand pounds Neverthelesse within nine yeeres they made spoyle of this towne againe and presently thereupon the Englishmen valiantly encountred them in the field but through the cowardly running away of one man alone named Turkill as writeth Henry of Huntingdon for in matter of warre things of small weight otherwise are of right great moment and sway very much our men were put to flight and let the victory slip out of their hands In the reigne of S. Edward as we finde in the Survey booke of England out of this towne Queene Edeva had two parts and Earle Guert a third part and Burgesses there were eight hundred paying custome to the King But after the Normans had possessed themselves of England they erected a pile or Castle here which Hugh Bigod defended for a good while against Stephen the usurping King of England but surrendred it in the end This fort is now quite gone so as there remaine not so much as the ruines thereof Some say it was in the parish of Westfield hard by where is to be seene the rubbish of a Castle and where old Gipwic as men say stood in times past I thinke verely it was then demolished when K. Henry the second laied Waleton Castle neer unto it even with the ground For it was a place of refuge for Rebels and here landed those three thousand Flemings whom the nobles of Englād had called in against him what time as he unadvisedly hee had made Prince Henry his sonne King and of equall power with himselfe and the young man knowing no meane would bee in the highest place or none set upon a furious desire of the Kingdome most unnaturally waged warre against his owne father Albeit these Castles are now cleane decaied and gone yet this Shore is defended sufficiently with an huge banke they call it Langerston that for two miles or thereabout in length lyeth forth into the maine Sea as hee saith not without great danger and terrour of such as saile that way howbeit the same serveth very well for Fishermen to dry their fishes and after a sort is a defence unto that spatious and wide Haven of Orwell And thus much for the South part of this Shire From hence the curving Shore for all this East part lyeth full against the Sea shooting forth Northward straight-way openeth it selfe to the Deben a Riveret having his spring-head neere unto Mendelesham unto which Towne the Lord of the place H. Fitz Otho Master
a small Towne which for no other thing is memorable but because Anna a Christian King was there buried whom Penda the Mercian slew in a pitched Field It was beautified by King Henry the First with a Colledge of Chanons who granted the same as a Cell to the Chanons of Saint Osiths And it was made a Mercate by the meanes of Iohn Lord of Clavering unto whom King Edward the Second gave this Liberty together with the Faire And verily a goodly Inheritance hee had in this Tract as who derived his Descent from the Daughter and Heire of William Cheney who held the Barony of Horsford in the County of Norfolke and erected the little Abbay at Sibton Heere the Promontory Easton-Nesse shooteth out and reacheth farre into the East which is deemed to bee the farthest East point in all Britaine Ptolomee calleth it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or EXTENSIO And that you may not doubt that this is the very same which wee call Easton bee it knowne unto you that Eysteney in the British tongue is the same that in Greeke 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and in Latine Extensio that is A stretching forth although this name may seeme with as good probability to have beene imposed in our English Language of the Situation Eastward Upon the point of this Promontory standeth Easton a Village of Fishermen well neere eaten up by Sea and on South side of this Promontory Southwold lieth in the Plaine full against the open shore of the sea a Towne well enough frequented through the benefit of an Haven that the River Blith emptying it selfe there into the Sea maketh and at every high water it is so invironed with the waves that it seemeth to bee an Island and a man would wonder that it is not overflowne In so much as when I saw the manner thereof I called that saying of Cicero into my remembrance What should I speak of the Sea Tides about Spaine and Britaine and of their Flowing and Ebbing at certaine times Surely they cannot bee without the hand of God who hath restrained and gaged the waves within their bounds More within the land Wingfield sheweth it selfe where the walles of a Castle halfe downe are to bee seene which hath given name to a family in this Tract that is spred into a number of branches and is besides for knighthood and ancient Gentility renowned and thereof it was the principall seat Also Dunnington which standeth much upon the Lord thereof Sir Iohn Philips father to that Sir William who married the daughter and Heire of Baron Bardolph whose daughter and Heire likewise Iohn Vicount Beaumont tooke to Wife But now the Habitation it is of the ancient Family of the Rousses Not farre from hence standeth Huntingfield which had a Baron of that name in King Edward the Third his time and neere unto it Heveningham the residence of the Family of Heveningham knights who are knowne to bee of very great antiquity and not farre off standeth Halesworth in times past Healsworda an ancient Towne of the Argentons and now of the Alingtons unto which Sir Richard Argenton obtained at the hand of King Henry the Third the liberty of a Mercate I gave you to understand before that two small Rivers Ouse the least and Waveney on the North side divided this County from Norfolke which Riverets rising out of a Marish ground by Lophamford from two springs but a little a sunder one from another take their courses divers wayes with creekes full of shallow fourds Along by Ouse which runneth Westward there is nothing in this Quarter to bee seene worth the report By Waveney side that tendeth Eastward first is Hoxon in times past Hegilsdon ennobled by reason of King Edmunds Martyrdome For there the most cruell and bloudy Danes that I may use the words of Abbo having bound the most Christian King to a tree for that hee would not renounce Christianity shot him in with sharpe arrowes all his body over augmenting the paines of his torment with continuall piercing him with arrow after arrow and thus inflicted wound upon wound so long as one arrow could stand by another And as a Poet of middle time versified of him Iam loca vulneribus desunt nec dum furiosis Tela sed hyberna grandine plura volant Though now no place was left for wound yet arrowes did not faile These furious Wretches still they flie thicker than winter haile In which place afterwards stood a very faire house of the Bishops of Norwich untill they exchanged it not long since for the Abbay of Saint Benet Hard by at Brome dwelt a long time the family of Cornwalleis of knights degree of whom Sir Iohn Cornwal was Steward of Edward the Sixth his Houshold while hee was Prince and his sonne Sir Thomas for his wisdome and faithfulnesse became one of the privie counsell to Queene Mary and Controller of her royall House Beneath it lieth Eay that is The Island so called because it is watered on every side with brookes where are to bee seene the rubbish ruines and decayed walles of an old Castle that belonged to Robert Malet a Norman Baron But after that he under King Henry the First was deprived of his Dignity because he sided with Robert Duke of Normandy against the King the said King bestowed this Honour upon Stephen Earle of Bullen who being afterwards the Vsufructuary King of England left it unto his son William Earle of Warren But after hee had surrendred his State to King Henry the Second and lost his life in the expedition of Tholose the King held it in his owne hands untill that King Richard the First confer'd it upon Henry the Fifth of that name Duke of Brabant and of Lorain together with King Stephens Neece by his daughter who had beene a professed Nunne Long time after when it was now devolved againe upon the Kings of England King Edward the third gave it as I have read to Sir Robert Vfford Earle of Suffolke Neither must I passe over in silence Bedingfield neere adjoyning which gave the name to a worshipfull and ancient Family that received very much reputation and credit from the Heire of the Family of Tudenham From thence by Flixton in stead of Felixton so named of Faelix the first Bishop of these parts like as many other places in this Shire the River Waveney runneth downe to Bungey and spreadeth it selfe in manner round about it where Hugh Bigod fortified a Castle both by artificiall workmanship and also by naturall situation when as the seditious Barons tossed all England to and fro with stormes of rebellion Concerning which Castle as impregnable he was wont to vaunt in these termes Were I in my Castle of Bungey Upon the River of Waveney I would ne care for the King of Cockeney Yet notwithstanding afterwards he obtained at the hands of King Henry the Second by giving him
Picot Sheriffe of this Shire and of the Peverels from whom by one of the daughters this and other Possessions came unto Sir Gilbert Pech the last of whose house after he had otherwise advanced his children by his second wife ordained King Edward the First to be his Heire For in those dayes the Noble men of England brought into use againe the custome of the Romanes under their Emperours which was to nominate them their heires if they were in any disfavour with their Soveraignes But in the Barons warre in King Henrie the Third his dayes this Castle was burnt downe being set on fire by Ribald L' Isle At which time Walter de Cottenham a respective person was hanged for Rebellion By what name writers termed this River it is a question some call it Granta others Camus And unto these I rather incline both for that the course thereof is somewhat crooked for so much doth Cam in the British tongue signifie whence a certaine crooked river in Cornwall is named Camel and also because that ancient towne CAMBORITUM which Antonine the Emperour mentioneth in his third journey of Britaine stood upon this river as I am well neere induced to beleeve by the distance by the name and also by the peeces of Romane mony found here nigh unto the bridge in great store For CAMBORITUM signifieth A Fourd at Camus or a Fourd with crooked windings For Rith in our British or Welsh tongue betokeneth A Fourd which I note to this end that the Frenchmen may more easily perceive and see what is the meaning of Augustoritum Darioritum Rithomagus and other such like in France Howbeit the Saxons chuse rather to call our Camboritum 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which name it keepeth still but whence it was derived I cannot yet see If I should fetch it from Gron a Saxon word that signifieth a Fenny place I might perhaps goe wide And yet Asserius termed once or twice certaine fennish and marish grounds in Somersetshire by a mungrell name halfe Saxon and halfe Latine Gronnas paludosissimas and very well knowne it is that a City in West Frisland which is situate in such a ground is named Groningen But let other hunt after the derivation of this name About the yeere of Christ 700. this was a little desolate Citty as saith Bede whiles hee reporteth that neere unto the walles there was found a little trough or coffin very cunningly and finely wrought of Marble and covered most fitly with a lidde of the like stone But now a small Village it is one part whereof Henry Lacie Earle of Lincolne gave unto his base sonne Henry with this condition that his sonnes and their posterity which a good while since be cleane worne out should have no other Christian name but Henry the other part Henry the Sixth King of England comming out of the house of Lancaster into whose hands the Patrimony of Earle Lacie fell graunted unto the Kings Colledge in Cambridge which was either a part or else a plant of that ancient Camboritum so neere it commeth unto it both in situation and name Neither can I easily beleeve that Grant was turned into Cam for this might seeme a deflexion some what too hardly streined wherein all the letters but one are quite swallowed up I would rather thinke that the common people reteined the terme of the ancient name of Camboritum or of the river Cam although writers used more often the Saxon name Grantbridge This Citty which being the other University of England the other eye the other strong-stay as it were thereof and a most famous Mart and store-house of good Literature and Godlines standeth upon the river Cam which after it hath in sporting wise besprinkled the West side thereof with many Islets turning into the East divideth it into two parts and hath a Bridge over it whence arose this latter name Cambridge Beyond the bridge is seene a large and ancient Castle which seemeth now to have lived out his full time nigh Maudlen Colledge On this side the Bridge where standeth the greatest part by farre of the City you have a pleasant sight every where to the eye what of fair streets orderly raunged what of a number of Churches and of sixteene Colledges sacred mansions of the Muses wherein a number of great learned men are maintained and wherein the knowledge of the best Arts and the skill in tongues so flourish that they may be rightly counted the fountaines of Literature Religion and all Knowledge whatsoever who right sweetly bedew and sprinkle with most holesom waters the gardens of the Church and Common-wealth through England Neither is there wanting any thing here that a man may require in a most flourishing Vniversity were it not that the ayre is somewhat unhealthfull arising as it doth out of a fenny ground hard by And yet peradventure they that first founded an University in that place allowed of Platoes judgement For he being of a very excellent and strong constitution of body chose out the Academia an unwholsome place of Attica for to study in that so the superfluous ranknesse of body which might overlay the minde might be kept under by the distemperature of the place Neverthelesse for all this our forefathers men of singular wisedome dedicated this place and not without divine direction unto learned Studies and beautified it with notable workes and buildings And least we should seeme in the worst-kinde unthankefull to those singular Patrons of learning or rather that I may use the words of Eumenius toward the Parents of our Children let us summarily rehearse both themselves and the Colledges also which they founded and consecrated to good Literature to their honourable memory and that out of the Cambridge Story The report goeth that Cantaber a Spaniard 375. yeeres before the Nativity of Christ first began and founded this University Also that Sebert King of the East-Angles restored it againe in the yeere after Christs birth 630. Afterwards being other whiles overthrowne and destroyed with the Danish stormes it lay a long time forlorne and of no account untill all began to revive under the Normans governement And not long after Innes Hostels and Halles were built for Scholers howbeit endowed with no possessions But Hugh Balsham Bishop of Ely in the yeere 1284. built the first Colledge called Peter-house and endowed it with Lands whose example these ensuing did imitate and follow Richard Badew with the good helpe and furtherance of Lady Elizabeth Clare Countesse of Vlster in the yeere 1340. founded Clare Hall Lady Mary S. Paul Countesse of Pembroch in the yeere 1347. Pembroch Hall The Guild or Society of Corpus Christi Brethren Corpus Christi Colledge which is called also S. Bennet Colledge William Bateman Bishop of Norwich about the yeere 1353. Trinity Hall Edmund Gonevil in the yeere 1348. and Iohn Caius Doctor of Physicke in our time Gonevil and Caius Colledge Henry the Sixth King
is fenny and therefore impassable and it endeth nere to Cowlidge where the passage by reason of woods was more cumbersome And it was the limit as well of the Kingdome as of the Bishopricke of the East Angles Who was the author of so great a peece of worke it is uncertaine Some later writers say it was King Canutus the Dane whereas notwithstanding the said Abbo made mention of it who died before that Canutus obtained the Kingdome of England and the Saxon Chronicle where it relateth the rebellion of Athelwolph against King Edward the Elder calleth it simply Dyke and sheweth That King Edward laid waste whatsoever lieth betweene the Dyke and the river Ouse as farre as to the North Fennes also that Aethelwold the rebell and Eohric the Dane were at that time slaine there in battell But they who wrote since Canutus times termed it Saint Edmunds limit and Saint Edmunds Dyke and verily thinke that King Canutus cast it up who being most devoted to Saint Edmund the Martyr granted unto the religious Monkes of Saint Edmunds Bury for to make satisfaction for the wicked cruelty of Swan his father wrought upon them very great immunities even as farre as to this Dyke whence it is that William of Malmesbury in his booke Of Bishops writeth thus The Customers and Toll gatherers which in other places make foule worke and outrage without respect or difference of right and wrong there in humble manner on this side Saint Edmunds Dike surcease their quarrels and braules And certaine it is that these two fore-fences last named were called Saint Edmunds Dykes For Mathew Florilegus hath recorded that the said battell against Aethelwolph was fought betweene the two Dykes of Saint Edmund Nere unto Rech standeth Burwel a Castle in later times of the Lord Tiptoft which in those most troublesome times of King Stephen Geffrey Mandevill Earle of Essex who by violent invasion of other mens possessions lost much honour valiantly assaulted untill that being shot through the head with an arrow he delivered those countries from the feare they had stood in a long time Scarce two miles off stands Lanheath where for these many yeeres the Cottons right worshipfull Gentlemen of Knights degree have dwelt From which Wicken is not farre distant which came to the Family of the Peytons by a daughter and coheire of the Gernons about Edward the Thirds time as afterward Isleham descended to them by a coheire of Bernard in Henry the Sixth's time which Knightly Family of Peytons flowred out of the same Male-stocke whence the Vffords Earles of Suffolke descended as appeareth by their Coate-armour albeit they assumed the surname of Peyton according to the use of that age from their Manour of Peyton-hall in Boxford in the County of Suffolke Upon the same Dyke also is seated Kirtling called likewise Catlidge famous in these dayes by reason of the principall house of the Barons North since Queene Mary honoured Sir Edward North with that title for his wisedome but in times past it was famous for a Synode held there what time as the Clergy men were at hot strife among themselves about the celebration of the feast of Easter The higher and Northerly part of this Shire is wholly divided into river Isles and being distinguished by many Ditches Chanels and Draines with a pleasant greene hew all Summer time contenteth the eyes of the beholders but in Winter wholly in manner over-covered with water farther every way than a man is able to ken resembleth in some sort a very Sea They that inhabited this fennish Country and all the rest beside which from the edge and borders of Suffolke as farre as to Wainflet in Lincolne-shire conteineth threescore and eight miles and millions of acres lying in these foure Shires Cambridge Huntingdon North-hampton and Lincolne were in the Saxons time called Girvii that is as some interpret it Fen-men or Fen-dwellers A kind of people according to the nature of the place where they dwell rude uncivill and envious to all others whom they call Vpland-men who stalking on high upon stilts apply their mindes to grasing fishing and fowling The whole Region it selfe which in winter season and sometimes most part of the yeere is overflowed by the spreading waters of the rivers Ouse Grant Nen Welland Glene and Witham having not loades and sewers large enough to voide away But againe when their Streames are retired within their owne Channels it is so plenteous and ranke of a certaine fatte grosse and full hey which they call Lid that when they have mowen downe as much with the better as will serve their turnes they set fire on the rest and burne it in November that it may come up againe in great abundance At which time a man may see this Fennish and moyst Tract on a light flaming fire all over every way and wonder thereat Great plenty it hath besides of Turfe and Sedge for the maintenance of fire of reed also for to thatch their Houses yea and of Alders beside other watery Shrubbes But chiefly it bringeth forth exceeding store of willowes both naturally and also for that being planted by mans hand they have serv'd in good steed and often cut downe with their manifold increase and infinit number of heires to use Plinies word against the violent force of the waters rushing against the bankes Whereof also as well here as in other places there be baskets made which seeing the Britains call Bascades I for my part that I may note so much by the way do not understand the Poet Martiall in that Distichon unlesse hee meaneth these among the Presents and Gifts sent to and fro Barbara de pictis veni Bascauda Britannis Sed me jam mavult dicere Roma suam By barbarous name a Baskaud I from painted Britans came But now Rome faine would call me hers although I be the same Besides al this the herb Scordiū which also is called Water Germāder groweth plentifully here hard by the ditches sides but as for these Fenny Ilands Foelix a writer of good antiquity hath depainted them forth in these words There is a Fen of exceeding great largenesse which beginning at the bankes of the river Gront arising somewhere with sedge plots in other places with blacke waters yeelding a duskish vapour with woods also among the Isles and having many winding turnes of the banke reacheth out in a very long tract from South to North-East as farre as to the Sea And the very same Fenne William a Monke of Crowland in the life of Guthlake hath thus described in verse Est apud Angligenas à Grontae flumine longo Orbe per anfractus stagnosos fluviales Circumfusapalus Orientalisque propinqua Littoribus Pelagi sese distendit ab Austro In longum versus Aquilonem gurgite tetro Morbosos pisces vegetans arundine densa Ventorum strepitus quasi quaedam verba susurrans A spatious Fenne in England lies from
another place this Dignity had an end and therewith the stately part of the Towne by little and little was empaired untill that Edelfleda a most vertuous and noble Lady in the yeere after our Saviours Nativity 914. repaired and strongly walled it new about in so much as Matthew of Paris in his lesser Story wrote thus Legecester is a right wealthy City and notably well fenced with an indissoluble Wall which if it had a strong foundation were inferiour to no City whatsoever About the Normans entring into this Land it was well peopled and frequented yea and had very many Burgesses in it out of whom they were bound by an ancient custome as we reade in William the Conquerours booke To send twelve with the King so often as he ●ent in person to the warres But if hee made a voyage by sea against his enemies they sent foure horses to carry armour as farre as to London This City paid yeerely to the King 30. pounds by tale and twenty in ora that is by weight also 25. measures called Sextaries of hony But in the time of King Henry the Seconds Raigne it was sore overpressed with a world of great and grievous calamities and the wals throwne downe what time as Robert sirnamed Bossu that is Crouch backe Earle of Leicester conspired and rebelled against the King Which Matthew of Paris sheweth in these words For the obstinate stubbornesse of Earle Robert spurning against the King the noble City of Leicester was besieged and overthrowne by King Henry and the Wall which seemed indissoluble was utterly cast downe all round about For that I may adde thus much out of the lesser History abovesaid when the Wall of the City wanting a good foundation was undermined and the props that sustained it at length burnt the peeces and fragments of the Wall fell downe which even to this day such is the indissoluble tenacity and stifnesse of the morter remaine fast and retaine the bignesse of sound rockes Miserable also was the imposition of a fine upon the Citizens at that time and their banishment as lamentable who having obtained by paying summes of money licence to depart tooke Sanctuary for extreame feare in Saint Albans and Saint Edmundsbury The Castle likewise was dismantled of all Fortifications which verily was a large and strong peece Beneath which there is a very faire Hospitall or house for receit of poore people and a Collegiat Church wherein Henry Earle of Lancaster and Henry of Lancaster his sonne who was the first Duke of Lancaster lie buried For the said Duke when he was now stepped farre in yeeres of a pious minde built this Hospitall for the maintenance of poore folke and to that end dedicated it Concerning which Henry Knighton of Leicester who lived in that age writeth thus in his story Henry the first Duke of Lancaster built a Collegiat Church and an Hospitall without the South Gate of Leicester wherein hee ordained a Deane with 12. Canons Prebendaries as many Vicars and other Officers an hundred poore and feeble people and ten poore able women to give attendance upon the said feeble folke and this Hospitall hee endowed with sufficient revenewes As for this Hospitall it continueth in some good state as an other Bede-house in the Towne built by W. Wigeston But the Collegiat Church which was a magnificent worke and the greatest ornament of Leicester was demolished when religious houses were granted to the King At the other side of the City among most goodly and pleasant medowes which the River Soar watereth there was an Abbay called of that place De Pree of which the said Knighton hath written thus Robert de Bossu Earle of Leicester when he begun Gerondon Abbay for Cistertians founded the Monastery of S. Mary De Pratis at Leicester endowed it richly with Lands Possessions and Revenewes and himselfe with the consent of Amice his Wife became a Chanon Regular in the same and for the space of fifteene yeeres in habite of a Chanon served God there and so slept in the Lord That thus forsooth he might make amends by repentance in a Chanons weed of that offence which beforetime hee had committed by rebelling with a traiterous minde against his Liege Prince What name Leicester had in the Romans time it is not knowne In the Catalogue of Ninnius I thinke it to bee that which is called Caer Lerion But that Leir a King of whom there goe many tales built it they that will may beleeve it for mee But the situation thereof upon the Foss-way and the distance both from BENNONES and VEROMETUM agreeth so just with the description of Antonine that I cannot but thinke it to be that RATAE which Ptolomee nameth RAGAE although there is neither tippe nor toe remaining in it of the name RATAE unlesse peradventure it be in that old long Ditch and Rampire which they call Rawdikes scarce halfe a mile without the South Gate Heere am I at a stand and looke about me what way to follow for the seeking out of ancient Townes Ranulph a Monke of Chester recordeth that the ancient street way went through the wasts from hence to Lincolne but hee telleth us not through what Wasts The common voice goeth that it went on still full North through Nottingham-shire Antonine the Emperour if I have any insight at all seemeth to insinuate that it passed North-Eastward through this County into Lincoln-shire And verily this way there are places of antique memory that by some of their remaines and tokens shew themselves but the other way I could not my selfe ever yet meete with any what others have done I know not and would willingly learne North-West from Leicester and not farre off is Grooby a large Lordship and Manor which from Hugh Grantmaismill whom King William the Conquerour had enriched with great possessions and revenewes came by the Earles of Leicester and the Quincies unto the house of the Ferrers out of which the Lord Ferrers of Grooby flourished a long time in the honorable state of Barons and in the end Isabel the only daughter remaining of the right line brought it by her marriage into the name of the Greies from whence it fell againe at the last by Attainder into the Kings hands But whiles I was revising of this Worke our Soveraigne Lord King James restored Sir Henry Grey a worthy Knight to the ancient honour of his noble Progenitors creating him Baron Grey of Grooby in the first yeare of his Raigne Now let us returne to the River Soar which being past Leicester first giveth name to Montsorell or rather Mont-Soar-hill a name compounded of Norman and English both which now is famous onely for a Mercate there kept but in old time most renowned for the Castle seated upon a steepe and craggy Hill hanging over the River which before time belonged to the Earles of Leicester but afterwards to Saer de Quincy Earle of Winchester in the Barons warre at this day nothing
Saint Peter and be yeelded up without delay for ever unto the Abbot and to the Monkes there serving God yet King William the Conquerour cancelled and made voide this Testament who reserving a great part of it to himselfe divided the rest betweene Countesse Iudith whose daughter was married to David King of Scots Robert Mallet Oger Gislebert of Gaunt Earle Hugh Aubrey the Clerk and others And unto Westminster first he left the Tithes afterwards the Church onely of Okeham and parcels thereunto appertaining This County hath not had many Earles The first Earle of Rutland was Edward the first begotten Sonne of Edmund of Langley Duke of Yorke created by King Richard the Second upon a singular favour that he cast unto him during his Fathers life and afterwards by the same King advanced to the honour of Duke of Aumarle This young man wickedly projected with others a practise to make away King Henry the Fourth and streight waies with like levity discovered the same But after his Fathers death being Duke of Yorke lost his life fighting couragiously amid the thickest troupes of his enemies in the battaile of Agincourt Long time after there succeeded in this Honour Edward the little young Sonne of Richard Duke of Yorke and he together with his Father during those deadly broiles of civill warre was slaine in the battaile fought at Wakefield Many yeeres after King Henry the Eighth raised up Sir Thomas Mannours to be Earle of Rutland who in right of his Grand-mother Aeleonor was possessed of a goodly and faire inheritance of the Barons Roos lying in the countries round about and elsewhere In his roome succeeded his Sonne Henry and after him likewise Edward his Sonne unto whom if I should say nothing else that commendation of the Poet was most aptly and truly appliable Nomen virtutibus aequat Nec sinit ingenium nobilitate premi His name so great with vertues good he matcheth equally Nor suffreth wit smuthring to lie under Nobility But he by over hasty and untimely death being received into Heaven left this dignity unto John his Brother who also departing this life within a while hath for his successor Roger his Sonne answerable in all points to his ancient and right noble parentage This small Shire hath Parish Churches 48. LINCOLNIAE Comitatus vbi olim insederunt CORITANI LINCOLNE-SHIRE VPon Rutland on the East side confineth the County of LINCOLNE called by the English-Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and by the Normans Nicol-shire after their comming into the Land with some transposition of letters but usually LINCOLNE-SHIRE A very large Country as reaching almost threescore miles in length and carrying in some places above thirty miles in bredth passing kinde for yeeld of Corne and feeding of Cattaile well furnished and set out with a great number of Townes and watered with many Rivers Upon the Eastside where it bendeth outward with a brow fetching a great compasse the German Ocean beateth on the shore Northward it recheth to Humber an arme of the sea on the West side it butteth upon Nottingham-shire and on the South it is severed from Northampton-shire by the River Welland This whole Shire is divided into three parts whereof one is called Holland a second Kesteven and the third Lindsey Holland which Ingulph termeth Holland lyeth to the sea and like unto that Holland in Germanie it is so throughly wet in most places with waters that a mans foote is ready to sinke into it and as one standeth upon it the ground will shake and quake under his feet and thence it may seeme to have taken the name unlesse a man would with Ingulph say that Holland is the right name and the same imposed upon it of Hay which our Progenitours broadly called Hoy. This part throughout beareth upon that ebbing and flowing arme of the Sea which Ptolomee calleth METARIS instead of Maltraith and wee at this day The Washes A very large arme this is and passing well knowne at every tide and high sea covered all over with water but when the sea ebbeth and the tide is past a man may passe over it as on dry land but yet not without danger Which King John learned with his losse For whilest he journied this way when he warred upon the rebellious Barons the waters suddenly brake in upon him so that at Fosse-dyke and Welstream he lost all his carriage and princely furniture as Matthew of Westminster writeth This Country which the Ocean hath laied to the land as the Inhabitants beleeve by sands heaped and cast together they it terme Silt is assailed on the one side with the said Ocean sea and in the other with a mighty confluence of waters from out of the higher countries in such sort that all the Winter quarter the people of the country are faine to keepe watch and ward continually and hardly with all the bankes and dammes that they make against the waters are able to defend themselves from the great violence and outrage thereof The ground bringeth forth but small store of corne but plenty of grasse and is replenished abundantly with fish and water-fowle The Soile throughout is so soft that they use their Horses unshod neither shall you meet so much as with a little stone there that hath not beene brought thither from other places neverthelesse there bee most beautifull Churches standing there built of foure square stone Certaine it is that the sea aforetime had entred farther up into the Country and that appeareth by those bankes formerly raised against the waterwaves then in-rushing which are now two miles off from the shore as also by the hils neere Sutterton which they call Salt-Hils But of fresh water there is exceeding great want in all places neither have they any at all but raine water and that in pits which if they be of any great depth presently become brackish if shallow they dry up as soone Neither are there Quicksands wanting which have a wonderfull force to draw to them and to hold fast as both Shepheards and their poore Sheepe also finde other whiles not without danger This Holland or Hoiland whether you will is divided into two parts The Lower and the Higher The Lower hath in it soule and slabby quavemires yea and most troublesome Fennes which the very Inhabitants themselves for all their stilts cannot stalke through And considering that it lieth very low and flat fenced it is of the one side against the Ocean on the other from those waters which overwhelme the upper part of the Isle of Ely with mighty piles and huge bankes opposed against the same Of which Southybanke is of greatest name which least it should have a breach made through it with that infinite masse of water that falleth from the South part when the Rivers swell and all is overflowne by inundation the people watch with great care and much feare as against a dangerous enemy And yet for the draining away of this water the neighbour Inhabitants at the common charges
of the country beganne to make a new chanell at Clowcrosse in the yeere 1599. Neere unto this banke aforesaid we saw Crowland which also is called Croyland a Towne of good note among the Fenne-people the name whereof soundeth as Ingulph the Abbat of this place interpreteth it as much as A raw and muddy Land A place as they write much haunted in times past with I wot not what sprites and fearefull apparitions before that Guthlake a right holy and devout man led there an Eremits life In whose memoriall Aethelbald King of the Mercians founded to the honour of God at his great charges in the yeere of our Salvation 716. an Abbay very famous both for opinion of the religious life of the Monkes and also for their wealth Concerning which take heere if you please these Verses of Foelix a Monke of good antiquity out of the life of Guthlake Nunc exercet ibi se munificentia Regis Et magnum templum magno molimine condit At cum tam mollis tam lubrica tam malè constans Fundamenta palus non ferret saxea palos Praecipit infigi quercino robore caesos Leucarúmque novem spacio rate fertur arena Inque solum mutatur humus suffultáque tali Cella basi multo stat consummata labore His bounty now the King doth there bestow An Abbay faire with much expense to reare But seeing that the waterish Fenne below Those ground-workes laid with stone uneath could beare So quaving soft and moist the Bases were He caused piles made of good heart of oke Pitch't downe to be with maine commanders stroke Then nine leagues off men sand in Barges brought Which once fast ramm'd by painfull workmans hand Of rotten earth good solid ground was wrought On which for aye such workes might firmely stand And thus by this devise of new plantation The Church stands firme and hath a sure foundation If I should exemplifie unto you out of that Monke the Devils of Crowland with their blabber lips fire-spitting mouthes rough and skaly visages beetle heads terrible teeth sharpe chins hoarse throats blacke skinnes crump-shoulders side and gor-bellies burning loines crooked and hawm'd legges long tailed buttockes and ugly mishapes which heeretofore walked and wandered up and downe in these places and very much troubled holy Guthlake and the Monkes you would laugh full merily and I might bee thought a simple sily-one full worthily Howbeit in regard of the admirable situation of this place so farre different from all others in England and considering the Abbay was so famous I am well content to dwell a while in the description of these particulars Amid most deepe Fennes and standing waters in a muddy and miry ground this Crowland lyeth so shut up and divided round about from all entrance that there is no accesse to it unlesse it bee on the North and East side and that by narrow Cawsies Seated it is for all the world if I may resemble great and small things together like unto Venice Three streets it hath and those severed one from another by water courses betweene planted thicke with willowes and raised upon piles or postes pitched and driven downe deepe into the standing waters having over them a triangle Bridge of admirable workmanship under which for to receive the fall of the waters meeting in one confluence the Inhabitants report there was a pit sunke of a mighty depth Now whereas beyond the Bridge in solum mutatur humus as that Monke said that is The mould is chaunged and is become firme and solid ground there stood in times past that famous Abbay and the same verily taking up but a small plot of ground about which all save where the Towne standeth is so rotten and moorish that a man may thrust a pole downe right thirty foote deepe and round about it every way is nothing but a plot of reeds and next unto the Church a place planted with Alders Howbeit the Towne is well enough peopled with Inhabitants who have their Cattaile a great way from the Towne and when they are to milke them they goe in little punts or boats that will carry but two a peece which they call Skerries yet the most gainfull trade they have is by taking fish and catching of water-foule and that is so great that in the moneth of August they will spread a net and at once draw three thousand Mallards and wilde Duckes and such like together and these pooles or watery plots of theirs they use to terme their Corne fields for they see no Corne growing in five miles any way In regard of this their taking of fish and fowle they paid yeerely in times past to the Abbat as now they doe to the King three hundred pounds of our money The private History of this Abbay I list not to relate seeing it is commonly extant and to be seene out of Ingulph now printed and published yet my minde serves me well briefely to record that which Peter of Bloys Vice-chancellour to King Henry the Second reported at large as touching the new building of this Abbay in the yeere of our Redemption 1112. to the end that by this one president wee may learne by what meanes and helpes so mighty so huge and so faire religious houses were raised and built up in those times Ioffrid the Abbat obtained of the Archbishops and Bishops in England An Indulgence for the third part of penance enjoyned for sinnes committed unto every one that helped forward so holy a worke With this Indulgence he sent out Monkes every way and all about to gather money wherewith when hee was now sufficiently furnished to the end that hee might have an happy beginning of this worke from some happy names of lucky presage hee solemnely appointed the day of Saint Perpetua and of Saint Felicity on which he would lay the first foundation At which day there came flocking in great numbers the Nobles the Prelates and Commons of all the Country thereabout After the celebration of Divine Service and Anthems sung in parts Abbat Ioffrid himselfe layed the first Corner stone Eastward then the Noble men and great persons every one in their degree couched their stones and upon the said stones some laid money others their sealed Deeds of lands Advousons of Churches of Tenths of their Sheepe and of the Tithes of their Churches of certaine measures of wheat and of a certaine number of Workemen as Masons and Quarriers whom they would pay The common sort again and towneships for their parts offered with chearefull devotion some money others one daies labour every moneth untill the worke were finished some the building of whole Pillars others of the bases to the said Pillars and others again to make certaine parts of the wals striving a vie who should doe most This done the Abbat after hee had in a solemne speech commended their devout bounty to so holy a worke granted unto every one of them the fraternity of his Abbay and the participation besides of all
place at this day is called Buxton well which being found by experience holsome for the stomach sinewes and the whole body George Earle of Shrewesbury lately beautified with buildings and so they are begunne againe to bee resorted unto by concourse of the greatest Gentlemen and of the Nobility At which time that most unfortunate Lady Mary Queene of Scots bad farewell unto Buxton with this Distichon by a little change of Caesars Verses concerning Feltria in this wise Buxtona a quae calidae celebrabere nomine lymphae Fortè mihi posthac non adeunda vale Buxton that of great name shalt be for hote and holsome baine Farewell for I perhaps shall not thee ever see againe But that these hote waters were knowne in old time The Port-way or High paved Street named Bath-gate reaching for seven miles together from hence unto Burgh a little Village doth manifestly shew Neere unto this Burgh there standeth upon the top of an hill an old Castle sometimes belonging to the Peverels called The Castle in the Peake and in Latin De Alto Pecco which King Edward the Third together with a Manour and an Honour gave unto his sonne John Duke of Lancaster what time as hee surrendered the Earledome of Richmond into the Kings hands Under which there is a Cave or hole within the ground called saving your reverence The Devils Arse that gapeth with a wide mouth and hath in it many turnings and retyring roomes wherein forsooth Gervase of Tilbury whether for wane of knowing trueth or upon a delight hee had in fabling hath written that a Shepheard saw a very wide and large Country with Riverets and Brookes running heere and there through it and huge Pooles of dead and standing waters Notwithstanding by reason of these and such like fables this Hole is reckoned for one of the wonders of England neither are there wanting the like tales of another Cave but especially of that which is called Elden Hole wherein there is nothing to bee wondred at but that it is of an huge widnesse exceeding steepe and of a mervailous depth But whosoever have written that there should bee certaine tunnels and breathing holes out of which windes doe issue they are much deceived Neither doe these Verses of Alexander Necham which hee wrote as touching the Mervailes of England agree to any of these two holes Est specus Aeolijs ventis obnoxia semper Impetus è gemino maximus ore venit Cogitur injectum velamen adire supernas Partes descensum impedit aura potens A Cave to strong Aeolian windes alwaies enthral'd there is From two-fold tunnell maine great blasts arise and never misse A cloth or garment cast therein by force aloft is sent A mighty breath or powrfull puffe doth hinder all descent But all the memorable matters in this high and rough stony little Country one hath comprised in these foure Verses Mira alto Pecco tria sunt barathrum specus antrum Commoda tot plumbum gramen ovile pecus Tot speciosa simul sunt Castrum Balnea Chatsworth Plura sed occurrunt quae speciosa minùs There are in High Peake Wonders three A deepe Hole Cave and Den Commodities as many bee Lead Grasse and Sheepe in pen. And Beauties three there are withall A Castle Bath Chatsworth With places more yet meet you shall That are of meaner worth To these Wonders may be added a wonderfull Well in the Peake Forest not farre from Buxtons which ordinarily ebbeth and floweth foure times in the space of one houre or thereabout keeping his just Tides and I know not whether Tideswell a Mercate Towne heereby hath his name thereof The Peverels who I have said before were Lords of Nottingham are also reported to have beene Lords of Darby Afterward King Richard the First gave and confirmed unto his brother John the Counties and Castles of Nottingham Lancaster Darby c. with the honours thereto belonging with the honour also of Peverell After him these were Earles of Derby out of the family of Ferrars so far as I am able to gather out of the Registers of Tutbury Merivall and Burton Monasteries William Ferrars sonne to the Daughter and heire of Peverell whom King John with his owne hand as we finde in an ancient Charter invested Earle of Darby William his sonne who bruised with a fall out of his Coach died in the yeere 1254. And this Williams sonne Robert who in the Civill Warre lost this Title and a great estate by forfeiture in such sort as that none of his posterity although they lived in great port and reputation were ever restored to that honor againe But most of this Roberts possessions K. Henry the Third passed over unto Edmund his owne younger son and King Edward the Third I write out of the very originall Record by authority and advise of the Parliament ordained Henry of Lancaster the sonne of Henry Earle of Lancaster Earle of Darby to him and his heires and withall assigned unto him a thousand markes yeerely during the life of his father Henry Earle of Lancaster From that time this Title was united to the line of Lancaster untill King Henry the Seventh bestowed the same upon Thomas Lord Stanley who before had wedded Margaret the Kings mother to him and the heires males of his body He had for his successour his Grandsonne Thomas begotten by George his sonne of Ioan the heire of the Lord Strange of Knocking this Thomas had by the sister of George Earle of Huntingdon Edward the third Earle of this Family highly commended for hospitality and affability who by the Lady Dorothy Daughter to the first Thomas Howard Duke of Norfolke begat Henry the fourth Earle efts-once honourably employed who left by Lady Margaret Daughter of Henry Earle of Cumberland Ferdinand and William successively Earles of Darby Ferdinand dyed in strange manner in the flower of his youth leaving by Margaret his Wife Daughter of Sir John Spenser of Althorp three Daughters Anne marryed to Grey Bruges Lord Chandos Francis Wife to Sir Iohn Egerton and Elizabeth Wife to Henry Earle of Huntingdon William the sixth Earle now enjoyeth that Honour having issue by Elizabeth Daughter to Edward late Earle of Oxford ANd thus much of the Counties of Nottingham and Darby of which they inhabited a part who in Bedes time were called Mercij Aquilonares that is The Northern Mercians for that they dwelt beyond the Trent Northward and they held as hee saith The land of seven thousand Families This County holdeth in it Parishes 106. CORNAVII HAving now travailed in order through the Countries of the ancient CORITANI I am to survey the Regions confining which in ancient time the people called CORNABII or CORNAVII inhabited The derivation or Etymologie of whose name let others sift out As for my selfe I could draw the force and signification of that word to this and that diversly but seeing none of them doth aptly answere to the nature of the place or disposition of the people
married to Edward Conway brother to Sir Hugh Conway of Wales a gracious favourite of King Henry the Seventh the knightly Family of the Conwaies have ever since flourished and laudably followed the profession of Armes But East from the river and higher among the Woods which now begin to grow thin stand these townes under named Wroxhall where Hugh de Hatton founded a little Priory Badesley belonging in times past to the Clintons now to the Ferrars Also Balshall sometimes a Commandery of the Templars which Roger de Mowbray gave unto them whose liberality to the order of Templars was so great that by a common consent in their Chapiter they made a decree that himselfe might remit and pardon any of the brotherhood whomsoever in case hee had trespassed against the statutes and ordinances of that Order and did withall before him acknowledge the crime yea and the Knights of the Order of Saint Iohn of Ierusalem unto whom the Templars possessions in England were assigned over for our Ancestours in those daies held it a deadly sinne to prophane things consecrated to God granted in token of thankfulnesse unto Iohn Mowbray of Axholme the successour of the foresaid Roger that himselfe and his successours in every of their Covents and assemblies should be received and entertained alwaies in the second place next unto the King More North-east where wilde Brookes meeting together make a broad poole among the Parkes and so soone as they are kept in with bankes runne in a Chanell is seated Kenelworth in times past commonly called Kenelworde but corruptly Killingworth and of it taketh name a most ample beautifull and strong Castle encompassed all about with Parkes which neither Kenulph nor Kenelm ne yet Keneglise built as some doe dreame but Geffrey Clinton Chamberlaine unto King Henry the First and his sonne with him as may be shewed by good evidences when he had founded there before a Church for Chanons Regular But Henry his Nephew in the second degree having no issue sold it unto King Henry the Third who gave it in franke marriage to Simon Montfort Earle of Leicester together with his sister Aeleonor And soone after when enmity was kindled betweene the King and Earle Simon and hee slaine in the bloody warres which he had raised upon faire pretexts against his Soveraigne it endured six moneths fiege and in the end was surrendred up to the king aforesaid who annexed this Castle as an inheritance to Edmund his sonne Earle of Lancaster At which time there went out and was proclaimed from hence an Edict which our Lawyers use to call Dictum de Kenelworth whereby it was enacted That whosoever had tooke Armes against the King should pay every one of them five yeeres rent of their lands c. A severe yet a good and wholsome course without effusion of bloud against rebellious subjects who compassing the destruction of the State built all their hopes upon nothing else but dissentions But this Castle through the bountifull munificence of Queene Elizabeth was given and granted to Robert Dudleie Earle of Leicester who to repaire and adorne it spared for no coste in so much as if a man consider either the gallant building or the large Parkes it would scorne as it were to be ranged in a third place amongst the Castles in England Next after this to keepe on the journey that my selfe made I saw Solyhill but in it setting aside the Church there is nothing worth sight Then Bremicham full of Inhabitants and resounding with hammers and anvils for the most of them are Smiths The lower part thereof standeth very waterish the upper riseth with faire buildings for the credite and praise whereof I may not reckon this in the last place that the Noble and martiall Family of the Bremichams Earles of Louth c. in Ireland fetched their originall and name from hence Then in the utmost skirt of this Shire North-westward Sutton Colfield standing in a woody and on a churlish hard Soile glorieth of John Voisy Bishop of Excester there borne and bred who in the Raigne of king Henry the Eighth when this little Towne had lien a great while as dead raised it up againe with buildings priviledges and a Grammar Schoole As I went downe from hence Southward I came to Coleshull a Towne sometime of the Clintons and to Maxstocke Castle neighbouring to it which acknowledged by a continuall line of hereditary succession for his Lords the Limseies who were also Lords of Wolverley the Odingsells that came out of Flanders and the Clitons men of greatest worth and worship in their times Lower yet in the mids of this Woodland standeth Coventrey so called as we take it of a Covent of Monkes considering that we terme in our tongue such a brotherhood a Covent and Coven and it is oftentimes in our Histories and Pontificall Decrees named Coventria as for example in this one passage Vel non est compos sui Episcopus Conventrensis vel nimis videtur à se scientiam repulisse Yet there be that would have this name to be taken from that little Brooke that runneth within the City at this day called Shirburn and in an ancient Charter of the Priory is written Cuentford Well whence so ever it was so called in the foregoing age growing wealthy by clothing and making of Caps it was the onely Mart and City of trade in all these parts frequented also and peopled more than ordinarily a midland place as being a City very commodiously seated large sweet and neat fortified with strong Walles and set out with right goodly houses among which there rise up on high two Churches of rare workmanship standing one hard by the other and matched as it were as concurrents the one consecrated to the Holy Trinity the other to Saint Michael Yet hath it nothing within it that one would say is of great antiquity And the most ancient monument of all as it may seeme was the Monastery or Priory the ruines whereof I saw neere unto those Churches which Priory king Canutus founded first for religious Nunnes who when they were within a while after throwne out in the yeere 1043 Leofricke Earle of the Mercians enlarged and in manner built anew with so great a shew and bravery of gold and silver these be the very words of William Malmesbury that the wals seemed too narrow for to receive the treasure of the Church and the coste bestowed there was wonderfull to as many as beheld it for out of one beame were scraped 50. Markes of silver And he endowed it with so great livings that Robert de Limseie Bishop of Lichfield and Chester translated his See hither as it were to the golden sand of Lydia to the end for so writeth the said Malmesbury that out of the very treasure of the Church hee might by stealth convey wherewith to fill the Kings hand wherewith to avoid the Popes businesse and wherewith to satisfie the greedinesse of the
and separateth it from Darby-shire holding on his course in a Cleyish channell without any beds or shelves of mud through a soile consisting of the said Lime-stone from whence it sucketh out such fertilitie that in the very middest of Winter the Medowes on both the bankes sides carry a most pleasant and fresh greene hew but if it chance to swell above the bankes and overflow the Medowes in Aprill it battelleth them like another Nilus and maketh them so fruitfull that the inhabitants use commonly to chant this joyfull note In Aprill Doves flood Is worth a Kings good This river in twelve houres space useth so to rise that it harieth and carrieth away with it sheepe and other cattaile to the great terror of the people dwelling thereby but within the same time againe it falleth and returnes within his owne bankes whereas Trent being once up and over his bankes floweth upon the fields foure or five daies together but now come we to the rivers that run into it The first is Hans which being swallowed up under the ground breaketh up againe three miles off Then admitteth he the fellowship of the river Churnet who passeth by De-la-Cres Abbay built by Ranulph the third of that name Earle of Chester by Leike also a well knowne Mercat towne and by Aulton a Castle in times past belonging to the Barons Verdon who founded heere the Abbay of Croxden from whom by the Furnivals it descended to the Talbots Earles of Shrewsbury A little below runneth Teyn a small brooke into Dove which having his head not far from Cheddle the ancient seat of the Bassets who derive their pedegree from the Bassets of Draiton creepeth on in such a winding and crooked chanell that within one mile I was faine to passe over it foure times Neere unto it in Checkley Church-yard there stand three stones upright erected in maner of a Pyramides two of them have little images engraven upon them but that in the middest is highest The inhabitants report by tradition that a battaile was fought there betweene two hosts of which the one was armed the other unarmed and that in it were three Bishops slaine in memoriall of whom these stones were set up But what Historicall truth indeed lieth heerein enfolded I know not as yet As for Blith it hath in this Moreland Careswell a Castler situate upon it which Sir William Careswell built with great ponds having their heads made of square stones and Draicot which gave surname to a family of great antiquity in this County But Dove after it hath received Tine having a faire bridge made over it of most hard stone and defended with piles runneth under Vtcester in ' the Saxons tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and Vttoxather situate upon the side of an hill with a gentle ascent a towne more rich in gay flowring medowes and in cattaile than faire built which before I saw it the name was so favourable to my conjecture I thought in vaine to have been the ancient ETOCETUM But now time hath taught me more certeinty After this when Dove is now come neerer unto Trent it visiteth Tutbury Castle in times past a large and stately thing which also is called Stutesbury and from an Alabaster hill top on which it stands threatneth as it were the whole country underneath It was built together with a little Monastery by Henry de Ferrars a Noble man of Normandy unto whom King William the First had given great lands and revenewes in this shire all which Robert de Ferrars Earle of Darby lost after he had revolted a second time from King Henry the Third For this Robert when after many troubles which he had raised in the Barons war hee was received into the Kings favour and had bound himselfe with a corporall oth in expresse and formall words that he would continue ever after loyall to his liege Lord yet was the man of such a stirring and restlesse spirit that to break and knap in peeces quite that fortune which he could not bend he put on armes against his Soveraigne and being at length taken prisoner that I may use the very words of the Record according to the forme of his obligation made this great forfeiture both of his fortunes and dignities There is in some place of this shire a lake if Alexander Necham deceive us not into which no wilde beast will in any wise enter but since the place is uncertaine and the thing it selfe more uncertaine I will onely put downe underneath these his verses before which he prefixed this Title De Lacu in Staffordia Rugitu Lacus est eventus praeco futuri Cujus aquis fera se credere nulla solet Instet odora canum virtus mors instet acerba Non tamen intrabit exagitata lacum Of a Lake in Stafford-shire A Lake there is that roreth loud whereby things are fore-showne The water whereof once to take wild beasts were never knowne Let hounds let death pursue apace them for to overtake For all this chase and hot pursuite none enter will the Lake Of another Poole or Lake also in this Country thus writeth Gervase of Tilbury in his Otia Imperialia unto Otho the fourth In the Bishopricke of Coventry and County of Stafford at the foot of an hill which the inborne people of the Country have named Mahull there is a water spread abroad in maner of a Meere in the territory of a Village which they tearme Magdalea In this Meere or Marsh there is a most cleere water and an infinite number of woods beside joyning one unto another which hath such an effectuall vertue in refreshing of bodies that so often as Hunters have chased Stagges and other Deere untill their Horses be tired if in the greatest heate of the scorching Sunne they taste of this water and offer it unto their Horses for to drinke they recover their strength of running againe which they had lost and become so fresh as one would thinke they had not run at all But whereabout this is I cannot yet learne by all my diligent inquiry As for the title of Stafford it remaineth ever since Robert de Stafford whom King William of Normandy enriched with great possessions even untill our time in his line and progeny A family as noble and ancient as any other but upon which fortune hath otherwhiles by turnes both frowned and fawned For first they were Barons of Stafford then five of them Earles of Stafford Ralfe created by King Edward the Third Earle of Stafford who married the heire of Sir Hugh Audley Earle of Glocester Hugh his sonne who died in Pilgrimage at Rhodes and his three sonnes successively Thomas and William both issuelesse and Edmund who married the daughter and heire of Thomas of Woodstock Duke of Buckingham Afterward three of them were Dukes of Buckingham and Earles of Stafford c. as is before shewed By the attainder of the last of them those so great inheritances
now spoiling and harrying the whole Island and Vortigern had withdrawne himselfe into these parts Pascentius his sonne ruled all as Lord by the permission of Aurelius Ambrose as Ninnius writeth who in his Chapter of Mervails reporteth I wot not what wondrous thing heere of a heape of stones wherein forsooth was plainly to be seene the footing of King Arthurs hound And as for Hay which in British is called Trekethle that is The Towne in a grove of Hasell trees in the very utmost skirt of this Shire next unto Hereford-shire it standeth hard by the river Wye well knowne as it seemeth to the Romans whose coines is often digged up there and it sheweth also by the ruines that in old time it was walled But being now as it were decaied it complaineth of that most lewde Rebell Owen Glendowerdwy for his furious outrages who in wasting and spoiling all those Countries most villanously did depopulate it and set it on fire As this River Wy washeth the North side of this Shire so doth Vske a notable River likewise runne through the middest thereof which Vske springing out of the Blacke-Mountaine passeth along with a shallow streame beside Brechnock the Shire Towne standing in the very heart in manner of the Country which the Britans call Aber-Hodney because the two Rivers Hodney and Uske doe meet in that place That this Towne was inhabited in the Romans time appeareth by the Coines of Roman Emperours now and then digged up heere Bernard Newmarch who conquered this little Shire built heere a goodly great Castle which the Breoses and Bohuns repaired and in our fathers remembrance King Henry the Eighth in the Friery of the Dominicans appointed a Collegiat Church of foureteene Prebendaries which hee translated hither from Aberguilly in Caer-Marden-shire Two miles hence Eastward there spreads it selfe abroad a large Poole which the Britans call Linsavethan and Linsavathen that is A Lake of standing water Giraldus tearmeth it Clamosum that is Clamorous or Crying loud because it maketh a strange noise like thunder as often as the Yce thereon doth thaw In English we name it Brecknock-Meere Two miles it is in length and as much in bredth breeding in times past many Otters now full of Pearches Tenches and Eeles which the Fishers rowing in small pliant botes doe take Leveney a little River after it is runne into this Poole keepeth his owne hew and color still by himselfe as disdaining to be mingled therewith which the very color sheweth is thought to carry out his owne water entertained a while there by the way and no more than hee brought in with him It hath beene a currant speech of long continuance among the neighbours thereabout that where now the Meere is there was in times past a City which being swallowed up in an earthquake resigned up the place unto the waters And beside other reasons they alleage this for one that all the high waies of this shire come directly hither on every side Which if it be true what other City should a man thinke stood by the River Leveney than LOVENTIUM which Ptolomee placeth in this tract and in no place hitherto could I finde it albeit I searched diligently for it either by the name or situation or ruines remaining Marianus Scotus which I had almost forgotten seemeth to call this Lake Bricena● Meere who recordeth that Edelfled the Mercian Lady in the yeere 913. entred into the land of the Britans to win by assault a Castle at Bricenau Meere and that she tooke there the King of the Britans wife prisoner Whether this Castle were Brechnock it selfe or Castle Dinas which standeth over it upon a rockey hill and which the higher it riseth the slenderer and smaller it becommeth it is not certainely knowne But that Blean Laveney Castle hard by was the chiefe place of the Barony that Petre Fitz Herbert the sonne of Herbert Lord of Dean-forest by Lucy the daughter of Miles Earle of Hereford held appeareth evidently upon Record In the Raigne of King William Rufus Bernard Newmarch the Norman a man both hardy and politique withall having levied a great Army of Englishmen and Normans together was the first that entred into this territory by force and armes won it and wrested it out of the Welshmens hands by bloudy encounters raised fortresses heere for his fellow souldiers among which the chiefe were the Aubreeis Gunters Haverds Waldbeofes and Prichards allotted lands and lordships and that hee might set sure footing and establish his seat among the Welsh who repined maliciously at him he tooke to wife Nesta the daughter of Gruffin who being a woman of a shamelesse and revengefull spirit both bereft her selfe of her owne good name and also defeated her sonne of his inheritance For when Mahel the said Bernards onely sonne did shake up in som hard and sharpe termes a young Gentleman with whom she used more familiarly than was beseeming shee as the Poet saith iram atque animos à crimine s●mens growing angry and stomackfull upon this imputation tooke her corporall oath before King Henry the Second and protested that her sonne Mahel was begotten in adultery and not by Bernard her Husband whereupon Mahel being disinherited Sibyl his sister entred upon that faire Inheritance and with the same enriched her Husband Miles Earle of Hereford But after that five sonnes of Miles died without issue this Brechnock-shire in the partition of the inheritance fell to Bertha his daughter who by Philip de Breos had a sonne William de Breos Lord of Brechnock upon whom the seditious spirit and shrewd tongue of his wife drew a world of calamities For when shee had with her intemperate and unbridled language contumeliously abused King John the King thereupon because her Husband William was very deepely indebted unto him fell to bee quicke and rigorous in demanding the debt But he not able to make payment after he had shifted it off many times and by breaking day still made default in the end mortgaged unto the King three of his Castles namely Hay Brecknock and Radnor and put them into his hands But soone after levying certaine forces such as he could muster up in haste upon a suddaine surprised them slew the Garison Souldiers and wrested the said peeces perforce from them burnt the Towne of Lemster and thus killing slaying and driving away booties he made foule worke and havocke every way with all such outrages as Rebels doe commonly commit But when the King pursued him hee conveyed himselfe and all that he had into Ireland complotted and combined with the Kings enemies there yet under a colour as if hee would make submission hee came unto the King upon protection and assurance given of safety when he was upon his returne into Ireland And notwithstanding many goodly promises of the contrary he raised new stirres and troubles eftsoones in Wales But forced in the end to leave his native Country he died a banished man
Towne hath flourished and beene of name in regard of their priviledges and immunities granted unto them by the Family of Lancaster But for no one thing it is so much renowned as for this that it was the birth place of King Henry the Fifth that Triumpher over France and the second ornament of English Nation That Henry I say who by force of armes and military prowesse maugre the French conquered France and brought Charles the Sixth King of France to that extremity that after a sort he surrendred up his Crowne unto him In regard of whose successe and fortunate exploits in Warre John Seward a Poet in those dayes not of the lowest ranke in a joily lofty verse thus speaketh to the English Ite per extremum Tanain pigrósque Triones Ite per arentem Lybiam superate calores Solis arcanos Nili deprendite fontes Herc●leum finem Bacchi transcurrite metas Angli juris erit quicquid complectitur orbis Anglis rubra dabunt pretiosas aequora conchas Indus ebur ramos Panchaia vellera Seres Dum viget Henricus dum noster vivit Achilles Est etenim laudes longè transgressus avitas Passe on to Tanais farre remote to frozen Northren Coast Through Libye dry beyond the line where Sunnes heat parcheth most On forth and finde where all the springs of Nilus hidden lie Those pillers fixt by Hercules and bounds that mount on hie Surpasse the Limit-markes also which father Bacchus pight For why what all the earth containes is under Englands right To English shall the Red Sea yeeld the pretious pearely wilke Indy yvory sweet-frank-incense Panchaea Seres silke Whiles Henry lives that Champion Achilles-like of ours For he the praises farre surmounts of his Progenitours Monmouth glorieth also that Geffrey Ap Arthur or Arthurius Bishop of Asaph the compiler of the British History was borne and bred there a man to say truth well skilled in antiquities but as it seemeth not of antique credite so many toies and tales hee every where enterlaceth out of his owne braine as he was charged while hee lived in so much as now hee is ranged among those Writers whom the Roman Church hath censured to be forbidden From hence Wy with many windings and turnings runneth downe Southward yeelding very great plenty of delicate Salmons from September to April And is at this day the bound betweene Glocester-shire and Monmouth-shire in times past betweene the Welsh and Englishmen according to this Verse of Nechams making Inde vagos vaga Cambrenses hinc respicit Anglos By Wales on this side runneth Wy And of the other England he doth eye Who when he is come almost unto his mouth runneth by Chepstow that is if one interprete it after the Saxons tongue a Mercat The Britans call it Castle-went A famous Towne this is and of good resort situate upon the side of an Hill rising from the very River fortified round about with a Wall of a large circuite which includes within it both fields and orchyards It hath a very spacious Castle situate over the River and just against it stood a Priory the better part whereof being pulled downe the rest is conuerted into a Parish Church As for the Bridge that standeth over Wy it is of timber and very high built because the River at every tide riseth to a great heigth The Lords hereof were the Earles of Pembroch out of the Family of Clare who of Strighull Castle their seat a little way off were commonly called Earles of Strighull and of Pembrock The last of whom named Richard a man of an invincible courage and having wonderfull strong armes and long withall sirnamed Strongbow because hee shot in a bow of exceeding great bent and did nothing but with strong arme was the first that by his valour made way for the English into Ireland By a daughter of his it came to the Bigots c. but now it belongeth to the Earles of Worcester This Towne is not very ancient to speake of For many there bee that constantly affirme and not without good reason that not many ages agoe it had his beginning from VENTA a very ancient City that in the daies of Antonine the Emperor flourished about foure miles hence Westward and was named VENTA SILURUM as one would say the principall City of the Silures Which name neither hostile fury nor length of time hath as yet discontinued for it is called even at this day Caer went that is The City Went. But as for the City it selfe either time or hostility hath so carryed it away that now were it not onely for the ruinate walles the checker worke pavements and peeces of Roman money it would not appeare there was such a City It tooke up in compasse above a mile on the South side a great part of the Wall standeth and there remaine little better than the rubbish of three Bulwarks And yet of how great account it was in ancient times wee may gather if it were but by this that before the name of Monmouth once heard of all this whole Country was of it called Guent Went-set and wents-Wents-land Moreover as wee reade in the life of Tathaius a British Saint it was an Academy that is to say a place dedicated to the study of good letters which the said Tathaie whom King Caradock the sonne of Inirius procured to come thither out of the desert wildernesse governed with great commendation and there founded a Church Five miles from hence Westward is seated Strighull Castle at the foote of the mountaines we call it at this day Strugle the Normans named it Estrighill which as wee reade in King William the First his Domesday booke William Fitz Osborn Earle of Hereford built and afterwards it became the seat of the Earles of Pembrock out of the house of Clare Whereupon they were usually called Earles of Strighull as I even now intimated Beneath these places upon the Severn sea nere unto Wy-mouth standeth Portskeweth which Marianus nameth Potescith who hath recorded that Harald in the yeere 1065. erected a Fort there against the Welshmen which they streightwaies under the conduct of Caradock overthrew And adjoyning to it is Sudbrok the Church wherof called Trinity Chappell standeth so neere the sea that the vicinity of so tyrannous a neighbour hath spoiled it of halfe the Church-yarde as it hath done also of an old Fortification lying thereby which was compassed with a triple Ditch and three Rampiers as high as an ordinary house cast in forme of a bowe the string whereof is the sea-cliffe That this was a Romane worke the Britaine brickes and Romane coines there found are most certaine arguments among which the Reverend Father in God Francis Bishop of Landaffe by whose information I write this imparted unto me of his kindnesse one of the greatest peeces that ever I saw coined of Corinthian copper by the City of Elaia in the lesser Asia to the honour of the Emperour Severus
with this Greeke Inscription 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is THE EMPEROUR CAESAR LUCIUS SEPTIMIUS SEVERUS PERTINAX And in the Reverse an Horseman with a Trophaee erected before him but the letters not legible save under him 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Of the Elaians which kinde of great peeces the Italians call Medaglionj and were extraordinary coines not for common use but coined by the Emperours either to bee distributed by the way of Largesse in triumphes or to bee sent for tokens to men well deserving or else by free Cities to the glory and memory of good Princes What name this place anciently had is hard to be found but it seemeth to have beene the Port and landing place for Venta Silurum when as it is but two miles from it Then Throgoy a little River neere unto Caldecot entereth into the Severn Sea where we saw the wall of a Castle that belonged to the High Constables of England and was holden by the service of Constableship of England Hard by are seene Wondy and Penbow the seates in times past of the noble Family of Saint Maur now corruptly named Seimor For G. Mareshall Earle of Pembrock about the yeere of our Lord 1240. was bound for the winning of Wondy out of the Welsh mens hands to aide William Seimor From him descended Roger de Saint Maur Knight who married one of the heires of I. Beauchamp of Hach a very noble Baron who derived his Pedegree from Sibyl Heire unto William Mareshall that most puissant Earle of Pembrock from William Ferrars Earle of Darby from Hugh de Vivon and William Mallet men in times past most highly renowned The Nobility of all these and of others besides as may be evidently shewed hath met together in that right honourable personage Edward Saint Maur or Seimor now Earle of Hartford a singular favourer of vertue and good learning worthy in that behalfe to be honoured and commended to posterity Beneath this lyeth spred for many miles together a Mersh they call it the Moore which when I lately revised this worke suffered a lamentable losse For when the Severn Sea at a spring Tide in the change of the Moone what being driven backe for three dayes together with a South-West Winde and what with a very strong pirry from the sea troubling it swelled and raged so high that with surging billowes it came rolling and in-rushing amaine upon this Tract lying so low as also upon the like flats in Somerset-shire over against it that it overflowed all subverted houses and drowned a number of beasts and some people withall Where this Mersh Coast bearing out by little and little runneth forth into the sea in the very point thereof standeth Goldclyffe aloft that is as Giralaus saith A Golden Cliffe so called because the stones there of a golden colour by reverberation of the Sunne shining full upon them glitter with a wonderfull brightnesse neither can I bee easily perswaded saith hee that Nature hath given this brightnesse in vaine unto the stones and that there should bee a flower heere without fruite were there any man that would search into the Veines there and using the direction of Art enter in the inmost and secretest bowels of the Earth Neere to this place there remaine the Reliques of a Priory that acknowledge those of Chandos for their founders and Patron Passing thence by the Merish Country we came to the mouth of the River Isca which the Britans name Usk and Wijsk and some Writers terme it Osca This River as it runneth through the middest as I said before of this County floweth hard by three Townes of especiall antiquity The first in the limite of the Shire North-West Antonine the Emperour calleth GOBANIUM at the very meeting of Uske and Geveny whereof it had the name and even at this day keeping the ancient name as it were safe and sound is tearmed Aber-Gevenny and short Aber-genny which signifieth the confluents of Gevenny or Gobanny Fortified it is with Wals and a Castle which as saith Giraldus of all the Castles in Wales hath beene most defamed and stained with the foule note of treason First by William Earle Miles his sonne afterwards by William Breos for both of them after they had trained thither under a pretense of friendship certain of the Nobles and chiefe Gentlemen of Wales with promise of safe conduct villanously slew them But they escaped not the just judgement and vengeance of God For William Breos after he had beene stripped of all his goods and lost his wife and some of his children who were famished to death died in banishment the other William being brained with a stone whiles Breulais Castle was on fire suffered in the end due punishment for his wicked deserts The first Lord to my knowledge of Aber Gevenny was one Sir Hameline Balun who made Brien of Wallingford or Brient de L'isle called also the Fitz-Count his heire He having built heere a Lazarhouse for his two sonnes that were Lepres ordained Walter the sonne of Miles Earle of Hereford heire of the greatest part of his inheritance After him succeeded his brother Henry slaine by the Welshmen who seized upon his lands which the Kings Lieutenants and Captaines could not defend without great perill and danger By a sister of this Henry it descended to the Breoses and from them in right of marriage by the Cantelowes to the Hastings which Hastings being Earles of Pembrock enjoyed it for divers descents and John Hastings having then no childe borne devised both it and the Earledome of Pembrock as much as in him lay to his cosin Sir William Beauchamp conditionally that he should beare his Armes And when the last Hastings ended his life issuelesse Reginald Lord Grey of Ruthin being found his Heire passed over the Barony of Aber-gevenny to the said William Beauchamp who was summoned afterward to Parliament by the name of W. Beauchamp de Abergevenny Hee entailed the said Barony reserving an estate to himselfe and his wife and to the lawfull issue male of their bodies and for default of such issue to his brother Thomas Beauchamp Earle of Warwick and his heires males This William Beauchamp Lord of Abergevenny had a sonne named Richard who for his martiall valour was created Earle of Worcester and slaine in the French warres leaving one onely daughter whom Sir Edward Nevill tooke to wife Since which time the Nevils have enjoyed the honorable title of the Barons of Abergevenny howbeit the Castle was by vertue of the entaile aforesaid detained from them a long time The fourth Baron of this house dying in our remembrance left one onely daughter Mary married to Sir Thomas Fane Knight betwixt whom being the heire generall and Edward Nevill the next heire male unto whom by a will and the same ratified by authority of the Parliament the Castle of Abergevenny and the greatest part
to recover the Holy Land That part of this Country which lyeth beyond the Haven and hath onely these two Rivers to water it the Britans doe call Ros making the name answerable to the thing for that it lyeth for the most part all low on a flat and greene plaine This Tract was inhabited by Flemings out of the Low Countries who by the permission of King Henry the First were planted heere when the Ocean by making breaches in the bankes had overwhelmed a great part of the said Low Countries These are distinctly knowne still from the Welsh both by their speech and manners and so neere joyned they are in society of the same language with Englishmen who come nighest of any Nation to the low Dutch Tongue that this their little Country is tearmed by the Britans Little England beyond Wales A Nation this is as saith Giraldus strong and stout and continually enured in warres with the Welsh a Nation most accustomed to seeke gaine by clothing by traffique also and merchandise by sea and land undertaking any paines and perills whatsoever A Nation of very great power and as time and place requireth ready by turnes to take plough in hand and till the ground as ready also to goe into the field and fight it out And that I may adde thus much moreover a Nation most loyally devoted to the Kings of England and as faithfull to Englishmen and which in the time of Giraldus was wonderfull skilfull in Sooth-saying by the Inspection of Beasts inwards whose worke also is heere seene as they are a people passing industrious namely The Flemish High way reaching out a great length The Welshmen have many a time banded all their Forces in one and to recover this country belonging sometimes unto their ancestors have violently set upon these Flemings and overrunne their lands spoiling and wasting where ever they went yet they most courageously have alwayes from time to time defended their estates their name and life Whereupon concerning them and King William Rufus the Historian Malmesbury writeth thus Many a time and often King William Rufus had but small successe against the Welsh men which any man may well mervaile at considering that alwaies otherwise he spread most fortunately in all adventures of Warre But I take it that as the unevennesse of the ground and sharpnesse of the ayre maintained their Rebellion so the same empeached his valour But King Henry who now Reigneth a man of an excellent wit found meanes to frustrate all their devices by placing Flemings in their Country who might be alwaies ready to represse and keepe them in And in the fifth booke King Henry with many a warlike expedition went about to force the Welsh men who ever and anon rose up in Rebellion for to yeeld and submit themselves and resting in the end upon this good and holsome policie for to take downe and abate their swelling pride he brought over thither all the Flemings that dwelt in England For a number of them who in those daies in regard of his Moth●rs 〈◊〉 by her Fathers side flocked thither were closely shrowded in England in so much 〈◊〉 they for their multitude seemed burdensome unto the Realme Wherefore he sent them altogether with their substance goods Wives and Children unto Ros a Country in Wales as it were ●●to a common avoidance thereby both to purge and clense his owne Kingdome and also to quaile and represse the rash boldnesse of his enemies there By the more westward of these two Rivers is Harford West called by the English men in times past Haversord and by the Britans Hulphord a faire Towne and of great resort situate upon an hill side having scarce one even streete but is steepe one way or other which being a Countie by it selfe hath for Magistrates a Major a Sheriffe and two Bailiffs The report goeth that the Earles of Clare fortified it with Rampier and Wall on the North side and we read that Richard Earle of Clare made R. Fitz-Tancred Castellan of this Castle Beyond Ros there shooteth out with a mighty front farre into the West Ocean a great Promontory which Ptolomee called OCTOPITARUM the Britans Pebidiauc and Cantred Devi we Saint Davids land A stony barren and unfruitfull ground as Giraldus saith Neither clad with Woods nor garnished heere and there with Rivers ne yet adorned with Medows lying alwaies open to windes onely and stormes Yet a retyring place for most holy men and a nurserie of them For Calphurnius a Britaine Priest as some I know not how truly have written heere in the vale of Ros begat of his Wife Concha Sister to Saint Martin of Tours Patricke the Apostle of Ireland and Devi a most religious Bishop translated the Archiepiscopall See from Isca Legionum into the most remote and farthest angle heereof even to Menew or Menevia which afterwards the Britans of his name called Twy Dewy that is Devi his house the Saxons Dauy 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the English men at this day Saint Davids and was for a long time an Archbishops See But by occasion of a pestilence that contagiously raged in this Country whereby the Pall was translated into little Britaine in France to Dole this Archiepiscopall dignity had an end Yet in the foregoing ages the Welsh men commensed an action heere about against the Archbishop of Canterbury Metropolitane of England and Wales but they were cast in the Law What this Saint Davids was and what maner of thing in times past a man can hardly tell considering it hath beene so often by Pirates rased but now it is a very small and poore Citie and hath nothing at all to make shew of but a faire Church dedicated to Saint Andrew and David which having been many times overthrowne Petre the Bishop in the reigne of King John and his successors erected in that forme which now it sheweth in the vale as they tearme it of Ros under the Towne and hard by it standeth the Bishops Pallace and faire houses of the Chaunter who is next unto the Bishop for there is no Deane heere of the Chauncellor Treasurer and foure Archdeacons who be of the number of the XXII Canons all enclosed round within a strong and seemely wall whereupon they call it the Close This Promontorie thrusteth it selfe so farre Westward that in a cleere Sunshine day a man may from thence see Ireland and from hence is the shortest cut to Ireland and by Plinies measure which he tooke false was from the Silures for he thought that the Silures reached thus farre thirty miles But that this land ran out farther and that the forme of the Promontory hath been changed it may be gathered out of these words of Giraldus What time saith he as King Henry the Second made his abode in Ireland by reason of an extraordinary violence of stormes the sandy shores of this coast were laide bare as farre as to the very hard ground and the face of
goeth on forward to Shropp-shire That MEDIOLANUM a Towne of the Ordovices which both Antonine the Emperour and Ptolomee speake of stood in this Shire I am in a manner perswaded upon probability The footings whereof I have sought after with all diligence but little or nothing have I found of it For time consumeth the very carcasses even of Cities Yet if we may ground any conjecture upon the situation seeing the Townes which Antonine placeth on either side be so well knowne to wit BONIUM now Bangor by Dee on the one side and RUTUNIUM now Rowton Castle on the other side for he setteth it twelve Italian miles distant from this and from the other twenty The lines of Position if I may so tearme them or of the distance rather doe cut one another crosse betweene Matrafall and Lan-vethlin which are scarce three miles asunder and shew as it were demonstratively the site of our Mediolanum For this cannot chuse but bee an infallible way to finde out the situation of a third place by two others that are knowne when as there are neither hils interposed nor any troublous turnings of the wayes As for this Matrafall which standeth five miles Westward from Severn although it bee now but a bare name was sometime the regall seat of the Princes of Powis which may bee an argument of the antiquity thereof and the same much spoken of by Writers who record that after the Princes had once forsaken it Robert Vipont an Englishman built a Castle But Lan-vethlin that is Vethlius Church being a little Mercate Towne although it be somewhat farther off from the crosse-meeting of the said lines yet commeth it farre neerer in resemblance of name to Mediolanum For of Methlin by the propriety of the British tongue is made Vethlin like as of Caer-Merden is come Caer Verden and of Ar-mon Arvon Neither doth Methlin more jarre and disagree in sound from Mediolanum than either Millano in Italie Le Million in Xantoigne or Methlen in the Lowcountries which Cities no man doubteth were all in times past knowne by the name of Mediolanum Which of these conjectures commeth neerer to the truth judge you for me it is enough to give my guesse If I should say that either Duke Medus or Prince Olanus built this Mediolanum of ours and those Cities of the same name in Gaule or that whiles they were a building Sus mediatim Lanata that is That a Sow halfe fleeced with wooll was digged up might I not be thought thinke you to catch at Clouds and fish for Nifles Yet notwithstanding the Italians write as much of their Mediolanum But seeing that most true it is that these Cities were built by nations of the same language and that the Gaules and Britans spake all one language I have prooved already it is probable enough that for one and the same cause they had also one and the same denomination Howbeit this our Mediolanum in nothing so farre as I know agreeth with that of Italie unlesse it be that both of them are seated upon a plaine betweene two riverets and a learned Italian derived the name of their Mediolanum hence because it is a Citie standing in the middest betweene Lanas that is little rivers according to his owne interpretation But this may seeme overmuch of MEDIOLANUM which I have sought heere and about Alcester not farre off This Countie hath adorned no Earle with the name title and Honour thereof untill of late our Soveraigne King James created Philip Herbert second Sonne of Henry Earle of Penbroke by Mary Sidney for the singular love and affectionate favour toward him and for the great hope that he conceived of his vertues both Baron Herbert of Shurland and also Earle of Montgomery upon one and the same day at Greenwich in the yeere 1605. But the Princes of Powis descended from the third Sonne of Rotherike the great held this shire with others in a perpetuall line of succession although Roger and Hugh of Montgomery had encroched upon some part thereof untill the daies of King Edward the Second For then Oen ap Gruffin ap Guenwinwyn the last Lord of Powis of the British bloud for the name of Prince had long before been worne out of use left one onely daughter named Hawise whom Sir Iohn Charleton an English man the Kings Valect married and in right of his wife was by King Edward the Second made Lord of Powise who as I have seene in very many places gaue for his Armes a Lion Geules Rampant in a shield Or which he received from his wifes Progenitours Of his posterity there were foure males that bare this Honorable title untill that in Edward the succession of males had an end for he the said Edward begat of Aeleonor the daughter and one of the heires of Thomas Holland Earle of Kent Iane Wife to Sir Iohn Grey Knight and Joice married unto Iohn Lord Tiptoft from whom the Barons of Dudley and others derive their descent The said Sir Iohn Grey for his martiall prowesse and by the bountifull fauour of King Henry the Fifth received the Earledome of Tanquervill in Normandie to have unto him and his heires males by delivering one Bassinet at the Castle of Roan every yeere on Saint Georges day This John had a sonne named Henrie Lord of Powis in whose race the title of Powis with the Honour thereof continued untill Edward Grey died well neere in our time leaving no issue lawfully begotten This Shire hath Parishes 47. MERIONITH Comitatus olim pars ORDOVICVM MERIONETH-SHIRE FFrom the backeside of Montgomery-shire MERIONETH-SHIRE in British Sire-Verioneth in Latine Mervinia and as Giraldus calleth it Terra filiorum Canaeni that is Canaens sonnes Land reacheth to that crooked Bay I spake of and to the maine Sea which on the West side beateth so sore upon it that it is verily thought to have carryed away by violence some part thereof Southward for certaine miles together it is severed from Cardigan-shire by the river Dovy on the North it boundeth upon Caer-narvon and Denbigh-shires As for the in-land part it so riseth with mountaines standing one by another in plumps that as Giraldus saith it is the roughest and most unpleasant Country to see to in all Wales For it hath in it mountaines of a wonderfull height yet narrow and passing sharpe at the top in manner of a needle and those verily not scattering heere and there one but standing very thicke together and so even in height that Shepheards talking together or railing one at another on the tops of them if haply they appoint the field to encounter and meet together they can hardly doe it from morning till night But let the Reader heerein relie upon Giraldus credit Great flockes of Sheepe graze all over these mountaines neither are they in danger of Wolves who were thought then to have beene ridde quite out of all England and Wales when King Eadgar imposed upon Ludwall Prince of these
Countries to present three hundred Wolves yeerely unto him by way of Tribute For when as William of Malmesbury writeth he had for three yeeres performed this at the fourth yeere he gave over upon his protestation that hee could finde no more Yet long time after this there remained some still as appeareth for certaine by irreproveable testimonies of Record The inhabitants who for the most part wholly betake themselves to breeding and feeding of cattaile and live upon white mea●es as butter cheese c. how ever Strabo mocked our Britans in times past as unskilfull in making of cheese are for stature cleere complexion goodly feature and lineaments of body inferiour to no Nation in Britain but they have an ill name among their neighbours for being too forward in the wanton love of women and that proceeding from their idlenesse They have but few townes Eastward where Dovy runneth standeth Mouthwy a Commot very well knowne which fell for a childes part of inheritance to William alias Wilcock of Mouthwy a younger sonne of Gruffeth Ap Gwenwynwin Lord of Powis and by his sons daughter it came unto Sir Hugh Burgh and by his sonnes daughters likewise unto the Families of Newport Leighton Lingein and Mitton of especiall respect in these parts Where the ●iver Avon runneth downe more Westward there is Dolegethle a little mercat towne so called of the Vale wherein it is built Hard by the sea in the little territory named Ardudwy the Castle Arlech in times past named Caer Colun standeth advanced upon a very steepe rocke and looketh downe into the sea from aloft which being built as the Inhabitants report by King Edward the First tooke name of the situation For Arlech in the British tongue signifieth as much as upon a Stony rocke Whiles England was disjointed and lay torne with civill broiles David Ap Ienkin Ap Enion a noble Gentleman of Wales who tooke part with the house of Lancaster defended it stoutly against King Edward the Fourth untill that Sir William Herbert Earle of Pembrock making his way with much adoe through the midst of these mountaines of Wales no lesse passable than the Alpes assaulted this Castle in such furious thundering manner that it was yeelded up into his hands Incredible it is almost what a cumbersome journey hee had of it and with what difficulty hee gat through whiles he was constrained in some places to climbe up the hilles creeping in others to come downe tumbling both he and his company together Whereupon the dwellers thereabout call that way at this day Le Herbert A little higher in the very confines of the Shires two notable armes of the Sea enbosome themselves within the Land Traith Maur and Traith Bachan that is The greater Wash and the lesse And not farre from hence neere unto a little Village called Fastineog there is a street or Port-way paved with stone that passeth through these cumber●ome and in manner unpassable Mountaines Which considering that the Britans name it Sarn Helen that is Helens Street it is not to be thought but that Helena mother to Constantine the Great who did many such like famous workes throughout the Romane Empire laied the same with stone Neither standeth farre from it Caer-Gai that is The Castle of Caius built by one Caius a Roman touching whom the common people dwelling thereby report great wonders In the East side of the Shire the River Dee springeth out of two Fountaines whence some thinke it tooke the name for they call it Dwy which word importeth also among them the number of two although others would needs have it so tearmed of some Divinity other of the blacke colour and forthwith passeth entire and whole through Lhintegid in English Pimble-Meare and Plenlin-Meare a Lake spreading farre in length and breadth and so runneth out of it with as great a streame as it entred in For neither shall a man see in Dee the fishes called Guiniad which are peculiar to the Meare nor yet Salmons in the Meare which neverthelesse are commonly taken in the River But see if you please the description of this Lake or Meare in verse by the Antiquarian Poet. Hispida quà tellus Mervinia respicit Eurum Est locus antiquo Penlinum nomine dictus Hîc lacus illimeis in valle Tegeius alta Latè expandit aquas vastum conficit orbem Excipiens gremio latices qui fonte perenni Vicinis recidunt de montibus atque sonoris Illecebris captas demulcent suaviter aures Illud habet certè lacus admirabile dictu Quantumvis magna pluvia non astuat atqui Aëre turbato si ventus murmura tollat Excrescit subito rapidis violentior undis Et tumido superat contempias flumine ripas On th' East side of Merioneth a Country rough that is A place there lies by ancient name cleped Penlin ywis Whereas within a Valley deepe there spreadeth farre a Lake With waters cleere without all mud which compasse huge doth take Receiving sundry pirles to it and many a running rill That spring and fall continually from every neighbour hill And with shrill noise and pleasant sounds allured eares doe fill And verily a wonder't is of this Lake strange to tell Although the raine powre downe amaine the waters never swell But if the aire much troubled be and windes aloft doe blow It swelles at once no streame so much and bankes doth overflow On the browe or edge heereof standeth Bala a little Towne endowed with many immunities but peopled with few inhabitants and as rudely and unhandsomely built neverthelesse it is the chiefe Mercate Towne for these Mountainers Hugh Earle of Chester was the first of the Normans that tooke this Country and held it with planting Garisons what time as he kept Gruffin Ap Conan that is the sonne of Conan prisoner But Gruffin afterwards recovered it with the rest of his Principality and left it unto his heires untill it came unto the fatall Periode and so ended in Lhewellin It reckoneth Churches 37. CAERNARVŌ Comitatus pars olim ORDOVICVM CAERNARVON-SHIRE ABove Merionith-shire lieth that Country which the Britans call Sire Caer-ar-von and English men CAER-NARVON-SHIRE of the principall Towne therein and before that Wales was laied out into Shires they tearmed it by the name of Snowden-Forest and the Latine Historians Snaudonia of that Forest and Ar-vonia out of the British name because it hath Mona that is Anglesey just over against it The North side and the West butteth upon the Irish Sea the South-side is enclosed with Merioneth-shire and the East with Denbigh-shire from which it is severed by the River Conwy On that part which looketh toward the Sea especially where it shooteth forth a great way South-west with a Promontorie and stretcheth out the shores with crooked turning full against OCTOPITARUM or Saint Davids Land it is of a very fruitfull soile and garnished all a long with prety Townes As for the more in-land
the publike records of the Kingdome were buried a daughter of King Iohn a sonne of the King of the Danes the bodies also of the Lord Clifford and of other Lords Knights and Squires who in the time of the noble and renowned Kings of England were slaine in the Warres against the Welsh The next Towne in name to Beau-Marish is Newburg called in British Rossur standing ten miles off Westward which having been a long time greatly annoyed with heaps of sand driven in by the Sea complaineth that it hath lost much of the former state that it had Aber-fraw is not farre from hence which is now but an obscure and meane Towne yet in times past it excelled all the rest farre in worth and dignity as having been the Royall seat of the Kings of Guineth or North-Wales And in the utmost Promontorie Westward which wee call Holy-head there standeth a little poore Towne in British Caer-Guby so named of Kibie a right holy man and a disciple of Saint Hilarie of Poitiers who therein devoted himselfe to the service of God and from whence there is an usuall passage over into Ireland All the rest of this Island is well bespred with Villages which because they have in them nothing materially memorable I will crosse over into the Continent and view Denbigh-shire In this County there are reckoned Parishes 74. DENBIGH Comitatus pars Olim ORDOVICVM DENBIGH-SHIRE ON this side of the River Conwey DENBIGH-SHIRE in Welsh Sire Denbigh retyreth more within the Country from the Sea and shooteth Eastward in one place as farre as to the River Dee On the North North-West first the Sea for a small space and then Flint-shire on the West Merionith and Montgomery-shires on the East Cheshire and Shropp-shire encompasse it The West part is barraine the middle where it lyeth flat in a Valley most fruitfull The East side when it is once past the Valley hath not Nature so favourable unto it but next unto Dee it findeth her farre more kinde The West part but that it is somewhat more plentifull and pleasant toward the sea side is but heere and there inhabited and mounteth up more with bare and hungry hils but yet the painfull diligence and witty industry of the husbandmen hath begunne a good while since to overcome this leannesse of the soile where the hilles settle any thing flattish as in other parts of Wales likewise For after they have with a broad kinde of spade pared away the upper coat as it were or sord of the earth into certaine turfes they pile them up artificially on heapes put fire to them and burne them to ashes which being throwne upon the ground so pared and flayed causeth the hungry barrainnesse thereof so to fructifie that the fields bring forth a kinde of Rhie or Amel corne in such abundance as it is incredible Neither is this a new devise thus to burne the ground but very ancient as we may see in Virgil and Horace Among these Hilles there is a place commonly called Cerigy Drudion that is The stones of the Druidae and certaine little columnes or pillars are seene at Yvoellas with inscriptions in them of strange Characters which some imagine to have beene erected by the Druides and not farre from Clocainog this inscription is read in a stone AMILLIN TOVISATOC By the Vale side where these mountaines beginne now to wax thinner upon the hanging of a rocke standeth Denbigh called of our Britans by a more ancient name Cled Fryn-yn Ross that is A rough hill in Ross for so they call that part of the Shire which King Edward the First gave with other faire lands and possessions to David the brother of Lhewellin But when he soone after being found guilty of high treason was beheaded Henry Lacy Earle of Lincolne obtained it by the grant of the said King Edward and he fortified it with a wall about not large in circuit but strong and on the South side with a proper Castle strengthned with high Towres In the well whereof after that his onely sonne fortuned to be drowned the most sorrowfull father conceived such griefe that he gave over the worke and left it unfinished And after his death the Towne with the rest of the possessions descended unto the house of Lancaster by his daughter Alice who survived From whom notwithstanding it came first through the liberality of King Edward the Second when the said house was dejected unto Hugh Spenser Earle of Winchester then to Roger Mortimer by covenant and composition with King Edward the Third and the said Mortimers Armes are to be seene upon the chiefe gate But after that he was executed it with the Cantreds of Ross and Riewinoc c. were granted to William Montacute after Earle of Salisbury for supprising of Mortimer and shortly after it was restored unto the Mortimers and by them at length descended to the Family of Yorke At which time they of the House of Lancaster for the malice they bare unto Edward the Fourth who was of the family of Yorke did much hurt unto it And then either because the inhabitants like not the steepe situation thereof for the carriage up and downe was very incommodious or by reason that it wanted water they remooved downe from thence by little and little so as that this ancient Towne hath now few or none dwelling in it But a new one farre bigger than it sprung up at the very foote of the hill which is so well peopled and inhabited that by reason that the Church is not able to receive the multitude they beganne to build a new one in the place where the old Towne stood partly at the charges of their Lord Robert Earle of Leicester and partly with the money which they have gathered of many well disposed throughout England For the said Robert in the yeere 1564. was created by Queene Elizabeth Baron of Deubigh to him and the heires of his body lawfully begotten Neither is there any one Barony in all England that hath more Gentlemen holding thereof in fee and by service Now are we come into the very heart of the shire where Nature having removed the hils out of the way on both sides to shew what she could doe in a rough country hath spred beneath them a most beautifull pleasant vale reaching 17. miles in length from South to North and five miles or thereabout in bredth which lyeth open only toward the sea and the cleering North winde otherwise environed it is on every side with high hilles and those from the East side as it were embatled For such is the wonderfull workmanship of nature that the tops of these mountaines resemble in fashion the battlement of walles Among which the highest is Moilenlly on the top whereof I saw a warlike fense with trench and rampire also a little fountaine of cleere water This vale for wholsomenesse fruitfulnesse and pleasantnesse excelleth The colour and complexion of the Inhabitants is healthy their
were erected unto them We worship saith he The heads of great Rivers and the sudden breaking forth of an huge River out of an hidden and secret place hath Altars consecrated unto it Againe All waters as Servius Honoratus saith had their severall Nymphs to take the rule and protection of them Moreover in a Wall of the Church is fastened this broken and unperfect Inscription RUM CAES. AUG ANTONINI ET VERI JOVI DILECTI CAECILIUS PRAEF COH But in the very Church it selfe whiles I sought diligently for monuments of Romane Antiquity I found nothing but the Image in stone all armed of Sir Adam Midleton who seemeth to have flourished under King Edward the First and whose posterity remaineth yet in the Country heereby at Stubbam More beneath standeth Otley a Towne of the Archbishops of Yorke but it hath nothing memorable unlesse it bee one high and hard craggy cliffe called Chevin under which it is situate For the ridge of an hill the Britans terme Chevin whence I may conjecture that that continued ridge of mountaines in France where in old time they spake the same language that Britans did was called Gevenna and Gebenna After this Wherf runneth hard by with his bankes on both sides reared up and consisting of that Limestone which maketh grounds fat and fertile where I saw Harewood Castle of good strength which by the alteration of times hath often changed his Lords Long since it belonged to the Curcies but by Alice an inheritrice it came to Warin Fitz-Gerold who had taken her to wife whose daughter Margerie and one of his heires being endowed with a very great estate of living was first married unto Baldwin de Ripariis the Earles sonne of Devon-shire who dyed before his father afterwards to Folque de Brent by the beneficiall favour of King John for his approved service in pilling polling and spoiling most cruelly But when at length Isabell de Ripariis Countesse of Devon-shire departed this life without issue This Castle fell unto Robert de L'isle the sonne of Warin as unto her cozin in bloud and one of her heires in the end by those of Aldborrough it descended to the ●ithers as I am enformed by Francis Thinn who very diligently and judiciously hath a long time hunted after Pedigree antiquities Neither is Gawthorp adjoyning hereby to be concealed in silence when as the ancient Family of Gascoignes descended out of Gascoigne in France as it seemeth hath made it famous both with their vertue and Antiquity From hence runneth Wherf hard by Wetherby a Mercate Towne of good note which hath no antiquity at all to shew but a place only beneath it they call it usually now Saint Helens Fourd where the high Roman street crossed over the river From thence he passeth downe by Tadcaster a very little towne yet I cannot but thinke as well by the distance from other places as by the nature of the soile and by the name that it was CALCARIA For it is about nine Italian miles from Yorke according as Antonine hath set CALCARIA Also the limestone which is the very soader and binder of all morter and hardly elsewhere in this tract to be found heere is digged up in great plenty and vented as farre as to Yorke and the whole Country bordering round about for use in building Considering then that the said Lime was by the Britans and Saxons in old time and is by the Northren Englishmen called after the Roman name Calc For that imperious City Rome imposed not their yoke onely but their language also upon the subdued Nations seeing also that in the Code of Theodosius those bee tearmed Calcarienses who are the burners of limestone it may not seeme absurd if the Etymology of the name be fetched from Calx that is Chalke or Lime even as Chalcis of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is brasse Ammon of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Sand Pteleon of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Elmes and Calcaria a City of Cliveland haply of Calx that is Lime tooke their names especially seeing that Bede calleth it also Calca-cester Where he reporteth that Heina the first woman in this Country that put on the Vaile and religious habite of a Nunne retyred her selfe apart to this City and therein made her abode Moreover an Hill neere to the Towne is called Kelc-bar in which there lieth couched somewhat of the ancient name Neither are there other arguments wanting to prove the antiquity thereof For to say nothing how it is situate upon a port high way there be peeces of the Roman Emperours money oftentimes digged up and the tokens of the Trenches and Bankes that compassed it about the plot also where an old Castle stood yet remaining out of the reliques whereof not many yeeres agoe was a Bridge built which when Wherf is once passed under he becommeth more still and so gently intermingleth his water with Ouse And verily a thing it is in my judgement to be wondered at That Wherf being encreased with so many waters in Summer time runneth so shallow under this Bridge that one comming hither about Midsommer when he saw it pretily and merrily versified thus Nil Tadcaster habet Musis vel carmine dignum Praeter magnificè structum sine flumine pontem Nought hath Tadcaster worth my Muse and that my verse deserv's Unlesse a faire Bridge stately built the which no river serv's But had he come in Winter time he should have seene the Bridge so great as it was scarce able to receive so much water But naturall Philosophers know full well that both Welles and rivers according to the seasons and the heat or cold without or within do decrease or encrease accordingly Whereupon in his returne he finding here durt for dust and full currant water under the Bridge recanted with these verses Quae Tadcaster erat sine flumine pulvere plena Nunc habet immensum fluvium pro pulvere lutum Somewhat higher Nid a muddy river runneth downe well beset with woods on either side out of the bottome of Craven hils first by Niderdale a vale unto which it giveth name and from thence carrieth his streame by Rippley a Mercate Towne where the Inglebeys a Family of great antiquity flourished in good reputation Afterwards with his deepe chanell hee fenseth Gnaresburg commonly called Knarsborow Castle situate upon a most ragged and rough Rocke whence also it hath the name which Serle de Burgh Unkle by the fathers side to Eustace Vescy built as the tradition holdeth Afterward it became the seate of the Estoteviles and now is counted part of the lands belonging to the Dutchy of Lancaster Under it there is a well in which the waters spring not up out of the veines of the earth but distill and trickle downe dropping from the rockes hanging over it whence they call it Dropping well into which what wood soever is put
that Towne where the King used to lye which Bede saith was situate neere unto the River Doroventio In which as hee also writeth Eumer that murderous Villaine thrust at Edwin King of Northumberland with a sword and had runne him through but that one of his men stepped betweene and saved the Kings life with the losse of his owne Yet could I never have said precisely which was the very place had not that most judicious Robert Marshall given me a light thereof For he gave me to understand that just at the very same distance from Yorke which I spake of there stands hard upon the River Darwent a little Towne named Auldby that is if you interprete the Saxon word The old Habitation where are extant yet in sight some tokens of Antiquity and upon a very high Hill neere unto the River the rubbish of an ancient Fortification so that it cannot chuse but to have beene the said City Derventio From hence glideth the River hard under Stanford-Bridge which also of the battaile there fought is called Battlebridge For at that Bridge Harald King of England after a great execution done upon the Danes flew in a pight field Harald Hardread King of Norway who with a Fleet of 200. saile grievously annoyed the Isle of Britaine and was now landed at Richall spoiling and wasting all in his way The King of England who having the honour of the field found among the spoiles such a masse of Gold as that twelve lusty young men had much adoe to carry it on their backes as Adam Bremensis recordeth This field was foughten scarce nine dayes before the arrivall of William Conquerour what time the dissolute and roiotous life of the Englishmen seemed to foretell their imminent overthrow and destruction But of this I have spoken before Derwent which when it is encreased with raine and as it were provoked to anger doth oftentimes contemne his bankes and surround the medowes lying about it passing from hence by Wreshil a proper and a strong Castle which Sir Thomas Percy Earle of Worcester built runneth amaine under Babthorpe which yeeldeth both name and habitation to a worshipfull Family of Knights degree and so at length dischargeth himselfe into Ouse Out of this stocke it was for let us not thinke much to tell of those who performed faithfull service to their Prince and Country that both father and sonne fighting together under the banner of King Henry the Sixth lost their lives in the Battaile of Saint Albans and were there buryed together with this Epitaph Cum patre Radulpho Babthorp jacet ecce Radulphus Filius hoc duro marmore pressus humo Henrici Sexti dapifer pater Armiger ejus Mors satis id docuit fidus uterque fuit c. Behold where two Raulph Babthorps both the sonne and father lye Under a stone of marble hard interr'd in this mould dry To Henry the Sixth the father Squire the Sonne he Sewer was Both true to Prince and for his sake they both their life did passe And now Ouse by this time carrying a fuller streame runneth neere Howden a Mercate Towne famous not so much for any beauty in it or great resort thereto as because it hath given name to a little Territory adjoyning called of it Howdenshire and had therein not long since a prety Collegiat Church of five Prebendaries unto which joyneth the Bishops house of Durrham who have great lands thereabout One of which namely Walter Skirlaw who flourished about the yeere of our Lord 1390. as we reade in the booke of Durrham built a very great and large steeple to this Church that if there happened by chance any inundation it might serve the inhabitants for a place of refuge to save themselves in And not farre from hence stands Metham which gave both sirname and habitation also to the ancient house of the Methams Now the River Ouse being very broad swift and roring besides out powreth his streame into the Frith or salt water ABUS For so calleth Ptolomee that arme of the Sea which the English Saxons and we tearme Humber whereof also the Country beyond it by a generall name was called Northumberland Both these names may seeme to have beene drawne with some little change from the British word Aber which among them signifieth the mouth of a River and I would thinke it was imposed upon this River by way of excellency because Ure or Ouse having entertained and lodged many Rivers carryeth them all with him along into this yea and other Rivers of right great name are emptied into it And verily it is one of the broadest armes of the sea and best stored with fish in all Britaine It riseth high as the Ocean at every tide floweth and when the same ebbeth and returneth backe it carryeth his owne streame and the currant of the Sea together most forcibly and with a mighty noise not without great danger of such as saile therein whence Necham writeth thus of it Fluctibus aequoreis nautis suspectior Humber Dedignans Urbes visere rura colit More fear'd of shipmen Humber streame than waves of sea so deepe Disdaining cities great to see neere country townes doth keepe And following the British History as if it had beene so called of a King of the Hunnes he addeth this moreover Hunnorum princeps ostendens terga Locrino Submersus nomen contulit Humbris aquae A Prince of Hunnes whiles that he shew'd his backe to Locrine brave Was drowned heere and so the name to Humber water gave Touching whom another Poet also Dum fugit obstat ei flumen submergitur illic Dèque suo tribuit nomine nomen aquae Whiles he turn'd backe and tooke his flight the River stopt the same There drown'd was he and then of him the water tooke the name Neither were there indeed any Cities seene to stand by this Arme of the Sea in Nechams daies but before and after there flourished one or two Cities in these places Under the Roman Empire not farre from the banke by Foulnesse a River of small account where Wighton a little Towne of Husbandry well inhabited is now seene stood as we may well thinke in old time DELGOVITIA and that I may not take hold of the distance from DERVENTIO for a proofe both the resemblance and the signification also of the name doe concurre For Delgwe in the British tongue signifieth The Statues or Images of the Heathen Gods and in a small Village adjoyning to this little Towne there was a Temple of Idols even in the Saxons time of exceeding great name and request which of those Heathen gods was then termed Godmundingham and now is called in the same sense Godmanham Neither doubt I but that even when the Britans flourished it was some famous Oracle much frequented when superstition spread and swaying among all Nations had wholly possessed the weake mindes of ignorant people But when Paulinus preached Christ unto Northumberland men Coy-fi who had beene a Pontife or
a mercate towne well knowne which river watereth Stokesley a little mercate towne likewise that hath a long time appertained to the Noble family of Eure. Beneath which places Wharton Castle belonging in times past to the Barons Menill and Harlsey to the family of Hotham and afterward to Stragwaies now wrestle with old age and hardly hold up their heads The mouth of Tees aforesaid suspected in times past of sailers is now found to be a sure road and harbour and to give direction for safe accesse and entrance unto it there are erected on both sides thereof within our remembrance high turrets with light Foure miles from this Tees mouth standeth Gisburgh on high now a small towne but whiles it stood in flourishing estate it was right glorious for a very faire and rich Abbay built by Robert de Brus Lord of the place about the yeere of our Salvation 1119 and for the common buriall place of all the gentry and nobility in this tract which also brought forth Walter de Heminford no unlearned Historiographer This verily is a passing good place and may well for pleasantnesse delightsome variety and rare gifts of Nature contend with Puteoli in Italy which in regard of healthy situation it also farre excelleth The aire is mollified and made more mild by the mountaines seated betweene it and what way the sea yeeldeth a cold and winterly disposition the soile fruitfull and plenteous in grasse affordeth delectable floures a great part of the yeere and richly aboundeth with vaines of metall and Alum-earth of sundry colours but especially of ocher and murray likewise of iron out of which they have now begunne to try very good Alum and Coperose Which with learned skill and cunning not many yeeres since Sir Thomas Chal●ner Knight a learned searcher into natures workes and unto whose charge our most high and mightie King hath committed his son Prince Henry the lovely joy and delight of Brittaine first discovered by observing that the leaves of trees were of a more weak greene colour here than in other places that the oakes had their rootes spreading broad but very eb within the ground the which had much strength but small store of sappe that the earth standing upon clay and being of divers colours whitish yellowish and blew was never frozen and in a cleere night glittered in the pathes like unto glasse Not farre off Onusbery or Rosebery Topping mounteth up a mighty height and maketh a goodly shew a farre off serving unto sailers for a marke of direction and to the neighbour inhabitants for a prognostication For so often as the head thereof hath his cloudy cap on lightly there followeth raine whereupon they have a Proverbiall Rhime when Rosebery Topping weares a cap Let Cliveland then beware a clap Neere unto the top of it out of an huge rocke there floweth a spring of water medicinable for diseased eies and from hence there is a most goodly and pleasant prospect downe into the vallies below lying a great way about to the hils full of grasse greene meddowes delightsome pastures fruitfull corne fields riverets stored with fish the river Tees mouth full of rodes and harbours the ground plaine and open without danger of inundation and into the sea with ships therein under saile Beneath it standeth Kildale a Castle of the Percies Earles of Northumberland and more Eastward Danby which from Brus also by the Thwengs came unto the Baron Latimers from whose heire descended the Willoughbeies Barons of Brooke But this Danby with other possessions was sold to the Nevills of which family Sir George Nevill was by King Henry the sixth called among the Barons to the Parliaments under the name of Lord Latimer in whose progenie and posterity this dignity hath continued unto our daies There remaineth nothing else heere for me to note but that the Barons Meinill held certaine lands in this shire of the Archbishops of Canterbury and for the same the Coigniers Strangwaies and Darcies descended from them are bound to performe certaine service to the said Archbishops And whereas the King of England by his Prerogative shall have the Wardship these bee the very words of the Praerogative of all their lands who hold of him in chiefe by Knights service of which themselves as tenants shall be seized in their Demesne as of Fae the day whereon they die of whomsoever they held by the like service so that themselves notwithstanding hold of the King any tenement of the ancient demesne of the Crowne unto the full and lawfull age of the heire Yet are excepted these Fees and others of the Archbishop of Canterbury and the Bishop of Durrham betweene Tine and Tees c. so that they may have the Wardship of such lands although elsewhere they held of the King Farther within the country among the mountaines of Blaca amore there offereth it selfe besides wandering beakes and violent swift brookes which challenge the vallies every where as their owne to passe through no memorable thing unlesse it be Pickering a good bigge towne belonging to the Dutchy of Lancaster situate upon an hill and fortified with an old Castle unto which a number of small villages lying there round about doe appertaine whereupon the country adjoyning is commonly called Pickering Lith The Libertie of Pickering and Forest of Pickering the which King Henry the Third gave unto his younger sonne Edmund Earle of Lancaster Wherein neere unto the river Darwent standeth Atton that gave name unto the right noble family of the Attons Knights descended from the Lords Vescy the inheritance of which family was by the daughters parted betweene Edward Saint Iohn the Evers and the Coigniers Now from Edward Saint Iohn a great portion thereof came by a daughter to Henrie Bromflet Which Henrie verily was summoned to the High court of Parliament by these expresse termes elsewhere not to be found in Summons Our Will is that both yee and your heires males of your body lawfully issuing be Barons of Vescy Afterwards that title passed away by a daughter to the Cliffords On the otherside foure miles from Pickering neere unto Dow a swift running riveret lieth Kirkby-Morside hard unto the hilles whereof it had that name a Market towne not of the meanest reckoning and the possession sometime of the Estotevilles Behind these Westward Rhidal lieth low a goodly pleasant and plentifull vale adorned with three and twenty Parish-churches through the mids wherof runneth the river Rhie A place as saith William of Newburrough wast desolate and full of horrour before that Walter Espec had granted it to the Monkes of the Cluniak order and founded there an Abbay In this vale is Elmesly seated which if I deceive not my selfe Bede called Vlmetum where that Robert called de Rosse surnamed Fursan built a Castle nere unto which the river Recall hideth it selfe under the ground More beneath hard by the river side standeth Riton an ancient possession of the ancient familie of the Percihaies commonly
upon an horse all trapped with one hand brandishing a sword and in the other holding out the Armes of the Bishopricke The Bishops also have had their royalties and princely rights so that the goods of outlawed and attainted persons out of the Kings protection fell into their hands and not into the Kings yea and the Commons of that Province standing upon their priviledges have refused to serve in warre under the King in Scotland For they pleaded the Story of Duresme shall speake for mee That they were Haliwerke folkes and held their lands to defend the Corps of Saint Cuthbert neither ought they to goe out of the precincts of the Bishopricke namely beyond Tine and Teese for King or Bishop But King Edward the First was the first that abridged them of these liberties For when as he interposed himselfe as Arbitratour betweene the Bishop Antony Bec and the Priour who contended most egerly about certaine lands and they would not stand to his award Hee seised as saith mine Authour the liberty of the Bishopricke into his owne hand and there were many corners searched many flawes found and the Liberty in many points much impaired Howbeit the Church afterward recovered her rights and held them inviolate unto the daies of King Edward the Sixth unto whom upon the dissolution of the Bishopricke the States in Parliament granted all the revenewes and liberties thereof But forthwith Queene Mary by the same authority repealed this Act and restored all things safe and sound unto the Church againe which it enjoyeth at this day For the Bishop James Pilkinton of late time entred his action against Queene Elizabeth about the possessions and goods of Charles Nevill Earle of Westmorland and of others that stood attainted for treason in this precinct because they had most wickedly levied warre against their native Country and he the said Bishop had followed the suit to a triall if the authority of Parliament had not interposed and adjudged the same for that time unto the Queene because to her exceeding great charges she had delivered both Bishop and Bishopricke from the outrage of the Rebels But leaving these matters let us proceed forward to the descripton of places The riuer that boundeth the South part of this country is called by Latin writers Teisis and Teesa commonly Tees by Polydore Virgill the Italian whose minde ranne of Athesis in his owne country Italy without any reason Athesis In Ptolomee it seemeth to be called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and yet I thinke that in him it is removed out of his proper place through the negligence of transcribers For considering that he hath placed TUESIS and TINA in the more remote part of Britaine where the Scots now inhabite and seeing that this Region is enclosed within Tees and Tine If I durst as a Criticke correct that ancient Geographer I would recall them home againe hither into their owne places though they have been long displaced and that with the Scots good leave I hope who have no Rivers upon which they can truely father these names TEES springeth out of that stony country called Stanemore and carrying with him away in his chanell along many brookes and beckes on each side and running through rockes out of which at Egleston where there is a marble Quarroy and where Conan Earle of Britaine and Richmond founded a small Abbay first beateth upon Bernard Castle built and so named by Bernard Balliol the great grandfathers father of John Balliol King of the Scots But this John Balliol whom King Edward the First had declared King of Scotland lost the same with other his possessions because he had broken his alleageance which he sware unto Edward At which time the King being highly displeased with Antony Bishop of Durrham tooke this Castle as witnesseth the booke of Duresme with the appertinences thereto from him and conferred the same upon the Earle of Warwicke as Herkes also and Hertnes which hee gave unto Robert Clifford Kewerston also which hee bestowed upon Geffrey of Hertpole which the Bishop had by the forfeiture of Iohn Baliol Robert Bruse and Christopher Seton But a few yeeres after Lewis Beaumount the Bishop a man royally descended but altogether unlettered brought his action for this Castle and the rest of those possessions and obtained his suite by vertue of judgement given in this tenour The Bishop of Durham ought to have the forfeiture of Warres within the Liberties of his Bishopricke as the King hath it without Hard by it is Stretlham seene where dwelt for a long time the worshipfull family of the Bowes Knights who from time to time in the greatest troubles have performed passing good service to Prince and Country and derive their pedigree from W. de Bowes unto whom as I have read Alanus Niger Earle of Britaine and Richmond granted that hee might give for his Armes The Scutcheon of Britaine with three bent Bowes therein Not full five miles from hence standeth somewhat farther from Tees banke Standrop which also is called Stainthorpe that is Stony Village a little Mercate Towne where there was a Collegiat Church founded by the Nevills and was their Buriall-place Neere unto it is Raby whch Cnut or Canute the Danish King gave freely unto the Church of Durham together with the land lying round about it and Stanthorpe to be held for ever Since which time as mine Authour informeth mee The Family of the Nevills or De nova villa held Raby of the Church paying yeerely for it foure pounds and a Stagge These Nevilles deduce their Descent from Waltheof Earle of Northumberland out of whose posterity when Robert the sonne of Maldred Lord of Raby had married the daughter of Geffrey Nevill the Norman whose Grandsire Gilbert Nevill is reported to have beene Admirall to King William the Conquerour their succeeding Progeny tooke unto them the name of Nevilles and grew up into a most numerous honourable and mighty house who erected heere a great and spacious Castle which was the first and principall seate These two places Stainthorpe and Raby are severed one from another onely by a little rill which after some few miles runneth into Tees neere unto Selaby where now is the habitation of the Brakenburies a Family of right good note both in regard of their owne Antiquity as also for their marriages contracted with the heires of Denton and of Wicliff Tees passing on from thence by Sockburne the dwelling house of the ancient and noble Family of the Coigniers out of which were the Barons Coigniers of Hornby whose inheritance much bettered by matching in marriage with the heires of the Lord Darcy of Metnill and of William Nevill Earle of Kent and Lord of Fauconberg is descended from them in the memory of our fathers to the Atherstons and the Darcies holdeth his course neere unto Derlington a Mercate Towne of good resort which Seir an English Saxon the sonne of Ulph
whiles in hostile manner made inrodes into his lands untill the moderate carriage of the good and worthy man and processe of time pacified these quarrels Here along the sea shore you may see in many places heaps of sand whereupon they powre water untill it gather a saltish humour which afterwards with turfes they boile untill it be white salt There be also here uncertaine sands not to bee trusted but ready to catch and swallow they call them Quick-sands so dangerous for travellers whiles at a low water when tide is past they seeke to goe the nearest way that they had need to take very good heed lest in going a foot I use Sidonius his words they suffer not shipwracke and be cast away on the land But especially about the mouth of Cocar where as it were in a field of Syrts or Quick-sands Cokar sand Abbey an Abbey not long since of the Cluniack Monkes built by Ranulph de Meschines but open to the violence of windes stood betweene the mouths of Cocar and Lune or Lone and hath a bleake prospect into the wide Irish sea This river Lone commonly called Lune springing out of the mountaines of Westmorland running Southward in a chanell now broad now narrow with many a reach in and out hindring his streame enricheth the dwellers thereby in Summer time with great store of Salmons which because they delight in cleere water and especially in shallow places that are sandy come up thicke together into this and other rivers of this coast As soone as Lune is entred into Lancashire Lace a little brooke from out of the East joyneth his streame with it In which place now standeth Over-Burrow a very small village of husbandmen which as the inhabitants enformed mee had beene sometimes a great City and tooke up all those large fields betweene Lacce and Lone and after it had suffered all miseries that follow famine was driven to composition through extremity This tradition they received from their ancestours delivered as it were from hand to hand unto them And in very truth by divers and sundry monuments exceeding ancient by engraven stones pavements of square checker worke peeces of Romane coine and by this new name Burrow which with us signifieth a Burgh that place should seeme to bee of great antiquity But if it recover the ancient name it may thanke other and not mee although I have sought as narrowly and diligently for it as for Ants pathes neither is any man to thinke that the severall names of every towne in Britaine are precisely noted and set done in Ptolomee Antonine The Notice of Provinces and other approved and principall Authors But if a man may goe by ghesse I would willingly thinke that it was BREMETONACUM which Ierome Surita a Spaniard in his notes upon Antonine or Rible-chester deemeth truely to be a different place from BREMENTURACUM and that by the distance from COCCIUM or Rible-chester From this Burrow the river Lune runneth beside Thurland Tunstalls a fortresse built by Sir Thomas Tunstall in the time of King Henry the fourth when the King had given him Licence to fortifie and kernell his mansion house that is to embatle it also by Hornby a faire castle which glorieth much of the first founder N. de Mont Begon and of the Lords thereof The Harringtons and Stanleys Barons Stanleyes of Mont-Eagle descended from Thomas Stanley the first Earle of Derby of that house and advanced to that title by King Henry the eighth of whom the third and the last named William left behind him his onely daughter and heire Elizabeth wife to Edward Parker Baron Morley mother to Sir William Parker whom in that regard King James commanded to be summoned to Parliament by the title of Lord Mont-Eagle and whom wee and all our posterity may acknowledge to have beene borne for the good of all Britain For by a short letter obscurely penned and secretly sent unto him and by him dutifully discovered in a happy houre was detected at the very last houre in a maner when the whole State was at the point to perish by the most horrible and detestable treason that ever any barbarous impiety could contrive what time certaine godlesse and irreligious monsters of men masking under the mantle of religion having bestowed a great quantity of gun-powder under the Parliament house stood ready with match in hand to give fire thereto for to blow up both Prince and Countrey with one blast in a moment Lone having passed on some few miles from hence commeth within the sight of Lancaster standing on his South banke the chiefe towne of this region which the inhabitants more truly call Loncaster as the Scots also who name it Loncastell of the River Lone Both the name still remaining and the river running under it doe argue in some sort that it is LONGOVICUM where under the Lievtenant Generall of Britaine as wee finde in the Notice of Provinces a company of the Longovicarians who of the place borrowed that name kept their station Although the towne at this day is not very well peopled nor much frequented and all the inhabitants thereof are given to husbandry for the territory all round about is well manured lying open fresh and faire and not voide of woods yet for proofe of Romane antiquity they finde otherwhiles peeces of the Emperours coine especially where the Friery stood for there they say was the plot upon which the ancient City was planted which the Scots after they had with a sudden out-road wasted all in their way in the yeere of our Redemption 1322. set on fire and burnt Since which time they have begunne to build nearer unto a greene hill by the river side on which standeth the castle great I cannot say nor of any antiquity but faire and strong And hard by it standeth upon the height of the hill the onely Church they have where the Monkes aliens had in times past a cell founded by Roger of Poictiers A little beneath which by a faire bridge over Lone in the descent and side of the hill where it is steepest hangeth a peece of a most ancient wall of Romane work seeming ready to reele Wery wall they call it after a later British name as it should seeme of this towne For they called it Caer Werid as one would say The Greene City happely of that fresh greene hill But I leave this to others John Lord of Moriton and of Lancaster afterwards King of England confirmed by Charter to his Burgesses of Lancaster all the liberties which he had granted unto the Burgesses of Bristoll And King Edward the third in the sixe and thirtieth yeere of his reign granted unto the Mayor and Bailives and Commonalty of the towne of Lancaster that Plees and Sessions should not elsewhere bee holden This towne seeth the Pole Arcticke that I may note so much elevated foure and fifty degrees and five minutes and standeth removed from the utmost line of
Romane high-way goeth straight into the West by Whinfield a large Parke shaded with trees hard by BROVONIACUM standing twentie Italian miles or seventeene English miles from VERTERAE as Antonine hath set it who also hath called it Brovocum like as the book of Notices Broconiacum which specifieth that a companie or band of Defensors had here their abode The beautie and buildings of this towne although time hath consumed yet the name remaineth almost untouched for we call it Brogham Here the river Eimot flowing out of a great lake for a good space dividing this shire from Cumberland receiveth the river Loder into it neere unto the spring head whereof hard by Shape in times past Hepe a little monasterie built by Thomas the sonne of Gospatrick sonne of Orms there is a Well or Fountaine which after the manner of Euripus ebbeth and floweth many times in a day also there be huge stones in forme of Pyramides some 9. foot high and fourteene foot thick ranged directly as it were in a row for a mile in length with equall distance almost betweene which may seeme to have beene pitched and erected for to continue the memoriall of some act there atchieved but what the same was by the injurie of time it is quite forgotten Hard by Loder there is a place bearing the same name which like as Stricland neere unto it hath imparted their names to families of ancient gentrie and worship Somewhat above where Loder and Eimot meet in one chanell in the yeere of our Lord 1602. there was a stone gotten out of the ground erected in the honour of Constantine the Great with these words IMP. C. VAL. CONSTANTINO PIENT AUG When Eimot hath served a good while for a limit betweene this shire and Cumberland neere unto Isan-parles a rocke full well knowne unto the neighbour inhabitants whereunto nature hath left difficult passage and there framed sundry caves and thosefull of winding crankes a place of safe refuge in time of danger hee lodgeth himselfe after some few miles both with his owne streame and with the waters of other rivers also in Eden so soone as he hath entertained Blencarne a brook that boundeth this county on Cumberland side Neere unto which I have heard there be the strange ruines of an old Castle the people call them the hanging walls of Marcantoniby that is of Marke Antony as they would have it As for such as have borne the title of Westmorland the first Lord to my knowledge was Robert de Vipont who bare Guels sixe Annulets Or in his coat armour For King John gave unto him the balliwicke and revenues of Westmorland by the service of foure Knights whereupon the Cliffords his successors untill our daies held the office of the Sherifdome of Westmorland For Robert de Vipont the last of that name left behind him only two daughters Isabel wife to Roger Lord Clifford and Idonea married unto Sir Roger Leybourne Long time after K. Richard the second created Ralph Nevill of Raby the first Earle of Westmorland a man of the greatest and most ancient birth of English nobility as descended from Ucthred Earl of Northumberland whose heires successively by his former wife Margaret daughter to the Earle of Stafford flourished in that honour untill that Charles by his wilfull stomack and wicked conspiracy casting off his allegeance to Q. Elizabeth and covering treason under the mantle of religion most shamefully dishonoured that most noble house and foully steined his owne reputation by actuall rebellion in the yeere 1599. Whereupon hee fled into the Low countries led a miserable life and died as miserably The said first Earle to note so much incidently by his second wife Catharine daughter to John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster had so faire issue and the name of Nevill thereby so greatly multiplied that almost at one and the same time there flourished out beside the Earle of Westmorland an Earle of Salisbury an Earle of Warwicke an Earle of Kent Marquesse Montacute a Duke of Bedford Lord Latimer and Lord Abergevenny all Nevils In this shire are conteined Parishes 26. CVMBRIA Sive CVMBERLANDIA Quae olim pars Brigantum CUMBER-LAND WEstward Northward from Westmorland lieth CUMBERLAND the utmost region this way of the realme of England as that which on the North side boundeth upon Scotland on the South side and the West the Irish sea beateth upon it and Eastward above Westmorland it butteth upon Northumberland It tooke the name of the inhabitants who were the true and naturall Britans and called themselves in their owne language Kumbri and Kambri For the Histories testifie that the Britans remained here a long time maugre the English Saxons howsoever they stormed thereat yea and Marianus himselfe recordeth as much who tearmed this countrey Cumbrorum terram that is Th● land of the Cumbri or Britans to say nothing of the places that everie where here beare British names as Caer-Luel Caer-dronoc Pen-rith Pen-rodoc c. which most evidently declare the same and as cleerly prove mine assertion The country although it be somewhat with the coldest as lying farre North and seemeth as rough by reason of hills yet for the varietie thereof it smileth upon the beholders and giveth contentment to as many as travaile it For after the rockes bunching out the mountaines standing thicke together rich of metall mines and betweene them great meeres stored with all kindes of wilde foule you come to prettie hills good for pastorage and well replenished with flockes of sheepe beneath which againe you meet with goodly plaines spreading out a great way yeelding come sufficiently Besides all this the Ocean driving and dashing upon the shore affoordeth plentie of excellent good fish and upbraideth as it were the inhabitants thereabouts with their negligence for that they practise fishing no more than they doe The South part of this shire is called Copeland and Coupland for that it beareth up the head aloft with sharpe edged and pointed hills which the Britans tearme Copa or as others would have it named Copeland as one would say Coperland of rich mines of copper therein In this part at the very mouth of the river Duden whereby it is severed apart from Lancashire standeth Millum Castle belonging to the ancient house of the Hodlestones from whence as the shore fetcheth about with a bent Northward two rivers very commodiously enclose within them Ravenglasse a station or roade for ships where also as I have learned were to be ●eene Roman inscriptions some will have it called in old time Aven-glasse as one would say the blew river and they talke much of King Eueling that here had his Court and royall palace One of these rivers named Eske springeth up at the foot of Hard-knot an high steepe mountaine in the top whereof were discovered of late huge stones and foundations of a castle not without great wonder considering it is so steep and upright that one can hardly ascend up to it
and recovered this tract or Province which before had beene lost But these ancient names were quite worne out of use in the English Saxon war and all the Countries lying North on the other side of the Arme of the sea called Humber began by a Saxon name to bee called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The Kingdome of Northumberland which name notwithstanding being now cleane gone in the rest of the Shires remaineth still as it were surviving in Northumberland onely Which when that state or kingdome stood was knowne to bee a part of the Kingdome of Bernicia which had peculiar petty Kings and reached from the River TEES to Edenborough Frith NORTH-HUMBER-LAND NOrth-umber-land which the English Saxons called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 lieth after a sort enclosed in fashion of a Triangle but not with equall sides The South side is shut in with Derwent running into Tine and with Tine it selfe where it butteth upon the Bishoprick of Durham The East side the German sea lieth and beateth upon it But the West side which reacheth out from South-west to North-east is first parted from Cumber-land afterward with Cheviot and hills linked one to another and lastly with the river Twede it affronteth Scotland and so was the limit of both kingdomes over which were set in this countie two Governours the one called L. Warden of the middle Marches the other of the East marches The ground it selfe for the most part rough and hard to be manured seemeth to have hardened the inhabitants whom the Scots their neighbours also made more fierce and hardie while sometimes they keep them exercised in warres and other whiles in time of peace intermingle their manners among them so that by these meanes they are a most warlike nation and excellent good light-horsemen And whereas they addicted themselves as it were wholly to Mars and Armes there is not a man amongst them of the better sort that hath not his little tower or pile and so it was divided into a number of Baronies the Lords whereof in times past before King Edward the first his dayes went commonly under the name Barons although some of them were of no great living But a wise and politicke device this was of our Ancestours to cherish and maintaine martiall prowesse among them in the marches of the kingdome if it were nothing else but with an honourable bare title Howbeit this title came to nothing among them what time as under King Edward the first those onely began to enjoy the name and honour of Barons whom the Kings summoned unto the high Court of Parliament by speciall summons Toward the sea and Tine by diligence and good husbandrie it becommeth very fruitfull but elsewhere it is more barraine rough and as it were unmanurable And in many places those stones Lithanthraces which we call Sea-coales are digged up in great plentie to the great gaine of the inhabitants and commoditie of others The hithermore part bending toward the South-west and called Hexam-shire acknowledged a long time the Archbishop of Yorke for the Lord thereof and challenged unto it selfe by what right I know not the priviledge of a Countie Palatine But after it became of late annexed unto the crowne land upon an exchange made with Robert the Archbishop by authority of Parliament it was laied unto the countie of Northumberland that it should be subject to the same jurisdiction and in all causes have recourse unto the high Sheriffe thereof South Tine a river so called if wee may beleeve our Britans for that by reason of his narrow bankes hee is straight pent in for so signifieth Tin as they say in the British tongue having his spring head in Cumberland neere unto Alsten-more where there was an ancient copper mine holding on his course by Lambley sometime a Nunnerie built by the Lucies and now with floods for the most part undermined and fallen downe also by Fetherston-Haugh the seat of the ancient and well descended family of Fetherston when hee is come as farre as Bellister Castle turning Eastward runneth directly forward with the WALL which is in no place three miles distant from it toward the North. For the Wall having left Cumberland behind it and crossed over the Irthing passed likewise with an arch over the swift riveret Poltrosse where I saw within the wall high mounts of earth cast up as it were to over look and discover the country Neer this standeth Thirl-wale Castle which is not great but strongly built yet it gave both habitation and surname to the ancient and noble family which was first called Wade where the Picts and Scottish made their passage into the Province between Irthing and Tine and that verily upon good forecast in that place where they had free entrance by reason of no river in their way into the inmore parts of England But you shall better understand this and the name of the place out of John Fordon the Scottish Historian whose words it will not bee amisse as I thinke to set downe here because the booke is not everie where to bee had The Scots saith hee when by conquest they had gotten the possession of those countries which are on this side the wall toward Scotland began to inhabite them and having of a suddaine raised a sort of the Country people with their mattockes pickaxes rakes three tined forkes and spades make wide gappes and a number of holes in it by which breaches they might passe in out readily at their pleasure Of those holes therefore this mound of the wall afterward took the name Thirlwall which it hath at this day in this place for in the English tongue that very place is called Thirlwall which is as much as a wall pierced through Then saw we Blenkensop which gave name unto a generous family as also their habitation in a right pleasant country Southward which was part of the Baronie of Sir Nicholas of Bolteby a Baron of renowne in the time of King Edward the first When you are past Thirlwall the said wall openeth it selfe unto the raging river Tippall where in the descent of an hill a little within the wall is to bee seene the ground worke of a Castle of the Romans in forme foure square everie side whereof taketh an hundred and fortie paces The verie foundations likewise of houses and trackes of streets still appeare most evidently to the beholders The Ranke-riders or taking men of the borders doe report that a great port-way paved with flint and bigge stone led from hence through wastes unto Maiden castle in Stanemore Certes it passed directly to Kirkby Thor whereof I spake A poore old woman that dwelt in a little poore cottage hard by shewed unto us an ancient little altar-stone in testimonie of some vow with this inscription unto VITIRINEUS a tutelar God as it seemed of the place DEO VITI RINE LIMEO ROV P. L. M. This place is now named Caer Vorran what
bigge and large as that it may seeme to match with a city Neither went it for any other but a castle when King William Rufus having raised over against it a tower called Mal-voisin gave assault continually to Mowbray while hee rebelled and lurked there who at length privily stole away escaped by flight The greatest part of the beauty therof was lost long time after in the civill warre when Bressie the Norman redoubted souldier who sided with the house of Lancaster exercised his rage against it very outragiously Since then it hath beene sore beaten with time and the windes together which have blowne by drifts an incredible deale of sand of the sea into the fortresses Hereto adjoyneth Emildon sometime the Barony of John Le Viscont but Rametta the heire of that house sold away the possessions to Simon de Montfort Earle of Leicester In this was borne John Duns called Scotus because hee was descended of Scotish bloud who being brought up in Merton Colledge at Oxford became wonderfull well learned in Logicke and in that crabbed and intricate Divinity of those dayes yet as one still doubtfull and unresolved he did overcast the truth of religion with mists of obscurity And with so profound and admirable subtlety in a darke and rude stile hee wrote many workes that hee deserved the title of the Subtile Doctor and after his owne name erected a new sect of the Scotists But hee died pitifully being taken with an Apoplexy and overhastily buried for dead whiles upon returne of life nature though too late was about to discusse the violence of the disease and hee making meanes in vaine by a lamentable noise to call for helpe after he had a long time knocked his head against the grave stone dashed out his owne braines and at last yeelded up his vitall breath Whereupon a certain Italian wrote thus of him Quaecunque humani fuerant jurisque sacrati In dubium veniunt cuncta vocante Scoto Quid quod in dubium illius sit vita vocata Morte illum simili ludificante strophâ Quum non ante virum vitâ jugularit ademptâ Quàm vivus tumulo conditus ille foret All learning taught in humane books and couch'd in holy writ Dan Scotus darke and doubtfull made by subtlety of wit No marvaile that to doubtfull termes of life himselfe was brought Whiles with like wile and subtle tricke death on his body wrought When as her stroke to kill outright she would not him vouchsafe Untill the man a piteous case was buried quicke in grave That he was borne here in England I avouch it out of his owne manuscript works in the Library of Merton Colledge in Oxford and upon their faithfull testimony which conclude in this maner Explicit Lectura c. that is Thus endeth the Lecture of the subtle Doctor in the University of Paris Iohn Duns borne in a certaine little village or hamlet within the Parish of Emildon called Dunston in the county of Northumberland pertaining to the house of the scholars of Merton Hall in Oxford On this shore forward there is nothing to be seene worth relation but the Holy Island whereof I will write in due place untill a man come to the mouth of Twede which parteth England and Scotland a great way asunder and is called the East limit and thereupon our Necham thus writeth insinuating that the hither part of Scotland was called pict-Pict-land Anglos à Pictis sejungit limite certo Flumen quod Tuedam pristina lingua vocat The river Twede a certaine bound Divides * Pict-land from English ground This river breaking forth at a number of Springs out of the mountaines of Scotland wandereth a great while with many a crooked winding in and out among the ranke-riders and borderers to give them no worse tearme whose manner is as one saith to try their right by the swords point But when hee is come hard to a village called Carram waxing a great deale bigger by reason of many waters fallen unto him hee begins to distinguish the Confines of the Kingdomes And when hee hath watered Werke a Castle often assaulted by the Scottish belonging in times past to the Rosses and now to the Graies who by feats of armes have wonne much honour hee is encreased more with the streame of Till a river that hath two names For at the head which is in the innermore part of this country it is called Bramish and upon it standeth Bramton a little village very obscure and almost of no reckoning from whence it goeth Northward by Bengeley which together with Brampton it selfe with Broundum Rodam which hath given name to a stock in this tract of good note Edelingham c. was in King Henry the third his time the Barony of Patricke Earle of Dunbar who also as we read in the book of Inquisitions was Inborow and Outborow betweene England and Scotland that is to say if I mistake it not he was to allow and observe in this part the ingresse and egresse of those that travailed too and fro betweene both Realmes For Englishmen in ancient time called in their language an Entry and fore Court or Gatehouse 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Higher somewhat standeth Chevelingham now called Chillingham hard by the river which like as Horton not farre distant from it had their Castles belonging to the Greies ever since that those two families of the Greies were conjoyned in one by marriage There lyeth neere unto it Wollover a Barony which King Henry the first gave to Robert Muschampe who bare Azure three Butterflies or Papilions Argent of whose race descended Robert who in Henry the third his reigne was reputed the mightiest Baron in these North parts But the inheritance was quickly dismembred and parted among the females one of whom was married unto the Earle of Stratherne in Scotland a second to Sir William de Huntercombe and a third to Odonell Ford. Then the river of Glen from out of the West augmenteth Till with his waters and nameth the vale that he runneth thorow Glendale Touching this little river Bede writeth thus Paulinus comming with the King and Queen into a Manour or house of the Kings called Ad-Gebrin at this day Yeverin abode with them 36. daies there emploied wholly in the catechizing and baptising during all which time he did nothing from morning but instruct the people resorting to him in the saving word of Christ and being thus instructed he baptised them to the forgivenesse of their sinnes in the river of Glen which was hard by This house was in the time of the succeeding Kings neglected and another made for it in a place called Melmin but at this day Melfeld Here within a little of Brum-ridge by Brumeford K. Athelstan fought a pitched field with Aulase the Dane Constantine K. of Scots and Eugenius or Owein Prince of Cumberland with so fortunate successe that this battaile was most famous farre
runneth out far and wide toward the West between the sea and Dunbritain Frith or Clyds-forth yet so indented and hollowed with nookes and creekes that here and there it is drawne into a narrow roome and then againe in the verie utmost skirt it openeth and spreadeth it selfe broad at more libertie whereupon some have called it the CHERSOMESUS that is The Biland of the NOVANTES But at this day their countrey containeth Galloway Carick Kyle and Cunningham Galloway in the Latine Writers of the middle time Gaelwallia and Gallovidia so called of the Irish who in times past dwelt there and terme themselves short in their owne language Gael is a countrey rising up everie where with bills that are better for feeding of cattell than bearing of corne the inhabitants practice fishing as well within the sea lying round about them as in little rivers and the Loches or meeres in everie place standing full of water at the foot of the hills out of which in September they take in Weeles and Weere-ners an incredible number of most sweet and favourite eeles whereby the make no lesse gain than others do by their little nagges which for being well limmed fast knit and strongly made for to endure travaile are much in request and bought from hence Among these the first place that offereth itselfe by the river DEA mentioned in Prolomee which keeping the name still full and whole they call d ee is Kircoubright the most commodious port of this coast the second Stewartie of Scotland which belongeth also to the Maxwels then Cardines a sort set upon a craggie and high rocke by the river Fleet and fensed with strong walls Neere unto it the river Ken corruptly read in Ptolomee IENA runneth into the sea after it is Wigton an haven towne with a narrow entrance unto it between the two rivers Bluidnoo and Crea which also is counted a Sheriffdome over which Agnew is Sheriffe In times past it had for Earle Archibald Douglasse renowned in the French warre and at this day by the favour of King James the sixth John Lord Fleming who deriveth his pedegree from the ancient Earles of Wigton Neere unto this Ptolomee placed the Citie LEUCOPIBIA which I know not to say truth where to seeke Yet the place requireth that it should be that Episcopall seat of Ninian which Bede calleth Candida Casa and the English and Scottish in the verie same sense whit-berne what say you then if Ptolomee after his manner translated that name in Greek 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is white-houses in stead whereof the Transcribers have thrust upon us Leucopibia which the Britans tearmed Candida Casa In this place Ninia or Ninian the Britan an holy man the first that instructed the South-Picts in Christian saith in the reigne of the Emperour Theodofius the younger had his seat and built a Church consecrated to the memorie of Saint Martin after a manner unusuall among the Britans as Bede saith who wrote that the English in his time held this country and when the number of the faithfull Christians multiplied an Episcopall See was erected at this Candida Casa A little higher there is a Bi-land having the sea insinuating it selfe on both sides with two Bayes that by a narrow neck it is adjoined to the firme land and this is properly called CHERSONESUS and PROMONTORIUM NOVANTUM commonly the Mull of Galloway Beyond this Northward there is a Bay taking a great compasse and full of Ilands into which very many rivers on everie side doe out-lade themselves But first of all from the verie cape or top of the Promontarie is ABRAVANUS which being set little out of his own place is so called of Ptolomee for Aber-Ruanus that is The mouth of Ruan For at this day that river is named Rian and the lake out of which it floweth Logh-Rian exceeding full of Herrings and Stone-fishes This Galloway had in times past Princes and Lords over it of whom the first recorded in Chronicles was Fergus in the reigne of Henrie the first King of England who gave for his Armes A Lion rampant Arg crowned Or in a shield Azur who after many troubles that he had stirred was driven to this exigent by King Malcolm that he gave his sonne Ucthred to the King for an hostage and himselfe wearie of this world tooke the habit of a Chanon at Holy Rood house in Edenburgh As for Ucthred Gilbert his younger brother tooke him prisoner in battaile and when hee had cut out his tongue and plucked his eyes forth of his head he cruelly bereaved him both of life and inheritance But within some few yeeres when Gilbert was dead Ucthreds sonne recovered his fathers inheritance who of a sister of William Morvill Constable of Scotland begat Alan Lord of Galloway and Constable of Scotland This Alan by Margaret the eldest daughter of David Earle of Huntingdon had Dervolgilda wife to Iohn Balliol and the mother of John Balliol King of Scotland who contended with Robert Brus for the Kingdome of Scotland and by a former wife as it seemeth hee had Helen married to Roger Quincy Earle of Winchester who thereby was Constable of Scotland like as William Ferrars of Groby the Nephew of the said Roger by a daughter and one of the heires But these Englishmen soone lost their inheritance in Scotland as also the dignitie of Constable which the Comnins Earles of Bucquan descended likewise from a daughter of Roger Quincie obtained until it was translated unto the Earls of Arroll But the title of the Lords of Galloway fell afterward to the family of the Douglasses CARRICTA CARRICT NOw followeth Carrict upon Dunbritain Frith faire to be seene with fresh pastures supplyed both by land and sea with commodities abundantly In this province Ptolomee placed RERIGONIUM a Creeke and RERIGONIUM a Towne For which BERIGONIUM is read in a verie ancient copie of Ptolomee printed at Rome in the yeere 1480. so that wee cannot but verily thinke it was that which now is called Bargeney A Lord it hath out of the family of the Kennedies which came forth of Ireland in the reigne of Robert Brus and is in this tract of high birth spread into many branches and of great power The chiefe of which linage is Earle of Cassile for this is the name of a Castle wherein he dwelleth by the river Dun upon the banke whereof he hath also another Castle named Dunnur and he is the hereditarie Bailiffe of this Countrey For this Carrict together with Kyle and Cunningham are counted the three Baillerries of Scotland because they that governe these with an ordinarie power and jurisdiction are called Ballives by a tearme that came up in the middle times and among the Greeks Sicilians and Frenchmen signifieth a Conservatour or Protector But in the age aforegoing Carrict had Earles for to say nothing of Gilberts of Galloway sonne unto whom King William gave all Carrict to bee possessed for
was Robert Boide whose wife and Earldome together when Boide was banished the realme James L. Hamilton as I said erewhile obtained and his posteritie enjoyed the same Earldome saving that of late Sir James Steward appointed guardian to James Hamilton Earle of Arran when hee was so defective in understanding that he could not manage his estate tooke this title in the right of being guardian Neere unto this standeth Buthe so called of a little religious Cell which Brendanus founded for so is a little Cell tearmed in the Scottish tongue In this Iland is Rothsay Castle which giveth the title of Dukedome unto the King of Scots eldest sonne who is borne Prince of Scotland Duke of Rothsay and Seneschall of Scotland since time that King Robert the third invested Robert his eldest sonne Duke of Rothsay the first in Scotland that ever was created Duke With which title also Queene Marie honoured Henrie Lord Darly before she tooke him to be her husband Then shew themselves Hellan sometimes called Hellan Leneow that it as Iohn Fordon interpreteth it The Saints Ilands and Hellan Tinoc that is The Swines Iland with a great number of other Ilands of lesse note and reckoning in the same Forth DAMNII CLUYDSDALE c. BEyond the NOVANTES more inward by the river Glotta or Cluyd and farther still even to the verie East sea dwelt in times past the DAMNII in those countries if I have any judgement for in things so farre remote from our remembrance and in so thick a mist of obscuritie who can speake of certaintie which are now callled Cluydsdale the Baronie of Renfraw Lennox Strivelinshire Menteth and Fife Neere unto the head of Cluyd in Crawford Moore among the wilde wasts certaine husbandmen of the countrey after great store of violent raine happened to finde certaine small peeces like scrapings of gold which have this long time given great hope of much riches but most of all in our dayes since that Sir Beamis Bulmer undertooke with great endevour to finde out here a Mine of gold Certes there is Azur gotten forth everie day without any paines in manner at all Now the Castle of Crawford together with the title of the Earle of Crawford was by Robert the second King of Scots given unto Sir James Lindesey who by a single combate performed with Baron Welles an Englishman won high commendation for his valour These Lindeseyes have deserved passing well of their country and are of ancient nobilitie ever since that Sir William Lindesey married one of the heires of William of Lancaster Lord of Kandale in England whose neice in the third degree of lineall descent was married into the most honourable family of Coucy in France Cluyd after hee hath from his spring head with much struggling got out Northward by Baron Somervils house receiveth unto him from out of the West the river Duglasse or Douglasse so called of a blackish or greenish water that it hath which river communicateth his name both to have the vale through which hee runneth called Douglasdale and also to Douglasse castle therein which name that castle likewise hath imparted unto the family of the Douglasses Which I assure you is very ancient but most famous ever since that Sir James Douglasse stucke verie close at all times as a most fast friend unto King Robert Brus and was readie alwaies with singular courage resolution and wisdome to assist him claiming the kingdome in most troublesome and dangerous times and whom the said King Robert charged at his death to carrie his heart to Jerusalem that hee might bee discharged of his vow made to goe to the Holy-land In memoriall whereof the Douglasses have inserted in their Coat of Armes a mans heart From which time this family grew up to that power and greatnesse and namely after that King David the second had created William Earle of Douglasse that they after a sort awed the Kings themselves For at one time well neere there were sixe Earles of them namely of this Douglasse of Angus of Ormund of Wigton of Murray and of Morton among whom the Earle of Wigton through his martiall prowesse and desert obtained at the hands of Charles the seventh king of France the title of Duke of Tourain and left the same to two Earles of Douglasse his heires after him Above the confluence of Douglasse and Cluyd is Lanric the hereditarie Sheriffdom of the Hamiltons who for their name are beholden unto Hamilton castle which standeth somewhat higher upon Cluyds banke in a fruitfull and passing pleasant place but they referre their originall as they have a tradition to a certaine Englishman surnamed Hampton who having taken part with Robert Brus received from him faire lands in this tract Much increase of their wealth and estate came by the bounteous hand of King James the third who bestowed in marriage upon Sir James Hamilton his own eldest sister whom he had taken perforce from the Lord Boide her husband together with the Earledome of Arran but of honours and dignities by the States of the kingdome who after the death of King James the fifth ordained James Hamilton grandsonne to the former James Regent of Scotland whom Henrie also the second King of France advanced to be Duke of Chasteau Herald in Poictou as also by King James the sixth who honoured his son John with the title of Marquesse of Hamilton which honourable title was then first brought into Scotland The river Glotta or Cluyd runneth from Hamilton by Bothwell which glorieth in the Earles thereof namely John Ramsey whose greatnesse with King James the third was excessive but pernicious both to himselfe and the King and the Hepburns whom I have already spoken of so streight forward with a readie stream through Glascow in ancient times past a Bishops seat but discontinued a great while untill that King William restored it up againe but now it is an Archbishops See and an Universitie which Bishop Turnbull after hee had in a pious and religious intent built a colledge in the yeere 1554. first founded This Glascow is the most famous town of merchandise in this tract for pleasant site and apple trees and other like fruit trees much commended having also a verie faire bridge supported with eight arches Of which towne I. Ionstoun thus versified Non te Pontificum luxus non Insula tantùm Ornavit diri quae tibi caussa mali Glottiadae quantùm decorant te Glascua Musae Quae celsum attollunt clara sub astra caput GLOTTA decus rerum piscosis nobilis undis Finitimi recreat jugera laeta soli Ast Glottae decus vicinis gloria terris Glascua foe cundat flumine cuncta suo The sumptuous port of Bishops great hath not adorn'd thee so Nor mitre rich that hath beene cause of thine accursed woe As Cluyds Muses grace thee now O Glascow towne for why They make thee beare thy head aloft up to the starrie skie Cluyd the beautie of the
world for fishfull streame renown'd Refresheth all the neighbour fields that lye about it round But Glascow beautie is to Cluyd and grace to countries nye And by the streames that flow from thence all places fructifie Along the hithermore banke of Cluid yeth the Baronie of Reinfraw so called of the principall towne which may seeme to bee RANDVARA in Ptolomee by the river Cathcart that hath the Baron of Cathcart dwelling upon it carrying the same surname and of ancient nobilitie neere unto which for this little province can shew a goodly breed of nobilitie there border Cruikston the seat in times past of the Lords of Darley from whom by right of marriage it came to the Earles of Lennox whence Henrie the Father of King James the sixth was called Lord Darly Halkead the habitation of the Barons of Ros descended originally from English blood as who fetch their pedegree from that Robert Ros of Warke who long since left England and came under the alleageance of the King of Scots Pasley sometimes a famous Monasterie founded by Alexander the second of that name high Steward of Scotland which for a gorgeous Church and rich furniture was inferiour to few but now by the beneficiall favour of King James the sixth it yeeldeth both dwelling place and title of Baron to Lord Claud Hamilton a younger sonne of Duke Chasteu Herald and Sempill the Lord whereof Baron Sempill by ancient right is Sheriffe of this Baronie But the title of Baron of Reinfraw by a peculiar priviledge doth appertaine unto the Prince of Scotland LENNOX ALong the other banke of Cluyd above Glascow runneth forth Levinia or LENNOX Northward among a number of hills close couched one by another having that name of the river Levin which Ptolomee calleth LELANONIUS and runneth into Cluyd out of Logh Lomund which spreadeth it selfe here under the mountaines twenty miles long and eight miles broad passing well stored with varietie of fish but most especially with a peculiar fish that is to be found no where else they call it Pollac as also with Ilands concerning which manie fables have beene forged and those ri●e among the common people As touching an Iland here that floateth and waveth too and fro I list not to make question thereof For what should let but that a lighter bodie and spongeous withall in manner of a pumice stone may swimme above the water and Plinie writeth how in the Lake Vadimon there be Ilands full of grasse and covered over with rushes and reeds that float up and downe But I leave it unto them that dwell neerer unto this place and better know the nature of this Lake whether this old Distichon of our Necham be true or no Ditatur fluviis Albania saxea ligna Dat Lomund multa frigiditate potens With rivers Scotland is enrich'd and Lomund there a Lake So cold of nature is that stickes it quickly stones doth make Round about the edge of this Lake there bee fishers cottages but nothing else memorable unlesse it be Kilmoronoc a proper fine house of the Earles of Cassiles on the East side of it which hath a most pleasant prospect into the said Lake But at the confluence where Levin emptieth it selfe out of the Lake into Cluyd standeth the old Citie called Al-Cluyd Bede noteth that it signified in whose language I know not as much as The rocke Cluyd True it is that Ar-Cluyd signifieth in the British tongue upon Cluyd or upon the rocke and Cluyd in ancient English sounded the same that a Rocke The succeeding posteritie called this place Dunbritton that is The Britans towne and corruptly by a certaine transposition of letters Dunbarton because the Britans held it longest against the Scots Picts and Saxons For it is the strongest of all the castles in Scotland by naturall situation towring upon a rough craggie and two-headed rocke at the verie meeting of the rivers in a greene plaine In one of the tops or heads abovesaid there standeth up a loftie watch-tower or Keep on the other which is the lower there are sundrie strong bulwarks Betweene these two tops on the North side it hath one onely ascent by which hardly one by one can passe up and that with a labour by grees or steps cut out aslope travers the rocke In steed of ditches on the West side serveth the river Levin on the South Cluyd and on the East a boggie flat which at everie tide is wholly covered over with waters and on the North side the verie upright steepenesse of the place is a most sufficient defence Certain remaines of the Britans presuming of the naturall strength of this place and their owne manhood who as Gildas writeth gat themselves a place of refuge in high mountaines and hills steep and naturally fensed as it were with rampires and ditches in most thick woods and forrests in rockes also of the sea stood out and defended themselves here after the Romans departure for three hundred yeeres in the midst of their enemies For in Bedes time as himself writeth it was the best fortified citie of the Britans But in the yeere 756. Eadbert King of Northumberland and Oeng King of the Picts with their joint forces enclosed it round about by siege and brought it to such a desperate extremitie that it was rendred unto them by composition Of this place the territorie round about it is called the Sherifdome of Dunbarton and hath had the Earles of Lennox this long time for their Sheriffes by birth-right and inheritance As touching the Earles of Lennox themselves to omit those of more ancient and obscure times there was one Duncane Earle of Lennox in the reigne of Robert the second who died and left none but daughters behinde him Of whom one was married to Alan Steward descended from Robert a younger sonne of Walter the second of that name High Steward of Scotland and brother likewise to Alexander Steward the second from whom the noblest and royall race of Scotland hath beene propagated This surname Steward was given unto that most noble family in regard of the honourable office of the Stewardshippe of the kingdome as who had the charge of the Kings revenues The said Alan had issue John Earle of Lennox and Robert Captain of that companie of Scottishmen at Armes which Charles the sixth K. of France first instituted in lieu of some recompence unto the Scottish nation which by their valour had deserved passing well of the kingdom of France who also by the same Prince for his vertues sake was endowed with the Seigniorie of Aubigny in Auvergne John had a sonne named Matthew Earle of Lennox who wedded the daughter of James Hamilton by Marion daughter to King James the second on whom he begat John Earle of Lennox hee taking armes to deliver King James the fifth out of the hands of the Douglasses and the Hamiltons was slaine by the Earle of Arran his Unkle on the mothers side This John was
made a turfe wall rearing it not so much with stone as with turfes as having no canning Artificer for so great a piece of worke and the same to no use betweene two Friths or Armes of the sea for many miles in length that where the fense of water was wanting there by the helpe of a wall they might defend their borders from the invasion of enemies of which worke that is to say a very broad and high wall a man may see to this day most certaine and evident remaines This wall began as the Scots in these dayes give out at the river Aven that goeth into Edenborrough Forth and having passed over the riveret Carron reacheth unto Dunbritton But Bede as I said erewhile affirmeth that it beginneth in a place called Pen vaell that is in the Picts language as much as The head of the wall in the Britans tongue Pen-Gual in English Penwalton in Scottish Cevall all which names no doubt are derived from Vallum in Latine and he saith That place is almost two miles from Abereurvig or Abercurving And it endeth as the common sort thinke at Kirk-Patricke the native soile as some writeth of Saint Patrick the Irish-mens Apostle neere unto Cluyd according to Bede at Alcluid after Ninius at the Citie Pen Alcloyt which may seeme all one Now this wall is commonly called Grahams dyke either of Graham a warlike Scot whose valour was especially seene when the breach was made through it or else of the hill Grampie at the foot whereof it stood The author of Rota Temporum calleth it the wall of Aber-corneth that is of the mouth of the river Corneth where in Bedes time there was a famous monasterie standing as he hath recorded upon English ground but neere unto that frith or arme of the sea which in those daies severed the lands of the English and the Picts Hard by this wall of turfe what way as the river Carron crosseth this Sheriffdome of Sterling toward the left hand are seene two mounts cast up by mans hand which they call Duni pacis that is Knolles of peace and almost two miles lower there is an ancient round building foure and twentie cubits high and thirteene broad open in the top framed of rough stone without lime having the upper part of everie stone so tenanted into the nether as that the whole worke still rising narrow by a mutuall interlacing and clasping upholdeth it selfe Some call this the Temple of God TERMINUS others Arthurs-Oven who father everie stately and sumptuous thing upon Arthur Others againe Iulius Hoff and suppose it to have been built by Iulius Caesar. But I would think rather that Iulius Agricola built it who fortified this frontier part were it not that Ninius hath already enformed us that it was erected by Carausius for a triumphall Arch. For hee as Ninius writeth built upon the banke of Caron a round house of polished stone erecting a Triumphall Arch in memoriall of a victorie hee ree-dified also the wall and strengthened it with seven Castles In the middest space betweene Duni pacis and this building on the righthand-banke of Carron there is yet to be discerned a confused face of a little ancient Citie where the vulgar people beleeveth there was sometimes a road for ships who call it Camelot by a name that is rife in King Arthurs booke and they contend but all in vaine to have it that Camalodunum which Tacitus mentioneth But it would seeme rather by the name of the river Carron running underneath to have beene CORTA DAMNIORUM which Ptolomee mentioneth in this tract And now take with you that which George Buchanan that excellent Poet wrote of the limit of the Roman Empire at Carron Roma securigeris praetendit maenia Scotis Hîc spe progressus positâ Carronis ad undam Terminus Ausonii signat divertia regni 'Gainst warlike Scots with axes arm'd a mightie frontier wall The Romans rais'd and limit there which TERMINUS they call Neere Carron streame now past all hope more British ground to gaine Markes out the Roman Empires end whence they to turne were faine In this territorie of Sterling on the East side there sheweth it selfe Castle Callendar belonging to the Barons of Levingston and the family of the Barons Fleming dwelleth hard by at Cumbernald which they received at the hands of King Robert Brus for their service valiantly faithfully performed in defence of their country whereby also they attained unto the hereditarie honour to be Chamberlaines of Scotland And even very lately the favour of King James the Sixth hath honoured this house with the title of Earle what time as he created I. Baron Fleming Earle of Wigton In a place neere adjoining standeth Elpheingston which likewise hath his Barons advanced to that dignitie by King James the fourth And where Forth full of his windings and crooked crankes runneth downe with a rolling pace and hath a bridge over him standeth Sterlin commonly called Strivelin and Sterlin Burrough where on the very brow of a steepe rocke there is mounted on high a passing strong Castle of the Kings which King James the sixth hath beautified with new buildings and whereof this long time the Lords of Ereskin have been Captaines unto whom the charge and tuition of the Princes of Scotland during their minoritie hath been otherwhiles committed Whereas some there be that would have the good and lawfull money of England which is called Sterling money to take the name from hence they are much deceived for that denomination came from the Germans of their Easterly dwelling termed by Englishmen Esterlings whom King John of England first sent for to reduce the silver to the due finenesse and puritie and such monies in ancient writing are ever more found by the name of Esterling But concerning Sterlin towne the verses that I. Jonston hath made shall supply all the rest Regia sublimis celsa despectat ab arce Pendula sub biferis maenia structa jugis Regum augusta parens Regum nutricula natis Hinc sibi Regifico nomine tota placet Hospita sed cuivis quovis sub nomine amicus Sive es seu non es hospes an hostis item Pro lucro cedit damnum Discordia tristis Heu quoties procerum sanguine tinxit humum Hoc uno infelix at felix coetera nusquam Laetior aut caelifrons geniusve soli A regall palace stately set beholds from mount aloft Towne wall built hanging on the side of hill with double cost The sacred mother unto Kings of Kings babes eke the nource Hence is it that she prides her selfe in Kings names and no worse But entertaineth every one by name it skils not what A friend or foe friend guest or no she reckneth nought of that In steed of gaine this turnes to losse Besides how oft alas Hath discord foule with Nobles blood stain'd hence both ground and grasse In this alone unhappie she else not nor shall ye finde
way to convey their small vessels over it by land Which I hope a man may sooner beleeve than that the Argonauts laid their great ship Argos upon their shoulders and so carried it along with them five hundred miles from Aemonia unto the shores of Thessalia LORN SOmewhat higher toward the North lyeth LORN bearing the best kinde of barley in great plentie and divided with Leaue a vast and huge lake by which standeth Berogomum a castle in which sometime was kept the Court of Justice or Session and not farre from it Dunstafag that is Stephens Mount the Kings house in times past above which Logh Aber a Lake insinuating it selfe from out of the Westerne sea windeth it selfe so farre within land that it had conflowed together with Nesse another Lake running into the East sea but that certaine mountaines betweene kept them with a verie little partition asunder The chiefest place of name in this tract is Tarbar in Logh Kinkeran where King James the fourth ordained a Justice and Sheriffe to administer justice unto the Inhabitants of the out Islands These countries and those beyond them in the yeere of our Lords Incarnation 655. the Picts held whom Bede calleth the Northern Picts where hee reporteth that in the said yeere Columbane a Priest and Abbat famous for his Monkish profession and life came out of Ireland into Britaine to instruct these in Christian religion that by meanes of the high rough ridges of the mountaines were sequestred from the Southerne countries of the Picts and that they in lieu of a reward allowed unto him the Iland Hii over against them now called I-Comb-Kill of which more in place convenient The Lords of Lorna in the age aforegoing were the Stewarts but now by reason of a female their heire the Earles of Argile who use this title in their honourable stile BRAID ALBIN or ALBANY MOre inwardly where the uninhabitable loftie and rugged ridges of the Mountaine Grampius begin a little to slope and settle downeward is seated BRAID-ALBIN that is The highest part of Scotland for they that are the true and right Scots indeed call Scotland in their mother tongue Albin like as that part where it mounteth up highest Drum Albin that is the Ridge of Scotland But in an old booke it is read Brun Albin where wee finde this written Fergus filius Eric c. that is Fergus the sonne of Eric was the first of the seed or line of Chonare that entred upon the Kingdome of Albanie from Brun-Albain unto the Irish sea and Inch-Gall And after him the Kings descended from the seed or race of Fergus reigned in Brun-Albain or Brunhere unto Alpin the sonne of Eochall But this Albanie is better knowne for the Dukes thereof than for any good gifts that the soile yeeldeth The first Duke of Albanie that I read of was Robert Earle of Fife whom his brother King Robert the third of that name advanced to that honour yet he ungratefull person that he was pricked on with the spirit of ambition famished to death his sonne David that was heire to the crown But the punishment due for this wicked fact which himselfe by the long-sufferance of God felt not his son Mordac the second Duke of Albanie suffered most grievously being condemned for treason and beheaded when hee had seene his two sonnes the day before executed in the same manner The third Duke of Albanie was Alexander second sonne to King James the second who being Regent of the Kingdome Earle of March Marr and Garioth Lord of Annandale and of Man was by his own brother King James the third outlawed and after hee had beene turmoiled with many troubles in the end as hee stood by to behold a Justs and Tourneament in Paris chanced to bee wounded with a peece of a shattered launce and so died His sonne John the fourth Duke of Albanie Regent likewise and made Tutour to King James the fifth taking contentment in the pleasant delights of the French Court after hee had wedded there the daughter and one of the heires of John Earle of Auverne and Lauragveze died there without issue Whom in a respective reverence to the bloud royall of the Scots Francis the first King of France gave thus much honour unto as that hee allowed him place betweene the Archbishop of Langres and the Duke of Alenson Peeres of France After his death there was no Duke of Albanie untill that Queene Marie in our memorie conferred this title upon Henrie Lord Darly whom within some few daies after shee made her husband like as King James the sixth granted the same unto his owne second sonne Charles being an Infant who is now Duke of Yorke There inhabite these regions a kinde of people rude warlike readie to fight querulous and mischievous they bee commonly tearmed High-landmen who being in deed the right progenie of the ancient Scots speak Irish call themselves Albinich their bodies be firmely made and well compact able withall and strong nimble of foot high minded inbread and nuzzeled in warlike exercises or robberies rather and upon a deadly feud and hatred most forward and desperate to take revenge They goe attired Irish-like in stript or streaked mantles of divers colours wearing thicke and long glibbes of haire living by hunting fishing fowling and stealing In the warre their armour is an head-peece or Morion of iron and an habergeon or coat of maile their weapons bee bowes barbed or hooked arrowes and broad backe-swords and being divided by certaine families or kinreds which they terme Clannes they commit such cruell outrages what with robbing spoiling and killing that their savage crueltie hath forced a law to bee enacted whereby it is lawfull That if any person out of any one Clanne or kinred of theirs hath trespassed ought and done harme whosoever of that Clanne or linage chance to bee taken he shall either make amends for the harmes or else suffer death for it when as the whole Clan commonly beareth feud for any hurt received by any one member thereof by execution of lawes order of justice or otherwise PERTHIA OR PERTH Sheriffdome OUt of the very bosome of Mountaines of Albany Tau the greatest river of all Scotland issueth and first runneth amaine through the fields untill that spreading broad into a lake full of Islands hee restraineth and keepeth in his course Then gathering himselfe narrow within his bankes into a channell and watering Perth a large plentifull and rich countrey he taketh in unto him Amund a small river comming out of Athol This Athol that I may digresse a little out of my way is infamous for witches and wicked women the countrey otherwise fertile enough hath vallies bespread with forrests namely where that WOOD CALEDONIA dreadfull to see to for the sundrie turnings and windings in and out therein for the hideous horrour of dark shades for the burrowes and dennes of wild bulls with thicke manes whereof I made mention heretofore
time and from out of them three hundred yeeres agoe and thirtie Robert Stewart by Marjorie his mother daughter to King Robert Brus obtained the Kingdome of Scotland and now lately James Stewart of that name the sixth King of Scots by Margaret his great grandmother daughter to King Henrie the seventh the divine power of that most high and almightie Ruler of the world so disposing is ascended with the generall applause of all nations to the height of Monarchicall majestie over all Britaine and the Isles adjacent ROSSIA THe Province ROSSE so called by an old Scottish word which some interpret to be a Promontorie others a Biland was inhabited by the people named CANTAE which terme in effect implieth as much in the time of Ptolomee This extendeth it selfe so wide and large that it reacheth from the one sea to the other What way it beareth upon the Vergivian or Western Ocean by reason of huge swelling mountaines advancing their heads aloft and many woods among them it is full of stagges roe buckes fallow Deere and wilde foule but where it butteth upon the German sea it is more lovely bedect with corne fields and pastures and withall much more civill In the very first entrance into it Ardmanoch no small territorie whereof the second sonnes of the Kings of Scotland beare the title riseth up with high mountaines that are most trustie preservers of snow As touching their height some have reported unto me strange wonders and yet the ancient Geometers have written that neither the depth of sea nor height of hills exceed by the plumbe line ten stadia that is one mile and a quarter Which notwithstanding they that have beheld Tenariffe amongst the Canarie Ilands which is fifteene leagues high and sailed withall the Ocean neere unto them will in no wise admit for truth In this part standeth Lovet Castle and the Baronie of the worthy family of the Frasers whom for their singular good service for the Scottish kingdome King James the second accepted into the ranke of Barons and whom the Clan-Ranalds a most bloodie generation in a quarrell and braule between them had wholly destroied every mothers sonne but that by the providence of God fourescore of the principall persons of this family left their wives at home all great with child who being delivered of so many sonnes renewed the house and multiplied the name againe But at Nesse mouth there flourished sometimes Chanonrie so called of a rich Colledge of Chanons whiles the Ecclesiasticall state stood in prosperitie in which there is erected a See for the Bishop of Rosse Hard by is placed Cromartie where Urqhuart a Gentleman of noble birth by hereditarie right from his ancestours ministreth justice as Sheriffe to this Sheriffdome and this is so commodious and safe an harbour for any fleet be it never so great that both Sailers and Geographers name it PORTUS-SALUTIS that is The Haven of safetie Above it is LITTUS ALTUM whereof Ptolomee maketh mention called now as it seemeth Tarbarth for there indeed the shore riseth to a great height enclosed on the one side with Cromer a most secure and safe haven and on the other with CELNIUS now Killian the river and thus much of the places toward the East Ocean Into the west sea the river LONGUS mentioned in Ptolomee at this day named Lough Longus runneth then the CERONES anciently dwelt where now is Assinshire a countrey much mangled with many inlets and armes of the sea in bosoming it selfe with manifold commodities As for the Earls of Rosse it is full of difficulty to set them down in order successively out of writers About foure hundred yeers past we read that Ferqhuard flourished enjoied this title But for default of issue male it came by a daughter to Walter Lesley who for his noble feats of armes courageously atchieved under Lewis the Emperour was worthily named The Noble Knight he begat Alexander Earle of Rosse and a daughter married unto Donald Lord of the Islands Hebrides This Alexander had issue one onely daughter who made over by her deed all her owne title and right unto Robert Duke of Albany whereat the said Donald of the Islands being highly enchafed and repining stiled himselfe in the reigne of James the third King of the Islands and Earle of Rosse having with fire and sword laied waste his native country far neere At length the said K. James the third by authoritie of Parliament in the yeere 1476. annexed the Earldome of Rosse to the crowne so as it might not be lawfull for his successours to alienate by any meanes from the crowne either the Earldome it selfe or any parcell thereof or by any device to grant the same unto any person save onely to the Kings second sonnes lawfully borne whence it is that Charles the Kings second sonne Duke of York at this day holdeth an enjoieth the title of Earle of Rosse SUTHERLAND BEyond Rosse Sutherland looketh toward the East Ocean a land more meet to breed cattell than to beare corne wherein there be hills of white marble a wonderfull thing in this so cold a climate but of no use almost considering excesse in building and that vain ostentation of riches is not yet reached to these remote regions Here is Dunrobin a castle of very great name the principall seat of the ancient Earles of Sutherland descended if I be not deceived out of the family of Murray Among whom one William under King Robert Brus is most famous who married the sister of the whole blood to K. David and had by her a son whom the said David declared heire apparant of the crown and compelled his Nobles to sweare unto him alleageance but he within a little after departed without issue and the Earldome in the end came by a daughter and heire hereditarily unto A. Gordon one of the line of the Earles of Huntly CATHANES HIgher lieth CATHANES butting full upon the said East sea bending inward with a number of creakes and compasses which the waves as it were indent In which dwelt in Ptolomees time the CATINI but written falsly in some copies CARINI among whom the selfe same Ptolomee placeth the river Ila which may seem to be the Wifle at this day The inhabitants of this province raised their greatest gaine and revenues by grazing and raising of cattell and by fishing The chiefe castle therein is called Girnego in which the Earls of Catnesse for the most part make their abode The Bishops sea is in Dornock a little meane town otherwise where also King James the fourth appointed the Sheriffe of Catnesse to reside or else at Wik as occasions should require for the administration of justice The Earles of Catnesse in ancient times were also Earles of the Orcades but at last they became distinct and by the eldest daughter of one Malise given in marriage to William Seincler the Kings Pantler his heires successively came to be Earls of Catnesse
Constans Constantius brake out into this exclamation In winter time a thing that never was done before nor ever will be done again ye trampled under your oares the swelling and raging billowes of the British Ocean The waves of the sea unknown in a manner before times unto us then trembled and quaked and the Britans were terrified at the sudden presence of the Emperor What will ye more the verie elements yeelded themselves as conquered unto your valerous vertues The famous learned man Julius Scaliger in his Poeticalls affirmeth that Caurus the North-west winde ariseth and bloweth out of this British sea and that against the opinion of Lucan who wrote thus Primus ab Oceano caput exeris Atlantaeo Caure movens aestus From Ocean call'd Atlantick Caur thou first Thy head dost shew making seas fell and curst Certes in Ireland he keeps foule work and plaies the tyrant and Caesar writeth that a great part of the yeere he stands in this coast But whereas some write that in this our sea ships were first devised used I am not disposed to beleeve them But Plinie witnesseth that the Britans used small wicker vessels covered over with hides which at this day they tearm Corraghs and with Plinie accordeth Lucan who versifieth in this wise Primùm cana salix madefacto vimine parvam Texitur in puppim caesóque induta juvenco Vectoris patiens tumidum super emicat amnem Sic Venetus stagnante Pado fusoque Britannus Navigat Oceano At first wet twigges of willow grey that long in soake had laine And covered over close with hide of Oxe or Bullocke slaine But wrought before unto the forme of little barke or boat Used to carrie passengers the swelling streames afloat Thus over Po that river large sailes the Venetian And thus the Britan maketh way upon the spacious Ocean Semblably Solinus Polyhistor In the sea between Britain and Ireland they saile in wicker bottomes which they cover round about with Oxe hides And how long soever as the course holdeth so long the sailers forbeare food As for the commodities which this sea affordeth the warmth whereby it comforteth and cherisheth the earth the vapours wherewith it nourisheth the aire and bedeweth the fields touching also the great varietie of fishes that it breedeth as Salmons which Bede calleth Isicios as Plinie Esox Plaice Pungers Cods Hadocks Whitings Herrings Basse Maccarell Mullets Turbits Seales or Sea-calves Rochets Soles Pilchards Raifish or Scale Thornback Oisters Lobsters Crab-fish and an infinite number of others whereof it maintaineth and feedeth innumerable skuls and beds it is not materiall to speake they are so well knowne Yet the pearles are not to bee overpassed in silence which King Jubas reporteth to be shaped round and to swim in the British sea by flockes or swarmes in manner of bees following their Captaine and Leader And Marcellinus when he had spoken of the Persian and Indian pearles which kind of gemme saith he we are not ignorant to be engendred and gathered in the creekes of the British sea although they bee not of that beautie and worth Which although they be accounted by Plinie small ones and ill coloured yet Suetonius writeth that Caesar made his voiage into Britaine in hope of them and that they were of such bignesse as he took the peise of some of them by hand and dedicated a brest-plate made of them unto Venus Genitrix which he also witnessed by a subscription Origen likewise as touching these pearles writeth thus Sea-pearles such as be most notable are found among the Indians but the best are bred in the Red sea In the next place are those pearles which are taken in the British Ocean but of a third sort and inferiour in goodness not to those first only but also to these of the second degree are they that be found in Bosphorus neere Scythia And after a few lines But that kind which they say is gotten in Britain for the superficiall colour verily somwhat resembleth a golden hew but cloudie it is and troubled and for the lustre with the dimmest Furthermore our Venerable Bede writing of the Shell-fishes of this our sea Among them saith hee there be Muscles wherein they find enclosed oftentimes the best pearle of all colours of purple violet and greene but especially of bright white There be cochles also in exceeding great abundance wherewith they die a scarlet colour the most beautifull red hew whereof no heat of sunne nor injurie of raine is ever able to make pale but the older it is the fairer it sheweth And Tertullian reproving the lavish expence and superfluitie in his time If ambitious pride saith he may be maintained from the British or Indian seas there is a kind of shell-fish more pleasant in taste I say not than the purple fish or oister but than the very scallop it selfe This sea which generally is called MARE BRITANNICUM and OCEANUS CALEDONIUS according to the divers situation of places hath sundry and distinct names Eastward where it hath Germanie opposite unto it they call it the GERMAN sea Northward it is tearmed the Hyberborean sea which ancient writers reported untruely to be dead dull and heavie for the oare and in that respect not raised with winds and Tacitus beleeved it was so belike because as he writeth the Lands and Mountaines be rare which minister cause and matter of tempests and for that a deep masse of continuat sea is more slowly stirred to work and rage On the West side it is named OCEANUS DEUCALEDONIUS and VERGIVIUS both South and West from Ireland but all the way that it runneth between Britain and Ireland the HIBERNICUS that is Irish sea and by Sea-men at this day S. Georges Chanel And ancient writers have recorded that it rageth all the yeer long with surging billowes and counter seas and never is at rest nor navigable unlesse it be in some few summer daies But Southward where it interfloweth France and Britain it is properly called the BRITISH sea and by the common mariners the Chanel by English sailers the SLEEVE and in the same sense Le Manche in French because it groweth narrow in manner of a sleeve And this name of the BRITISH sea extended as farre as to Spaine as writeth Pomponius Mela being himselfe also a Spaniard where he reporteth that the Pyrene Mountain runneth forth into the BRITISH OCEAN Moreover there be certain Ilands which as it were for a shew Nature hath be sprinkled along these seas fewer toward the East and South parts but Westward and Northward more in number For there by their thick standing together they do after a sort garnish the sea yea and depaint it as it were with their colours in most pleasant sort But for as much as Ireland farre excelleth all the rest in regard of the greatnesse thereof and frequencie of resort thereto it requireth by due right that it should first be treated of HIBERNIA IRELAND IN the Vergivian sea
which name is derived not à vergendo that is of bending towards as some are of opinion but of Mor-weridh for this name the Britans gave it or else of Farigi by which name the Irish men call it the most famous Iland HIBERNIA that is to say IRELAND encloseth the West side of Britain an Iland which in times past challenged the third place amongst all the Isles of the then knowne world For thus as touching Ilands writeth the ancient Geographer 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Of all Ilands for greatnesse the Indian TAPROBANE is prime and principall next after it BRITAINE and in a third degree another British Iland named HIBERNIA that is Ireland and thereupon Ptolomee called it LITTLE BRITAIN This Isle by Orpheus Aristotle and Claudian is named IERNA by Iuvenal Mela JUVERNA by Diodorus Siculus IRIS by Martian of Heraclea JOYEPNIA by Eustathius OYERNIA and BERNIA by the native inhabitants Erin by the Britans Yuerdon and of English men Ireland Whence these names have had their originall sundry and divers opinions have beene conceived from time to time as in a doubtfull matter Some derive Hibernia from Hiberno tempore that is from the Winter season others from Hiberus a Spaniard and some againe from the river Iberus the author of the booke entituled Eulogium from Duke Irnalph Postellus a fancifull man when he read Pomponius Mela publikely in Paris because hee would seeme to have a reach beyond other men fetcheth the originall thereof from the Hebrewes so that Irin should bee as much as Iurin that is the Jewes land The Iewes forsooth saith he being most wise Sages and learned Philosophers knowing by their learning that the Empire of the world should be setled in the strongest Angle which lieth West seized upon those parts and Ireland with the first The Syrians also and Tyrians to lay the foundation of their future Empire endevoured all they could to inhabite those Regions Pardon me I pray you if I dare not subscribe hereto no nor give my consent to that opinion most received as touching the Winter season aforesaid although I have read that in this Iland the aire upon every winde is cold and winterlike As for Hibernia Iuverna and Ouernia they came doubtlesse from IERNA spoken of by Orpheus and Aristotle and the same Ierna as also Iris Yuerdhon and Ireland from Erin the tearme that the inhabitants use From this Erin therefore a word proper unto the nation the originall must be deduced Here I with those great Philosophers 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is hold off and suspend my judgement neither know I what to divine and ground my conjecture upon unlesse peradventure that name may come from Hiere an Irish word which with them signifieth the West or a Western coast whence Erin may seeme to bee derived as one would say a Western countrey Of this opinion have I been a good while since induced thereto with my owne conceit and flattering conjecture both because it lieth furthest Westward of any region in all Europe as being no more than twelve degrees distant from the utmost West point as also for that the river running in the most remote West part of this Iland is in Ptolomee called IERNUS like as the Promontorie or Cape bearing out farthest West in Spaine from whence our Irish-men came is named by Strabo IERNE and as the next river unto it which also is most West of all the rivers in Spaine is called by Mela IERNA Moreover by reason of the Western situation Spaine is named Hesperia and that West Cape in Africk Hesperium cornu yea and even in Germanie these countries Westrich Westphalen c. have their denomination from that position and site so that it is no marvaile if Ireland were tearmed Erin of the Western situation Besides these names of Ireland which I have spoken of the Irish Bards or Poets have usually taken up in their ballads these tearmes Tirvolas Totidanan and Banno as the most ancient names of this Iland but upon what reason I wot not unlesse Banno were that Bannomanna which Plinie mentioneth out of Timaeus whiles his pen coasteth along the outmost sides and skirts of Europe and the shore of the Northren Ocean on the left hand from Scythia even as farre as Cadis in Spaine For what countrey that same Bannomanna should bee the Geographers have not yet found out But Biaun in Irish signifieth Sacred or Holy and verily Festus Av●enus calleth Ireland SACRAM INSULAM that is The holy Iland in that little booke intituled ORAE MARITIMAE that is The Sea coasts which he compiled out of most ancient Geographers namely Hecataeus of Miletum Hellanicus of Lesbos Philaeus of Athens Caryandaeus Pausymachus of Samos Damastus Euctemon and others But I will write downe his verses for when he had spoken of the Ilands Ostrymides thus he versifieth Ast hinc duobus in SACRAM sic insulam Dixêre prisci solibus cursus rati est Haec inter undas multum cespitem jacit Eamque latè gens Hibernorum colit Propinqua rursus insula Albionum patet But to the SACRED Isle for so They us'd to call it long agoe From hence a course who so desires Just two dayes sailing it requires Much turfe it casts the waves among And Irish dwell therein along Now very neere to it againe The Albions Isle is kenned plaine If that OGYGIA which Plutarch placed on the West side of our Britaine were not 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 but 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 not a vaine dreame but a matter in truth hee may seeme by that name plainly to point at Ireland although the reports that he so sadly telleth of it be meer poeticall fictions Milesian toies Neither can any man readily tell why they called it Ogygia unlesse haply of the antiquitie For the Grecians tearmed nothing by the name of Ogygia but that which was very ancient And Robert Constantine seemeth to have shot wide all the world over when he affirmeth that CERNE mentioned in Lycophron was our Ireland for Lycophron himselfe and Tzetzes that commenteth upon him doe place Cerne toward the sunne rising and all the best learned men thinke it to be Madagascar situated as it were in another world right under the Tropique of Capricorne right over against Aethiopia Thus much touching the names of Ireland yet so as we remember withall to take this by the way that in these later times it was called also SCOTIA that is Scotland by Isidor and Bede of the Scots who inhabited it and that thence the name of Scotland together with the Scots themselves came into Britaine But of this we have spoken alreadie once before and therefore have no cause to repeat here This Iland is stretched out from South to North not broader than it is long as Strabo hath recorded but shaped in forme of a lentile or an egge nor of twentie dayes sailing as Philemon in Ptolomee hath set it downe but according to
inhabited it before Noahs flood Then that Bartholanus a Scythian came hither about three hundred yeeres after the said Noahs flood and fought right doughtie battels with giants That many yeeres after Nemethus a Scythian arrived here and forthwith was cast out by the Giants After this that Dela with certaine Grecians seized upon this Island and soone after that Gaothel with Scota his wife daughter to Pharaoh King of Egypt landed here and nominated after his wives name the Island Scotia and according to his owne name the language Gaothela and that about the time of the Israelites departure out of Egypt And the British historie reporteth how some few ages after Hiberus and Hermion Ever and Erimon the Irish writers terme them the sonnes of Milesius King of Spaine by the sufferance of Gurguntius King of the Britans planted colonies in this countrey after it had beene dispeopled by a pestilence My purpose is not either to averre these reports for true nor yet to refute them In such things as these let Antiquitie bee pardonable and enjoy a prerogative Surely as I doubt not but that this Island became inhabited even of old time when as man-kinde was spred over all quarters of the world so it is evident that the first inhabitants thereof passed thither out of our Britaine For to say nothing of an infinite number of British words in the Irish tongue together with the ancient names which favour of a British originall the natures of the people and their fashions as Tacitus saith differ not much from Britain of all ancient writers it is called A British Iland Diodorus Siculus termed Irin a part of Britaine and Ptolomee named the same BRITANNIA PARVA that is little Britaine as you may see if you list to compare his Geographickes with his book of Great Construction And the Epitome of Strabo calleth the inhabitants in plaine words BRITANS the old Geographers also named it The Britans Iland yea and Festus Aveienus sheweth this out of Dionysius Afer when he treateth of British Ilands in these verses Eminus hic aliae gelidi prope flabra Aquilonis Exuperant undas vasta cacumina tollunt Hae numero geminae pingues sola cespitis ampli Conditur occidui quà Rheni gurgitis unda Dira Britannorum sustentant agmina terris Here other Islands neere unto the chilling North winds blast The waves of sea surmount aloofe and shew their mountaines vast In number twaine their soile is fat their ground both large and wide What way the Western Rhene his gulfe and waters deepe doth hide These Lands fierce Britan troups maintaine and thereon they abide Neither is there any other countrey out of which by reason of the vicinitie they might passe over more commodiously into Ireland than out of Britaine from whence there is the like passage thither in respect of the space of sea betweene as is out of France into Britaine But afterwards when the Romanes had enlarged their Empire every way many there were no doubt who out of Spaine Gaule and Britaine withdrew themselves hither that they might shake off that intolerable yoke of the Romans slaverie Neither do some otherwise understand these words of Tacitus Ireland being situate in the middest betweene Spaine and Britanie lying also very fitly for the French sea would aptly have united to the great use advantage of the one and the other the strongest members of the Empire together the landing places and ports whereof by entercourse of trafficke were better known than those of Britain And albeit Iulius Agricola also kept with him a pettie King or Prince of Ireland who was driven thence by occasion of civill dissention that hee might have the more advantageous opportunitie thereby to invade the Island which he thought would be subdued and held with a legion and a small power of aide forces and was perswaded withall that the same would availe much for the affaires of Britaine in case the Roman forces were planted everie where and hope of libertie banished as it were farre out of sight yet wee read not that the Romans gave any attempt that way Notwithstanding some are verily perswaded that they assaied the conquest of it and doe gather the same hardly out of this place of Iuvenal Arma quid ultra Littora Iuvernae promovimus modò captas Orcadas minimâ contentos nocte Britannos Why warred we past Irish coasts and the Orkneis lately wonne Beyond the Britans eke that have least night and longest Sunne Yet the Panegyricall oration pronounced before Constantius the Emperour implieth that Ireland was under his government Britaine saith he is so recovered that even those nations also which join upon the coasts of the same Island are become subject and obedient unto your command Also we find written in the Chronicles of later historians that Ireland together with Britain and Thule at the division of the Empire fell unto Constantine the sonne of Constantine the Great And that very fond fable of Caesarea Noahs Niece carrieth before it the name of Caesars so as that therein may seeme covertly couched the comming of some Caesar into Ireland Howbeit I can hardly perswade my selfe to beleeve that this countrey at any time became subject to the Romans But a blessed and happie turne had it beene for Ireland if it had at any time beene under their subjection surely it had then beene reduced from barbarisme to civilitie For wheresoever the Romans were victors they brought them whom they conquered to civilitie neither verily in any place else throughout Europe was there any civilitie learning and elegance but where they ruled And very inconsiderately also they may seeme to have neglected this Island For from hence to the plague and spoile of Britaine brake out most dangerous enemies which August●● seemeth to have foreseene when he tooke so small care of Britaine for the danger which hee presaged to hover and approach from the nations round about adjoyning But when the Roman Empire began now to decay the nation of the Scots or Scythians for in times past as Strabo writeth all people Westward were tearmed Celto-Scythae grew mightie in Ireland and began to be renowned Furthermore under the Emperours Honorius and Arcadius it was inhabited by the Scottish nations as Orosius hath written Whereupon Claudian living in the same age wrote thus Scotorum cumulos flevit glacialis Ierne Yce-frozen Ireland wept amaine To see the Scots on heaps lye slaine And in another place Totam cùm Scotus Hibernem Movit What time as Scots did make All Ireland armes to take For from hence it was that the Scots made their forcible invasions into Britaine and hither they were otherwhiles with great losses and overthrowes repulsed But whence they came into Ireland Ninnius a disciple of Elvodugus an author of good antiquitie shall enforme you by his own words who lived as himselfe witnesseth in the yeere 830. under Anaraugh King of Anglesey and Guineth or North-Wales For after he had related
times past placed the MENAPII That these Menapians came hither from the Menapii a nation in low Germany that dwelt by the sea coasts the name doth after a sort imply But whether that Carausius were of this or that nation who taking upon him the imperiall purple robe seized upon Britaine against the Emperour Dioclesian I leave to others For Aurelius Victor calleth him a Citizen of Menapia and the Citie Menapia is place by the Geographers not in those Low-countries of Germany but in Ireland In this county upon the river Barrow there flourished sometimes Rosse a great Citie well traded by merchants and peopled with inhabitants fensed with a wall of great compasse by Isabell daughter to the Earle Richard Strongbow and that is the only monument which now it sheweth For by reason of discord and home broiles betweene the Citizens and the religious orders it is a good while since brought in manner to nothing More East Duncannon a castle with a garrison standeth over the river so as that it is able to command the river that no ships should passe either to Waterford or to Rosse and therefore it was thought good policie to fortifie this place when the Spaniards hovered and gaped for Ireland in the yeere 1588. From thence at the very mouth of the river there runneth out a narrow necke of land which presenteth unto the sailers an high Turret erected by the Citizens of Rosse when they were in flourishing estate that they might more safely enter into the rivers mouth A little from hence standeth Tintern upon the shore with many winding creekes where William Mareschal Earle of Penbroch founded a notable Abbay and called it de Voto for that he had vowed to God to erect an Abbay when hee was tossed in a sore and dangerous tempest and being after shipwracke cast up a land in this place performed it here according to his vow This very Promontory Ptolomee calleth HIERON that is Holy and in the same signification I would make no doubt but the inhabitants also called it For the utmost towne thereof at which the Englishmen landed and set first foot in this Iland they named in their native language Banna which soundeth all one with Holy From this Holy point the shore turning full upon the East runneth forth along Northward over against which there lye flats and shallowes in the sea that indanger many a ship which the Mariners call The Grounds In this place Ptolomee setteth the river MODONA and at the mouth thereof the city MENAPIA which are so stript out of their names that I am out of all hope in so great darknesse to discover any twy-light of the truth But seeing there is one onely river that voideth it selfe in this place which cutteth this county as it were just in the mids and is now called Slane seeing also at the very mouth thereof where it maketh a Poole there is a towne by a German name called Weisford the head place of the whole county I may the more boldly conjecture that Slane was that MODONA and Weisford MENAPIA and so much the rather because this name is of a later date to wit a meere German and given unto it by those Germans whom the Irish tearme Oustmans This towne is for the bignesse inferiour to many but as memorable as any because it was the first in all Ireland that when Fitz-Stephen a most valiant Captaine assaulted it yeelded it selfe unto the protection of the English and became a Colonie of the English Whence this whole territorie is passing well peopled with English who to this very day use the ancient Englishmens apparell and their language yet so as that they have a certaine kinde of mungrell speech between English and Irish. Dermot who first drew the Englishmen over into Ireland granted this and the territorie lying to it unto Fitz-Stephen for ever who beganne a Burgh hard by at Carricke and albeit the place were strong by naturall situation yet hee helped it by art But when as the said Fitz-Stephen had surrendred up his right into the hands of King Henry the second he made it over to Richard Earle of Penbroch that he should hold it in Fee from him and the Kings of England as superiour Lords From whom by the Earles Mareschals the Valences of the Lusignian line in France and the Hastings it descended to the Greies Lords of Ruthin who commonly in ancient Charters are named Lords of Weisford although in the reigne of King Henry the sixth Iohn Talbot is once called in the Records Earle of Shrewsbury and of Weisford Touching this river take with you this verse such an one as it is of Nechams making Ditat Eniscortum flumen quod Slana vocatur Hunc cernit Weisford se sociare sibi The river which is called Slane enricheth Eniscort And this said river Weisford sees gladly with him to sort For Eniscourt a Burrough or incorporate Towne is seated upon it More inward by the same rivers side ye have Fernes known onely for the dignity of an Episcopall See in it which in old time the Giraldines fortified with a Castle Hard by but beyond the river Slane dwell the Cavenaghs Donels Montaghs O-Mores Irishmen of a stirring and tumultuous spirit and among them the Sinottes Roches and Peppards Englishmen On this side Slane the men of greatest name bee the Vicounts Mont-Garret of whom the first was Richard Butler a younger son of Pierce Earle of Ormond adorned with that title by Edward the sixth and many more of the same sirname the Devereuxes Staffords Chevers Whites Forlongs Fitz-Harris Browns Hores Haies Cods Maylers all of the English race and blood like as be most of the common people CAUCI THe CAUCI who were likewise a people inhabiting the sea coast of Germany seated themselves next unto the Menapii but not so farre distant a sunder as those in Germany Their country lying upon the sea was that which the O Tools and O Birns families of Irishry dwel in men fed and maintained by wickednesse and bloodshed impatient of rest and quietnesse and who presuming upon the strength of their holds and fastnesses carry an obstinate minde against all lawes and implacable hatred to English For the repressing of whose audacious outrage and to strengthen the authority of lawes there hath been serious consultation had by most prudent and politicke persons in the yeere 1578. that these small territories should be reduced into the forme of a county and set out they were into sixe Baronies within certain appointed limits which should make the county of Wicklo or Arcklo For a place this is of greatest name and the Earle of Ormonds castle who write themselves among other honourable titles in their stile Lords of Arcklo under which castle that river which Ptolomee calleth OVOCA falleth into the sea making a creeke and as Giraldus Cambrensis writeth The nature of this river is such that as well when the sea floweth as when it ebbeth in this
the Dukes of York and so to the Kings domain or Crowne for Peter de Genevile sonne to that Maud begat Ioan espoused to Roger Mortimer Earle of March and the other part by Margaret wife to John Lord Verdon and by his heires who were Constables of Ireland was devolved at length upon divers families in England as Furnivall Burghersh Crophul c. THE COUNTY OF LONGFORD UNto West Meath on the North side joyneth the County of LONGFORD reduced into this ranke of Countries a few yeeres since by the provident policy of Sir Henry Sidney Lord Deputy called before time Anale inhabited by a numerous Sept of the O-Pharols of which house there be two great men and Potentates one ruleth in the South part named O-Pharoll Boy that is The yellow the other in the North called O-Pharoll Ban that is The white And very few Englishmen are there among them and those planted there but of late Along the side of this County passeth Shannon the noblest river of all Ireland which as I have said runneth between Meth and Conaught Ptolomee nameth it SENUS Orosius SENA and some copies SACANA Giraldus Flumen Senense but the people dwelling there by call it Shanon that is as some expound it The ancient river He springeth out of Thern hils in the county Le Trim and forthwith cutting through the lands Southward one while overfloweth the bankes and enlargeth himselfe into open Pooles and other whiles drawes backe againe into narrow straights and after he hath run abroad into one or two Lakes gathering himselfe within his bankes valeth bonnet to MACOLICUM now called MALC as the most learned Geographer Gerard Mercator hath observed whereof Ptolomee hath made mention and then by and by is entertained by another broad Mere they call it Lough Regith the name and situation whereof doth after a sort imply that the City RIGIA which Ptolomee placeth there stood not farre from hence But when hee hath once gotten beyond this Poole and draweth himselfe to a narrower channell within the bankes there standeth hard upon him the towne Athlon of which I will write in place convenient From thence Shannon having gotten over the Water-fall at Killolo whereof I must speake anon being now able to beare the biggest ships that are in a divided channell as it were with two armes claspeth about the city Limirick whereof I have spoken already From hence Shannon passing on directly for threescore miles or thereabout in length bearing a great bredth and making many an Iland by the way speedeth himselfe Westward and in what place soever he becommeth shallow and affordeth fords at an ebbe or low water there were planted little forts with wards such was the carefull providence of our forefathers to restraine the inrodes of preytaking robbers And so at length he runneth and voideth out at an huge mouth into the West Ocean beyond Knoc Patric that is Patricks hill for so Necham termeth that place in these his verses of Shannon Fluminibus magnis laetatur Hibernia Sineus Inter Connatiam Momomiamque fluit Transit per muros Limirici Knoc Patric illum Oceani clausum sub ditione videt Ireland takes joy in rivers great and Shannon them among Betwixt Connaught and Munster both holds on his course along He runneth hard by Limrick wayes Knoc Patric then at last Within the gulfe of th' Ocean doth see him lodged fast CONNACHTIA OR CONAGHT THe fourth part of Ireland which beareth Westward closed in with the river Shannon the out-let of the Lake or Lough Erne which some call Trovis others Bana and with the maine Western sea is named by Giraldus Cambrensis Conachtia and Conacia in English Conaght and in Irish Conaughty In ancient times as we may see in Ptolomee it was inhabited by the GANGANI who are also named CONCANI AUTERI and NAGNATAE Those CONCANI or GANGANI like as the LUCENI their next neighbours that came from the Lucensii in Spaine may seeme by the affinity of name and also by the vicinity of place to have beene derived from the CONCANI in Spaine who in Strabo are according to the diversity of reading named CONIACI and CONISCI whom Silius testifieth in these verses following to have beene at the first Scythians and to have usually drunke horses blood a thing even of later daies nothing strange among the wild Irish. Et qui Massagetem monstrans feritate parentem Cornipedis fusa satiaris Concane vena And Concane though in savagenesse that now resembling still Thy parents old the Massagets of horse-blood drinkst thy ●●ll And beside him Horace Et letum equino sanguine Concanum And Concaine who thinks it so good To make his drinke of horses blood Unlesse a man would suppose this Irish name Conaughty to be compounded of CONCANI and NAGNATAE Well this Province as it is in some place fresh and fruitfull so by reason of certaine moist places yet covered over with grasse which of their softnesse they usually tearme Boghes like as all the Iland besides every where is dangerous and thicke set with many and those very shady woods As for the sea coast lying commodious as it doth with many baies creekes and navigable rivers after a sort it inviteth and provoketh inhabitants to navigation but the sweetnesse of inbred idlenesse doth so hang upon their lazie limbes that they had rather get their living from doore to doore than by their honest labours keepe themselves from beggery Conaught is at this day divided into these counties Twomond or Clare Galway Maio Slego Letrim and Roscoman The ancient CONCANI abovesaid held in old time the more Southerly part of this Conaught where now lye Twomond or Clare the county Galway Clan-Richards country and the Barony of Atterith TWOMOND OR THE COUNTIE CLARE TWomon or Twomond which Giraldus calleth Thuetmonia the Irish Twowoun that is The North-Mounster which although it lye beyond the river Shannon yet was counted in times past part of Mounster untill Sir Henry Sidney Lord Deputy laid it unto Conaught shooteth out into the sea with a very great Promontory growing by little and little thin and narrow On the East and South sides it is so enclosed with the winding course of the river Shannon which waxeth bigger and bigger like as on the West part with the open maine sea and on the North side confineth so close upon the county Galway that there is no comming unto it by land but through the Clan-Ricards territory This is a country wherein a man would wish for nothing more either from sea or soile were but the industry of the inhabitants correspondent to the rest which industry Sir Robert Muscegros an English Nobleman Richard Clare and Thomas Clare younger brethren of the stock of the Earles of Glocester unto whom King Edward the first had granted this country stirred up long since by building townes and castles and by alluring them to the fellowship of a civill conversation of whose name the chiefe towne Clare now the
Toam and the neighbour inhabitants repaire for Ecclesiasticall jurisdiction to the Bishop of Killaley in the Barony of Tir-Auley In this Maio if I deceive not my selfe Colman a Bishop of Ireland built as Bede writeth a Monastery for thirty men or thereabout of the English Nation trained in the profession of the Monasticall life whom he brought out of England into Ireland But heare what Bede saith Colman found a place in the Isle of Ireland meet for building of a Monastery named in the old Scottish tongue Magio And he bought a part of it which was not much of the Earle unto whose possession it belonged to found a Monastery therein but with this condition annexed unto the sale that the Monks restant there should pray unto the Lord for him also that permitted them to have the place Now when hee had straightwaies erected this Monastery with the helpe of the said Earle and all the neighbour inhabitants hee placed the Englishmen there leaving the Scots behinde in the Isle Bouind Which very Monastery is inhabited at this day by Englishmen for the same it is which now of a small one grown to be great is usually termed In Mago And having now this good while turned all to better orders it conteineth a notable covent of Monkes who being assembled there together out of the Province of England according to the example of the reverend fathers under Regularity and a Canonicall Abbat live in great continency and sincerity with the labour of their owne hands About the yeere of our Lord 1115. this monasterie was re-edified and flourished in King Johns time who by his Patent confirmed many farmes and faire lands unto it Neither verily is there any other place that I can finde memorable unlesse it be Logh-Mesk a good large and fishfull Lake in two small Islands whereof stand sure forts that belonged to the familie of Burke This county is not so famous for the townes therein as the Inhabitants who are either of the Irish race as O-Mayles Ioies and Mac-vadus or of the Scotish out of the Islands Hebrides and out of the sept of Donell whereupon they bee called Clan-Donells and Galloglasses and as it were doughty mercinary souldiors who fight with two edged axes and be armed with habergeons or coates of maile procured in times past to come hither by the rebels and endowed here with lands or else of English blood as the said Burkes Iordans descended from one Iordan of Excester Nangles of Castlough Prendergest of Clan-Moris But the most puissant be those Burkes who after a sort are beholden both for their first beginning and also for their glory unto William a younger brother of Walter de Burgo or Burk of Ulster This William highly renowned for his militarie prowesse being led away prisoner into Scotland and leaving his wife behind him for an hostage when he was restored to his owne home by his manhood recovered Conaught out of which in his absence all the English had been expelled by Phelim O Conor having slaine in the field the said Phelim O Conor Mac Dermond Tego and Kelly and was himselfe at last in revenge killed by Cormac Mac-Dermond His grandson Thomas by his son Edmund sirnamed Albanach because he was borne in Scotland when he saw the goodly and rich inheritance of his owne familie translated by a female unto Leonell Duke of Clarence tooke it to the heart and therefore raising a power of lewd lawlesse and desperate persons who will be never wanting in Ireland nor else where by force and wrong seized the Patrimony of the Earles of Ulster in this County into his owne hands and after the name of that Grandfather of his whose glorious fame and gracious authority was then fresh in remembrance called himselfe Mac-William that is the sonne of William And his posterity under that name and title usurped a tyrannie in these parts raging upon themselves other whiles with mutuall injuries and oppressing the poore people a long time with extorting pilling and spoyling insomuch as they left scarce one village or house in the Country unrazed and unrifled This powerfull violence of theirs Sir Richard Bingham principall Commissioner or Governour of Conaght a man resolute severe and valiant fit for such a fierce and fell Province thought not to bee endured For he well understood being prudent and politicke that these injust oppressions pollings and pillings were the principall causes of the rebellions of barbarousnesse and base beggery of Ireland yea and that they drew the people away from their due obedience and allegeance to their Prince so as that they would acknowledge no other soveraigne than their owne Lords and Captaines he therefore to establish what hee might the royall power and authority there and to overthrow this tyrannicall government of this Mac-William and of others getting head employed with all diligence his whole care and cogitations to the uttermost and albeit he had from time to time many imputations suggestions and complaints eagerly urged upon him both before Queene Elizabeth and also the Lord Deputy yet proceeded hee in his purpose Contrariwise those of the family of Burke their followers and dependants that refused to obey the lawes tooke armes and drew to band and side with them the Septs of the Clan-Donells Ioies and others who distrusted themselves and their owne power whom Bingham the Governour soone scattered and having forced their forts drave them into woods and lurking hooles untill the Lord Deputy taking pittie of them upon their humble supplication commanded by his Missives that they should bee received upon termes of peace But they who by warre had troubled the peace and knowing not how to lay downe warre for sweetnesse of peace were no sooner relieved and raised as it were from death but they tooke armes againe entred afresh into actuall rebellion drave booties every where and made foule uprores in all places crying out That they would set up their Mac-William or else send for one out of Spaine That they would not admit a Sheriffe nor yeeld obedience to lawes And herewith they closely procured the Scottish Ilanders from out of the Hebrides to come over for to aide them promising them faire lands and possessions whereupon the Lord Deputy commanded the Governour to represse and bridle this their excessive and malapert insolence He then immediately when they rejected all equall and indifferent conditions offered unto them assembled an army and pursued them so hotly through the woods and forests that after six or seven weeks being grievously hunger-bitten they most humbly submitted themselves At which very time the auxiliary forces of the Scots aforesaid came seeking through desert by-waies and untravelled out waies as closely as they could to come into the county of Maio but the Governour with continuall journies affronted them by night and day so neere and followed upon them so hard that in the end he intercepted them at Ardnary valiantly giving the charge put them to flight
certaine number of cowes and hawkes yeerely c. THE COUNTIE OF COLRAN BEyond the Glynnes West standeth Krine which now they call the county COLRAN of the principall towne therein It lieth between the river Ban and Lough-foile and confineth South upon the county of Tir-Oen This Ban a passing faire river as Giraldus saith which the name also witnesseth rising out of the mountaines of Mourn in the county of Downe carrieth himselfe and his name into Lough Eaugh or Lough-Sidney a large Lake which name for all that after thirty miles or thereabout for of so great length that Lake is esteemed to be at his going forth in the end he resumeth againe at Tome castle and being beset and shadowed along the sides with woods by Glancolkein where by reason of thick woods and unpassable bogges there is the safest place of refuge for the Scottish Ilanders and the rebels and which the English felt who pursued Surley Boy whiles hee lurked here carrying a proud streame entreth into the sea breeding Salmons in abundance above any other river in all Europe because as some think it passeth all the rest for cleerenesse in the which kinde of water Salmons take speciall delight In this part the O Cahans were of greatest authoritie the principall person of which family O Cahan is thought to be one of the greatest of those Potentates or Uraights as they terme them that ought service unto O Neal the Tyrant of Ulster as who in that barbarous election of O Neal which with as barbarous ceremonies is solemnized in the open aire upon an high hill performeth this honourable service forsooth as to fling a shooe over the head of the elected O Neal. Howbeit he is not of power sufficient to restrain the Scottish Ilanders who to save charges at home every yeere in Summer time flocke hither out of those hungry and barren Ilands where is nothing but beggery to get their living ready upon every occasion and opportunity to maintain rebellions insomuch as provided it hath been by law under paine of high treason that no person call them into Ireland nor give them lodging or entertainment But this county with other confining is escheated to the King who gratiously purposing a civill plantation of those unreformed and waste parts is pleased to distribute the said lands to his civill subjects and the city of London hath undertaken to plant Colonies here THE COUNTIE OF TIR-OEN BEneath Colran lieth Southward the county of TIR-OEN in old books named also Tir-Eogain that is if a man interpret it The land of Eugenius which name the Irish have contracted into Eogain and Oen. This is altogether upland from the sea divided towards the sunnes setting by the river Liffer from Tir-Conell toward the rising with the Logh Eaugh from the county of Antrim and Southward with the Blackwater which in Irish they call Aven More that is The great water from the county of Armagh A country though rough and rugged yet fruitfull and very large as which lieth out threescore miles in length and thirty in bredth divided by the mountaines called Sliew Gallen into the Upper Tir-Oen Northward and the Nether Southward In it are first Cloghar a Bishopricke and that a slender one then Dunganon the chiefe habitation of the Earles which through the favour of King Henry the eighth gave the title of Baron unto Matthew sonne to the first Earle of Tir-Oen And verily this is an house fairer built than commonly they bee in this county but hath beene oftentimes by the Lords themselves defaced with fire because it should not be burnt by the enemy also Ublogahell where O-Neal that most proudly ruleth and oppresseth Ulster was wont to be inaugurated after that barbarous manner and tradition of the countrey and the fort at Black-water on the river More which hath sustained the variable changes and chances of warre whiles there was no other way into this countrey being the place of refuge for the rebels but now it is neglect ever since there was found another Ford more below at which on both sides of the river Charles Lord Mount-joy Deputy erected new Sconces when with hot warre hee pursued the rebels in these parts Who likewise at the same time raised another garrison for t called by his owne name Mont-joy at the Lake Eaugh Logh Sidney in honour of Henry Sidney souldiers now terme it which encloseth the West side of this shire and is made or much encreased by the river Bann as I have said Surely this is a goodly and beautifull Lake passing fishfull and very large as stretching out thirty miles or thereabout as the Poet saith Dulci mentitur N●rea fluctu Fresh water though it bee A sea folke thinke they see And considering the variety of shew upon the bankes the shady groves the meadowes alwaies greene the fertile corne fields if they be well manured the bending and hanging hills and the rills running into it fashioned and shaped for pleasure and profit even by Nature her selfe who seemeth as it were to be very angry with the inhabitants there by for suffering all to grow wild and barbarous through their lazie lithernesse In the upper Tir-Oen stands Straban a Castle well knowne wherein dwelt in our daies Turlogh Leinigh of the sept of O-Neals who after the death of Shan O-Neal as I shall shew anon by election of the people attained to the dignity of O-Neal also some other Piles and fortresses of smaller reckoning the which like as else where in this Iland be no more but towers with narrow loope-holes rather than windowes unto which adjoine Hauls made of turfes and roofed over head with thatch having unto them belonging large Courts or yards fensed round about with ditches and hedges of rough bushes for defence of their cattell against Cow-stealers But if this county have any name or glory at all it is wholly from the Lords thereof who have ruled here as Kings or Tyrants rather of whom there were two Earles of Tir-Oen namely Con O-Neale and Hugh his nephew by his son Matthew But of these I will speake more at large by and by when I am to treat of the Earles and Lords of Ulster THE COUNTIE OF DONEGALL OR TIR-CONELL ALL that remaineth now behind in Ulster toward the North and South was possessed in ancient times by the ROBOGDII and VENNICNII but at this day it is called the County of DONEGALL or TIR-CONELL that is as some interpret it The land of Cornelius or as others The Land of Conall and in truth Marianus plainly nameth it Conallea The county is all in a maner champian and full of havens as bounded with the sea on the North and West sides beating upon it and dis-joined on the East from Tir-Oen with the river Liffer and from Conaght with the Lake Erne Liffer neere unto his spring head enlargeth his stream and spreadeth abroad into a Lake wherein appeareth above the water an Island and in
it hard by a little Monastery a very narrow vault within the ground much spoken of by reason of I wot not what fearefull walking spirits and dreadfull apparitions or rather some religious horrour which cave as some dreame ridiculously was digged by Ulysses when hee went downe to parley with those in hell The inhabitants terme it in these daies Ellan u ' Frugadory that is The Isle of Purgatory and Saint Patricks Purgatory For some persons devoutly credulous affirme that Patrick the Irishmens Apostle or else some Abbat of the same name obtained by most earnest praier at the hands of God that the punishments and torments which the godlesse are to suffer after this life might here bee presented to the eye that so he might more easily root out the sinnes which stucke so fast to his Countrimen the Irish and withall their heathenish errours But seeing that this place is named in Saint Patricks life Reglis I would deeme it to be the other REGIA that Ptolomee mentioneth and the very situation of it in the Geographer implieth no lesse Besides this Patrickes Purgatory there was another Purgatorie also of Sir Brendan in this Island but since I could not finde out the place take here with you that only which I found namely Nechams Tetrastichon of it Asserit esse locum solennis fama dicatum Brendano quo lux lucida saepe micat Purgandas animas datur hic transire per ignes Ut dignae facie Iudicis esse queant If common fame say true a place of Brendan taking name There is and often times cleere lights doe shine within the same The soules have licence here to passe through Purgatory fire That worthily before that Judge they may at length appeare Where this river Liffer augmented by other waters comming unto it approacheth neerer to the sea it spreadeth out againe into a Lake which Ptolomee called LOGIA and now they usually terme it Logh Foile and Logh Der whereupon Necham hath these verses Logh Der aquis dives Lacus est Ultonia novit Commodus indigenis utilitate placet Logh Der a Lake in waters rich this Ulster knoweth well Commodious and pleasing much those that about it dwell Hard by this there flourished sometime Derry a Monasterie and Episcopall See where in the yeere 1566. Edward Randolph renowned for his long service in the warres spent his life in the behalfe of his countrey to his everlasting fame and gave Shan O-Neal who had then assembled and armed all the power he could possibly against the English such an overthrow as that he could never after recover the losse he then sustained But now of late Sir Henry Docwra knight who in the warres of Ireland quit him so well that with great praise he hath approved his singular valour and martiall skill brought hither first a garison and afterward planted here a Colony to bridle the Earle of Tir-Oens insolent pride and established and settled the same with so good orders that it both standeth in good steed for helpe against the rebells and also traineth the barbarous people to their duties The ROBOGDII placed above LOGIA held all that Northren sea coast of Ireland where O Dogherty an obscure Potentate had great sway Amongst these Robogh a little Episcopall towne retaineth the expresse footings of the old name Robogdii Which should be that promontory ROBOGDIUM unlesse it be Faire Foreland I know not From hence the utmost shores all rockie bend backe againe by the mouth of Swilly Lake which Ptolomee seemeth to call ARGITA Beyond these more Westward were the VENNICNII seated where Mac Rwyn Faid Mac Swyn Netoeth and Mac Swyn Bannigh have great lands and large possessions Among these Ptolomee placeth the river VIDUA which now is called Crodagh and the Promontory VENNICNIUM which they now call Rams-head and the Foreland BORAEUM now S. Helens head Upon the shore as it twineth backe from hence Southerly Calebeg affordeth an Haven and commodious harbour for sailers then appeare the ruins and rubbish of Sligah Castle which Maurice Fitz-Girald Lord Justice of Ireland built about the yeere 1242. when he had made himselfe Lord of this country But Iohn Fitz-Girald the first Earle of Kildare was dispossessed of this castle and a goodly inheritance in this tract fined also in a great sum of money for that hee had raised a civill and dangerous war against the Earle of Ulster Lower yet and not far from the mouth of Logh Earne Donegal that is the towne of the Gallicians of Spaine with an Abby sheweth it selfe whence this county when it was made a county tooke the name There have beene rulers over this territory for these many ages they of the house of O-Donel and those extracted from the same stock that the family of O-Neals neither had they any other title than O-Donel and Lords of Tir-Conell For the getting of which title and that they might be by a certaine election of the people inaugurated with their due complements at a stone beside Kilmacrenan they were at deadly discord and committed outrages one upon another untill that King James not long since by his honourable Letters Patents conferred the honour title and stile of Earle Tir-Conell upon Rory O-Donell the brother of that Hugh the rebell who being fled out of his countrey died in Spaine and this Rory his successour practising new treason against King James his advancer upon the terrour of a guilty conscience fled the realme in the yeere 1607. and died at Rome The ancient inhabitants of this Ulster like as the rest of all Ireland throughout were by one name in times past cleped SCOTI and from hence carried they over with them the name of Scots into the North parts of Britain For as Giraldus writeth about the yeere of salvation foure hundred six sons of Mured King of Ulster seized upon the North parts of Britain whereupon it was by a speciall and peculiar name called SCOTIA And yet it appeareth by the Scottish Annales that this happened long before Also Ferguse the second who re-established the kingdome of Scots in Britain came from hence unto whom Patrick had prophesied by way of divination or Soothsaying in these words Although thou seemest at this day base and contemptible in the eies of thy brethren thou shalt shortly be the Prince and Lord of them all And to avow the credit and authority of this prediction the said writer addeth moreover and saith No long space of time after this Fergus according to the Holy mans prophesie obtained the soveraignty in all that land and his seed reigned for many generations together From his stemme proceeded that most valerous King Edan the sonne of Gabran who subdued Scotland that is called Albanach whose posterity in lineall descent and succession reigneth there still The first Englishman that in the reigne of King Henry the second attempted this countrey was Sir Iohn Curcy who having by force won Downe and Armach
so often as there be any civill wars risen among them they sucke out of them their very marrow and heart blood These Nobles or Potentates aforesaid have their Lawyers belonging unto them whom they terme Brehons like as the Gothes named theirs Bellagines who being a sort of most unlearned men upon certaine set daies on the top of some exceeding high hill sit to minister justice unto the neighbour inhabitants betweene such as are at variance and goe to law Before which Judges the Plaintiffes with a pitifull voice make moane and complaine of the wrongs offered unto them the defendants stand firmely upon their deniall If any bee convict evidently of theft they give sentence either to make restitution of the same or recompence by a fine imposed upon them These Potentates also have their Historians about them who write downe their acts and deeds they have their Physitians also and Rimers whom they call Bards yea and their Harpers who have every one of them their severall livelods and lands set out for them and of these there be in each territorie severall professours and those liable to some certaine and severall families that is to say the Brehons bee of one stocke and name the Historians of another and so of the rest who instruct their owne children or kinsmen every one in their owne art and have some of them alwaies to be their successors Now among these great Lords and Nobles there is no hereditarie right of succession observed but whosoever of any principall house is of greater puissance in regard of strength retinewes of followers and boldnesse he by a certaine faction or election of the people in that province usurpeth the Lordship and soveraigntie over the rest quite excluding the sonnes nephewes and next in blood of the party deceased and so with certaine complements of barbarous ceremonies is enthronized in the open aire upon a little hill for that purpose appointed upon a Stone for a chaire of estate At which time also by a certaine law called Tanistry there is sometime nominated and declared a successour who is termed Tanist I wote not whether by a word borrowed from the Danes among whom as among the Northren inhabitants of Britaine Thane was a long time used for a noble man and the Kings especiall officer But whereas I have incidently hapned of better observations concerning this Brehon law and Tanistry diligently collected by Sir Iohn Davis his Majesties Atturney generall in Ireland I hope I may with his good leave impart some of them to publicke knowledge in his owne words The severall countries or territories possessed by the Irishrie were in number 60. and upwards and some being greater and some lesse did in extent and scope of land contain two parts of the Kingdome at least in every one of these countries there was a chiefe Lord or Captaine and under him a Tanist which was his successor apparent both these were elected of the country who commonly made choice of such as were most active and had most swordmen and followers depending upon him The chiefe Lord had certaine lands in Demesne which were called his Loghtii or mensall lands in Demesne where he placed his principall officers namely his Brehon his Marshall his Cupbearer his Physitian his Surgeon his Chronicler his Rimer and others which offices and professions were hereditarie and peculiar to certaine septs and families Hee had also small rents of money and Cowes and customarie duties of Oate-meale Butter and the like out of the lands in the Countrie except the lands of the Church and such of his kinsmen and followers to whom he granted a speciall discharge or freedome Besides he had a generall tallage or cutting high or low at his pleasure upon all the inheritance which hee tooke commonly when he made warre either with his neighbours or against the Crowne of England or made a journey to the State or gave any entertainment so as the whole profits of the countrie were at his disposition when hee listed and so made the inhabitants like the villaines of England upon whom their Lords had power Tallier Haut and Bas as the phrase of our law is whereupon the English call this kind of exaction by the name of cutting This chiefe Lord had his Cosharies upon his tenants that is he and his would lie upon them untill they had eate up all their provisions he would likewise imploy upon them his horsemen his kernes his horse boyes his dogges boyes and the like to be fed and maintained by them which kept the poore people in continuall slaverie and beggerie The Tanist had also a speciall portion of land and certaine Chiefrie proper to the Tanist and within the limits of his portion he had also his cuttings and his Coshiries the rest of the land being distributed among severall septs every sept had a Chiefe or Canfinie as they called him with a Tanist of that sept both which were chosen by the chiefe Lord or Captaine of the countrie and had likewise their severall portions and Chiefries These Captainships or Chiefries were not partable but were entirely enjoyed by such as were elected thereunto All the rest of the lands except the portions of the Cheifes and Tanists descended in course of Gavelkind and were partable among the Males onely in which division the Bastards had their portions as well as the Legitimate For offences and matters criminall none was so hainous or of so high a nature as that it was capitall for treason against the chiefe Lord and murder were fineable the fine they called an Ericke which was assessed by the Lord and his Brehons In case of treason the Lord had all the fine in case of murder the Lord had one moitie and the kindred of the partie slaine the other moitie so as they never forfeited their possessions or their lands for any offence Howbeit their lands were seised by the Lord for their fines untill the same were levied thereupon and then restored Rape was finable in like sort but theft deserved praise and reward if the stealth were brought into the countrie because the Lord had a share and the countrie thereby became the richer But the theft committed in the countrie and carried out if the thiefe were apprehended before his friend made offer of his fine hee was commonly punished with death But the Lord in that case might take an Erick if he would Upon the stealth of any cattell if the owner followed the tract wherein the Irish are incredible cunning insomuch as they will find the same by the bruising of a grasse in the summer time if the party unto whose land the tract is brought cannot make it off to some other land he is to answer the stealth to the owner And this being an Irish law or custome is at this day observed both by the English and Irish the same being ratified by an act of Counsell in the Earle of Sussex his government as fit and necessarie for that
hand in fight Afterwards upon the sixth day of the weeke being Good-friday when the foresaid John was unarmed and went by way of pilgrimage bare foot and in his linnen vesture a visiting the Churches as the manner is treacherously he was taken prisoner by his owne people for a piece of money given in hand and for a greater reward to be given afterward for a recompence and so was delivered unto Hugh Lacie But hee bringeth him unto the King of England who gave unto Hugh Lacie the Earldom of Ulster and the Seigniorie of Conaught which belonged unto John Curcie Then Hugh Lacie being Earle rewarded all the foresaid Traitours that had betraied John Curcie and gave unto them gold and silver more or lesse but straightwayes hung up all the Traitours aforesaid and tooke away all their goods and so Hugh Lacie ruleth over all Ulster and John Curcie is condemned to perpetuall prison because he had before time beene a Rebell to John King of England and would not doe him homage and besides blamed him about the death of Arthur the rightfull heire unto the Crowne But whiles hee was in prison and in extreme povertie having but little allowance and the same course and simple for to eat and drinke he said O God wherefore dealest thou thus by me who have built and re-edified so many Monasteries for thee and thy Saints Now when he had many times wailed and made loud moane in this wise and therewith fell asleep the holy Trinitie appeared unto him saying Why hast thou cast me out of mine owne seat and out of the Church of Doun and placed there my S. Patrick the Patron of Ireland Because indeed John Curcie had expelled the Secular Canons or Priests out of the Cathedrall Church of Doune and brought the blacke Monks of Chester and placed them in the said Church And the holy Trinitie stood there in a stately shrine or seat and John himselfe tooke it downe out of the Church and ordained a Chappell for that Image and in the great Church set up the image of S. Patrick which displeased the most High God therefore thus said God Know thou well that thou shalt never enter into thy Seigniorie in Ireland Howbeit in regard of other good deeds that thou hast done thou shalt with honour be delivered forth of prison which also came to passe And now by this time there arose a contention betweene John King of England and the King of France about a Seigniory and certain Castles and this suit or controversie still depending the King of France offered unto him a Giant or Champion to fight for his right Then the King of England called to remembrance his most valiant Knight John Curcie whom upon the information of others he had before cast into prison The King therefore sent for John Curcie and asked him if he were able to help and stand him in stead in a combat then John answered and said I will not fight for thee but for the right of the Kingdome for which afterward hee undertooke to doe his endeavour in single fight and so refreshed himselfe with meat drink and bathing and tooke the vertue of his owne fortitude and strength and a day was appointed betweene these Giants or Champions namely betweene John Curcie and the other But when the Champion of France heard of his exceeding great feeding and of his strength hee refused the combat and then was the said Seigniorie given unto the King of England Then the King of France requested to see a stroake given by the hand of John Curcie and he set a strong and doughtie good morion full of maile upon a great blocke or log of wood and the foresaid John taking his skeine or sword and looking back round about him with a stern and grim countenance smote the mo●ion through from the very crest downeward into the blocke and the sword stucke in the wood so fast that no other man but himselfe was able to plucke out the sword then John at the request of the Kings easily pluckt it forth And the Kings demanded of the foresaid John wherefore he looked behind him with so grim a countenance before he gave the stroke who answered that if he had failed in giving that stroke he would have slaine them all as well Kings as others And the Kings gave unto him great gifts yea and the King of England rendred unto him also his Seigniorie of Ulster But John Curcie attempted 15. times to saile over sea into Ireland but was alwaies in danger and the wind evermore against him wherefore hee waited a while among the Monkes of Chester At length he returned into France and there rested in the Lord. MCCV. The Abbey of Wetheney in the countie of Lymericke was founded by Theobald the sonne of Walter Butler Lord of Karryke MCCVI. The order of Friers Minors was begun neere the citie Assisa by Saint Francis MCCVIII William Breos is expelled out of England and commeth into Ireland England is interdicted for the tyrannie of King John of England Likewise a great overthrow and slaughter hapned at Thurles in Mounster committed upon the Lord Justice of Irelands men by Sir Geffery Mareys MCCX John King of England came into Ireland with a great fleet and a puissant armie and for that the sons of Hugh Lacie to wit the Lord Walter Lord of Meth and Hugh his brother exercised tyrannie upon the Commons and especially because they slew Sir John Curson Lord of Rathenny and Kilbarrocke for they heard that the foresaid John accused them unto the King therefore I say the King drave the foresaid sonnes of Hugh Lacie out of the land and they fled into France and served in the Monasterie of Saint Taurin as unknowne working about clay and bricke and sometime in gardens as Gardiners but at length they were knowne by the Abbat of the said Monasterie and the said Abbat entreated the King for them because he had baptized his sonnes and was Godsib unto him as a Godfather many times and Walter Lacie paid two thousand and five hundred markes and Hugh Lacie payed a great summe of money unto the King for his ransome and at the request of the said Abbat restored they were againe unto their former degree and Seigniorie And Walter Lacie brought with him John the sonne of Alured that is Fitz-Acory sonne to the foresaid Abbats whole brother and he made him Knight and gave unto him the Seigniorie of Dengle and many other Lordships Item hee brought Monkes with him out of the same Monasterie and gave unto them many fermes and the Cell called Fourie in regard of charitie thankfulnesse and counsell and Hugh Lacie Earle of Ulster made a Cell for Monkes and endowed them in Ulster in a place called ..... But John King of England having taken many pledges and hostages as well of English as of Irish and hanged a number of malefactours upon Jebbits and setled the State of the land returned into England the same yeere that he came
Sampford archbishop of Dublin In the same yeer the King of Hungary forsaking the Christian faith became an Apostata and when hee had called fraudulently as it were to a Parliament the mightier potentates of his land Miramomelius a puissant Saracene came upon them with 20000. souldiers carrying away with him the King with all the Christians there assembled on the even of Saint John Baptists day as the Christians therefore journied the weather that was cleere and faire turned to be cloudie and suddenly a tempest of haile killed many thousands of the Infidels together The Christians returned to their owne homes and the Apostata King alone went with the Saracenes The Hungarians therefore crowning his sonne King continued in the Catholike faith MCCLXXXIX Tripolis a famous citie was laied even with the ground not without much effusion of Christian blood and that by the Soldan of Babylon who commanded the images of the Saints to bee drawne and dragged at horses tailes in contempt of the name of Christ through the citie newly destroyed MCCXC Inclyta Stirps Regis Sponsis datur ordine legis In lawfull guise by hand and ring Espoused is the Kings off-spring The Lord Gilbert Clare tooke to wife the Ladie Joan a daughter of the Lord King Edward in the Abbey or Covent Church of Westminster and the marriage was solemnely celebrated in the Moneth of May and John the Duke of Brabant his sonne married Margaret the said Kings daughter also in the Church aforesaid in the moneth of July The same yeere the Lord William Vescie was made Justice of Ireland entring upon the office on Saint Martins day Item O Molaghelin King of Meth is slaine MCCXCI Gilbert Clare the sonne of Gilbert and of the Ladie Joan of Acres was borne the 11. day of May in the morning betimes Item there was an armie led into Ulster against O-Hanlon and other Princes hindering the peace by Richard Earle of Ulster and William Vescie Justice of Ireland Item the Ladie Eleanor sometime Queene of England and mother of King Edward died in the feast of St. Iohn Baptist who in the religious habite which she desired led a laudable life for the space of foure yeeres eleven moneths and sixe dayes within the Abbey of Ambresby where she was a professed Nun. Item there resounded certaine rumours in the eares of the Lord Pope Martin on the even of St. Mary Maudlen as touching the Citie Acon in the holy land which was the only refuge of the Christians namely that it was besieged by Milkador the Soldan of Babylon an infinite number of his souldiers and that it had been most fiercely assaulted about fortie daies to wit from the eighth day before the Ides of April unto the fifteene Calends of July At length the wall was plucked down by the Saracens that assaulted it and an infinite number of them entred the Citie many Christians being slaine and some for feare drowned in the sea The Patriarch also with his traine perished in the sea The King of Cypres and Otes Grandison with their companies pitifully escaped by a ship Item granted there was unto the Lord Edward King of England by the Lord Pope Martin the tenth part of all the profits of Ecclesiasticall benefices for seven yeeres in Ireland toward the reliefe of the holy land Item the eldest sonne of the Earle of Clare was borne MCCXCII Edward King of England eftsoones entred Scotland and was elected King of Scotland Lord John Balliol of Galwey obtained the whole kingdome of Scotland in right of inheritance and did homage unto the Lord Edward King of England at New-castle upon Tine on S. Stephens day Florentius Earle of Holland Robert Brus Earle of Carrick John Hastings John Comyn Patrick Dunbar John Vescie Nicolas Soules and William Roos who all of them in that kingdome submitted themselves to the judgement of the Lord King Edward Item a fifteene of all secular mens goods in Ireland was granted unto the soveraign Lord King of England the same to be collected at the feast of S. Michael Item Sir Peter Genevile Knight died Item Rice ap Meredyke was brought to York and there at horses tailes drawne c. MCCXCIII A generall and open war there was at sea against the Normans Item no small number of the Normans by fight at sea was slain by the Barons of the Ports of England and other their co-adjutors between Easter and Whitsuntide For which cause there arose war between England and France whereupon Philip King of France directed his letters of credence unto the King of England that he should make personall appearance at his Parliament to answer unto Questions which the same King would propose unto him whose mandate in this behalf being not fulfilled straightwaies the King of France declaring by the counsell of the French the King of England to be outlawed condemned him Item Gilbert Clare Earle of Glocester entred with his wife into Ireland about the feast of S. Luke MCCXCIV William Montefort in the Kings counsell holden at Westminster before the King died sodainly which William was the Dean of S. Pauls in London in whose mouth the Prelates Bishops and Cleargy putting their words which he was to utter and doubting how much the King affected and desired to have of every one of them and willing by him to be certified in whom also the King reposed most trust being returned to the King and making hast before the King to deliver expresly a speech that he had conceived became speechlesse on a sodain and fell downe to the ground and was carried forth by the Kings servants in their armes in piteous manner In regard of which sight that thus happened men strucken with feare gave out these speeches Surely this man hath beene the Agent and Procurator that the Tenths of Ecclesiasticall benefices should bee paied to the King and another author and procurer of a scrutinie made into the fold and flocke of Christ as also of a contribution granted afterward to the King crying against William Item the Citie of Burdeaux with the land of Gascoigne adjoining was occupied or held by the ministers of the King of France conditionally but unjustly and perfidiously detained by the King of France for which cause John Archbishop of Dublin and certaine other Lords of the Nobilitie were sent into Almaine to the King thereof and after they had their dispatch and answer in Tordran the Lord Archbishop being returned into England ended his life upon S. Leodegaries day The bones of which John Sampford were enterred in the Church of Saint Patrick in Dublin the tenth day before the Calends of March. The same yeere there arose debate betweene Lord William Vescy Lord Justice of Ireland for the time being and the Lord John Fitz-Thomas and the said Lord Williliam Vescy crossed the seas into England left Sir William Hay in his stead Justice of Ireland but when both of them were come before the King to fight a combat under an Appeal for treason the foresaid
there was of oxen and kine in Ireland MCCCXXV Richard Lederede Bishop of Ossorie cited Dame Alice Ketyll upon her perverse hereticall opinion and caused her to make personall appearance before him and being examined as touching sorceries he found by an enquest that she had practised sorceries among which this was one foule fact of hers that a certaine spirit named Robyn Artysson lay with her and that she offered unto him nine red cockes at a stone bridge in a certaine foure crosse high way Item that she swept the streets of Kilkenny with beesomes between Complin and Courefew and in sweeping the filth toward the house of William Utlaw her sonne by way of conjuring mumbled these words Unto the house of William my sonne Hie all the wealth of Kilkenny towne Now the complices of the said Alice and those that agreed unto this divelish and wretched practise of hers were one Pernill of Meth and Basilia the daughter of the same Pernil When the above named Alice was by inquisition attainted of these foresaid imputations the Bishop punished her by the purse and caused her utterly to abjure all sorcerie and witch-craft But when afterwards shee stood convict eftsoones of the same crime herselfe with the foresaid Basilia fled but was never after found As for the said Pernill she was burnt at Kilkenny but at the houre of death shee avouched that the foresaid William deserved death as well as her selfe affirming that he for a yeere and a day wore the divels girdle upon his bare bodie Whereupon the Bishop caused the said William to bee apprehended and laid in prison for eight or nine weekes within the Castle of Kilkenny and by the Bishops decree and appointment hee had two men to give attendance and to minister unto him with expresse commandement not to speake unto him but once a day nor to eat or drinke with him At length the said William by the helpe of the Lord Arnald Poer Seneschall of the Countie of Kilkenny was delivered forth of prison and the foresaid William gave a great summe of money unto the abovenamed Arnold to imprison the Bishop aforesaid The Lord Arnold before named caused the Bishop aforesaid to lye in prison about three moneths Now among the goods and implements of the said Alice there was a certaine holy Wafer-cake found having the name of the Divell imprinted upon it there was found also a boxe and within it an ointment wherewith she used to besmear or grease a certaine piece of wood called a Coultree which being thus annointed the said Alice with her complices could ride and gallop upon the said Coultree whethersoever they would all the world over through thick thin without either hurt or hindrance And because the foresaid things were so notorious Alice was cited againe to appeare at Dublin before M. Deane of the Church of St. Patricke there to finde greater favour Who there made her appearance and craved a day of answer under a sufficient mainprise and suretiship as it was thought But shee was no more to be seene for by the counsell of her sonne and others that were not knowne was she kept hidden in a farme house or village untill the winde served for England and so she passed over and never was it knowne whither she went Now because it was found by the inquisition and recognizance of the said Parnell condemned to be burnt that William Utlaw was consenting to his mother in her sorcerie and with-craft the Bishop caused him to be arrested and taken by the Kings writ and to be kept in prison who in the end through the supplication of great Lords was set free yet with this condition that he should cause the Church of S. Maries in Kilkenny to be covered all over with lead and to doe other almes-deeds by a certaine time which almes-deeds if he performed not within the said terme then he should be in the same state wherein he stood when he was taken by vertue of the Kings Processe MCCCXXVI A Parliament was holden at Whitsontide in Kilkenny unto which Parliament came the Lord Richard Burk the Earle of Ulster although he was somewhat weake and crazie thither repaired also all the Lords and Potentates of Ireland and there the said Earle made a great and noble feast unto the Lords and the people Afterwards the Lord Earle taking his leave of those Nobles and Lords went to Athisell where he ended his life And a little before the feast of S. John Baptist he was there enterred The Lord William Burk became his heire MCCCXXVII There arose a quarrell and a fray betweene the Lord Moris Fitz-Thomas and the Lord Arnald Pover and the Lord Moris had in his traine and company the Lord Botiller and the Lord William Bermingham and the Lord Arnald had in his retinew the Bourkeins of whom the said Lord Morrice Fitz-Thomas slew many and some he chased into Connaght In the same yeere after Michaelmas the Lord Arnald came to aide the Bourkeins and by occasion of certaine rude and uncivill tearmes which the Lord Arnald had given out in calling him Rymour the said Morice raised an armie againe and together with Botiller and the said William Bermingham with a puissant hoast burnt the lands and possessions of the said Lord Arn●ld in Ofath Also the said William Bermingham fired the lands and man our houses of the Lord Arnald Pover in Mounster and Kenlys in Osserie he burnt so that the Lord Arnald was forced to fly with the Baron of Donnyl to Waterford and there they remained a moneth untill that the Earle of Kildare then Lord Justice of Ireland and others of the Kings Counsel took a day betweene them which day the Lord Arnald kept not but came to Dublin and passed the seas into England about the feast of the Purification and after that Arnald had sailed over the said Moris Botiller and the Lord William Bermingham with a great armie came spoiled harried and burnt the lands of the said Arnald and by reason of those puissant forces that they had led and the many mischiefes which they had done the Kings ministers of his Counsell feared lest he would besiege Cities and therefore the Cities made provision with more warding and watching the while betweene And when the said Lord Moris Botiler and William heard that the Cities made such provision and preparation before hand they gave intelligence unto the Kings Counsell that they would come to Kilkenny and there cleere himselves that they never thought to doe any noisance to the lands of their soveraigne Lord the King but onely to be revenged of their enemies Unto which Parliament came the Earle of Kildare then Justice of Ireland the Prior of Kilmaynon to wit Roger Outlaw Chancellour of Ireland Nicholas Fastoll Justice in the Bench and others of the Kings Counsell and the foresaid Moris and William demanded the Kings Charter of peace but they of the Kings Counsell warily making answer tooke day unto the moneth after Easter that they might
by all But when the Nations from the North like violent tempests overflowed these South parts it became subject to the Scots For under the Emperours Honorius and Arcadius as wee read in Orosius it was inhabited as well as Ireland by the Scottish Nations and Ninnius hath written that one Biule a Scot was Lord of it But as the same writer recordeth the Scots were driven out of all the British countries and Ilands by Cuneda Grandfather of Maglocunus whom Gildas for the foule work that he made in these Ilands tearmed the Dragon of the Iles. After this Edwin King of Northumberland brought this Iland like as the foresaid Anglesey under the subjection of the English if we understand them both by the name of Menaviae as writers perswade us at which time it was reckoned an Iland of the Britans But when the North had sent abroad his brood the second time I meane the Normans Danes and Norwegians these Norwegians who with their manifold robberies and roveries did most hurt from the Northren sea tooke up their haunt into this Iland and the Hebrides and therein erected Lords and Petty Kings whose briefe history I will here put downe word for word out of an old Manuscript lest it should be utterly lost which is intituled The Chronicle of Man seeming to have been written by the Monks of the Abbey of Russin which was the principall place of religion in this Isle A CHRONICLE OF THE KINGS OF MAN ANno Domini MLXV Edward of blessed memory King of England departed this life after whom succeeded in the kingdome Harald the son of Godwin against whom Harald Harfager King of Norway came into the field and fought a battell at Stainford-bridge and the English obtaining the victory put them all to flight out of which chace Godred surnamed Crovan the son of Harald the black of Iseland came unto Godred the sonne of Syrric who then reigned in Man and by him was honourably received The same yeere William the BASTARD conquered England and Godred the sonne of Syrric died after whom succeeded his sonne Fingal MLXVI Godred Crovan assembled a great fleet and came to Man fought with the people of the land but was overcome and put to rout A second time hee rallied his forces and his fleet sailed into Man joined battell with the Manksmen was vanquished and driven out of the field A third time he gathered a great multitude together and by night arrived in the haven called Ramsa and hid three hundred men within a wood which stood upon the hanging hollow brow of an hill called Scacafel Now when the sunne was risen the Manksmen put their people in order of battell and with a violent charge encountred with Godred And when the fight was hot those three hundred men starting out of the ambush behind their backes began to foile the Manksmen and put them to the worst yea and forced them to flye Now when they saw themselves discomfited and no place for them of refuge to escape for the sea water comming in with the tide had filled the channell of Ramsa river and the enemies on the other side followed the chace hard they that then remained alive tooke up a pitifull cry and besought Godred to save their lives And he moved with compassion pittying their wofull calamity as who for a certain time had beene nursed and brought up among them sounded the retrait and forbad his hoast to pursue them any longer Goared the morrow after proposed this choice unto his owne army whether they would rather divide Man among themselves and therein dwell or only take the substance and pillage of the countrey and so returne unto their owne homes But they chose rather to wast and spoile the whole Iland and with the goods thereof to enrich themselves and so returne home But Godred himselfe with those few Ilanders that remained with him inhabited the South part of the Iland and granted to the remaines of the Manksmen the North part with this covenant and condition That none of them should at any time venture and presume to challenge any part of the land by right of inheritance Whereby it came to passe that even unto this day the whole Isle is the Kings domain alone and all the revenues thereof belonging unto the crown Godred then reduced Dublin and a great part of Leymistir under his subjection As for the Western Scottish he so over-awed them as that no man who built ship or cog-boat durst drive into it above three nailes Now he reigned 16. yeeres and died in the Iland that is called Yle He left behind him verily three sons Lagman Harald and Olave Lagman the eldest taking upon him the kingdome reigned seven yeeres And Harald his brother a great while rebelled against him but at length being taken prisoner by Lagman he had his members of generation cut off and his eyes plucked out of his head After this Lagman repenting himselfe that he had pulled out his brothers eyes gave over the kingdome of his owne accord and wearing the badge of the Lords Crosse took a journey to Jerusalem in which he died MLXXV. All the Nobles and Lords of the Islands hearing of the death of Lagman dispatched their Embassadors to Murecard O-Brien King of Ireland requesting that hee would send some industrious and worthy man of the blood royall to be their King untill Olave Godreds sonne came to full age The King very willingly yeelded to their requests and sent unto them one Dopnald the sonne of Tade warning and charging him to govern the kingdome which by right belonged unto another with all gentlenesse and modesty But he after he was come to the Crowne not weighing of the charge that his Lord and M. gave him abused his place and lorded with great tyranny and so committing many outrages and villanies reigned cruelly three yeers Then all the Princes of the Ilands agreed together in one conspiracy rose up against him and expelled him out of their coasts Who fled into Ireland and never looked them in the face after MLXXVII One Ingemund was sent from the King of Norway to take upon him the dominion of the Ilands and when he was come to the Isle Leodus he sent messengers to all the Nobles of the Ilands with a commandement that they should meet together and ordain him their King Mean while himselfe with his companions did nothing else but rob spoile make good cheere and banquet dishonour and abuse married wives defloure young maidens yea and give himselfe over to filthy pleasures and fleshly lusts But when tidings hereof came to the Nobles of the Ilands now assembled to make him King they were set on fire with furious wrath and sped themselves in all hast toward him and surprising him in the night burnt the house wherein hee was and with fire and sword made a quick dispatch of him and his company MXCVIII The Abbey of S. Mary at Cistertium or Cisteaux was founded Antioch was won by the Christians and a
and reigned thirty yeeres In the third yeere of his reigne the people of Dublin sent for him and created him King of Dublin against whom Mure-card King of Ireland raised war and encamping himselfe before the Citie which is called Coridelis sent his halfe brother by the mothers side Osibeley with three thousand men of armes to Dublin who was by Godred and the Dublinians slaine and all the rest put to flight These exploits atchieved Godred returned to Man began to use tyranny and turned Noblemen out of their inheritances whereof one called Thorsin Oters Son mightier than the rest came to Sumerled and made Dubgall Sumerleds son King of the Ilands subduing unto him many Ilands When Godred had intelligence of these things by one Paul he prepared a navie and setteth forward to meet with Sumerled who was comming with a fleet of 80. saile And in the yeere 1156. there was a battell fought at sea on Twelfe day at night and after many a man slaine on both sides the next day after they grew to a pacification and divided among themselves the kingdome of the Ilands and so it became two severall kingdomes from that very day unto this present time And this was the cause of the overthrow of the kingdome of the Isles since time that Sumerleds son seized upon it MCLVIII Sumerled came to Man with a fleet of 53. saile put Godred to flight wasted the Iland Godred then crossed over to Norway to seek for aid against Sumerled MCLXIV Sumerled gathered together a fleet of 1060. ships and arrived at Rhinfrin coveting to subdue all Scotland But by the just judgement of God hee was vanquished by a few together with his sonne and an infinite number of people there slain The same yeere there was a field fought at Ramsae betweene Reginald brother of Godred and them of Man and by the deceitfull practice of a certaine Earle those of Man were put to flight Then Reginald began to reigne and on the fourth day after came Godred upon him out of Norway with a great multitude of armed men and tooke his brother Reginald whom he bereft both of his eyes and of his genitall members The same yeere died Malcolm King of Scotland and his brother William succeeded him in the kingdome MCLXVI Two Comets or blazing stars appeared before Sun-rising in the Moneth of August the one in the South the other in the North. MCLXXI Richard Earle of Penbrock sailed over into Ireland and subdued Develin with a great part of Ireland MCLXXVI John Curey conquered Ulster and Vivian Legate of the Apostolicke Sea came into Man and caused King Godred to bee lawfully espoused unto his wife Phingola daughter of Mac-Lotlen son to Murkartac King of Ireland to wit the mother of Olave then three yeers old Sylvan the Abbat married them unto whom the very same day Godred gave a piece of land at Miriscoge where he built a Monastery but at length the ground was together with the Monkes granted to the Abbey of Russin Reginald sonne to Eac-Marcat one of the royall blood comming into Man with a great band of men in the Kings absence at the first conflict put to flight certain warders that kept the shore and killed about 30. men Afterwards the Manksmen gathering their forces together the same day slew him and almost all his company MCLXXXIII O-Fogolt was Sheriffe of Man MCLXXXV There fell out to be an Eclipse of the Sun on Saint Philip and Jacobs day MCLXXXVII On the fourth Ides of November died Godred King of the Ilands and the next Summer was his body translated to the Isle of Hy. He left behind him three sonnes Reginald Olave and Tvar In his life he ordained his sonne Olave to be his heire because hee onely was borne in lawfull wedlock But the people of Man seeing that Olave was now scarce ten yeeres old sent for Reginald out of the Iles and set him up for their King MCLXXXVIII Reginald Godreds son began to raigne over the Ilands and Murchard a man of great power throughout all the kingdome of the Iles was slaine MCXCII A battell was fought betweene Reginald and Engus the sonnes of Sumerled but Engus won the victory The same yeere was the Abbey of Russin translated to Dufglas but after foure yeeres the Monks returned to Russin MCCIII Michael Bishop of the Isles died at Fontans after whom succeeded Nicolas MCCIV. Hugh Lacy came with an army into Ulster and gave John Curcy battell tooke him prisoner and conquered Ulster Afterward hee set John at liberty who came to King Reginald and he honourably entertained him because he was his brother in law for John Curcy had taken to wife Affrica Godreds daughter who founded the Abbey of S. Mary de Iugo Domini and was there buried MCCV. John Curcy and Reginald King of the Iles having entred into Ulster with one hundred ships in the haven which is called Stranford slackly besieged the fortresse of Rath but Walter Lacy comming upon them with an army put them to flight after this Curcy never recovered his land MCCX Engus Sumerleds son was with three of his sonnes slaine John King of England at the same time brought a navie of 500. saile to Ireland subdued it who sending a certaine Earle named Fulk unto Man in one fortnight and a day wholly in a manner wasted it and taking hostages returned thence into their country King Reginald and his Nobles were not in Man MCCXVII Nicolas Bishop of the Ilands departed this life and was buried in Ulster within the house of Benchor after whom succeeded Reginald Here I thinke good to write somewhat againe of Olave and Reginald Brethren REginald gave unto his brother Olave the I le called Lodhus which is said to be larger than the rest of the Ilands but slenderly inhabited because it stands much upon mountaines is stony besides and almost all unfit for tillage The inhabitants thereof live for the most part by hunting and fishing Olave therfore went to possesse himselfe of this Iland and dwelt in it leading a poore life And when he saw it would not suffice to maintaine himselfe and his army he came boldly unto his brother Reginald who then made his abode in the Ilands and spake unto him in this maner Brother saith hee my Soveraigne Lord the King thou knowest that the kingdome of the Ilands belonged unto me by inheritance but since the Lord hath elected thee to sway the Scepter thereof I envie thee not nor take it grievously that thou art exalted to that royall dignity Now thus much I heartily beseech thee that thou wouldest provide me some portion of land in the Iles wherein I may live honestly according to mine estate for the Iland Lodhus which thou gavest unto me is not sufficient to sustaine me Reginald his brother after he had given him the hearing said he would take counsell upon the point and the morrow after when Olave was sent for and came in place to parley of the matter Reginald commandeth
propriety but by turnes hee taketh for to use whomsoever hee fancieth whereby hee neither can have his wish nor hope of children Of these Islands the common people affirmeth there bee 44. whereas in truth there are many more Pliny wrote that there were 30. of them But Ptolomee reckoneth up but five The first is RICINA Pliny calleth it RICNEA Antoninus RIDUNA now termed Racline and I think it should be read in Antonine Riclina for cl easily maketh a d by joining a c at the backe unto it A small Iland this is butting full upon Ireland knowne unto the ancient writers for that it lieth in the very narrow sea betweene Ireland and Scotland famous at this day for no cause else but for the overthrow and slaughter of the Scottish Irish who otherwhiles possessed themselves of it and were thrust out by the English under the conduct of Sir William Norris in the yeere 1575. The next is EPIDIUM which by the name I would ghesse with that excellent Geographer Gerard Mercator lay neere unto the promontorie of the Epidii and to the shore And seeing there standeth apparently in the same situation an Iland called Ila of good largenesse and of a fruitfull plaine and champion soile I dare avouch that this was Epidium or the Isle of the Epidii for in some places it is read 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 This carrieth in length 24. miles and is 16. miles broad so plentifull of cattell wheat and heards of red deere that it was the second seat next unto Man for the King of the Ilands as it is at this day of the Mac-Connels who herein have their Castle at Dunyweg Betwixt Ila and Scotland lieth Iona which Bede tearmeth Hy and Hu given by the Picts unto the Scottish Monkes for propagating and preaching of the Gospell among them where stood a Monasterie famous by reason of the Scottish Kings tombes and the frequent conversing of holy men therein among whom Columba the Apostle of the Picts was the principall of whose Cell the Iland also is called Columb-Kill like as the man also himselfe by a compound name was termed Columbkill as Bede witnesseth And here at length as some will have it a Bishops seat was ordained in Sodore a little towne whence all the Iles were also called Sodorensis for that it is reckoned to be in his Diocesse Then have you MALEOS that Ptolomee writeth of now called Mula whereof Plinie seemeth to make mention when hee saith Mella is reported to bee 25. miles larger than the rest For so we read in the most ancient edition of Plinie printed at Venice whereas in the Vulgar copies in steed of Reliquarum Mella is read Reliquarum nulla that is None of the rest c. The Eastern HEBUDA now called Skie from hence lieth out in a great length over against the shore or coast of Scotland the Westerne HEBUDA bending more Westward is now called Lewis the Lord whereof is Mac-Cloyd and in the ancient history of Man is named Lodhus full of steep and craggie little hills stony and very slenderly inhabited howbeit the largest of them all from which Eust is dis-joined with a very narrow wash All the rest save onely Hyrtha are of small account being either very stony or else inaccessible by reason of craggy cliffes scarce clad with any green-sord Yet the Scots purchased all these with their ready mony of the Norwegians as I have said before as if they had beene the very buttresses or pillars of the kingdome although they reape very small commodity thereby considering that the inhabitants the ancient true Scots or Irish being men of stout stomackes and desperate boldnesse will by no meanes be subject to the severity of lawes or awed by justice As touching their manners apparell and language they differ nothing at all from the wild Irishry of whom we have spoken before so that wee may easily know thereby that they be one and the selfe same nation originally They that beare the sway and doe rule in these Ilands are the families of Mac-Conel Mac-Alen whom others terme Mac-len Mac-Cloyd of Lewis and Mac-Cloyd of Harich But the mightiest house of them all is that of the Mac-Conels who glory in their pedegree as derived from Donald who in the reigne of Iames the third stiled himselfe King of the Ilands and with all kinde of cruelty in most savage and barbarous manner plagued Scotland which notwithstanding his sonne being outlawed paied deerely as forced to submit his whole estate absolutely unto the Kings will and pleasure and had of his gift some possessions assigned to him in Cantire In the foregoing age of this stocke there flourished Donel Gormy Mac-Conell that is The blew haply so surnamed of his apparell He had issue two sonnes Agnus Mac-Conell and Alexander he who leaving this barren and hungry Cantir invaded the Glinnes in Ireland Agnus Mac-Conell aforesaid was father of Iames Mac-Conell slaine by Shan O-Neale and of Surley Boy upon whom Queene Elizabeth of her bounty bestowed lands in Rout within Ireland Iames Mac-Conell had issue Agnus Mac-Conell of whom I have spoken before between whom and Mac-Clen there was such a deepe and inveterate hatred that the force of consanguinity was never able to quench the feud but that they polluted themselves most wickedly with one anothers bloud From the Haebudes if you hold sailes along by the shore toward the North-east you may at length discover the ORCADES now called ORKNEY being thirty Ilands or thereabout sundred by the Ocean which hath his walke and current betweene them A certain ancient fragment so calleth them as one would say Argat that is as the same interpreteth it Above the Getes but I would rather expound it Above Cath for it lyeth over against Cath a countrey of Scotland which of the Promontory they use to call Cathnesse the inhabitants whereof seeme to be named amisse by Ptolomee CARINI for CATINI In Solinus his time no man dwelled in them but overgrowne they were Vinceis or Iunceis herbis that is With binding or rushy weeds but now inhabited indeed they are yet destitute of woods bearing barley good store and altogether without wheat Among these Pomonia famous for an Episcopall See is the principall called by Solinus POMONA Diutina for the length of the daies there now the inhabitants tearme it Mainland as if it were the continent or maine adorned with the Bishops seat in Kirkwale a little towne and with two castles it yeeldeth plenty of tinne and of lead OCETIS also is reckoned by Ptolomee in number of these which now we ghesse to be named Hethy But whether Hey which is counted one of these be Plinies DUMNA or no I could never yet resolve Surely if it be not I would thinke that Faire Isle the onely towne whereof for it hath but one they call Dumo is that Dumna rather than with Becanus judge Wardhuys in Lapland to be it Iulius Agricola who first of all sailed round about Britaine with his fleet discovered out
of these Isles of Orkney which till that time were unknowne and subdued them if we may beleeve Tacitus but questionlesse they were knowne in the time of Claudius the Emperour for Pomponius Mela who then lived mentioneth them Yet doubtlesse Orosius is untrue in that he writeth that Claudius conquered them and so farre is it off that Claudius should conquer them which is avouched in S. Hieroms Chronicles that Iuvenal in Hadrians time not long after Agricola wrote thus of them Arma quid ultra Littora Iuvernae promovimus modò captas Orcades minima contentos nocte Britannos Why warred we past Irish coasts and Orkneys lately won Beyond the Britans where there is least night and longest Sun Afterward when the Romans Empire in Britaine was utterly decaied now the Saxons as it seemeth were seated in them for Claudian the Poet plaied upon them in these termes Maduerunt Saxone fuso Orcades With Saxons blood that there were slaine The Orkneys was imbrued againe Ninnius also writeth that Octha and Ehissus Saxons who served for pay under the Britans sailed round about the Picts with 40. Ciules that is Flyboats or Roving Pinnaces and wasted the Iles of Orkney After this they came into the hands of the Norwegians whence it is that the inhabitants speake the Gothes language by the grant of Donald Ban who after the death of his brother Malcom Can-Mor King of Scots by excluding his nephewes had usurped the kingdome that by their helpe he might be assisted in that intended ambition and the Norwegians held the possession of them unto the yeere of salvation 1266. For then Magnus the fourth of that name King of Norway being by the Scots that warred upon him brought to distresse surrendred them up againe unto Alexander the third King of the Scots by covenant and composition which Haquin King of the Norwegians confirmed unto King Robert Brus in the yeere 1312. And at length in the yeere 1498. Christian the first King of Norway and of Denmark renounced all his right for himselfe and his successours when he affianced his daughter unto James the third King of Scots and made over all his interest to his said sonne in law and his successours and for the stronger assurance thereof the Popes confirmation was procured to ratifie the same To say nothing of the Earles of Orkney that were of more ancient times who also in right of inheritance obtained the Earldomes of Cathnesse and of Strathern at the last the title of Orkney came by an heire female unto Sir William Sent-cler and William the fourth of this line called The Prodigall Earl for wasting his patrimony was the last Earle of this race Howbeit his posterity enjoyed the honour to be Baron Sent-cler unto these daies And the title of Cathnes remaineth still in the posterity of his brother But within our remembrance this honourable title of the Earle of Orkney and Lord of Shetland was conferred upon Robert a base sonne of King James the fifth and Patrick Steward his sonne enjoyeth the same at this present Beyond the Iles of Orkney and above Britaine the author of that ancient Commentary upon Horace placeth the Fortunate Ilands wherein as they write none dwell but devout and just men and the Grecians in their verses celebrate the pleasantnesse and fertility of the place calling them the Elysian fields But as touching these Fortunate Isles take with you if you please another relation of that old fabulous Grecian Isacius Tzetzes out of his notes upon Lycophron In the Ocean saith he there is a British Iland between West Britain and Thule that looke toward the East Thither men say the soules of the dead are translated over for on the shore of that sea wherein the Iland of Britaine lieth there dwelt fisher-men subject unto the French but paying them no tribute because as they say they ferry over the soules and folk departed When these fishermen returne home in the evening within a while after they heare some knocking at the door and heare a voice calling them unto their work Then rise they and to the shore they goe not knowing what causeth them for to goe where they see boats prepared but none of their owne and no men in them which when they be entred into they fall to their oares and feele the weight of the said boats as if they were laden with men but see no body After that with one push they come to a British Iland in a trice whereas otherwise in ships of their own they could hardly get thither with a day and nights sailing Now when they are come to the Iland then again they see no creature but heare a voice of those that receive them that are a shipboard and count them by the kinred of father and mother yea and call them one by one according to their dignity art and name But they after that the ship is discharged of her load return home againe with one yerke of their oares Hence it is that many men thinke these be the Ilands of blessed ghosts Of the same stampe also may that Poeticall Geographer seeme to be of whom Muretus maketh mention in his variety of readings who hath written that C. Iulius Caesar went thither once in a great galley with an hundred men aboard and when he was willing to have seated himselfe there as being wondrously delighted with the incredible pleasantnesse of the place he was full against his will and struggling what he could to the contrary throwne out by those invisible inhabitants Five daies and nights sailing from the Isles of Orkney Solinus placeth THULE An Iland if any other often celebrated by the Poets whensoever they would signifie any thing very remote and farre off as if it were the furthest part of the whole world Hereupon saith Virgil Tibi serviat ultima Thule that is Let Thule most remote thee serve Seneca Terrarum ultima Thule that is Thule the farthest land that is Juvenal De conducendo loquitur jam Rhetore Thule that is Now Thule speakes how Oratours to hire Claudian Thulen procul axe remotam that is Thule far remote under the Pole and in another place Ratibusque impervia Thule And Thule where no ships can passe Statius Ignotam vincere Thulen that is To conquer Thule all unknowne And Ammianus Marcellinus by way of an Adage or Proverbiall speech useth it in these words Etiamsi apud Thulen moraretur that is Although he made his abode even in Thule To passe over other testimonies give me leave yet to note thus much moreover that the said Statius used Thule for Britaine in these his verses Caerulus haud alitèr cùm dimicat incola Thules Agmina falcifero circumvenit acta covino Even so the blew inhabitants of Thule when they fight Environ battels marching on with sithed chariots might As also in this place of his Poem entituled Sylvae as it seemeth restuo circumsona gurgite Thule Thule that doth resound amaine With sea that ebbes
have beene converted into a Garner or Store-house for corne and of the said British corne tearmed Britannicum and so much the rather because in the old Records of Holland wee finde it written Brittanburg for that age termed castles standing commodiously and such as were stored with plenty of corne Burghs as we read in the history of the Burgundians Moreover what if the Britans that in this doubtfull matter I may run out of one conjecture to another sometimes held it in their owne hands and so adopted it into their owne name considering they invested Magnus Maximus whom some name Clemens Maximus in the purple robe and proclaimed him Emperour against Gratian. For he arrived at this mouth of Rhene If againe it had not as yet taken this name Britannicum what if the Saxons tearmed it Huis te Britten for that they tooke ship from hence into Britain when they annoied our shores with their Cyules for so they tearmed their pinnaces or Brigantines Verily Zosimus sheweth that the Saxons after they had driven out the Frankers called Salii planted themselves in Batavia that is Holland and that from thence they put over by multitudes into Britain it is most cleere and evident Which also as I said before Ianus Douza a noble Gentleman indeed and passing well learned in his Ode of Leyden seemeth to imply yet here againe lest I might seeme too forward and lavish in setting forth the glory of Britaine considering that the right learned Hadrian Iunius borne and bred in Holland hath fetched the originall of the herbe Britannica from Britten a word of his owne country because it groweth plentifully upon those turfes which they call Britten and whereof they raise great bankes and dikes against the violence of the encroching Ocean it will be no absurdity if one should reduce this Huis te Britten unto the same originall and suppose it to have been so called because it was fensed with banks of turfe or of Britten set opposite against the forcible surges of the waves which when the surges of the sea had once pierced and overthrowne it may seeme to have borne downe this house also But let them see to these matters who have a deeper insight into the nature of the word and the situation of the place and pardon me withall if here I have thrust my sickle into anothers harvest In that coast there be also Isles of Zeland compassed about with the rivers Scaldt Maese and the Ocean Touching which I will onely adde thus much that the name of Valachria for of these this is the chiefe as Lemnius Levinus conjectureth came from our Welshmen Over against Zeland Tamis the goodliest and noblest river of Britain dischargeth himself into the sea in which place Ptolomee setteth TOLIAPIS and CAUNA or CONVENNON Of Toliapis which I suppose to be Shepey see in Kent Of Convennos I have spoken in Essex in the page 441. More Eastward without Tamis mouth there lieth along before the Iland Tenet a place full of shelves and sands and very dangerous for saylers which they call Goodwins sands where our Annales doe record that in the yeere 1097. an Iland which was the patrimony of Goodwin Earle of Kent was quite swallowed up and sunk in the sea concerning which John Twin writeth thus This land was very fruitfull and full of plenteous pastures lying somewhat lower and more flat than Tenet out of which there was a passage by boat or barge three or foure miles long This Iland in an unusuall tempest of windes and boisterous fury of stormy raines and uncooth rage of the sea was drowned and lieth overwhelmed with sand cast up after an incredible manner and without all recovery is turned into a middle or doubtfull nature of land and sea For I wot wel what I say because one while it wholly floateth and another while at a low water after an ebbe it beareth walkers upon it Haply this is Toliapis unlesse you had rather read Thanatos for Toliapis and in some copies we read it Toliatis of which we have treated in Kent See the 345. page In this very place the huge vastnesse of the sea gathereth into such a straight that the gullet of the Ocean betweene the firme land of France and Britaine is not above thirty miles over which Streights some call the Narrow sea of Britaine others of France and the bound it is of the British sea which by little and little removeth the shores farther asunder that were in manner meeting together and by the driving backe of the lands on both sides equally floweth between Britaine and France from East to West At this beginneth the British sea wherein first you meet with the Iland or byland rather Selsy in the English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is according to Bede The Iland of Sea-calves which in our tongue we call otherwise Seales But hereof I have spoken already in the page 308. Somewhat higher lieth the Isle Vecta in the British tongue Guith in the Saxon 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 for the Saxons tearmed an Iland 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 wee The Isle of Wight and Whight Whereof also I have written before in the 273. page Of Portland likewise which now is no Iland but annexed to the continent I have treated heretofore in Dorsetshire in the page 210. Hence will I cut over to the shore of France just against it where from Beer-fleet in Normandy unto the midst of the Channell the sea by the Mariners saying is paved as it were and overspred with rocks and cragges among which William sonne to King Henry the first and heire both of England and of Normandy whiles he crossed the seas out of Normandy into England in the yeere of salvation 1120. was by woefull shipwracke together with his sister his base brother and others of the floure of the nobility drowned Whereupon a Poet of that age thus versified Abstulit hunc terrae matri maris unda noverca Proh dolor occubuit Sol Anglicus Anglia plora Quaeque priùs fueras gemino radiata nitore Extincto nato vivas contenta parente Him from the land his mother kind the Sea a stepdame caught Now Englands Sunne alas is set weepe England weep for thought And thou that didst enjoy the beames of twofold light before Since Sonne is gone content thy selfe with father and no more Funus plangendum privat lapis aequoris unus Et ratis una suo principe regnaduo O dolefull day one rocke in Ocean maine One barke of Prince bereaveth kingdomes twaine And another Poet at the same time hammered out these verses touching that shipwracke Dum Normannigenae Gallis claris superatis Anglica regna petunt obstitit ipse Deus Aspera nam fragili dum sulcant aequora cymba Intulit excito nubila densa mari Dumque vagi caeco rapiuntur tramite nautae Ruperunt imas abdita saxa rates Sic mare dum superans tabulata
per ultima serpit Mersit rege satos occidit orbis honos Whiles Normans after victories of Noble Frenchmen won Make saile for England God himselfe withstood them all anon For as the rough and surging waves they cut with brittle barke He brought upon the troubled sea thicke fogges and weather darke Whiles sailers then in coasts unknowne were driven and hal'd astray Upon blind rockes their ships were split and quickly cast away Thus when salt water entred in and upmost hatches caught Drown'd was that royall progeny worlds honour came to naught More Westward certaine Ilands affront France yet under the Crowne of England and first of all upon the coast of Normandy or the Lexobii whom our Britans or Welshmen tearme Lettaw as one would say Littorales that is Coast-men lieth Alderney which in the Records is named Aurney Aureney and Aurigney so that it may seeme to be that ARICA which in Antonine according to the King of Spaines copie is reckoned among the Isles of the British sea Others hold it to be that EBODIA or EVODIA whereof Paulus Diaconus only hath made mention who had small skill of this coast which he placeth thirty miles from the shore of Seine and telleth of a rumbling roaring noise of waters falling into a gulfe or Charybdis that is heard a far off This Alderney lieth in the chiefe trade of all shipping passing from the Easterne parts to the West three leagues distant from the coast of Normandy thirty from the nearest part of England extended from South East to the North West and containeth about eight miles in circuit the South shore consisting of high cliffes The aire is healthfull the soile sufficiently rich full of fresh pastures and corn-fields yet the inhabitants poore through a custome of parting their lands into small parcells by Gavelkind The towne is situate well neere in the midst of the Isle having a parish Church and about 80. families with an harbour called Crabbic some mile off On the East side there is an ancient fort and a dwelling house built at the charge of the Chamberlans for the fee farme of the Isle was granted by Queene Elizabeth to G. Chamberlane son to Sir Leonard Chamberlane of Shirburne in Oxfordshire when he recovered it from the French And under this fort the sand with violent drifts from the Northwest overlaied the land so that now it serveth thereabout most for conies I know not whether I were best to relate of a Giants tooth one of the grinders which was found in this Iland of that bigge size that it equalled a mans fist seeing Saint Augustine writeth of one that himselfe saw so bigge that if it were cut in small peeces to the proportion of our teeth it seemed it might have made an hundred of them Hence Westward there runneth out a craggy ridge of rockes which have their severall eddies and therefore feared of the Mariners who tearme them Casquettes Out of one of the which properly named Casquet there gusheth a most sweet spring of fresh water to the great comfort of the Iland-fishermen beating up and downe hereabout At these to remember incidently that the memorie of a well-deserving Patriot may not perish the fleet which Iohn Philipot Citizen of London set forth and manned at his owne private charges had a glorious victorie over a rabble of Pirates who impeached all trafficke taking their Captaine and fifteene Spanish ships that consorted with them Which worthy man also maintained 1000. souldiers at his owne pay for defence of the Realme against the French who sore infested the Southern coast in the beginning of the reigne of King Richard the second to omit his great loanes to the King and other good and laudable offices to his country Under these lieth Southward CAESAREA whereof Antonine hath written scarce twelve miles distant from Alderney which name the Frenchmen now have clipped so short as the Spaniards have CAESAR AUGUSTA in Spaine for they call it Gearzey like as Cherburgh for Caesarisburgus and Saragose for Caesar augusta Gregorius Turonensis calleth it the Iland of the sea that lieth to the City Constantia where hee reporteth how Pratextatus Bishop of Roan was confined hither like as Papirius Massonius tearmeth it the Isle of the coast of Constantia because it butteth just upon the ancient city Constantia which may seeme in Ammianus to be named CASTRA CONSTANTIA and in the foregoing ages Moritonium For Robert Montensis writeth thus Comes Moritonii id est Constantiarum if that be not a glosse of the transcriber For Moritonium which now is Mortaigne is farther distant from the sea This Isle is thirty miles or thereabout in compasse fenced with rockes and shelves which are shallow places dangerous for such as saile that way The ground is fertile enough bearing plenty of sundry sorts of corne and breeding cattaile of divers kindes but sheepe especially and most of them with faire heads carrying foure hornes a peece The aire is very wholsome and healthy not subject to any other diseases but agues in September which thereupon they tearme Settembers so that there is no being for Physicians here And for that it is scarce of fuell in steed of fire wood they use a kind of Sea weed which they call Uraic deemed to be that Fucus marinus which Plinie mentioneth and groweth every where about in craggy Ilands and on rockes most plenteously This being dried at the fire serveth for to burne with the ashes whereof as it were with Marle and the fat of the earth they dung commonly their fields and fallows and thereby make them very battle fruitfull Neither are they permitted to gather it but in the spring and summer season and then upon certaine daies appointed by the Magistrate At which time with a certaine festivall mirth they repaire in numbers from all parts to the shore with their carres as also to the rockes neere unto them they speed themselves a vie with their fisher-boats But whatsoever of this kind the sea casteth up the poore may gather for their owne use The inward parts of the Isle gently rise and swell up with pretty hills under which lye pleasant vallies watered with riverets and planted with fruitfull trees but apple trees especially of which they make a kind of drinke Well stored it is with farme places and villages having within it twelve Parishes and furnished on every side with creekes and commodious rodes among which the safest is that in the South part of the Isle betweene the two little townes Saint Hilaries and Saint Albans which harbour hath also a little Iland belonging to it fortified with a garison having no way of accesse unto it wherein by report Saint Hilarie Bishop of Poictiers after he had beene banished hither was enterred For the towne dedicated to his name just over against this Iland is accounted the principall towne both in regard of the mercate and trafficke there as also of the Court of Justice which is
there established On the East-side where it faceth the citie Constantia there is seated upon a steep rocke a most strong castle with an haughty name called Mont Orgueil which is much beholden unto King Henry the fifth who repaired it The Governour of the Isle is Captain thereof who in times past was called the Custos of the Isle and in Henry the third his reigne had a yeerely pension of 200. pound On the South side but with longer distance betweene Saint Malo is to be seene having taken that new name of Maclou a very devout man where before time it was called the city Diablintum and in the ancient Notice ALETUM for in a Manuscript of Isidor Mercator we read thus in expresse termes Civitas Diablintum c. that is the city Diablintum which by another name is called Aletum As for the inhabitants they freshly practice the feat of fishing but give their minds especially to husbandry and the women make a very gainfull trade by knitting of hose which they call Iarsey Stockes or Stockings As touching the politicke state thereof a Governour sent from the King of England is the chiefe Magistrate hee appointeth a Bailiffe who together with twelve Jurats or sworne Assistants and those chosen out of the twelve severall parishes by the voices of the Parishioners sitteth to minister justice in Civill causes in criminall matters he sitteth but with seven of the said sworne assistants and in causes of conscience to be decided by equity and reason with three Twenty miles hence North-west lieth another Iland which Antonine the Emperour in ancient time named SARNIA we at this day Garnsey lying out East and West in fashion of an harpe neither in greatnesse nor in fruitfulnesse comparable to Iersey for it hath in it only ten parishes yet is this to be preferred before it because it fostereth no venemous thing therin like as the other doth It is also better fortified by naturall fenses as being enclosed round with a set of steepe rockes among which is found that most hard and sharpe stone Smyris which we terme Emerill wherewith Goldsmiths and Lapidaries clense burnish and cut their precious stones and glaziers also divide and cleave their glasse Likewise it is of greater name for the commodiousnesse of the haven and the concourse of merchants resorting thither For in the farthest part well neere Eastward but on the South side it admitteth an haven within an hollow Bay bending inward like an halfe Moone able to receive tall ships upon which standeth Saint Peters a little towne built with a long and narrow street well stored with warlike munition and ever as any warre is toward mightily replenished with Merchants For by an ancient priviledge of the Kings of England here is alwaies a continuall truce as it were and lawfull it is for Frenchmen and others how hot soever the warre is to have repaire hither too and fro without danger and to maintain entercourse of trafficke in security The entry of the haven which is rockie is fortified on both sides with castles On the left hand there is an ancient bulwarke or block-house and on the right hand over against it standeth another called Cornet upon an high rocke and the same at every high water compassed about with the sea Which in Queene Maries daies Sir Leonard Chamberlane Governour of the Iland as also under Queene Elizabeth Sir Thomas Leighton his successour caused to bee fortified with new workes For here lieth for the most part the Governour of the Iland and the Garrison souldiers who will in no hand suffer Frenchmen and women to enter in On the North side there is La-vall a biland adjoining unto it which had belonging thereto a covent of religious persons or a Priory On the West part neere unto the sea there is a lake that taketh up a mile and halfe in compasse replenished with fish but Carpes especially which for bignesse and pleasant taste are right commendable The inhabitants are nothing so industrious in tilling of the ground as those of Iarsey but in navigation and trafficke of merchandise for a more uncertaine gaine they be very painfull Every man by himselfe loveth to husband his owne land so that the whole Iland lieth in severall and is divided by enclosures into sundry parcels which they find not onely profitable to themselves but also a matter of strength against the enemie Both Ilands smile right pleasantly upon you with much variety of greene gardens and orchards by meanes whereof they use for the most part a kinde of wine made of apples which some call Sisera and we Sydre The inhabitants in both places are by their first originall either Normans or Britans and speake French yet disdaine they to be either reputed or named French and can very well be content to be called English In both Ilands likewise they burne Uraic for their fuell or else sea-coals brought out of England and in both places they have wonderfull store of fish and the same manner of civill government These Ilands with others lying about them belonged in old time to the Dukedom of Normandy but when as Henry the first King of England had vanquished his brother Robert in the yeere of our Lord 1108. he annexed that Dukedom and these Ilands unto the kingdome of England Since which time they have continued firme in loialtie unto England even when John King of England being endited for murdering Arthur his Nephew was by a definitive sentence or arrest of confiscation deprived of his right in Normandy which he held in chiefe of the French King yea moreover when the French had seized upon these Isles hee through the faithfull affection of the people twice recovered them Neither revolted they when Henry the third King of England had for a summe of money surrendred his whole interest and right in Normandy And ever since they have with great commendation of their constancy persisted faithfull unto the Crowne of England and are the onely remaines that the Kings of England have of the ancient inheritance of William the Conquerour and of the Dutchy of Normandy although the French otherwhiles have set upon them who from the neighbour coast of France have hardly this long time endured to see them appertaine not to France but to England And verily Evan a Welsh Gentleman descended from the Princes of Wales and serving the French King surprized Garnesey in the time of King Edward the third but soone lost it And also in the reigne of King Edward the fourth as appeareth by the records of the Realme they seized upon the same but through the valour of Richard Harleston valect of the Crowne for so they termed him in those daies they were shortly disseized and the King in recompence of his valorous service gave unto him the Captainship both of the Iland and of the castle And in the yeere 1549. when England under King Edward the sixth a child was distressed with domesticall troubles Leo Strozzi Captaine of
Constables a great family ibid. High Constables of England 621. c Constantius Chlorus riddeth Britaine of Usurpers 73. elected Emperor 74. espoused Helena mother of Constantine the great 74. putteth her away ibid. weddeth Theodora ib. a godly Emperour ibid. died at Yorke ibid. buried there 703 Constantine the Great Emperor 74. his warlike exploits 75. advanceth Christian religion 75 proclaimed Emperor in Yorke 703. e. f. his renowned titles 76. first entituled Dominus Noster 76. taxed for subverting the Roman Empire ibid. altereth the state of the government ibid. Constantine the younger ruleth Britaine 77. slaine by his brother Constans ibid. Constans an Emperiall Monke 264. c. 85. is killed ibid. Constans Emperour in Britaine 77. holdeth a councell at Sardica ibid killed by Magnentius ibid. Constantius the yonger Emperor ibid. favoureth Arianus 78. holdeth a councell at Ariminum 79 Constantine created Emperor in Britaine for the name sake 270. d. 85. his exploits ibid. his gourmandise ibid. Constantine a tyrant among the Danmoni● in Britaine 113 Constitutions of Clarinton 251 Conwey a river 667. b. 669. d Conwaie a towne 669 ● Convocation 181 Converts their house 428. b Sir Th. Cooke a rich Maior of London 441. f Counts Palatine See Earles Th. Cooper Bishop of Lincolne 540. c Copes a family 376. e Copper or Brasse mynes 767. a Coper as made 217. ● Copland or Coupland 765. d Iohn Copland or Coupland a brave warrior 775. e. made Baneret 171 Coquet the river 812. e Copthall 439. ● Corbets a great family 592 e 594 e Corbet a forename ibid. Sir Wil. Cordall Knight 462. e Corinaea and Corinaeus 184 Corinaeus and Gogmagog 200 c Coritani 504 Cornden hill 662 b Cornelius Nepos for Ioseph of Excestre 32 Cornavii 614 560 Cornovaille in little Britaine 184 Cornage 787 a Cornwalleies a family 467 f Cornwailes of Burford highly descended 590 f Cornwall a dukedome 198 c why so called 184 Cornwallians soone subjected to the Saxons 114 Corpus Christi Colledge in Oxford 383 a Court Barons 168 Cornishmens manners 186 Cornish Chough 188 Corham in Coverdale 729 Corbridge 808 b Corby Castle 777 f Corstopitum ibid. Corve a river 590 c Corvesdale ibid. Coway stakes 296 a Cowling Castle 329 d Cosham 243 c Coughton 565 ● Covinus 18 Costrells See Esquires Coy-fi a convert Bishop of the heathen 711 c Coteswold why so called 364 c Henry Courtney Marquesse of Excester 206 a Courtneyes knights 206 b. Earls of Denshire 207 208. Courtneyes 190 f Cottons knights 313 ● Coverts knights ibid. Cottons of Cambridge-shire knights 491 a Cottons of Cunnington 526 c Sir Robert Cotton of Cunnington a learned knight highly descended 500 d Covetousnesse complained of 562 ● Coventry 567 c Coventry Lords 568 a Councell of the Marches 590 e Cow a Towne West and East 274 c Cowbridge 643 c Cradiden 493 a Cranburn 217 b Crecan or Crey a river 328 f Creeke Lade 241 e Credendon or Credon 396 Creplegate in London 413 d Cressy a family 550 ● Crevequeurs 331 c Crawdundale 761 f Crew a place and notable family 608 c Creden a river 203 d Crediantun or kirton ibid. Craven 694 b Creake in Cliveland 723 e Le Craux 21 Croco or Croke a river 609 b De Croeun or de Credonio a Barony 532 f Crococalana 537 b Croidon 302 b Cromwells knights 497 d Sir Th. Cromwell 526 b. Earle of Essex 454 e Cromer 479 a Croft Castle 619 Crofts knights an ancient family 619 f Crophuls a family 620 c Crouch a creek● 443 b Crowland 530 b Crowland Abbey 530. the foundation and building of it 531 c. d. e Cruc Maur 537 c Cruc Occhidient ibid. Cuckmere 315 d Cucul 19 Saint Cudman 313 c Cuentford a br●oke in Coventry 567 d Culchil 747 c Culfurth 461 ● Cumberland 765 Kings and Earls of Cumberland 788 a Cumbermer Abbey 607 e. 799 Cumero 21 Cuneglasus a Tyrant in Britain 113 Cuno what it signifieth 98 Cunobelinus 418 a Cunobelin 447 b Curia Ottadinorum 818 b Curiales what they were 771 a Cursons a family 553 c Sir Rob. Curson Baron Imperiall ibid. Robert Curthose an unfortunate Prince 361 d Curcies 221 a Iohn Curcie his vertues ibid. Curtius Montanus a dainty teothed glutton 342 e Saint Cuthberts parcimony 735 Saint Cuthbert Bishop of Lindefarn ibid. Cworwf 20 Curwens knights 769 a Custodes or captaines in every shire 159 Cuthred King of the West Saxons 373 f Cyprus called Keraftis 184 Cyrch 18 Cythariftes 21 D DAbernoun 297 b D'acre Barons of Gillesland 594 c Dacre castle 776 c D'acre Baron ibid. Leonard D'acre a Traitour and Rebel 784 f Dacor a river 776 c D'airells or D' Hairells 369 e Dalaley castle 593 Dalison or D'alanson a family 544 c Dalrendini 126 Dan or Daven a river 608 d Danby 721 f Danbury 446 b Dancastre 690 b Danewort See Walwort Danes infest the coasts of England 139. why so called 141 they land in England c. 142 Danes massacred by the English 143 Their detestable sacrifice 142 Danegelt atribute ibid. Danmonii 183. whence their name commeth ibid. Daning-schow a riveret 608 e Dantesey a town 243 c Danteseys knights ibid. Dantrey towne 508 a. the fort there ibid. Henry Baron Danvers of Dantesey 243 c Darby shire 553 Darby towne 554 c Darby Lords and Earles 558 d Darcies de Nocton c. 543 c Darcies Barons de Chich 451 c Darent river 328 d Darenford or Dartford 328 ● Darwent a river and city 709 Davenport or Damport a place and notable family 609 a Saint Davids land 653 c Saint Davids an Archbishops See 653 d David bishop refuteth the Pelagians 657 b Davery or de alta rupe 312 b Dawnes of Utkinton foresters of Delamere 607 a Deben a river 465 b Depenham or Dapenham ibid. d ee a river 594 c. whence so called 602 c. Dee-mouth 604 b Dee head 666 b Devonshire or Denshire 199 a Walter and Robert Devreux Earles of Essex 455 a Iohn Dee a famous Mathematician 746 c Decimes See Tithings Decuman a Saint 220 e. murdered ibid. Decuriones what they were 771 Saint Decombs 220 e Deale or Dole 343 a Deanries how many in England 161 Deanforest 358 b Deane a place 514 a Deanes a family ibid. Deifying of Roman Emperours 70 Deiri that is Hol-der-Nesse 136 De la-mares 233 a De la mere forest 607 a De-la-pree a Nunnery 509 b D' eincourts Barons of Blankenay 535 f Edmund Baron D'eincourt desirous to perpetuate his name 536 a De la cres Abbay 787 c Iohn De la Pole Earle of Lincolne slaine 549 a. 388 f De la bere an ancient family 620 c D'elveseyes a family 607 e Delgovitia 711 b Delgwe what it signifieth 711 b De la val Baronie 811 f De la ware 364 c Dench-worth townes 281 a Denelage 153.159 Dengy or Dauncing hundred 443 c Dengy towne ibid. Dengy Nesse 352 a Dennington castle 284 a Edward Deny Baron of Waltham 439 b Denisses 206 c Denbigh-shire 675 Denbigh towne 675 d Denbigh Baron
d Ela Countesse of Salisbury 244 a Queene Elizabeth an excellent Prince 256 f. her vertues 292. 297. 298. her tombe 430. b Ellandunum 446. d Elen a river 769. c Elden hole 557. e Elenborough 769. c Elephants bones found in Britain 447. c Ellen hall 584. c Eliot his conceit of the name of Britaine 5 Ellesmer a Baronie 592. a Sir Th. Egerton Baron Ellesmer ibid. North Elmham a Bishops See 466. d Elmeley 650. e Elmesley 722. d Elmet a territory 694. e Elmore 362. b Elesly 485. d Elnemouth 769. c Eleutherus Pope 67 Elrich roade 532 Elsing 482. a Eltham 327 Eston 501. e Elvan 67 Elwy a river 679. d Emildon 814. b Emme Mother to King Edward Confessor cleereth her selfe of incontinency 211 Enderbies 401 Hugh Enermeve of Deping 533 Englishmen converted become zealous Christians 137. Studious in Liberall Sciences ib. Enfield 437 English names what they signifie and imply 139 Engelrame de Coucy first Earle of Bedford 402. f England 138 English Saxons returne into Germany ibid. brought thither military knowledge learning and religion ibid. Engins to assault in old time 400 England full of vices 143 England divided into Counties or Shires by Aelfred 138 Little England beyond Wales 652 English men whence they tooke name 138 Englishmen the guard of the Emperors of Constantinople 154 English tongue of what continuance 133 English Maior 681. e Entweissel name of a place and Gentlemen 746. a Equites Aurati that is Knights whereupon so called 174 Erdburrow 522 Erdessey 620. e Erdeswick 583. e Eriry mountaines 667. d Ernald Bois or de Bosco 396. b Erewash a river 555. c Eryngum in Cornwal 186 Escrick 707. ● Eske a river 765. ● 781. c Eslinton 813. c Espringolds 400. d Eresby 541. e Ermin-streete 64 or Erming-street 485. c. 501. f Erminsul or Irmunsull 64 Esquires what degree of Gentry 176 Esquires of five sorts ibid. Steph. de Eschalers a Baron 485. ● Essex 439 Essex Earles 453 Essex Cheeses 443. c Essexes Knight 283. f Henry de Essex became a Monk 681. d Essex a family 443. a Essendum 18 Essendon 526. d Esterford or East-Sturford 446 Ester or Easter celebrated on the Lords day onely 118 Eston aliâs Estanues ad turrim 444. e Eston Nesson 506. c Estotovils an honourable family 533. b Estre aliâs Plaisy 445. a Ethered vanquished and slaine 550. e Esturmies or Sturmies 254. f Ethelbert an insufficient King 143 Ethelbert King Martyr 618. e Etocetum 582. e Ethelbury 728. d K. Etheldred a vertuous Prince 216. b. his tombe ibid. Ethelward a writer 130 Covesham Evesham or Eisham 577. e Eudo Sewer to K. Henry the first 459. e Eudo a noble Norman 541. d Evel a towne 221. b Evelmouth 225. d Evenlode a river 376. b Vale of Eisham or Evesham 577 Ever or Eure a towne 394. b Evers Barons ibid. e Everingham a Baron 550. d Evers Barons whence descended 453. b Evers of Axholm 813. b Evers noble Barons 738. e Ewelme or Newelme 388. c Ewias 631. c Ewias Castle 617. d Eustach de Hach a Baron 246. b Eustow aliâs Helenstow 40● a Exchequer Court 177.178 Ex a river 203. b Exceter Colledge in Oxford 381 Exceter 203. f Exceter Dukes 205. d Exceter Marquesse 206. a Exceter Earle ibid. a Exminster ibid. b Exmore 203. c Eythorp in Buckingham-shire 395. f F. OF Faculties the Court 181 Fairefax a family of gentlemen 692 b. 723. d Falco or Falques Brent a faithlesse men 400. c. 812. b Falcons of the best kind 644. b Falkesley bridge 582. a d Falemouth 189 Fanhop Baron 401. d Farendon 279. e Farmors Knights 506. e Fastineog 666. a Fastidius a Bishop of Britaine 84 Faulconbergs Barons 714. a Faustus a good sonne of a bad father 642. c Fawey 190 Fawsley 508 Faux what it signifieth 692 Fekenham Forest 574. f Feldings Knights 519. f Fenwick Hall 809. d Fenwicks a family ibid. Ferrars Barons of Grooby 520. f Henrie Ferrars of Baddisley a gentleman well descended and as well seene in Antiquities 568. d Rob. Ferrars how enterred 569 Lords Ferrars of Chartley 584. f Fernham Roiall 394. d Fernham why so called 294. e Fetherston Haugh 799. e Fetherstons a family ibid. Fettiplaces a family 220. ● 281. Feversham 334. d Fieldon a part of Warwick-shire 561. b. 223. a Feldon 561. b Fenis or Fienlesse 223. a. 316. b Fienes Barons Dacres 813. b Sir Richard Fienes or Fenis Baron Say and Sele 376. f The File 753. a File what it signifieth 715. a Files ibid. Filioll 217. c Finborrow 607. b Finchdale 742. a Firr trees found in Axelholm 544. b Fisburgings 819. c A Fish poole or Mere by Saint Albans dried up 411. c Fishes with one eye a peece 667 Fishgard 654. c Fish pond foreshewing the death of Monks 609. c Fittons a family 610 Fitz-Alans Earles of Arundel 309.310.589 f Fits-herberts an ancient family 553. d Sir Anthony Fitz-herbert ibid. a most famous Lawier 359. b Fitz-Hugh Baron 730. d Fitz-Harding Lord of Berkley 362. d Robert Fitz-Haimon slaine 368 Fitz-Teke 406. c Robert Fitz-Stephen the first of Norman race that attempted Ireland by way of Conquest 657. f Rob. Fitz-Walter de Clare 407 Fitz-Walters Barons 446. c Fitz-Walters ensigne-bearers of London 215. d Fitz-Lewis a family 442. e Geffrey Fiz-Peter Earle of Essex 454. b. a worthy Iusticer of England ibid. c Fitz-Stephen a writer 427. b Fitz-Paine Baron 215. d Fitz-Warins 281. b Sir Fulque Fitz-Warin 598. b Fitz-Williams an ancient family 690. a Rich. Fitz-Punt a Norman 618 Henry Fitz-Roy Earle of Nottingham duke of Richmond 551. d Flamborough head 714. ● Flamstead 414. b Flatbury 578. b Plavi●s Sanctus 341. d Fleame dike or Flight dike 490 Fleet a riveret in London 423. f Flemings a family 646. e Fleming 202. d. 755. d Flemingston or Flemston a towne 646. e Flemings planted in Wales 654.652 d Flemish high way in Wales 652 Flint shire 679 Flint castle 680. d Flint Earles 681. f Flixton 715. b Flixton or Faelixton 468. b Floddon an hill 816. a Floddon field ibid. Florus a Poet ibid. Flotes a kind of boates 597. b Faelix Bishop of East England 466. c. 480. c Fluor found in Darby shire 557 Foix a family 759 Foliambs a great family 556. b Foliots a familie 575. c 482. a Folkingham 535. a Folkstone 349. b A Font of Brasse in Saint Albans Church 412 d Forcatulus his conceit of the name Britaine 5 Fordington 212. d Ford castle 815. e The Foreland of K●nt 342. d Fornesse 754. ● Fornesse Fels 755. a Sir Iohn Fortescue 396. e Forses or waterfalls 759. f Forefenses 780. the first ibid. the second 790. a. the third ibid. b. the fourth 16. c Forestwhat it is and why so called 293. c Forest lawes ibid. d Forests in Sussex 320. d Fortunie a Tourneament 407. d Fortunate Ilands 4 Forty foot way 511. f. 515. a. 64 Fosse dike 537. f Fosse wad what it is 569. c Fosse a river 702. b
Solis ab Ortu Gens Deo dicata per quem sic sum renovata Let Church-men and religious folke from time that Sun doth rise Blesse Adam Port by whom I am rebuilded in this wise Segontiaci Basingstoke Basing Saint Iohn Out of an old Missall of the Family of Powlet Vines in Britaine Vopiscus Barons Sands Odiam Matthew Paris Vindonum Silcester Sepulchres of honour Constantine Emperour chosen in hope of his name * Bononia * Heire apparant Iulianus Nobilissimus Sel what it is Armes of the Blewets Bainards and Cusantes Kings-cleare Sidmanton * Specula Beacon Newport The Inhabitants In Vespati cap. 4. Anno D. 5 Bede lib. 4. cap. 13. Bede lib. 4. cap. 16. Lords of the Isle of Wight Christ-Church * Or Gaule France Comius Attrebatensis In stratagemat Asserius * Ouze Farendon Guil. New brig●sis Abbendu● or Abing● H●●ic●● Quintus quarto fundaverat anno Rex 〈◊〉 Burford super undas atque Culhamford K. Henry of that name the fifth the fourth yeare of his reigne both Burford Bridge and Culhamford did found on River mayne Now Ashbury neere to White horse hill Besides Lee. Fetiplace * Ouse Vicount Lisle See the Earles of Shrewsbury Pusey Denchworth Wantage Fitzwarin Tamisis or Tamis the River Sinodum Bretwell Robert Montensis Gallena Wallengfor Domesday booke Records of Wallengford 〈◊〉 Co●itis Of the honor of Wallengford in Testa ●evilli in the Exchequer A most grievous Pestilence Moules-ford Carew Aldworth The River Kenet Hungerford 1. p●rs dupl patent Norm 6. ● 5. Barons of Hungerford Widehay * De S. Am● Barons de Amand. Beaucha● De S. ●ma● Spine Newbury Lambor * Almeshouse Aldermaston Reading Maude the Empresse King Henry the second King Richa the first Sunning Bisham Grandison Maidenhead Bibroci * Bray Windesore Order of the Garter Shame to h● that evill thinketh Soveraig● Founders of the Order Almes-Knights Wickham his Apophthegm * Or free Eaton Barons of Windsore Queene Elizabeth Queene Elizabeths Mot or Empresse * Flowing or rolling * Or the 〈◊〉 Windsor Forrest Chases or Forrests Forrest what it is and whence so called Protoforestarius Iustices of the Forrests The Kings Knight The Kingdome of West-Saxons Geguises Rhey Oking or Woking William Ockham Pater No●●nalium Where Cae● crossed the Tamis Coway-stakes The river Mole Anas a river in Spaine Ockley Gatton Rhie-gate Holmesdale Holmecastle * Or Inquisitions * In Baronia sua de Conquesta Angliae Effingham The Swallow or Swallow hole A bridge on which flockes of sheepe are pastured L. Bray Richmond Both the place and the village before the time of King Henry the Seventh called Shene Edward the Third The death of Queene Elizabeth 1603. How farre the Tamis ebbeth and floweth Why Tamis ebbeth and floweth so far within Land * The seventh * The Third None-such * Vandalis Woodcote Noviomagi Noviomagus Croidon Beddington * Addington Aguilon Merton Wimbledon Putney See Earles of Essex Kennington Lambith * Hardy-Cnute Southworke Barons Saint Iohn of Lagham Sterborow Lord Borough or Burgh Earles of Surrie who also are called Earles of Warren Earles of March in France Downes Anderida wood Iron Glasses Selsey Scales Here be the best Cockles slaves Amberley See the Earles of Shrewsburie * D' aubeney some write him de Albinet● and de Albiniac● Earles of Arundell and of Sussex Charta antiqua X. in 29. Parl. 11. H 6 229. 4. Edw. 3 See before the Earles of Surrey * As having married his daughter Spigurnell what it is Petworth The Percies See in the end of Northumberland Dautry Burton Horsham Michelgrove Shelley Offington The familie of the Wests * De Cantelup● Barons de la Ware Cisburie Cimenshore Brood-water Lord Camois Camois A wife given and granted to another Parlam 30. Edw. primi The forme of a Bill of a kind of Divorcement called Kepudiu● Shoreham Ederington Slaugham Lewes * For custome or rent and roll Domesday booke * Or redeemeth the offence * Cluniaco The monument of Magnus a Dane 1263. The battaile of Lewes 232. Others call it The three Charles Downes Pevensey Florentius wigorniensis pag. 452. Composition betweene King Stephen and Henrie of Anjoy Honor de Aquila Robert de Monte Herst Monceaux Herst what it is Regist of the Monasterie of Roberts-bridge The familie of the Fienes Patent 37. Henrie 6. An. 14. Ed. 4. See Normans before A mercate kept on the Sunday Ashburnham Hastings * Cinqueports 21. Edw. 1. 3946. 1578. Ancenses Earles of Ew * Esc. 7. H. 6. Enquisition 5. Edw. 1. William Lord Hastings 26. Henry 6. Baron of Hoo and Hastings Winchelsey Camber-Castle * Rhie * The River Rother Barons Burghersh Baron Echingham Roberts Bridge or Rotherbridge Bodiam Baron Buckhurst Earles of Sussex See Earles of Arundell * With the beard 21. Henry 8. The Kingdome of the South-Saxons Carion corruptly read in Diodorus Siculus Hereof commeth Canton in Heraldrie for a corner and the Helvetians countreys were b● the French called Canton Rumney Marsh. P●a● 15. ca. 25. Cherries were brought over into Britaine about the yeare of our Lord 48. 236. Prowesse of Kentishmen Iulius Cesar. See Romans in Britaine Page 34. * Ravensburn An old great Campe. Depe-ford Magnignot Green-wich The same that Danes Eltham The Booke of Durham The Breach 1527. Leisnes * Scurvy-grasse 1527. The herbe Britannica * Friseland * See afterward in the British Isles concerning the Arrenat or Armory of the Britaines * Sevenoke Knoll Otford Dartford Swane-scomb that is King Swanes Campe. Graves-end Inquis 35. E. 3 Barons of Cobham Clive at Ho. Medway Weald Penshurst Sidney Vicount Lisl● See in Barke shire Philip Sidney Tunbridge * The Lowy of Tunbridge * Whet-stones Mereworth Vagniacae Madus Len●h●● Bocton M●lherb Baron Wotton Fin. Mich. xi E. 2. Leeds castle The family ● Crevequer * Ailesford Horsted Catigern his Sepulchre Boxley Wrotham Malling Leibourn Baron Leibourn Briling Baron Say Durobrevis In an ancient table set forth by Welser Roibis Ceaster what it is Rochester * Niding William of Malmesbury Textus Roffensis An antient Manuscript booke of that church * The French called him Canol The Kings Navy Toliatis an Isle Shepey Iu. ●et Queene Borough Tenham Chery gardens Feversham Pits made in Kent * Reculver Regulbium * Hadrian●● Iunius Stoure river Ashford Wie Page 4157. Chilham Fulbert of Dover 1306. * Fel-borough As we call Iuliana Gilian Laberias Durus a Tribune Durovernum * Welsh Canterbury Augustine the Apostle of the Englishmen Pall what it is Anno. 7093. Hackington Saint Stephens Fordich * The first English Nunne Elham Inq. 2. E. 3. Herdes * Hides in English An hides as it is thought consisteth of an hundred acres called in latine in old time Familia Mansa and Manens Lapis tituli Now Elflet 596. Minster 1217. Lewis of France Chronicles of W. Thorn Rhutupia Portu● Trutu●ensi● * The younge● * Caer Leon Clemens Maximus * See how these verses are englished in pag. 83. There bee that under 〈◊〉 name of Rhi●●tupine would
language is called Nesse The river Vedra or Were Witton Barons Evers or D'Eure Auk-land Vinovium Binchester As concerning the Mother Goddesses See in Lancashire Anno Christi 236. Votum solvit li ben merito .i. Paid his vow willingly and duly Branspath Castle Salt stones Dunelmus Durham or Duresme Gallilee For no woman might enter into Durham Church Beere-parke 1346. Battaile of Nevils Crosse Shrirburne Hospitall Finchdale Lumley Barons Lumley Chester upon the street Condercum Hilton Castle Glasiers first in England Ebchester Saint Ebba Saint Tabbs Girwy Iarrow Bede Basilicae Saint Bede Bishops of Durham See the Earles of Northumberland Mosses * Cespites Lanca-shire b●ufes Rochdale Cockley Mancunium * Centurionis Trafford Mosses when they come Firre trees in Caesars time grew not in Britaine Holecroft * Pincerne Winwicke Fishes digged out of the ground Ormeskirk Stanleys Earles of Derby Duglesse a riveret Wiggin Biggin what it is The family of the Hollands The Hollands coat of Armes * With flowres de Lyz. Bellisama Penigent Pendle hill Clowdesbery Penninae Alpes Pen in British what it is Clithero Whaley Riblechester In the house of Thomas Rhodes * Haply Decúrio Alae Asturum susceptum solvit ● votum libens lubens meritò Deae Matres Mother Goddesses See in the Bishopricke of Durham Plutarch in M. Marcellus Altars of the Gentiles Genes 8. Haply C. Al. for Centurio Alae Sarmatarum Out of William Lambards notes Ribodunum Coccium Penworth otherwise called Penverdant Preston Houghton Walton Ander-nesse The file Grenhaugh c●●stle A new mann of making 〈◊〉 Quick-sands The river Lu●● or Lone Salmons Over-burrow Bremetonacum Kernellare what it is Hornby castl● Barons Mon●●Eagle The Gunpowder treason Lancaster Fournesse Carthmell Winander-mere The fish Chare The booke of Fournesse Aldingham Harringtons Lords of La●●caster * Pictavensis or of Poictiers Walter Hemingford Ro. Hoveden pag. 373. b. Earle of Lancaster King of Sicily * De Cadurcis Dukes of Lancaster John of Gau King of Castile King Henry the fourth Parliament Roll 1. H. 4. The Barony of Kendale Lords of Kendale History of Fournesse The family o● Lancaster L. Par of Kendale Earles of Ke●dale Catadupe or Forses Ambleside Amboglana Baron Whatton Heartly castle * Burgus subs●xeto Burgh under Stanmore Burgus Vegetius lib. 4. cap. 10. Aballaba Apelby Whellep castle Gallatum Maiden way A. for A. Northren men call that a whin which the Southern men a burre Brovoniacum Brougham * Pientissimo Augusto Isan-parles Hanging wals of Marke Antony Fines Term. Mich. R. 6. H. 8. Vipounts Armes Earles of Westmorland Copeland Millum castle Raven-glas Hard-knot neer Wrinofe Irt a riveret See Plinie Pearles Saint Bees Egremont castle Lords of Copeland Liber Inq. The sea side fensed Moresby Deo Sylvano Cohors secunda Lingonum cui praest G. Pompeius M. Saturninus Morbium Hay castle Copper or brasse mines Veines of gold gold and silver See Ploidens Reports Keswike Skiddaw hill Guasmoric Epist. ad Sever. Catechumeni or hearers Armes of the Lucies and Percies * Pikes * Luces Culwen commonly Curwen Under Honorius and Arcdius Olenacum Decuriones Isidor l. 9. c. 4. Volantium Under Commodus Anno Christi 193. Gentiles or Heathen altars See in Lancashire Publii filius * Diis Manibus * Faciendum curavit Moricambe Holme Cultrain Michael Scotus Castra Exploratorum See as touching the Areans afterward in the Picts Wall Ala Augusta Gordiana at Il-Kirk * Iovi optimo maximo * Iovi optimo maximo * Iovi optimo maximo * An. Christ. 243 Wigton Thoresby * For Aram ex vot● Which the Scots call Solway Frith Blatum-Bulgium Bulnesse The beginning of the Picts Wall Solway Frith Trees within the ground Burgh upon sands 1307. Called Morvils de Burgh upon Sands Liber Inq. Edward the first Solway Frith The river Ituna or Eden History of Malrosse Dacre Barons Dacre Perith. Called in old time Haia de Plompton Petriana * Annos * Haply Faciendum procuravit * Peradventure in Cohorte * Dum. * Fratri filiae Titulum posuit Kirk Oswald Armanthwayt Corby castle Wetherall Virosidum Linstock Crosby Greystock The ancient Genealogie Barons de Greystock Mines of Brasse Congavata Carlile Luguvallum Lucus and Lugus what they signifie among the Britans and old Gauls Lugdunum Lucotecia or Lutetia in France The old Itinerarie lately imprinted sheweth that Lugdunum implieth a Desirable hill * Or de Micenis * Or de Micenis * Tumulum * Carissima Andrew Harcla Earle of Carlile * Or girdle Grayhams Barony of Liddel Liddesdale ●attaile at Sol●m mosse 1542. Batable ground Leven Scalby Castle Askerton Brampton Brementuracum Armaturae Veget l. 2. c. 7. In the yeere of Christ 216. * Fortissimo Caesari Lords of Gillesland Out of an old Missal Also R. Cook Clarenceux calleth him Radulph .i. Raulph So doth Manuscript bookes of Fountaines and Holme Maiden way Alone Kings of Cumberland * Florilegus Captaines or Rulers of Cumberland Earles of Cumberland Frontier senses or Forts writers termed Clusurae because they excluded the enemies and Praetenturae because they were set against or affront the enemies See P. Pithoeus in adversariis lib. 1. cap. 14. The Limits or Bounds of the Empire Tit. 43. Vallo Limitis Hence come Stationes Agartae in Vegetius The first fore-fense Bodo●●ia and Glotta S. Austin de Civ Dei l. 4. c. 19. The second fore-fense Rota temporum The third Fense The fourth Fense Murus Vallum Lib. 1. c 5. Why lands were given to the Captaines of the Marches Marcellinus lib. 38. About the yeere 367. * M●gister Off●ciorum The wall betweene Edenborrow Frith and Dunbrit●on Frith About the yeere of Christ 420. Alciatus calleth it the Breviary of Theodosius Souldiers placed in garisons and along the Wall * In Vastis The Wasts Areani certain discoverers lib. 28. Cornage The high-high-land Sco●s at this day call their little barges Carroches * The Paris edition hath Scytica Vallem and meaneth haply the Scottish sea The policy and wisdome of the Roman in setting of this wall Plants medicinable and wholsome MAEATAE Valentia Wardens of the Marches Rank-riders Very many Baronies in Northumberland Sea-coales Hexam-shire The river South-Tine Joh. Fordon Scoto-Chronicon Ca●r Vorran Posuit libens merito Anno Christ. 259. These two inscriptions are yet to be seene in Sir Robert Cottons house at Connington The goddesse Suria Capitolinus Some will have her to be Juno others Venus Suetonius in Nero. cap. 56. Alon River Seaven-shale Gallana North-Tine Tin-dale True plane Rhedesdale Lawes * i. Duplares Numeri exploratorum Bremenii Aram instituerunt Numini cjus Caepione Charitino Tribuno votum solverunt libentèr meritò * Deo Mogonti Cadenorum numini Domini nostri Augusti M.G. Secundinus Beneficiarius Consulis Habitanci Primas tam pro se suis posuit Primas * Either promoted to that place by him or by a dispensation exempt from souldiers services Cohors prima Vangionum Testa Nevilli * In Vastis Nomades Sheales and Shealings Clipches Cilurnum
Valentia Barle Clan-Ca●r Beare O Swilivant O Mahon Notium Promontorium The river I●rnus Earles of Desmond Vodiae a people Coriandi a people Muskeray Carbray Spaniard landed in Ireland and from thence driven Kerry-wherry Vicount Butiphant Baron Roch Vicount Fermoy Yoghall The Kay The kingdome of Corke Lismor Christian a Bishop Ard-mor Dessee Dungarvan Poers Barons of Curraghmore Waterford Earle of Waterford Steward of Ireland An. 28. H. 8. Conilagh Knoc-Patric Knight of the Valley Anno 11. Reg. Eliz. Limirick Clan-William Baron of Castle Conell Clan-Gibbon 13. Elizab. Fitz-Geralds Emely The lower Ossery The county of Holy Crosse of Tipperary Wood of the Crosse. Cassile Baron de Cahir Clomell Earle of Caricke Anno 9. Ed. 2. Ormond Butlers Earles of Ormond Anno 2. Ed. 3. Earle of Tipperary Wolf-men The disease Lycanthropia County of Kilkenny Upper Ossery Baron of upper Ossery Thomas Towne Callan Inis Teog The Statute of Absenties Barony Ydron Cavanaghs O More Out of a pamphlet of Patrick Finglas Hook-Tower Lease Mary Burgh Donemaws Rheba Baronet of Rheban Offaly Philips towne Kildar S. Brigid Ch. 9. Ed. 2. N. 12. Barons Fitz-Eustace Pat. 2. Ed. 4. Carausius Tintern Monastery Hieron a Promontory Cauci O Tooles O Birns Arklo Glynnes Wicklo lately made a county 1606. The Grounds Old-Court Poers Court Liffy river which Girald calleth Aven-Liff * That is the river L●ff Eblana Dublin Who also is named Abloicus Aulafus and Olavus Ioscelin of Furnes in the life of S. Patricke Lib. 2. verum Anglicar c. 26. Kaies * Upon Ausonius l. 2. c. 22. Dammensis All-Hallowes An University begun 1591. 13. May was the foundation laid 1593. Scholars were first admitted 1320. A Manuscript of Baron Hoult Thomas Court Statut. Parli 18. H. 8. c. 15. Tole-stale Marquesse of Dublin Pr. p. Pat. anno 9. Rich. 2. m. 1. Saint Laurence Barons of Houth Malchid Fingall Th. Stukely Marquesse of Leinster Laberus Barnwell Baron Trimlet stoun Baron Slane Navan Baronet of Navan Bishop of Meth. Molingar Barons Delvin Nogents Lords of Meth. Genevile Constables of Ireland Anale O-Pharoll River Senus or Sineus Shannin and Shannon Macolicum Malc Rigia Which others call Mare Bredunicum Nagnatae Gangani Concani Auteri Killaloe Catarracta Bunraty Clare Earles of Twomond Ilands of Arran Bed l. 4. c. 4. Ecclesiast hist. Logh-Corbes Gallwey The battell of Knoctoe 1516. Aterith Birminghams Clan-Ricard Earles of Clan-Ricard Archbishoprick of Toam or Tuen Maio. Killaley Bishoprick of Killaley Lib 4. cop 4. Logh-Mesk Galloglasses Mac-William who also is called Mac-William Eughter Cuttings Coyne Liverey c. Cause of Rebellions in Ireland Richard Bingham Nagnata Diploma l. 2. c. 6 Girald Cambren de expugnatio Hibern p. 787. Curlew hills Barony of Boyle Balin Tober Rog. Hoveden Anno 1175. pag. 312. John Perot Lord Deputy 1585. Uriel in Latin Urgalia Tredagh Mellifont Abbey Dundalk Carlingford Birmingham who also is called Brimicham Earle of Louth Baron Louth East Breany O Reily Kilmore Bishopricke Poore Bishops Lough-Ern Bal-tarbet Belek Mac-Mahon Fitz-Urse 1590. Charles Blunt L. Mont-joy Fewes Orry Mont-Norris Armach S. Patricke Vita Patricii Marianus Scotus The Irish shaving See Bed l. 5. c. 22. S. Bernard in the life of Malachy Lib. 1. Ceremoniar sacrar Sect. 14. Isanium the Promontory Dunum Downe Saint Patricks Sepulcher Robert de Monts de Immutatione Ordinis Monacho●um Banchor Abbay Pelagius the Arch-heretick In the life of Malachias Bishoprick of Coner Savage Upper Clane-Boy Knoc-Fergus Nether Clane-Boy Isle of Magie Glinnes Bissets James Mac-Conell The Rowt Mac-Guilly Surley Boy Chairly Boy Donluse River Ban. Glan-Colkein Salmons O-Cahan Uraights The election of O-Neal Scottish Ilanders Upper Tit-Oen Bishopricke of Cloghter Dunganon Baron of Dunganon Fort of Black-water Patricks Purgatory Regia Reglis Derry Robogdii Robogdium Promontory Vennicnii River Vidua Boreum Promontory Sligah ● Donegall O-donell Scoti In the life of S. Patrick Earles of Ulster An. 7. Ioannis See pag. 624. and 725. Ireland neglected Scoto-Chronicon lib. 12. cap. 26. Shan or John O Neale Thomas Earle of Sussex Lord Deputy Sir Henry Sidney Lord Deputy 1565. 1567. Hugh O-Neal Earle of Tir-Oen 1588. 1595. Die 12. Iunii Lord Generall of the Army Baron Burough Lord Deputie 1597. 1598. Robert Earle of Essex Lord Lievtenant 1599. 8 September 1599. 28. Septemb. 1599. Charles Blunt Lord Deputy 1600. The manners of the Irishry or wild Irish. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 but in the Epitome 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is feeding upon herbes and weeds O prefixed to the names of the Noblest men in Ireland by way of excellency Brehons Profession● hereditary Tanistry Girald Cambren Galloglasses Kernes Barritus Water-cresses Shamroots This place is corrupted in the copie The whole yeere out of an old fragment Haply Holl●wood Gresholme Stockholme and Scalmey Silimnus Bernacles Annales of Th. Otterborn Anno 7. H. 4. Scottish or westerne Iles. Earles of Orkney Thule Thule for Britaine Island Lib. 2. belli Gothici Shetland which some call Hethland Bergos Nerigon The frozen sea or Cronium Lindis-farne Holy Iland Farn Isle Bede in the life of Cuthbert Saxon Ilands Lib. 7. Birchanis Borkun The British Armory or Store-house Holland coast Britten huis Portus Morinorum Britannicus The Chamavi dwelt thereby as appeareth out of the Embassages of Eunapius Burgus what it is Zosimus l. 4. Saxons in Holland Janus Douza in his Nomenclator Britten an herb Zeland See pag. 333. 441. Toliapis Caunus Canvey See in Essex Shepey Goodwin Sands Some call it Lomea The British narrow sea Alderney Casquettes Gerzey Castra Constantia Moritavum Uraic Fucus marinus Sarnia Garnsey Haply Granon● by a transposition of letters which the N●●titia placeth i● the Tract of Armorica Smyris Normandy lost Tillet Serke Set-Iles Barsa Basepole Where the British sea is deepest Lisia by transposition of leters Silia * Sacrum Promontorium Non usque navibus we read in the notes of Paris Stella Maria. Ulpian lib. 7. de Mathematicis Axantos Ushant Siambis Mariners cal it the Seame Veneti Insulae Vene cae Vannes Venna Caro i. Charles Fi●shing as He●gardus saith Nesidae * Samnitum Bacchus Oleron Uliarus Lex Rhodia Admirall of England Hereditary territories in France belonging to the Crowne of England
as certaine lands were held in Coperland neere Dover by service to hold the Kings head betweene Dover and Whit-sand when soever hee crossed the Sea there And Lewis the younger French King when he came in devout pilgrimage to visit Thomas of Canterbury besought that saint by way of most humble intercession that no passenger might miscarry by shipwracke betweene Vitsan and Dover as who would say that at the same time that was the usual passage to and fro neither in truth is this narrow sea else where more streightned although it is to bee supposed that they who faile betweene in passing over did not respect the neerer way and shorter cut in sailing but the commodiousnesse of the havens in the one shoare and the other For even so albeit the sea be narrowest betweene Blacknesse in France and the Nesse in England yet now the ordinary passing is betweene Dover and Callais as in former ages before that Vitsan haven was dammed up the passage was betweene it and Dover and before that time betweene Rhutupiae and Gessoriacum From whence Claudius the Emperour and the other captaines whom I have spoken of sailed over into Britaine This GESSORIACVM Pliny seemeth to call Portum Morinorum Britannicum peradventure for the passage from thence into Britaine Ptolomee in whom it hath crept into the place of Itium nameth it Gessoriacum Navale in which signification also our Welsh Britans commonly terme it Bowling-long that is Boloine the ship-road For that Gessoriacum was the very same Sea-coast towne which Ammianus calleth BONONIA the Frenchmen Bologne the Low-country men Beunen and wee Bolen I dare bee bold to aver and maintaine against Hector Boethius and Turnebus grounding my assertion both upon the authoritie of Beatus Rhenanus who saw an ancient military Map wherein was written Gessoriacum quod nunc Bononia that is Gessoriacum now called Bolen and also upon Itinerarie computation or account of the miles which answereth just to the distance that Antonine the Emperour hath put downe betvveene Ambiani and Gessoriacum But that which may serve in steed of all proofes The rablement of Pyrates serving under Carausius which the Panegirick Oration pronounced unto Constantius the Emperour reported to have beene inclosed and shut up within the walles of Gessoriacum and there surprised an other Oration unto Constantius Maximus his sonne relateth to have beene vanquished at Bononia so that Bononia that is Bolen and Gessoriacum must needs be one and the selfe same place and it may seeme that the more ancient name was vvorne out much about that time For it is not to be surmised that so grave authors unto the great Princes erred in the setting downe and naming of this place the memory thereof being then so fresh and that victory so glorious But what have I to doe with France Verily I have the more willingly ripped up the memorie of these matters for that the prowesse and valour of our Ancestours shewed it selfe often in this coast as who wonne and wrested both Calais and Bolen from the French And as for Bolen they rendred it backe againe at the humble request of the French King after eight yeares for a summe of money agreed upon But Callais they held 212. yeare in despight and maugre of the French Now returne wee to Britaine with full sailes and a favourable tide From Dover leaving the little Abbey of Bradsole dedicated to S. Radegund wherof Hugh the first Abbat was founder there runneth for five miles in length a continued cheine of chalky cliffes standing on a row hanging joyntly one to another as far as to Folkstone which was a flourishing place in times past as may appeare by the pieces of Roman coine and Britaine brickes daily there found but under what name it is uncertaine Probable it is that it was one of those towres or holds which in the reigne of Theodosius the younger the Romans placed for to keep off the Saxons as Gildas saith At certaine distances along the shore in the South part of Britaine Famous it was and much frequented by the English Saxons for religions sake by reason of a Monasterie that Eanswide daughter to Eadbald King of Kent consecrated there unto Nunnes But now it is a small towne and the greatest part thereof the Sea hath as it were parted away Howbeit it was the Baronie of the Family de Abrincis or Aurenches From whom it came to Sir Hamon Crevequer and by his daughter to Sir Iohn of Sandwich whose grand child Iulian by his sonne Iohn brought the same as her dowry to Iohn Segrave From thence as the shore turneth a front South West-ward Sandgate Castle built by King Henry the Eighth defendeth the coast and upon a Castle hill thereby are seene reliques of an ancient Castle More inward is Saltwood a Castle of the Bishops of Canterbury which William Courtney Archbishop of Canterbury enlarged And neere unto it is Often-hanger where Sir Edward Poinings Baneret a father of many faire bastards and amongst them of Thomas Lord Poining Lieuftenant of Bollen began to build a stately house but left it unperfect when death had bereft him of his onely lawfull child which he had by his lawfull wife the daughter of Sir I. Scot his neighbour at Scots-Hall where the family of Scots hath lived in worshipfull estimation a long time as descended from Pashely and Serteaux by Pimpe But to returne to the sea-coast neere to Sandgate Hith is situated one of the Cinque ports whereof it assumed that name which in the English Saxons tongue signifieth an haven or harbour although hardly it maintaineth that name now by reason of sands and the Sea withdrawing it selfe from it And yet it is not long since it first made any shew and that by the decay and fall of Westhyth a neighbour-towne Westward and which was sometime a Port untill the Sea in our great grandfathers daies retired from it So are Sea-townes subject to the uncertaine vicissitude of the Sea This Hith like as West-Hith also had their beginning from the ruine of Lime standing hard by which in times past was a most famous Port towne untill the sands that the Sea casteth up had choked and stopped the haven Both Antonine and the booke of Norrices called it PORTVS LEMANIS Ptolomee 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which being in Greeke a significative word the Copiantes or Copiers out of old bookes because they would seeme to supply the defect wrot it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and the Latin Interpreters following them translated it Novus portus that is New port or New haven whereas the proper name of the place was Limen or Leman like as at this time Lime Heere the Captaine over a company or band of Turnacenses kept his station under the Count or Lieuftenant of the Saxon shore And a Port way paved with stone called Stonystreet reacheth from hence toward Canterbury which one would easily judge to have beene a worke of the Romans like as the
doth the word import so it hath communicated that name unto the whole Country for heereupon the English men call it Caer-narvon-shire This is encompassed with a very small circuit of walles about it and in manner round but the same exceeding strong and to set it the better out sheweth a passing faire Castle which taketh up the whole West side of it The private buildings for the manner of that Countrey are sightly enough and the inhabitants for their courtesie much commended who thinke it a point of their glorie that King Edward the First founded their Citie that his Sonne King Edward the Second was heere borne and surnamed of Caer-narvon who also was of the English line the first Prince of Wales and also the Princes of Wales had heere their Chauncerie their Exchequer and their Iustice for North-Wales About seven miles hence by the same narrow Sea standeth Bangor or Banchor low seated enclosed on the South side with a Mountaine of great heighth on the North with a little hill so called A choro pulchro that is of a faire quire or as some would have it quasi Locus Chori that is as if it were the place of a quire Which being a Bishops See hath within the Diocese thereof 96. Parishes The Church was consecrated unto Daniel sometime Bishop thereof but that which now standeth is of no especiall faire building for Owen Glendoverdwy that most notorious Rebell who had purposed utterly to destroy all the Cities of Wales set it on fire for that they stood for the King of England and defaced the ancient Church which albeit Henry Deney Bishop of the same repaired about the time of King Henry the Seventh yet it scarcely recovered the former dignity Now the Towne is small but in times past so large that for the greatnesse thereof it was called Banchor Vaur that is Great Banchor and Hugh Earle of Chester fortified it with a Castle whereof I could finde no footings at all though I sought them with all diligent inquiry But that Castle was situate upon the very entry of the said narrow Sea Over the Menay or streight hereby King Edward the First that he might transport his Army into Mona or Anglesey whereof I must treat anon in due order went about with great labour to make a bridge but all in vaine Albeit Suctonius Paulinus conveyed over his Romane Souldiers long before into Mona his Horsemen at a Fourd and the Footemen in little flat botomed boates as we reade in Tacitus From hence the shore raising it selfe with a bending ascent runneth on by Penmaen-maur that is The great stony head a very exceeding high and steepe Rocke which hanging over the Sea when it is floud affourdeth a very narrow path way for passengers having on the one side huge stones over their heads as if they were ready to fall upon them on the other side the raging Ocean lying of a wonderfull steepe depth under it But after a man hath passed over this together with Pen-maen bychan that is the lesser stony head he shall come to an open broad plaine that reacheth as farre as to the River Conwey which limiteth this Shire on the East side This River in Ptolomee after a corrupt manner of writing Greeke is called TOISOVIUS for CONOVIUS It issueth out of a Poole of the same name in the South border of the Shire and being pent in and as it were strangled runneth apace within a very narrow chanell as farre almost as to the mouth thereof breeding certaine Shell-fishes which being conceived of an Heavenly deaw bring forth Pearles and there giveth he name unto the Towne CONOVIUM which Antonine mentioneth And although it now lie all along and that name there be utterly extinct yet by a new name it doth covertly implie the antiquity For a very small and poore village standing among the rubbish thereof is called Caer hean that is the ancient City Out of the spoile and ruines whereof King Edward the First built a new Towne at the very mouth of the River which thereupon they call Aber-Conwey that is the mouth of Conwey which place Hugh of Chester had before-time fortified But this New Conovium or Aber-Conwey being strongly situated and fensed both with walls and also with a very proper Castle by the Rivers side deserveth the name rather of a prety Citie than of a Towne but that it is not replenished with Inhabitants Opposite unto this Towne and yet on this side of the River which is passed by ferry and not by bridge reacheth out a huge Promontory with a bending elbow as if nature purposed to make there a road and harbour for Ships which is also counted part of this Shire and is named Gogarth wherein stood Diganwy an ancient City just over the River Conwey where it issueth into the Sea which was burnt many yeeres agoe with lightning And I am of opinion that it was the City DICTUM where under the later Emperours the Captaine over the band of the Nervians Dictenses kept their guard And for that afterwards it was called Diganwy who seeth not that the said Canwey came of Conwey and from thence the English name Ganoc For so was that Castle called which afterwards King Henry the Third built in that place to bridle the Welsh Straight after the Normans comming into this Island Gruffin ap Conan governed this Country who being not able to represse the English troupes who swarmed into Wales yeelded otherwhiles unto the tempest and at length when with his integrity and uprightnesse he had regained the favour of King Henry the First he easily also recovered his owne lands of the English and left them to his heires successively untill the time of Lhewelyn ap Gruffith who when he had provoked his owne Brethren with wrongs and the English men with inrodes was brought to this passe that hee held this hilly Country together with the Isle Anglesey of King Edward the First as Tenant in Fee and paid for it yeerely a thousand Markes Which conditions afterward when hee would not stand unto and following rather his owne and his Brothers stubborne wilfulnesse than any good hope to prevaile would needes put all once againe to the hazard of warre he was slaine and so both ended his owne life and withall the British government in Wales It hath in it Parish Churches 68. ANGLESEY Conitatus olim MONA INSULA Druidum sedes Britannice Tir Mon THE ISLE MONA or of ANGLESEY THe County of Caer-Nar-von which I last ranne through tooke name as I said erewhile of the chiefe Towne therein and the said Towne of the Isle Mona which lieth over against it and requireth as it were of right that I should treat of it in his due place which unwillingly heeretofore I confesse I referred to the out Islands whereas by right it is to be placed among the Shires This Isle called of the Romans MONA of the Britans Mon and Tir-Mon that is the
land of Mon and Ynis Dowil that is A shadowy or darke Island of the ancient Anglo-Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and at last after that the English men became Lords of it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 ea and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 as one would say The English mens Island being severed from the Continent of Britaine with the small narrow streight of Menai and on all parts besides beaten upon with that surging and troublous Irish Sea lieth in forme unequall in length from East to West reaching out twenty miles in breadth scarce seventeene And albeit as Giraldus saith the ground may seeme dry and stonie nothing sightly and unpleasant and for the outward qualitie resembleth wholy the land Pebidia●c that lieth hard unto Saint Davids yet for the inward gift of nature it is farre unlike For above all the Coasts of Wales it is without comparison most plentifull of Wheat in so much as by way of a Proverbe they are wont to say of it in the Welsh language Mon Mam Cymbry which is as much in English As Mon is the mother of Wales because when all other Countries round about doe faile this alone with the exceeding fat soile and plentifull encrease of Corne was wont to sustaine all Wales In Cattaile also it is passing rich and sendeth out great multitudes It yeeldeth also Grind stones and in some place an earth standing upon Alum out of which some not long since beganne to make Alum and Coperose But when they saw it not answerable to their expectation at first without any farther hope they gave over their enterprise This is that most notable Isle MONA the ancient seat of the Druides attempted first by Paulinus Suetonius and brought under the Romane Empire by Iulius Agricola This Suetonius Paulinus under the reigne of Nero as Tacitus writeth made all preparation to invade the Isle Mona inhabited by a strong and stout Nation and then the receptacle of Fugitives He built Flat-bothom vessels because the Sea is shalow the landing-shore uncertaine Thus their footmen passed over and after them the Horsemen following by the shallow fourd or swimming where the waters were deepe with their Horses Against them stood the Enemies armies on the shore thicke set in aray well appoynted with Men and weapons and Women also running in to and fro among them like furies of Hell in mourning attyre their hayre about their eares and with firebrands in their hands Round about them also were the Druida who lifting up their hands to Heaven and powring out deadly curses with the strangenesse of the sight so daunted the Souldiers as they stood stock-still and not able to stirre their joynts presented their bodies unto wounds At length what with the exhortation of their Captaine and what with encouraging and animating one another not to feare a flocke of Franticke Women and fanaticall persons they displaied and advaunced forward their Ensignes Downe they goe with all in their way and thrust them within their owne fires Which done Garisons were placed in their Townes and the Groves consecrated to their cruell Superstitions cut downe For they accounted it lawfull to Sacrifice with the bloud of Captives and by inspection of Mens fibres and bowels to know the will of their gods But as Paulinus was busie in these exploits newes came unto him of a sudden revolt through the whole Province which stayed his enterprise Afterwards as the same Tacitus writeth Iulius Agricola purposed with himselfe to subdue the Island Mona from the possession whereof as I said before Paulinus was revoked by a generall rebellion of all Britaine But as in a purpose not prepensed before vessels being wanting the policie and resolutenesse of the Captaine devised a passage over causing the most choise of the Auxiliaries to whom all the shallowes were knowne and who after the use of their Country were able in Swimming to governe themselves with their Armour and Horses laying aside their carriage to put over at once and suddenly to invade them Which thing so amazed the Enemies who supposed they would passe over by Shipping and therefore attended for a Fleet and the tide that they beleeved verily nothing could be hard or invincible to men that came so resolute to Warre Whereupon they humbly intreated for Peace and yeelded the Island Thus by this service Agricola became famous indeed and of great reputation Many ages after it was Conquered by the English men and tooke their name as being called in old time in the Saxons language 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 now commonly Anglesey as one would say The English mens Island But seeing that Humfrey Lhuid in a very learned Epistle to that learned Ortelius hath restored this Island to the due name and dignitie there is no reason that any man heere should require my diligence Yet thus much will I adde unto the rest When the Empire of the Romanes in Britaine now was in declining and going downward some out of Ireland entred in by stealth into this Isle also and nestled there For besides certaine Mounts of earth entrenched about which they call The Irish mens cotages there is a place also named Yn Hericy Gwidil of the Irish men who as we finde it recorded in the booke of Triades under the leading of Sirigus put the Britans to flight in that place Neither was it grievously infested onely by the English men but also by the Norvegians Likewise in the yeere of our redemption 1000. King Aethelreds fleete having skoured the Seas round about the said Isle wasted it in all hostile maner After this the two Norman Hughes the one Earle of Chester and the other Earle of Shrewsburie greatly afflicted it and built Castle Aber-Llienioc for to restraine and keepe under the Inhabitants But Magnus the Norwegian arriving heere at the very same time shot the said Hugh Earle of Shrewsbury through with an Arrow and after he had ransacked the Island departed The English men moreover afterward from time to time invaded it untill that King Edward the First brought it wholly under his subjection There were in ancient time reckoned in it 363. Villages and even at this day it is well peopled The principall Towne therein at this time is Beaumarish which King Edward the First built in the East-side of the Isle vpon a marish ground and for the situation thereof gave it this goodly faire name whereas before time it was called Bonover who also fortified it with a Castle which notwithstanding may seeme never to have been finished the Governour whereof is the right Worshipfull Sir Richard Bulkley Knight whose courtesie toward me when I came to visite these places I cannot chuse but evermore acknowledge with most hearty thankfulnesse Hard unto Beau-Marish lieth Lhan-vays a famous religious house in times past of the Friers Minors unto whom the Kings of England shewed themselves very bountifull Patrons as well in regard of the Friers holinesse who there conversed as also because there that I may speake out of