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B18452 Camden's Britannia newly translated into English, with large additions and improvements ; publish'd by Edmund Gibson ...; Britannia. English Camden, William, 1551-1623.; Gibson, Edmund, 1669-1748. 1695 (1695) Wing C359 2,080,727 883

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lately digg'd up And what puts it beyond all dispute is a Fosse-way beginning there which leads to Sorbiodunum or old Salisbury Continuation of the EARLS Thomas the last Earl mention'd by our Author dying of an Apoplexy April 19. 1608. was succeeded by Robert his son and heir whose second son Richard succeeded his father Thomas the eldest son dying before his father and unmarry'd This Richard dying without issue his younger brother Sir Edward Sackvil succeeded him in his honours who was first Lord Chamberlain to Queen Mary wife of King Charles 1. and afterwards bore the same Office to that King His son Richard was next Earl and was succeeded by Charles his son by the Lady Frances daughter to Leonel Earl of Middlesex and at length heir to James Earl of Middlesex her brother upon which account the said Charles was created Earl of Middlesex by Letters Patents bearing date April 14. 27 Car. 2. More rare Plants growing wild in Dorsetshire Calamogrostis five Gramen tomentosum Park Gramen tomentosum Calamograstis quorundam vulgi Gramen plumosum Lob. Belg. Gr. arundinaceum paniculâ molli spadicea majus C. B. The soft or woolly Reedgrass This groweth in the borders of dry fields in many Countries of this Kingdom especially in Dorsetshire Park p. 1182. I am suspicious there will be no such grass found in this or any other County of England neither am I satisfied what sort of Grass Lobel meant by this title See his description of his own translation out of his Dutch Herbal in Parkinson Carduus stellatus luteus foliis Cyani C. B. Solstitialis G. R. Spina Solstitialis J. B. Cardui stellati varietas jacea lutea clusii Lob. S. Barnaby's Thistle By the hedges not far from Cirencester in Glocestershire Mr. Bobert Cyperus longus Ger. longus odoratus Park odoratus radice longa seu Cyperus Officinarum C. B. paniculâ sparsa speciosa J. B. The ordinary sweet Cyperus grass or English Galingale Found by Mr. Newton in the Isle of Purbeck Dorsetshire Gale frutex odoratus Septentrionalium Elaeagnus Cordi J. B. Myrtus Brabantica five Elaeagnus Cordi Ger. Rhus myrtifolia Belgica C. B. Sylvestris five Myrtus Brabantica vel Anglica C. B. Gaule sweet Willow or Dutch Myrtle In a low level marsh ground near Wareham in this County plentifully Malva arborea marina nostras Park English Sea Tree-mallow About the cottages of the Village called Chissell in Portland Island Sedum Portlandicum Ad. Lob. majus marinum Anglicum Park Portland Sengreen Lobel writing so ambiguously of this plant and we having not seen nor heard of it at Portland I should not have thought it worth mentioning but that I find it in some Catalogues of Gardens Vermicularis frutex minor Ger. fruticosa altera Park Sedum minus fructicosum C. B. An Cali species seu Vermicularis marina arborescens J. B. Shrub-Stonecrop or rather Glasswort On the stone batch running from the shore of Dorsetshire almost to Portland Island SOMERSET SHIRE by Robt. Morden BELGAE TOWARDS the North and East the Belgae border'd upon the Durotriges who probably both from the name and other good authority came from among the Belgae a people of Gaule into Britain For the Belgae as Caesar learn'd of the Rhemi were descended from the Germans and formerly passing over the Rhine were induc'd by the fruitfulness of the place to settle there after they had expell'd the Gauls From whence as the same Author has it they pass'd over into Britain with no other design than to plunder and ravage and were all call'd by the names of those cities where they had been born and to which they belong'd before they came thither here making war upon the inhabitants they settl'd and began to cultivate the ground It does not precisely appear at what time they came over unless possibly Divitiacus King of the Suessiones who flourish'd before Caesar might transplant the Belgae into those parts For he had the government of a great part as of Gaule so also of Britaine Neither is it yet clear'd from whence the name of Belgae should come Hubert Thomas † Leodius of Leige a very learned man was of opinion that Belgae is a German word because the Germans call the Gauls and Italians Wallen and some of them term them Welgen John Goropius a Belgian will have it come from the Belgick word Belke signifying in that language Anger as if they were more prone to anger than others But since the name of Belgae does not seem to be deriv'd from that language us'd at this day by the Low-Dutch which is almost the same with our English-Saxon for it came from the Saxons which Charles the Great transplanted into Brabant and Flanders I am inclin'd to favour the opinion of those men who fetch it from the old Gaulish tongue which our Welsh do still in a great measure keep entire and will have the Belgae so nam'd from Pel with them signifying remote For they were the remotest of all Gaule and as they were at the greatest distance from the Roman Province with respect to their situation so also to their breeding and humanity And the Poet has told us that the Morini a people of Gallia Belgica were the most remote when he calls them Extremi hominum the furthest part of mankind But now let us come to our Belgae whose territories were very large viz. Somersetshire Wiltshire and the inner part of Hamshire A SOMERSETSHIRE THE County of Somerset commonly call'd Somersetshire is a large and plentiful country On the north the Severn-sea beats upon it on the west it bounds upon Devonshire on the south upon Dorsetshire on the east upon Wiltshire and part of Glocestershire The soil is very rich especially for grain and pasturage 1 And yet not without stony hills 't is very populous and tolerably well furnish'd with havens Some think that this name was first given it because the air is gentle and as it were a summer-air in those parts in which sense the Britains at this day call it Glad arhaf translating the word out of our language But the truth is as in summer time it may really be term'd a summer-country so no less may it in the winter-season be call'd a winter-country so wet moist and marshy is it for the most part which creates a great deal of trouble to travellers However I shall not scruple to believe that this name was certainly given it from Somerton formerly the chief town of the County since Asser a very ancient Author calls it every where the County of Somertun a 2 In the very first limit of the shire westward where Ex riseth in a solitary and hilly moor first appeareth Dulverton a silly market according to the soil and near unto it was a small Religious house of Black Chanons at Barelinch who in later times acknowledged the Fettiplaces their founders Upon the Severn sea where this County borders upon the Danmonii the two first places we meet with
amongst which is a pulpit of stone and a Chappel wherein they say that Jordan Companion to St. Austin the English Apostle was bury'd but 't is now a free-school This place not to mention the private houses is beautify'd on all sides with publick and stately buildings On one side with a Collegiate Church call'd Gaunts from its founder Sir Henry Gaunt Knight who quitting the affairs of this world here dedicated himself to God now by the munificence of T. Carre a wealthy citizen it is converted into a Hospital for Orphans On the other side over against it are two Churches dedicated to St. Austin the one but small and a Parish-Church the other larger and the Bishop's Cathedral adorn'd by King Henry 8. with six Prebendaries Now the greatest part of it is pull'd down and the College gate which indeed is curiously built has this Inscription REX HENRICVS II. ET DOMINVS ROBERTVS FILIVS HARDINGI FILII REGIS DACIAE HVIVS MONASTERII PRIMI FVNDATORES EXTITERVNT That is King Henry 2. and Lord Robert the son of Harding son to the King of Denmark were the first founders of this Monastery This Robert 42 Call'd by the Normans Fitz Harding Harding's son of the blood-ro●al of Denmark was an Alderman of Bristol and was so great with King Henry 43 The second that by his favour Maurice his son marry'd the daughter of the Lord de Barkley from whence his posterity Barons of Barkley who flourish'd in great state are to this day call'd Barons of Barkley Register of the Monastery some whereof are bury'd in this Church aa From hence where the Avon runs are high rocks on both sides the river as if Nature had industriously design'd them One of these which hangs over the river on the east-side is call'd S. Vincent's and is so stock'd with Diamonds British Diamonds that one may get whole bushels of them But the great plenty lessens their true value among us for besides that by their transparency they even vie with those from the Indies they do not yield to them in any respect save hardness but their being smooth'd and fil'd by nature into six or four corners does in my mind render them more admirable bb The other rock on the western bank is likewise full of Diamonds which by a wonderful artifice of nature are contain'd in hollow reddish flints for the ground here is red as if they were big with young The Avon after it has pass'd by these rocks is at last with a full channel unloaded into the Severn-Aestuary cc It remains now that I reckon up the Earls and Dukes of this County of Somerset Earls and Dukes of Somerset The first Earl of Somerset is said to have been William de Mohun or Moion the same probably that b Vid. Hist Matth. Paris Minor Maud the Empress in her Charter whereby she created William de Mandevil Earl of Essex makes use of as a witness under the name of Comes W. de Moion i.e. Earl W. de Moion From this time there occurs no distinct mention of the Earls of Somerset unless it be in this Rescript of King Hen. 3. Patents an 1 Hen. 3. to Peter de Mawley which I will set down in order to incite others to spend their judgments upon it Know ye that we have receiv'd the homage of our belov'd Uncle William Earl of Sarum for all the lands which he holds of us especially for the County of Somerset which we have given to him with all the Appurtenances for homage and service reserving still to our selves the Royalties and therefore we command you that you grant him a full seisin of the said County with all it's Appurtenances and for the future not to intermeddle with any thing belonging to the said County c. And we charge all our Earls Barons Knights and Freetenents of the County of Somerset that they pay Fealty and Homage to the said Earl with reserve only of fidelity to the King and that for the future they be obedient and answerable to him as their Lord. Whether one may from hence conclude that he was Earl of Somerset as also of Devonshire for he writ too in the same words to Robert Courtney concerning this William I leave to the judgment of others Under this Henry 3. as we read in a Book in French belonging to the family of the Mohuns Knights 't is said that Pope Innocent on a solemn festival made Reginald Mohun Earl of Este i.e. as our Author interprets it of Somerset delivering him a golden Rose and granting an annual pension to be paid yearly at the altar of S. Paul's in London So that this man seems not so much to have been properly Earl as Apostolical Earl An Apostolical E●●● for so such were term'd in that age who were created by the Pope as those created by the Emperour Imperial Earls having a power of licensing Notaries and Scribes making Bastards legitimate c. under some certain conditions A considerable time after John de Beaufort natural son to John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster by Catharine Swinford See the Earls of Dorset being with his brothers and sister made legitimate by K. Richard 2. by the assent of Parliament was advanc'd to the honour of Earl of Somerset and afterwards created Marquess of Dorset but was presently depriv'd of that honour by Henry 4. and had only the title of Somerset left him He had three sons Henry Earl of Somerset who dy'd young John created by K. Henry 5. first Duke of Somerset who had an only daughter Margaret mother to K. Henry 7. and Edmund who succeeded his brother in the Dukedom and was for some time Regent of France But being recall'd he was accus'd of having lost Normandy upon which account he suffer'd many indignities from the people and in that lamentable war between the two houses of Lancaster and York was slain in the first battle of S. Albans Henry his son succeeded him who being a time-server and one while siding with the house of York another with the house of Lancaster was by the York-party taken prisoner in the battle of Hexam and had his levity punish d with the loss of his head And his brother Edmund who succeeded him in this honour the last Duke of Somerset of this family after the defeat of the Lancastrian party at Tewksbury was dragg'd being all over blood out of the Church wherein he had taken Sanctuary and beheaded The legitimate heirs male of this family being thus extinct first Henry 7. honour'd Edmund his young son with this title who soon after dy'd and next Henry 8. his natural son Henry Fitz-Roy who dying without issue Edward 6. invested 44 Sir Edward c. Edward de Sancto Mauro commonly call'd Seimor with the same who being full of Honours and as it were loaded with Titles for he was Duke of Somerset Earl of Hertford Viscount Beauchamp Baron of S. Maur Uncle to the King Governour to
bringing about that happy change The soil for some miles about Bathe especially to the westward as at Coston and thereabouts is so very stony that when 't is newly plough'd one would rather take the ridges for so many pitch'd Causeys to walk on than for a plough'd land to sow corn in so little of earth is to be seen among those bare stones the plough-share turns up Yet here they have as good wheat as any in England tho' perhaps not altogether so much on an acre as in deeper land The Country-men attribute these large crops mostly to the stones and if those were carry'd off the earth left upon the hard rock would be so little that it would not cover their corn and so light that the wind would blow it away t Between Bathe and Bristol a little river runs into the Avon ●●n● ●r MS. upon which is Stanton-drew whereof the latter part might seem to point out some relation to the old Druids but that Drew is the name of an ancient family in the western parts and the monument there call'd the Wedding would strengthen such a conjecture The occasion of the name Wedding is a tradition which passes among the common people That a Bride going to be married she and the rest of the company were chang'd into these stones They are in a circular form 5 or 6 foot high and the whole monument is bigger than Stonehenge the Diameter here being 90 paces tho' no appearance of a ditch Returning to the river Avon we come to Cainsham rather Keynesham Keynesham call'd so from the Virgin Keina of whose family the Keynes of this County some whereof are still living affirm themselves des●ended But whereas Mr. Camden affirms he saw a stone like a serpent brought from hence with a head it is a mistake for all our Naturalists now agree that such stones are form'd in Nautili shells and that there are no heads belonging to them Indeed many of them have rough and broken pieces of stone issuing from them beyond the moulded wreath at the broad end which may have led some to imagine that those pieces were imperfect heads but really they are not so Such kind of snake-stones of all sizes from above a foot to an inch or two diameter are found frequently in their quarries w Between this place and Bristol upon the Avon is Bristleton Bristleton abounding in the same sort of cole that are brought from New-castle From Bristleton in several places of the adjacent Country as far as Stratton and Mendippe-hills as also Northward in Glocestershire are found veins of this cole which afford a strong and cheap firing to all those parts These veins of Cole are cover'd with a shell of a black hard stony substance call'd wark which will split like blue slat but is much more brittle and not by much so hard Upon dividing this Wark there is often sound upon one of the separated surfaces the perfect shape of a fern leaf as if it had by a skilful hand been engraven which as an exact mould or case receives the protuberant figure of the like leaf standing out on the other x Next the Avon runs to Bristol Bristol eminent for it's Goutes or subterraneous vaults by reason of which they draw all things on sledges for fear the shaking of cart-wheels should loosen these arches y About the Conqueror's time they paid thirty three marks and one mark of gold to Bishop G. Who this Bishop was is not express'd in Domesday nor any more than the bare initial either of his name or See If we durst say that G. were instead of an S. for those two letters are not unlike Sherborn or Salisbury under whose jurisdiction it seems to have formerly been would solve the difficulty but if that will not do I find none of the Bishop's names about that time beginning with G. If we preserve the reading Glevum or Glocester offers it self fairest which tho' annex'd at times to Lichfield and Worcester seems notwithstanding to have had the title of a Bishop's See z As for the place's being fortified by Robert Bishop of Constance it is a mistake for Geofry as appears from Bishop Godwyn in his Catalogue of Bishops under the title Exon. And Osborn in his Chronicon Juridiciale at the year 1072. tells us that Geofrey Bishop of Constance was the Chief Justiciary of England in that notable cause between Lanfranck Archbishop of Canterbury and Odo Bishop of Bayeux 'T is possible the name of Mowbrey Earl of Northumberland who was nephew to the Bishop and his name Robert might lead our Author into an error aa The castle which our Author tells us was built here by Robert Rufus Consul of Glocester is now quite demolish'd and built into a street aaa The honour of this place has been encreas'd by giving the title of Earl to John Lord Digby of Shirburn created 20 Jac. 1. to whom succeeded in the same honour George his son and John his grandson bb Mr. Camden makes the Diamonds of S. Vincent's rock admirable for th●ir six corners but if we may trust our Naturalists they assure us that 't is not worthy of admiration since very often Crystals and Berills and even sometimes your common Sparrs in many parts of England as well as elsewhere are of that figure cc And thus Avon passes into the Severn-sea tho' before we leave it it may not be improper to observe that it furnishes Bristol at the vernal equinox or then abouts with a dish perhaps not to be met with elsewhere which they call Elvers Elvers Some time in the spring the river about Cainsham is yearly cover'd over and colour'd black with millions of little eels scarce so big as a goose quill tho' some would have them a particular species These with small nets they skim up in great numbers and by a particular way of ordering them make them skower off their skins Being thus stripp'd and looking very white they make them up into little Cakes which they fry and so eat Continuation of the DUKES By the attainder of Edward Duke of Somerset that title lay vacant for a long time only Sir Robert Carr Knight of the Bath was by the favour of King James 1. created Earl of Somerset who falling under disgrace upon the account of Sir Thomas Overbury's death and having only a daughter that honour was at an end Upon the restoration of King Charles 2. William Seymour Marquess of Hertford was for his eminent services restor'd to the title of Duke of Somerset and was succeeded by William grandchild by Henry his third son William and Robert the two elder brothers dying unmarry'd William dy'd unmarry'd and had for his successor John Lord Seymour his Uncle who dy'd without issue Whereupon this title was devolv'd upon Sir Francis Seymour the third son to Edward Lord Beauchamp son and heir to Edward Earl of Hertford whose posterity now enjoys it More rare Plants growing wild in Somersetshire Aria
of the Cistercian Order That part of it which is now standing is a farm-house belonging to my Lord of Leicester from whom many noble persons still remain Echingham next adjoyning had also a Baron in the time of K. Edward 2. Baron Echingham William de Echingham whose ancestors were * Seneschalli Stewards of this Rape But the Inheritance by heirs females came to the Barons of Windsor and the Tirwhitts Then the Rother dividing his waters into 3 chanels Robertsbridge or Rotherbridge Bodiam passes under Robertsbridge where in the reign of Hen. 2. Alured de St. Martin founded a Monastery m Call'd S. Mary's of Robertbridge and of the Cistercian Order That part of it which is now standing is a farm-house belonging to my Lord of Leicester and so running by Bodiam a Castle belonging to the ancient and famous family of the Lewkneys built by the Dalegrigs here falls into the sea Now I have pass'd along the sea-coast of Sussex As for the Mediterranean parts there is nothing worth taking notice of unless I shou'd reckon up the Woods and Forests of great extent both in length and breadth the remains of the vast and famous wood Anderida Among which to begin at the west the most noted are these the Forest of Arundel S. Leonard's Forest Word Forest 31 And not far off East-Grensted anciently a parcel of the Barony of Eagle and made a Market by King Henry 7. Ashdown Forest under which lies Buckhurst Baron Backhur●t the seat of the ancient family of the Sackvils of which Q Elizabeth in our memory advanced Thomas Sackvil 32 Her Alley by the Bullens a Gentleman of great wisdom to be Baron of Buckhurst took him into her Privy Council elected him into the most honorable Order of the Garter and made him Lord Treasurer of England whom also of late K. James created Earl of Dorset Waterdown Forest 33 Where I saw Bridge a lodge of the Lord Abergavenny and by it craggy rocks rising up so thick as tho' sporting Nature had there purposed a sea Hereby in the very confines of Kent is Groomebridge an habitation of the Wallers whose House there was built by Charles Duke of Orleans father to K. L●wis 12. of France when he being taken Prisoner in the Battel at Agincourt by Richard Waller of this place was here a long time detained Prisoner and that of Dallington the least of all Earls of Sussex See the E●●ls ●f Arundel Sussex has had 5 Earls of the family of D'Aubeney who were likewise called Earls of Arundel 34 the first of them was William D'Aubeney the son of William Butler to King Hen. 1. and Lord of Buckenham in Norfolk who gave for his Arms Gules a Lion rampant Or and was call'd sometimes Earl of Arundel and sometimes Earl of Chichester because in those places he kept his chief residence He had by Adeliza daughter of Godfrey Barbatus Duke of Lorrain and Brabant Queen Dowager to King Hen. 1. William the 2d Earl of Sussex and Arundel Father of William the 3d. Earl unto whom Mabil sister and one of the heirs of the last Ranulph Earl of Chester bore William the 4th Earl and Hugh the 5th Earl who both died issueless and also 4 Daughters married to Robert Lord of Tateshall John Fitz-Alan Roger de Somery and Robert de Mount-hault Afterwards the title of Arundel sprouted forth again as I said before in the Fitz-Alans But that of Sussex lay as it were forgotten and lost till our age which hath seen 5 Ratcliffs descended of the most noble house of the Fitz-Walters that fetch'd their original from the Clares bearing that honour viz. Robert created Earl of Sussex by K. Hen. 8. 21 H●●t who married Elizabeth daughter of Henry Stafford Duke of Buckingham by whom he had Henry the 2d Earl to whom Eliz. the daughter of Tho. Howard Duke of Norfolk bore Thomas who was Lord Chamberlain to Queen Elizabeth and dy'd without issue a Heroe of very great worth and honour in whose mind were joyntly seated both the wisdom of a Statesman and the courage of a Soldier as England and Ireland had reason to acknowledge Henry his brother succeeded him after Henry Robert his only son an honourable young Gentleman who now enjoys the Earldom This County contains 312 Parishes So much for Sussex which together with Surrey was the seat of the Regni afterwards the Kingdom of the South-Saxons The kingdom of the South-Saxons called in Saxon † The true reading is Suth-seaxna ric Suþ-seaxan-ric which 31 years after the coming in of the Saxons was begun by Aella who according to Bede First amongst the Kings of the English Nation ruled all their southern Provinces which are sever'd by the River Humber and the adjacent limits The first Christian King was Edilwalch baptiz'd in the presence of Wulpher King of Mercia his Godfather who gave him in token of adoption two Provinces the Isle of Wight and the Province of the Meanvari But in the 306th year from the beginning of this Kingdom upon Aldinius the last King 's being slain by Ina it came wholly under the Dominion of the West-Saxons ADDITIONS to SVSSEX a THE County of Sussex as in the north part it still abounds with wood so as our Author observes the greatest part of it seems to have been formerly in the same condition For I can never believe but that vast Weald being 30 miles in breadth and beginning in the south part of Kent must in it's way to Hamshire take up a considerable tract of this Shire And if so we may inferr from hence this account of it that the inhabitants could be but very few and thin-plac'd for a long time Which is plain from the two * Lambard Perambulat p. 224. Somner's Forts and Forts p. 107. Kentish Antiquaries affirming that for a great while the whole Weald was scarce any thing else besides a desert and vast wilderness not planted with towns or peopl d with men but stuff'd with herds of deer and droves of hogs only Which account may be very rationally grounded upon this bottom that no part of the Weald appears by the several Grants to have been let out by the King the only Lord and Proprietor of it in Manours but in so many Dens which imply'd only a woody place yielding covert and feeding for cattel and that there is no other use of them express'd but only Pannage for hogs From which hint is gather'd the primitive state of the greatest part of this County b In after times our Author observes among other things that they dea●t in the Glass-trade Put that lasted not long for whether it was that it turn'd to little account or that they found themselves out-vy'd by other places there are now no Glass-houses in the whole County At present as in our Author's time they are most famous for the Iron-works which are in several places of this County some whereof have both
who by his wife Margaret eldest daughter and coheir of Richard Earl of Dorset having six sons Nicholas John Richard Thomas Sackvill and George and dying May 7. 1664. ‖ Dudg Bar. vol. 2. p. 454. has been already succeeded by four of them his fourth son Thomas a person of great honour and vertue being now Earl of Thanet aa Southward stands the Rutupiae or Rutupium Rutupium which whether it was the same with the Portus Rutupensis Rutupiae statio or the old Reptimouth is a question * Ports and Forts p. 3. 4. Mr. Somner 't is plain would have them two places contrary to the opinion of Leland Lambard and Camden wherein in the general I can willingly agree with him but can by no means think our Portus Rutupensis could ever be Sandwich but rather Stonar which he himself allows to have been an ancient Port. I acknowledge Sandwich lyes well nigh as near to the old Rutupium as Stonar does and consequently might as deservedly have assum'd the name of Portus Rutupensis as Stonar could had it had the same conveniencies in point of situation for such a purpose as Stonar once had which I dare vouch it was the road where the ships lay that came ad urbem Rutupiae as Ptolemy calls it that was a little mile higher in the Country just as Leith in Scotland is the Port to Edenbugh and Topsham in England to Exeter And this too was afterward the Lundenwic or Port to which all such as traded either to London from forreign parts or from London into forreign parts had their chief resort bb And yet we must not deny but that Sandwich is an ancient Town tho' daughter to these it being mention'd † Ibid. p. 15. says Somner in one of the Chartularies of the Church of Canterbury in the year 979. But the ‖ Chron. Sax. Saxon Chronicle tells us that above a hundred years before Aethelstan King of Kent and a certain Duke call'd Ealcher overthrew the Danes in a Sea-fight at dondpic in Kent from which time it grew greater and greater upon the decay of Richborough and Stonar till the days of Edward the Confessor when at the first institution of the Cinque Ports which now are it was thought fitter to be esteem'd one of the five than Stonar then was Since when it has still retain'd that title being the second port in order and has always been esteem'd a Town of trade and repute which of late has been increas'd by affording an honourable title to that great Seaman Edward Mountague Esq who having gotten the sole Command of the English Fleet in the late Usurpation with singular prudence so wrought upon the Seamen that they peaceably deliver'd up the whole Fleet to King Charles 2. for which signal service he was July 12. 12 Car. 2. advanc'd to the honours of Lord Mountague of S. Neots Viscount Hinchingbrook and Earl of Sandwich who dying at Sea 28 May 1672. was succeeded in his honours by his eldest son Edward who is now Earl of Sandwich cc. Next is Dover Dover where some part of the Pharus or Lighthouse which stood on the hill over against the Castle is yet remaining now vulgarly call'd Bredenstone Here the Lord Wardens of the Cinque Ports since Shipway has been antiquated have been of late sworn and indeed most of the other business relating to the Ports in general is done here Here are all the Courts kept and from hence is the most frequent passage out of England into France which has render'd it famous throughout the world and the more by having given of late the title of Earl to the right honourable Henry Lord Hunsdon Viscount Rochfort † Dugd Bar. vol. 2. p. 398. who on the 8th of March 3 Car. 1. was advanced to the title of Earl of Dover He dying about the year 1666. was succeeded by his son John who dying the year following without issue male this title lay extinguish'd till it was revived again by King James in the person of the honourable Hen. Jermin Esq Nephew to the right honourable Henry Earl of St. Albans who was created Baron of Dover May 13. 1685. 2 Jac. 2. dd Southwestward from hence on the same shore lies the town of Hithe and not far from it a most noble antiquity now call'd Stutfall Castle which no question was the ancient Portus Lemanis for very good reasons brought by our Author though † Ports and Forts p. 38. Mr. Somner alledges the contrary He allows it indeed to have been a Roman Fort but by no means the old Portus Lemanis that lying according to all the Copies of the Itinerary 16 miles from Canterbury whereas Stutfall is but 14 about the same distance says he that Dover is from it wherefore he rather supposes that there was a mistake in the Librarians in setting a V for an X and that the distance indeed should have been XXI which sets it about Romney the place he would have to be the true Portus Lemanis But this conjecture puts it more out of distance than before and 't is a much easier mistake in the Librarians to transpose a V and an I which sets it in true distance again according to Mr. Somner himself viz. at XIV and no more Or to admit of no mistake in the Librarians at all if we set Lyme as ‖ Ibid. p. 37. our Author says at the same distance from Canterbury that Dover is which is 15 miles and the lower side of Stutfall Castle where the port must be near a mile below Lyme as really it is and allowing too that the Roman miles are somewhat less than the English we shall bring it again in true distance at XVI miles without carrying it to Romney which in all probability in those days lay under water at least in Spring-tides or if not so the Marsh certainly did 'twixt Stutfall and Romney which they could never pass nor did they ever attempt it for we find the Roman way ends here as 't was necessary it should since it could not well be carry'd on further thro' a Marsh or rather sea 8 miles together for so far 't is hence to the town of Romney ddd West whereof at about 8 miles more distance stands the town of Apledore upon a rising ground which in the time of the Saxons An. 894. stood at the mouth of the river Limene as their * An. 894. Chronicle tells us whence 't is plain that Romney or at least Walland-Marsh was then all a sea for we never put the mouth of a river but at it's entrance into the sea now if the sea came so lately as An. 894. to the town of Apledore in all probability 500 years before in the Romans time it might come as far as Newenden where Mr. Selden and our Author have placed the City and Castle of Anderida erected here by the Romans to repell the Saxon rovers the sea here in all ages having retired by degrees I know
† Ports and Forts pag. 104 105. Mr. Somner rather inclines to believe that either Hastings or Pemsey on the coast of Sussex must have been the old Anderida founding his opinion upon what Gildas says concerning these Ports and Forts viz. that they were placed in littore oceani ad meridiem but I suppose this ought to be understood in a large sense every thing being to be taken for sea whither such vessels could come as they had in those days in which sense no doubt Newenden might be accounted a sea-town and liable to such Pyrates as the Saxons were as well as either Pemsey or Hastings Continuation of the EARLS The last Earl of Kent whom our Author mentions dying without issue An. 1625. was succeeded by his brother Charles who by his wife Susan daughter of Sir Rich. Cotton of Hampshire had issue Henry who dying without issue An. 1639. the honour by reason of the entail upon the heir male descended to Anthony Grey Rector of Burbach in the County of Leicester son of George son of Anthony Grey of Barnspeth third son to George Grey the second Earl of Kent of this family which Anthony by Magdalen his wife daughter of William Purefoy of Caldico● in Com. Warwick Esq had 5 sons and 4 daughters whereof Henry the eldest son succeeded in the Honour and wedded Mary the daughter of Sir Anthony Ben by whom he had issue Henry who dy'd young and Anthony now Earl of Kent More rare Plants growing wild in Kent Acinos Anglicum Clus pan Acinos Dioscoridis fortè ejusdem in Hist Acin Anglica Clusii Park Clinopodium 3. seu Ocimi facie alterum C. B. Clinopodium 4. Ger. emac. English wild Basil This grows in chalky mountainous barren and gravelly grounds not only in Kent where Clusius found it but in many other Counties of England I take it to be only a variety of the common Acinos or Stone Basil differing in having a thicker even-edged or not-indented leaf The Herb-Women were wont formerly to sell this Plant for Poley-mountain at London I suppose now they are better informed Adiantum album Offic. Tab. Cam. Ruta muraria Ger. J. B. C. B. Ruta muraria sive Salvia vitae Park White Maidenhair Wall-Rue Tentwort This grows in many places on old stone walls and in the chinks of rocks as in this County on Rochester-bridge on the walls of Sir Robert Barnham's house at Bocton Munchelsey at Cobham where all the houses are covered with it P. B. on Ashford-bridge and at Darford Park † Alcea minor Park The lesser Vervain-mallow Parkinson for Synonyma of this gives Alcea Matthioli Tragi which others make synonymes of the common greater Vervain-mallow He tells us also that it grows in some places of Kent but names no particular ones Now Kent is a large spot of ground to seek out a plant in Alchimilla Ger. vulgaris C. B. major vulgaris Park Pes leonis sive Alchimilla J. B. Ladies mantle This is found frequently growing in mountainous meadows and pastures especially in the North of England where by the common people it is called Bears-foot It grows also in the southern parts but more rarely I have found it in some pastures near my own dwelling in Essex and therefore can easily believe Parkinson that it may be found at Kingswood nigh Feversham and elsewhere in Kent Alga fontalis trichodes C. B. Alga sive Conserva fontalis trichodes Park Trichomanes aquaticum Dalechampii J. B. Water Maidenhair I happened to find this plant in the cistern or conduit-house at Leeds Abbey in Kent belonging then to Sir William Meredith howbeit I do not think it peculiar to Kent but common to the like places all England over tho' it hath not yet been my hap to meet with it elsewhere Alopecuros altera maxima Anglica paludosa Ger. emac. altera maxima Anglica paludosa sive Gramen Alopecuroides maximum J. B. Lob. Adv. part alt Alopec maxima Anglica Park Great English Marsh Fox-tail grass In the salt marsh by Eriffe Church P. B. † Alsine Cochleariae longae facie nondum descripta P. B. Chickweed resembling the long-leaved Scurvy-grass Between the two Parks at Eltham on the mud What Plant the Authors of Phytologia Britannica meant by this name I cannot easily divine Some have thought that they intended Alfine longifolia uliginosis proveniens locis J. B. However no man that I have heard of hath as yet been able to discover any non-descript plant thereabout † Alsine corniculata Clusii Ger. J. B. Park Lychnis segetum minor C. B. Horned Chickweed This is a sort of Mouse-ear Chickweed and no Campion as C. Bauhine would have it In Westgate Bay in the Isle of Thanet P. B. I do not believe that ever it grew there unless in some garden or of seed accidentally shed It s natural place is in Spain among corn The same Authors of Phyt. Brit. tell us that Anchusa lutea is also to be found in the same Isle I believe as much as the former Anagallis aquatica rotundifolia Ger. aquat rotundifolia non crenata C. B. aquat 3. Lobelii folio subrotundo non crenato Park Samolus valerandi J. B. Round-leaved Water-Pimpernell This herb growing in many watery and marsh grounds and about little rivulets and springs in most Counties of England I should not have mentioned as a peculiar of Kent but that it is no very common plant and others have assigned places to it in this County In the Salt marshes two miles below Gravesend P. B. Anagallis foemina Ger. coerulea foemina J. B. terrestris coeruleo flore C. B. Park Female or blue-flower'd Pimpernell This may likely enough be found in Rumney-marsh as Parkinson tells us We have observed it among the corn in other places of England but more sparingly beyond seas it 's more plentiful in some Countries than the red However I take it to be not a distinct species but an accidental variety of Pimpernel differing only in the colour of the flower Armeria sylvestris altera calyculo foliolis fastigiatis cincto Lob. Caryophyllus pratensis Ger. pratensis noster major minor Park barbatus sylvestris C. B. Viola barbata angustifolia Dalechampii J. B. Deptford pink This is so called either because it grows plentifully in the pastures about Deptford or because it was there first taken notice of by our Herbarists 'T is not peculiar to Kent but common to many other Counties in meadows and pastures especially where the ground is sandy or gravelly Atriplex maritima laciniata C. B. maritima J. B. marina Ger. marina repens Lob. Park Jagged Sea-Orrache At Queenborough and Margate in the Isle of Thanet and in many other places on the sandy shores Ger. Though I have not observed it in these places yet I believe it may there be found as well as on the coasts of Essex Brassica arborea seu procerior ramosa maritima Morison An Brassica rubra vulgaris J. B Perennial tree-Colewort or Cabbage On the chalky cliffes at Dover
dark stars with her refulgent train There Earth and Ocean their embraces join Here Ganges Danube Thermadon and Rhine And fruitful Nile in costly sculpture shine Above the rest Great Britain sits in state With golden fleeces cloath'd and crown'd with wheat And Gallick spoils lye trampled at her feet c. Here awful Isis fills his liquid throne Isis whom British streams their monarch own His never-wearied hands a spatious urn Down on his azure bosom gravely turn And flaggs and reeds his unpoll'd locks adorn Each waving horn the subject stream supplies And grateful light darts from his shining eyes His grizzly beard all wet hangs dropping down And gushing veins in wat'ry chanels run The little fish in joyful numbers crowd And silver swans fly o'er the crystal flood And clap their snowy wings c. Now as to what relates to the Earls of Glocester Earls of G●ocester some have obtruded upon us William Fitz-Eustace for the first Earl Who this was I have not yet met with in my reading and l believe there was never such an one extant kk but what I have found I will not conceal from the Reader 'T is said that about the Norman Invasion one Bithrick a Saxon was Lord of Glocester Hist Monast against whom Maud the wife of William the Norman was highly exasperated Tewkesbury for the contempt of her beauty for he refus'd to marry her and so maliciously contrived his ruin and when he was cast into prison his estate was granted by the Conquerour to Robert the son of Haimon of Curboyle in Normandy commonly call'd Fitz-Haimon Fitz. Haimon who receiving a blow on the head with a Pole Guil. Malm. lived a great while raving and distracted His daughter Mabel by others call'd Sybil was married to Robert natural son of King Henry 1. who was made first Earl of Glocester and by the common writers of that age is call'd Consul of Glocester a man above all others in those times of a great and undaunted spirit that was never dismay'd by misfortunes and performed heroick and difficult actions with mighty honour in the cause of his sister Maud against Stephen the usurper of the crown of England His son William succeeded in the honour 31 Who dejected with comfortless grief when death had deprived him of his only son and heir assured his estate with his eldest daughter to John son to K. Henry 2. with certaine proviso's for his other daughters whose 3 daughters conveyed the dignity to so many families † John when he had obtained the kingdom repudiated her upon pretences as well that she was barren as that they were within prohibited degrees of consanguinity and reserving the castle of Bristow to himself after some time passed over his repudiated wife with the honour of Glocester to Geoffrey Mandevile son of Geoffrey Fitz-Peter Earl of Essex for 20000 marks who thus over marrying himself was greatly impoverished and wounded in Tournament died soon after without issue she being re-married to Hubert of Burgh died immediately The eldest Isabella brought this title to John the son of K. Henry 2. but when he had possessed himself of the throne he procured a divorce from her and sold her for 20000 marks to Geoffry de Mandeville son of Geoffry son of Peter Earl of Essex Pat. 15. Joan. R. 4. and created him Earl of Glocester He being dead without issue Almaric † Ebroicensis son to the Earl of Eureux had this honour conferred upon him as being born of Mabil 32 The eldest the youngest daughter of Earl William aforesaid But Almaric dying also childless the honour descended to Amicia the second daughter who being married to Richard de Clare Earl of Hertford was mother to Gilbert de Clare Earl of Glocester 33 Who was stiled Earl of Glocester and Hertford and mightily enrich'd his house by marrying one of the heirs of William Marshall Earl of Pembroke His son and successor Richard in the beginning of the Barons Wars against K. Hen. 3. ended his life having Gilbert his son to succeed him who powerfully and prudently swayed much in the said wars as he inclined to them or the King He obnoxious to K. Edw. 1. surrendred his lands unto him and received them again by marrying Joan the King's daughter sirnamed of Acres in the Holy Land b●cause she was there born to his second wife who bore unto him Gilbert Clare last Earl of Glocester of this sirname slain in the flower of his youth in Scotland at the battel of Sterling in the sixth year of K. Edw. 2. Earls of Glocester and Hertford whose son Richard and his grandson Gilbert 2. and great grandson Gilbert 3. who fell in the battel at Sterling in Scotland successively inherited this title But in the minority of Gilbert 3. 34 Sir Ralph Ralph de Montehemer who did clandestinely espouse the widow of Gilbert 2. and * Call'd Jeanna D'Acres because born at Acon daughter of Edward 1. 35 For which he incurred the King's high displeasure and a short imprisonment but after reconciled was summoned to Parliaments by the name of Earl of Glocester and Hertford But when Gilbert was out of his minority he was summoned among the Barons by the name of Sir Ralph de Mont-hermer as long as he lived which I note more willingly for the rareness of the example for some time enjoy'd the title of Earl of Glocester But when Gilbert had arrived at the age of 21 years he claimed the title and was call'd to serve in Parliament amongst the Barons After Gilbert 3. who died childless 36 Sir Hugh Le de Spencer Hugh de Spencer or Spencer jun. is by writers stiled Earl of Glocester in right of his wife who was the eldest sister of Gilbert 3. But he being hang'd by the Queen and her Lords in despight to Edward 2. Tho. de la Marc in the life of Ed. 2. whose Favourite he was 37 Sir Hugh Audley Hugh de Audley who married the other sister by the favour of Edward 3. obtained the honour After whose death King Richard 2. erected this title into a Dukedom of which there were three Dukes with one Earl between and to them all it was unfortunate and fatal and brought them to their ruin Thomas of Woodstock Earl of Buckingham the youngest son of King Edward 3. Dukes of Glocester was the first that was dignify'd with the title of Duke but presently fell into the displeasure of King Richard 2. for being an ambitious man of an unquiet spirit he was surprised and sent to Calais and there smothered he with a Feather-bed having before made a confession under his hand as appears in the Parliament Rolls that by virtue of a Patent which he had extorted from the King he had arrogated to himself Regal Authority appear'd armed in the King's presence contumeliously revil'd him consulted with learned men how he might renounce his Allegiance and
they hanged him upon a tree 39 For in a reverent awe of the Church they durst not bury him because he died excommunicated To him succeeded his 2 sons 40 Geoffrey his son who was restored by Hen. 2. to his father's Honours and Estate for him and his heirs William who by his wife was also Earl of Albemarle Geoffrey and William both taken off without issue Afterwards K. John in consideration of a good sum of money 〈◊〉 Pierz 〈◊〉 F●●z-●●●re promoted Geoffrey Fitz-Pierz L. Ch. Justice a very prudent and grave man to this dignity He had took to wife Beatrice eldest daughter to William de Say descended from the sister of Geoffrey de Magnavil first Earl of Essex A great mony'd man saith an old Author and very rich who with a round sum of money and many entreaties made his application to the Bishop of Ely the King's Justice and laid claim to this Earldom in right of his wife daughter of William brother to Geoffry de Say eldest son by an hereditary title Who admitted him into full seizin thereof and demanded the promis'd sum which he receiv'd within a little time to put into the King's Exchequer He being thus admitted and confirm'd by the King's Letters Patents held and possess'd this honour and receiv'd the Homage of those that held of him by Knight's service 41 And so was girt with the sword of the Earldom of Essex by King John at the solemnity of his Coronation This Geoffrey Fiz-Petre was advanced to the high Estate of Justicer of England by King Richard 1. when he removed Hubert Archbishop of Canterbury from that office by the Pope's peremptory command for that Bishops ought not to intermeddle in secular affairs This place the said Geoffrey Fitz-Petre executed with great commendation preserving by his wisdom the Realm from that confusion which it after fell into by King John's unadvised carriage Geoffrey and William the two sons of this Geoffrey Fitz-Piers taking the sirname of Magnavil or Mandevil enjoy'd this honour The former of these 42 By his wife was Earl of Glocester also and c. died young Register of Walden-Abbey being unfortunately kill'd at a publick Tilting The other took part with Prince Lewis of France against King John and died without issue So that the honour now fell to 43 Their sisters son Humfrey de Bohun Earl of Hereford and Constable of England For thus writes the Chronologer of Walton-Abbey In the year 1228. the 6th of the Ides of January William de Mandevil Earl of Essex died c. In the same year Humfrey de Bohun Earl of Hereford the Constable of England espoused Maud daughter to Geoffrey Earl of Essex and so succeeded in that honour But from the Archives it is evident that Henry de Bohun father to this Humfrey married the said heiress And such a mistake might easily creep in for in the Writers of that age the Christian-names are only marked with great Letters as See the Earls of Hereford H. for Henry or Humfrey G. for Gilbert or Geoffrey c. Of this family the male heirs succeeded in the dignity of Earls of Hereford and Essex for several years whom I have already reckon'd up among the Earls of Hereford because they wrote themselves Earls of Hereford and Essex Eleanor eldest daughter to the last of the Bohuns given in marriage with the honour to Thomas de Woodstock Duke of Glocester had by him one daughter Anne first married to Edmund Earl of Stafford from whom sprang the Dukes of Buckingham and then to 44 Sir William William Bourgchier to whom K. Henry 5. gave the County of Ewe in Normandy This last had by her a son of his own name advanced to the dignity of Earl of Essex by Edw. 4. 45 In regard he had married his Aunt and was descended from Thomas of Woodstock He was succeeded by another Henry his son's son who died in his old age by a fall from his horse leaving issue only one daughter Anne who being laid aside King Henry 8. that he might make new additions to his honours and preferments created Thomas Cromwell who had been his main assistant in baffling the Pope's authority at the same time Earl of Essex High Chamberlain of England and Knight of the Garter Before this for his extraordinary prudence he had made him Master of the Rolls Secretary of State Baron Cromwell of Okeham Vicar General to the King in spiritual concerns and Lord Keeper and all this in five years time But after five months enjoyment of his Earldom he like most great favourites in the State concluded his scene of life with a most tragical end losing his head for treason The same King promoted to the Earldom of Essex 46 Sir William William Par to whom he had given in marriage Anne the only daughter and heir of Henry Bourgchier But he too at last dying without issue Walter Devreux Viscount Hereford whose great grandmother was Cicely Bourgchier sister to Henry Bourgchier of whom we spoke but now receiv'd the honour of Earl of Essex by the favour of Queen Elizabeth and left it to his son Robert who being for his excellent natural endowments highly in favour with that admirable Princess sail'd with such a smooth and prosperous gale into honours and preferments as to make it the common hope and expectation of the Kingdom that he would equal if not exceed the greatest characters of his Ancestors But at last being carried away with vain ambition and popularity and endeavouring to get the start of his own hopes he hurried himself into a sad destruction As several persons who condemn slow methods though secure choose sudden ones to their utter ruin But his young son Robert was restor'd to full possession of his father's honour by authority of Parliament through the special favour of our present most Serene Soveraign King James There are reckoned in this County 415 Parish-Churches ADDITIONS to ESSEX a THE County of Essex is so bounded with waters that by the help of the Ocean on one side and Rivers on others it makes a Peninsula As to Viscountile Jurisdiction it seems formerly to have been annext to Hertfordshire for in the 8th of Edward 3. John de Cogshall was Sheriff of them both about which time also one Escheator discharg'd the office in both b Our Author begins with Waltham-forrest Waltham-forrest which might very well be call d as he observes the Forrest of Essex reaching formerly through this County as far as the Sea * Norden's Essex MS. as appeareth by Edward the Confessor's gift to one Randolph Peperkin It still is so large as to thrust it self out into a great many Hundreds c Near the Thames is Leyton Leyton where Mr. Camden is enclin'd to settle the Durolitum Durolitum of Antoninus though he professes himself altogether at a loss for the places mention'd hereabouts by the Ancients And 't is no wonder that
a petty Convent founded by the Bigrames A little way hence stands Awkenbury given by King John to David Earl of Huntingdon and by John Scot his son to Stephen Segrave Stephen Segr●●e a person I 'm the more willing to mention because he was one of the Courtiers who have taught us * N●●●am poten●●am ess●●●●●nt●m That no power is powerful With a great deal of pains he rais'd himself to a high post with as much trouble kept it and as suddenly lost it In his young days from a Clerk he was made Knight Matth. P●●● and tho' he was but of a mean family yet in his latter days by his bold industry he so enrich'd and advanc'd himself that he was rank'd among the highest of the Nobility made Lord Chief Justice and manag'd almost all the Affairs of the Nation as he pleas'd At length he wholly lost all the King's favour and ended his days in a cloyster and he who out of pride must needs remove from ecclesiastical to secular Affairs was forc'd to reassume his ecclesiastical Office and shaven crown without so much as consulting his Bishop which he had formerly laid aside Not far off stands Leighton Leight●n where Sir Gervase Clifton Knight began a noble building h and just by lyes Spaldwick given to the Church of Lincoln by Henry 1. to make some amends for erecting Ely-Bishoprick out of Lincoln-Diocese The river Nen enters this Shire by Elton Elton f It is now the possession of John Proby Esquire the seat of the famous ancient family of the Sapcots where is a private Chapel of singular beauty with curious painted windows built by the Lady Elizabeth Dinham Baron Fitz-Warren's widow who marry'd into this family Higher upon the Nen nigh Walmsford Walmsford stood a little city of greater antiquity than all these call'd Caer Dorm and Dormeceaster by Henry of Huntingdon who says it was utterly ruin'd before his time Undoubtedly this is the Durobrivae D●●●bri●ae of Antonine that is the River-passage and now for the same reason call'd Dornford nigh Chesterton which besides the finding of old Coins has the apparent marks of a ruinous City For a Roman Port-way led directly from hence to Huntingdon and a little above Stilton Sti●ton formerly Stichilton it appears with a high bank and in an old Saxon Charter is call'd Erminstreat Ermi●gstreat Here it runs through the middle of a square fort defended on the north-side with walls on the rest with ramparts of Earth nigh which they 've lately digg'd up several stone Coffins or Sepulchres in g This Estate is now the joynt Inheritance of Sir John Hewet of Warsly in this County Baronet and John Dryden Esquire descended to them from the sisters of the last Sir Robert Bevile the ground of R. Bevill of an ancient family in this County Some think this city stood upon both banks of the river and others are of opinion Caster 〈◊〉 N●r ●●●pto●sh● e that the little village Caster on the other side was part of it and truly this opinion is well back'd by an ancient history that says there was a place call'd Durmundcaster by Nene where Kinneburga founded a little Nunnery first call'd Kinneburge-caster and afterwards for shortness Caster This Kinneburga the most Christian daughter of the Pagan King Penda and Alfred King of the Northumber's wife chang'd her Soveraign Authority for Christ's service to use the words of an old writer and govern'd her own Nunnery as a mother to those sacred Virgins Which place about 1010 was level'd to the ground by the fury of the Danes A little before this river leaves the County it runs by an ancient House call'd Bottle bridge B ●●●●-bridge for shortness instead of Botolph-bridge which the Draitons and Lovets brought from R. Gimels to the family of the Shirlies by hereditary succession Adjoyning to this lies Overton corruptly called Orton forfeited by Felony and redeem'd of K. John by Neale Lovetoft whose sister and coheir was married to Hubert or Robert de Brounford and their children took upon 'em the name of Lovetoft Earls of H●ntingdon This County at the declining of the English-Saxons had Siward an Earl by office for then there were no hereditary Earls in England but the Governours of Provinces according to the custom of that age were call'd Earls with addition of the title of this or that Province they govern'd as this Siward the time he govern'd here was call'd Earl of Huntingdon but soon after when he govern'd Northumberland he was call'd Earl of Northumberland See ●he E●●ls ●f No●thamptonshire He had a son call'd Waldeof who under the title of Earl had the government of this County by the favour of William the Conquerour whose niece Judith by his sister on the mother's side he had married This Waldeof's eldest daughter says William Gemeticensis was married to Simon ‖ ●●vane●●er●● 〈◊〉 u●t c●p ●6 de Senlys or St. Liz she brought him the Earldom of Huntingdon and had a son by him call'd Simon After her husband's decease she was married to David St. Maud the Queen of England's Brother who was afterwards King of Scotland by whom she had a son nam'd Henry Afterwards as Fortune and Princes Favours alter'd this Dignity was enjoy'd sometimes by the Scots and other times by the St. Lizes first Henry the son of David J ●n ●●rd●● in Scot●●●●n co l. 3. ● 3. 6. 〈◊〉 3● then Simon St. Lizes Simon the first 's son after him Malcolm King of Scotland Earl Henry's brother after his decease Simon St. Liz the third who dying without heirs was succeeded by William King of Scotland and Malcolm's Brother Thus says Ralph de Diceto in the year 1185. when he flourish'd When Simon Earl Simon 's son dy'd without children the King restor'd to William K. of Scotland the County of Huntingdon with all its appurtenances Then his brother David had it Matth. Par. and his son John Scot Earl of Chester who dy'd without heirs and when Alexander the second who marry'd King Henry the third's daughter had held this title a little while and the Wars broke in the Scots lost this honour besides a fair inheritance in England A good while after Edward the third created William Clinton Earl of Huntingdon Richard the second put Guiscard de Angolesme in his place and after his death John Holland He was succeeded by John 4 Who was stil'd Duke of Excester Earl of Huntingdon and Ivory Lord of Sparre Admiral of England and Ireland Lieutenant of Aquitain and Constable of the Tower of London and Henry his sons who were each of them also Dukes of Exeter See Dukes of Exeter pag. 32. Cap. 50. The same Henry Duke of Exeter that Philip Comines as he affirms saw begging bare-foot in the Low Countries whilst he kept firm to the House of Lancaster though he had married Edward the fourth 's own sister Next to him Thomas
College here A little higher upon Watlingstreet for so this Military way of the Romans is vulgarly call'd where there is a bridge of stone over the river Anker Manduessedum Manduessedum is seated a town of very great antiquity mention'd by Antoninus which having not yet altogether lost its name is call'd Mancester Mancester and in Ninnius's Catalogue Caer Mancegued Which name since a quarry of free-stone lies near it 't is probable was given it from the stone there digg'd and hew'd For in the Glossaries of the British tongue we learn that Main signifies a stone and Fosswad in the Provincial language digging which being joyn'd together seem aptly enough to express the name Manduessedum u But how great or of what note soever it was in those times 't is now a poor little village containing not above fourteen small houses and hath no other monument of Antiquity to shew but an old Fort which they call Old-bury i.e. an old Burrough w Atherston on the one side a well-frequented market where the Church of the 14 Augustine Friers Friers was converted into a Chapel which nevertheless acknowledges that of Mancester to be the Mother Church and Nonn-eaton on the other side have by their nearness reduc'd Mancester to what you see it Neighbour to Atherston is Meri-val Merival i.e. Merry-vale where Robert de Ferrers built and dedicated a Monastery to God and the blessed Virgin in which his body wrapp'd up in an Ox-hide lies interr'd Beyond these Northward lies Pollesworth Pollesworth where Modwena an Irish virgin fam'd for her wonderful piety built a Nunnery which Robert Marmion a Nobleman who had his castle in the neighbourhood at Stippershull repair'd x Hard by also in the Saxon times flourish'd a town of which there appear now but very small remains call'd Secandunum at this time Seckinton Seckinton where Aethelbald King of the Mercians in a civil war was assassinated by Bcornred Chron. Sax. Beared in the year 749 but in a little time he was cut off by King Offa by the same means falling from the throne by which he had impiously got it y To close the whole I must now give you a Catalogue of the Earls of Warwick Earls of Warwick And to pass over Guar Morindus Guy that Echo of England and many more of that stamp which the fruitful wits of those times brought forth at one birth Henry son of Roger de Bellomonte brother of Robert Earl of Mellent was the first Earl of the Norman race who marry'd Margaret daughter of Aernulph de Hesdin Earl of Perch a person of mighty power and authority Of this family there were who bore that honour Roger son of Henry William son of Roger who dy'd in the 30th of King Henry the second Walleran his brother Henry son of Walleran● Thomas his son who dy'd without issue in the 26th of Henry the third and his sister Margery surviving was Countess of Warwick and dy'd childless Her two husbands nevertheless first John Mareschal Pla●●●3 Rot ●34 then John de Plessets in right of their wife and by the favour of their Prince were rais'd to the honour of Earls of Warwick But these dying without any issue by Margery Walleran Margery's uncle by the father succeeded in the honour and he dying without issue Alice his sister came to the Inheritance Afterwards William her son call'd Male-doctus Malduit and Manduit de Hanslap who dy'd also without issue But Isabel his sister being marry'd to William de Bello Campo or Beauchamp Baron of Elmesly carry'd the Earldom into the family of the Beauchamps Who if I am not mistaken because they were descended from a daughter of Ursus de Abtot gave the Bear for their Cognisance and left it to their posterity Of this family there were six Earls and one Duke William the son of Isabel John Guy Thomas Thomas the younger Richard and lastly Henry to whom King Henry the sixth made a Grant without precedent That he should be primier Earl of all England and use this title Henry primier Earl of all England and Earl of Warwick Rot. Par● 23 Hen. ● He made him also King of the Isle of Wight afterwards created him Duke of Warwick and by the express words of his Patent granted that he should have place in Parliament and elsewhere next to the Duke of Norfolk and before the Duke of Buckingham He had but one daughter Anne 24 H● who in the Inquisitions was stil'd Countess of Warwick and dy'd in her Infancy She was succeeded by Richard Nevill who had marry'd the daughter of the said Duke of Warwick a person of an invincible spirit but changeable and fickle in his Allegiance the very sport and tennis-ball of fortune Who altho' no King himself was yet superiour to Kings as being the person who depos'd Henry the sixth a most bountiful Prince to him and set up Edward the fourth in his place Afterwards he un-king'd him again re-establisht Henry the sixth in the Throne and involv'd the kingdom in the flames of a civil war which were not extinguisht but with his own blood 15 After his death Anne his wife by Act of Parliament was excluded and debarred from all her lands for ever and his two daughters heirs to him and heirs apparent to their mother being married to George Duke of Clarence and Richard Duke of Glocester were enabled to enjoy all the said lands in such wise as if the said Anne their mother were naturally dead Whereupon the name stile and title of Earl of Warwick and Sarisbury was granted to George Duke of Clarence who soon after was unnaturally dispatch'd by a sweet death in a Butt of Malvesey by his suspicious brother King Edw. 4. His young son Edward was stil'd Earl of Warwick and being but a very child was beheaded by King Henry 7. to secure himself and his posterity The death of this Edward our Ancestors accounted to be the full period and final end of the long lasting war between the two royal houses of Lancaster and York Wherein as they reckon'd from the 28th year of Henry 6. unto this being the 15th of Henry 7. there were 13 fields fought 3 Kings of England 1 Prince of Wales 12 Dukes 1 Marquis 18 Earls with one Vicount and 23 Barons besides Knights and Gentlemen lost their lives Edward son of one of his daughters by George Duke of Clarence succeeded whom Henry the seventh for neither youth nor innocence could protect him to secure himself and the line put to death The title of this Earldom which was become formidable to Henry the eighth by the great troubles Richard Nevil that scourge of Kings had created lay dormant till Edward the sixth gave it to John Dudley deriving a title from the Beauchamps He as the before mention'd Richard endeavouring to subvert the Government under Queen Mary had his boundless ambition punisht with the loss of his head But his sons first John whilst his father was
Stoke And he by Anne his wife daughter of William Lord Hastings had Francis the fifth Earl who begat of Mary daughter to Thomas Lord Dacre of Gilles-land George the sixth Earl a man of approv'd fidelity in weighty affairs of State whose son Gilbert by his wife Gertrude daughter to Thomas Earl of Rutland the seventh Earl maintaineth at this day c. Next succeeded George and after him Francis his son the father of George Talbot Earl of Shrewsbury a States-man of untainted honour and approv'd experience in the weighty affairs of Government whose son Gilbert at present not only supplies his Ancestors room but supports the character too with great grandeur and his own personal merits There are in this Shire about 170 Parishes ADDITIONS to SHROPSHIRE SHropshire being the Frontier between England and Wales has had more Castles in it than any other County in England Insomuch that a * Fuller's Worth late Author says it may seem on the west to be divided from Wales with a wall of continu'd castles and Speed tells us that beside several towns strongly wall'd upon this occasion 32 Castles have been built in it a Of the more ancient Castles there seems to have been one at Chirbury Chirbury near the Severn for Aethelfled Lady of the Mercians is † Chr. Sax. said to have built one at Cyricbyrig Now as to the affinity between the old and new names if we add the Norman h after C the change is very easie and natural and for the condition of the place nothing can answer more exactly for where should she more probably build it than here when her main design was to secure her kingdom against the incursions of the Welsh b From hence toward the south-east was fought that famous battel mention'd by our Author between Ostorius and Caratacus And as the Action was great and eminent ‖ Aubrey 's Monumenta Britan. vol. 2. so are the remains of it to this day very considerable Near Lanterden about the meeting of the rivers Teme and Clun are two barrows in which were found burnt bones and an urn And a little way east of Teme at Brandon Brandon is a single square work with four ports very commodiously situated as having near it the river to serve them with water a thing the Romans were always careful to secure if possible And these are the reliques of the Romans As for the Britains there is a Camp of theirs about half a mile from Brandon at a place call'd Coxoll near Brampton-Bryan-Castle it is now cover'd with great oaks From hence they seem to have been beaten and about three miles towards the north is that large British Camp Caer-Caradock Caer Caradock The trenches are very deep and yet it is hard rock The Rampires are wall'd but the wall is now cover'd with earth which if one remove a little the stones appear * Dugd. Visitation of Shropsh It is now vulgarly call'd the Gair and situate upon the east-point of a very steep hill having no access to it but from a plain on the west part thereof It is three times as long as 't is broad having its entrance to the west fenc'd with a high treble rampire There is also a narrow passage out of it towards the east upon the very pitch of the hill The north-side of it is fortify'd with a deep and double trench but on the south-side it hath but a single trench because the steepness of that side of the hill is of it self a very good defence On the south-point of a high hill a mile north of Clun call'd Tongley Tongley is a large fortification somewhat larger than Caer Caradock it is made circular and defended with 3 deep trenches drawn round it And a mile from Bishops-castle towards Montgomery is a place call'd the Bishops-mote Bishops-mote where is a very steep and high hill like the Keep of a Castle at the west end and towards the east near an acre of ground surrounded with an entrenchment These are all the marks we have left of this memorable engagement c Keeping along the south-coast of the County we come to Clay-hill Clay-hill where are still the remains of an ancient Camp d From whence the Severn leads us to Bridgenorth Bridgnorth a name as Leland has observ'd but of late use it being call'd in all ancient Records Bridge But the most ancient name is that given it by the Saxon Annals Bricge from which by some of our later Historians it is term'd Brugge and Bruggenorth that addition being made upon the building of some bridge over the Severn south of this So that our Author I think is mistaken when he says it was formerly call'd simply Burgh implying thereby some fortification That Castle built by the Danes An. 896. call'd in Saxon Cƿatbricge seems to be the very same tho' our Author and Mr. Somner are inclin'd to place it at Cambridge in Glocestershire For 1. 't is said expresly to be upon the Severn whereas Cambridge is two miles distant and beside that was probably built to guard the passage over the Severn 2. The Canterbury-copy reads it expresly Bricge as the Chronicle calls Bridgenorth which is at this day commonly nam'd Brigge And 3. As to the former part of the word there is a town about a mile distant call'd Quatford and another at two miles distance call'd Quat so that one may reasonably imagine Cƿatbricge should not be far off The forest Morfe Morfe mention'd by our Author is now a waste with scarce a tree upon it and the Walls and Castle he speaks of quite ruinated Northward from hence is Evelyn from which place the family of that name came into Surrey some ages since along with the Onslows and Hattons where these three seated themselves near one another and have remain'd a long time e Upon the edge of Staffordshire is the Well of S. Kenelm S K●●●●● Wel● to whom the Kingdom of Mercia fell at seven years of age But Quendred his sister practising with the young King's guardians made him away f More to the west is Acton-Burnell Ac●●●-Burnell famous as our Author observes for a Parliament there The House of Commons sat in a barn then belonging to the Abbot of the Monastery of S. Peter and S. Paul which is still standing and belongs to Francis Prynce Esq g Next the Severn carries us to the Uriconium Uriconi●● of the Ancients the circumference of which city-wall was about 3 miles built upon a foundation for the most part made of pebble-stones about 3 yards thick and a vast trench round it which in some places appears exceeding deep to this day Our Author refers the decay of it to the Danish wars and that it was burnt is indubitable for the way the fire went is still discoverable by the blackness and rankness of the soil But if we say this was done by the Danes we seem to injure the Antiquity of Shrewsbury
kind which they call Peregrins For according to the account they give of them I need not use other words to describe them than these verses of that excellent Poet of our age Augustus Thuanus Esmerius in that golden book he entitles Hieracosophion Depressus capitis vertex oblongaque toto Corpore pennarum series pallentia crura Et graciles digiti ac sparsi naresque rotundae Flat heads and feathers laid in curious rows O'er all their parts hook'd beaks and slender claws The sea now with great violence assails the land receding from this Promontory which is a small region call'd the Lordship of Kemaes B● 〈◊〉 K●●●● F●●●● The chief place in it is Fiscard seated on a steep rock and having a convenient harbour for shipping so call'd by the English from a Fishery there and by the Britains Aber-Gwain which signifies the mouth of the river Gwain The next is Newport Ne●p●●● * At the foot of a high mountain on the river Nevern call'd in British Trevdraeth which signifies the town on the sand 6 And in Latin Records Novus Burgus This was built by Martin of Tours whose posterity made it a corporation granted it several privileges and constituted therein a Portrieve and Bayliff and also built themselves a Castle above the town which was their chief seat They also founded the Monastery of St. Dogmael St. Dogmael b●●● St. Teg●●● 7 According to the Order of Tours on the bank of the river Teivi in a Vale encompass'd with hills from which the village adjoyning as many other towns from Monasteries took it's beginning This Barony was first wrested out of the hands of the Welsh by Martin of Tours Lords ●f Kema●● The fa● i● of the M●●tin● from whose posterity who were from him call'd Martins it descended by marriage to the Barons de Audeley They held it a long time until the reign of King Henry 8. when William Owen descended from a daughter of Sir Nicholas Martin after a tedious suit at law for his right at last obtain'd it and left it to his son George who being an exquisite Antiquary has inform'd me that there are in this Barony besides the three Burrows Newport Fishgard and St. Dogmael 20 Knights-fees and 26 Parishes More inward on the river Teivi already mention'd lies Kil Garan 〈◊〉 Garan which shews the ruins of a Castle built by Giraldus But now being reduc'd to one street it 's famous for no other thing than a plentiful Salmon Fishery For there is a very famous Salmon-Leap ●●e Sal●●●●eap where the river falls headlong and the Salmons making up from the sea towards the Shallows of the river when they come to this cataract bend their tails to their mouths nay sometimes that they may leap with greater force hold it in their teeth and then upon disengaging themselves from their circle with a certain violence as when a stick that 's bent is reflected they cast themselves from the water up to a great height even to the admiration of the spectators which Ausonius thus describes very elegantly Nec te puniceo rutilantem viscere Salmo Transierim latae cujus vaga verbera caudae Gurgite de medio summas referuntur in undas Nor thou red Salmon shalt be last in fame Whose flirting tail cuts through the deepest stream With one strong jerk the wondring flood deceives And sporting mounts thee to the utmost waves There have been divers Earls of Penbroke ●●rls of ●●nbr●ke descended from several families As for Arnulph of Montgomery who first conquer'd it and was afterwards out-law'd and his Castellan Girald of Windsor whom King Henry 1. made afterwards President over the whole country I can scarce affirm that they were Earls King Stephen first conferr'd the title of Earl of Pembroke upon Gilbert Strongbow son of Gislebert de Clare He left it to his son Richard Strongbow the Conquerour of Ireland who was as Giraldus has it à Clara Clarensium familia oriundus descended from the famous family of the Clares Isabella the only daughter of this Earl brought this title to her husband William Marshal so call'd for that his Ancestors had been hereditary Marshals of the King's palace a very accomplish'd person well instructed in the arts of peace and war Of whom we find this Epitaph in Rudburn's Annals Sum quem Saturnum sibi sensit Hibernia Solem Anglia Mercurium Normannia Gallia Martem Me Mars the French their Sun the English own'd The Normans Mercury Irish Saturn found After him his five sons were successively Earls of Pembroke viz. William call'd the younger Richard who having rebell'd against Henry 3. fled into Ireland where he died in battel Gilbert who at a tournament in War was unhors'd and so kill'd and Walter and Anselm 8 Who enjoy'd this honour but a few days All these dying in a short space without issue King Henry 3. invested with the honour of this Earldom William de Valentia of the family of Lusignia in Poictiers who was his own brother by the mother's side and marry'd Joan the daughter of Gwarin de Mont Chensey by a daughter of William Marshal To William de Valentia succeeded his son Audomar who was Governour of Scotland under K. Edw. 1. His 9 Eldest second sister and coheiress Elizabeth being marry'd to John Lord Hastings brought this title into a new family For Lawrence Hastings his grandchild by a son 10 Lord of Weishford and c. who was Lord of Abergavenny was made E. of Penbroke by a Rescript of K. Edward 3. a copy whereof it may not be amiss to subjoyn here that we may see what right there was by heirs-female in these honorary titles Rex omnibus ad quos c. salutem Know ye that the good presage of wisdom and virtue which we have conceiv'd by the towardly youth and happy beginnings of our most well beloved Cousin Lawrence Hastings deservedly induce us to countenance him with our especial grace and favour in those things which concern the due preservation and maintenance of his honour Whereas therefore the inheritance of Aimar of Valence sometime Earl of Penbroke deceas'd long since without heir begotten of his body hath been devolv'd upon his sisters proportionably to be divided among them and their heirs because we know for certain that the foresaid Lawrence who succeedeth the said Aimar in part of the inheritance is descended from the eldest sister of Aimar aforesaid and so by the avouching of the learned whom we consulted about this matter the Prerogative both of name and honour is due unto him We deem it just and due that the same Lawrence claiming his title from the elder sister assume and have the name of Earl of Penbroke which the said Aimar had whilst he liv'd Which as much as lyeth in us we confirm ratifie and also approve unto him willing and granting that the said Lawrence have and hold the Prerogative and honour of Earl-Palatine in those lands
aa They are not both in this river but one in this and the other in the river Betham above Milchorp and has upon its Western bank a very populous town call Candale 1 Or K●ndale or Kirkby-Candale i.e. a Church in the valley upon Can. It has two Streets crossing each other is very eminent for the woollen manufacture and the industry of the inhabitants who trade throughout all England with their woollen cloath Their greatest honour is 〈…〉 that Barons and Earls have taken their titles from the place The Barons were of the family of Ivo Taleboys of whose posterity William by consent of King Henry the second call'd himself William of Lancaster His 〈…〉 of 〈◊〉 niece and heir was marry'd to Gilbert son of Roger Fitz-Reinfrid by whose daughters upon the death of William his son the estate came to Peter Brus the second Lord of Skelton of that Christian-name and William Lindsay from whom on the mother's side Ingelram Lord of Coucy in France 〈◊〉 of 〈…〉 deriv'd his pedigree as I understood by the History of Fourness-Abbey By the daughter of this Peter Brus sister and heiress to Peter Brus the third the Barony descended to the Rosses of Werke and from them the honour was devolv'd hereditarily upon the Parrs 2 Of whom Sir William Parr was made Lord Par by King Henry 8. whose Castle over against the town is ready to drop down with age It has had three Earls 〈◊〉 of 〈◊〉 John Duke of Bedford advanc'd to that honour by his brother King Henry the fifth John Duke of Somerset and John de Foix descended from the noble family of the Foix in France whom King Henry the sixth rais'd to that dignity for his faithful service in the French wars Upon which account possibly it is that some of this family of Foix in France have still the sirname of Kendal c I know no other piece of Antiquity that Kendal can boast of Once indeed I was of opinion that it was the old Roman station Concangii but time has inform'd me better d 〈…〉 Lower in the river Can there are two Water-falls where the water is tumbled headlong with a hideous noise one at a little village call'd Levens another more Southward near Betham From these the neighbours draw certain prognostications of the weather for when the Northern one has a clear sound they promise themselves fair weather but when the Southern rain and mists And thus much of the Southern and more narrow part of this County bounded on the West with the river Winster and the spacious Lake mention'd but now call'd Winander-mere and on the east with the river Lone or Lune At the upper corner of this Lake Winander-mere Ambleside lyes the carcass as it were of an ancient City with large ruins of walls and scatter'd heaps of rubbish without the walls The Fort has been of an oblong figure fortify'd with a ditch and rampire in length 132 Ells and in breadth 80. That it was a work of the Romans the British bricks the mortar temper'd with small pieces of bricks the little Urns or Pots the Glass Vials the Roman Coins commonly met with the round stones like Mill-stones of which † Coagmentatis soder'd together they us'd formerly to make Pillars and the pav'd ways leading to it are all an undeniable Evidence But the old name is quite lost unless one should imagine from the present name Ambleside that this was the Amboglana Ambolgana mention'd by the Notitia e Towards the East the river Lone is the limit and gives its name to the adjoyning tract Lonsdale i.e. a vale upon the Lone the chief town whereof is Kirkby Lonsdale whither the neighbouring Inhabitants resort to Church and Market Above the head of the Lone the Country grows wider and the Mountains shoot out with many windings and turnings between which there are here and there exceeding deep vallies and several places hollow'd like so many deep or caves f The noble river of Eden Eden call'd by Ptolemy Ituna Itu●a b It arises in Westmorland at a place call'd Hugh seat Morvil or Hugh Morvil's hill from one of that name sometimes Lord of Westmorland Out of the same hill there run two other great rivers on Yorkshire-side Eure and Swale rising in Yorkshire has at first only a small stream but increasing gradually by the confluence of several little rivers seeks a passage through these Mountains to the North-west by Pendragon-Castle c See Skipton in the Additions to the West-Riding of Yorkshire to which age has left nothing but the name and a heap of great stones g Then it runs by Wharton-hall the seat of the Barons of Wharton Wharton-hall Lords Wharton the first whereof was 3 Sir Thomas Wharton Thomas advanc'd to that honour by King Henry the Eighth To him succeeded his son of the same name who was succeeded by Philip the present Lord a person of great honour h Next by Kirby-Stephen or Stephen's Church a noted market and so by two little villages call'd Musgrave Musgrave that gave name to the warlike family of the Musgraves i of which Thomas Musgrave in the time of Edward the third was summon'd to Parliament among the Barons their seat was Heartly-Castle Heartly-Castle hard by Here the Eden as it were stops its course that it may receive some rivulets upon one of which scarce two miles from Eden it self stood Verterae Verterae an ancient town mention'd by Antoninus and the Notitia From the latter of these we learn that in the decline of the Roman Empire a Praefect of the Romans quarter'd there with a band of the Directores Now the town it self is dwindl'd into a little village defended with a small Fort and its name pass'd into Burgh Burgh under Stane-more Veget. l 4. c. 10. for it is call'd Burgh under Stane-more i.e. a Burrow under a stony Mountain Under the later Emperours to observe it once for all the little Castles which were built for the emergent occasions of war and stor'd with provisions began to be call'd Burgi a new name which after the translation of the Empire into the East the Germans and others seem to have taken from the Greek 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 And hence the Burgundians have their name from inhabiting the Burgi Orosius for so that age call'd the Dwellings planted at a little distance one from another along the Frontiers I have read nothing of it but that in the beginning of the Norman Government 4 The Northern English the English form d a Conspiracy here against William the Conquerour I durst almost affirm that this Burgh was the old Verterae both because the distance on one side from Levatrae and on the other from Brovonacum if resolv'd into Italian miles does exactly agree with the number assign'd by Antoninus and also because a Roman military way still visible by its high ridge or
as great variety and perfection as most places in the South bb The study of School-Divinity was mightily in fashion about Scotus's time and especially in the University of Oxford where the petulant humours of the Dominicans put the Students upon all sorts of wrangling Hence this place has afforded more men of eminence in that way than perhaps all the other Universities of Europe and these have marshall'd themselves under the glorious Epithets of Subtilis Profundus Irrefragabilis c. cc As pitiful a Hamlet as Mr. Camden here makes of Brampton ●●●●pton 't is the place he once pitch'd upon for the Bremenium of the Ancients and so the word is still render'd in the Indices of his latest Editions It has also been of good note in our time for one of the prettiest Houses in this part of the County the Seat of George Collingwood Esq a branch of the House of Eslington dd In the Hall at Chillingham-Castle ●●●●ing-●●●-castle there is a Chimney-piece with a hollow in the middle of it wherein 't is said there was found a live Toad at the sawing of the Stone The other part of it is also still to be seen with the like mark upon it and put to the same use at Horton-Castle ee What our Author names Wollover ●●●●●ver they call usually Wooler 'T is a little inconsiderable Market-town with a thatch'd Church and some other marks of the Poverty of the Inhabitants The advantages of a late Brief upon a Fire that here happen'd may possibly raise it fairer out of its present Ashes ff 〈◊〉 Gloss ●●ron From a passage in Florence of Worcester one may probably conjecture that Brunanburh for so all our Historians but Ingulphus call it must have been some-where nearer the Humber Tho' perhaps it will be more difficult to carry the great Constantine of Scotland and the little King of Cumberland so high into Yorkshire than to bring Anlaf thus far down into Northumberland gg The Town and Church of Norham Norham were both built by Bishop Egfrid or Egred as some call him who was a mighty Benefactor to the See of Lindisfarn The Church was dedicated to St. Peter St. Cuthbert and St. Ceolwulph the religious King of Northumberland who was the first of our Princes that had the Gallantry to retire from a Throne to a Monastery His Body was also deposited here by the same Bishop and the Monks of the following Age took care to bring in the Country round to pay their Devotion and Tribute to their Royal Brother who always oblig'd his visitants with some kind Miracle or other Vide Sim. Dunelm Hist Eccl. l. 2. c. 5. Et Rog. Hoveden ad Ann. 764. In the year 1121. the Castle was built by Bishop Ralph for the better security of this part of his Diocese against the frequent Incursions of the Scotish Moss-Troopers hh Berwick Berwick is now much out-done in strength and regular fortifications by Portsmouth Hull Plymouth and some other Forts in England and is chiefly strong in the present Union of the two Kingdoms ii This word is variously written in old Records Berewica Berewica Berwicha Berwichus Berewich Berewita and Berwita Of all which see Instances in Sir H. Spelman's Glossary It may be the most suitable derivation of it for our present purpose is what Fr. Tate has given us in his MS. Exposition of the hard words in Doomsday-Book Berewica says he is a Corn-Farm The Etymology agrees with the plenty of grain about the Town of Berwick kk By the account that M. Paris gives of the Conditions whereon the King of Scots was releas'd it does not appear that the Town of Berwick was redeemable but absolutely surrender'd and made over Pro hâc autem conventione fine says he firmiter observando dedit Rex Scotorum Regi Anglorum Successoribus suis Castella de Berwicke de Rokesburc in perpetuum possidenda ll Whatever roughness Mr. Camden might fancy he saw in the Manners of the People of Northumberland 't is certain that the Description which Aeneas Silvius gives of them is not their due at this day Their Tables are as well stock'd as ever with Hens and Geese and they have also plenty of good bread and beer Strangers and Travellers are no novelties to them the Roads betwixt Edinburgh and Newcastle being as much frequented by such of all Nations as almost any others in the Kingdom A Roundlet of Red-wine is a greater rarity in a Country-man's house in Middlesex than on the borders of Northumberland where you shall more commonly meet with great store of good Claret than in the Villages of any other County in England That Wine is not the constant drink of the Country ought no more to be remark'd as a thing extraordinary than that Yorkshire-Ale is not common in Italy The Country-Keeper is able to inform you that the Moss-Trooping Trade is now very much laid aside and that a small Sum will recompence all the Robberies that are yearly committed in this County where mens persons are as safe and their goods as secure as in the most civiliz'd Kingdoms of Europe Whoredom is reckon'd as scandalous a vice here as elsewhere and it were our happiness if in the Southern parts of the Kingdom it were as little fashionable In a word the Gentry of Northumberland are generally persons of address and breeding and preservers of the true old English Hospitality in their Houses And the Peasants are as knowing a people and as courteous to strangers as a man shall readily meet with in any other part mm Bishop Walcher was a most vile oppressour and scandalous worldling He bought the Earldom of Northumberland and resolv'd to make the people pay for it But at last being wearied with daily extortion and reduc'd almost to beggary they unanimously fell upon him and slew him at a County-Court which he used always to attend himself in person the better to secure the Fees and other Perquisites And at that time these were considerable since the Sheriffs of Northumberland never accounted to the King before the third of Edward the sixth Their Foreman gave the word which most of our old Historians have thought worth the recording to posterity Short red good red slea ye the Bishop Continuation of the EARLS Earls of Northumberland The last Earl that Mr. Camden mentions was a great Patron of Learned men especially Mathematicians with whom he kept a constant familiarity and correspondence Soon after the discovery of the Powder-Plot he was committed Prisoner to the Tower upon suspicion of his being privy to that part which his kinsman Tho. Percie had in the Conspiracy He was succeeded by his son Algernoon whose son Joceline the last Earl of this Family dy'd at Turin A. D. 1670. leaving only one daughter Elizabeth the present Dutchess of Somerset Upon his death the Honour was given by King Charles the second to his own natural Son George Fitz-Roy who is now Duke of
Litanies of the Church there was afterwards inserted From the fury of the Danes Good Lord deliver us They brought the French to such extremities that Carolus Calvus was forc'd to buy a truce of Hasting the commander of the Norman Pirates with the Earldom of Chartres and Carolus Crassus gave Godfrid the Norman part of Neustria with his daughter At last by force of arms they fix'd near the mouth of the Seine in those parts which formerly by a corruption had been call'd Neustria Neustria as being part of Westrasia for so the middle-age writers term it the Germans stil'd it Westenriich i.e. the Western kingdom it contains all between the Loyre and the Seine to the sea-ward They afterwards call'd it Normannia i.e. the Country of the Northern men so soon as Carolus Simplex had made a grant of it in Fee to their Prince Rollo whose Godfather he was and had given him his daughter to wife When Rollo as we are inform'd by an old Manuscript belonging to the Monastery of Angiers had Normandy made over to him by Carolus Stultus with his daughter Gisla he would not submit to kiss Charles's foot And when his friends urg'd him by all means to kiss the King's foot in gratitude for so great a favour he made answer in the English tongue NE SE BY GOD that is No by God Upon which the King and his Courtiers deriding him and corruptly repeating his answer call'd him Bigod Bigod from whence the Normans are to this day term'd Bigodi For the same reason 't is possible the French call hypocrites and your superstitious sort of men Bigods This Rollo who at his Baptism was named Robert is by some thought to have turn'd Christian out of design only but by others not without deliberation and piety These latter add that he was mov'd to it by God in a Dream which tho' Dreams are a thing I do not give much heed to I hope I may relate without the imputation of vanity as I find it attested by the writers of that age The story goes that as he was a sleep in the ship he saw himself deeply inf●cted with the leprosie but washing in a clear spring at the bottom of a high hill he recover'd and afterwards went up to the hil●'s top This he told a Christian captive in the same ship who gave him the following interpretation of it That the Lepr●sie was the abominable worship of Idols with which he was defi●'d the Spring was the holy laver of regeneration wherewith being once cleans'd he might climb the mountain that is attain to great honour and heaven it self Dukes of No mandy This Rollo had a son call'd William but sirnam'd Longa Spata from a long sword he us'd to wear William's son was Richard the first of that name who was succeeded by his son and grand-child both Richards But Richard the third dying without issue his brother Robert came to the Dukedom and had a son by his concubine nam'd William who is commonly called the Conqueror and Bastard All these were Princes very eminent for their atchievements both at home and abroad Whilst William come to man's estate was Duke of Normandy Edward the Holy sirnam'd Confess●r King of England and last of the Saxon Line to the great grief of his subjects departed this life He was son of Emma a Cousin of William's as being daughter to Richard the first Duke of Normandy and whilst he liv'd under banishment in Normandy had made William a promise of the next reversion of the Crown of England But Harold the son of Godwin and Steward of the Houshold under Edward got possession of the Crown upon which his brother Tosto on one hand and the Normans Normans on the other lay out their utmost endeavours to dethrone him After he had slain his brother Tosto and Harald King of Norwey whom Tosto had drawn in to his assistance in a set-battle near Stamford-bridge in Yorkshire and so tho' not without great damage had gain'd the victory within less than nine days William sirnam'd Bastard Duke of Normandy building upon the promises of Edward lately deceas'd as also upon his adoption and relation to Edward rais'd a powerful army and landed in England in Sussex Harold presently advanc'd towards him tho' his soldiers were harrass'd and his army very much weaken'd by the late fight Not far from Hastings they engag'd where Harold putting himself forward into the heat of the battle and showing great courage lost his life Abundance of the English were slain tho' it would be almost impossible to find out the exact number William after he had won the day march'd through Walingford with a barbarous army towards London where he was receiv'd and inaugurated Charter of William the Conqueror The kingdom as himself expresses it being by divine Providence design'd for him and granted by the favour of his Lord and Cousin the glorious King Edward And a little after he adds That the bounteous King Edward had by adoption made him heir to the Crown of England Tho' if the history of S. Stephen of Caen may be credited these were the last words he spoke upon his death-bed History of St. Stephen's Monastery at Caen in Normandy The Regal Diadem which none of my Predecessors wore I gain'd not by any hereditary title but by the favour of Almighty God And a little after I name no heir to the crown of England but commend it wholly to the eternal Creator whose I am and in whose hands are all things 'T was not an hereditary right that put me in possession of this honour but by a desperate engagement and much blood-shed I wrested it from that perjur'd King Harold and having slain or put to flight all his abettors made my self Master of it But why am I thus short upon so considerable a revolution of the British State If you can but have the patience to read it take what I drew up 't is possible with little accuracy or thought but however with the exactness of an history when raw and young very unfit for such an undertaking I had a design to write the history of our nation in Latin The Norman Conquest EDward the Confessor's dying without issue put the Nobility and Commonalty into a great distraction about naming the new King Edgar commonly called Aetheling Edmund Ironside's * * Abn●pos ex f●●io great great grandchild by his son was the only person left of the Saxon Line and as such had an hereditary title to the Crown But his tender years were thought altogether uncapable of government and besides his temper had in it a mixture of foreign humours as being born in Hungary the son of Agatha daughter to the Emperor Henry the third who was at too great a distance to bear out the young boy either with assistance or advice Upon these accounts he was not much respected by the English who valu'd themselves upon nothing more than to have a
the celebrated Organ at Ulme This city gave birth to Henrietta Maria youngest daughter to K. Charles 1. to William Petre ●ho was Secretary and Privy-Counsellor to K. Henry 8. Edward 6. Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth and seven times Embassadour in foreign parts and lastly to Sir Thomas Bodley employ'd by Queen Elizabeth to several foreign Courts but especially famous for his founding the Publick Library in the University of Oxford call'd after his own name nn Thomas the last Earl of Exeter mention'd by our Author was succeeded by William his son and heir who dying without issue-male The Ea●●s continu'd left that honour to David Cecil Son of Sir Richard Cecil who was second son to Thomas Earl of Exeter This David was succeeded by John his son and heir and he by his son of the same name o At the confluence of Ex and Clist is Topesham Tophesha● an ancient town that hath flourish'd much by the obstructions of the river Ex. Several attempts have been made to remove these dammes but none so effectual as the new works in the time of King Charles 2. at the vast expence indeed of the City of Exeter but to such advantage that Lighters of the greatest burden come up to the city-key On the east of Exeter is a parish call'd Heavy-tree Heavy-t●●● memorable for the birth of Hooker the judicious Author of the Ecclesiastical Polity and of that great Civilian Dr. Arthur Duck. The next parish is Pinhoe Pinhoe remarkable for bringing forth the two Rainolds John and William brothers zealous maintainers both of the Reform'd and the Popish Religion in their turns Not far from hence is Stoke-Canon Stoke-C●non given by K. Canute to the Church of Exeter a representation of which gift was to be seen not long ago in a window of the Parish-Church there viz. a King with a triple Crown and this Inscription Canutus Rex donat hoc Manerium Eccles Exon. Four miles east of Exon we pass the river Clyst near which upon Clyst-heath Clyst-heath the Cornish rebels were totally defeated An. 1549. by John Lord Russel afterwards Earl of Bedford p Next is Honnyton Honny●●● where the market was anciently kept on Sundays as it was also in Exeter Launceston and divers other places till in the reign of K. John they were alter'd to other days Over the river Ottery is Vennyton bridge Vennyt●●-bridge at which in the time of Edw. 6. a battle was fought against the Cornish rebels q And upon the same river stands Budley Budley famous for being the birth-place of that great Statesman and Historian Sir Walter Rawleigh r From whence to the north east is Sidmouth Sidmou●● now one of the chiefest fisher-towns of those parts s And Seaton Seaton where the inhabitants formerly endeavour'd to cut out a haven and procur'd a Collection under the Great Seal for that purpose but now there remain no footsteps of that work t The river Ax passeth by Ford Ford. to which Abbey the Courtneys were great benefactours it is now in the hands of Edmund Prideaux Esq Baldwin Archbishop of Canterbury in the reign of K. Richard 1. was first Monk and then Abbot here Ax empties it self into the sea at Axmouth Axmo●●● formerly a good harbour for ships Several attempts have been made to repair this decay'd haven by the family of the Earles but all in vain u Crossing the country to the north-west we meet with Hartland Hart●●●● the possessions of which Monastery were confirm'd by Richard 1. with the grant of great immunities particularly of a Court holding plea of all matters saving life and member arising in their own lands In the time of Q. Elizabeth a Bill was preferr'd in the house of Commons for finishing that port Not far from this is Clovelly-harbour Clo●●●●● secur'd by a Piere erected at great charges by the Carys who have had their seats here from the time of Richard 2. 'T is now the most noted place in those parts for herring-fishing At a little distance lies Hole or South-hold S●●th-hold the native place of Dr. John Moreman Vicar of Maynhennet in Cornwall towards the latter end of Henry 8. memorable upon this account that he was the first who taught his Parishioners the Lord's Prayer Creed and ten Commandments in the English tongue By which we learn in how short a time that language has entirely prevail'd against the native Cornish w Upon the river Ock is Okehampton ●kehampton which as it had formerly 92 Knights fees belonging to it so it is at present a good market town incorporated by K. James 1. sends Burgesses to Parliament and gives the title of Baron to the family of the Mohuns More to the north lies Stamford-Courtney Stamford-Courtney where began a great insurrection in the time of K. Edward 6. by two of the inhabitans one of whom would have no Gentlemen the other no Justices of Peace x At a little distance is North-Tawton North-Tawton where there is a pit of large circumference 10 foot deep out of which sometimes springs up a little brook or bourn and so continues for many days 'T is taken by the common people as a fore-runner of publick sorrow as that Bourn in Hertfordshire call'd Woobournmore Directly towards the north upon the river Moule lieth South-moulton ●outh-●oulton an ancient town incorporate formerly call'd Snow-moulton when it was held by the Martyns by Sergeanty to find a man with a bow and three arrows to attend the Earl of Gloucester when he should hunt thereabouts x From hence to the south-west is Torrington ●●rrington call'd in old Records Chepan-Torrington an ancient Borough which sent Burgesses to Parliament But that privilege hath been long discontinu'd both here and in other places in this County It was incorporated by Queen Mary by the name of Mayor Aldermen and Burgesses and hath yielded the title of Earl to George Duke of Albemarle the great Restorer of K. Charles 2. as after him to Christopher his only son and since to Arthur Herbert the present Earl late Lord Admiral y The river goes next to Bediford ●ediford mention'd by our Author for it's bridge It is so high that a ship of 50 or 60 tunn may sail under it For which and for number of arches it equals if not exceeds all others in England 'T was begun by Sir Theobald Granvill and for the finishing of it the Bishop of the Diocese granted out Indulgences to move the people to more liberal contributions and accordingly great sums of money were collected This place hath been in the possession of the Granvills ever since the Conquest a family famous particularly for Sir Richard Granvill's behaviour in Glamorganshire in the reign of W. Rufus and another of the same name under Q. Elizabeth who with one ship maintain'd a sea-fight for 24 hours against 50 of the Spanish Galeons and at last yielded upon
Montacute in Domesday Montagud it salutes Montacute so call'd by the Earl of Moriton brother by the mother's side to William 1. † If Leland be Mr. Camden's authority for this he freely declares he had it only by hear-say who built a castle at the very top of the hill and a Religious house at the bottom of it because it rises by degrees into a sharp point whereas before that it was nam'd * In the Copy of Leland which I had it is Logaresburch and 't is probable Mr. Camden had it from him Logoresburg and Bischopeston Annals of Glassenbury But the castle has been quite destroy'd these many years and the stones carry'd off to build the Religious house and other things Afterwards on the very top of the hill was a Chappel made and consecrated to S. Michael the arch and roof curiously built of hard stone and the ascent to it is round the mountain up stone-stairs for near half a mile Now the Monastery and Chappel are both demolish'd and the greatest ornament it has is a delicate house which the worthy c His grandson Sir Edward Philips is still living Sir Edward Philips Knight Serjeant at Law lately built at the foot of the mountain Lords of Montacute This place gave name to the honourable family of the Montacutes descended from Drogo * Juvene the Young Of this family there were four Earls of Salisbury the last left issue one only daughter which had by Richard Nevil the famous Richard Earl of Warwick that * turb●●●● Whirlwind of England and John Marquess of Montacute both kill'd in the battle of Barnet in the year 1472. But the title of Baron Montacute was conferr'd upon Henry Poole Son of Margaret daughter of George Duke of Clarence descended from a daughter of that Richard Nevil Earl of Warwick by King Henry 8. who presently after beheaded him Queen Mary bestow'd the title and honour of Viscount Montacute upon Anthony Brown whose grandmother was daughter of John Nevil Marquess of Montacute d It still continues in the same family and the honour is at present enjoy'd by Francis Viscount Mountague and his grandchild by a son now enjoys it 9 And here I must not forget Preston sometime the seat of John Sturton younger son to the first Lord Struton one of whose heirs was marry'd to Sidenham of Brimston thereby Next to this is Odcombe Odcom●● which tho' but a very small town must not yet be omitted because it has had it's Baron Barons William de Briewer B●iew●r for so his father was call'd as being born * In e●●● in a heath who 10 Who being taken up in the New-Forest by K. Henry the s●cond in a hunting journey prov'd 〈◊〉 great man having great interest at Court being also an entire Favourite of Richard 1. was respected and caressed by all and so got a very large estate 11 Marry'd Beatrix of Vannes Widow to Reginald Earl of Cornwall with which by the marriage of his daughters for his son dy'd without issue he made a great accession to the estates of the Brees Wakes Mohuns La-ferts and Pereys Below this at a little distance is Stoke under Hamden where the Gornays had their castle and built a College This family surnam'd de Gornaico and commonly Gornay was very ancient and illustrious descended from the same stock with the Warrens Earls of Surrey and the Mortimers But in the last age it was extinct and part of that estate came by the Hamptons to the Knightly family of the Newtons Newto●● who freely own themselves to be of Welsh extraction and not long ago to have been call'd Caradocks Nor must we forget to mention that Matthew Gornay was bury'd here a stout souldier in the time of Edward 3. and dy'd in the 96th year of his age after he had been dd The Inscription was in French and is set down at large by Leland where 't is express'd that he dy'd Sept. 26. An. 1406. as the Inscription witnesseth at the siege of D'algizer against the Saracens at the battles of Benamazin Sclusa Cressia Ingines Poictiers and Nazaran in Spain Next the Parret waters Martock a little market-town which formerly William of Bologne son to king Stephen gave to Faramusius of Bologne Far●mo●● of B●lo● Fie●es whose only daughter and heir Sibill was marry'd to Ingelram de Fienes and from them are descended the Fienes Barons of Dacre and the Barons of Say and Zele From hence the Parret cuts it's way into the north through a muddy plain by Langport a market-town pretty well frequented and by Aulre Aulre a little village of a few small hurts which yet seems once to have been a town of better note For when Alfred had so shatter'd the Danes and by a siege forc'd them to surrender that they took an Oath to depart out of his dominions with all expedition and e I think most of our Historians call it Godrun the Saxon Annals constantly mention it under that name Godrus their King as Asser tells us promis'd to embrace Christianity then Alfred in this place took him out of the sacred font of Regeneration with great pomp The Parret running from hence receives the river Thone which rising at a great distance in the western part of the County next Devonshire passes through delicate fields 12 Near Wivelscomb assign'd anciently to the Bishop of Bath to Wellington Wellin● which in the time of Edward the Elder was the ground of six Mansion-houses at what time he gave this along with Lediard Ledia●● which was of twelve Mansion-houses to the Bishop of Shirbourn It is now a little market-town receiving it's greatest glory from an honourable Inhabitant for persons eminent for virtue and their good services to their country deserve always to be mention'd 13 Sir John Popham John Popham J. Poph● memorable as for the antiquity of his noble descent so for his strict justice and singular industry This man now Lord Chief Justice of the King's Bench administers Justice with so much evenness and such a temper'd severity that England has for this long time been mostly indebted to him for it's domestick peace and security Going from hence with a gentle and easie course the Thone washes Thonton or Taunton 〈…〉 and gives it that name It is a neat town delicately seated and in short one of the eyes of this County Here Ina King of the West-Saxons built a castle which Desburgia his wife levell'd with the ground after she had driven Eadbricth King of the East-Saxons out of it who had got possession and us'd it as a curb to a conquer'd nation In the reign of Edward the Confessor it gelded so it is in Domesday-book for 54 hides had 63 Burgers and was held by the Bishop of Winchester whose Pleadings were here kept thrice a year Those Customs belong to Taunton Burgheriste robbers breach of the
Shirburn by Herman the eighth Bishop Wil. Malmesb of Bishops was at last as I have said before translated to Salisbury and carried with it all the reputation from this place because at Ramesbery there was neither a Chapter of the Clergy nor any thing for their maintenance On the other side the river more toward the East is 30 Not long since the seat of the Darels Littlecot Littlecot which is to be mention'd upon the account of John Popham Lord of it who being Lord Chief Justice of the King's Bench discharges his Office with great applause as I have said before 31 And hereby runneth the limit between this shire and Berkshire Hitherto I have surveyed the County of Wilts which as it is in Domesday-book for I do not think it improper to be taken notice of paid the King 10 l. for an Hawk 20 s. for a Sumpter-horse one hundred shillings and five Ores for Hay I am wholly ignorant what sort of Money these Ores were Ore what only thus much I have noted out of the register of Burton-Abbey that 20 Ores p Of these Ores see Mr. Walker's Dissertation prefix'd to the Life of K. Alfred were worth 2 marks of silver Earls of Wiltshire The Earls of this Shire have been but few tho' of divers Families besides those of Salisbury which I have mention'd before For excepting Weolsthan before the Norman Conquest q There was also in the Saxon times one Ethelhelm that was Earl of this County sc about 886. it had none that I know of till Richard 2.'s time who preferred William le Scrope to that honour but this man's grandeur continu'd and fell with his Prince for when that King was dethron'd this Earl was beheaded Not many years after he was succeeded by James Butler Earl of Ormond who was raised to this dignity by King Henry 6. But when the House of Lancaster was in a declining condition he was attainted and King Edward 4. conferred this title on John Stafford younger son of Humphrey Duke of Buckingham to whom succeeded his son Edward who died without issue King Henry 8. afterward dignified with this honour Henry Stafford descended from the Buckingham-family who not long enjoying his title dyed without issue At last it came to the family of the Bollens by the favour of the same King who made Thomas Bollen Viscount Rochford descended from an Heiress of Th. Butler Earl of Ormond Earl of Wiltshire whose daughter Ann the King married which match was unfortunate to her self her Brother and her Parents but lucky for England because she it was that gave birth to that excellent Princess Queen Elizabeth Queen E●●zabeth who doth merit eternal honour for her excellent management of the Kingdom and is highly to be admired for many great virtues much above her sex But when this Thomas Bollen died without issue male of grief occasion'd by the unhappy fate of his Children this title lay dormant until King Edward 6. qualified therewith William Powlet Lord S. John of Basing See Bi● in H●●shire whom afterwards he raised to be Marquess of Winchester and Lord High Treasurer of England in whose posterity it yet remaineth There are in this County 304 Parishes ADDITIONS to WILTSHIRE a WILTSHIRE in Saxon Wiltunscyre and by the Historians of succeeding ages melted by degrees into our Wiltshire call'd also Provincia Semerana and Severnia or Provincia Severorum is the largest mid-land County of any in England as may be easily observed by the * Appendix to the 2. Tome of ●he English ●torians ancient computation of it's Hides For we find that in Wiltysire as 't is there term'd were 4800 hides which is more by 2000 than any Shire mention'd by that Author The 39 miles in length and 29 in breadth which Spede assigns to it will be found too little both ways upon an accurate survey a Our Author observes among other advantages that this County is watered with the Isis which afterwards takes the name of Thamisis Thamisis not from a conjunction of Thame and Isis An error with which the world is so possess'd that 't will be a hard matter to make them part with it notwithstanding it plainly appears that this river was always call'd Thames or Tems before ever it came near Thame For instance in an ancient Charter granted to Abbot Aldhelm there is particular mention made of certain lands upon the east part of the river cujus vocabulum Temis juxta vadum qui appellatur Summerford and this ford is in Wiltshire The same thing appears from several other Charters granted to the Abby of Malmsbury as well as that of Enesham and from the old Deeds relating to Cricklade And perhaps it may safely be affirmed that in any Charter or authentick History it does not ever occur under the name of Isis which indeed is not so much as ever heard of but among scholars the common people all along from the head of it down to Oxford calling it by no other name but that of Thames So also the Saxon Temese from whence our Tems immediately comes is a plain evidence that that people never dreamt of any such conjunction But farther all our Historians that mention the Incursions of Aethelwold into Wiltshire A. D. 905. or of Canute A. D. 1016. tell us that they pass'd over the Thames at Cricklade For the original of the word it plainly seems to be British because one may observe several rivers in several parts of England of almost the same name with it as Tame in Staffordshire Teme in Herefordshire Tamar in Cornwall c. And the learned Mr. Llwyd affirms it to be the same with their Tâf which is the name of many rivers in Wales the Romans changing the pronunciation of the British f into m as the Latin word Demetia is in Welsh Dyfed b As for Wansditch Wans●● the course whereof is trac'd in the Map it seems to be so far from having been drawn for a boundary between the West-Saxons and Mercians as our Author would have it that it was probably made long before the settlement of the Mercian Kingdom viz. by Cerdick the first King of the West-Saxons or by Kenric his son against the incursions of the Britains who even in K. Ceaulin's time as Malmsbury tells us made frequent inroads into this County from their garrisons at Bath Glocester and Cirencester And the same Historian informs us that Ceaulin was routed by the Britains not as other writers at Wodensburgh but at Wodenesdic which seems to intimate that it was made before that time and was then a boundary between the two people The rampire and graff of this Wansditch are very large the rampire on the south-side And besides this ditch there are several others of less note still visible upon the plains especially about Stone-henge and in the † Mo● Ang●●● Saxon-Charter of lands belonging to Wilton-Abbey there is mention made of no less than 13 distinct
has been a long series of successors no less eminent for wealth and honour than for piety and devotion 5 But among others St. Swithin continues yet of greatest fame not so much for his sanctity as for the rain which usually falls about the feast of his translation in July by reason the Sun then is Cosmically with Praesepe and Aselli noted by ancient writers to be rainy Constellations and not for his weeping or other weeping Saints Margaret the Virgin and Mary Magdalen whose feasts are shortly after as some superstitiously credulous have believed and by a peculiar privilege are Chancellors to the Archbishop of Canterbury and Prelates of the Garter Some of these at great expence have beautify'd and enlarg'd this Church particularly Edington and Walkeling but above all Wickham who with incredible cost built the West part of the Church from the Choire a neat and curious piece of work in the middle of which between two pillars is his own monument The Church has been accordingly dedicated to new Patrons Amphibalus Peter Swithin and lastly to the Holy Trinity by which name it is at present call'd Among the Saxons it was in great repute for being honour'd with the Sepulture of some of their Kings whose bones were gathered by Richard Fox Bishop and put into little gilded Coffins which with their several Inscriptions he placed upon a wall that runs along the upper part of the Quire It was formerly call'd h Ealdan-Mynster Chron. Sax. Ealden-mynster i.e. the old Monastery or Minster to distinguish it from the more modern one i Niwan-Mynster Chron. Sax. Neƿan-mynster i.e. New Minster which King Aelfred founded and to build the Offices belonging to it bought of the Bishop a certain peice of ground for every foot whereof he paid one Mark according to the publick Standard This new College as well as the old one was first founded for marry'd Priests who were afterwards expelled by Dunstan Archbishop of Canterbury upon the miracle of a Cross speaking and condemning the Order and so Monks were brought into their room These two Monasteries had their walls so near one another that when they were singing in one the noise was a disturbance to the other upon which arose some quarrels between the two Societies that afterwards broke out into feuds This reason and another inconvenience of a great confluence of waters which ran down the streets from the West-gate and making a standing pool at this new Monastery did infect the air with unwholsome vapours caus'd the Church 200 years after it's first building to be remov'd into the northern suburbs to a place call'd Hide Hide-Abby where by the licence of Henry 1. the Monks built a large and beautiful Monastery which within a few years by the treachery of Henry of Blois Bishop of Winchester as a private little History of that place tells us was miserably burnt down in which fire was consum'd that famous Cross the gift of Canute the Dane that as some old Records deliver it cost him the yearly revenue of all England But the Monastery was raised again to a noble fabrick as the present ruines testifie and grew by degrees till that fatal period for the destruction of Monks For then this house was demolished and the other of St. Trinity which is the Cathedral Church upon ejection of the Monks had a new foundation of a Dean and 12 Prebendaries At the East-side of the Cathedral stands a spacious k It was built A. D. 1137. by Henry Bishop of Winchester Leiger-Book of St. Cross in the hands of Mr. Worsley palace of the Bishop's call'd Wolvesey fortify'd by several turrets almost surrounded by the river and reaching to the City-walls m In the south suburbs there is a neat College that answers it which William of Wickham Bishop of this See the greatest patron and encourager of Learning that was in England A College b●●●● by William of Wickham and whose memory shall be celebrated through all ages in the Monuments of Learning built for a publick school which affords great numbers of learned men both to Church and State In this are maintain'd gentilely a Warden 10 Fellows 2 Masters 70 Scholars l Particularly 3 Chaplains 3 Clerks an Organist 16 Choristers and the statutable servants with some others There are also other eminent buildings in this City most of them consecrated to religious uses which because time has destroy'd I have no mind to mention n tho' I cannot but take notice of that * Parthe●●●m St. Mary's Abby Nunnery or Monastery for Virgins which Aelfwide wife to King Alfred founded it having been so noble a piece of building as the ruines of it still shew and the place out of which Henry 1. Maud wife to Henry 1. took his wife Maud daughter of Malcolm King of Scots by whom the Royal families of the Saxons and Normans were united and by which means that Prince gain'd much on the affections of the English For she was great grand-daughter to Edmund Ironside by his son Edward The banished and a Lady not only endow'd with all the vertues becoming a Queen but more especially eminent for piety and devotion Whereupon this old Tetrastick was made in her commendation Prospera non laetam fecêre nec aspera tristem Aspera risus ei prospera terror erant Non decor effecit fragilem non sceptra superbum Sola potens humilis sola pudica decens Nor bless'd rejoyc'd nor when unhappy mourn'd To laughter grief and joy to fear she turn'd Nor beauty made her frail nor sceptres proud Humble tho' great and scarce more fair than good As to Guy Earl of Warwick so famous in story who in a single combat here conquer'd Colbrand that Danish † Typhoëus Giant and Waltheof Earl of Huntingdon beheaded in this place where afterward was the Chapel of St. Giles and as to the famous adjoyning Hospital of St. Cross founded by Henry de Blois Brother of King Stephen and Bishop of this City and farther endow'd by Henry de Beaufort Cardinal I shall say nothing of all these because a full relation is already given of them in our common Histories As to the Earls of Winchester Earls of Winchester to pass by Clito a Saxon who at the coming in of the Normans was depriv'd of this ancient honour King John made Saer Quincy Earl of Winchester The Quincy's Arms. whose Arms were * Baltheus militaris a Fesse with a † Lemniscus label of seven as I learn'd from his seal To him succeeded Roger his son who bore in a field Gules seven ‖ Rhombos Mascles voided Or. But he dying without Issue male the honour was extinct in him for he marry'd the oldest daughter and co-heir by a former wife of Alan Lord of Galloway in Scotland in whose right he was Constable of Scotland But by her he had only 3 daughters of whom the eldest was marry'd to William de Ferrariis Earl of
Ouse as appears by a distich in a window of S. Helen's Church there and turned the high road hither for a short cut it became so much frequented as to be reckon'd amongst the principal towns of this County having a Mayor and much enriching it self by steep'd barley sprouting and chitting again which the Greeks call Byne and we Mault Mault It hath besides a Cross of excellent workmanship in the middle of the Market-place erected as 't is reported in the reign of K. Henry 6. by the fraternity of St. Cross instituted by him As Cissa was the founder of this Abbey so Cilla as I have it out of an old book King Cedwalla's sister built a Nunnery at Helnestow near the Thames where her self presided over the Virgins who were afterwards translated to Witham In the heat of the war between Offa and Kinulph the Nuns upon the building of a castle there retired from thence For after that Kinulph was overthrown whatsoever lay under his jurisdiction from the town of Wallingford in the south part from Ichenilde-streete as far as * Now Ashbury near Whitehorse Hill Essebury and in the north part as far as the River Thames King Offa seiz'd upon Near unto it north-west lies Lee which by the daughter of a certain Knight sirnam'd de Lee fell to the family of the Besiles Besiles Lee. Fetiplace and thence came to be call'd Besiles-Lee and from that family in right of marriage to Richard Fetiplace whose progenitor Thomas brought some honour to his posterity by matching with Beatrix a natural daughter of John 1. King of Portugal 1 And widow to Gilbert Lord Talbot from whom they are descended But now let us return Hard by Abington the little River Ock which washes the south-side of the town and over which Sir John St. Helens Knight formerly built a bridge gently falls into the Ouse It hath it's rise in the vale of White-horse scarce a mile or two from Kingston-Lisle Viscounts Lisle anciently the possession of Warin de Insula or Lisle a noble Baron John Talbot a younger son of that famous Warriour John Earl of Shrewsbury being by the mother's side descended from that Baron was first created Baron L'isle 2 By K. Henry 6. as Warin de Insula was before in regard of his being possess'd of this place as if that honour were annext to it and afterwards Viscount L'isle 3 By a Patent without any such regard This title by the favour of our Kings hath in a continued series still flourish'd in his posterity For to sum up all in short when Thomas Talbot son of that John dy'd issueless being shot through the mouth with an arrow as in a skirmish he was defending his estate against Baron Barkley Edward Grey who had marry'd his sister receiv'd the same honour from King Richard 3. and had a son nam'd John whose only daughter and heir being an infant was contracted to Charles Brandon by King Henry 8. and thereupon he became Viscount L'isle but she dying before the solemnization of the marriage this his title dy'd with her Afterwards the same King Henry conferr'd this honour upon Arthur Plantagenet a natural son of King Edward 4. who had marry'd Elizabeth the sister of John Grey Viscount L'isle Edmund Dudley's widow And upon his dying without issue-male John Dudley son of Edmund Dudley by the same Elizabeth Grey afterwards Duke of Northumberland 4 In the time of K. Edward 6. was honour'd by the same King with this title But he being attainted 5 By Queen Mary Queen Elizabeth restor'd in blood his son Ambrose and before she created him Earl of Warwick the same day made him Baron L'isle 6 Who ended his life issueless and Robert Sidney his sister's son a person illustrious for his so noble descent and his own virtues was honour'd with the title of Viscount L'isle 1605. by King James who had before created him Baron Sidney of Pensherst and likewise made him Lord Chamberlain to his Royal Consort Queen Ann d Thence this river Ock just now mention'd runs between Pusey Pusey still in the possession of a Family of that Sirname and held by a Horn given to their ancestors by King Canutus the Dane e and the two Denchworths hard by Denchworth where two noble and ancient Families have long flourish'd Hide at South-Denchworth and Fetiplace at North-Denchworth both which may seem to have sprung from the same stock considering they give the same Coat of Arms. After this the Ock receives a nameless rivulet which flows out of the same Vale about Wantage call'd in Saxon Wanating anciently a Royal Vill and the birth-place of the famous King Alfred which at his death he bequeath'd to Alfrith It was made a market-town not long after by the interest of that valiant Soldier Foulk Fitzwarin upon whom Roger Bigod Earl Marshal of England had bestow'd it for his singular courage and great conduct in War and it now owns for it's Lords the Bourchiers Earls of Bath descended from the race of the Fitzwarins of which family some are bury'd here f The Ouse leaving Abington presently receives the Tame out of Oxfordshire of which river elsewhere and now by a compound word being call'd Thamisis the Thames The Thames Sinodun first makes a visit to Sinodun an high hill defended with a deep ditch where 't is certain in ancient times there was a Roman fortification for the ground being now broken up with the Plough Roman Coins a certain sign of antiquity are now and then found by the Ploughmen Bretwel Beneath it at Brettwell there was a Castle if it were not really upon this hill which Henry 2. Rob. Montensis took by force a little before his making peace with King Stephen From hence the Thames bends it's course to the once chief City of the Attrebatii call'd by Antoninus Galleva Attrebatum by Ptolemy Galeva but both of them through the carelesness of Copiers name it wrong instead of Gallena Gallena and these likewise in the Greek Copies obtrude upon us 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 by a transposition of the letters for 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 For I have been of the opinion that it was so call d in the British tongue as it were Guall hen that is the Old Fort. Which name being still kept and Ford from a shallow place in the river added to it a See this opinion confuted in the Additions to Wiltshire the Saxons in ancient times call'd it b Wealingford Walingeford and Walingford by the Saxon Annals according to the several ages Guallengaford and Wallengaford and we now-a-days by contraction Wallingford Wallingford In K. Edward the Confessor's time it was counted a Borough and contain'd in it as we find in Domesday book 276 * Hagas houses yielding 9 pound † De G●●● Tax and those that dwelt there did the King service on horseback or else by water Of those
bridge of a great many arches and a stately fabrick partly of stone and tyles laid flat upon one another SUSSEX By Robt. Morden At a little distance from the Thames we see Combe-Nevil Combe-Nevil a seat of the Harveys where have been found Medals and Coins of several of the Roman Emperors especially of Dioclesian the Maximinians Maximus Constantine the Great c. h Not far from whence is None-such None-such so much magnify'd by our Author for it's curious structure but now there 's nothing of all this to be seen scarce one stone being left upon another which havock is owing to the late Civil Wars i To the north-east is Beddington ●eddington where not only the Orchards and Gardens in general as our Author has observ'd but particularly its Orange-trees deserve our mention They have now been growing there more than a hundred years and are planted in the open ground under a moveable Covert during the winter-months They were the first that were brought into England by a Knight of that noble family who deserves no less commendation than Lucullus met with for bringing cherry and filbert-trees out of Pontus into Italy for which we find him celebrated by Pliny and others Next is Ashsted ●sh●ted where the honourable Sir Robert Howard brother to the Earl of Barkshire has enclosed a fair new house within a park laid out and planted the fields pastures and arables about it in such order and with so great improvements as to make it vye with the most considerable dry seats in this County There was near it formerly a mean deca●'d farm-house yet for the wholsome air breathing from the hills it was often resorted to by Thomas Earl of Arundel and Surrey of whose grandson father of the present Duke of Norfolk Sir Robert purchas'd it At some distance from hence is Woodcote ●oo●cote a pleasant seat among groves much adorn'd by the widow Evelyn lately deceas'd to which belong those medicinal Wells ●ps●m-●●●s that rise in the adjoyning Common They are tinctur'd with Allom and of late years are in so much repute as to occasion a very great increase of buildings in the parish of Epsom for the reception and entertainment of such as resort hither for the sake of the Spaws with the diversion of the Downs hard by Near the Thames and south of London lyes Dullwich ●ullwich where William Allen sometime a famous Comedian in King James 1.'s time erected and endow'd a pretty College and a fair Chapel for 6 poor men and as many poor women with a school for the education of 12 children Here are also Medicinal Springs call'd Sidnam-wells as likewise there are at Streeteham both of them frequented in their proper seasons Northward from hence is South-wark ●uthwark where is one thing of note the Grant of S. Mary Overies Church to the Church-wardens and their Successors for ever together with the Tithes to provide two Chaplains at their pleasure who are neither presented nor endowed and thus it differs from all other Churches in England Here lye bury'd the learned Bishop Andrews and our famous English Poet Gower A very ample and ancient palace with fair gardens belonging to the Bishops of Winchester is now converted into Tenements And here in the close we must not omit the mention of one who was a general Benefactor to the whole County His name was Smith once a Silver-smith in London but did not follow that trade long He afterwards went a begging for many years and was commonly call'd Dog-Smith because he had a Dog always follow'd him When he dy'd he left a very great Estate in the hands of Trustees upon a general account of Charity and more particularly for Surrey After they had made a considerable improvement of the estate and purchas'd several Farms they settl'd 50 l. per An. or thereabouts upon every market-town in Surrey or gave 1000 l. in money Upon every Parish except one or two they settl'd a yearly revenue upon some 6 l. others 8. and upon the rest more or less as they thought convenient But this Charity was not limited to Surrey but left to the Trustees to extend to other places of the kingdom as they found occasion and so the revenue is greater out of this County than what is paid in it Continuation of the EARLS From that Thomas whom Richard 3. made Earl of Surrey there were three of the same name and family who successively enjoy'd this Honour the last whereof dying 1646. was succeeded by Henry his son and Henry by his son Thomas from whom it went to Henry his brother Plants growing wild in Surrey Aria Theophrasti Ger. See the Synonymes in Somersetshire The white Beame tree or mountain Service tree About Croyden Park 1421. Common in the Copses near the Downs Acorus verus sive Calamus Officinarum Park Verus sive Calamus aromaticus Officinarum C. B. Verus Officinis falsò Calamus Ger. Calamus aromaticus vulgaris multis Acorum J. B. The sweet smelling Flag or Calamus Found by Dr. Brown of Magdalen Coll. Oxon. about Hedley in this County Buxus arbor The Box tree On Box hill near Darking thence denominated plentifully Dentaria major Matthiolo Ger. Orobanche radice dentata major C. B. radice dentata seu Dentaria major Matthiolo Park Anblatum Cordi sive Aphyllon J. B. The greater Toothwort Thomas Willisell shew'd it me in a shady lane not far from Darking in this County growing plentifully Rapunculus corniculatus montanus See the Synonymes in Hampshire Cat. Horned mountain Rampion with a round head of flowers On many places of the Downs Vicia Lathyroides nostras seu Lathyrus Viciaeformis Chichling Vetch Found by Tho. Willisell in Peckham field on the back of Southwark in a squalid watery place SVSSEX UNDER Suth-rey lies Suth-sex towards the south extending it self into a great length in ancient times the seat of the Regni and call'd in Saxon Suð-sex now Sussex as much as to say the Country of the South-Saxons A word compounded of it's Southerly situation and of the Saxons who in the Heptarchy plac'd here the second kingdom It lies all on the south-side upon the British Ocean with a streight shore as it were more in length than breadth but has but few Ports the sea being very dangerous by reason of it's Shelves and Sands which make it rough and the shore is full of Rocks 1 And the South-west wind doth tyrannize thereon casting up beach infinitely The sea-coast of this country has very high green hills call'd the Downs Downs which consisting of a fat chalky soil are upon that account very fruitful The middle-part being checquer'd with meadows pastures corn-fields and groves makes a very fine show The hithermost and northern-side is shaded most pleasantly with woods as anciently the whole Country was a which made it unpassable For the a It is now call'd the Weilde or Wild. Wood Andradswald in British Coid Andred
k The Notitia adds reliquos officiales comprehending all the Under-Officers c. And I no way doubt but it was in imitation of this method of the Romans that our Ancestors set over this coast a Governour or Portreve commonly call'd Warden of the Cinque-ports Warden of the Cinque-ports because as the Count of the Saxon-shore presided over nine so does he over five ports Kent deliver'd to the Saxons But after the Romans had quitted Britain Vortigern who had the command of the greatest part of it set over Kent a Guorong i.e. a Vice-Roy or Freeman without whose knowledge he frankly bestow'd this Country as Ninnius and Malmesbury have it upon Hengist the Saxon on the account of his daughter Rowenna with whom he was passionately in love a. Thus was the first kingdom of the Saxons settled in Britain in the year of Christ 456. call'd by them Cantƿara-ryc i.e. the kingdom of the Kentish-men which after 320 years upon Baldred the last King 's being conquer'd came under the jurisdiction of the West-Saxons and continu'd so till the Norman Conquest For then if we may believe Thomas Spot the Monk no ancient Writer having any thing of it the Kentish men carrying boughs before them 4 And representing afar off a moving wood surrendred themselves to William the Conquerour at Swanescomb a small village where they tell us that Suene the Dane formerly encamp'd upon condition they might have the Customs of their Country preserv'd entire that especially which they call Gavel-kind Gavel kind b By which 5 By which they are not so bound by Copy hold Customary tenures or Tenant-right as in other parts of England but in a manner every man is a Free-holder and hath some part of his own to live upon all lands of that nature are divided among the males by equal portions or upon defect of issue-male among the females By this they enter upon the estate at 15 years of age and have power to make it over to any one either by gift or sale without consent of the Lord. By the same the sons succeed to this sort of lands tho' their parents be condemn'd for theft c. So that what we find in an ancient Book is very true tho' not elegantly written The County of Kent urges that that County ought of right to be exempt from any such burthen because it affirms that this County was never conquer'd as was the rest of England but surrender'd it self to the Conqueror's power upon Articles of agreement provided that they should enjoy all their liberties and free customs which they then had and us'd from the beginning William the Conqueror afterwards to secure Kent which is look'd upon to be the Key of England set a Constable over Dover-castle and constituted the same in imitation of the ancient Roman custom Governour of 5 ports stiling him Warden of the Cinque-ports Lord Warden of the 5 Ports Those are Hastings Dover Hith Rumney and Sandwich to which Winchelsey and Rie are annext as Principals and some other little towns as members only And because they are oblig'd to serve in the wars by sea they enjoy many and large immunities For instance from payment of Subsidies See in Sussex p. 177. from Wardship of their children as to body not to be su'd in any Courts but within their own town and such of their inhabitants as have the name of Barons at the Coronation of the Kings and Queens of England support the Canopy and for that day have their table spread and furnish'd upon the King 's right hand c. And the Lord Warden himself who is always some one of the Nobility of approv'd loyalty has within his jurisdiction in several cases the authority of 6 A Chancellor and c. Admiral and other privileges But now to the places The Thames chief of all the British rivers runs as I observ'd but now along the north part of this County which leaving Surrey and by a winding course almost retiring into it self c. 7 Doth there admit into his chanel into the first limit of this shire Ravensburne a small water and of short course which riseth in Keston-heath hard under the pitching of an ancient Camp strange for the height as double rampiers and depth as double ditches of all that I have seen doubtless the work of many labouring hands Of what capacity it was I could not discover for that the greatest part thereof is now several and overgrown with a thicket but verily great it was as may be gather'd by that which is apparent We may probably conjecture that it was a Roman Camp but I might seem to rove if I should think it that Camp which Julius Caesar pitch'd when the Britains gave him the last battel with their whole forces and then having bad success retir'd themselves and gave him leave to march to the Thames side And yet certes Keston the name of the place seemeth to retain a parcel of Kaesar's name for so the Britains call'd him and not Caesar as we do As for the other small intrenchment not far off by W. Wickham it was cast in fresh memory when old Sir Christopher Heydon a man then of great command in these parts trained the Country people This water having passed by Bromeley a Mansion-house of the Bishops of Rochester when it hath gathered strength the depth of his ford giveth name to D●r●ford c. first sees Depford Depfo●d a most noted Dock where the Royal Navy is built and when shatter'd repair'd there is also settled a famous Store house and a place or incorporation something like a * H●●na●●● College for the use of the navy It was formerly call'd West Greenwich and upon the Conquest of England fe●l to the share of Gislebert de Mamignot a Norman Ma●ig● whose grandchild by the son Walkelin it was that defended Dover-castle against King Stephen and he left behind him one only daughter who upon the death of her brother brought by marriage a large estate call'd the Honour of Mamignot into the family of the Says d From hence the Thames goes to Grenovicum G●●a● commonly Greenwich i.e. the green creak for the creak of a river is call'd in German Wic formerly famous for being a harbour of the Danish fleet and for the cruelty that people exercis'd upon Ealpheg Archbishop of Canterbury whom they put to death by most exquisite torments in the year 1012. Whose death and the cause of it Ditmarus Mersepurgius who liv'd about that time has thus describ'd in the eighth book of his Chronicle By the relation of Sewald I came to know a very tragical and therefore memorable act How a treacherous company of * 〈…〉 Due● Northern men whose Captain Thurkil now is seized upon that excellent Archbishop of Canterbury Ealpheg with others and according to their barbarous treatment fetter'd him put him to endure famine and other unspeakable pains He overpower'd by
is now Earl of Feversham † Dudg 〈◊〉 vol. 2. p. ●1● w From above Feversham the shore runneth on to Regulbium or Raculfcester now Reculver Recul●● Regu●●● the first Roman Watch-tower that comes in our way These Castles or Watch-towers being usually built upon the hghest ground near the place where 't was thought convenient they should be set we may conclude this stood in that square plot of rising ground within which after King Ethelbert's Palace and after that the Monastery stood and now the Minster or Church only stands encompass'd with the foundations of a very thick wall which for ought I know to the contrary may be the remains of this ancient Roman Fort it being of the same figure with the rest that are still more perfect However that it was somewhere hereabout at least the great number of Cisterns Cellars c. daily discover'd by the fall of the cliff amply testifie together with the great quantities of Roman brick or tile Opus Musivum Coins fibulae Gold-wire Ear-rings Bracelets c. daily found in the sands Which yet all come from the landward upon fall of the cliffs the terrene parts whereof being wash't away by the Sea these metalline substances remain likewise behind in the sands whence they are constantly pick't out by the poor people of the place And these they find here in such great quantities that we must needs conclude it to have been a place heretofore of great extent and very populous and that it has one time or other underwent some great devastation either by war fire or both I think I may be confident of the latter there being many patterns found of metals run together whereof the Reverend Dr. Batteley now Arch-Deacon of Canterbury a curious and skilful Collector of such like Antiquities has a cogent proof viz. of a piece of Copper and Gold thus joyn'd in the melting which he had from thence x Hence our Author keeping along the shore proceeds to the Isle of Thanet sever'd heretofore from the main land of Kent by the River Stour upon which stands Wye a little Market-town where Cardinal Kemp who was born in the Parish built a fair large Collegiate Church with a lofty Steeple in the middle the Spire whereof was formerly fired by lightning and burnt down to the Stone-work or Tower which too of late for want of timely repair fell down of it self and beat down the greatest part of the Church where it now lyes in its ruins Hence the Stour passes on by Olanige or Olantigh i.e. an Eight or Island to Chilham ●●●●ham where our Author thinks that Caesar had his first conflict with the Britains upon his second landing and that here it was he left his Army encamp't whilst he return'd and repair'd his Ships sore shatter'd by a storm and that hence it was call'd Chilham or Julham i.e. Julius's mansion but I cannot agree with him either in the one or the other for Caesar says expresly that the place of this conflict was but twelve Roman miles from his place of landing whereas Chilham whether he landed at Deale or Peppernesse is many more But here I do believe it was that in his march from his encampment in pursuit of the Britains he lost one of his Tribunes Laberius Durus whose monument it is that remains there on the River side by the name of Julaberie's grave xx Five miles below Chilham is Canterbury ●●●terbury at present a City of great trade to which the Foreigners in it seem to have contributed very much They are partly Walloons and partly French the first being driven out of Artois and other Provinces of the Spanish Netherlands in the Reign of Queen Elizabeth for adhering to the Reformed Religion came and settl'd here and brought along with them the art of weaving silk into this Kingdom And this is now brought to that perfection that the silks wove at Canterbury equal if not exceed any foreign silk whatsoever great quantities being sent to London where it is very much esteem'd by the Merchants The settlement of the French is but of late date only since the last persecution under Lewis 14. but they are numerous and very industrious maintaining their own poor and living frugally In the Publick Service they joyn with the Wallooms who have a large place allow'd them near the Cathedral and these together make a very great Congregation y The Stour passing Canterbury which our Author has describ'd at large runs on towards Thanet where Vortimer overthrew the Saxons ad lapidem tituli which is Stonar in this Island as 〈…〉 ●ps tituli Archbishop Usher our Author and most others agree But ●rd 〈…〉 ●orts and ●ts p. 94 ● 6 9● 〈…〉 Brit. 〈…〉 Mr. Somner and after him ‖ my Lord Bishop of Worcester seem rather inclin'd from some resemblance of the name and the reasons following to place it at Folkstone or Lapis populi the present Stonar not being supra ripam Gallici maris as Ninnius describes his lapis tituli to be nor standing high but in a low place apt to be overflow'd and therefore unfit for erecting a conspicuous Monument that was design'd to strike a terrour at a distance both which are more agreeable to Folkstone and lastly because Ninnius is not express that Lapis tituli was in Thanet C●p. 45 ● as he was in three other battles before whence they conclude and perhaps rightly that had it been in Thanet he would have told us so as he did in the rest which being a question too intricate to be debated here is wholly left to the decision of the Reader ●esfleet z Nor is it so certain that the battle of Wippedsfleet was in this Island at Ebbesfleet near the Sea-shore it looking as if the Saxons were almost driven out of the Nation again whereas they had defeated the Britains in many battles just before and driven them out of Kent as is plain and evident from the ●n 455 〈◊〉 465. Saxon Chronicle But it was certainly here that the Saxons first landed and after them St. Augustine who brought Christianity to them And here it was that Egbert the eighth and not the third King of Kent as our Author has it gave as much land to Domneva in recompence of the wrong he had done her as a Hind should run over at one Course to build a Monastery on which amounted to no less than 48 plough-lands about a third part of the Island as appears by the † Vol. 1. p. 84. Mapp in the Monasticon and the Course of the Hind delineated in it In short great has been the reputation of this Island in ancient times which too has been increased in these by its being advanced to the Honour of an Earldom the title of Earl of Thanet being deservedly given to Sir Nicholas Tufton Baron Tufton of Tufton in Com. Sussex 4 Car. 1. who dying 30 June An. 1632. was succeeded by his eldest surviving son John
it is not Bury as the Chronicle under Bromton's name supposes nor yet Burne in Lincolnshire as Mr. Camden there asserts but this Bures or Buers as Matthew Westminster calls it This Galfrid to whom we owe the discovery wrote before the year 1156. g Ipswich in Saxon Gypesƿic is said by our Author to have 14 Churches * Blome p. 209. The Parish-Churches are at present but 12 tho' besides these there is St. George's Chapel and a Parish-Church now decay'd It shews the ruins of 6 or 7 Religious-houses one whereof viz. Christ-Church is converted into a mansion-house another is employ'd for a place of Judicature with a Gaol where Quarter-Sessions are held for Ipswich-Division and another is made a Free-school with an Hospital having also the conveniency of a very good Library † Ibid. It s trade depending upon the sea has receiv'd since our Author's time so much damage that the number of their ships is very considerably diminish'd h In the times of the Saxons Dunwich Dunwich seems to have been of most early note For tho' Bury or S. Edmundsbury has been for many hundreds of years much more considerable the other falling to decay upon removal of the Bishop's See yet that had not it's reputation till long after This I am satisfy'd is the same that the Saxon Annals call Domuc and Bede Dommoc answerable to which in K. Alfred's translation it is Dommoc-ceaster The circumstances make the conjecture very probable for Alfhun who is said to have been bury'd there An. 799. is likewise said to have dy'd at Suðberi that is Sudbury in this County And where can we imagine the Bishop should be bury'd but at his own See and in his own Church In another place of Bede we meet with Dunmoc which as it is undoubtedly Dunwich so it differs not much from Domuc or Dommoc Upon an enquiry after the state of this place Sir Henry Spelman as I find by a posthumous paper of his was inform'd by one of the inhabitants that by report there had been 50 Churches in Dunwich that the foundations and Church-yards of S. Michael S. Mary S. Martin and S. John's were then to be seen over and besides S. Peter and S. Nicholas with a Chapel yet standing The ditch-bank or town-wall of it is four-square i Blithburrow Blithburrow how mean soever at present seems yet to have been very ancient For about 16 or 18 years ago there were several Roman Urns digg'd up from among some old buildings and to set aside the termination burh which is one mark of antiquity in the Saxon and following ages it was of good note as were most other places that the Romans had left Which appears as well from what our Author has observ'd of it as it 's having the Gaol for the division of Bettles an evidence of the Sessions that have been formerly kept here k By the river Ouse is Euston Euston formerly belonging to a family of that name ‖ Heyl●● help co Hist It is seated on a flat and in a fair pleasant Champian Country which induc'd the Earl of Arlington to raise a noble Structure there call'd by the name of Euston-hall adorn'd with a large Nursery containing great quantities of Fruit-trees of several sorts with artificial fountains a Canal a pleasant Grove a large Warren c. It hath given the title of Earl to Henry Fitz-Roy created August 16. 1672. Baron of Sudbury Viscount Ipswich and Earl of Euston upon his marriage with the only daughter of the Earl of Arlington He was afterwards Sept. 11. 1675. created Duke of Grafton l The remains of Roman Antiquity in this County are but small Burgh-Castle Burgh-castle is I think by much the most considerable Mr. Camden tells us that 't is built of flint and bricks the bricks are nigh a foot and a half in length and almost a foot in breadth and so agree pretty exactly with the account of Roman bricks given by Vitruvius and after him by Pliny The wall of the castle looking towards the east remains still in it's full length being about 220 yards the height about 17 or 18 foot with 4 round towers each of them about 14 foot diameter and of equal height with the wall These towers are joyn'd with the wall but yet jutt out so far beyond it that only a small part of the periphery is within they are not hollow within but solid At north and south are two other walls now not above 120 yards in length the rest being laid in rubbish as also the west-wall towards the river if there ever was any such For 't is possible the steepness of the hill and a morass below next the river might be thought a sufficient security on that side Of what use the Castle was is not certain the Stablesian-horse might very well be plac'd here but that the rivers and marshy grounds round it are not so fit to fix a Station in Ralph the son of Roger de Burgh held this castle by Sergeanty and after him Gilbert de Weseham but at last when it was surrender'd into the hands of Hen. 3. he Apr. 20. and 20th year of his reign gave it with all the appurtenances to the Monastery of Bromholmes What our Author observes of Sigebert's coming out of this Monastery must be a mistake For Thomas Eliensis printed in the Acta Benedictinorum vol. 2. pag. 239. names Bury or Betrichesworde as the place in which Sigebert betook himself to a Monastick life And the same appears not only by the * Monasticon 〈…〉 P g ●4 and Caius's † Antiquities of Cambridge but also by several Manuscript testimonies collected by the learned Dr. Batteley They have a tradition that the Monastery there was afterwards inhabited by Jews and an old way leading to the entrance call'd the Jews-way may seem to give it some colour of probability Continuation of the EARLS Thomas the last Earl mention'd by our Author was succeeded by his son and heir Theophilus who in his father's life-time bore the title of Lord Howard of Walden and dying June 3. 1640. left this honour to James his son and heir to whom succeeded Henry the present Earl More rare Plants growing wild in Suffolk Abrotanum campestre C. B. Park Ger. Artemisia tenuifolia S. leptophyllos aliis Abrotanum sylvestre J. B. Wild Sothernwood or fine-leav'd Mugwort At a place call'd Elden in Suffolk twelve miles beyond New-market in the way towards Lynne on the balks of the Corn-fields and by the way sides abundantly for a mile in length and breadth Also a mile from Barton-mills where a mark standeth in the way to Lynne to direct passengers and among the Furze-bushes under the hill plentifully Though this plant be very common beyond Seas yet hitherto I have not heard of any other place in England where it grows spontaneously Agrifolium baccis luteis nondum descriptum P. B. Yellow berried Holly At Wiston in this County not far from Buers Carduus
Grey afterwards Marquess of Dorset held this honour a little while It is evident from the Records that William Herbert Earl of Pembroke again brought in the Charter of Creation whereby his father was made Earl of Pembroke into the Chancery to be cancelled and that Edward the fourth created him Earl of Huntingdon in the seventeenth year of his reign But in the memory of our fathers Henry the eighth settled this honour upon George Lord Hastings But Francis Lord Hastings his son dying in his life-time this honour descended to Henry his son a truly honourable person both for Nobility and Piety he dying without heirs his brother George succeeded him whose grandchild by a son Henry enjoys the honour at this day This little Shire contains 78 Parishes ADDITIONS to HVNTINGDONSHIRE a HUntingdonshire call'd in * Annal. p. ●●1 l. 1. p. 147. l 36. Saxon huntandunescyre and by later Writers Huntedunescire and Huntyngdonschyre is of very small extent scarce stretching out it self 20 miles tho' measur'd to the best advantage † ●●ee● f●●m ●ir R b. Cott●n It has been an observation upon this County that the families of it have been so worn out that tho' it has been very rich in Gentry yet but few Sirnames of any note are remaining which can be drawn down beyond the reign of the last Henry The cause of such decay in places nearer London is plain enough viz. the many temptations to luxury and high living and the great wealth of Merchants always ready to supply their extravagance with money till the whole be run out But this cannot hold here so that we must see whether a reason brought by a later Author will not solve it viz. That most of the County being Abby-land upon the Dissolution many new Purchasers planted themselves herein and perhaps their new possessions might have the same fate that Church-revenues have had in other places where they fell into Lay-hands b Our Author observes that it was all Forest till the time of Henry the second But if we may believe Sir Robert Cotton who sent the account to Speed and had himself design'd a History of the County this was never fully effected till the time of Edward 1. For Henry 2. did pretend to enfranchise his subjects of this Shire from servitude of his beasts except Wabridge Saple and Herthy his own Demains But such were the encroachments of the succeeding Reigns that the poor inhabitants were forc'd to petition for redress which was granted them by the great Charter of Henry 3. Only his son resum'd the fruits of his father's kindness till in the 29th year of his reign he confirm'd the former Charter and left no more of this shire Forest than what was his own ground The government of the County is very peculiar Cambridgeshire in the Civil administration being joyn'd to it so that there is but one High-sheriff for both Shires He is one year chosen out of Cambridgeshire out of the Isle of Ely a second and a third out of this Shire In the Isle of Ely he is one time chosen out of the north part and out of the south another c It 's chief town is Huntingdon Huntingdon in Saxon huntandune huntendune huntenduneport which appears formerly to have been a flourishing town reckoning no less than 15 Churches tho' in our Author's time they were reduc'd to four and of these the zeal of the late times only left two The cause of this decay seems to have been the ‖ Cotton in Speed alteration made in the river by Grey a Minion of the time as my Author calls him who procur'd the passage of it to be stop'd whereas before to the great advantage of the Inhabitants it was navigable as far as this town King John granted it by Charter a peculiar Coroner profit by Toll and Custom a Recorder Town-Clerk and two Bailiffs but at present it is incorporated by the name of a Mayor twelve Aldermen and Burgesses d Its neighbour Goodmanchester Goodmanchester probably by the methods our Author mentions grew so wealthy and considerable that in the reign of King James 1. it was incorporated by the name of two Bailiffs twelve Assistants and commonalty of the Burrough of Goodmanchester e Lower down upon the river is St. Ives St. Ives which a late Writer calls a fair large and ancient town with a fine Stone-bridge over the Ouse But within these three or four years it was a great part of it burnt down and whether it have so far recover'd it self as to merit that character at present I know not f Between Ramsey and Peterborrow our Author observes that King Canutus made a large Cawsey call'd by our Historians Kingsdelfe Kingsdelf But whatever way our Authors mark out by that name 't is certain they cannot mean Canutus's road for the name Kingsdelf or Cingesdaelf in those parts appears upon Record before Canutus's time I mean in the reign of King Edgar who in his Charter to the Church of Peterburrow * Chron. Sax. p. 119. lin 18. makes this Cingesdaelf one of the bounds of his Donation Besides the daelf will not answer a via constrata lapidibus or pav'd way but seems rather to mark out to us some ditch drawn at first for the draining those fenny grounds and reducing the waters into one chanel g On the west side of this County is Kimbolton Kimbolton which our Author says in his time was the seat of the Wingfields It has since pass'd from them by sale to the Mountagues and Henry Earl of Manchester of that name very much improv'd the Castle sparing no cost that might add to its beauty † Lel. Itin. MS. vol. 1. It was Sir Richard Wingfield who built new Lodgings and Galleries upon the old foundations of this Castle which was double ditch'd and the building of it very strong Here is at present a pretty fair town seated in a bottom which gives the title of Baron to the Right Honourable the Earl of Manchester h Leighton Leighton mention'd by our Author to be the seat of the Cliftons is now the Lady Butler's daughter and heir to the late Richard Earl of Arran who had it in marriage with the sole daughter of James Duke of Richmond as this Duke had by the Lord Clifton's Continuation of the EARLS Henry the last Earl mention'd by our Author had by Elizabeth daughter and coheir to Ferdinando Earl of Derby Ferdinando Earl of Huntingdon father to Theophilus the seventh Earl of that name who was Captain of the Band of Gentlemen Pensioners Privy-Councellor to King Charles 2. and King James by whom he was made chief Justice in Eyre of all the Forests south of Trent as also Lieutenant of the Counties of Leicester and Derby His son and heir apparent is George Lord Hastings I have not as yet observed any Plants peculiar to this County the more rare being common to it with Cambridgeshire NORTHAMPTON SHIRE by Rob t
Confessor's Charter In consideration of 4000 Eeles in Lent the Monks of Ramsey shall have out of the Territory of St. Peter so much square stone as they need at Berneck and of rough stone for walls at Burch Beneath Berneck that Roman way which the neighbouring Inhabitants call the Forty-foot way from its breadth cuts this Shire in two between Caster and Stamford and appears in an high Causey especially by the little wood of Berneck where it has a Beacon set upon the very ridge and so runs along by Burghley-Park-wall Some few miles hence the Welland runs down by Maxey-Castle Maxey formerly belonging to the Barons of Wake and by Peag-Kirke Peag-Kirk Ingu phus where in the infancy of Christianity in England Pega a holy woman who gave name to that place sister of St. Guthlac with other devout Virgins by their life and example gave excellent documents of Piety and Chastity and so comes to the Fenns so often mention'd And by reason the bank on the South-side thereof is neglected the river over-flows the adjacent Lands to the great damage of the proprietors and having broken thus out of it's chanel which went formerly by Spalding it falls into the Nen and extreamly overcharges it The lesser Avon which is the other boundary as I said of this Shire northward but serves for a limit only about 5 or 6 miles breaking out of the ground near the springs of the Welland runs westward by 11 Suleby sometimes an Abby of black Monks and by c. Stanford Stanford upon Avon seat of the family of Cave Cave out of which several branches of good note have dispers'd themselves in all the neighbouring Tract also by Lilburne the seat in former ages of the Canvils That this hath been anciently a Roman Station I am persuaded by it's situation upon one of their Military ways by the ancient Trenches there and a little piked Hill cast up which some dug of late days in hopes of finding old hidden treasures but instead of Gold they met with Coals And thus this little river after it 's passing under Dowbridge leaves Northamptonshire and enters Warwickshire Bounds of the Ancients From the digging up of those Coals what if I should give a guess that this Hill was thrown up for a mark or Boundary since Siculus Flaccus tells us that either Ashes or Coals or Potsherds or broken Glasses or Bones half burnt or Lime or Plaister were wont to be put under such marks or limits and St. Augustin writes thus of Coals Lib. de Civ Dei 21. c. 4. Is it not a wonderful thing considering Coals are so brittle that with the least blow they break with the least pressure they are crush'd in pieces yet no time can conquer them insomuch that they that pitch'd Land-marks were wont to throw them underneath to convince any litigious fellow whatsoever that came never so long time after and should affirm that no Land-mark was there made And so much the rather am I inclined to this conjecture because they that have written of limits do inform us that certain Hillocks which they termed Botontines Boton tines Hence perhaps come our Buttings were plac'd in the limits So that I suppose most of these Mounts and round Hillocks which we see all hereabouts 12 And call Burrows were raised for this purpose and that Ashes Coals Potsherds c. might be found under them if they dug deeper into the ground Earls of Northampton The first Earl that this County had at least that I know of was Waldeof son of the warlike Siward who being also Earl of Huntingdon lost his head for treason against William the Conquerour leaving only two daughters behind him which he had by Judith the Conquerour's niece by a sister on the mother's side The Life 〈…〉 Simon * De S. 〈…〉 Sylvaneciens●● Sinlis being scornfully rejected by Judith the mother upon account of being lame in his legs married Maud the eldest daughter and built St. Andrew's Church and the Castle at Northampton After him succeeded his son Simon 2. who was a long time at law about his mother's estate with David King of Scots his mother's second husband and having sided with King Stephen in the year of our Lord 1152. died with this ‖ Elogia elogy A youth full of every thing that was unlawful every thing that was unseemly His son Simon 3. going on with the suit against the Scots for his right to the Earldom of Huntingdon wasted his whole estate but thro' the favour of King Hen. 2. married the daughter and heir of Gilbert de Gant Earl of Lincoln and having at last recover'd the Earldom of Huntingdon and disseis'd the Scots died issueless in the year 1185. Many years after King Edw. 3. created William de Bohun a person of approved valour Earl of Northampton and when his elder brother Humfrey de Bohun Earl of Hereford and Essex and High Constable of England was not able in that warlike Age to bear the charge of Constable he made him also High Constable of England After him his son Humfrey succeeding in the Earldom of Northampton as also in the Earldoms of Hereford and Essex upon his Uncle's dying issueless had two daughters the one married to Thomas of Woodstock youngest son to King Edw. 3. the other to Henry of Lancaster Duke of Hereford afterwards King of England The daughter of Thomas of Woodstock brought by her marriage this her grandfather's title of Northampton together with others into the family of the Staffords But when they had lost their honours King Edw. 6. honour'd William Par Earl of Essex a most accomplish'd Courtier with the title of Marquiss of Northampton who within our memory died issueless And now while I am upon this work our most serene Sovereign King James in the year of our Lord 1603. at one and the same time has advanced Henry Howard Brother of the last Duke of Norfolk a person of excellent wit and fluent eloquence a complete master of Arts and Sciences exceeding prudent and provident to the degree and stile of Baron Howard of Marnehill and the honour of Earl of Northampton There belong to this Shire 326 Parishes ADDITIONS to NORTHAMPTONSHIRE a THE County of Northampton at the time of the Conquerour's Survey was something larger than now it is For all the south part of Rutlandshire must have been taken out of it because in Domesday-book we meet with the towns in this tract under the title of Northamptonshire 'T is a County so plentiful in all things necessary to life that it does not need nor indeed will allow much of manufacture the ground abundantly maintaining and fully employing the Inhabitants * Full Wor. pag. 279. It is said that of Cloathing has been attempted with great application but at last came to nothing The thinness of it's woods observ'd by our Author and it 's distance from the sea so that no Coal can
come by water makes fuel extreme dear b On the west-side of this Shire is Grafton Grafton which was held in capite by John de S. Mauro or Seymour † An. 14 Edw. 3. by the service of keeping one white Bracket of the King 's having red ears This Bracket seems to have been the same with the ancient Bracco which signify'd those lesser sort of dogs that scent out for game The place hath given the title of Duke to Henry Fitz-Roy Baron of Sudbury Viscount Ipswich and Earl of Euston created Duke of Grafton Sept. 11. 1675. which honours Charles of the same name at present enjoys c The river Avon our Author will have to be the Antona of Tacitus but if the sense of the Historian be as a later writer has interpreted it that Ostorius block'd up the Britains between the rivers Antona and Sabrina it is impossible for any one to fix it here since the Avon and Severn are so far from joyning that they take almost a quite contrary course From the whole series of that Action and the thred of the history 't is much more probable it was that Avon which runs into the Severn as is observ'd in the Additions to Wiltshire LEICESTER SHIRE by Robt. Morden The old town * Le●●ltin MS. had within the walls seven Parish-Churches besides two that were in the Suburbs so that it must have been large and populous About the latter end of Hen. 3. † Full. Hist of Cambr. p. 13. it was made choice of by some scholars of the University of Cambridge for a retirement occasion'd by the quarrels that were then on foot Here they met with many Oxford-men who had come away upon the like occasion and so for a while with the King's leave prosecuted their Studies along with them by which means it had some face of an University 'T is possible enough that the place in this town which was call'd the College might be a remain of their presence here But after three years continuance as appears by the King's Letters it was dissolv'd and express orders given that no one should for the future study there as in an University because as the said Letters intimate it was a manifest damage and inconvenience to the ancient University of Oxford e Within the Demesnes of Boughton Boughton ‖ Full. Wor. p. 280. is a spring which incrustateth wood or any thing that falls into it with a stony substance There was preserv'd in Sidney College in Cambridge a skull brought from thence all over stone both within and without it was sent for by King Charles 1. but was safely return'd to the College f At some distance from hence is Naseby Naseby eminent of late years for the bloody battel fought there in the year 1645. between his Majesty King Char. 1. and the Parliament-Army There are now no signs of a fight remaining except some few holes which were the burying-places of the dead men and horses The town is said by some to stand upon the highest ground in England g The History of Peterburrow Peterburrow is so distinctly deliver'd by our Author and since his time so accurately handl'd in a separate Volume that 't is in vain to attempt any farther discoveries about it We shall only observe what is agreeable to our method and design that it has of late years afforded the title of Earl to John Lord Mordant created Mar. 9.3 Car. 1. who in the year 1643. was succeeded in that honour by Henry Lord Mordant his son h South-west from Braybroke is Sibertoste ●●bertoste which manour Nicholas de Archer in the time of Edw. Edw. 1. 1. held by the Service of carrying the King his bow thro' all the forests in England i Not far from Rockingham is Laxton ●axton wherein there were lands held by the Service of hunting in all the King's forests and parks throughout Oxfordshire 〈◊〉 2 Ed. 2. 〈◊〉 An 4 4. Buckinghamshire Huntingdonshire and this County to destroy all the vermin in each of them And the manour of Hightesley was held upon condition to find dogs for the destruction of wolves foxes c. k Haringworth ●●●ing●●orth which in our Author's time belong'd to the Lords Zouch has been since sold to a Gentleman who has a fair seat at Bullick hard by Only where the great house formerly stood there was a Chapel in which the family of the Zouches were bury'd and that with the monuments therein was reserv'd to the said family But now 't is almost quite ruinated the roof fall'n in some of the walls down and the floor rooted up by hogs l But the most stately seat of these parts is Burghley Burghley a noble pile of stone-building rais'd indeed about a hundred years since by William Lord Burghley but adorn'd and beautify'd by the present Earl of Exeter For loftiness of rooms great variety of pictures terrasses conduits fish-ponds fountains c. it may vie with the best in England The painting and carving are so curious that some travellers have affirm'd they have met with nothing either in Italy or France that exceeds them The park is improv'd by planting a multitude of walks of ash elm chesnut and several other sorts of trees Thro' this park passeth the old Roman way mention'd by our Author and so on to Walcote above Berneck and not beneath as he tells us At Wothorpe a little distance from this the Earl of Exeter hath another handsom seat with a little park wall'd about It was built by Thomas Cecil Earl of Exeter and tho' not very small for after the Restoration it was large enough to hold the late Duke of Buckingham and his family for some years yet so mean did it seem in comparison of the former that its Founder pleasantly said he built it only to retire to out of the dust while his great house of Burleigh was a-sweeping Continuation of the EARLS Henry Howard the last Earl mention'd by our Author having never marry'd and dying 15. June 1614. this honour in the year 1618. was conferr'd upon William Lord Compton Lord President of Wales who was succeeded first by Spenser his son and heir then by James his grandson son and heir to the said Spenser and at present the honour is enjoy'd by George of the same name son to James aforesaid More rare Plants growing wild in Northamptonshire Eryngium vulgare J. B. vulgare Camerarii C. B. mediterraneum Ger. mediterraneum seu campestre Park Common Eryngo This was sent me by Mr. Thornton who observed it not far from Daventry beside the old Roman way called Watlingstreet near a village named Brookhall Gentiana concava Ger. Saponaria concava Anglica C. B. folio convoluto J. B. Anglica folio convoluto Park Hollow-leaved Gentian or rather Sopewort This was first found by Gerard in a small grove of a wood called the Spinney near Lichbarrow Gnaphalium montanum sive Pes cati Park Mountain-Cudweed or
ought not to omit Melton Mowbray Melton near Burton it is a market town so named from the Mowbrays heretofore Lords thereof in which nothing is more worthy our observation than the large and handsome Church k nor Skeffington more remote to the south which as it hath given name to a worshipful family so it hath receiv'd reputation from the same 24 The river that watereth this part of the shire is by the inhabitants about it call'd the Wreken along which upon resemblance of the name I have sought Vernometum but in vain This Wreken gathereth a strong stream by many lively brooks resorting unto it whereof one passeth by Wimondham an ancient habitation of a younger branch of the house of the Lords Barkleis well encreased by an heir of Dela-Laund and so on by Melton Mowbray beforemention'd by Kirkby Bellers where there was a ●riory having that addition of the Bellers a respective rich and noble family in their time by Brokesby a seat now of the Villiers of an old Norman race and descended from an heir of Bellers which Brokesby imparted formerly the sirname to the Brokesbies of especial antiquity in these parts Then the Wreken speedeth by Ratcliffe high mounted upon a cliff and within few miles conjoyneth it self to Soar near unto Mont-Soar-hill beforementioned Whatsoever of this Shire lyeth beyond the Wreken northward is not so frequently inhabited and part of it is call'd the Wold as being hilly without wood wherein Dalby a seat of the old family of the Noels of whom I shall speak elsewhere and Waltham on the Wold a mean market are most notable Through this part as I have been informed passeth the Fesse-way made by the Romans from Lewing Bridge by Segrave which gave sirname to the honourable family often mentioned and the Lodge on the Wold toward the Vale of Bever but the Tract thereof as yet I know not Leicestershire Earls of Leicester has been always famous for it's Earls men of special note And in regard that in the Saxon times the Earls were hereditary I will first name them in their order as I have been inform'd by Thomas Talbot a person very well skill'd in matters of Antiquity out of the King's Records * See a more distinct and critical account of the succession of these Earls in Sir Peter Leicester's Antiquities of Cheshire p. 99. In the time of Aethelbald King of the Mercians in the year of our Redemption 716 Leofric was Earl of Leicester to whom succeeded in a right line Algarus 1. Algarus 2. Leofric 2. Leofstan Leofric 3. who was bury'd at Coventry Algarus 3. who had issue two sons Eadwin Earl of March and Morkar Earl of Northumberland and one daughter Lucy first marry'd to Ivo Talboys of Anjou and afterwards to Roger de Romara by whom she had William de Romara Earl of Lincoln The male line of this Saxon family being thus extinct and the Saxon name in a manner trod under foot Robert de Bellomonte Beaumont a Norman Lord of Pont-Audomar and Earl of Mellent obtain'd on the death of Simon Earl of Leicester a Grant of this County by the favour of King Hen. 1. in the year of Christ 1102. He was a man of great learning 〈◊〉 ●●nt 〈◊〉 Epi●● 〈◊〉 on●●● eloquent subtle prudent and witty but having liv'd in the best quality and bore the greatest honour and at last seeing his wife entic'd from him by another Earl in his old age he became troubled in mind and fell into a deep melancholy To him succeeded his son sirnam'd Bossu 25 Because he was crook-back'd who after he had rebell'd against King Hen. 1. the second he means weary of his loose irregular life became a Canon-Regular for distinction his grandson sirnam'd Blanchemaines 26 Of his lily white hands who sided with the young King against King Hen 2. and dy'd in the expedition of King Rich. 1. to the Holy Land and his great-grandson Fitz-Parnel all Roberts Of which the last who was call'd Fitz-Parnel from his mother Petronilla or Parnel daughter and coheir of the last Hugh Grant-maisnill 27 In whose right he was Seneschal or Steward of England and dy'd issueless in the time of King John dy'd without issue 〈…〉 A few years ter Simon de Montfort descended from a bastard-son of Robert King of France who had marry'd the sister of Robert Fitz-Parnell 〈◊〉 Par. enjoy'd this honour But he and his being expell'd in the year 1200 28 As wholly devoted to the French Ranulph Earl of Chester obtain'd this dignity not by hereditary right but his Prince's favour Yet afterwards Simon de Montfort son of the aforesaid Simon obtained the Earldom Almaric his elder brother having relinquish'd his right before Hen. 3. So great and indulgent was the favour of K. Hen. 3. to this man that he recall'd him from banishment out of France loaded him with riches honour'd him with the County of Leicester 29 Granted to him the Stewardship of England and his own sister in marriage But notwithstanding he was thus overwhelmed with kindnesses he had no sense of gratitude such is the villany of some men but began to hate his benefactor and wickedly occasion'd great troubles to that King who had so highly oblig'd him by blowing up the storms of Civil wars with the rebellious Barons in which himself at last was slain See Eovesham in Worcestershire His honours and possessions were conferr'd by King Hen. 3. on his own younger son Edmund call'd Crouchback Earl of Lancaster From thence this title lay as it were drown'd for a long time among those of the Lancastrian family and Mawd daughter of Henry Duke of Lancaster being married to ſ Holland in his translation says Henry Duke of Bavaria Earl of Hanault c. But 't is a mistake for he was neither Henry nor Duke of Bavaria his elder brother Stephen being Duke of Bavaria after his father and this William the second son Earl of Henault Holland c. which was h●s mother's inheritance And though he might be call'd Duke of Bavaria as in Germany all younger sons if never so many take their fathers title yet not being really such Camden it seems thought it more proper to name him Guilielmus Bavarus Hannoniae c. Comes William of Bavaria Earl of Hanault Holland Zeland c. added to his other titles this also of Leicester In the great Register of the Dutchy of Lancaster For in a Charter of the 35th year of Edw. 3. he is expresly nam'd William Earl of Henhaud and Leicester And accordingly in the Inquisition 36 Edw. 3. she by the name of Dutchess of Bavaria held the Castle Manour and Honour of Leicester Who dying without issue this honour thereupon came to John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster who had marry'd Blanch the second sister of Mawd. From which time it was united to the House of Lancaster until in our remembrance it was reviv'd
I always thought came from the ancient Castilion family of the Earls of St. Paul ● Paul in France but the Coat of Arms of Luxemburgh that they bear is a sign that they came out of France since that Castilion family of St. Paul was by marriage ingrafted into that of Luxemburgh which was about two hundred years ago Above this the Trent the Idell and the Dan as they play along in their several streams thus Frontinus expresses it make a river Island Axelholme in Saxon Eaxelholme which is part of Lincolnshire in length from south to north 10 miles ●●sholm but not past half so broad The lower part near the rivers is marshy and produces an odoriferous shrub call'd Gall 22 It yieldeth also Pets in the mores and dead roots of fir-wood which in burning give a rank sweet savour There also have been found great and long fir-trees while they digg'd for Pet both within the isle and also without at Laughton upon Trent bank the old habitation of the family of Dalanson now contractly call'd Dalison The middle has a small ascent and is both rich and fruitful yielding flax in great abundance and also Alabaster 〈◊〉 which being not very solid is more proper for lime and plaisterwork than for other uses ●●●aster The chief town was formerly call'd Axel now Axey from whence by adding the Saxon word Holme which among them signified a river-island the name without question was compounded It hardly deserves to be call'd a town 't is so thinly inhabited nevertheless there is to be seen a platform of a castle that was demolish'd in the Barons war and belonged to the Mowbrays who at that time had a great part of the island in their possession In the year 1173. Roger de Mowbray as the Author of an old Chronicle has it forsaking his allegiance to the H●●ry ● 〈◊〉 re●● to his 〈◊〉 be ●●g●r Elder King repair'd a Castle formerly demolish'd in the Isle Axelholme near Kinard ferry which Castle a great number of Lincolnshire-men passing over in boats besieged and compell'd the Constable and all the soldiers to surrender and laid it level with the ground A little higher lies Botterwic the owner whereof 23 Sir Edmund Sheffeld Edmund Sheffeld was the first Baron of that family created by Edward the sixth and lost his life for his Country against the Norfolk rebels having by Anne Vere a daughter of the Earl of Oxford John the second Baron father to Edmund who is now Knight of the most noble Order of the Garter 24 President of the Council establish'd in the north More northward on the other side of Trent is Burton Stather of which I have not as yet read any thing remarkable Since Egga who liv'd in the year 710 and Morcar both Saxons that were only Officiary Earls this County has given the title of Earl to William de Romara a Norman Earls of Lincoln after whose death for this title was never enjoy'd by his son who died before him nor by his grandson King Stephen conferr'd it on Gilbert de Gaunt who succeeded him but he dying Simon de St. Licius the younger son of Earl Simon you have the very words of Robert Montensis who lived about that time when he wanted lands 2 Hen. 2. receiv'd from King Henry 2. his only daughter to wife together with his honour Afterwards Lewis of France who was call'd into England by the rebellious Barons created another Gilbert of the de Gaunts family Earl of Lincoln but as soon as Lewis was forc'd away and he found himself acknowledg'd Earl by no man he quitted the title of his own accord Then Ralph the sixth Earl of Chester had this honour granted him by King Henry 3. and a little before his death gave by Charter to Hawise his sister wife of Robert de Quincy the Earldom of Lincoln so far forth as it appertain'd to him that she might be Countess thereof for so are the ve●y words of the Charter She in like manner bestow'd it on John de Lacy Constable of Chester and the heirs he should beget on Margaret her daughter This John begat Edmund who dying before his mother left this honour to be enjoy'd by Henry his son the last Earl of this family For when he lost his sons by untimely deaths he contracted his only daughter Alice when but nine years old to Edmund Earl of Lancaster on condition that if he should dye without issue of his body or if they should dye without heirs of their bodies his Castles Lordships L iger-b●ok of Stanlow c. should come in the remainder to Edmund Earl of Lancaster and his heirs for ever But this Alice having no children by her husband Thomas who was beheaded lost her reputation by her light behaviour for that she without the K.'s consent was married to 25 Sir Eubul Eubulo Le-Strange Edw. 2. with whom she had been formerly somewhat too intimate for which reason the offended King seiz'd her estate 26 Yet both Sir Eubul Strange and Sir Hugh Frene her third husband are in some Records nam'd Earls of Lincoln But Alice being very old and dying without issue Henry Earl of Lancaster grandchild to Edmund by his second son had this her large patrimony by virtue of the aforesaid conveyance and from this time it became the inheritance of the house of Lancaster Nevertheless the Kings of England have conferr'd on several the title of Earl of Lincoln as Edward 4. on 27 Sir John John De-la-pole and Henry 8. on Henry Brandon who were both sons of the Dukes of Suffolk and died without issue Then Qu. Eliz. promoted to this honour See Dukes of Suffolk Edward Baron Clinton Lord High Admiral of England by whose very honourable son Henry 't is at present enjoy'd There are in this County about 630 Parishes ADDITIONS to LINCOLNSHIRE a THE corner of this County where Mr. Camden begins his survey seems formerly to have been a very inconsiderable or rather no part of it For as he observes from the banks there that the sea must once have come something farther so Mr. Dugdale putting Holland in the same number with Marshland in Norfolk and some other maritime places plainly proves that they have been long ago by great industry gain'd from the sea and were for many ages nothing but a vast and deep fen affording little benefit to the nation besides fish or fowl b As to the original of the name I shall not make the least scruple to joyn this and Holland ●●lland in the Netherlands together agreeing so exactly in their situation soil and most other circumstances setting aside the difference of improvements which no doubt are much more considerable in one than the other but are nothing to our purpose so long as the primitive state of both was much the same Mr. Butler's conjecture drawn from the Saxon holt a wood and Ingulphus's Hoilandia which has given
and was at last buried But the wiser sort think that this place took its name from Guy de Beauchamp who liv'd much later And certain it is that Richard de Beauchamp Earl of Warwick built and dedicated here a Chapel to S. Margaret and set up the o Eight foot high Gyant-like statue of the famous Guy still remaining l From Warwick the Avon with a fuller body passes by Charlcott Charlcott the seat of the noble and knightly family of the Lucies which long since hereditarily passed to them from the Charlcotts who out of a pious intent built a Religious house p William de Lucy son of Walter de Charlcott first assum'd this name temp Henr. 3. and built the Religious house for the support and entertainment of poor people and strangers at Thellisford For the brook was call'd Thelley which running by Compton Murdack heretofore belonging to the Murdacks now to the family of the Verneys Knights and thence by this Thellisford falls into Avon Which river within a little way salutes Stratford a pretty handsom market-town that owes its ornaments and beauty chiefly to its two natives John de Stratford Stratford upon Avon Archbishop of Canterbury q The South-Isle was built by him but the Q●ire by T. Balshal and the North and South Cross by the Executors of Hugh Clopton The Church is Collegiate and the College now standing Regist Wigorn. Lel. Itinerar who founded the Church here and Hugh Clopton sometime Lord Mayor of London who at extraordinary expence built the Stone-bridge here over the Avon consisting of 14 arches He was younger brother of an ancient family which took their name from the adjacent manour of Clopton from the time that Walter Cocksfield stil'd Knight-Marshal fix'd his seat here at Clopton for himself and posterity Their inheritance in our time descended to two sisters coheirs one of them married to Sir George Carew a famous Kt. Vice chamberlain to her most serene Majesty Queen Anne whom K. James created Baron Carew of Clopton Baron Carew of Clopton and whom if for no other reason I cannot omit for the great respect he paid to venerable Antiquity m Avon see● nothing more on its banks besides Bitford a small market-town and some little Country villages before it makes its entry into Worcestershire Now let us take a view of the Woodland Woodland which lying on the Northern-side of Avon extends it self into a much greater compass than the Feldon for the most part cloathed with woods yet not wanting pastures or corn-fields and hath several veins of r No veins of iron were ever yet found in this County In the borders of it viz. Worcestershire and Staffordshire there have Iron As it is now call'd the Woodland so by a more ancient name it was call'd Arden Arden which in my opinion are words importing the same thing For Arden with the ancient Britains and Gauls did denote a Wood. And we know in France a vast wood bears the name of Arden and a town in Flanders situated near another wood is call'd Ardenburg and that celebrated forest of England paring off the first syllable retains the name of Den. Not to mention that Diana Diana which in s See Selden's Polyolbion pag. 229. the old Gallick Inscription was call'd Ardwena Ardwena and Ardoina i.e. if I am not much mistaken Sylvestris or Of the woods and was the same that in the Italick Inscriptions is called Nemorensis or Diana of the Groves From this part Turkiil de Arden who resided here and was in great favour with King Henry 1. assumed that sirname and his Descendants the Ardens famous in succeeding ages were branched out into all parts of England On the Western-side of the Woodland the river Arrow n makes hast by Studly Studley some ages since a castle belonging to John son af Corbutio to joyn the river Avon But whether it be so call'd as Tigris a river of Mesopotamia which in the Persian language signifies an Arrow from the swiftness of its current or from its flow course for that the word Ara among the old Britains and Gauls imports I leave to the search of others 5 Who have better observ'd the nature of this river On the banks of Arrow lies Coughton Coughton the chief seat of the family of the Throckmortons Throckmortons Knights who since they married with the heiress of Speney grew very numerous famous and fruitful of good Wits Not far from hence lies Ouseley memorable for the ancient Lords thereof the Butlers Barons of Wem from whom it hereditarily descended to the Ferrars of Ousley Ousley Whose inheritance in a short time was divided betwixt John Lord of Greistocke and Ralph Nevil A little lower upon Arrow is seated Beauchamp's Court Beauchamps Court so called from Baron Beauchamp of Powicke from whom by the only daughter of Edward Willoughby son of Robert Willoughby Lord Brook it came to Sir Fulk Grevill Grevills Kt a person no less esteem'd for the sweetness of his temper than dignity of his station Whose only son of the same name so entirely devoted himself to the study of real Virtue and Honour that the nobleness of his mind far exceeded that of his birth for whose extraordinary favours tho' I must despair of making suitable returns yet whether speaking or silent I must ever preserve a grateful memory Below Beauchamp's-Court the river Alne or Alenus falls into Arrow which in its course through a woody country passes by Henley Henley a litde market town near which the Montforts a noble family of great name had a Castle that from its delightful situation on a hill amidst the woods was call'd by a French name Bell desert But the castle hath long since been buried in its own ruins They derived their pedigree not from the Almarian family of the Montforts but from Turstan de Bastanberg a Norman Their inheritance at length pass'd away by Daughters to the Barons of Sudley and the Frevils Just at the confluence of the two rivers Arrow and Aulne I saw Aulcester Aulcester by Mathew Paris called Allencester and that more properly The inhabitants because it hath been a place of great note and antiquity will needs have the true name to be Ouldeester This was as we read in an old Inquisition a free Burrough of our Lord Henry 1. which the same King gave to Robert Corbet for his service and when the same Robert died it descended to 6 Sir William William de Botereux and to Peter the son of Herbert And when William de Botereux died his Moiety descended to Reginald de Botereux as heir who now holds it A B●●● in the Ex●●equer and when Peter the son of Herbert died his Moiety descended to Herbert the son of Peter which Herbert gave it to Robert de Chaundois 7 But now it is decay'd and of a very great town become a small market of
accounts of his Steward The Castle in the late Civil wars was demolish'd by those that had purchas'd it of the Parliament with design to make money of the materials q In the utmost Northern bound is Sutton-Colefield 〈◊〉 ●olefield where the Earls of Warwick had a Chase of great extent The market is now almost wholly disused and the Bishop of Exeter mention'd by our Author liv'd and dy'd here in the 103. year of his age r Next is Coleshill ●ol●shill where in an old foundation was lately dug up a Roman copper Coin of Trajan's and not far from it Blith ●●●h memorable for nothing but that it was purchas'd by Sir William Dugdale and was his place of residence when he compil'd that accurate and elaborate work his Antiquities of this County s We come next to Coventry Coventry the walls and towers whereof were demolish'd at the Restoration by command of King Charles 2. the gates only left standing by which one may guess at the strength and beauty of the former Edward 4. for their disloyalty took the Sword from the Mayor and seiz'd their Liberties and Franchises which they redeem'd for 500 marks In memory of Leofric who dy'd 13 of Edward the Confessor and Godiva his Countess their pictures were set up in the windows Trinity Church with this Inscription I Lurick for the love of thee Do set Coventry toll-free And a Procession or Cavilcade is still yearly made in memory of Godiva with a naked figure representing her riding on horse-back through the City They have a stately Cross built 33 Hen. 8. by Sir William Hollies sometime Lord Mayor of London for workmanship and beauty inferiour to few in England The City among other things is famous for the two Parliaments held in it the former in the 6 Hen. 4. call'd from the exclusion of the Lawyers Parliamentum indoctorum the latter in the 38 Hen. 6. from the Attainder of Richard Duke of York the Earls of Salisbury Warwick and March call'd by some Parliamentum Diabolicum Since our Author's time it hath afforded the title of Earl to George Villiers created Earl of Coventry and Duke of Buckingham 18. May 21 Jac. 1. in which honours he was succeeded by his son of the same name t From Coventry let us pass to Brinklow Brinklow famous for an ancient castle † Dugd. War p. 147 It is in all probability older than the Norman Conquest otherwise our publick Records or some other Authorities would certainly have taken notice of it If we should carry it back to the times of the Romans there are several circumstances which seem to justifie such a conjecture As the Saxons very often applying their Hleaƿ from whence our low comes to such places as were remarkable for the Roman Tumuli that there is an eminent tumulus upon which the Keep or Watch-tower of the castle did stand that it lies upon the Roman Fosse and is at a convenient distance from the Bennones u Passing hence northward to the river Anker on the western bank thereof we find Manceter Manceter confirm'd to be the ancient Manduessedum by divers coyns of silver and brass which have been by digging and plowing frequently brought to light w In the same Parish is Oldbury Oldbury a place of great antiquity as appears by a Quadrangular Fort containing seven acres of ground In the North-part of it there have been found several flint-stones about four inches in length curiously wrought by grinding or some such way The one end is shap'd like the edge of a Pole-ax and by Sir William Dugdale they are thought to have been weapons us'd by the Britains before the art of making arms of brass and iron They must have been brought hither for some extraordinary use because there are no flints to be found within 40 miles of the place One of them is now to be seen in Ashmole's Musaeum at Oxford x On the other side of the river northward Pollesworth lies Pollesworth where Sir Francis Nethersole a Kentish Gentleman and sometime publick Orator to the University of Cambridge at the instance of his Lady built a Free-school on the front whereof is this Inscription Soli Deo Gloria Schola pauperum Puerorum Puellarum He enseoft six Gentlemen and seven Divines in as much as amounted to 140 l. per annum at the least for a liberal maintenance of a School-master and School-mistress to teach the children of the Parish And what remain'd was to be employ'd in charitable uses such as he in his life time should think fit and in default of his own actually disposing of it left it to the discretion of his Trustees He likewise he built a fair house for the Vicar of Pollesworth y Farther North is Seckinton Seckinton which as it is memorable for the battel between Aethelbald and Beornred so I may further add that it took its name from that engagement secce in Saxon signifying battel and dun which afterwards was chang'd into ton a hill Scarce a furl●ng north of the Church is a notable fort and near it an artificial hill of 43 foot high Continuation of the EARLS Ambrose Dudley the last Earl dying in the year 1589. Robert Lord Rich of Leeze was created Earl of Warwick 16 Jac. 1. and soon after dying was succeeded by his son and grandson both Roberts Charles brother to the latter was next Earl who dying 24 Aug. 1673. left the honour to Robert Rich Earl of Holland his Cousin-german Which Robert was succeeded in both the honours by Edward his son and heir More rare Plants growing wild in Warwickshire Though I have lived some years in this County yet have I met with no peculiar local plants growing therein the more rare and uncommon are Cyperus gramineus miliaceus Ger. Millet-Cyperus-grasse mentioned in Essex Frequent by the river Tames-sides near Tamworth and elsewhere Cyperus longus inodorus sylvestris Ger. Gramen cyperoides altissimum foliis carina serratis P. Boccone Long-rooted bastard Cyperus In boggy places by the river Tame at Dorsthill near Tamworth Equisetum nudum Ger. junceum seu nudum Park foliis nudum non ramosum s junceum C. B. Naked Horse-tail or Shave-grass This species is more rare in England We found it in a moist ditch at Middleton towards Drayton It is brought over to us from beyond Sea and employ'd by artificers for polishing of vessels handles of tools and other utensils it is so hard that it will touch iron it self I am informed by my honoured Friend Mr. John Awbrey that it is to be found in a rivulet near Broad-stitch Abbey in Wiltshire plentifully That sort which grows common with us is softer and will not shave or polish wood much less iron Juncus laevis minor panicula glomerata nigricante call'd by those of Montpellier with whom also it is found Juncus semine Lithospermi Black-headed Rush with Gromil-seed In the same places with the Cyperus longus inodorus Gramen
Bredon hills Bredon hills tho' much lesser than those of Malvern rise with a sort of emulation Upon these appears Elmley Elmley-castle a Castle once belonging to Ursus or Urso d'Abtot by whose daughter and heir Emeline it descended to the Beauchamps At the foot of these hills stands Breodun touching whose Monastery Offa King of the Mercians saith I Offa King of the Mercians will give 35 acres of tributary land to the Monastery which is called Breodun in the Province of the Wiccians and to the Church of St. Peter Prince of the Apostles in that place which my grandfather Eanwulf built to the glory and praise of the everliving God Under Bredon hills to the south lies Washborn VVashborn a village or two which gives the sirname to an ancient and gentile family in these parts They lye in a spot of this County quite severed from the main body And divers other like parcels Parcel 〈◊〉 the Shi● severed from th● rest of t● body lie up and down dispersed the reason I know not unless it were this That the Governours of this County in elder times having estates of their own lying near annex'd them to the County which they govern'd q A little higher runs the river Avon in its way to Severn in this County it waters Eovesham ●●●ham which the Monkish writers tell us had its name from Eoves swineherd to Egwine Bishop of Worcester being formerly called Eath-home 〈…〉 ●●●esham ●●●tery 〈◊〉 the 〈◊〉 1157. and Heath-field a very neat town seated on a gentle ascent from the river Bengworth Castle anciently stood at the bridge-foot as it were in its suburbs which William d'Audeville Abbot recovering from William Beauchamp did utterly demolish and caused the ground to be consecrated for a Churchyard The town is famous for this Monastery which Egwine by the help of King Kenred son of Wolfer King of the Mercians built about the year 700 as also for the Vale of Evesham 〈◊〉 ●●e●ham lying about it and taking its name from the town which for its fruitfulness is justly stiled the Gra●ary of these parts so liberal is the soil in affording the best corn in great abundance In more ancient times this town was very famous for the overthrow of the Barons and of Simon Mountfort E. 〈…〉 of Leicester our English Cataline He being a person of a very bad temper and extremely perfidious taught us by experience the truth of that saying Favours are esteemed obligations no longer than they can be requited For when King Hen. 3. had with a liberal hand heaped all possible favours upon him and given him his own sister to wife he had no other returns from him than most implacable hatred For he raised a most dangerous war and miserably wasted a great part of England under pretence of redressing grievances and asserting its liberties leaving no method unpractis'd whereby he might depose the King and change the government from a Monarchy to an Oligarchy But after he had prospered a while in his enterprize he with many others of his party fell in this place being subdued in a pitch'd battel by the valour of Prince Edward And instantly as tho' the sink of mischiefs had been cleansed a welcome peace which he had banished every where appeared r ●265 Hard by upon the same river lyeth Charleton ●●●on once the estate of a famous Knightly family the Hansacres but now of the Dinlies or Dinglies who being descended of an ancient family of that name in Lancashire came to it by inheritance c The Dinglies continue to this day at Charleton A little lower in the primitive times of our English Church there was another Religious-house then Fleodanbyrig now Fladbury 〈…〉 and near this Pershore in Saxon Periscoran named from the Pear-trees which as that excellent Historian William of Malmesbury informs us Egelward Duke of Dorset a man of a generous spirit and wholly devoted to pious munificence built and finished in K. Edgar's time But alas what vast losses hath it since sustained part the ambition of great men hath seized part is forgotten and lost and a very considerable part of its possessions King Edward and William bestowed on Westminster 5 Then receiveth Avon a riveret from the north upon which stands Hodington a seat of the Winters of which were Robert Winter and his brother Thomas who whenas they were in the Gunpowder Treason c. Dr. Holland having led me to Hadington I cannot pass by Henlip a fair seat of the Abingtons remarkable for the taking of Garnet and Oldcorn two eminent Jesuits concerned in the Powder-Plot who after many days fruitless search were found in a cavity of a wall over a Chimney In the same house was written that obscure Letter to the Lord Mounteagle by Mrs. Abingdon his sister which gave some light into the horrid design The present owner Thomas Abingdon Esquire hath in his hands a large description of Worcestershire written by his grandfather an able and industrious Antiquary the publication whereof hath been impatiently expected from him above these 20 years Hence Avon runs smoothly down by Strensham d Strensham is still enjoyed by the same family a seat of the Russels an ancient family of the degree of Knights and so dischargeth it's waters into Severn Hereabouts in the south part of the Shire lies Oswalds-law-hundred ●●●ds 〈◊〉 hun●●ed so called from Oswald Bishop of Worcester who obtained it of Edgar the immunities whereof are thus registred in the Survey of England which William the Conquerour made The Church of St. Mary in Wircester hath a Hundred called Oswalds-low in which lye 300 Hide-land where the Bishop of this Church hath by very long prescription all the Services and customary duties pertaining to the Lords Pourveyance the King's service and his own so that no Sheriff may hold a Court there in any plea or other cause whatsoever This is attested by the whole County s There is a place somewhere in this County but not certainly known called Augustines-ac i.e. Augustine's Oak at which Augustine the Apostle of the English and the British Bishops met and having for some time disputed about the keeping of Easter preaching Gods word to the English A. D. 60● and administring the Sacrament of Baptism after the rites of the Church of Rome in conclusion both sides went away dissatisfied t This Province after the Norman Conquest had for its first Sheriff Urso d'Abtot Earls of VVorcester D. Abtot to whom and his heirs King William 1. gave large possessions together with that honour Roger his son succeeded him who as William of Malmesbury reports enjoyed his father's possessions and was divested of them falling under the heavy displeasure of King Henry 1. because in a furious passion he had commanded one of the King's Officers to be put to death But this dignity of Sheriff by Emeline Sister to this Roger descended to the family of the Beauchamps
which rose out of the ruins of it One of those things which argue the Antiquity of the place intimates it to be of a much more early date The Coyns I mean discover'd there some whereof are of gold tho' but rarely found some of stone red green blue c. others of silver very commonly met with and the rest of brass copper and mix'd metals They are call'd by the inhabitants Dynders and are so worn and decay'd that there is not one in ten found the Inscription whereof is perfectly legible or the Image distinguishable Now amongst all these as I have the account from a person who has been an eye-witness there is not one but what is Roman from whence we may infer that the destruction of this city was before the coming over of the Saxons or at latest in their wars with the Britains for if it had continu'd till the Danish times there would certainly have been some of the Saxon Coyns mixt amongst the Roman And the Saxon name Wrekenceaster from whence the present Wroxeter flows perhaps may imply that it was when they came ƿpaeced that is wrack'd and destroy'd unless we say that this name is moulded out of the old Uriconium THE COUNTY PALATINE OF CHESTER By Rob. t Morden As to the urns there have several of them been found whole in the memory of man when they have had occasion to dig 3 or 4 foot deep in their sandy land For as the dead corps here bury'd are in red clay so are their urns lodg'd in a red sand h Our Author observes that Watlingstreet went over a bridge a little way from the City And 't is true there is yet discernable in the bottom of the Severn at low-water the foundation of a stone-work which is probably enough the remains of a bridge But certainly the road went through the midst of the City and so through the ford now call'd Wroxeter-ford as is yet plainly to be discover'd by the old Strait-way pointing exactly upon it on each side of the river ●●ews●●y i At some distance from hence is Shrewsbury the Castle whereof our Author observes to be built upon a rock and at the bottom of it's foundation it may be so but the bank appears outwardly to be nothing but a soft mould for the most part sandy k And he farther takes notice that in Hen. 1.'s time that part was wall'd which was not secur'd by the river Now it is wall'd quite round though not very strongly and where the river does not fence it i.e. on the neck of the Peninsula is the Castle built l The School that is now there is a fair stately stone building erected and endow'd by Qu. Eliz. having one Master and three Under-Masters with a very good Library The Buildings and Library are not inferiour to many Colleges in the Universities besides which there are very good houses for the Schoolmasters belonging to it At about 4 or 5 miles distance at a place call'd Grinshill there is another School-house built of the same white stone whither the Masters and Scholars may repair in case any contagious distemper or other cause should render it unsafe for them to stay in the town m About Rossal not far from this place our Author mentions the Flotes but these are seldom seen of late Here is much us'd by the fishermen a small thing call'd a Coracle ●racle in which one man being seated will row himself with incredible swiftness with one hand whilst with the other he manages his net angle or other fishing-tackle It is of a form almost oval made of split Sally-twigs interwoven round at the bottom and on that part next the water cover'd with a horse-hide It is about 5 foot in length and 3 in breadth and is so light that coming off the water they take them upon their backs and carry them home n Upon the eastern border of this County is Oswestre Oswestre where as † Itin. MS. Leland has left it is S. Oswald's Church a very fair-leaded building with a tower'd Steeple but it stands without the new gate so that no Church is within the town It was sometime a Monastery call'd the White minster and was afterwards turn'd to a Parish-Church o About a mile from Oswestre is Caerhendinas Caerhendinas ‖ Aubrey's Monumenta Britan. MS. a hill every way rising the form whereof is an oblong square encompass'd with three great works one higher than another The space within is about seven acres and the tradition is that this place was the last retreat of the Britains Continuation of the EARLS Gilbert dying without issue-male was succeeded in this honour by Edward his brother but he too dy'd without issue surviving and the chief branch of this noble family being thus extinct George Talbot of Grafton in Worcestershire lineal heir to Sir Gilbert Talbot second son to the famous John succeeded who dying also without issue his Nephew John Talbot succeeded Earl of Shrewsbury he dying left Francis his eldest son Earl of Shrewsbury father to this present Charles who is lately created Duke of Shrewsbury and Marquess of Alton More rare Plants growing wild in Shropshire Gramen juncoides lanatum alterum Park Juncus Alpinus capitulo lanuginoso sive Schoenolaguros C. B. Hares-tail-Rush On Ellesmeer meers in great abundance This is the same with the Gramen junccum montanum subcaeruleâ spicâ Cambrobritannicum of Parkinson who makes two Plants of one it is also the Gramen plumosum elegans Phyt. Brit. Persicaria siliquosa Ger. Codded Arsmart or Touch-me-not On the banks of the river Kemlett at Marington in the Parish of Cherbury also at Guerndee in the Parish of Cherstock half a mile from the foresaid river among great Alder-trees in the high-way Ger. p. 446. Rosmarinum sylvestre minus nostras impropriè dictum cùm Cistiledon dicti potiùs species sit Quidam ad Ericas referunt At Birch in the moors of Ellesmeer plentifully It grows in all the Countries near viz. Cheshire Lancashire c. in mosses and boggy places CHESHIRE THE fifth and last part of these Counties formerly possessed by the Cornavii is the County of Chester in Saxon Cestre-scyre now commonly Cheshire and the County Palatine of Chester 〈…〉 for the Earls of it had a certain Palatine Jurisdiction belonging to them and all the inhabitants held of them as in chief and were under a soveraign allegiance and fealty to them as they to the King As for the word Palatine that I may repeat what I have said already of it it was common to all formerly that had any office in the King's Court or Palace 〈◊〉 P●●●● in 〈◊〉 D●scr 〈◊〉 C●●m●● 〈◊〉 and in that age Comes Palatinus was a title of dignity conferr'd upon him who had before been Palatinus with an authority to hear and determine causes in his own territory and as well the Nobles whom they call'd Barons as the Vassals were bound to frequent the Palace of the
indebted for the description of it It lay with the Inscription downward upon a stone two foot square which is suppos'd to have been the Pedestal of it the foundation lay deep and broad consisting of many large stones The earth about it was solid but of several colours and some ashes were mixt in it About the foundation were found signs of a Sacrifice the bones horns and heads of several creatures as the Ox Roe-buck c. with these two coyns I. Brass On the first side Imp. Caes. Vespasian Aug. Cos. 111. and the face of the Emperour On the reverse Victoria Augusti S. C. and a winged Victory standing II. Copper On the first side Fl. Val. Constantius Nob. C. and the face of Constantius On the reverse Genio populi Romani A Genius standing holding a bowl us'd in sacrifices in the right hand and a Cornucopia in the left Our Antiquary tells us that presently after the Norman-Conquest the Episcopal See was translated hither from Lichfield and this is the reason why the Bishops of Lichfield are sometimes call'd by our Historians Bishops of Chester and Peter who translated it is by our Saxon Annals call'd Episcopus Licifeldensis sive Cestrensis Bishop of Lichfield or Chester d Leaving this ancient city the next thing that offers it self is Wirall Wirall call'd by the Saxon Annals Wirheale and by Matthew Westminster more corruptly Wirhale * Burton Itinerar p. 129. which the same Mattthew confounds with Chester making them one place This error proceeded from the misunderstanding of that passage in the Saxon Chronicle hie gedydon on anre pestre ceastre on Wirhealum sio is Legaceastre gehaten i.e. They abode in a certain Western city in Wirheale which is call'd Legaceaster The latter part of the sentence he imagin'd had referr'd to Wirheale whereas it is plainly a farther explication of the Western-city e From the Western parts of this County let us pass to the Eastern where upon the river Dane is Congleton the ancient Condatum of Antoninus according to our Author Mr. Burton Mr. Talbot and others Wherever it was it seems probable enough as Mr. † Comment upon the I●inerar p. 124. Burton has hinted that it came from Condate in Gaul famous for the death of S. Martin For ‖ D● Bell. G●ll. l. 5. Caesar expresly tells us that even in his time they translated themselves out of that part of Gaul into Britain and that after they were settl'd they call'd their respective cities after the name of those wherein they had been born and bred Whether any remains of Roman Antiquities that have been discover'd at Congleton induc'd our Antiquaries to fix it there is uncertain since they are silent in the matter but if the bare affinity of names be their only ground supposing the distances would but answer there might be some reason to remove it into the Bishoprick of Durham wherein at Consby near Percebridge was dug up a Roman Altar very much favouring this conjecture The draught and inscription of it with the remarks upon them shall be inserted in their proper place More towards the North lies Maclesfield where in a Chapel or Oratory on the South-side of the Parochial Chapel and belonging to Peter Leigh of Lyme Esq as it anciently belong'd to his Ancestors in a brass Plate are the verses and following account of two worthy persons of this family Here lyeth the body of Perkin A Legh That for King Richard the death did dye Betrayed for righteousness And the bones of Sir Peers his sonne That with King Henry the fifth did wonne In Paris This Perkin served King Edward the third and the Black Prince his son in all their wars in France and was at the Battel of Cressie and had Lyme given him for that service And after their deaths served King Richard the second and left him not in his troubles but was taken with him and beheaded at Chester by King Henry the fourth And the said Sir Peers his sonne served King Henry the fifth and was slain at the battel of Agen-court In their memory Sir Peter Legh of Lyme Knight descended from them finding the said old verses written upon a stone in this Chapel did reedifie this place An. Dom. 1626. On the other side of the same Parochial Chapel in an Oratory belonging to the right honourable Thomas Earl Rivers is this Copy of a Pardon grav'd in a brass Plate The pardon for saying of v pater nosters and v aves and a ...... is xxvi thousand yeres and xxvi dayes of pardon Another brass Plate in the same Chapel has this ancient Inscription Orato pro animabus Rogeri Legh Elizabeth uxoris suae qui quidem Rogerus obiit iiii die Novembris Anno Domini M. v. c. vi Elizabeth verò obiit v o die Octobris An. Domini Mcccclxxxix quorum animabus propitietur Deus This town of Macclesfield hath given the title of Earl to the Gerrards the first whereof invested with that Honour was Charles created Earl of this place 31 Car. 2. who being lately dead is now succeeded by his son and heir The more rare Plant yet observ'd to grow in Cheshire is Cerasus avium fructu minimo cordiformi Phyt. Brit. The least wild Heart Cherry-tree or Merry-tree Near Stock-port and in other places Mr. Lawson could observe no other difference between this and the common Cherry-tree but only in the figure and smallness of the fruit HEREFORD-SHIRE By Robt. Morden SILURES IT seems most adviseable before we go to the other parts of England to take a round into Cambria or Wales still possest by the posterity of the old Britains Tho' I cannot look upon this as a digression but a pursuing of the natural course of things For this tract is spread out along by the sides of the Cornavii and seems to have a right to be consider'd here as in its proper place Especially seeing the British or Welsh the Inhabitants of these parts enjoy the same laws and privileges with us and have been this long time as it were engrafted into our Government Wales Wales therefore which formerly comprehended all that lies beyond the Severn but has now narrower bounds was formerly inhabited by three People the Silures Silures the Dimetae Dimetae and the Ordovices Ordovices To these did not only belong the twelve Counties of Wales but also the two others lying beyond the Severn Herefordshire and Monmouthshire now reckon'd among the Counties of England To take them then as they lye the Silures as we gather from Ptolemy's description of them inhabited those Countries which the Welsh call by one general name Deheubarth i.e. the Southern part at this day brancht into the new names of Herefordshire Radnorshire Brecknockshire Monmouthshire and Glamorganshire within which compass there are still some remains of the name Silures As to the derivation of the word I can think of none that will answer the nature of the Country but as to the original of
room William the son of Osbern of Crepon or as the Normans call'd him Fitz-Osbern a person very nearly allied to the Dukes of Normandy He being slain in the 4 Assisting the Earl of Flanders wars in Flanders was succeeded by his son Roger sirnam'd de Bretevill who died 5 Condemn'd to perpetual prison for a Conspiracy against the Conquerour out-law'd Proscriptus leaving no legitimate issue Then King Stephen restor'd to Robert le Bossu Earl of Leicester 6 Who had marry'd Emme or Itta heir of Bretevill son of Emme de Bretevill's heir I speak out of the original it self the Borough of Hereford and the Castle and the whole County of Hereford to descend by inheritance but to no purpose For Maud the Empress who contended with Stephen for the Crown advanced Miles the son of Walter Constable of Glocester to that honour and 7 Also granted to him Constabulariam Curiae suae the Constableship of her Court whereupon his posterity were Constables of England as the Marshalship was granted at the first by the name of Magistratus ●lariscal●iae C●riae nostrae made him high Constable of England Constables of England Nevertheless King Stephen afterwards divested him of these honours This Miles had five sons Roger Walter Henry William and Mahel all persons of great note and who died untimely deaths after they had all but William succeeded one another in their father's inheritance having none of them any issue King Henry amongst other things gave to Roger The Mote of Hereford with the whole Castle Girald Cambriae Itin. l. 1. c. 2. and the third penny of the revenues of the Pleas of the whole County of Hereford whereof he made him Earl But upon Roger's death if we may credit Robert Montensis the same King kept the Earldom of Hereford to himself Margaret the eldest sister of these was married to Humphrey Bohun the third of that name and his Posterity were High Constables of England viz. Humphrey Bohun the fourth Henry his son 2 Par. Chart. An. 1 Reg. Joan. Matth. Paris Lib Waldensis Lib. Monasterii Lanthony to whom King John granted Twenty pound to be received yearly of the third penny of the County of Hereford whereof he made him Earl This Henry married the sister and heir of William Mandevill Earl of Essex and died in the fourth year of King Henry the third Humphrey the fifth his son who was also Earl of Essex and had Humphrey the sixth who died before his father having first begot Humphrey the seventh upon a daughter and one of the heirs of William Breos Lord of Brecknock His son Humphrey the eighth was slain at Boroughbrigg leaving by Elizabeth his wife daughter of King Edward the first and dowager of the Earl of Holland a numerous issue viz. John Bohun Humphrey the ninth both Earls of Hereford and Essex who dyed issueless and William Earl of Northampton who had by Elizabeth 8 Daughter sister and one of the heirs of Giles Lord Badlesmer Humphrey Bohun the tenth and last of the Bohuns Earl of Hereford Essex and Northampton as also Lord High Constable of England He left two daughters Eleanor the wife of Thomas de Woodstock Duke of Glocester and Mary married to Henry of Lancaster Earl of Derby Henry 〈◊〉 four●● 〈◊〉 of E●g●●●● who was created Duke of Hereford and was afterwards crowned King of England After this the Staffords Dukes of Buckingham had the title of Earls of Hereford who were descended from a daughter of Thomas of Woodstock which daughter was afterwards married to William Bourchier called Earl of Ew But in our memory King Edward the sixth honour'd Walter D'Eureux descended by the Bourchiers from the Bohuns with the title of Viscount Hereford whose grandchild by a son was afterwards created Earl of Essex by Queen Elizabeth This County contains 176 Parishes ADDITIONS to HEREFORDSHIRE a THE County of Hereford being as it were a Frontier in all the wars between the English and Welsh has upon that account been very remarkable for its number of Forts and Castles no fewer than 28. the greatest part whereof have now little to show beside the name Our Author observes it to be a very good Corn-Country but its present peculiar eminence is in Fruits of all sorts which give them an opportunity particularly of making such vast quantities of Syder as not only to serve their own families for 't is their general drink but also to furnish London and other parts of England their Red-streak from a sort of Apple they call so being exrtemely valu'd b Upon the river Wye two miles from Hereford is Eaton-wall Eaton * Aubr MS. a Camp containing about thirty or forty acres The works of it are single except a little on the West-side And about two miles from hence and a mile from Kenchester is Creden-hill upon which is a very great Camp and mighty works the graff here is inwards as well as outwards and the whole contains by estimation about forty acres c Near which is Kenchester Kenchester † Blome where about the year 1669. was found in a wood a great vault with tables of plaster in it The vault it self was pav'd with stone and thereabouts were dug up also many pieces of Roman Coins with large Bones leaden Pipes several Roman Urns with ashes in them and other vessels the use whereof was unknown d A little lower stands its daughter Hereford Hereford in which name our Author would find some remains of the old Ariconium whereas it is of a pure Saxon original implying no more than a ford of the army nor ought the vulgar's pronouncing it Hariford be of any weight when it appears by * See the Glossary and the several places wherein 't is mention'd our most ancient Annals that it was constantly written hereford Which interpretation doth also suit the situation of the place exceeding well the Severn being for many hundreds of years the frontier between two Nations almost always at war e Leland † Itinerar MS. has told us that the Castle by the ruins appear'd to have been one of the fairest largest and strongest in all England The walls were high firm and full of great towers and where the river was not a sufficient defence for it there it was strongly ditch'd It had two wards each of them surrounded with water the dungeon was high and exceeding well fortify'd having in the outward wall or ward ten towers of a semici●cular figure and one great tower in the inner ward As to the building of it the s●me Leland has left us what tradition was on foot in his time without taking any notice of our Author's Earl Milo Some think says he that Heraldus ●gan this Castle after that he had conquer'd the rebellion of the Welshmen in King Edward the Confessor's time Some think that the Lacies Earls of Hereford were the great makers of it and the Bohuns Earls of Hereford
which he holdeth of the said Aimar 's inheritance so fully and after the same manner as the same Aimar had and held them at the time of his death c. Witness the King at Montmartin the 13th day of October and the 13th year of his reign This Lawrence Hastings was succeeded by his son John who being taken by the Spaniards in a sea-fight and afterwards redeem'd died in France in the year 1375. To him succeeded his son John who was kill'd in a Tournament at Woodstock Anno 1391. 11 By Sir John St. John casually And it was observ'd of this family I know not by what fate that no father ever saw his son for five generations He leaving no issue several considerable Revenues devolv'd to the Crown and the Castle of Penbroke was granted to Francis At-court a courtier of that time in great favour who upon that account was commonly call'd Lord of Penbroke 12 Not long after Humfrey son to K. Hen. 4. before he was Duke of Glocester receiv'd this title of his brother K. Hen. 5. and before his death K. Hen. 6. granted the same in reversion a thing not before heard of to William de la Pole Earl of Suffolk after whose downfall the said King when he had enabl'd Edmund of Hadham and Jasper of Hatfield the sons of Queen Catharine his mother to be his lawful half-brethren created Jasper Earl of Penbroke and Edmund Earl of Richmond with pre-eminence to take place above all Earls For Kings have absolute authority in dispensing honours And not long after John Duke of Bedford and after him his brother Humfrey Duke of Glocester the sons of K. Hen. 4. obtain'd the same title After that William de la Pole was made Marquis of Penbroke upon whose decease K. Hen. 6. created Jasper de Hatfield his brother by the mother's side Earl of Penbroke who being afterwards divested of all honours by K. Hen. 4. was succeeded by 13 Sir William Herbert for his good service against Jasper in Wales William Herbert who was kill'd in the battel at Banbury To him succeeded a son of the same name whom Edw. 4. having recover'd his Kingdom created Earl of Huntingdon conferring the title of Earl of Penbroke on his eldest son Edward Prince of Wales A long time after that King Hen. 8. entitled Anne of Bullen whom he had betrothed Marchioness of Penbroke 14 With a Mantle and Coronet in regard both of her Nobility and also her Vertues for so ran the words of the Patent At last King Edw. 6. in our memory invested 15 Sir William William Herbert Lord of Caer-Diff with the same title He was succeeded by his son Henry who was President of Wales under Queen Elizabeth And now his son William a person in all respects most accomplish'd enjoys that honour Origin of the Herberts This family of the Herberts is very noble and ancient in these parts of Wales For they derive their pedigree from Henry Fitz-Herbert Chamberlain to K. Hen. 1. who marry'd that King's ‖ Amasiam Concubine Reginald Earl of Cornwal's mother as I am inform'd by Mr. Robert Glover a person of great insight in Genealogies by whose untimely decease Genealogical Antiquities have suffer'd extreamly Parishes in this County 145. ADDITIONS to PENBROKSHIRE a THAT our Author hath justly represented the Flemings to be a warlike and industrious Nation is very evident as well from the account we have of them in History as that they have maintain'd their Territories to be distinguishable from the Welsh even to this day But that all Wales with united Forces hath several times invaded their Country and that without success seems a more honourable character of them than we find in other Historians I shall therefore transcribe what Dr. Powel hath deliver'd upon this occasion in his * p. 277. History of Wales In the year 1217. Prince Lhewelyn ap Gorwerth marched to Dyved and being at Kevn Kynwarchan the Flemings sent to him to desire a peace but the Prince would not grant them their request Then young Rŷs was the first that pass'd the river Kledheu to fight with those of the town of Haverford whereupon Gorwerth Bishop of St. Davids with all his Clergy came to the Prince to intercede for peace in behalf of the Flemings which after long debating was thus concluded First That all the Inhabitants of Ros and the Land of Penbroke should become the Prince's subjects and ever from thence-forth take him for their liege Lord. Secondly That they should pay him 1000 Marks toward his charges before Michaelmas next coming Thirdly That for the performance of these they should deliver forthwith to the Prince twenty Pledges of the best in all the Country c. And again p. 279. In the year 1220. Lhewelyn Prince of Wales led an Army to Penbroke against the Flemings who contrary to their Oath and League had taken the Castle of Aber Teivi which Castle the Prince destroy'd putting the Garison to the sword ras'd the Castle and went thence to the Land of Gwys where he ras'd that Castle and burn'd the Town Also he caus'd all Haverford to be burn'd to the Castle-gates and destroy'd all Ros and Daugledhau and they that kept the Castle sent to him for Truce till May which was concluded upon Conditions and so he return'd home b As to the ancient name of S. Davids there is not far from it a place at this day call'd Melin Meneu wherein is preserv'd the old denomination But the original signification of the word Meneu is now lost and perhaps not to be retriev'd However I would recommend it to the curious in Ireland and Scotland where the names of places agree much with those in Wales to consider whether it may not signifie a Frith or narrow Sea for we find the Chanel betwixt Caernarvonshire and the Isle of Anglesey to be call'd Abermeneu and that there is here also a small Fretum call'd the Sound betwixt this place and the Isle of Ramsey and another place call'd Meney by a Frith in Scotland in the County of Buquhan c Besides the instance of the Sea-sands being washt off we find the same to have happen'd about the year 1590. For Mr. George Owen who liv'd at that time and is mention'd by our Author as a learned and ingenious person gives us the following account of it in a Manuscript History of this County About twelve or thirteen years since it happen'd that the Sea-sands at Newgal which are cover'd every tide were by some extraordinary violence of the Waves so washed off that there appeared stocks of Trees doubtless in their native places for they retain'd manifest signs of the stroaks of the ax at the falling of them The Sands being washed off in the winter these Buts remain'd to be seen all the summer following but the next year the same were cover'd again with the Sands By this it appeareth that the Sea in that place hath intruded upon the
the liver and spleen and the late Dr. Owen assured me that he found relief from it in the acutest fits of the stone Upon the death of William Herbert Earls continued the last Earl mention'd by our Author the honour of Earl of Pembroke descended to Philip Herbert who was also Earl of Montgomery and was succeeded by Philip his son After whose death William his son and heir succeeded and upon his death Philip Herbert half-brother to the last William At present Thomas of the same name enjoys the titles of Earl of Pembroke and Montgomery CARDIGANSHIRE THE shores being obliquely driven back towards the east from Octopitarum or St. David's promontory receive the sea into a vast bay much of the form of a half-moon on which lies the third Region of the Dimetae call'd by the English Cardiganshire in British Sir Aber Teivi and by Latin Writers Ceretica If any suppose it denominated from King Caratacus ●●●g Cara●●●●● his conjecture may seem to proceed rather from a fond opinion of his own than any authority of the Ancients And yet we read that the same renowned Prince Caratacus rul'd in these parts On the west towards the sea it is a champain country as also to the south where the river Teivi divides it from Caer-Mardhin-Shire But towards the east and north where it borders on Brecknock and Montgomeryshire there is a continued ridge of mountains but such as afford good pasturage for sheep and cattel in the valleys whereof are spread several lakes or natural ponds That this country was peopl'd formerly not with cities but small cottages may be gathered from that saying of their Prince Caratacus who when he was a captive at Rome having view'd the splendour and magnificence of that city said ●●●●ras Seeing you have these and such like noble structures why do you covet our small cottages a However let us take a slight view of such places as are of any noted Antiquity 〈…〉 ●●●er 〈◊〉 The river Teivi call'd by Ptolemy Tuerobius corruptly for Dwr Teivi which signifies the Teivi water springs out of the lake Lhyn Teivi under the mountains already mention'd At first 't is retarded by the rocks and rumbling amongst the stones without any chanel takes its course through a very stony country near which the Mountaneers have at Ros a very great Fair 〈◊〉 F●ir for cattel to Stratfleur ●●r●●●r ●●●a f●o●● a Monastery heretofore of the Cluniack Monks encompass'd on all sides with high mountains From hence being receiv'd into a chanel it runs by Tre ' Gâron ●●e ' Gâ●●n 〈◊〉 Phe●●●●● and by Lhan Dhewi Brêvi a Church dedicated to the memory of St. David Bishop of Menevia and thence denominated Where in a full Synod he confuted the Pelagian heresie at that time reviving in Britain and that not only out of sacred Scripture but likewise by miracle for 't is reported that the ground on which he stood preaching mounted up to a hillock under his feet b Thus far and farther yet the river Teivi runs southward to Lhàn-Bedr ●●●●-Bedr a small market-town From whence directing it's course to the west it makes a broader chanel and falling over a steep precipice a near Kil-Garan ●●●-Garan makes that Salmon-Leap I have already mention'd in Penbrokeshire For this river abounds with Salmon and was formerly the only river in Britain as Giraldus supposed that bred Beavers ●●●vers A Beaver is an amphibious animal having it's fore-feet like a dog's but footed behind like a goose of a dark gray colour and having an oblong flat cartilagineous tail which in swimming it makes use of to steer it's course Giraldus makes several remarks upon the subtilty of this creature but at this time there are none of them found here c Scarce two miles from this Kîl-Gâran lies Cardigan Cardigan call'd by the Britains Aber Teivi i.e. Teivi-mouth the chief town of this County fortified by Gilbert the son of Richard Clare but being afterwards treasonably surrender'd it was laid waste by Rhŷs ap Gryffydh and the Governour Robert Fitz-Stephen Fitz Steven whom some call Stephanides taken prisoner who after he had remain'd a long time at the devotion of the offended Welsh for his life was at length releas'd but compell'd to resign into their hands all his possessions in Wales Whereupon he made a descent into Ireland though with a small army yet very successfully and was the first of the Normans who by his valour made way for the English-Conquest of that Kingdom From the mouth of Teivi the shore gradually retiring is wash'd by several rivulets Amongst them that which Ptolemy calls Stuccia Stuccia or the river Ystwyth at the upper end of the County deserves our notice the name whereof is still preserv'd by the common people who call it Ystwyth Near the source of this river there are Lead-mines d and where it is discharged into the sea is the most populous town of this whole County call'd Aber-Ystwyth which was also fortified with walls by the above-mention'd Gilbert Clare and defended a long time by Walter Beck an Englishman against the Welsh Not far from hence lies Lhan-Bàdarn-Vawr i.e. Great St. Patern's who as we read in his life was an Armorican and govern'd the Church here by feeding and fed it by governing To whose memory a Church and Bishop's See was here consecrated but the Bishoprick as Roger Hoveden writes fell to decay long since for that the people had most barbarously slain their Pastor At the same place the river Rheidiol Rheidiol also casts it self into the Ocean having taken it's course from that very high and steep hill Plin-Lhymmon which terminates the north part of the County and pours forth besides this those two noble rivers we have already mention'd Severn and Wye Not very far from Aber-ŷstwyth the river Dŷvy the boundary betwixt this County and Merionydhshire is also discharg'd into the Ocean The Normans had scarce setled their conquest in Britain when they assail'd this coast with a navy and that with good success For in the time of William Rufus they wrested the sea coasts by degrees out of the Welshmen's hands but granted most part of it to Kadŵgan ap Blèdhyn a most prudent Britain Lords of Cardigan a person of great interest throughout Wales and at the same time in much favour with the English But This Salmon-Leap is not at Kil-Garan but between Kennarth and Lhan Dugwydh his son Owen proving a rash young man and a hater of Peace and annoying the English and Flemmings who had lately settled there with continual excursions the unhappy father was depriv'd of his Inheritance and forced to suffer for the offences of his son who was also himself constrain'd to leave his native Country and to flee into Ireland King Henry the first granted this County of Cardigan to Gilbert Clare who planted Garisons therein and fortified several Castles But Kadŵgan with his son Owen being
question but this was the very c Dr. G●le gives us a note upon this passage in Ptolemy which must be wrong printed 'T is this Salutarem sinum male MS. Seld. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Which ought to be thus pointed Salutatem sinum male MS. c. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Gabrantovicorum G●b●●●v● a people that liv'd in this neighbourhood n Near this is Bridlington a town famous for John de Bridlington a Monkish Poet d There is no such thing One might as well say as some do that the Caledonian woods are still plentifully stockt with Wild-bears Both these kinds are long since wholly destroy'd in that Kingdom See Sir Robert Sibbald's Nuntius Scoto-Brit part 2. p. 9. whose rhyming prophecies which are altogether ridiculous I have seen o Not far from hence for a great way towards Drifield there was a ditch drawn by the Earls of Holderness to divide the Lands which was call'd Earls-dike But why this small People were call'd Gabrantovici I dare not so much as guess unless perhaps it was deriv'd from Goats which the Britains call'd Gaffran whereof there are not greater numbers in any part of Britain than in this place Nor is this derivation to be lookt upon as absurd seeing the Aegira in Achaia has its name from Goats Nebrodes in Sicily from Deer and Boeotia in Greece from Oxen. The little Promontory that by its bending makes this Bay is commonly call'd Flamborough-head 〈◊〉 but by Saxon Authors Fleam-burg who write that Ida the Saxon who first subdu'd these parts arriv'd here Some think it took its name from a Watch-tower to set out Lights whereby Mariners might discern that Harbour For the Britains still retain the provincial word Flam and the Mariners paint this Creek with a flaming-head in their Sea-Charts Others are of opinion that this name came into England out of Angloen in Denmark the ancient Seat of the Angli for there is a town call'd Flemsburg from which they think the English gave it that name as the Gauls according to Livy nam'd Mediolanum in Italy from the town Mediolanum they had left in Gaul For the little village in this Promontory is call'd Flamborough ●●●bo●●gh which gives original to another noble family of Constables as they call them which by some are deriv'd from the Lacies ●ables ●●ambo●●gh Constables of Chester p Upon my enquiries in these parts I heard nothing of those Rivers call'd Vipseis ●●eis which Walter de Heminburgh tells us flow every other year from unknown Springs and with a great and rapid current run by this little Promontory to the Sea However take what William of Newborough who was born there has said of them These famous waters commonly call'd Vipseis spring from the earth at several sources not incessantly but every other year and having made a pretty large current through the lower grounds run into the Sea and when they are dry'd 't is a good sign For the flowing of them is truly said to forbode the misery of an approaching famine q As the Sea winds it self back from hence a thin slip of land like a small tongue when 't is thrust out shoots into the Sea such as the old English call'd File from which the little village Filey takes its name More inward stands Flixton where a Hospital was built in the time of Athelstan for defending Travellers as it is word for word in the * Regiis Archivit Publick Records from Wolves that they should not be devoured by them This shews us that in those times Wolves Wolves infested this tract which now are to be met with in no part of England not so much as in the frontiers of Scotland altho' they are very numerous in that Kingdom This small territory of Holderness was given by William the first to Drugo de Bruerer a Fleming Earls of Albemarle and Holderness Genealogiae Antiquae upon whom also he had bestow'd his niece in marriage but she being poison'd by him and he forc'd to fly for his life was succeeded by Stephen the son of Odo Lord of Albemarle in Normandy descended from the family of the Earls of Champaigne whom William the first who was his nephew by a half sister on the mother's side is said to have made Earl of Albemarle and his posterity retain'd that title in England notwithstanding Albemarle be a place in Normandy He was succeeded by his son William sirnam'd † Le Gross Crassus His only daughter Avis was married to three husbands successively to William Magnavill Earl of Essex to Baldwin de Beton and to William Forts or de Fortibus By this last husband only she had issue William who left also a son William to succeed him His only daughter Avelin being married to Edmund ‖ Gibbosus Crouchback Earl of Lancaster dy'd without children And so as it is said in Meaux-Abbey-book for want of heirs the Earldom of Albemarle and the Honour of Holderness were seized into the King's hands Yet in following ages King Richard the second created Thomas de Woodstock his Uncle and afterwards Edward Plantagenet son to the Duke of York Duke of Albemarle in the life-time of his father Henry the fourth also made his son Thomas Duke of Clarence and Earl of Albemarle which title King Henry the sixth added afterwards as a farther honour to Richard Beauchamp Earl of Warwick ADDITIONS to the East-riding of YORKSHIRE a NOW we come to the second Division the East-Riding Which Division by Ridings to observe it by the way is nothing but a corruption from the Saxon ÐriHing ●g which consisted of several Hundreds or Wapentakes Nor was it peculiar to this County but formerly common to most of the neighbouring ones as appears by the p. 33. 34 Laws of Edward the Confessor and the ●g 74 ●c Life of King Alfred b The first place we meet with is Mont-ferrant-Castle which ‖ ●●erar Leland tells us in his time was clearly defaced so that bushes grew where it had formerly stood Of the family de Malo Lacu or as Leland calls them Mawley there were eight successively enjoy'd the estate all Peters but the last of these leaving only two daughters the one was married to Bigot and the other to Salwayne c However the name of Battle-bridge ●●●●e-●●●ge may be us'd for Stanford-bridge in Authors a Traveller will hardly meet with it among the Inhabitants of this Country Our Author seems to have taken it from an Instrument concerning the Translation of St. Oswin since printed in the ●●m 1. ●4 Monasticon Anglicanum which speaking of this place adds Nunc verò Pons belli dicitur i.e. at present 't is call'd Pons Belli or Battle-bridge d Upon the Derwent lyes Howden ●●den formerly Hovedene as is plain from several Records in the time of Edward 2. and Edward 3. as also from † ●n MS. Leland's calling the first Canon of the place John Hovedene
Earls of Albemarle mention'd by our Authour that title was vacant till upon the Restoration of King Charles the second George Monk who had been chiefly instrumental in it was advanc'd to the Honours of Baron Monk of Potheridge Beauchamp and Tcyes as also Earl of Torrington and Duke of Albemarle July 7. 12 Car. 2. Who departing this Life in 1669. was succeeded in his Estate and Titles by Christopher his son and heir NORTH-RIDING SCarce two miles above the Promontory of Flamburorw the North-part of this Country or the North-riding ●or●h-●●ding begins which makes the frontier to the other parts From the Sea it extends it self in a very long but narrow tract for threescore miles together as far as Westmorland to the west 'T is bounded on this side with the river Derwent and for some time by the Ure on the other all along by the course of the river Tees which separates it from the Bishoprick of Durham to the North. This Riding may not unfitly be divided into these parts Blackamore Cliveland Northalvertonshire and Richmondshire That which lyeth East and towards the Sea is call'd Blackamore that is a land black and mountainous being with craggs hills and woods up and down it rugged and unsightly The Sea-coast is eminent for Scarborough a very famous Castle formerly call'd Scear-burg i.e. a Bourg upon a steep Rock a Take the description of it from the History of William of Newburgh A rock of wonderful height and bigness and inaccessible by reason of steep craggs almost on every side stands into the Sea which quite surrounds it but in one place where a narrow slip of land gives access to it on the West It has on the top a pleasant plain grassy and spacious of about sixty acres or upwards and a little well of fresh water springing from a rock in it In the very entry which puts one to some pains to get up stands a stately tower and beneath the entry the City begins spreading its two sides South and North and carrying its front Westward where it is fortified with a wall but on the East is fenc'd by that rock where the Castle stands and lastly on both sides by the Sea William sirnam'd le Grosse Earl of Albemarle and Holderness observing this place to be fitly situated for building a Castle on encreased the natural strength of it by a very costly work having enclosed all that plain upon the rock with a wall and built a Tower in the entrance But this being decay'd and falln by the weight of too much age King Henry the second commanded a great and brave Castle to be built upon the same spot For he had now reduc'd the Nobility of England who during the loose reign of King Stephen had impaired the revenues of the Crown but especially this William of Albemarle who Lorded it over all these parts and kept this place as his own It is not to my purpose to relate the desperate boldness of Thomas Stafford who that he might fall from great attempts surpriz'd this Castle in Queen Mary's reign with a very small number of Frenchmen and kept it for two days nor yet that Sherleis a noble Frenchman of the same party was arraign'd for High-Treason altho' he was a foreigner because he had acted contrary to the duty of his Allegiance ● Dier ● there being then a Peace between the Kingdoms of England and France These things are too well known in the world to need a publication here Yet it is worth remarking that those of Holland and Zealand carry on a very plentiful and gainful trade of fishing in the Sea here for herrings call them in Latin Haleces Leucomenidae Chalcides The gainful trade of herring-fishing or what you please whereas by an old Constitution they use to get a Licence first for it from this Castle For the English always granted leave for fishing reserving the Honour to themselves but out of a lazy temper resigning the gain to others For 't is almost incredible what vast gains the Hollanders make by this Fishery on our Coast These herrings pardon me if I digress a little to shew the goodness of God towards us which in the former age swarmed only about Norway now in our time by the bounty of divine providence swim in great shoals towards our coasts About Mid-summer they draw from the main sea towards the coasts of Scotland at which time they are immediately sold off as being then at their best From thence they next arrive on our coasts and from the middle of August to November there is excellent and most plentiful fishing for them all along from Scarborough to the Thames-mouth Afterwards by stormy weather they are carried into the British sea and there caught till Christmas thence having ranged the coast of Ireland on both sides and gone round Britain they convey themselves into the Northern Ocean where they remain till June and after they have cast their spawn return again in great shoals This relation puts me in mind of what I have formerly read in S. Ambrose Fish in prodigious numbers Hexameron l. 5. c. 10. meeting as it were by common consent out of many places from several creeks of the sea in one united body make towards the blasts of the * Aquilo North-east wind and by a kind of natural instinct swim into the northern seas One would think to see them as they climb the main that some tide were approaching they rush on and cut the waves with such violence as they go through the Propentis to the Euxine Sea But now to return From hence the shore is craggy and bendeth inward as far as the river Teise and by its winding in Teise river there is caused a bay about a mile broad which is called Robin-Hoods Bay Robbin Hood's Bay from that famous Out law Robin Hood who flourish'd in the reign of Rich. the first as Jo. Major a Scotchman informs us who stiles him a principal and leading robber and the most kind and obliging robber From hence the shore immediately going back on both sides le ts us see the Bay Dunus sinus mention'd in Ptolemy Dunum upon which is seated the little village Dunesly Dunesley and just by it Whitby Whitby in the Saxon tongue a Streones-heal Streanes-Heale which Bede renders the bay of the Watch-tower I will not dispute this explanation of it though in our language it seems so plainly to intimate the bay of Safety that I should certainly have said it was the Sinus Salutaris if its situation as the Geographer makes it did not perswade me to the contrary b Here are found certain stones Stony-Serpents resembling the wreaths and folds of a serpent the strange frolicks of nature which as one says she forms for diversion after a toilsome application to serious business For one would believe them to have been serpents crusted over with a bark of stone Fame ascribes them to the power
And although the city be naturally strong yet he increas'd both the strength and state of it by a wall for he built one all along from the Chancel of the Church to the tower of the castle which now begins by degrees to fall under the weight of age but never that I know of bore the brunt of an enemy For when David Brus King of Scots destroy'd all with fire and sword as far as Beaupark or Berepark ●epark which is a Park just under the city whilst Edward 3. ●346 was at the siege of Calis in France Henry Percy and William Zouch Archbishop of York with such troops as they could raise on a sudden encounter'd the Scots and charg'd them with that heat and bravery that they almost cut off the first and second battalions to a man took the King prisoner and put the third into such consternation that they fled with all the haste they could make their fear carrying them over the deepest precipices till they got again into their own country This was a remarkable engagement and to be reckon'd among the many bloody defeats we have given the Scots call'd by us The Battel of Nevill Cross For the greatest of the Scotch Nobility being slain here and the King himself taken they were forc'd to part with much ground hereabouts and yield up many Castles into our hands And this may suffice for Durham to which with the Reader 's leave I will add a distich of Necham's and an Hexastich of Jonston's and so conclude Arte situque loci munita Dunelmia salve Qua floret sanctae relligionis apex Hail happy Durham Art and Nature's care Where Faith and Truth at th' noblest height appear Vedra ruens rapidis modò cursibus agmine leni Seque minor celebres suspicit urbe viros Quos dedit ipsa olim quorum tegit ossa sepulta Magnus ubi sacro marmore Beda cubat Se jactant aliae vel relligione vel armis Haec armis cluit haec relligione potens Unequal Were as by her walls it runs Looks up and wonders at her noble sons Whom she gave life and now their death does mourn And ever weeps o'er Beda's sacred urn Let others boast of piety or war While she 's the care of both and both of her As for the Monks being turn'd out and twelve Prebendaries with two Archdeacons substituted in lieu of them as for the Prior's also being chang'd into a Dean I have nothing to say to them These are things sufficiently known to every body 1 And unwilling I am to remember how this Bishoprick was dissolv'd by a private Statute and all the possessions thereof given to Edward 6. when private greediness edg'd by Church-men did grinde the Church and withdrew match from God wherewith Christian piety had formerly honour'd God But Queen Mary repeal'd that Statute and restor'd the said Bishoprick with all the possessions and franchises thereof that God might enjoy his own It stands in 22 degr of Longitude and in 54 degr 57 min. of Latitude Beneath Durham not to omit this there stands eastward a very noble Hospital founded by Hugh * Pudsey an extraordinary rich Bishop and for some time Earl of Northumberland for Lepers and as Newbrigensis has it with great cost and expence yet upon some accounts not very honourable For to advance this charitable design he made use of his power to extort from other men when he was not willing to allow enough of his own to that work However he settled a very good allowance for maintaining sixty five Lepers besides Mass-priests From hence the Were is carry'd in a streighter course towards the north by Finchale Fin hale where in the reign of Henry 2. Godricus a man of ancient and Christian simplicity and wholly intent upon God and Religion led and ended a solitary life and was here buried in the same place where as William of Newburrow says he was wont in a fit of devotion to prostrate himself or to lye down in a fit of sickness This man grew into such admiration for this holy simplicity of his that R. brother to that rich Bishop Hugh Pudsey built a * Ecclesiola Chapel to his memory k Hence the Were runs by Lumley Lumley a castle with a Park quite round it the ancient seat of the Lumleys Barons Lumley who are descended from Liulphus a man of great Nobility in these parts in Edward the Confessor's time who married Aldgitha the daughter of Aldred Earl of Northumberland Of these Marmaduke took his mother's Coat of Arms in whose right he came to the rich inheritance of the Thwengs The Arms were In a field argent a fess Gules between three Poppinjays Vert whereas the Lumleys before that bore for their Arms Six Poppinjays argent in a field Gules For she was the eldest daughter of Marmaduke Thweng Lord of Kilton and coheir to Thomas Thweng her brother But Ralph the son of this Marmaduke was made the first Baron of Lumley by Richard 2. Which honour John the ninth from him enjoys at this day a man of accomplish'd virtue and integrity and now in his old age most honourable for all the ornaments of true nobility Opposite to this and not far from the river on the other side stands Chester upon the street Chester upon the street that is a castle or little city by the highway call'd in Saxon Concester d From an Altar found at Benwall in Northumberland 't is probable the Condercum was there that place being nearer ad Lineam Valli See Northumberland for which reason I have thought it the Condercum Condercum where upon the line of the Vallum the first wing of the Astures kept garrison in the Roman times as the Notitia tells us For it is but some few miles distant from the Vallum of which I shall treat hereafter The Bishops of Lindifarn liv'd retiredly here for 113 years with the body of S. Cuthbert in the time of the Danish wars In memory of which whilst Egelric Bishop of Durham was laying the foundation of a new Church there he digg'd up such a prodigious sum of money 2 Bury'd as 't is thought by the Romans that he left his Bishoprick as being now rich enough and so returning to Peterborough where he was Abbot before he made Causeys through the fens and did several other works not without very great expence Long after this Anthony Bec Bishop of Durham 3 And Patriarch of Jerusal●m founded a Collegiate Church a Deanry and seven Prebends here In this Church Baron Lumley but now mention'd plac'd the monuments of his ancestors all in order as they succeeded one another from Liulphus down to our own times which he had either pick'd up out of the suppress'd Monasteries or made new More inward and in the middle as it were of the triangle stands another small village lately noted for it's College with a Dean and Prebendaries in it founded by
Preston in Andernesse 〈…〉 instead of Acmundesnesse for so the Saxons nam d this part of the country because between the rivers Ribell and Cocar it hangs out for a long way into the Sea like a Nose it was also afterwards call'd Agmonder●nes In William the Conqueror's time there were only 16 villages in it inhabited the rest lay wast as we find in Domes-day and it was possess'd by Roger of Poictiers Afterwards it belong d to Theobald Walter from whom the Butlers of Ireland are descended for so we read in a charter of Richard the first Know ye that we have given and by this present charter confirm'd to Theobald Walter for his homage and service all Agmondernes with all other appurtenances thereunto c. This soil bears oats pretty well but is not so good for barley it makes excellent pasture especially towards the Sea where it is partly champain whence a great part of it is call'd the File 〈…〉 as one would guess for the Feild Yet in the records of the tower it is express'd by the latin word Lima which signifies a File a Smith's Instrument wherewith iron or other things are polish'd In other places it is fenny and therefore counted less wholsom The Wyr a little river which comes from Wierdale a solitary and dismal place touches here as it runs along in a swift stream and passes by Grenhaugh-castle Grenhaugh castle built by Thomas Stanley the first Earl of Derby of that family while he was under apprehension of danger from certain of the nobility outlaw'd in this County whose estates had been given him by Henry the 7th for they made several attempts upon him frequently making inroads into his grounds till at last these feuds were wisely quieted by the moderation of this excellent person In many places along this coast there are heaps of sand b Mr. Ray Northern words p. 20● has given us an account of the manner of making salt of sea-sand in this County upon which they now and then pour water A new way of making Salt till they grow saltish and then with a hot turf-fire they boil it into a white salt Here are also some deceitful and voracious sands they call them quick-sands Quicksands so dangerous to travellers who when the tide is out take the shortest cut that they ought to use great care lest as Sidonius expresses it they sink and are shipwrack d in their travels by land especially near the mouth of the Cockar where in a field of quicksands if I may so say stands Cockarsand-Abbey Syrticus Ager formerly a small Monastery of the Cluniacks founded by Ranulph de Meschines It lies expos'd to the winds situated between the mouth of the Cockar and the Lune commonly call'd the Lone with a large prospect into the Irish sea The Lone commonly Lune Lune riv which has its rise among the mountains of Westmoreland runs southward in a crooked chanel bank'd so as that the current of the water is much hinder'd To the great gain of those that live thereabouts it affords store of Salmon Salmon in the summer time for this sort of Fish taking great delight in clear water and particularly in sandy fords comes up in great shoals into this and the other rivers on this coast As soon as it enters Lancashire the Lac a little river joyns it from the east Here at present stands Over-burrow Over burrow a small country village but that it was formerly a great city taking up a large plot of ground between the Lac and the Lone and was forc'd to surrender by the utmost misery of a siege and famine I learnt from the inhabitants who have it by a tradition handed down from their Ancestors The place it self shews its own antiquity by many old monuments inscriptions upon stones chequer'd pavements and Roman coins as also by this its modern name which signifies a Burrow If it ever recover its ancient name it must owe it to others and not to me tho' I have sought it with all the diligence I could And indeed one is not to imagine that the particular names of every place in Britain is to be found in Ptolemy Antoninus the Notitia and in Classick Authors If a man might have the liberty of a conjecture I must confess I should take it to be Bremetonacum Bremetonacum which was a distinct place from Brementuracum as Jerom Surita a Spaniard in his notes upon Antoninus very reasonably supposes upon the account of its distance from Coccium or Riblechester From this Burrough the river Lone runs by Thurland-Tunstalls a fort built in Henry the fourth's time by Sir Thomas Tunstall Knight the King having granted him leave to fortifie and kernel his mansion that is What it is to kernel to embattel it and then by Hornby a fine castle Hornby-castle which glories in its founder N. de Mont Begon and in its Lords the Harringtons and the Stanleys Barons de Monte Aquilae or Mont-Eagle Barons Monteagle descended from Thomas Stanley first Earl of Derby 6 And advanc'd to that title by K. Henr. 8. William Stanley the third and last of these left Elizabeth his only daughter and heir marry'd to Edward Parker Lord Morley She had a son William Parker who was restor'd by King James to the honour of his ancestors the Barony of Mont-Eagle and must be acknowledged by us and our posterity to have been born for the good of the whole Kingdom for by an obscure letter privately sent him and produc'd by him in the very nick of time Gun powder-plot the most hellish and detestable treason that wickedness it self could project was discover'd and prevented when the Kingdom was in the very brink of ruin for some of that wicked gang under the execrable masque of Religion stood ready to blow up their King and Country in a moment having before planted a great quantity of Gun-powder under the Parliament-house for that purpose The Lone after it has gone some miles further sees Lancaster on the south side of it the chief town of this county which the inhabitants more truly call c This is its name in all the North part of England Loncaster Lancaster and the Scots Loncastell from the river Lon. Both its name at this day and the river under it in a manner prove it to be the Longovicum w●ere under the Lieutenant of Britain as the Notitia informs us a Company of the Longovicarians who took that name from the place kept ga●●ison Tho● at present the town is not populous and the inhabitants thereof are all husbandmen for the grounds about it are well cultivated open flourishing and woody enough yet in proof of its Roman antiquity they sometimes meet with coins of the Emperors especially where the Fryers had their cloyster for there as they report stood the marks of an ancient city which the Scots in a sudden inroad in the year 1322 wherein
they destroy'd every thing they could meet with burnt to the ground From that time they began to build nearer a green hill by the river upon which stands a castle not very great nor ancient but fair built and strong and upon the very hill stands a Church the only one in the town where the Monks aliens had a cell heretofore 7 Founded by Roger of Poictiers Below this at a very fine bridge over the Lone on the sto●pest side of the hill there hangs a piece of a very ancient wall which is Roman they call it Wery-wall probably from the later British name of the town for they nam'd this town Caer Werid that is a green 〈◊〉 from the green hill perhaps but I leave the f●r●her discovery of this to others John Lord of Mo●iton and Lancaste who was afterwards King of ●ng●and confirmed by charter all the liberties which he ●ad granted to the Burgesses of Bristow Edward the third in the 36th year of his reign granted to the M●yor and Bailiffs of the village of Lancaster that Pleas and Sessions should be held no where else but there The latitude of this place not to omit it is 54 degrees 5 minutes and the longitude 20 degrees 48 minutes From the top of this hill while I look'd all round to see the mouth of the Lone which empties it self not much lower I saw Forness ●ournesse the other part of this County on the west which is almost sever'd from it by the sea for whereas the shore lay out a great way from hence westward into the ocean the sea as if it were enrag'd at it ceased not to slash and mangle it Nay it swallow'd it quite up at some boisterous tide or other and the●eby has made three large bays namely Kentsand which receives the river Ken Levensand Duddensand between which the land shoots o●t so much like a promontory into the sea that this 〈◊〉 o● the county takes its name from it 〈…〉 and Foreland signifie the same with us that pro●●●●tort●● anterius that is a fore-promontory does in lati● l The whole tract except by the Sea-side is all high mountains and great rocks they call them Forn●ss-f●lls ●●rn●s●e-Fells among which the Britains liv'd securely for a long time relying upon the fortifications wherewith nature had guarded them tho' nothing prov'd impregnable to the Saxon Conquerors For in the 228th year after the coming in of the Saxons we may from hence infer that the Britains lived here because at that time Egfrid King of the Northumbrians gave to S. Cuthbert the land called Carthmell Carthmell and all the Britains in it for so it is related in his life Now Carthmell every one knows was a part of this County near Kentsand and a little town in it keeps that very name to this day wherein William Mareschal the elder Earl of Pembroke built a Priory and endow'd it If in Ptolemy one might read Setantiorum S●t●●●●●ru● Lacus 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 a lake as some books have it and not S●tantiorum 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 a haven I would venture to affirm that the Britains in these parts were the Setantii for among those mountains lies the greatest lake in England now call'd Winander-mere Winam●●rmere in Saxon Winƿadremer perhaps from the windings in it about ten miles in length the bottom pav'd as it were with a continued rock wonderful deep in some places as the neighbouring Inhabitants tell you and well stor'd with a sort of fish no where else bred See the A●d●●●●ns t● W●●tm●●land C●are a fi●h Hi●t●ry ●f Ma●●● which they call Chare m Upon this lake stands a little town of the same name where in the year 792. Eathred King of the Northumbrians slew the sons of King Elfwold after he had taken them from York that by his own wickedness and their blood he might secure himself in the Kingdom Between this lake and the river Dudden is the promontory we commonly call Forness with the Island Walney like a Counterscarp lying along by it and a small arm of the sea between The entry to it is d This fort is quite ruinated defended by a Fort call'd The Pile of Fouldrey Pi●e 〈◊〉 F●uld●e● situate upon a rock in the middle of the water and built by the Abbot of Forness in the first year of King Edward the third Upon the promontory there is nothing to be seen but the ruins of Forness-Abbey 8 Of C●stercian Monks L●b F ●●s●●n● which Stephen Earl of Bullen afterwards K. of England built in the year 1127. in a place formerly call'd Bekensgill or translated it rather from Tulket in Anderness Out of the Monks of this place and no where else as they themselves have related the Bishops of the Isle of Man which lyes over against it were wont by an ancient custom to be chosen this being the mother as it were of several Monasteries both in that Island and in Ireland n More to the East stands Aldingham Ald●●gh●● the ancient estate of the family of the Harringtons H●●●●gt●●s to whom it came from the Flemmings by the Cancefelds and whose inheritance by a daughter went to William Bonvill 9 Of Somersetshire of Devonshire and by him at last to the Greys Marquisses of Dorset Somewhat higher lyes Ulverston Ul●●●● to be mention'd upon this account that Edward the third gave a moiety of it to John Coupland one of the most warlike men of that age whom he also advanc'd to the honour of a Banneret for taking David the second King of Scots prisoner in a battel at Durham After his death the said King gave it with other great estates in these parts and with the title of Earl of Bedford to Ingleram Lord Coucy a Frenchman he having married his daughter Isabel and his Ancestors having been possess'd of great Revenues in England in right of Christian de Lindsey ●o As for those of the Nobility who have bore the title of Lancaster 〈…〉 there were three in the beginning of the Norman Government who had the title of Lords of the Honour of Lancaster namely Roger of Poictou the son of Roger Montgomery sirnam'd Pictavensis as William of Malmesbury says because his wife came out of Poictou in France But he being depriv'd of this honour for his disloyalty King Stephen conferr'd it upon his own son William Earl of Moriton and Warren Upon whose death King Richard the first bestow'd it upon John his brother who was afterwards King of England For thus we find it in an ancient History 〈…〉 King Richard shew'd great affection for his brother John For besides Ireland and the Earldom of Moriton in Normandy he bestow'd upon him such great preferments in England that he was in a manner a Tetrarch there For he gave him Cornwal Lancaster Nottingham Derby with the adjacent Country and many other things A pretty while after King Henry the third son of King John
o●●e Barons of Dacre the last whereof some years ago dy'd young and his Uncle Leonard chosing rather to contend with his Prince in War than with his Nieces in Law about the estate seis'd upon the Castle and got together a company of Rebels in opposition to his Prince But the Lord Hunsdon with the garrison of Berwick easily defeated them put a great many to the sword and the rest amongst whom was Leonard himself to flight x 19 But of him more in my Annals Nearer the Wall beyond the river Irthing was lately found this fair votive Altar erected to the Goddess Nymphe of the Brigantes for the health of the Empress Plautilla Wife to M. Aurelius Antoninus Severus and the whole Imperial family by M. Cocceius Nigrinus a Treasurer to the Emperour when Laetus was second time Consul with intricate connexion of letters which I read thus DEAE NYMPHAE BRIGantum QUOD VOVERAT PRO SALUTE PAUTILIAE COnjugis INVICTAE DOMini NOSTRI INVICTI IMP. M. AURELii SEVERI ANTONINI PII. FELicis CAESaris AUGusti TOTIUSQUE DO MUS DIVINAE EJUS M. COCCEIUS NIGRINUS Questor AUGusti Numini DEVOTUS LIBENS SUSCEPTUM Solvit LAETO II. Nearer the Wall stood the Priory of Lanercost founded by R. de Vallibus Lord of Gillesland y and upon the wall is Burd-Oswald Below this where the Picts-Wall pass'd the river Irthing by an arch'd bridge at a place now call'd Willoford was the Station of the † See the Additions to Ambleside in Westmorland If we are to settle the Amboglana here the many rivulets in those parts which carry the name of Glen o● Glynn afford us a probable original of the name Cohors prima Aelia Dacorum as appears by the Notitia and several Altars erected by that Cohort and inscrib'd to Jupiter Optimus Maximus Some of them I think proper to give you tho' they 're much defac'd and worn with age Jovi optimo Maximo * I. O. M. COH I. AEL DAC CVI PRAE IG I. O. M. CoH. I. AEL DAC C. P. STATV LoN GINUS TRIB I. O. M. OH I. AEL DA C. C. A. GETA IRELSAVRNES PRO SALVTE D. N MAXiMIANO † Fortissimo Caesari FOR CAE VA OAED L E G. VI. V I C. P. F. F. I. O M. COH I AEL DAC TETRICIANO RO C. P. P. LVTIC V. S. DESIG NATVS TRIB I. O. M. COH I. AEL DAC GORD ANA. C. P EST. I. O. M. H. I. AEL DAC C. PRAEESI FLIUS FA S TRIB PETVO COS. The first Lord of Gillesland that I read of Lords of Gill●s●●● Out o●● old M●● R. C●● Clarenceux 〈◊〉 him Ra●● as also 〈◊〉 MSS. of Founta●● and Hi●● Abb●● was William Meschines brother of Ralph Lord of Cumberland not that William who was brother of Ranulph Earl of Chester from whom sprang Ranulph de Ruelent but the brother of Ralph but he was not able to get it out of the hands of the Scots for Gill the son of Bueth ſ This was but for a short time for the father was banish'd into Scotland in Earl Randolph's time and the son Gillesbueth as he was call'd was slain by Robert de Vallibus at a ●eeting for Arbitration of all differences so that that family seems never to have claim'd after The murther was barbarous and Robert to atone for it built the Abbey of Lanercost and gave to it the Lands that had caus'd the quarrel held the greatest part of it by force of Arms. After his death King Henry the second bestow'd it upon Hubert de Vallibus or Vaulx whose Coat Armour was Chequey Argent and Gules His son Robert founded and endow'd the Priory of Lanercost But the estate within a few years came by marriage to the Moltons and from them by a daughter to Ranulph Lord Dacre whose posterity flourish'd in great honour down to our time z Having thus took a Survey of the Sea-coast and inner parts of Cumberland we must pass to the East of it a lean hungry desolate sort of Country which affords nothing remarkable besides the head of South-Tine in a wet spungy ground and an ancient Roman stone Cawsey * 8 Ulna● above ten yards broad 'T is call'd the Maiden-way Maiden-way leading out of Westmoreland and at the confluence of the little river Alon and the Tine we spoke of on the side of a gentle ascent there are the remains of a large old Town which to the North has been fortify'd with a fourfold Rampire and to the West † Sile●● with one and a half The place is now call'd Whitley-castle and as a testimony of it's Antiquity has this imperfect Inscription ‖ Comp●● of a scri●● ratio●● 〈◊〉 risim●le● compendiously written with the Letters link'd one in another from which we learn that the third Cohort of the Nervii built a * Aedem● Temple there to Antoninus the Emperour son of Severus IMP. CAES. Lucii Septimi Severi AraBICI ADIABENICI PARTHICI MAX. FIL. DIVI ANTONINI Pii Germanici SARMA NEP. DIVI ANTONINI PII PRON. DIVI HADRIANI ABN DIVI TRAIANI PARTH ET DIVI NERVAE ADNEPOTI M. AVRELIO ANTONINO PIO FEL AVG. GERMANICO PONT MAX. TR. POT X IMP. COS. IIII. P. p. PRO PIETATE AEDE VOTO COMMVNI CURANTE LEGATO AVG. PR COH III. NERVIO RVM G. R. POS. Now seeing the third Cohort of the Nervii was quarter'd in this place seeing also the Notitia sets them at Alione as Antoninus does at Alone and a little river running under it is call'd Alne if I should think this to be the very Alone I could not indeed deliver it for a positive truth because the injuries of time and the violence of wars have long since put these things out of the reach of human knowledge but it would at least seem probable Upon the decay of the Roman power in Britain tho' this Country was cruelly harrass'd by the Scots and Picts yet did it longest keep its original Inhabitants the Britains and fell late under the power of the Saxons But when the Danish wars had well nigh broke the Saxon government it had its petty Kings ●●gs of ●●mber●●●d stil'd Kings of Cumberland to the year of our Lord 946. At which time as Florilegus tells us King Edmund by the assistance of Leolin King of South-Wales spoil'd Cumberland of all its riches and having put out the eyes of the two sons of Dummail King of that County granted that Kingdom to Malcolm King of Scots to hold of him and to protect the North-parts of England both by Sea and Land against the incursions of the Enemy After which the eldest sons of the Kings of Scotland as well under the Saxons as Danes were stil'd ●mbri●e 〈◊〉 Governours of Cumberland But when England had yielded to the Normans this County submitted among the rest and fell to the share of Ralph de Meschines whose eldest son Ranulph was Lord of Cumberland and at the same time in right of his mother and by the favour of his Prince Earl
and Darwent and also in these five Townships Brigham Eglysfeld Dene Brainthwaite and Grisothen and in the two Clistons and Staneburne He infeoffed also Odardus le Clerk in the fourth part of Crostwaite pro Custodia Asturcorum c Austurcorum MS. B. suorum i.e. for keeping his Goshawkes Galfridus de Meschins Earl of Chester dy'd without issue and thereupon Ranulphus de Meschins became Earl of Chestre and surrender'd to the King all the County of Cumberland on this condition That all those that held Lands of him in Fee should hold of the King in Capite The foresaid Waldevus son of Earl Gospatricius infeoffed Odardus de Logis in the Barony of Wygton Dondryt Waverton Blencogo and Kirkbride which Odardus de Logis founded the Church of Wygton and gave to Odardus son of Liolfe Tulentyre and Castlerige with the Forest between Caltre and Greta and to the Prior and Convent of Gisburne he gave Appleton and Bricekirk with the Advowson of the Church there He gave also to Adam son of Liolfe Uldendale and Gilcruce and to Gemellus son of Brun Bothill and to Waldevus son of Gileminius with Ethreda his sister he gave Brogham Ribton and Litle Brogham and Donwaldese and Bowaldese ad unam Logiam for a Lodge or House for a Ranger He gave also to Ormus son of Ketellus Seton Camberton Flemingbi Craiksothen in marriage with Gurwelda his sister And to Dolfinus son of Abwaldus with Matilda another sister he gave Appletwhaite and Litle Crosby Langrige and Brigham with the Advowson of the Church there He gave also to Melbeth his Physician the Town of Bromefeld saving to himself the Advowson of the Church there Alanus son and heir of the said Waldevus gave to Ranulphus Lyndsey Blenerhasset and Ukmanby with Ethereda his sister To Uthrdeus son of Fergus Lord of Galloway in marriage with Gurnelda d Gunilda MS. B. his other sister he gave Torpenhow with the Advowson of the Church there He gave also to Catellus de Spenser e Le Despenser MS. B. Threpeland He gave also to Herbert the Manour of Thuresby for the third part of a Township He gave also to Gospatricius son of Ormus High Ireby for the third part of a Township He gave also to Gamellus le Brun f Isal Rugh MS. B. Rughtwaite for a third part of a Township He gave also to Radulphus Engaine Issael with the Appurtenances and Blencrake with the Service of Newton And the same Alanus had one Bastard-brother nam'd Gospatricius to whom he gave Boulton Bastinthwaite and Esterholme And to Odardus he gave Newton with the Appurtenances And to his three Huntsmen Sleth g Selif MS. B. and his Companions Hayton To Uctredus he gave one Carrucat of Land in Aspatrike on condition that he should be his Summoner Summonitor in Allerdale He gave also to Delfinus six Bovates or Oxgang of Land in High-Crossby that he should be Serviens D. Regis the King's Serjeant in Allerdale And to Simon de Shestelyngs he gave one Moiety of Deram And to Dolfinus son of Gospatricius the other Moiety He gave also to Waldevus son of Dolfinus Brakanthwaite And to the Priory of S. Bega he gave Stainburne And to the Priory of Carliol he gave the body of Waldevus his son with the Holy Cross which they have yet in possession and Crossby with the Advowson of the Church there with the Service that Uctredus owed him and also the Advowson of the Church of Aspatrike with the Service of Alanus de Brayton He gave them also the Advowson of the Church of Ireby with the Suit and Service of Waldevus de Langthwaite The same Alanus son of Waldevus gave to King Henry h D. H. Regi Seniori MS. B. the Fields of the Forest of Allerdale with liberty to hunt whenever he should lodge at Holme-Cultrane To this Alanus succeeded William son of Duncane Earl of Murrayse Nephew and Heir to the said Alanus as being son to Ethreda sister to his father Waldevus The foresaid William son of Duncanus espoused Alicia daughter of Robert de Rumeney Lord of Skipton in Craven which Robert had married a daughter of Meschins i Willielmi de Meschins MS. B. Lord of Coupland This William had by this Alicia his wife a son call'd William de Egremond who dy'd under age and three daughters The eldest nam'd Cicilia k Seff MS. B. and Silitia being a Ward was married by King Henry to William le Gross Earl of Albemarle with the Honour of Skipton for her Dower The second nam'd Amabilla was married to Reginald de Luce with the Honour of Egremond by the same King Henry And the third nam'd Alicia de Romelic was married to Gilbert Pipard with Aspatrike and the Barony of Allerdale and the Liberty of Cokermouth by the said King Henry and afterwards by the Queen to Robert de Courtney but she dy'd without heirs of her body William le Gross Earl of Albemarlie had by his wife Cicilia Harwisia l Hatewisia to whom succeeded William de Fortibus Earl of Albemarlie to whom succeeded another William de Fortibus to whom succeeded Avelina who was espoused to Lord Edmond brother to King Edward and dy'd without heirs c. Reginald de Luce by Amabilla his wife had m Richardum de Lucy Amabillum Aliciam Alicia To Amabilla succeeded Lambert de Multon To him succeeded Thomas Multon de Egremond And to Alicia succeeded Thomas de Luce n Quae sequuntur desunt MS. B. to whom succeeded Thomas his son who was succeded by Anthony his Brother More rare Plants growing wild in Westmoreland and Cumberland Lan. Eruca Monensis laciniata lutea Jagged yellow Rocket of the Isle of Man In Sella fields Sea-bank found growing abundantly by Mr. Lawson Echium marinum P. B. Sea-Bugloss On the Sea-shore near White-haven plentifully Mr. Newton W. Gladiolus lacustris Dortmanni Clus cur post Water Gilly-flower or Gladiole In the Lake call'd Hulls-water which parteth Westmoreland and Cumberland Orobus sylvaticus nostras English Wood-vetch At Gamblesby about six miles from Pereth in the way to New-castle in the hedges and pastures plentifully Vitis Idaea magna quibusdam sive Myrtillus grandis J. B. Idaea foliis subrotundis exalbidis C.B. Idaea foliis subrotundis major Ger. Vaccinai nigra fructu majore Park The great Bilberry-bush In the same place with the precedent but where the ground is moist and marshy An Additional account of some more rare Plants observ'd to grow in Westmoreland and Cumberland by Mr. Nicolson Arch-deacon of Carlisle Cannabis spuria fl magno albo perelegante About Blencarn in the parish of Kirkland Cumberland Equisetum nudum variegatum minus In the meadows near Great Salkeld and in most of the like sandy grounds in Cumberland Geranium Batrachoides longiùs radicatum odoratum In Mardale and Martindale Westm Hesperis Pannonica inodora On the banks of the Rivulets about Dalehead in Cumberland and Grassmire im Westmoreland
to him King Aelfred was under a necessity of coming to Terms with them and so he and they divided the Land assign'd it to the Danes who within a few years were thrown out by Athelstane Yet even after this the People made a King of Eilric the Dane who was forthwith expell'd by King Ealdred Henceforward the name of King was no more heard of in this Province but its chief Magistrates were call'd Earls whereof these following are successively reckon'd by our Historians Osulph Oslac Edulph Waldeof the Elder Uchtred Adulph Alred Siward Tostius Edwin Morcàr and Osculph Amongst these Siward was a person of extraordinary valour who as he liv'd so he chose to dye in his Armour Ingulph p. 511. b. An. 1056. His County of York was given to Tostius Brother to Earl Harold and the Counties of Northampton and Huntingdon with his other lands bestow'd on the noble E. Waldeof his son and heir I have here given you the very words of Ingulphus because there are some who deny that he was Earl of Huntingdon To this let me also add what I have met with on the same subject in an old Parchment Manuscript in the Library of John Stow a most worthy Citizen and industrious Antiquary of the City of London Copsi being made Earl of Northumberland by William the Conquerour dispossess'd Osculph who nevertheless soon after slew him Afterwards Osculph himself was stabb'd by a Robber and dy'd of the wound Then Gospatrick bought the County of the Conquerour by whom he was also presently divested of the Honour and was succeeded by Waldeof the son of Siward He lost his head and was succeeded by Walcher Bishop of Durham who as well as his successor Robert Comin was slain in an insurrection of the Rabble mm The title was afterwards conferr'd on Robert Mowbray who destroy'd himself by his own wicked Treason 10 When he devis'd to deprive King William Rufus of his Royal Estate and to advance Stephen Earl of Albemarle a son to the Conqueror's sist●r thereunto Then as the Polychronicon of Durham tells us King Stephen made Henry the son of David King of Scots E●rl of Northumberland and his son William who was also himself afterwards King of Scots wrote himself William de Warren Earl of Northumberland for his mother was of the family of the Earls of Warren as appears by the Book of Brinkburn-Abbey Within a few years after Richard the first sold this County to Hugh Pudsey Bishop of Durham for life but when that King was imprison'd by the Emperour in his return from the Holy War and Hugh advanc'd only two thousand pounds in silver towards his ransom Lib. Dunelm the King took this slender contribution so ill knowing that under colour of this ransom he had rais'd vast sums that he depriv'd him of the Earldom At present that Honour is enjoy'd by the family of the Percies Percies descended from Charles the Great who being descended from the Earls of Brabant got the sirname and inheritance of the Percies together which was done by the true Off-spring of Charles the Great by Gerberg daughter to Charles younger brother of Lotharius the last King of France of the Caroline stock Josceline younger son of Godfrey Duke of Brabant who marry'd Agnes daughter and sole heir of William Percie This William's great grandfather call'd also William Percie came into England with William the Conquerour who bestow'd on him lands in Tatcaster Linton Normanby and other places This Agnes covenanted with Josceline that he should take upon him the name of Percie but should still retain the ancient Arms of Brabant which were a Lion Azure chang'd afterwards by the Brabanters in a Field Or. The first of this family that was made Earl of Northumberland was Henry Percie the son of Mary daughter of Henry Earl of Lancaster This Noble-man signaliz'd his valour in the wars under Edward the third and was by him rewarded with large Possessions in Scotland He was very much enrich'd by his second wife Matilda Lucy who oblig'd him to bear the Arms of the Lucies and by Richard the second was created Earl of Northumberland His behaviour was very ungrateful to this his great Benefactor for he deserted him in his straits and help'd Henry the fourth to the Crown He had the Isle of Man bestow'd on him by this King 11 Who also made him Constable of England against whom he also rebell'd being prick'd in Conscience at the unjust deposing of King Richard and vex'd at the close confinement of the undoubted Heir of the Crown Edmund Mortimer Earl of March his kinsman 12 Grievously complaining and charging him King Henry with Perjury That whereas he had solemnly sworn to him and others that he would not challenge the Crown but only his own Inheritance and that King Richard should be govern'd during his life by the good Advice of the Peers of the Realm he to the contrary had by imprisonment and terrour of death enforc'd him to resign his Crown and usurp'd the same by the concurrence of his faction horribly murdering the said King and defrauding Edward Mortimer Earl of March of his lawful right to the Crown whom he had suffer'd to languish long in prison under Owen Glendowr reputing those Traytors who with their own money had procur'd his enlargement Hereupon he first sent some Forces against him under the command of his brother Thomas Earl of Worcester and his own forward son Henry sirnam'd Whot-spur who were both slain in the battel at Shrewsbury Upon this he was attainted of High-Treason but presently receiv'd again into the seeming favour of the King who indeed stood in awe of him He had also his estate and goods restor'd him except only the Isle of Man which the King took back into his own hand Yet not long after the popular and heady man again proclaim'd war against the King as an Usurper having call'd in the Scots to his assistance And now leading on the Rebels in person he was surpriz'd by Thomas Rokesby High-Sheriff of York shire at Barham-moor where in a confused skirmish his Army was routed and himself slain in the year 1408. Eleven years after Henry the fifth by Act of Parliament restor'd the Honour to Henry Percie his Grandchild by his son Henry Whotspurre whose mother was Elizabeth the daughter of Edmund Mortimer the elder Earl of March by Philippa the daughter of Lionel Duke of Clarence This Earl stoutly espoused the interest of Henry the sixth against the House of York and was slain in the Battel of St Albans His son Henry the third Earl of Northumberland who married Eleanor the daughter of Richard Baron of Poynings Brian and Fitz-Paine lost his life in the same quarrel at Towton in the year 1461. When the House of Lancaster and with it the Family of the Percies was now under a cloud King Edward the fourth created John Nevis Lord Montacute Earl of Northumberland but he quickly resign'd that Title being made
Marquiss Montacute After which Edward the fourth graciously restor'd to his father's Honours Henry Percie son of the fore-mention'd Henry who in the reign of Henry the seventh was slain by a rabble of the Country People in a Mutiny against the Collectors of a Tax impos'd on them by Act of Parliament To him succeeded Henry Percie the fifth Earl from whom who was himself the son of a Daughter and Co-heiress of Robert Spenser and Eleanor Daughter and Co-heiress of Edmund Beaufort Duke of Somerset descended Henry the sixth Earl He having no Children and his brother Thomas being executed for rebelling against Henry the eighth in the beginning of the Reformation squander'd away a great part of his fair Estate in Largesses upon the King and others as if his Family had now been reduc'd to a final period A few years after John Dudley Earl of Warwick got the Title of Duke of Northumberland Duke ●f Nor●●●berland 13 By the name of John Earl of Warwick Marshal of England Viscount Lisle Baron Somery Bas●●t and Ties Lord of Dudley Great Master and Steward of the King's House when in the Non-age of Edward the sixth the Ring-leaders of the several Factions shared the Titles of Honour among themselves and their Abettors This was that Duke of Northumberland who for some time as a Whirlwind troubled the Peace of his Native Countrey by endeavouring to exclude Mary and Elizabeth the Daughters of Henry the eighth from their lawful Right of Succession designing by the countenance of some Lawyers inclinable enough to serve Great men to have settled the Crown on Jane Grey to whom he had married his son Hereupon being convicted of High Treason he lost his head and on the Scaffold openly own'd and profess'd the Popish Religion which either in good earnest or k The account we have of his Speech as to this particular is That he exhorted the people to stand to the Religion of their Ancestors to reject all Novelties and to drive the Preachers out of the Nation and declared he had temperiz'd against his Conscience and that he was always of the Religion of his Forefathers Burnet seemingly and to serve a turn he had for a good while before renounc'd Upon his death Queen Mary restor'd Thomas Percie Nephew to Henry the sixth Earl by his brother Thomas creating him at first Baron Percie and soon after by a new Patent Earl of Northumberland 3 ● P● Ma● To himself and the Heirs-male of his Body and for want of such to his Brother Henry and his Heirs-male But this Thomas the seventh Earl under pretence of restoring the Romish Religion rebelled against his Prince and Country and so lost both his Life and Honour in the year 1572. Yet by the special bounty of Queen Elizabeth his brother Henry according to the Tenure of Queen Mary's Patent succeeded him as the eighth Earl and dy'd in Prison in the year 1585. He was succeeded by his son Henry the ninth Earl of Northumberland of this Family who was also son of Katharine eldest Daughter and one of the Heirs of J. Nevil Baron Latimer ADDITIONS to NORTH-HVMBER-LAND a HUmphrey Lhuyd places these People about Lothian in Scotland and herein he is not contradicted by Buchanan who never fails of doing it when he can have an opportunity All agree they were Picts and therefore if they did inhabit some part of this County it must have been beyond the Wall Possibly Naeatae is the true reading And then they are more probably placed by our Author near the Wall or Rampire For Naid or Nawd in the old British signifies a Defence or Security And why may not the Transcribers of Dio for he is the only man of Antiquity that mentions these People turn his Naeatae into Maeatae as well as those of Marcellinus have made Attigotti Catacotti and Catiti out of his Attacotti b Our Author observes this Country was divided into Baronies ●●●●nies and very good Baronies they were according to the old and true import of the word For the Civilians define a Barony to be Merum mistúmque Impertum in aliquo Castro Oppidóve concessione Principis Alciat Lib. de Sing Cert cap. 32. Such a Jurisdiction it was requisite the Men of rank should have here on the Borders and upon obtaining the Grant they were properly Barones Regis Regni See the signification of the word at large in Sir Henry Spelman's Gloss voc Baro. All Lords of Manours are also to this day legally nam'd Barons in the Call and Stile of their Courts which are Curiae Baronum c. Selden's Titles of Honour Part 2. cap. 5. But long before King Edward the first 's time the name of Barones was chiefly apply'd to the Peers in Parliament Thus in the famous Contest about the Votes of Bishops in Criminal Matters in the reign of Henry the second A. D. 1163. we have this decision of the Controversie Archiepiscopi Episcopi c. sicut caeteri Barones debent interesse judiciis Curiae Regis cum Baronibus quousque perveniatur ad diminutionem Membrorum vel ad mortem Matth. Par. edit Watsii p. 101. Many like Instances might be given 〈…〉 c Caer-vorran may not improbably be Glanoventa which Mr. Camden imagines to have been somewhere on Wentsbeck For there is a place near it which is still call'd Glen-welt The distance from hence to Walwick will suit well enough with the Itinerary and 't is not the first Elbow which Antonine has made in his Roads through this part of the Country Thus by fetching in Castra Exploratorum he makes it twenty four miles from Blatum Bulgium to Luguvallum whereas the common Road 't is only ten very short ones d Bede's Account of the Roman Wall Eccl. Hist l. 5. c. 10. is very likely fair and true For in some places on the Wasts where there has not been any extraordinary Fortifications several fragments come near that height and none exceed it His breadth also at eight foot is accurate enough For whereever you measure it now you will always find it above seven 〈◊〉 e Old-town seems more likely to be the Alone of Antoninus in the Liber Notitiarum Alione than any other place which has hitherto been thought on It answers best the distances both from Galana and Galacum and many Roman Antiquities which have been found there strengthen the conjecture The name of the river also whereon 't is seated argues as strongly for this place as West-Alon can do for Whitley f The huge heaps of small Cobbles are not the only Monuments which these Wasts afford There are also large stones erected at several places in remembrance as is fancied of so many battels or skirmishes either anciently betwixt the Britains and Picts or of later times betwixt the English and Scots Particularly near Ninwick in the Parish of Simondburn four such stand still erected and a fifth lyes fall'n to the ground g Notwithstanding the great encouragement which
the honour of the Earl of Huntley from K. James the second in the year 1449. l MVRRAY BEyond the mountain Grampius which by a continual range of close join'd hills as it were extends its ridge with many risings and sinkings to this very country the Vacomagi in ancient times had their habitation upon the Bay of Vararis Vacomagi Sinus Vararis where now Murray Murray Frith lies in Latin Moravia noted for its fertility pleasantness and profitable product of fruit-trees The Spey a noble river opens a passage through this countrey into the sea wherein it lodges it self after it hath watered Rothes Castle whence the Family of Lesley derive their title of Earl ever since K. James the 2d advanced Geo. Lesley to the honour of Earl of Rothes Of this Spey thus our Poet Necham Spey loca mutantis praeceps agitator arenae Inconstans certas nescit habere vias Officium lintris corbis subit hunc regit audax Cursus labentis nauta fluenta sequens Great Spey drives forward with impetuous force Huge banks of sand and knows no certain course Here for a boat an Osier-pannier row'd By some bold peasant glides along the flood The river Loxa mentioned by Ptolemy now call'd Losse hides it self hard by in the sea Near this we have a sight of Elgin in which as also in Forres adjoining J. Dunbar of Cumnock descended from the House of the Earls of March does justice as hereditary Sheriff But when it is now ready to enter the sea it finds a more plain and soft soil and spreads it self into a lake well stored with Swans wherein the Herb Olorina grows plentifully Here upon it stands Spiny Barons Spiny Castle of which Alexander of the House of Lindsay is now the first Baron As also Kinloss Ba●on Kinloss a near neighbour formerly a famous Monastery call'd by some Kill-flos from certain flowers there miraculously springing up on a sudden where the corps of King Duff murdered and here hidden was first found * In the year 972. hath for its Lord Edward Brus Master of the Rolls in England and one of His Majestie 's Privy Council created by K. James the 6th Baron Brus of Kinloss a Now Earls of Elgin Thus much for the shore More inward where Bean Castle now stands look'd upon to be that Banatia Banatia mentioned by Ptolemy there was found in the year 1460 a Marble Vessel very finely engraved and full of Roman coins Hard by is Nardin or Narne Narne Sheriffdom an Hereditary Sheriffdom of the Cambells of Lorn where in a Peninsula there stood a fort of a mighty height built with wonderful works and formely held by the Danes A little off is Logh-Nesse a very large lake three and twenty miles long the water whereof is so warm that even in this cold and frozen climate it never freezes from this by a very small Isthmus of hills the Logh Lutea or Lothea which by Aber lets it self into the western Ocean is divided Upon these lakes there stood anciently two noted fortifications called from the loghs one Innerness the other Innerlothy Innerness hath the Marquess of Huntley for its hereditary Sheriff who hath a large Jurisdiction hereabout * See th● Additions But take here what J. Johnston writes upon these two places INNERNESS and INNERLOCHY Imperii veteris duo propugnacula quondam Primaque regali moenia structa manu Turribus oppositis adverso in limine spectant Haec Zephyrum Solis illa orientis equos Amnibus hinc atque hinc cincta utique piscibus amnes Foecundi haec portu perpete tuta patet Haec fuit at jacet heu jam nunc sine nomine tellus Hospita quae Regum est hospita facta feris Altera spirat adhuc tenuis sufflamina vitae Quae dabit fati turbine victa manus Dic ubi nunc Carthago potens ubi Martia Roma Trojaque immensae ditis opes Asiae Quid mireris enim mortalia cedere fatis Corpora cum videas oppida posse mori Two stately forts the realm's old guardians stood The first great walls of royal builders prov'd Their lofty turrets on the shores were shown One to the rising one the setting sun All round well stock'd with fish fair rivers lay And one presents a safe and easie bay Such once it was but now a nameless place Where Princes lodg'd the meanest cattel graze T'other survives and faintly breaths as yet But must e're long submit to conqu'ring fate Where 's haughty Carthage now with all her power Where 's Rome and Troy that rul'd as great before Where the vast riches of the Asian shore No wonder then that we frail men should die When towns themselves confess mortality In the reign of K. Robert Brus Thomas Randolph his sister's son a person that took infinite pains for his country and met with much opposition was very famous under the title of Earl of Murray E●rl● of ●●●ray In the reign of K. Rob. 2. John de Dunbar had the King's daughter and with her the Earldom of Murray as an amends for her lost virginity Under K. James the 2d William Creichton Lord Chancellor of the Kingdom and Archibald Douglass had a violent contest for this Earldom when against the laws and ancient customs of the Realm Douglass who had married the younger daughter of James de Dunbar Earl of Murray was preferr'd before Creichton who had married the elder by the power and great interest that William Earl Douglass had with the King which was so very great that he did not only advance this brother to the Earldom of Murray but another brother likewise to the Earldom of Ormond and two of his Cousins to the Earldoms of Angus and Morton But this his greatness a thing never to be trusted to when so exorbitant was his ruin soon after Under King James the 5th his own brother whom he had constituted Vicegerent of the Kingdom enjoyed this honour And within our memory James a natural son of K. James the 5th had this honour conferr'd upon him by his sister Qu. Mary who ill requited her when having gotten some few of the Nobility on his side he deposed her a most wicked precedent for crowned Heads But the punishment of heaven soon fell upon him being quickly after shot through with a musquet bullet His only daughter brought this title to her husband James Steward of Down descended of the Blood Royal to wit of the Dukes of Albany who being slain by some that envied him left behind him his son James his successor in this honour m LOQHVABRE ALl that tract of land beyond the Nesse which bends down to the western coast and joins to the lake Aber is thence called Loghuabre that is in the ancient British Tongue The Mouth of the Lakes That which lies towards the northern coast Rosse Loghuabre abounds much in pastures and woods and hath some veins of iron but very little produce of corn It
from the Church as a Feudatory and Vicegerent and obliged his Successors to pay three hundred Marks to the Bishop of that See Yet the most eminent 1 Sir Thomas Hol. Thomas Moor who sacrificed his life to the Pope's Prerogative denies this to be true For he says the Romanists can shew no grant and that they have never demanded the said money nor the Kings of England acknowledged it However with submission to this great man the thing is really otherwise as most clearly appears from the Parliament-Rolls which are evidence incontestable For in a Parliament in Edward the third's Reign the Chancellor of England informs the House That the Pope intended to cite the King of England to a tryal at Rome as well for homage as for the tribute due and payable from England and Ireland and to which King John had bound both himself and his Successors and desired their opinion in it The Bishops required a day to consider of this matter apart as likewise did the Lords and Commons The next day they met again and unanimously voted and declared that forasmuch as neither King John nor any other King whatsoever could put the Kingdom under such a servitude but by the consent and agreement of a Parliament which was never had and farther that since whatsoever he had done in that kind was directly contrary to the Oath which he solemnly took before God at his Coronation if the Pope would insist upon it they were resolved to oppose him with their lives and fortunes to the very utmost of their power Such also as were learned in the law made the Charter of King John to be void and insignificant by that clause of reservation in the end saving to us and our heirs all our rights liberties and regalities But this is out of my road From King John's time the Kings of England were stiled Lords of Ireland till within the memory of our fathers Henry the eighth was declared King of Ireland by the States of that Realm assembled in Parliament the title of Lord seeming not so sacred and venerable to some seditious persons as that of King In the year 1555 when Queen Mary offered the subjection of the Kingdom of England by the hands of her Ambassadors to Pope Paul the fourth this name and title of Kingdom of Ireland was confirmed by the Pope in these word To the praise and glory of Almighty God and his most glorious mother the Virgin Mary to the honour of the whole Court of Heaven and the exaltation of the Catholick Faith We at the humble request of King Philip and Queen Mary made unto us by the advice of our brethren and by virtue of our full Apostolical authority do erect the Kingdom of Ireland and do for ever dignifie and exalt it with the title honours powers rights ensigns prerogatives preferments Royal praeeminencies and such like privileges as other Christian Realms have use and enjoy or may have use and enjoy hereafter Having accidentally found a Catalogue of those English Noble men who went in the first invasion of Ireland and with great valor subdued it to the Crown of England lest I should seem to envy them and their posterity the glory of this atchievment I will here give you them from the Chancery of Ireland for so 't is entitled The Names of such as came with Dermic Mac Morrog into Ireland Richard Strongbow Earl of Pembroke who by Eve the daughter of Morrog the Irish petty King aforesaid had an only daughter who brought to William Mareschall the title of Earl of Pembroke with a fair estate in Ireland and had issue five sons who in order succeeded one another all childless and as many daughters who enriched their husbands Hugh Bigod Earl of Norfolk Guarin Montchensey Gilbert Clare Earl of Glocester William Ferrars Earl of Derby and William Breose with children honours and possessions Robert Fitz-Stephens Harvey de Mont Marish Maurice Prendergest Robert Barr. Meiler Meilerine Maurice Fitz-Girald Redmund nephew to Stephen William Ferrand Miles de Cogan Richard de Cogan Gualter de Ridensford Gualter sons of Maurice Girald Alexander sons of Maurice Girald William Notte Robert Fitz-Bernard Hugh de Lacy. William Fitz-Aldelm William Macarell Hunfrey Bohun Hugh de Gundevill Philip de Hasting Hugh Tirell David Walsh Robert Poer Osbert de Harloter William de Bendenge Adam de Gernez Philip de Breos Griffin Nephew of Stephen Ralph Fitz-Stephen Walter de Barry Philip Walsh Adam de Hereford To whom out of Giraldus Cambrensis may be added John de Curcy Hugh Contilon Redmond Cantimore Edmond Fitz-Hugh Miles of St. Davids and others The Government of the Kingdom of IRELAND SInce Ireland has been subject to the Crown of England the Kings of this Realm have ever sent their Vice-Roys to manage the publick affairs there who at first in their Letters Patents or Commissions Lo●d Dep●●ies of ●●●●and were stilled Keepers of Ireland after that Justices of Ireland or at pleasure Lieutenants and Deputies Their jurisdiction and authority is really large and Royal they make war and peace have power to fill all Magistracies and other Offices except some very few to pardon all crimes but those of high treason and to confer Knighthood c. These Letters Patents when any one enters upon this honourable office are publickly read and after the new Deputy has took a solemn oath of a certain set form for that purpose before the Chancellor the sword which is to be carried before him is delivered into his hands and he is seated in a Chair of state attended by the Chancellor of the Realm the Members of the Privy-Council the Peers and Nobles of the Kingdom the King at Arms a Serjeant at Arms and other Officers of State So that whether we consider his jurisdiction and authority or his train attendance and splendor there is certainly no Vice-roy in Christendom that comes nearer the grandeur and majesty of a King His Council are the Chancellor of the Realm the Treasurer and such others of the Earls Barons and Judges as are of the Privy-Council Orders or degrees i● Ireland For Ireland has the same orders and degrees of honour that England has Earls Barons Knights Esquires c. The Courts or Tribunals of IRELAND THE supream Court in Ireland is the Parliament which Parliament at the pleasure of the King of England is either called or dissolved by his Deputy ●as an 〈◊〉 12. and yet in Edward the second 's time it was enacted That Parliaments should be held in Ireland every year 2 Which seemeth yet not to have been effected Here are likewise observed foure Law-terms in the year as in England and five Courts of Justice held 〈◊〉 the a The Court was called The Court of Castle-chamber because it was usually kept in the Castle of Dublin but has never been held since the Court of Star-Chamber was supprest in England Star-Chamber the Chancery King's-Bench Common Pleas and the Exchequer Here are
confiscated by Act of Parliament The head city of this county is Limerick encompass'd by the Shanon a famous river which divides its stream and embraces it The Irish call it ſ Louminagh is the name Loumeagh Lime●ick L umeagh the English Limerick It is a Bishop's See and the great mart of this Province of Munster first taken by Reimund le Gross an Englishman the son of William Girald afterwards it was burnt by Duvenald a petty King of Thuetmond At last it was given in fee to Philip Breos an Englishman and King John fortified it with a castle At present t is reputed two towns the upper for so they call it where stands the cathedral and the castle has two gates which give entrance to it and each of them a fair stone bridge leading to them strengthen'd with bulwarks and little draw-bridges one of which leads Westward the other East The lower town which is joyned to this is fortified with a wall and castle and a fore-gate at the entrance More to the East stands Clan-William Clan-William so called from a family of that name descended from the House de Burgo which the Irish call Bourk who inhabit it Of this family was that William who slew James Fitz-Moris the plague and firebrand of this country upon whom Queen Elizabeth conferr'd the title and honour of Baron of Castle-Conel where Richard Rufus Earl of Ulster Baron ●f Cast●e-Cone● had fortified the Castle together with a yearly pension in recompense for his bravery and the loss of his sons slain in that conflict In the South part of this county stands t Killmalock Kil-mallo next in dignity to Limerick both in respect of plenty and populousness and walled round Likewise Adare a little town fortified heretofore situate upon the same river which straightways from thence runs into the Shanon near which stands u This is now in the County of Cork Clan Gibbon Cl●n Gibb●n the Lord whereof John Fitz-Girald called John Oge Fitz-John Fitz-Gibbon and from the grey hair of his head the white Knight was banished by Act of Parliament But by the clemency of Queen Elizabeth his son was restored to the whole estate The most noted and eminent in this tract besides these Bourks and Fitz-Giralds are the Lacies the Browns the Hurleys the Chacys the Sapells the Pourcells all of English extraction the Mac-Shees and the Mac-brien O Brians c. of Irish extraction The County of TIPPERARY THE County of Tipperary is bounded on the west with that of Limerick and the river Shanon on the east with the County of Kilkenny on the south with the Counties of Cork and Waterford and on the north with the territory of the O Carolls The south part is very fruitful produces much corn and is well built The west part of it is water'd by the long course of the river Glason Emely not far from the bank whereof stands Emely or Awn a Bishop's See and by report a very populous and well frequented city heretofore The Sewer or Swire a noble river which rises at Badin-hill runs through the middle of it and so through the lower Ossery Lower-Oss●ry which by the bounty of King Henry the 8th gave the title of Earl to the Butlers and then through Thurles which gave them the title of Viscounts from whence it passes by Holy-Cross a famous Abby heretofore which makes the Country about it to be commonly called the County of the Holy Cross of Tipperary The County of the holy Cross of Tipperary The wood of the Cross This Abby enjoys certain privileges granted in honour of a piece of Christ's Cross preserv'd there The whole world says St. Cyrill is fill'd with pieces of this Cross and yet as Paulinus says by a constant miracle it hath never been diminished This was the belief and opinion of Christians in ancient times And it is incredible what a concourse of people do still out of devotion throng hither as to a holy place For this nation does yet firmly persevere in the religion of their fore-fathers which is now grown in more reputation than ever by the neglect and ignorance of their Bishops for there is none here to instruct them otherwise Cassil From hence the Swire passes by Cassil adorn'd with an Archbishop's See by Eugenius the third Bishop of Rome with many suffragan Bishops under it and so forward making many Islands as it runs along till it encompasses Cahir-Castle which has its Baron one of the family of the Butlers raised to that honour by Queen Elizabeth But his son proving disloyal was thereupon attainted the castle being taken by the Earl of Essex in the year 1599 and he himself committed From whence it runs by Clomell Clomell a market town of good resort and well fortified and also by Carick Mac-Griffin situated upon a rock from which it takes its name the habitation of the Earls of Ormond which with the honour of Earl of Carrick was granted by King Edward the 2d to Edmund Boteler or Butler Here it leaves Tipperary Earl of Ca●rick Ann● 9. Edw. 2. and becomes a boundary to the Counties of Waterford and Kilkenny Thus much concerning the south part of this County That northward is but barren and mountaneous twelve of the hills here are huddled together and over-top the rest these they call Phelem-ge-Modona This north part is call'd in Latin Ormondia Ormondia Butlers Earls of O●mand●● in Irish Orwowon that is The front of Mounster in English Ormond and by many very corruptly Wormewood It s glory is from its Earls who have been many since James Butler a The heir of this noble family is now Duke of Ormond both in England and Ireland to whom and his heirs King Edw. the third gave this title for term of life Anno 2. Ed. 3. together with the royalties and other liberties as also the Knights-fees in the County of Tipperary which by the favour of the Kings of England his posterity still enjoy Earl f Tipperary Hence this County is reputed Palatine and he has been call'd by some the Earl of Tipperary The ancestors of this James were heretofore Butlers of Ireland an honourable office from which they derive the name of Le Boteler or Butler Those of this family were nearly related to Thomas Becket Archbishop of Canterbury being descended from his sister After his murder they were translated into Ireland by King Hen. the 2d who hoped to redeem his credit in the world by preferring his relations to wealth and honours The first Earl of Ormond in this family was James son of Edmund Earl of Carrick who married the daughter of Humphry Bohun Earl of Hereford by a daughter of King Edw. the first and this was their first step towards honour Hereupon his son James was commonly called by the people the noble Earl The fifth Earl of this family not to be particular in the account of them had the
Forts by our provident forefathers to preserve the country against inroads Then it falls from a huge mouth into the * Called by other● Marc Br●danicum Western Ocean beyond Knoc-Patrick i.e. Patrick's hill for so Necham calls it in these Verses of his upon the Shanon Fluminibus magnis laetatur Hibernia Sineus Inter Connatiam Momoniamque fluit Transit per muros Limerici Knoc Patric illum Oceani clausum sub ditione videt Great streams do Ireland's happy tracts adorn Shanon between Conaught and Munster's born By Limerick's walls he cuts his boundless way And at Knoc-Patrick's shore is lost i' th' sea CONAGHT THE fourth part of Ireland which looks westward enclosed with the river Shanon the out-let of Lough Erne by some called Trovis by others Bana and with the main Western Ocean is called by Giraldus Cambrensis Conoghtia and Conacia by the English Conaght and by the Irish Conaghty Antiently as appears from Ptolemy the Gangani Gangani otherwise called the Concani Concani Auteri A●teri and Nagnatae Nagnatae lived here These Concani or Gangani as the Luceni their neighbours descended from the Lucensii of Spain are probably both from the affinity between the names and places derived from the Concani of Spain who in different Copies of Strabo are writ Coniaci and Conisci these were originally Scythians and drank the blood of horse as Silius testifies a thing not unusual heretofore among the wild Irish Et qui Messagetem monstrans feritate parentem Cornipedis susa satiaris Concane vena Concans that prove themselves of Scythian strain And horses blood drink from the reeking vein And Horace also Et laetum equino sanguine Concanum And Concans warm with horses blood Unless perhaps Conaughty this Irish name could be thought compounded of Concani and Nagnatae The Country as in some places 't is pleasant and fruitful so in others that are wet and marshy called Boghs from their softness which are common also in other parts of this Island it is dangerous but produces good grass and very much wood The Sea-coast has so many bays and navigable rivers in it that it seems to invite the inhabitants to navigation However these advantages have not that effect upon this people so charm'd with sloth and idleness that they had rather live by begging than supply their own wants by their own labour At present it is divided into these Counties Twomond or Clare Gallway Maio Slego Letrim and Roscoman The Concani above mentioned peopled the South part of Conaght where now lye the Counties of Twomond or Clare Gallway the Territory of Clan-Richard and the Barony of Atterith TWOMOND or the County of CLARE TWomon or Twomond by Giraldus Thuetmonia by the Irish Towown i.e. the North-Mounster shooteth out with a very great Promontory which tapers by little and little into the sea Though it lye beyond the Shanon yet it was a It has been since made part of Munster at the request of the Earl of Twomond and continues so to this day formerly counted within Mounster till 30 Sir Henry Henry Sidney Lord Deputy laid it to Conaght On the East and South side it is enclosed by the winding course of the Shanon which still waxes bigger and bigger as it runs along on the West it is so shut up by the Sea and on the North by the County of Gallway that there is no coming to it by land but through the territory of Clan-Richard Neither the sea nor the soil would be wanting to the happiness of this County if the Inhabitants would contribute their pains and industry which was formerly excited by 31 Sir Robert Robert de Muscegros an English Gentleman Richard Clare and Thomas Clare younger sons of the family of the Earls of Glocester to whom Ed. 1. gave this County Here they built many towns and castles and invited the natives to live sociably From their name the head town of this county is called Clare which is now the habitation of the Earl of Twomond and gives name to the County of Clare The places more eminent in it are Kilfennerag and Killaloe ●●loe or Laonensis a Bishop's See This in the Roman Provincial is called Ladensis here a rock stands in the middle of the Shanon from whence the water falls down with great noise and violence ●●●ract This rock hinders ships from sailing any higher up and if it could be cut through or removed or if the chanel could be drawn round it the river might bring up ships far higher into the country which would much conduce to the wealth of it Not far from the Shanon stands b Bunratty and Clare are at this day very sorry villages Ennis being the Shire-town and by much the best in the County Bunraty Bunraty for which 31 Sir Robert Robert Muscegros obtained the privilege of a market and fair from King Henry 3. and after he had also fortified it with a Castle he gave it to King Edward who gave this and the whole County to Richard Clare already mentioned Seven miles from hence stands Clare Clare the chief town of this County upon a Creek of the Shanon full of Islands and these are the 2 only Market-towns in this shire Many of those English who were formerly transplanted hither are either rooted out * Vel degenerarunt or turned Irish At present the wealth and interest of this County is in the hands of the Irish the c Mac-Nemarras Mac-Nemars Mac-Mahons O-loghtons and above all the O-Briens descended from the antient petty Kings of Conaght or as they say from the Monarchs of Ireland Of these Morogh O-Brien was the first Earl of Twomond Earls of Twomond who had that honour given him by King Henry 8. for term of life and after to his Nephew Donogh who was made at the same time Baron of Ibercan he succeeded him in the Earldom and was slain by his brother 32 Sir Donell Hol. Donell Connogher d This O-Brien seems to have been Connagher O-Brien Donagh's son O-Brien son of this Donogh was the third Earl and had a son Donogh the fourth Earl who has given sufficient proofs of his valour and loyalty to his King and Country The County of GALLWAY THE County of Gallway on the south borders upon Clare on the west upon the Ocean on the north upon the County of Meth and on the east upon the river Shanon The soil very well requites the pains both of the husband-man and the shepherd The west-side is much chop'd and dinted with many little aestuaries bordered all along with a mixture of green Islands and rugged rocks among them are the four Islands called Arran 〈◊〉 of ●ron which make a Barony fabulously talk'd of as if they were the Islands of the living and the inhabitants exempt from the common fate of mortals Next Inis-ceath formerly famous for a Monastery of Scots and English founded by Colman a person of great sanctity
the Key the Church of the Preaching Friers the Church of the Monks and no small part of the Monastery about the Ides of June namely on the feast of S. Medard Item This year was laid the foundation of the Quire for Friers-Predicants in Dublin by Eustace Lord Pover on the feast of the Virgin S. Agatha Item After the purification the King of France invaded Flanders in person with a brave Army He behav'd himself gallantly in this War and in one Battel had two or three Horses kill'd under him But at last he lost the Cap under his Helmet which the Flemings carried off upon a Spear in derision and in all the great Fairs in Flanders it was hung out at a high Window of some great House or other like the Sign of an Inn or Tavern as the Token of their Victory MCCCV Jordan Comyn and his Accomplices kill'd Moritagh O Conghir King of Offaley and Calwagh his * Germanum whole Brother and certain others in the Court of Sir Peter Bymgeham at Carryck in Carbery Likewise Sir Gilbert Sutton Seneschal of Weisford was slain by the Irish near the Village of Haymond Grace which Haymond fought stoutly in this Skirmish and escap'd by his great Valour Item In Scotland the Lord Robert Brus Earl of Carrick without regard to his Oath of Allegiance to the King of England kill'd Sir John Rede Comyn within the Cloister of the Friers-minors of Dunfrese and soon after got himself crown'd King of Scotland by the hands of two Bishops the one of S. Andrews and the other of Glasco in the Town of Scone to the ruin of himself and many others MCCCVI In Offaley near Geshil-castle a great defeat was given to O Conghor by O Dympcies on the Ides of April O Brene K. of * Tothomoniae Towmond died this year Donald Oge Mac-carthy Donald Ruff King of Desmond A sad overthrow was given to a Party of Piers Brymegham in the Marches of Meth on the fourth day before the Kalends of May. Balimore in Leinster was burnt by the Irish and Henry Calfe slain there at the same time whereupon a War broke out between the English and the Irish in Leinster and a great Army was drawn together from all parts against the Irish Sir Thomas Mandevil a gallant Soldier in this Expedition had a sharp conflict with the Irish near Glenfell wherein he fought bravely till his Horse was slain and won great honour for the saving the lives of several others as well as his own Item Thomas Cantok Chancellour of Ireland was consecrated Bishop of Ymelasen in Trinity-Church at Dublin with great honour the Elders of Ireland were present at this Consecration and there was such great feasting both for the rich and for the poor as had never been known before in Ireland Item Richard Feringes Archbishop of Dublin died on S. Luke's-eve and was succeeded by Master Richard Haverings who held that See almost five years by the Pope's dispensation At last he resign'd his Archbishoprick and was succeeded by John Lech The cause of this resignation as the Archdeacon of Dublin his nephew a man of note hath said was a dream which he had one night wherein he fancied That a certain monster heavier than the whole world stood upright upon his breast and that he renounc'd all the goods he had in this world to be rid of it When he waken'd he began to reflect how this was certainly the Church of Dublin the fruits whereof he had received without taking pains to deserve them Upon this he went to the Lord the Pope as soon as he could with whom he was much in favour and relinquish'd his Archbishoprick For he had as the same Archdeacon averr'd other benefices of greater value than the Archbishoprick itself Item On the feast of Pentecost at London King Edward conferr'd Knighthood upon his son Edward and four hundred more sixty of whom were made by the said Edward of Carnarvan as soon as he was knighted He held his feast in London at the new Temple and his father gave him the Dutchy of Aquitain Item On the feast of S. Potentiana the Bishops of Winchester and Worcester by an order from the Pope excommunicated Robert Brus the pretended King of Scotland and his party for the death of John Rede Comyn This year upon S. Boniface's day Aumar de Valence Earl of Pembroch and Lord Guy Earl cut off many of the Scots and the Lord Robert Brus was defeated near the town of S. Johns This year about the nativity of S. John baptist King Edward went by water from Newark to Lincoln toward Scotland Item This year the Earl of Asceles the Lord Simon Freysell the Countess of Carryck and the pretended Queen of Scotland daughter to the Earl of Ulster were taken Prisoners The Earl of Asceles and the Lord Simon Freysell were torn to peices The Countess remain'd with the King in great honour but the rest died miserably in Scotland Item About the feast of the Purification two brothers of Robert Brus that were both pyrats were taken prisoners with sixteen Scots besides as they landed to plunder the country the two brothers were torn to pieces at Carlile and the rest hanged Item Upon S. Patrick's day Mac Nochi and his two sons were taken prisoners near the New Castle in Ireland by Thomas Sueterby O boni and there Lorran Obons a great robber was beheaded MCCCVII On the third before the kalends of April Murcard Ballagh was beheaded by Sir David Caunton a valiant Knight near Marton and soon after Adam Dan was slain On Philip and Jacob's day Oscheles gave the English a bloody defeat in Connaght Item The castle of Cashill was pull'd down by the rapparies of Offaly and on the eve of the translation of S. Thomas they also burnt the town of Lye and besieg'd the castle but this was soon rais'd by John Fitz-Thomas and Edward Botiller Item This year died King Edward the first and his son Edward succeeded him who buried his father in great state at Westminster with honour and reverence Item Edward the younger married the Lady Isabell the King of France's daughter in S. Mary's church at Bologn and shortly after they were both crown'd in Westminster Abby Item The Templars in foreign parts being condemn'd for heresie as it was reported were apprehended and clapt in prison by the Pope's mandate In England likewise they were all taken the very next day after Epiphany In Ireland also they were taken into custody the day after the Purification MCCCVIII On the second of the ides of April died the Lord Peter de Bermingham a noble champion against the Irish Item On the 4th of the ides of May the castle of Kenin was burnt down and some of the guards slain by William Mac Balthor Cnygnismy Othothiles and his partisans Item On the 6th day before the ides of June the Lord John Wogan Justiciary of Ireland was defeated with his army near Glyndelory In this encounter were slain John
when he dy'd but had this answer return'd That no man should have commanded them more freely if they had not been promis'd to Dr. Bancroft Archbishop of Canterbury Upon his death he translated the right of them to his Successor Dr. George Abbot who had undertook to publish them and the Bishop tells us in the same Manuscript that he had heard Archbishop Laud say they were deposited in the Palace at Lambeth 'T is probable these were only such as related to the Ecclesiastical Affairs of that time which Mr. Camden did not think himself so immediately concern'd in But what they were cannot now be known they must have been destroy'd in that havock and confusion made in the Library of Archbishop Laud by Prinne Scot and Hugh Peters for upon a diligent search made by the late Dr. Sancroft at his first promotion to the See of Canterbury not one scrap of them appear'd From the end of Queen Elizabeth to his own death he kept a Since publisht with his Epistles Diary of all the remarkable passages in the reign of King James Not that he could so much as dream of living to make use of them himself at that age and under those many infirmities which a laborious life had drawn upon him But he was willing however to contribute all the assistance he could to any that should do the same honour to the reign of King James which he had done to that of Queen Elizabeth If this were practis'd by Persons of Learning and Curiosity who have opportunity of seeing into the Publick Affairs of a Kingdom what a large step would it be towards a History of the respective times For after all the short hints and strictures of that kind do very often set things in a truer light than regular Histories which are but too commonly written to serve a Party and so draw one insensibly out of the right way Whereas if men are left to themselves to make their own inferences from simple matters of fact as they lay before them tho' perhaps they may often be at a loss how to make things hang together yet their aim shall be still true and they shall hardly be mistaken in the main One single matter of fact faithfully and honestly deliver'd is worth a thousand Comments and Flourishes Thus the interest of the Publick was the business of Mr. Camden's life and he was serviceable to Learning till his dying day For so much merit one would think the greatest rewards too mean but a little serv'd his turn who always thought it more honourable to deserve than to have preferments Ep. 195. He never made application to any man for promotion but so long as he faithfully discharg'd the office he had was content to trust Providence for what should follow The first step he made was the second Mastership of Westminster-School in the year 1575. In this station he continu'd till the death of Dr. Grant Head-Schoolmaster which hapned in 1593. whom he succeeded But before that two years after the first edition of his Britannia he had the Prebend of Ilfarcomb belonging to the Church of Salisbury bestow'd upon him by Dr. John Piers Bishop of that See What satisfaction it was to him to see the fruits of his industry in the School learn from his own expression of it in a Letter to Archbishop Usher At Westminster says he God so blessed my labours that the now Bishop of London Durham and St. Asaph to say nothing of persons imploy'd in eminent place abroad and many of especial note at home of all degrees do acknowledge themselves to have been my Scholars What a comfortable reflexion was this That he had laid the foundation of those pillars which prov'd so considerable supports both to Church and State Here he liv'd frugally and Epist 195. by his long labours in the School gather'd a contented sufficiency for his life and a supply for all the charitable benefactions at his death Epist ead He refus'd a mastership of Requests when offer'd and kept to his School See above till the place of King at Arms was conferr'd upon him without his own application or so much as knowledge These were all the Preferments he was ever possest of We might have reckon'd another if the following project had but succeeded In the year 1609. Dr. Sutcliff Dean of Exeter resolv'd upon building a College at Chelsey for a certain number of Divines who should make it their only business to confute the Errors of the Church of Rome The Proposal was highly approv'd of by King James who accordingly nominated the Doctor first Provost of the College May 10. 1610. and seventeen very eminent Divines under the title of Fellows And because it was evident that matters of History would of course fall in with Controversies in Religion they concluded it necessary to be arm'd against all such cases and so pitch'd upon two excellent Historians Mr. Camden and John Hayward Doctor of the Civil Law See Middlesex under Chelsey They fell to building but found their Revenues fall short and so the whole design drop'd To be particular in his Acquaintance would be to reckon up almost all the learned men of his time When he was young Learned men were his Patrons when he grew up the Learned were his intimates and when he came to be old he was a Patron to the Learned So that Learning was his only care and learned men the only comfort of his life What an useful and honourable correspondence he had settl'd both at home and abroad does best appear from his Letters and with what candour and easiness he maintain'd it the same Letters may inform us The work he was engag'd in for the honour of his native Country gain'd him respect at home and admiration abroad so that he was look'd upon as a common Oracle and for a Foreigner to travel into England and return without seeing Mr. Camden was thought a very gross omission He was visited by six German Noblemen at one time and at their request wrote his Lemma in each of their Books as a testimony that they had seen him Brissonius Prime Minister of State in the French Court when he was sent into England by his master K. Hen. 3. to treat of a match between his brother the Duke of Anjou and Queen Elizabeth would not return a stranger to Mr. Camden who tho' but second School-master of Westminster and not full thirty years of age had yet those qualities which effectually recommended him to the friendship and conversation of that great man Some of the Servants of the Elector Palatine who came over about the match with Elizabeth eldest daughter to King James were severely reprov'd by Gruter for neglecting to do themselves that piece of honour He wonder'd with what face they could stay so many months in England and all the while Neque consulere ejus oraculum unicum neque adspicere ejus astrum primum not consult its only Oracle nor see the brightest Star in it
〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Near the great pillars on the farthest land The old Iberians haughty souls command Along the Continent where Northern Seas Rowl their vast tides and in cold billows rise Where British nations in long tracts appear And fair-skinn'd Germans ever fam'd in war For these words 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 where Britains seem to have respect to those other 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 And Eustathius who wrote a Comment upon him thinks the Britains in Gaul to be here meant 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 are his words and of these Britains the Isles of Britain over against them took their denomination But Avienus and Stephanus in his book of Cities are of another opinion Re●ig●on Moreover there was one and the same Religion in both these Nations Among the Britains saith Tacitus you will find in use the Religion of the Gauls and the people possess'd with the same superstitious persuasions The Gauls saith Solinus after a detestable manner to the injury rather than the honour of Religion offer'd human Sacrifices That the Britains did the very same amongst others Dio Cassius assures us in his Nero. That both Nations had also their Druids Dr●ids appears plainly by Caesar and Tacitus Out of the first I shall here insert an entire place concerning this subject The Druids are present at all divine offices look after all both publick and private sacrifices and interpret the mysteries of religion The youth in great numbers apply themselves to these Druids for education and all people have a great reverence for them For generally in all controversies as well publick as private it is they that make the determination And whenever there is any outrage or murder committed when any suites arise about estates or disputes about bounds all is left to their judgment They appoint rewards and punishments at their discretion If any either private person or body of people abide not by their decree they forbid him the Sacrifices This among them is esteem'd the most grievous of all punishments Those who are thus interdicted are reckon'd the most profligate of mankind all men studiously decline their company and conversation and shun their approach as if they feared some real infection They are excluded from the benefit of the law can sue no man and are uncapable of all honours Amongst all these Druids there is one chief who hath the supream authority Upon his death his Successor is some one that hath the best repute amongst them if there be any such but if there be several of equal worth and merit he succeeds by the election of the Druids Sometimes the sword decides which party shall carry it These Druids at a set time every year have a general assembly in the territories of the Carnutes that lyes about the midst of Gaul in a certain place consecrated to that purpose Hither resort from all parts such as have any controversies depending and are wholly determin'd by the Druids ſ The Britains and Gauls having the same Religion does plainly argue an Alliance as Mr. Camden urges but if the discipline of the Druids so considerable both for religion and Government were as Caesar observes first found in Britain and thence convey'd into Gaul does it not seem to intimate that Britain must have been peopled before Gaul as having by longer experience arrived at a more compleat scheme of religion and government Besides if our Island had been peopled from Gaul would it not look probable to say they must bring along with them the religion and discipline of the place This sort of religious profession is thought to have been first in Britain and from thence carry'd over into Gaul And even now those that desire throughly to be instructed in their mysteries for the most part travel into Britain The Druids are exempt from all military duties nor do they pay tribute like the rest of the people And as they are excused from serving in the wars so are they also from all other troublesome charges whatsoever These great privileges are a cause that they have many disciples some address themselves to be admitted others are sent to them by their parents or kindred There they make them as it is said learn by heart a great number of verses and thus they continue under this discipline for several years not being allow'd by their rules to commit what they are taught to writing although almost in all other their affairs both publick and private they make use of the t But from hence we must not conclude that they had any knowledge of the Greek tongue Nay Caesar himself when he writ to Quintus Cicero besieg'd at that time somewhere among the Nervians penn'd his Letter in Greek lest it should be intercepted and so give intelligence to the Enemy Which had been but a poor proj●ct if the Druids who were the great Ministers of State had been masters of the language The learned Selden is of opinion that the word Graecis has crept into the copies and is no part of the original And it was natural enough for Caesar in his observations of the difference between the management of their discipline and their other affairs to say in general that in one they made use of letters and not in the other without specifying any particulars Greek Character This rule they have settl'd amongst them I suppose for two reasons First because they would not have the vulgar made acquainted with their mysterious learning and next because they would have their scholars use and exercise their memories and not trust to what they have in writing as we see it often happen that when men rely too much upon that help both their diligence in learning and care in retaining do equally abate One of the principal points they teach is the Immortality and Transmigration of Souls And this doctrine removing the fear of death they look upon as most proper to excite their courage They also make discourses to their Scholars concerning the stars and their motions concerning the magnitude of the heaven and the earth the nature of things and the power and majesty of the immortal Gods Whereupon Lucan thus addresses himself to them Et vos barbaricos ritus moremque sinistrum Sacrorum Druidae positis repetistis ab armis Solis nosse Deos coeli sydera vobis Aut solis nescire datum Nemora alta remotis Incolitis lucis vobis authoribus umbrae Non tacitas Erebi sedes Ditisque profundi Pallida regna petunt Regit idem spiritus artus Orbe alio longae canitis si cognita vitae Mors media est Certe populi quos despicit Arctos Foelices errore suo quos ille timorum Maximus haud urget lethi metus inde ruendi In ferrum mens prona viris animaeque capaces Mortis ignavum est rediturae parcere vitae And you O Druids free from noise and arms Renew'd your barbarous rites and horrid charms What Gods what Powers
breadth of it Stow S●●● stands upon the sea-coast the ancient seat of the family of the Grenvills G●●● famous for the antiquity and nobility of their pedigree y They are now made Earls of Bathe and the present Earl hath lately built here a very stately house lookt upon to be the finest in the West of England Amongst the rest Richard in the time of William Rufus signaliz'd his courage in the Conquest of Glamorganshire in Wales and lately another of the same Christian-name exceeding the nobility of his birth by his own bravery lost his life gallantly in an engagement with the Spaniard at the Azores 23 As I shall shew more fully in my Annals A clause which is not any Latin Edition I have seen and if they all want it he must have had this intimation from Mr. Camden and so by him might be encourag'd in his Translation Near to this is Stratton a market town noted for gardens and its garlick and next to it Lancells a new seat of the ancient family of the z They are now extinct Chaumonds r ●o The river Tamara now Tamar rising not far from the Northern shore runs swiftly and violently towards the South and after it is encreas'd with many little rivulets passes by Tamara a town mention'd by Ptolemy now Tamerton 24 By Tamar an ancient mannour of the Trevilions to whom by marriages the Inheritance of Walesborough and Ralegh of Netlested descended and at a little distance from it is Lanstuphadon i.e. the Church of Stephen commonly call'd Launston 〈…〉 a pretty little town situate upon a rising which out of two other burrows Dunevet and Newport is now grown into one Town In the beginning of the Normans William Earl of Moriton built a a The moles of this castle upon which the Kepe stands Leland tells us is large and of a terrible height and the Arx of it having three several wards is the highest but not the biggest that ever he saw in any ancient work in England castle here and had a College of Prebendaries as appears by Domesday where it is call'd Launstaveton which name it had doubtless from a College there dedicated to S. Stephen and about the year 1150. converted into a monastery b Leland in his Itinerary says that William Warwist Bishop of Exeter suppressing the Collegiate Church of S. Stephen erected a Priory there and gave best part of the College-lands to it taking the residue himself by Reginald Earl of Cornwall This change the Bishops of Exeter too much hurry'd forward by passion and interest did vehemently oppose fearing it might come to be a Bishop's-See and so lessen their jurisdiction At this day it is most remarkable for the publick Gaol and the Assizes being c At present the Assizes are always kept there often kept there Tamar going from hence has the view of a high mountain stretch'd out a great way in length call'd by Marianus d The Saxon Annals call it more distinctly and truly Hengistes dun Hengesdoun and by him interpreted the mountain of Hengist the name it has at present is Hengston-hill 〈◊〉 ●ll It was formerly pretty rich in veins of tinn 25 So that the Country-people had this by-word of it Hengston down well ywrought Is worth London deer ybought and the place where the Tinners of Cornwall and Devonshire met every seventh or eighth year to concert their common interests At this place also in the year 831 the Danmonian Britains with the assistance of the Danes breaking into Devonshire to drive out the English who had then got possession of it were totally routed by King Egbert and cut off almost to a man 26 Beneath it Tamar leaveth Halton formerly the habitation of the Rouses anciently Lords of Little-Modbery in Devonshire Lower down near Saltesse a little market town as I observ'd before plac'd upon a rising and having a Mayor with certain Privileges Tamar receives the river Liver upon which stands that Town of S. Germans mention'd above With this increase it passes to the sea and makes a haven call'd in the Life of Indractus Tamerworth after it has divided Cornwall from Devonshire For King Athelstan who was the first King of England that entirely subdu'd those parts made this the bound between the Cornish Britains and his own English after he had remov'd the Britains out of Devonshire as we learn by Malmesbury who calls the river Tambra Whereupon Alexander Necham in his Hymns upon the Divine Wisdom Loegriae Tamaris divisor Cornubiaeque Indigenas ditat pinguibus isiciis Cornwall from England Tamar's streams divide Whence with fat Salmon all the land 's supply'd e Of this see Drayton's Polyolbion p. 131. where the story is deliver'd at large ●●d ●o This place seems to require something concerning Ursula a Virgin of great sanctity born here and those 11000 British Virgins But whilst some hold them to have been drown'd under Gratian the Emperor in the year 383. upon the coast of Germany as they were sailing to Armorica and others tell us that in the year 450. at Cologn upon the Rhine in their return from Rome they suffer'd Martyrdom from Attila the Hunne that instrument of God's vengeance this difference among Authors has made some instead of believing it an historical truth suspect it to be a mere fable But as to that Constantine call'd by Gildas the tyrannous whelp of an unclean Danmonian Lioness and the disforesting of all this County under K. John f That it was so is undoubtedly true for I have seen a Copy of an Instrument to that purpose dated 22. March An. Reg. Joh. 5. which begins thus Johannes Dei gratia Sciatis nos deforestasse totam Cornubiam c. for before that 't is thought to have been a forest of these matters let the Historians give an account for 't is beside my business As to the Earls Candorus call'd by others Cadocus Earls of Cornwall is mention'd by the modern writers as the last Earl of Cornwall of British extraction his Arms as the Heralds tell you were 15 besants 27 Five four three two and one in a field sable The first Earl of Norman descent was Robert Moriton brother to William the Conqueror as son of Herlotta to whom succeeded William his son This William siding with Robert the Norman against Henry 1. King of England was taken prisoner and lost both his liberty and honors 28 And at last turn'd monk at Bermondsey to whose place Henry 2. whilst he was making preparations for war against Stephen advanc'd Reginald natural son to Henry 1. 29 By the daughter of Sir Robert Corbet for that King was so very incontinent that he had no less than 13 bastards Reginald dying without lawful issue male Rob. de Monte 1175. Henry 2. assigning certain lands to the daughters reserv'd this Earldom for his young son John then but nine years of age upon
whom Richard 1. afterwards bestow'd it with other Counties But John coming to the Crown of England his second son Richard had this honour with the Earldom of Poictou conferr'd upon him by his Brother Henry 3. This Richard was a powerful Prince in his time as also a religious man valiant in war and of great conduct behaving himself in Aquitain with wonderful valour and success Going to the Holy Land he forc'd the Saracens to a truce refus'd the kingdom of Apulia when offer'd him by the Pope quieted many tumults in England and being chosen King of the Romans by the 7 Electors of Germany in the year 1257 was crown'd at Aix la Chapelle There is a common verse which intimates that he bought this honour Nummus ait pro me nubit Cornubia Romae Cornwall to Rome Almighty money joyn'd For before he was so famous a mony'd man that a Cotemporary Writer has told us he was able to spend a hundred marks a day for 10 years together But the civil wars breaking out in Germany 30 Among the Competitors of the Empire he quickly return'd to England where he dy'd and was bury'd at the famous Monastery of Hales which himself had built a little after his eldest son Henry in his return from the Holy wars as he was at his devotions in a Church at Viterbium in Italy had been villanously murder'd by Guido de Montefort son of Simon Earl of Leicester in revenge of his father's death For which reason his second son Edmund succeeded in the Earldom of Cornwall who dying without children his large inheritance return'd to the King he as the Lawyers term it being found next a-kin and heir at law The Arms of the Earls of Cornwall Now since Richard and his son Edmund were of the blood Royal of England I have often declar'd my self at a loss to know how they came to bear Arms different from those of the Royal Family viz. in a field argent a Lyon rampant gules crowned or within a border sable garnish'd with bezants And all the reason I can give for it is that they might possibly do it in imitation of the Royal Family of France since this way of bearing Arms came to us from the French For the younger sons of the Kings of France have Arms different from the Crown to this day as one may observe in the Families of the Vermandois Dreux and Courtneys And as Robert Duke of Burgundy Bande d'Or and d'Azur a la bordeure de G●eules brother of Henry 1. King of France took the ancient Shield of the Dukes of Burgundy so this Richard after he had the Earldom of Poictou bestow'd upon him by his brother K. Henry 3. might probably take that Lyon gules crown'd which as the French Authors inform us belong'd to his Predecessors Earls of Poictou Memoriales de Aquitaine and might add that border sable garnish'd with bezants out of the ancient Shield of the Earls of Cornwall For assoon as the younger sons of France began to bear the Royal Arms with some difference we presently follow'd them and Edward 1.'s children were the first instance But where am I rambling to please my self with the niceties of my own profession After Cornwall was united to the Crown Edward 2. who had large possessions given him by his father in those parts conferr'd the title of Earl of Cornwall upon Priece Gaveston a Gascoine who had been the great debaucher of him in his youth But he being seiz'd by the Barons for corrupting the Prince and for other crimes was beheaded and succeeded by John de Eltham younger son of Edw. 2. 31 Advanc'd thereunto by his brother Edward 3. Hol. who being young and dying without issue Edw. 3. Dukes of Cornwall erected Cornwall into a Dukedom and invested Edward his son a most accomplish'd Soldier in the year 1336 with the Dukedom of Cornwall by a wreath on his head a ring upon his finger and a silver verge Since which time g In the 11 of Edw. 3. it was granted Quod primogenitus filius Regis Angliae qui foret haereditabilis regno foret Dux Cornubiae c. So Richard de Bordeaux son to the Black-Prince was not Duke of Cornwall by virtue hereof but was created by Charter Nor was Elizabeth eldest daughter to King Edw. 4. Dutchess hereof because 't is limited to the Son Neither was Henry 8. in the life-time of his father after the death of Prince Arthur Duke hereof because he was not eldest son as I shall observe from Record leaving still the judgment of it to the opinion of Lawyers the eldest son of the King of England is born Earl of Cornwall and by a special Act made in that case O●● 〈◊〉 H●● he is to be presum'd of full age assoon as ever he is born so that he may claim livery and seisin of the said Dukedom the same day he 's born and ought by right to obtain it as if he had fully compleated the age of twenty one He hath also Royalties and Prerogatives in actions the stannaries wrecks customs c. for which and the like he has certain Officers appointed him But these matters are laid open more distinctly and at large by Richard Carew of Anthony a person no less eminent for his honorable Ancestors than his own virtue and learning who hath describ'd this County at large not contenting himself with a narrow draught and whom I cannot but acknowledge to have been my guide There are in this County 161 Parishes ADDITIONS to CORNWALL CORNWALL as by the situation 't is in a manner cut from the rest of England so by its peculiar customs and privileges added to a difference of Language it may seem to be another Kingdom Upon which account it is necessary to give some light into these matters before we enter upon the Survey of the County Privileges of Cornwall To begin with the Privileges In the 21. of Elizabeth it was order'd that all charge of Custom for transporting of Cornish Cloath upon any English-man within the Dutchy of Cornwall should be discharg'd and that for the future no Custom should be paid for it This was first granted them by the Black-Prince and hath always been enjoy'd by them in consideration that they have paid and do still pay 4 s. for the coynage of every hundred of tinn whereas Devonshire pays but 8 d. They have also the freedom to take sand out of the sea and carry it through the whole County to manure their ground withal * R. Chart. de An. 45 Hen. 3. This is a Grant made by Richard Duke of Cornwall which is confirm'd An. 45 Hen. 3. by that King whereupon in the next Reign upon an Inquisition made we find a complaint that Saltash had lately taken yearly 12 s. for each Barge that carry'd Sand up Tamar whereas nothing ought to have been demanded By this it appears that ever since Hen. 3. at least this has been the
cause probably was to improve his own mannour of Topesham to which one of the Hughs of this family perhaps the same procur'd a weekly market and a yearly fair which Edward Courtney Earl of Devonshire in an out-fall with the citizens threw into the chanel of the river Isc which hinders ships from coming to the town so that all merchandize is brought thither by land from Topesham a little village three miles from the city Nor are these heaps remov'd tho' it is commanded by Act of Parliament o From these a small village hard by is call'd Weare Weare but formerly Heneaton which belong'd heretofore to Austin de Baa from whom by right of inheritance it came to John Holand Ch. 24 E● who in a seal that I have seen bore a lion rampant gardant among flower de luces The government of this City is administer'd by 24. of whom u Th●s City was incorporated by K. John and made a County by K. Henry 8. one yearly is chosen Mayor who with four Bayliffs manages all publick affairs As for the position the old Oxford-Tables have defin'd it's longitude to be 19 degrees 11 minutes It 's latitude 50 degrees 40 minutes This City that I may not omit it has had it's Dukes For Richard 2. King of England of that name made John Holand Earl of Huntingdon and his brother by the mother's side first Duke of Exeter Dukes of Exeter Henry 4. depriv'd him of this honour and left him only the title of Earl of Huntingdon which being beheaded soon after 6 For conspiracy against the King he lost together with his life Some few years after Henry 5. supply'd this Dukedom with Thomas Beaufort Earl of Dorset descended from the house of Lancaster an accomplish'd Souldier He dying without issue John Holand the son of that John already mention'd as heir to Richard his brother that dy'd without issue and to his father was restor'd to all again having his Father's honours bestow'd upon him by the bounty of Henry 6. and left the same to his son Henry who whilst the Lancastrians stood flourish'd in great honour but after when the house of York came to the Crown his example might well shew us how unsafe it is to rely upon the smiles of fortune For this was that Henry Duke of Exeter who notwithstanding his marriage with the sister of Edward 4. was reduc'd to such misery Phil. Co●●naeus c●● 50. that he was seen to beg his bread ragg'd and bare-footed in the Low-countries And at last after Barnet-fight where he behav'd himself stoutly against Edward 4. he never was seen more till his body was cast upon the shore of Kent as if he had been shipwrack'd Long after this Exeter had it's Marquess namely Henry Courtny descended from Catherine the Daughter of Edward 4. rais'd to that honour by Henry 8 7 And design'd heir-apparent But to this Marquess as well as to the first Duke a great fortune did but raise great storms which as presently sunk him endeavouring a change of Government For among other things because with mony and counsel he had assisted Reginald Poole that was afterwards Cardinal and had left England to intriegue with the Emperor and the Pope against his King and Country who had then withdrawn from the Romish Communion he was arraign'd found guilty and beheaded with some others But now by the bounty of K. James Thomas Cecil Lord Burghley enjoys the title of Earl of Exeter Earl● of Exeter a man truly good and the worthy son of a most excellent father being the eldest son of William Cecil Baron Burghley Lord Treasurer of England whose wisdom has long supported the peace of this Kingdom nn From hence to the very mouth there is nothing of antiquity besides Exminster Exmin●●●● formerly Exanminster bequeath'd by King Alfred to his younger son and Pouderham Pouderham a castle built by Isabel de Ripariis now for a long time the seat of a very noble family the Courtnies Knights who being descended from the Earls of Devonshire and related to the best families are to this day flourishing and most worthy of such noble ancestors 8 Under Pouderham Ken a pretty brook enters into Ex which riseth near Holcombe where in a park is a fair place built by Sir Thomas Denis whose family fetcheth their first off-spring and surname from the Danes and were anciently written Le Dan Denis by which name the Cornish call'd the Danes Upon the very mouth on the other side as the name it self witnesses stands Exanmouth Exan●●● known for nothing but it's bare name and the fisher-hutts there More eastward Otterey Otterey that is a river of otters or water-dogs which we call Otters as the name it self implies runs into the sea it passes by Honniton Honni●●● well known to such as travel these parts 9 And was given by Isabel heir to the Earls of Devonshire to K. Edward the first when her issue fail'd p and gives it's name to some places Of which the most remarkable above Honniton is Mohuns-ottery which belong'd formerly to the Mohuns from whom it came by marriage to the Carews below Honniton near Holdcombe where lives the family of Le Denis Knights who take their original and name from the Danes S. Mary's Ottery so call'd from the w I● was suppress'd by a Parliament held at Leicester in the reign of Henry 5. College of S. Maries which John de Grandison Bishop of Exeter founded who had got the wealth of all the Clergy in his Diocese into his own hands For he had persuaded them to leave him all they had when they dy'd as intending to lay it all out in charitable uses in endowing Churches and building Hospitals and Colleges which they say he perform'd very piously From the mouth of this Ottery the shore goes on with many windings to the eastward by Budly q Sidmouth r and Seaton s formerly fine havens but now so choak'd with sand heap'd before the mouth of them by the flux and reflux of the sea that this benefit is almost quite lost Now that this Seaton is that Moridunum ●●idunum in Antoninus which is seated between Durnovaria and Isca if the book be not faulty and is lamely call'd Ridunum in the Peutegerian Table I should conjecture both from it's distance and the signification of the name For Moridunum is the same in British that Seaton is in English namely a town upon a hill by the sea Near this stands Wiscombe ●●omb memorable upon the account of William Baron Bonevill who liv'd there whose heir Cecil brought by marriage the titles of Lord Bonevill and Harrington with a brave estate in those parts ●his in County ●merset ●●ster to Thomas Grey Marquess of Dorset Under these the river Ax empties it self from a very small chanel 10 After it hath pass'd down by Ford where Adelize daughter to Baldewin of Okehampton founded an Abbey for
Derby the second to Alan de la Zouch the youngest to Comine Earl of Buchan in Scotland A long time after this Hugh le Despencer was honour'd with the title during life only by King Edward 2. who made him his most familiar friend and confident but he and his son had too late an experiment how fatal it often proves to be the favourites of a Prince for popular fury put both of them to an ignominious death A pretty while after this by the bounty of King Edward 4. Lewis de Bruges a Belgian Lord of Gruthuse and Prince of Steinhuse who had entertain'd this Prince in Flanders when he fled thither for refuge obtain'd this title with Arms not much differing from those of Roger de Quincy 6 In these words Azur a dix Mascles D'or en orm d'un Canton de nostre propre Armes d'Engleterre cest savour de Goul un Leopard passant d'or armeé d'azur which after the death of K. Edward he surrendred up to K. Henry 7. Within our own memory † Sir William William Powlett Lord Treasurer of England 7 Earl of Wiltshire and Lord St. John of Basing was honour'd by Edward 6. with a new title of Marquess of Winchester 8 A man prudently pliable to times raised not suddenly but by degrees in Court excessive in vast informous buildings temperate in all other things full of years for he lived 97 years and fruitful in his generation for he saw 103 issued from him by Elizabeth his wife daughter to Sir William Capel Knight And now his grandchild William enjoys the said honours which his Posterity now enjoys Winchester stands in the longitude of 22 and the latitude of 51 degrees according to the observation of later ages o From Winchester more Eastward the river Hamble Hamble out at a large mouth runs into the sea Bede calls it Homelea and says it runs through the country of the Jutes and falls into the Solente Solente for so he calls the chanel between Britain and the Isle of Wight into which at certain hours two opposite tides coming up with great violence from the Ocean and meeting here rais'd so great an admiration in our fore fathers that they reckon'd it one of the wonders of Britain Of which take Bede's own words Two tides which flow round the British Island out of the vast northern Ocean do daily meet together and encounter each other beyond the mouth of the river Homelea and when the waves have ended their conflict they retire into the sea from whence they came Into this chanel another small river empties it self which rising near Warnford runs between the forest of Waltham where is a m It was ruin'd in the late Civil Wars stately seat of the Bishops of Winchester and that of Bere 9 Whereby is Wickham a mansion of that ancient family of Vuedal Hol. It is come by marriage to the E. of Carlisle along by Tichfield Tichfield where was formerly a small Monastery built by Peter de Rupibus Bishop of Winchester 10 Where the marriage was solemnized between King Henry 6. and Margaret of Anjou and is now the chief n The Earl of Southampton dying without Issue male this estate came to Edward first Earl of Gainsburrow by marriage with Elizabeth daughter and coheiress of the said Earl whose son dying without issue-male it is now fallen to his two daughters who are at present Minors seat of the Wriotheslys Earls of Southampton Hence the shore turning and winding in the Island call'd Portesey makes a creek at the upper part of which flourish'd formerly Port-peris where tradition says Vespasian first arriv'd Our Ancestors gave it the new name of Portchester not from Porta a Saxon but from portus a harbour For Ptolemy from it's largeness calls it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 i.e. the spacious harbour and so a place in Africa was call'd Portus magnus Portus magnus as we learn from Pliny There is a large Castle still remaining which commands a free prospect of all the harbour below But when the sea retiring from this shore by degrees made the harbour less commodious they remov'd hence to Portsey an adjoyning Island which is about 14 miles round At high tide it is encompass'd with sea-water of which they make salt and is joyn'd to the continent by a bridge which had a small castle to defend it Athelfled wife of King Edgar gave this Island to New-Minster in Winchester and here at the entrance or mouth of the creek our Ancestors built a town which from thence they call'd Portsmouth Portsmouth This in time of war is populous but not so in time of peace and seems more inclin'd to the Arts of Mars and Neptune than of Mercury It has a Church of good ancient work and an Hospital which they call God's-house founded by Peter de Rupibus Bishop of Winchester It was fortify'd with a wall made of timber and well lined with mud with a high mount toward the north-east near the gate and with two sorts of free-stone at the entrance of the harbour which the inhabitants say were begun by K. Edward 4. and finish'd by Henry 7. who they add settled a garrison in this town But within our memory Queen Elizabeth at great expence has so well secured it by new Works that nothing seems now wanting to make it a most complete fortification And of the garrison some keep guard night and day at the Town-gates and others upon the top of the Church-tower where by ringing of a Bell they give notice what Horse and Foot advance toward the Town and by waving of Colours show from what quarter they come p Hence from Portes-bridge upon a little turning of the shore I saw Havant Havant a small market-town and near it Warblington formerly a beautiful seat of the Earls of Salisbury now of the family of Cottons Knights Before these there lie two Islands the larger is call'd Haling the less Thorney from the thorns and each of them has it's Parish-Church In several places along this shore out of sea-water that comes up they make salt which at first is of a sort of pale and green colour but by an art they have 't is afterwards boil'd into a pure white And 't is of this sea-salt not of the other which is made in our English pits British Salt that St. Ambrose is to be understood Let us look upon those things which are common Hexameron lib. 4. cap. 11. and withal full of kindness how water is turned into such firm and solid salt that 't is often cut with instruments of iron which is usual in the British salts that are crusted into a substance as hard and white as marble and are very wholsom At a greater distance from the sea live the Meanvari Meanvari whose Country along with the Isle of Wight Edilwalch King of the South-Saxons received from Wlpher King of the Mercians
to Winchester so is there another that passes westward thro' Pamber a thick and woody forest then by some places that are now uninhabited it runs near Litchfield that is the field of carcasses and so to the forest of Chute pleasant for its shady trees and the diversions of hunting where the huntsmen and foresters admire it 's pav'd rising ridge which is plainly visible tho' now and then broken off Now northward in the very limits almost of this County I saw Kings-cleare Kingscleare formerly a seat of the Saxon Kings now a well-frequented market town 11 By it Fremantle in a Park where King John much hunted Sidmanton Sidmanton the seat of the family of Kingsmils Knights and Burgh-cleare Bu gh-cleare that lies under a high hill on the top of which there is a military camp such as our ancestors call'd Burgh surrounded with a large trench and there being a commanding prospect from hence all the country round a Beacon is here fix'd which by fire gives notice to all neighbouring parts of the advance of an enemy These kind of watch-towers we call in our language Beacons from the old word Beacnian i.e. to becken they have been in use here in England for several ages sometimes made of a high pile of wood and sometimes of little barrels fill'd with pitch set on the top of a large pole in places that are most expos'd to view where some always keep watch in the night and formerly also the horsemen call'd Hobelers by our Ancestors were settled in several places to signifie the approach of the enemy by day s This County as well as all the rest we have thus far describ'd belong'd to the West-Saxon Kings and as Marianus tells us when Sigebert was depos'd for his tyrannical oppression of the subject he had this County assign'd him that he might not seem intirely depriv'd of his government But for his repeated crimes they afterward expell'd him out of those parts too and the miserable condition of this depos'd Prince was so far from moving any one's pity that he was forc'd to conceal himself in the wood Anderida and was there killed by a Swine-herd This County has had very few Earls besides those of Winchester which I have before spoken of At the coming in of the Normans one Bogo or Beavose a Saxon had this title who in the battel at Cardiff in Wales fought against the Normans He was a man of great military courage and conduct and while the Monks endeavour'd to extol him by false and legendary tales they have drown'd his valiant exploits in a sort of deep mist From this time we read of no other Earl of this County till the reign of Henry 8. who advanc'd William Fitz-Williams descended from the daughter of the Marquess of Montacute in his elder years to the honours of Earl of Southampton and Lord High Admiral of England But he soon after dying without issue King Edward 6. in the first year of his reign conferr'd that honour upon Thomas Wriotheosley Lord Chancellour of England and his grandson Henry by Henry his son now enjoys that title who in his younger years has arm'd the nobility of his birth with the ornaments of learning and military arts that in his riper age he may employ them in the service of his King and Country There are in this County 253 Parishes and 18 Market Towns ISLE of WIGHT TO this County of Southamton belongs an Island which lies southward in length opposite to it by the Romans formerly call'd Vecta Vectis and Victesis by Ptolemy 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 by the Britains Guith by the Saxons Wuitland and Wicþ-ea for they call'd an Island Ea we now call it the Isle of Wight and Whight 'T is separated from the Continent of Britain by so small a rapid channel which they formerly call'd Solent that it seems to have been joyn'd to it whence as Ninnius observes the Britains call'd it Guith which signifies a Separation t For the same reason the learned Julius Scaliger is of opinion that Sicily had it's name from the Latin word Seco because it was broken off and as it were dissected from Italy Whence with submission always to the Criticks I would read that passage in the sixth of Seneca's Natural Quaest. Ab Italia Sicilia resecta and not rejecta as 't is commonly read From the nearness of it's situation and the likeness of it's name we may guess this Vecta to be that Icta which as Diodorus Siculus has it at every tide seem'd to be an Island but at the time of the ebb the ground between this Island and the Continent was so dry that the old Britains us'd to carry their tinn over thither in Carts in order to transport it into France But I cannot think this to be Pliny's Mictis tho' Vecta come very near the name for in that Island there was white lead whereas in this there is not any one vein of metal that I know of This Island from east to west is like a Lentil or of an oval form in length 20 miles and in the middle where 't is broadest 12 miles over the sides lying north and south To say nothing of the abundance of fish in this sea the soil is very fruitful and answers the husbandman's expectation even so far as to yield him corn to export There is every where plenty of rabbets hares partridge and pheasants and it has besides a forest and two parks which are well stock'd with deer for the pleasures of hunting Through the middle of the Island runs a long ridge of hills where is plenty of pasture for sheep whose wool next to that of Lemster and Cotteswold is reckon'd the best and is in so much request with the Clothiers that the inhabitants make a great advantage of it In the northern part there is very good pasturage meadow-ground and wood the southern part is in a manner all a corn country enclos'd with ditches and hedges At each end the sea does so insinuate and thrust in it self from the north that it makes almost two Islands which indeed are call'd so by the inhabitants that on the west side Fresh-water Isle the other on the east Binbridge Isle Bede reckon'd in it in his time 1200 families now it has 36 towns villages and castles and as to its Ecclesiastical Government is under the jurisdiction of the Bishop of Winchester but as to it 's Civil under the County of South-hamton The inhabitants facetiously boast how much happier they are than other people since they never had either p 'T is strange why they should add Monks since S. Mary's in Caresbrooke particularly was a Cell of Black Monks belonging first to Lyra in Normandy afterwards to the Abbey of Montgrace in Yorkshire and then to the Cistercians of Sheen Besides this there were in the Island three Priories * Cu 〈…〉 tos 〈◊〉 c●●os Newpo●● Monks Lawyers or Foxes The places of greatest note are these Newport
houses eight were destroy'd for the Castle It was formerly walled about and as may be seen by the tract was a c The ditch of the town says Leland and the creast whereon the wall stood are yet manifestly perceiv'd and begin from the Castle going in compass a good mile or more mile in compass it hath a castle seated upon the river very large and so well fortify'd in former times that the hopes of it's being impregnable hath made some persons over-resolute For when the flames of Civil War had as it were set all England on fire we read that King Stephen ever now and then attempted it by siege but still in vain We much wonder'd at it's greatness and magnificence when we were boys and retir'd thither from Oxford for it is now a retiring place for the Students of Christ-Church at Oxford it being double wall'd and surrounded with d Leland says it has 3 dikes large and deep and well water'd two ditches In the middle stands a tower rais'd upon a very high mount in the steep ascent whereof which you climb by stairs I saw a well of an exceeding depth The Inhabitants believe it was built by the Danes but I should rather judge that something was here erected by the Romans and afterwards demolish'd by the Saxons and Danes when Sueno the Dane harrass'd the Country up and down in these parts At length it recover'd it self under William 1. as plainly appears by Domesday Book where it makes mention of eight ‖ Haga● Houses being pull'd down for the Castle as I observ'd but now Yet William Gemeticensis takes no notice of this Castle when he writes that William the Norman after Harold's defeat immediately led his army to this city for so he terms it and passing the Thames at the ford encamp'd here before he march'd to London Lords of Wallingford At which time Wigod an Englishman was Lord of Wallingford who had one only daughter given in marriage to Robert D'Oily by whom he had Maud his sole heir married first to Miles Crispin and after his death by the favour of K. Henry 1. to Brient † Fillo Comitis Fitz-Count and he being bred a soldier and taking part with Maud the Empress stoutly defended the Castle against King Stephen who had rais'd a Fort over against it at Craumesh till the peace so much wish'd for by England in general was concluded in this place and that terrible quarrel between King Stephen and K. Henry 2. was ended And then the love of God did so prevail upon Brient and his wife that quitting the transitory vanities of this world they wholly devoted themselves to Christ by which means this Honour of Wallingford fell to the Crown Which appears by these words taken out of an old Inquisition in the Exchequer To his well beloved Lords Of the Honour of Wallingford in T●●● de N●●● 〈◊〉 the Exchequer our Lord the King's Justices and the Barons of the Exchequer the Constable of Wallingford Greeting Know ye that I have made diligent Inquisition by the Knights of my Bailywick in pursuance of my Lord the King's precept directed to me by the Sheriff and this is the summe of the inquisition thus taken Wigod of Wallingford held the honour of Wallingford in K. Harold's time and afterwards in the reign of K. William 1. and had by his Wife a certain Daughter whom he gave in marriage to Robert D'Oily This Robert had by her a Daughter named Maud which was his heir Miles Crispin espous'd her and had with her the aforesaid honour of Wallingford After Miles ' s decease our Lord K. Henry 1. bestow'd the aforesaid Maud upon Brient Fitz-Count c. Yet afterwards in the reign of Henry 3. it belong'd to the Earls of Chester and then to Richard King of the Romans and Earl of Cornwall who repaired it and to his son Edmond who founded a Collegiate Chapel within the inner Court but he dying issueless it fell again to the Crown and was annexed to the Dukedom of Cornwall since when it hath fallen much to decay More especially about the time when that plague and mortality which follow'd the conjunction of Saturn and Mars in Capricorn A terrible ●●ague reign'd so hotly through all Europe in the year of our Lord 1343. Then this Wallingford by that great mortality was so exhausted that whereas before it was very well inhabited and had 12 Churches in it now it can shew but one or two But the inhabitants rather lay the cause of this their town's decay upon the bridges built at Abingdon and Dorchester e Just so Wilton the once chief town of Wiltshire began to decay when the road was turn'd through Salisbury and the bridge was built there by which means the High-road is turn'd from thence g From hence Southward the Thames gently glides between very fruitful fields on both sides of it by Moulesford Moulesford which K. Henry 1. gave to Girald Fitz-Walter from whom the noble Family of the Carews are descended A family that hath receiv'd the addition of much honour by it's matches with the noble families of Mohun and Dinham and others in Ireland as well as England Not far from hence is Aldworth where there are certain tombs and statues upon them larger than ordinary much wonder'd at by the common people as if they were the pourtraictures of Giants when indeed they are only those of certain Knights of the family of De la Beche which had a Castle here and is suppos'd to have been extinct for want of male-issue in the reign of Edward 3. And now at length the Thames meets with the Kenet The river ●enet which as I said before watering the south-side of this County at it's first entry after it has left Wiltshire runs beneath Hungerford ●unger●●rd call'd in ancient times Ingleford Charnam-street a mean town and seated in a moist place which yet gives both name and title to the honourable family of the Barons of Hungerford first advanc'd to it's greatness by f He was son of that Sir Thomas Hungerford who was Speaker to the House of Commons 51 Edw. 3. which was the first Parliament wherein that House had a Speaker Walter Hungerford who was Steward of the King's Houshold under King Henry 5. and had conferr'd upon by that Prince's bounty in consideration of his eminent services in the wars the Castle and Barony of Homet in Normandy to hold to him and his heirs males by homage and service to find the King and his heirs at the Castle of Roan one Lance with a Fox's tail hanging to it ●●ima pars ●pl Pa●● Nor●n 6 H. 5. which pleasant tenure I thought not amiss to insert here among serious matters The same Walter in the reign of Henry 6. was Lord High Treasurer of England ●rons ●ngerford and created Baron Hungerford and what by his prudent management and his matching with Catherine Peverell descended from the
of his being seized of the Castle Honour and Lordships of Arundel in his own demesn as of Fee in regard of this his possession of the same Castle Honour and Lordships and without any other consideration or creation to be an Earl was Earl of Arundel Parl. 11. H. 6. and the Name State and Honour of the Earl of Arundel c. peaceably enjoy'd as appears by a definitive Judgment in Parliament in favour of John Fitz-Alan challenging the Castle and Title of Arundel 5 By virtue of an entail against John Mowbray Duke of Norfolk the right heir by his mother in the nearest degree From whence we gather That the Name State and Dignity of an Earl was annex'd to the Castle Honour and Lordship of Arundel as may be seen in the Parliament-Rolls An. 27 Hen. 6. out of which I have copy'd these notes word for word Of these Fitz-Alans 6 Edmund second Earl son to Richard marry'd the heir of the Earl of Surrey and was beheaded through the malicious fury of Q. Isabel not lawfully convicted for that he oppos'd himself in King Edw. the 2d's behalf against her wicked practices His son Richard petition'd in Parliament to be restor'd to blood lands and goods for that his father was put to death not try'd by his Peers according to the Law and Great Charter of England Nevertheless whereas the Attainder of him was confirm'd by Parliament he was forc'd to amend his Petition and upon the amendment thereof he was restor'd by the King 's meer grace Richard his son as his grandfather died for his Sovereign 4 Edw. 3. lost his life for banding against his Sovereign K. Richard 2. But Thomas his son more honourably ended his life serving King Henry 5. valorously in France and leaving his sisters his heirs general Sir John of Arundel Lord Maltravers his next Cousin and Heir Male obtain'd of K. Henr. 6. the Earldom of Arundel as we even now declared See before the Earls of Surrey and also was by the said King for his good service created Duke of Touraine Of the succeeding Earls I find nothing memorable the 11th liv'd in our time and dying without issue male was succeeded by Philip Howard his grandson by his daughter who not being able to digest wrongs and hard measure put upon him by the cunning tricks of some invidious persons fell into the snare they had laid for him and being brought into the utmost danger of his life dy'd But his son Thomas a most honourable young Gentleman ennobled with a fervent desire and pursuit after virtue and glory worthy his great birth and of an affable obliging temper was restor'd by King James and had all his father's honours return'd him by Act of Parliament Except the Castle and it's Earls Arundel hath nothing memorable for the College that there flourish'd and had the Earls for it's founders it's revenues being alienated now falls to decay Nevertheless there are some monuments of the Earls in the Church amongst the rest one of Alabaster very fair and noble in which in the middle of the Quire lie Earl Thomas and Beatrix his Wife 2d Daughter of John King of Portugal Neither must I pass by this Inscription very beautifully gilt set up here to the honour of Henry Fitz-Alan the last Earl of this Line since some possibly may be pleas'd with it VIRTUTI ET HONORI SACRUM MAGNANIMUS HEROS CUJUS HIC CERNITUR EFFIGIES CUJUSQUE HIC SUBTER SITA SUNT OSSA HUJUS TERRITORII COMES FUIT SUI GENERIS AB ALANI FILIO COGNOMINATUS A MALATRAVERSO CLUNENSI ET OSWALDESTRENSI HONORIBUS EXIMIIS DOMINUS INSUPER AC BARO NUNCUPATUS GARTERIANI ORDINIS EQUESTRIS SANE NOBILISSIMI SODALIS DUM VIXIT ANTIQUISSIMUS ARUNDELIAE COMITIS GUILIELMI FILIUS UNICUS ET SUCCESSOR OMNIUMQUE VIRTUTUM PARTICEPS QUI HENRICO VIII EDWARDO VI. MARIAE ET ELIZABETHAE ANGLIAE REGIBUS A SECRETIS CONSILIIS VILLAE QUOQUE CALESIAE PRAEFECTURAM GESSIT ET CUM HENRICUS REX BOLONIAM IN MORINIS OBSIDIONE CINXERAT EXERCITUS SUI MARESCALLUS PRIMARIUS DEINDE REGIS FUIT CAMERARIUS EJUSQUE FILIO EDWARDO DUM CORONARETUR MARESCALLI REGNI OFFICIUM GEREBAT EIQUE SICUT ANTEA PATRI CAMERARIUS FACTUS REGNANTE VERO MARIA REGINA CORONATIONIS SOLENNI TEMPORE SUMMUS CONSTITUITUR CONSTABULARIUS DOMUSQUE REGIAE POSTMODUM PRAEFECTUS AC CONSILII PRAESES SICUT ET ELIZABETHAE REGINAE CUJUS SIMILITER HOSPITII SENESCALLUS FUIT ITA VIR ISTE GENERE CLARUS PUBLICIS BENE FUNCTIS MAGISTRATIBUS CLARIOR DOMI AC FORIS CLARISSIMUS HONORE FLORENS LABORE FRACTUS AETATE CONFECTUS POSTQUAM AETATIS SUAE ANNUM LXVIII ATTIGISSET LONDINI XXV DIE FEBRUARII ANNO NOSTRAE SALUTIS A CHRISTO MDLXXIX PIE ET SUAVITER IN DOMINO OBDORMIVIT JOANNES LUMLEY BARO DE LUMLEY GENER PIENTISSIMUS SUPREMAE VOLUNTATIS SUAE VINDEX SOCERO SUAVISSIMO ET PATRONO OPTIMO MAGNIFICENTISSIME FUNERATO NON MEMORIAE QUAM IMMORTALEM SIBI MULTIFARIIS VIRTUTIBUS COMPARAVIT SED CORPORIS MORTALIS ERGO IN SPEM FELICIS RESURRECTIONIS RECONDITI HANC ILLI EX PROPRIIS ARMATURIS STATUAM EQUESTREM PRO MUNERE EXTREMO UBERIBUS CUM LACHRYMIS DEVOTISSIME CONSECRAVIT That is Sacred to Virtue and Honour The Valiant Heroe whose Effigies you here see and whose Bones are buried underneath was Earl of these parts he had his Sirname by being the son of Alan and moreover took the honourable titles of Lord and Baron from Maltravers Clun and Oswaldestre he was Knight of the Garter and liv'd to be the Senior of that Noble Order only Son to William Earl of Arundel and heir both of his Estate and Virtues He was Privy Counsellor to Henry 8. Edward 6. Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth Kings and Queens of England Governour of Calais and when Bologne a town of the old Morini was besieg'd by that King Henry was Marshal of the Army He was afterwards Lord Chamberlain to the said King and at the Coronation of his son Edward exercis'd the Office of Marshal of England to which King he was Lord Chamberlain as he had been to his Father Upon Queen Mary's coming to the Crown he was made High-Constable of England for the Coronation afterwards Steward of her Houshold and President of the Council which honour he had under Queen Elizabeth to whom he was likewise Steward of the Houshold Thus this person noble by birth by the honourable discharge of Offices more noble and most of all so by his great Exploits at home and abroad with his honour untainted his body broken and worn out with age in the 68. year of his life dy'd in the Lord devoutly and comfortably at London on the 25. of February in the year of our Lord 1579. John Lumley Baron of Lumley his most dutiful and disconsolate son in Law and Executor with the utmost respect put up this Statue with his own Armour after he had been buried in great pomp for the kindest of Fathers-in-Law and the best of Patrons as the
Burrill is single-trench'd and seems to have been ruin'd before fully finish'd Within the bank it contains 20 acres of arable land but on the west and south sides there is no bank nor trench which probably was occasion'd by the steep Meres that would not give leave to draw them The New-merch or de novo mercatu mention'd by our Author came in with the Conquerour but had only two daughters Hawys and Isabel as Sir William Dugdale in his Baronage has told us Mr. Camden's mistake in making three seems occasion'd by the elder being marry'd first to John Botereaux and afterwards to Nicholas de Moels which two he says marry'd two of the daughters This Deorham from Ralph Russel descended to Sir Gilbert Dennys who marry'd the heiress of that family thence to the Winters whose heiress marry'd to William Blathwayt Esq the present possessor he hath built here a stately new fabrick in the room of the old one Not far from hence lyeth Great Badminton Great B●minton a seat belonging to his Grace Henry Duke of Beaufort which having been made his Country-residence since the demolishment of Rayland Castle is so adorn'd with stately additions to the house large parks neat and spacious gardens variety of fountains walks avenues Paddocks and other contrivances for recreation and pleasure as to make it justly esteem'd one of the most complete seats in the kingdom all which is owing to the care judgment and expence of the present Duke But here we must not omit Chipping-Sodbury Chippin●-Sodbury a market-town below the hills which hath a Free-school and was govern'd by a Bailiff but about 1681. 't was made a Corporation with a Mayor Aldermen and Burgesses which was suppressed by the Proclamation of K. James 1688. Next is Wotton-under-edge Wotton-under-e● famous for Cloathing where is a noble Free-school erected by Catherine relict of Thomas Lord Berkley in the year 1385. an Alms-house by Hugh Perry Alderman of London in 1632. which cost 1000 l. and the like sum was given by Sir Jonathan Daws late Sheriff of London for the relief of the poor w In this bottom lyeth Dursly Durs●y a market-town famous for Cloathing Kingeswood Abbey which our Author mentions is by all writers plac'd in Glocestershire whereas the whole Parish is really in the County of Wilts under the power of their Sheriffs and Justices but within the Diocese of Glocester It was founded by William Berkley 1139. thence removed to Tetbury and at last fix'd here till the Dissolution x Above the hills is Beverston Beverston Castle which formerly belong'd to the Berkleys but is now in the possession of Sir William Hicks Baronet Beyond which lyeth Tetbury where is a great market for yarn and a Free-school and Alms-house by the bounty of Sir William Romney a native of the place It belong'd to the Berkleys but they sold their right to the inhabitants who now enjoy the tolls and profits of the markets and fairs y In Coteswold near Norlich or North-Leach at a village call'd Farmington Aubr MS. is an exceeding large Roman camp nam'd Norbury Norbury 850 paces long and 473 broad The Works are but single and not very high 't is now a corn-field and not far from it westward there is a barrow In the same Would is Painswick-Parish about 5 miles from Glocester † wherein is Kimsbury-Castle Kimsbury-Castle exceeding high Ibid. on the north-side it has a vast precipice and on the other sides stupendous Works From hence is a most lovely prospect over the Vale to Malvern-hills to Shropshire Worcestershire Herefordshire and Monmouthshire z In the north part of the County is Camden ●amden a market-town famous for Stockings It gave the title of Viscount to Sir Baptist Hicks 4 Car. 1. who was a great benefactor to this place by erecting an Alms-house rebuilding the market-place and annexing the Impropriation of Winfryth in Dorsetshire for the augmentation of the Vicaridge He built here a curious house near the Church which was burnt in the late Civil Wars lest it should be a garrison for the Parliament and lyes bury'd in the south I le of the Church which is adorn'd with such noble monuments of marble as equal if not exceed most in England He gave in his life-time ten thousand pounds to charitable uses as his Epitaph mentions and leaving only two daughters the honour descended to my Lord Noel by marrying the eldest of them whose posterity are now Earls of Gainsburrow The Weston mention'd by our Author near this place is not that where Ralph Sheldon built his house for he had no land there but Weston in the parish of Long-Compton in Warwickshire of which place he was then Lord as his posterity are to this day Beyond Camden on a rising ground is Ebburton where the Lord Chancellour Fortescue lies buried his monument was not erected till the year 1677. aa Next is Hales-Abbey which was begun in the year 1246. and when 't was dedicated the King Queen and Court were all present at the solemnity There are now but small remains of it only a neat cloyster the rest being turn'd into a fair house now in the possession of William Lord Tracy of Toddington two miles off where he has a stately house the seat of his Ancestors Alexander de Hales mention'd by our Author lies bury'd in the Cordeliers Church in Paris and if his Epitaph says true dy'd 1245. a year before this Abbey was begun so that I do not see how he could have his education here bb Not far from hence is Winchcomb W●nchcomb where are scarce any ruins visible either of the Abbey or of that which was call'd Ivy-Castle or of St. Nicholas Church that stood in the east part of the town The inhabitants made planting of Tobacco their chief business which turn'd to good account till restrain'd by the 12 Car. 2. they decay'd by little and little and are now generally poor cc A little lower lies Brimpsfield Brimpsfield which was formerly a place of some repute for we find that Lionel Duke of Clarence had a Charter for a weekly market here on Tuesdays and a Fair on the Eve of Corpus Christi here was also a Priory and a Castle but both are vanish'd John Gifford Lord of this place founded Glocester-hall in Oxon. for the Monks of Glocester dd On the edge of Oxfordshire is Stow Stow. a great market where as the common observation goes they have but one element viz. Air there being neither wood common field nor water belonging to the town It hath an Alms-house a Free school and a multitude of poor Here in the year 1645. March 21. the forces of King Charles 1. being over-power'd were routed by the Parliament-Army ee Next is North leach Northleach a market-town with a neat Church Here is a good Grammar-school founded by Hugh Westwood Esq who as 't is commonly reported came afterwards to be low in the world and desiring
without issue was succeeded by his brother Roger whose son Richard marry'd Amicia daughter and coheir of William Earl of Glocester and in right of her his posterity were Earls of Glocester whom you may find in their proper place But at last upon default of heir-male Leonel third son of Edw. 3. who had marry'd Elizabeth daughter and sole heir of William de Burgo Earl of Ulster by Elizabeth Clare was honour'd by his father with the new title of Duke of Clarence But he having only a daughter call'd Philippa wife of Edmund Mortimer Earl of March King Henry 4. created his younger son Thomas Duke of Clarence Dukes of Clarence who was Governour of Normandy 7 As also Lord High Steward of England and Earl of Albemarle and in the assaults of the Scots and French was slain in Anjou leaving no issue behind him A considerable time after Edward 4. conferr'd this honour upon George his brother whom after bitter quarrels and a most inveterate hatred between them he had receiv'd into favour yet for all that he at length dispatch'd him in prison ordering him to be drown'd as the report commonly goes † In dolio vini Cretici in a butt of Malmesey And thus 't is planted in the nature of man to hate those they fear and those with whom they have had quarrels for life even tho' they be brethren e From Clare the Stour runs by Long-Melford a beautiful Hospital lately built by that excellent person Sir William Cordall Knight Master of the Rolls to Sudbury Sudbury i.e. the Southern burrough which it almost encompasses The common opinion is e For Ecclesiastical Jurisdiction it has still something of preheminence the County being divided into the two Archdeaconries of Suffolk and of Sudbury that this was once the chief town of the County and that it had the name given it with respect to Norwich i.e. the northern village And indeed at this day it has no reason to give place to it's neighbours For 't is populous and thrives exceedingly by the Cloth-trade it 's chief Magistrate also is a Mayor who is annually chosen out of the seven Aldermen Not far from hence is Edwardeston Edwardeston a place of no great repute at present but had formerly Lords and inhabitants of great honour call'd de Monte Canisio and commonly Mont-chensy Barons de Montchensy Of which family Guarin marry'd the daughter and co-heir of that most powerful Earl of Pembroke William Marshal and had by her a daughter Joanna who brought to her husband William de Valentia of the family of Lusigny in France Minor Hist Matth. Par. the title of Earl of Pembroke That Guarin Mont-chensy as he had great honours so likewise had he a very plentiful fortune insomuch that in those times he was call'd the Crassus of England his Will amounting to no less than two hundred thousand marks f 8 No small wealth as the standard was then From a younger brother or cadet of this house of Montchensie issu'd by an heir-general the f●●●ly of the Waldgraves who having long flourisht in Knightly degree at Smaltbridge nearer to Stour as another family of great account in elder age 〈◊〉 Buers which was thereof sirnamed A few miles from hence the Stour is encreas'd by the little river Breton which within a small compass washes two towns of Antiquity At the head of it we see Bretenham a little inconsiderable town without almost any appearance of a City and yet that it is the Combretonium Combretonium mention'd by Antoninus in those parts is evident both from the affinity and signification of the name For as Bretenham Bretenham in English implies a town or mansion upon the Breton so does Combretonium in Welsh a valley or low place upon the Breton But this place in the Peutegerian Tables is falsly call'd Comvetronum and Ad Covecin A little way from hence to the east is seen Nettlested 9 Whence was Sir Thomas Wentworth whom King Henry 8. honour'd with the title of Baron Wentworth from whence are the Wentworths Ba●ons Wentworth whom King Henry the eighth honour'd with the dignity of Barons and neighbour to it is Offton i.e. the town of Offa King of the Mercians where upon a chalky hill there lye the ruins of an old Castle which they tell you was built by King Offa after he had villanously cut off Ethelbert King of the East-Angles and seiz'd upon his kingdom 10 But to return to the river Breton on the banks of another brook that is joyn'd thereto stands Lancham a ●air market-town and near it the manour of Burnt-Elleie to which King Henry 3. granted a market at the request of Sir Henry Shelton Lord thereof whose p●sterity flourisht here for a long time Below this is Hadley in Saxon headlege famous at this day for making of woollen Cloaths but mention'd by our ancient Historians upon the account of Guthrum or Gormo the Dane's Guthrum or Gormo the Dane being buried here For when Alfred had brought him to such terms as to make him embrace Christianity and be baptiz'd he assign'd him this tract of the East-Angles that he might to use the words of my g Selden has observ'd it to be taken out of Malmesbury Not. MS. Author by a due Allegiance to the King protect those Countries he had before over-run with ravage and plunder From hence the Breton runs 11 Runs swiftly by Higham whence the family of Higham takes its name to Stour c. into the Stour whose united streams flowing not far from Bentley Bentley where the Talmaches a famous and ancient family have a long time flourisht within a few miles run near Arwerton Arwerton formerly the seat of the famous family of the Bacons 12 Who held this manour of Brome by conducting all the Footmen of Suffolk and Norfolk from St. Edmund's-dike in the wars of Wales now of the Parkers who by the father's side are descended from the Barons Morley and by the mother from the Calthrops a very eminent family Then they flow into the Ocean and the river Orwell or Gipping joyning them just at the mouth discharges it self along with them This rises about the very middle of the County out of two Springs one near Wulpett Wulpett the other at a little village call'd Gipping Wulpett is a Market-town and signifies in Latin Luporum fossa i.e. a den of Wolves if we believe Neubrigensis who has patcht up as formal a story about this place as is the * Vera narratio True Narrative of Lucian Namely how two little green boys † Ex Satyrorum genere born of Satyrs after a long tedious wandering through subterraneous Caverns from another world i.e. the Antipodes and the Land of St. Martin came up here If you would have more particulars of the story I refer you to the Author himself ‖ Omnibus rihonibus ridenda pr●pinabit who
and this serves us to make Beer of The inhabitants drive a gainful trade with this into the neighbouring Counties The north and farther part by reason of the floods fens and the many islands made by rive●s is call'd the Isle of Ely abounds with rich pastures exceeding fresh and pleasant but however somewhat hollow and spungy by reason of the waters that undermine it which sometimes overflow and drown the greatest part of it a One of the Roman high-ways call'd Erming-streat in the Ely-book runs along the west-side of the lower part and carries us directly to Huntingdon by Royston Royston a town on the borders of this County See H●rtfordsh●re of some note but of no antiquity b 'T is partly in Hartfordshire and partly in this County which we spoke of before and likewise through Caxton Caxton formerly the Baronage of Stephen de Eschallers from whose posterity it descended to the Frevills in the time of Henry 3. and from them by the Burgoins to the Jermins Nor is Gamlinghay far off the habitation formerly of the Avenells whose whole estate fell by marriage to that ancient family of St. George a family that since Henry 1. has produc'd many worthy Knights who liv'd at Hatley from them call'd Hatley St. George Hatley St. George More westward there is a little river which runs through the middle of this part from South to North to mix with the Ouse beginning at Ashwell and passing with many windings by Shengay Shengay where are the most pleasant meadows of the County formerly a † A C●mmande●y Praeceptory of the Knights Templars given by Sibyl daughter of Roger Mont-gomery Earl of Shrewsbury and wife of J. de Raines in the year 1130. a little way off Burne-castle Burne which was anciently the Barony of one Picot Sheriff of this County Barons of Burne and also of the Peverills Barnwell-Hist by one of whose daughters the Inheritance and Honours sell to Gilbert Peche the last of which family after he had advanc'd his second wife's children The King heir to private persons made King Edward the first his heir In those days the English Nobility brought up the ancient Roman custom in the time of their Emperors of making their Princes heirs whenever they were out of favour This Castle was burnt down in the Barons war in Henry the third's time set on fire by one Ribald de Insula or L'Isle and at the same time Walter of Cottenham a great man was hang'd for rebellion It 's uncertain how former writers have call'd this river some by the name of Grant but others Cam which to me seems most probable because 't is so crooked for the Brittish word Cam signifies as much whence a crooked river in Cornwal is call'd Camel and also because old Camboritum Camboritum a town mention'd by Antoninus in his third Journey in Britain stood upon it as I am almost perswaded both by its distance and name and also the great number of Roman coins found nigh the bridge For Camboritum signifies a ford over Cam Rith its signification in British and Gaulish or a crooked ford the word rith in the British language signifying a ford I mention this that the French may better understand the meaning of Augustoritum Darioritum Rithomagus and the like in their own Country However the Saxons had rather use Grant-ceaster Grantcester and Gront-ceaster for our Camboritum and though it retains this name still I can't find the derivation of it To derive it from the Saxon word * Gronna Hovd fol. 251. Flor. Wigorniens fol. 402. Gron The meaning of Gron. a fenny place might be a mistake and yet Asserius more than once has call'd some fenny grounds in Somersetshire Gronnas paludosissimas which is a mixture of Saxon and Latin and 't is well known that a city in West-Friezland in the like situation is call'd Groneingen But let others hunt after the Etymology of it About the year 700 this was saith Bede a little desolate city when he tell us that just by its walls was found a little trough or coffin of white marble delicately wrought with a lid of the same most exactly fitted for it Now 't is a small village part whereof Henry Lacy Earl of Lincoln gave to his bastard-son Henry upon condition that all his posterity which have been long since extinct should take no other name but Henry King Henry the sixth of the House of Lancaster and heir to Lacie's estate settled the other part upon his own College call'd King 's in Cambridge Cambridge which town is either a part or a sprig of the ancient Camboritum 't is so nigh it in name and situation Nor am I apt to believe that Cam was ever turn'd out of Grant for this would look like a change too forc'd and strain'd where all the letters are lost but one I should rather think that the common people had kept to the old name of Camboritum or the river Cam though indeed writers more commonly use the Saxon word c It is call'd in Saxon Grantanbryege Grantabriege and Grantebrige Grantbridge This City the other University the other Eye and Stay of the Kingdom this excellent Magazine of all good Literature and Religion stands on the river Cam which after it has most pleasantly sprinkl'd its west side with several little Isles turns to the east divides it into two parts so that 't is joyn'd by a bridge which hath given it that new name of Cambridge Beyond the bridge there is a large old castle which may now seem to have come to its last thred and Magdalen-College On this side the bridge where lyes the far greatest part of the town there 's a pleasant prospect of the form of the Streets of the number of Churches and of sixteen fair Colleges the Muses sacred Mansions wherein great numbers of worthy learned men are maintain'd and where the Studies of Arts and Languages so mightily flourish that they may deservedly be term'd the very fountains of all Literature Religion and Learning which most sweetly scatter their wholesom streams through all the Gardens both of Church and State Nor is there any thing wanting that is requir'd in a most flourishing University were not the Air a little too gross by reason of its fenny situation But perhaps the first founders of it in this place were of Plato's opinion who being of a strong constitution himself made choice of the Academy for his studies a very unwholesom place in Attica the better to keep under the stubborness of the body that it might not too much clog the brain However our Ancestors men of singular wisdom have dedicated this place to their learned studies not without divine direction and have adorn'd it with many noble buildings That we may not seem guilty of the worst sort of ingratitude to these eminent Patrons of Learning or to use Eumenius's words those Parents of
Morden CORITANI WE are now to visit the Coritani a People living inward from the Iceni and taking up a very large Tract of Ground in the Mediterranean parts of this Isle as far as the German Ocean viz. the Counties now commonly call'd Northamptonshire Leicestershire Rutlandshire Lincolnshire Nottinghamshire and Derbyshire I shall forbear medling with the Etymology of their name for fear I should pretend to know what 's a downright mystery For notwithstanding they are a People scattered far and wide which the Britains express by Gur-tani yet should I assert that these Coritani took their name from thence would you not think this mere trifling Let those who are better skill'd in that sort of Learning more safely give their conjectures whilst I according to my design survey each of the Counties I now mentioned in their respective order NORTHAMPTONSHIRE THE County of Northampton in Saxon Norþ-afendon-scyre and a See the Additions to Hamshire under the title Southampton Northantonshire commonly Northamptonshire is situate in the very middle and heart as it were of England and from the South-west-side where it is broadest contracting it self by degrees runs out in length to the North-east On the East lye the Counties of Bedford and Huntingdon on the South those of Buckingham and Oxford Westward Warwick and Northward those of Leicester Rutland and Lincoln separated by the rivers Avon the less and the Welland Watling-street one of the Roman high-ways runs along the East-side from the Ouse to Dowbridge the Nen call'd also by Historians Aufona gently cuts through the middle and east parts It is a Champain Country very populous and every where adorn'd with Noblemen and Gentlemen's houses very full of Towns and Churches insomuch that in some places there are 20 in others 30 Spires or Steeples more or less in view at a time It s soil both for tillage and pasturage exceeding fertile but not well stock'd with wood unless at the hither and further end But every where as in other Provinces of England full and as it were over-run with sheep Sh●ep which as that Hythodaeus said us'd to be so gentle ●i● T●● M. ●s U●●●● and fed with so little but now as 't is reported begin to be so ravenous and wild that they devour men waste and depopulate fields houses and towns a On the South border where the river Ouse so often mention'd has its spring on a gently rising ground full of bubbling fountains stands Brackley ●●●●kl●y that is a place full of brake or fern anciently a famous staple for Wooll but which now only boasts how great and wealthy it once was by its ruins and by a Mayor it retains for its chief Magistrate The Zouches Lords of the place founded a College there from them it came successively by right of marriage to the Hollands and the Lovels But upon the attainder of Lovel in King Henry the seventh's time the Stanleys by the King's grant became Lords of it But the College ruinous now belongs to Magdalen College in Oxford who keep it for a retiring place Nor was this town a little famous in former ages for the memory of Rumbald a young infant who as we read in his life was a King's son and as soon as he was born after he had spoken I know not what holy words had profess'd himself a Christian and had been immediately baptiz'd expir'd 1 And being canoniz'd by the people amongst the Saints had his commemoration kept both here and at Buckingham From hence northward after I had gone six miles through woods and groves first I saw Astwell where T. Billing formerly Lord Chief Justice of the King's Bench dwelt in great repute from whom it descended hereditarily to the ancient family of the Lovels Then Wedon and Wapiham which the family of the Pinkneys held by Barony The Barony 〈◊〉 ●he Pink●●ys till such time as H. de Pinkney made King Edward the first his heir Who being an excellent Prince many ill men made him their heirs whereas according to Tacitus a good father makes no Prince but a bad one his heir From hence I presently came to Tripontium Tripontium which Antonine takes notice of but not in its right place For I am of opinion this was that very place we now call Torcester nor are there good Arguments wanting to prove this If Trimontium in Thrace had that name of three Hills Triturrita in Tuscany of three Towers and Tripolis of three Cities there is no room to doubt but that this Tripontium of ours was so nam'd of three Bridges And here at this Torcester the Roman Praetorian or Military-way which very plainly appears in several places between this and Stony-Stratford is cut in two by three principal chanels that the little river divides it self into which as well anciently as now must have had of necessity three several Bridges over them Now if you ask a Britain how he calls Three Bridges in British he will presently answer you Tair ponte and certain persons of good credit from whom I receiv'd some Roman coins here positively affirm that Torcester is its true name Some will have the River's name Toue that runs by it and think it was so call'd of Towers Nevertheless Marianus calls it Touecester if the Book be not faulty in whom we read that this town was so fortified in the year of our Lord 917. that the Danes were by no means able to take it and that King Edward the Elder afterwards encompass'd it with a Stone-wall yet with all my search I could find no signs of any such Wall Only there is a Mount still remaining cast up in ancient times they call it Berihill now taken up in private Gardens and planted on every side with Cherry Trees And time it self has so ruin'd the town that it is beholden to the situation the name and the ancient Coins ever now and then found here for its reputation of antiquity For it has nothing worth taking notice of but one only Church large and fair in which D. Sponte formerly Rector thereof by report a good Benefactor both to Church and Town lies enterr'd in a Tomb of excellent workmanship But at Elton hard by you have a prospect of a fine house belonging to the family of the Farmers Knights The river that waters Torcester in its course from hence towards the Ouse runs by Grafton Grafton now an Honour of the King 's but formerly a seat of the family of Widdevil Widdevil or Wod●il out of which came Richard a person much renowned for his virtue and valour who was fined 1000 l. of our money by King Henry the sixth for marrying Jaquet Dowager of John Duke of Bedford and daughter of Peter of Luxenburgh Earl of St. Paul without leave of the King Yet afterwards he advanced the same person to the Honour of Baron Widdevil of Rivers Parl. 27 H. 6. With Elizabeth this Lord's daughter King Edward the fourth privately
as unfortunate as could be Catharine of Spain and Mary Queen of Scots lye interr'd finding rest here from all their miseries g 〈◊〉 Penns Beneath Peterborow the Nen by this time remov'd about five and forty miles from its Spring-head and carrying along with it in its chanel all the little streams and land-floods occasion'd by rain divides it self into several branches And by this means finding no certain course for its stream diffuses its waters all abroad the plain Country and overflows it far and near in the winter nay and sometimes the greater part of the year so that it seems to be a vast level Ocean with here and there an Island bearing up and appearing above the surface of the waters The cause the neighbouring people alledge to be this that of the three chanels in which such a vast deal of waters was us'd to be convey'd the first that went to the Ocean by Thorney Abby and thence aside by Clowscross and Crow-land the second also by the cut made by Morton Bishop of Ely call'd the New Leame and then by Wisbich have a long time been neglected and upon this account that the third which bends its course down by Horsey-bridge Wittles-mere Ramsey-mere and Salters-load is not able to receive so much water so that it breaks out with more violence upon the adjoyning Flats And the Country complains of the injury done them as well by those who have neglected the keeping open and clearing the chanels as by others that have diverted the water to their private uses and as the Reatines in Tacitus they say That Nature her self hath well provided for man's use in giving all rivers their issues and courses and their endings as well as their springs But of this enough if not too much In this place the County is narrowest for between the Nen and the river Welland one of the boundaries on the North-side it is scarce five miles over Upon the Welland which Ethelwerd an ancient Writer calls c The Saxon-Annals p. 109. call it Weolud and Florence of Worcester Welund Weolod near its spring stands Braibrooke Castle B. brooke Lords of B. brooke built by Robert May aliàs de Braibrok a great favourite of King John's whose son Henry having married Christiana Ledet an heiress of a great estate his eldest son took the sirname of Ledet From one of whose grand daughters by his son as I said before it fell to the Latimers and from them to the Griffins who now enjoy it h Hard by amongst the woods I saw some few remains of a Monastery call'd anciently De Divisis now Pipwell P●pwell founded by William Buttevillein for Cistercian Monks in the reign of Henry the second From thence we have a sight of Rockingham a Castle sometime of the Earls of Albemarle built by King William the Conquerour at which time it was a Waste as we find in Domesday-book Domesday-book fortified with rampires bulwarks and a double range of battlements seated upon the side of an hill in a woody forest thereupon named Rockingham Forest i It runs next by Heringworth the seat formerly of the * De Cantempo Cantlows and now of the Lords Zouch who fetch their original from Eudo a younger son of Alan de la Zouch Lords Zouch of Ashby and have grown up to an honourable family of Barons having been much enobled by matches with one of the heirs of Cantlow and also with another of Baron † De Sancto Mauro Seymour who likewise drew his pedigree from the heir of the Lord Zouch of Ashby and the Lovels Lords of Castle-Cary in Somersetshire k Here also in this Forest I saw Deane belonging anciently to the Deanes afterwards to the Tindals which is worth mentioning if it were but for its being at present a pleasant seat of the Brudenels of which Family Sir Edmund Brudenel Kt. lately deceased was a great lover and admirer of venerable antiquity The family likewise of Engain Barons of Engain which was both ancient and honourable had their seat hard by at Blatherwic where now live the House of Staffords Knights descended from Ralph the first Earl of Stafford and converted their Castle named Hymel into a Monastery call'd Finisheved Their Issue-male fail'd about 200 years ago but of the daughters the eldest was married to Sir John Goldington the second to Sir Lawrence Pabenham and the third to Sir William Bernack Knights of great worth and honour Here also we see Apthorp d It is now the possession of the right honourable the Earl of Westmorland the seat of that worthy Knight Sir Anthony Mildemay whose father Walter Mildemay late Privy Councellor to Queen Elizabeth for his virtue wisdom piety favour to learning and learned men shown by founding Emanuel-College in Cambridg hath worthily deserv'd to be registred among the best men of this age In the neighbourhood stands Thornhaugh Thornhaugh belonging formerly to the family of ‖ De Sancto Medardo Semarc and now to the right honourable William Russel son of Francis Earl of Bedford descended of the same family of Semarc whom King James for his virtues and faithful service in Ireland while he was Lord Deputy there advanced to the dignity of Baron Russel of Thornhaugh Neither is the little Town of Welledon Welledon Bassets of Welledon to be past by considering that anciently it went for a Barony which by Maud daughter and heir of Geoffrey de Ridell who was drown'd with King Henry the first 's son descended to Richard Basset Lord Chief Justice of England in whose race it continued till K. Henry the fourth's time when Male-issue failing it fell by the females to the Knevetts and Alesburies From Heringworth the Welland visits Colliweston where the Lady Margaret Countess of Richmond King Henry the seventh's mother built a fine house Beneath Colliweston the neighbouring inhabitants dig great store of Slates Slates for covering Houses for building From hence Wittering-heath a plain runs out a long way Eastward upon which the Inhabitants tell you the Danes receiv'd a memorable overthrow And now Welland arrives at Burghley a most beautiful seat from which that singularly wise and honourable Councellor Sir William Cecil Lord high Treasurer of England the great support of this Nation receiv'd the title of Baron Burghley Burghley Baron Burghley at the hands of Queen Elizabeth This house he adorn'd with the lustre of his own virtues and beautify'd with magnificent buildings laying to it a large Park for that † Parcus word Varro uses encompass'd with a Stone-wall of great circumference l Below this at Berneck lye the old Stone Quarries out of which the Abbies of Peterborow and Ramsey were built Here to use the very words of the History of Ramsey The toiling strength of the Quarriers is often exercis'd yet still there remains work whereon to employ them resting and refreshing them now and then by a cessation And we read in King Edward the
k Matthew Paris dy'd in the year 1259. so that these walls were seen in this condition 86 years after their destruction but how much longer is uncertain to this day in the shape of rocks for bigness and solidity such was the indissoluble tenacity of the morter Miserable was the condition of these citizens at that time both in relation to their fines and banishment who having purchased for a sum of money licence to depart were notwithstanding so terrify'd that they were forc'd to take Sanctuary at St. Albans and St. Edmunds-bury Also the Castle here which was really a large and strong building was dismantled Beneath which is a very fair Collegiate Hospital or receptacle for the poor in the Church whereof Henry Earl of Lancaster and Henry of Lancaster his son who was the first Duke of Lancaster 133● lye buried Which Duke in his latter days built and dedicated the same with a pious intention for the maintenance of poor people Of which thus Henry Knighton of Leicestershire who liv'd in that age Henry Duke of Lancaster was the first founder of the Collegiate Church and Hospital without the South gate at Leicester in which he plac'd a Dean and 12 Canons Prebendaries as many Vicars and other * Ministri ministers one hundred poor and weak men and ten able women to serve and assist the sick and weak and sufficiently endow'd the said Hospital 12 As for this Hospital it continueth in some good state as another Beadhouse in the town built by W. Wigeston But the Collegiate Church which was a magnificent work and the greatest ornament of Leicester was demolish'd when Religious houses were granted to the King On the other side of the town amongst pleasant meadows water'd by the Soar was a Monastery call'd from its situation † De prees De pratis of which thus the foresaid Knighton writes Robert le Bossu Earl of Leicester 13 When he began Gerondon-Abby for Cistercians founded the Monastery of S. Mary de Prees of Leicester and richly endow'd the same with lands possessions and rents himself also by consent of Amicia his wife became a Canon Regular in the same and fifteen years serv'd God there in that Regular habit and dy'd in the Lord a Canon Thus he took upon him the Canonical habit by way of penance for having been in arms against his Prince e What name Leicester bore in the times of the Romans does not appear I think it is called in the Catalogue of Ninnius Caer Lerion but that it was built by the fabulous King l It has its name says Mr. Somner from the river Leire which at this day is call'd Soare and this is confirm'd by a town nam'd Leare which lyes at the head of it Leir let who will believe for me Yet its situation on the Military-way call'd the Foss and its distance from the Bennones High-cross and Verometum Burrow-hill agrees so exactly with the description of Antoninus that I cannot but believe that this is the Ratae Ratae which in Ptolemy is call'd Ragae tho' there is not the least track or sign of the name Ratae now remaining m About three miles from Leicester there is a place call'd Rathy but that can hardly pretend to be the ancient Ratae both because it shows no remains of Antiquity and likewise because it is remote from the Roman Fosse unless perhaps it be an old trench scarce half a mile distant on the South-side of Leicester call'd Rawdikes 14 Or Road-dikes Here I am at a stand and look about me to see what way I should follow as a guide to the discovery of ancient towns Ranulph the Monk of Chester tells us that the old Street-way goes from hence to Lincoln through the Wasts but through what Wasts he shews not The vulgar opinion is that it went on to the north through Nottinghamshire Antoninus the Emperour if I mistake not seems to intimate that it went northward through this County into Lincolnshire And really this way the footsteps of some places of antiquity appear of which we shall speak in their order but that way tho' I have made diligent search I have not hitherto discover'd any thing what others may have done I know not 15 North-west from Leicester Not far from hence is n See the description of it in Burton's Leicestershire p. 122. Grooby Grooby a rich and ample estate or as we call it a Manour Which from Hugh Grantnaismill whom William the first enricht with great revenues descended by the Earls of Leicester and the Quincys to the family of the Ferrars of which family were the Lords Ferrars of Grooby Ferrars and Grays of Grooby who a long time enjoy'd the honour of Barons but at last leaving one only daughter Isabella she by marriage convey'd the same into the name of the Greys from whom it came again to the Crown by Attainder But while I am revising this work James our Soveraign Lord and King has restor'd Sir Henry Grey a most worthy Knight to this honour of his Ancestors having before his Coronation created him Baron Grey of Grooby Let us now return to the river Soar which having past Leicester giveth name in the first place to Montsorell or rather Mont-Soar-hill Mont-Sore-hill compounded of the Norman and English languages now only noted for its market f but heretofore most famous for its Castle seated on a steep and craggy hill and over-hanging the river this first belong'd to the Earls of Leicester afterwards to Saher de Quincy Earl of Winchester in the Barons war At this day there remains nothing but a heap of rubbish Histor minor For in the year 1217. the Inhabitants of these parts having after a long siege taken the castle pull'd it down to the ground as a nest of the Devil and a den of Thieves and Robbers Higher on the other side of the river is Barrow where is digg'd the best and most approv'd sort of † Caln lime for firm building A few miles from thence the Soar ends its course in the river Trent 16 A little above Cotes now the habitation of the family of Skipwith originally descended out of Yorkshire and enrich'd many years since with fair possessions in Lincolnshire by an heir of Ormesby A little on this side of which is o See Burton's Leicestersh p. 181. Loughborrow Loughborrow a market town that in the reign of Queen Mary had one Baron Edward Hastings dignify'd with this title g but upon the death of that Queen who had a great affection for him he cloy'd with the affairs of this world refus'd to live longer in it and devoting himself wholly to God retir d into the Hospital which he had erected at Stoke Pogeis in Buckinghamshire where among the poor people he liv'd to God and with them finish'd the course of his life devoutly in Christ p Where 't is call'd Leiganburge
17 More inward are Driby and Ormesby neighbour towns which gave sirnames to two great families in their times From the Dribyes descended the elder Lords Cromwell now determined and from O●●●esbies the house of Skipwi●h still continuing Then Louth a little market-town of good resort taking its name from Lud a little river that runs by Cockerington heretofore the head of the Barony de Scoteney And lastly Grimsby Grimsby which our Sabines Eulogium lovers of their own conceits will have so call'd from one Grime a Merchant who brought up a little child of the Danish blood-royal nam'd Havelock that was exposed for which he is much talk'd of as is also that Haveloc his Pupil who was first a Scullion in the King's kitchen but afterwards for his eminent valour had the honour to marry the King's daughter He perform'd I know not what great exploits which for certain are fitter for tattling gossips in a winter night than a grave Historian bb 18 But the honour and ornament of this place was the right reverend Doctor Whitgift late Archbishop of Canterbu●y a peerless Prelate for piety and learning in our days Scarce six miles from hence farther in the Country is to be seen the ancient castle call'd at this time Castor Castor in Saxon Duang-caster and Thong-caster in British Caer-Egarry Thong-castle but in both languages it takes the name from the thing viz. from a hide cut in pieces as Byrsa Byrsa the most noted Carthaginian castle did For 't is affirm'd in our annals that Hengist the Saxon having conquer'd the Picts and Scots and got very large possessions in other places begged also of Vortigern as much ground in this place as he could encompass with an Ox's hide cut out in very small Thongs where he built this castle whence one who has writ a Breviary of the British history in verse transpos'd Virgil's verses in this manner Accepitque solum facti de nomine Thongum Taurino quantum poterat circundare tergo Took and call'd Thong in memory of the deed The ground he compass'd with an Ox's hide From Grimesby the shore gives back with great winding and admits the aestuary Abus or Humber by Thornton heretofore a College for divine worship founded by William Crassus Earl of Albemarle and by Barton where we pass into the County of York Th●●●● C●ll●g by a very noted Ferry Next this lies Ankam a little muddy river and for that reason full of Eels B●●● 〈…〉 ●ber which at last runs into the Humber near the spring-head of it stands Market-Rasin so call'd from a pretty throng market there A little higher stands Angotby now corruptly call'd Osgodby belonging heretofore to the family 19 Of Semarc of S. Medardo from whom the Airmoines had it by inheritance O●g●●● and Kelsay which was sometime the estate of the Hansards very eminent in this Shire K●●● from whom it came to the Ashcoughs Knights by marriage cc Afterwards the Ankam is joyn'd with a bridge to Glanford a little market town call'd by the common people Brigg from the bridge the true name being almost quite forgotten Near this town within a park is to be seen Kettleby the seat of the famous family of the Tirwhitts Knights 20 Descended from Grovil Oxenbridge and Echingham but formerly the dwelling-place of one Ketellus K●tt●●● as the name it self intimates Tirw●●● which was very common among the Danes and Saxons For in Saxon Bye signifies an habitation and Byan to inhabit which is the reason why so many places all over England but especially in this County end in By. Bye This County is at certain seasons so stock'd with fowl to say nothing of fish that one may very justly admire the numbers and variety of them Birds and those not common ones and such as are of great value in other Countries namely Teal Quails Woodcocks Pheasants Partridge c. but such as we have no Latin words for and that are so delicate and agreeable that the nicest palates always covet them viz. Puittes Godwitts Knotts that is as I take it Canutus's birds for they are believ'd to fly hither out of Denmark Dotterells Knots so call'd from their dotish silliness for the mimick birds are caught at candle-light by the fowler's gestures Dott●●●s if he stretch out his arm they imitate him with their wing if he holds out his leg they likewise will do the same with theirs to be short whatsoever the fowler does they do after him till at last they let the net be drawn over them But I leave these to be observed either by such as delight curiously to dive into the secrets of nature or that squander away their estates in luxury and epicurism More westward the river Trent after a long course within its sandy banks which are the bounds to this Shire falls from the Fossedike into the Humber having first of all ran pretty near Stow Stow. where Godiva Earl Leofrick's wife built a Monastery which by reason of its low situation under the hills is said by Henry of Huntingdon to lye under the Promontory of Lincoln dd Then by Knath now the seat of the Lord Willoughby of Parham formerly of the family of the Barons of Darcy Knath who had great honours and possessions by the daughter and heir of Meinill This family of the Darcies came from one more ancient to wit from one Norman de Adrecy or Darcy of Nocton who was in high esteem under Henry 3. His posterity endow'd the little Monastery at Alvingham in this County D●rcy de Noc●●● Knath But this honour was in a manner extinct when Norman the last of the right and more ancient line left only two sisters the one married to Roger Penwardin the other to Peter de Limbergh Fi●es 29 E● ● Afterwards the Trent runs down to Gainsborow a little town famous for being the harbour of the Danish ships and for the death of Sueno Tiugskege Ga●●●●●row a Danish Tyrant who when he had pillaged the Country as Matthew of Westminster writes was here stabb'd by an unknown person and so at last suffer'd the punishment due to his wickedness Some ages after this it was the possession of 21 Sir William William de Valentia Earl of Pembroke who obtain'd of Edw. 1. the privilege of a Fair for it The Barons of Borrough who dwell here of whom we have spoken before in Surrey are descended from this Earl by the Scotch Earls of Athol ●●●s of ●●ough and the Percies ee In this part of the County stood formerly the city Sidnacester once the seat of the Bishops of this County who were call'd Bishops of Lindiffar ●●acester but this town is now so sadly decay'd that neither the ruins nor name of it are in being ff I must not omit that here at Mellwood there flourishes the honourable family of St. Paul Knights corruptly call'd Sampoll which
of the Graves of the great family of Mansfield in Germany who assert the Antiquity of the family of Mansfeld in Germany and that the first Earl of Mansfeld was at the Celebration of the round Table with our Arthur and that he was born here Our Kings were formerly wont to retire hither for the sake of hunting and that you may have it in the very words of an old Inquisition Henry Fauconberge held the manour of Cukeney in this County by Serjeanty for shooing the King's horse when he came to Mansfeld 9 And the hereditary Foresters or Keepers of this Forest of Shirewood were men in their times of high estimation viz. Sir Gerard de Normanvile in the time of the Conquest the Cauzes and Birkins by whose heir it came to the Everinghams Of which family Sir Adam Everingham was summon'd to Parliaments in the reigns of King Edw. 2. and King Edw. 3. At which time they were seated at Laxton anciently call'd Lexinton where also fleurish'd a great family so sirnam'd whose heirs were marry'd into the houses of Sutton of Averham and Markham Many small rivers spring out of this wood and run towards the Trent the chief of them is Idle ●dle upon which near Idleton in the year 616 the great success and fortune of Ethered a most potent King of the Northumbrians stopp'd and fail'd him For whereas he had formerly always fought with great success here his fortune vary'd and he was cut off being defeated by Redwald King of the East Angles who set Edwin excluded then and depriv'd of the throne of his Ancestors over Northumberland The course of this little river lyes at no great distance from Markham ●●rkham a small village but yet it has given name to the Markhams a family very famous heretofore both for antiquity and virtue 10 Being descended from one of the heirs of Cressy and formerly from an heir of Lexinton as I lately shew'd the greatest ornament of which was J. Markham who was Lord Chief Justice of England and temper'd his Judgments with so much equity as you may read in the Histories of England that the glory of him will never perish in after ages i He dy'd as appears from an inscription in Markham-Church of S. Silvester's day An. D. 1409. Six miles from hence to the westward stands Workensop ●● kensop known for its great produce of liquorice ●●q●orice and famous for the Earl of Shrewsbury's house there built in this age by George Talbot Earl of Shrewsbury with magnificence becoming the state of so great an Earl and yet not to contract envy To the Talbots it came with a great inheritance from the Lovetofts first Lords of it in the Norman times by the Furnivals and Nevils Of these Lovetofts G. Lovetoft in Henry the first 's time built a Monastery here the ruins of which are still to be seen among very pleasant meadows on the East-side of the town but the West-part of the Church is yet remaining with two towers very fair and beautiful i A little higher upon the same river I saw Blithe ●●●the a noted market-town which was fortify'd with a castle as I was inform'd by Bulley or Busly a Nobleman of Norman extract but at this day hardly the ruins of it are visible so destructive is age to every thing But the little Monastery there was built by Roger Busly and Foulk de Lisieurs and this is almost the last town of Nottinghamshire to the Northward unless it be Scroby ●●roby a little town belonging to the Arch-Bishop of York seated in the very edge of it William sirnam'd the Conquerour Lords and Earls of Nottingham Lib. M. Linton Matth. Paris p. 126. See the Earls of Derby Matth. Paris p. 204. Hoveden p. 373. b. Inq. 6 Ric. 2. made his natural son William Peverell ruler of this County not by the title of Earl but Lord of Nottingham who had a son that dy'd during the life of his father and he likewise a son of the same name depriv'd of his estate by Henry the second for preparing a dose of poyson for Ranulph Earl of Chester About the same time Robert de Ferrariis who plunder'd Nottingham us'd this title in the gift he made to the Church of Tuttesbury Robert the younger Earl of Nottingham But afterwards King Richard the first gave and confirm'd to his brother John the County and Castle of Nottingham with the whole Honour of Peverell Long after that Richard the second honour'd John de Mowbray with this title who dying young and without issue his brother Thomas succeeded him who by Richard the second was created Earl Marshal and Duke of Norfolk and being banish't immediately after he begat Thomas Earl Marshal beheaded by Henry the fourth and John Mowbray who as also his son and grandson was Duke of Norfolk and Earl of Nottingham But the issue male of this family failing and Richard the infant-son of Edward the fourth Duke of York having enjoy'd this title among others 11 By his wife the heir of the Mowbraies for a small time Richard the third honour'd William Marquess of Barkley and Henry the eighth grac'd Henry Fitz-Roy his natural son 12 When he created him Duke of Richmond who both dy'd without issue with this title of Earl of Nottingham And lately in 1597. Queen Elizabeth solemnly invested Charles Howard High Admiral of England who is descended from the Mowbrays with this honour for his service as the Charter of his creation has it so stoutly and faithfully perform'd by Sea against the Spaniard in the year 1588. and his taking of Cadiz in the year 1596. he then commanding by Sea as the Earl of Essex did by Land There are 168 Parish-Churches in this County ADDITIONS to NOTTINGHAMSHIRE THE Antiquities of this County were publish'd An. 1677. by Robert Thoroton Doctor of Physick a native of it with great accuracy and exactness But keeping close to the descent of families and possessions of estates in which he has shown a great curiosity Mr. Camden and he have carry'd on two very different designs Had he given himself the liberty of making digressions upon British Roman and Saxon Antiquities as Mr. Burton in his history of Leicestershire has done his curiosity must needs have discover'd a great many things of that nature which might have been of considerable use towards the improvement of Camden Since then he has confin'd himself to the business of possessions for those matters I refer the Reader thither where he may have ample satisfaction and will go along with our Author in that part of Antiquity which he has principally touch'd upon a Going out of Leicestershire the Foss-way Foss-way which is the best if not the only direction for what we principally look after leads us into the South-part of this County and carrys us along the East of it into Lincolnshire And because Mr. Camden has taken no notice of it the best service that
Throw in a cloth you 'll see it straight ascend For all 's bore upward by the conqu'ring wind But all that 's remarkable in this high and rough little country a certain person has endeavour'd to comprise in these f Hobbs has comprehended the seven wonders in one verse Aedes mons barathrum binus fons antraque binà four verses Mira alto Pecco tria sunt barathrum specus antrum Commoda tot plumbum gramen ovile pecus Tot speciosa simul sunt Castrum Balnea Chatsworth Plura sed occurrunt quae speciosa minus Nine things that please us at the Peak we see A Cave a Den and Hole the wonders be Lead Sheep and Pasture are the useful three Chatworth the Castle and the Bath delight Much more you 'll find but nothing worth your sight 7 To these wonders may be added a wonderful Well in the Peake-forest not far from Buxtons which ordinarily ebbeth and floweth four times in the space of one hour or thereabouts keeping his just tides and I know not whether Tideswell a market town hereby hath his name thereof Hol. As to what he says of the justness of the tides there is no such thing for sometimes it does not flow once in two days and sometimes it flows twice in an hour Those of the Peverels who as I have said before were Lords of Nottingham Lords a●● Earls of Derby are also reported to have been Lords of Derby Afterwards King Rich. 1. gave and confirm'd to his brother John Simeon Dunch●●●sis Horeden Mat. Par. 204. the County and Castle of Nottingham Lancaster Derby c. with the Honours belonging to them and the Honour also of Peverel After him those of the family of the Ferrars as for as I can gather from the Registers of Tutbury Merivall and Burton Monasteries were Earls William de Ferrariis born of the daughter and heir of Peverel whom King John as it is in an ancient Charter An ancie●● Charter 1 Joan. ‖ Cinrit c. created Earl of Derby with his own hands William his son 8 Who being bruis'd with a fall out of his coach dy'd in the year 1254. and Robert the son of this William who in the Civil wars was so stripp'd of this dignity that none of his posterity tho' they liv'd in great state were ever restor'd to their full honours Many possessions of this Robert were given by King Henry 3. to his younger son Edmund and King Edward 3. so says the original record by Act of Parliament gave Henry of Lancaster the son of Henry Earl of Lancaster the Earldom of Derby to him and his heirs and likewise assign'd him 1000 marks yearly during the life of Henry Earl of Lancaster his father From that time this title continued in the family of Lancaster till King Henry 7. bestow'd it upon Thomas Stanley who had not long before marry'd Margaret the King's mother 9 To him and his heirs males He had for his successor his grandson Thomas begotten by George his son on the body of Joan the heiress of the Lord Strange of Knocking This same Thomas had by the sister of George Earl of Huntingdon Edward the third Earl of this family highly commended for his courteousness and hospitality who of the Lady Dorothy daughter to the first Thomas Howard Duke of Norfolk begat Henry the fourth Earl who soon obtain'd very honourable employments and left by the Lady Margaret daughter of Henry Earl of Cumberland Ferdinand and William successively Earls of Derby Ferdinand dy'd after a strange manner in the flower of his youth leaving by Margaret her right name is Alice his wife daughter of Sir John Spenser of Althorp three daughters viz. Anne marry'd to Grey Bruges Lord Chandos Frances espous'd to Sir John Egerton and Elizabeth the wife of Henry Earl of Huntingdon William the sixth Earl now enjoyeth the honour and hath issue by Elizabeth daughter to Edward late Earl of Oxford and now William g See an account of this family in Lancashire under the title Ormeskirke the sixth Earl of Derby of this family a man of great worth and honour enjoys that dignity Thus far of the Counties of Notting●●● and Derby partly inhabited by those who in Bede 's time were call'd Mercii Aquilonares The No●thern ●●cians because they dwelt beyond the Trent northward and possest as he says the land of seven thousand families This County includes 106 Parishes ADDITIONS to DERBYSHIRE a IN the more southerly part of this County upon the river Trent is Repton Repton where Matilda wife to Ralph Earl of Chester founded a Priory of Canons Regular of the Order of St. Austin in the year 1172. And since the dissolution Sir John Port of Etwall in this County by his last Will order'd a Free-school to be erected appointing certain lands in the Counties of Derby and Lancaster for the maintenance of this and an Hospital at Etwall both which are still in a prosperous condition b The Trent running forward receives the river Derwent and upon it stands Derby Derby which had not this name by an abbreviation of Derwent and the addition of by as our Author imagines but plainly from being a shelter for deer which is imply'd in the true name of it Deoraby And what farther confirms it is that 't was formerly a park and in the arms of the town to this day is a buck couchant in a park Which joyn'd to the Lodge-lane still the name of a passage into the Nuns-green as they put the original of it out of all doubt so do they evidently shew the ancient condition of the place When the town was built does not appear but its privileges and ancient charters argue it to be of good antiquity It is exempted from paying toll in London or any other place except Winchester and some few other towns and is a staple-town for wool a very ancient manufacture of this Kingdom There was formerly in it a Chapel dedicated to St. James near which in digging some cellars and foundations of houses bones of a great size have been found And on the north-side of St. James's lane within the compass of ground where the Chapel stood a large stone was made bare which being gently remov'd there appear'd a stone-coffin with a very prodigious corps in it but this upon the first motion of the stone turn'd into dust The Coffin was so cut as to have a round place made for the head wide about the shoulders and so narrower down to the feet On the south-east corner of the town stood formerly a castle tho' there have been no remains of it within the memory of man But that there was one appears from the name of the hill call'd Cow-castle-hill and the street that leads west to St. Peter's Church in ancient Deeds bearing the name of Castle-gate In Allhallows Church there is a monument for one Richard Crashaw of London Esquire who dy'd the 20th of June An.
Canutus founded for Nuns who being expell'd within a little time in the year 1040. Leofrick Earl of Mercia enlarg'd it and in a manner built it a-new with so great a show of gold and silver to use Malmesbury's words that the walls of the Church seem'd too strait to contain the treasures of it It was very prodigious to behold for from one beam were scrap'd w Five hundred marks Malmesb. See Dugdale's Warwickshire 50 marks of silver And he endow'd it with so great revenues that Robert de Limsey Bishop of Lichfield and Chester remov'd his See hither as to the golden sands of Lydia that as the same Malmesbury hath it he might steal from the treasures of the Church wherewithall to fill the King's Coffers to cheat the Pope of his provisions and gratifie the Roman avarice However this See after a few years return'd back to Lichfield but upon these terms that one and the same Bishop should be stil'd Bishop of Coventry and Lichfield The first Lord of this City that I know of 〈◊〉 of ●●●try was Leofrick who being incens'd against the Citizens laid upon them very heavy taxes these he would by no means remit notwithstanding the great intercession of his Lady Godiva unless she would consent to ●ide naked thro' the most frequented parts of the city ●●50 which if credit may be given to tradition she perform'd ●egus having cover'd her body with her long dangling hair without being seen by any one and so freed her Citizens from many heavy impositions From Leofrick this City by Lucia his son Algar's daughter came into the possession of the Earls of Chester for she had marry'd Ranulph the first Earl of that name and the third of the family who granted the same Liberties to Coventry that Lincoln enjoy'd and gave a great part of the City to the Monks the residue of it and Chilmore their manour-house near the City he reserv'd to him and his heirs who dying and the inheritance for want of issue-male coming to be divided amongst the sisters Coventry by the death of the Earls of Arundel fell to Roger de Monte alto De monte Alto. or Monthault whose grandson Robert granted all his right for want of issue-male to Queen Isabel Mother of King Edw. 3. to hold during her life after her decease the remainder to John de Eltham brother of the King and to the heirs of his body begotten In default of such the remainder to Edward King of England and his heirs for ever For so you have it in a Fine the second year of Edward 3. But John of Eltham was afterwards created Earl of Cornwall and this place became annex'd to the Earldom of Cornwall from which time it hath flourish'd very much Several Kings gave it divers immunities and privileges especially Edward 3. who granted them the electing of a Mayor and two Bayliffs 11 And to build and embattle a wall about it and Henry 6. who having laid to it some of the neighbouring villages granted by his Charter For so are the very words of it That it should be an entire County incorporate by it self in deed and name distinct from the County of Warwick At which time in lieu of two Bayliffs he constituted two Sheriffs and the Citizens began to enclose it with very strong walls In these are very noble and beautiful gates at that which goes by the name of Gofford is to be seen a vast shield-bone of a Boar which you may believe that Guy of Warwick or Diana of the Groves which you please kill'd in hunting after he had with his shout turn'd up the pit or pond that is now called Swansewell-pool but in ancient Charters Swineswell As to the Longitude of this City it lies in 25 degrees and 52 scruples the Latitude in 52 degrees and 25 scruples Thus much of Coventry which yet that I may ingenuously acknowledge the person who furnish'd me with it you must know you have not from me but from Henry Ferrars of Badsley a person to be respected as for his birth so for his great knowledge in Antiquity and my very good friend who in this and other places courteously directed me and as it were gave me leave to light my candle at his s Near Coventry to the North are situated Ausley Ausley a castle heretofore of the Hastings Lords of Abergavenny and ww Brandon Brand Brand. of old a seat of the Verdons To the East is placed Caloughdon vulgarly call'd Caledon Caledon an ancient seat of the Barons Segrave Barons Segrave from whom it descended to the Barons de Berkley by one of the daughters of Thomas Mowbray Duke of Norfolk These Segraves from the time that Stephen de Segrave was Lord Chief Justice of England were Barons of this Realm and enjoy'd the inheritance of the Chaucumbs whose Arms from that time they assumed viz. Arms of the Segraves A Lion rampant Argent crowned Or in a shield Sable John the last of this family marry'd Margaret Dutchess of Norfolk daughter of Thomas de Brotherton and had issue Elizabeth who carry'd the honour of Marshal of England and title of Duke of Norfolk into the family of the Mowbrays Not far from hence is Brinkle Brinkle-castle where was an ancient castle of the Mowbrays to which belong'd many fair possessions lying round it but time hath swept away the very ruins of it t as also of the Monastery of Combe Combe-Abbey which the Camvils and the Mowbrays endow'd Out of whose ashes the fair structure of the Harringtons arose in this place As you go Eastward x Anciently writ Thester Over as being seated castward of Monks-kirby and call'd but lately Cester-over by the inhabitants Dugd. Warwicksh p. 60. Cester-over presents it self the possession of the Grevils of whom I have before made mention Near which Watling street a Military way of the Romans dividing this County to the North from Leicestershire passes by High-cross of which we have already spoken near Nonn-eaton which of old was call'd Eaton but Amicia the wise of Robert Bossu Earl of Leicester as Henry Knighton writes having founded a Monastery of Nuns here in which she her self was profess'd of that number from those Nuns it got the name of Non-Eaton And formerly it was of great fame for the piety of its holy virgins who being constant in their devotions gave a good example of holy living to all about them Near this stood heretofore Asteley-castle Asteley the chief seat of the family of the Asteleys 12 Out of which flourish'd Barons in the time of King Edward the first second and third Baron Aste●ey the heiress of which was the second wife of Reginald Grey Lord of Ruthin From him sprang the Greys Marquisses of Dorset some of whom lye interr'd 13 In a most fine and fair Collegiate Church which Thomas Lord Astley founded with a Dean and Secular Canons in the neat
river rises near Healy castle built by the Barons of Aldelegh or Audley Barons Audley to whom this place was given by Harvy de Stafford as likewise Aldelegh it self by Theobald de Verdon and from these spring the family of the Stanleys Earls of Derby 8 Strange it is to read what Lands King Henry 3. confirm'd to Henry Audeley which were bestow'd on him through the bounty of the Peers and even of private Gentlemen not only in England but also in Ireland where Hugh Lacy Earl of Ulster gave him Lands together with the Constablish of Ulster so that without doubt he was either a person of singular virtue or a very great Favourite or an able Lawyer or perhaps was endu'd with all these qualifications His posterity were all ●●d in marriage with the heirs of the Lord Giffard of Brimsfield of Baron Martin Lord of Keimeis and Barstaple as also a younger brother of this house with one of the heirs of the Earl of Glocester who was by King Edward 3. created Earl of Glocester About which time James Lord Aualey acquir'd a very great reputation on the account of his valour and skill in war-like affairs who as it is related by French Historians being dangerously wounded in the battel of Poitiers when the Black Prince with many high commendations had given to him a pension of 400 marks per annum bestow'd it immediately on his four Esquires that always valiantly attended him and satisfy'd the Prince doubting that his gift might be too little for so great service with this answer gratefully acknowledging his bounty These my Esquires sav'd my life amidst my enemies and God be think'd my Ancestors have left me sufficient Revenues to maintain me in your Service Whereupon the Prince approving this prudent Liberality both confirm'd his Donation to his Esquires and besides assign'd to him Lands to the value of 600 marks yearly But by his daughter one of the co-heirs to her brother the title of Lord Audley came afterward to the Touchets and in them continueth but the inheritance and name descended to the Touchetts in whose posterity and name that family is still remaining i I must not go on here without taking notice of that house call'd Gerards Bromley both upon the account of its magnificence and also because 't is the chief seat of Thomas Gerard whom King James in the first of his reign created Baron Gerard of Gerards Bromley The Sow keeps like a parallel line at equal distance from the Trent and runs by Chebsey which formerly belong'd to the Lords Hastings 9 Reckon'd among the principal Noble-men in the time of King Edward the first and then not far from Eccleshal the residence of the Bishop of Lichfield k and Ellenhall which formerly was the seat of the Noels Noel a famous family who founded a Monastery here at Raunton from them it descended hereditarily to the Harcourts who are of an ancient and noble Norman race and flourish'd for a long time in great dignity Of the male-line of these Noels is Andrew Noel of Dalby an eminent Knight and the Noels of Wellesborow in the County of Leicester and others remaining at this day l From hence the Sow runs by Stafford Stafford heretofore Statford and first of all Betheney where Bertelin with the reputation of great sanctity liv'd formerly an Hermite Edward the elder in the year 914. built a Tower upon the North-side of the river here When William the first took his Survey of England as it is said in Domesday-book the King had only eighteen Burgesses here belonging to him and twenty mansion houses of the Honour of the Earl it paid in gross for all customs nine pounds in deniers 10 And had 13 Canons-Prebendaries who held in Frank-Almoin In another place The King commanded a castle to be made there which was lately demolish'd But at that time as it is at this day Stafford was the chief Town of this County which owes its greatest glory to Stafford a castle adjoyning to it 11 Which the Barons of Stafford of whose Progeny were the Dukes of Buckingham built for their own seat who prevail'd with King John to erect it into a Burrough with ample liberties and priviledges caus'd to be partly enclos'd with a wall and founded a Priory of Black-Canons in honour of St. Thomas of Canterbury built by the Barons of Stafford for a seat m Below this the Sow is joyn'd by a little river call'd Penke which gives name to Pennocrucium an ancient town of which we have already made mention Near the confluence of the Sow and the Trent stands Ticks-hall where the family of the Astons dwell which for antiquity and kindred is one of the best families in these parts n With these waters the Trent glides gently through the middle of the County to the Eastward having Chartley Chartley. castle at two miles distance on the left of it which from Ranulph Earl of Chester who built it fell to the Ferrars by Agnes his sister who was married to William de Ferrars Earl of Derby from whom descended and flourish'd the Lords Ferrars of Chartley Lords Ferrars of Chartley. and Anne the daughter of the last of them brought this Honour with her as a portion to Walter D'eureux her husband from whom is Robert D'eureux Earl of Essex and Lord Ferrars of Chartley. On the right side of this river almost at the same distance stands Beaudesert Beaudesert most delicately seated among the woods formerly the house of the Bishops of Lichfield but afterwards of the Barons Pagets Barons Paget For William Paget who for his great prudence and knowledge of the world being eminent both at home and abroad was in great favour with Henry the eighth and King Edward the sixth having got a large estate was created Baron Paget of Beaudesert by Edward the sixth 12 He was as it may be collected from his Epitaph Secretary and Privy Counsellor to King Henry 8. and constituted by his Testament Counsellor and Adjutant to King Edward the sixth during his minority to whom he was Chancellour of the Dutchy of Lancaster Comptroller of the Houshold and by him created as I have already intimated Baron and Knight of the Garter as also by Queen Mary Lord Privy-Seal Whose grandson William is now the fourth Baron Pagett His grandson Thomas the fourth Baron flourishes now at this day who by his virtue and progress in the best kinds of learning is a grace and ornament to his whole family and in this respect but justly distinguisht by an honourable mention here From hence the Trent visits Lichfield L●●hfie●d scarce four miles distant from the right side of it Bede calls it Licidfeld which Rous of Warwick renders a field of carcasses and tells us that many Christians suffer'd martyrdom there under Dioclesian The city stands low is pretty large and neat and divided into two parts by a kind of lough or clear water
14 thick set almost in a direct line and at equal distances for a mile together They seem design'd to preserve the memory of some Action or other but the injury of Time has put it beyond all possibility of pointing out the particular occasion Upon Loder there is a place of the same denomination which as Strickland not tar off has given name to an ancient and famous family u Lower down w at the confluence of Loder and Eimot was dug up in the year 1602. this stone set up in memory of Constantine the Great IMP. C. VAL. CONSTANTINO PIENT AVG. After Eimot has been for some space the bound between this County and Cumberland x near Isanparles Is●●p● a rock well known in the neighbourhood which Nature hath made of such a difficult ascent with several caverns also and windings as if she design'd a retreat for the distress'd in troublesome times it throws its own waters with those of other rivers into Eden a few miles below having first receiv'd the little river Blencarne the bound on this side between Westmorland and Cumberland upon which I understood there were the vast ruins of a Castle call'd the Hanging walls of Marcantoniby Hanging-●a●ls of Marcanto●●y that is as they tell you of Mark Antony 〈◊〉 Term. M●●h R. 6. 〈◊〉 l. 〈◊〉 of 〈◊〉 Vipants The h That both Ralph Meschines and Hugh de Morvil with some others of that family were Lords of Westmorland before Robert de Vipont Mr. Machel has discover'd from Records and will prove at large in his Antiquities of this County The present Lord is the right honourable Thomas Tufton Earl of Thanet to which family it descended from their ancestors the Viponts and Cliffords first Lord of Westmorland that I know of was Robert de Veteri ponte or Vipont who bore in a shield gules six Annulets Or. For King John gave him the Bailiwick and revenues of West morland by the service of four Knights whereupon the Cliffords his successors held the Sheriffdom of Westmorland down to our age For Robert the last of the Viponts left only two daughters 6 Isabel Sybil wife of Roger Lord Clifford and Idonea wife of 7 Sir Roger. Roger de Leybourne A long while after King Richard 2. created Ralph de Nevil or New-Ville Lord of Raby a person of a very noble and ancient English Pedigree being descended from Uhtred E. of Northumberland first E. of Westmorland Earls of Westmorland whose posterity 8 By his former wife Margaret by his first wife M. daughter of the Earl of Stafford enjoy'd this honour till Charles hurry'd on by a boundless Ambition violating his duty to Queen Elizabeth and his Country 9 And covering treason under the mantle of Religion fix'd an eternal mark of infamy upon this noble family cast a blot upon his own dignity 10 By actual Rebellion in the year 1599. and leaving his native country liv'd and dy'd very miserably in the Netherlands His issue by the second wife Katharine daughter of John of Gaunt D. of Lancaster became so famous and numerous that almost at the same time there flourish'd of it 11 Beside the Earl of Westmorland the Earl of Salisbury the Earl of Warwick the Earl of Kent the Marquis of Montacute 12 A Duke of Bedford Baron Latimer and Baron Abergevenny In this County are i In the bottom of Westmorland are 25. and in the Barony of Kendal 7. Besides these there is a great number of Chapels of ease many of which are fallen to decay 26 large Parishes ADDITIONS to WESTMORELAND a IN the general description of this County Mr. Camden seems to have taken his measures only from one part of it For travelling from Lancaster through the Barony of Kendal to Workington in Cumberland he met with little in his road besides great mountains with here and there a Valley between and so took an estimate of the whole from that part imagining probably that the more southerly corner was like to be as good at least if not better than the rest But had he gone directly northward he would have found reason to change his opinion the Barony of Westmorland commonly call'd the bottom of Westmorland from it's low situation being a large open champain country in length not less than 20 miles and in breadth about 14. And so far is it from being uncultivated that it affords great plenty of arable grounds and those good store of corn Nor do Mores in the northern parts signifie wild barren mountains but generally Common of pasture in opposition to Mountains or Fells So that in the Barony of Kendal where they have most Mountains there are few or no Mores their Commons being generally call'd Fells and in the bottom of Westmorland there are few mountains except that ridge which bounds the Country like a rampire or bulwark but very many Mores which yet are so far from being uncapable of improvement that most of them have been formerly plow'd as the ridges appearing do assure us If the whole Country therefore were to be deriv'd from barren mountains we might say with more reason that it had the name from lying westward of that long ridge of hills which Mr. Camden calls the English Apennine As for the story of King Marius tho' our Author perhaps justly rejects it so far as 't is urg'd for giving name to this County yet we must not be too hasty in exploding the whole matter of fact as fabulous since the ‖ 〈…〉 ●2 learned Primate of Armagh has said so much in favour of it Before we descend to a particular Survey we may observe that the Gentlemens houses in this County are large and strong and generally built Castle-wise for defence of themselves their Tenants and their goods whenever the Scots should make their inroads which before the time of King James 1. were very common That it is divided into the Barony of Kendal and the Barony of Westmorland we have before hinted These two parts belong to two several Dioceses the former to Chester the latter to Carlisle In each we find with two Wards several Deanries Parishes and Constablewicks but no Hundreds possibly because in ancient times these parts paid no Subsidies being sufficiently charg'd in Border service against the Scots b On the south side lies Milthrop Milthrop the only sea-town in this County tho' the commodities which are imported are brought hither only in small vessels from Grange in Lancashire And near it Levens Levens where is a fair stone bridge over the river Kent on the south-side of which river are still to be seen the ruins of an ancient round building now call'd Kirks-head which is said to have been anciently a Temple dedicated to Diana And not far from it appear the ruins of another building which seems to have belong'd to the same place In the Park which is well stor'd with Fallow-deer and almost equally divided by
of England and return homewards might be entertained which till K. Henry the second 's time remained in the hands of the King 's of Scotland In this Lothian the first place that presents it self upon the Sea Shore is Dunbar Dunbar a Castle in ancient times very strongly fortify'd the seat of the Earls of Merch before-mentioned thence commonly called Earls of Dunbar Earls of Dunbar often taken by the English and recovered by the Scots But in the Year 1567 it was demolisht by order of the States to prevent its being a retreat for Rebels But King James in the year 1515. conferr'd the Title and Honour of Earl of Dunbar upon Sir Geo. Hume for his approved Loyalty whom he had created before Baron Hume of Berwick Baron Home or Hume of Berwick to him his Heirs and Assigns m It is now a Viscounty in the person of Robert Constable Viscount Dunbar Hard by the little River Tine after a short course falleth into the Sea near the source whereof stands Zeister Zeister which hath its Baron of the Family of the Hays Earls of Arroll who is likewise hereditary Sheriff of the little Territory of Twedale or Peblis Upon the same rivulet some few miles higher in a large plain lies Hadington or Hadina fortify'd by the English with a deep and large ditch and a four square turf-wall without with four bullwarks at the Corners and as many more upon the Inner wall and as valiantly defended by Sir George Wilford an Englishman against Monsieur Dessie who fiercely attaqu'd it with 10000 French and Germans till the Plague growing hot and lessening the garison Henry Earl of Rutland came with a great Army and rais'd the siege and having levell'd the Works conducted the English home And now of late K. James 6. hath for his loyalty and valour elected into the Nobility of Scotland Sir John Ramsey whose RIGHT HAND was the DEFENDER OF THE PRINCE AND COUNTRY in that horrid Conspiracy of the Gowries under the title and honour of Viscount Hadington Viscou●● Hadin●ton n It is now an Earldom in the fami●y of the Hamiltons Of this Hadington J. Johnston hath these Verses Planities praetensa jacet prope flumina Tinae Fluminis arguti clauditur ista sinu Vulcani Martis quae passa incendia fati Ingemit alterno vulnere fracta vices Nunc tandem sapit icta Dei praecepta secuta Praesidio gaudet jam potiore Poli. Near Tine's fair stream a spatious plain is shown Tine's circling arms embrace the hapless town Where Mars and fiery Vulcan reign'd by turns With fatal rage whose dire effects she mourns By sad experience now at last grown wise She slights their fury and their power defies Contemns the dangers that before she fear'd And rests secure when mighty heaven 's her guard A little way from Hadington stands Athelstanford Athel●●●●ford so named from Athelstan a Commander of the English slain there with his men about the year 815 but that this was Athelstan that Warlike King of the West-Saxons must be utterly deny'd if we have any respect to time or the manner of his Death Above the Mouth of this Tine upon the doubling of the shore stands Tantallon Castle from whence Archibald Douglas Earl of Angus was very troublesome to James 5. King of Scotland Here by the winding of the shores on both sides room is made for a very Noble Arm of the Sea well furnished with Isllands and by the influx of many rivers and the Sea-tides dilated to a mighty breadth Ptolemy calls it Boderia Tacitus Bodotria Bodoe●●● from its depth as I conjecture the Scots the Forth and Frith we Edenborough-Frith others Mare Fresicum and Mare Scoticum and the Eulogium Morwiridh Upon this after you are past Tantallon Tantal●●● are seated first North-Berwick antiently famous for a House of Religious Virgins and then Drylton Drylto● which formerly belong'd to the eminent family of the Haliburtons and now by the favour of K. James 6. gives the Title of Baron to Sir Tho. Ereskin Captain of his Guards as Felton Viscou●● Felton hard by gives the Honourable Title of Viscount to the same person who was the first that had the stile and dignity of a Viscount in Scotland Over against them in the sea near the shore lies the Bass The Bass an Island which rises up as it were in one continued craggy rock on every side inaccessible yet it has a Fort a fountain and pasture-grounds but is so hollow'd and undermined by the waves that it is almost wrought through What prodigious flights of sea-fowl especially of those Geese they call Scouts ●●outs and Soland-Geese at certain times flock hither ●●●and●●e● ●●ch ●●●n to be ●●●'s Pi●●●ae for by report their number is so great as in a clear day to darken the Sun what multitudes of Fishes they bring so as that 100 Soldiers in Garison here liv'd upon no other provision but the fresh fish brought hither by them as they give out what a quantity of sticks they convey for the building of their nests so that by their means the inhabitants are abundantly provided with firing what vast profit also their feathers and oyl amount to are things so incredible that no one scarcely would believe it but he that had seen it ●●●on ●●●●-town Then as the shore draws back Seton appears which seems to take its name from its situation upon the Sea and to have given one to the Right Honourable House of the Setons descended of an English Family and a Daughter of King Robert Bruce of which the o The Marquisate of Huntley is now in the family of Gordon who are likewise Dukes of Gordon Marquiss of Huntley Robert Earl of Wintoun 〈◊〉 of Win●●●n Alexander Earl of Dunfermling all advanced to honours by King James 6. are Branches d After this the River Esk hath its influx into the Frith having run by Borthwic ●●●thwic which hath its Barons so sirnamed of Hungarian extraction by N●wbottle ●●wbottle that is the new building formerly a little Monastery now a Barony in the person of Sir Mark Ker by Dalkeith ●●●●●●th lately a pleasant seat of the Earls of Morton and Musselborough ●●●●●bo●●●gh below which upon Edward Seymour Duke of Somerset's entring Scotland with a * compleat Army ●●●●o to challenge the performance of Articles for the marrying Mary Queen of Scotland to Edward 6. King of England there happened a most dismal day to the youth of the noble Families in Scotland who there fell in the battle Here I must not pass by in silence this Inscription which J-Napier a learned person in his Commentaries on the Apocalyps informs us was here dug up and which the eminently ingenious Sir Peter Young Knight King James the 6th's Tutor hath thus more truly described APOLLINI GRANNO Q. LVSIVS SABINIA NVS PROC AVG. ●●tem ●●ptum ●●it lu●● meri●● V. S. S. L
See was placed here whose Bishops as all the rest of the Kingdom of Scotland were consecrated and confirm'd by the Archbishop of York till at the intercession of King James 3. by reason of often wars between the Scots and English Pope Sixtus the fourth constituted the Bishop of St. Andrews Primate and Metropolitan of all Scotland and Pope Innocent the eighth bound him and his successors to the imitation of the Metropolitan of Canterbury in these words Ex Cam. Apostolicá l. 24. f. 24. That in matters concerning the Archiepiscopal state they should observe and firmly hold the offices of Primacy and Legatine power their rights and the free exercise thereof the honours charges and profits and they should endeavour to observe inviolably the laudable customs of the famous Metropolitan Church of Canterbury whose Archbishop is born Legate of the Kingdom of England c. Nevertheless before this Lawrence Lundoris and Richard Corvil Doctors of the Civil Law reading publick lectures in this place laid the Foundation of an University now grown famous for the many learned men it hath produced for its three Colleges and in them for the Regius-Professors * See the Additions In commendation of it J. Johnston Regius-Professor of Divinity there hath these verses FANUM REGULI Sive ANDREAPOLIS Imminet Oceano paribus descripta viarum Limitibus pingui quàm benè septa solo Magnificis opibus staret dum gloria prisca Pontificum hîc fulsit Pontificalis apex Musarum ostentat surrecta palatia coelo Delicias hominum deliciasque Deûm Hîc nemus umbriferum Phoebi Nymphaeque sorores Candida quas inter praenitet Uranie Quae me longinquis redeuntem Teutonis oris Suscipit excelso collocat inque gradu Urbs nimiùm foelix Musarum si bona nôsset Munera aetherii regna beata Dei. Pelle malas pestes urbe quae noxia Musis Alme Deus coëant Pax Pietasque simul In equal streets the beauteous structures run And tow'ard the Ocean stretch the spacious town While Rome and Mitres aw'd the easie state Here the great Prelate kept his splendid seat In lofty Courts the gentle Muses reign And cheer with heavenly numbers gods and men While tuneful Phoebus charms the sounding groves And wondring Nymphs repeat his sacred loves Here me returning from the German Coast To those dear comforts I so long had lost Me Phoebus blest with his peculiar care Me in his honours gave the largest share Too happy town did she but rightly know The gifts that heaven and heaven's dear tribe bestow Far hence ye guardian powers all dangers chase But crown the Muses and the sacred place With constant joys of piety and peace Hard by the little river Eden or Ethan hath its entrance into the sea which rising near Falkland Falkla●● formerly belonging to the Earls of Fife m It was built by King James 5. whereof the Marquis of Athol is hereditary Keeper The place gives the title of Viscount to the Family of F●lk●and but now a Royal retirement excellently well seated for the pleasures of hunting runs forward under a continued ridge of hills which cuts this territory in the middle by Struthers so called from the abundance of Reeds that grow there a Castle of the Barons Lyndsey Studen● and by Cupre a noted Borough where the Sheriff keeps his Court. Upon which J. Johnston hath these verses CUPRUM FIFAE Arva inter nemorisque umbras pascua laeta Lenè fluens vitreis labitur Eden aquis Huc veniat siquis Gallorum à finibus hospes Gallica se hìc iterum fortè videre putet Anne etiam ingenium hinc fervida pectora traxit An potius patriis hauserat illa focis By fields by shady woods by flowry meads His chrystal stream the gentle Eden guides To these blest seats should Gallick strangers come They 'd find no change but think themselves at home Did that kind neighb'ring country lend the town The wit and courage she so oft hath shown Or was she better furnish'd from her own The shore now turns towards the North and upon the aestuary of Tay stood two famous Monasteries Bolmerinock ●●●meri●●●● built by Queen Ermengerd wife to King William and daughter of Viscount Beaumont in France now proud of its Baron James Elphinston 6 Advanc'd to that honour by James King of Great Britain and Lundoris ●●nd●ris founded amongst the Woods by David Earl of Huntingdon and now the Barony of Patrick Lesley Between these two lyes Banbrich ●●●●rich a seat of the Earls of Rothes strongly built in form of a Castle But concerning the Towns of Fife lying along the shore take if you please these verses of J. Johnston Opida sic toto sunt sparsa in littore ut unum Dixeris inque uno plurima juncta eadem Littore quot curvo Forthae volvuntur arenae Quotque undis refluo tunditur ora salo Penè tot hic cernas instratum puppibus aequor Urbibus crebris penè tot ora hominum Cuncta operis intenta domus foeda otia nescit Sedula cura domi sedula cura forìs Quae maria quas non terras animosa juventus Ah! fragili fidens audet adire trabe Auxit opes virtus virtuti dura pericla Juncta etiam lucro damna fuere suo Quae fecere viris animos cultumque dedere Magnanimis prosunt damna pericla labor Ore all the shore so thick the towns are shown You 'd think them thousands and yet all but one As many sands as Forth 's great stream can hide As many waves as swell the rising tide So many vessels cut the noisie flood Such numerous tribes the scatter'd hamlets crowd On land some ply their work and some on seas And scorn the pleasures of inglorious ease Thro' what strange waves to what forsaken shores The labou'ring youth still urge their slender oars Thus riches come and happy plenty flows But riches still to accidents expose And he that gains must ever fear to lose Thus bred in hardships and inur'd to care They trust their courage and forget to fear Loss pains and all that angry fate can send Prove but incentives to a noble mind The Governour of this County as likewise of all the rest in the Kingdom was in antient times a Thane Thane that is in the old English tongue the King's Minister as it is also in the Danish at this day but Malcolm Canmore made Macduff who was Thane of Fife before the first hereditary Earl of Fife Earls of Fife and in consideration of his good services granted that his posterity should place the King when he is to be crowned in his chair lead the van-guard in the King's Army and if any of them should by chance kill either a gentleman or a commoner he should buy it off with a piece of money Not far from Lundoris there stands a stone-cross Cross Mac-duff which serves for a boundary
and although some of the Churches are defaced yet wants it not its beauties so divided too that almost every street is inhabited by a several trade apart and is furnished by the Tay every tide with commodities from sea in their light Vessels b. It gives the Title of Earl to the Family of Perth chief of the name of Drommon● Upon it J. Johnston so often mentioned PERTHUM Propter aquas Tai liquidas amoena vireta Obtinet in medio regna superba solo Nobilium quondam Regum clarissima sedes Pulchra situ pinguis germine dives agri Finitimis dat jura locis morémque modúmque Huic dare laus illis haec meruisse dari Sola inter patrias incincta est moenibus urbes Hostibus assiduis ne vaga praeda foret Quanta virum virtus dextrae quae praemia nôrunt Cimber Saxo ferox genus Hectoridum Felix laude novâ felix quoque laude vetustâ Perge recens priscum perpetuare decus Near Tay's great stream amongst delightful plains Majestick Perth in royal splendour reigns For lofty Courts of antient Kings renown'd Fair is the site and ever rich the ground Hence laws and manners neighb'ring parts receive Their praise 't is to deserve and hers to give No walls like her her sister towns can show Which guard her riches from the bord'ring foe How stout her Knights what noble spoils they won The Britains Saxons and the Danes have known Renown'd in eldest and in latest days Oh! may her glories with her years encrease And new deserts advance her antient praise And now lately King James 6. hath advanced Perth to an Earldom upon his creating James Baron Dromond Earl of Perth Earl of Perth Near Perth is Methven Bar●● Methven which Margaret of England Dowager to King James 4. purchased with ready money for her third husband Henry Stewart of the Blood Royal and his Heirs and withal obtained of her son James 5. the dignity of a Baron for him A little lower is Rethven a Castle of the Rethvens R●●hven on R●e●er● a name to be accursed and raz'd out of all memorials since the States of the Kingdom past a decree that all of that name should lay it down and take a new one after that the Rethvens Brothers in an execrable and horrid conspiracy had plotted the murther of the best of Princes James 6. who had created their father William Earl of Gowry but afterwards upon his going insolently to prescribe Laws to his Sovereign and being convicted of High Treason beheaded him But I may seem to have said too much of persons condemned to eternal oblivion and yet the mentioning such wicked generations may be of use to caution posterity As for Gowry Gowry so much celebrated for its Corn-fields and the excellency of its soil it lyes along the other side of the Tay being a more level country In this Tract over against Perth on the farther side of Tay stands Scone S●●ne a famous Monastery in times past and honoured with the Coronation of the Kings of Scotland ever since King Keneth having hard by made a general slaughter of the Picts placed a stone here enclosed in a wooden chair for the Inauguration of the Kings of Scotland It had been transported out of Ireland into Argile and King Edw. 1. of England caused it to be convey'd to Westminster Concerning which I have inserted this Prophecy so common in every man's mouth since it hath now proved true as few of that sort do Ni fallat fatum Scoti quocunque locatum Inveniunt lapidem regnare tenentur ibidem Or Fate 's deceiv'd and heaven decrees in vain Or where they find this stone the Scots shall reign Now by the special favour of King James Scone gives the title of Baron to c He erected here stately buildings which are possessed by his heirs under the title of Vicounts of Stormont Theatr. Scotiae p. 46. David Murray Where the Tay now grown larger dilates it self Arrol Arrol hangs over it the seat of the noble Earls of Arrol Earls of Arrol they have been hereditary High Constables of Scotland ever since the Bruses times and deduce their original which is certainly very antient from one Hay a man of prodigious strength and courage who together with his sons in a dangerous battle against the Danes at Longcarty catching up an Ox-yoke by fighting valiantly and encouraging others rallied the retreating Scots so as they got the day Which victory and deliverance both the King and the States ascrib'd to his singular valour Whereupon several excellent lands were assign'd hereto him and his posterity who in testimony of this action have set a Yoke for their Crest over their Coat of Arms 13 Three Escutcheons gules in Argent As for Huntley-Castle Huntley-Castle hard by I have nothing to write of it but that it has given name to a very great and honourable family of which hereafter g ANGVS UPon the aestuary of the Tay and up a little way within it along the North-Eske lyes Angus called by the genuine Scots Aeneia extending it self into fields bearing wheat and all other sorts of grain large hills lakes forests pastures and meadows and beautified with several sorts and castles In the first entrance into it from Gowry stands Glamis ●●o Gla●●● a Castle and the Barony of a Family sirnamed Lyons which have been famous ever since J. Lyon a great favourite of King Robert 2. received this and the dignity of a Baron with the King's daughter in Marriage and therewith as I find written the sirname of Lyon with a Lyon in his Arms within a Treassure Floury ●e shield 〈◊〉 the 〈◊〉 and ●reassure ●●ry B. as the Kings themselves bear but in different colours Patrick now Lord Glamis very lately obtained the honour of Earl of Kinghorn from King James 6. At a little distance is Forfar ●isdom 〈◊〉 ●orf●r where for the administration of Justice the Barons Greies are hereditary Sheriffs 〈◊〉 ●ry who are descended from the Greies of Chillingham in Northumberland and came into Scotland with King James 1. when he returned out of England Upon the first of whom nam'd Andrew the King bountifully conferr'd the Lordship of Foulis with Helena Mortimer for his Wife ●●ndee 〈◊〉 ●tene 〈◊〉 verb. ●●if Near the Tay's mouth is Dundee d This Town has a good Trade fine buildings and an Hospital for the poor At present it gives the Title of Marquiss to the chief Family of the Grahams which the antients called Alectum others Taodunum a town well frequented and whose Constable by a peculiar privilege is Standard-bearer to the Kings of Scotland Hector Boetius ●●●tor ●●●tius who was here born expounds the name Dundee Donum Dei by allusion This person in that age when learning began again to flourish wrote an elegant history of Scotland out of such hidden monuments of Antiquity that Paulus Jovius wonder'd there should be
Dunrobin Castle a place of the greatest note in these parts * See the Additions the principal seat of the ancient Earls of Sutherland Earls of Sutherland of the family if I mistake not of Murray Of whom William in the reign of King Robert Brus is most famous who married K. David's own sister and had by her a son whom K. David declared his successor in the Kingdom and to whom he made his Nobles swear Allegiance But he died a little after without issue and the Earldom in the end came hereditarily by a daughter and heir to A. Gordon of the family of the Earls of Huntley o CATHNES SOmewhat higher lies Cathnes butting upon the German Ocean indented as it were by the many windings and breakings of the shore Here in Ptolemie's time dwelt the Catini falsly written in some Copies Carini The Carini amongst whom the same Ptolemy places the river Ila The River Ila which may seem to be the now Wifle Grazing and fishing are the chief income of the inhabitants of this countrey The chief castle therein is called Girnego the general residence of the Earls of Cathnes The Episcopal See is at Dornok a village if it were not for that obscure where likewise K. James the 4th appointed the Sheriff of Cathnes to reside or else at Wik as occasions should require 16 For the administration of Justice The Earls of Cathnes Earls 〈◊〉 Cath●●● were anciently the same with the Earls of the Orcades but afterwards became distinct and by the eldest daughter of one Malise given in marriage to William Sincler the King's Pantler his posterity came to the honor of being Earls of Cathnes which they still enjoy p STRATH-NAVERN THE utmost coast of all Britain which with the front of the shore looks full against the North-pole and hath the middle of the tail of Ursa Major which as Cardan was of opinion causes translations of Empires just over its head was inhabited as we may see in Ptolemy by the Cornabii Cornabii Amongst them he places the river Nabeus Nabeus a Rive● which names are so nearly related in sound that the people seem to have taken their name from the river they dwelt upon Neither is the modern name Strath-Navern that is the Valley by the Navern altogether unlike them in sound This country hath little cause to brag of its fertility by reason of the sharpness of the air it is very thinly inhabited and thereupon extreamly infested with the fiercest of Wolves Wolves which to the great damage of the countrey not only furiously set upon whole droves of cattle but even upon the inhabitants themselves to their manifest danger Insomuch that not only in this but many other parts of Scotland the Sheriffs and respective inhabitants are bound by Act of Parliament in their several Sheriffdoms to go a hunting thrice every year to destroy the Wolves and their Whelps But if in this northern countrey that may be any comfort to them it certainly of all Britain hath the shortest nights and longest days For by its being distanced 59 degrees and 40 minutes from the Equator the longest day The longe●● day is 18 hours and 25 minutes and the shortest night 5 hours and 45 minutes So that the ancient Panegyrist was in the wrong when he said that the sun did not set at all here but slipt aside and glanced upon the Horizon relying upon the authority of Tacitus That the extreme points and plain levels of the earth having low shades rais'd up no darkness at all But Pliny speaks more truth and reason where he treats of the longest days according to the inclination of the solar Circle to the Horizon The longest days says he in Italy are fifteen hours in Britain seventeen where the light nights in Summer prove that by experience which reason would oblige one to believe That at the Solstice when the Sun approaches nearer to the Pole of the World the places of the earth under the Pole have day six months ●●●●sto 〈…〉 through the light 's having but a narrow compass and night for so long when it is far remote in Winter In this utmost tract by Ptolemy carried farther Eastward whereas indeed it bears full North for which Roger Bacon in his Geography taxed him long ago Tacitus says That a prodigious vast space of land runs out in length and grows narrow like a wedge Here three Promontories shoot out into the Sea mentioned by ancient Writers Berubium ●●●i●um 〈…〉 now Urdehead near the village Bernswale Virvedrum now Dunsby aliàs Duncans-bay looked upon as the remotest Promontory of Britain Orcas now Howburn placed by Ptolemy over against the Orcades as the utmost of them all This is likewise called by Ptolemy Tarvedrum and Tarvisium Tarvisium Tarvodanum Martiano so named if I guess aright because it determines Britain For Tarvus What Tarvus signifies in the British tongue signifies an ending with which give me leave to make an end of this Book I shall treat of the O●cades Ebudes and Shetland Shetland in their proper places Thus have I run over Scotland more briefly than the dignity of so great a Kingdom deserves nor do I at all doubt but that some one hereafter may give a larger draught of it with a more exquisite pen with more certainty and better information since as I said before the greatest of Princes hath now laid open to us these remote Countries hitherto shut up In the mean time if I have not been so vigilant as I ought the most watchful may sometimes take a nod or if any mistake in this unknown tract hath led me from the truth as nothing is so common as error I hope the courteous Reader upon my owning it will grant me a pardon and kindly direct me into the right way Additions to CALEDONIA IN the description of this part of Scotland before we come to Fife which our Author first touches upon we are to take a view of two little Shires that lye to the west Clackmanan shire and Kinross-shire ●●ima●● re a Clackmanan-shire so called from the head burgh of it Clackmanan is bounded to the north by the Ochill hills to the south by the Firth of Forth to the east with part of Perthshire and to the west with part of Sterlingshire 'T is about eight miles in length and where broadest but five Towards the Firth it is a plain Country and a fertile soil the rest is fitter for pasture but that below the Ochill-hills abounds both with Grains and pasture About Alloa and Clackmanan they have great store of Coal-pits the Coal whereof together with their Salt furnish a foreign trade It is watered with the river Devan which runs six miles through the shire ●●●ma● Clackmanan is seated upon a rising ground the Castle whereof is a stately dwelling with fine gardens and good Inclosures 〈◊〉 Alloa is a pleasant little town with a small haven for ships
〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Old Time moves slowly though he knows no stay And steals our voices as he creeps away Unseen himself he hides from mortal view Things that are seen and things unseen does shew However I comfort my self with that Distich of Mimnermus which I know by experience to be true 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Oblectes animum plebs est morosa legendo Ille benè de te dicet at ille malè E'en rest contented for thou l't ever find Thy labours some will blame and some commend The Preface to the Annals of Ireland AS the Press had got thus far the most honourable William Lord Howard of Naworth out of his great Zeal for promoting the Knowledge of Antiquity communicated to me the Annals of Ireland in MS. reaching from the Year 1152. to the Year 1370. And seeing there is nothing extant that I know of more perfect in this kind since Giraldus Cambrensis and the excellent Owner has given me leave I think it very proper to publish them The World is without doubt as much indebted to the Owner for preserving them as to the Author himself for writing them The Stile is rough and barren according to the Age it was writ in yet the Contents give great Light into the Irish History and would have been helpful to me if I had had the use of them sooner As they are I here present them to the Reader faithfully copied exactly from the Original even with the Errors if he has any thing of this nature more perfect I hope he 'll communicate it if not he must be content with this till some one or other will give us a more compleat account of these Affairs and continue it down to the present Time with m●r eleg ance a Work of no great Difficulty THE ANNALS of IRELAND IN the Year of our Lord MCLXII died Gregory the first Archbishop of Dublin a worthy Person in all respects and was succeeded by Laurence O Thothil Abbat of S. Kemnus de Glindelagh a pious Man Thomas was made Archbishop of Canterbury MCLXVI Rothericke O Conghir Prince of Conaught was made King and Monarch of Ireland MCLXVII Died Maud the Empess This Year Almarick King of Jerusalem took Babylon and Dermic Mac Morrogh Prince of Leinster while O Rork King of Meth was employed in a certain expedition carried away his Wife who suffer'd her self to be ravish'd with no great difficulty For she gave him an Opportunity to take her as we find in Cambrensis MCLXVIII Donate King of Uriel founder of Mellifont Abby departed this Life This year Robert Fitz Stephens neither unmindful of his promise nor regardless of his faith came into Ireland with thirty * Militibus Knights MCLXIX Richard Earl of Strogul sent a certain young Gentleman of his own family nam'd Remund into Ireland with ten Knights about the Kalends of May. The same Earl Richard this year attended with about 200 Knights and others to the number of a thousand or thereabouts arriv'd here on S. Bartholomew's eve This Richard was the son of Gilbert Earl of Stroghul that is Chippestow formerly Strogul and of Isabel Aunt by the Mother's side to K. Malcolm and William King of Scotland and Earl David a hopeful man and the morrow after the same Apostle's day they took the said City where Eva Dermick's daughter was lawfully married to Earl Richard and her Father gave her MCLXX. S. Thomas Becket Archbishop of Canterbury suffer'd martyrdom This same year the City of Dublin was taken by Earl Richard and his party and the Abby de Castro Dei i. of God's Castle was founded MCLXXI Died Dermick Mac Morrah of a great age at Fernys about the Calends of May. MCLXXII The Valiant King Henry arriv'd at Waterford with 500 Knights and among other things bestow'd Meth upon * Dominus Sir Hugh Lacy. The Abbey de Fonte vivo was founded this year MCLXXIV Gelasius Archbishop of Armagh the first Primate of Ireland a pious man died at a great age He is said to have ●een the first Archbishop that wore the Pall His Predecessors were only titular Archbishops and Primates in reverence and honour to S. Patrick the Apostle of this Nation whose See was so much esteem'd by all men that not only Bishops and Priests and those of the Clergy submitted themselves to the Bishop but Kings and Princes Gilbert a Prelate of great worth succeeded him in the Archbishoprick MCLXXV William King of Scots was taken prisoner at Alnwick MCLXXVI Bertram Verdon founded the Abbey of Crokesdenne MCLXXVII Earl Richard died at Dublin about the Kalends of May and was buried in Trinity Church there This year Vivian a Cardinal call'd from S. Stephens in the Mount Caellius was sent Legat of the Apostolick See into Ireland by Pope Alexander MCLXXVIII On the ninth of the Kalends of December the Abby de Samaria was founded This same year Rose Vale that is to say Rossglass was founded MCLXXIX Miles Cogan and Ralph the son of Fitz-Stephen his Daughter's Husband were slain between Waterford and Lismore c. as we read in Cambrensis The same year Harvie Mont Marish enter'd into the Monastery of S. Trinity in Canterbury who founded the Monastery of Mary de Portu i.e. of Don Broth. MCLXXX Was founded the Abby of the Quire of Benedict and also the Abby of Geripount This Year Laurence Archbishop of Dublin on the 18th of the Kalends of December died happily in Normandy within the Church of S. Mary of Aux After him succeeded John Cumin an Englishman born at Evesham elected unanimously by the Clergy of Dublin the King himself stickling for him and was confirm'd by the Pope This John built S. Patrick's Church at Dublin MCLXXXIII Was confirm'd the Order of the Templers and Hospitallers and the Abby De Lege Dei was founded MCLXXXV John the King's Son made Lord of Ireland by his father came into Ireland in the 12th year of his age which was the 13th since his father's first coming the 15th since the arrival of Fitz-Stephens and the 14th since the coming of Earl Richard and return'd again in the same 15th year of his Age. MCLXXXVI Was confirm'd the Order of the Carthusians and the Grandians This year Hugh Lacy was kill'd treacherously at Dervath by an Irishman because the said Hugh intended to build a Castle there and as he was shewing an Irishman how to work with a Pick-ax and bow'd himself down forwards the Irishman struck off his Head with an Axe and so the Conquest ended The same year Christian Bishop of Lismore formerly Legat of Ireland who copied those vertues which he had both seen and heard eminent in his pious Father S. Bernard and Pope Eugenius a venerable person with whom he liv'd in the Probatory of of Clareval and by whom he was made Legat of Ireland after his Obedience perform'd in the Monastery of Kyrieleyson happily departed this Life Jerusalem and our Lord's Cross was taken by the Sultan and the Saracens
Dissolution the plate and jewels thereof fill'd two great chests each whereof requir'd eight men to carry them out of the Church Monast Angl. vol. 1. p. 18. So that the name of Christ to whom it was dedicated was almost quite laid aside for that of S. Thomas Nor was it so much fam'd for any other thing as the memory and burial of this man tho' it has some other tombs that may deservedly be boasted of particularly Edward Prince of Wales sirnam'd the Black a heroe for his valour in war a downright miracle and Henry 4. that potent King of England But King Henry 8. dispers'd all this wealth that had been so long in gathering and drove out the Monks in lieu whereof this Christ-Church has a Dean Archdeacon 12 Prebendaries and 6 Preachers whose business it is to sow the word of God in the neighbouring places It had another Church below the city to the East which disputed preeminence with this St. Augustine's commonly St. Austen's known by the name of S. Austin's because S. Austin himself and K. Ethelbert by his advice founded it to the honour of S. Peter and S. Paul for a burying place both to the Kings of Kent and the Archbishops for it was not then lawful to bury in Cities it was richly endow'd and the Abbot there had a Mint granted him and the Privilege of coyning money Now as the greatest part of it lyes in its own ruines and the rest is turn'd into a house for the King any one that beholds it may easily apprehend what it has been Austin himself was bury'd in the Porch of it and as Thomas Spot has told us with this Epitaph Inclytus Anglorum praesul pius decus altum Hic Augustinus requiescit corpore sanctus The Kingdom 's honour and the Church's grace Here Austin England's blest Apostle lays But Bede o Tho' Bede may be otherwise very good authority yet here he certainly fails for the title Archiepiscopus occurring in it is a plain evidence that 't is of later date since that title could not be then in the Western Church nor was it allow'd commonly to Metropolitans as Mabillon and others have observ'd till about the ninth age See Stillingfleet 's Origin Britan. p. 21 22. who is better authority assures us that he had over him this much more ancient Inscription HIC REQVIESCIT DOMINVS AVGVSTINVS DOROVERNENSIS ARCHIEPISCOPVS PRIMVS QVI OLIM HVC A BEATO GREGORIO ROMANAE VRBIS PONTIFICE DIRECTVS ET A DEO OPERATIONE MIRACVLORVM SVFFVLTVS ET ETHELBERTHVM REGEM AC GENTEM ILLIVS AB IDOLORVM CVLTV AD FIDEM CHRISTI PERDVXIT ET COMPLETIS IN PACE DIEBVS OFFICII SVI DEFVNCTVS EST SEPTIMO KALENDAS IVNIAS EODEM REGE REGNANTE That is Here resteth S. Augustine the first Archbishop of Canterbury who being formerly dispatch'd hither by the blessed Gregory Bishop of Rome and supported of God by the working of miracles both drew Ethelberht with his kingdom from the worship of Idols to the faith of Christ and also having fulfill'd the days of his Office dy'd on the 7th of the Kalends of June in the same King's reign With him there were bury'd in the same porch the six Archbishops that immediately succeeded and in honour of the whole seven namely Austin Laurentius Mellitus Justus Honorius Deus-dedit and Theodosius were those verses engraven in marble SEPTEM SUNT ANGLI PRIMATES ET PROTOPATRES SEPTEM RECTORES SEPTEM COELOQVE TRIONES SEPTEM CISTERNAE VITAE SEPTEMQVE LVCERNAE ET SEPTEM PALMAE REGNI SEPTEMQVE CORONAE SEPTEM SVNT STELLAE QUAS HAEC TENET AREA CELLAE Seven Patriarchs of England Primates seven Seven Rectors and seven Labourers in heaven Seven Cisterns pure of life seven Lamps of light Seven Palms and of this Realm seven Crowns full bright Seven Stars are here bestow'd in vault below It will not be very material to take notice of another Church near this which as Bede has it was built by the Romans and dedicated to S. Martin and in which before the coming of Austin Bertha of the blood Royal of the Franks and wife of Ethelbert was us'd to have divine Service celebrated according to the Christian Religion As to the Castle which appears on the south-side of the City with it's decay'd bulwarks since it does not seem to be of any great Antiquity I have nothing memorable to say of it but only that it was built by the Normans Of the dignity of the See of Canterbury which was formerly very great I shall only say thus much that as in former ages under the Hierarchy of the Church of Rome the Archbishops of Canterbury were Primates of all England Legates of the Pope and as Pope Urban 2. express'd it as it were Patriarchs of another world so when the Pope's Authority was thrown off it was decreed by a Synod held in the year 1534. that laying aside that title Primate and Metropolitan of all England they should be stil'd Primates and Metropolitans of all England This dignity was lately possess'd by the most reverend Father in God John Whitgift who having consecrated his whole life to God and his utmost endeavours to the service of the Church dy'd in the year 1604. extremely lamented by all good men He was succeeded by Richard Bancroft a man of singular courage and prudence in matters relating to the establishment of the Church Canterbury is 51 degrees 16 minutes in Latitude and 24 degrees 51 minutes in Longitude xx After Stour has gather'd it's waters into one chanel it runs by Hackington Hackington where Lora Countess of Leicester a very honorable Lady in her time quitting the pleasures of the world sequester'd her self from all commerce with it to have her time entire for the service of God At which time Baldwin Archbishop of Canterbury began a Church in this place to the honour of S. Stephen and Thomas of Canterbury but the Authority of the Pope prohibiting it for fear it should tend to the prejudice of the Monks of Canterbury he let his design fall However from that time the place has kept the name of S. Stephens S. Stephens and Sir Roger Manwood Knight Lord chief Baron of the Exchequer a person of great knowledge in our Common Law to whose munificence the poor inhabitants are very much indebted was lately it's greatest ornament nor is his son Sir Peter Manwood Knight of the Bath a less honour to it at this day whom I could not but mention with this respect and deference since he is an encourager of virtue learning and learned men From hence the Stour by Fordich Fordich which in Domesday-book is call'd the little burrough of Forewich famous for it's excellent trouts passes on to Sturemouth 69 Which it hath now forsaken a mile and more yet left and bequeathed his name to it But now by Stoure-mouth runneth a brook which issuing out of S. Eadburgh's Well at Liming where the daughter to K. Ethelbert first of our
nation took the Veil while it seeketh the sea seeth Elham a market town of which I have read nothing but that the manour was the inheritance of Julian Leibourn a Lady of great honour in her time who was mother of Laurence Hastings first Earl of Pembroke of that sirname Inq. 2. E. 3. and after wife to William Clinton Earl of Huntington Then it holdeth his course by divers Villages which thereof receive the addition of Bourn as Bishops-bourn Hawles-bourn Patricks-bourn and Beakes-bourn This Bourn is that river Stoure as Caesar calleth it as I have observ'd travelling lately in these parts which Caesar came unto when he had marched by night almost 12 Italian miles from the sea-coast and where he had the first encounter in his second expedition into Britain with the Britains whom he drave into the woods where they had a place fortified both by nature and men's labour with a number of trees hewen down and plashed to foreclose the entries But yet the Romans forc'd an entry drave them out and thereabout encamped The place of Camp as I hear is near Hardes a place of ancient Gentlemen of that sirname descended from Estengrave Herengod and the Fitz-Bernards where it divides it's waters into two chanels and leaving that name is call'd Wantsume and makes the Isle of Thanet I le 〈◊〉 T●●net on the west and south sides which on other parts is wash'd by the sea Solinus nam'd this Athanaton and in other Copies Thanaton the Britains Inis Ruhin as Asser witnesses possibly for Rhutupin from the City Rhutupium hard by the Saxons Tanet and Tanetland and we Tenet Tene● The soil is all a white chalk very fruitful in corn and grass 't is in length 8 miles and 4 in breadth and was look'd upon formerly to have some six hundred ‖ Wh●●● in 〈◊〉 call'd H●●●●●● c●●●●● ●s 〈◊〉 th●●g●● 〈◊〉 10● 〈◊〉 was in L●tin t●●●ly F●●●● M● 〈◊〉 Ma●● families in it upon which account there is corruptly read in Bede milliarium sexcentorum i.e. 600 miles instead of familiarum sexcentarum 600 families As to what Solinus observes that there are no snakes in this Island and that earth carry'd from hence kills them experience has discover'd it to be an error So that that Etymology 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 from the death of serpents falls to the ground Here was the first landing of the Saxons here they first settl'd by the permission of Vortigern here was their place of refuge and here it was that Guortimer the Britain gave them that bloody defeat when at the Lapis Tituli La●●is ●●tu●● for so Ninnius calls it as we almost in the same sense Stonar and p That it was a haven is plainly prov'd by Mr. Somner from old Records wherein it is written Estanore which ore implies a landing-place in the same sense that it does in Cerdicesore Cymenesore c. But then that destroys the analogy in sense between Lapis tituli and Stonar upon which our Author grounds his conjecture it appears to have been a haven he oblig'd them to make a hasty and disorderly retreat to their Pinnaces or little boats In which place as the same Author tells us he commanded them to bury him because he thought that might curb the insolence of the Saxons like Scipio Africanus who order'd his Tomb to be so contriv'd as to look towards Africa thinking even the sight of it would cast a damp upon the Carthaginians It was also in this Island at Wippedfleete so call'd from Wipped a Saxon slain there that Hengist routed the Britains after they were almost worn out with so many engagements z Many years after Austin landed in this Island to whose blessing the credulous Priests ascrib'd the fruitfulness of it and Gotcelin a Monk gives us this rant Tanet a land happy in it's fruitfulness but most of all happy for it's affording reception to so many guests who brought God along with them or rather to so many citizens of heaven Egbert third King of Kent to appease the Lady Domneua whom he had formerly very much injur'd granted her a fair estate here 596. ●●ter upon which she built a Nunnery for 70 Virgins Mildred was Prioress there who for her sanctity was kalender'd among the Saints The Kings of Kent were very liberal to it especially Withred who to make a judgment of the custom of that age from his Donation to complete his confirmation laid a turf of the ground he gave upon the holy Altar Afterwards this Island was so pester'd with the plundering Danes who by all kinds of cruelty polluted this Monastery of Domneua's that it did not recover it self before the settlement of the Norman Government 70 Here also landed Lewis of France who called in by the tumultuous Barons of England against King John published by their instigation a pretended right to the Crown of England For that whereas King John for his notorious treason against King Richard his brother absent in the Holy Land was by his Peers lawfully condemned and therefore after the death of King Richard the right o● the Crown was devolved to the Q. of Castile sister to the said K. Richard and that she and her heirs had convey'd over their right to the said Lewis and his wife her daughter Also that King John had forfeited his kingdom both by the murder of his Nephew Arthur whereof he was ●ound guilty by his Peers in France and also by subjecting his Kingdoms which were always free to the Pope as much as in him lay contrary to his oath at his Coronation and that without the consent o● the Peers of the Realm c. Which I leave to Historians with the success of his Expedition lest I might seem to digress extraordinarily ●e ●eat 〈◊〉 of 〈◊〉 parts Nor must I here omit the mention of a thing very much to the honour of the inhabitants those especially who live by the roads or harbours of Margat Ramsgate and Brodstear For they are exceeding industrious are as it were Amphibious creatures and get their living both by sea and land they deal in both elements are both fishers and ploughmen both husbandmen and mariners and the self same hand that holds the plough steers the ship likewise According to the several seasons they make nets fish for 〈…〉 Cod Herring and Mackarel go to sea and export their commodities And those very men too dung their ground plough sow harrow reap inne being quick at both employments and thus the course of their Labours runs round And when there happen any shipwracks as there do here now and then for those shallows and ●●●ini shelves so much dreaded by sea-men lye full over against it the Godwin of which in its proper place among the Islands the Brakes the Four-foot the Whitdick c. they are very industrious in their endeavours to save the Lading On the south-side of the mouth of Wantsum which they imagine has chang'd it's
whom those Mortimers that were afterwards Earls of March were descended Of these more in Radnorshire Three miles off there is another neighbouring Castle call'd Richard's-Castle 〈…〉 possessed first by the Sayes then by the Mortimers and afterwards by the Talbots At length by the daughters of J. Talbot the inheritance was divided betwixt Guarin Archdeacon and Matthew Gurnay i Beneath this Castle Nature which no where sports her self more in shewing wonders than in the waters hath brought forth a little Well which is always full of small fish-bones or as others think small frog-bones notwithstanding it is ever now and then emptied and clear'd of them whence 't is commonly call'd Bone-Well 〈◊〉 W●ll And not far off stands Croft-Castle belonging to the famous and very ancient and knightly family of the Crofts k Thence the Wye bends his course to Lemster called also Leonminster and Leonis Monasterium from a Lion that c The Lion is said to have appear'd to King Merwald and that upon this he began to build the Nunnery Lel. Itin. MS. appear'd in a Vision as some have dream'd but by the Britains Lhan-Lieni which signifying a Church of Nuns and it being certain that Merewalch a Mercian King founded here a Church for Nuns which was afterwards a Cell belonging to the Monastery of Reading to seek after another Original of the name what were it else but labouring to no purpose And yet there are some which derive it from Linum Flax the best kind of which grows here But it now glories chiefly in it's Wool in the neighbouring parts round about commonly call'd Lemster Ore which excepting that of Apulia and Tarentum is by all Europe accounted the best 〈…〉 Wool It is also so famous for Wheat and the finest White bread 〈…〉 and 〈◊〉 that Lemster-Bread and Weabley-Ale a town belonging to the noble family of D'Eureux are grown a common Proverb By reason of ●●ese Commodities the markets of Lemster were very much frequented and they of Hereford and Worcester observing it were so invidious that they oblig'd them by virtue of the King's authority to alter their Market-day complaining that the confluence of people thither impaired their markets I have nothing more to add concerning Lemster but that William Breosa Lord of Brecknock when he revolted from King John set it on fire and defac'd it l As for Webley ●●●ey it is seated more within the Country and was the Barony of the Verdons the first of which family ●●cs Ver● Bertram de Verdon came into England with the Normans whose posterity by marriage with one of the heirs of the Laceys of Trim in Ireland were for some time hereditary Constables of Ireland but at last the estate devolved by daughters to the Furnivals Burghersh the Ferrers of Groby Crophull and from the Crophulls by the Ferrars of Chartley to the D'Evereux's Earls of Essex Near neighbours unto Webley but more westward are Huntingdon-Castle formerly belonging to the Bohuns Earls of Hereford and Essex Kinnersley to the ancient house of De-la-bere and Erdsley where the famous and ancient family of the Baskerviles have long inhabited ●●●●le ● G●●●●● which bred in old time so many noted Knights they deduce their original from a Niece of Gunora that most celebrated Norman Lady who long ago flourished in this County and its neighbour Shropshire and held to note so much by the by the Hamlet of Lanton in Capite 〈…〉 3. as of the Honour of Montgomery by the service of giving the King one barbed Arrow as often as he came into those parts to hunt in Cornedon-Chace The Lugg now hastens to the Wye first by Hampton where Rowland Lenthall Master of the Wardrobe to King Hen. 4. who married one of the heirs of Thomas Earl of Arundel built a very fine house which the Coningsbeys a family of note in this tract have for a good while inhabited 〈◊〉 Thence by Marden 〈◊〉 and Southon or Sutton of which Sutton shews some small remains of King Offa's palace infamous for the murder of K. Ethelbert and Marden is noted for the tomb of the said K. Ethelbert who for a long time lay bury'd here in obscurity before he was translated to Hereford m Near the conflux of the Lugg and the Wye eastward a Hill which they call Marcley Hill Marcley-Hill in the year 2 1571. 1575. roused it self up as it were out of a sleep and for three days together shoving its prodigious body forward with a horrible roaring noise A moving Mount●in and overturning all that stood in its way advanced it self to the great astonishment of the beholders to a higher station by that kind of Earthquake I suppose which the Naturalists call Brasmatia n Not far from hence towards the East likewise under Malvern-hills by which the east-side of this County is here bounded stands Ledbury Ledbury upon the river Ledden a town of note which † Walter Mapes calls him Alvodus and says he was the son of Edricus Sylvester Lib. de Nug. Curial 2. cap. 11. Edwin the Saxon a man of great power gave to the Church of Hereford being persuaded that he was cured of the Palsie by the intercession of St. Ethelbert As for the Military works on the neighbour hill I need say nothing of them since in this tract which was the marches and the seat of war first between the Romans and the Britains afterwards between the Britains and the Saxons such Forts and Entrenchments are to be seen in many places o Now the Wye enlarg'd by the influx of the Lugg fetches a more winding compass first by Holme Lacy the seat of the ancient and noble family of Scudamores Scudamore or Escudamor which much advanced it self by matching with an heiress of the House of Ewias in this County and Huntercombe c. elsewhere From hence the Wye runs down between Rosse 3 Made a free Borough by King Hen. 3. noted for Smiths and Wilton Wilton over against it a very ancient Castle of the Greys Baron Grey of Wilton from which family so many famous persons of that sirname have descended It was built as common report goes by Hugh Long-champ But publick records assure us that King John gave Wilton with the Castle to Henry Long-champ and that it fell by marriage to William Fitz-Hugh and likewise not long after in King Edward the first 's time to Reginald Grey Now after the Wye has run a little lower and saluted Goderich Castle Goderich-Castle which King John gave to William Earl Marshal and which was afterwards the principal seat of the Talbots it takes leave of Herefordshire and bends its course to the County of Monmouth p In the declension of the Saxon Government Earls of Hereford Ralph son to Walter Medantin by Goda King Edward the Confessor's sister govern'd this County as an Official Earl But the Normans divested him of this honour and substituted in his
towards the Ocean there were anciently seated the Taizali Some derive this later name from Boves Oxen whereas the ground is fitter to feed sheep whose wooll is highly commended Notwithstanding the Rivers in this Coast every where breed abundance of Salmon yet they never enter into the River Ratra Th● R●ver Ra●ra as Buchanan hath told us Neither let it prove to my disadvantage if I cite his Testimony although his books were prohibited by authority of Parliament in the year 1584. because many passages in them were fit to be dash'd out He there reports also That on the bank of Ratra there is a Cave near Stany 's Castle whose nature seems worth our taking notice of A strange ●●●er The water distilling by drops out of a natural vault is presently turned into pyramidal stones and if people did not take the pains to clear the cave now and then the whole space in a little time would be fill'd up to the top of the vault Now the stone thus made is of a middle nature betwixt Ice and hard stone for it is friable and never arrives to the solidity of Marble It is hardly worth my while to mention the Clayks C●ayks a 〈◊〉 of G●ese a sort of Geese believed by some with great admiration to grow upon trees here in this coast and in other places and when they are ripe to fall down into the sea because neither their nests nor eggs cou'd ever any where be found But those that have seen the ship in which Sir Francis Drake sailed round the world laid up in the river Thames can testifie that little birds breed in the old rotten keels of ships since a great number of such without life and feathers stuck close to the outside of the keel of this ship Yet I should think that the generation of these birds was not from the logs of wood but from the sea term'd by the Poets the Parent of all things a Hector Boetius first spread this errour but that it is such ●ppend 〈◊〉 Librum ● Part 3. ●●atiae Il●●●atae Dr. Sibbalds has largely proved in his Scotia Illustrata only he is now convinced that th●y are not informis m●ssa carnosa as he there c●lls them And a Discourse concerning the late worthy Sir Andrew Balfour to be prefixt to the Catalogue of his Books will in a short time give further light into it A mighty mass likewise of Amber Amber as big as the body of a Horse was not many years since thrown up upon this shore This the learned call Succinum Glessum and Chryso-electrum and Sotacus was of opinion that it was a juice which amongst the Britains distill'd from trees ran into the sea and was there hardned Tacitus had the same sentiments of it in this passage of his I should believe De moribus Germanorum that as there are trees in the secret parts of the east which sweat out frankincense and balm so in the Islands and other countreys of the west there are woods of a more fatty substance which melting by the hot beams of the near-approaching sun run into the sea hard by and being driven by tempestuous weather float to the opposite shores But Serapio and the modern Philosophers will have it to work out of a bituminous sort of earth under the sea and by the sea-side that the waves in stormy weather cast part of it upon the shore and that part of it is devoured by the fish But I have digressed too far and will return into my way hoping my ingenuous confession will purchase me a pardon In the reign of Alexander the 2d Alexander Comin had conferr'd upon him the honour of Earl of Buquhan Earls of Baquhan who married a daughter and one of the heirs of Roger de Quircy Earl of Winchester in England and his grand child by a son brought the same title to Henry Beaumor● her husband For he in the reign of Edw. the 3d sat in the Parliament of England under the name of Earl of Buquhan Afterwards Alexander Stewart son to King Robert the 4th was Earl of this place succeeded by John a younger son of Robert Duke of Albany who being sent for into France with 7000 Auxiliary Scots by the French King Charles the 7th did extraordinary good service against the English and had so great a reputation there that after he had killed Thomas Duke of Clarence K. Henry the 5th's brother at Baugy and got as great a victory over the English as ever was obtained he was made Constable of France But 3 years after when the fortune of the war turned he with other valiant Commanders The valour of the Scots in the Wars of France Archibald Douglas Earl of Wigton and Duke of Tours c. was routed at Vernoil by the English and there slain Whom yet as the Poet said Aeternum memorabit Gallia cives Grata suos titulos quae dedit tumulos Those grateful France shall ever call her own Who owe to her their graves and their renown The French cannot but confess that they owe the preservation of France and recovery of Aquitain by thrusting out the English in the reigns of Charles the 6th and 7th in a great measure to the fidelity and valour of the Scots But afterwards K. James the first out of pity to Geo. of Dunbar whom by authority of Parliament he had before divested of the Earldom of March for his father's crimes gave him the Earldom of Buquhan And not long after James son of James Stewart of Lorn sirnamed the Black Knight 14 Whom he had by Queen Joan sister to the Duke of Somerset and widow to King James I. c. whom he had by Joan of Somerset obtained this honour and left it to his posterity but not long since for default of heirs male it went by a daughter to Douglas a younger brother of the House of Lochlevin Beyond Buchan in the bending back of the shore northwards lies Boen Boen and a Now a Barony in the family of Ogilby Bamff a small Sheriffdom * See the Additions and Ainza a little tract of less consideration as also Rothamy Castle the seat of the Barons of Salton Barons Salton sirnamed b Now Frazer Abernethy Beneath these lies Strath-bolgy Strath-bolgy that is the Valley upon the Bolgy formerly the seat of the Earls of Athol sirnamed from thence but now the chief residence of the Marquess of Huntley c Now from the Marquisate of Huntley rais'd to the Dukedom of Gordon Marquess of Huntley For this title K. James the 6th conferred upon Geo. Gordon Earl of Huntley Lord Gordon and Badzenoth eminent for his ancient nobility and his many followers and dependants Whose ancestors are descended from the Setons and by authority of Parliament took upon them the name of Gordon upon Alexander Seton's marrying the daughter of Sir John Gordon with whom he had a very noble estate and received