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king_n	black_a	cover_v	queen_n	22,474	5	10.3289	5	false

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ID	Title	Author	Corrected Date of Publication (TCP Date of Publication)	STC	Words	Pages
A49620	The voyage of Italy, or, A compleat journey through Italy in two parts : with the characters of the people, and the description of the chief towns, churches, monasteries, tombs, libraries, pallaces, villas, gardens, pictures, statues, and antiquities : as also of the interest, government, riches, force, &c. of all the princes : with instructions concerning travel / by Richard Lassels, Gent. who travelled through Italy five times as tutor to several of the English nobility and gentry ; never before extant.	Lassels, Richard, 1603?-1668.; S. W. (Simon Wilson)	1670 (1670)	Wing L465; ESTC R2418	265,097	737

and Land Its ayre was alwayes esteemed so pure that the great men of Rome had either their Villas in Naples or hard by It s well built well paued well furnished with excellent prouisions well filled with nobility and the nobility well mounted The chief street is strada di Toledo paued with freestone and flanckt with noble Pallaces and houses We entered into some of them and others we saw which had not recouered their embonpoint since they had been sick of Mazaniellos disease Their very looks shewd vs that their sickness had been Conuultion-Fitts The chief Pallaces are these The stately Pallace of the Viceroy that of Grauina Caraffa Vrsino Sulmone Toledo c. Most of the houses of Naples are made flat at top to walk vpon a most conuenient thing to breath vpon in the fresh Euenings and easy to be imitated by other countryes I saw here also the seueral publick places of Assemblyes of the nobility according to their seueral rancks These places are like open walking places rayld about with high iron rayles and painted within Then the Molo running a quarter of a mile into the Sea 〈…〉 and affording great refreshment to the townes men who walk here in the euenings in sommer where they are sure to coole their lungs with a sweet fresco At the end of the Molo stands mounted the high Lanterne to direct ships home safe in the night and a fine fountain of fresh water As for the Churches here they yeeld to none in Italy The Domo is ancient and therefore out of the mode a little yet it hath a moderne Chappel which is very beautifull and is one of the finest in Europe both for brazen statues rich painting The Cupola was painted by the rare hand of Domenichino In this Chappel is the tombe of S. Ianuarius Bishop of Beneuent and now Patron of this towne whose blood being conserued in a little glasse and concrete melts and growes liquid when it s placed neare to his Head and euen bubles in the glasse A French nobleman Count of la Val was conuerted from Caluinisme to the Catholick Religion vpon sight of this wonder On the left hand of this Chappel without lyes buryed Pope Innocent the IV who ordered first that Cardinals should weare red hatts The Verses vpon his Tomb● told me this In the Sacristy are kept many pretious guifts of Princes and diuers Relicks of Saints enchased in gold and syluer The Annunciata is both neat and deuout the Cupola and roof are well painted guilt The two Infants of Bethleem with their seueral wounds one in the head the other in the body are showne here The Hospital is ioyneing to it and is of great reception It maintaines two thousand sick and decrepid in it besides aboue 800 orphans poore children Neare the great Hospital stands S. Peters Church and before it th● Altar vpon which as the Inscription sayth S. Peter sayd masse at his first comeing to Naples The Theatins Church called S. Pauls is very neat and if you saw it with its best hangings on you would think it one of the neatest Churches in Italy The roof is curiously painted and guilt Here I saw the rich Tombe of Beato Caëtano a holy man of this Order and the Tabernacle of the High Altar both very rich In the Sacristy they ha●● as rich ornaments as in any Church of Italy The Iesuits Church here is the best they haue in Italy if it be not a little too wide for its length In the Sacristy I saw the richest ornaments for the Altars and the best syluer candlesticks that I haue seen any where els It s rich in painting sculptures marble The High Altar was not yet finished but promiseth wonders The Franciscans Church called S. Maria Noua is very trim with its neat Chappels and Tombes and guilt roof Here I saw the Tombe of Lotrech who commanded so long the French forces in this kingdome His vertue in military affairs was so great that his very enemye● admireing his worth haue caused his body to be translated out of an obscure place where it lay before into this Church and Tombe I wonder they did not cause those words of Virgil to be put vpon it Si Pergama dextr● defendi possent etiam hâc defensa fuissent The Church of the Dominicans is very hansome too if you do not surprise it and take it before it be dressed I saw it once in its best attire hung with a rare sute of embrodered hangings which set it out with great aduantage I saw also here the Crucifix which spoke to S. Thomas of Aquin the Doctor of this Order and Country and sayd Benè de me scripsisti Thoma In the Sacristy of this Church are kept in seueral coffins some couered with white some with black veluet the bodyes of seueral great persons depositated here till their Tombes should be made as of Alphonso the first King of Naples and Arragon of Queen Ioanne the vnfortunate that of an Emperor of Constantinople that of Durazzo that of the Marquis of Vasti with diuers others The Church of the Oliuetan Fathers is stately here lyes buryed Alexander ab Alexandro a great antiquary whose ingenious booke Genialium dierum giues light to many bookes by the vnshelling of a world of ancient customes of the Romans In this Church also is the Tombe of braue Marchese di Piscara surnamed the Thunderbolt of warre The words vpon this Tombe are so ingenious that though I professe not to set downe many Epitaphs in this my voyage I cannot but striue to carry them into other countyes They are these Quis iacet hoc gelido sub marmore Maximus ille Piscator belli gloria pacis hon●s Nunquid hic pisces cepit Non Ergo quid Vrbes Magnanimos Reges oppida regna duces Dic quibus haec cepit Piscator retibus Alto Consilio intrepido corde alacrique manu Qui tantum rapuere ducem Duo Numina Mars Mors. Vt raperent quidnam compulit Jnuidia Nil nocuere ipsi viuit nam Fama superstes Quae Martem Mortem vincit Inuidiam The Church of S. Iohn Carbonare is considerable for it self but much more for the stately Tombe in it of King Robert In the Church of the Nunnery which stands at the foot of the hill as you go vp to the Carthusians I saw a most curious Tabernacle vpon the Altar of pretious polished stones It s one of the richest I haue seen any where but that of Florence described aboue Then we mounted vp that windeing hill to the Carthusians Church and Monastery called S. Martins It s the most sumptuous thing in all Europe for a Monastery whether you regard its situation or its fabrick It s situated vpon a high hil lvnder the wing of the Castle S. Elmo to put Castles in mind that they ought to defend and protect Religion The whole quandrangle or cloyster of this Monastery

may know what to import what to export It makes the mechanick come loaden home with a world of experimental knowledge for the improueing of his trade It makes the feild officer a knowing Leader of an army by teaching him where an army in forrain countryes can march securely passe riuers easily incamp safely auoid ambuscades and narrow passages discretly and retreat orderly It makes the Common soldier play the spy wel by making him speak the ennemyes language perfectly that so mingling with them he may find their designes and crosse their plottes In fine it makes a nobleman fitt for the noblest employment that is to bee Ambassador abroad for his king in forrain countryes and carry about with him his kings person which he represents and his kings word which he engageth 7. Traueling brings a man a world of particular profits It contents the minde with the rare discourses we heare from learned men as the Queen of Saba was rauished at the wisdome of Salomon It makes a wiseman much the wiser by making him see the good and the bad in others Hence the wiseman sayth Sapiens in terram alienigenarum gentium pertransiet bona enim mala in hominibus tentabit It makes a man think himself at home euery where and smile ●t vniust exile It makes him wellcome home a gaine to his Neighbours sought af●er by his betters and listened vnto with admiration by his inferiours It makes him sit still in his old age with satisfaction and trauel ouer the world againe in his chair and bed by discourse and thoughts In fine its an excellent Commentary vpon historyes and no man vnderstands Liuy and Caesar Guicciardin and Monluc like him who hath made exactly ●he Grand Tour of France and the Giro of Italy 8. Trauelling makes my young Nobleman returne home againe to his country like a blessing Sunn For as the Sunn who hath been traueling about the world these fiue thousand and odd yeares not onely enlightens those places whi●h hee visits but also enrich●th them with all sorts of fruits and mettales so the nobleman by long traueling hauing enlightened his vnderstanding with fine notions comes home like a glorious Sunn and doth not onely shine birght in the firmament of his country the Parlament house but also blesseth his inferiours with the powerfull influences of his knowing spirit 9. In fine Examples the best Philosophy shew vs that the greatest Princes Europe hath seen these many years to wit Charles the V. and the King of Sueden Gustauus Adolphus where both of them great trauelers the first had been twice in England as often in Africk four times in France six times is Spayne seuen in Italy and nine in Germany The second had traueld incognito as M. Wats writes of him into Holland France Italy and Germany in his youth which made him say afterwards to the French Ambassador Mareshal Brezé in a kind of threatening way that he knew the way to Paris as wel as to Stockholme Adde to this that the wisest and greatest among the ancien● Philosophers Plato Pythagoras Anaxagoras Anacharsis Apollonius Architas and Pi●tacus which last left his supreame Command of Mytelen to trauel were all great trauelers and that S. Hierome who being no Bishop and consequently not obliged to residence hauing traueled into France Italy Greece and the Holy Land purchased to himself such rare acquisitions of learning by his trauels and languages that among all the ancient Fathers and Doctors The Church in her Collect on his day calls him onel● Doctorem maximum the greatest Doctor And so much for the profit of Traueling Now for as much as concernes the second Lesson to wit the Traueling with profit diuers things are to be taken notice of some by the Parents of those that trauel others by those themselues that trauel of all which I will speak breefly As for the Parents their greatest care ought to be of prouideing there children I speak to men of high condition a good Gouernour to trauel with them and haue a care of their Persons and breeding that is play the part of the Archangel Raphaël to yong Tobie and Lead them safe abroad and bring them safe home Ego sanum ducam reducam filium tuum Tob. 5. v. 20. And here I could wish indeed that Parents could be as happy in their choyce and finde men Angels for Gouernours to their children vpon condition they should requite them as yong Tobie offered to requite the Archangel his Gouernour whom he tooke to be a man For the education of children is a thing of that high concerne to the Commonwealth that in this Parents should spair no coste whatsoeuer but rather imitate the old Lacedemonians who tooke more care of their youth then of any thing els in their Commonweath In so much that when Antigonus a●d of them fifty yong youths for hostages they answered him that they had rather giue him twice as many made men Seing then yong youths are the future hopes of families and Commonwealths their education ought not to be committed but to men of great parts and excellent breeding For I haue allwayes thought that a yong Noblemans train ought to be like his Clothes His Lacquais and footmen are like his Galoshes which he leaues at the dores of those he visits His Valets de Chambre are like his night gowne which he neuer vseth but in his chamber and leaues them there when he goes in visits His gentlemen attendants are like his seueral rich sutes which he wears not all at once but now one now an other and sometimes none at all of them His groome is like his rideing cloake and neuer appears neare him but vpon the road But his Gouernour is like his shirt which is allwayes next vnto his skinn and person and therefore as yong Noblemen are curious to haue their shirts of the finest linnen so should they haue their Gouernours of the finest thread and the best spunn men that can be found Hence the ancients as they were carefull in honouring the memory of those that had binn Gouernours to great Heroes as of Chyron Gouernour of Hercules Iason Paris Achilles and other braue heroes Miscus Gouernour of Vlysses Eudorus of Patroclus Dares of Hector Epitides of Iulus Connidas of Theseus all of them choyce men So they were in chooseing the rarest men for that great employment to be their childrens Gouernours that is in their language Custodes comites iuuentutis Principum magnatum For not euery honest and vertuous man as some Parents think is fit for this employment Those parts indeed would do well in a Stuard and a Soliciter but many things els besides these must concurre to make vp a good Gouernour I would haue him then to be not onely a Vertuous man but a Virtuoso too not onely an honest man but a man of honour too not onely a gentleman borne but a gentile man allso by breeding a man not onely comely of person by

nearest Posteway I haue gone or come all these wayes in my fiue voyages into Italy and though I preferre the last for speed and conueniency yet I will describe the others too that my yong Traueler may know how to streere his course either in time of plague or warre My first Voyage into Italy MY first voyage was through Flanders and Germany and so to Trent The way is from England to Dunkerque from thence to Furne Newport Ostend Bruges Gant Brussels Louain Liege Colen Mayence Francfort and so crossing to Munichen the Court of the Duke of Bauaria and from thence to Ausburg and Inspruck you come soone to Trent which stands vpon the confines of Germany and lets you into Italy by Treuiso belonging to the Venetians To describe all these foresayd places would take me too much time from my designe of describing Italy and therefore I content my self onely to haue named them My second Voyage MY second Voyage was by the way of France where I started from Paris and made towards Lyons in the way I tooke notice of these places Yssone a neat house belonging then to Monsieur Essolin The house is so pritty that I think it worth the trauelers seeing and my describing It stands in the shade of a thick groue of trees and is wholly built and furnished al' Italiana Vnder the side of the house runns a little brooke which being receiued into a Basin of freestone iust as long as the house and made like a ship that is sharp at both ends and wide in the middle it is clouen and diuided in two by the sharp end of this ship and conueighed in close channels of freestone on both sides of the ship or basin into which it emptyes it self by seueral tunnels or pipes so that all this water spouting into the open ship on both sides by four and twenty tunnels makes vnder the windowes of the house such a perpetual purleing of water like many fountains that the gentle noise is able to make the most iealous man sleep profundly At the other end of the house this water yssueth out of the other end of the sayd ship and is courteously intreated by seueral hidden pipes of lead to walke into the house instead of running by so fast Which it doth and is presently led into the Cellars and Buttery and not onely into these but also into the kitchen stables chambers and bathing roome all which it furnisheth with water either for necessity or pleasure Then being led into the curiours garden it s mett there by a world of little open channels of freestone built like knots of flowers all which it fills brimfull and makes euen Flowers of water Then running vp and downe here and there among the fragrant delights of this garden as if it had forgotten its errand to the Sea it seems to be so taken with those sweet beds of flowers and so desirous of resting vpon them after so many miles runing that i● offers to turne it self into any posture rather then be turned out of this sweet place From Yssonne I came to Fontainbelleau where I saw that Kingly house the Nonesuch of France It stands in the midst of a great Forrest full of Royal game and was the place of delight of Henry the Fourth The house is capable of lodgeing four kings with their seueral Courts The Court of the Cheual blanc is a noble squaire of building but the lowness of the buildings and lodgeings shews they are for the lower Sort of people and the seruant-lodgings to the Royal appartiments The Oual Court is a good old building The Kings and Queens lodgings with their Cabinets groane vnder their rich guilt roofes The Gallery of staggs heads is a stately roome then which nothing can be more Caualierly furnished except such an other gallery hung with Turkish standards wonne in warre The other long Galleries of Romances and Fables painted by Simon Voyët and other are much esteemed the onely pitty is that such true painting should not haue been employed vpon true histories The Salle of the Conference is a stately Roome where the Bishop of Eureux afterwards called the Cardinal du Perron in presence of king Henry the Fourth the Chanceler fiue Iudges of both Religions and the whole Roome full of learned men so confuted Monsieur Plessis Mornay the Achilles of those of Charenton that after the first dayes Conference he durst neuer enter the list againe as he promised but dyed soone after fuller of shame then yeares The Hall for maskes and the Lodgings of Madame Gabrielle with her picture ouer the Chimney like a Diana hunting are fine Roomes yet the fair picture cannot hinder men from blameing her foule life nor from censureing that solaecisme of the painter who made chaste Diana looke like Madame Gabrielle There are also here two Chappels the old and the new The old one is a poore thing and seems to haue been built for hunters but the new one is both neat and stately and built vpon this occasion as a Bishop in France told me A spanish Embassador resideing in Paris in Henry the IV. his time went one day from Paris to Fontainbleau to see this French Escurial Arriueing he lighted after his countryes fashion at the Chappel doore the old Chappel and entring in to thank God for his saif arriual he wondered to see so poore and dark a chappel and asking with indignation whether this were the Casa di Dios The house of God he turned presently a way with scorne Saying No quiero Veer mas I care for seeing no more not staying to see that place where the king had so a fine a house and God so poore a Chappel This being told the last king Lewis the XIII he commanded forth with the new Chappel to be built in that sumptuous posture we now see it Going out of the house you finde a hansome Mail and Rare Ponds of water which euen baptize this place with the name of Fontainbelleau In these Ponds as also in the moat about the house are conserued excellent Carps some whereof were sayd to be a hundred years old which though we were not bound to beleeue yet their very white scales and dull moueing vp and downe might make men beleeue that there are gray scales as well as gray haires and decayed fishes as well as decrepit men especially when Columella speaks of a fish of his acquaintance in Caesars fish ponds neare Pausilipus which had liued threescore years and Gesnerus relates that in a fishpond neare Haylprum in Suabe a fish was catched anno 1497 with a brasse ring at his gills in which were engrauen these words I am the first fish which Federic the second Gouernour of the world put into this Pond the 5 of October 1203. By which it appears that this fish had liued two hundred and sixty odd yeares But to returne againe to our Carps of Fontainbelleau it s an ordinary

you all the way long with a sacred reuerence and are able almost to rend also a stony heart in two with the thought of our Sauiours passion Vpon the top of all this Promontory there is an ancient monument of Manutius Plancus an old Roman with a great deale of old Latin vpon it but my rideing boots put me out of all reading humour and I was very willing to let Plancus lye quietly in his monument aboue so I could but recouer againe our boate there sit still Of this towne was the famous Cardinal Caëtanus of S. Thomas Aquinas his name order and almost learning This towne was built by Aeneas in honour of his Nurse Caëta who dyed here Returning againe to Mola we went after dinner to see Ciceros Grotte and so away We had not ridden three houre● but we came to the Ferry of Carigliano neare to which J saw the fair rests of an old amphitheater standing alone in the fields with the rests also of an Aqueduct I wondered at first to see an Amphitheater standing alone and farre from any great towne but vpon enquiry I found that here had stood once a noble towne called Minturna but now so ruined that not one stone of it appeareth Indeed we are often at this fault in Italy and looke for townes in corne fields Luna Populonia Cuma Baiae and Minturna cheat thus our expectations and leaue vs no monument of themselues but a poore Fuit Jlium which though it be Trauelers losse yet its mans comfort that townes to dye as well as hee Hence Rutilius Non indignemur mortalia corpora solui Carnimus exemplis oppida posse mori Hauing passed ouer the riuer in a Ferry boat we entred vpon the medows in whose fennes called the Fens of Minturna Caius Marius lay hid a while and there with his sterne lookes and manly voyce saying Darest thou kill Caius Marius so terrifyed the slaue that was sent thither to kill him that he let him escape to his ship and so into Africk He may speak big that speaks for his life and any lookes become a man when he lookes to himself well in dangers While we rod along these medows we saw before vs the mountain of Garo anciently called Mons Massicus famous for excellent wines as well as the country there about which was called Ager Falernus so famed by Poets for its Vinum Falernum Passing thus along we came at night to S. Agathas and the next morneing betimes we enterd into Campania Foelix so surnamed because of its admirable ayre wonderfull plenty of corne and wine and pleasants prospects on all sides which makes an Ancient call it C●rtamen Cereris Bacchi the Strife of Ceres and Bacchus It was this country which with its delights broke Hannibals army which neither snow could coole nor Alpes stop nor Romans Vanquish sayth Seneca Indeed the pleasantness of this country made vs a full mends for all the ill way we had had before nature hauing set that scuruie way there a purpose that men might like her Fauorite Campania the better after it I call this country Natures Fauorite in imitation of Pliny who calls it Opus gaudentis naturae that is a country made by nature when she was in a good humour It s a Heathen that speaks and you must pardon him We intended that day to haue gone to Capua to dinner but when we came thither we did not finde it at home For this towne now called Capua is two miles distant from the place where old Capua stood Indeed the old Capua was a towne of importance for it was either the second or third in the world and stood in competition as Carthage did with Rome Nay it demanded of Rome to be vsed like a Sister not like a Subiect and stood high vpon it that one of the annuall Consuls should alwayes reside here But that Capua is vanished with its vanity and this Capua hath no reason to be so proud being famous for nothing but that action of many noble women here who to auoyd the insolencies of the French soldiers receiued into the towne friendly leapt into the riuer Vulturno to saue their Virginity honour from their lewdness an action rather wonderfull then warrantable There is a Castle here of pretty strength a good riuer and an Archbishops Seat From Capua we passed through Auersa a sweat Seat of a towne and once great till Charles the I King of Naples almost ruined it It s a Bishops Seat still Here it was that Queen Ioanne of Naples strangled her husband Andreasso and was her self not long after serued so too in the same place Traueling some eight miles further we came to Naples before we could see it This towne was anciently called Parthenop● from one of the Syrens It s now called Neapolis a new City because the inhabitants of Cumae hauing out of iealousy ruined Parthenope were sore vexed with a plague till they had built it vp againe better then before This happened about the yeare of the world 1449. As for Naples it s now the head of a great kingdome so called This kingdome belongd once to the Emperor but after that it had been ouerun by Sarazins and freed by Pope Iohn the Tenth vnited with Alberic● Marquis of Toscany it acknowledged the Church for its mistrésse and the first man that was inuested by the Pope Innocent the Second an 1130 was Roger the Second a Normand Since that time the French and the Spaniard haue strugled hugely for this kingdome sometimes the one plucking it to him then the other But now it s vnder the Spaniard who holds it of the Pope and for it payeth euery yeare the purse of gold and the Gennet spoken of aboue This kingdome is of great importance to Spayne It makes his party too strong for France in Italy It corresponds conueniently with Sicily and Milan and strengthens them both In fine it beareth vp notably the interest of spayne in the Court of Rome and it squeizeth it self now and then into huge summes four millions of crownes to send tribute into Spaynes coffers For this kingdome is a thousand fiue hundred miles in compasse four hundred and fifty wide It hath in it twenty Archbishops Seats a hundred and twenty fiue Bishops Seats a thousand fiue hundred Bourgs two millions of soules ten principalityes twenty three Dutchies thirty Marquisats fifty foure Countyes and about a Thousand Baronies whereof four hundred are ancient It can rayse a hundred and fifty thousand foot and a hundred thousand horse It s ordinary squadron of gallyes are but 20. As for the towne it self of Naples if it be the third of Italy for greatness it is the first for strength neatness and therefore deseruedly surnamed La Gentile the Gentile It hath Compania on one side of it and the Mediterranean Sea on the other so that its fed by Natures best duggs Sea

Florence Magdalena d' Austria as her armes vpon them told me On the Gospel side of the Altar there 's an old cupbord within the wall in which are yet kept some little earthen dishes which were brought hither with the house and therefore tradition holds them to have been our Sauiours plate and our Ladyes Vessels now this cupbord is adorned with a dore of syluer giuen if I remember well by a Duke of Parma In the end of the Holy House there is a window where it is imagined the Angel entered when he came Embassador to the Virgin Mary concerning the great business of the Incarnation of his Lord and Master This window is now cheeked and enriched with syluer Round about aboue hang syluer Lampes and on the sides of the walls there remains yet some very old painting wherewith this Chamber was painted when it was first consecrated in to a Chappel in the primitive times In the very bottom of this Chamber they shewed me by a lighted candle how that it hath no foundation in the ground but stands here iust as if it had been let downe from the ayre and set vpon the plain ground Close behinde the Altar runns quite crosse the Chappel a great iron grate through which you see the Statue of Cedar of our blessed Lady with her son in her armes It s sayd to haue been made by S. Luke and was brought hither together with the Chappel or Holy House It stands vp high in the Very farther end of the Chappel It s about four foot high and adorned with a particular kind of Vayle hung before it looking something like a womans garment They call these Vayles here Vesti and there are of diuers colours and stuffs but all rich and glittering witness that which I saw in the Treasory which was giuen by the Infanta Isabella of Flanders which is valued at forty thousand crownes It s set thick with six rowes of diamands downe before to the number of three thousand and it s all wrought ouer with a kinde of embrodery of little pearle set thick euery where within the flowers with great round pearle to the number of twenty thousand pearles in all Vpon the Heads of our Sauiour and our Lady in that Statue are set two rich crownes close royal crownes of diamands giuen by the Queen of France Anne d' Austriche Before the brest of this Statue hangs a Royal Tosone or Fleece of rich Iewels giuen by a Prince of Transylvania a Collar of Rubies pearls and diamonds and a rich crosse hanging at it all giuen by Cardinal Sfondrati Round about the Niche in which this Statue stands there goes a close row of pretious stones of seueral sorts and Lustures but all great both in bulk in Value and in number being seauenty one in all and all together composeing a rich Iris of seueral colours Between this Statue of our Lady and the Iron Grate hang a row of Lampes about twelue in all of pure gold and all as big as a mans head one were of exceeds the rest in curious workemanship and it was the guift of Sigismond King of Polonia All the rest of the Chappel where those Lampes hang is loaden with the rich Vowes and Presents of great Princes These I yet remember to wit The image in syluer of the eldest Sonne of Ferdinand the III Emperor with a chain of diamands about it An Angel of sylver holding out and as it were presenting to our Lady a child of gold in swathing bands vpon a syluer cusben It was the guift of the foresayd Queen of France being brought to bed of the Dolphin now Lewis the XIIII The picture of this Prince of Condé in syluer kneeling a vowe of his mother when he went first to warre The Busto of S. Barbara in sylver set with iewels the guift of an Archduke of Austria An other Busto of S. Girione set with Iewels also a guift of a Queen of Bohemia The Statue of S. Ladislaus in syluer the guift of Ladislaus the IV. King of Polonia A fine kneeling stoole or pew of syluer giuen by Cardinal Colonna with a world of other syluer presents wherewith this place is filled In fine I saw there the very chimney which was anciently in this chamber it s vnder the statue of our Lady and now adorned with syluer Haueing seen the Holy House or Chappel we were led the next morneing into the Treasory where many other rich presents are kept This Treasory is a larg roome 40 paces long about 15 wide like a long Chappel vaulted and painted ouer head On the left hand of this roome stand great cupbords which opening aboue haue little nets of strong wyar before them which let in eyes to behold but keep of hands from touching the inestimable Treasor contained within them Some of these presents were giuen by Popes some by Kings Queens Princes Cardinals Generals Ladyes and noblemen of seueral Nations In one cupbord they shewd vs a whole seruice for the Altar that is Crucifix Candlestiks Cruets Basin Bure and the foot of the Chalice all of Amber In an other such a whole seruice of Agate An other such a seruice all of lapis Lazuli giuen by Count Oliuares An other all of coral giuen by the Archduke Leopold In an other such a seruice in Crystal In an other such a seruice of syluer with flower potts neatly wrought giuen by Don Thadeo Barberino Prefect of Rome In an other a stately Crucifix of Ebeny adorned with many curious pictures in miniature giuen by Pope Clement the VII●I In an other the Spred Eagle of diamands the guift of mary Queen of Hungary Two crownes of gold enriched with pearle the guift of a Queen of Polognia A crown of gold set with great Rubies of extraordinary size the guift of a Dutchesse of Neuers In an other the Crowne and Scepter of gold enamelled giuen by Christina Queen of Swede at her first comeing into Italy In an other the enamelled Pigeon with a rich iewel in its breast the guift of the Prince Ludouisio The heart enriched with Diamands with a great Emeraud in the middle of it of an excessiue bigness the guift of Henry III. of France at his returne out of Polognia In an other the rich enamelled three cornerd iewel with the picture of the Blessed Virgin in the middle of it the present of two Bohemian Counts and a Gentleman who being throwne out of a high window in Prague by the Calumnists and recommending themselues to Gods protection and our Ladyes intercession fell downe all three gently without the least hurt Their names were Count Martinitz Count Slauata and a Gentleman that was Secretary to Count Slauata who being throwne out the last and falling vpon the Count his master cryed him mercey for his rudeness in falling vpon him a great argument that they were little hurt when they could compliment with one an other There are now three pillars before that house in Prague out of which these three

here that our Sauiour eat the Paschal Lambe with his disciples Both these where giuen to the Genuesi by Balduin King of Hierusalem for their great seruice done against the Turks in the Holy Land Of the Relick of S. Iohn Baptist Baronius speaks credibly in his Ecclesiasticall History but for the dish of Emmeraud I find no authority for it either in Baronius or any ancient author that our Sauiour vsed it Especially seing Venerable Beda writes that the Dish in which our Sauiour eat the Paschal Lambe was of syluer 2 After the Domo I saw the Church of the Annunciata which draweth vp the Ladder after it for neatness It s still in building and not quite finished It s thus beautifyed at the cost of two Brothers Rich Gentlemen and merchands of this towne who allow the third part of their gaynes to the adorning of this Church The roof of it is all guilt and set with curious pictures in Platfound The Altars round about the Church are cheeked with exquisit pillars and adorned with rare pictures The two rowes of Vast Pillars which hold vp the roof of the Church are so beautifull being of a red and white marble that they looke like Iasper and rauish the beholder They are curiously wrought and chanelled 3. The Churh of S. Ambrosio belonging to the Jesuits is neatly ouercrusted with marble and guilt aboue in the roof It wants a little lenght for want of roome to build on it being too neare the Doges pallace and not daring to aduance a step further for feare of treading vpon his heels 4. The Church of the Theatins called S. Cyro is very hansome with its double row of white marble pillars which set it out very gracefully The Cloister also is very neat and the Fathers very ciuil 5. The Pallaces here are most sumptuous Those of the Strada Noua are the best and the best of those is that of the Prince d'Oria it s built vpon white round marble pillars which support its Galleries and those galleries let you into noble roomes adorned with all the Abellimenti of Italian Pallaces The other Pallaces too in this street deserue particular mention in this my description of Genua and may take it ill I say nothing of them but they must excuse my breuity and impute the fault partly to themselues seeing admirable things are lyable to this inconuenience that they are also vnexpressable 6. I saw also the two Pallaces of the Signori Balbi in the Street of the Annunciata In the one whereof on the left hand I saw among other rich things a Looking Glasse valued at threescore thousād crowns It s much of the size of those Looking glasses which Seneca calls specula toti corpori paria that is as bigge and brickle as those that looke themselues in them The frame of it is all of syluer set thick with a thousand little armed figures like Cupids as if the plain Mirrour of this Looking Glasse were the plain field where Cupid pitcheth his Tents and begins his conquests ouer fair Ladyes The round pillars set in the porch of this house and the Giuochi d'acqua in the garden will make themselues be taken notice of 7. The Pallace of the Doge or biennial Prince here with the Seueral Chambers of Iustice and the Armory in it for thirty thousand men aught to be carefully seen In one of the great Halls of this Pallace are seen twelue Statues of white marble representing twelue famous men of this towne who had rendered great seruice to the Common-wealth In the foresayd Armory you see a halbard with two pistol barrels in the lower end of it You see also the Armour of the Genuesian Amazones who went to the warre in the Holy Land and carryed themselues gallantly Here 's also a cannon of Leather so light that a man may carry it 8. But that which is the most taking in Genua is that which is out of Genua I meane the stately Suburbs of San Pietro in Arena where for a mile together Villas adorned with marbles painting statues Gardens Arbours of Gelsomin Orange and Limon trees grotts ponds Giuochi d'acqua fountains high wales with shades borne vp by Marble Pillars c. compose of many pallaces and gardens such a beautifull Landskip that the whole place seemed to mee to be the charming Paradise of the King of the Mountains anciently and I was almost going to say that we durst not blesse our selues least this enchanted place should haue Vanished The best Villas or Pallaces here are those of Hieronymo Negro and that of the Imperiali the first beautifyed with all the graces of Italian furniture as also with Gardens Walks Ponds Water works Allees c the other besides all these hath an excellent Prospect for the master of this house can see out of one window of it twelue thousand crownes a yeare of his owne onely in let houses The other Pallaces here expect I should say something of them and they deserue it well but realy to giue them their full due I can onely say this of them that they aught to be seen by the eye not described by the pen. 9. As you returne from San Pietro in Arena to the towne not farre from the Gates stands the Villa or Pallace of the Duke d'Oria I reserued this for the last pour faire bonne bouche It stands vpon the Seaside and its garden towards the Sea is built vpon three rowes of white marble Rayls borne vp by white marble pillars which ascending by degrees is so beautifull to behold from the Sea that strangers passing that way to Genua take this garden for a second Paradise In the midst of it stands the rare Fountain of Neptune representing the true lookes of Braue Andrea D'Oria the Neptune of the Ligurian Sea and the man who put his country out of Liuery and taught it not to serue All along one side of this Garden stands a Cage of Iron about a hundred paces long and so high that it fetcheth in a world of laurel other trees clad with chirping birds of seueral sorts and to make the poore birds beleeue that they are rather in a wood then in a prison the very Cage hath put euen the wood it self in prison Then entring into the Pallace we found it most curiously adorned with rarityes and riches sutable to the countrys humour and the masters purse It s true when this Queen of Spayne passed from Germany into Spayne by the way of Milan and Genua the Gouernour of Milan told her that she should see in d'Orias pallace here many fine things but all borrowed of the townsmen Which d'Oria hearing of before hand caused to be written ouer the great Gates of the Pallace where the Queen was to enter and lodge these words in Spanish By the grace of God and the Kings fauour ther 's nothing here borrowed It may be the cunning Gouernour of Milan thought by

telling the Queen this to oblige the Duke D'Oria to present some of his best things to the Queen to shew her that they were his owne as it s sayd the late Duke of Buckingham did in France by breaking his dyamond hatband among the Court Ladyes who sayd he had onely borrowed it but the wise Italian by this trick both kept his owne and yet satisfyed the Queen Indeed he hath things here both too good to be giuen away and too great to be carryed away witness those rare Syluer tables which are in his Warderobe one whereof weigheth twenty-four thousand pound weight From the Pallace we were led ouer the street to his great garden vpon the hillside where all the graces that can make vp a garden are found As for the Gouerment fashions Wealth strength and Interest of Genua I found them to be thus Their Gouerment is Democratical or Popular by a Dog● chosen euery two years and eight Senators who liue with him in the Pallace and assist him with their counsell The great Counsell here which is the foundation of the Gouerment consists of four hundred men chosen indifferently out of all the families of the towne These deliberate with the Signoria of all things that belong to warre or peace Anciently as I hinted before Genua was vnder the French domination till Andrea D'Oria set it free Histories write of it that Berengarius the third and the Sarazins so ruined Genua that they left it swiming in its owne blood Which ruine was forewarned by a prodigie of a fountain of blood which rann in the very streets of Genua It had like to haue swmme a second time in its blood when Lewis the XII of France entering into Genua victoriously with sword in hand threatning the vtter ruine of that people was pacifyed by the mournfull cryes of four thousand little Children who clad in sackcloth and placed in the great Piazza cryed out to the King in a piercing accent Misericordia e Pieta Mercy and Pitty But since Genua shooke off the French Yoke it hath liued perpetually Gealous of the Frēch especially since it discouered some years past diuers attempts of France against it whiles the French had Portolongone and Piombino For this reason the Genuesi leane much to the Spanish Faction and Fashions following Faction they leane also much to the Spanish Fashion both in humour and apparel Hence I found here broad hats without hat-bands broad leather girdles with steel buckles narrow britches with long wasted doublets and hanging sleeues to be à la mode as well as in Madrid And I found all the great Ladyes here to go like the Donnas of Spayne in Guardinfantas that is in horrible ouergrowne Vertigals of whale-bone which being put about the waste of the Lady and full as broad on both sides as she can reach with her hands beare out her coats in such a huffing manner that she appears to be as broad as long So that the men here with their little close britches looked like tumblers that leap through the houps and the women like those that danced anciently the Hobby-horse in country Mummings Two of these Ladyes meeting one another in these narrow streets make as great an Embarras as two carts of hay do vpon London bridge and I haue seen their Ladiships strangely puzzled how to iuggle themselues into a narrow Sedan or Littar indeed half of my Lady hangs out For my part I admire that this iealous Republick doth not feare least some of these Ladyes vpon a disgust should carry a set of little short gunns vnder her coats and vnder pretence of preferring a petition to the Senate assembled giue them a broad side or two and make a horrible confusion in the Republick If all this bulk of clothes which make the women here looke like haycocks with armes and heads be allowed them by their wise husbands to render them more visible and lesse able to go priuately into any suspected houses its good policy otherwise most certain it is that the wifes gownes cheat horribly the Husbands britches of almost all the stuff I haue onely heard and it was from a Nobleman of Genua of one Lady here that made right vse of these Guardinfantas and it was shee who seeing her onely sonn a yong nobleman of Genua about eighteen years old already condemned to prison and ready to be condemned to the scaffold for a heynous crime got leaue to visit him in prison as often as she pleased and at last by meanes of a good Guardinfanta of steele instead of whale-bone she tooke vp her sonn vnder her coats in that Guardinfanta and marching out of the prison grauely as she vsed to do by leaning vpon two ancient women as the Fashion is here for great Ladyes to do she carryed him home so and being there deliuered of him a second time without a midwife she sent him presently out of the country to be nursed and kept Thus she saued her families honour Was not this a true Guardinfanta which preserued thus the life of a child But was not this also a gallant mother that went with a child who was full eighteen years old when his mother bore him The onely pitty was that this gallant mother had not the happiness once to be mother of a gallant sonn seeing she had had the trouble of bringing forth such a sonn twice As for their Riches I am told they passe not a million and two hundred thousand crownes a yeare Indeed the King of Spayne Philip the II aboue a hundred years ago borrowed of this Republick the summ of eleuen millions and keeps them still in his hands to keep this Republick in awe yet paying the interest duly vnto them So that the Common purse here is nothing so rich as that of Venice though the particular men here are farre richer then those of Venice They haue great trading both with France and Spayne and are great Banquiers makeing the Chāge in all the bancks of Europe go as they please Besides they vtter a world of Taffetas Veluets Sattins Points of needle worke and diuers other things of Value As for their Strength it s enough to defend themselues scarce enough to offend others For Genua is backd vp by the Apennins where all passages are easily made good against inuaders and it is so well fortifyed on the other side by the Sea it self twelue or fourteen good Gallyes twenty ships of warre and its incomparable Molo that they could scuffle notably in their owne defence Besides Genua is fortifyed not onely with its Hills and Sea but also with its new walls and bull-works of stone nay and with its Bonewalls too that is with a Lacedemonian wall of a world of inhabitants and with the Illustrious Families of d'Oria Spinola Grimaldi Sauli Durazzi Catanei and others whose seueral names would go almost for seueral armyes Yet for a need they can rayse thirty thousand men and arme them well out of their