West hath not obstinately ceased from time to time to flash and mangle it and with his fell irruptions and boysterous Tides to deâ—oure it Another thing there is not vnworthy to be recommended to memory that in this Shire not far from Fournesse Fellâ—s the greatest standing water in all England called Winander-Mere lieth stretched out for the space of ten miles of wonderfull depth and all paued with stone in the bottome and along the Sea-side in many places may be seene heapes of sand vpon which the people powre water vntill it recouer a 〈◊〉 humour which they afterwards boile with Turffes till it become white salt 8 This Country as it is thus on the one side freed by the naturall resistance of the Sea from the force of Inuasions so is it strengthned on the other by many Castles and fortified places that take away the opportunitie of making Roades and Incursions in the Country And as it was with the first that felt the fury of the Saxons crueltie so was it the last and longest that was subdued vnder the West-Saxons Monarchie 9 In this Prouince our noble Arthur who died laden with many trophics of honour is reported by Ninius to haue put the Saxons to flight in a memorable battle neere Duglasse a little Brooke not farre from the Towne of Wiggin But the attempts of warre as they are seuerall so they are vncertaine for they made not Duke Wade happy in his successe but returned him an vnfortunate vnterpriser in the Battle which he gaue to Arduiph King of Northumberland at Billangho in the yeare 798 So were the euents vncertaine in the Ciuill Warres of Yorke and Lancaster for by them was bred and brought forth that bloudy diuision and fatall strife of the Noble Houses that with variable successe to both parties for many yeares together molested the peace and quiet of the Land and defiled the earth with bloud in such violent manner that it exceeded the horrour of those Ciuill Warres in Rome that were betwixt Mariuâ— and Scylla Pompey and Caesar Octauius and Antony or that of the two renowned Houses Valoys and Eurbon that a long time troubled the State of France for in the diuision of these two Princely Families there were thirteene Fields sought and three Kings of England one Prince of Wales twelue Dukes one Marques eighteene Earles one Vicount and three and twentie Barons besides Knights and Gentlemen lost their liues in the same Yet at last by the happy marriage of Henry the seauenth King of England next heire to the House of Lancaster with Elizabeth daughter and heire to Edward the Fourth of the House of Yorke the white and red Roses were conioyned in the happy vniting of those two diuided Families from whence our thrice renowned Soueraigne Lord King Iames by faire sequence and succession doth worthily enioy the Diâ—deme by the benefit of whose happy gouernment this Countie Palatine of Lancaster is prosperous in her Name and Greatnesse YORKE-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXVIII AS the courses and confluents of great Riuers are for the most part fresh in memory though their heads and fountaines lie commonly vnknowne so the latter knowledge of great Regions are not traduced to obliuion though perhaps their first originals be obscure by reason of Antiquitie and the many reuolutions of times and ages In the delineation therefore of this great Prouince of Yorkshire I will not insist vpon the narration of matters neere vnto vs but succinctly run ouer such as are more remote yet neither so sparingly as I may seeme to diminish from the dignitie of so worthy a Country nor so prodigally as to spend time in the superfluous praising of that which neuer any as yet dispraised And although perhaps it may seeme a labour vnnecessary to make relation of ancient remembrances either of the Name or Nature of this Nation especially looking into the difference of Time it selfe which in euery age bringeth forth diuerse effects and the dispositions of men that for the most part take lesse pleasure in them then in divulging the occurrents of their owne times yet I hold it not vnfit to begin there from whence the first certaine direction is giuen to proceede for euen of these ancient things there may be good vse made eitherby imitation or way of comparison as neither the repetition nor the repetition thereof shall be accounted impertinent 2 You shall therefore vnderstand That the Countie of Yorke was in the Saxon tongue called Ebona-yeyne and now commonly Yorkeshire farre greater and more numerous in the Circuit of her miles then any Shire of England Shee is much bound to the singular loue and motherly caâ—â— of Nature in placing her vnder so temperate a clime that in euery measure she is 〈…〉 If one part of her be stony and a sandy barren ground another is fertile and richly adorned with Corne-fields If you here finde it naked and destitute of Woods you shall see it there shadowed with Forrests full of trees that haue very thicke 〈◊〉 sending forth many fruitfull and profitable branches If one place of it be Moorish Mirie and vnpleasant another makes a free tender of delight and presents it selfe to the eye full of beautie and contentiue varietie 3 The Bishopricke of Durham fronts her on the North-side and is seperated by a continued course of the Riuer Tees The Germaine Sea lieth sore vpon her Bast side beating the shores with her boisterous waues and billowes The West part is bounded with Lancashire and Westmerland The South-side hath Cheshire and Darbishire friendly Neighbours vnto her with the which she is first inclosed then with Nottingham and with Lincolne-shires after diuided with that famous Arme of the Sea Humber Into which all the Riuers that water this Country emptie themselues and pay their ordinary Tributes as into the common receptacle and store-house of Neptune for all the watery Pensions of this Prouince 4 This whole Shire being of it selfe so spatious for the more easie and better ordering of her ciuill gouernment is diuided into three parts which according to three quarters of the world are called The West-Riding The East-Riding and The North-Riding West-Riding is for a good space compassed with the Riuer Ouse with the bounds of Lancashire and with the South limits of the Shire and beareth towards the West and South East-Riding bends it selfe to the Ocean with the which and with the Riuer Derment she is inclosed and lookes into that part where the Sunne rising and shewing forth his beames makes the world both glad and glorious in his brightnesse North-Riding extends it selfe Northward 〈◊〉 in as it were with the Riuer Tees and Derwent and a long race of the Riuer Ouse The length of this Shire extended from Haâ—thill in the South to the mouth of Tees in the North are neere vnto seauentie miles the breadth from Flambrough-head to Horn-castle vpon the Riuer 〈◊〉 is fourescore miles the whole Circumference is three hundred and eight miles 5 The Soile of this County for the
Market-place doth compare with the best Many strange Vaults hewed out of the Rockes in this Towne are seene and those vnder the Castle of an especiall note one for the story of Christs Passion engrauen in the Walls and cut by the hand of Dauid the second King of Scots whilst he was therein detained prisoner Another wherein Lord Mortimer was surprised in the non-age of King Edward the Third euer since beating the name of Mortimers Hole these haue their staires and seuerall roomes made artifically euen out of the Rockes as also in that hill are dwelling houses with winding staires windowes chimneys and roome aboue roome wrought all out of the solide Rocke The Castle is strong and was kept by the Danes against Burthred Ethelred and Elfred the Mercian and West-Saxon Kings who together laid their siege against it and for the further strength of the Towne King Edward surnamed the Elder walled it about whereof some part as yet remaines from the Castle to the West-gate and thence the foundation may be perceiued to the North where in the midst of the way ranging with this banke stands a gate of Stone and the same tract passing along the North part may well be perceiued the rest to the Riuer and thence to the Castle are built vpon and thereby buried from sight whose circuit as I tooke it extendeth two thousand one hundred and twentie pases 7 In the Warres betwixt Stephen and Maud the Empresse by Robert Earle of Glocester these Wells were east downe when also the Towne it selfe suffered the calamitie of fire but recouered to her former estate hath since increased in beautie and wealth and at this day is gouerned by a Maior and sixe Aldermen clad in Scarlet two Sheriffes two Chamberlaines a Towne-clerke and sixe Sergeants with Maces their Attenders whose position hath the Pole eleuated fiftie three degrees 25. minutes in Latitude and hath the Meridian nine degrees and 25. minutes This Towne hath beene honoured by these Princes titles and these Princes dignified with the Earledome of Nottingham whose seuerall Armes and Names are in the great Map expressed Religious houses that haue beene erected and now suppressed in the compasse of this Countie chiefly were Newsted Lenton Shelford Southwell Thurgarton Blith Welbeck and Radford in Nottingham the White and Gray Fryers besides a little Chappell dedicated to Saint Iohn All which shew the deuotions of those former times which their remembrance may moue if not condemne vs that haue more knowledge but farre lesse pietie DARBY-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXIII DARBY-SHIRE lyeth inclosed vpon her North parts with Yorke-shire vpon the East with Nottingham-shire vpon the South with Leicester-shire and vpon the West is parted with the Riuers Doue and Goyt from Stafford and Chesse-shires 2 It is in forme somewhat triangle though not of any equall distance growing from her narrow South-point still wider and in the North is at the broadest for from Stretton neere the head of Mese to New-Chapell seated neere the head of Derwent the two extreames from North to South are thirtie eight miles but from the Shire-Oakes vnto the meeting of Mersey and Goyt the broadest part of all this Shire is not fully twentie nine the whole in circumference extendeth to an hundred and thirtie miles 3 The ayre is good and very healthfull the sile is rich especially in her South and East parts but in the North and West is hilly with a blacke and mossie ground both of them fast handed to the Ploughers paines though very liberall in her other gifts whose natures thus dissenting the Riuer Derwent doth diuide asunder that taketh course thorow the heart or midst of this Countie The ancient people that possessed these parts in the times of the Romans assaults were the Coritani whom Ptolemie disperseth thorow Northampton-shire Leicester Rutland Lincolne Nottingham and this Shire who were all of them subdued by P. Ostorius Scapula Lieutenant in this Prouince for Claudius the Emperour But Romes Empire failing in Britaine by the intestine Warres among themselues the Saxons a more sauage and fearefull Nation soone brought it vnder their subiection and made this a Prouince vnto their Mercians Kingdome whom the West-Saxons first wanne and againe lost to the Normans 5 It is stored with many Commodities and them of much worth for besides Woods and Cattle Sheepe and Corne euery where ouer-spreading the face of this Countie the Mill-stone Crystall and Allablasâ—er the Mines of Pit-coale Iron and Lead are of great price whereof the last is mentioned in Flinie who writeth that in Britaine in the very crust of the ground without any deepe digging is gotten so great store of Lead that there is a Law expresly made of purpose forbidding men to make more then to a certaine stint Whose stones are plenteously gotten in those Mountaines and melted into Sowes to no small profit of the Countrey There is found also in certaine veines of the earth Subium which the Apothecarits call Antimonium and the Alâ—thmists hold in great esteeme 6 Places for commerce or memorable note the first is Darby the Shire-Towne called by the Danes Deâ—aby seated vpon the West banke of Derwent where also a small Brooke rising Westward runneth thorow the Towne vnder nine Bridges before it meets with her farre greater Riuer Derwent which presently it doth after she hath passed Tenant Bridge in the South-East of the Towne But a Bridge of more beautie built all of Free-stone is passed ouer Derwent in the North-East of the Towne whereon standeth a faire stone Chapell and both of them bearing the names of S. Maries fiue other Churches are in this Towne the chiefest whereof is called Aâ—hallowes whose Steeple or Bell-Tower being both beautifull and high was built onely at the charges of young men and maids as is witnessed by the inscription cut in the same vpon euery square of the Steeple Among the miserable desolations of the Danes this Towne bare a part but by Lady Ethelfleda was againe repaired and is at this day inâ—orporated with the yearely gournment of two Bailiffes elect out of twentie-foure brethren besides as many Burgesses of Common Counsell a Recorder Towne-Clerke and two Sergeants with Mace whose Graduation is obserued from the Equator to be 53. degrees 25. scruples and from the first point in the West 19. degrees 2. scruples 7 Little-Chester by the Romish Mony there daily found seemeth to haue beene ancient and that a Colonie of the Roman Souldiers there lay Yet of farre greater fame was Repandunum now Repton where Ethelbald the ninth King of the Mercians and fifteenth Monarch of the Englishmen slaine at Seggeswald by the treason of his Subiects was interred and whence Burthred the last King of that people was expulsed with his Queene Ethelswith by the rage of the Danes after twentie two yeares raigne But with a more pleasing eye we may behold Melborne the memoriall of Englishmens great valour where in that Castle was kept Prisoner Iohn Duke of Burbon taken captiue in the Battle of Agincourt
betwixt whom are extended thirtie-foure miles The broadest part is from Awfold Southward to Thamisis by Stanes and them asunder twentie two the whole in circumference is one hundred and twelue miles 3 The Heauens breathing ayre in this Shire is most sweet and delectable so that for the same cause many royall Palaces of our Princes are therein seated and the Countrey better stored with game then with graine insomuch that this Countie is by some men compared vnto a home-spunne freeze cloth with a costly faire lift for that the out-verge doth exceed the middle itselfe And yet is it wealthy enough both in Corne and Pasturage especially in Hâ—â—esdale and towards the Riuer of Thamisis 4 In this Shire the Regni an ancient people mentioned by Ptolemie were seated whom he brancheth further thorow Sussex and some part of Hamp-shire And in the wane of the Romans gouernment when the Land was left to the will of Inuaders the South-Saxons vnder Ella here erected their Kingdome which with the first was raised and soonest found end From them no doubt the Courtie was named Suth-rey as seated vpon the South of the Riuer and now by contraction is called Surrey 5 And albeit the Countie is barren of Cities or Townes of great estate yet is she stored with many Princely Houses yea and fiue of his Majesties so magnificently built that of some she may well say no Shire hath none such as is None-such indeed And were not Richmond a fatall place of Englands best Princes it might in esteeme be ranked with the richest for therein died the great Conquerour of France King Edward the Third the beautifull Anne daughter to Charles the Fourth Emperour and intirely beloued wife to King Richard the Second the most wise Prince King Henry the Seuenth and the rarest of her Sexe the Mirrour of Princes Queene Elizabeth the worlds loue and Subiects joy 6 At Merton likewise Kenulph King of the West-Saxons came to his vntimely end and at Lambeth the hardre Canute and last of the Danish Kings died among his Cuppes But as these places were fatall for the last breath of these Princes so other in this Countie haue beene graced with the body and beginning of other worthy Monarkes for in Chertsâ—y Abbey King Henry the Sixth who was deposed and made away in the Tower of London was first interred without all funerall pompe but for his holy life was imputed a Saint and lastly translated and intombed at Windsore At Kingston likewise stood the Chaire of Maiestic wherein Athelstan Edwin and Ethelred sate at their Coronation and first receiued their Seepter of Imperiall Power Guildforâ— likewise hath beene farre greater then now it is when the Place of our English-Saxon Kingâ— was therein set And seeing it is the midst of the Shire the Graduation from hence shall be obserued where for Latitude the Pole is raised from the degree 51. 22. scruples and her Longitude from the West in the degree 20. and 2. scruples 7 Neither can we account Okam and Ripley two small Villages the least in this Shire which haue brought forth the well knowne men William de Okam that deepe Philosopher and admirable Scholar and George de Ripley the rung leader of our Alchymists and mysticall impostors both of them borne in this Countie and very neere together But why speake I of these sith a place neerer to sight and greater for fame euen Lambeth is the High Seat of Ecclesiasticall Gouernment Pietie and Learning and Palace of Canterburies Arch-bishops the Metropolitanâ— of England First erected by Archbishop Daldwin and euer since hath beene the residing of all those worthy Prelates of our Church who in a long succession euen from Anno 596 haue continued to him that now most worthily sits at the Churches sterne Richard by Gods prouidence Lord Archbishop of that See a most faithfull and prudent Counsellor vnto King IAMES and a most learned and prouident Guide of our most flourishing Church whose gracious fauour vndeseruedly conferred vpon me hath beene a great encouragement to these my poore endeuours 8 Memorable places for Battles sought before the Conquest were Wembledon where when the fulnesse of prosperitie burst forth into Ciuill Dissensions among the Saxons a bloudy Battle was fought betwixt Cheauâ—in the West-Saxon and young Ethelbert of Kent wherein he was discomfited and two of his principall Leaders slaine about the yeare of Christ 560. and three hundred thirtie three yeares after King Elfred with a small power ouercame the Danes with a great slaughter at Faruham in this Countie which somewhat quelled the courage of his sauage enemy 9 Religious Houses erected in this Shire by the deuotion of Princes and set apart ffom publike vses to Gods Diuine Seruice and their owne Saluation as then was taught the best in account were Sbene Chertsey Merton Newarke Rygate Wauerley Horsleg and in Southwarke Bermundsey and S. Maries These all flourished with increase till the ripeâ—esse of their fruit was so pleasing in sight and taste vnto King HENRY the Eight that in beating the boughes he brake downe body and all ruinating those houses and seazing their rich possessions into his owne hands So jealous is GOD of his honour and so great vengeance followeth the sinne of Idolatrie HANT-SHIRE CHAPTER VI. HANT-SHIRE lying vpon the West of England Is bordered vpon the North by Barkshire vpon the East with Surrey and Sussex vpon the South with the British Seas and I le of Wight and vpon the West with Dorset and Wilt-shires 2 The length thereof from Blackwater in the North vpon Surrey vnto Bascomb in the South vpon the Sea extended in a right line is fiftie foure English miles and the breadth drawne from Peters-field in the East vnto Tidworth in the West and confines of Wilt-shire is little lesse then thirtie miles the whole Circumference about one hundred fiftie and fiue miles 3 The Aire is temperate though somewhat thicke by reason of the Seas and the many Riuers that thorow the Shire doe fall whose plentie of fish and fruitfull increase doe manifoldly redeeme the harmes which they make 4 The Soile is rich for Corne and Cattle pleasant for pasturage and plenteous for woods in a word in all commodities either for Sea or Land blessed and happy 5 Hauens it hath and those commodious both to let in and to loose out Ships of great burthen in trade of Merchandise or other imployments whereof Portsmouth Tichfield Hamble and South-hampton are chiefe besides many other creeks that open their bosomes into those Seas and the Coast strengthned with many strong Castles such as Hurst Calshot South-hampton S. Andrewes Worth Porchester and the South Castle besides other Bulwarkes or Blockhouses that secure the Country and further in the Land as Malwood Winchester and Odiam so strong that in the time of King Iohn thirteene English-men onely defended the Fort for fifteene dayes against Lewis of France that with a great Host assaulted it most hotly 6 Anciently it was possest vpon the North by the
Segontians who yeelded themselues to Iulius Caesar and whose chiefe Citie was Vindonum Caer Segonte now Silcester and vpon the South by the Belga and Regni who were subdued by Plausius and Vespasian the Romans where Titus rescuing his Father straitly besieged by the Britaines as Dio and Forcatulus doe report was grasped about with an Adder but no hurt to his person and therefore taken for a signe of good lucke Their chiefe Towne was Rincewood as yet sounding the name and more within Land inhabited the Manures as Beda cals them whose Hundreds also to this day giue a relish of their names 7 Neere Ringwood and the place once Yâ—ENâ— from God and peoples seruice to Beast and luxury thirtie-sixe Parish-Churches were conuerted and pulled downe by the Conquerour and thirtie miles of circuit inforrested for his game of Hunting wherein his sonnes Richard and Rufus with Henry the second sonne to Duke Robert his first felt by hasty death the hand of Iustice Reuenge for in the same Forrest Richard by blasting of a pestilent ayre Rufus by shot taken for a beast and Henry as Absalom hanged by a bough came to their vntimely ends At so deare a rate the pleasures of dogs and harbour for beasts were bought in the bloud of these Princes 8 The generall commodities gotten in this Shire are Woolls Clothes and Iron whereof great store is therein wrought from the Mines and thence transported into all parts of this Realme and their Clothes and Karsies carried into many forraine Countries to that Countries great benefit and Englands great prayse 9 The Trade thereof with other prouisions for the whole are vented thorow eighteene Market-Townes in this Shire whereof Winchester the Britaines Caer Gwent the Romans Venta Belgarum is chiefe ancient enough by our British Historians as built by King Rudhudibras nine hundred yeares before the Natiuitie of Christ and famous in the Romans times for the weauings and embroderies therein wrought to the peculiar vses of their Emperours owne persons In the Saxons time after two Calamities of consuming fire her walles was raised and the Citie made the Royall Seate of their West-Saxons Kings and the Metropolitan of their Bishops See wherein Egbert and 〈◊〉 their most famous Monarchs were Crowned and Henry the third the Normans longest 〈◊〉 first tooke breath And here King Aethelstane erected six houses for his Mintâ— but the Danish desolution ouer-running all this Citie felt their fury in the dayes of King Ethelbright and in the Normans time twice was defaced by the mis-fortune of fire which they againe repaired and graced with the trust of keeping the publike Records of the Realme In the ciuill warres of Maud and Stephen this Citie was sore sacked but againe receiuing breath was by King Edward the third appointed the place for Mart of Wooll and Cloth The Cathedrall Church built by Kenwolf King of the West-Saxons that had beene Amphibalus S. Peters Swithins and now holy Trinitie is the Sanctuarie for the ashes of many English Kings for herein great Egbert Anno 836. with his sonne King Ethelwolfe 857. Here Elfred Oxfords founder 901 with his Queene Elswith 904. Here the first Edmund before the Conquest 924. with his sonnes Elfred and Elsward Here Edred 955. and Edwy 956 both Kings of England Here Emme 1052. with her Danish Lord Canute 1035. and his sonne Hardicanute 1042. And here lastly the Normans Richard and Rufus 1100. were interred their bones by Bishop Fox were gathered and shrined in little guilt coffers fixed vpon a wall in the Quire where still they remaine carefully preserued This Cities situation is fruitfull and pleasant in a vally vnder hils hauing her River on the East and Castle on the West the circuit of whose walls are well neere two English miles containing one thousand eight hundred and eightie paces thorow which openeth sixe gates for entrance and therein are seauen Churches for diuine Seruice besides the Minister and those decayed such as Callender â—uell Chappell S. Maries Abbey and the Friers without in the Suburbes and Sooâ—â— in the East is S. Peters and in the North Hyde Church and Monasterie whose ruines remaining shew the beautie that formerly it bare The Graduation of this Citie by the Mathematickes is placed for Latitude in the degree 51. 10. minutes and for Longitude 19. 3. minutes 10 More South is South-hampton a Towne populous rich and beautifull from whom the whole Shire deriueth her name most strongly walled about with square stone containing in circuit one thousand and two hundred paces hauing seauen Gates for entrance and twentie-nine Towres for defence two very stately Keyes for Ships arriuage and fiue faire Churches for Gods diuine seruice besides an Hospitall called Gâ—ds house wherein the vnfortunate Richard Earle of Cambridge beheaded for treason lieth interred On the West of this Towne is mounted a most beautifull Castle in forme Circular and wall within wall the foundation vpon a hill so topped that it cannot be ascended but by staires carrying a goodly prospect both by Land and Sea and in the East without the walles a goodly Church sometimes stood called S Maries which was pulled downe for that it gaue the French direction of course who with fire had greatly endangered the Towne in stead thereof is newly erected a small and vnfinished Chappell In this place saith learned Cambden stood the ancient Clausentium or fort of the Romans whose circuit on that side extended it selfe to the Sea this suffered many depredations by the Saxon Pirates and in Anno 980. was by the Danes almost quite ouerthrowne In King Edward the thirds time it was fired by the French vnder the Conduct of the King of Sicils sonne whom a Country man encountred and strucke downe with his Club He crying Rancon that is Ransome but he neither vnderstanding his language nor the Law that Armes doth allow laid on more soundly saying I know thee a Frankon and therefore shalt thou dit and in Richard the seconds time it was somewhat remoued and built in the place where now it standeth In this Clausentium Canute to euict his flatterers made triall of his Deitie commanding the Seas to keepe backe from his seat but being not obeyed he acknowledged God to be the onely supreame Gouernour and in a religious deuotion gaue vp his Crowne to the Rood at Winchester More ancient was Silcester built by Constantius great Constantines sonne whose Monument they say was seene in that Citie and where another Constantine put on the purple roabe against Honoâ—â—â— as both Niâ—ius and Geruase of Canterbury doe witnesse Herein by our Historians record the warlike Arthur was Crowned Whose greatnesse for circuit contained no lesse then fourescore Acres of ground and the walles of great height yet standing two miles in compasse about This Citie by the Danish Rouers suffred such wracke that her mounted tops were neuer since seene and her Hulke the wals in mured to the middle in the earth which the rubbish of her owne desolations hath filled VVIGHT
wooddy and fruitfull yet so as the hand of the Manurer must neuer be idle nor the purse of the Farmer neuer fast shut especially of them that are farre from the Sea whence they fetch a sand with charge and much trauell which being spread vpon the face of the earth bettereth the leannesse thereof for graine and giueth life to the Glebe with great efficacy 4 As Cornwall so this hath the same commodities that arise from the Seas and being more inlanded hath more commodious Hauens for Shâ—ppings entercourse among whom Totnes is famous for Brutes first entrance if Geffry say true or if Hauâ—llan the Poet tooke not a Poeticall libertie when speaking of Brute he wrote thus The Gods did guide his sayle and course the winds were at command And Totnes was the happie shoare where first he came on land But with more credit and lamentable euent the Danes at Teigne-mouth first entred for the inuasion of this Land about the yeare of Christ 787. vnto whom Brightrik King of the West-Saxons sent the Steward of his house to know their intents whom resistantly they slew yet were they forced backe to their Ships by the Inhabitants though long they stayed not but eagerly pursued their begun enterprises With more happie successe hath Plimouth set forth the purchasers of same and stopped the entrance of Englands Inuaders as in the Raigne of that eternized Queene the mirrour of Princes Elizabeth of euerlasting memory for from this Port Sir Francis Drake that potent man at Sea setting forth Anno 1577 in the space of two yeares and ten moneths did compasse the circle of the earth by Sea And the Lord Charles Howard Englands high Admirall did not onely from hence impeach the entrance of the proud inuincible Spanish Nauy intending inuasion and subuersion of State but with his Bullets so signed their passage that their sides did well shew in whose hands they had beene as seales of their owne shame and his high honour 5 The commodities of this Shire consist much in Wools and Clothings where the best and finest Kersies are made in the Land Corne is most plenteous in the fruitfull Vallies and Cattle spreading vpon the topped Hils Sea Fish and Fowle exceedingly abundant Veynes of Lead yea and some of Siluer in this Shire are found and the Load-stone not the least for vse and esteeme from the Rocks vpon Dart-more hath beene taken Many fresh Springs doe bubble from the Hils in this Prouince which with a longing desire of Socretie search out their passage till they meete and conjoyne in the Vallies and gathering still strength with more branches lastly grow bodyed able to beare Ships into the Land and to lodge them of great burthen in their Bosomes or Fals whereof Tamar Taue and Ex are the fairest and most commodious 6 Vpon which last the chiefe Citie and Shire-Towne of this Countie is seated and from that Riuer hath her name Excester this Citie by Ptolemie is called Isâ—a by the 〈…〉 Emperour Isâ—a Danmoniorum and by the We so 〈◊〉 It is pleasantly seated vpon the gentle â—scent of an hill so stately for building so rich with 〈…〉 strangers that a man can desire nothing but 〈…〉 The walls of this Citie first built by King 〈…〉 but towards the Ex rangeth almost in a straight line hauing six Gates for entrance and many 〈…〉 betwixt whose compasse containeth about fifteene hundred paces vpon the East part of this Citie standeth a Castle called Rugemont sometimes the Palace of the West-Saxon Kings and after them of the Earles of Cornwall whose prospect is pleasant vnto the 〈…〉 magnificent Cathedrall Church founded by King Athelstan also in the honour of S. Peter and by Edward the Confessor made the Bishops See which the remoued from 〈…〉 in this Countie vnto the Citie of Excester as saith the priuate History of that place whose â—â—â—apidations the reuerend Father in God William now Bishop of the Diocesse with great cost hath repaired whom I may not name without a most thankfull remembrance for the great benefits receiued by his carefull prouidence toward me and mine This Citie was so strong and so well stored of Britaines that they held out against the Saxons for 465. yeares after their first entrance and was not absolutely 〈◊〉 vntill Athelstan became Monarch of the whole who then peopled it with his Saxons and 〈◊〉 the beautie thereof with many faire buildings but in the times of the Danish desolations this Citie with the rest felt their destroying hands for in the yeare 875. it was by them fore afflicted spoyled and shaken and that most grieuously by Swane in the yeare of Christ Iesus 1003. who razed it downe from East to West so that scarcely had it gotten breath before William the bastard of Normandy besieged it against whom the Citizens with great manhood serued till a part of the wall fell downe of it selfe and that by the hand of Gods prouidence saith mine Author since when it hath beene three times besieged and with valiant resistance euer defended The first was by Hugh Courtney Earle of Deuenshire in the Ciuill broyles betwixt Lancaster and Yorke then by Perbin Warbeck that counterfeited Richard Duke of Yorke and lastly by the Cornish Rebels wherein although the Citizens were grieuously pinched with scarsitie yet continued they their faithfull allegeance vnto King Edward the sixt and at this day flourisheth in tranquillitie and wealth being gouerned by a Major twentie-foure Brethren with a Recorder Towne-Clerke and other Officers their Attendants This Cities graduation is set in the degree of Latitude from the North-Pole 50. and 45. scruples and for Longitude from the West to the degree 16. and 25. scruples Neither is Ioseph that excellent Poet whose birth was in this Citie the least of her Ornaments whose Writings bare so great credit that they were divulged in the Germane language vnder the name of Cornelius Nepos The like credit got Crediton in her birth-child Winefred the Apostle of the Hassians Thuringers and Frisians of Germany which were conuerted by him vnto the Gospell and knowledge of Christ 7 Places memorable in this Countie remaining for signes of Battles or other antiquities are these vpon Exmore certaine Monuments of Anticke-worke are erected which are stones pitched in order some triangle-wise and some in round compasse these no doubt were trophies of victories there obtained eyther by the Romans Saxons or Danes and with Danish letters one of them is inscribed giuing direction to such as should trauell that way Hublestowe likewise neere vnto the mouth of Tawe was the buriall place of Hubba the Dane who with his Brother Hungar had harried the English in diuers parts of the Land but lastly was there encountred with and slaine by this Shires Inhabitants and vnder a heape of copped stones interred and the Banner Reasen there and then taken that had so often beene spread in the Danes quarrell and wherein they reposed no small confidence for successe 8 A double dignitie remaineth in
thereof it scarce giues place to any Citie of England and doth worthily deserue the Saxon name Bright-stad whose pleasantnesse is the more by reason that the Riuer Auon scowres through the midst of it which together with the benefit of Sewes vnder all the streets cleares the Citie of all noysome filth and vncleannesse It is not wholly seated in this Countie of Sommerset but one part thereof in Gloucestershire but because it is an entire Countie of it selfe it denyes subiection vnto eyther hauing for its owne gouernment both a Bishop with a well furnished Colledge and a Major with a competent assistance of Aldermen and other Officers for Ciuill affaires 8 This Prouince hath beene the Theater of many Tragicall euents and bloudy Battels the Danes did grieuously afflict Porlock by cruell Piracies in the yeare eight hundred eightâ—e sixe Yet neere vnto Pen a little village â—eighbouring vpon North Cadbury Edmund surnamed Iron-side gaue them a notable soyle as he was pursuing Caâ—â—tus from place to place for vsurping the Crowne of England And Keniwalth a West-Saxon in the same place had such a day against the â—ritaines that they euer after stood in awe of the English-Saxons prowesse Marianus relateth that not farre from Bridge-water as the Dâ—â—es were stragling abroad Ealstan Bishop of Sherbourne did so foyle their Forces in the yeare 845 as their minds were much discomfited and their powers vtterly disabled Niâ—ius also writeth that King Arthur did so defeat the English-Saxons in a battell at Cadbury that it deserued to be made perpetuously memorable Neither is Moâ—s Badonicus now Bannesdowne lesse famous for Arthurs victories And King Elfred in another battell not farre from hence gaue the Danes such an ouerthrow as he forced them to submission and induced Godrus their King to become a Christian himselfe being God-father to him at the â—ont So happie is this Region and so beholding to Nature and Art for her strengths and fortifications as she hath alwayes beeene able to defend her selfe and offend her enemies 9 Neither hath it beene lesse honoured with beauteous houses consecrated to Religion such was that of Black-Charons at Barelinch in the first limit of this Shire Westward and King Athelstan built a Monastery in an Iland called Muchelney that is to say the great Iland which is betweene the Riuers Iuel and Pedred running together where the defaced walles and ruines thereof are yet to be seene King Henry the third also erected a Nunnery at Witham which was afterwards the first house of the Carthusian Monkes in England as Hinâ—â—n not far off was the second But aboue all other for antiquitie glory and beautie was the Abbey of Glasteâ—bury whose beginning is fetcht euen from Ioseph of A â—â—athea which Deni Bishop of S. Dauids repaired being fallen to ruine and King Inas lastly builded a fayre and stately Church in this Monastery though it be now made euen with the ground the ruines onely shewing how great and magnificant a Seat it hath anciently beene which seuerall houses were thus beautified by bounteous Princes for religious purposes and to retire the mind from worldly seruices though blinded times and guides diuerted them to superstitious and lewd abuses 10 Other memorable places are these Camalâ—t a very steepe hill hard to be ascended which appeares to haue beene a worke of the Romans by diuers Coynes digd vp there on the top whereof are seene the lineaments of a large and ancient Castle which the Inhabitants report to haue beene the Palace of King Arthur Ilchester which at the comming of the Normans was so populouâ— that it had in it an hundred and seuen Burgesâ—es and it appeares to be of great antiquitie by the Romane Caesars Coynes oftentimes sound there The Church yard of Aualonia or Glastenbury whâ—re King Arthurs Sepulcher was searcht for by the command of King Henry the second which was found vnder a stone with an Inscription vpon it fastned almost nine foote in the ground Also Dunstere where as is reported a great Lady obtained of her husband so much Pasture ground in common by the Towne side for the good and benefit of the Inhabitants as she was able in a whole day to goe about bare-foote VVILT-SHIRE CHAPTER XII VVILT-SHIRE is enclosed vpon the Northwith Glocester-shire vpon the East is bounded with Bark-shire vpon the South with Dorset and Hampshire and vpon the West is confronted against partly by Glocester and the rest by Somerset shires 2 The forme thereof â—s both long and broad for from Inglesham vpon Thamisis in the North to Burgat Damarum in the South are thirtie nine miles the broadest part is from Buâ—termer Eastward to the Shire-stones in the West being twentie nine the whole in Circumference is one hundred thirtie nine miles 3 For Ayre it is seated in a temperate Climate both sweet pleasant and wholesome and for soile saith Iohn of Sarisbury is exceeding fertile and plentifull yea and that with vaâ—ietie 4 The Northerne part which they call North Wilt shire riseth vp into delectable hilles attired with large Woods and watered with cleare Riuers whereof Isis is one which soone becommeth the most famous in the Land The South part is more euen yeelding abundently grasse and corne and is made the more fruitfull by the Riuers Wily Adder and Auâ—n The midst of this Countie is most plaine and thereby is knowne and commonly called Salesbury 〈◊〉 and lie so leuall indeed that it doth limit the Horizon or hardly can a man see from the one side to the other These Plaines grase an infinite number of sheepe whose fleeces and flesh bring in an yearely reuenew to their owners 5 Anciently this Countie was possessed by the Belga who are seated by Ptolemie in Hampshire Somerset shire and in this Tract and they as it seemeth by Casar were of the Belga in Gaul These as some hold were subdued by Vespasian Lieutenant of the second Legion under Claudius when the foundations of his future greatnesse were in these parts first laid by his many Victories ouer the Britaines And herein surely the Romans seated for besides Yanâ—sburie Trench by Tradition held to be his in many other Forts in this Shire the Tract of their footing hath beene left and the stamped Coines of their Emperours found an apparent testimony of their abode 6 After them the West-Saxons made it a part of their Kingdome whole border was Auon as witnesseth Athelward though the Mercians many times encroched vpon them whereby many great Battles as Malmesbury tels vs betwixt them were fought when in the young yeares of their Heptarchie each sought to enlarge his by the lessening of the next but growne vnto more ripenesse they assigned their limits by a great and long ditch crossing thorow the middest of these Plaines which for the wonder thereof is supposed by the vulgar to be the worke of the Deuill and is called of all Wansdike vndoubtedly of Woden the Saxons Ancestor and great reputed God where a little village yet standeth and
Henry the first most stately beautified with a rich Monastery and strong Castle where in the Collegiate Church of the Abbey himselfe and Queene who lay both veiled and crowned with their daughter Maud the Empresse called the Lady of England were interred as the priuate History of the place auoucheth though others bestow the bodies of these two Queenes else-where The Castle King Henry the second razed to the ground because it was the refuge for the followers of King Stephen From whence the North-pole is raised in Latitude 51 degrees and 40 minutes and in Longitude from the first West-point obserued by Mercator 19 degrees and 35. minutes 7 A Castle and Towne of greater strength and antiquitie was Wallingford by Antonie and Ptolemie called Galtena the chiefest Citie of the Attribatians whose large circuit and strong fortifications shew plainly that it was a place of the Romans abode and since in a conceiued safetie hath made many very bold especially when the sparkes of Englands ciuill dissentions were forced to flame in case of the Crowne betwixt Maud the Empresse and King Stephen whither her selfe and associates resorted as their surest defence 8 But of farre greater magnificence and state is the Castle of Windsor a most Princely Palace and Mansion of his Maiestie I will not with Ieffrey affirme it to be built by King Arthur but with better authoritie say it was so thirsted after by the Conquerour that by a composition with the Abbat of Westminster whose then it was he made it to be the Kings Possession as a Place besides the pleasures very commodious to entertaine the King In this Castle that victorious Prince King Edward the third was borne and herein after he had subdued the French and Scots held he at one and the same time as his Prisoners Iohn King of France and Dauid King of Scotland Neither was it euer graced with greater Maiestie then by the institution of the most honourable Order of the Garter a signall Ornament of Martiall Prowesse the inuention thereof some ascribe to be from a Garter falling from his Queene or rather from Ioan Countesse of Salisbury a Lady of an incomparable beautie as she danced before him whereat the by-standers smâ—â—ing he gaue the impresse to checke all euill conceits and in golden Letters imbelished the Garter with this French Posie HONI SOIT QVI MALY PENSE And yet that worthy Clarenceaux alledging the booke of the first institution findes the inuention to be more ancient as when King Richard the first warred against the Turkes Saracens Cypres and Acon he girt the legs of certaine choise Knights with a tache of leather which promised a future glory to the wearers The most Princely Chappell thereof is graced with the bodies of those two great Kings Henry the sixt and Edward the fourth whom the whole Kingdome was too little to containo the one of Lancaster the other of Yorke where they rest now vnited in one mould with a branch of both those Houses euen King Henry the eight who there lyeth also interred and rests in the Lord. 9 Other places of note in this Shire are Sinodum in the North and Watham in the East both of them places of the Romans residence as by their monyes these oftentimes found appeareth Neither was Sunning the least in this Tract that had beene the Seat of eight Bishops before the See was translated thence vnto Shirburne or that to Salisbury Wantage also is not wanting of honour in bringing to life that learned and most valiant King Ealfred the scourge of the Danes and great Monarch of the English And Finchhamsted for wonder inferiour to none where as our Writers doe witnesse that in the yeare a thousand one hundred a Well boyled vp with streames of bloud and fifteene dayes together continued that Spring whose waters made red all others where they came to the great amazement of the beholders 10 The riches and sweet seats that this Country affordeth made many deuout persons to shew their deuotions vnto true pietie in erecting places for Gods diuine seruice and their exemptions from all worldly businesse such were Abington Redding Bysham Bromehall Henâ—ey Hamme and Wallingford whose Vâ—tarie abusing the intents of their Founders ouerthrew both their owne Orders and places of professions all which were dissolued by Act of Parliament and giuen the King to dispose at his will MIDDLESEX CHAPTER XIIII MIDDLESEX so called in regard of the situation as seated betwixt the West-Saxons and East-Angles was sometimes together with Essex and Hartford-shire that part and portion which the East Saxons enioyed for their Kingdome it lyeth bordered vpon the North with Hartford shire vpon the West by Colne is seuered from Buckingham the South by Thamesis from Surrey and Kent and on the East from Essex by the Riuer Lea. 2 The length thereof extended from 〈◊〉 in the East to Morehall vpon Colne in the West is by measure nineteene English miles and from South 〈◊〉 in the North to his Majesties Mannour of Hampton-Court in the South are little aboue sixteene miles the whole Circumference extending to ninetie miles 3 In foâ—â—e it is almost square for ayre passing temperate for soile abundantly fertile and for pasturage and graine of all kindes yeelding the best so that the Wheat of this Countie hath serued a long time for the manchâ—t to our Princes Table 4 It lyeth seated in a vale most wholesome and rich hauing some hils also and them of good 〈◊〉 from whose tops the prospect of the whole is seene like vnto Zoar in Egypt or rather like a Paradise and Garden of God 5 The ancient Inhabitants knowne to Caesar were the Trinobants whom he nameth to be the most puissant in the Iland whose chiefe Citie and State yeelding him subiection made the whole with lesse losse to the Romans to beare the yoke of their owne bondage and to come in vnder termes of truce But when their forces in these parts were spent and the Empire shaken by intestine warres the Saxons setting their eyes vpon so faire a soile made their footing as sure herein which lastly with Hartford and Essex was the portion of the East-Saxons Kingdome 6 Fiue Princely Houses inheritable to the English Crowne are seated in this Shire which are Enfield Hanworth White-hall S. Iames and Hampton-Court a Citie rather in shew then the Palace of a Prince and for stately Port and gorgeous building not inferiour to any in Europe At Thistleworth once stood the Palace of Richard King of the Romans Earle of Cornewall which the Londâ—ner in a tumultuous broile burned to the ground many other stately Houses of our English Nobilitie Knights and Gentlemen as also of the worshipfull Citizens of London are in this Shire so sumptuously built and pleasantly seated as the like in the like circuit are no where else to be found Neere vnto Thamesis entrance into this Countie is kept the remembrance of Caesars entrance ouer Thamesis by the name of Coway-Stakes stucke fast in the bottome to
abode the Iron-side in fight wherein so much bloud of the English was spilt that Canutus their King in remorse conscience built a Church in the place to pacifie God for the sinnes of his people But when the Normans had got the garland of the whole many of their Nobles there seated themselues whose posterities since both there and else-where are spread further abroad in the Realme 6 The Commodities that this Shire yeeldeth are many and great as of Woods Corne Cattle Fish Forests and Saffron which last groweth with such gaine and increase vpon her North parts that from a split cloue much like vnto Garlicke a white blewish Flower shortly springeth from whence fillets of Saffron are gathered before the Sunne and dryed are sold as spice with great gaine From the Ilands Canuey Mersey Horsey Northly Osey Wallot and Foulnesse great store of Fish and Fowle are daily gotten and so from their Cattle haue they continuall increase which men and boyes milke as well the Ewe as the Kine whereof they make great and thicke Cheese sold abroad in the Land and much thereof transported into other Countries Their Oysters which we call Walfleete the best in esteeme and are thought from Paâ—â—â—e to haue beene serued in the Romans Kitchins But least we should exceed measure in commending or the people repose their trust in the soyle behold what God can doe to frustrate both in a moment and that by his meanest creatures for in our age and remembrance the yeare of Christ 1581. an Army of Mice so ouer ranne the Marshes in Dengey Hundred neere vnto South-minster in this Countie that they shore the grasse to the very roots and so tainted the same with their venemous teeth that a great Murraine fell vpon the Cattle which grased thereon to the great losse of their owners 7 The chiefest Citie for account at this day in this Shire is Colchester built by Coilus the British Prince one hundred twentie-foure yeares after the birth of our Sauiour Christi if he of Moâ—mouth say true wherein his sonne Lucius Helena and Constantine the first Christian King Empresse and Emperour in the world were borne which made Necham for Consiantine to sing as he did From Colchester there rose a Starre The Rayes whereof gaue glorious light Throughout the world in climates farre Great Constantine Romes Emperour bright And the Romanes to the great honour of Helena inscribed her Piâ—ssima Venerabilis Augusta But of these we shall be occasioned to speake more hereafter This Citie is situated vpon the South of the Riuer Coln from whence it hath the name and is walled about raised vpon a high Trench of earth though now much decayed hauing six gates of entrance and three posternes in the West wall besides nine Watch-Towers for defence and containeth in compasse 1980 paces wherein stand eight faire Churches and two other without the walls for Gods diuine seruice S Tenants and the Blacke Fryers decayed in the Suburbs Mary Magdalins the Nunnery S Iohns and the Cruched Fryers all suppressed within towards the East is mounted an old Castle and elder ruines vpon a trench containing two Acres of ground whereas yet may be seene the prouident care they had against all ensuing assaults The trade of this Towne standeth chiefly in making of Cloth and Baies with Saies and other like Stuffes daily inuented and is gouerned by two Bailiffes twelue Aldermen all wearing Scarlet a Recorder a Towne-Clerke and foure Sergeants at Mace Whose position for Latitude is in the degree 52. 14. minutes and for Longitude in the degree 21. and 50. minutes 8 Places of antiquitie and memorable note in this Countie I obserue the most famous to be Camalodumum by vs Maldon which was the Royall Seat of Cunobelâ—â— King of the Trinoâ—antes as by his money therein minted appeareth about the time of our Sauiours birth which Citie afterwards Claudius wonne from the Britaines and therein placed a Colony of Souldiers which were called Victricensis This Citie Queene Boduo in reuenge of her wrongs raced to the ground what time she stirred their people against Nero with the slaughter of seuentie thousand of the Romanes Of some later and lesser account was Ithanchester now S. Peters vpon the wall where the Forteuses with their Captaine kept towards the declination of the Romane Empire In the East Promontory of this Countie in the Raigne of Richard the second the teeth of a Giant were found if they were not of an Elephant of a marueilous size saith Raph Coggeshall and not farre thence in the raigne of Elizabeth more bones to the like wonder were digged vp 9 I purposely omit the message of a Pilgrim from S. Iohn Baptist by whom he sent a Ring to King Edward Confessor for which cause his house tooke the name Hauering seeing the Monkes of those times made no great daintie daily to forge matter for their owne aduantage who in this Shire so swarmed that they had houses erected at Waltham Pritlewell Tiltey Dunâ—ow Leeye Hatfeild Peuerell Chelmesford Coggeshall Maldon Earls coln Colâ—hester S Osths Saffron-Walden Hatfield-Bradocke and more with great reuenewes thereto belonging all which felt the Axes and Hammers of destruction when the rest of such foundations fell vnder the â—â—â—ile of King Henry the eight who with Hezekiah brake downe all these Brazen Serpents SVFFOLKE CHAPTER XVI SVFFOLKE in regard of them which were seated in Norfolke is a Country most plenteous and pleasant for habitation It is separated from Norfolke by the Riuers of the lesser Ouse and Waueney whose heads meet almost in the midst of her Verge and that very neere together the one taking course East and the other full West vpon which part Cambridge-shire doth wholly confront The South side is seuered by Stoure from Essex and the East together washed with the Germane Seas 2 The Ayre is good sweet and delectable and in some parts of some of our best Physitians held to be the best in the Land the Soile is rich fruitfull and with all things well replenished in a word nothing wanting for pleasure of profit 3 The forme thereof is some what Cressant shooting vp narrower into the North and spreading wider towards the South whose broadest part is about twentie miles but from East to West much more for from Easton point the furthest of this Shire yea of all Britaine into the Sea vnto great Ouse Riuer her Westerne bounder are fortie fiue miles and the whole in circumference about one hundred fortie sixe miles 4 Anciently this part of the Iland was possessed by the Iceni who as it seemeth by Tacitus ioyned in Amitie with the Romans a mightie people saith he and neuer shaken with warres before the raigne of Claudius but then by Ostorius were vanquished though not without great slaughter of the Romans and in a Battle against them M. Ostorius the sonne of the Generall wonne great honour in sauing of a Roman Citizens life so ready were they to giue and receiue Honours to themselues but sleightly to
the head of that honour on which in other Shires many Knights Fees and sixteene in this attended Here Dauid Earle of this and Arguise father of Isabel de Brus founded the Hospitall of S. Iohn Baptist And Loâ—â—tote here vpon the Fee of Eustace the Vicount built to the honour of the blessed Virgin the Priory of Blacke Channons valued at the Suppression 232 l. 7. s. ob Here at the North end was a house of Fryers and without the Towne at Hinchingbrooke a Cloister of Nunnes valued at 19. l. 9. s. 2. d. founded by the first William in place of S. Pandonia at Eltesley by him suppressed where neere the end of the last Henry the Family of the Cromwels began their Seat To this Shire-Towne and benefit of the neighbour Countries this Riuer was nauigable vntill the power of Grey a mynion of the time stopt that passage and with it all redresse eyther by Law or Parliament By Charter of King Iohn this Towne hath a peculiar Coroner profit by Toll and Custome Recorder Towne-Clerks and two Bayliffes elected annually for gouernment as at Parliament two Burgesses for aduise and assent and is Lord of it selfe in Fee-Farme The rest of the Hundred wherein this Shire-Towne lyeth is the East part of the County and of Hurst a Parish in the center of it named HVRSTINGSTON it was the Fee-farme of Ramsey Abbey which on a point of fertile land thrust out into the Fennes is therein situate founded in the yeare 969 to God our Lady and S. Benedicte by Farle Aylwin of the Royall bloud replenished with Monkes from Westbury by Oswold of Yorke and dedicated by Dâ—nstan of Canterburie Archbishops By Abbat Regâ—ald 1114 this Church was redified by Magnaâ—â—ll Earle of Essex not long after spoyled and by Henry the Third first of all the Norman Princes visited when wasted with the 〈◊〉 warres Regalis mensae Hospitalitas it abbreuiata fuit vt cum Abbatibus Clericis viris satis humilibus hospitia quaesunt prandia This Monastery the shrine of two martyred Kings Ethelbright and Ethelred and of Saint 〈◊〉 the Persian Bishop by humble pietie at first and pious charitie ascended such a pitch of worldly fortune that it transformed their Founder religious pouertie into their ruine the attribute of Raâ—â—y the rich for hauing made themselues Lords of 387. Hides of land whereof 〈◊〉 in this Shire so much as at an easie and vnder rent was at the Suppression valued at 1983 l 15 s 3. d q. but by account of this time annually amounts to 7000 〈◊〉 they then began to affect popular command and first inclosing that large circuit of land and water for in it lyeth the Mile-square Meere of Ramsey as a peculiar Seignory to them called the Balent or Bandy bounded as the Shire from Eâ—y and from Norman-Crosse with the Hundred Meere by Soueraigne Grant they enioyed regall libertie And then aspiring a step further to place in Parliament made Broughton the head of their Baroâ—e annexing to it in this Shire foure Knights Fees Thus in great glory it stood aboue 400. yeares vntill Henry the Eight amongst many other once bright Lamps of Learning and Religion in this State though then obscured with those blemishes to wealth and ease concomitant dissolued the house although Iohn Warboys then Abbot and his 60 blacke Monkes there maintained were of the first that vnder their hands and conuentuall Seale protested Quod Romanus Pontifex non habet maiorem aliquam Iurisdictionem collatam sibi à Deo in Regno Angliae quam quivis alius externus Episcopus A Cell to this rich Monastery was S. Iuces Priory built in that place of Slep by Earle Adelmus in the raigne of the last Edmund where the incorrupted body of S. Ius there once an Hermit in a vision reuealed was by Ednothus taken vp in his Robes Episcopall and dedicated in the presence of Siward Earle of this Countie and that Lady of renowned piety Ethelfleda to the sacred memory of this Persian Bishop Not farre from this is Somersham the gift of the Saxon Earle Brithnothus to the Church of Ely before his owne fatall expedition against the Danes It is the head of those fiue Townes of which the Soke is composed and was an house to the See of Ely well beautified by Iohn Stanley their Bishop but now by exchange is annexed to the Crowne As these so all the rest of this Hundred was the Churches land except Rippon Regis ancient Demaine To which Saple reserued Forrest adioyned and the greater Stiuecly giuen by the last Dauid Earle of Huntingdon in Fee to his three Seruants Sentlice Lakerutle and Camoys 8 NORMANS CROS the next Hundred taketh name of a Crosse aboue Stilton the place where in former ages this Diuision mustered their people whence Wapentake is deriued it had in it two religious houses the eldest in the confines of Newton and Chesterton neere the Riuer of Auon now Nene founded by the first Abbesse Kineburga the Daughter of Penda and Wife of Aelfred King of Northumberland West side a Trench where Ermin-street-way crossed ouer the Riuer by a Stone-bridge whose ruines are now drowned whence the Roman Towne there seaâ—ed on both sides tooke the name Durobriua as Traiectus Fluminis But this Nunnery as raised was also ruined by the Danes before the Conquest The other a Monastery of Cistertian blacke Monks erected in honour of the Virgin Mary by the second Simon Earle of Huntington at Saltry Iudeth the Land of a Lady of that name wife of Earle Waltheof daughter to Lambert Earle of Leâ—us Neece to the Conquerour by his Sister her Mother and Grand-mother to this Founder Malcome William Kings of Scots Earles of Hamingdon and Heires of this Lady strengthened by seuerall Charters this pious worke Many chiefe of that Line as the last Earle Dauid brother to King William as Isabel the wife of Robert dâ— Brus his Daughter heyre and most of the second branch her Progenie making here their Burials This house now leuell with the ground maintained besides the Abbot sixe Monkes and 22 Hindes and was at the Suppression valued at 199. l. 11. c. 8. d The Founders and Patrons of this Monastery were the Lords of the next place Connington first the seate of Turkillus Earle of the East-Angles that inuited Swayn from Denmarke to inuade this Land and who first squared out the vnbounded marishes of this part to the bordering Townes his rule of proportion allowing to euery Parish tantum de Maâ—isco quantum de sicca terra in bredth in which none sine licentia Domini might vel federe vel salcare but leauing most to inter-common by vicinage This Dane exiled when the rest of his Countreymen were by Edward Confessor his land here was giuen to Earle 〈◊〉 by whose eldest heire Matilda marryed to Dauid King of Scots it went along in that Male line vntill by death issuelesse of Iohn Earle of Chester and Huntingdon it fell in partage to his sister Iâ—abel de
sixe Yeomen It hath beene accounted the Key into Ireland and great pitie it is that the Port should decay as it daily doth the Sea being stopped to scoure the Riuer by a Causey that thwarteth Dee at her bridge Within the wals of this Citie are eight Parish-Churches S. Iohns the greater and lesser in the Suburbs are the White Fryers Blacke-Fryers and Nunnery now suppressed From which Citie the Pole is eleuated vnto the degree 53. 58. minutes of Latitude and from the first point of the West in Longitude vnto the 17. degree and 18. minutes 8 The Earledome whereof was possessed from the Conquerour till it fell lastly to the Crowne the last of whom though not with the least hopes is Prince Henry who to the Titles of Prince of Wales and Duke of Cornwall hath by Succession and right of Inheritance the Earledome of Chester annexed to his other most happy Stiles Vpon whose person I pray that the Angels of Iacobs God may euer attend to his great glory and Great Britaines happinesse 9 If I should vrge credit vnto the report of certaine Trees floating in Bagmere onely against the deaths of the Heyres of the Breretons thereby seated and after to sinke vntill the next like occasion or inforce for truth the Prophecie which Leyland in a Poeticall fury forespake of Beeston Castle highly mounted vpon a steepe hill I should forget my selfe and wonted opinion that can hardly beleeue any such vaine predictions though they be told from the mouthes of credit as Bagmere Trees are or learned Leyland for Beeston who thus writeth The day will come when it againe shall mount his head aloft If â— a Prophet may be heard from Seers that say so oft With eight other Castles this Shire hath beene strengthned which were Ould-Castle Shoclath Shotwitch Chester Poulefourd Dunham Frâ—desham and Haulten and by the Prayers as then was taught of eight religious houses therein seated preserued which by King Henry the eight were suppressed namely Stanlowe Iâ—â—ree Maxfâ—ld Norton Bunbery Combermere Rud-heath and Vale-Royall besides the White and Blacke Fryers and the Nunnery in Chester LANCA-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXVII THE Countie Palatine of Lancaster famous for the foure Henries the fourth fift sixt and seauenth Kings of England deriued from Iohn of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster is vpon the South confined and parted by the Riuer Merscy from the Countie Palatine of Chester the faire Countie of Darby-shire bordering vpon the East the large Country of Yorkeshire together with Westmerland and Cumberland being her kinde neighbours vpon the North and the Sea called Maâ—â— Hebernicum embracing her vpon the West 2 The forme thereof is long for it is so inclosed betweene Yorke shire on the East side and the Irish Sea on the West that where it boundeth vpon Cheshire on the South-side it is broader and by little and little more Northward it goeth confining vpon Westmerland the more narrow it groweth It containeth in length from Brathey Northward to Halwood South-ward fiftie seauen miles from Denton in the East to Fâ—rmby by Altmouth in the West thirtie one and the whole circumference in compasse one hundred three-score and ten miles 3 The Aire is 〈…〉 not troubled with grosse vapours or foggy mists by reason whereof the 〈…〉 long and healthfully and are not subiect to strange and vnknowne deseases 4 The Soile for the generalitie is not very fruitfull yet it produceth such numbers of Cattle of such large proportion and such goodly heads and hornes as the whole Kingdome of Spaine doth scarce the like It is a Country replenished with all necessaries for the vse of man yeelding without any great labour the commoditie of Corne Flaxe Grasse Coales and such like The Sea also adding her blessing to the Land that the people of that Prouince want nothing that serues either for the sustenance of nature or the safetie of appetite They are plentifully furnished with all sorts of Fish Flesh and Fowles Their principall fuell is Coale and Turffe which they haue in great abundance the Gentlemen reseruing their woods very carefully as a beautie and principall ornament to their Mannors and houses And though it be farre from London the capitall Citie of this Kingdome yet doth it euery yeare furnish her and many other parts of the Land besides with many thousands of Cattle bred in this Country giuing thereby and otherwayes a firme testimony to the world of the blessed abundance that it hath pleased God to enrich this noble Dukedome withall 5 This Counties ancient Inhabitants were the Brigantes of whom there is more mention in the description of Yorkeshire who by Claudius the Emperour were brought vnder the Roman subiection that so held and made it their Seat secured by their Garrisons as hath beene gathered as well by many inscriptions found in walles and ancient monuments fixed in stones as by certaine Altars erected in fauour of their Emperours After the Romans the Saxons brought it vnder their protection and held it for a part of their Northumbrian Kingdome till it was first made subiugate to the inuasion of the Danes and then conquered by the victorious Normans whose posterities from thence are branched further into England 6 Places of antiquitie or memorable note are these the Towne of Manchester so famous as well for the Market-place Church and Colledge as for the resort vnto it for clothing was called Mancunium by Antonine the Emperour and was made a Fort and Station of the Romans Riblechester which taketh the name from Rhibell a little Riuer neere Clithero though it be a small Towne yet by tradition hath beene called the richest Towne in Christendome and reported to haue beene the Seat of the Romans which the many Monuments of their Antiquities Statues peeces of Coine and other seuerall inscription digd vp from time to time by the Inhabitants may giue vs sufficient perswasion to beleeue But the Shire-Towne is Lancaster more pleasant in situation then rich of Inhabitants built on the South of the Riuer Lon and is the same Longouicum where as we finde in the Notice Prouinces a company of the Longoâ—icarians vnder the Lieutenant Generall of Britaine lay The beautie of this Towne is in the Church Castle and Bridge her streets many and stretched farre in length Vnto this Towne King Edward the third granted a Maior and two Bailiffes which to this day are elected out of twelue Brethren assisted by twentie-foure Burgesses by whom it is yearely gouerned with the supply of two Chamberlaines a Recorder Towne-Clerke and two Sergeants at Mace The eleuation of whoâ—â— Pole is in the degree of Latitude 54 and 58. scruples and her Longitude remoued from the first West 〈◊〉 vnto the degree 17 and 4â— scruples 7 This Country in diuers places suffereth the force of many flowing Tides of the Sea by which after a sort it doth violently rent asunder one part of the Shire from the other as in Fournesse where the 〈◊〉 displeased that the short should from thence shoot a maine way into the
rase-stones containing 24. miles the whole circumference about 112. miles 3 The forme thereof is somewhat long and narrow the Aire sharpe and piercing purging it selfe from the trouble of grosse foggy mists and vapours by reason of which the people of this Prouince are not acquainted with strange diseases or imperfections of body but liue long and are healthfull and attaine to the number of many yeares 4 The Soile for the most part of it is but barren and can hardly be brought to any fruitfulnesse by the industry and painfull labour of the husbandman being so full of infertile places which the Northern Englishmen call Moores yet the more Southerly part is not reported to be so sterile but more fruitfull in the vallies though contained in a narrow roome betweene the Riuer Lone and Wâ—â—ander mear and it is all termed by one name The Barony of Kendale or Candale that is the dale by Can taking the name of the Riuer Can that runs through it 5 The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Brigantes mentioned in the seuerall Counties of Yorke Lancaster and Cumberland 6 It is not commended either for plentie of Corne or Cattle being neither stored with arable grounds to bring forth the one nor pasturage to breed vp the other the principall profit that the people of this Prouince raise vnto themselues is by cloathing 7 The chiefest place of which is Kandale or Kendale called also Kirkeby Kendale standing on the banke of the Riuer Can. This Towne is of great trade and resort and for the diligent and industrious practise of making cloath so excels the rest that in regard thereof it carrieth a supereminent name aboue them and hath great vent trashque for her wollen cloaths through all the parts of England It challengeth not much glory for Antiquitie onely this it accounteth a great credit that it hath dignified three Earles with the title thereof as Iohn Duke of Bedford whom Henry the Fift being his brother aduanced to that honour Iohn Duke of Sommerset and Iohn de Foix whom King Henry the sixt preferred to that dignitie for his honourable and trusty seruices done in the French warres It is a place of very ciuill and orderly gouernment the which is mannaged by an Alderman chosen euery yeare out of his twelue Brethren who are all distinguished and notified from the rest by the wearing of purple garments The Alderman and his Senior Brother are alwayes Iustices of Peace and Quorum There are in it a Towne-Clerke a Recorder two Sergeants at Mace and two Chamberlaines By Mathematicall obseruation the site of this Towne is in the degree of Longitude 17. 30. scruples from the first West point and the Pole eleuated in Latitude to the degree 55. and 15. minutes 8 Places of memorable note for Antiquitie are Vertera mentioned by Antonine the Emperour and Aballaba which we contractly call Apelby In the one the Northerne English conspired against William the Conquerour in the beginning of the Norman gouernment In the other the Aâ—relâ—an Maures kept a station in the time of the Romanes and their high streete is yet apparently to be seene by the ridges thereof which lead by Apelby to a place called Brouonacum mentioned in the Booke of Prouinciall notices The antique pieces of Romane Coyne other whiles digd vp hereabouts and some Inscriptions not long since found shew of what continuance they haue beene although Time which deuouteth all things hath so fed vpon their carkasses many ages together as it hath almost consumed both houses and Inhabitants For Apelby now is bare both of people and building and were it not for the antiquitie that makes it the more esteemable in whose Castle the Assises are commonly kept it would be little better in account then a village Verterae is long since decayed and the name of it changed into Burgh for it is commonly named Burgh vnder Staâ—emore In which it is said a Romane Captaine made his abode with a band of Directores in the declining age of the Romane Empire These two places William of Newborough calleth Princely Holds and writeth that William King of Scots a little before he himselfe was taken prisoner at Alnewicke surprized them on a sodaine but King Iohn recouered them after and liberally bestowed them vpon Robert Vâ—pont for his many worthy seruices 9 There is mention made but of one religious house that hath beene in all this Country and that was a little Monastery seated neere vnto the Riuer Lodâ—â— built by Thoâ—as the sonne of Gospatricke the sonne of Orms where there is a fountaine or spring that ebbes and flowes many times a day and it is thought that some notable Act of Atchieuement hath beene performed there for that there be huge stones in forme of Pyramides some nine foot high and fourteene foot thicke ranged for a mile in length directly in a row and equally distant which might seeme to haue beene there purposely pitcâ—ed in memory thereof but what that Act was is not now knowne but quite worne out of remembrance by times iniurie 10 Other matters worthy obseruation are onely these That at Amboglana now called Amble-side neere the vpper corner of Winander mear there appeares at this day the ruines of an ancient Citie which by the British-Brickes by Romane-money oftentimes found there by High-wayes paued leading vnto it and other likelihoods seemes to haue beene a worke of the Romanes The Fortresse thereof so long fenced with a ditch and rampire that it tooke vp in length one hundred thirtie two Ells and in bredth eight There are also neere Kendale in the Riuer Can two Catadupae or Waterfals where the waters descend with such a forcible downefall that it compels a mightie noyse to be heard which the neighbour Inhabitants make such vse of as they stand them in as good stead as Prognostications for when that which standeth North from them soundeth more cleare and with a louder eccho in their eares they certainly looke for faire weather to follow But when that on the South doth the like they expect foggy mists and showres of raine 11 This Prouince is traded with foure Market-Townes fortified with the strength of seuen Castles and hath 26. Parishes in it for the celebration of Diuine Seruice CVMBERLAND CHAPTER XLI CVMBERLAND the furthest North-west Prouince in this Realme of England confronteth vpon the South of Scotland and is diuided from that Kingdome partly by the Riuer â—irsoâ— then crossing Eske by a tract thorow Solome-Mosse vntill it come to the Solwaye Frith by Ptolemie called the 〈◊〉 Baye The North-west part is neighboured by Northumberland more East-ward with Westmerland the South with Lancashire and the West is wholly washed with the Irish Seas 2 The forme whereof is long and narrow pointing wedge-like into the South which part is altogether pestred with copped-hilles and therefore hath the name of Cop-land The middle is more leuell and better inhabited yeelding sufficient for the sustenance of man but the North is wilde and
Penbroke Tenby Hereford West with the goodly and many branched Hauen of Milford called in Welsh Aberdangledhett S. Dauids or Meneuiâ— which is the chiefest See in Wales Fiscard called Aberwayn and Newport named Tresdreth 18 The third part was Caermarden-shire which is a Country accounted the strongest part of all South-Wales as that which is full of high Mountaines great Woods and faire Riuers 19 The fourth called Morganwe now Glamorgan-shire hath on the South the Seuerne Sea which diuideth it from Deuonshire and Cornewall vpon the West and North-west Carmarden-shire vpon the North-east Breckneck-shire and vpon the East Monmouth-shire 20 The fift now called Gwent and in Monmouth-shire hath in it the ancient Citie of Caerlbeon vpon Vske There are also diuers Townes and Castles Chepstow Glynstrygul Râ—s Tynterne vpon the Riuer Wye c. This is a faire and fertile Country It hath on the West Glamorgan and Brecknock-shires vpon the North Hereford-shire vpon the East Glocester-shire with the Riuer Wye and the Riuer Seuerne vpon the South and South-east 21 The last is Brecknock-shire for the most part full of Mountaines Woods and Riuers This Country is both great and large being full of faire plaines and vallyes for Corne it hath plentie of the thicke Woods Forrests and Parkes It is full also of cleere and deepe Riuers of which Seuerne is the chiefest although there be other faire Riuers as Vske and the like 22 Thus farre concerning the ancient Welsh diuision by Talaiths but the present diuision distributeth them more compendiously into two Countries and twelue Shires enacted so by Parlament vnder King Henry the eight The Countries are North-Wales and South-Wales which haue shared and as it were deuoured betweene them all Powysland each of which Countries containes sixe Shires North-Wales Anglesey Caâ—â—â—aruon Merionyth Denbigh Flint Montgomery South-Wales Caerdigan Pembroke Carmarden Glamorgan Brecknocks Radnâ—r PEMBROKE-SHIRE CHAPTER II. PEMBROKE-SHIRE the furthest Promontory of all West-Wales lieth parted on the North from Cardigan-shire with the Riuers Tyâ—y and Keach and on the East is confronted by Caermarden-shire the South and West shooting farre into the Irish Seas is with the same altogether washed 2 The forme thereof is longer then it is broad for from S 〈◊〉 South-point to Cardigan-bridge in the North are twentie-sixe miles the Easterne Landenie to S. Dauids point in the West are twentie miles the whole in circumference is nintie three miles 3 The Aire is passing temperate by the report of Giraldus who confirmeth his reason from the site of Ireland against which it butteth and so neere adioyned that King Rufus thought it possible to make a Bridge of his Shippes ouer the Sea whereby he might passe to Ireland on foot 4 Anciently it was possessed by the Demetia further branched into Cardigan and Caermarden-shires as in that County hath beene said and in the Saxons Conquest and Heptarchte by the Britaine 's forced into those parts for refuge whither Henry the first and third of the Normans King sent certaine Flemings whose Country was ouer-whelmed with the breaking 〈◊〉 of the Seas to inhabite the maritine Tract called Rosse lying West vpon the Riuer Dougledye Thess Dutchmen saith Giraldus were a strong and stout Nation inured to Warres and accustomed to seeke gaine by Clothing Traffique and Tillage and euer readie for the Field to fight it out adding withall that they were most loyall to the English and most faithfull to the English-men Whereupon Malmesbury writeth thus Many a time did King William Rufus assaile the Welsh but euer in vaine which is to be wondred at considering his other fortunate successe But saith he it may be the vneuennesse of the ground and sharpnesse of the aire that maintained their courage and impeached his valour which to redresse King Henry his brother found meanes for those Flemings who in regard of his mothers kindred by the fathers side sorely pestred and endammaged the English he sent into Wales both to purge and disburden his owne Kingdome and to quell and keepe backe the courage of his enemies These men here seated deceiued not his expectation but so carried themselues in his quarrell that they seldome communicated with their neighbours so that to this day they speake not the Language and the Country is yet called Little England beyond Wales 5 The commodities of this Shire are Corne Cattle Sea-Fish and Fowle and in Giraldus his dayes of saleable Wines the Hauens being so commodious for Ships arriuage such is that at Tenby and Milford an Hauen of such capacitie that sixteene Creekes fiue Bayes and thirteene Roades knowne all by seuerall names are therein contained where Henry of Richmond of most happie memory arriued with signall hopes of Englands freedome from vnder the gouernment of an vsurping Tyrant 6 Neere vnto this is Pembroke the Shire-Towne seated more ancient in shew then it is in yeares and more houses without Inhabitants then I saw in any one Citie thorowout my suruey It is walled long-wise and them but indifferent for repaire containing in circuit eight hundred and fourescore pases hauing three Gates of passage and at the West end a large Castle and locked-causey that leads ouer the water to the decayed Priory of Monton The site of this Towne is in the degree of Longitude as Mercator doth measure 14. and 55. minutes and the eleuation from the North-pole in the degree of Latitude 52. 7 A Citie as barren is old Saint Dauids neither clad with Woods nor garnished with Riuers nor beautified with Fields nor adorned vvith Meadowes but lieth alwayes open both to winde and stormes Yet hath it beene a Nursery to holy men for herein liued Calphâ—â—rnius a Britaine Priest whose wife was Concha sister to Saint Martin and both of them the parents of Saint Patricke the Apostle of Ireland Deus a most religious Bishop made this an Archiepiscopall See remoued from Isâ—a Legionum This the Britaines call Tuy Dewy the house of Deui we Saint Dauids a Citie with few Inhabitants yet hath it a faire Cathedrall Church dedicated to Saint Andrew and Dauid in the middest of whose Quire lieth intombed Edmund Earle of Richmond father to King Henry the seuenth whose Monument as the Prebends told me spared their Church from other defacements when all went downe vnder the hammers of King Henry the eight About this is a faire wall and the Bishops Palace all of free stone a goodly house I assure you and of great receit whose vncouered tops cause the curious workes in the walles daily to weepe and them to feare their downefall ere long 8 But Monton the Priorie and S. Dogmels places of deuout pietie erected in this Countie found not the like fauour when the commission of their dissolutions came downe against them and the axes of destruction cut downe the props of their walles RADNOR-SHIRE CHAPTER III. RADNOR-SHIRE lieth bordered vpon the North with the County Monmouth vpon the East toucheth Shropshire and Herefordshire the Riuers Clarwen and Wye diuide it from Breknock in the