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A49620 The voyage of Italy, or, A compleat journey through Italy in two parts : with the characters of the people, and the description of the chief towns, churches, monasteries, tombs, libraries, pallaces, villas, gardens, pictures, statues, and antiquities : as also of the interest, government, riches, force, &c. of all the princes : with instructions concerning travel / by Richard Lassels, Gent. who travelled through Italy five times as tutor to several of the English nobility and gentry ; never before extant. Lassels, Richard, 1603?-1668.; S. W. (Simon Wilson) 1670 (1670) Wing L465; ESTC R2418 265,097 737

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haue been twenty three in all haue hartened and aduanced this work that the prime Architects of the world Sangalla Bramante Baldassere Buonarota Giacomo della Porta Giouani Fontana Carlo Maderno and now Caualiero Bernino haue brought it on to this perfection that the whole Church it self is nothing but the Quintessence of wit and wealth strained into a religious designe of making a hansome house to God and of fulfilling the diuine oracle which promised that magna erit gloria domus istius nouissimae plusquam primae Going at last out of this Church and summing vp in my thoughts all the rarityes I had seen in it I began to think of Ammonius a holy primitiue Saint and afterwards Bishop in the Council of Sardis of whom it s written that comeing to Rome with S. Athanasius he desired to see nothing there but S. Peters Church and knew not the way to any place els I think that if this good man had seen S. Peters Church as it is now he would neuer haue cared for seing any thing els in the world and would euen haue forgot his way home too Neare to the Church of S. Peter stands the Vatican Pallace where the Popes use to winter To describe it to you all at length would take me vp too much time nor indeed is it fit for me to dwell there I will therefore passe through it quickly and rather point you out what 's to be seen there then paint you out in words what I saw there 1. From the Church of S. Peter you ascend into this Pallace by an easy stately pair of stairs capable of ten men a brest These stairs render you vp at the great Hall called Sala Regia because the Pope receiueth here Embassadors of Kings in their Embassies of state It is beautifyed with rare pictures in a great volume as that of the Emperour Frederick kissing the Popes foot of the hand of Gioseppe del Saluiati Garfagnino That of the Ligue in France that of Coligni that of the Pope condemning heresy That of the Pope returning from Auignon are all of the hand of Georgio Vassari That of the Emperour Charles the Great signing the Brief of the donation is of the hand of Thadeo Zuccari that of the battle of Lepanto with the picture of Fayth at the side of it is of the hand of Donato Formello 2. This great Hall stands between two Chappels the Paulina and the Sista In the Paulina is seen a rare picture of the crucifying of S. Peter by Michel Angelo The roof of it also was rarely painted by Federico Zuccari but the smoke of the candles vpon Manday Thursday when this Chappel serues for the Sepulcher hath so defaced these pictures that a farre worse hand would haue serued there 3. The Chappel of Sisto is that in which the Pope holds Capella vpon certain dayes and were all the Cardinals interuene In the end of this Chappel vpon the wall is painted the last Iudgement by Michel Angelo a peece famous ouer all the world The green garments of S. Katharine and the ●ead of S. Biagio are of the painting of Daniel of Volterra who was presently set a worke to make those garments when the Pope had giuen expresse order that this rare picture should be defaced because of some nakedneess in it Vpon great dayes this Chappel is hung with a rare sute of hangings of the designe of Raphael Vrbin wrought with gold and silk containing the Acts of S. Peter and S. Paul 4. Beinde this Chappel stands the Popes Sacristy a place scarce knowne to strangers and therefore seldome seen by them though very well wroth the seeing It s kept alwayes by a Prelat who is alwayes an Augustin Fryar and a Bishop and called Monsignor Sacrista In authors of high times we finde mention of this officer vnder the name of Cimiliarcha or chief Sacristan Here I saw rare Church ornaments for the Popes vse These in particular I cannot let passe without mentioning The cope of saint Syluester Pope thirteen hundred yeares a goe The neat Chasuble of cloth of tyssue with the pictures of the ministring the seauen Sacrements all embrodered in it in silk and gold so rarely that the late Lord Mareshal of England Tho. Earle of Arundel got leaue to haue it painted out and so much the more willingly because it had been giuen to the Pope by King Henry the VIII a little before his Schisme Then the incomparable sutes of ornaments for Priest Deacon and Subdeacon to be vsed in high Masse which were giuen by King Sebastian of Portugal and set all ouer with pearle and these pearles were the first that came out of the Indyes and were in all eight hundred pound weight of pearle The other rare things here were the Head of S. Laurence which I saw neare at hand through a crystal a peece of the spunge in which the Jewes gaue our Sauiour gall to drink the Camisia of S. Prisca a primitiue Saint martyred in it 1400 yeares ago the Crucifix in which is set vnder a crystal a peece of the Holy Crosse carued with the passion of our Sauiour in it a thorne of our Sauiours crowne of thornes which belongd to Pius Quintus a crosse set with Diamans and Pearles which the Pope wears at his brest in great functions a great ring which he also weareth in such functions it s set with a fair Saphir and four great pearles a fair Crucifix enameld and beset with store of pearle and Iewels the Popes Pallium which he wears in great functions the fistula or pipe of gold wherwith the Pope receiues the consecrated blood of our Sauiour in the Chalice vpon great dayes the rare Chalices of gold set with pearle and yet more pretious for their workmanship then for their matter the great Chalice of gold into which the Cardinals put their written Votes in chuseing the Pope by scrutiny the fiue triple crownes called Regni four wereof are set thick with pretious stones and pearle of great value and therfore ordinarily kept in the Castle Angelo two miters of the same richness the chrystal Pixe in which the Blessed Sacrament is kept in the Sepulcher vpon Manday Thursday in fine the booke of the Ghospels painted in miniature by the famous Giulio Glorio for whose first picture here of the last Iudgement Paulus Tertius sent him fifteen hundred pistols as Monsignor Sacrista assured me 5. Passing from hence through the Sala Regia againe I was led into the great roome hard by where the Pope washeth the feet of thirteen Pilgrims vpon Manday Thursday and then giueth euery one of then a great Meddal of Gold with four pistols and an other of syluer 6. Thence I was led into the open gallerie which looketh vpon the court I meane the second lodge for there are three such open galleries where the histories of the Bible are painted most curiously in the roof of it by prime masters That of Adam and the
is a midling humour between too much grauity of the spaniard and too great leuity of the French Their grauity is notwithout some fire nor their leuity without some fleame They are apish enough in Carneual time and vpon their stages as long as the visard is on but that once off they are too wise to play the fooles in their owne names and owne it with their owne faces They haue strong fancies and yet solid iudgements A happy temper which makes them great Preachers Politicians and Ingeniers but withall they are a little too melancholy and gealous They are great louers of their brethren and neare kinred as the first freinds they are acquinted withall by nature and if any of them lye in passe and fair for aduancement all the rest of his relations will lend him their purses as well as their shoulders to help him vp though he be but their younger brother They are sparing in dyet both for to liue in health and to liue hansomly making their bellyes contribute to the maintenance of their backs and their kitchen help to the keeping of their stable They are ambitious still of honours remembering they are the successors of the masters of the world the old Romans and to put the world still in mind of it they take to themselues the glorious names of Camillo Scipione Julio Mario Pompeo c. They are as sensible allso of their honour as desirous of honours and this makes them strickt to their wife 's euen to gelousy knowing that for one Cornelius Tacitus there haue been ten Publij Cornelij and that Lucius Cornificius is the most affronting man They are hard to be pleased when thy haue been once read hoat with offence but they will not meet reuenge in the face and feild and they will rather hire it then take it In fine they affect very much compounded names as Pi●colomini Capilupo Bentiuoglio Malespina Boncompagno Maluezzi Riccobono Malatesta Homodei and such like marryed Names As for their Manners they are most commendable They haue taught them in their bookes they practise them in their actions and they haue spred them abroad ouer all Europe which owes its Ciuility vnto the Jtalians as well as its Religion They neuer affront strangers in what habit soeuer they appeare and if the strangenesse of the habit draw the Jtalians eye to it yet he will neuer draw in his mouth to laugh at it As for their apparel or dresse it s commonly black and modest They value no brauery but that of Coache and horses and Staffiers and they sacrifize a world of little satisfactions to that main one of being able to keep a Coache Their Points de Venice ribans and goldlace are all turned into horses and liueries and that money which we spend in treats and Tauernes they spend in coache and furniture They neuer whisper priuately with one another in company not speak to one another alowd in an vnknowne tongue when thy are in conuersation with others thinking this to be no other then a lowd whispering They are precise in point of Ceremony and reception and are not puzzeled at all when they heare a great man is comeing to visit them There 's not a man of them but he knowes how to entertain men of all conditions that is how farre to meet how to place them how to stile and treat them how to reconduct them and how farr They are good for Nunciatures Embassies and State employments being men of good behauiour lookes temper and discretion and neuer outrunning their businesse They are great louers of Musick Meddales Statues and Pictures as things which either diuert their melancholy or humor it and I haue read of one Jacomo Raynero a shoomaker of Bolognia who gathered together so many curious Meddals of Gold siluer and brasse as would haue becomne the Cabinet of any Prince In fine they are extreamely ciuil to one another not onely out of an awe they stand in one towards another not knowing whose turne it may be next to come to the highest honours but allso out of a natural grauity and ciuil education which makes euen schoolboyes an insolent Nation any where else most respectfull to one another in words and deeds treating one another with Vostra Signoria and abstaining from all gioco di mano Nay masters themselues here neuer beat their seruant but remitt them to justice if the fault require it and I cannot remember to haue heard in Rome two women scold publickly or man and wife quarrel in words except once and then they did it so priuatly and secretly and scolded in such a low tone that I perceiued the Italians had reason about them euen in the middst of their choler As for their particular customes they are many They marry by their eares oftener then by their eyes and scarce speake with one another till they meete before the Parish Priest to speake the indissoluable words of wedlock They make children go barehead till they be four or fiue years old hardening them thus against rhumes and catarres when they shall be old Hence few people in Italy go so warme on their heads as they do in France men in their houses wearing nothing vpon their heads but a little calotte and women for the most part going all barehead in the midst of winter it self Women here also wash their heads weekly in a wash made for the nonce and dry them againe in the Sun to make their hair yellow a colour much in vogue here among Ladyes The men throw of their hats cuffs and bandes as well as their cloaks at their returne home from visits or businesse and put on a gray coate without which they cannot dine or supp and I haue been inuited to dinner by an Italian who before dinner made his men take of our hats and cloaks and present euery one of vs and we were fiue in all with a coloured coate and a little cap to dine in At dinner they serue in the best meats first and eat backwards that is they beginn with the second course and end with boyld meat and pottage They neuer present you with salt or braines of any fowle least they may seeme to reproach vnto you want of wit They bring you drink vpon a Sottocoppa of syluer with three or four glasses vpon it Two or three of which are strait neckt glasses called there caraffas full of seueral sorts of wines or water and one empty drinking glasse into which you may powre what quantity of wine and water you please to drink and not stand to the discretion of the waiters as they do in other countrys At great feasts no man cuts for himself but seueral caruers cut-vp all the meat at a side table and giue it to the waiters to be carryed to the ghests and euery one hath the very same part of meat carryed vnto him to wit a wing and a legg of wild fowle c. least any one take exceptions that others were