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A31753 The travels of Sir John Chardin into Persia and the East-Indies the first volume, containing the author's voyage from Paris to Ispahan : to which is added, The coronation of this present King of Persia, Solyman the Third. Chardin, John, Sir, 1643-1713. 1686 (1686) Wing C2043; ESTC R12885 459,130 540

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and let my Servant ride to look after ' em The Lay-Brother was also a Horseback and it rain'd as hard as it could pour after two days insomuch that the Fryer had like to have been drown'd about a League from the Castle in a deep Ditch that overflow'd its Banks into which his Horse fell and out of which with much ado we recover'd him half dead I shall not relate the Hardships I endur'd both that and the following days as being constrain'd to march afoot in a rainy season through the Woods full of Water and Mud where I went for the most part up to the Knees only in a word that 't was impossible for any Person to endure more then we did For my own part I was quite spent All that I had left was a remainder of Courage and Resolution to do and suffer whatever befel me to save those Goods that were entrusted to my Care In the Evening we arriv'd at Anarghia wet to the very Skin Anarghia being six Leagues from the Castle of Sabatar The 12th I was to have Embark'd but was prevented by the News that was spread about of several Barks of the Mingrelians and Abca's that were Cruising upon the Coasts of Mingrelia Which was very true for they had taken several Barks of the Country and one among the rest wherein I was concern'd Yet the unspeakable trouble which this delay gave me did not proceed so much from its keeping me in continual Fears and Dangers as that it seem'd to threaten me that I should never get rid of ' em The 19th Father Zampi had Intelligence that the Day before they had forc'd open the Church-Doors taken away all that was in the Church had open'd the Sepulcher and carry'd all that one of the Theatins who was left to look after the House had hid in the Tomb and that there was nothing left standing but the Wall This News put me into a terrible fright considering I had left above Seven Thousand Pistols buri'd in the Church Upon which I dispatch'd away a Messenger to my Comrade thinking to have found him at the Castle but he was already gone to the Theatins Residence to know what course we should take to repair so great a Misfortune of which he had Notice as soon as my self But he wrote me word That Thanks be to GOD they had not so much as touch'd our Money having found it in the same place where we had buri'd it VVhich good News wonderfully reviv'd my Spirits looking upon so great a Favour of the Almighty as a sign of his Attonement so that I went to encourage the Turks whose Feluke I had hir'd to set Sail with all speed The 27th I departed from Anarghia my Feluke being a Vessel of good Burthen wherein there were near Twenty Persons the one half Slaves the rest Turks which I the rather permitted the Master to take in that we might be the better able to defend our selves against the Rovers that infested the Coasts After an Hours Sailing we got into the Main Sea For the Langur which we left is very rapid and runs with a furious Stream and besides he must be a skilful Pilot that carries a laden Vessel down that River by reason of the many Flats where they stick upon the Sands I staid all Day-long near the Shoar at the request of the Master of the Shallop who expected two Slaves to be brought him that Evening While I tarry'd at Anarghia I was invited to two Christnings whither I went to observe the manner of the Mingrelian Baptism and found that Father Zampi had been very exact in his Relation For the Ceremony was no otherwise then thus perform'd in a Neighbours House adjoyning to the Lodging where I lay He sent for the Priest about Ten a Clock in the Morning who was no sooner come but he went into the Buttry where they kept the Wine and sate himself down upon a Bench without any other then his ordinary Habit and then fell a reading in a Book that was half torn about the bigness of a New Testament in Octavo Not that the Child was brought to him when he began to read for the Father and Godfather did not bring him till a quarter of an Hour after and then appear'd a little Boy of about five Years of Age at what time the Godfather brought also a little Searring Candle and three Grains of Incense The Candle the Godfather likewise lighted and fix'd it to the Door of the Cellar where though it was burnt out before the Child was Baptiz'd they did not light up another and as for the three Grains of Incense they were strew'd upon a few Embers and smoak'd away All this while the Priest read on very fast and with a low Voice and in such a careless manner as if he never minded what he did The Father and Godfather went to and agen all the time and so did the Child that did nothing but eat At length after an Hours reading there was a Bucket of warm Water got ready into which after the Priest had pour'd about a Spoonful of Oyl of Walnuts he bid the Godfather undress the Child which was done and the Child put naked into the Bucket where as he stood upon his Feet the Godfather wash'd his Body all over and when he had well wash'd him the Priest took out of a Leather Pouch that hung at his Girdle as much Myrone or Oyl of Unction as came to the weight of a Pea and gave it to the Godfather who Anointed with it almost all the parts of the Childs Body as the top of the Head the Ears Forehead Nose Cheeks Chin Shoulders Elbows Back Belly Knees and Feet All which time the Priest read on still nor did he give over till the Godfather had again drest the Child Which being done the Father brought in Wine Bread and a piece of boyl'd Pork and first gave the Child to eat then presented the Priest the Godfather the Guests and all the House and then they all sate down to the Table nor was there hardly one that was not drunk before he went I have also seen Mass perform'd in the same place which is done with the same Carelessness and Irreverence and altogether as has been related in a Treatise of the Mingrelian Religion And once it was my hap to see one very pleasantly interrupted For as I was flying with one of the Theatins we pass'd along before a Church where they were saying Mass At what time the Priest that said it understanding that we enquir'd the way of the People that stood at the Door Stay a little cry'd he from the Altar I 'll come and tell ye Immediately after he came to the Door muttering his Mass between his Teeth and after he had ask'd us whence we came and whither we went he shew'd us the way and so return'd to the Altar again The 29th betimes i' the Morning we put to Sea the weather being clear and fair and then we
more deformed then theirs They carry a Rope several Fadoms long at their Girdles to tye together such People or Cattel which they Rob from their Neighbours or take in War The Nobles wear Leathern Girdles Four Fingers broad full of Silver Studs at which they hang a Knife a Whetstone and a Steel to strike Fire together with Three Leathern Purses the one full of Salt the other of Pepper and the other with Pack-Needles Lesser-Needles and Thread The Poor People go almost naked such is their Misery not to be parallell'd as not having any thing to cover their Nakedness but a pityful sorry Felt like to the Chlamys of the Ancients into which they thrust their Heads and turn which way they please as the Wind sits for it covers but one side of their Bodies and falls down no lower than their Knees There are some that are par'd very thin to keep out the Water which are not so heavy as the common sort that are ready to weigh a Man down especially when thorough wet He that has a Shirt and a pair of pitiful Drawers thinks himself Rich for almost all of 'em go Bare-Foot and such of the Colchians as pretend to Shooes have nothing but a piece of a Bufalo's Hide and that untann'd too which piece of raw Hide is lac'd about their Feet with a Thong of the same so that for all these sort of Sandals their Feet are as durty as if they went Bare-Foot Almost all the Mingrelians both Men and Women even the most noble and wealthy never have but one Shirt and one pair of Breeches at a time which last 'em at least a Year In all which time they never wash 'em above Three times only Once or Twice a VVeek they shake 'em over the Fire for the Vermin to drop off with which they are mightily haunted and indeed I cannot say I ever saw any thing so Nasty and Loathsome VVhich is the reason that the Mingrelian Ladies carry a very bad scent about ' em I always accoasted 'em extreamly taken with their Beauty but I had not been a Minute in their Company but the Rank VVhiffs from their Skins quite stifl'd all my Amorous Thoughts The Grandees Eat sitting upon Carpets after the manner of the Eastern People Their Napkin is only a piece of painted Cloath or Leather and sometimes they only wipe upon the Boards The Ordinary sort sit upon a Form with another Form before 'em of the same height which serves for a Table All their Dishes are of Wood to their very Drinking Cups only among the People of Quality you shall see a little Silver Plate Moreover it is the custome in this Savage Country that the whole Family without distinction Males and Females Eat all together The King with all his Train to his very Grooms The Queen her Women Maids Servants and all to the very Lacqueys that attend her When it does not rain they Dine in the open Courts where they rank themselves either in a Circle or side by side one below another according to their Quality If it be cold weather they make great rowsing Fires in the Court where they eat for Wood-Firing costs nothing in that Country as I have said already When they are sate down Four Men if the Family be great bring upon their Shoulders a large Kettle full of Gom or Grain boyl'd as I have already related of which most usually a Poor beggarly half-Naked Rascal serves upon a VVooden Plate to every one his proportion which weighs full Three Pound Afterwards two other Servants somewhat but not much better equipp'd bring in another Kettle full of Grain more white than the other which is only for the better sort Upon Worky-Days they never give but only Gom to the Servants the Masters being serv'd with Pulse or dry'd Fish roasted or else Flesh On Holy-Days or when they make entertainments they kill either a Hog or an Ox or a Cow especially if they have no Venson As soon as they have cut the Throat of the Beast they dress it and set it upon the Fire without Salt or Sauce in the great Kettle where they boil their Past VVhen it has boyl'd a while they take it from the Fire throw away the Broth and serve it in half-raw without any seasoning The Master of the House has always standing before him a large Portion of this Vittles They set before him likewise all the Pulse all the Bread and all the Tame and VVild-Fowl VVho presently Carves for his Guests and his Friends their share They feed themselves with their Fingers and that so nastily that nothing but extremity of hunger could provoke the meanest of our Europeans to Eat at the Tables of those Barbarians VVhen they have begun to Eat there are two Persons that serve the Drink round the Table Among the common sort this Office is perform'd by Women or Maids 'T is the same Incivility among them to call for Wine as to refuse it For they must stay till it is presented and take it when 't is giv'n ' em They never give less then a Pint at a Draught which at their Ordinary Meals is thrice done but at Feasts and Banquets the Guests and the Gentry Drink on till they are Drunk The Mingrelians and their Neighbours are very Great Drinkers far exceeding the Germans and all the Northern People They never mix their Wine but Drink it pure both Men and Women But when they are once Heated they think their Pints too little and therefore Drink out of their Dishes and out of the Pitcher it self While I lay near Cotatis I lodg'd at a Gentleman's House who was one of the stoutest Drinkers in all the Country and while I stay'd at his House he made a Feast for Three of his Friends at what time they were all Four so set upon Carowsing that from Ten in the Morning till Ten in the Evening they Drank out a whole Charge of Wine that weigh'd Three Hunderd Pound Weight It is also a custom among these People practiz'd by all the World to rise from the Table and empty as often as they have occasion and when they return they sit down without ever Washing their Hands They provoke their Guests and their Friends as much as they can to Drink it being chiefly at the Table that they observe Civility and are free of their Complements Their discourses between Man and Man are only Stories of their Robberies their Wars Duels Murders and Selling of Slaves Neither is their discourse any better among the VVomen for they are pleas'd with all sorts of Love-Tales let 'em be never so Obscene or never so Lascivious and their Children learn their filthy VVords and Phrases assoon as they can speak insomuch that by that time they come to be Ten Years of Age all their discourse with the VVomen is the most beastly that a Brothel-House can utter And certainly the Education of their Children in Mingrelia is the most Vicious and Lewd in the VVorld Their
acknowledge and authorize it to verifie the Seals and attest that it was real For that acknowledgment belongs to him as Chief of the Law and in all spiritual matters Having taken the Letter and laid it on his head out of respect he read it and looked upon the Seals and then returning just before the King he fell upon his Knees and made three bows to the ground by that humble posture declaring his approbation of the Letter and that the advancement of the Prince to the Empire was legal While the Spiritual Judge was thus employed the General desired to know the Kings Resolution whether he would be Crowned by his own name or assume any other before his Coronation Who made answer that tho he altered his Condition he would not change his Name but retain that of Sephiè which was given him in his Infancy The General returned the Kings pleasure to the Ancient of the Law who was risen from the Kings Feet where he had left the Letter At the same instant therefore the two Lords the Ancient of the Law upon his Right and the General upon his Left conducted the Prince to the Chair of Gold so often mentioned before placed in the middle of the Hall and then the Ancient of the Law besought him to take his Place Which he did according to the Rules of the Law wherein he had been instructed with his face toward the Kaabba or Oratory of Mecca Then the Ancient of the Law seating himself upon his Heels which is the Posture used by the Mahumetans when they pray to God or when they are in the presence of any Persons of high Dignity some few paces distant from his Majesty discovered the Diadem the Sword and Dagger and then said a Prayer to God which he began with a short Confession of their Faith and concluded with a Benediction upon the Royal Ornaments appointed for the Ceremony of the Coronation The Prayer lasted not above a quarter of an Hour at what time rising up he took the Sword and girded it on upon his Majesties Left side and hung the Dagger upon his Right Then having made a sign to the General to take off the Bonnet from the Kings head he put on the Taagh or Diadem uttering at the same instant certain Verses of the Alcoran proper for the purpose which he did before when he girt on the Sword and Dagger This done he ended and gave place to Mirza-Refia the great and learned Doctor already mentioned who presented himself to perform the Kotbè which word in the Original signifies a Prayer But by this Prayer is meant a Prayer in form of a Harangue and perhaps they might give it the name of an Oration By an ancient Custom time out of mind these Prayers were always to be divided into four Heads to last half an hour and to contain always the same Form Only the Orator had the liberty to alter the Terms and the Stile and to give a new flight to his thoughts The first Head is called Hamde-Koda or the Praise of God because the Orator here speaks of nothing else But of the Thanks which we always ought to render him for his Graces and Favours since there is not that moment wherein we do not continually receive some new mark of his Kindness That his Blessings being like the Sources of great Rivers that flow without ceasing and never stop their Course for which reason the blessings of God are called by the Divines Flowing Blessings our Thanks therefore ought to be continual and always running That whatever his Supreme Majesty exposes to the Eyes of Men whether it were in times past or now at this present bears the Characters and imprints the Seals of his affection toward us and testifies that whatever he acts without himself he does it all for the greatest good of Mankind in regard that Infinite Being is the best of all that do best These are their Expressions and very near the sense of the first Head which lasts some half a quarter of an hour The second Head is called Nead Berpegamberhou ve douasde Imaam The Praise Remembrance and Acknowledgment of the Prophet and of the twelve Descendants and Lieutenants And therefore it contains nothing more than the Acclamations and Benedictions which they give to persons which their superstition has rendred Venerable among them That you are the Fourteenth whom God has chosen pure and unblemished That he has made them successively Lords of all Mortals That the Faith is not entire if together with the Confession of the Divinity we do not likewise acknowledge the sending of these Fourteen to be lawful upon whom the Heavenly Lights are shed down to give light to wandring souls and to shew to all the way of Truth Therefore we are obliged to glorifie them to celebrate their Praises to wish for their perpetual Welfare and Peace and to their Family on Earth all manner of prosperity that their names may be exalted above all Created Beings That Curses may be heaped upon their Enemies And that all the Men in the Universe may be lead away and become dust at their Door With several other Wishes of the same nature which I have rendered as much word for word as is possible The third Head is that Royalty is of divine Institution Seltemet ez Hokkam Koda that is that Royalty is of Divine Institution Upon which they observe That since God created the World he has always governed his People by Prophets and in their stead by Kings whom he has established their Successours That Kings are the Zel-Alla or the shadow of God which is that which we call the Image of God But the word Image is such an Expression as they abhor as Idolatrous a Term which they dare not make use of believing at the same time that they likened God to any Image they supposed him at the same time to be Corporeal They added withal That as at all times we are obliged to serve God and to obey him not only by the light and understanding which Heaven has infused into us at our Birth but by the Revelations which we have had from his Prophets who have declared unto us his Will we are in the same manner and by the same Revelation bound to obey Kings as being the Valiè or Sovereign Lieutenants of God Gaanit-chin sitting in his place on Earth and that we ought to submit to their Commands without examining whether they be just or no. In regard that in submitting to their Commands we submit at the same time to the Holy Books in all things tho they seem contrary to our Reason and Understanding by which we shewed blind obedience which God exacts from men sometimes trying our readiness to submit to him by Commands that seem unjust to render out submission more acceptable and of greater value The fourth and last Point is Douhaa-Preray padchaè A Prayer for the King Which contains a great number of Supplications for the long life of the