was a Colony of the Romanes appeares both by the authoritie of Ptolemy and Antonine and by many ancient Inscriptions that haue beene found there In this Citie the Emperour Seuerus had his Palace and here gaue vp his last breath which ministers occasion to shew the ancient custome of the Romanes in the military manner of their burials His body was caried forth here by the Souldiers to the Funerall fire and committed to the flames honoured with the Iusts and Turnaments both of the Souldiers and of his owne sonnes His ashes bestowed in a little golden pot or vessel of the Prophyrat stone were carryed to Rome and shrined there in the monument of the Antoniâ—s In this Citie as Spartianâ—â—s maketh mention was the Temple of the Goddesse Bellona to which Seuerus being come thither purposing to offer sacrifice was erroneously led by a rusticall Augur Here Fl Velerius Constantinus surnamed Chlorus an Emperour of excellent vertue and Christian pietie ended his life and was Defied as appeares by ancient Coines and his sonne Constantine being present at his Fathers death forthwith proclaimed Emperour from whence it may be gathered of what great estimation Yorke was in those dayes when the Romane Emperours Court was held in it This Citie flourished a long time vnder the English-Saxons Dominion till the Danes like a mightie storme thundring from out the North-East destroyed it and distained it with the bloud of many slaughtered persons and wan it from Osbright and Flla Kings of Northumberland who were both slaine in their pursuite of the Danes which Alcuine in his Epistle to Egelred King of Northumberland seemed to preâ—age before when he said What signifieth that raining downe of bloud in S. Peters Church of Yorke euen in a faire day and descending in so violent and threatning a manner from the top of the roofe may it not be thought that bloud is comming vpon the Land from the North parts Howbeit Atâ—eâ—stane recouered it from the Danish subiection and quite ouerthrew the Castle with the which they had fortified it yet was it not for all this so freed from warres but that it was subiect to the Times fatally next following Neuerthelesse in the Conquerours time when after many woefull ouerthrowes and troublesome stormes it had a pleasant calme of ensuing peace it rose againe of it selfe and flourished afresh hauing still the helping hand both of Nobility and Gentry to recouer the former dignitie and bring it to the perfection it hath The Citizens fenced it round with new wals and many towers and bulwarkes and ordaining good and wholesome lawes for the gouernment of the same Which at this day are executed at the command of a Lord Maior who hath the assistance of twelue Aldermen many Chamberlaines a Recorder a Towne-Clerke sixe Sergeants at Mace and two Esquires which are a Sword-bearer and the Common Sergeant who with a great Mace goeth on the left hand of the Sword The Longitude of this Citie according to Mercators account is 19. degrees and 35. scruples the Latitude 54. degrees and fortie scruples 10 Many occurrents present themselues with sufficient matter of enlargement to this discourse yet none of more worthy consequence then were those seuerall Battles fought within the compasse of this Countie wherein Fortune had her pleasure as well as in the proofe of her loue as in the pursuit of her tyranny sometime sending the fruits of sweet peace vnto her and otherwhiles suffering her to taste the sowrenesse of warre At Conishorough in the Britaine tongue Câ—aer Conan was a great battle fought by Hengist Captaine of the English-Saxons after he had retyred himselfe thither for his safetie his men being fled and scattered and himselfe discomsited by Aâ—relius Ambrosius yet within few dayes after he brought forth his men to battell against the Britaines that pursued him where the field was bloudy both to him and his for many of his men were cut in pieces and he himselfe had his head chopt off as the British History saith which the Chronicles of the English-Saxons deny reporting that he dyed in peace being surcharged and ouer-worne with the troublesome toyles and trauels of warre Neere vnto Kirkstall Oswie King of Northumberland put Penda the Mercian to flight the place wherein the Battle was ioyned the Writers call Winwid Field giuing it the name by the victory And the little Region about it in times past called by an old name Elmet was conquered by Eadwin King of Northumberland the sonne of Aela after he had expelled Cereticus a British King in the yeare of Christ 620. At Casterford called by Antonine Legeolium and Legetium the Citizens of Yorke slew many of King Ethelreds Army and had a great hand against him in so much as he that before state in his throne of Maiestie was on a sodaine daunted and ready to offer submission But the most worthy of memory was that Field fought on Palâ—-Sunday 1461. in the quarrell of Lancaster and Yorke where England neuer saw more puissant Forces both of Gentry and Nobilitie for there were in the field at one time partakers on both sides to the number of one hundred thousand fighting men When the fight had continued doubtfull a great part of the day the Lancastrians not able longer to abide the violence of their enemies turned backe and fled amaine and such as took part with Yorke followed them so hotly in chase and kild such a number of Noble and Gentlemen that thirtie thousand Englishmen were that day left dead in the field 11 Let vs now loose the point of this compasse and saile into some other parts of this Prouince to finde out matter of other memorable moment Vnder Knansbrough there is a Well called Dâ—â—ping-well in which the waters spring not out of the veynes of the earth but distill and trickle downe from the rockes that hang ouer it It is of this vertue and efficacie that it turnes wood into stone for what wood soeuer is put into it will be shortly couered ouer with a stony barke and be turned into stone as hath beene often obserued At Giggleswicke also about a mile from Settle a Market-Towne there are certaine small springs not distant a quaits cast from one another the middlemost of which doth at euery quarter of an houre ebbe and flow about the height of a quarter of a yard when it is highest and at the ebbe falleth so low that it is not an inch deepe with water Of no lesse worthinesse to be remembred is S. Wilfrids Needle a place very famous in times past for the narrow hole in the close vaulted roome vnder the ground by which womens honesties were wont to be tryed for such as were chaste passe through with much facilitie but as many as had plaid false were miraculously held fast and could not creepe through Beleeue if you list The credible report of a Lampe found burning euen in our Fathers remembrance when Abbeyes were pulled downe and suppressed in the Sepulchre of constantius within a
West hath not obstinately ceased from time to time to flash and mangle it and with his fell irruptions and boysterous Tides to deâ—oure it Another thing there is not vnworthy to be recommended to memory that in this Shire not far from Fournesse Fellâ—s the greatest standing water in all England called Winander-Mere lieth stretched out for the space of ten miles of wonderfull depth and all paued with stone in the bottome and along the Sea-side in many places may be seene heapes of sand vpon which the people powre water vntill it recouer a 〈◊〉 humour which they afterwards boile with Turffes till it become white salt 8 This Country as it is thus on the one side freed by the naturall resistance of the Sea from the force of Inuasions so is it strengthned on the other by many Castles and fortified places that take away the opportunitie of making Roades and Incursions in the Country And as it was with the first that felt the fury of the Saxons crueltie so was it the last and longest that was subdued vnder the West-Saxons Monarchie 9 In this Prouince our noble Arthur who died laden with many trophics of honour is reported by Ninius to haue put the Saxons to flight in a memorable battle neere Duglasse a little Brooke not farre from the Towne of Wiggin But the attempts of warre as they are seuerall so they are vncertaine for they made not Duke Wade happy in his successe but returned him an vnfortunate vnterpriser in the Battle which he gaue to Arduiph King of Northumberland at Billangho in the yeare 798 So were the euents vncertaine in the Ciuill Warres of Yorke and Lancaster for by them was bred and brought forth that bloudy diuision and fatall strife of the Noble Houses that with variable successe to both parties for many yeares together molested the peace and quiet of the Land and defiled the earth with bloud in such violent manner that it exceeded the horrour of those Ciuill Warres in Rome that were betwixt Mariuâ— and Scylla Pompey and Caesar Octauius and Antony or that of the two renowned Houses Valoys and Eurbon that a long time troubled the State of France for in the diuision of these two Princely Families there were thirteene Fields sought and three Kings of England one Prince of Wales twelue Dukes one Marques eighteene Earles one Vicount and three and twentie Barons besides Knights and Gentlemen lost their liues in the same Yet at last by the happy marriage of Henry the seauenth King of England next heire to the House of Lancaster with Elizabeth daughter and heire to Edward the Fourth of the House of Yorke the white and red Roses were conioyned in the happy vniting of those two diuided Families from whence our thrice renowned Soueraigne Lord King Iames by faire sequence and succession doth worthily enioy the Diâ—deme by the benefit of whose happy gouernment this Countie Palatine of Lancaster is prosperous in her Name and Greatnesse YORKE-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXVIII AS the courses and confluents of great Riuers are for the most part fresh in memory though their heads and fountaines lie commonly vnknowne so the latter knowledge of great Regions are not traduced to obliuion though perhaps their first originals be obscure by reason of Antiquitie and the many reuolutions of times and ages In the delineation therefore of this great Prouince of Yorkshire I will not insist vpon the narration of matters neere vnto vs but succinctly run ouer such as are more remote yet neither so sparingly as I may seeme to diminish from the dignitie of so worthy a Country nor so prodigally as to spend time in the superfluous praising of that which neuer any as yet dispraised And although perhaps it may seeme a labour vnnecessary to make relation of ancient remembrances either of the Name or Nature of this Nation especially looking into the difference of Time it selfe which in euery age bringeth forth diuerse effects and the dispositions of men that for the most part take lesse pleasure in them then in divulging the occurrents of their owne times yet I hold it not vnfit to begin there from whence the first certaine direction is giuen to proceede for euen of these ancient things there may be good vse made eitherby imitation or way of comparison as neither the repetition nor the repetition thereof shall be accounted impertinent 2 You shall therefore vnderstand That the Countie of Yorke was in the Saxon tongue called Ebona-yeyne and now commonly Yorkeshire farre greater and more numerous in the Circuit of her miles then any Shire of England Shee is much bound to the singular loue and motherly caâ—â— of Nature in placing her vnder so temperate a clime that in euery measure she is 〈…〉 If one part of her be stony and a sandy barren ground another is fertile and richly adorned with Corne-fields If you here finde it naked and destitute of Woods you shall see it there shadowed with Forrests full of trees that haue very thicke 〈◊〉 sending forth many fruitfull and profitable branches If one place of it be Moorish Mirie and vnpleasant another makes a free tender of delight and presents it selfe to the eye full of beautie and contentiue varietie 3 The Bishopricke of Durham fronts her on the North-side and is seperated by a continued course of the Riuer Tees The Germaine Sea lieth sore vpon her Bast side beating the shores with her boisterous waues and billowes The West part is bounded with Lancashire and Westmerland The South-side hath Cheshire and Darbishire friendly Neighbours vnto her with the which she is first inclosed then with Nottingham and with Lincolne-shires after diuided with that famous Arme of the Sea Humber Into which all the Riuers that water this Country emptie themselues and pay their ordinary Tributes as into the common receptacle and store-house of Neptune for all the watery Pensions of this Prouince 4 This whole Shire being of it selfe so spatious for the more easie and better ordering of her ciuill gouernment is diuided into three parts which according to three quarters of the world are called The West-Riding The East-Riding and The North-Riding West-Riding is for a good space compassed with the Riuer Ouse with the bounds of Lancashire and with the South limits of the Shire and beareth towards the West and South East-Riding bends it selfe to the Ocean with the which and with the Riuer Derment she is inclosed and lookes into that part where the Sunne rising and shewing forth his beames makes the world both glad and glorious in his brightnesse North-Riding extends it selfe Northward 〈◊〉 in as it were with the Riuer Tees and Derwent and a long race of the Riuer Ouse The length of this Shire extended from Haâ—thill in the South to the mouth of Tees in the North are neere vnto seauentie miles the breadth from Flambrough-head to Horn-castle vpon the Riuer 〈◊〉 is fourescore miles the whole Circumference is three hundred and eight miles 5 The Soile of this County for the
three Arch-Flamins whose seates were at London Caerlion and Yorke all of them conuerted by King Lucius into Christian Bishops Sees let vs onely insist vpon the three last by the same King appointed to be Metropolitanes ouer the rest among whom London is said to be chiefe whos 's first Christian Arch-bishop was Thean the builder of S. Peters Church in Cornehill for his Cathedrall as by an ancient Table there lately hanging was affirmed and tradition to this day doth hold Our British Historians doe bring a succession of fifteene Arch-bishops to haue sate from his time vnto the comming of the Saxons whose last was Vodius slaine by King Vortiger for reprehending his heathenish marriage with Râ—wâ—n the Daugher of Hengist At what time began the misery of the Land and of holy Religion both which they layd wast vnder their prophane feete vntill Ethelbert of Kent the first Christian Saxon King aduanced Christainitie Augustine to the Arch-bishopricke of Canterbury when London vnder Melitus became subiect to that See 6 At Caerlion vpon Vske in the time of great Arthur sate Dubritius a man excellently learned and of an holy conuersation he had sate Bishop of Landaffe a long time and with Germanus and Lupus two French Bishops greatly impugned the Pelagian Heresie infecting at that time the Iland very farre whose fame and integritie was such that he was made Arch-bishop of all Wales but growne very old he resigned the same vnto Dauia his Disciple a man of greater birth but greater austeritie of life who by consent of King Arthur remoued his Arch-bishops See vnto Meneuia a place very solitary and meete for meditation the miracles of the man which are said to be many changed both the name of the place into his owne and robbed Caerlion of her Archiepiscopall seate This See of S Dauids as in an ancient Register belonging to that Church is recorded had seauen Bishops Suffraganes subiect vnto it which were Exceter Bathe He eford Landaffe Bangor S. Asaph and â—eâ—nes in Ireland notwithstanding eyther for want of Pall carried into Britanny by Arch-bishop Samâ—son in a dangerous infection of sicknesse either by pouertie or negligence it lost that Iurisdiction and in the dayes of King Henry the first became subiect to the See of Canterbury 7 Yorke hath had better successe then eyther of the former in retayning her originall honour though much impaired in her circuit challenging to haue beene some time Metropolitane ouer all the Bishops in Scotland and although it was made equall in honour and power with Canterbury by Pope Gregory as Beda relateth and had twelue Suffragan Bishoprickes that owed obedience onely foure now acknowledge Yorke their Metropolitane but Canterbury the Superiour for William the Conquerour thinking it dangerous to haue two in like authoritie least the one should set on his Crowne and the other strike it off left Yorke to be a Primate but Canterbury onely the Prinâ—â—â— of all England 8 The Lichfield was made an Archiepiscopall See by Pope Hadrian the first at the suit of Offa the great King of Mercia is manifested by Mathew of Westminster vnto whose Iurisdiction were assigned the Bishoprickes of Winchester Hereford Leicester Sidnacester Helmâ—am and Dunwich and whose first and last bishop was Aldwin That Winchester also had intended an Archiepiscopall Pall the same Author recordeth when Henry Bloys of the bloud royall greatly contended with the Arch bishop of Canterbury for superioritie vnder the pretence of being Cardinall de latere to him an Archiepiscopall Pall was sent with power and authoritie ouer seauen Churches but he dying before that the designe was done the See of Winchester remained in subiection to Canterbury And that long before the See of Dorchester by Oxford had the Iurisdiction of an Arch-bishop is apparant by those Prouinces that were vnder his Diocesse which were Winchester Oxford Lincolne Salisbury Bâ—estow Wells Lichfield Chester and Excester and the first Bishop of this great circuit Berinuâ— was called the Apostle and Bishop of the West Saxons which in his next successor was diuided into two parts Winchester and Dorchester and not long after into Lichfield Sidnacester and Legecester and lastly the See remoued from Dorchester to Lincolne as now it is And thus farre for the diuision of this Realme both Politicke and Ecclesiasticke as it hath stood and stands at this day 9 But the whole Ilands diuision by most certaine Record was anciently made when Iulius Agricâ—la drew a trench or fortification vpon that narrow space of ground betwixt Edenbrough Frith and Dunbretton Bay making the Southerne part a Prouince vnto the Romane Empire Afterwards Hadrian the Emperour seeing perhaps the Prouince too spacious to be well gouerned without great expense drew backe these limits almost fourescore miles shotter euen to the mouth of the Riuer Tyne whence he fortified with a wall of admirable worke vnto Carlile which stood the Lands border while it stood as a Romane Prouince yet the conquering Saxons did spread againe ouer those bounds and as seemeth enlarged their gouernment to that first Tract as by this inscription in a Stone Crosse standing vpon a Bridge ouer the water of Frith appeareth I am a free March as Passengers may ken To Scots to Britaines and to Englishmen 10 But afterward William the Conquerour and Malcolme King of Scotland falling to an agreement for their limits arreared a Crosse vpon Stanemore where on the one side the portraiture and Armes of the King of England was sculptured and of the King of Scots on the other a piece whereof is yet remaining there neere to the Spittle thence called the Rev-Crosse there erected to be a Meare-stone to either Kingdome His successors also abolished the two partitions in the West whereby the Welsh became one Nation and Kingdome with the English It is also said that King Stephen to purchase friendship with the Scottish Nation gaue vnto their King the Countie of Cumberland who with it held both Westmorland and Northumberland but as Newbrigensis writeth he restored them to King Henry the second wisely considering his great power and right to those parts KENT CHAPTER III. KENT the first Prouince appearing in the South of this Kingdome is bounded vpon the North with the famous Riuer Thamisis on the East with the Germane Ocean on the South with Sussex and the narrow Seas and vpon the West and Sussex and Surrey The length thereof extended from Langley in the West vnto Ramsgate Eastward in the Isle of Thanet is about 53. English miles From Rother in the South vnto the Isle of Graine Northward the bredth is not much aboue 26. and the whole circumference about 160. miles 2 Informe it somewhat resembleth the head of a hammer or Battle-axe and lyeth corner-wise into the Sea by Strabo Caesar Diadorus and Ptolemie called Cantium of Cant or Angle or Corner either of Caine a British word which signifieth Bushes or Woods whereof that Countie in those former times was plentifully stored 3 The ayre though not very
Henry the first most stately beautified with a rich Monastery and strong Castle where in the Collegiate Church of the Abbey himselfe and Queene who lay both veiled and crowned with their daughter Maud the Empresse called the Lady of England were interred as the priuate History of the place auoucheth though others bestow the bodies of these two Queenes else-where The Castle King Henry the second razed to the ground because it was the refuge for the followers of King Stephen From whence the North-pole is raised in Latitude 51 degrees and 40 minutes and in Longitude from the first West-point obserued by Mercator 19 degrees and 35. minutes 7 A Castle and Towne of greater strength and antiquitie was Wallingford by Antonie and Ptolemie called Galtena the chiefest Citie of the Attribatians whose large circuit and strong fortifications shew plainly that it was a place of the Romans abode and since in a conceiued safetie hath made many very bold especially when the sparkes of Englands ciuill dissentions were forced to flame in case of the Crowne betwixt Maud the Empresse and King Stephen whither her selfe and associates resorted as their surest defence 8 But of farre greater magnificence and state is the Castle of Windsor a most Princely Palace and Mansion of his Maiestie I will not with Ieffrey affirme it to be built by King Arthur but with better authoritie say it was so thirsted after by the Conquerour that by a composition with the Abbat of Westminster whose then it was he made it to be the Kings Possession as a Place besides the pleasures very commodious to entertaine the King In this Castle that victorious Prince King Edward the third was borne and herein after he had subdued the French and Scots held he at one and the same time as his Prisoners Iohn King of France and Dauid King of Scotland Neither was it euer graced with greater Maiestie then by the institution of the most honourable Order of the Garter a signall Ornament of Martiall Prowesse the inuention thereof some ascribe to be from a Garter falling from his Queene or rather from Ioan Countesse of Salisbury a Lady of an incomparable beautie as she danced before him whereat the by-standers smâ—â—ing he gaue the impresse to checke all euill conceits and in golden Letters imbelished the Garter with this French Posie HONI SOIT QVI MALY PENSE And yet that worthy Clarenceaux alledging the booke of the first institution findes the inuention to be more ancient as when King Richard the first warred against the Turkes Saracens Cypres and Acon he girt the legs of certaine choise Knights with a tache of leather which promised a future glory to the wearers The most Princely Chappell thereof is graced with the bodies of those two great Kings Henry the sixt and Edward the fourth whom the whole Kingdome was too little to containo the one of Lancaster the other of Yorke where they rest now vnited in one mould with a branch of both those Houses euen King Henry the eight who there lyeth also interred and rests in the Lord. 9 Other places of note in this Shire are Sinodum in the North and Watham in the East both of them places of the Romans residence as by their monyes these oftentimes found appeareth Neither was Sunning the least in this Tract that had beene the Seat of eight Bishops before the See was translated thence vnto Shirburne or that to Salisbury Wantage also is not wanting of honour in bringing to life that learned and most valiant King Ealfred the scourge of the Danes and great Monarch of the English And Finchhamsted for wonder inferiour to none where as our Writers doe witnesse that in the yeare a thousand one hundred a Well boyled vp with streames of bloud and fifteene dayes together continued that Spring whose waters made red all others where they came to the great amazement of the beholders 10 The riches and sweet seats that this Country affordeth made many deuout persons to shew their deuotions vnto true pietie in erecting places for Gods diuine seruice and their exemptions from all worldly businesse such were Abington Redding Bysham Bromehall Henâ—ey Hamme and Wallingford whose Vâ—tarie abusing the intents of their Founders ouerthrew both their owne Orders and places of professions all which were dissolued by Act of Parliament and giuen the King to dispose at his will MIDDLESEX CHAPTER XIIII MIDDLESEX so called in regard of the situation as seated betwixt the West-Saxons and East-Angles was sometimes together with Essex and Hartford-shire that part and portion which the East Saxons enioyed for their Kingdome it lyeth bordered vpon the North with Hartford shire vpon the West by Colne is seuered from Buckingham the South by Thamesis from Surrey and Kent and on the East from Essex by the Riuer Lea. 2 The length thereof extended from 〈◊〉 in the East to Morehall vpon Colne in the West is by measure nineteene English miles and from South 〈◊〉 in the North to his Majesties Mannour of Hampton-Court in the South are little aboue sixteene miles the whole Circumference extending to ninetie miles 3 In foâ—â—e it is almost square for ayre passing temperate for soile abundantly fertile and for pasturage and graine of all kindes yeelding the best so that the Wheat of this Countie hath serued a long time for the manchâ—t to our Princes Table 4 It lyeth seated in a vale most wholesome and rich hauing some hils also and them of good 〈◊〉 from whose tops the prospect of the whole is seene like vnto Zoar in Egypt or rather like a Paradise and Garden of God 5 The ancient Inhabitants knowne to Caesar were the Trinobants whom he nameth to be the most puissant in the Iland whose chiefe Citie and State yeelding him subiection made the whole with lesse losse to the Romans to beare the yoke of their owne bondage and to come in vnder termes of truce But when their forces in these parts were spent and the Empire shaken by intestine warres the Saxons setting their eyes vpon so faire a soile made their footing as sure herein which lastly with Hartford and Essex was the portion of the East-Saxons Kingdome 6 Fiue Princely Houses inheritable to the English Crowne are seated in this Shire which are Enfield Hanworth White-hall S. Iames and Hampton-Court a Citie rather in shew then the Palace of a Prince and for stately Port and gorgeous building not inferiour to any in Europe At Thistleworth once stood the Palace of Richard King of the Romans Earle of Cornewall which the Londâ—ner in a tumultuous broile burned to the ground many other stately Houses of our English Nobilitie Knights and Gentlemen as also of the worshipfull Citizens of London are in this Shire so sumptuously built and pleasantly seated as the like in the like circuit are no where else to be found Neere vnto Thamesis entrance into this Countie is kept the remembrance of Caesars entrance ouer Thamesis by the name of Coway-Stakes stucke fast in the bottome to
impeach his designes and further at Stanes a Maire-stone once stood for a marke of Iurisdiction that London had so farre vpon Thamesis 7 Which Citie is more ancient then any true record beareth fabuled from Brute Troynouant from Lud Ludstone But by more credible Writers Tacitus Ptolemy and Antonine Londinium by Aminianâ—â— Mercellinus for her successiue prosperitie Augusta the greatest title that can be giuen to any by Britaines Londayn by Strangers Londra and by vs London This Citie doth shew as the Cedars among other trees being the seat of the British Kings the chamber of the English the modell of the Land and the Mart of the world for thither are brought the silke of Asia the spices from Africa the Balmes from Grecia and the riches of both the Indies East and West no Citie standing so long in same nor any for diuine and politicke gouernment may with her be compared Her walls were first set by great Constantine the first Christian Emperour at the suit of his mother Qu Helen reared with rough stone and British Bricke three English miles in compasse thorow which are now made seauen most faire gates besides three other passages for entrance Along the Thamesis this wall at first ranged and with two gates opened the one Doure-gate now Dowgate and the other Billinsgate a receptacle for Ships In the midst of this wall was set a mile-marke as the like was in Rome from whence were measured their stations for carriage or otherwise the same as yet standeth and hath beene long knowne by the name of London Stone Vpon the East of this Citie the Church of S. Peters is thought to be the Cathedrall of Restitus the Christians Bishops See who liued in the raigne of Great Constantine but since S. Pauls in the West part from the Temple of Diana assumed that dignitie whose greatnesse doth exceed any other at this day and spires so high that twice it hath beene consumed by lightning from heauen Besides this Cathedrall God is honoured in one hundred twentie one Churches more in this Citie that is ninetie six within the wals sixteene without but within the Liberties and nine more in her Suburbs and in Fâ—z Stephens time thirteene Conuents of religious Orders It is diuided into 26 Wards gouerned by so many graue Aldermen a Lord Maior and two Sherifs the yearely choice whereof was granted them by Patent from King Iohn in whose time also a Bridge of stone was made ouer Thames vpon nineteene Arches for length breadth beautie and building the like againe not found in the world 8 This London as it were disdaning bondage hath set her selfe on each side far without the walls and hath lefther West-gate in the midst from whence with continuall buildings still affecting greatnesse she hath continued her streets vnto a Kings Palace and ioyned a second Citie to her selfe famous for the Seat and Sepulchre of our Kings and for the Gates of Iustice that termely there are opened onely once a Bishops See whose title died with the man No walls are set about this Citie and those of London are left to shew rather what it was then what it is Whose Citizens as the Lacedemonians did doe impute their strength in their men and not in their wals how strong toeuer Or else for their multitude cannot be circulated but as another Ierusalem is inhabited without walls as Zachary said The wealth of this Citie as Isay once spake of Nilus growes from the Reuenewes and haruest of her South-bounding Thames whose traffique for merchandizing is like that of Tyrus whereof Ezekiel speakes and stands in abundance of Siluer Iron Tinne and Lead c. And from London her channell is nauigable straitned along with medowing borders vntill she taketh her full libertie in the German Seas Vpon this Thamesis the Ships of Tharsis seeme to ride and the Nauy that rightly is termed the Lady of the Sea spreads her saile Whence twice with luckie successe hath beene accomplished the compassing of the vniuersall Globe This Riuer Canutus laying siege against London sought by digging to diuert and before him the Danes had done great harmes in this Citie yet was their State recouered by King Elfred and the Riuer kept her olde course notwithstanding that cost In the times of the Normans some ciuill broiles haue beene attempted in this Citie as in the dayes of King Iohn whereinto his Barons entred and the Tower yeelded vnto Lewis And againe Wat Tyler herein committed outragious cruelties but was worthily struck downe by the Maior and slaine in Smithfield This Cities graduation for Latitude is the degree 51. 45. minutes and in Longitude 20. degrees 39. minutes 9 In this Countie at Barnet vpon Easter-day a bloudy battell was fought betwixt Henry the sixt and Edward the fourth wherein were slaine one Marques one Earle three Lords and with them ten thousand Englishmen ESSEX CHAPTER XV. ESSEX by the Normans exsessa and by the vulgar Essex is a Countie large in compasse very populous and nothing inferiour to the best of the Land 2 The â—orme thereof is somewhat Circular excepting the East part which shooteth her selfe with many Promontories into the Sea and from Horsey Iland to Haidon in the West the broadest part of the Shire are by measure fortie miles and the length from East-Haâ—â— vpon Thamesis in the South to Sâ—urmere vpon the Riuer Stow in the North are thirtie-fiue miles the whole in Circumference one hundred fortie sixe miles 3 It lyeth bounded vpon the North with Suffolke and Cambridge-Shires vpon the West with Hertford and Middlesex vpon the South by Thamesis is parted from Kent and the East-side thereof is altogether washed with the German Sea 4 The ayre is temperate and pleasant onely towards the waters somewhat aguish the soile is rich and fruitfull though in some places sandy and barren yet so that it neuer frustrates the husbandmans hopes or fils not the hands of her haruest-labourers but in some part so fertile that after three yeares glebe of Saffron the Land for 18. more will yeeld plentie of Barley without either dung or other fatning earth 5 Her ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romanes were by Caesar called the Trinobants of whom in the former Chapter we haue spoken and in our History shall speake more at large But this name perished with the age of the Empire the Saxons presently framed a new and with Hertford and Middlesex made it their East-Saxons Kingdome vntill that Egbert brought this and the whole into an entire and absolute Monarchy the Daues after them laid so sore for this Prouince that at â—eamfleet and Hauenet now Shobery they fortified most strongly and at Barklow besides the hils mounted for their burials the Danewort with her red beryes so plentifully grow that it is held and accounted to spring from the bloud of the Danes which in that place was spilt and the hearb as yet is called from them the Danes-bloud neither yet were they quelled to surcease that quarrell but at Ashdowne
and the Trinobantes as their Writers declare and in the Heptarâ—hy was possessed by the East-Saxons excepting some small portion thereof that the Mercian Kings enioyned The Danes also in their ouer-runnings sought to stay themselues in this Shire and at Ware then Weare pitched downe their rest and hope for passing the Lea in their light Pinnaces and Shallops raised therein a Fort which maugre the English they kept vntill that by the wise police of King Elfred that Riuer was parted into to more running streames whereby their Ships perished and they intercepted both of prouision and farther supply 5 The Romans before them had made Verolaxium in this Shire their greatest for account which in Neroes time was a Municipiall as Nimus in his Catalogue of Cities doth call it or as Tacitus a Free Towne sacked by Boduo that euer eternized Queene of the Ictanians when seuenty thousand of the Romans and Consecrates by her reuenging sword perished the site and circuit whereof in this Card we haue set according to our view and measure there taken whose magnificence for Port and stately Architecture were found by her large and arched Vaults in the dayes of King Edgar which were digged into and cast downe by 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 Abbots of S. Albanes for that they were the receptacles and lurking holes of 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 the ruines of which haue raised the beautie of her suruiuing and faire S. Albanes where 〈◊〉 the great Mercian in great deuotion built a most stately 〈◊〉 whose Church yet standing retaineth the ashes of many Nobles there slaine in the quarrell of Yorke and Lancaster and a Font of solid brasse brought out of Scotland by Sir Richara Lea from the siege of Lâ—eth 6 Many other Townes both for Commerce stately Buildings and of ancient Record this Shire affordeth whereof Hertford though the Shire-Towne is not the richest the passage thorow Ware hath left her wayes so vntrodden to preuent which in former times that Riuer at Ware was chained vp and the Bayliffe of Hertford had the custody of the Key which howsoeuer they haue lost yet hath the Towne gotten her Gouernour to be preferred from the name of a Bilisse vnto a Maior assisted with nine Burgâ—sses a Recorder and two Sergeants their Attendants Herein a Castle for situation pleasant for Trench Walles and Riuer sufficiently fenced was lately seene but marked to destinie as the Towne to decay hath found the hand of Fortune to ouermatch her strength and to ruinate the Priory S. Nicholas and S. Maries Churches besides a Cell of S. Albanes Monkes that therein were seated The like fate fals vnto Hemsled and her faire Castle wherein Richard King of the Romans left his life Yet Lingely is graced both in the birth of Prince Edmund the fifth sonne to King Edward the third and the buriall of Richard the second that vnfortunate King who in the Cell of Fryers Preachers was there first buried but afterwards remooued and enshrined at Westminster And in another Langley neere the East from thence was borne that Pontificall Break-speare Bishop of Rome knowne by the name of Hadrian the fourth and famous for his stirrup-holding by Fredericke the Emperour whose breath was lastly stopped by a Flie that flew into his mouth 7 The ciuill Battles that in this Shire haue beene sought in the Map it selfe are inserted and therefore here omitted but the more ancient remembred vnto vs by Osister-hill neere S. Albans whom the judicious Combden supposeth to haue beene the Campe of Ostorius the second Lieutenant and Subdueâ— of great Caractatus as also seuen small round Hils betwixt Sieuennedge and Kuâ—â—worth in which are supposed some Romane Souldiers to lie buried 8 Religious Houses built and suppressed the chiefest for account in this Shire were S. Albans Roâ—ston Ware Sopwell Langeley besides them at Hertford whom Beda cals Horudford which Cities graduation is distant and remoued from the Equator 52. degrees 5. minutes of Latitude and set from the first point of the West according to Mercator in the 20 degree 29. minutes of Longitude The â—â—â—domes whereof were enioyed onely by thoâ—â— two honourable 〈◊〉 whose atchieuements we haue also therein expressed BEDFORD-SHIRE CHAPTER XX. BEDFORD-SHIRE seated in the South-East of this Iland is a plaine and champion Country and lyeth bounded vpon the North with Huntington-shire vpon the East with Cambridge and Hartford-shires vpon the South with Hartford and Buckingham-shires and vpon the West with Buckingham and Northampton-shires 2 The forme thereof is somwhat ouall and not very large for from Tilbroke in the North vnto Stuâ—â—am in the South are but twentie-foure English miles and from Turny in the West vnto Hatley Coking in the East are not fully foureteene the whole in Circumference about seauenty three miles 3 The Ayre is temperate and the Soile bounteous especially the North whose Borders the fruitfull Ouse with her many windings watereth The South is more leane and with greater industry bringeth forth Barley no better else-where Generally this County is Champion though some places be sprinkled with Pasturage and Woods 4 The ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romanes that held in this Shire were part of the Cattieuchlani a stout and warre-strring people and yet vpon the report of Caesars proceeding sent him their subiection for peace But when that conquering Nation had brought Britaine into a Prouince vnder Rome their Legions lay at Selenae and Magintum which are now Sandy and Dunstable places of memorable note in this Shire After them the Saxons coueting for so faire a Seate first dispossessed the Britaines vnder the leading of Cuthwulfe the West-Saxon about the yeare of Grace 572. who making it their owne was lastly enioyed by the Mercians as a part of their Kingdome 5 In the yeare of Christs Incarnation 1399 immediately before those Ciuill Warres that rent in pieces the peace of this Land betweene the Princes of Lancaster and Yorke the Riuer Ouse neere vnto Harwood stood sodainly still and refrained to passe any farther so that forward men passed three miles together on foot in the very depth of her Channell and backward the waters swelled vnto a great height which was obserued by the judicious to foretell some vnkinde diuision that shortly should arise 6 This Countie among the common calamities of the Land when it lay trampied vnder the fect of the Danes sustained a part and after that in the time of King Stephen when the Ciuill Warres thundred betwixt Maud the Empresse and himselfe the Shire-Towne was sore wasted with great slaughter of men So when the Barons forsooke their allegeance to King Iohn the Towne and Castle were rendred vp vnto their hands and lastly by King Henry the third laid leuell euen with the ground some ruinous walles appearing towards the Ouse but not a stone left vpon the Mount where stood his foundation 7 This Towne by the Britaine 's was called Lettidur and of vs Bedford being the chiefest in the Countie from whom it taketh the name and is most fruitfull and
retire themselues thither and to make it their receptacle for solitude hauing on the West and South Northumberland and more South-Eastward the Iland Farne 2 The forme of it is long and narrow the West side narrower then the East and are both conioyned by a very small spang of land that is left vnto Comes The South is much 〈◊〉 then the rest It is from East to West about two thousand two hundred and fiftie pases and from North to South twelue hundred and fiftie pases so that the circumference cannot be great 3 The ayre is not very good either for health or delight as being seated on those parts that are subiect to extremitie of cold and greatly troubled with vapours and toggy mists that arise from the Seas 4 The soile cannot be rich being rockie and full of stones and vnfit for Corne and Tâ—â—age It is neither commended for hils to seed sheepe nor pastures to fit Cattle 〈…〉 replenished with sweet springs or running riuellets onely one excepted 〈…〉 standing pond The onely thing this Iland yeeldeth is a stand accomodate 〈…〉 and fowling 5 Notwithstanding this is very worthy of note concerning the same which Alcun wrote in an Epistle to Egelred King of Northumberland namely that it was a place more venerable then all the places of Britaine and that after the departure of S. Paulinus from Yorke there Christian Religion began in their Nation though afterwards it there felt the first beginning of misery and calamitie being left to the spoyle of Pagans and Mâ—â—â—oants 6 It is also remembred of this Iland that sometimes there hath beene in it an Episcopall See which Aâ—dan the Scot instituted being called thither to Preach the Christian Faith to the people of Northumberland being thus delighted with the solitary situation thereof as a most fit place for retire But afterwards when the Danesâ—isled â—isled and robbed all the Sea-Coasts the Episcopall See was translated to Durham 7 This Iland so small in account either for compasse or Commoditie and so vnpeopled and vnprofitable cannot be numerous in Townes and Villages It hath in it onely one Towne with a Church and a Castle vnder which there is a commodious Hauen defended with a Block-house situate vpon in hill towards the South-East FARNEILE THis I le South-eastward seuen miles from Holy Iland sheweth it selfe distant almost two miles from Bambrough Castle On the West and South it beareth vpon Northumberland and on the North-east-side it hath other smaller Ilands adioyning to it as Widopens Staple Iland which lie two miles off Bronsinan and two lesser then these which are called the Wambes 2 The forme of this I le is round and no larger in compasse then may easily be ridden in one halfe of a day The bredth of it is but fiue miles and the length no more The whole circumference extends it selfe no further then to fifteene miles 3 The ayre is very vnwholesome and subiect both to many Dysenteries and other diseases by reason of the mistie fogges and exhalations that are thereunto drawne vp from the Ocean It is many times troubled with vnusuall tempests of windes with boisterous fury of stormy raines and with seuerall and vncouth rages of the Sea 4 The soile cannot be fertile being encircled about with craggy clifts neither hath it in it much matter either of pleasure or profit It can neither defend it selfe from cold lacking fuell as Wood Coale Turffes c. nor from famine wanting food as Corne Pastures Cattle c. The best commoditie it yeelds is Fish and Fowle 5 This thing neuerthelesse is worthy to be remembred of it which Beda writing of the life of Cuthbert Bishop of Lindisfarne that Tutelar Paâ—ron of the Northerne Englishmen reporteth namely that in this I le he built a Citie fitting his gouernment and erected certaine houses in the same the whole building standing almost round in compasse and reaching the space of foure or fiue pearches The wall about it he made higher then a mans height to with-hold and keepe in the want on lasciuiousnesse both of his thoughts and eyes and to eleuate the whole intention of his minde vp to heauenly desires that he might wholly giue himselfe to the seruice of God But these are all made the ruines of time as sithence many other Monuments haue beene of worthy antiquitie 6 I cannot report that there are now many houses standing in it much lesse Townes or Villages Onely this that it hath a Tower or place of Fortification belonging vnto it placed well-neere in the middle part of the I le GARNSEY THis Iland lieth about fiue leagues Northwest from Iersey and is compassed like to her neighbour with the British Sea It lieth in length from Plymouth bay South-west to Lancrosse de Anckeâ—â— Northeast thirteene miles in bredth from S. Martins point Southeast to the Howe Northwest nine miles and is in circuit thirtie sixe miles The Emperour Antonine hauing the rule and domination of France at that time called Gaule from whence the word Gallia is deriued did name this Iland Sarnia which afterward by the change of Times and corruption of Languages was long since and is at this day called Garnsey 2 This I le in forme and fashion standeth in the Sea much like to a Parke that is incompassed round about with a Pale of Rockes being very defensible vnto the Iland from the attempting innouation of enemies 3 The Aire and Climate of this I le hath little or no difference in temper or qualitie from that of Iersey And this deserues to be remembred of it that in this I le is neither Toade Snake Adder or any other venemous creature and the other hath great plentie 4 It standeth for the most part vpon a rocke very high in many places from the Sea Neuerthelesse the Soile is very fruitfull yeelding forth great plentie of grasse for their Sheepe and other Cattell which they haue to serue all vses Their fields in the Summer time are so naturally garnished with flowers of all sorts that a man being there might conceit himselfe to be in a pleasant artificiall garden 5 The Inhabitants are not so much giuen to tillage as they of Iersey though the soile be as fruitfull They haue of late taken great delight in planting and setting of trees of all sorts and especially of Apples by reason whereof they make much Cider Their commodities are alike and their helpes from the Sea no lesse or rather more 6 In this I le are many great steepe Rocks among which is found a hard stone called by the Frenchmen Smyris which we terme Emerill This stone is seruiceable for many purposes and many Trades as Glasiers c. but especially for the Goldsmiths and Lapidaries to cut their precious stones 7 It hath a head of Land vpon the North part thereof the passage into which is so narrow that a man would thinke that at euery Tyde the Sea beating strongly on both sides it were in a continuall danger to be sundred from