is fourescore and two miles 3 The ayre is so cold and sharpe being bordering vpon the 〈◊〉 parts and for her shelter hauing but a wall of water They haue few woods onely they light sometimes vpon so subterranean trees buried vnder the ground by digging vp the earth for a â—lammie kinde of 〈◊〉 which they vse for fuell 4 The soile is reasonable fruitfull both for Cattle Fish and Corne yet it rather commendeth the paines of the people then the goodnesse of the ground for by the industry of the Inhabitants it â—eeldeth sufficiency of euery thing for it selfe and sendeth good store into other Countries It hath fields by good manuring plenteous of Barley and Wheat but especially 〈…〉 and from hence it comes that the people eate most of all Oaten-bread It beares abundance of 〈◊〉 and Flaxe and is full of mightie flockes of sheepe and other Cattell yet are they smaller in body then we haue in England and are much like to the Cattle in Ireland that are neighbouring vpon it 5 This commoditie makes this Iland more happie then we are here for the people are there free from vnnecessary commencements of Suites from long and dilatory Pleas and from friuolous feeing of Lawyers No Iudge or Clerks of the Court take there any penny for drawing Instruments or making of Processes All Controuersies are there determined by certaine Iudges without writings or other charges and them they call Deemsters and chuse forth among themselues If any complaint be made to the Magistrate for wrongs eyther done or suffred he presently taketh vp a stone and fixeth his marke vpon it and so deliuereth it vnto the partie plaintiffe by vertue of which he both cals his aduersary to appearance and to produce his witnesses If the case fall out to be more litigious and of greater consequence then can easily be ended it is then referred to twelue men whom they terme The Keyes of the Iland Another happinesse enricheth this Iland namely the securitie and gouernment thereof as being defended from neighbour enemies by Souldiers that are prest and ready for on the South-side of the I le stands Bala-Curi the Bishops chiefe place of residence and the Pyle and a Block-house standing in a little Iland where there is a coÌ„tinuall Garrison of Souldiers And it is so well managed for matter of rule and ciuill discipline that tuery man there possesseth his owne in peace and safetie No man liues in dread or danger of losing what he hath Men are not there inclined to robbing or theeuing or licentious liuing 6 The Inhabitants of this Iland are for the most part religious and louing to their Pastors to whom they doe much reuerence and respect frequenting daily to diuine Seruice without diuision in the Church or innouation in the Common-weale The wealthier sort and such as hold the fairest possessions doe imitate the people of Lanca-shire both in their honest carriage and good house-keeping Howbeit the common sort of people both in their language and manners come nighest vnto the Irish although they somewhat rellish and fauour of the qualities of the Norwegians 7 Things not worthy to be buryed in the graue of obliuion are that this Iland in the midst thereof riseth vp with hils standing very thicke amongst which the highest is called Sceafull from whence vpon a cleare and faire day a man may easily see three Kingdomes at once that is Scotland England and Ireland This I le prohibits the customary manner ofbegging from doore to doore detesting the disorders as well Ciuill as Ecclesiasticall of neighbour Nations And last not least that deserues to be committed to memory is that the women of this Country wheresoeuer they goe out of their doores gird themselues about with the winding-sheete that they purpose to be buried in to shew themselues mindfull of their mortalitie and such of them as are at any time condemned to dye are sowed within a sacke and flung from a rocke into the Sea 8 The whole Isle is diuided into two parts South and North whereof the one resembleth the Scotish in speech the other the Irish It is defended by two Castles and hath seauenteene Parishes fiue Market-Townes and many Villages A Chronicle of the Kings of MAN CHAPTER XLIIII IT is here very pertinent to the purpose to insert a small History of this Iland that the atchieuements heretofore had may not be vtterly buryed although they are waxen very old and almost torne from remembrance by the teeth of Time It is confessed by all that the Britaine 's held this Iland as they did all Britaine But when the Nations from the North ouerflowed those South parts like violent tempests it became subiect to the Scots Afterwards the Norwegians who did most hurt from the Northerne Sea by their manifold robberies made this Iland and the Hebrides to be their baunt and erected Lords and petry Kings in the same as is expressed in this Chronicle written as is reported by the Monkes of the Abbey of Russin A Chronicle of the Kings of MAN ANno Dom. 1065. Edward of blessed memory King of England departed this life and Harald the Sonne of Godwyn succeeded him in the Kingdome against whom Harald Harfager King of Norway came into the field and fought a Battle at Stainford-bridge but the English obtaining the victory put them all to flight Out of which chase Godred surnamed Crovan the sonne of Harald the blacke of Iseland came vnto Godred the sonne of Syrric who Raigned then in Man and honourably receiued him 2 The same yeare William the Bastard Conquered England and Godred the son of Syrric died his sonne Fingal succeeding him 3 An. 1066. Godred Crovan assembled a great Fleet and came to Man and sought with the people of the Land but receiued the worst and was ouercome The second time renewing his Forces and his Fleet he failed into Man and ioyned Battle with the Manksmen but was vanquished as before and driuen out of the field Howbeit what he could not at first bring to passe with power in those two seuerall onsers he afterward effected by policie For the third time gathering a great multitude together he arriued by night in the hauen called Raâ—sey and hid three hundred men in a Wood which stood vpon the hanging hollow brow of an hill called Sceafull The Sunne being risen the Manksmen put their people in order of Battle and with a violent charge encountred with Godred The fight was hot for a time and stood in a doubtfull suspence till those three hundred men starting out of the Ambush behinde their backes began to foile the Manksmen put them to the worst and forced them to flie Who seeing themselues thus discomfited and finding no place of refuge left them to escape with pitifull lamentation submitted themselues vnto Godred and besought him not to put to the sword such poore remainder of them as was left aliue Godred hauing compassion on their calamities for he had beene nursed for a time and brought vp among
of Cornwall whereunto resorted great concourse of people for deuotion and adoration thereof But when the Sunne-shine of the Gospell had pierced thorow such clouds of darkenesse it was perceiued apparantly to be onely hony clarified and coloured with Saffron as was openly shewed at Pauls Crosse by the Bishop of Rochester the twentie-fourth of Februarie and yeare of Christ 1538. And Alesbury for the holinesse of S. Edith was much frequented who hauing this Towne allotted for her Dowrie bad the world and her husband faâ—ewell in taking vpon her the veile of deuotion and in that fruitfull age of Saints became greatly renowned euen as farre as to the working of miracles These all in the stormes and rage of the time suffred such shipwracke that from those turmoiled Seas their merchandise light in the right of such Lords as made them their owne for wreacks indeed OXFORD-SHIRE CHAPTER XXI OXFORD-SHIRE receiueth her name from that famous Vniuersitie and most beautifull Citie Oxford and this of the Foord of Oxen say our English-Saxons though Leiland vpon a ground of coniecture will haue it Ousford from the Riuer Ouse by the Latines called Isis which giueth name likewise to the adioyning Iland Ousney The North point of this Shire is bordered vpon by the Counties of Warwicke and Northampton the East with Buckingham the West by Glocester-shire and the South altogether is parted from Bark-shire by Thamisis the Prince of British Riuers 2 The blessings both of the sweet-breathing heauens and the fruitfull site of this Counties soile are so happie and fortunate that hardly can besaid whether exceeds The aire milde temperate and delicate the Land fertile pleasant and bounteous in a word both Heauen and Earth accorded to make the Inhabitants healthfull and happie The hils loaden with woods and Cattle the vallies burthened with Corne and Pasturage by reason of many fresh springing Riuers which sportingly there-thorow make their passage whereof England Charâ—â—ll 〈◊〉 and Isis are chiefe which two last making their Bed of Marriage 〈…〉 together in one channell and name 3 The length of this Shire is from Cleydon in the North-west vnto 〈◊〉 in her South-East neere vnto Thamisis and amounteth almost to fortie miles the broadest part is in her westerne Borders which extending from the said Cleydon in the North vnto Faringâ—â—◠〈…〉 the Riuer Isis in the South are scarcely twentie sixe and thence growing narrower 〈…〉 in Circumference about one hundred and thirtie miles 4 The ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romans were the Dobuni part whereof possessed further Westernly into Glocester-shire and nearer Eastward betwixt the bowing of Thamises were seated the Ancalites who sent their submission vnto Iulius Caesar when report was made that the Trinobantes had put themselues vnder his protection whereof followed the Britaines seruitude vnder the proud yoke of the all-coueting Romans yet afterwards this Counties people being very puissant as Tacitus termes them and vnshaken by warres withstood Ostorius Scapula the Roman Lieutenant choosing rather to yeeld their liues in battle then their persons to subiection Of latter times it was possessed by the Mercian Saxons as part of their Kingdome though sometimes both the West-Saxons and the Northumbrians had the dispose of some part thereof for Beda affirmeth that K. Oswold gaue the then-flourishing Citie Dâ—rchester vnto Berinus the West-Saxons Apostle to be his Episcopall See whence the good Bishop comming to Oxford and preaching before Wulpherus the Mercian King in whose Court Athelwold the South-Saxons heathenish King was then present he with all his Nobles were conuerted to the faith of Christ and there baptized whereby Berinus became the Apostle also of the South Saxons 5 Otherplaces of memorable note either for actions therein happening or for their owne famous esteeme are the Râ—ll-rich-stones standing neere vnto Enisham in the South of this Shire a monument of huge stones set round in compasse in manner of the Stonchâ—nge of which fabulous tradition hath reported forsooth that they were metamorphised from men but in truth were there erected vpon some great victory obtained either by or against Rollo the Dane who in the yeare 876. entred England and in this Shire fought two Battles one neere vnto Hoch-Norton and a second at the Scier-Stane 6 Rodâ—os likewise remaineth as a monument of Oxfords high-stiled Barle but vnfortunate Prince Robert de Vere who besides the Earledome was created by King Richard the second Marquesse of Dublin and Duke of Ireland but at that Bridge discomfited in fight by the Nobles and forced to swimme the Riuer where began the downefall of his high mounted fortunes forbeing driuen forth of his Country lastly died in exile and distressed estate But more happie is this Countie in producing farre more glorious Princes as King Edward the Confessor who in Islip was borne Edward the victorious blacke Prince in Woodstocke and in Oxford that warlike Coeur de Lion King Richard the first the sonne of King Henry the second first tooke breath 7 Which Citie is and long hath beene the glorious seat of the Muses the British Athens and learnings well-spring from whose buing fountaine the wholesome waters of all good literature streaming plenteously haue made fruitfull all other parts of this Realme and gained glory amongst all Nations abroad Antiquitie auoucheth that this place was consecrated vnto the sacred Sciences in the time of the old Britaines and that from Greeke-lad a Towne in Wilt-shire the Academie was translated vnto Oxford as vnto a Plant-plot both more pleasing and fruitfull whereto accordeth the ancient Burlaus and Necham this latter also alledging Merlin But when the beautie of the Land lay vnder the Saxons prophane feete it sustained a part of those common calamities hauing little reserued to vphold its former glory saue onely the famous monument of S. Frideswids Virgin Conquest no other Schoole then left standing besides her Monasterie yet those great blasts together with other Danish stormes being well blowne ouer King Elfred that learned and religious Monarch recalled the exiled Muses to their sacred place and built there three goodly Colledges for the studies of Diuinitie Philosophie and other Arts of humanitie sending thither his owne sonne Ethelward and drew thither the yong Nobles from all parts of his Kingdome The first reader thereof was his supposed brother Neote a man of great learning by whose direction King Elfred was altogether guided in this his goodly foundation At which time also Asserius Meneuensis a writer of those times affaires read the Grammar and Rhetoricke and affirmeth that long before them Gâ—â—das Melkin Ninius Kentigern S. German and others spent there their liues in learned studies From which time that it continued a Seed plot of learning till the Norman Conquest â—ugulâ—us recordeth who himselfe then liued No maruell then if Matthew Paris calleth Oxford the second Schoole of Christendome and the very chiefe Pillar of the Catholike Church And in the Councell holden at Vienna it was ordained that in Paris Oxford Bononia and Salamanca
solitary combred with hilles as Copland is 3 The ayre is piercing and of a sharpe temperature and would be more biting were it not that those high hilles breake off the Northerne stormes and cold falling snowes 4 Notwithstanding rich is this Prouince and with great varieties thereof is replenished the hilles though rough yet smile vpon their beholders spread with sheepe and cattle the vallies stored with grasse and corne sufficient the Sea affordeth great store of fish the land ouer-spread with varietie of fowles and the Riuers feed a kinde of Muskle that bringeth forth Pearle where in the mouth of the Irt as they lie gaping and sucking in dew the Country people gather and sell to the Lapidaries to their owne little and the buyers great gaine But the Mines Royall of Copper whereof this Country yeeldeth much is for vse the richest of all the place is at Keswick and Newland where likewise the Blacke Lead is gotten whose plentie maketh it of no great esteeme otherwise a commoditie that could hardly be missed 5 The ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romans were the Brigantes whom Ptolemie disperseth into Westmorland Richmond Durham York-shire and Lanca-shire But when the Saxons had ouer borne the Britaines and forced them out of the best to seeke their resting among the vast Mountaines these by them were entred into where they held play with those enemies maugre their force and from them as Mariama doth witnesse the Land was called Cumber of those Kumbri the Britaines But when the State of the Saxons was fore shaken by the Danes this Cumberland was accounted a Kingdome it selfe for so the Flower-gatherer of Westminster recordeth King Edmund saith he with the helpe of Leoline Prince of South-Wales wasted all Cumberland and hauing put out the eyes of the two sonnes of Dunmail King of that Prouince granted that Kingdome vnto Molcolm King of Scots whereof their eldest sonnes became Prefects This Prouince King Stephen to purchase fauour with the Scots what time he stood in most need of ayd confirmed by gift vnder their Crowne which Henry the second notwithstanding made claime vnto and got as Newbrigensis writeth and laid it againe in the Marches of England since when many bickerings betwixt these Nations herein haue hapned but none so sore against the Scotish side as was that at Sallome-Mosse where their Nobilitie disdaining their Generall Oliuer Sinclere gaue ouer the Battle and yeelded themselues to the English which dishonour pierâ—ed so deeply into the heart of King Iames the fift that for griefe thereof he shortly after died 6 Many memorable Antiquities remaine and haue beene found in this County for it being the Confines of the Romans Possessions was continually secured by their Garrisons where remaine aâ— this day parts of that admirable wall built by Seuerâ—s also another Fortification from Wâ—rkinton to Elus Mouth vpon the Sea-shoare toward Ireland by Stilico raised when vnder Theodosius he suppressed the rage of the Picts and Irish and freed the Seas of the Saxons Pirats Vpon Hard-knot hill Moresby Old Carleil Pap-castle along the Wall and in many other places their ruines remaine with altars and Inscriptions of their Captaines and Colonies whereof many haue beene found and more as yet lie hid 7 The chiefest Citie in this Shire is Carlile pleasantly seated betwixt the Riuers Eden Petterell and Caud by the Romans called Luguvallum by Beda Luell by Ptolemy Leucopibia by Nuâ—tuâ— Caer-Luâ—lid and by vs Carlile This Citie flourishing vnder the Romans at their departure by the furious outrages of the Scots and Picts was deiected yet in the dayes of Egfrid King of Northumberland was walled about but againe defaced by the ouer-running Danes lay buried in her owne ashes the space of two hundred yeares vpon whose ruines at length Rufus set his compassionate eye and built there the Castle planting a Colony of Flemings to secure the Coasts from the Scots but vpon better aduisement remoued them into Wales After him Henry his brother and successour ordained this Citie for an Episcopall See whose site is placed in the degree of Longitude from the first West part 17. and 2. scruples and the Pole thence eleuated from the degree of Latitude 55. and 56. scruples 8 West from hence at Burgh vpon the sand was the fatall end of our famous Monarch King Edward the first who there leauing his warres vnfinished against Scotland left his troubles and soone missed life to his vntimely and soone lamented death 9 And at Salkelds vpon the Riuer Eden a Monument of seuentie seuen stones each of them ten foot high aboue ground and one of them at the entrance fifteene as a Trophie of Victory was erected These are by the By-dwellers called Long Megge and her daughters NORTHVMBERLAND CHAPTER XLII THe County of Northumberland hath on the South the Bishopricke of Durham being shut in with the Riuer Derwent and with Tyne the North is confined vpon Scotland the West vpon part of Scotland and part of Cumberland the East-side lyeth altogether vpon the Sea called Mare-Germanicum 2 The forme thereof is Triangle and differs not much in the sidings for from her South-East vnto the South-West-point are neere vnto 40. miles from thence to 〈◊〉 North-point are sixty miles and her base along the Sea-shoare 45. miles The whole in circumâ—â—â—â— is about one hundred fortie fiue miles 3 The Ayre must needs be subtile and piercing for that the Northernly parts are most exposed to extremitie of weathers as great winds hard frosts and long lying of snowes c. Yet would it be farre more sharper then it is were not the Germane Seas a ready meanes to further the dissolution of her Ice and Snow and the plentie of Coales there gotten a great helpe to comfort the body with warmth and defend the bitter coldnesse 4 The Soile cannot be rich hauing neither fertilitie of ground for Corne or Cattle the most part of it being rough and in euery place hard to be manured saue onely towards the Sea and the Riuer Tyne where by the great diligence and industrious paines of good husbandry that part is become very fruitfull 5 The ancient Inhabitants of this Country mentioned by Ptolemie were called OTTALINI OTTADENI and OTTADINI which by an easie alteration as M. Cambden saith if it had â—ene called OTTATINI signifying about the Riuer Tyne or on the further side of Tyne 〈…〉 this people were planted there would haue beene much consonance both with the name of the Inhabitants and the Position and Site of the Prouince 6 The chiefest commoditie that enricheth this Countie are those Stones Linthancraces which we call Sea-coales whereof there is such plentie and abundance digged vp as they doe not onely returne a great gaine to the Inhabitants but procure also much pleasure and profit to others 7 No place of this Prouince vents forth so many of these Sea-coales into other regions as Newcastle doth being the very eye of all the Townes in this County for it doth not onely minister reliefe
them sounded a retreat and prohibited his Host any longer perfuie He being thus possessed of the I le of Man dyed in the Iland that is called Ile when he had raigned sixteene yeares He left behinde him three sonnes Lagman Harald and Olaue 4 Lagman the eldest taking vpon him the Kingdome raigned seauen yeares His brother Harald rebelled against him a great while but at length was taken prisoner by Lagman who caused his members of generation to be cut off and his eyes to be put out of his head which crueltie this Lagman afterwards repenting gaue ouer the Kingdome of his owne accord and wearing the badge of the Lords Crosse tooke a iourney to Ierusalem in which he dyed 5 An 1075. all the Lords and Nobles of the Iland◠hearing of the death of Lagman dispatched Ambassadours to Murecard O-brien King of Ireland and requested that he would send some worthy and industrious man of the Bloud Royall to be their King till Olaue the sonne of Godred came to full age The King yeelding to their request sent one Dopnald the sonne of Tade and charged him to gouerne the Kingdome which by right belonged to another with lenitie and gentlenesse But after be was come to the Crowne forgetting or not weighing the charge that his Lord and Master had giuen him swayed his place with great tyranny committing many outrages and cruelties and so raigned three yeares till all the Princes of the Ilands agreeing together rose vp against him and made him flie into Ireland 6 An. Dom. 1111. Olaue the sonne of Godred Crouan aforesaid began his raigne and raigned fortie yeares a peaceable Prince He tooke to wife Affrica the daughter of Fergus of Gal-way of whom he begat Godred By his Concubines he had Raignald Lagman and Harald besides many daughters whereof one was married to Summerled Prince of Herergaidel who caused the ruine of the Kings of the Ilands On her he begat foure sonnes Dulgal Raignald Engus and Olaue 7 An. Dom. 1144 Godred the sonne of Olaue was created King of Man and raigned thiritie yeares In the third yeare of his raigne the people of Dublin sent for him and made him their King Which Mure-card King of Ireland maligning raised warre and sent Osibeley his halfe brother by the mothers side with 3000. men at Armes to Dublin who by Godred and the Dublinians was slaine and the rest all put to flight These atchieuements made Godred returned to Man and began to vse tyranny turning the Noblemen out of their inheritances Whereupon one called Thorfin vtters sonne being mightier then the rest came to Summerled and made Dulgal Summerleds sonne King of the Ilands whereof Godred hauing intelligence prepared a Nauie of 80. Shippes to meet Summerled And in the yeare 1156. there was a Battle fought at Sea on Twelfth day at night and many slaine on both sides But the next day they grew to a pacification and diuided the Kingdome of the Ilands among themselues This was the cause of the ouerthrow of the Kingdome of the Iles. 8 Ann 1158. Summerled came to Man with a fleet of fiftie three saile put Godred to flight and wasted the Iland Godred vpon this crossed ouer to Norway for ayde against Summerled But Summerled in the meane time arriuing at Rhinfrin and hauing gathered together fleet of 160 ships couerting to subdue all Scotland by the rust iudgement of God was vanquished by a few and both himselfe and his sonne slaine with an infinite number of people 9 The fourth day after Raignald began to raigne but Godred comming vpon him out of Norway with a great multitude of Armed men tooke his brother Raignald and be rest him both of his eyes and genitall members On the fourth Ides of Nouember An. Dom. 1187. Godred King of the Ilands dyed and his body was translated to the I le of Ely He left behinde him three sonnes Raignald Olaue and Yuar He ordained in his life time that Olaue should succeed him because he onely was borne legitimate But the people of Man seeing him to be scarce ten yeares old sent for Raignald and made him their King I his caused great diuision and many turbulent attempts betweene the two Brethren for the space of thirtie eight yeares which had no end till at a place called Tnigualla there was a battle strucke betweene them wherein Olaue had the victory and Raignald was slaine The Monkes of Russin translated his body vnto the Abbey of S. Mary de Fournes and there interred it in a place which himselfe had chosen for that purpose 10 An. 1230. Olaue and Godred Don who was Raignalds sonne with the Norwegians came to Man and diuided the Kingdome among themselues Olaue held Man and Godred being gone vnto the Ilands was slaine in the I le Lodhus So Olaue obtained the Kingdome of the Isses He dyed the twelfth Calends of Lune Anno 1237. in Saint Patrickes Iland and was buryed in the Abbey of Russin 11 Harrold his sonne succeeded him being foureteene yeares of age and raigned 12 yeares In the yeare 1239. he went vnto the King of Norway who after two yeares confirmed vnto him his heyres and successours vnder his Seale all the Ilands which his predecessours had possessed 12 An. 1242. Harrold returned out of Norway and being by the Inhabitants honourably receiued had peace with the Kings of England and of Scotland The same yeare he was sent for by the King of Norway and married his daughter In the yeare 1249. as he returned homeward with his wife he was drowned in a tempest neere vnto the coasts of Radland 13 An Dom. 1249. Raignald the sonne of Olaue and brother to Harrold began his raigne and on the thirtieth day there of was slaine by one Yuar a Knight in a meadow neere vnto the holy Trinitie Church and lyeth buryed in the Church of S. Mary of Russin 14 In the yeare 1252. Magnus the sonne of Olaue came to Man and was made King The next yeare following he went to the King of Norway and stayed there a yeare 15 In the yeare 1265. Magnus Olaues sonne King of Man and of the Ilands departed this life at the Castle of Russin and was buryed in the Church of S. Mary of Russin 16 In the yeare 1266. the Kingdome of the Ilands was translated by reason of Alexander King of Scots who had gotten into his hands the Westerne Ilands and brought the I le of Man vnder his dominion as one of that number HOLY ILAND CHAPTER XLV THis Iland is called Lindisfarne by the Riuer Lied that is opposite vnto it on the Coast of Northumberland Beda termeth it a Deiny Iland The Britaine name it 〈…〉 for that it twice euery day suffreth an extraordinary inundation and ouer-flowing of the Ocean in manner of an Iland which twice likewise makes it continent to the Land and returning vnto her watrie habitation layes the Shoare bare againe as before It is called in English Holy-Iland for that in ancient times many Monkes haue beene accustomed to
is of a supposed 〈◊〉 made an Iland yet diuers haue stifly held that once it was ioyned by an arme of land to the Continent of Gallia To which opinion Spencer farther alluding thus closeth his Stanza Ne was it Iland then ne was it paisde Amid the Ocean waues ne was it sought Of Merchants farre for profits thererem praisde But was all desolate and of some thought By Sea to haue beene from the Celticke Mainland brought 〈…〉 as a matter meerly coniecturall because it is not plaine that there 〈…〉 Ilands nor hils before Noahs floud I leaue at large Virgill surely of all Poets the most learned when describing the Shield which Vulcan forged in Virgils braine for Aeneas he cals the Morini people about Callis the outmost men doth onely meane that they were Westward the furthest Inhabitants vpon the Continent signifying withall that Britaine as being an Iland lay out of the world but yet not out of the knowledge of men for the Commodities thereof inuited the famous Greeke Colonies of Merchants which dwelt at Massilia in France to venture hither as hath beene well obserued out of Strabo 7 And as Iulius Caesar was the first Romane which euer gaue an attempt to conquer it so will we close its prayses with a late Epigram concerning the outward face of the Isle and the motiue of Caesars comming ALBIONIS vertex frondoso criâ—e superbit Arboreas frondes plurimas ales habet Graminean Montes â—undunt paseua pâ—â—em Et carpunt circum paseua gramenoues Sed LATII caruit potioribus Insula donis Victori potior Gloria ni LATIO Albions high tops her woody lockes farre shew With quiers of chanting Birds these Woods resounding Her Downes and Meadowes cladin verdant hew Meadowes and Downes with flockes and heards abounding Latium had greater Wealth yet Caesar thought To Brittish Glory Latiums Wealth worth nought 8 The diuision of Britaine concerning the gouernment and Territories thereof at such time 〈◊〉 Ceaser here arriued doth not sufficiently appeare Caesar himselfe makes so sparing mention therein that we haue little cause to beleeue Florus where he makes Lauie say that after Caesar had slaine 〈…〉 multitude of Britaines he subdued the residue of the I le but rather with exquisite Horaâ—e that he did not at all touch them as the word intactus doth in him purport 9 Kings they were and therefore that diuision which was here in Caesars time was into Kingdomes the old names of whole Nations as also the knowledge of their seuerall abodes hidden vnder the rabbish of so many ages haue of late with infinite labours and exquisite iudgement beene probably restored and abounded yet that no mans expectation and desire be too much frustrated reason wils that we briefly set forth such diuisions of the Land as many repute not ancient onely but authenticke 10 Our seeming ancient Historians begin it at Brute who to euery of his three sonnes gaue a part called presently after their names as Loegria to Lâ—â—rme his eldest sonne Cambria to Camber his second sonne and Albama to Albanist his third sonne And doubtlesse if there had beene more Nations of fame in this Iland Brute should haue had more sonnes fathered on him which conceit some ascribe to Monmouth holding that before him it was neuer so diuided 11 Ptolemie naming Britaine the Great and the Lesse hath beene by some mistaken as so diuiding this Iland into two parts but his proportion and distance from the Aequator compared with his Geographicall description will euince that he calleth this our Iland Great Britaine and Ireland Britaine the Lesse 12 Howbeit some later doe make indeed the South and more Champion to be called Great Britaine and the North more Mountainous Britaine the Lesse whose Inhabitants anciently were distinguished into the Maiatae and Caledonij and now by the Scots are into Heghlandmen and Lawlandmen But that Northerne clime being more piercing for the Romans constitutions and lesse profitable or fruitfull they set their bounds not farre from Edenburgh and altogether neglected the other parts more Northward 13 This neerer part of Britaine they then diuided into two parts for the more Southerne tract together with Wales Dio termeth the Higher and that more Northward the Lower as by the seate of their Legions doth appeare for the second Legion Augusta which kept at Caerleon in South-Wales and the twentieth called Victrix which remained at Chester he placeth in the Higher Britaine but the sixt Legion surnamed also Victrix resident at Yorke serued as he writeth in the Lower Britain which diuision as seemeth was made by Seuerus the Emperour who hauing vanquished Albinus Generall of the Britaines and reduced their State vnder his obedience diuided the gouernment thereof into two Prouinces and placed two Prefects ouer the same 14 After this againe the Romanes did apportion Britaine into three parts whose limits our great Antiquary assigneth by the ancient Archiepiscopall Seates grounding his coniecture on the saying of Pope Lucius who affirmes that the Ecclesiasticall Iurisdictions of the Christians accorded with the precincts of the Romane Magistrates that their Archbishops had their Sees in those Cities wherein their Presidents abode so that the ancient Seates of the three Archbishops here being London in the East Caerleon in the West and Yorke in the North Londons Diocesse as seemeth made Britaine prima Caerleon Britaine secunda and Yorke Maxima Caesariensis 15 But in the next age when the power of their Presidents began to grow ouer-great they againe diuided Britaine into fiue parts adding the three former Valentia and Flauia Caesarieâ—sis the first of which two seemeth to haue beene the Northerly part of Maxima Casarieâ—sis recouered from the Picts and Scots by Theodosius the Generall vnder Valence the Emperour and in honour of him named Valentia and Flauia may be coniectured to receiue the name from Flauius the Emperour sonne of Theodosius for that we reade not of the name Britaine Flauia before his time 16 So these fiue partitions had their limits assigned after this manner Britaine prima contained those coasts that lay betwixt Thamesis the Seuerne and the British Sea Britaine secunda extended from Seuerne vnto the Irish Seas containing the Country that we now call Wales Flauia Caesariensis was that which lay betwixt the Riuers Humber and Tyne and Valentia from the said Riuer and Picts wall reached vnto the Rampire neere Edenburgh in Scotland the farthest part that the Romanes possessed when this diuision was in vse For the seuerall people inhabiting all those parts with their ancient Names Borders whether designed by the Romans or the old Britaines together with our moderne Names and Shires answerable to each of them we will referre you to the Tables thereof elsewhere 17 This whole Prouince of Britaine as in our History shall appeare was highly esteemed of the Emperours themselues assuming as a glorious surname Britanicus comming thither in person ouer those dangerous and scarce knowne Seas here marrying liuing and dying enacting here Lawes
three Arch-Flamins whose seates were at London Caerlion and Yorke all of them conuerted by King Lucius into Christian Bishops Sees let vs onely insist vpon the three last by the same King appointed to be Metropolitanes ouer the rest among whom London is said to be chiefe whos 's first Christian Arch-bishop was Thean the builder of S. Peters Church in Cornehill for his Cathedrall as by an ancient Table there lately hanging was affirmed and tradition to this day doth hold Our British Historians doe bring a succession of fifteene Arch-bishops to haue sate from his time vnto the comming of the Saxons whose last was Vodius slaine by King Vortiger for reprehending his heathenish marriage with Râ—wâ—n the Daugher of Hengist At what time began the misery of the Land and of holy Religion both which they layd wast vnder their prophane feete vntill Ethelbert of Kent the first Christian Saxon King aduanced Christainitie Augustine to the Arch-bishopricke of Canterbury when London vnder Melitus became subiect to that See 6 At Caerlion vpon Vske in the time of great Arthur sate Dubritius a man excellently learned and of an holy conuersation he had sate Bishop of Landaffe a long time and with Germanus and Lupus two French Bishops greatly impugned the Pelagian Heresie infecting at that time the Iland very farre whose fame and integritie was such that he was made Arch-bishop of all Wales but growne very old he resigned the same vnto Dauia his Disciple a man of greater birth but greater austeritie of life who by consent of King Arthur remoued his Arch-bishops See vnto Meneuia a place very solitary and meete for meditation the miracles of the man which are said to be many changed both the name of the place into his owne and robbed Caerlion of her Archiepiscopall seate This See of S Dauids as in an ancient Register belonging to that Church is recorded had seauen Bishops Suffraganes subiect vnto it which were Exceter Bathe He eford Landaffe Bangor S. Asaph and â—eâ—nes in Ireland notwithstanding eyther for want of Pall carried into Britanny by Arch-bishop Samâ—son in a dangerous infection of sicknesse either by pouertie or negligence it lost that Iurisdiction and in the dayes of King Henry the first became subiect to the See of Canterbury 7 Yorke hath had better successe then eyther of the former in retayning her originall honour though much impaired in her circuit challenging to haue beene some time Metropolitane ouer all the Bishops in Scotland and although it was made equall in honour and power with Canterbury by Pope Gregory as Beda relateth and had twelue Suffragan Bishoprickes that owed obedience onely foure now acknowledge Yorke their Metropolitane but Canterbury the Superiour for William the Conquerour thinking it dangerous to haue two in like authoritie least the one should set on his Crowne and the other strike it off left Yorke to be a Primate but Canterbury onely the Prinâ—â—â— of all England 8 The Lichfield was made an Archiepiscopall See by Pope Hadrian the first at the suit of Offa the great King of Mercia is manifested by Mathew of Westminster vnto whose Iurisdiction were assigned the Bishoprickes of Winchester Hereford Leicester Sidnacester Helmâ—am and Dunwich and whose first and last bishop was Aldwin That Winchester also had intended an Archiepiscopall Pall the same Author recordeth when Henry Bloys of the bloud royall greatly contended with the Arch bishop of Canterbury for superioritie vnder the pretence of being Cardinall de latere to him an Archiepiscopall Pall was sent with power and authoritie ouer seauen Churches but he dying before that the designe was done the See of Winchester remained in subiection to Canterbury And that long before the See of Dorchester by Oxford had the Iurisdiction of an Arch-bishop is apparant by those Prouinces that were vnder his Diocesse which were Winchester Oxford Lincolne Salisbury Bâ—estow Wells Lichfield Chester and Excester and the first Bishop of this great circuit Berinuâ— was called the Apostle and Bishop of the West Saxons which in his next successor was diuided into two parts Winchester and Dorchester and not long after into Lichfield Sidnacester and Legecester and lastly the See remoued from Dorchester to Lincolne as now it is And thus farre for the diuision of this Realme both Politicke and Ecclesiasticke as it hath stood and stands at this day 9 But the whole Ilands diuision by most certaine Record was anciently made when Iulius Agricâ—la drew a trench or fortification vpon that narrow space of ground betwixt Edenbrough Frith and Dunbretton Bay making the Southerne part a Prouince vnto the Romane Empire Afterwards Hadrian the Emperour seeing perhaps the Prouince too spacious to be well gouerned without great expense drew backe these limits almost fourescore miles shotter euen to the mouth of the Riuer Tyne whence he fortified with a wall of admirable worke vnto Carlile which stood the Lands border while it stood as a Romane Prouince yet the conquering Saxons did spread againe ouer those bounds and as seemeth enlarged their gouernment to that first Tract as by this inscription in a Stone Crosse standing vpon a Bridge ouer the water of Frith appeareth I am a free March as Passengers may ken To Scots to Britaines and to Englishmen 10 But afterward William the Conquerour and Malcolme King of Scotland falling to an agreement for their limits arreared a Crosse vpon Stanemore where on the one side the portraiture and Armes of the King of England was sculptured and of the King of Scots on the other a piece whereof is yet remaining there neere to the Spittle thence called the Rev-Crosse there erected to be a Meare-stone to either Kingdome His successors also abolished the two partitions in the West whereby the Welsh became one Nation and Kingdome with the English It is also said that King Stephen to purchase friendship with the Scottish Nation gaue vnto their King the Countie of Cumberland who with it held both Westmorland and Northumberland but as Newbrigensis writeth he restored them to King Henry the second wisely considering his great power and right to those parts KENT CHAPTER III. KENT the first Prouince appearing in the South of this Kingdome is bounded vpon the North with the famous Riuer Thamisis on the East with the Germane Ocean on the South with Sussex and the narrow Seas and vpon the West and Sussex and Surrey The length thereof extended from Langley in the West vnto Ramsgate Eastward in the Isle of Thanet is about 53. English miles From Rother in the South vnto the Isle of Graine Northward the bredth is not much aboue 26. and the whole circumference about 160. miles 2 Informe it somewhat resembleth the head of a hammer or Battle-axe and lyeth corner-wise into the Sea by Strabo Caesar Diadorus and Ptolemie called Cantium of Cant or Angle or Corner either of Caine a British word which signifieth Bushes or Woods whereof that Countie in those former times was plentifully stored 3 The ayre though not very
Henry the first most stately beautified with a rich Monastery and strong Castle where in the Collegiate Church of the Abbey himselfe and Queene who lay both veiled and crowned with their daughter Maud the Empresse called the Lady of England were interred as the priuate History of the place auoucheth though others bestow the bodies of these two Queenes else-where The Castle King Henry the second razed to the ground because it was the refuge for the followers of King Stephen From whence the North-pole is raised in Latitude 51 degrees and 40 minutes and in Longitude from the first West-point obserued by Mercator 19 degrees and 35. minutes 7 A Castle and Towne of greater strength and antiquitie was Wallingford by Antonie and Ptolemie called Galtena the chiefest Citie of the Attribatians whose large circuit and strong fortifications shew plainly that it was a place of the Romans abode and since in a conceiued safetie hath made many very bold especially when the sparkes of Englands ciuill dissentions were forced to flame in case of the Crowne betwixt Maud the Empresse and King Stephen whither her selfe and associates resorted as their surest defence 8 But of farre greater magnificence and state is the Castle of Windsor a most Princely Palace and Mansion of his Maiestie I will not with Ieffrey affirme it to be built by King Arthur but with better authoritie say it was so thirsted after by the Conquerour that by a composition with the Abbat of Westminster whose then it was he made it to be the Kings Possession as a Place besides the pleasures very commodious to entertaine the King In this Castle that victorious Prince King Edward the third was borne and herein after he had subdued the French and Scots held he at one and the same time as his Prisoners Iohn King of France and Dauid King of Scotland Neither was it euer graced with greater Maiestie then by the institution of the most honourable Order of the Garter a signall Ornament of Martiall Prowesse the inuention thereof some ascribe to be from a Garter falling from his Queene or rather from Ioan Countesse of Salisbury a Lady of an incomparable beautie as she danced before him whereat the by-standers smâ—â—ing he gaue the impresse to checke all euill conceits and in golden Letters imbelished the Garter with this French Posie HONI SOIT QVI MALY PENSE And yet that worthy Clarenceaux alledging the booke of the first institution findes the inuention to be more ancient as when King Richard the first warred against the Turkes Saracens Cypres and Acon he girt the legs of certaine choise Knights with a tache of leather which promised a future glory to the wearers The most Princely Chappell thereof is graced with the bodies of those two great Kings Henry the sixt and Edward the fourth whom the whole Kingdome was too little to containo the one of Lancaster the other of Yorke where they rest now vnited in one mould with a branch of both those Houses euen King Henry the eight who there lyeth also interred and rests in the Lord. 9 Other places of note in this Shire are Sinodum in the North and Watham in the East both of them places of the Romans residence as by their monyes these oftentimes found appeareth Neither was Sunning the least in this Tract that had beene the Seat of eight Bishops before the See was translated thence vnto Shirburne or that to Salisbury Wantage also is not wanting of honour in bringing to life that learned and most valiant King Ealfred the scourge of the Danes and great Monarch of the English And Finchhamsted for wonder inferiour to none where as our Writers doe witnesse that in the yeare a thousand one hundred a Well boyled vp with streames of bloud and fifteene dayes together continued that Spring whose waters made red all others where they came to the great amazement of the beholders 10 The riches and sweet seats that this Country affordeth made many deuout persons to shew their deuotions vnto true pietie in erecting places for Gods diuine seruice and their exemptions from all worldly businesse such were Abington Redding Bysham Bromehall Henâ—ey Hamme and Wallingford whose Vâ—tarie abusing the intents of their Founders ouerthrew both their owne Orders and places of professions all which were dissolued by Act of Parliament and giuen the King to dispose at his will MIDDLESEX CHAPTER XIIII MIDDLESEX so called in regard of the situation as seated betwixt the West-Saxons and East-Angles was sometimes together with Essex and Hartford-shire that part and portion which the East Saxons enioyed for their Kingdome it lyeth bordered vpon the North with Hartford shire vpon the West by Colne is seuered from Buckingham the South by Thamesis from Surrey and Kent and on the East from Essex by the Riuer Lea. 2 The length thereof extended from 〈◊〉 in the East to Morehall vpon Colne in the West is by measure nineteene English miles and from South 〈◊〉 in the North to his Majesties Mannour of Hampton-Court in the South are little aboue sixteene miles the whole Circumference extending to ninetie miles 3 In foâ—â—e it is almost square for ayre passing temperate for soile abundantly fertile and for pasturage and graine of all kindes yeelding the best so that the Wheat of this Countie hath serued a long time for the manchâ—t to our Princes Table 4 It lyeth seated in a vale most wholesome and rich hauing some hils also and them of good 〈◊〉 from whose tops the prospect of the whole is seene like vnto Zoar in Egypt or rather like a Paradise and Garden of God 5 The ancient Inhabitants knowne to Caesar were the Trinobants whom he nameth to be the most puissant in the Iland whose chiefe Citie and State yeelding him subiection made the whole with lesse losse to the Romans to beare the yoke of their owne bondage and to come in vnder termes of truce But when their forces in these parts were spent and the Empire shaken by intestine warres the Saxons setting their eyes vpon so faire a soile made their footing as sure herein which lastly with Hartford and Essex was the portion of the East-Saxons Kingdome 6 Fiue Princely Houses inheritable to the English Crowne are seated in this Shire which are Enfield Hanworth White-hall S. Iames and Hampton-Court a Citie rather in shew then the Palace of a Prince and for stately Port and gorgeous building not inferiour to any in Europe At Thistleworth once stood the Palace of Richard King of the Romans Earle of Cornewall which the Londâ—ner in a tumultuous broile burned to the ground many other stately Houses of our English Nobilitie Knights and Gentlemen as also of the worshipfull Citizens of London are in this Shire so sumptuously built and pleasantly seated as the like in the like circuit are no where else to be found Neere vnto Thamesis entrance into this Countie is kept the remembrance of Caesars entrance ouer Thamesis by the name of Coway-Stakes stucke fast in the bottome to
passe ouer and to smoother farre greater exployts of the Britaines which notwithstanding long in these parts they could not doe for the wrongs of the Icenians growing intolerable who by the Romane Souldiers were put out of their rightfull possessions their Princes accounted no better then Slaues and their Queene whipped in most ignominious manner vnder Boduo they wrought their reuenge as in the History Christ assisting shall be further related Next to these Icenians were the Saxons that got their footing into these parts and of them this with Norfolke Cambridge shire and the I le of Ely was made their East-Angles Kingdome though as it seemeth euer in subiection either to the Mercians or to the Kings of Kent whose off-spring ending in S Edmund the Martyr after the Danes had laid it most desolate Edward the Elder subdued it vnto his West-Saxons Monarchy and that likewise ending in King Edward the Confessor many Noble Normans got their possessions in these parts whose off-spring are plenteously replenished in this Shire to this day 5 The commodities of this Shire are many and great whereof the chiefest consisteth in Corne in Cattle Cloth Pasturage Woods Sea-fish and Fowle and as Abbo Floricensis hath depainted this Countie is of a greene and passing fresh hue pleasantly replenished with Orchards Gardens and Grouesâ— thus he described it aboue six hundred yeares since and now we finde as he hath said to which we may adde their gaine from the Paâ—le whose Cheeses are traded not onely thorowout England but into Germany France and Spaine and are highly commended by Pantaleon the Physitian both for colour and taste 6 And had Ipswich the onely eye of this Shire beene as fortunate in her Surname as she is blessed with Commerce and buildings she might 〈◊〉 haue borne the title of a Citie neither ranked in the 〈…〉 and seat doth equall most places of the Land beâ—â—◠〈…〉 about both by a Rampire of earth mounted along her North and West parts and places of entrance where gates haue stood which no doubt by the Danes were cast downe in the yeare of Iesus Christ 991. when they sacked with spoyle all these Sea-coasts and againe in the yeare one thousand laid the streets desolate and the houses on heapes yet afterwards recouering both breath and beautie her buildings from Stâ—ke-Church in the South to Saint Margarets in the North now containe 19â—0 paces and from S Helens in the East to S. Matthewes Church in the West are no lesse then 2120. full of streets plenteously inhabited wherein are twelue Parish-Churches seated besides them suppressed such were Christ-Church S Georges S. Iames the White the Blacke and Gray Fryers The Site of this Towne is remoued from the Equator vnto the degree 52. 25 minutes and by Mercators obseruation from the first West points 22. degrees 9 minutes and is yearely gouerned by two Bailiffes and ten Port-men all wearing Scarlet with twenty-foure of their Common-Councell in purple a Recorder a Towne-Clerke fiue Sergeants whereof one is for the Admiraltie a Beadle and Common Cryer all in blew with the Townes Armes on their Sleeue The other Eye of this shire is S. Edmundâ—bury By Abbo the Royall Towne wherein at the day-breake of the Saxons conuersion Sigebert King of the East-Angles founded a Christian Church and vpon the occasion of King Edmounds buriall who at Hoxon was shot to death hath beene euer since called S Edmunds-bury where was built to his honour one of the fairest Monasteries in the world begun by King Canute much affrighted with the seeming appearance of that Martyrs Ghost who to expiate the Sacrilegious impietie of his Father Suenus enriched the place with many endowments and offred vp his owne Crowne vpon the 〈◊〉 Martyrs Tombe For the beautie and buildings of this Abbey and Towne let Leyland for me declare 〈…〉 finely seated so delicately vpon the easie ascent of an hill 〈…〉 stately Abbey either for reuenewes or incomparable 〈…〉 then a Monastery so many Gates for entrance and some of them brasse so many Towers and a most glorious Church vpon which attend three others standing all in the same Church-yard all of them passing fine and of a curious workmanship Whose ruines lie in the dust lamenting their fall mouing the beholders to pietie their case Neere vnto this Towne a great Battle was fought by Robert Bossu Earle of Leicester against his Soueraigne King Henry the second but was worthily ouercome by Richard Lucy the Kings high Iustice himselfe and wife taken with many Flemings and Englishmen slaine 7 Other places worthy of remembrance this Countie affords such is Exâ—ing in the West formerly famous for the birth of S. Andrey daughter to King Anna one of the three names of the Shires diuision Rendlâ—sham in the East where Redwald the first Christian in this Kingdome held his Court and Hadley in her South where Guthrum the Dane whom Elfred baptized was buried And things of stranger note are the limits of the East-Angles Territories running along New-market heath vulgarly called the Diuels-ditch the like fable is formally told by Nubrigensis that at Wulpet in the heart of this Shire two greene boyes of Satyres kinde arose out of the ground from the Antipodes beleeue it if you will and Ralfe Coggeshall in the Monuments of Câ—lâ—hester declareth that a Fish in all parts like a man was taken neere Orford and for sixe moneths was kept in the Castle whence after he escaped againe to the Sea As strange but most true was a crop of Pease that without tillage or sowing grew in the Rockes betwixt this Orford and Aldebrough in the yeare 1555 when by vnseasonable weather a great dearth was in the Land there in August were gathered aboue one hundred Quarters and in blossoming remained as many more where neuer grasse grew or earth euer seene but hard solide Rockes three yards deepe vnder their rootes 8 Places separated from common vse and deuoted to God and his seruice by religious Princes were at S. Edmunds Ipswich Ikleworth Blithborow Clare Iaeston Burgh Castle wherein Sigebert King of the East-Angles entered the profession of a Monke but was thence forced by his people to fight against the Mercians in which Battle he was slaine And Dunwich where Foelix founded his Episcopall See These with many others in this Countie were suppressed in the fall of the Monasteries and their Reuenewes assumed by King Henry the Eight NORTHFOLKE CHAPTER XVII NORTHFOLKE is an Iland inclining to an ouall forme closed on the South part with the Riuers of Waueney and the lâ—sser Ouse which diuides it from Suffolke On the East and North with the Germane Ocean on the West toward Cambridge-shire with some branches of the greater Ouse toward Lincolne-shire with that part of the neue which passeth from Wisbitch into the Washes It containeth in length from Yarmouth to Wisbitch about fiftie miles In breadth from Thetford to Wels about thirtie The whole Circuit is about two hundred fortie two miles The Name ariseth from the
situation of the people who being the Norther-most of the Kingdome of East-Angles are therefore called the Northfolke as the Souther-most of the Southfolke The Ayre is sharpe and piercing especially in the Champion and neere the Seaâ— therefore it delaieth the Spring and Haruest the situation of the Country inclining thereto as being vnder the 53. degree of Latitude The Soâ—e diuers about the Townes commonly good as Clay Chalke or saâ— earth well watered and with some wood vpward to the Heaths naked dry and barren Marsland and Flegg exceeding rich but Marsland properly for Pastere Flegg for Corne. 2 The parts from Thetford to Buruham and thence Westward as also along the Coast be counted Champion the rest as better furnished with woods Woodland The Champion aboundeth with Corne Sheepe and Conies and here in the barren Heaths as the prouidence of our Ancestors hath of old disposed them are very profitable For on them principally lie our Fould courses called of the Saxons whose institution they therefore seeme to be Paldyoeun that is Libertie of fold or fouldage These Heaths by the Compasture of the sheepe which we call Tath are made so rich with Corne that when they fall to be sowne they commonly match the fruitfullest grounds in other Countries and laid againe doe long after yeeld a sweeter and more plentifull feed for sheepe so that each of them maintaine other and are the chiefest wealth of our Country The Woodland fitter for grasse is maintained chiefly by feeding of Cattell yet well stored with Corne and Sheepe The Coast is fortunate in Fish and hath many good Harbours whereof Lenn and Yarmouth be the mother-ports and of great traffique Wels and Blakeney next in estimation The whole Countie aboundeth with Riuers and pleasant Springs of which the Ouse is chiefest by whose plentifull branches the Isle of Fly the Townes and Shires of Cambridge Humington and the Countie of Suffolke vent and receiue Commodities The next is Hierus or Yere passing from Norwich to Yarmouth where it receiueth the Bure comming from Aylsham both of them of great seruice for water-carriages but very notable for their plenty of 〈◊〉 for some one man out of an hold vpon the Bure hath drawne vp ordinarily once a yeare betweene two Nets about fiue or six score busness of Fish at one draught The Waueney and the lesser Ouse are also Nauigable and of great vse The residue I omit 3 I he people were anciently called ICENI as they also of Suffolke Cambridge-shire and Huntington-shire and supposed to be of them whom Caesar nameth Cenimagni Ptolemie Simeni some Tâ—gens Their manners were likely to be as the rest of the Britaines barbarous at those times as appeareth by Caesar and Tacitus Neither can I otherwise commend their Successors the Saxons for so also their owne Countryman Ethelwerd termeth them Since the entry of the Normans they haue beene accounted ciuill and ingenious apt to good Letters adorning Religion with more Churches and Monasteries then any Shire of England and the Lawes and Seats of Iustice for many ages with some excellent men from whom most of our chiefe Families and some of the greatest Nobility of the Kingdome haue taken aduancement And herein is Northfolke fortunate that as Crete boasted of an hundred Cities so may she of an hundred Families of Gentlemen neuer yet attainted of high Treason How the gouernment of this Country was about Caesars time is vncertaine but agreeable no doubt to the rest of the Britaines vnder some peculiar Toparch or Regulus as Tacitus termeth him The latter Romans held it by two Garrisons one at Gariannum neere Yarmouth the other at Branedunum now called Brancastre both of horse and commanded by the Comes Maritims Tractus as Marcellinus calleth him termed after Comes Littoris Saexonici Vpon the entry of the Saxons this Countie with Suffolke fell in the portion of the Angles and about the yeare fiue hundred sixtie one were together erected into a Kingdome by Vffa of whom the succeeding Kings were tituled Vffines But hauing suffred many Tempests of Fortune it was in the yeare 870. vtterly wasted and extinct by Hungar and Hubba the Danes who ouerthrew the vertuous King Edmund about Thetford and after martyred him at S. Edmundsbury Yet they did not long enioy it for King Edward shortly recouered it from them and annexed it to his other Kingdomes The Danes notwithstanding inhabited abundantly in these parts so that many of our Townes were founded by them and a great part of our people and Gentry are risen out of their bloud 4 This Kingdome of East-Angles was after allotted to an Earledome of that name by William the Conquerour who made Radulph a Britaine marying his kinswoman Earle thereof but gaue the greatest parts of this Countie about Wimondham Keninghall Lenn Buruham Fulmerstone c. to W. de Albany Pincernae and W de Warranna Forrestario who to strengthen themselues according to the vse of that time with the homage and seruice of many tenants diuided large portions of the same amongst their friends and followers so that most of the Manours and Lands in the parts aforesaid were in those dayes either mediately or immediately holden of one of them And as Northfolke and Suffolke were first vnited in a Kingdome then in an Earledome so they continued vnited in the Sheriffe-wicke till about the fifteenth yeare of Queene Elizabeth 5 The Townes here are commonly well built and populous three of them being of that worth and qualitie as no one Shire of England hath the like Norwich Lenn and Yarmouth to which for ancient reputation as hauing beene a seat of the Kings of East-Angles I may adde Thetford knowne to Antonius Ptolemie and elder ages by the name of Sitemagus when the other three were yet in their infancie and of no esteeme for I accept not the Relations of the Antiquitie and State of Norwich in the time of the Britaine and Saxons though Alexander Neuil hath well graced them Her very name abridgeth her Antiquitie as hauing no other in Histories but Norwich which is meere Saxon or Danish and signifieth the North-Towne or Castle It seemeth to haue risen out of the decay of her neighbour Vinta now called Castor and as M. Cambden noteth not to haue beene of marâ—â— before the entry of the Danes who in the yeare 1004. vnder Sweno their Captaine first sackt and then burnt it euen in her infancie Yet in the dayes of Edward the Confessor it recouered 1320. Burgesset But maintaining the cause of Earle Radulph aforesaid against the Conquerour they were by famine and sword wasted to 560 at which time the Earle escaping by ship his wife vpon composition yeelded the Castle and followed 〈◊〉 William Rusuâ— time it was growne famous for Merchandise and concourse of people so that Herbert then translating the Bishopricke from Thetford thither made each of them an ornament to other In varietie of times it felt much varietie of Fortune By fire in Anno 1508. By extreame plagues whereof
lye a little desolate Citie and as yet retaineth the name without any memory of circuit by wals Of this Citie in the yeare of Christ Iesus 141. as the Monke of Barton doth report nine Scholars receiued their Baptisme and became Preachers of the Gospell among the Britaines which as he saith happened in the Raigne of Hadriant the Emperour But when the 〈◊〉 Stors Hisâ—nes and Saxons had laid all things waste and with their sauage swords cut out the leaues of all ciuill learning this as the rest yeelded to destruction and so lay forlorne till the Saxons themselues became likewise ciuill when Sâ—gebert the first Christian King of the East-Angles from the example of France whither he had beene banished built Schooies in his Kingdome and here at Grancester the chiefe recalling thither the Professors of Arts and Sciences as the Story recordeth and Traditions doe hold But afterwards as it seemeth their increase being straightned the Students complained as the Prophets did to Elisha that the place was too little for them to dwell in therefore inlarging more North-ward seated themselues neere vnto the Bridge whereupon the place began to be called Grantbridge though others from the crooked Riuer Came will haue it named Cambridge This place though sacred and exempted from Mars as Sylla once spake when he spared Athens the Danes in their destructions regarded no whit wherein they often wintered after their spoyles and left the scatres of their sauage sores euer behinde them And in the yeare 1010 when Suen in his fiercenesse bare downe all before him this place was no place for Scholars to be in Warres loud Alarums ill consorting the Muses milde Harmonies Yet when the Normans had got the Garland on their heads and these Danish stormes turned into Sun-shine dayes Gislebert the Monke with Odo Terricus and William all three of the like Monasticall Profession in the Raigne of King Henry the First resorted vnto this place and in a publike Barne read the Lectures of Grammar Logicke and Rhetoricke and Gislebert Diuinitie vpon the Sabbath and Festiuall dayes From this little fountaine saith Peter Blessensis grew a great Riuer which made all England fruitfull by the many Masters Teachers proceeding out of Cambridge as out of a holy Paradise of God The first Colledge therein endowed with Possessions was Peter-house built by Hugh Balsham Bishop of Ely in the yeare of Grace 1284. whose godly example many others followed so that at this day there are sixteene most stately Colledges and Hals for building beautie endowments and store of Students so replenished that vnlesse it be in her other Sister Oxford the like are not found in all Europe But at what time it was made an Vniuersitie let Robert de Remyngton tell you for me Do the Raigne saith he of King Edward the first Grantbridge of a Schoole by the Court of Rome was made an Vniuersitie such as Oxford is Lastly the Meridian Line cutting the Zenith ouer this Citie is distant from the furthest West-poynt according to Mercator 20 degrees 50 scruples and the Arch of the same Meridian lying betweene the Aequator and Verticall point is 52. degrees 20 scruples 5 Another Citie formerly in great fame is Elie had in account for the repute and holinesse of Votary Nunnes there residing built first by Audrey wife to one Tombret a Prince in this Prouince who had this place as a part of her Dowry she hauing departed from her second Husband Egbert King of Northumberland deuoted her selfe to the seruice of God and built here a Monastery whereof she became the first Abbesse This in the Danish desolations was destroyed but soone after reedified by Ethelwold Bishop of Winchester who stored it with Monkes vnto whom King Edgar granted the iurisdiction ouer foure Hundreds and a halfe within these Fennes and the East-Angles limits which to this day are called The Liberties of S. Audrey after whose example many Nobles so enriched it with large Renexewes that as Malmesbury saith the Abbat thereof laid vp yeerely in his owne Coffers a thousand and foure hundred pounds And of latter times the Monkes thereof became so wealthy that their old decayed Church they renued with new and most stately buildings which is now the Cathedrall of the Diocesse and for beautie giueth place to no other in the Land Eight other foundations set apart from secular vse in this Prouince were at Thorney Charteres Denny Elsey Beach Barnwell Swasey and Shengey all which in the dayes of King Henry the eight came to the period of their surpassing wealth and left their Lands to the dispose of his Will 6 The generall commoditie of this Shire is Corne which in the South and Champion-part doth abundantly grow as also Saffron a very rich Spice Some Woods there are and Pasture both pleasant and profitable The North part thereof is Fenny but withall fruitfull whereof Henry of Huntington and William of Malinesbury thus doe write This Fenny Country is passing rich and plenteous yea and beautifull also to behold whereiwis so great store of fish that strangers doe wonder and water-fowle so cheape that fiue men may therewith be satisfied with lesse then an halfe-penny 7 Places of ancient note in this Shire are these the Erminstreet way which vpon the lower West parts of this County thorow Roisen runneth forthright vnto Huntingdon And from Reach a Market-Towne standing neere to the Riuer Came a great Ditch and Trench is cast all along Newmarket-Heath which for the wonder receiued thereat is of the vulgar called The Deuâ—â— Ditch being in truth made for a defence against the Mercians by the East-Angles whose Kingdome it inuerged The Gogmagog Hils neere Cambridge retaine the remembrance of the Danish Siaetion where as yet on their tops is seene a Rampior strengthened with a three-fold Trench whereof Goruase of Tillury tels vs many a pretio Tale. HERTFORD-SHIRE CHAPTER XIX HERTFORD-SHIRE is bordered vpon the North with Bedford and Cambridge-shires vpon the East is altogether bounded by Essex vpon the South is confined with Middlesex and her West butteth vpon Buckingham and Bedford-shires 2 The forme thereof is somwhat circular with many indents to fetch in those Townes that are dispersedly stragled into her next Shire whereof Roiston and Totteridge are the two extreames from North to South betwixt whom in a strait drawne line are twenty seuen English miles and from Putnam Westward to Cheston Nunnery in the East are twenty eight the whole circumference about an hundred and thirtie miles 3 The ayre is temperate sweet and healthfull as seated in a Climate neither too hot nor too cold the soile is rich plenteous and delightfull yeelding abundance of Corne Cattle Wood and Grasse destitute of nothing that ministreth profit or pleasures for life which are more augmented by the many Riuers that arise and run thorow this Shire watering her owne and others till they emptie themselues into the Sea 4 Her ancient Inhabitants in the time of the Romans were the Cattieuchlanians or Cassijans
Brus one of his heires from whose second Sonne Bernard the Familie of Cotton by lineall succession holdeth this Land whereto Glarton the adioyning Parish is now by bountie of a second branch annexed It was in this Shire the head of the honour of Belleine on which 〈…〉 Sibson 〈◊〉 and Vesâ—yes Mannor in Chesterton attended part of it is the freâ—â— Sea 〈◊〉 foure mile 〈◊〉 bredth ouer which when Emma and her Children the issue of Canutiâ— sayled with some perill her Husband in preuention of the like from Bottsey in a strait course to the opposite firme land lined with his Attendant Swords that passage which since hath borne the name of Swords Delph Kings or Canutus dyke This Seignory was granted by the Conquerour to Eustace Earle of Bollein Brother to Lambert Earle of Leins and Father to Godfrey King of Ierusalem reuerting it was giuen to Richard Earle of Cornwall who granted out of it the two Meeres Vbbe Meere and Brich Meere in Fee-Farme to the Church of Ramsey Then after sundry changes it came to Iohn of Gaunt in exchange of the Earledome of Richmond and so by descent fell againe into the Crowne Washingley not farre off from the ancient Lord of that name by Dâ—we and Otter came to the Prices that now posseth it In Chesterton from Wadsheafe by Dennyes there is to the Beuils an ancient name in this Shire a Mannor descended The rest from Aegidius de Merke who gaue there much to Royston Priory passed by Amundeuill to Gloucester and so to Vesey by exchange In Elton the house rich in a beautious Chappell from Denham to Sapcotes and Saultre Beaumes from that surname neere the time of the Conquest by Louth to Cornwallis descended as Bottlebridge by Gimels Drayton Louet vnto Sherley the now Lord. 9 LETTVNESTAN HVNDRED hath that name from Leighton a Towne in the middest of it giuen by Earle Waltheof to the Church of Lincolne which after shared it into two Prebendaries One the Parsonage impropriate which still remaineth the other the Lordships was resumed by Henry the eight and now by the Heire of Darcy matched to the Lord Clifton is become the seate of his Barony This Hundred had in it no house of Religion but Stonley a Priorie of seauen blacke Channons of the order of S. Augustine founded by the Bigrames and at the Suppression valued at 62. l. 12. s 3. d ob It stood within the reach of the great Mannor Kimbolton once an Hundred which was the land of Earle Harold the Vsurper after by Graunt it came with the Chase of Swinesheued to Fitz-Peter from whom by Magnauil to Bohum who in time of the 〈◊〉 Barons built there a Forcelet and so to Stafford by whose attainturre forsaited it was giuen by Henry the eight to the Familie of Wingfield that now possesseth it At Bugden the See of Lincolne hath a seate and was Lord of Spaldwick and the Soke giuen in compensation from the Church of Ely when rent from them it was by the first Henry made a Bishopricke vntill of late that Church gaue vp their interest in Spaldwicke to the Crowne Brampton was giuen by King Iohn at Mirabel to Earle Dauid and by Ada his youngest Daughter fell to Hastings Earle of Pembroke and now is reuerted to the King To the same Earle Dauid by gift of the former King came Alcumesbury and by the bounty of Iohn Scot his sonne to Segraue and so to the Lord Barkley the late possessor To Quincyâ—arle â—arle of Winthester was Keston by Henry the second giuen by whose Heyre generall Ferrars it came to the late Earle of Essex and by exchange to the Crowne 10 TOVLESLAND HVNDRED taketh name likewise of a Towne therein situate In the out Angle of this to the memory of S. Neotus a Monke of Glasterbury but the supposed sonne to 〈◊〉 King of the West-Saxons whose body from 〈◊〉 in Cornwall was transferred to Arnalphesbury then of Arnulphus a holy man now Eynesbury named Earle Alrick and Ethelfleda turned the Palace of Earle Elfred into a Monastery of blacke Monkes which was razed by the Danes but out of the ashes of this Roisia wife to Richard the sonne of Earle Gilbert to God our Lady de Becco and S. Neot as a Cell to the Abbey of Becco in Normandy erected vp of blacke Monkes in the yeare 1113. the late Priorie of S. Nedes suppressed by Henry the eight and valued at 256. l. 15. d q. At Southo the Land of Eustachius the Sheriffe Louetote made the seate of that Seignory on which in this Shire 13. Knights Fees and a halfe depended But from his line by gift of Verdon and Vesey drowned were these in the honour of Gloucester Neare to this at Cretingsbury dwelt Sir Adam de Cretings famous in Edward the thirds warres of France whose Heyre Generall Wanton doth now possesse it Staunton giuen by the first William to Gilbert de Gaunt after the death issuelesse of De Rupes escheated to the King who gaue it to Ioan his sister Queene of Scots She on the Abbey of Tarent bestowed part the rest reuerting being giuen to Segraue descended to the Barons of Berkly Godmanchester or Gormonchester so named of that Dane to whom Aelfred at his conuersion granted some regiment in these parts was the olde land of the Crowne now the Inhabitants in fee farme by grant of King Iohn pro Sexies viginti libris pondere numero It is flat seated by as fruitfull and flowry Meadowes as any this Kingdome yeeldeth and is the most spacious of any one Parish in fertile tillage oft hauing waited on their Soueraigne Lords with ninescore Ploughes in a rurall pompe Some from the name Gunicester which this often beareth in record suppose it the Citie where Machutus placed his Bishops Chayre But for certaine it was that Romane Towne Durosipont of the Bridges named so many hundred yeares vntill the light of our Britainâ— Story ouershone it forgotten Thus as this Citie so the olde Families haue beene here with time outworne few onely of the many former now remaining whose Surnames before the raigne of the last Henry were in this Shire of any eminency But Non indignemur mortalia Nomina solui Cernimus exemplis Oppida posse mort Let 's not repine that Men and names doe dye Since stone-built Cities dead and ruin'd lye RVTLAND-SHIRE CHAPTER XXIX RVTLAND-SHIRE the least of any County in this Realme is circulated vpon the North with Lincolne-shire vpon the East and South by the Riuer Weland is parted from Northampton shire and the West is altogether held in with Leicester-shire 2 The forme thereof is round and no larger in compasse then a light horse-man can easily ride about in a day vpon which occasion some will haue the Shire named of one Rut that so rode But others from the rednesse of the Soile will haue it called Rutland and so the old English-Saxons called it for that Roet and Rut is in their tongue Red with vs and may very well
Shire is drawne indifferently spacious but not very thicke of Inclosures being from East to West in the broadest part not fully 30. miles and from North to South but 24. the whole circumference about 196. miles whose principall Citie is set as the Center almost in the midst from whom the Pole is eleuated 53. degrees and 4 minutes in Latitude and for Longitude 19. degrees 22. minutes 6 From this Towne the Shire hath the name though the name of her selfe is diuersly written as Legecestria Legora Legeo-cester by Ninius Caer-Lerion by Mathew of Westminister if we doe not mistake him Wirall and now lastly Leicester ancient enough if King Leir was her builder eight hundred fortie and foure yeares before the birth of our Sauiour wherein he placed a Flamine to serue in the Temple of Ianus by himselfe there erected and where he was buried if Ieffery ap Arthur say true but now certaine it is that Ethelred the Mercian Monarch made it an Episcopall See in the yeare of Christ Iesus 680. wherein Sexwulph of his election became the first Bishop which shortly after was thence translated and therewith the beautie of the Towne began to decay vpon whose desolations that erectifying Lady Edelsted cast her eyes of compassion and both reedified the buildings and compassed it about with a strong wall where in short time the Cities trade so increased that Matthew Paris in his lesser Story reporteth as followeth Lege-cester saith he is a right wealthy Citie and notably defended and had the wall a sure foundation were inferiour to no Citie whatsoeuer But this pride of prosperitie long lasted not vnder the Normans for it was sore oppressed with a world of calamities when Robert Bossu the Crouch-backe Earle of that Prouince rebelled against his Soueraigne Lord King Henry the second whereof heare the same Author Paris speake Through the obstinate stubbornesse of Earle Robert saith he the noble Citie Leicester was besieged and throwne downe by King Henry and the wall that seemed indissoluble was vtterly raced euen to the ground The peeces of whose fragments so fallen downe remained in his dayes like to hard rockes through the strength of the Morter cementing whole lumpes together and at the Kings command the Citie was set on fire and burnt the Castle raced and a heauit imposition laid vpon the Citizens who with great summes of money bought their owne Banishments but were so vsed in their departure that for extreame feare many of them tooke Sanctuary both at S. Edmunds and S. Albanes In repentance of these mischiefes the Author thereof Earle Robert built the Monastery of S. Mary de Praetis wherein himselfe became a Canon regular and for fifteene yeares continuance in sad laments serued God in continuall prayers With the like deuotion Henry the first Duke of Lancaster built an Hospitall for an hundred and ten poore people with a Collegiate Church a Deane twelue Canons Prebendaries as many Vicars sufficiently prouided for with reuenewes wherein himselfe lyeth buryed and it was the greatest ornament of that Citie vntil the hand of King Henry the 8. lay ouer-heaiue vpon all the like foundations and laid their aspired tops at his owne feete The fortunes of another Crouch-backe King Richard the Vâ—â—â—per were no lesse remarkable in this Citie then the former Robert was both of them in like degree of dishonourable course of life though of disterent issue at their deaths the one dying penitent and of deuout esteeme the other leauing the stench of Tyranny to all following ages who from this Citie setting forth in one day with great pompe and in Battle aray to keepe the Crowne sure vpon his owne Helmet in a sore 〈◊〉 field yeelded both it and his life vnto the head and hands of Henry of Richmond his Conquerour and the next day was brought backe like a Hogge naked and 〈◊〉 and with contempt without teares 〈◊〉 buried in the Gâ—â—y-Fryers of this Citie whose suppression hath suppressed the plot place of his graue and onely the stone-chest wherein he was laid a drinking trough now for horses in a common Inâ—e retaineth the memory of that great Monarchs Funerall and so did a stone in the Church and Chappell of S. Maries inclose the corpse of the proud and pontificall Cardinall Wolsey who had prepared for himselfe as was said a farre more richer Monument 7 Otherplaces worthy of remembrance in this Shire were these In the West where a high Crosse was erected in former times stood the faire Citie Cleycester the Romans BENONNES where their Legions lay and where their two principall wayes crossed each other as the Inhabitants report Loughborrow in the North-verge was as Marianus affirmeth taken from the Britaine 's by Cuthwolfe their King about the yeare of Christ 572. At Redmore neere Bosworth Westward in this Countie the Kingdome of England lay in hazard of one Battle when King Richards Field was fought where the Land at once was freed from a Tyrant and a wicked Vsurper Neither may we passe Lutterworth as the least in account where the famous Iohn Wickliffe Englands Morning-starre dispersed the clouds of all Papisticall darknesse by preaching the Gospell in that his charge and stile of his pen so piercing in power that the man of Sinne euer since hath beene better knowne to the world 8 Religious houses by Princes erected and by them deuoted to God and his seruice the chiefest in this Shire were at Leicester Grace-Dieu Kerby Bellers and at Burton a Spittle for Lazers a disease then newly approched in this Land for the erection whereof a common contribution was gathered thorow the Realme the Patients in this place were not so much deformed in skin as the other were in the defects for the soule whose skirts being turned vp to the sight of the world their sâ—â—mes were discouered and those houses dissolued that had long maintained such Idolatrous sinnes LINCOLN-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXI THe County of Lincolne by the Normans called Nicolshire is consined on the North with Humber on the East with the German Ocean vpon the South is parted from Cambridge and Northampton-shire by the Riuer Nyne and on the West from Nottingham and York-shires by Dun and Trent 2 The length of this Prouince extended from Barton vpon Humber in the North vnto Stanford vpon the Riuer Nyne in the South are miles by our English measure fiftie fiue and the bredth thereof from Newton in the West stretched vnto Wintbory vpon her East Sea containeth thirtie fiue The whole in circumference about one hundred and eightie miles 3 The Ayre vpon the East and South part is both thicke and foggy by reason of the Fennes and vnsolute grounds but therewithall very moderate and pleasing Her graduation being remoued from the Aequator to the degree of 53. and the windes that are sent of her still working Seas doe disperse those vapours from all power of hurt 4 The forme of this County doth somewhat resemble the body of a Lute whose East coasts lye bowe-like into the German
the other part of the I le This place is called S. Michaelin the Vale where in former times stood a Priory or a Couent of religious persons the ruines whereof are at this day to be seene 8 The gouernment of this I le in nature and forme resembles the other of Iersey of whom shall be said The people in their Originall and Language alike also but in their customes and conditions they come neerer the ciuill fashions of the English Other matters of moment I finde not worthy to be recorded It hath ten Parishes and one Market-Towne being also a Hauen and is called S. Peters Port built close by the Peere and Castle Cornet IERSEY THe two Ilands Iersey and Garnsey being the onely remaines of the Dukedome of Normandie that in former times many yeares together was in the possession and vnder the command of the Kings of England annexing thereunto a large Territory and glorious title to the Crowne are both seated in the Sea called Mare Britannicum the Ocean parting them a good distant asunder and are now both adiuncts and within the circuit of Hampshire For the first being the Isle of Iersey it lyeth vpon the British Sea hauing on the North parts the coasts of Hampshire and on the South the Country of Normandy 2 This Iland is long not much vnlike the fashion of an Egge It containes in length from Sentwon Poole vpon the West to Mount Orguil Castle on the East ten miles and in bredth from Dubon point to Plymount-bay six miles the whole circuit of the Iland being thirtie eight miles It is distant from a little Iland called Alderney about foure leagues It was in old time called Caesaria whether from Iulius Octanius or any the other Caesars that followed is vnknowne But the French-men haue by corruption of speech long time called it Iersey 3 It is a very delightsome and healthfull Iland and giueth a pleasant aspect vnto the Seas It lyeth Southward not farre from a craggie ridge of rocks which is much feared of the Mariners and makes the passage that way very dangerous howbeit it serues for a forcible defence against Pirats or any strangers that attempt inuasion and they are termed Casquets 4 The Soile is very fertile bringing forth store of Corne and Cattle but especially of sheepe that are of reasonable bignesse the most of them bearing foure hornes a peece Their wooll very fine and white of which the Inhabitants make their Iersey stockings which are ordinarily to be had in most parts of England and yeeld a great commoditie vnto the Iland 5 The first originall of the Inhabitants sprung either from the Normans or Britaines or both They speake French though after a corrupt manner and haue continued their names language customes and Country without any or little intermixture these many hundred yeares hauing beene vnder the jurisdiction of the English euer since the vntimely and vnnaturall death of Robert Duke of Normandie eldest sonne to William the Conquerour 6 The people of this Country liue very pleasantly as well by the profits of the Land as the helpes and furtherances of the Sea that yeelds vnto them and especially in Summer season great store of fish but principally Conger and Lobsters the greatest and fattest vpon the coast of England Wood is very scant for their best fuell is Turffe some Coale they haue brought vnto them but it is very deare straw furre and ferne seruing their ordinary vses The middle part of the Iland hath many prety Hils rising in it yeelding a delightfull obiect vnto the vallies that receiue from one another a mutuall pleasure 7 The Gouernour of the I le is the Captaine thereof who appointeth certaine Officers vnder him the principall of whom carrieth the name and title of a Bailiffe that in ciuill causes hath the assistance of twelue Iurats to determine of differences and minister Iustice in criminall matters seuen in matters of reason and conscience fiue Their twelue are chosen out of the twelue Parishes so that no man goeth further to complaine then to his owne Iurate in ordinary Controuersies but matters of moment and difficultie are determined before the Bailiffe in a generall meeting THE DESCRIPTION OF WALES CHAPTER I. ANtiquitie hath auouched that the whole Isle of Britaine was diuided into three parts The first and fairest lay contained within the French Seas the Riuers of Seuerne Dee and Humber called then â—â—oyger which name yet it retaineth in Wâ—â—sh in English called England The second part occupied all the land Northward from Humber to the Orkney Sea called by the Latines Mare Caledonium or Deucaledonium now famously knowne by the name of Scotland The third part was this lying betwixt the Irish Seas the Riuers Seuerne and Dee and was called Cambria which name doth yet continue with them though we the English call it Wales as the people Welshmen which is strange and strangers for so at this day the dwellers of Tyroll in the higher Germany whence our Saxons are said to haue come doe name the Italian their next neighbour a Welshman and his language Welsh 2 This opinion Verstegan doth altogether contradict rather iudging by the ancient Tentonicks tongue which the Germans spake and wherein the G. is pronounced for W. that these Saxons called them Gallish from the Goâ—les whence their originall proceeded rather then Wallish from strangers which he thinketh could not be considering their habitations â—o neere vnto them and that the like was in vse he proueth by the words of French Gardian for Wardian Corangalles for 〈◊〉 yea and Galles for Wales calling our most famous Edward Prince of Galles not Prince of Wales insomuch that the County of Lombardy bordering along vpon the Germans was of them called Gallia Cis-alpina and at this day Welsh-land So likewise doe the Netherlanders call the Inhabitants of Henalâ— and Artois Wallen or Wallons and some parts of Brabanâ— and Flanderâ— Welsh-Brabanâ— and Welsh-Flanders and all because of the language or lineage of the Gaules Neither do the meere Natiues of Wales know any other name of their Country then Cambria of themselues then Cambri or Cumri or of their language then Cambraoc But leauing this opinion free to his affection we will proceed 3 Wales therefore being anciently bounded as before the Saxons did afterwards win by force from the Britaines all the plaine and champion Country ouer the Riuer d ee and especially Offa King of Mercia made their limits straiter by making a ditch of great bredth depth to be a Meere betwixt his Kingdome and Wales This ditch is in many places to be seene at this day and beares the name of Clawâ— Offa that is Offaes Ditch The Country betweene it and England is commonly called the Marches and is for the most part inhabited by Welshmen especially in North-Wales euen to the Riuer Dee This admirable Trench began at Bassingwerke in Flintshire betweene Chester and Ruthlan and ran along the hils to the South Sea a little from Bristow
reaching aboue an hundred miles in length 4 Siluester Giraldus makes the Riuer Wye to be the Meare betweene England and Wales on the South part called South-Wales whence he ascribeth the breadth of Wales vnto Saint Dauids in Meneuia to be an hundred miles and the length from Caerleon vpon Vske in Gwentland to Holly head in Anglesey an hundred miles he might haue said thirtie more 5 About the yeare of Christ 870. our Alfred raigning in England Rodericus Magnus King of Wales did diuide it into three Talaiths Regions or Territories which were called Kingdomes This Rodericus Magnâ—â— gaue Venedotia Gwineth or North-Wales to Anarawd his eldest sonne to Cadeth his second sonne Demetia Deheubarth or South-Wales and to Meruin his third sonne Powys 6 North-Wales had vpon the North side the Irish Sea from the Riuer Dee at Bassingwerke to Aberdyni vpon the West and South-West the Riuer Dyni which diuideth it from South-Wales and in some places from Powysland And on the South and East it is diuided from Powys sometimes with high hils and sometimes with Riuers till it come againe to the Riuer Dee It is generally full of high mountaines craggie rockes great woods and deepe vallies many straight dangerous places deepe and swift Riuers 7 This Land was of old time diuided into foure parts Môn Aruon Meryonyth and y Beruedâ—wlan or the middle Country and each of these were againe diuided into seuerall Cantrenes and they subdiuided into their Cymeden or Commots wherein we follow that diuision which was in the time of Llewylyn ap Gruffin last Prince of Wales according to a Copie imparted to me by a worshipfull friend and learned Antiquarie as seeming farre more exact then that of Doctor Powels 8 Anglesey the chiefest is separated from the maine Land with the Riuer 〈◊〉 wherein at Aberfraw was the Princes Court now a meane village In this Iland is a faire Towne called Beaumarish and a common passage to Ireland at Caergyâ—i in English Holly-head 9 Aruon the second part of North-Wales is now called Carnaruonshire the strongest Country within that Principalitie giuing place to none for fertilitie of the ground of for plentie of Wood-Castle Fish and Fowle c. Here are the Townes of Caâ—â—naruon in old time called Caer-Segonâ— and Bangor the Bishops See with diuers other ancient Castles and places of memory This portion hath on the North the Sea and Moenaâ— vpon the East and South-east the Riuer 〈◊〉 which diuideth it from Denbigh-shire and on the South-west is separated from Merioneth by Riuers Mountaines and Meares 10 Merioneth was the third part of Gwyneth and keepeth the name till this day is full of hilles and much noted for the resort of people that repaire thither to take Hertings Vpon the North it hath Aruon and Denbigh-land vpon the South Caerdigan-shire and vpon the East Montgomery-shire heretofore part of Powys In this Countie standeth the Towne of Harleth and a great Lake called Ilyn Tegyd This Country is likewise full of Cattle Fowle and Fish and hath in it great store of redde Deere and Roes but there is much scarcitie of Corne. 11 Y Beruedhwlad was the fourth part of Gwyneth and may be called in English The middle Country is inclosed with hilles on the East West and South-parts and with the Sea Northward It is plentifull of Cattle Fish and Fowle as also of Corne and is diuided in the middest with the Riuer Clwyd to which run a number of other Riuers from the hilles In this part is Dyffryn Clwyd the fairest Valley within Wales containing eighteene miles in length and seauen in breadth In which is the Towne and Castle of Ruthlan neere vnto the Sea and not farre thence S. Assaph an Episcopall seat betweene the Riuers Clwyd and Elwy Herein stands the faire Towne and goodly Castle of Denbigh situated vpon a Rocke the greatest Market-Towne of North-Wales and from thence is seene the Towne and Castle of Ruthyn faire for prospect and fruitfull for site This part of North-Wales hath the Sea vpon the North d ee toward the East Aruon the Riuer Conwey and Merionyth vpon the West and the Country then called Powys vpon the South And these were the Meares and bounds of the foure parts of Venedotia Gwyneth or North-Wales 12 The second Talaith or Kingdome was Mathraual or Powys To this belonged the Country of Powys and the Land betweene Wye and Seuerne It had South-Wales vpon the South and West with the Riuers Wye and Tywy and other Meares vpon the North Gwyneth and vpon the East the Marches of England from Chester to Wye a little aboue Hereford This part was diuided into Powis Vadoc Powis betweene Wye and Seuerne and Powis Wenwynwyn In Powis Vadoc is the Castle of Holt in Bromefeild and the Castle of Chirke in Chirkeland the Castle likewise of Whittington and Lordship of Oswestrie with others 13 The second part of Powis or the Territory belonging to Mathraual is Powis betweene Wye and Seuerne or Gwy and Hauren whereof some is at this day in Montgomery-shire some in Radnor-shire and some in Brecknock-shire and among sundry other hath these Townes and Castles following Montgomery The Castle of Clyn The Towne of Knighton The Castle of Cymaron Presteyn The Towne and Castle of Radnor called in Welsh Maesyuet which is at this day the Shire-Towne The Towne of Kinton and the Castle of Huntingdon 14 The third part belonging to Mathranal chiefe seat of Powys after the Welsh were driuen from Pengwern or Shrewsburie was Powys Wenwynwyn a Country full of Woods Hilles and Riuers hauing in it among others the Townes of Welsh-Poole Newtowne Machinhaeth Arustly was anciently in this part but afterward it came to the Princes of Gwyneth This may suffice for the description of that which in old time was called Gwyneth and Powys 15 It now remaineth that we describe the last kingdome of Wales called Demetia Deheubarth or the Talaith of Dineuowr which although it was the greatest yet was it not the best because it was much molested with Flemings and Normans and for that also diuers parts thereof would not obey their Prince as in Gwent and in Morganwâ— 16 This was diuided into sixe parts of which Caerdigan was the first and is a Champion Countrey without much Wood. It hath Merionyth-shire on the North part of Powys vpon the East Carmarden-shire and Pembroke-shire with the Riuer Tiuâ— vpon the South and vpon the West the Irish Sea In this part is the Towne of Caerdigan vpon Tiuâ— not farre from the Sea as also the Towne of Aberstwyth vpon the Riuer Istwyth and Lhanbadarneuowr which in times past was a great Sanctuary there were also many Castles as of Stratneyrie of Walter of Lhanrysted of Dyuerâ—h and of Aber Roydell c. 17 The second part was called Dyuet and at this day Penbroke-shire It hath vpon the North and West the Irish Sea vpon the East Carmarden-shire and vpon the South Seuerne There are in it sundry Townes and Hauens among others these
Penbroke Tenby Hereford West with the goodly and many branched Hauen of Milford called in Welsh Aberdangledhett S. Dauids or Meneuiâ— which is the chiefest See in Wales Fiscard called Aberwayn and Newport named Tresdreth 18 The third part was Caermarden-shire which is a Country accounted the strongest part of all South-Wales as that which is full of high Mountaines great Woods and faire Riuers 19 The fourth called Morganwe now Glamorgan-shire hath on the South the Seuerne Sea which diuideth it from Deuonshire and Cornewall vpon the West and North-west Carmarden-shire vpon the North-east Breckneck-shire and vpon the East Monmouth-shire 20 The fift now called Gwent and in Monmouth-shire hath in it the ancient Citie of Caerlbeon vpon Vske There are also diuers Townes and Castles Chepstow Glynstrygul Râ—s Tynterne vpon the Riuer Wye c. This is a faire and fertile Country It hath on the West Glamorgan and Brecknock-shires vpon the North Hereford-shire vpon the East Glocester-shire with the Riuer Wye and the Riuer Seuerne vpon the South and South-east 21 The last is Brecknock-shire for the most part full of Mountaines Woods and Riuers This Country is both great and large being full of faire plaines and vallyes for Corne it hath plentie of the thicke Woods Forrests and Parkes It is full also of cleere and deepe Riuers of which Seuerne is the chiefest although there be other faire Riuers as Vske and the like 22 Thus farre concerning the ancient Welsh diuision by Talaiths but the present diuision distributeth them more compendiously into two Countries and twelue Shires enacted so by Parlament vnder King Henry the eight The Countries are North-Wales and South-Wales which haue shared and as it were deuoured betweene them all Powysland each of which Countries containes sixe Shires North-Wales Anglesey Caâ—â—â—aruon Merionyth Denbigh Flint Montgomery South-Wales Caerdigan Pembroke Carmarden Glamorgan Brecknocks Radnâ—r PEMBROKE-SHIRE CHAPTER II. PEMBROKE-SHIRE the furthest Promontory of all West-Wales lieth parted on the North from Cardigan-shire with the Riuers Tyâ—y and Keach and on the East is confronted by Caermarden-shire the South and West shooting farre into the Irish Seas is with the same altogether washed 2 The forme thereof is longer then it is broad for from S 〈◊〉 South-point to Cardigan-bridge in the North are twentie-sixe miles the Easterne Landenie to S. Dauids point in the West are twentie miles the whole in circumference is nintie three miles 3 The Aire is passing temperate by the report of Giraldus who confirmeth his reason from the site of Ireland against which it butteth and so neere adioyned that King Rufus thought it possible to make a Bridge of his Shippes ouer the Sea whereby he might passe to Ireland on foot 4 Anciently it was possessed by the Demetia further branched into Cardigan and Caermarden-shires as in that County hath beene said and in the Saxons Conquest and Heptarchte by the Britaine 's forced into those parts for refuge whither Henry the first and third of the Normans King sent certaine Flemings whose Country was ouer-whelmed with the breaking 〈◊〉 of the Seas to inhabite the maritine Tract called Rosse lying West vpon the Riuer Dougledye Thess Dutchmen saith Giraldus were a strong and stout Nation inured to Warres and accustomed to seeke gaine by Clothing Traffique and Tillage and euer readie for the Field to fight it out adding withall that they were most loyall to the English and most faithfull to the English-men Whereupon Malmesbury writeth thus Many a time did King William Rufus assaile the Welsh but euer in vaine which is to be wondred at considering his other fortunate successe But saith he it may be the vneuennesse of the ground and sharpnesse of the aire that maintained their courage and impeached his valour which to redresse King Henry his brother found meanes for those Flemings who in regard of his mothers kindred by the fathers side sorely pestred and endammaged the English he sent into Wales both to purge and disburden his owne Kingdome and to quell and keepe backe the courage of his enemies These men here seated deceiued not his expectation but so carried themselues in his quarrell that they seldome communicated with their neighbours so that to this day they speake not the Language and the Country is yet called Little England beyond Wales 5 The commodities of this Shire are Corne Cattle Sea-Fish and Fowle and in Giraldus his dayes of saleable Wines the Hauens being so commodious for Ships arriuage such is that at Tenby and Milford an Hauen of such capacitie that sixteene Creekes fiue Bayes and thirteene Roades knowne all by seuerall names are therein contained where Henry of Richmond of most happie memory arriued with signall hopes of Englands freedome from vnder the gouernment of an vsurping Tyrant 6 Neere vnto this is Pembroke the Shire-Towne seated more ancient in shew then it is in yeares and more houses without Inhabitants then I saw in any one Citie thorowout my suruey It is walled long-wise and them but indifferent for repaire containing in circuit eight hundred and fourescore pases hauing three Gates of passage and at the West end a large Castle and locked-causey that leads ouer the water to the decayed Priory of Monton The site of this Towne is in the degree of Longitude as Mercator doth measure 14. and 55. minutes and the eleuation from the North-pole in the degree of Latitude 52. 7 A Citie as barren is old Saint Dauids neither clad with Woods nor garnished with Riuers nor beautified with Fields nor adorned vvith Meadowes but lieth alwayes open both to winde and stormes Yet hath it beene a Nursery to holy men for herein liued Calphâ—â—rnius a Britaine Priest whose wife was Concha sister to Saint Martin and both of them the parents of Saint Patricke the Apostle of Ireland Deus a most religious Bishop made this an Archiepiscopall See remoued from Isâ—a Legionum This the Britaines call Tuy Dewy the house of Deui we Saint Dauids a Citie with few Inhabitants yet hath it a faire Cathedrall Church dedicated to Saint Andrew and Dauid in the middest of whose Quire lieth intombed Edmund Earle of Richmond father to King Henry the seuenth whose Monument as the Prebends told me spared their Church from other defacements when all went downe vnder the hammers of King Henry the eight About this is a faire wall and the Bishops Palace all of free stone a goodly house I assure you and of great receit whose vncouered tops cause the curious workes in the walles daily to weepe and them to feare their downefall ere long 8 But Monton the Priorie and S. Dogmels places of deuout pietie erected in this Countie found not the like fauour when the commission of their dissolutions came downe against them and the axes of destruction cut downe the props of their walles RADNOR-SHIRE CHAPTER III. RADNOR-SHIRE lieth bordered vpon the North with the County Monmouth vpon the East toucheth Shropshire and Herefordshire the Riuers Clarwen and Wye diuide it from Breknock in the
which are seene to racke much lower then the top of that Hill As strange tales are told of the Meer Llynsauathan two miles by East from Breknock which at the breaking of her frozen Iâ—e maketh a fearefull sound like vnto thunder In which place as is reported sometimes stood afaire Citie which was swallowed vp in an Earthquake and resigned her stone-wals vnto this deepe and 〈◊〉 water whither vnto this day leadeth all the wayes in this Shire which as leâ—â—â—ed Cambdinâ—â—â—ctureth â—â—ctureth might be that Louentrium which Ptolemy in this tract placeth and the most confirmed 〈…〉 name adioyning being also called Leuenny which Riuer also passeth through this 〈…〉 the same streame and no greater then wherewith she first entred in 5 The Townes for Commerce are Hay Bealt and Breknock two of them vnfortunate of their former greatnesse whom warres and sedition haue defaced aâ— least downe Hay vpon Wye and Dulas pleasant for situation in the rebellion of Owen Glendower◠〈◊〉 was diswalled depopulated and burnt in whose foundations for new repaires many Romane Coines haue beene found and thereby thought to be the seate of their Legions and Buelth now Bealt though of good frequencie yet not so great as when Ptolemie obserued her position for graduation who calleth it Buleum Silurum neither when it with the Country was possessed by Aurelius Ambrosius by whose permission Pascentius the sonne of Vortiger ruled all as Ninius writeth nor yet as of later times when Leolin the last Prince of the Britaines was therein betrayed and slaine 6 Breknock the Shire-Towne for buildings and beautie retaineth a better regard whose walles in Ouall-wise are both strong and of good repaire hauing three Gates for entrance with tenne Towres for defence and is in circuit six hundred and fortiepaces about vpon whose west part a most sumptuous and stately Castle is seated the like whereof is not commonly seene whose decayes approaching doe increase her ruines daily and in the end is feared will be her fall This Towne is seated vpon the meeting of two Riuers Houthy and Vske whose yearely gouernment is committed to two Bailiffes fifteene Aldermen two Chamberlaines two Constables a Towne-Clerke and two Sergeants their Attendants hauing the Poles eleuation in 52 21. minutes of Latitude and for Longitude is placed in the 16. and 32. minutes as the Mathematicians doe measure them 7 This Shire is strengthned with â—ine Castles diuided into sixe Hundreds wherein are seated three Market-Townes and fiftie 〈◊〉 Parish-Churches CARDIGAN-SHIRE CHAPTER V. CARDIGAN-SHIRE in the Welsh called Sire Aber-Tiui is parted on the North from Merioneth-shire with the Riuer Doui by the Plinillimon hilles from Montgomery-shire in part of her East and the rest from Breknock-shire with the water Towy and with Tyuy altogether on the South from Caermarden-shire the West is wholly washed with the Irish Sea 2 The forme thereof is horne-like bowing compasse long and narrow and growing wider still towards the North so that from Cardigan the Shire-Towne and vttermost point in the South vnto the Riuer Doui her farthest North bounder are thirtie two miles and from the head of Carwen in the East to Aberysthwyth on her West the broadest part in the Shire are onely fifteene the whole in circumference is one hundred and three miles 3 The Aire is open and somewhat piercing the soyle is hillie and Wales-like vneuen yet more plaine and champion towards the Sea then in the East or North of the Land For besides that great and high hill called Plinilâ—â—on a continuall range of lesser doth shoote along yeelding in their vallies both goodly rich Pastures and very large Pooles which being assisted with Springs from the Rockes doe branch themselues as veines in the bod◠〈◊〉 make fruitfull their passages vnto the Sea In Tyuy one of these as Giraldus 〈…〉 Beauer hath beene found a creature liuing both by land and water whose stones the 〈…〉 in great price His fore-feete are like vnto a dogge but the hinder whole skinne as is the 〈…〉 the dogge-like serue him on shore for to run and the Goose-like as Oraes giue him swift 〈◊〉 in swimming this taile broad and gristly he vseth as a sterne wherewith on the sudden 〈◊〉 diuert his swift floating course But this creature in these parts a long time hath not beene seene whose roome we may well say the Salmon hath possessed who still coueting into fresh water Riuers at their downe-right falles vseth this policie He bendeth himselfe backward and taketh his taile in his mouth and with all his strength vnloosing his circle on the sudden as a lath let goe mounteth vp before the fall of the streame whereupon such water-falles are called the Salmons leape and in these Riuers many such Salmons are caught 4 The commodities of this Shire chiefly consist in Cattle Sea-sowle and Fish Corne sufficient but of Woods some scarcitie and at the head of Istwyd are certaine veines of Lead a merchandize of no meane regard or wealth 5 The ancient people that possessed this Prouince were the Dimetae by Ptolemie branched thorow the Tracts of Caermarden Penbrooke and this Shire who in their struglings against the Romans did not a little relie vpon Caractacus their most warlike King from whose name though vnlikely some will haue the Shire called Cardigan yet lastly felt the fortune of subiection with the rest when Iulius Frontinus warred with these Mountaines Scarce had the Normans setled their Kingdome in Britaine but that they assailed this Countie as well to enioy so farre a Possession as to secure those Seas from any inuasion against them so that Rufus first wrested from the Welshmen the maritime Coasts and Henry the first gaue the whole Countie to Gilbert de 〈◊〉 6 This Giâ—bert fortified 〈◊〉 the Shire-Towne with a Wall and strong Castle whose aged lineaments doe to this day 〈…〉 industry both of nature and Art for the Towne is seated vpon a steepe banke her South 〈◊〉 guarded with the deepe Riuer Tyny and passable no way but by a bridge vnder the Castle They 〈◊〉 taketh the aduantage of the rising rocks and circulate the Towne euen round about The Castle is â—â—â—gher built vpon a Rocke both spatious and faire had not stormes impaired her beautie and time 〈◊〉 her carkasse a very Anatomie The walles range as thou seest and are indifferent for repaire hauing three wayes for entrance and containe in compasse six hundred and fourescore pases whose position for Latitude is set in the degree 52. 33 minutes from the North-pole and for Longitude from the first West-point by Mercator in the degree 15. and 10. minutes 7 This Shire as it is little in circuit so accordingly is besprinkled with Towne-ships whereof foure onely haue the trade of Markets neither finde I other remembrance of religious foundations but at Cardigan Istradfleet and at Llan-Badern-Vaur where sometimes was seated an Episcopall See which as Houeden writeth was decayed many yeares since when the people had wickedly slaine their Pastour And yet Llan-Deui-breui built
addict themselues to trauell into forraine Countries 4 Yet in the meane while lest I should seeme too difectiue in my intendments let me without offence in this third though short Booke giue onely a generall view of that Kingdome vpon obseruations from others which to accomplish by mine owne suruey if others should hap to faile and my crazy-aged-body will giue leaue is my chiefe desire knowing the Iland furnished with many worthy remembrances appertaining both vnto them and vs whom God now hath set vnder one Crowne and the rather for that their more Southerne people are from the same Originall with vs the English being both alike the Saxon branches as also that the Picts anciently inhabiting part of that Kingdome were the inborne Britaines and such as thither fled to auoid the Romane seruitude whose names began first to be distinguished vnder Dioclesian the Emperour when they were termed Picts for painting their bodies like the Britaines as such Flauius Vigetius which is more strengthened for that the Northerne Britaines conuerted by Saint Columb are called Britaine Picts 6 Their manner were alike saith Diodorus Siculus and Strabo and their garments not much different as by Sidonius Apollinaris may be gathered where he seemeth rather to describe the moderne Wild-Irish then the antike Gete Notwithstanding this Nations Originall by some hath beene deriued from Scota the supposed Daughter of the Egyptian King Pharoah that nourished Moses afterwards married vnto Gaithelus the son of Cecrops Founder of Athens who first seating in Spaine passed thence into Ireland and lastly into Scotland where his Wife Scota gaue Name to the Nation if we beleeue that they hit the marke who shoot at the Moone 7 But that the Scythians came into Spaine besides the Promontory bearing their Name Scythiâ—um Silius Italicus a Spanyard borne doth shew who bringeth the Concani a Nation therein seated from the Massagetae which were the Scythians and the Sarmatae whom all confesse to haue bin Scythians were the builders as he saith of the Citie Susanna in Spaine And how from Spaine they possessed themselues of Ireland at the time when the Kingdome of Iulah flourished Ninius the Disciple of Eluodugus doth tell and their owne Histories of Nemethus and Delas besides Cisnerus and others doe shew who were first knowne by the name of Scots as is gathered out of Prophyry alledged by S. Ierome in the raigne of Aurelianus the Emperour Gildas calleth them the Irish-Spoilers Giraldus A Scotish Nation descended from Ireland which in regard of them by Eginbardus is termed The I le of Scots by Beda The I le inhabited by the Scots and by other Historians Scotland the great as their seate in Britaine was called Scotland the lesse 9 Scotlands South part in Galloway washed with the warer of Solway Bay toucheth degree 56. of Latitude and thence inbosoming many Loughes and In-lets vpon the East and West extendeth it selfe vnto the degree 60 and 30 minutes whose Longitude is likewise laid betwixt the degree 13 and 19 and the same growne very narrow being so neere the North-Pole as lying directly vnder the hindermost Starres of the Greater Beare 11 And these againe are subdiuided into Sherifdomes Stewardships and â—â—â—wickes for the most part inheritory vnto honourable Families The Ecclesiasticall Gouernment is also subiect vnder two Metropolitan Arch-bishops which are of S. Andrewes the Primate of Scotland and of Glasco whose Iurisdictions are as followeth S. Andrewes Dunkeld Aberdon Murray Dunblan Brechin Rosse Cathanes Orkeney Glasco Galloway Argile Iles. Amongst the things worthy of note of Antiquitie in this Kingdome most memorable was that Fortification drawne from Abercorne vpon the Frith of Edenborough vnto Aleluya how Dunbritton opening vpon the West Sea where Iulius Agricola set the limit of the Romane Empire past which saith Tacitus there was no other bounds of Britaine to be sought for and that here the second Legion Augusta and the 20. Legion Victrix built a part of the Wall certaine Inscriptions there digged vp and reserued at Dunloyr and Cader doe witnesse as also an ancient coped monument of an high and round compasse which as some thinke was a Temple consecrated vnto the God Terâ—â—â— others a Trophey raised by Carausius who fortified this Wall with seauen Castles as Ninius doth declare 13 Ninian a Britaine is recorded to haue conuerted the South-Ficts vnto the Faith of Christ in the raigne of Theodosius the younger and the Church in Galloway bearing his name doth witnes it so likewise in the same age Palladius sent from Pope Coelestine became an Apostle vnto the Scots whose reliques lay enshrined at Fordoâ— in Mernis as was verily supposed but that Christianitie had beene formerly planted in this vttermost Prouince is testified by Tertuilian in saying the Britaines had embraced the faith farther then the Romans had power to follow or persecute them whereupon Peter Monke of 〈◊〉 Spaine concludeth their conuersion to be more ancient then the Southerne Britaines 14 But touching things obseruable for the present surely admirable is the report of the plenty of Cattle Fish and Fowle there abiding their Neat but little yet many in number Fish so plentifull that men in some places for delight on horse-backe hunt Salmons with Speares and a certaine Fowle which some call Soland-Geese spreading so thicke in the ayre that they euen darken the Suns light of whose flesh feathers and oyle the Inhabitants in some parts make great vse and gaine yea and euen of fishes brought by them abundant prouision for diet as also of the stickes brought to make their nests plentifull prouision for fuell 16 No lesse strange then any the fore-mentioned waters but more lamentable is the remembrance of the great inâ—ndation happing by the sodaine rising of Tay. which bare away the Walles and Towne of Berth and with it the Cradle and yong sonne of King William into the Sea wherein the Royall Insant with many others perished the King and his Courtiers hardly escaping the danger with life The ruine of this Towne raised another more famous and more commodiously seated euen Perth since called Saint Iohns-Towne 17 Ilands and Ilets yeelding both beautie and subiection to this Scotish Kingdome are the Westerne the Orknayes and the Shetlands reckoned to be aboue three hundred in number the Inhabitants for the most part vsing the frugalitie of the ancient Scot. 18 The Westerne lying scattered in the Deucalidoman Sea were anciently ruled by a King of their owne whose maintenance was out of their common Coffers and the Regall Authoritie neuer continued in line all succession for to preuent that their Kings were not permitted to haue wiues of their owne but might by their Lawes accompany with other mens as the like Law was in the other parts of Scotland that the Virginitie of all new wiues should be the Landlords prey till King Malcolme enacted that halfe a marke should be paid for redemption The residence of those fore-mentioned Kings was chiefly in Ila Bunals and Iona now Columbkill where as Donald Munrâ—
who trauelled through these Ilands reporteth are three Tombes hauing the seuerall Inscriptions of the Kings of Scotland of Ireland and of Norway 19 Among these Westerne Ilands the Hebrides Skie Mula Ila and Arran are the greatest All of them plentifull of Corne Woods Salmons and Fâ—errings as others of Conies Deere Horses and Sheepe where in some they are wilde and in others without any owners but the people vnciuill and lacking Religion they rather liue rudely in state of necessitie then as Lords of these portions which God hath allotted them and with a sufferable ease ignorant of ambition enioy those contentments which some others though they no great summe doe more laboriously attaine vnto by the precepts of Philosopie for feeding themselues with competencie without any excesse they returne all the ouer-plus vnto their Lords as doe the Inhabitants of Hirta and Rona but alas Religion not knowne among them these penurious vertues are rather the curses of Cham then the followings of Christ who forbids vs to be too carefull for the morrow 20 The Iles of Orkenay vpon the North of Scotland lying in a most raging and tempestuous Sea are about three and thirtie in number whereof thirteene are inhabited and the other replenished with Cattle in these are no venomous Serpents nor other vgly vermin the aire sharpe and healthfull and the soile apt to beare onely Oats and Barley but not a sticke of wood among these Pomonia is the greatest accounted and called the Maine-land affording sixe Minerals of Lead and Tinne and in her chiefe Towne a Bishops See wherein are seated twelue Parish-Churches one of them very magnificent for so remote a Country 21 Of all the Romanes Iulius Agricola first discouered the Orkenays yea and subdued them if we will beleeue Tacitus but Pomponius Mela that wrote thirtie yeares before him doth mention them and Iuuenal in Hadrians time after him tels vs the Romanes had won them and lastly Claudian nameth Saxons that were slaine in them and so doth Ninius name Octha and Ebissus Saxon Commanders who in their rouing Pinnaces wasted the Orknays These Ilands Donald Bane the vsurper of the Scotish Crowne gaue to the King of Norway for his assistance and by the Norwegians were they held the space of an hundred and sixtie yeares vntill that Alexander the third King of Scotland with sword and composition got them from Magnus the fourth King of Norway which afterward King Haquin confirmed vnto King Robert Bruce but lastly Christian the first King of Norway and Denmarke vtterly renounced all his right to those Ilands when he gaue his daughter in marriage vnto King Iames the third which deed was further ratified by the Pope who openeth the way to the possession of Kingdomes with his owne key IRELAND DESCRIBED CHAPTER I. THe Traditions of time haue deliuered vnto vs diuers names whereby this famous Iland is recorded to haue beene called yet none of more faire probabilitie then that of Orpheus Aristotle and Claudian by whom it is named Ierna by Iuuenal and Mela called Iuuerna by Diodorus Siculus Iris by Martian of Heraclea Ioyepnia by Eustachius Oyernia and Bernia by the natiue Inhabitants Eryn by the Britaines Yuerdon the Welsh-Bards in their Ballads Tiruolas Totidanan and Banno and by the English Ireland But from whence these diuersities were deriued arise many opinions Doubtlesse it is that Hibernia Iuuerna and Ouernia came from Ierna spoken of by Oâ—pheus and Aristotle and the same Ierna as also Iris Iuerdhon and Ireland from Erin the terme that the Inhabitants now vse From this Erin therefore a word proper to the Nation the originall is most likely to be deduced 2 Some deriue Hiberâ—â—a from Hiberno tempore that is from the winter season some from Hiberus a Spaniard some from a Duke named Irnalph some againe from the ancient Riuer Iberus and 〈◊〉 from Hiere an Irish word which signifieth the west or a westerne coast whence Erin may also seeme to setch the deriuation for it lieth furthest Westward of any Region in all Europe As also for that the Riuer running in the most remote west-part of this Iland is in Ptolemy called Iernus like as the furthest Westerne Promontory in Spaine from whence our Irish men came is by Strabo called Ierne and the Riuer next vnto it by Mela Ierna yea and Spaine it selfe for the Westerne situation is called Hesperia the West-Cape of Africke Hesperium and in Germany Westrich and Westphaleâ— from their position haue their names Postelius a man that rather followed his owne fancy then the iudgement of others fetcheth the originall of Ireland from the Hebrewes as if Irin should be as much as Iurin that is the Iewes land which opinion I hold no better then those that would haue it from the Winter-like stormes although vpon euery winde the aire is cold there 3 Festus Auienus in that little booke which he entituled Ora maritima calleth Ireland Sacram Insulam that is the holy Iland to which opinion the people are soone drawne by reason of the many Saints that the Iland is said to produce and the blessed soile that affords no venomous creatures to retaine life It is thought that Plutarch meant Ireland by his Ogygia for her great antiquitie and of latter times by â—sidore and Bede it was called Scots of those Scots that inhabited it and that thence the name of Scotland together with the Scots themselues came into Britaine 4 For largenesse and circuit in times past this Iland challenged the third place in ranke of all the Iles of the then knowne world for thus haue Geographers left vs that the Indian Taprobaâ— for greatnesse was the first the I le of Britaine the next and this of Ireland the third and for that cause doth Ptolemy call it the little Britaine But how soeuer Strabo hath extended the bredth as broad as the length and others haue formed it in shape like an egge yet latter dimensions haue found it farre otherwise twice longer then broad and may be compared to the forelegge of a Beare if the Siâ—ile breed no offence Whose East-side hath on it that tempestuous Sea that cutteth her channell betwixt England and this Ireland the West is washed with the Westerne Ocean the North with the 〈◊〉 Caledonian and the South with the Vergiuian Sea 5 The aire of this Iland is delectable and wholesome though neither so cleere nor subâ—â—â— of England which as Mela saith is nothing fauourable for the ripening of Corâ—e but so gratefull to the ground that it causeth grasse to grow abundâ—ntly not onely fresh and long but withall very sweet for all Cattle and in Winter is more subiect to winde then snow and that I may vse the words of Giraldus It is of all Countries most temperate neither forcing the Inhabitants to seeke shade from the frying heat of Cancer nor the chilling cold of Capricorne to driue them to the fire but at all seasons most milde betwixt a sufferable cold and gentle warme heat 6 The soile