cloth as would couer the same with a Rose-noble at the corner of each cloth Others tell a fable of like credit that it was once sold to a Merchant whom they scoffed when he came to take possession bidding him take away the earth he had bought The great reuenew exacted in this straight hath giuen occasion to these and the like fables And in truth if either the King of Suetia or the free City of Lubeck had the possession of this Iland and were fortified therein they might easily command this passage and extort what they list from the Merchants passing that way and perhaps conquer the parts adioyning but the possession thereof were altogether vnprofitable for any Prince whose Territories lie out of the Sound the entrance whereof is forbid by the two foresaid strong Castles But lest I should bee as foolish as they I returne to my purpose And first giue me leaue to mention that there lies a City not farre distant in the Kingdome of Norway which is called London as the chiefe City in England is called Vpon Sunday the twenty six of August in the yeere 1593 I tooke an English ship heere to saile into Prussen hauing first bought for my victuals halfe a lambe for twelue Danish shillings thirty egges for six shillings and some few pots of Spanish wine for forty two Danish shillings with some other small prouisions From Elsinure to Dantzk they reckon eighty English miles Assoone as wee were come out of the harbour wee saw two ships sayling two contrary wayes and yet hauing both a forewind which sometimes happens vpon the shoare as marriners know For of these two contrary winds the one is airy which holds when you are gone into the maine the other is from the earth and in short time faileth at the very shore which euent we presently saw with our eyes one of the ships going fairely on his course the other casting anchor The English ship in which I went was called the Antilope being of one hundred fifty tuns or thereabouts and one Master Bodley was the Master thereof who shewed me manifest signes where his ship in two places had beene struck with lightning the first whereof passed into the pumpe and rent it but comming to the water was by the nature thereof carried vpward and comming out at the top of the pumpe made two little holes then passing to the great Mast rent it and made a great crany therein from the hatches to the top The second struck the top of the said maine Mast and againe rent it in such wise as it would scarcely beare saile till wee might come to Dantzk where the best Mastes are sold at a good rate The first day we sayled in the Baltick sea some fiue miles with a scant winde and cast anchor neere Copenhagen With a faire winde and good gaile Marriners vsually sayle some three Dutch leagues in an houre On Monday early wee sayled along the shore three miles to Falsterboden On Tuesday early wee sayled eighteene miles to the Iland Brentholm and vpon our left hands saw the land in two places and there sounding with our plummet sand of Amber stuck thereunto The same day by noone wee sayled the length of that Iland and vpon Wednesday by three of the clocke in the morning hauing sayled thirty miles we passed by Rose-head being a Promentory 〈◊〉 Dantzk On Thurs-day by eight of the clocke in the morning hauing sayled eighteene miles we came to a Land called Rettell and entered the Port of Meluin where the water was scarce two fadome deepe our ship drawing one fadome and a halfe the entry was narrow and there were many booyes floting vpon shoales sands and the weather being calme we were drawne in by a boate with Oares In like cases ships vse to draw themselues in by the casting and weighing of Anchors with great labour and flow riddance of way From Kettell we passed ten miles and came to the Port of Meluin Iu the aforesaid entry of the Riuer on the right hand towards the West we saw Dantzke seated not farre from the sea shore where it hath a hauen but not so safe as this and towards the North-east in the same place a channell runneth vp to Konigsberg the Court of the Duke of Prussen The Port of Meluin is searce ten foot deepe but our ship passed through the mud like a plow vpon land This port is a little distant from the City on the North-side where we entered by a faire large street called Martgasse lying thence towards the South Prussen of old was subiect to the order of the Teutonicke Knights but by agreement made betweene the King of Poland and the Margraue or Marques of Brandeburg Master of the said order part of the prouince was giuen to the said Marques and his heires with title of Duke vnder homage to the King of Poland with condition that for want of heire male it should returne to the Kingdome of Poland and the other part was then vnited to the said Kingdome but Dantzke and Meluin remained free Cities acknowledging the King of Poland for their Protector for which cause they giue him many customes and permit his Officer to abide in the City ard receiue the same Meluin is a little and faire City lately compassed with new wals and at this time grew rich by the English Merchants hauing their staple in the same They giue good fare for foure grosh a meale and he that paies for two meales in the day may besides haue meat or drinke betweene meales at pleasure without paying any thing The same euening we landed at Meluin our Marriners staying in the ship entertained other English Marriners comming aboard and according to their custome giuing them a peece when they departed it happened that the peece being of iron brake and therewith cut the Cooke off by the middle and rent all the prow of the ship The English Merchants at Meluin had no Preacher though the Citizens gaue them free exercise of religion so that how so euer they excused in by reason that learned Preachers could hardly be drawne to come so farre for meanes to liue yet I thought them not free of blame in this point because our Merchants further distant in Asia and liuing vnder the Turkes Empire found meanes by their bounty to haue learned Preachers Neither indeed did I euer obserue in any other place Italy excepted that our Merchants wanted Preachers where they held their staples From Meluin I went ten miles in one day to Dantzke and we being onely two conforts paid each of vs a Doller for our Coach In the morning we went sixe miles and by the way passed the Riuer Begot comming out of the riuer Vistula where our Coachman paid three grosh to haue his Coach carried ouer a damme Beyond this riuer we entered the territory of the King of Poland and passing all this way through fruitfull come fields and rich medowes and pastures in a Countrey abounding with
not generally vsed neither are there any to bee hired though the waies be most plaine and generally good for Coaches They ride for the most part vpon their owne horses but they are also to bee hired for some twelue pence or eighteene pence the day finding the horses meate which in the stable will cost some twelue pence each night and at grasse little or nothing In euery City there be some knowne houses where an ordinary is kept for diet and beds may be had and the Ordinary is commonly twelue pence each meale By the way in poore Hamlets at this time of peace there bee English houses where is good lodging and diet and where no such are passengers must goe to the houses of Noblemen Gentlemen and Husbandmen English and Irish-English where they cannot want intertainement in some good measure these inhabitants much louing hospitalitie but all other houses are full of filth and barbarousnesse But there are not any Innes in the very Cities which hang out Bushes or any Signes only some Citizens are knowne who will giue stable and meate for horses and keepe a table where passengers cate at an ordinarie and some Citizens haue cellers wherein they draw wine if not al the yeere yet as long as their wine lasts but they haue no Tauerns with Iuy bushes or signes hung cut saue onely some few at Dublin In Scotland a horse may be hired for two shillings the first day and eight pence the day vntill he be brought home and the horse letters vse to send a footeman to bring backe the horse They haue no such Innes as bee in England but in all places some houses are knowne where passengers may haue meate and lodging but they haue no bushes or signes hung out and for the horses they are commonly set vp in Stables in some out-lane not in the same house were the passenger lyes And if any man bee acquainted with a Townes-man hee will goe freely to his house for most of them will entertaine a stranger for his money A horseman shall pay for Oates and Straw for hay is rare in those parts some eight pence day and night and he shall pay no lesse in Summer for grasse wherof they haue no great store Himself at a cōmon table shall pay about sixe pence for his supper or dinner and shal haue his bed freesand if he will eate alone in his chamber he may haue meate at a reasonable rate Some twenty or thirty yeeres agoe the first vse of Coaches came into Scotland yet were they rare euen at Edenborough At this day since the Kingdomes of England and Scotland were vnited many Scots by the Kings fauour haue been promoted both in dignitie and estate and the vse of Coaches became more frequent yet nothing so common as in England But the vse of Horse-litters hath been very ancient in Scotland as in England for sickly men and women of qualitie CHAP. II. Of the Sepulchers Monuments and Buildings in generall for I haue spoken particularly of them in the first Part writing of my daily iournies AMong all the Sepulchers that I haue seene in Europe or in Turkey that in Westminster erected to Henrie the seuenth King of England of Copper mettall adorned with vulgar precious stones is the fairest especially considering the stately Chappell built ouer it The next to that in my opinion is the Sepulcher at Winsore made of the same mettall curiously carued at the charge of Cardinall Wolfye had he not left it vnperfected so as none hath yet been buried vnder it The next place I would giue to the Sepulchers of the Turkish Ottomans whereof the fairest is the monument with the Mosche or Chappell built ouer it for Sultan Soloman at Constantinople The other monuments of the Sultans are built more low with a little round Mosche ouer them all of the best Marble the top being a round Globe of brasse or leade and for the better shew they are commonly set vpon hilles The insides are round and lightsome with windowes and in the very middest lyes the Sultan with his sonnes round about him which according to their custome are strangled by the command of their eldest brother assone as the father is dead and his Sultana is laid by his side when she dies These are all laid in chests of Cypresse lifted vp from the ground with their Tulbents ouer their heads which liuing they woare vpon their heads with some Iewels at the crowne And these chests are compassed with a grate of iron without which is a round Gallerie or walking place spread with Tapestry vpon which the Zantones or Priests that keepe the Sepulcher continually sit as if the Sultans would not be left alone without attendance when they were dead I speake not of the Turkes common Sepulchers which haue no beauty being in common fieldes with three stones erected at the head the breast and the feete Neither did I see any other stately monuments erected to the Turkish Visiers and Bashaes In the next place is the monument of the Saxon Elector Mauritius at Friburg in Germany being of black Marble three degrees high with faire statuaes and the monuments of English Noblemen in Westminster and Saint Pauls Church at London of greater magnificence and number then I haue seene any otherwhere In the next place are the Sepulchers of the French Kings at Saint Dennys neere Paris and of the Palatine at Heydelberg in Germany I speake not of the Prince of Orange his Sepulcher at Delph in Holland which is a poore monument farre vnfit for so worthy a Prince who deserued so wel of the Low-Country men But they haue few or no stately monuments nor almost any ordinary Sepulchers erected to the dead Of the same degree with the French Kings Sepulchers or rather to be preferred before the most of them are the Sepulchers of Italy but they are of another kind Some of them at Rome and that of the King of Aragon at Naples and some few other are stately and beautifull The rest are crected little from the ground and sometimes Pyramidall but the Altars built ouer them are adorned with rare pictures Porphery Marble and Lydian siones and vpon these Altars they sing Masses and prayers the dead lying vnder them As I said that all the Turkes excepting the Sultans or Emperours are buried in the open fields so I haue seene in Germany some fields without the Cities compassed with faire square walles of stone wherein Citizens were buried Of these the fairest is at Leipzig the walles whereof are built with arched Cloysters vnder which the chiefe Cittizens are buried by families the common sort onely lying in the open part of the field and at one corner of the wall there is a Tarras couered aboue but open on the two sides towards the field and paued on the ground wherein stands a Pulpet This place is called Gotts aker that is that Aker or field of God The like burying place I haue seene at Geneua without
other Cities is commonly of timber clay and plaster sometimes of freestone and foure or fiue roofes high whereof each as it is higher so is more proiected into the streete much darkening the same and causing the raine to fall into the middest thereof The streetes are no broader then for two Carts to meete and passe one by the other Almost vnder euery house is a Cellar to lay vp wine Perry Cyder and alll kinds of drinke and few of the windowes are glazed which are also darkened with grates of wood the rest are altogether open to be shut by night with windowes of wood The building of the Villages is like ours in England commonly of timber and clay and thatched ouer The Gentlemens houses are built like those in the Cities whereof I haue spoken but the Pallaces of great Lords for the most part are stately built of free stone yet more beautifull and stately are the Kings Pallaces commonly of free stone curiously carued with pillers of marble and sometimes of brickes with pecces of marble in the parts most open to the eye Among these Pallaces of the King that of Fontainebleau is the most stately and magnificent that I did see and most pleasant for the gardens and sweete Aire Caesar in his Commentaries saith that buildings of England were then like those of France Now at London the houses of the Citizens especially in the chiefe streetes are very narrow in the front towards the streete but are built fiue or sixe roofes high commonly of timber and clay with plaster and are very neate and ommodious within And the building of Citizens houses in other Cities is not much vnlike this But withall vnderstand that in London many stately Pallaces built by Noblemen vppon the Riuer Thames doe make a very great shew to them that passe by water and that there be many more like Pallaces also built towards Land but scattered and great part of them in backe lanes and streetes which if they were ioined to the first in good order as other Cities are built vniformely they would make not onely faire streetes but euen a beautifull City to which few might iustly be preferred for the magnificence of the building Besides that the Aldermens and chiefe Citizens houses howsoeuer they are stately for building yet being built all inward that the whole roome towards the streets may be reserued for shoppes of Tradesmen make no shew outwardly so as in truth all the magnificence of London building is hidden from the view of strangers at the first sight till they haue more particular view thereof by long abode there and then they will preferre the buildings of this famous City to many that appeare more stately at the first sight Great part of the Townes and Villages are built like the Citizens houses in London saue that they are not so many stories high nor so narrow in the front towards the streete Others of them are built in like sort of vnpolished small stones and some of the Villages in Lincolneshire and some other Countries are of meere clay and couered with thatch yet euen these houses are more commodious within for clenlinesse lodging and diet then any stranger would thinke them to be Most of the houses in Cities and Townes haue Cellers vnder them where for coolenesse they lay Beere and Wine Gentlemens houses for the most part are built like those in the Cities but very many of Gentlemens and Noblemens Pallaces aswell neere London as in other Countries are stately built of bricke and free stone whereof many yeelde not in magnificence to like buildings of other Kingdomes as Homby built by S r Christopher Hatton Tybals lately belonging to the Earle of Salisbury seated neere London the Earle of Exceter his house neer Stamford by which Pallaces lying neere the high way a stranger may iudge of many other like stately buildings in other parts The Kings Pallaces are of such magnificent building so curious art and such pleasure and beauty for gardens and fountaines and are so many in number as England need not enuie any other Kingdome therein Among them being manie a stranger may see neere London the King Pallaces of Hampton Court of Richmond of Greenewich of Nonsuch of Otelands of Schene of Winsore and in London the Pallace of White Hall In Scotland the Citie Edenborough is fairlie built of vnpolished stone but the galleries of timber built vpon the fronts of the houses doe rather obscure then adorne them And the Kings Pallace at one end and the fortified Castle at the other end of the City are more statelie built then the rest but all the beautie of the Citie confirsts of one large streete the by lanes being few and full of beggery The houses in Villages and scattered in the Countrie are like to those in England but the Gentlemens and Noblemens houses are nothing so frequent nor so stately built as the better sort of the English Neither are their I ownes and Cities in number building or pleasantnesse comparable to those in England Lastly the Villages of clay couered with straw are much more frequent then in England and farre lesse commodious within Among the Kings Pallaces that at Edenburg and that of Sterling for the building and Fawkland for the pleasure of hunting are the chiefe The houses of the Irish Cities as Corke Galoway and Lymrick the fairest of them for building are of vnwrought free stone or flint or vnpolished stones built some two stories high and couered with tile The houses of Dublin and Waterford are for the most part of timber clay and plaster yet are the streetes beautifull and the houses commodious within euen among the Irish if you pardon them a little slouenlinesse proper to the Nation In generall the houses very seldome keepe out raine the timber being not well seasoned and the walles being generally combined with clay only not with morter of lime tempered The Irish haue some quarries of Marble but only some few Lords and Gentlemen bestow the cost to polish it Many Gentlemen haue Castles built of free stone vnpolished and of flints or little stones and they are built strong for defence in times of rebellion for which cause they haue narrow staires and little windowes and commonly they haue a spatious hall ioyning to the Castle and built of timber and clay wherein they eate with their Family Neither are many of these gentle mens houses void of filth and slouenlinesse For other Irish dwellings it may be said of them as Caesar said of the old Brittanes houses They call it a Towne when they haue compassed a skirt of wood with trees cut downe whether they may retire themselues and their cattle For the meere barbarous Irish either sleepe vnder the canopy of heauen or in cabbines watled and couered with turfe The Germans long inioying settled peace the French and the Nitherlanders for many yeeres distracted with warres haue many Cities strongly fortified with ditches and earthen walles
the English and Saint Dauids Ilands right ouer against the seate of the Bishop of Saint Dauy. Next is the 10 Iland called Enhly by the Welsh Britans and Berdsey as the I le of Birds by the English wherein they report that twenty thousand Saints lie buried Next lies 11 Mona that is the shadowed or dusky Iland which after many yeeres being conquered by the English was by them called Anglesey as the Iland of the English It is a most noble Iland the old seate of the Druides Priests so called of old and so fruitfull as it is vulgarly called the Mother of Wales the cheefe Towne whereof is Beaumarish Neere that lies 12 Prestholme that is the Priests Iland whereof the Inhabitants and Neighbours make incredible reports for the multitude of Sea Fowle there breeding Next followes 13 Mona or Monoeda as the farther Mona which we call the I le of Man the Inhabitants whereof are like the Irish in language and manners but haue something of the Norway men It yeeldes abundantly Flaxe and Hempe hath pleasant Pastures and Groues and is fruitfull of Barly Wheate and especially of Oates the people feeding on Oaten bread in all parts are multitudes of Cattle but it wants wood and for fier vseth a kind of Turffe Russia which of the Castle we call Castle-Towne is the cheefe Towne and hath a Garrison of Souldiers but Duglas is the most frequented and best inhabited Towne because it hath an excellent Hauen easie to be entered In the Westerne part Bala-curi is the seate of the Bishop vnder the primacy of the Archbishop of Yorke and there is the Fort called the Pyle wherein a garrison of Souldiers is kept Vpon the Southerne Promontory lies a little Iland called the Calfe of Man which aboundeth with Sea Birds called Puffins and a kind of Duckes engendered of rotten wood which the English call Barnacles In generall the Inhabitants haue their proper Tongue and Lawes and had their proper Coyne They abhorre from stealing and from begging and are wonderfully religious generally and most readily conforming themselues at this day to the Church of England and the people in the Northerne part speake like Scots and in the Southerne part like Irish. Edwin King of Northumberland subdued the Northerne people and subiected them to the Crowne of England yet with many changes of Fortune this Iland long had their owne Kings euen since the Normans conquered England and since the time that Iohn King of England passing into Ireland by the way subdued this Iland about the yeere 1210 till the Kingdome came to the Scots in the yeere 1266. After that time Mary the daughter of Reginald the last laid claime to the Iland before the King of England as supreme Lord of Scotland and when sheecould not preuaile William Montague her Kinseman tooke the Iland of Man by force which his Heire sold for a great summe of money in the yeere 1393 to William Scroope who being beheaded for Treason the Iland fell by right to Henry the fourth King of England who assigned the same to Henry Pearcy Earle of Northumberland with prouiso that he and his Heires at the coronation of the Kings of England should carry the Sword vulgarly called Lancaster Sword before the King but the same Persey being also killed in ciuill warre the King gaue that Iland to Stanlye from whom discend the Earles of Darby who kept the same till Ferdinand Earle of Darby dying without heire male and the Earledome falling to his Brother but this Iland to his Daughters as Heires generall Queene Elizabeth thinking it vnfit that Women should bee set ouer her Souldiers there in garrison gaue the keeping thereof to Sir Thomas Gerrard But King Iames the foureteenth of August in the fifth yeere of his Raigne granted by Letters Pattents this Iland with all things thereunto appertaining to Henry Earle of Northampton and Robert Earle of Saltsbury their Heires and Assignes for euer they vpon doing homage for the same presenting his Maiesty with two Falcons and his Heires and Successours at their Coronation in like sort with two Falcons And howsoeuer no vse or intent of this grant be mentioned in these Letters Pattents yet no doubt the grant was made to the vse of those vpon whose humble petition to his Maiesty the Letters Pattents were granted as therein is expressely declared namely of William Lord Stanly Earle of Darby heire male to Iohn Lord Stanly and of Elizabeth Countesse of Huntington Anne wife to the Lord Chandois and Francis wife to Sir Iohn Egerton Knight being the Heires generall of the said Iohn Lord Stanly The famous Riuer Thames fals into the German Ocean ouer against Zeland and before it fals into the same makes the 14 Iland Canuey vpon the Coast of Essex so low as it is often ouerflowed all but some higher hils to which the sheepe retire being some foure thousand in number the flesh whereof is of delicate taste and they are milked by young men Neere that is the 15 Iland Sheppey so called of the sheepe wherein is Quinborrough a most faire Castle kept by a Constable Without the mouth of Thames lie the shelfes or sands dangerous to Sea men which of the greatest are all called Goodwin sands where they say an Iland the patrimony of the same Earle Goodwinn was deuoured by the Sea in the yeere 1097. In the Britan Sea lies the 16 I le of Wight hauing in the Sea most plentifull fishing and the Land being so fruitfull as they export Corne besides that in all parts it hath plenty of Conies Hares Partridges and Feasanes and hath also two Parkes of Fallow Deare Also the sheepe feeding there vpon the pleasant hils yeeld wool in goodnesse next to the Fleeces of Lemster and Cotswold Flockes It hath sixe and thirty Townes and Castles and the Ecclesiasticall Iurisdiction thereof belongs to the Bishop of Wintchester Towards the West lie other Ilands pretented to be French but subiect to England namely 17 Gerzey whither condemned men were of old banished 18 Garnsey neither so great nor so fruitful but hauing a more commodious Hauen vpon which lies the Towne of Saint Peter both Ilands burne a weede of the Sea or Sea coales brought out of England and both speake the French Language I omit the seuen Iles called Siadae and others adioyning and will onely adde that the Ilands lie neere Cornewall which the Greekes called Hesperides the English call Silly and the Netherlanders call Sorlings being in number some 145 more or lesse whereof some yeeld Wheate all abound with Conies Cranes Swannes Hirnshawes and other Sea Birdes The greatest of them is called Saint Mary and hath a Castle wherein Souldiers lie in Garrison committed in our time to the keeping of Sir Francis Godolphin and after to his sonne Sir William Godolphin being of a noble Family in Cornewall Also many of the said Ilands haue vaines of Tynne and from hence was Leade first carried into Greece and the Roman Emperours banished condemned men hither to
neuer so poore will not marry the richest Merchants Daughter nor a Gentlewoman vpon any condition any other then a Gentleman Neither is there any iuster cause of disinheriting then base marriage which pollution of blood the Kinsmen will not suffer as in our age hath beene seene by notable examples One in the House of Austria whereof the Arch Duke of Inspruch married the Daughter of a Citizen in Augsburg which his Kinsmen would not suffer till he conditioned that her children should not succeed him in his Fees as they did not though at this time they were liuing The other of an Earle who marrying the Daughter of a Citizen in Nurnberg was cast in prison by his Kinsmen till he left her Hee is not accounted a Gentleman who is not so by foure descents at the least both by the Fathers and the Mothers side and I remember that the Monkes of Luneburg by Statute may not admit any man into their number who hath not eight degrees on both sides yea the Germans are so superstitious in this kind as a Gentleman may haue an action against him who saith hee is no Gentleman For the better coniecture of Gentlemens estemation in Germany I remember one of the cheefe called Von of Shulenburg whom I did see and hee was said to haue foureteene thousand gold Guldens yeerely rent and neuer to ride without forty or fifty Horse to attend him But I cannot sufficiently maruell that the Gentlemen howsoeuer sometimes learned yet proudly despise Graduates of the Vniuersity no lesse or more then Merchants which I found not onely by common practice but also by my priuate experience For conuerting with a Gentleman hee perceiuing that I spake Latin better then hee thought became a Gentleman asked mee how long I did study in the Vniuersity and when I said that I was Master of Arts which degree our best Gentlemen disdaine not I found that hee did after esteeme mee as a Pedant whereupon finding by discourse with others that Gentlemen dispise these degrees I sorbore after to make this my degree knowne to any And it seemed more strange to me that Gentlemen first rising by learning warfare and trafficke they onely iudge warfare worthy to raise and continue Gentlemen but indeed the trafficke of Germany is poore being cheefly of things wrought by manuall Artists which they haue some pretence to disdaine whereas in Italy trafficke is the sinew of the Common-wealth which the most noble disdaine not And it were to be wished that in England where trafficke is no lesse noble the practice thereof were no staine to Gentry When I told an English Gentleman the pride of the Gentlemen in Germany despising degrees of Learning and he heard that the Gentlemen were vulgarly called Edelmen he pleasantly said that they were so called of the English words Idle Men. The Gentlemen of Germany beare the Armes of their Mother though shee be no Heire as well as of their Father and commonly they ioine to them in steede of a mot or sentence certaine great letters that signifie words as D. H. I. M. T. signifying Der herr I st Mein Trost that is The Lord is my comfort and likewise F. S. V. signifying Fide sed vide that is Trust but beware Also Citizens and Artists beare Armes of their owne inuention and tricked out fully as the Armes of Gentlemen onely the helmet is close which Gentlemen beare open Among the generall Orders of Knights into which Gentlemen of all nations are admitted the Templaries in the yeere 1124 were confirmed by Pope Honorius being so called of the Temple at Ierusalem in part whereof they dwelt Histories report that Pope Gregory the ninth incited them to doe great domage by their treachery to the Emperour Fredericke making the holy warre in Asia At last the inducing of heathenish Religion all kinds of lust and intemperance and the suspition of their conspiring with the Turkes or the feare of their too great power made Pope Clement the fifth a Frenchman and residing at Auignon first to extinguish the Order in France then in all Christendome in the yeere 1312 The second Order of the Iohanites or Saint Iohn was instituted by Balduine the second King of Ierusalem Then in the yeere 1308 they tooke the I le of Rhodes and were called the Knights of Rhodes till they were expelled thence by the Turkes in the yeere 1522 and then possessing the Iland of Malta they are to this day called the Knights of Malta And great part of the Templaries rents was giuen to this Order into which of old none but Gentlemen were admitted The third Order of the Teutonikes that is Germans was instituted in the yeere 1190 in the time of the Emperour Henry the sixth They were called Hospitals of the Hospitall which they kept neere the Sepulcher of Christ to entertaine Pilgrimes At last all Christians being driuen out of Palestine they remoued their seate to Venice whence being called by the Duke of Moscouy against the Prussians they seated themselues in Prussia Liuonia and Curlandia They were all borne of noble Parents and did weare a white cloake with a black crosse The Polonians in the yeere 1410 killed the Master of the Order and many thousands of the Knighs When many Cities vnder the protection of the King of Poland sought their liberty in the yeere 1450 and this Order had wonne a battell against the King at last because the Citizens refused to pay the Souldiers the Knights themselues betraied their Cities to the Polonians and after much blood shed on both parts at last in the yeere 1466 peace was made with couenants that the King of Poland should haue Pomerella with other Castles and Townes and that the Order should retaine Kingspurg And finally in the yeere 1547 this Order was totally extinguished the Master thereof being as they said forced to these conditions namely that Albert Marquesse of Brandeburg being of the E'ectors Family then Master of the Order should become vassall to the King of Poland and should possesse Konigspurg with title of a Duke to him and his brethren of the same venter and their Heires Males for euer In which Dukedome were fifty foure Castles and eighty sixe Townes Moreouer that the said Duke should take new Armes and a Dukall habit and when hee came to doe his homage at Crakaw in Poland should haue his seate by the Kings side but that vpon Male Heires failing the Dukedome should fall to the Kingdome of Poland which was to prouide for the Daughter and Heire according to her degree and to appoint no other Gouernour of the Prouince then a German hauing inheritance in Prussia In the time of my being at Dantzke it was said that Duke Albert was growne into a Frensie by a poysoned cup giuen him at his marriage with the Daughter of the Duke of Cleue and the common speech was that the eldest sonne to the Elector of Brandeburg was daily expected in the Dukes Court to marry
Iuly in the yeere 1597 our hearts beingfull of ioy that our mercifull God had safely brought vs thither This early hower of the morning being vnfit to trouble my friends I went to the Cocke an Inne of Aldersgate streete and there apparrelled as I was laid me downe vpon a bed where it happened that the Constable and watchmen either being more busie in their office then need was or hauing extraordinary charge to search vpon some foraine intelligence and seeing me apparrelled like an Italian tooke me for a Iesuit or Priest according to their ignorance for the crafty Priests would neuer haue worne such clothes as I then did But after some few howers when I awaked and while I washed my hands did inquire after my friends health dwelling in the same streete the Host of the house knowing me dismissed the watchmen that say to apprehend me and told me how I had been thus mistaken CHAP. V Of the iourney through England Scotland and Ireland HE that desires to see the Cities and Antiquities of England Scotland and Ireland let him reade the Chapter of the vsuall manner of all kingdomes to iourney and to hire Coches and horses and also the Chapter wherein these Kingdomes are Geographically described out of Camden or if he list rather let him reade Camden himselfe of this point and lastly let him in the same last named Chapter peruse the diet of these Kingdomes and the entertainement in Innes Touching the distances of places by miles first for England he shall easily find a little printed booke particularly setting downe the same For Scotland I will briefely set downe my iourney therein And for Ireland the Cities being rare and farre distant hee must haue a guide who may without great trouble inquire them out Onely giue me leaue for the helpe of strangers to adde this one thing namely how they being curious to search antiquities and loth to omit the light of things worthy of obseruation may to this purpose best dispose of their iournies which all other men may fit to their endes and purposes First let them passe out of Normandy to Rhye an English Hauen in Sussex then let them visit such of the fiue Kentish Ports as they please let them see Cânterbury famous for the Seate of the Metropolitan Archbishop then the Castle of Qüinborrough in the Iland of Shoppey and the Regall Nauy then let them passe by Rochester a Bishops Seate the Regall Pallace at Greenewich and Depford the Nauall storehouse and not farre thence see the broken ribbes of the ship wherein famous Sir Francis Drake compassed the World and so let them come to London When they haue viewed the Monuments of London and Westminster and seene the Kings Court they may take a cursory iourney to view such antiquities in Middlesex Surry and Barkshire as vpon the reading of Camden they shall most desire to see and especially all or the chiefe Pallaces of the King Againe from London they may take a cursory iourney to see the Vniuersity of Oxford and so by Worcester returne to London In their iourney to the confines of England and Scotland they may see the Vniuersitie of Cambridge and view the most choise antiquities mentioned by Master Camden in Harfordshire Northamptonshire Lincolnsheire Yorkeshire Durham and Northumberland My selfe vpon occasion of businesse in the month of Aprill and the yeere 1598 tooke a iourney to these said confines namely to Barwick a Towne then very strongly fortified by the English to restraine the sudden incursions of the Scots and abounding with all things necessary for food yea with many dainties as Salmons and all kindes of shell-fish so plentifully as they were sold for very small prices And here I found that for the lending of sixtie pound there wanted not good Citizens who would giue the lender a faire chamber and good dyet as long as he would lend them the mony Being to returne from Barwicke I had an earnest desire first to see the King of Scots Court So from hence I rode in one day fortie miles to Edenborrow the chiefe Citie of that Kingdome And in this said daies iourney after foure miles riding I came to Aton a Village where the Lord of Hames dwelles whose Family was powerfull in those parts After sixteene miles more I came to Dunbar which they said to haue been of old a Towne of some importance but then it lay ruined and seemed of little moment as well for the pouertie as the small number of inhabitants After the riding of eight miles more on the left hand towards the West and something out of the high way the pleasant Village Hadrington lay which the English in the raigne of Queene Elizabeth tooke and kept against the French who drawne ouer in the time of faction kept the Towne of Dunbar and fortified the same When I had ridden fiue miles further I came to the ancient and according to the building of that Kingdome stately Pallace of the L. Seton beautified with faire Orchards and Gardens and for that clime pleasant Not farre thence lyes the Village Preston-graung belonging to the Family of the Cars powerfull from these parts to the very borders of England within land After I had ridden three miles more I came to the Village Fisherawe neere which beyond a Brooke lyes the Village Musselborow in a stony soyle famous for a great Victorie of the English against the Scots On the left hand towards the West and something out of the high way the Queene of Scots then kept her Court in the absence of the King at the Village Dawkeith in a Pallace belonging to the Earle of Murray From the said Village Fishrawe I rode the rest of the way being foure miles and so in one dayes iourney as I said came to Edenborow seated in Lodouey of old called Fictland the most ciuill Region of Scotland being hilly and fruitfull of corne but hauing little or no wood This City is the seat of the King of Scotland and the Courts of Iustice are held in the same Of old according to the changeable fortune of warre it was sometimes in the possession of the Scots sometimes of the English inhabiting this Easterne part of Scotland till the English Kingdome being shaken with the inuasions of the Danes at last about the yeere 960. it became wholly in the power of the Scots This City is high seated in a fruitfull soyle and wholsome aire and is adorned with many Noblemens Towers lying about it and aboundeth with many springs of sweet waters At the end towards the East is the Kings Pallace ioyning to the Monastery of the Holy Crosse which King Dauid the first built ouer which in a Parke of Hares Conies and Deare an high mountaine hangs called the chaire of Arthur of Arthur the Prince of the Britanes whose monuments famous among all Ballad-makers are for the most part to be found on these borders of England and Scotland From the Kings Pallace at the East the City still riseth
higher and higher towards the West and consists especially of one broad and very faire street which is the greatest part and sole ornament thereof the rest of the side streetes and allies being of poore building and inhabited with very poore people and this length from the East to the West is about a mile whereas the bredth of the City from the North to the South is narrow and cannot be halfe a mile At the furthest end towards the West is a very strong Castle which the Scots hold vnexpugnable Camden saith this Castle was of old called by the Britaines Castle meyned agnea by the Scots The Castle of the Maids or Virgines of certaine Virgines kept there for the Kings of the Picts and by Ptolomy the winged Castle And from this Castle towards the West is a most steepe Rocke pointed on the highest top out of which this Castle is cut But on the North South sides without the wals lie plaine and fruitfull fields of Corne. In the midst of the foresaid faire streete the Cathedrall Church is built which is large and lightsome but little stately for the building and nothing at all for the beauty and ornament In this Church the Kings seate is built some few staires high of wood and leaning vpon the pillar next to the Pulpit And opposite to the same is another seat very like it in which the incontinent vse to stand and doe pennance and some few weekes past a Gentleman being a stranger and taking it for a place wherein Men of better quality vsed to sit boldly entred the same in Sermon time till he was driuen away with the profuse laughter of the common sort to the disturbance of the whole Congregation The houses are built of vnpolished stone and in the faire streete good part of them is of free stone which in that broade streete would make a faire shew but that the outsides of them are faced with wooden galleries built vpon the second story of the houses yet these galleries giue the owners a faire and pleasant prospect into the said faire and broad street when they sit or stand in the same The wals of the City are built of little and vnpolished stones and seeme ancient but are very narrow and in some places exceeding low in other ruiued From Edenborow there is a ditch of water yet not running from the Inland but rising ofsprings which is carried to Lethe and so to the Sea Lethe is seated vpon a creek of the Sea called the Frith some mile from Edenborow and hath a most commodious and large Hauen When Monsieur Dessy a Frenchman did fortifie Lethe for the strength of Edenborow it began of a base Village to grow to a Towne And when the French King Francis the second had married Mary Queene of the Scots againe the French who now had in hope deuoured the possession of that Kingdome and in the yeere 1560. began to aime at the conquest of England more strongly fortified this Towne of Lethe but Elizabeth Queene of England called to the succour of the Lords of Scotland against these Frenchmen called in by the Queene soone effected that the French returned into their Countrey and these fortifications were demolished Erom Leth I crossed ouer the Frith which ebs and flowes as high as Striuelin to the Village King-korn being eight miles distant and seated in the Region or Country called Fife which is a Peninsule that is almost an Iland lying betweene two creekes of the Sea called Frith and Taye and the Land yeelds corne and pasture and seacoales as the Seas no lesse plentifully yeeld among other fish store of oysters shel fishes and this Countrey is populous and full of Noblemens and Gentlemens dwellings commonly compassed with little groues though trees are so rare in those parts as I remember not to haue seene one wood From the said Village King-korn I rode ten very long miles to Falkeland then the Kings House for hunting but of old belonging to the Earles of Fife where I did gladly see I ames the sixth King of the Scots at that time lying there to follow the pastimes of hunting and hawking for which this ground is much commended but the Pallace was of old building and almost ready to fall hauing nothing in it remarkeable I thought to haue ridden from hence to Saint Andrewes a City seated in Fife and well known as an Vniuersity and the seate of the Archbishop But this iourney being hindred I wil onely say that the Bishop of Saint Andrewes at the intercession of the King of Scotland Iames the third was by the Pope first made Primate of all Scotland the same Bishop and all other Bishops of that Kingdome hauing formerly to that day beene consecrated and confirmed by the Archbishop of Yorke in England Likewise I purposed to take my iourney as farre as Striuelin where the King of the Scots hath a strong Castle built vpon the front of a steepe Rocke which King Iames the sixth since adorned with many buildings and the same hath for long time beene committed to the keeping of the Lords of Eriskin who likewise vse to haue the keeping of the Prince of Scotland being vnder yeeres And from thence I purposed to returne to Edenborow but some occasions of vnexpected businesse recalled me speedily into England so as I returned presently to Edenborow and thence to Barwicke the same way I came I adde for passengers instruction that they who desire to visit the other Counties of England and Ireland may passe from Edenborow to Carlile chiefe City of Comberland in England and so betweene the East parts of Lancashire and the West parts of Yorke and then through Darbyshire Nottinghamshire Warwickeshire Staffordshire and Chesshire may take their iourney to the City Westchester whence they shall haue commodity to passe the Sea to Dablin in Ireland and while they expect this passage they may make a cursory iourney into Flintshire and Caernaruenshire in Northwales to see the antiquities thereof or otherwise may goe directly to Holy Head and thence make a shorter cut to Dublyn in Ireland From Dublyn they may passe to see the Cities of the Prouince Mounster whence they may commodiously passe to the South parts of Wales and there especially see the antiquities of Merlyn and so taking their iourney to the West parts of England may search the antiquities of these seuerall Counties and easily find commoditie to passeinto the West parts of France And all this circuit beginning at London may with ordinary fauourable winds according to the season of the yeere be easily made from the beginning of March to the end of September Alwaies I professe onely to prescribe this course to such as are curious to search all the famous monuments and antiquities of England mentioned in Camdens compleat description thereof CHAP. VI. Of the manner to exchange Moneys into forraine parts and the diuers moneys of diuers parts together with the diuers measures of miles in sundry Nations most necessary
Lawes and obedience due to his Maiesty The foure twentieth day his Lordship was aduertised that the Citizens of Lymrick had with their Priests entred into all the Churches of the City and there erecting Altars had vsed the Rites of the Romish Church The 25. day his Lordship wrote this letter to the Citizens of Waterford YOur letters of the three and twentieth of this instant came this day to my hands And hauing duely considered the contents of the same I find that they returne a double excuse of the courses you haue vsed first for your delay of time to proclaime the Kings most Excellent Maiesty according to such directions as was sent vnto you from the Earle of Ormond by a Counsellor of this State And the next for such disorders as were reported to bee committed by the publike breach of his Highnesse Lawes in matters of Religion To the which We returne you this answer following First albeit We would haue wished that you had had a more carefull regard to haue performed such directions as you receiued from to Noble a Peere of this Realme by so reuerent a messenger as you might assure your selues in such a matter durst not abuse you his Highnesse sole and vndoubted right concurring also with your owne knowledge and consciences yet We will not condemne you for that omission of the time seeing afterwards you did obey our directions in that behalfe and gaue so publike a testimony of your ioyful allowance and consent to his Maiesties Right and lawfull title proclaimed amongst you But as in this part you haue giuen vnto vs a kinde of contentment so in the last point Wee cannot forbeare to let you vnderstand the Iust mislike We doe conceiue that you being Citizens of wisdome and good experience and the Lawes of the Realme continuing in force would be drawne either by your Priests or any like practises to commit any publike breach of the Lawes and the rather because out of that vnspotted duty which you professe you haue euer carried to the Crowne you would not in reason conceiue that the example of your offence in such a cause and in so great and populous a City could not but in it selfe be very dangerous in these disordered times wherein examples doe carry men astray which in discharge of Our duty to the Kings Highnesse Wee may not suffer And therefore haue resolued to make Our speedy repaire vnto those parts for none other purpose but to establish his Maiesties Lawes that no publike nor contemptious breach be made of them wherein We wish you had bin more wary contenting your selues with the long and fauourable tolleration you enioyed during the late Queens raigne rather then in this sort to haue prescribed Lawes to your selues whereby in wisdome you may perceiue how much you haue preiudiced the very obtaining of your owne desire by the courses you haue taken as we are credibly informed And yet because it may be that the reports of your behauiour haue beene made more hainous then there is cause Wee are well pleased to suspend Our giuing credit to such particular informations vntill vpon due examination the truth may appeare wherein We hope and shall be glad that you can acquit your selues so of these imputations now laid vpon you or otherwise that you conforme your selues now at last in such sort to the obedience you owe to his Maiesty and his Lawes as We be not inforced to take seuere notice of your contrary actions The same day his Lordship was aduertised from the Mayor of Galloway that howsoeuer he found no seditious inclination in the Citizens yet to preuent disorders in these mutinous times the Gouernor of the Fort had giuen him some of his souldiers to assist his authority whom he to that purpose had placed in the strongest Castles of the City The same day his Lordship receiued letters from the Mayor of Corke signifying that the thirteenth day of this moneth he had published in the City the Proclamation of the King with the greatest solemnity he could and complaining that the Souldiers in the Kings Fort offered many abuses to the Towne with offer from the Corporation to vndertake the safe keeping of that Fort for his Maiesty The 26 day his Lordship wrote to the Soueraigne of Wexford that whereas they excused their erecting of popish rites by the report they heard of his Maiesties being a Roman Catholike he could not but maruell at their simplicity to be seduced by lying Priests to such an opinion since it was apparant to the World that his Maiesty professed the true religion of the Gospell and euer with carefull sincerity maintained it in his Kingdome of Scotland charging him and those of Wexford vpon their Wexford to his Maiesty to desist from the disordered course they had taken in celebrating publikely the idolatrous Masse least hee at his comming vp into those parts should haue cause seuerely to punish their contempt shewed to his Maiesty and the lawes of his Kingdome The same day his Lordship was aduertised from the Commissioners of Mounst r that the Citizens of Corke grew daily more and more insolent defacing places of scripture written on the wals of the Church to the end they might wash and paint ouer the old Pictures and that one tearmed a Legat from the Pope with many Priests had gone in solemne procession hallowing the Church and singing Masse therein publikely the Townes-men hauing placed guards of armed men set at the Church dore and at the Porch yea burying their dead with all Papisticall Ceremonies and taking the Sacrament in like sort to spend their liues and goods in desence of the Romish Religion and thereupon taking boldnes to offer wrong to the English and to practice the getting of the Kings Fort into their hands yea refusing to sell any thing to the English for the new mixed money and not suffering the Kings victuals to be issued out of the store till they had assurance that the Souldiers should be sent out of the liberties of Corke The 27 day his Lordship wrote to the Soueraigne of Clemmell commending him and the rest of that City that they had proclaimed the King with great ioy and gladnesse but charging them vpon their vttermost perill to cease from the publike exercise of the Romish Religion which they of themselues had mutinously established The same day his Lordship wrote this following letter to the Soueraigne of Kilkenny AFter my hearty commendations I haue receiued your Letters of the 25 and 26 of this moneth and am glad to vnderstand thereby that you are somewhat conformable to my directions being willing to haue cause to interpret your actions to the best but though I meane not to search into your consciences yet I must needs take knowledge of the publike breach of his Maiesties Lawes and whereas you let me vnderstand that the Inhabitants are willing to withdraw themselues for their spirituall exercise to priuacy contented onely with the vse of the ruinous Abbey
when the guests haue chosen their meate and agreed for the price they carry it backe and after it is prepared bring it in warme with sauces Is the passenger haue a horse of his owne which he may buy here to sell with good gaine in Italy he shall pay for his meate as I said fiue soulz at noone and some ten soulz at night The French haue also long Waggons couered with cloath such as our English Carriers vse wherein women and such as can indure the slownesse thereof vse to trauell from Citie to Citie My self after I had been robbed in Champaigne passed in such a Waggon from Challons to Paris and paied two gold Crownes of the Sunne for my passage Alwaies it is to be vnderstood that in most Kingdomes and places a stranger shall pay somewhat more then one that is borne in the Country In England towards the South and in the West parts and from London to Barnick vpon the confines of Scotland Post-horses are established at euery ten miles or thereabouts which they ride a false gallop after some ten miles an hower sometimes and that makes their hire the greater for with a Commission from the chiefe Post-master or chiefe Lords of the Councell giuen either vpon publike businesse or at least pretence thereof a passenger shal pay two pence half-penny each mile for his horse and as much for his guides horse but one guide will serue the whole company though many ride together who may easily bring backe the horses driuing them before him who know the way aswell as a begger knowes his dish They which haue no such Commission pay three pence for each mile This extraordinary charge of horses hire may well be recompenced with the speede of the iourney whereby greater expences in the Innes are auoided all the difficultie is to haue a body able to endure the toyle For these 〈◊〉 the passenger is at no charge to giue them meat onely at the ten miles end the boy that carries them backe will expect some few pence in gift Some Nobleman hath the Office of chiefe Post-Master being a place of such account as commonly he is one of the Kings Counsell And not onely hee but other Lords of the Councell according to the qualities of their offices vse to giue the foresaid Commission signed with their hands ioyntly or seuerally but their hands are lesse regarded then the Postmasters except they be fauourites and of the highest Offices or the businesse bee important In the Innes men of inferiour condition vse to eate at the Hosts Table and pay som six pence a meale but Gentlemen haue their chambers and eate alone except perhaps they haue consorts and friends in their company and of their acquaintance If they bee accompanied perhaps their reckoning may commonly come to some two shillings a man and one that eates alone in his owne chamber with one or two seruants attending him perhaps vpon reckoning may spend some fiue or six shillings for supper and breakfast But in the Northerne parts when I passed towards Scotland Gentlemen themselues did not vse to keepe their chambers but to eat at an ordinarie table together where they had great plentie of good meate and especially of choice kinds of fish and each man paid no more then sixe pence and sometimes but foure pence a meale One horses meate will come to twelue pence or eighteene pence the night for Hay Oates and Straw and in Summer time commonly they put the horses to grasse after the rate of three pence each horse though some who ride long iournies will either keepe them in the Stable at hard meate as they doe in Winter or else giue them a little Oates in the morning when they are brought vp from grasse English passengers taking any iourney seldome dine especially not in Winter and withall ride long iournies But there is no place in the World where passengers may so freely command as in the English Inns and are attended for themselues and their horses as well as if they were at home and perhaps better each seruant being ready at call in hope of a small reward in the morning Neither did I euer see Innes so well furnished with houshold stuffe Coaches are not to be hired any where but only at London and howsoeuer England is for the most part plaine or consisting of little pleasant hilles yet the waies farre from London are so durty as hired Coachmen doe not ordinarily take any long iournies but onely for one or two daies any way from London the wayes so farre being sandy and very faire and continually kept so by labour of hands And for a dayes iourney a Coach with two horses vsed to be let for some ten shillings the day or the way being short for some eight shillings so as the passengers paid for the horses meat or some fifteene shillings a day for three horses the Coach-man paying for his horses meate Sixtie or seuenty yeeres agoe Coaches were very rare in England but at this day pride is so farre increased at there be few Gentlemen of any account I meane elder Brothers who haue not their Coaches so as the streetes of London are almost stopped vp with them Yea they who onely respect comlinesse and profit and are thought free from pride yet haue Coaches because they find the keeping thereof more commodious and profirable then of horses since two or three Coach-porses will draw foure or fiue persons besides the commodity of carrying many necessaries in a Coach For the most part Englishmen especially in long iournies vse to ride vpon their owne horses But if any will hire a horse at London they vse to pay two shillings the first day and twelue or perhaps eighteene pence a day for as many dayes as they keepe him till the horse be brought home to the owner and the passenger must either bring him backe or pay for the sending of him and find him meate both going and comming In other parts of England a man may hire a horse for twelue pence the day finding him meate and bringing or sending him backe and if the iourney bee long he may hire him at a conuenient rate for a moneth or two Likewise Carriers let horses from Citie to Citie with caution that the passenger must lodge in their Inne that they may looke to the feeding of their horse and so they will for some fiue or sixe dayes iourney let him a horse and find the horse meate themselues form so me twenty shillings Lastly these Carryers haue long couered Waggons in which they carry passengers from City to City but this kind of iournying is so tedious by reason they must take waggon very earely and come very late to their Innes as none but women and people of inferiour condition or strangers as Flemmings with their wiues and seruants vse to trauell in this sort In Ireland since the end of the Ciuill warre some Lords and Knights haue brought in Coaches to Dublin but they are
same in the buildings of the Kings Court and other houses The Cities thereof are Helsenburg Lanscron and London the Metropolitan Citie 5 The Iland of Seland whence they hold the Zelanders of Netherland to haue come into those parts is beautified with the City Copenhagen that is the Hauen of Merchants where the King hath his Court and there is an Vniuersity It hath also the strong Castell Cronemburg built in the Village Elsenar and the City Roschild so called of a Fountaine being the seate of a bishop where the Kings are buried Betweene the Castle Cronembirg in Seland and the Castle Helsenburg in Scandia is the famous straight of the Sea called Der Soundt by which the ships enter into the Baltick Sea and returning from Dantzk and Righa laded with precious commodities pay great tributes to the King of Denmarke both at the entrie and going 〈◊〉 of that Straight 6 Iutland signifying a good land in the German language is the Northerne part of the Cimbrian Chersonesus that is necke of land whence the Cimbri came who made war vpon the Romans And this Iutland with the foresaid Seland are properly called Denmarke the other parts being peculiar Regions at diuers times annexed to that Crowne The chiefe Townes of Iutland are Aleburg Nicopia and Wiburg The rest of the tract of the Cimbrian Chersonesus containes the Dukedome of Holst vulgarly called Holstein which of old was part of Saxony but so as the Danes often forced it to the paying of tribute and at last about the yeere 1465 they fully subdued it Part of this Dukedome lying vpon the Brittan Sea betweene the Brooke Idera and the Riuer Elue is called Ditmarcia all fenny so as by casting downe certaine bankes they may drowne al the Countrie and by this strength the inhabitants keeping their enemies out long preserued a rude or rurall liberty but at last in our time Frederike King of Denmarke vpon aduantage of a great frost in those Fennes suddenly assailed and subdued them ioyning that Country to the said Dukedome of Holst Of which Dukedome the chiefe Townes are Flensburg Slesuick where of old the Dukes held their Court being seated on the Sea towards the East and Gottorp and Meldorp in Ditmarcia vpon the Sea towards the West Vpon the confines of Holst lye the faire Imperiall free Cities Lubeck and Hamburg to the freedome whereof the Dukes of Holst were great and neere enemies challenging the same to bee built in their soyle for which cause the Kings of Denmark possessing that Dukedome are much suspected by these Cities whom they more and more feare as their power more increaseth Some reckon the Ilands Orcades for part of Denmarke and they say that the inhabitants speake the Gothes language but Histories witnesse that howsoeuer of old they belonged to the Danes yet they haue long been subiect to the Kingdome of Scotland Denmarke lying neere the Artick circle must needs be subiect to great cold howsoeuer the mistie aire caused by the frequent Iles doth in some sort mitigate the extremity thereof In regard of the clime it cannot be expected that fruites should grow here which are onely ripened by the heate of the Sunne They haue corne sufficient for their own vse and plenty thereof as of all other commodities is brought to them from Danizk and all other parts by reason of the frequent concourse of Merchants into the Sounat which they inioy at good rates and with much ease The Danes exchange great plenty of dried and salted fishes and of other smal commodities for necessaries to clothe and feede them and being in both these kinds frugal and sparing as the Germans are they also attaine to some small riches by this poore traffick And since they feede for the most part on dried fishes bacon and salt meates and little vse fresh meates as veale and mutton they carry great heards of oxen and calues out of Holst into Netherland Lastly since they haue no other commodities of their owne to transport and Merchants that passe the Baltike Sea of necessity landing at Elsenar bring them all necessaries from forraigne parts and also take of them such commodities as they can spare surely howsoeuer the ships of Denmark are in strength sayling and lasting next to the English yet their Merchants seldome make any other voyages then towards the Northerne Iles to take fish In diet they are much like the Germans and especially the neighbouring Saxons Their dainties are bacon and salt meats but the common people feeds much on diuers kinds of dried fishes which at the first view of them a strangermay wel perceiue by their leane and withered faces and they likewise feede on bread very black heauy and windy I did see no common Innes at Copenhagen Elsenar or Rosehilde but some are there licensed to keepe Tauerns for selling of wine where the common table for that purpose is alwaies ready couered with linnen But passengers must obtaine diet and lodging with some Citizen and in their houses they shal find honest manners moderate diet and cleane beds and sheets To conclude the Danes passe if it be possible their neighbour Saxons in the excesse of their drinking Poland hath the name of Pole in that language signifying a plaine and is a vast kingdome The longitude thereof extends 16 degrees from the Meridian of 38 degrees to that of 54 degrees and the latitude extends 9 degrees from the paralel of 47 degrees to that of 56 degrees It is diuided into the greater and the lesse 1 Of the greater Poland these are the chiefe townes Bosnan seated on the Brooke Barta and Genesua and Ladistauia seated vpon the Riuer Vistula or Wexel 2 The lesser Poland lies towards the South wherein is Craconia vulgarly Crakaw the seat of the Kings The inhabitants come of the Scithians and the manners of the common people at this day little differ from the old Sarmatians This Region is fenny and great part thereof is woody but it so aboundeth with corne and pastures as it supplies all Europe with corne and the neighbour Countries with heards of Cattell It hath no vines but it yeelds plenty of pit-coale and much wax and hony and it no lesse aboundeth with many kinds of the said cattell aswell wilde as tame Other Prouinces are annexed to this Kingdom namely Samogitia Massouia Lithuania Volhinia Russia and Podolia for I omit Borussia though subiect to this Kingdome vnder a free yoke because I formerly said that it is numbred among the Prouinces of Germany the inhabitants being Germans in language and manners and because I haue in that place formerly described the same 3 Samogitia hath no walled Towne but the people liue in Cottages and being rude and of great stature only apply themselues to the plough and feeding of cattle not knowing any vse of mony scarce the seruice of God 4 The Metropolitan City of Massouia is Warsouia vulgarly Warsaw where the Parlaments of the Kingdome are held 5 Lithuania giues
betweene Roane and Diepe called Totes and in like sort in all the Innes of those parts before the ciuill warre assoone as passengers lighted from their horses the Hoast gaue them water to wash and bread and wine for the French haue not the patience to expect their supper without some refection Then at supper the table was serued with Mutton a Capon or Pullet Patridges and like meates with a kind of banquet as in Summer Apples Cherries and Grapes and in Winter Chessenuts Rice Raysons and stewed Prunes Then they gaue their guests cleane sheetes drying them at the fier in their presence and in the morning gaue them for breakfast some buttered tostes or motsell of meate and for all this together with horsemeate each man paid some twenty two or twenty fiue soulz as likewise the bating at noone for horse and man cost each some ten soulz After the ciuill warre I passed through these parts and commonly each meale paid twelue or fifteene soulz with worse interertainment and for breakefasts paid seuerally but no great rate Towards the confines of Flanders the Hoasts onely couer the table and a side table vpon which euerie passenger hath his glasse for the French are curious not to drinke in another mans cup and the Hoasts are onely to bee paid for this seruice Otherwise at times of eating they call the Cookes dwelling neere the Innes who bring the best meates they haue and when the guests haue chosen their meate and agreed for the price they carry it backe to dresse it and so send it warme with sawces In generall through the Cities of France passengers seldome dine at their Innes but with some companions goe to the Tauernes or Cookes shops but at night they must eate with the Hoast that giues them beds where they shall haue cleane sheetes and see them dried before their faces but they are of course cloth and very few chambers are priuate but most haue three or foure beds wherein they lye not single but for the most part with bedfellowes Also the guests as well Merchants and Gentlemen as those of common sort eate at an ordinary table and for supper commonly large with diuers roasted meates each man payes some fifteene soulz He that hiers a chamber in Cities which he may haue well furnished at Paris for some two Crownes a moneth he must buy his meate at Cookes shops which are frequent and very cleanly neither is it any disgrace as with vs to buy a morsell of meate there and to agree for the price before it bee eaten And they that hier chambers can haue no better conueniency for diet either at Paris or in other Cities But hee that stayes long in a Citie may agree in a Citizens house or an Inne for his diet and lodging by the yeere which hee may haue at Paris in extraordinary sort for some one hundred fifty Crownes yeerely and ordinarily for lesse and at Rone for one hundred twenty or one hundred Crownes and in many Cities for eighty Crownes and in many good Innes for sixty Crownes yeerely Drunkennesse is reprochfull among the French and the greater part drinke water mingled with wine and alwaies French wines not Sacke or Spanish wines which are sold as Phisicke onely by Apothecaries or other forraigne Wines whereof I remember not to haue seene any in the Northerne parts of France Yet Marriners Souldiers and many of the common sort vsed to drinke Perry and Syder to very drunkennes yea I haue seene many drink wine with like intemperance and when these kinds of men sit at drinking they vse much mirth and singing in which art they take great delight as the French in generall are by nature chearefull and liuely Women for the most part and virgins alwaies except by stealth they offend against the custome vse to drinke water except it be in the Prouinces yeelding Perry and Syder which all sorts vse to drinke without exception And at Paris I remember to haue seene a poore woman to beg a cup of water which being giuen her she drunke it off and went away merily as if she had receiued a good almes CHAP. III. Of England touching the particular subiects of the first Chapter THE Longitude of England extends nine degrees and a halfe from the meridian of thirteene degrees and a halfe to that of twenty three degrees and the latitude extends fixe degrees from the paralell of fifty degrees and a halfe to that of fifty sixe degrees and a halfe Learned Camden whom I gladly follow in this description of England makes the circuite of all Britany to be one thousand eight hundred thirty six miles This is the most famous Iland of all the World and is diuided into two Kingdomes that of England and that of Scotland England is subeuided into diuers Counties or Shyres and Ilands 1 In the description whereof I will first begin with Cornmall of old inhabited by the Danmonij It is for the most part a Mountanous Country but the soyle is not vnfirtile besides that the people incredibly fatten the same with laying vpon it the owes of the Sea called Orwood and a certaine mud The Sea coast as Camden writeth whom I follow is beautified with very many Townes which haue much shipping The inward parts abound with a rich vaine of Mettals where wonderfull quantitie of most pure Tinne is digged vp and not onely Tinne but Gold and Siluer with it and Dyamonds formed into Angles by nature it selfe which we call Cornish Dyamonds Eringo grows plentifully all along the Sea side and with great labour of the Husbandman they haue such aboundance of Corne as great quantity of wheate is yeerely exported thence into Spaine Also the inhabitants make great gaine by the fishing of Pilchards which they salt and drie in the smoke and export an huge multitude of them yeerely into Spaine and Italy Here is the famous Mount Michael of old called Dinsol and by the inhabitants the Rock Cana. This Rocke is somewhat high and craggy vpon the top whereof is a Chappell dedicated to Michael the Arch-Angell The Towne Falemouth hath a faire Hauen capeable of very many shippes and most safe from stormes where the Rockes doe fortifie two Castles built by Henry the eight and this Hauen is by Ptolomy called Ostium Cenionis 2 Deuonshire likewise inhabited by the Danmonij hath fairer Hauens being no lesse rich in the vaines of Tinne and beautified with frequent Townes In no part of England the ground requireth more expence for in many places it is barren till it bee fatted with the Owes or sand of the Sea which makes it wonderfully fruitfull but in the remotest parts from the Sea this sand is dearely bought The Riuer Plimus giues the name to the Towne Plimmouth of old called Sutton which grew from a fishers Village to a faire Towne by the commoditie of the Hauen being most safe euen for great ships as well in the said Riuer as in another called Tamera Not farre from thence is the
is the Territory called Lennox whereof the Stewards haue long time been Earles of which Family the late Kings of Scotland are discended and namely Iames the sixth who raised this Earledom to a Dukedome giuing that title to the Lord d'Aubigny and these Daubignij seruing in the French and Neapolitane warres were honoured by the Kings of France with addition of Buckles Or in a field Gueules to their ancient coate of Armes with this inscription Distantia Iungo that is Distant things I ioyne Sterling or Striuelin lyes not farre off a little Citie of the Kings hauing a most strong Castle vpon the brow of a steepe rocke 8 Next these towards the North lay the Caledonij somewhat more barbarous then the rest as commonly they are more rude towards the North where not onely the aire is cold but the Country wast and mountanous And here was the Caledonian Wood so knowne to the Roman Writers as it was by them taken for all Britany and the Woods thereof At this day this Region is called by the Scots Allibawne and by the Latines Albania and containes the Bishoprick Dunkeledon and the Territory Argile so called as neere the Irish of which the Cambellan Family hath the title of Earles of Argile who are the generall Iustices of Scotland by right of inheritance and Great Masters of the Kings Houshold 9 Towards the West lay the Epidij inhabiting a wast and Fenny Country now called Cantire that is a corner of land and next lies Assinshire 10 Next lay the Creones which Region is now called Strathuaern 11 Next lay the Cornouacae at the Promontory Hey 12 On the East-side of the Caledonians lay the Vernicones in the fruitfull little Region called Fife where is the Towne of Saint Andrew Metropolitan of all Scotland 13 The little Region Athol is fertile of which the Stuards of the Family of Lorne haue the title of Earles Here is Strathbolgy the seate of the Earles of Huntly of the Family of the Seatons who tooke the name of Gordan by the authority of a Parliament 14 Next lyes Goury hauing fruitfull fields of Wheate whereof Iohn Lord Rethuen was of late made Earle but Arrell in this Region hath long giuen the title of Earle to the Family of Hayes 15 vnder Fife lyes Angush where is Scone famous for the Kings consecration Montrose hath his Earles of the Family of the Grahames but the Douglasses Earles of Angush of an honorable Eamily were made Gouernours by Robert the third of this Region and these Earles are esteemed the chiefe and principall Earles of all Scotland and it is said that they haue right to carry the Kings Crowne at the solemne assemblies of the Kingdome 16. 17 Next lye the two Regions of Marnia and Marria vpon the sea where is Dunetyre the chiefe seate of the Family of the Keythes who by warlike vertue haue deserued to be the Marshalls of the Kingdome and Aberdene that is the mouth of the Dene is a famous Vniuersity And Queene Mary created Iohn Ereskin Earle of Marre who lately was the Regent of Scotland and is by inheritance Sheriffe of the County of Sterling 18 Next lay the Taizeli where now Buquhan is seated 19 Then towards Murrey Frith the V ocomagi of old inhabited Rosse murray and Nesseland 20 More innerly is the Gulfe Vararis right ouer against the Towne Inuernesse 21 The Cantae possessed the corner of land shooting towards the Sea where is the most safe Hauen Cromer 22. 23 Yet more inwardly where Bean Rosse and Southerland are seated the Lugi and Mertae of old inhabited Thus farre Edward the first King of England subdued all with his victorious Army hauing beaten the Scots on all sides In Southerland are Mountaines of white Marble a very miracle in this cold clyme but of no vse the excesse and magnificence in building hauing not yet reached into these remote parts 24 Further neare Catnesse the Catni of old inhabited the Earles of which Country are of the ancient and Noble Families of the Sint-cleres 25 Vrdehead is thought the remotest Promontory of all Britany where the Cornabij of old inhabited 26 I will in one word mention the Ilands In the Gulfe Glotta or Dunbritten Frith lyes the Iland Glotta called Arran by the Scots giuing the title to an Earle Next that lyes Rothesia now called Buthe whence are the Stewards Kings of Scots as they say Then Hellan the Iland of the Sayntes Without the foresaid Gulfe many Ilands lye thicke together vulgarly called the Westerne Ilands and numbred forty foure being of old called by some Hebrides by others Inchades and Leucades and by many as Ptolomy Ebudae Ina one of these Ilands haue a Monastery famous for the buriall of the Kings of Scotland and for the habitation of many holy men among which was Columbus the Apostle of the Picts of whose Cell the Iland was also named Columbkill The Scots bought all these Ilands of the Norwegians as a great strength to the Kingdome though yeelding very little profit the old inhabitants whether Scots or Irish being of desperare daring and impatient of being subiect to any lawes Neare these lye the Orcades vulgarly Orkney about thirty in number yeelding competent quantity of Barley but no Wheate or trees The chiese whereof is Pomonia well knowne by the Episcopall seate and yeelding both Tynne and Leade These Orcades Ilands were subiect to the Danes and the inhabitants speake the Gothes language but Christiern King of the Danes sold his right to the King of Scotland Fiue dayes and nights sayle from the Orcades is the Iland Thule so often mentioned by Poets to expresse the furthest corner of the World whereupon Virgill saith Tibi seruiet vltima Thule that is The furthest Thule shall thee serue Many haue thought that Iseland was this Thule condemned to cold ayre and perpetuall Winter but Camden thinkes rather that Schotland is Thule which the Marriners now call Thilensall being subiect to the King of Scotland In the German Sea towards the coast of Britany are few Ilands saue onely in Edenburg Frith where these are found May Basse Keth and Inche-colme that is the Iland of Columbus Scotland reaching so farre into the North must needs be subiect to excessiue cold yet the same is in some sort mitigated by the thicknesse of the cloudy aire and sea vapours And as in the Northerne parts of England they haue small pleasantnes goodnesse or abundance of Fruites and Flowers so in Scotland they haue much lesse or none at all And I remember that comming to Barwick in the moneth of May wee had great stormes and felt great cold when for two moneths before the pleasant Spring had smiled on vs at London On the West side of Scotland are many Woodes Mountaines and Lakes On the East side towards the Sea I passed Fife a pleasant little Territory of open fields without inclosures fruitfull in Corne as bee all the partes neare Barwick saue that they yeeld little wheate and much