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ID	Title	Author	Corrected Date of Publication (TCP Date of Publication)	STC	Words	Pages
A65019	The travels of Sig. Pietro della Valle, a noble Roman, into East-India and Arabia Deserta in which, the several countries, together with the customs, manners, traffique, and rites both religious and civil, of those oriental princes and nations, are faithfully described, in familiar letters to his friend Signior Mario Schipano : whereunto is added a relation of Sir Thomas Roe's Voyage into the East-Indies.; Viaggi. Parte 3. English	Della Valle, Pietro, 1586-1652.; Havers, G. (George); Roe, Thomas, Sir, 1581?-1644.; Terry, Edward, 1590-1660. Relation of Sir Thomas Roe's voyage.	1665 (1665)	Wing V48; ESTC R10032	493,750	487

according to the times of the Moon it often carries away people and sometimes with such violence that an Elephant cannot bear up against it but is swept away by the Water Therefore they wait certain fit hours to pass this foard namely when the Sea is at the lowest Ebb which if I mistake not in all other places of the World is wont to be when the Moon is either rising or setting in the Horizon as on the contrary when the Moon is in the middle of Heaven the Tide uses to be at the highest But in the Gulph of Cambaia I know not upon what reason perhaps because 't is much within the Land and far from the great mass of the Ocean it happens at another different hour yet well known to the Country-people The more cautious wait also the most fitting days in the moneth because at the New Moon and Full Moon the Waters are always greater and higher and without comparison highest and most impetuous of all about the Aequinoxes and Solstices In the quarters of the Moon the Tides are moderate and in other intermediate days lower then the rest So that we being come to this place a few days before the New Moon were come in a good time and likewise in a seasonable hour the Cafila or Caravan having set forth from the City in such a moment as was exactly convenient for ordering matters right for the owners of the Coaches and the others imploy'd in this journey are well instructed of every thing and know what they have to do So being united in a great troop the better to break the stream we pass'd over all that space of five Cos which was moist yet firm ground saving that in four places where we foarded the running-water of the River which nevertheless is salt there the great strength of the Sea overcoming that of the River Of the four streams which we waded the first was inconsiderable the other three came higher then the belly of the Oxen which drew the Coaches into which nevertheless the Water enter'd not because their floar and especially the wheels are very high and you sit according to the manner of the East as upon plain ground without hanging the Legs downwards but keeping them bow'd under you For greater security they hir'd sundry men on foot who held the Coaches on either side stedfast with their hands that so in regard of their lightness they might not float and be carry'd away and also to carry our bundles high on their heads that so the same might not be wetted if the Water should come into the body of the Coaches The men who go on foot in this passage either strip themselves naked covering onely their privities with a little cloth or pulling up their coat which as I said is of plain white linnen and serves both for garment and shirt and also tucking up their breeches made of the same they care not for wetting themselves 'T is certainly an odd thing to behold in this passage which is very much frequented abundance of people go every day in this manner some in Coaches and Charriots others on Horseback and a foot men and also women naked without being shie who sees them a spectacle no doubt sufficiently extravagant This wet passage being over there remain two other Cos but of firm and higher ground which is not overflow'd although it be plain and the Sea-shore to arrive at the City of Cambaia whither we came before dinner-time having travell'd that day in all twelve Cos. And here likewise we went to lodge in the House which belongs to the Dutch Merchants by whom we were receiv'd with great kindness and treated continually with exquisite chear for such was the order of the Commendator concerning us in all places Cambaia is a City indifferently large though most of its greatness consists in Suburbs without the walls which are sufficiently spacious 'T is seated on the Sea-shore in a plain almost in the utmost recess of that great Gulph whereunto it gives name The City that is the inner part without the Suburbs is incompass'd with walls built with plain cortines and round battlements The Houses within are brickt with coverings of Tiles and Cisterns which is the custom in India for provision of Water which falls in such plenty during those three moneths of the great Summer rains In our Countries they would be ordinary Houses but in these parts they are counted good and perhaps the best of the whole Province and they are made shady and cool as the heat of the place requires The City hath no form'd Port because it stands in a low Plain but 't is call'd a Port by reason of the great concourse of Vessels thither from several parts which nevertheless for the most part are Frigots Galeots and other small ones of that make which go either by oar or sail because great ones cannot come near the Land by a great way The people of Cambaia are most part Gentiles and here more then elsewhere their vain superstitions are observed with rigor Wherefore we who came particularly to see these things the same day of our arrival after we had din'd and rested a while caus'd our selves to be conducted to see a famous Hospital of Birds of all sorts which for being sick lame depriv'd of their mates or otherwise needing food and cure are kept and tended there with diligence as also the men who take care of them are maintain'd by the publick alms the Indian Gentiles who with Pythagoras and the ancient Aegyptians the first Authors of this opinion according to Herodotus believe the Transmigration of Souls not onely from Man to Man but also from Man to brute beast conceiving it no less a work of Charity to do good to beasts then to Men. The House of this Hospital is small a little room sufficing for many Birds Yet I saw it full of Birds of all sorts which need tendance as Cocks Hens Pigeons Peacocks Ducks and small Birds which during their being lame or sick or mateless are kept here but being recover'd and in good plight if they be wild they are let go at liberty if domestick they are given to some pious person who keeps them in his House The most curious thing I saw in this place were certain little Mice who being found Orphans without Sire or Dam to tend them were put into this Hospital and a venerable Old Man with a white Beard keeping them in a box amongst Cotton very diligently tended them with his spectacles on his nose giving them milk to eat with a Bird's feather because they were so little that as yet they could eat nothing else and as he told us he intended when they were grown up to let them go free whither they pleas'd From this place we went out of the City to the Sea-side to see a Garden sometimes belonging to the Kings of Guzarat 'T is small adorn'd with the same Trees as that which I saw in Suràt with some also

liberty here that every one may do if he will and be able as much as the King himself Hence generally all live much after a genteel way and they do it securely as well because the King doth not persecute his subjects with false accusations nor deprive them of any thing when he sees them live splendidly and with the appearances of riches as is often done in other Mahometan Countries as because the Indians are inclin'd to these vanities and servants cost very little in regard of the multitude of people and the small charge wherewith the common sort are maintain'd for a simple Servant who is not an Officer commonly in the best houses between wages victuals and clothing stands not in more then three Rupià a moneth amounting to about the value of a Venetian Zecchine or ten shillings sterling Of Slaves there is a numerous company and they live with nothing their clothing is onely white linnen which though fine is bought very cheap and their dyet for the most part is nothing but Rice the ancient food of all the Indians according to Strabo of which they have infinite plenty and a little fish which is found every where in abundance So that every body even of mean fortune keeps a great family and is splendidly attended which is easie enough considering the very small charge as I said and on the other side the very considerable gains of traffick wherein most men are imploy'd and the incomes of the Land through its incredible fruitfulness I dare say unmeasurable Upon this occasion I must not forget that amongst the Indian Men both Mahometans and Pagans agreably to what Strabo testifies they did of old wear onely white linnen more or less fine according to the quality of the persons and the convenience they have of spending which linnen is altogether of Bumbast or Cotton there being no Flax in India and for the most part very fine in comparison of those of our Countries The Garment which they put next to the skin serves both for Coat and Shirt from the girdle upwards being adorn'd upon the breast and hanging down in many folds to the middle of the Leg. Under this Cassack from the girdle downwards they wear a pair of long Drawers of the same Cloth which cover not only their Thighs but legs also to the Feet and 't is a piece of gallantry to have it wrinkled in many folds upon the Legs The naked Feet are no otherwise confin'd but to a slipper and that easie to be pull'd off without the help of the Hand this mode being convenient in regard of the heat of the Country and the frequent use of standing and walking upon Tapistry in their Chambers Lastly the Head with all the hair which the Gentiles as of old they did also by the report of Strabo keep long contrary to the Mahometans who shave it is bound up in a small and very neat Turbant of almost a quadrangular form a little long and flat on the top They who go most gallant use to wear their Turbant only strip'd with silk of several colours upon the white and sometimes with Gold and likewise their girdles wrought of Silk and Gold instead of plain white I was so taken with this Indian dress in regard of its cleanness and easiness and for the goodly shew me-thought it had on hors-back with the Scemiter girt on and the buckler hanging at a shoulder belt besides a broad and short dagger of a very strange shape ty'd with tassell'd strings to the girdle that I caus'd one to be made for my self complete in every point and to carry with me to shew it in Italy The Mahometan Women especially of the Mogholians and Souldiers of other extraneous descents who yet are here esteem'd go clad likewise all in white either plain or wrought with Gold-flowers of which work there are some very goodly and fine pieces Their upper Garment is short more beseeming a Man then a Woman and much of the same shape with those of Men Sometimes they wear a Turbant too upon their heads like Men colour'd and wrought with Gold Sometimes they wear onely fillets either white or red or wrought with Gold and Silver for other colours they little use Likewise their Clothes are oftentimes red of the same rich and fine linnen and their Drawers are also either white or red and oftentimes of sundry sorts of silk-stuff strip'd with all sorts of colours When they go along the City if it be not in close Coaches but on foot or on horse-back they put on white veils wherewith they cover their faces as 't is the custome of all Mahometan Women Yet the Indian Gentile Women commonly use no other colour but red or certain linnen stamp'd with works of sundry colours which they call Cit but all upon red or wherein red is more conspicuous then the rest whence their attire seems onely red at a distance And for the most part they use no garment but wear onely a close Wastecoat the sleeves of which reach not beyond the middle of the Arm the rest whereof to the Hand is cover'd with bracelets of Gold or Silver or Ivory or such other things according to the ability of the persons From the waste downwards they wear a long Coat down to the Foot as I have formerly writ that the Women do in the Province of Moghostan in Persia near Ormùz When they go abroad they cover themselves with a Cloak of the ordinary shape like a sheet which is also us'd by the Mahometan and generally by all Women in the East yet it is of a red colour or else of Cit upon a red ground that is of linnen stamp'd with small works of sundry colours upon red Those that have them adorn themselves with many gold-works and jewels especially their Ears with pendants sufficiently enormous wearing a circle of Gold or Silver at their Ears the diametre whereof is oftentimes above half a span and 't is made of a plate two fingers broad and engraven with sundry works which is a very disproportionate thing The Pagan Women go with their faces uncover'd and are freely seen by every one both at home and a broad Nevertheless they are modest and honor'd much more then the Mahometans and amongst them 't is a certain thing that there is not any publick Courtisan but amongst the Mahometan Women there are infinite who go every day publickly to houses and where they please to play on Musick sing dance and do what else belongs to their profession But of these things enough for this time I came from Persia with a great desire to go to Cambaia in regard of what I had heard of it being told that in that City which is one of the ancientest of India the Pagans are very numerous and above measure observers of their Rites so that I might probably see more remarkable Curiosities there of those Idolaters then elsewhere Sig Alberto Scilling had the same desire so that upon

but ill cut as well as the rest of the figure which for its bigness hath a very great Belly I know not whether through the Artificers fault who seems to have been little skilful or else because the Indians as I have also heard of the people of Sumatra account it a great Beauty and perfection to have a great Belly This figure of Brahma stands upright and at his Feet two other less carv'd figures which as they say are his two Sons Sunnet and Sunnatan On each side of Brahma stand likewise two Statues of Women somewhat less then Brahma himself and they call them his Wives Savetri and Gavetri On the left side of this narrow Temple stand two other figures of the same bigness being two naked Men with long Beards whom they pretend to have been two religious persons I know not whether Doctors or Disciples of Brahma or Pythagoras one is call'd Chescuèr the other Ciavan de Chescuèr On the same side downwards are many other Idolets as one with an Elephants Head and divers others formerly by me mention'd All which Idols are serv'd ador'd perfum'd offer'd to and wash'd every day as for delight for the Indians account it delight to wash often by the Brachmans who assist at their service with much diligence I must not forget that the Banians say this Town Naghera was the King's Seat and principal City anciently the Head of the whole Kingdom of Cambaia and that the City now properly call'd Cambaia and rais'd to greatness by the ruine of this old is a modern thing whence I have sometimes suspected that the Indian Character call'd Naghra us'd by the learned was denominated from this City wherein it was anciently us'd but 't is onely a Conjecture and I have learnt by long and much experience that in the derivation and interpretation of Names especially of Places there is no trusting to the resemblance of Words because by reason of the diversity of Languages and the casual Conformity of Words which signifie things sufficiently different according to the variety of Places gross errors are easily admitted Nagher in the Indian Language signifies a Great City Coming from Naghra I saw some naked and besmeared Men of deportment almost like the incinerated Gioghi who were of a Race of Indians accounted by themselves the most sordid and vile Race of all in India because they eat every thing even the uncleannest Animals as Rats and the like whence they are call'd in Persian Hhalal-chor which signifies a Man that accounts it lawful to eat any thing the Indians call them Der and all people in general abhor not onely to converse with but even to touch them Concerning Religion I have heard nothing particular of them but believe them Gentiles as the rest or perhaps Atheists who may possibly hold every thing for lawful as well in believing as in eating They are all sufficiently poor and live for the most part by begging or exercising the most sordid Trades in the Common-wealth which others disdain to meddle with but they either because their Rite teaches them so or necessity inforces them are not at all shie of March the fifth We visited the King's Garden again and many other Gardens where we tasted divers fruits and beheld several Flowers of India unknown in Europe amongst the rest one very odoriferous which I kept in a Paper which they call Ciompa Without the City we saw the Saltpits and also the Field by the Sea-side where the Indians are wont to burn the bodies of their dead which may be known by the reliques of many fires and pieces of bones not wholly burnt which are seen scatter'd about the same The next Morning early we return'd to this Field and saw several Bodies burnt and particularly observ'd the Funeral of one Woman from the beginning to the end They carry the Corps wrapt in a cloth of Cit of a red colour for the most part and much in use among the Indians for other purposes They carry it not upon a Biere as we do but ty'd to and hanging down like a sack from a staff lay'd cross two Men's shoulders They make the funeral pile of wood lay'd together in form of a bed of equal length and breadth and sufficient to receive the Body upon which beginning then to lament with a loud voice they lay the carkass naked and supine with the Face and Feet towards the Sea which I believe is likewise observ'd where the Sea is not towards Rivers Lakes and Cisterns the Indians having a particular devotion to the Water nor do I know that herein they have respect to any Region of Heaven They cover the privities with a piece of wood anoint the Hands and Feet put a coal of fire in the Mouth and then all things being prepar'd they set fire first at the Throat and afterwards to the whole pile round about beginning first at the Head but with their Faces turn'd another way as Virgil saith our Ancestors did Then sprinkle Water on the ground round about the pile which they continually stir up with staves in their Hands and blow with the motion of a cloth to the end the flame may not spread but burn more speedily The body being consum'd by degrees they reduce the fire into a round form and when all is burnt they leave the ashes and sometimes a piece of a bone not wholly consum'd there in the same place The cloth wherein the body was wrapt before it was committed to the pile they give in Charity to some poor person present Such as have where withall are burnt with odoriferous and precious wood in which the rich spend much but they that cannot reach so high use ordinary wood Children under two years of age are not burnt but buried as we saw some in the same Field Nor let the Reader wonder that in the same day and hour we hapned to see so many dead persons for besides that Cambaia is a large City and very populous as all the Cities and Lands of India are the Gentiles are wont to perform this Ceremony of the dead onely in the Morning at a set hour and in that place so that all that dye in the whole City during the twenty four hours of the day are brought to that place at the same hour The same day we had News of a Jesuit's coming to Cambaia from Goa with a Cafila of Portugal Frigats which was going for Agrà Whereupon in the Evening Sig Alberto Scilling and I in company of a Venetian Merchant went to visit him at the house where he lodged and having told him that we were to go the next day for Suràt I desir'd him to give a letter to the Jesuits of Daman and Bassaim where I hop'd to touch upon the way to Goa which he very courteously condescending to do we went again the next Morning to see him before we departed March the seventh In the Morning we visited the Father Jesuit who was not a Priest but one of those whom

I stood to see this shew in the same street of Saint Paul in the House of one whom they call King of the Islands of Maldiva or Maladiva which are an innumerable company of small Islands almost all united together lying in a long square form towards the West not far from the Coast of India of which Islands one of this Man's Ancestors was really King but being driven out of his Dominion by his own people fled to the Portugals and turn'd Christian with hopes of recovering his Kingdom by their help Yet the Portugals never attempted any thing in his behalf and so he and his descendents remain depriv'd of the Kingdom enjoying onely the naked Title which the Portugals being now ally'd to him still give him and because many Merchants Ships come from those Islands to trade in the Ports of the Portugals they force the said Ships to pay a small matter of Tribute to him as their lawful Sovereign of which though the Governours of Ports to whom upon necessity he must entrust purloin above half from him nevertheless he gets at this day by it about three thousand Crowns yearly and therewith supports himself The like Fates have befallen many other Princes in India who hoping in the Portugals have found themselves deluded Wherein Reason of State is but ill observ'd by the Portugals because by this proceeding they have discourag'd all others from having confidence in them whereas had they assisted and protected them as they ought and might easily and with small charge have done upon sundry fair occasions they would by this time have got the love of all India and themselves would by the strength and help of their Friends undoubtedly have become more potent as also without comparison more fear'd by their Enemies Iune the nine and twentieth This year the Moors began their Ramadhan according to the Rules of my Calculation Iuly the five and twentieth being the Feast of Saint Iames the Protector of Spain was solemnis'd with the same gallantry of Cariers and Dresses as are above describ'd saving that the Vice-Roy heard Mass in the Church of St. Iames. In the Evening I went with Sig Ruy Gomez Boraccio a Priest and Brother of Sig Antonio Baroccio to the Church of Saint Iames which stands somewhat distant without the City upon the edge of the Island towards the main Land of Adil-Sciàh which is on the other side of a little River or Arm of the Sea For which reason the Island is in this as well as many other dangerous places fortifi'd with strong walls and here there is a Gate upon the pass which is almost full of people going and coming from the main Land and is call'd by the Indians Benastarni by which name some of our Historians mention it in their writings concerning these parts as Osorius Maffaeus c. which Gate as likewise many others which are upon divers places of passage about the Island is guarded continually with Souldiers commanded by a Captain who hath the care thereof and for whom there is built a fine House upon the walls of the Island which in this place are very high forming a kind of Bastion or rather a Cavaliero or mount for Ordnance not very well design'd but sufficiently strong wherein are kept pieces of Artillery for defence of the place We went to visit the said Captain who was then Sig Manoel Pereira de la Gerda and from the high Balconies of his House and the Bastion we enjoy'd the goodly prospect of the Fields round about both of the Island and the Continent being discernable to a great distance The Captain entertain'd us with the Musick of his three Daughters who sung and play'd very well after the Portugal manner upon the Lute after which we return'd home About the Church of Saint Iames are some few habitations in form of a little Town which is also call'd Santiago and the way from thence to the City is a very fine walk the Country being all green and the way-sides beset with Indian Nut-trees which the Portugals call Palms and their fruit Cocco the Gardens and Houses of Pleasure on either side contributing to the delightfulness thereof being full of sundry fruit-trees unknown to us as also because in Winter-time the very walls of the Gardens are all green with moss and other herbs growing there which indeed is one of the pleasantest sights that I have seen in my days and the rather because 't is natural and without artifice The same happens I believe not in this Island onely but in all the Region round about In the field adjoyning to the City near the ruines of a deserted building once intended for a Church but never finish'd is a work of the Gentiles sometimes Lords of this Country namely one of the greatest Wells that ever I beheld round and about twenty of my Paces in Diametre and very deep it hath Parapets or Walls breast-high round about with two Gates at one of which is a double pair of stairs leading two ways to the bottom to fetch water when it is very low Iuly the six and twentieth I went out of the City to a place of pleasure in the Island where was a Church of Saint Anna to which there was a great concourse of people because it was her Festival This Church stands very low built amongst many Country dwellings partly of the Islanders who live there and partly of the Portugals who have Houses of Pleasure there to spend a moneth for recreation The place is very delightful amongst Palmetoes and Groves of other Trees and the way leading to it is extreamly pleasant all cover'd with green After I had heard Mass here Sig Giovanni da Costa de Menecas a Friend of mine whom I found there carry'd me to dine with him at the House of a Vicar or Parish-Priest of another Church not far distant and of small Building which they call Santa Maria di Loreto where we spent the whole day in conversation with the said Vicar and other Friends At night because it rain'd I caus'd my self to be carry'd home in one of those Carriages which the Portugals call Rete being nothing else but a net of cords ty'd at the head and feet and hanging down from a great Indian Cane in which Net which is of the length of a Man and so wide that opening in the middle for the two ends are ty'd fast to the Cane 't is capable of one person a Man lyes along very conveniently with a cushion under his head although somewhat crooked to wit with the feet and head advanc'd towards the Ligatures and the middle part of the body more pendulous under the Cane which is carry'd upon the shoulders of two men before and two behind if the person be light or the way short two Men onely bear it one before and the other behind These Nets are different from the Palanchini and the Andòr for in these from the Cane hang not nets but litters like little beds upon

but requires a boat to pass it On the Southern bank on which we came were four Cottages where we took up our station that Night enjoying the cool the shadow and the sight of a very goodly Wood which cloaths the River sides with green but above all where we lodg'd on either side the way were such large and goodly Trees such spacious places underneath for shade and the place so opacous by the thickness of the boughs on high that indeed I never saw in my dayes a fairer natural Grove amongst other Trees there was abundance of Bambù or very large Indian Canes twin'd about to the top with prety Herbs The journey of this day was three Cos or a League and half This River they say is one of those which goes to Garsopà Vitulà Sinay we found not here because he was gone before November the fourth We began in the Morning to pass our Goods over the River but because there was but one and that a small boat it was ten hours after noon before we had got all of them over then following our journey through somewhat oblique and uneven wayes like the former we found many Trees of Myrobalanes such as are brought into Italy preserv'd in Sugar It hath leaves much like that which produces Gum Arabick by me formerly describ'd different onely in this that in that of Gum Arabick the branch consisting of many leaves is much less round or oval and seems one leaf made up of many other long and narrow ones But in this Myrobalane Tree the branch is sufficiently long and the small leaves composing it in two rows on either side are somewhat larger nor is the Myrobalane Tree prickly like that of Gum Arabick The fruit is round hard of a yellowish green smooth shining of little pulp but a great stone almost round and furrow'd with six circular lines Being raw it hath an acid and astringent but in my judgment no pleasant taste but preserv'd becomes good They say it is refrigerative and purges Choler Having rested many times upon the way and in all travell'd two Leagues we ended this day's journey in the onely considerable and populous Town we had hitherto met which is call'd Ahineli We lodg'd in the Porches of a Temple of Idols which had two Porches one within the other without both low after their manner with very large Pent-houses strengthened with great Posts the Pavement rais'd high and dung'd but not lately the walls white sprinkled in the corners and ends with a sort of Rose-Oyle ill colour'd for so is their custom always in their Religious Structures The Idol was call'd Virenà Deurù the latter of which words signifies God or rather Lord being attributed also to Men of quality he stood at the upper end in a dark place with Candles before him of what figure he was I could not see well by reason of the darkness but they told me 't was a Man In the body of the Temple were many other wooden Statues of less Idols plac'd about in several places as 't were for ornament some of which were figures of their Gods others not of Gods but for ornament of several shapes Many of these figures represented dishonest actions One was of a Woman lifting up her cloths before and shewing that which Modesty oblig'd her to cover Another was of a Man and a Woman kissing the Man holding his Hand on the Womans Breasts Another had a Man and a Woman naked with their Hands at one another's shameful parts those of the Man being of excessive greatness and sundry such representations fit indeed for such a Temple But these were not figures of Gods Of Gods there was a Brahmà with five Heads and three Arms on a side sitting astride a Peacock which in their Language they call Nau Brahmà that is the Peacock of Brahmà another God was call'd Naraina with four Arms on a side Another with an Elephant's Head and two Hands to an Arm whom they call Ganesù and others Bacra-tundo that is Round-mouth for one and the same God hath divers names Another call'd Fuenà had the shape of a Man holding a naked Sword in his right Hand and a Buckler in his left Another had a Man under his Feet upon whose Head he trampled and so many others of various sorts I observ'd that all these Idols had the same cover of the Head high with many picks or peaks all ending in one long peak a strange and majestical Diadem not us'd now in India it might have been of wreath'd Linnen or Gold or other solid matter wherefore I imagine that it is a very ancient covering at this day dis-us'd unless haply it be some ensign of Divinity which I rather think because I remember to have seen at Rome almost the same Diadems upon the Heads of some Aegyptian Statues and if I forget not they were call'd Tutuli and the Idols of Tutulati as amongst us the Diadems of the Saints or as some make it three Crowns one upon another like the Regno or Pontifical Crown of our Pope In the middle of the Temple was another darker inclosure wherein stood fastned in the ground certain slender staves with others cross them in two rows making a little Steccato or Palisado of a long form and these were to hang Lamps and Tapers upon at more solemn dayes and hours A Barber whom we had with us an Indian Gentile but a Native of the Country of Adil-Sciàh who was nam'd Deugi and understood something of the Portugal-Tongue could not well tell me the names of those figures and Idols of the Temple when I ask'd him because he said they were not things of his Country where they had other things and Gods and that every Country had particular ones of their own Within the circuit of this Temple but on one side of the Court as you go in were three other little Cells separate from the body of the great Temple two of which were empty perhaps not yet well accommodated but in the other was an Idol of an Ox which our Barber knew and said was also of his Country and that they call it Basuanà it was half lying or rather sitting upon the floor with the Head erect like which Ox or Basuanà stood another in the upper part of the Temple before the Tribunal of the Idol Virenà as if it stood there for his guard In the Evening the Ministers of the Temple ring a kind of Bell or Shell which was within the Temple striking it with a staff and it made a tolerable sound as if it had been a good Bell at which sound some from without assembling together they begin to sound within the Temple very loud two Drums and two Pipes or Flutes of metal after which many Tapers being lighted particularly at the Steccato above-mention'd and put in order a little quilt with a Canopy of rich Stuff which is alwayes ready in the Temple for carrying the Idol they put the principal Idol Virenà

before but into one of the King's Gardens which for this purpose stood open for every body and is nothing but a great field planted confusedly with shady and fruit-Trees Sugar Canes and other Garden plants Hither almost the whole City flock'd Men and Women and all the companies of the flower'd Virgins who putting themselves into circles here and there danc'd and sung yet their dancing was nothing else but an easie walking round their snappers alwayes sounding onely sometimes they would stretch forth their legs and now and then cowre down as if they were going to sit one constantly singing and the rest repeating the word Colè Colè There wanted not other Donne ballatrici Dancing-women who exceeded the former in skill and dexterity But in conclusion they gather'd into several companies to supper with the other Women that accompany'd them so did the Men also some with their Wives and some alone of which there wanted not who invited us not to eat with them for they communicate not with strangers at the Table but to take some of their fare which we thank'd them for but accepted not being delighted onely to see them feast so together dispers'd in several places of the Garden this being the night that the Fast ended The same night a Post from Goa brought the Ambassador a Letter from the Vice-Roy with another for Vitulà Sinay and a third from the Captain of Onòr The Ambassador imparted his intelligence to none but forbad the Post to let it be known that he had brought Letters whence I conceiv'd that the News was not good otherwise it would have been presently publish'd onely I heard some obscure talk of the Malabarians but I would not inquire further into the matter as that which did not belong to me especially amongst the Portugals who are very close and reserv'd towards strangers November the tenth I saw passing along the street a Nephew of Venk-tapà Naieka his Sisters Son a handsome youth and fair for that Country he was one of those that aspire to the succession of this State and was now returning from the fields without the Town whither he uses to go every Morning He is call'd Sedà-Siva Naieka and was attended with a great number of Souldiers both Horse and Foot marching before him and behind with many Cavaliers and Captains of quality himself riding alone with great gravity He had before him Drums Cornets and every sort of their barbarous instruments Moreover both in the Front and in the Rear of the Cavalcade were I know not whether for magnificence or for guard several Elephants carrying their guides upon their backs and amongst them was also carried his Palanchino or Litter November the eleventh The Ambassador went again to Audience to present to Venk-tapà Naieka the Letter writ to him in the King of Spain's Name and declare what that King requir'd of him He went alone without any of us or of the Portugals his Companions either not willing that we should be present at the debating of business or because he went in a Palanchino and had his two Horses led before him but there were neither Palanchino's nor Horses enow in the House for the rest of us With those that came to fetch him came also a publick Dancing-woman who perform'd a prety piece of Agility in his presence for standing upon one foot when the Drums and other instruments sounded with the other she swiftly turn'd round in the Air a large Iron Ring about a span in Diametre without letting it fall off her great Toe and at the same time with one hand toss'd two Cymbals or brass balls catching one in her Hand whilst the other was aloft and so alternately and very nimbly without ever letting them fall which indeed was great dexterity to be imploy'd at the same time with the foot and the hand standing firm all the while on the other foot without support and yet attending to the Musick and this for a good space together during which an old Man with a white beard and bald head who brought her stood behind her crying all the while Ahùd Ahùd Ahùd which in their Language signifies as much as Good Good Good The Ambassador return'd quickly from Audience but made not a word of any thing The King frequently sent him things to eat particularly fruits out of season to wit brought to him from far distant places amongst which we had Ziacche which I take to be the same with Zátte which is a kind of Gourd a fruit very rare at this time and also Indian Melons which how good soever are worth nothing at any time the Climate not being for such fruits November the twelfth I took the height of the Sun at Ikkeri and found the Meridian Altitude 31. degrees He was now in the 19th degree of Scorpio and consequently declin'd from the Aequinoctial towards the South 17. gr 29′ 23″ which substracted from the 31. degrees in which I found the Sun there remain 13. gr 30′ 37″ and such is the Elevation of the Pole at Ikkeri which must be also as many degrees to wit 13. gr 30′ 37″ distant from the Aequinoctial towards the North. At dinner the Ambassador told us that the King of Spain's Letter which he had presented the day before to Venk-tapà Naieka concern'd not any business but was onely of complement and particularly to give him much thanks for having of late years refus'd to sell Pepper to the English and Dutch who had been at his Court to buy it and also for the good Amity he held with the Portugals which he desir'd might encrease every day That of the affairs of Banghel or any others he said nothing referring all to the Vice-Roy and the Embassador whom the Vice-Roy had sent to him Wherewith Venk-tapà Naieka was very well pleas'd and he had reason for during the present State of the Portugals affairs I certainly think they will not speak a word to him of Banghel nor of any thing else that may be disgustful to him The same day the Ambassador had been at Court being invited to see solemn Wrastling at the Palace We did not accompany him for want of Horses and Palanchinoes but at night he told us Vitulà Sinay ask'd much for me wishing I had been present at this Wrastling which was exercis'd by Persons very stout and expert therein because he had heard that I writ down what I saw remarkable However Caravaglio Montegro and my self not going thither went out of Ikkeri half a League Northwards to see another new City which Venk-tapà hath begun to build there 'T is call'd Saghèr and is already prety well inhabited with Houses all made of Earth after their manner The Palace is finish'd and Venk-tapà frequently goes to it as also a Temple built upon a great Artificial Lake a House for his Nephews and other Grandees with all conveniencies thereunto particularly great Stalls for Elephants of which he keeps here above eighty we saw many of them here some for

which lies on the left side of the River as you go against the stream Having landed and going towards the Bazàr to get a Lodging in some House we beheld the Queen coming alone in the same way without any other Woman on foot accompany'd onely with four or six foot-Souldiers before her all which were quite naked after their manner saving that they had a cloth over their shame and another like a sheet worn cross the shoulders like a belt each of them had a Sword in his hand or at most a Sword and Buckler there were also as many behind her of the same sort one of which carry'd over her a very ordinary Umbrella made of Palm-leavs Her Complexion was as black as that of à natural Aethiopian she was corpulent and gross but not heavy for she seem'd to walk nimbly enough her Age may be about forty years although the Portugals had describ'd her to me much elder She was cloth'd or rather girded at the waste with a plain piece of thick white Cotton and bare-foot which is the custom of the Indian-Gentile Women both high and low in the house and abroad and of Men too the most and the most ordinary go unshod some of the more grave wear Sandals or Slippers very few use whole Shoos covering all the Foot From the waste upwards the Queen was naked saving that she had a cloth ty'd round about her Head and hanging a little down upon her Breast and Shoulders In brief her aspect and habit represented rather a dirty Kitchin-wench or Laundress then a delicate and noble Queen whereupon I said within my self Behold by whom are routed in India the Armies of the King of Spain which in Europe is so great a matter Yet the Queen shew'd her quality much more in speaking then by her presence for her voice was very graceful in respect of her Person and she spoke like a prudent and judicious Woman They had told me that she had no teeth and therefore was wont to go with half her Face cover'd yet I could not discover any such defect in her either by my Eye or by my Ear and I rather believe that this covering the Mouth or half the Face as she sometimes doth is agreeable to the modest custom which I know to be common to almost all Women in the East I will not omit that though she were so corpulent as I have mention'd yet she seems not deform'd but I imagine she was handsome in her Youth and indeed the report is that she hath been a brave Lady though rather of a rough then a delicate handsomeness As soon as we saw her coming we stood still lay'd down our baggage upon the ground and went on one side to leave her the way to pass Which she taking notice of and of my strange habit presently ask'd Whether there was any among us that could speak the Language Whereupon my Brachman Narsù step'd forth and answer'd Yes and I after I had saluted her according to our manner went near to speak to her she standing still in the way with all her people to give us Audience She ask'd who I was being already inform'd as one of her Souldiers told me by a Portugal who was come about his businesses before me from Mangalòr to Manel that I was come thither to see her I caus'd my Interpreter to tell her that I was Un Cavaliero Ponentino A Gentleman of the West who came from very farr Countries and because other Europaeans than Portugals were not usually seen in her Dominions I caus'd her to be told that I was not a Portugal but a Roman specifying too that I was not of the Turks of Constantinople who in all the East are styl'd and known by the Name of Rumi but a Christian of Rome where is the See of the Pope who is the Head of the Christians That it was almost ten years since my first coming from home and wandring about the world having seen divers Countries and Courts of great Princes and that being mov'd by the fame of her worth which had long ago arriv'd at my Ears I was come into this place purposely to see her and offer her my service She ask'd What Countries and Courts of Princes I had seen I gave her a brief account of all and she hearing the Great Turk the Persian the Moghol and Venk-tapà Naieka nam'd ask'd What then I came to see in these Woods of hers Intimating that her State was not worth seeing after so many other great things as I said I had seen I reply'd to her that it was enough for me to see her Person which I knew to be of great worth for which purpose alone I had taken the pains to come thither and accounted the same very well imploy'd After some courteous words of thanks she ask'd me If any sickness or other disaster had hapned to me in so remote and strange Countries How I could have done being alone without any to take care of me a tender Affection and incident to the compassionate nature of Women I answer'd that in every place I went into I had God with me and that I trusted in him She ask'd me Whether I left my Country upon any disgust the death of any kindred or beloved person and therefore wander'd so about the world for in India and all the East some are wont to do so upon discontents either of Love or for the death of some dear persons or for other unfortunate accidents and if Gentiles they become Gioghies if Mahometans Dervises and Abdales all which are a sort of vagabonds or despisers of the world going almost naked onely with a skin upon their Shoulders and a sttaff in their Hands through divers Countries like our Pilgrims living upon Alms little caring what befalls them and leading a Life suitable to the bad disposition of their hearts I conceal'd my first misadventures and told the Queen that I left not my Country upon any such cause but onely out of a desire to see divers Countries and customs and to learn many things which are learnt by travelling the World men who had seen and convers'd with many several Nations being much esteem'd in our parts That indeed for some time since upon the death of my Wife whom I lov'd much though I were not in habit yet in mind I was more then a Gioghi and little car'd what could betide me in the World She ask'd me What my design was now and whither I directed my way I answer'd that I thought of returning to my Country if it should please God to give me life to arrive there Many other questions she ask'd which I do not now remember talking with me standing a good while to all which I answer'd the best I could At length she bid me go and lodg in some house and afterwards she would talk with me again at more convenience Whereupon I took my leave and she proceeded on her way and as I was afterwards told she went about

which are very thick tall and handsome affording shadow to the streets all the way which are broad long green and very delightful A little distant from the Bazar is a great Artificial Lake or Cistern surrounded as their custom is with stone stairs they call it Tanle Nave Nagher The Moors for the most part dwell near the Bazar towards the River which passes not far off and is navigable seven or eight leagues upwards Here also the Mahometans have their Meschita's hot Baths which the Gentiles use not because they wash themselves publickly in their Cisterns and places of Sepulture a Dogana or Custom-house and lastly a Divan or Court of Justice and what-ever belongs to their Government Most of the Gentiles who are the greatest part live in Houses remote from the Bazar amongst Gardens and Trees where in several places they have sundry Temples of their Idols as one principal which I saw of Zagadanba a Goddess who they say is the same with Leksemi Wife of Visenu another good one dedicated to Amrut Suer who they say is the same with Mahadeu and is figur'd by a round stone like him of Cambaia Other Temples I saw of Neraiena and others of their Idols but the greatest and chiefest of all both for esteem and devotion stands remote from the Bazar upon the way to Ciaul of the Portugals and is dedicated to Rami or Ramisuer it adjoynes to a great Artificial Lake or Cistern each side whereof is about 73 of my paces environ'd after the usual fashion with banks and stairs of stone leading down to the surface of the water there are also round about it very broad walks shadow'd with high thick and goodly Trees which make the place opacous and very lovely In the front of the Temple next the Cistern under a Cupolet supported by four Pilasters is the statue of an Ox or Bull sitting with all the four Legs gather'd under it being the same that I saw in Canara call'd Basuana but here Nandi they told me it was a Male and different from Gaietry Vasca which was the Wife of Rama The head and breast of this figure looks towards the Gate of the Temple the back and tayl towards the Cistern and the Gentiles who come to visit this Temple first go down to wash their Face Hands and feet in the Cistern and then come to kiss and touch with their Head in token of Reverence or at least with their Hands reverently bow'd down after their manner the tayle of the said Nandi after which they put off their Pantofles and so enter the Temple bare-foot to pray and worship after their manner of which I have else-where spoken Some go round about the Temple before they enter beginning from the right side and coming about to the left as I said before they did also at Canara in their Processions and Ceremonies Others offer Fruits and other things to the Idols or else strew grains of Rice before them in Oblation The like they do to the Statue of the Ox Nandi and also to a Sprig of Basil planted there upon a square Pedestal of earth on one side of the little Chappel of Nandi There stand also upon the Lake and other-where about the Temple many other little Chappels inclos'd with walls having several Idols in them In one behind the Temple stands the Idol of the Scimione Haniment in his usual and ridiculous Figure of an Ape and sitting like a Man and indeed 't is strange that these wretched people are not asham'd to worship such things This Haniment was one of those Scimioni or Apes which helped Rama to recover his Wife for which service they merited Divine Honours and therefore 't was reason he should here have a place near the Temple of Rama which resembles the subjoyned Plat-form 1. The Street or High-way 2. The Gate leading to the Cistern 3. The place about the same 4. Gardens and Groves about the said Street 5. The Cistern or Artificial Lake 6. Stairs about it 7. Another Gate leading out of the Street or High-way to the Temple 8. The open space where the Temple stands enclos'd towards the Street with walls and else-where with Gardens 9. The Statue of Bue Nandi under his Cupolet upon a pavement some-what rais'd from the ground 10. A Pedestal with a sprig of Basil. 11. The Entrance of the Temple 12. A little Porch of the same 13. The Temple-Gate 14. The Temple empty within saving that it hath a few wooden figures of Idolets or other things 15. A wall'd Inclosure or Penetral within the Temple which I saw not wherein is the Statue of Rama 16. The little Chappel of the Idol Haniment 17. Little Chappels of other Idols to which certain Gioghi who stand there to beg Alms sometimes repair 18. Other little Houses perhaps belonging to the Ministers of the Temple 19. A great Tree with a round bank of Earth about it where oftentimes some Gioghi sit reading and contemplating after their manner of which sort of Trees many are planted in this inclos'd space I was one day at this Temple whither I often went for Recreation and I saw many Men and Women come to worship and wash themselves in the Lake some of the Women were young and handsome yet shun'd not being seen by any one that pass'd by There came also many Mainati that is Washers both Men and Women to wash their clothes here and in brief I took much pleasure and sometimes dined and spent the whole day here enjoying the shadow of the Trees and the coolness of the Lake It would be too long to speak here of the Idols of these Gentiles how many and what they are perhaps I shall one day communicate something to the world about the principal of them in another Language December the seventh My Friend Sig Antonio Baracho arrived at Ciaul as I expected he came by the Vice-Roy's Order to make provision for the Galeoons which were sending to Ormuz being seven well armed Ships daily expected to arrive there December the ninth Sig Antonio having dispatched his business at Ciaul and taken Order for my imbarquing in the above mentiond Vessel that was going to Bassora whereof one Antonio Giovanni was Captain and his much business which he had to do for the Armada at Bassaim requiring haste in the Evening he departed in the same Almadia or Shallop wherein he came Our separation was not without tears and much regret on both sides but I was something comforted by his promise of visiting me at Rome as soon as he could get leave to go to Portugal about his other Affairs December the fifteenth The Galeoons of the Armada of Goa arrived at Ciaul they were but six and said that two more were coming after them and that they had Orders in case they understood the Ships of the Enemies were already departed from Surat to Ormuz as indeed they were not to go after them because it would be a vain thing to think of