the Rest and consequently with the Work which is parallel to the Rest for should you set the edge of the Chissel parallel to the Work it might run too fast into the Work and dawk it Therefore you must set the Chissel in such a position that the lower Corner or near the lower Corner of the edge may cut lightly upon the Work But this position is best described by a Figure which to that purpose I have inserted in Plate 14. at O where you may perceive in or near what position the Chissel must be set to cut the Work and how the edge of the Chissel a b lying aslant the Work and the further Corner of the edge of the Chissel b being somewhat mounted as the Work comes about the Bottom or near the Bottom of the edge of the Chissel is only capable to cut a narrow Shaving off the Work and just in this manner you must keep the Chissel steddy bearing upon the Work as the Pole comes down and withdrawing it from the Work as the Pole Springs up as you were taught to use the Gouge and at the same time sliding it forwards from one end of the Work to the other till it be wrought down all the way to its true Diameter between the points of the Callippers For then a straight Ruler applied to your Work the outside of your proposes Cilinder will be formed Only the ends must be cut down square to the length Therefore open the points of your Compasses to the distance of eight Inches on your Rule and prick that distance hard off upon your Work that the points of your Compasses may leave visible marks by placing one point as near one end as you can to leave Stuff enough to cut straight down all the way that is to cut it square down at right Angles with the outside of the Work Which to do you must hold the Handle of the Flat Chissel in your Right hand as before and clasp the Blade of it in your Left and lay one of the thin sides of it upon the Rest so that the edge may stand upright or very near upright against the Work Then sink your Right hand somewhat below the Level of the Rest that the lower Corner of the edge of the Chissel may mount and being thrust steddy against the Work just in the mark one Point of the Compasses made Tread the Treddle and cut a pretty deep Circle into the Stuff But you must have a care you do not direct the cutting Corner of the Chissel inwards but rather outwards left you make the end hollow instead of Flat For if you do take off too little at first you may by degrees cut it down to a Flat afterwards As you cut deeper into the Stuff you must turn the Flat of the Chissel and with it cut down the Shoulder just at the end on the outside the mark for else that may hinder the Corner of the Edge of the Chissel for coming at the Work Note that if you hold not the edge of the Chissel truly before the Work but direct it inwards and if you hold it not very steddy and have a good guidance of it the quick coming about of the Work may draw the edge of the Chissel into it inwards and run a dawk on Cilinder like the Grooves of a Screw and so spoil your Work For being once wrought to the true size you cannot afterwards take any more off to cleanse it c. The other end must be cut down as this § 14. Of Turning Flat Boards IF your Board be thick enough you may boar a round Hole in the middle of it and Turn a Mandrel with a Pin a very little Tapering to fit hard and stiff into the round Hole And if the Hole and Pin be proportionable in size to the weight of the Board the Pin will carry it about But you must be very careful the Hole be boared exactly straight through the middle and not inclining on either side the Board more to any part of the Verge than to another but that the middle of the Hole be exactly the Center of the Board the whole thickness through This Pin-Mandrel is described Numb 11. § 6. and Plate 13. If your Board be not thick enough to be fastned upon a Pin-Mandrel or that your Work will not admit of an Hole to be bored through the middle of it you may use the Flat Mandrel described Plate 13. F 2. And then you must with your Compasses find the Center on the backside of the Round Board with several proffers if need require till you have found it and prick there an Hole for a mark Then open the points of your Compasses to about the thickness of a Shilling wider than the Semidiameter of the Flat Mandrel and with the points of your Compasses at that distance describe a Circle on the backside of the Board to be Turned by placing one Foot in the prick mark and turning about the other Foot By this Circle you may pitch the Center of the Board exactly upon the Center of the Flat Mandrel For the points of the Compasses being opened about the thickness of a Shilling wider than the Semidiameter of the Flat Mandrel will when you have pitcht the Center of the Board on the Center of the Mandrel place the outer Verge of the Mandrel the thickness of a Shilling round about within the Circle described on the backside of the Board And when it is thus pitcht you may by laying the Board flat down knock upon the Rowler end of the Mandrel and drive the Pegs in the flat of the Mandrel into the Board and so hold it steddy upon the Mandrel Then find the Center on the Foreside of the Board also as you were taught to find the Center on the backside and put your Board and Mandrel upon the Pikes of the Puppets and screw them hard up as you have been taught before Sometimes Turners use this Flat Mandrel without Pegs and then they chalk the Flat side of it very well and clap the backside of the Board to it which will if the Board to be Turned be not too heavy but be well screwed up between the Pikes keep the Board steddy from slipping from its set-position till you work it If in going about of your Work you find it Wabble that is that one side of the Flat incline either to the Right or Left Hand you must with soft Blows of an Hammer or other Tool at hand set it to right and then again screw it hard up For so often as you thus strike upon the Verge to set the Board true you force the Steel point of the Pike more or less according to the softness of the Wood towards that side of the Verge you strike upon and therefore you may perceive a reason for screwing up the Pike so oft as you knock upon the outer Verge of the Board But we will now suppose the Board well pitcht and fastned on the Mandrel
square strong Worm D the Nut or Screw Box hath also a square Worm and is brazed into the round Box. E the Spring must be made of good Steel and very well temper'd Where note that the wider the two ends of the Spring stand asunder the wider it throws the Chaps of the Vice open F the Foot must be straight and therefore will be the stronger to bear good heavy Blows upon the work screwed in the Chaps of the Vice that it neither bow or tremble Of the Hand-Vice OF the Hand-Vice are two Sorts one is called the Bread Chapt Hand-Vice the other the Squar Nos'd Hand-Vice The Office of the Hand-Vice is to hold small work in that may require often turning about it is held in the left hand and each part of your work turned upwards successively that you have occasion to file with your right The Square-nos'd Hand-Vice is seldom used but for filing small Globulous Work as the Heads of Pins that round off towards the Edges c. And that because the Chaps do not stand shouldering in the way but that the flat of the File may the better come at the Edges Their Chaps must be cut as the Vice aforesaid and well tempered Of the Plyers PLyers are of two Sorts Flat Nos'd and Round Nos'd Their Office is to hold and fasten upon all small work and to fit it in its place The Round Nos'd Plyers are used for turning or bowing Wyer or small Plate into a circular Form The Chaps of the Flat Nos'd Plyers must also be cut and temper'd as the Chaps of the Vice A the Nose B the Chaps C the Joint DD the Handles Of the Drill and Drill-Bow DRills are used for the making such Holes as Punches will not conveniently serve for as a piece of work that hath already its Shape and must have an hole or more made in it Hore the force of a Punch will set your work out of order and shape because it will both batter the Surface of the Iron and stretch its Sides out The shank of a Key also or some such long Hole the Punch cannot strike because the Shank is not forged with substance sufficient but the Drill tho' your work be filed and polish'd never batters or stretches it but cuts a ture round Hole just in the point you first place it You must have several Sizes of Drills according as your work may require The shape in Fig. 8. is enough to shew the Fashion of it but it must be made of good Steel and well tempered A the Point AB the Shank C the Drill-barrel Where note that the bigger the Drill-barrel is the easier it runs about but less swift And as you must be provided with several Drills so you may sometimes require more than one Drill-bow or at least several Drill-strings the strongest Strings for the largest Drills and the smallest Strings for the smallest Drills But you must remember that whether you use a small or strong String you keep your Drill-bow straining your String pretty stiff or lese your String will not carry your Barrel briskly about But your String and Bow must both be accommodated to the Size of your Drill and if both or either be too strong they will break or bend your Drill or if too weak they will not carry about the Barrel as aforesaid The Drill-Plate or Breast-plate is only a piece of flat Iron fixt upon a flat Board which Iron hath an hole punched a little way into it to set the blunt end of the Shank of the Drill in when you drill a hole Workmen instead of it many times use the Hammer into which they prick a hole a little way on the side of it and so set the Hammer against their Breast Of the Screw-Plate and its Taps THE Screw-Plate is a Plate of Steel well temper'd with several holes in it each less than other and in those Holes are Threds groved inwards into which Groves fit the respective Taps that belong to them The Taps that belong to them are commonly made tapering towards the Point as Fig. 7. shews But these tapering Taps will not serve for some sorts of works as I shall shew in its proper place These are the most Essential Tools used in the Black-Smith's Trade but some accidental work may require some accidental Tools which as they may fall in I shall give you an account of in convenient place Of Forging in general I Think it needless to tell you how to make your Fire or blow it because they are both but Labourer's work nor how little or big it need to be for your own Reason will by the Size of your work teach you that only let me tell you the Phrase Smith's use for Make the Fire is Blow up the Fire or sometimes Blow up the Coals When it is burning with the Iron in it you must with the Slice clap the Coals upon the out-side close together to keep the heat in the body of the Fire and as oft as you find the Fire begin to break out clap them close again and with the Washer dipt in Water wet the outside of the Fire to damp the out-side as well to save Coals as to strike the force of the Fire into the in-side that your work may heat the sooner But you ought oft to draw your work a little way out of the Fire to see how it takes its Heat and quickly thrust it in again if it be not hot enough For each purpose your work is designed to ought to have a proper Heat suitable to that purpose as I shall shew you in the several Heats of Iron For if it be too cold it will not feel the weight of the Hammer as Smiths say when it will not batter under the Hammer and if it be too hot it will Red-sear that is break or crack under the Hammer while it is working between hot and cold Of the several Heats Smiths take of their Iron THere are several degrees of Heats Smiths take of their Iron each according to the purpose of their work As first a Blood-red Heat Secondly a White Flame Heat Thirdly a Sparkling or Welding Heat The Blood-red Heat is used when Iron hath already its form and size as sometimes square Bars and Iron Plates c. have but may want a little Hammering to smooth it Use then the Face of your Hand-hammer and with light flat Blows hammer down the irregular Risings into the Body of your Iron till it be smooth enough for the File And note that it behoves a good Workman to Hammer his Work as true as he can for one quarter of an hour spent at the Forge may save him an hours work at the Vice The Flame or White Heat is used when your Iron hath not its Form or Size but must be forged into both and then you must take a piece of Iron thick enough and with the Pen of your Hammer or sometimes according to the size of your work use two or three
Holes as will most conveniently for height fit the breadth of the Board Then the Fence of of the Plow is set to that distance off the Iron-Plate of the Plow that you intend the Groove shall lie off the edge of the Board As if you would have the Groove lie half an Inch off the Board then the two staves must with the Mallet be knocked through the Mortesses in the stock till the Fence stands half an Inch off the Iron Plate and if the staves are fitted stiff enough in the Mortess of the stock it will keep at that distance whilst you plow the Groove For the Fence lying lower than the Iron of the Plane when you set the Iron of the Plow upon the edge of the Board will lie flat against the farther edge of the Board and so keep the Iron of the Plow all the length of the Board at the same distance from the edge of the Board that the Iron of the Plow hath from the Fence Therefore your Plow being thus fitted plow the Groove as you work with other Planes only as you laid hold on the stock of other Planes when you use them now you must lay hold of the two staves and their sholders and so thrust your Plow forwards till your Groove be made to your depth If the Staves go not stiff enough in the Mortess of the Stock you must stiffen them by knocking a little wooden wedge between the Staves and their Mortesses § 9. Of Molding-Planes There are several other Planes in use amongst Joyners called Molding-planes as the Round the Hollow the Ogee the Snipes-Bill the Rabbet-plane the Grooving-plane c. And of these they have several sorts viz. from Half a quarter of an Inch to an Inch and a Half They are used as other Planes are In the Planeing of Stuff you must use Planes whose Irons have different Mountings and that according to the hardness or softness of the Wood you are to work upon For if the wood be hard the Iron must stand more upright than it need do if the wood be soft For soft Wood as Deal Pear-tree Maple c. The Iron is set to make an Angle of 45 degrees with the Sole of the Plane But if it be very hard wood you are to Plain upon as Box Ebony Lignum Vitae c. It is set to 80 degrees and sometimes quite upright so that these hard Woods are indeed more properly said to be Scraped than Plained But before you come to use your Planes you must know how to grind and whet them for they are not so fitted when they are bought but every Workman accommodates them to his purpose as if it be an hard wood he is to work on he grinds his Basil to a more obtuse Angle than he would do for soft Wood. The Basil or Angle an Iron is ground to to work on soft Wood is about 12 Degrees and for hard wood about 18 or 20 Degrees Where note That the more accute or thinner the Basil is the better and smoother the Iron cuts and the more obtuse and thicker the stronger the Edge is to work upon hard Work § 10. Of Grinding and Whetting the Iron and other Edge-Tools When you grind your Iron place your two Thumbs under the Iron and your Fingers of both hands upon the Iron and so clap down your Iron to the stone holding it to that Angle with the Stone you intend the Basil shall have keep the Iron in this posture without either mounting or sinking its ends all the while the the Stone is turning about And when you lift the Iron off the Stone to see if it be ground to your mind if it be not you must be sure you place the Iron again in the same position on the Stone it had before for else you will make a double Basil on your Iron But if it be true set on the Stone and steddily kept to that Position your Basil will be Hollow and the smaller your Grind-stone is the hollower it will be You may know when it is well Ground by the evenness and entireness of the edge all the way Having ground your Iron you must smoothen the edge finer with a good fine Whet-stone Thus hold the edge of your Iron upwards in your left hand and your Whet-stone in your right and having first spit upon your Stone to wet it apply it to the Basil of your Iron in such a Position that it may bear upon the whole breadth of the Basil and so working the Stone over the Basil you will quickly wear the courser grating of the Grind-stone off the edge on that side Then turn the flat side of the Iron and apply the Stone flat to it till you have worn off the course gratings of the Grind-stone on that side too Joyners often grind their Irons upon a flat Grind-stone also And then they hold the Iron also in their hands in the same posture as if it were to be ground on the Round Grind-stone yet then instead of keeping the Iron on one place of the Stone they thrust it hard straight forwards almost the length of the Stone and draw it lightlier straight back again keeping it all the while at the same Angle with the superficies of the Stone and then smoothen its edge with the Whet-stone as if it had been ground upon the round Grind-stone And this they do so often till they have rubbed the hollowness of the Basil to a flat and then they grind it again upon the round Grind-stone This Order and Manner of Setting Grinding and Smoothing a Basil and Edge is also used in all other Edge-Tools Joyners use § 10. Of Chissels of several Sorts And first of Formers Formers marked C1 C3 are of several sizes They are called Formers because they are used before the Paring-Chissel even as the Fore-Plane is used before the Smoothing-Plane The Stuff you are to work upon being first scribed as I shall shew in its proper place you must set the edge of the Former a little without the scribed stroak with its Basil outwards that it may break and sholder off the Chips from your Work as the Edge cuts it And you must bear the Helve of the Former a little inwards over the Stuff that the Former do not at first cut straight down but a little outwards For should you venter to cut straight down at the first you might with a negligent or unluckly knock with the Mallet drive the edge of the Former under the work and so cut before you are aware more off the under side than the upper side of your work and so perchance spoil it Therefore you may make several cuttings to cut it straight down by little and little till your work is made ready for the Paring-Chissel When it is used the Helve of it is knockt upon with a Mallet to drive the edge into the Stuff § 11. Of the Paring-Chissel The Paring-Chissel marked C2 must have a very fine and smooth edge Its
Bevil marked F having its Tongue movable upon a Center may be set to strike Angles of any greater or lesser numbers of Degrees according as you open the Tongue wider from or shut it closer to the Handle It is used as the Square and the Miter and will perform the Offices of them both though it be not purposely made for either but for the striking such Bevil lines as one part of your work must be cut away to to make it join with another part of your work For Example We will propose to make a Frame for a Picture Looking-Glass c. containing eight straight Sides You may quickly perceive that all the ends of these eight sides must be cut to Bevils and what Bevils they must be you will find if you describe upon a smooth flat Board a Circle of any bigness but the larger the better Divide this Circle into eight equal parts and from every point draw a Line to the Center Draw also straight lines from every point to its next point Then lay the inside of the Handle of your Bevil exactly upon any one of these straight lines so as the Angle made by the inside of the Handle and the inside of the Tongue lie exactly at the very Angle made by this straight line and the Semi-Diametral line proceeding from the Center and move the Tongue nearer or farther off the Handle till the inside of the Tongue and the inside of the Handle lie exactly upon those two lines so shall your Bevil be set Then having fitted your Pieces to your Seantling Stick your Pricker as near the outward Corner of your Pieces as your stuff will bear and apply the inside of your handle also to the outer sides of your Pieces and so as the inside of the Tongue may be drawn home to the Pricker For then lines drawn on those Pieces by the inside of the Tongue shall be the lines the Pieces must be cut in to make these eight Pieces join evenly together by the sides of each other 's Bevil Then with the Strike-block smooth the ends of the Bevils as you were taught in the Section of the Strike-Block If you have a Board on the Back-side of this Frame you may Glew the backsides of these Pieces piece by piece to the Board but first you must fit them to an exact compliance of every Bevil with its Match and when they are so fitted drive two Nails close to the outside of every piece but drive not the Nails deep into the Board because when the Frame is set and Glewed or otherwise fastned you must draw the Nails out again For these Nails are only intended to serve for Fences to set and sit each piece into its proper place before the whole Frame is fastned together And should you not thus Fence them though by your Eye you might judge you fitted the Bevils exactly yet one piece being never so little out of its due position would drive the next piece more out and that the next till at the last the last piece would not join but either be too short or too long or stand too much out or in or else too open or too close on the out or inside But if you have no Board on the backside you must when you Saw the Bevilling Angles upon the square ends of pieces not sawn quite through the depth of one end of every piece but about half way through the depth or thickness and then with your Chissel either split or else pare the upper side of the square end flat away to the Bevil and so leave part of of the square end of your piece to lap under the piece is joined to For Example In Fig. 3. Plate 5. ab is the square end of the piece and bc is the Bevil you work the piece to Therefore you must work away so much of the thickness of the square end as is comprehended between a and c so that you will see the Triangle abc is to be wrought away half way down the thickness of the Stuff and so will the Triangle abc be left for the other half thickness of the Stuff But that end of the piece mark'd 1 which joins to the piece mark'd 2 must upon its Bevil-stroak be sawn quite off and its underside must have the same Triangle wrought into it just so fit as to receive the Triangle in piece 2 and just so deep as that when the Triangle on piece 2 is fitted into the Triangle in piece 1 the Superficies of both the pieces may be even with one another And thus you may lap the ends of every piece into one another These Triangles at the ends of the pieces you may Glew into one another but if you think Glewing alone not strong enough you may Pierce an hole near the inner edge of the Frame because the Triangle hath there most substance of stuff and afterwards Pin it as you are taught to Pin the Rail and Stile together in Sect. 17. This way of Lapping over is sometimes used also for square Miters or other Angular Frames § 20. Of the Miter-Box There is another way used by Joyners that make many Frames to save themselves the labour of Drawing or striking out of Squares Miters and several Bevils upon their Stuff And this is with a Tool called a Mitter-Box described in Plate 5. Fig. 2. It is composed of two pieces of Wood of an Inch thick each as A the upright piece B the Bottom piece The Upright piece is nailed upright fast upon the Bottom-Piece And this Upright-piece hath on its upper side the Miter Lines struck with the Miter square as de on the left hand and gh on the right hand on these two Miter lines the edge of the Saw is set and a kerf made straight down the upright piece as from d e on the left hand to f and from gh on the right hand to i. In like manner any other Bevil is struck upon the upper side of the upright piece with the Bevil as kl on the left hand and no on the right On these two Bevil lines the edge of the Saw is set and a kerf made straight down the upright piece as from k to lm and from g h to i. You may make as many Bevils as you please on the upright piece of the Miter Box Bevils to join Frames of either five six seven eight sides c. and the manner to make them to any number of sides was in part taught in the last Section For as there you were directed to divide the Circle into eight equal parts because eight was the number of sides we proposed to make that Frame consist of So if for any number of sides you divide the Circle into the same equal parts and work as you were there directed you may find what Bevil the Pieces must have that make a Frame that consists of any number of sides So also for Sawing of any Batten or other small pieces square Strike at the
Plate 4. with the handle towards their left hand and the end of the Saw to the right then with a three-square File they begin at the left hand end leaning harder upon the side of the file on the right hand than on that side to the left hand so that they file the upperside of the Tooth of the Saw a-slope towards the right hand and the underside of the Tooth a little a-slope towards the left or almost down-right Having filed one Tooth thus all the rest must be so filed Then with the Saw-wrest marked O. in Plate 4. they set the Teeth of the Saw that is they put one of the Notches marked a a a of the Wrest between the first two Teeth on the Blade of the Saw and then turn the Handle Horizontally a little about upon the Notch towards the end of the Saw and that at once turns the first Tooth somewhat towards you and the second Tooth from you Then skipping two Tooth they again put one of the notches of the Wrest between the third and fourth Teeth on the Blade of the Saw and then as before turn the Handle a little about upon the notch towards the end of the Saw and that turns the third Tooth somewhat towards you and the Fourth somewhat from you Thus you must skip two Teeth at a time and turn the Wrest till all the Teeth of the Saw are set This Setting of the Teeth of the Saw as Workmen call it is to make the Kerf wide enough for the Back to follow the edge and is Set Ranker for soft course cheap Stuff than for hard fine and costly Stuff for the Ranker the Tooth is set the more Stuff is wasted in the Kerf and besides if the Stuff be hard it will require greater labour to tear away a great deal of hard Stuff than it will do to tear away but a little of the same Stuff The Pit-Saw is Set so Rank for course stuff as to make a Kerf of almost a quarter of an Inch but for fine and costly stuff they set it finer to save Stuff The Whip-Saw is set somewhat finer than the Pit-Saw the Hand-Saw and the Compass-Saw finer than the Whip-Saw But the Tennant-Saw Frame-saw and the Bow-Saw c. are set fine and have their Teeth but very little turned over the sides of their Blades So that a Kerf made by them is seldom above half a half quarter of an Inch. The reason why the Teeth are filed to an Angle pointing towards the end of the Saw and not towards the handle of the Saw or directly straight between the handle and end of the Saw is Because the Saw is designed to cut only in its progess forwards Man having in that activity more strength to rid and Command of his hands to guide his Work than he can have in drawing back his Saw and therefore when he draws back his Saw the Work-men bears it lightly off the unsawn Stuff which is an case to is labour and enables him the longer to continue his several Progressions of the Saw Master-Workmen when they direct any of their Underlins to saw such a piece of Stuff have several Phrases for the sawing of it They seldom say Saw that piece of Stuff But Draw the Saw through it Give that piece of Stuff a kerf Lay a kerf in that piece of Stuff and sometimes but most unproperly Cut or Slit that piece of stuff For the Saw cannot properly be said to cut or slit the Stuff but it rather breaks or tears away such parts of the Stuff from the whole as the points of the Teeth prick into and these parts it so tears away are proportionable to the fineness or rankness of the Setting of the Teeth The Excellency of Sawing is to keep the kerf exactly in the line marked out to be Sawn without wriggling on either or both sides And straight through the Stuff as Work-men call it that is in a Geometrical Term perpendicularly through the upper and underside if your Work require it as most work does But if your work be to be Sawn upon a Bevil as some work sometimes is then you are to observe that Bevil all the length of the Stuff c. § 27. The Use of the Pit-Taw marked M. in Plate 4. The Pit-Saw is not only used by those Work-men that make Sawing Timber and Boards their whole business but is also for small matters used by Joyners when what they have to do may perhaps be as soon done at home as they can carry or send it to the Sawyers The manner of their working is both alike for if it be a Board they would slit off a piece of Timber or if they would take any square Quarter or Batten c. off they first set off their Scantlin For Example If it be an Inch or more or less they would take off a piece of Stuff they open the points of their Compasses to an Inch measure on their Rule and so much more as they reckon the kerf of the Saw will make and from on side of their Stuff they set off at either end of the Stuff the Distance of the points of their Compasses at this Distance therefore they make with the points of their Compasses a prick at either end of the Stuff Then with Chaulk they whiten a line by rubbing the Chaulk pretty hard upon it Then one holds the line at one end upon the prick made there and the other strains the line pretty stiff upon the prick at the other end then whilst the line is thus strain'd one of them between his Finger and Thumb draws the middle of the line directly upright to a convenient height that it may spring hard enough down and then lets it go again so that it swiftly applies to its first position and strikes so strongly against the Stuff that the dust or attoms of the Chaulk that were rubbed into the Line shake out of it and remain upon the Stuff And thus also they mark the under-side of their Stuff This is called Lining of the Stuff And the Stuff cut into those lines shall be called Inch-Stuff because the Compasses that prickt the Stuff were opened wider by the width of the kerf than an Inch measure upon the Rule But had the Compasses been opened but an Inch exactly that piece Sawn off should in Workmen's Language have been called Inch-prickt thereby giving to understand that it is half the breadth of the kerf thinner than an Inch And thus they call all other Scantlins 2 Inches 2 ½ Inches 3 Inches c. Sawn or Prickt When two Work-men are not at hand to hold the line at both ends he that lines it strikes one point of his Compass or sometimes a Pricker or a Nale aslope towards that end into the prick set off and putting the noose at the end of his line over his Compasses c. goes to the other end and strains his line on that prick and strikes it as before The Stuff being thus lined
and smooth as a Table Yet though the Rules Joyners and Carpenters work by are so near the same and the Tools they work with and Stuff they work upon the same yet there are many Requisites proper to a Carpenter especially a Master Carpenter that a Joyner need take little notice of which after I have described the Carpenters Tools that are not exprest among the Joyners I shall speak to § 1. Of several Tools used in Carpentry that are not used in Joynery And first of the Ax THe Ax marked A in Plate 8. is as you see different from what the Joyners Hatchet is both in size and form their 's being a light Hatchet with a Basil edge on its left side because it is to be used with one hand and therefore hath a short Handle But the Carpenter's Ax being to hew great Stuff is made much deeper and heavier and its edge tapering into the middle of its Blade It hath a long Handle because it is used with both their hands to square or bevel their Timbers When they use the Ax the Timber hath commonly some Bauk or Log laid under it near each end that the edge of the Ax may be in less danger of striking into the ground when they hew near the bottom of the Timber And they commonly stand on that side the Timber they hew upon § 2. Of the Adz and its use THe Adz marked B in Plate 8. hath its Blade made thin and somewhat arching As the Ax hath its edge parallel to its Handle so the Adz hath its edge athwart the Handle and is ground to a Basil on its inside to its outer edge wherefore when it is blunt they cannot well grind it unless they take its Helve out of its Eye It s general use is to take thin Chips off Timber or Boards and to take off those irregularities that the Ax by reason of its form cannot well come at and that a Plain though rank set will not make riddance enough with It is most used for the taking off the irregularities on the framed work of a Floor when it is framed and pin'd together and laid on its place for that lying flat under them the edge of the Ax being parallel to its Handle as aforesaid cannot come at the irregularities to take them off but the Adz having its edge athwart the Handle will Again upon some Posts framed upright and range with other framed work close to it the edge of the Ax cannot come at the irregularities for the reason aforesaid but the Adz will And the like for the irregularities of framed work on a Ceiling c. When they work upon the framed work of a Floor they take the end of the Handle in both their hands placing themselves directly before the irregularity at a small distance stradling a little with both their Legs to prevent danger from the edge of the Adz and so by degrees hew of the irregularity But if they hew upon an Upright they stand directly before it They sometimes use the Adz upon small thin Stuff to make it thinner but this is many times when the Ax or some other properer Tool lies not at hand and then they lay their Stuff upon the Floor and hold one end of it down with the Ball of the Foot if the Stuff be long enough if not with the ends of their Toes and so hew it lightly away to their size or form or both § 3. Of Carpenters Chissels in general THough Carpenters for their finer work use all the sorts of Chissels described in Exercise 4. yet are not those sorts of Chissels strong enough for their rougher and more common work and therefore they also use a stronger sort of Chissels and distinguish them by the name of Socket-Chissels For whereas those Chissels Joyners use have their wooden heads made hollow to receive the Iron Sprig above the Shoulder of the Shank Carpenters have their Shank made with an hollow Socket at its top to receive a strong wooden Sprig made to fit into that Socket with a square Shoulder above it the thickness of the Iron of the Socket or somewhat more which makes it much more strong and able to endure the heavy blows of the Mallet they lay upon the head of the Chissel And the Shanks and Blades are made stronger for Carpenters use than they are for Joyners Of these Socket Chissels they have of the several sorts described in Joinery though not all severally distinguished by their names for they call them Half-Inch Three-quarter-Inch Chissels Inch and half Two-Inch to Three-Inch Chissel according to the breadth of the Blade But their Uses are the same mentioned in Joinery though the manner of using them be somewhat different too For as I told you in Joinery the Joyners press the edge of the Blade into the Stuff with the strength of their Shoulders but the Carpenters with the force of the blows of the Mallet And the Joyners guide their Chissels differently from what the Carpenters do their Socket Chissels for the Joyners hold the Shank and Blade of their Chissels as I described in Numb 4. Sect. 11. but the Carpenters hold the Shank of their Chissels in their clutched left hand and beat upon the Head with the Mallet in the right See the Figure of the Socket Chissel in Plate 8. C. with its Head a out of the Socket § 4. Of the Ripping Chissel and its use THe Ripping Chissel described Plate 8. D. is a Socket Chissel and is about an Inch broad and hath a blunt edge It s edge hath not a Basil as almost all other Chissels have and therefore would more properly be called a Wedge than a Chissel But most commonly Carpenters use an old cast off Chissel for a Ripping Chissel It s office is not to cut Wood as others do but to rip or tear two pieces of wood fastned together from one another by entering the blunt edge of it between the two pieces and then knocking hard with the Mallet upon the head of the Handle till you drive the thicker part of it between the two pieces and so force the power that holds them together be it Nails or otherwise to let go their hold For its blunt edge should be made of Steel and well tempered so that if you knock with strong blows of the Mallet the Chissels edge upon a Nail though of some considerable substance it may cut or brake it short asunder If you cannot at once placing the Ripping-Chissel part the two pieces you must use two Ripping-Chissels placing the second at the remotest entrance in the breach and driving that home will both open the breach wider and loosen the first Ripping-Chissel so that you may take it out again and place it farther in the breach And so you must continue edging farther and farther till you have separated your intended pieces It is sometimes used when Carpenters have committed error in their work and must undo what they did to mend it But it
pair of hands with Sledges to batter it out or as Workmen call it to draw it out till it comes to its breadth and pretty near its shape and so by several Heats if your Work require them frame it into Form and Size then with the Face of your Hand-hammer smooth your work from the Dents the Pen made as you did with a Blood-red Heat A Sparkling or Welding Heat is only used when you double up your Iron as Smiths call it to make it thick enough for your purpose and so weld or work in the doubling into one another and make it become one entire lump or it is used when you join several Bars of Iron together to make them thick enough for your purpose and work them into one Bar or else it is used when you are to join or weld two pieces of Iron together end to end to make them long enough but in this case you must be very quick at the Forge for when your two ends are throught of a good Heat and that the inside of the Iron be almost ready to Run as well as the outside you must very hastily snatch them both out of the Fire together and after you have with the Edge of your Hammer scraped off such Scales or Dirt as may hinder their incorporating with your utmost diligence clap your left hand-piece upon your right hand-piece and with all speed least you lose some part of your good Heat fall to Hammering them together and work them soundly into one another and this if your Bars be large will require another or sometimes two or three pair of Hands besides your own to do but if it be not throughly welded at the first Heat you must reiterate your Heats so oft till they be throughly welded then with a Flame Heat as before shape it and afterwards smooth it with a Blood-red Heat To make your Iron come the sooner to a Welding-heat you must now and then with your Hearth-staff stir up the Fire and throw up those Cinders the Iron may have run upon for they will never burn well but spoil the rest of the Coals and take a little white Sand between your Finger and your Thumb and throw upon the heating Iron then with your Slice quickly clap the outside of your Fire down again and with your Washer dipt in Water damp the outside of the Fire to keep the Heat in But you must take special Care that your Iron burn not in the Fire that is that it do not run or melt for then your Iron will be so brittle that it will not endure Forging without breaking and so hard that a File will not touch it Some Smiths use to strew a little white Sand upon the Face of the Anvil also when they are to hammer upon a Welding-heat for they say it makes the Iron weld or incorporate the better If through Mistake or ill management your Iron be too thin or too narrow towards one of the ends then if you have substance enough and yet not too long you may up-set it that is take a Flame Heat and set the heated end upright upon the Anvil and hammer upon the cold end till the heated end be beat or up-set into the Body of your Work But if it be a long piece of work and you fear its length may wrong the middle you must hold it in your left hand and lay it flat on the Anvil but so as the heated end intended to be up-set may lie a little over the further side of the Anvil and then with your Hand-hammer in your right hand beat upon the heated end of your work minding that every stroak you take you hold your work stiff against the Face of the Hammer Afterwards smooth it again with a Blood-red Heat If you are to Forge a Sholder on one or each side of your work lay the Shank of your Iron at the place where your Sholder must be on the edge of your Anvil that edge which is most convenient to your hand that if more Sholders be to be made turn them all successively and hammer your Iron so as that the Shank of the Iron that lies on the flat of the Anvil feel as well the weight of your Blows as the Sholder at the edge of the Anvil for should you lay your blows on the edge of the Anvil only it would instead of flatting the Shank to make the Sholder cut your work through Your Work will sometimes require to have holes punched in it at the Forge you must then make a Steel Punch to the size and shape of the hole you are to strike and harden the point of it without tempering because the heat of the Iron will soften it fast enough and sometimes too fast but then you must re-harden it then taking a Blood-heat of your Iron or if it be very large almost a Flame-heat lay it upon your Anvil and with your left hand place the point of the Punch where the hole must be and with the Hand-hammer in your right hand punch the hole or if your work be heavy you may hold it in your left hand and with your Punch fixed at the end of a Hoop-stick or some such Wood hold the stick in your right hand and place the point of your Punch on the work where the hole must be and let another Man strike till your Punch come pretty near the bottom of your work which when it does the sides of your work round about the hole will rise from the Face of the Anvil and your Punch will print a bunching mark upon the hole of a Bolster that is a thick Iron with a hole in it and placing your Punch as before strike it through But you must note that as oft as you see your Punch heat or change Colour you take it out of the hole and pop it into Water to re-harden it or else it will batter in the hole you intend to strike and not only spoil it self but the Work too by running aside in the Work Having punched it through on the one side turn the other side of your work and with your Hammer set it flat and straight and with a Blood-heat punch it through on the other side also so shall that hole be fit for the File or square bore if the curiosity of your purposed Work cannot allow it to pass without filing When your Work is Forged do not quench it in water to cool it but throw it down upon the Floor or Hearth to cool of it self for the quenching it in water will harden it as I shall shortly shew you when I come to the Tempering of Steel Of Brazing and Soldering YOU may have occasion sometimes to Braze or Solder a piece of work but it is used by Smiths only when their work is so thin or small that it will not endure Welding To do this take small pieces of Brass and lay them on the place that must be brazed and strew a little Glass beaten
you can upon the length of your work for so shall the File enter upon the second Rising on your work before it goes off the first and will slip over and not touch the dent or hollow between the two Risings till your Risings are brought into a straight line with your hollow dent But of this more shall be said when I come to the Practice of Filing upon several particular sorts of work If it be a Square Bar or such like you are to file upon all its Angles or Edges must be left very sharp and straight Therefore your Vice being well set up according to fore-going Directions you must in your filing athwart over the Chaps of the Vice be sure to carry both your hands you hold the file in truly Horizontal or flat over the Work for should you let either of your hands mount the other would dip and the edge of that Square it dips upon would be taken off and should you let your hand move never so little circularly both the Edges you file upon would be taken off and the Middle of your intended Flat would be left with a Rising on it But this Hand-craft you must attain to by Practice for it is the great Curiosity in Filing If it be a round Piece or Rod of Iron you are to file upon what you were forbid upon Square Work you must perform on the Round for you must dip your Handle-hand and mount your end-hand a little and laying pritting near the end of your File to the Work file circularly upon the Work by mounting your Handle-hand by degrees and dipping your End-hand in such manner as when the Middle of your File comes about the top of your Work your File may be flat upon it and as you continue your stroaks forwards still keep your hands moving circularly till you have finished your full Stroak that is a Stroak the whole length of the File By this manner of Circular filing you keep your Piece or Rod round but should you file flat upon the top of your work so many times as you shall remove or turn your work in the Vice so many Flats or Squares you would have in your work which is contrary to your purpose When you thrust your File forwards lean heavy upon on it because the Teeth of the File are made to cut forwards but when you draw your File back to recover an other thrust lift or bear the File lightly just above the work for it cuts not coming back Thus much of FILING in General MECHANICK EXERCISES OR THE DOCTRINE OF HANDY-WORKS By Joseph Moxon late Member of the Royal Society and Hydographer to King Charles II. LONDON Printed and Sold by J. Moxon 1693. MECHANICK EXERCISES OR The Doctrine of Handy-Works Applied to the making of Hinges Locks Keys Screws and Nuts Small and Great Of Hinges IN Fig. 1. A the Tail B the Cross CDDDDE the Joint DDDD the Pin-hole When the Joint at C on the Tail is pin'd in the Joint at E in the Cross the whole Hinge is called a Cross-Garnet Hinges if they be small as for Cup-board doors Boxes c. are cut out of cold Plate Iron with the a Cold-Chissel but you must mark the out-lines of your intended Hinge as Fig. 1. the Cross-Garnet either with Chalk or else rase upon the Plate with the corner of the Cold-Chissel or any other hardned Steel that will scratch a bright stroke upon the Plate and then laying the Plate flat upon the Anvil if the Plate be large or upon the b Stake if the Plate be small take the Cold-Chissel in your left hand and set the edge of it upon that Mark or Rase and with the Hand-hammer in your right hand strike upon the head of the Cold-Chissel till you cut or rather punch the edge of the Cold-Chissel almost thro' the Plate in that Place I say almost through because should you strike it quite through the edge of the Cold-Chissel would be in danger of battering or else breaking for the Face of the Anvil is hardned Steel and a light blow upon its Face would wrong the edge of the Cold-Chissel besides it sometimes happens that the Anvil or Stake is not all over so hard as it should be and then the Cold-Chissel would cut the Face of the Anvil or Stake and consequently spoil it Therefore when the edge of the Cold-Chissel comes pretty near the bottom of the Plate you must lay but light blows upon the cold Chissel and yet you must strike the edge of the Cold-Chissel so near through the bottom of the Plate that you may break the remaining substance asunder with your Fingers or with a pair of Plyers or sometimes by pinching the Plate in the Vice with the Cut place close to the Superficies of the Chaps of the Vice and then with your Fingers and Thumb or your whole hand wriggle it quite asunder But having cut one breadth of the Cold-Chissel remove the edge of it forward in the Rase and cut another breadth and so move it successively till your whole intended shape be cut out of the Plate When you cut out an Hinge you must leave on the length of the Plate AB in this Figure Plate enough to lap over for the Joints I mean to Turn or Double about a round Pin so big as you intend the Pin of your Hinge shall be and also Plate enough to Weld upon the inside of the Hinge below the Pin-hole of the Joint that the Joint may be strong Afterwards with a Punch of hardned Steel as you were taught Numb I. fol. 11. 12. Punch the Nail-holes in the Plate or if your Plate be very thin you may Punch them with a â— cold Punch After all smooth it as well as you can with your Hand-hammer take a Blood-red Heat if your Work require it if not smooth it cold so shall the Tail-piece be fit for the Pile Double and Weld the Cross-piece as you did the Tail-piece Having forg'd your Hinge fit for the File you must proceed to make the Joint by cutting a notch in the middle of the Pin-hole between DD in Plate 2. on the Cross as at E and you must cut down the ends of the Pin-hole on the Tail-piece as at DD till the Joint at C fit exactly into the notch in the Cross and that when the Pin is put into the Pin-hole DD on the Cross the Pin-hole in the Tail-piece may also receive the Pin then by holding the Tail-piece in one hand and the Cross in the other double the Tail and Cross towards one another to try if they move evenly and smoothly without shaking on the Pin which if they do the Joint is made if they do not you must examine where the Fault is and taking the Pin out mend the fault in the Joint Then File down all the irregularities the Cold-Chissel made on the edges of your Work and if the curiosity of work require it file also the outer flat of your work But Smiths
or sometimes three Studs upon this Plate one near each end and the other in the middle to Rivet into the Main-plate to keep the Ward fixt in its place Therefore you must take care when you elect this thin piece of Plate that it be broad enough for the Ward and these Studs too Then laying the Plate a-thwart the Pike of the Bickern hold your hand even with the face of the Bickern and hammer this Plate down somewhat by the side of the Pike and by degrees you may with care taken bring it unto a circular form just of the size of that Circle you described on the Main-Plate which when you have done you must apply this Ward to the Circle you described on the Main-Plate setting it in the position you intend it shall be fixed and marking with a steel Point where the Studs stand upon that Circle in those marks punch holes to Rivet the Studs to Work so by all the other Wards If you have a Pin to the Lock Punch a hole through the Centre on the Cover-Plate somewhat smaller than the Wyre you are to make your Pin of because you may then file one end of the Pin away to a Shank which must fit the smaller hole on the Plate and the whole thickness of the Pin will be a Sholder which will keep the Pin steddy in the Centre-hole of the Plate when the Pin is Rivetted into the Plate But because there is some Skill to be used in Rivetting I shall before I proceed any farther teach you The manner of Rivetting Rivetting is to batter the Edges of a Shank over a Plate or other Iron the Shank is let into so as the Plate or other Iron may be clinched close and fixed between the battering at the end of the Shank and the Sholder So that When you Rivet a Pin into a hole your Pin must have a Sholder to it thicker than the hole is wide that the Sholder slip not through the hole as well as the Shank but the Shank of the Pin must be exactly of the size of the hole the Shank must be Rivetted into and somewhat longer than the Plate is thick file the end of the Shank flat so shall the Edges of the end the easilier batter over the Plate then put your Shank into the hole wherein it is to be Rivetted but be sure you force the Shank close up to the Sholder then turn the top of this Sholder downwards Plate and all upon your Stake but lay it so as that the Sholder lie solid and the Shank at the same time stand directly upright and with your left hand keep your work bearing hard upon the flat or face of the Stake Then holding your hammer in your right hand hold the edge of the face of it dripping a-slope from the right hand outwards and lay pretty light blows upon the edge of the end of the Shank turning with your left hand your work round to the face of the Hammer till you have battered the edges of the Shank quite round about but this is seldom done with once turning your work about therefore you may thus work it round again and again till you find it is pretty well Rivetted then lay heavier blows upon it sometimes with the face sometimes with the Pen of the hammer till the end of the Shank is battered effectually over the Plate One main consideration in Rivetting is that the Pin you rivet in stand upright to the Plate or other Iron you rivet it upon for if it do not stand upright you will be forced to set it upright after it is rivetted either in the Vice or with your Plyers or with your Hammer and that may if your Plate be thin bow it or if it be thick break the Sank or else the Sholder of your Rivet and so you lose your labour and sometimes spoil your Work Another consideration is that when you rivet a Pin to any Plate and you fear it may afterwards twist about by some force that may be offered it you must to provide against this danger file the Shank you intend to Rivet either Square or Triangular and make the hole in the Plate you rivet it into of the same size and form and then rivet in the Shank as before There are two ways to make your Hole Square or Triangular one is by filing it into these forms when it is first Punched round the other by making a Punch of Steel of the size and shape of the Shank you are to rivet and punching that punch into the Plate make the same form Now to return where I left off The Pins and Shanks of these Wards must be made of a long square form because the Plates of the Wards being thin should you make them no broader than the Plate is thick the Studs or Shanks would be too weak to hold the Wards therefore you must make the Rivetting-shank three or four times or sometimes more as broad as the Plate is thick and then rivet them in as you were taught just now Then place the Cover-plate upon the Main-plate so as the Centre of the Cover-plate may stand directly over and against the Centre of the Main-plate and make marks through the hole GG of the Studs of the Cover-plate upon the Main-plate and on those marks Punch holes and fit two Pins into them to fasten the Cover-plate on to the Main-plate but you must not yet rivet them down till the Key-hole be made because this Cover-plate would then stop the progress of the File through the Main-plate when you file the Key-hole When you have placed the Cover-plate upon the Main-plate and fitted it on with Pins so as you may take it off and put it on again as your Work may require you must Punch the key-hole or rather drill two holes close by one another if the Key-hole falls near the Wards because Punching may be apt to set the Wards out of form and with small Files file the two holes into one another to make the hole big enough to come at it with bigger Files and then file your Key-hole to your intended size and shape The Key-hole being finished forge your Key as you were taught Numb I. fol. 8. and if your Key is to have a Pin-hole drill the hole in the middle of the end of the shank then file the Wards or Slits in the Bit with thin Files yet sometimes Smiths Punch or Cut them with a Cold-Chissel at the same distances from the middle of the Pin-hole in the end of the Shank which is the same Centre which was made before in the Main-plate on the Cover-plate which you placed the Wards at from the Centre of the Main and Cover-plate But before you file these Wards too deep into the Bit of the Key make trials by putting the Bit into the Key-hole whether the Wards in the Bit will agree with the Wards on the Plates which if they do you may boldly cut them to the depth of the Wards
or Bar just above the Sholder makes the Head and for that I did not mention it there I thought fit since the purpose required it to do it here The Forging of the Nuts are taught before Numb I. Fol. 11 12. Having forged and filed your Shank square and the Head either square or round as you intend it shall be file also the Screw-pin from the risings and dents left at the Forge and file it a little tapering towards the end that it may enter the Screw-plate the Rule how much it must be Tapering is this consider how deep the Inner Grooves of the Screw-plate lie in the outer Threds and file the end of the Screw-pin so much smaller than the rest of the Screw-pin for the outer Threds of the Screw-plate must make the Grooves on the Screw-pin and the Grooves in the Screw-plate will make the Threds on the Screw-pin Having fitted your self with a hole in your Screw-plate that is such a hole whose Diameter of the hollow Grooves shall be equal to the Diameter of the Screw-pin but not such an hole whose Diameter of the outer Threds shall be equal to the Diameter of the Screw-pin for then the Screw-plate will indeed turn about the Screw-pin but not cut any Grooves or Threds in it screw the Shank with the Head down-wards in the Vice so as that the Screw-pin may stand directly upright and take the handle of the Screw-plate in your right-Right-hand and lay that hole flat upon the Screw-pin and press it pretty hard down over it and turn the Screw-plate evenly about with its handle towards you from the Right towards the Left-hand so shall the outer Threds of the Srew-plate cut Grooves into the Screw-pin and the substance of the Iron on the Screw-pin will fill up the Grooves of the Screw-plate and be a Thred upon the Screw-pin But take this for Caution that as I told you you must not make your Screw-pin too small because the Screw-plate will not then cut it so if you make it too big if it do enter the Screw-plate where it is Taper it will endanger the breaking it or if it do not break it yet the Screw-plate will after it gets a little below the Tapering go no farther but work and wear off the Thred again it made about the tapering To fit the Pin therefore to a true size I in my Practise use to try into what hole of the Screw-plate the Tap or place of the Tap if it be a tapering Tap I make the Nut with will just slide through Threds and all which generally in most Screw-plates is the hole next above that to be used for then turning my Pin about in that hole if the Pin be irregularly filed or but a little too big on any part of it the Threds of that Hole will cut small marks upon the Pin on the irregular places or where it is too big so that afterwards filing those marks just off I do at once file my Pin truly round and small enough to fit the Hole I make my Screw-pin with As the Hole of the Screw-plate must be fitted to the Screw-pin so must the Screw-tap that makes the Screw in the Nut be fitted to the round hole of the Nut but that Tap must be of the same size of your Screw-pin too which you may try by the same hole of the Screw-plate you made the Screw-pin with Screw the Nut in the Vice directly flat that the hole may stand upright and put the Screw-tap upright into the hole then if your Screw-tap have an handle turn it by the handle hard round in the Hole so will the Screw-tap work it self into the Hole and make Grooves in it to fit the Threds of the Screw-pin But if the Screw-tap have no handle then it hath its upper end filed to a long square to fit into an hollow square made near the handle of the Screw-plate put that long square hole over the long square on the top of the Tap and then by turn-ing about the Screw-plate you will also turn about the Tap in the hole and make Grooves and Threds in the Nut. But though small Screws are made with Screw-plates yet great Screws such as are for Vices Hot-Presses Printing-Presses c. are not made with Screw-Plates but must be cut out of the main Iron with heavy blows upon a Cold-Chissel The manner of making them is as follows The Rules and manner of Cutting Worms upon great Screws THE Threds of Screws when they are bigger than can be made in Screw-plates are called Worms They consist in length breadth and depth the length of a Worm begins at the one end of the Spindle and ends at the other the breadth of the Worm is contained between any two Grooves on the Spindle viz. The upper and under Groove of the Worm in every part of the Spindle the depth of the Worm is cut into the Diameter of the Spindle viz. The depth between the outside of the Worm and the bottom of the Groove The depth ought to be about the one Seventh Part of the Diameter on each side the Spindle You ought to make the Groove wider than the Worm is broad because the Worm being cut out of the same intire piece with the Spindle will be as strong as the Worm in the Nut tho' the Worm on the Spindle be smaller for you cannot come at the Worm in the Nut to cut it with Files as you may the Spindle and therefore you must either Turn up a Rod of Iron to twist round about the Grooves on the Spindle and then take it off and Braze it into the Nut or else you must Cast a Nut of Brass upon the Spindle which will neither way be so strong as the Worm cut out of the whole Iron by so much as Brass is a weaker Mettal than Iron and therefore it is that you ought to allow the Worm in the Nut a greater breadth than the Worm on the Spindle that the strength of both may as near as you can be equallized for both being put to equal force ought to have equal strength The Worm may very well be the One Seventh Part smaller than the Groove is wide as aforesaid Having considered what breadth the Worm on the Spindle shall have take a small thin Plate of Brass or Iron and file a square notch at the end of it just so wide and so deep as your Worm is to be broad and deep and file the sides of the Plate that this notch stands between just to the width of the Groove This Plate must be a Gage to file your Worm and Groove to equal breadth by then draw a straight and upright line the whole length of the Spindle divide from this line the Circumference of the whole Spindle into eight equal parts and through those Divisions draw seven Lines more parallel to the first Line then open your Compasses just to the breadth of one Worm and one Groove and set off that distance
so oft as you can from the one end of the Spindle to the other but I should first have told you that the end of your Spindle must be truly square to the outside and with a Prick-Punch make a mark to every setting off on that line Do the like to all the other straight upright Lines Note that you may chuse one of these eight upright lines for the first and make the next towards your left hand the second but then the first must stand towards you and the next that the third and so on And the top mark of every one of these upright straight Lines shall be called the first Mark the next under that the second Mark the third the third Mark and so downwards in Order and Number Having marked one of these eight Lines at the top of the Spindle to begin the winding of the Worm at with a Black-lead Pencil draw a line from that Mark to the second Mark on the next upright line towards the left hand from thence continue drawing on with your Pencil to the third Mark on the third upright line draw on still to the fourth Mark on the fourth upright line and so onwards till you have drawn over the eight straight lines which when you have done you must still continue on drawing downwards to each lower Mark on each successive upright line till you have drawn your Worm from end to end Then examine as well as you can by your Eye whether the Worm you have carried on from Mark to Mark with the Black-lead Pencil do not break into Angles which if it do any where you must mend it in that place Then with the edge of an half-round File file a small line in that Black-lead line and be sure that the line you are filing run exactly through all the Marks that the Black-lead Pencil should have run through if it did not for want of good guidance of the hand This small line is only for a guide to cut the Groove down by for the making of a Screw is indeed nothing else but the cutting the Groove down for then the Worm remains But you must not file in this small line but leave it as a guide to lie on the middle of the Worm as I said before Therefore to cut down the Groove take a Cold-Chissel somewhat thinner than you intend the Groove shall be wide viz. about the thickness of the breadth of the Worm and with heavy blows cut out the Groove pretty near The reason why you should not offer to cut the Grooves to their full width at the first is because your Hand may carry the Cold-Chissel somewhat awry and should your Cold-Chissel be as thick as the Groove is wide you could not smooth the Irregularities out without making the Worm narrower than you intended it Then with a Flat-file open and smooth the Groves filing in the middle between the two next fine lines cut by the Half-round File till you have wrought the Spindle from end to end so shall the Worm remain But you must not expect that though the Groove be cut it is therefore finished for now you must begin to use the thin Plate-Gage and try First whether the Worm have equal breadth all the way Secondly whether rhe Groove have equal breadth all the way And Thirdly whether the Groove have equal depth all the way and whereever you find the Worm too broad you must file it thinner and where the Groove is not deep enough file it deeper therefore in cutting down the Groove you may observe that if at first you file the Worm ne'er so little too narrow or the Groove ne'er so little too deep you shall have all the rest of the Worm or Groove to file over again because the whole Worm must be wrought to the breadth of the smallest part of it and the whole Groove to the depth of the deepest place all the way especially if the Nut be to be Cast in Brass upon the Spindle because the Mettal running close to the Spindle will bind on that place and not come off it but if the Nut be not to be Cast in Brass but only hath a Worm brazed into it this niceness is not so absolutely necessary because that Worm is first Turned up and bowed into the Grooves of the Spindle and you may try that before it is Braz'd into the Nut and if it go not well about you may mend or botch it either by Hammering or Filing or both The manner of Casting the Nut upon the Spindle I shall shew when I come to the Casting of Mettals and the manner of Brazing hath been Taught already Numb I. fol. 12 13. If your Spindle is to have three or four Worms winding about it as Coining-Presses and Printing-Presses have that they may not wear out too fast you must divide the Circumference into three or four equal parts and each of these equal parts into two equal parts and having straight upright lines drawn as before begin a Worm at each of those three or four Divisions on the Circumference and considering the breadth of your Worm and width of your Groove measure that width so oft as you can on all the upright lines and making Marks on those at each Setting off draw as before a line from the end of the Spindle on the first upright line to the Mark below it which is the second Mark on the second upright line from thence to the third Mark on the third upright line and so on to the other end of the Spindle Having drawn the first Worm work the other Worms as this MECHANICK EXERCISES OR The Doctrine of Handy-Works Viz. The making of Jacks and Bullet-Molds the twisting of Iron and Case-hardning it with the use of some Tools not treated of before Also of the several Sorts of Steel the manner of Softning Hardning and Tempering them Of Jacks FIg. 1. is called a Worm-Jack AB the Fore-side AC the Back-side AA the Top-piece BC the Bottom-piece altogether the Jack-Frame EEK the Main-Spindle NON the Main Wheel and Barrel O the Barrel D the Wind-up-piece fastned into the Barrel FF the Worm-wheel Spindle G the Worm-wheel Q the Worm-Nut H the Worm R the Stud of the Worm-Spindle D the Worm-Loop L the Wind-up-piece M the Winch or Winder or Handle the Iron part is the Winder the Wood the Handle S the Eye of the Winder II the Fly T the Socket of the Fly V the Struck-Wheel X the Stayes or Back-fastnings First you are to Forge the Jack-frame and on the left side of the Foreside a Shank for the Stud of the Worm-spindle as you were taught Numb I. fol. 8 9 10 11 12. and then file it as you were taught Numb I. fol. 14 15 16. The top and bottom Pieces are let into square holes at the ends of the Fore and Backsides But you must forge the top and bottom Pieces with two small Squares towards the ends of them and two round ends for Screw-pins beyond
and Backsides The way Smiths use to try them by is to turn them about by the Spindle and holding a piece of Chalk steddy to the outer Limb of the wheel not leting the point of the Chalk slip forwards or backwards or towards the right or left hand for then if the Chalk make a white stroke round the whole wheel and that white stroke lie exactly parallel to the two outer edges of the wheel the Wheel is not only round but stands also true upon its Spindle that is perpendicular to the Spindle and the Spindle perpendicular to the flat of it But if the Chalk does not touch round the whole wheel you must file down so much of the outer Verge of the wheel where the Chalk does touch as will bring down or equalize the Diameter of the wheel in that place to the Diameter of the wheel in the place where it does not touch so may you conclude the wheel is round If the mark of the Chalk lie not exactly in the middle between the two edges of the wheel then it is not perpendicular to the Spindle and you must with the Hammer set it right that is perpendicular by forcing the wheel over from the side it leans too much to or else by forcing the Spindle which is all one yet this is an help you ought not to rely upon to use but in case of necessity but rather be sure your Wheel and Spindle stand perpendicular to one another before you fasten the Wheel upon the square of the Spindle for by this help the square on the Spindle will be apt to loosen in the square of the Wheel and you will have your wheel to new fasten upon the square of the Spindle again As you tried the Wheels with Chalk so you must try the Nut the Worm and the Spindles The upper part of the Worm-spindle must be filed truly round to fit into the Worm-Loop that it shake not in it and yet go very easily about without the least stopping At the very upper end of this round on the Worm-spindle you must file a square to fit the square hole of the Fly upon The Shank of the Worm-Loop and the Stud of the Worm Spindle must stand so far off the left side of the Fore-side that the Teeth of the Worm-wheel may fall full into the Grooves of the Worm for so both being cut with the same slope the slope Teeth of the Worm-wheel will gather into the slope Grooves of the Spindle and pressing upon the Worm drive about the Worm-spindle and the Fly The Fly is made sometimes with two sometimes with four Arms from the center and sometimes the Arms are made longer sometimes shorter The more Arms and also the longer Arms are to make the Jack go slower There is yet a small matter more of Iron work about the Jack which is the Tumbler but it lies in the farther end of the Barrel and cannot well be described without a particular figure which therefore I have inserted As in Fig. 2. A the Barrel B the Main-spindle coming through the Barrel a the center of the Tumbler moving upon the Center-pin which is fastened into an Iron plate behind the Barrel b The Coller upon the Main-spindle from which proceeds a Tongue which passes through a pretty wide hole at c in the Tumler as far as e d the Catch of the Tumbler The Tumbler moves as aforesaid upon the center hole a but receives the Tongue through it at c and passes as far ase. This Tongue serves as a Check to the Tumbler that it cannot tumble above an Angle of 20 degrees from the Iron plate it is fastened to and that the width of its center-hole and the width of the hole the Tongue passes through and the motion of the Coller about the Main-spindle allows it but were the center hole a and its Center-pin fit and the hole c and the Tongue that also passes through it also fit and the Coller fixt it could not move at all But this play is enough for it to do the purpose it is designed for The Tumbler is so placed behind the Barrel that while the Jack-line is winding up upon the Barrel its round britch passes forwards by all the Crosses of the Main-wheel and the Point or Catch d as then claps it self snug or close to the Iron plate of the Barrel But when the Barrel is turned on the contrary way the weight of the Catch in half a revolution of the Barrel let the Tumbler be posited where it will makes it open and fall from the Iron plate and but against one or other of the Crosses on the Main-wheel and so thrusts the Main-wheel about with the Barrel The Eye of the Winch or Winder is forged as you were taught to forge the Pin-hole in the Cross-garnet Numb II. fol. 18. But that was to be a small round hole and therefore you were directly to lay a small round piece of Iron or Wyre where you intended the Pin-hole should be and lap the other end of your work over it but this is to be a wide square hole therefore you must lay a square piece of Iron of your size where the Eye of the Jack-Winch shall be and lap or double the other end over it and Weld and Work as you were there directed The rest of the Winch is but common Forging and Filing work which hath been sufficiently taught already The Wood-work belonging to a Jack is a Barrel a Spit-wheel and a Handle of the Winch which being Turners work I shall say nothing to till I come to the Art of Turning Only those wheels that have more than one Groove in them are called Two Three c. Struck-wheels in Workmens corrupting Language but I suppose originally two Stroak three Stroak-Wheels c. from the number of Grooves that are in them The Excellencies of a good Jack are 1. That the Jack-Frame be forged and filed square and conveniently strong well set together and will screw close and tight up 2. That the Wheels be perpendicularly and strongly fixed on the squares of the Spindles 3. That the Teeth be evenly cut and well smoothed and that the Teeth of the Worm-wheel fall evenly into the Groove of the Worm 4. That the Spindle Pins shake not between the Fore and Backsides nor are too big or too little for their Center-holes a The Square-bore is a square Steel Point or Shank well temper'd fitted into a square Socket in an Iron Wimble It is described Fig. 3. It s use is to open a Hole and make it truly round and smooth within when you use it you must set the Head against your Breast and put the point of the Square-bore into the hole you punched or would open and turning the handle about you with it turn about the Shank of the Square-bare whose edges cut away the irregularities of the Iron made in the Punching But you must thrust or lean hard with your Breast against the Head of the
are to Plain upon and it warp a little with the Grain or be any ways crooked in the breadth you must then turn the Grain athwart the Work-Bench and Plane upon the Cross-Grain For if your work be hollow in the middle you must Plain both the Bearing sides thinner till they come to a Try with the middle Then turn the other side of your work and working still Cross-grain'd work away the middle till it come Try with the two sides This way of Cross-Grain'd working is by Workmen called Traversing Thus have you in general the use of all the other Planes But the use of those Planes that are designed for other particular purposes I shall shew as they come in Order § 4. Of the Joynter B 2. The Joynter is made somewhat longer than the Fore-plane and hath its Sole perfectly straight from end to end It s office is to follow the Fore-plane and to shoot an edge perfectly straight and not only an edge but also a Board of any thickness especially when a Joynt is to be shot Therefore the Hand must be carried all along the whole length with an epual bearing weight and so exactly even and upright to the edges of the Board that neither side of the Plane encline either inward or outwards but that the whole breadth be exactly square on both its sides supposing its sides straight so will two edges of two boards when thus shot lie so exactly flat and square upon one another that light will not be discerned betwixt them But yet it is counted a piece of good workmanship in a Joyner to have the craft of bearing his hand so curiously even the whole length of a long Board and yet it is but a sleight to those Practice hath inur'd the Hand to The Joynter is also used to Try Tables with large or small or other such broad work and then Joyners work as well upon the Traverse with it as with the Grain of the Wood and also Angularly or Corner-wise that they may be the more assur'd of the flatness of their work It s Iron must be set very fine so fine that when you wink with one Eye and set that end the straight side of the Iron is next to the other Eye there appear a little above an hairs breadth of the edge above the superficies of the sole of the Plane and the length of the edge must lie perfectly straight with the flat breadth of the sole of the Plane For the Iron being then well wedg'd up and you working with the Plane thus set have the greater assurance that the Iron cannot run too deep into the Stuff and consequently you have the less danger that the Joynt is wrought out of straight § 5. The Use of the Strike-block The Strike-Block marked B 3. is a Plane shorter than the Joynter having its sole made exactly flat and straight and is used for the shooting of a short Joynt because it is more handy than the long Joynter It is also used for the framing and fitting the Joints of Miters and Bevels but then it is used in a different manner from other Planes For if the Miter and Bevel you are to fit be small you must hold it very steddy in your left hand with the Sole of it upwards and its fore-end towards your right hand and you must hold your work in your right hand very steddy Then apply the sawn Miter or sawn Bevel end of your Stuff to the fore-end of the Strike-Block and so thrust it hard and upright forwards till it pass over the edge of the Iron so shall the edge of the Iron with several of these thrusts continued cut or plain off your stuff the roughness that the Teeth of your Saw made But if your work be so big that you cannot well weild it in your right hand you must set the end of your work in the Bench-screw and Plain upon it with a smoothing Plane § 6. The Use of the Smoothing-Plane The Smoothing-Plane marked B 4. must have its Iron set very fine because its Office is to smoothen the work from those Irregularities the Fore-Plane made § 7. The Use of the Rabbet-Plane The Rabbet-Plane marked B 5. is to cut part of the upper edge of a Board or other Stuff straight that is square down into the Board that the edge of another Board also cut down in the same manner may fit and join into the Square of the first board thus cut away And when two Boards are thus lapped on the edges over one another this lapping over is called Rabbetting The Rabbet-Plane is also sometimes used to strike a Facia in a piece of Molding as shall be shewed in its proper place The sides of the Iron are not inclosed in the Stock of this Plane as the fore-going Planes are but the Iron is full as broad as the stock is thick that the very angles of the edge of the Iron may not be born off the stuff to hinder the straight and square cutting it down nor doth it deliver its shaving at a Mouth on the top of the Stock as the other Planes do But it hath its Mouth on the sides of the Plane and delivers its shavings there It s Iron is commonly about an Inch broad § 8. The Use of the Plow The Plow marked B 6. is a narrow Rabbet-Plane with some additions to it viz. two square Staves marked aa yet some of them have the upper edges of them rounded off for the better compliance with the Hand The Staves are let stiff through two square Mortesses in the stock marked bb They are about seven or eight Inches long and stand straight and square on the farther side of the stock and these two staves have sholders on the higher side of the stock reaching down to the wooden sole of the Plane for there is also an Iron sole belonging to the Plow To the bottom of these two Sholders is Rivetted with Iron Rivets a Fence as workmen call it which comes close under the Wooden sole and its depth reaches below the Iron sole about half an Inch Because the Iron of the Plow is very narrow and the sides of it towards the bottom are not to be inclosed in the stock for the same reason that was given in the Rabbet-Plane therefore upon the stock is let in and strongly nailed an Iron Plate of the thickness of the Plow-Iron for Wood of that breadth will not be strong enough to endure the force the lower end of the Plow-Iron is put to This Iron-Plate is almost of the same thickness that the breadth of a Plow-Iron is Joyners have several Plows for several widths of Grooves The Office of the Plow is to plow a narrow square Groove on the edge of a Board which is thus perform'd The Board is set an edge with one end in the Bench-screw and its other edge upon a Pin or Pins put into a Hole or Holes in the Leg or Legs of the Bench such an Hole or
office is to follow the Former and to pare off and smoothen the irregularities the Former made It is not knockt upon with the Mallet but the Blade is clasped upon the out side of the hindermost joints of the fore and little fingers by the clutched inside of the middle and third fingers of the right hand and so its edge being set upon the scribed line and the top of the Helve placed against the hollow of the inside of the right sholder with pressing the sholder hard upon the Helve the edge cuts and pares away the irregularities This way of handling may seem a preposterous posture to mannage an Iron Tool in and yet the reason of the Original contriver of this Posture is to be approved For should Workmen hold the Blade of the Paring-Chissel in their whole hand they must either hold their hand pretty near the Helve where they cannot well mannage the Tool or they must hold it pretty near the edge where the outside of the fingers will hide the scribed line they are to Pare in But this posture all Workmen are at first taught and Practice doth so inure them to it that if they would they could not well leave it § 12. Of the Skew-Former The Skew-Former marked C4 is seldom used by Joyners but for cleansing accute Angles with its accute Angle on its edge where the Angles of other Chissels will not so well come § 13. Of the Mortess-Chissel The Mortess Chissel marked C5 is a narrow Chissel but hath its Blade much thicker and consequently stronger that it may endure the heavier blows with the Mallet than other Chissels have so that in grinding it to an edge it is ground to a very broad Basil as you may see in the Figure It s Office is to cut deep square holes called Mortesses in a piece of Wood. Joyners use them of several Breadths according as the Breadths of their Mortesses may require § 14. Of the Gouge The Gouge marked C6 is a Chissel having a round edge for the cutting such Wood as is to be Rounded or Hollowed These several sorts of Chissels Joyners have of several Sizes that they may be accommodated to do several Sizes of Work MECHANICK EXERCISES OR THE DOCTRINE OF HANDY-WORKS By Joseph Moxon late Member of the Royal Society and Hydrographer to King Charles II. LONDON Printed and Sold by J. Moxon 1694. MECHANICK EXERCISES OR The Doctrine of Handy-Works Continued in the ART of JOYNERY § 15. Of the Square and its Use. THE Square marked D is two adjunct Sides of a Geometrical Square a The Handle b The Tongue c The Outer Square d The Inner Square For Joyner's use it is made of two pieces of wood the one about an Inch thick and the other about a quarter of an Inch thick These two pieces are severally shot exactly straight and have each of their Sides parallel to each of there own Sides The thick Piece called the Handle hath a Mortess in it as long within a quarter of an Inch as the thin piece called the Tongue is broad and stifly so wide as to contain the thickness of the Tongue The Tongue is fastned into the Mortess of the Handle with Glew and wooden pins so as the two outer sides and then consequently the two inner sides may stand at right Angles with one another The Reason why the Handle is so much thicker than the Tongue is because the Handle should on either side become a Fence to the Tongue And the reason why the Tongue hath not its whole breadth let into the end of the Handle is because they may with less care strike a line by the side of a a thin than a thick piece For if instead of holding the hand upright when they strike a line they should hold it never so little inwards the shank of a Pricker falling against the top edge of the Handle would throw the Point of a Pricker farther out than a thin piece would to avoid which Inconvenience the Tongue is left about half an Inch out of the end of the Handle Another Reason is That if with often striking the Pricker against the Tongue it becomes ragged or uneven they can with less trouble plane it again when the stuff is all the way of an equal strength than they can if cross-grain'd Sholders be added to any part of it It s use is for the striking of Lines square either to other Lines or to straight sides and to try the squareness of their Work by As if they would strike a Line square to a side they have already shot They apply the inside of the Handle close to the side shot and lay the Tongue flat upon the work then by the outerside of the Tongue they draw with a Pricker a straight line this is called Striking or drawing of a Square Or if they would Try the squareness of a Piece of stuff shot on two adjoining sides they apply the insides of the Handle and Tongue to the outsides of the stuff and if the outsides of the stuff do all the way agree in Line with the insides of the Square it is true Square Or if they would try the inward squareness of work they apply the two outsides of the Square to the insides of the work § 16. The manner of Plaining and Trying a piece of Stuff square We will take for Example a Piece of Stuff called a Quarter which is commonly two Inches thick four Inches broad and seven Foot long To plane this Square lay one of its broad sides upon the Bench with one of its ends shov'd pretty hard into the Teeth of the Bench-hook that it may lie the steddier Then with the Fore-Plane as you were taught § 2. Number 2. Plane off the roughness the Saw made at the Pit and work that side of the Quarter as straight in its length and breadth as you can with the Fore-Plane which you may give a pretty good guess at if the edge of the Iron have born all the way upon the work yet you may try by taking up your work and applying one end of it to one Eye whilst you wink with the other and observe if any Hollow or Dawks be in the length if not you may conclude it pretty true For the work thus held the Eye will discern pretty nearly Or for more certainty you may apply the edge of the two-foot Rule or rather a Rule shot the full length of the Quarter to your work and if it agree all the way with the Rule you may conclude it is straight in length But if you find it not straight you must still with the Fore-Plane work off those Risings that bear the edge of the Rule off any part of the Stuff Then try if the Breadth be pretty straight if it be the Dawks the roughness the Fore Plane made excepted the first office of the Fore Plane is perform'd If it be not you must straighten the Breadth as you did the Length But though this Quarter
Grain upwards and downwards as it grew It hath three Leges in it that stand stradling out from the underside of the Block to the Floor and of such an height as the Workman may have most Command of the Work See the Figure Sometimes Turners use instead of it a piece of the Trunk of a Tree of about a Foot and an half or two Foot in length from the Ground or more or less § XI Of the Callippers THE Callippers is marked O in Plate 13. As common Compasses described Numb 6. § 32. are for measuring Distances upon a plain Superficies so Callippers measure the distance of any round Cilindrick Conical Body either in their Extremity or any part less than the Extream So that when Workmen use them they open the two points a a to their described width and Turn so much Stuff off the intended place till the two points of the Callippers fit just over their Work so shall their Work have just the Diameter in that place as is the distance between the two points of the Callippers be it either Feet or Inches c. § XII Of the Drill-Bench THere is yet another Tool or rather a Machine used by some Turners called a Drill-Bench It is described in Plate 14. a a a a a thick Board about three Inches thick five Inches broad and eighteen Inches long b b two Stiles placed towards either end and fastned upright In the hithermost Stile is a Coller described § 7. and Plate 13. H or any of the other Collers And in the further Stile is fitted a square flat tempered piece of Steel having a Center-hole in the middle of it and is placed just against the Center or middle point of the Hole of the Coller c c the Rowler whose hither end is Turned away so as it just fit into the Coller and at the further end of it it hath a temper'd Steel Pin to be placed in the Center-hole And in the middle of the hither end of it it hath a Piercer-Bit fastned straight in so that it lie in a true straight Line with the Axis of the Rowler Of these Rowlers they have several and Bits of different sizes fitted into them that upon all occasions they may chuse one to fit their purpose On the under-side about the middle of the Bench is fitted and fastned athwart it a square Iron Coller deep enough to reach through the Cheeks of the Lathe and so much deeper as it may receive a Wooden Wedge such a one as belongs to one of the Puppets And by the force and strength of the Wedge the whole Drill-bench is drawn down and fastned athwart the Cheeks of the Lathe When it is used it stands athwart the Cheeks of the Lathe as aforesaid with the point or end of the Bit towards you and then the String being turned twice or thrice about the Rowler will with Treading on the Treddle turn the Rowler and its Bit forcibly about and cause it to enter swiftly into a piece of Wood that shall be prest forwards upon the Bit. When they use it they hold the piece of Wood they intend to Drill or Pierce fast in both their Hands right before them and press it forwards upon the Piercer-Bit so that by its running about it cuts a straight round hole into the Wood of what length they please But while the Pole is rising after every Tread they press not against the Piercer-Bit so that it is dis-ingaged from doing its Office in the Wood but in that while they nimbly give the Wood a turn in their hands of about one third part of its Circumference which makes the Bit very successive Tread go the straighter through the middle of the Wood And thus they reiterate Treads and keep the Wood turning in their Hands till the Bit is enter'd deep enough Thus much of the Tools used in common Turning I shall proceed to the Working a Pattern or two in Soft Wood which being well understood may render a Practicer capable of most common Work § XIII Of Turning a Cilinder in Soft Wood THE Soft Wood Turners Use is commonly either Maple Alder Birch Beech Elm Oak Fir c. and for some particular purposes each of these sorts are best The First Pattern we purpose shall be a Cilinder two Inches over and eight Inches long Therefore you must chuse a piece of Wood at lest two Inches and a quarter over lest you want Stuff to work upon Nay if your Stuff prove shaken or otherwise unsound or your Center be not very exactly pitcht you may want yet more Stuff and that according as it proves more or less faulty or as the Centers are more unequally pitcht But supposing the Stuff good you may take a piece of two Inches and a quarter over as I said before and about ten or eleven Inches long For though the length of the Cilinder be but eight Inches yet you must cut your Stuff long enough to make a Groove at one end of it besides for the String to run in If your Stuff be somewhat too big for your Scantlin and not round enough to go into the Lathe you must Hew it pretty near with the Hatchet to make it sizable and afterwards smoothen it nearer with a Draw-knife as you were taught Numb 7. § 5. But if you have not Stuff at hand near your size then you must Saw off your length from a Billet or some other piece of Stuff and with the Cleaving-knife and the Mawl split it into a square piece near the size and with the Draw-knife round off the Edges to maks it fit for the Lathe Then set your Puppets and wedge them tight up so as the Points of your Spikes stand pretty near the length of your Work assunder and move the Pole so as the end of it may hang over between the Pikes and also fit the Iron Pin in the Treddle into a proper Hole in the Cross-Treddle so as the end of the Treddle may draw the String below the Work into pretty near a straight Line with the string above the Work And take the Work in your Right hand and put it beyond the String before you and with your left hand wind the String below the Work but once about the Work lest it should be too strong for your shallow Centers as you shall understand by and by and then with a pretty strength press the middle of one end of your Work over the Point of one of the Pikes and so make a hole in your Work for one of the Center holes Then screw your Pike wider or closer according as the length of your Work requires and pitch the other end of your Work upon the other Pike also and screw your Work a little lightly up Then try how the Centers are pitcht by Treading the Treddle lightly down and if you find the Centers are well pitcht you may without more ado screw up your Work tight But if your Centers or either of them be not well pitcht
you must alter them You may know when they are well pitcht by treading softly upon your Treddle and holding your Finger steddy on the Rest direct the point of it pretty close to the Work For if in a Revolution of your Work its Outside keeps it an equal distance from the end of your Finger you may conclude your Work is well pitcht But if you find one side of your Work comes nearer your Finger than the other side you must with your Flat Chissel or Gouge or what is nearest at hand knock softly or hard upon that side that comes nearest to your Finger till you have forc'd the Pikes into the true Centers at the end of your Work and then you may boldly screw it hard up But you must be sure to screw it hard up because it is Soft Wood you purpose to work upon and the strength of the Pole may endanger the drawing or removing the Centers if the Pikes have not good hold of them Having found your Centers take your Work again off the Pikes and wind the String once or twice more about your Work that your String as I said in Numb 10. § 1. when I wrote of the String may the better command it and then wind off or on more String at the end of your Pole or end of your Treddle or both if your Work require it till the Pole draws the Treddle up a little above half the length of the Legs of the Lathe For about the height your Leg may without sudden trying command the Pole down again But before you begin to work upon the Stuff I shall inform you how to Tread the Treddle In which you may observe this General Rule That the nearer the Fore-end of the Treddle you Tread the easier you bring down the Pole But then the Pole in its Spring rases your Leg the higher and may draw the upper side of your Thigh against the underside of the Cheek of the Lathe and with reiterated Risings Gawl and also tire your Thigh Place therefore your Foot steddy upon the Treddle so far forward as you can to avoid the Poles Rising from drawing your Thigh against the underside of the Lathe and Tread the Treddle nimbly down but not quite so low as to knock against the Floor Then abate the weight of your Tread and let the Pole draw the Treddle up but still keep your Foot steddy and lightly Bearing upon the Treddle For then your succeeding Treads will prove easier to your Leg and Thigh and you will with your Foot the better and quicker command the Treddle Then Tread again nimbly down as before and keep this Train of Treading till your Work be finish'd or that you may have occasion to stop and examine how rightly you proceed In all small Work the Tread is lightly and nimbly performed but in large and heavy Work the Tread comes slow and heavily down This being premised you may begin with your Gouge Lay the Round side of it upon the Rest and take the Handle of it in your Right hand and lay the Fore and Middle Fingers of your Left Hand upon the Hollow of the Gouge near the Work mounting the Edge about a quarter of an Inch above the Axis of your Work and sinking your Right hand a little for in this position the Gouge cuts best And thus cut down on your Work near one end a Groove for your String to run in The Groove may be about an Inch or an Inch and an half long But it matters not much what depth Then slip your String into the Groove and if you find the String will not slip easily you may put your Foot under the Treddle and lift it a little up that the String when no weight is hanged to it may slide the easier into the Groove And by the way you may take notice that the deeper you cut down the Groove the oftner will your Work come about every Tread because the String that comes down every Tread measure a small Circumference oftner than it does a greater Circumference But then the Work is not so strongly carried about because it hath a less portion of the String to command it This I hint not that in this our small proposed Pattern it is very considerable For if you only cut the Groove down but so low as there may be a Shoulder at the end and another against the Work to keep the String from slipping out of the Groove it will be sufficient But in heavy Work this Groove ought to be cut with discretion Now come to the Forming of your Work and hold your Gouge as you were taught before but somewhat lightly against your Work beginning at one end and sliding your Gouge gradually to the other cutting with its Edge all the way you go and bearing somewhat stiff against the Work every Tread you make on the Treddle And withdrawing it again a little lightly from the Work every Spring of the Pole And thus by Use you must habituate your self to let the Edge of your Tool bear upon the Work when the Pole and Treddle comes down and to draw it back just off the Work as the Pole and Treddle goes up And thus you must continue till you have rough-wrought all your work from end to end If you have not at first brought your Work clean that is if you have not gone deep enough with your Gouge to take off all the Risings of the Stuff the Draw-knife left even with the smallest part of your Work you must in like manner as before work it over again But you must have a special Care you take not too much Stuff away on any part of the whole Work For this proposed Pattern being a Cilinder if you take but a small matter too much away from any part and make it smaller than your given measure there the whole Work will be spoiled as being smaller than the proposed Diameter which to know you may by opening the Points of your Callippers to two Inches on your Rule the proposed Diameter of your Cilinder try if the Points at that distance will just slip over the deepest Grooves of your Work for we will not suppose that the Grooves are of an equal depth with the Rough-working of the Gouge without straining the Joint for then your Work is just sizeable If not work over again as before c. But we will now suppose you have not taken too much away but have made a due process with your Gouge Therefore now proceed and use a Flat Chissel about an Inch and an half broad to take off the Irregularities the Gouge left Take the Handle of it in your Right Hand as you did the Gouge and clasping the Blade of it in your Left Hand lean it steddy upon the Rest holding the Edge a little assant over the Work so as a Corner of the thin side of the Chissel may bear upon the Rest and that the Flat side of the Chissel may make a small Angle with
and Center Therefore take the Side-Rest described in § 1. Numb 10. ¶ 7. and Plate 83. at the Figure e and f g and fit it so into the Lathe as the upper edge of it may stand range or parallel to the side of the Board you are to work upon and so wedge it hard up Now you must come to use the Hook described Numb 12. § 5. and Plate 15 For this Tool is most commodious to serve you instead of the Gouge when the Work stands athwart the Pikes because the end of the Blade of this Tool being on its Flat side turned into a Circular Figure and that Circular Figure turned a little backwards one of the Edges of this Circular Figure will conveniently though the Tool be not held straight before the Work come at any part of the Flat of the Board and so by the Circulation of the Board against the Edge of the Hook cut off its irregular Extuberances In the using of this Tool you must place the end of the Handle under your Arm-pit and hold your left hand on the upper side of the Blade of the Tool close to the Rest and your Right hand close besides your Left Hand under the Tool and with both your hands clasp the Tool hard and press it steddy upon the Rest and at the same time hold it also steddy and yet lightly bearing against the Work that by the swift coming about of the Work it draw not the Edge of the thin and tender Blade of the Hook into it You must not hold the Blade of this Tool perpendicularly before the Work viz. parallel to the Pikes but aslant so as somewhat about the middle of the Convex of the Hook may touch against the Work You may begin at the Verge and so lay several Grooves close by one another till you come to the Center But you must observe as was said before in the Cilinder that you lay all your Grooves of an equal depth into the Board For if you lay one deeper than the rest and an Hollow may not properly be in that place you must again go over your work with your Hook to work that dawk out And then perhaps your Board may be made too thin for its intended purpose But this Craft of the Hand must be acquired with some continued Use and Practice which will better inform your Judgment what Errours you may be subject to commit than many words though significant upon this Doctrine And this I 'm sure I found when I first practised upon Turning Having thus with the Hook rough-plain'd the Board for this Hook does in Turning the Office of a Fore-plain in Joynery you must use the Triangular Grooving Tool described Numb 11. § 5. Plate 15. and with one of its Edges smoothen down the ridges the Hook left on the Board But if your Work require any Molding near the Verge or any other part of it you must work that Molding as near as you can with the Hook especially where Hollows are required for that cuts faster and smoother than any other Tool and most artificially forms an Hollow If a Flat be to be laid in the Board you must first use the Triangular Point Tool and with it strike so many Threds as the breadth of the Flat requires and lay each Thred almost so deep into the Board as you intend the Flat shall be And afterwards to smoothen it down you must use the Flat Grooving Tool or a Flat Chissel and with either of them finish the Flat to its intended Depth and Breadth And where a fine Thred or Circle is to be laid in the Board you must use the Triangular Point Tool And thus as you see occasion you must accommodate your self with a Tool apt and proper for your purpose viz. such a Tool as will most conveniently come at and from the intended Work MECHANICK EXERCISES OR The Doctrine of Handy-Works Applied to the ART of TURNING § XV. Of Turning Hard Wood and Ivory IF the Wood be very hard as Ebony Lignum Vitae or if it be Ivory Bone or Horn they are to Turn they neither use the same Tools they do for Soft Wood because their edge is too tender nor do they use their other Tools as they do soft Wood For the Tools made for Hard Wood are made with a stonger Point edge c. than they are for Soft as was said Numb 11. § 5. And they use them differently because for Turning Soft Wood they hold the Edge of the Gouge and Flat Chissel at some considerable Distance from the Rest mounting the Edge at such an Angle as will best cut off from the Work as great a Chip as they can or desire And as they Turn the Work smaller they guide the Chissel to follow the Work But for Hard Wood they raise the Rest near the Horizontal Plain of the Axis of the Work setting it as close as conveniently they can to their Work and lay their Tool flat and steddy upon the Rest which being hard held in this position does by the comming about of the Work cut or tear off all the Extuberances the Tool touches in the sweep of the Work So that as I said before as in Turning Soft Wood the Tool does somewhat follow the Work in Turning Hard Wood the Work comes to the Tool And therefore you may perceive a great reason they have to keep the Tool steddy For should it in one sweep of the Work be thrust nearer the Axis in any place it would there take off more than it should Having prepared the Work fit for the Lathe either with Hewing as hath been shewn Numb 5. § 7. and Numb 11. § 13. or as some Hard Woods and Ivory may require with Rasping they pitch it between the Pikes as before has been shewn or such Work as it may be as Boxes and generally all Hollow Work they fit into Collers either by screwing the Mandrel on an Iron Axis or fitting it with some other of the Mandrels described Numb 11. § 6. as is proper for it As sometimes they fit the Work tight into an Hollow Mandrel and the tight fitting in holds it whilst it is working upon And sometimes if the Work be very thin they fix it on a Flat Mandrel with Cement But they are always either to chuse one of the Mandrels described already in Numb 11. § 6. or else contrive as they often do some other Mandrel convenient to the opportunity that accidentally their Business may require For the Work whether it be pitcht on the Pikes or fitted into Hollow Mandrels or otherwise must run very steddy and tight about But having thus fitted it into the Lathe they begin to work with the Sharp-pointed Grooving Tool or else with the Triangular Grooving Tool and with the point of either of these Tools break the Grain of the Wood by laying small Grooves upon its Surface till they have pretty well wrought away Extuberances and brought the Work tollerably near an intended shape
by streightning hollowing and leaving Risings in their several proper places Afterwards with Edg'd Grooving Tools of a proper Breadth they cut down and smoothen away the Extuberances left by the Sharp-pointed Grooving Tool or the Triangular Grooving Tool and bring the Work into a perfect shape Which done they smoothen the work with the Edge of a piece of a Blade of a broken Knife basil'd away by following the Work with it That is holding the basil'd Edge of the Knife close against the Work while it comes about For then its sharp Edge scrapes or shaves off the little roughness the grosser Tools left upon the Work Lastly they hold either a piece of Seal-Skin or Dutch Reeds whose outer Skin or Filme somewhat finely cuts pretty hard against the Work and so make it smooth enough to polish Hard Wood they polish with Bees-Wax viz. by holding Bees Wax against it till it have sufficiently toucht it all over and press it hard into it by holding hard the edge of a Flat piece of hard Wood made sizable and suitable to the Work they work upon as the Work is going about Then they set a Gloss on it with a very dry Woollen Rag lightly smear'd with Sallad Oyl But Ivory they polish with Chalk and Water and afterwards dry it with a Woollen Rag and a light touch of Sallad Oyl which at last they rub off again with a dry Woollen Rag and so set a Gloss on it If there be a Screw to be made upon the thin Edge of an Ivory or Hard Wood or Brass Box they use the Screw Mandrel and its Socket described Numb 11. § 6. ¶ 4. and 5. as is shewn at the latter end of that Section § XVI Of Turning long and slender Work of Ivory SOme Turners to shew their Dexterity in Turning and make others that know not the way how it is done admire at their Skill Turn long and slender Sprigs of Ivory as small as an Hay-stalk and perhaps a Foot or more long which to perform they cut a piece of Ivory to its intended length but strong enough to bear working till they bring it to as small a Cilinder as they can which being thus forwarded they place a Joint Coller as is described Numb 11. § 7. made small and fit for their purpose just in the middle of their Work only that their Work may Bear at a smaller length and consequently be stronger for being thus supported while it is Turned yet smaller Then they place other Collers between the Pikes and the middle Coller and Turn the whole Cilinder slender yet And thus by placing Collers where ever they find the Work buckle they as aforesaid with Sharp Tools tender touches somewhat a loose and fine String weak Bow and great care and diligence work the whole Cilinder down as small as they list either with Moldings or other Work upon it as best likes them The properest Lathe to Turn this slender Work in is the Turn-Bench described § 18. Plate 16. § XVII Of the Brasiers Lathe and Turning Tools and their manner of using them BRasiers that Turn Andirons Pots Kettles c. have their Lathe made different from the Common Turners Lathe as you may see in Plate 16. at A. where the Cheeks Puppets and Rest c. are much stronger and the Pikes stronger and longer than those the common Turners use Their Edge Tools which they call Hooks are also of a different shape as the Figures of them described at B1 B2 B3 in the said Plate shew as being bent backwards and forwards towards the cutting end somewhat like an z. And as the common Turners work with a round String made of Gut as hath been described Numb 10. § 1. ¶ 14. The Brasiers work with a Flat Leather Thong which wrapping close and tight about the Rowler of their Mandrel commands it the easier and more forciably about Their Thong runs between the Cheeks of the Lathe The whole Lathe and its parts are made so strong because the Matter they Turn being Mettal is much heavier than Wood and consequently with forciable coming about would if the Lathe were sleight make it tremble and so spoil the Work as hath been said before The reason why the Hook is so turned backwards and again forwards towards the end is that they may the better direct the Edge of it as much below the Horizontal Plain of the Pikes as they list the better in many cases to come at the Work For contrary to Soft Wood Hard Wood and Ivory Turners they always dip the end of their Hook below the Rest that so the Hook resting very steddy upon the Rest and also against one of the Iron Pins standing upright in the Rest and held very steddy forwards to the Work the strong coming about of the Work against the strong Edge of the Hook scrapes off the extuberant Mettle lying in that Sweep I need no further describe the Lathe and other Tools that belong to Brasiers Turning or more of the manner of using them because by the whole preceding Discourse these Arguments are largely and sufficiently handled especially considering I have given you the Figures of them in Plate 16. as aforesaid Only their way of Whetting their Tools being different from the Whetting of other Turning Tools I shall say somewhat to For they Whet their Hooks upon a broad Flat Slate holding the Hook almost perpendicular that the Basil of its Edge may comply with the Flat of the Slate with clasping the upper end of the Handle in their left hand to lean the heavier on it and clutching the Shank of the Blade near the Hook-end in the right hand to guide it And thus with Spittle or Water rub forwards and backwards on the Slate till they have sharpned the Edge of the Hook But if it be a Round end Hook they whet they chuse a Groove in the Slate fit to comply with the round edge of the Hook for they have different sized Grooves in the Slate for that purpose and so in it rub forwards and backwards as aforesaid § XVIII Of Turning Small Work of Brass or other Mettle SMall Work in Mettal is Turned in an Iron Lathe called a Turn-Bench The Figure of it is described in Plate 16. at C. When they use it they screw it in the Chaps of a Vice and having fitted their Work upon a small Iron Axis with a Drill-Barrel fitted upon a square Shank at the end of the Axis next the left hand they with a Drill-bow and Drill-string carry it about as was shewn Numb 1. fol. 6 7. with this difference that when a Hole is drill'd in a piece of Mettal they hold the Drill-bow in their Right Hand but when they Turn Small Work they hold the Drill-bow in their left hand and with their right hand use the Tool which is commonly a Graver or sometimes a Sculpter fit to such Moldings as are to be made on the Mettal They begin to work first with the sharp point of
a Graver laying the Blade of it firm upon the Rest and directing the point to the Work and lay Circles upon it close to one another till they have wrought it pretty true Then with one of the broad Edges of the Graver they smoothen down what the Point left and afterwards with Sculpters Round or Flat or great or small they work their intended Moldings The Circumstances and Considerations in the choice of a Drill-bow and Drill-string for Turning are the same with what you find Numb 1. fol. 6 7. for Drilling § XIX Of laying Moldings either upon Mettal or Wood without fitting the Work in a Lathe I Had soon after the Fire of London occasion to lay Moldings upon the Verges of several round and weighty flat pieces of Brass And being at that time by reason of the said Fire unaccommodated of a Lathe of my own I intended to put them out to be Turned But then Turners were all full of Employment which made them so unreasonable in their Prizes that I was forc'd to contrive this following way to lay Moldings on their Verges I provided a strong Iron Bar for the Beam of a Sweep for the whole Tool marked in Plate 16 is by Mathematical Instrument-makers called a Sweep To this Tool is filed a Tooth of Steel with such Roundings and Hollows in the bottom of it as I intended to have Hollows and Roundings upon my Work For an Hollow on the Tooth makes a Round upon the Work and a Round upon the Tooth makes an Hollow on the Work even as they do in the Molding-Plains Joyners use Then I placed the Center-point of the Sweep in a Center-hole made in a square Stud of Mettal and fixed in the Center of the Plain of the Work and removed the Socket that rides on the Beam of the Sweep till the Tooth stood just upon its intended place on the Verge of the Work and there screw'd the Socket fast to the Beam To work it out I employ'd a Labourer directing him in his left Hand to hold the Head of the Center-pin and with his right Hand to draw about the Beam and Tooth which according to the strength he us'd cut and tore away great Flakes of the Mettal till it receiv'd the whole and perfect Form the Tooth would make which was as compleat a Molding as any Skilful Turner could have laid upon it Having such good Success upon Brass I improv'd the invention so as to make it serve for Wood also And made a Plain-Stock with my intended Molding on the Sole of it and fitted an Iron to that Stock with the same Molding the Sole had Through the sides of this Stock I fitted an Iron Beam to do the Office of the Beam I used for the Sweep viz. to keep the Plain always at what position I listed from the Center for thus the Iron in the Plain wrought about the Center even as the Tooth in the Sweep before rehearsed and to that purpose I made a round Hole of about half an Inch Diameter near the end of the Iron Then in the Center of the Work I fixed a round Iron Pin exactly to fit the said round Hole putting the round Hole over the Pin and fitting the Iron into the Stock commodious to work with I used this Plain with both Hands even as Joyners do other Plains For the Iron Pin in the Hole of the Beam kept it to its due distance from the Center so that neither hand was ingaged to guide it But note The Stock of this Plain was not straight as the Stocks of other Plains are but by Hand cut Circular pretty near the size of the Diameter of the intended Molding And yet was made to slide upon the Beam farther from or nearer to the Center as different Diameters of Verges might require § XX. To Turn several Globes or Balls of Ivory within one another with a Solid Ball in the middle YOU must first Turn your Ivory Ball or Globe truly round of your intended Diameter Then describe a Circle exactly through the middle or Equinoctial of the Globe Divide that Circle into four equal parts and pitch one point of a pair of Compasses in one of those Divisions and extend the other point to either of the next Divisions and describe with it a Circle round about the Globe Then remove the standing point of the Compasses to either of the next Divisions in the Equinoctial and in like manner describe another Circle round about the Globe But note that the moving Point of your Compasses must be somewhat bended inwards For else its point will not describe a Circle on the greatest Extuberances of the Globe but will slide off it Thus shall the Ball or Globe be divided into eight Spherical Quadrants Describe as great a Circle as you can in each of these Quadrants and each two Centers of every two opposite Circles shall have an imaginary Axis pass between them And if the Globe be successively pitcht upon all the rest of the Centers so as the imagined Axis passing between it and its opposite Center lie in a straight line with the Pike and the Center of the Coller it is Turned in the working out of all the Hollows on the Ball will be but common Turners Work as you will find hereafter This is in brief the Theory But to the Practice You must use an Hollow Mandrel made sit stifly to receive the convexity of the Globe in its concavity so as it may stick firmly in the Mandrel in its position And you must take care that in pitching the Globe into the Mandrel that the imaginary Axis of the Globe which is the Line passing between the two Centers of the two opposite Circles as aforesaid lie in a straight Line with the Axis of the Mandrel which you may know by examining whether the Circle described with your Compasses as aforesaid on the Center aforesaid wabble not in a whole Revolution of the Globe from the point of a Tool applied steddy to it Having thus pitcht the Globe true and fixt it fast into the Mandrel you must begin to work with the Triangular Grooving Point described Numb 11. § 5. and Plate 15. placing the point of it pretty near the Center of the Circle and work into the Ball with the Grooving Point and so by degrees make a Hollow in the Ball so deep and so wide as you think convenient I mean so deep from the Superficies of the Globe towards the Center of the Globe and so wide from the Center of the Circle described on the Superficies of the Globe towards that Circle as it may have a convenient Substance between this Hole and the next intended to be Turned Thus must every one of the eight Circles described on the Globe be successively by the same Rule and after the same manner be pitcht outwards and fixt into the Mandrel and then Hollowed out as the first was Where note that every Hollow is to be Turned to the same depth and
of a Bevil streigth on the line K L bring the Tongue to touch the under side of the first Course of the Scheam then take up the Bevil and set that Bevil line upon the Sommering Mould of the Scheam which Bevil line serves for each Course in the Scheam but you must take the Bevil of each Course in the Hanse and set them upon your Sommering Mould by themselves and Number them with 1 2 3 4 c. because each Course varies Thus having made your Sommering Moulds in the next place you must make the Moulds for the length of your Stretchers and for the breadth of the Headers and the Closiers a piece of Wainscot 7 Inches long and 3 Inches and an half broad will serve for the length of the Stretchers and the breadth of the Headers the Closiers will be 1 Inch and 3 4 broad So the Closier will be half the breadth of the Header and the Header half the length of the Stretcher which will look well It remains now to speak something to the other part of the Arch to wit A D whose Courses both in Hanse and Scheam run alike upon the Ellipsis Lines and seem of one bigness although perhaps there may be some small matter of difference by reason I have not divided the Courses to this Figure from a right Angle but every Course from the Angle which it makes with the Ellipsis which I chose rather to do that so the Bevil of one Course might not seem to run more upon the Ellipsis than the Bevil of another and the difference of the thicknesses being so inconsiderate is not discerned Having described both the Ellipsis lines A D E G divide each of them into a like number of equal parts always remembring to make each Division on the upper Ellipsis line no greater than the thickness of the Brick will contain when it is wrought then through each Division in both the Ellipses draw streight lines continuing them 4 or 5 Inches above the upper Ellipsis Line and as much below the Lower Ellipsis Line then having provided some thin Sheets of fine Pastboard about 20 Inches square cutting one edge streight take one sheet and lay the streight edge even upon the line A E so that it may cover both the Ellipsis lines and being cut to advantage it may cover 8 courses or 9 of the streight Lines having laid it thus upon the figure of the Arch stick a Pin or two through it to keep it in its place then lay a Ruler upon the Past-board true to the 7 8 or 9th streight Line of the Arch according as the Past-board is in bigness to cover them and take a sharp Pen-knife laying the Ruler upon the Past-board true to the streight line whose ends being continued longer than the Arch is deep as I directed before will be seen beyond the Past-board and cut the Past-board true to the Line then take another sheet and join to it and cut it as you did the first so continue till you have covered the Arch from AE just to the line DG sticking Pins in each Sheet to keep them in the places where you lay them Then describe both the Ellipsis lines upon the Pastboard from the same Centres and Radii that you described the Ellipsis's under the Past-board and either divide the Ellipsis lines with the Compasses on the Past-board or else draw lines upon the Past-board from or by the streight lines underneath them whose ends you see but the surer way is to divide the Ellipsis's on the Past-board and draw Lines through those Divisions as you did beneath the Past-board then set 7 Inches being the length of each Stretcher from A towards E and from D towards G and describe from the former Centres the Ellipsis o o through each other course on the Past-board as you may see in the Fig. also set three Inches and an half being the breadth of the Header from A towards E and likewise from D towards G Also set the same 3 Inches and an half from E towards A and from G towards D and describe these two Ellipsis lines from the same Centres through each Course which the Ellipsis line of the Stretchers miss'd likewise draw in the same Courses two other Ellipsis lines one Inch and 3 4 from each of those two Lines you drew last which is the breadth of the Closiers thus one Course of the Arch will be divided into two Stretchers and the next to it into three Headers and two Closiers through the whole Arch this being done cut the Past-board according to the lines into several Courses and each other Course into two Stretchers and the Heading-courses into three Headers and two Closiers exactly according to the Sweep of the balcklead lines and mark each Course with Figures marking the first Course of the Hanse with 1 the next with 2 the third with 3 and so continue till you have marked all the Courses to the Key or middle for every Course differs you were best to mark the lower Closier in each Course with a Cipher on the left hand of its own number that you may know it readily from the upper Closier and make no mistakes when you come to set them also the middle Headers in each Course should be marked besides its own number the thickness of the upper Header being easily discerned from the lower Header needs no marking besides its own number the cross Joints and likewise the under side and upper side of each Course must be cut circular as the Past-boards which are your Moulds direct you If you will add a Keystone and Chaptrels to the Arch as in the Figure let the breadth of the upper part of the Keystone be the height of the Arch viz. 14 Inches and Sommer from the centre at I then make your Chaptrels the same thickness that your lower part of the Keystone is and let the Keystone break without the Arch so much as you project or Sale over the Jaums with the Chaptrels Other kind of Circular Arches as half Rounds and Scheams being described from one Centre are so plain and easy that I need say nothing concerning them But since Streight Arches are much used and many Workmen know not the true way of describing them I shall write something briefly concerning them Streight Arches are used generally over Windows and Doors and according to the breadth of the Piers between the Windows so ought the Skew-back or Sommering of the Arch to be for if the Piers be of a good breadth as 3 or 4 Bricks in length then the Streight Arch may be described as it s vulgarly said from the Oxi which being but part of a Word is taken from the word Oxigonium signifying an Equilateral Triangle with three sharp Angles but if the Piers are small as sometimes they are but the length of two Bricks and sometimes but one Brick and an half then the breadth of the Window or more may be set down upon the middle Line for the