rest called New-graft and Altkirkhoffe and there is a pleasant walke well shaded with trees vpon the banke of the Riuer In the midst of the City is the Cathedrall Church hauing a faire Tower and a Bell which they report to be of eighteene thousand pounds weight Neere to the same is the Bishops Pallace wherein the Bishops dwelt before the vnion of the Prouinces but at this time there dwelled the Countesse of Meurs whose husband died in these warres In the same part lie the market place and the Senate house The houses of the City are of bricke and fairely built but lose much of their beautie by being couered on the outside with boords and they seeme to haue more antiquitic then the buildings of Holland There be thirty Churches but onely three are vsed for diuine seruice In Saint Maries Church which as I remember is the Cathedrall Church these verses are written vpon a piller Accipe posteritas quod per tua secula narres Taurinis culibus fundo solidata columna est Posterity heare this and to your children tell Bull hydes beare vp this piller from the lowest hell Vpon a second piller this is written in Latine A Frison killed the Bishop because hee had learned of him being drunke and betrayed by his sonne the Art to stop a gulfe in this place the yeere 1099. Vpon a third piller this is written in Latine The Emperour Henry the fourth built this Church to our Lady because hee had pulled downe another Church at Milane dedicated to her And to my vnderstanding they shewed me at this time manifest signes of the aforesaid gulfe which these inscriptions witnesse to haue beene in this place Heere I paied for my supper twenty stiuers and for my breakefast six stiuers From hence I went to Amsterdam fiue miles in three houres space and paied for my passage in the waggon ten stiuers For halfe the way on both sides wee had faire pastures and saw many strong Castles belonging to Gentlemen Neere Vtrecht at the passage of a riuer each man paid a Doight and before wee came to the halfe way we passed the confines of this Bishopricke and entred the County of Holland Then in the space of two houres and a halfe we came to Amsterdam hauing in our way on both sides faire pastures On Friday in the beginning of the Month of Iuly at fiue a clocke in the euening I tooke ship vpon the Mast whereof was a garland of Roses because the master of this ship then wooed his wife which ceremony the Hollanders vsed And the sea being calme wee passed eight miles to Enchusen where wee cast anchor By the way wee passed a shole where our sterne struck twise vpon the sand not without feare of greater mischiese On Saturday we'sayeld betweene West Freesland vpon our right hands towards the East and Holland vpon our left hands towards the West and after tenne miles sayling came to the Iland Fly which being of small compasse and consisting of sandy hils hath two villages in it From hence they reckon twenty eight miles by sea to Hamburg in Germany whether we purposed to goe Assoone as wee cast anchor here the Master of our ship went aboard the Admirall of certaine ships which vsed to lie here to guard this mouth of the sea with whom hee spake concerning our passage to Hamburg and deliuered him Letters commanding that our ship should haue a man of war to wast it This Admirall lay continually in this harbour to guard this passage into the sea and he commanded nine ships which were vpon all occasions to wast the Hollanders to Hamburg and defend them from the Dunkirkers and all Pirats But at this time there was not one of these men of warre in the harbour and the Admirall himselfe might not goe forth So as for this cause and for the tempestious weather wee staied here all Sunday But vpon Monday the winde being faire for vs and contrary for the men of warre that were to come in so that losing this winde we must haue expected not without great irkesomnesse a second winde to bring in some of these men of warre and a third winde to carry vs on our iourney the Master of our ship carrying sixe great Peeces and hauing some tenne Muskets did associate himselfe with seuen other little ships hauing only Pikes and swords and so more boldly then wisely resolued to passe to Hamburg without any man of warre This Monday morning we hoysed saile but being calmed at noone we cast anchor between the Fly on our left hand toward the West and another little Iland Shelling on our right hand towards the East and lying here wee might see two little barkes houering vp and downe which wee thought to be Fisher-men and nothing lesse then Pirats of Dunkirke Here till euening we were tossed by the waues which vse to bee more violent vpon the coast but a faire winde then arising all our shippes gladly weighed anchor At which time it happened that the anchor of our ship brake so as our consorts went on but our Master according to the nauall discipline not to put to sea with one anchor returned backe to the harbour of the Fly there to buy a new anchor all of vs foolishly cursing our fortune and the starres On Tuesday morning while wee sadly walked on the shoare vvee might see our consorts comming backe with torne sailes and dead men and quarters of men lying on the hatches We beholding this with great astonishment tooke boat to board them and demanding the newes they told vs that the little barks we saw the day before vvere Dunkirkers hauing in each of them eighty Souldiers and some few great Peeces and that they had taken them spoiled their ships of their chiefe lightest goods and had carried away prisoners to Dunkirk all the passengers chief Marriners after they had first wrung their foreheads with twined ropes with many horrible tortures forced them to confesse what money they had presently what they could procure for ransom Further with mourning voice they told vs that the Pirats inquired much after our ship saying that was it the bride with whom they meant to dance cursing it to be destroyed with a thousand tuns of diuels swearing that if they had foreseene our escape they would haue assailed vs by day while we rode at anchor They added that they had left no goods but those they could not carry for weight and had changed their ragged shirts and apparell with the poore Marriners And indeed they had iust cause to bewaile the escape of our shippe being laded with many chests of Spanish Ryalls whereof they were not ignorant vsing to haue their spies in such places who for a share in the booty would haue betrayed their very brothers As we had iust cause to praise almighty God who had thus deliuered vs out of the lawes of death so had wee much more cause to bewaile our rashnesse yea and our wickednesse that
of a Lyon and vpon the other stands the marble statua of Saint Theodor. The statua of Saint George beares a shield in token that Venice rather defends it selfe then offends others since the right hand carries a defensiue weapon Behind the Library is the Mint house vulgarly called La zecca whereupon I thinke the gold coyne of the Venetians is called Zecchino in which house it is remarkeable that there is no wood in any part thereof but for feare of fire it is all built with stone bricke and barres of iron Here the great statuaes of Gyants lifting vp their massie clubs as it were forbidding the entrance and in the court yard the statua of Apollo holding wedges of gold in his hand to shew that gold is made to grow in the bowels of the earth by the vertue of the sunne are things remarkeable From hence on rhe left hand is the market place which I said to be the first of the Pallace seated betweene the channell the Pallace And from hence on the right hand is the fish market in which as likewise in that of Rialto store of good fish is to bee bought twice in the day The market place in which the said Bel-frey and Library are built is also adorned with the stately Pallace of the Duke all couered with Marble and most sumptuous in the carued Images and pictures and in the pillers of the Arched walke on the outside The first staires towards the second market place of the Pallace and ouer against the said Library are very stately and are vulgarly called Scala de Giganti that is the staires of the Giants so called of two huge Marble statuaes of Mars and Neptune which the common people call Giants But the Pallace hath many other staires whereby men ascend thereunto Opposite to the aforesaid statuaes are two other of Adam and Eue but not so great as they and not farre from thence is a stone guilded with an inscription which the Senate placed there in memory of the French King Henry the third whom they entertained passing that way from Poland into France On the left hand is the Chappell of Saint Nicholas which is the Dukes priuate Chappell Hence you ascend into a large Hall as they call it or a large Gallery in the middest whereof the golden staites shine with gold and two marble Images and rare pictures On the left hand of the said staires is the passage to that part of the Pallace which is assigned to the Duke for his dwelling and in the first chamber called the Dukes Armes Sala del seudo the pictures of Christs resurrection and another of him crucified are much praised though it hath many other rare pictures When you haue ascended the golden staires your shall see foure rare pictures From thence the way on the left hand leads to the Chancery where many chambers are adioyning proper to diuers Councels of State all adorned with grauen Images and pictures of the best namely the chambers of the Councell rich in the painting of the arched roofe That of the Pregadi hauing generall rare painting and caruing That called Ia secreta in which the secret writings of the State is laied vp The Chappell of the Colledge where the Duke and the Senators daily heare Masse and it appeares by an inscription that the Antiquities were of old laid vp there among the pictures whereof that of Christs resurrection and the Map of the Territory of Venlce are much praised That of the Councell of Tenn in which the picture of the Wise-men offering gifts to Christ is much praised neere the same are chambers in which many rich Armors and rare Monuments are laid vp And that of the great Councell one hundred fifty foot in length and seuenty foure in breadth adorned round about with rare pictures namely on the side towards the foresaid second market place of the Pallace the History of Frederlcke the Emperour and of Pope Alexander the third is cursorily painted Towards the foresaid first market place lying betweene the Pallace and the channel the History of Constantinople taken by the Venetians and French is painted and the capitulation of the voyage made in the Church and the rest of the Saints in heauen are reputed rare workes The prisons of old were vnder this Pallace of the Duke but lately a new house is stately built of the stone of I stria for that vse neere the bridge Della Paglia The foure square market place of Rialto is compassed with publike houses vnder the arches whereof and in the middle part lying open the Merchants meet And there is also a peculiar place where the Gentlemen meet before noone as they meet in the place of Saint Marke towards euening and here to nourish acquaintance they spend an houre in discourses and because they vse not to make feasts one to another they keepe this meeting as strictly as Merchants lest their frinship should decay The Gold-smiths shoppes lie thereby and ouer against them the shoppes of Iewellers in which Art the Venetians are excellent There is the Pallace of a Gentleman who prouing a Traytor the State for his reproch turned the same into a shambles and some vpper chambers to places of iudgement The fish market lies by this shambles a great length along the banke of the great channell and in the same shambles and fish market as also in the like of Saint Marke great plenty of victuals especially of fish is daily to be sold. A publike Pallace stately built lieth neere the bridge of Rialto This bridge in the iudgement of the Venetians deserues to be reputed the eighth miracle of the world The old being pulled downe this new bridge began to bee built in the yeere 1588 and was scarce finished in three yeeres and is said to haue cost two hundred fifty thousand Duckets It is built of the stone of Istria vpon one arch ouer the great channell and the ascent to the toppe hath thirty sixe staires on each side and vpon each side of these staires are twelue little shoppes couered with lead not to speake of the carued Images of the blessed Virgin the Angell Gabriel and the two protecting Saints of the City namely Saint Marke and Saint Theodore Thereby is a Pallace called Il Fontico de i Todeschi because the Dutch Merchants haue it to their vse The Armory built for all kinde of Armes Munitions vulgarly called l' Arsenale as it were the Tower of the Senate is compassed with walles being in circuit more then two miles where some foure hundred Artificers are daily set on worke about naual prouisions and they receiue weekely for wages about one thousand two hundred duckets Within the same is a seueral place to make cables within the circuit hereof and no where else in the City they build Ships and Gallies and there bee alwayes in the same about two hundred gallies ready for seruice To conclude the State of Venice being not growne to full strength did in a hundred daies
bridles and if a man ride into a Towne vpon a Post-horse he must either goe away on foote or take another Post-horse there for no priuate man dare let him a horse which makes passengers loth to hier post-horses of returne though many times they may be had at good rate rather then he will returne emptie with them yet if a man will walke a mile or two he may easily hier a horse in other Townes which are frequent in Italy And let no man maruel that these Princes fauour the Post-masters and Inkeepers to the preiudice of strangers because in that respect they extort great rents from them By the way in the Village Bel ' Aria each of vs paid two bolinei for passage of a Riuer The Brooke Rubico now called Pissatello by this way to Rimini did runne from the West into the Adriatique sea and there of old was a Marble pillar with this inscription in Latin Here stay leaue thy Banner lay down thy Armes and leade not thy Army with their Colours beyond this Brooke Rubico therefore if any shall goe against the rule of this commaund let him be iudged enemie to the people of Rome c. And hereupon it was that Iulius Caesar returning out of France and first stopping here and then after he had seene some prodigious signes passing ouer this Brooke with his Army vttered words in Lattin to this effect Let vs goe whither the prodigics of the Gods and the sinnes of our enemies call vs. The Die is cast In the Market-place of Rimini is a monument of the same Caesar yet remaining where words in the Latin tongue are grauen in a stone to this effect The Consuls of Rimini did repaire this pulpit decaied with age in the moneths of Nouember and December in the yeere 1555. Vnder that is written Caius Caesar Dictator hauing passed Rubico here in the Market place of Rimini spake to his fellow souldiers beginning the ciuill warre In the same Market-place of Rimini is a pleasant Conduit of water The Citie hath no beautie and lyeth in length from the East to the West On the West-side is a bridge built by the Emperour Augustas which they hold to be very faire Towards the East is a Triumphall Arke built by the same Augustus with old inscriptions and a pinackle erected which shewes the Flaminian way to Rome and the Emilian way towards Parma I said that the Popes territory extendeth this way as high as Ancona and these inhabiters of Marca are accounted a wicked generation the greatest part of the cut-throtes and murtherers dispersed through Italy being borne in this Country Our Hoste vsed vs very ill demaunding of each of vs a poli for our bed and three polo for our supper and when we desired a reckoning demaunding for a little piece of an Ele one polo and a halfe and for three little Soles tenne bolinei besides that by the aforesaid priuiledge he forced vs being Post-master to take horses of him at what price he listed The next morning we rode fifteene miles to the Castle la Catholica where is a bridge diuiding the territories of the Pope and the Duke of Vrbine then we rode to Pesaro ten miles and each man paied for his horsefoure poli and all our way was through fruitful hills and little mountaines This Citie hath a faire round Market-place and a plesant Fountaine therein distilling water at eight pipes The aire is thought vnwholesome for which cause and the great plentie of fruit nothing is more frequent here then Funerals in the Moneth of August and the Inhabitants seldome liue to be 50 yeeres old each of vs paid a Polo for our dinner calling for what meate we liked and agreeing first for the price From hence to Ancona ate fortie fiue miles and wee hired three Horses for twentie fiue Poli with condition that our guide vulgarly called Veturale or Veturino should pay for his horse-meate and bring them backe againe After dinner we rode fiue miles to the little City Fano compassed with high walles of Flint and lying vpon a hill-side towards the sea and subiect to the Pope where we did see a triumphall arck of marble curiously engrauen Then we rode fifteene miles more to Senogalita a strong Citie and subiect to the Duke of Vrbin By the way we passed the Bridge Di Metro hauing foure-score Arches and the Bridge Di Marctta hauing fiftie Arches both built of wood and very low as seruing to passe ouer little Brookes which notwithstanding by reason of the Mountaines being neere doe often ouer-flow All this dayes iourney was by the Sea-shore on our left hand towards the North and fruitfull hills of corne towards the South ouer which hung the Apenine Mountaines whence many times the waters discend violently by reason of the narrow valley betweene the fea and the said Mountaines It is prouerbially said of the Magistrate of Senogallia il Podesta commanda fallo stesso that is The Gouernour commaunds and doth it himselfe whereby it seemes he is little esteemed The Citie is of a small circuit but very strong and the houses are built of bricke with a roofe something flat after the Italian fashion The Inne is without the gate and so the more comodious for strangers who may come late and departe earely which they could not do if their lodging were within the walls It is true that he who buyes hath need to sell for the Duke extorting great rent from the Inkeeper he in like sort oppresseth the passengers for a short supper at a common table each man payed foure Poli or Poali a coine so called of Pope Paul The next morning we rode fifteene miles to Fimesino and tenne to Ancona hauing the sea on our left hand towards the North and fruitfull mountaines on our right hand towards the South Fimesino is a Fort and belongs to the Pope but the Inne without the gate belongs to the Duke of Vrbine And againe when you haue passed the Bridge all the Territorie to Ancona is subiect to the Pope The Citie of Ancona is compassed with three Mountaines and hath the forme of a halfe Moone On the North side is a Mountaine vpon which the Gouernour dwelles and vpon the East side is another Mountaine and vpon the side of these two Mountaines the Citie is built to the valley and sea-side towards the North. On the South-side is the third Mountaine vpon which is the Castle called Capoaè Monte built in the same place where the Temple of Venus stoode and vpon this side the Citie is narrow there being no houses built vpon the Mountaine but onely in the valey vpon the sea The Pope hath souldiers in this Castle and thereby keepes the Citie in subiection for the Citizens long defended their liberty and how soeuer they were subiect to the Pope yet secretly chose their Magistrates euery yeere to the yeere 1532 at which time Pope Clement the seuenth built this Castle against the Turkish Pirates but
of birds Nightingales flying loose in the groues and the most pleasant prospect In this Castle Marino we made some stay to expect some passengers which were longer detained at Rome by their businesse And the Pope in this place giues sixty Horsemen Musqueters to accompany the Carrier vulgarly called Il Procaccia and to defend him from the spoyling of banished men vulgarly called Banditi And for this cause all passengers goe in this Carriers company neither dare any passe alone For these banished men lurking vpon the confines of the Popes State and the Kingdome of Naples many times make excursions as farre as these mountaines to doe robberies and the weeke last past they had killed many passengers and had robbed the Carrier who doth not onely beare letters but leades many Mules laded with goods The chiefe of these banished men was the Nephew so they call Church-mens bastards of the Cardinall Caietano who hauing eight thousand crownes yeerely reut in these parts was banished by the Pope and he vnderstanding that a Roman Gentleman passed with that Carrier who had great friends about the Pope and hoping to make his peace by taking him prisoner did for that cause assaile that Carrier and his guard till hearing that the Gentleman while they fought had escaped to the next City he withdrew himselfe his men into the mountainrs This danger from banished men makes the iourney to Naples very trouble some and it is not safe nor lawful for any man to leaue the company of this Carrier So as the passengers rise before day and take horse and so sitting all the day yet ride not abouc twenty miles for the slow pace of the mules and at noone they haue no rest onely when they haue the Inne in sight so as there is no danger of theeues they are permitted to gallop before that they may eat a morsell or rather deuoure it for as soone as the mules are past they must to horse againe euery man not onely making hast for his owne safety but the souldiers forcing them to be gone who are more slow then the rest To conclude the mules going a very slow pace it was very irkesome to the passengers to rise before day and to follow them step by step Hauing dined at Marino and our full company being come we together with our guard of horse-men rode eight miles to Velitri through wooddy mountaines infamous for the robberies of banished men and vpon our right hand towards the South and towards the Tyrrhene sea was a Lake vulgarly called Lago Nympao which the old Romans delighted with doing difficult things vsed to fill with sea water and therein to make nauall fights One wood by which we passed was more dangerous then the rest where the Pope maintaines forty foot to assist the Guard of horse till they haue passed the same The discent of the last mountaine neere Velitri was two miles long yet pleasant by reason of the multitude of Vines growing vpon short stakes which vse to yeeld the richest wine Velitri is by writers called Belitre an old City of the Volsci and famous for the birth of the Emperour Augustus and the dwelling of the Octauian Family The second day in the morning we rode thirteene or foureteene miles to Sermoneta and in the midst of the way our guard of horseleft vs and their trumpet asked of euery man a gift in curtesie which we gladly gaue and there new horsemen meeting vs tooke vpon them our guard After dinner we rode eight miles to a little towne La casa nnoua and fiue miles to an old City which Liuy callesh Priuernum yet other Co'mographers write that the ruines thereof lie in a plaine two miles off whereas this is seated vpon a mountaine yet growing to a City by the decay of the former is called Priuernum and vulgarly Piperno We passed through wooddy mountaines full of Oliue trees on the right hand and a fruitfull plaine of corne and many Orchards of Orange trees and like fruits on the left hand And among the mountaines on the right hand the most remote was called Circello of the famous Witch Circe and it is a Promontory hanging ouer the sea where at this day they shew the cup in which Vlisses drunke the inchanted potion and vnder the hollow caues of this mountaine the Turkish Pirates lurke in the summer time and rob the Christians The last fiue miles of our iourney all the passengers and souldiers were put before the Carrier and his Mules for then we turned out of the plaine towards mountaines on the left hand where as they said the banished men had the weeke before assailed the Carrier After we had dined the horse-men left vs and certaine foot did after guide vs from one City to another The third day in the morning we had a guard of horse-men and rode twelue miles to Terracina an old City so called in the time of the Emperour Tiberius and we passed through a fertile plaine of corne on the right hand towards the Sea and stony hils full of Oliue trees on the left hand towards the Land and many vineyards and ruines of houses neere the City After we had this morning rode two miles we passed by an old Monastery called la Badia della fossa nuoua where they haue a monument of Saint Thomas Aquinas but his body was carried to the City Tolouse in France when the French-men had the Kingdome of Naples And after we had rode ten miles our guard of horse left vs and certaine foot meeting vs conducted vs other 2 miles In this way the waters in many places at the foot of the hils did stinke of brimstone but infinite Laurel trees on all sides refreshed our smel Terracina in the flourishing time of Rome was called Anxur and it is seated vpon a mountaine as most of the foresaid Cities are and it lieth vpon the sea which the land imbraceth like a halfe Moone this Citie lying vpon one horne thereof and the Citie Caieta vpon the other of which Citie the Cardinall had name who did oppose himselfe to Luther The flouds of the sea make great noise with striking vpon hollow caues of Rocks A souldier came out of the Tower of Torracina and demaunded of euery man fiue baocci which we paid though it were onely due from them who had portmanteaues with locks Neere this City we did see the ruines of a stately Theater After dinner we rode ten miles to the City Fondi through a stony way being part of the old way of Appius and vpon the right hand we had a plaine towards the sea and vpon the left hand rockey Mountaines towards the land where wee passed by the Citie Monticello At the mid-way the Popes guard hauing left vs we came to two old ruined walles shutting vp the way and lying from the Mountaine to the sea This place called Sportelle deuides the territories of the Pope and the King of Naples and is kept by a Garison of Spaniards I remember
20. Ardeatina 21. Galica 22. Tiberina 23. Settimia 24. Quintia 25. Gallicana 26. Triumphalie 27. Praetoriana 28. Laticulesen 29. Aureliana And vpon these waies hee relates many stately Pallaces built out of the Citie Now I will note the waies without the Gates by the same letters by which I haue noted the Gates leading to them Among these the most famous is the way of Appius called the Queene of waies most part of the chiefe Triumphes entring that way It begins at the Gate of Saint XII Sebastian and is paued to Capua and then deuided into two waies that on the left hand leading to Brundusium and that on the right hand leading to Pozzoli and to Cuma hauing stately Pallates on all sides and it hath the name of Appius Claudius the Censor In this way two miles from the Citie the Romans built a Temple in memory of Hannibal who incamping there was forced to raise his siege with disgrace The way of Flamintus is no lesse famous which lies from the Pillar of Antoninus 11 to the Gate IIII del popolo and did leade to Rim. ni vpon the Adriatique Sea and part of it was called Quincia and it was ioyned with the way called Claudia and of old was called the large way Where the way of Flaminius endes there begins the way AEmilia made by his fellow Consul AEmilius Lepidus leading to Bologna and paued to the very Alpes Yet there is another way of the same name neere Pisa. The way Collatina is without the Gate V Pinciana the way Salaria without the Gate VI Salaria the way Tihurtina without the Gate VIII Saint Lorenzo the way Praenestina without the Gate IX Maggiore on the left hand or East-side and the way Labicana on the right hand or South-side of the same Gate In the way Praenestina is the stately Conduit or Aqueduct of Pope Sixtus Quintus extending it selfe many miles vpon the next Plaine where lie the ruines no lesse wonderfull whereof I spake in my iourney from Rome to Naples To conclude the way Latina is without the Gate XI Latina the way Ostiensis without the Gate Saint XIII Paolo the way Aurelia without the Gate XV Saint Pancratio which if I be not deceiued was called also the way Vitelia paued from the Mount Ianiculo to the Sea But who would not wonder that from the Gate XIX Portusa the way should leade into the Valley of Hell for so it is called close to the holy Seate of the Popes Rome was of old called Septicollis of seuen Hilles or little Mountaines contained within the walles namely Capitolinus Palatinus Auentinus Celius Esquilinus Viminalis and Quirinalis Hereof the first and chiefe is XXII Capitolinus of old called Saturnius of the Citie Saturnia and Tarpeius of the Virgin Terpeia which betraying her Countrey to the Sabines giuing them entrance at that place was for reward there killed by them And at last in the raigne of Tarquin the proud it was called Capitolinus of a head digged out of the ground At this day it is vulgarly called Il Capidoglio It is diuided into two parts namely the Capitolium and the Rocke Tarpeius lying on the Northside of the hil And it had sixty Churches wherof the chiese was of old dedicated Ioni Optimo Maximo where the Triumphers vsed to giue thanks for victory and to offer rich spoiles to Iupiter And it was adorned with the stately building of the Capitolium and with many stately Palaces of noble men The second Mount is called XXIII Palatinus of Palantus Grand-father to Euander among many diuers opinions following Virgil At this day it is vulgarly called Palazzo Maggiore and it is a mile in circuit but is not at all inhabited And vpon the side lying towards the Circus they shew a little house in the place where Romulus dwelt onely preserued in memory of him And vpon this Mount Catilina and Catullus and Cicero did dwell The third mountaine was called XXIIII Auentinus of birds by whose flight they vsed to prophecy or of the King Auentinus And it was of old called Romorio of a place in the top where they obserued the flight of the birds and it hath two miles in compasse The fourth Mount is XXV Celius of Celius King of Hetruria and was of old called Querquetulanus of a Wood of Oakes And a little Mountaine being part of it is vulgarly called Celiolus where I shall shew the Church of Saint Iohn the Euangelist to bee seated Vpon this Mountaine was the house of Scipio the Africane neere the Church of Saint George The fifth Mountaine was called XXVI Esquilinus or Esquilia of the guard of the Pretorian souldiers or of the fragments of meate cast there to feede hawkes It reacheth from the Market-place of Traian to the Baths of Dioclesian and the Gate of S. Lorenzo and the monument of Marius vulgarly called I Trofei And at this day it is called Cespius and they say that Virgil dwelt vpon this Mountaine The sixth Mount was called XXVII Viminalis being long and narrow and some say it is part of the Mount Esquiline but all writers generally reckon it among the seuen hills and it had the name of the Church of Iupiter Viminius so called of the Oseyers growing there and they say Marcus Crassus dwelt vpon this Mountaine The seuenth Mount was called XXVIII Quirinalis of the Quirites or Senators dwelling there or of the Speare of Iuno and it was also called Egonus At this day it is vulgarly called Monte Cauallo There be two other Mountaines beyond the Tyber which are seated in Toscany not in Latium for Leander makes all the places most neere to Rome on this side to belong to Hetrurta The first of these Mountes is called XXIX Vaticanus of the crying of an infant or of a god of that name as Gellius writes which god was the god of prophecies Pope Leo the fourth compassed this Hill and the next field with walles and called it Leonina but at this day it is called Il Borgo The other Mount beyond Tyber was called XXX I aniculus of I anus dwelling and buried there and is now vulgarly called Mortorio Within the walls of Rome there bee some other Hills or little Mountaines but lesse famous The first is called XXXI Pincius and vulgarly de li hortuli reaching to the Gate Salaria The second was called XXXII Citorius and of old Citaterius of the Tribes descending from thence to chuse Magistrates as those that were sutors to be Magistrates descended from the Mount Pincius and went into Campus Martius The third Mount lesse and more obscure is called XXXIII I or danus of the family Orsini who at this day haue their Pallaces vpon it The fourth Mountlesse and obscure is called XXXIIII Testaceus of earthen pots for the Potters of old dwelt there and the images and vessels of the Temples were for the most part of earth And when the dead bodies were burned the ashes were laied vp in these vessels whereupon a heape grew to a
wall of the Chappell shineth like a glasse with precious stones where the Pope Sixtus Quintus commanded Michael Angelo to paint the day of Iudgement and the common report is that this Pope promised this famous Painter that he would not come into the Chappell till he had finished his worke yet by some Cardinals perswasions that he broke his promise and that the Painter thereupon made the pictures of the Pope and the Cardinals in hell amongst the Diuels so liuely as euery man might know them Betweene this Chappell and the Conclaue where they chuse the Popes lies a Kingly Gallery not vn worthily called vulgarly Sala Regia which others call Sala del Conclaue The wall of this Gallery in like sort shineth with pretious stones and the pauement is of pretious marble the arched roose all guilded and at the vpper end I wondred to see the Massacro of Paris painted vpon the wall with the Popes inscription greatly commending that detestable cruelty At the same vpper end the foresaid Chappell as you come vp lies one the left hand and the Conclaue on the right hand in which Conclaue the Cardinals meete to chuse the Pope deuided into seuerall roomes but meeting at a common table and when they haue chosen him they leade him into a Chappell at the lower end and neere the dore of the said Kingly Gallery and place him there vpon a hollow seate of Marble I know not whether this be the chaire in which the sex of the Pope is tried but I am sure it is hollow with a hole in the bottom After they put a Banner out of a high window and there make knowne to the people the name that the Pope hath chosen and then his armes are hung vp round about This Chappell at the lower end of the said Gallery hath the name of Pope Paul the third of the Family of Farnese and it is little and of a round forme as I remember but it is beautifull beyond imagination The images of the Apostles seeme to bee of siluer and Paradice painted vpon the arched roofe with Angels flying being the worke of Michael Angelo seemed to me admirable Vpon the other side of the said Library is the priuate Gallery of the Pope looking into the Garden 3 Beluedere which is seated vpon the side of the Mount Vatican where Pope Innocent the eight built part of the Pallace and called it Beluedere of the faire prospect of all Rome subiect to the eye And Pope Iulius the second placed in this Garden many very faire statuaes namely of the Riuer Nilus of the Riuer Tyber of Romulus and Remus playing with the papps of a shee-Wolfe all being placed in the open Garden and a most faire statua of Apollo another admirable statua of Lycaon with his children another of the boy Antoninus whom the Emperour Adrian loued another of Hercules another of Cupid another of Venus another of Cleopatra sleeping with her arme ouer her face and bearing a Serpent being a wonderfull faire statua And these are all locked vp and not to be seene without fauour Hence we went to the Castle 4 of Saint Angelo of old called Moles Adriani for it was the Sepulcher of the Emperour Adrian vpon the top whereof was the Pineapple of brasse which before I said was since placed in the open Court-yard of Saint Peters Church This Sepulcher of Adrian called Moles 4 was demolished by Beasarius in the warre of the Goathes vpon the ruines whereof Pope Boniface the eight built this Castle and Pope Alexander the sixth compassed it with walles and ditches and placed therein a guard of Souldiers and built from this Castle to the Popes Pallace an open and a close gallery by which vpon any tumult the Pope may passe safely from his Pallace to the Castle And after Pope Paul the third built very faire chambers in this Castle On the outside is the statua of Pope Pius the fourth and within is the statua of Paul the third vpon which these verses are written of the Emperour Charles the fifth comming to Rome E Lybia venit Romanas victor ad arces Caesar in niueis aureus iuit Equis Ille triumphauit sed tu plus Paule triumphas Victor namque tuis oscula dat pedibus With victory to Rome from Affrick came Caesar on milke white Horses golden all He Triumph'd Paul thy triumph hath more fame This Conquerour to kisse thy feete did fall In this Castle they shew the head of Adrtan the statua of Saint Peter a bunch of Grapes of brasse the place where the Cardinall Caictan escaped out of prison and a Trap-doore where prisoners are let downe into a dungeon The chambers are built in a circle round about the great chamber in the middest which is called Salaregia and without is a round Garden within the walles and vpon the top of the Castle in the place of the said Pine-apple is the statua of the Angell Michael of which the Castle hath the name The medowes of Qutntis Cincinates lie neere this Castle In the 5 Market place or field before the Church of Saint Peter where of old was Metonianus Circus Sixtus Quintus adorning Rome with many ornaments erected an Obeliske seuentie two foote high vpon the top whereof the ashes of Iulius Caesar were put of old but in the yeere 1586 this Pope consecrated the same to the Crosse and put vpon the top of it a Crosse guilded and beneath foure Lions guilded This Obeliske is vulgarly called La Guglia di S. Pietro The globe in which the ashes of Iulius Caesar were put is now shewed in the Capitoll and in the place thereof stands the said Crosse with the Armes of the said Pope In this part of the Citie called Il Borgo and in the very Market-place before Saint Peters Church is another Church called Saint Marie In Campo Santo because the yard thereof is all of earth brought from Hierusalem wherein all strangers are buried and they say there bodies are consumed in three dayes Neere that lies the Church of Saint Spirito called also Sassia of the Saxons that of old dwelled there and this is an Hospitall for the sicke and for Orphanes the rent whereof is said to haue been each day seuen thousand Crownes till Pope Sixtus Quintus did alien great part thereof to other vses and still of the surplusage at the yeeres ende many Orphen Virgins are married The Chappell of Saint Angelo lies close to the Castle and was built by the Pope who singing the Leteny there in the time of a great plague made the Romans beleeue that he did see Michael the Angell putting vp a bloudy sword in the sheath and hereof the Castle hath the name And it is a Schoole or Fraternitie of Gentlemen like to our Companies in London The Church of Saint AEgidius the Abbot hath great concourse to it in the moneth of September when Agues raigne in Rome for this Saint is the Patron for Agues From hence we went out of II Borgo by the
prospect and likewise a faire picture of Lucretia ready to die No situation can be imagined more pleasant then that of Arqua lying in the mouth of Mountaines abounding with Oliue trees and opening themselues vpon a fruitfull plaine on the East and North sides This plaine yeeldeth nothing in pleasantnes or in fruitfulnes to that of Capua famous for the corrupting of 〈◊〉 Army But it is a 〈◊〉 worke to praise the Euganian hils which so many Poets and Writers haue magnified Vpon Friday the third day of March after the new stile in the beginning of the yeere 1593 according to the Italians beginning the yeere the first of Ianuary of the end of the yeere 1594 according to the English beginning the yeere vpon the twenty fiue of March I turned my face to iourney towards my deere Countrey And the first day I rode eighteene miles to Vicenza through a most pleasant plaine tilled after the manner of Lombardy where one and the same held yeelds plenty of corne and hath Elme trees growing in the furrowes which support the vines so that one field giues bread wine and wood for to burne By the way my curiositie made me turne aside two miles out of the way that I might see a wonderfull Caue and a most pleasant parlor at Costoza in the house of Cesario Irento a Gentleman of Vicenza The Caue was large and fit to receiue diuers bands of souldiers The Parlor was called the prison of AEolus god of the Windes because there were certaine mils which in summer time draw much wind out of hollow Caues and disperse the same through all the chambers of the Paliace refreshing all that dwell there with a most pleasant coole air And vpon this Parlor this verse of Virgill was written AEolus hic clauso ventorum 〈◊〉 cere regnat AEolus here in the winds prison raignes The City of Vicenza is a faire City compassed with a wall of bricke but the building howsoeuer it be very stately is not like to that of other Cities in these parts in this one point namely that the second story of the houses hangeth ouer the streetes and being supported with arches giueth the passengers shelter from raine Here I did see a Theater for Playes which was little but very faire and pleasant In the market place there is a stately Pallace and the monastery of Saint Corona belonging to the preaching Friars is fairely built and hath a rich Library and the Friars keepe for a holy relike the Thorne wherewith Christ was crowned The Citie is subiect to the Venetians and is seated in a plaine hauing mountaines somewhat distant on the North and South sides Here I paid forty soldi for my supper and eighteene soldi for three measures of oates called quarterolli and for the stable so they call hay straw and the stable roome and so I will hereafter call it I paid twenty soldi Here I hired a horse for fiftie six soldi for a foote-man that had attended me hither and was to returne to Paduoa From Vicenza I rode thirty miles to Verona in a most pleasant plaine tilled after the manner of Lombardy lying on my left hand towards Italy farther then I could see and hauing fruitfull nils on my right hand towards the Alpes abounding with vines growing low vpon hort stakes and yeelding rich wines I entered Verona on the East side by the Bishops gate called Porta del'vescono They write that the City was of old called Berona by the name of the Founder thereof but the Friar Leander of Bologna writes that the City was built by the Tuseans and had the name of the Family Vera and was after rebuilt by the Galli Cenomani This most faire City is built in the forme of a Lute the necke whereof lies towards the West on which side the Riuer Athesis running towards the East doth not only compasse the City but runs almost through the center of the body of this Lute so as the lesse part of the body lies on the North side of the Riuer The bankes of Athesis vulgarly called 〈◊〉 Adice are ioined together with three bridges of stone and one of marble and are adorned on both sides with many ruines of an old Theater and old triumphall arches The City is compassed with a wall of bricke and is seated towards the South vpon the end of a large slony plaine and towards the other sides vpon pleasant hils rising towards the distant mountaines It is not built with the houses cast out towards the streetes and supported with Arches to auoid raine as other Cities are in those parts but the building of the houses is stately and the Cathedrall Church is remarkeable for the antiquity as likewise the Church of Saint Anastatius for the great beauty thereof and towards the wals the ground lies void of houses as the manner is in strong Townes It hath a pure aire and is ennobled by the ciuility and auncient Nobility of the Citizens who are indued with a chearefull countenance magnificent mindes and much inclined to all good literature Verona was a free City vnder the Empire about the yeere 1155 till the Family of the Scaligeri growing great in the City about the yeere 1259 did by little and little inuade the freedome of the City and made themselues Lords ouer it At last Anthony Scaliger killing his brother Bartholmew partner with him of that Lordship about the yeere 1381 was driuen out of the City by Vicount Iohn Galeatius the first Duke of Milan and he being dead William Scaliger helped by Francis Carrariensis droue the Garrilon of Milan out of the City in the yeere 1404. But the said Francis killing the said William by poison and the Family of the Scaligers being then so wasted as scarcely any one was to be found of that name the Venetians tooke occasion by this detestable treason of the said Francis to make the City subiect to them but their Army being defeated by the French in the yeere 1509 by a composition made betweene the French King and the Emperour Maximilian the City became subiect to the said Emperour till the Venetians recouered the same out of his hands in the yeere 1517 vnder whose subiection the City to this day flourisheth in great aboundance of all things On the North-side of the City without the wals is the mountaine Baldo hanging ouer the City and famous for the great plenty of medicinable herbes and vpon the side of this mountaine within the wals are no buildings but onely a strong Fort. On the south side lies the way to Mantua 23 miles distant and vpon the same side lies the foresaid stony plaine fiue miles long and ennobled with many skirmishes battels and victories In this plaine the Consull Caius Marius defeated the Cimbri and Odoacer King of the Heruli who destroied the Westerne Empire was defeated by Theodoricus King of the Ostrogothes and the Dutch Emperour Arnolphus Duke of Bauaria was defeated by Hugh of Burgandy then possessing Italy
let him ride behind me but feare giuing him wings so as he went as fast as my horse could trot within short space we came to Lanzi where I paid sixteene batzen for my supper breakefast and horse-meat The sixth day in the morning I rode fifteene Italian miles which the Grysons call two miles to Chur a City and the seat of a Bishop through little mountaines couered with snow The head of the Riuer Rheine is distant from this City as farre as a footman may goe in halfe an houre and it lies towards the south The City lieth in length from the Church on the North-side towards the South and hauing spent an houre in viewing the same I rode further foure miles of Sweitzerland through mountaines couered with snow to Walstat where I paid fiue batzen for my supper and to gratifie my Dutch consorts foure batzen for drinke after supper vulgarly called Schlaffdrunke that is the sleeping cup and three batzen for my horse-meat The seuenth day in the morning I passed two miles I meane alwaies the miles of the Countrey by boat vpon the Lake Walsea that is the walled sea because it is compassed with mountaines and I rode two most long miles more ouer hils to the little City Rabesuele and for the passage of my selfe and my horse ouer the Lake I paid seuen batzen and for oates for my horse while I expected consorts I paid three creitzers The foresaid little City is confederate with the Sweitzar Cantons and here I paid eighteene batzen for my supper with extraordinary fare and my breakfast and horse-meat The eight day in the morning after I had ridden foure houres space for the Sweitzers miles are so long and of so vncertaine measure as they vse to measure their iournies by houres riding not by miles I wondered to heare that we had ridden but one mile Our way was through pleasant hils planted with vines growing vpon short stakes as the Dutch vse to plant them Here we dined in a village and throughout all this territory I paied about seuen batzen a meale After dinner hauing in three houres ridden three miles my horse weary of this long iourney without so much as a daies rest beganne to faint so as I was forced in a village to giue him some two houres rest and some prouender and my way hitherto was through pleasant hils in like sort planted with vines on my right hand towards the East and by the side of the Lake Zurechzea on the left hand towards the West And the pleasantnesse of this Village seated among hilles planted with Vines on the East side of the said Lake made me as willing as my horse to rest there The same euening I rode further one mile to Zurech which city I formerly described in my former passage through Sweitzerland I formerly said that for the vnpossibilitie to exchange my money from Venice to Paris I was forced to exchange the same to Geneua For which cause and out of my desire to view that Citie famous for reformation of Religion after some few daies I took my iourney thither turning out of my high way The first day in the morning through a way most pleasant for the variety of Plaines Hilles Orchards Woods and Gardens wherein I passed by an ancient Castle of the Counts of Habspurg I rode in eight howers space to a Village where I lodged and payed a franke and a halfe French money for my supper and horse-meate The second day in the morning through a plaine Heath Woods and hilly ground for pasture I rode in foure houres space to a Village and there as in the rest of this iourney I payed about seuen batzen of Dutch money for a meale After dinner through like way I rode in three houres space to Solothurn an ancient Citie and one of the Sweitzers Cantons called in Latin Solidurum and it hath the name in both tongues as the Tower of the Sunne or as consisting onely of Towers whereof there be many One Tower thereof is of great antiquitie and vpon it these verses in Latin are written Ex this nihil est Sollduro antiqi ius vno Exceptis Treueris quarum ego aicta soror What 's older mongst the Celts then Solidure Nothing but Treir whose sister Iam sure They will haue this Citie built in the time of the Patriarke Abraham The third day in the morning I rode in foure houres space to Arberg by the side of a great Riuer called Ar passing twice ouer it by two bridges After dinner I rode in foure houres space to Morton through pleasant miles of Corne and Woods and Pastures and by the side of the Lake Mortonzra Not farre hence Charle Duke of Burgunay was defeated by the Sweitzers in the yeere 1476 and there in a field lie the bones of the souldiers there killed The Burgundians were thrice beaten in one day and here in the last battell Duke Charles also was killed The fourth day in the morning I rode in three houres to Bitterline through fruitfull Corne fieldes and pastures and after dinner in foure houres space I rode to Milden and about the midst of the way did see the ruines of the ancient Citie Auenza or Auenticum which Iulius Caesar vtterly raced and Corne was now sowed within the old circuit of the Citie whereof no memory remained but one ruinous tower and a statua but they say that the Husbandmen tilling the ground doe many times dig vp old Roman coines of siluer and gold Not farre thence towards the West lie the snowy Mountaines which diuide the Territories of Burgundy and Sweitzerland The fifth day in fiue houres space I rode to Losanna through Mountaines couered with Snow and thicke Woods This Citie is subiect to Berna being one of the Sweitzers Cantons but the Citizens speake French It is seated on the North side of the Lake of Losanna of old called Lacus 〈◊〉 which is compassed with Mountaines continually couered with snow which open themselues on the Eastside towards Italy On the Eastside of the Citie is the head of the Riuer Rhodanus which fulles into this Lake hauing so cleare a colour as it seemes not at all to mingle with the standing water of the Lake From hence I rode by the West side of this Lake and in two howers space came to Morgen which Towne is also subiect to Berna Then I rode foure miles in foure houres space to Geneua hauing the sandy banke of the said Lake on my left hand towards the East and most pleasant Hilles planted with Vines on my right hand towards the West and by the way I did see a Village ruined in time of warre nothing there standing but a pillar erected in honour of the Papists Masse Geneua is seated on the South side of the Lake right opposite to Losanna seated at the North end thereof The East side of the Lake lies towards Sauoy and Italy and the West side towards France on which side also the high way lies
harme to the same from some high places without this gate On the left hand as you come into the broad and faire street of Saint Denys lies a Castle which they say Iulius Casar built and the same Castle was of old the chiefe gate of Paris whereupon Marcellinus cals the whole City the Castle of the Parisians And vpon the righthand is the Nunnery of the daughters of God which vse to giue three morsels of bread and a cup of wine to condemned men going to execution Not farre thence is the large Church yard of the Holy Innocents which King Phillip Augustus compassed with wals and there be many faire sepulchers and they say that bodies buried there are consumed in nine daies The fifth F gate lies toward the North and is called Mont-Martre so called of a mountaine of the same name lying without that gate and hauing the name of Martyres there executed And Henry the fourth besieging the City mounted his great Ordinance in this place The sixth G gate Saint Honore hath a suburbe in which is the market place for swines flesh and vpon the right hand as you come in hard by the gate is an Hospitall for three hundred blind men The seuenth H and last gate lies vpon the Seyne towards the North-west and is called the new gate and within the same about a musket shot distance is the I Kings Pallace which may be called the lesse Pallace in respect of the greater seated in the Iland and this little Pallace is vulgarly called Le' leuure This Pallace hath onely one Court yard and is of a quadrangle forme saue that the length somewhat passeth the bredth and the building being of free stone seemeth partly old partly new and towards one of the corners the Kings chambers vulgarly called Il Pauillon are more fairely built then the rest Without the said new gate some halfe musket shot distance is the Kings garden with the banquetting house vulgarly called Les Tuilleries And now the ciuill warres being ended the King beganne to build a stately gallery which should ioine together this garden and the foresaid Pallace of the King and I heare that this Gallery is since finished And the hall ioining this gallery with the Pallace doth passe the stately building of the rest of the Pallace being beautified with many stones of marble and of porphery I say that this Gallery leads from the Pallace ouer the wals of the City and the ditch thereof being neere the riuer and so full of water and after being supported with two or three Arches reacheth to the same garden and all the way without the wals from the Pallace to the said Garden being compassed with wals on both sides this gallery the Garden seemes to be so much increased On the left hand as you come into the foresaid new Gate lies the Tower Luparia Alencon house Burbon house the Coyning house and vpon the right hand the chiefe Coyning house lying vpon the Riuer Seyne To conclude of the streetes of this part of the Citie called Ville the chiefe is S. Antoine the second of the Temple the third S. Martine the fourth S. Denys the fifth Mont Martre the sixth S. Honore all so named of their Gates and the seuenth Luparia vpon the banke of the Riuer Seyne And amongst all these the most faire are that of S. Antoine S. Denis S. Honorè and S. Martinè so called of their Gates A. E. G. D. The second part of the Citie called the Vniuersitie hath the Riuer Seyne on the East and North-sides and is compassed with walles on the South and West sides and hath seuen Gates The first K Gate S. Victoire lies on the South side vpon the Riuer and hath his Suburbe with a stately Monastery And from the Hill adioyning to this Gate the Army of King Henrie the fourth besieging the Citie much pressed the same hauing their Cannon planted neere the Gallowes On the right hand as you come in towards the Riuer lie the Tower Nella the vpper the Colledge of the Cardinall the Colledge of the good boyes the Colledge and the Church of the Bernardines which Pope Benedict the twelfth built and the Cardinall of Telouse increased with a Libraty and with maintenance for sixteene Scholers to studie Diuinitie Also there lie the house of Lorayne the great Schooles of foure Nations the Market place for Riuer fish and the Castle and the little bridge which the Prouost of Paris built to restraine the Schollers walking by night in the time of King Charles the fifth The second gate is called L the Porte of Marcellus or of the Stewes and it hath a Suburbe where in the Church of Saint Marcellus Bishop of Paris and canonized for a Saint which Rowland Count of Blois nephew to Charles the Great did build Peter Lombardiu Bishop of Paris was buried in the yeere 1164 and behinde the great Altar in a window is the Image of Charles the Great On the right hand as you enter the said Port by the Mount of S. Genouefa lie the Colledge Turnonium the Colledge Bonae Curiae the Colledge of the Dutch the Colledge of Navarra the Colledge Marchieum and the Colledge Laudunense and on the left hand the Colledge of the Lombards the Colledge Prellaum famous for Peter Ramus who was Master of that Colledge was there killed in the massacre The third Gate of M S Iames lyes on the South-west side where King Francis the first built a fort without this Gate is a suburb in which is a Church yard of the Monastery of Saint Marie at the very entrie whereof is a most ancient Image of the Virgin painted with gold and siluer with an inscription vpon it In the streete of Saint Iames the Iesuites had their Colledges till for their wicked acts they were banished the Citie and Kingdome And since their restitution I thinke they now enioy the same On the right hand as you enter this Gate lie the Colledge Lexouiense the Colledge of Saint Michael or Cenate the Colledge Montis Acuti which built in the yeere 1490 maintaines certaine poore Scholers called Capeti the Colledge of S. Barbera the Colledge of Rheines the schoole of Decrees the Colledge Bellouaccuse the Colledge Triqueticum the Colledge Cameracense and the Colledge Carnouallense On the left hand lie the Colledge of the bald men the Colledge of Sorbona which Robert of Sorbona a Diuine and familiar with King Saint Lewis did institute and the same in processe of time became of great authority in determining questions of Diuinity the Colledge of Master Geruasius a Christian the Colledge Plexourense and the Colledge Marmontense The fourth N Gate of the vniuersity is called Port Michaell where Francis the first built a Fort and before the gate is a Monastery of the Carthusians where a statua of blacke marble is erected to Peter Nauareus and there be two statuaes of white marble without any inscription On the right hand as you enter this gate lie the
Colledge Cluniacense the Pallace of the Baths which they say was built by Iulius Caesar and is so called either of the bounds of the Tributes or of the Baths of Iulian the Apostata the waters whereof are drawne from a Village adioining and the Colledge of eighteene and vpon the left hand the Colledge of Hericuria the Colledge of Iustice the Colledge of the Treasurers the Colledge Baionium the Colledge Scensa and the Colledge Turonense The fifth Gate on the West side is called O Saint Germain and without the gate is a suburbe all suburbes are vulgarly called Faulxbourg which is large and was pulled downe to the ground in the ciuill war And there King Henry the fourth lay encamped when he besieged the City In this suburbe is the monastery of Saint Germain not inferiour to any in wealth and indowed with great priuiledges and iurisdiction where the old Kings Childebert the second and Ckilperit the fourth and Clotharius the second lie buried and there is a chest of siluer the gift of King Eudo. On the right hand as you come into this Gate in the Minorites Cloyster are the sepulchers of the Queenes and Princes whereof one being of blacke marble with white statuaes is the fairest my memory herein may faile me that there is another Cloyster of Minorites without the gate of Saint Marcellus Also there lie the Colledge Brissiacum and vpon the left hand the house Rothomagensis the Colledge of Burgondy the house of Rhemes the Colledge Mignonium the Colledge Praemonstratense and the Colledge Dinuellium The sixth Gate is called P Bussia and vpon the right hand as you come in lies the Colledge Anthunense and vpon the left hand lies the house Niuernensis The seuenth and last Gate of the Vniuersity lies towards the northwest is called Q Nella and without the same is the meadow of the Clerkes On the right hand as you come in this gate lie the house Nella the Colledge of Saint Denis and the house of the Augustines wherein is the sepulcher and liuely Image of Phillip Comineus And vpon the left hand lie the lower Tower Nella and the Westerne bank of the Riuer Seyne These are the fairest streetes of the Vniuersity the first of Saint Victoire the second of Saint Marcellus the third of Saint Iames the fourth of Saint Germain the fifth of the Celestines vpon the banke of the Riuer the sixth of the mountaine of Saint Genouefa the seuenth of Saint Michaell and the eight of the Augustines vpon the banke of the riuer Seyne The third part of the City is the Iland compassed round about with the Riuer Seyn It had of old foure Gates vpon the foure bridges but seemes to haue had no gate vpon the fifth bridge called Pont aux musniers which in this discription I reckon to be the third gate In the vpper part of the Iland towards the South-east is a fenny market place called the Marsh that is the Fen. Neer that lies R the Cathedrall Church of the blessed Virgin which King Phillip Augustus began to build in the yeere 1257 the foundations being before laid by an vncertaine founder and it is reputed the chiefe among the miracles of France It is supported with one hundred and twenty pillars whereof one hundred and eight are lesse and twelue very great being all of free stone The Chauncell is in the middest of the Church which hath 〈◊〉 walking paces in length and sixty paces in bredth and all the Chauncell is compassed with stone wherein the Histories of the old and new testament are engrauen It hath forty fiue Chappels in the circuit thereof which are shut vp with grates of Iron In the Front it hath two double doores with faire statuaes of twenty eight Kings Vpon the sides are foure Towers or belfreyes thirtie foure Cubits high The greatest bell called Marie requires twentie foure men to ring it and the sound thereof in faire weather may bee heard seuen leagues of In a Chappell towards the South are the statuaes of King Lewis the fat and of his son Phillip with the Image of a hog because he died with a fal from his horse stumbling vpon a hog On the North side is a mark that the ouerflowing of the Riuer Seyne passed the outward statuaes from that of Phillip Augustus King Phillip of Valois hauing gotten a victory against the Flemings in the yeere 1328 offered his Horse and armour to the blessed Virgin and gaue the Chanons an hundred pounds yeerely rent to whom for that cause a Horse-mans statua is there erected Also there is a Giantlike statua erected to Saint Christofer in the yeere 1413 by Antony Dessars Knight In the lower part of the Iland towards the North-West the Church of S Saint Bartholmew is seated which was built by King Phillip the faire and after was turned from the Kings Chappell to a Monastery by King Lotharius in the yeere 973 and then became a parish Church whereof the King in respect of the old Pallace was the chiefe Parishioner and I thinke is so still It became most famous in that the bell of that Church was sounded vpon the verie day of Saint Bartholmew in the yeere 1572 to giue a signe to the Regalists and Guisians that they should kill those of the reformed Religion whom they had drawne to the Citie vnder pretence of loue and could not otherwise haue ouercome as they found by experience of their valour Neere that lyes the Kings greater T Pallace wherein the old Kings kept their Court but it hath since been vsed for the Courts of iustice and pleading of Lawyers In the great Hall hanges vp a dried Crocodil or a Serpent like a Crocodil There bee the painted Images of all the French Kings from Pharamund There is a statua of a Hart with the head and necke of Gold set there in memory of the Treasurers who in the time of King Charles the sixth turned the money in the Exchequer into that forme lest it should be wasted Here was painted vpon the wall neere the Tower vpon the top of the staires of the great Hall the Image of Engueranus Morignon Earle of Longauille and ouerseer of the building of this Pallace vnder King Phillip the faire with this inscription Chascun ' soit content de ses biens Qui n'a suffisance iln ' a riens Be thou content with the goods thee befall Who hath not enough hath nothing at all This was spoken like a Philosopher but the same man vnder Lewis Hatinus was hanged for deceiuing the King and this his Image was broken and kicked downe the staires In the Hall of the Pallace is a Marble Table at which Kings and Emperours were wont to bee feasted The Chamber of the Pallace where verball appeales are decided is called The golden Chamber and it is adorned with stately and faire arched roofes carued and pictures and there the Image of a Lyon with the Head deiected and the Tayle drawne in remembers the Pleaders of their dutie Lewis the
of this house Here the Souldiers spoiled our Redeemer of his garments and in scorne attired him with purple 23 The Arch of Pilate which is a gallery of bricke built ouer the street from one wall to another whence Pilate shewed Christ to the people saying behold the man doe with him what you will 24 Here they say the Virgin Mary fell downe fainting when Christ was led to Mount Caluary 25 Here they say that Christ fainting the Iewes tooke his Crosse and laied it vppon Symon of Cyren 26 The Pallace of King Herod 27 Here they say Christ vttered these words Daughters of Syon weepe not for me weepe for your selues c. 28 Here they say the rich glutton dwelt and not farre hence they shew the house where Mary Magdalen washed Christs feete with her teares and dried them with the haires of her head 29 Here they say Veronica dwelt and that this woman gaue her white hand-kercher to Christ when he did sweat blood who wiping his face therewith left the liuely print of it therein about which hand-kercher the Romans and the Spaniards contend both saying that they haue it and shewing it for an holy relike to the people 30 The Gate of old called Iudiciall now not extant by which Christ was led to Mount Caluary to be crucified for this mountaine now inclosed within the wals was then without the wals And the way from the house of Pontius Pilate noted with the figures 22 to this gate is called the dolorous way by the Italian Christians because Christ was led by it to his passion 31 The prison from whence the Angell brought Peter breaking his chaines and opening the iron doore and it is seated vnder the ruines of the Pallace which since that time belonged to the Knights of Ierusalem 32 The Church which the Christians built ouer the Sepulcher of Christ of which I will after write more largely making a rude Mappe thereof as I haue done of the City 33 The Monastery of the Franciscan Friars in which we did Iodge being seated on the highest part of Mount Caluary which since hath beene called the Mount of our holy Sauiour And this is called the new Monastery in respect of the old noted with the figure 6 and onely hath the monuments of the old painted to the visiting whereof the Pope hath giuen large indulgences The Franciscan Friars conducting vs shewed vs some other monuments within the wals And not farre from the gate of Syon noted with the figure 4 they shewed vs 34 the house of the High Priest Anna where Christ was examined by the Pharises and there they shewed vs an Oliue tree which must needs be old to which they say Christ was bound 35 The Church of the Apostle Saint Iames whom the Spaniards call Saint Iames of Gallicia and worship for their protecting Saint who was called Iames the greater and they say was here beheaded This Church is stately built for the pouerty of the Armenians who built it and maintained there an Archbishoppe to keepe it and to performe there the rites of their religion 36 The place where they say Christ appeared to the three Maries dwelling together vpon the very day of his resurrection where the Christians built three Churches which the Turks haue conuerted to 3 Moschees yet bearing no reuerence to the place because they beleeue not that Christ died and much lesse beleeue that he rose againe 37 The house of the Euangelist Saint Marke mentioned in the twelfth Chapter of the Acts. This is the house of Mary the Mother of Iohn surnamed Marke whither Peter came when the Angell deliuered him out of prison into which Herod had cast him noted with the figure 31 At this day there was an obscure Church kept by the Syrian Priests 38 Here they shew the Iron gate which Peter found miraculously opened and by the same entring into the other City came to the house of Saint Marke We going out at Saint Steuens Gate towards the East descended into the vally of Iehosaphat and here they say 39 the bridge stood by which the Queene of Saba passed ouer the Brooke Cedron and that the Crosse of Christ was made of the wood of this bridge 40 In this place they say the Protomartyre Saint Steuen was stoned 41 This smal line without the Easterne gates shewes the bed of the brook Cedron or Kidron which is very narrow hauing not at this time one drop of water so as we passed ouer the stony bed with drie feet But of old when Ierusalem flourished and had many conduits of water drawne to it then it is probable that it was filled with water And at this day when any rainefals the water runnes swiftly from the mountaines on the North side according to this blacke line through the most pleasant vally of Iehosaphat This vally extendeth it selfe on both sides of this brooke some two Italian miles in length but is very narrow and it hath on the West side the wals of the City where Salomons Temple stood vpon the lower part of the Mount Moriah and it hath vpon the East side the most high Mount Oliuet and it hath on the North side mountaines somewhat but not farre distant from the City and vpon the South-side mountaines a little more distant Many interpret the Prophet Ioell in his third Chapter and second verse as if Gods Tribunall at the day of iudgement should stand in this vally and thereupon the Iewes when they die in remote parts will be brought to be buried in this vally for the expedition of their triall But the best Diuines doe teach that the word Iehosaphat signifies the Iudgement of the Lord and that the Prophet may be interpreted figuratiuely namely that as the Lord often defeated with great slaughters the enemies of his Church in this valley so in the day of iudgement he will strike the wicked vvith like confusion 42 Beyond the Brooke is a stately Sepulcher for the most part vnder the earth into which we descended by some fiftie staires and about the middle descent on the left hand towards the City vnder an Altar lie the bodies of Ioseph and Ioachimus and on the right hand the body of Anna namely of the Husband Father and Mother of the Virgin Marie In the bottome is a Church in the middle whereof vnder a stone raised some few feete from the ground they say the Apostles buried the Virgin Mary This Church so they call all places where they haue Altars to sing Masses is very darke hauing no light but by one window or vent made through the earth and vpon this monument lies part of the bed of the Brook Cedron On the right hand the Turks who greately reuerence the monuments of Christ while he liued haue made themselues an Oratory But for the monument it selfe the Franciscan Friers of the Latin Church haue alone the priuiledge to keepe the same and the Altar thereof for their singing of Masses 43 Here is a Caue at the foote
hauing eleuen pillars seuen foote distant one from the other whereof many were of porphery and had beautifull spots The highest roofe of the Church on the inside is painted with Histories of the Scripture with a rich painting that shineth with gold and glasse as if it were enameled called in Italian Alla Mosaica and the pauement is rich with stones of marble porphery and Iaspar From the lesse Church called of Saint Katherine we entred a Caue vnder the earth where the Friars gaue euery one of vs a lighted waxe candle in his hand Let them place what religion they will therein I am sure the Caue was so darke as we could not haue passed it without a light In this Caue wee did first see the bones of the Infants killed by Herod then the Sepulchers of Eusebius and of Saint Ierome in his Chappell for they hold that he long dwelt there Then they did lead vs into a more darke place where they say he did liue an austere life fifty yeeres space and translated the Bible out of Hebrew into Latine and wrote many volumes But the place seemed to me more fit to dull the braine then to yeeld such fruites of wit by reason it was darke and digged deepe vnder ground From this Caue we ascended by ten marble staires into a Chappell all couered with marble and lying in length from the West at which end we entered to the East And from this West end as well Turkes as Christians of all sects goe vpon their knees to the Easterne end and there kisse a marked stone in the pauement in which verie place they say the Redeemer of the World was borne By this stone on the South-side lieth a little Chappell hauing two doores onely diuided with a pillar In which Chappell at the right hand or West-side is a manger raised from the ground and all of marble in which they say Christ was laid after his birth and in the wall they shew a stone hauing as they say the liuely picture of Saint Hierome In the said little Chappell on the left hand or East side they shew a place where they say Christ was circumcised and shed the first drops of his precious blood for the sauing of mankind And there they fhewed another place where they say the Wise-men of the East adored Christ and offered to him their gifts The wals of both Chappels the pauements and all things are couered with marble The roofe on the inside is painted with the foresaid rich pictures glistering likeenamelled worke To conclude all things are stately and rich and remain so vnder the Turkish tiranny yet more rich in the Chappell of Chrsts birth then in the greater Church where all things then began to fall to ruine because the Turkes beleeue not that Christ died The Turkes doe so reuerence this monument of Christs birth as they creepe groueling vpon hands knees to kisse the said stone yet in the meane time they despise the monuments of his death because they beleeue not that he died From hence going Backe the same way we entered they shew vpon the right hand a hole in the highest roofe of the Church by which they say the starre that conducted the Wise-men fell from aboue into the bowels of the earth Can he forbeare laughter who considers the bignes of the starres yea euen of Comets as some write that was specially finding no mention of this falling of the starre to be made in the holy scriptures The City or Village of Bethlehem is distant from Ierusalem some fiue miles in Turky I alwaies vnderstand Italian miles and we came hither from the Westerne gate of Ierusalem through a faire way and mountaines planted with Vines Oliues and fruitfull Trees Bethlehem is seated vpon Mountaines and hath pleasant hils on the East and South-sides a pleasant plaine on the North-side ending in great mountaines towards Ierusalem 84 As wee went out of Bethlehem to visit the Monuments here they shewed vs the field in which the Angell made knowne the birth of Christ to the Shepheards and the Caue wherein they did lie by day to shun the heate of the Sunne 85 Here they say the Patriarch Lot planted the first Vine 86 Here beyond pleasant Hilles wee did distinctly see the Plaine of Iordan and the dead Sea with the situation of Sodom and Gomorra 87 Here they say Bethalia was seated of old 88 Here we did see the ruines of a house in which they say Ioseph the Virgins Husband did dwell 89 Here they say the Virgin hid her selfe from the tyranny of Herod 90 Here they say that King Salomon had his Garden The Franciscan Friers sent out of Italy each third yeere into these parts did courtcously intertaine vs at Bethlehem and at our first comming in imitation of Christ they washed our feete It happened that my brother fell sicke here of an Ague and so when our consorts vpon Saterday in the euening returned to Ierusalem wee were forced to stay here that night But the next day in the euening we came to them at the Monastery of Ierusalem And because they made haste to returne homeward wee went forth the next day being Munday the tenth of Iune earely in the morning to see the Mountaines of Iudea And that day it happened that I was troubled with loosenesse of body whereof I made good vse as I shall hereafter shew which makes me name it We went out of the Citie at the Gate of Ioppa on the West side and vpon our right hand they shewed vs 91 this place where they say that Salomon was anointed King 92 Thence we went right forward to a Fountaine in the Desart where they say Phillip the Apostle did interpret the Scriptures to the Eunuch of Candace Queene of Ethropii and baptized him 93 Here they say is the Desart in which Iohn Baptist preached and they shewed vs his Caue cut out of a Rocke and a long stone therein vpon which he vsed to lye and a pleasant spring issuing out of the Rocke where hee vsed to drinke and another stone vpon which he vsed to sit 94 He e we came to the Mountaines or Mountanous places of Iudea and here they say the Prophet Zacharias dwelt where a woman of the Moores kept the Church of old built there 95 From hence a Musket shot or little more is another house which they say belonged to Zacharias and in one of these houses he pronounced the Song Blessed bee the Lord God of Israel c. And when the Virgin visited Elizabeth the Babe here sprang in her wombe and the Virgin here pronounced the Song My soule doth magnifie c. And Iohn Raptist was borne here 96 From this place they say the Tree was taken vpon which the Crosse of Christ was made and Greeke Friers keepe the Church that was here built This place is two miles distant from Ierusalem whether we returned the same way we came out and entered the Citie by the West Gate of Ioppa The
we found the Venetian ship are in the description of Constantinople noted with the letters W and X and they are now commonly called the Castles of Gallipolis but of old that noted with the letter W was called Sestos being a Citie in Thrace in which the most faire Hero was borne and dwelt and the other noted with the letter X was called Abydos being a Citie of Asia the lesse in which Leander dwelt famous for his loue to Hero and these Castles are diuided by the Hellespont some two miles broad at least so narrow as Leander is said often to haue swomme ouer it to his beloued Hero The Castle of Sestos more specially is seated in a most fertile soyle for Nairo the next adioyning towne yeeldes excellent Wines and all necessaries to sustaine life plentifully Howsoeuer the ships ought and vse to bee staied here for three daies yet a very faire winde blowing and all duties being performed the Patrons of the ships by a large gift to the Officers sometimes obtaine leaue to depart sooner They say that each passenger by Pole payeth here one zechine for tribute but perhaps this belongs onely to Merchants for my selfe my seruant and the English Gentleman in my company hauing giuen betweene vs one zechine to the substitutes of the Venetian Bailiffe so their Ambassador is called we were dismissed vpon their motion yet we moreouer gaue fortie aspers to a Ianizare and fiftie aspers to a Chiauslar for the fees of their offices It being vnwholsome to sleep aboue the hatches of the ship at this time of the yeere though in summer time I made choice to sleepe so when I sailed from Venice to Ierusalem we three namely my selfe the English Gentleman and my seruant gaue for each of vs three zechines to the Pilot to be partners with him in his cabin which by his Office hee had proper to himselfe in the Castle of the ship and to the Patron or Master of the ship for our diet we paid each of vs after the rate of fiue zechines and a halfe by the moneth as well at Sea as in Harbors and for our passage we ioyntly paid ten ducats of Venice so as I still paid two parts of three in all expences besides that wee brought with vs some hundreds of Egges and a vessell of excellent Wine of Palormo which our Ambassadour at Constantinople gaue vs. Vpon Monday the seuenth of March after the old stile vsed in Turky by all Christians and others in the afternoone we set sayle and passed the straight of Hellespont and the same night sayled by the foresaid Iland of Tenedos This Sea is called Pontus of the adiacent Prouince of Asia the lesse named Pontus which Prouince containes Colchis famous by the old Argonauticall expedition Capidocia and Armenia The eight of March early in the morning we did see tha Iland Lemnos famous for a kind of earth there digged and in Latin called Terra Sigillata vpon our right hand and the Ilands Metelene and Chios now called Zio and the Citie Smyrna vpon the continent of Asia the lesse vpon our left hand to omit Ephesus not farre distant vpon the same continent And being now entred into the AEgean Sea now called Archipelagus of fiftie Ilands standing like Arches and not farre distant one from the other which are called Cyclades or Sporades the ninth of March hauing now sailed eightie miles and being to sayle by the Iland Saint George of Skyra the windes were so contrary as wee were forced to strike sayles and lie at hull that is tossed to an fro by the waues The same day we set sayle and left the Iland Andros one of the Cyclades and the Iland Tyno subiect to the Venetians on our left hand or towards the East and the Iland Negropont lying close to the continent of Attica and right ouer against the ruines of famous Athens on our right hand or towards the West The tenth and eleuenth of March wee sayled 100 miles in the same Sea full of Ilands and sailed by the Ilands Gia and Makarone But towards night contrary windes rising high and we fearing to bee cast vpon some shoare of many adiacent Ilands againe we struck sayle and lay at hull tossing to and fro but making small or no progresse The twelfth of March early in the morning we set sayle and sayled by the Iland Milo of old called Miletum where Saint Paul landed Acts 20. 15 and a neere Iland Sdiles of old called Delos and most famous for the Oracle of Apollo and the Promontory of Morea of old called Peloponesus containing many Prouinces of Greece which promontory is called Capo Malleo The thirteenth of March hauing sayled one hundred and ninety miles we passed by the Iland Cerigo not subiect to the Turkes as most of the Ilands are but to the Venetians who in a Castle on the South side keepe a Garrison of souldiers It is one of the Cyclades seated at the entrance of the Archipelagus towards the South scarce fiue miles distant from Morea the foresaid continent of Greece and some one hundred and fiftie miles from Candia the chiefe Citie of the Iland Candia and was of old called Scotera also Porphoris of that precious kind of Marble there digged and also Citherea of which as her chiefe seate Venus is often so called And to this day there are seene the ruines of a Temple dedicated to Venus and of a Pallace belonging to Menelaus the husband of Helena From the thirteenth to the seuenteenth of March the windes were so contrary or scant as wee onely sayled one hundred and twenty miles and tooke harbour in the Iland Zante subiect to the Venetians whereof I made mention in my voyage from Venice to Ierusalem Here some English Merchants continually reside and the Hauen being commodious and most ships that trade in these Seaes vsing to put into this Harbor the goods that are diuersly transported thence are vulgarly but falsely esteemed the natiue commodities of the Iland It hath scarce sixtie miles in circuit and the Mountaines round about vpon the Sea-side inclose a pleasant and fruitfull Plaine The Hauen is like an halfe Moone increasing and the chiefe Towne called Zante lies in a little Plaine vpon the innermost part thereof in length The buildings of the houses are two stories high with a tyled but low roofe without any windowes according to the building of Italy but are poore and base for the matter so as the onely beautie of the Towne lies in the Castle built at the East end vpon a high Hill being of a large circuit and containing many houses and Churches within the walles thereof In which Castle the Gouernour called il Podestà and the other Venetian inferiour Magistrates dwell and giue Law to the people of that Iland The Turkish Pirats of Saint Mauro in Morea hauing lately set vpon and taken a huge Venetian ship did lade seuenteene of their little barques with the most pretious goods
person but therein explained other grieuances besides the former complaints And whereas the Lords of the Counsell had taxed him for being ruled by young counsell wherby he vnderstood his three most familiar friends to be meant namely Sir Henry Dauers Sir Richard Moryson and Sir William Godolphin he boldly answered that besides the Counsellors of State hee vsed the familiarity of none which were not older then Alexander the great when he conquered the World Lastly he protested to Master Secretarie that he tooke him for his chiefest friend and knew that he had more power to do him good or hurt then any other yet as he would not dishonestly lose him so he would not basely keepe him beseeching him to vse his power in mediating licence vnto him that he might come ouer for a short time to kisse the Queenes hand for touching other fauours concerning the publike he would neuer acknowledge any particular obligation to him or to any other since hee made his demaunds as he thought best for the seruice but the granting or denying thereof concerned not him The Muster of the Army at Dundalke before the sitting downe at the Faghard Hill Colonels of Regiments In Lyst By Muster Whereof Irishmen Swords wanting Sick hurt lying at Dundalk Captaine Berey 472. The Lord Deputies Guard 200 Targets 28 120 01 00 16 Pikes 32 Shot 60 The Marshall Sir Rich. Wingfield 150 Targets 4 96 10 30 06 Pikes 39 Shot 53 Vnder the Lord Deputie 400. The Sergeant Maior Sir Oliuer Lambert 200 Targets 10 108 08 05 05 Pikes 46 Shot 52 Capt. Handserd 100 Targets 1 79 20 10 06 Pikes 28 Shot 50 Capt. Fisher. 100 Targets 3 69 05 20 11 Pikes 21 Shot 45 Sir Christopher Saint Laurence Sir Christopher Saint Laurence 200 Targets 10 141 113 14 12 Pikes 61 Shot 70 Sir Henry Follyot 150 Targets 6 90 15 10 09 Pikes 36 Shot 48 Earle of Kildare 150 Targets 6 81 78 06 14 Pikes 35 Shot 40 Sir Fra Shane 100 Targets 00 55 47 04 08 Pikes 18 Shot 37 Sir Charles Percy 336. Sir Charles Percy 200 Targets 10 149 28 30 04 Pikes 54 Shot 85 Captaine Williams 150 Targets 00 90 06 03 10 Pikes 37 Shot 53 Captaine Roe 100 Targets 4 59 08 05 01 Pikes 25 Shot 30 Capt. Stannton 100 Targets 00 38 00 00 10 Pikes 18 Shot 20 Sir Richard Morison 473. Sir Rich. Moryson 200 Targets 6 118 22 25 36 Pikes 44 Shot 68 Sir Hen. Dauers 200 Targets 26 128 12 15 22 Pikes 37 Shot 65 Capt. Caufeild 150 Targets 07 94 10 10 23 Pikes 32 Shot 55 Capt. Constable 100 Targets 3 76 01 12 05 Pikes 25 Shot 48 Ca. Rauenscroft 100 Targets 3 57 01 23 06 Pikes 24 Shot 30 Sir Thom. Bourk 276. Sir Thom. Bourk 150 Targets 06 85 82 26 14 Pikes 25 Shot 54 Lord Deluin 150 Targets 03 76 74 30 10 Pikes 30 Shot 43 Sir Henrie Harrington 100 Targets 03 40 37 08 12 Pikes 20 Shot 17 Sir Garret More 100 Targets 07 75 13 02 08 Pikes 23 Shot 45 Sir Oliuer Saint Iohns Sir Oliuer Saint Iohns 150 Targets 10 95 24 15 05 Pikes 33 Shot 52 Sir Thom. Wingfeild 150 Targets 05 102 25 20 13 Pikes 29 Shot 68 Capt. Billings 100 Targets 03 59 01 04 15 Pikes 24 Shot 32 Capt. Treauor 100 Targets 06 70 01 15 14 Pikes 23 Shot 41 The men of Dublin 50 Targets 03 44 40 00 01 Pikes 15 Shot 26 Sir S. Bagnol 346 S r S. Bagnol with brokē cōpanies and his owne 200 Targets 18 200 20 30 00 Pikes 24 Shot 158 Capt. Esmond 150 Targets 02 82 15 10 14 Pikes 28 Shot 52 Capt. Freckleton 100 Targets 03 64 03 06 02 Pikes 15 Shot 46  Totall 4150 Totall 2640 702 388 315 The greatest part of the Army haue neither Armours nor Murrions neither are here mentioned the sicke and hurt in other places besides Dundalke nor yet the warders allowed out of some of these Companies The fourteenth of September his Lordship began another iourny into the North and the fifteenth incamped at the hill of Faghard three miles beyond Dundalke and there his Lordship lay till the ninth of October in such extremitie of weather as would haue hindred his passage if the enemie had not withstood him his Lordships tent being 〈◊〉 wet and often blowne downe Before his Lordship came Tyrone with his vttermost strength had possessed the Moyry being a strong fastnesse as any the Rebels had but his Lordship resolued to march ouer him if hee stopped his way and make him know that his Kerne could not keepe the fortification against the Queenes forces Many skirmishes fell out happily to vs and two seuerall dayes the Rebels were beaten out of their trenches with great losse till at last vpon the eight of October they left the passage cleere Then after the army was a few daies refreshed at Dundalke his Lordship marched the twenty one of October to the Newry passing through the Moyry where he caused all the rebels trenches to be laid flat to the groūd and the woods to be cut downe on both sides of the Pace At the Newry for want of victuals his Lordship staied till the second of Nouember when he set forward eight miles towards Armagh and there incamped The Rebels horse-men shewed themselues vpon a hil wherupon Sir Samuel Bagnols Regiment hauing the Reare and being not yet come into the Campe was directed to march towardes them there being a bog between vs and them but the Rogues quickly drew to their fastnes The next morning his Lordship rode some quarter of a mile from the Campe and viewed a place where Sir Iohn Norreys formerly intended to build a Fort and liking his choice set downe there with the Army to build the same The place is a hill like a Promontory all inuironed with bogges a Riuer and great store of wood By it on the right hand ouer the Riuer and a great bogge was a little firme ground and then another bogge ouer that a faire Countrey with houses and much corne His Lordship could by no meanes send ouer any horse but foure miles about wherefore he commanded a regiment of foote to aduance to the first peece of firme ground and from thence to send ouer the next bogge some few men to bring in the Corne and Tymber of the houses with directions to make their retreit to the grosse if the enemies horses should fall downe that way On the left hand and before was a bogge ouer the bogge before a great wood that continueth through all this fastnes and ouer the bogge on the left hand a hill where Tyrone all that day and most of the time that the Army lay there did muster himselfe and his men This day most of his horse and foote fell ouer but farre about on the right hand vpon which our straglers that went out retired to the firme ground ouer the first bogge and there beganne betweene our foote and theirs a very good skirmish till
breeches are open behind with the shirt hanging out that they may case themselues without helpe Among other Princes of Italy I did see Ferdinand the third Duke of Florence who did weare a cloke of English cloth with one little lace and breeches of Veluct without any ornament and stockings of leather and a leather scabbard to his sword and his Coach was lined with old greene Veluct and the Horses seemed taken out of the Plough The women in generall are delighted with mixed and light colours The women of Venice weare choppines or shoos three or foure hand-bredths high so as the lowest of them seeme higher then the tallest men and for this cause they cannot goe in the streetes without leaning vpon the shoulder of an old woman They haue another old woman to beare vp the traine of their gowne they are not attended with any man but onely with old women In other parts of Italy they weare lower shooes yet somewhat raised and are attended by old women but goe without any helpe of leading The women of Venice weare gownes leauing all the necke and brest bare and they are closed before with a lace so open as a man may see the linnen which they lap about their bodies to make them seeme fat the Italians most louing fat women They shew their naked necks and breasts and likewise their dugges bound vp and swelling with linnen and all made white by art They weare large falling bands and their haire is commonly yellow made so by the Sunne and art and they raise vp their haire on the forehead in two knotted hornes and deck their heads vncouered haire with flowers of silke and with pearle in great part counterfeit And they cast a black vaile from the head to the shoulders through which the nakednesse of their shoulders and neckes and breasts may easily be seene For this attire the women of Venice are prouerbially said to be Grande dilegni Grosse di straci rosse dibettito bianche di calcina that is tall with wood fat with ragges red with painting and white with chalke The women of Genoa are attired much after the French fashion and by reason of neighbourhood borrow diuers manners from France which is also to be vnderstood of other Cities lying vnder the French Alpes and they goe abroad either alone or attended by men not by women as in other parts yea by night and early in the morning to the Church which suspected fashions other Italians cannot endure They weare nets and blacke vailes couering there with their faces contrary to the French manner without which the poorest woman goes not abroad In generall the Women of Italy for diuers Cities haue some fashions differing from other most commonly but especially the wiues of shopkeepers weare gowns of silke and light stuffes yea wouen with gold and those close at the brest and necke with a standing collar and little ruffes close vp to the very chinne and shewing no part naked And Gentlewomen in generall weare gownes loose behind with a close collar hiding all nakednesse and with traines borne vp by waitingmaides and sometimes with open hanging sleeues The married women weare their heads bare or couered with a fine linnen coyfe and a hat and a vaile hanging downe from the hinder part of the head to the backe The vnmarried haue their heads bare with their haire knotted like snakes and tied with gold and siluer laces or else they are couered with a gold netted cawle and they weare also gold chaines The married women weare chaines of pearle about the head and necke which in some places are forbidden to Virgins and these pearles are many times especially at Venice counterfet and made of glasse but very beautifull to the eye Widdowes and Women that mourne couer all their head and shoulders with a blacke vaile and vpon the forehead they weare a shadow or bongrace and about their neckes a white vaile hanging downe before to their feete The Countrey wenches weare vpon their heads gold and siluer cawles or at least seeming such and straw hats and guilded girdles and for the rest as other women are delighted with light colours The City Virgins and especially Gentlewomen couer their heads face and backes with a Vaile that they may not be seene passing the streetes and in many places weare silke or linnen breeches vnder their gownes Also I haue seene honourable Women aswell married as Virgines ride by the high way in Princes traines apparrelled like Men in a doublet close to the body and large breeches open at the knees after the Spanish fashion both of carnation silke or satten and likewise riding astride like men vpon Horses or Muses but their heads were attired like Women with bare haires knotted or else couered with gold netted cawles and a hat with a feather And many times in the Cities as at Padua I haue seene Curtizans in plaine English whores in the time of shrouing apparrelled like men in carnation or light coloured doublets and breeches and so playing with the racket at Tennis with yong men at which time of shrouing the Women no lesse then Men and that honourable women in honourable company goe masked and apparrelled like men all the afternoone about the streetes euen from Christmasse holydaies to the first day in Lent The Women wearing Mens breeches haue them open all before and most part behind onely buttoned with gold or siluer buttons And the Curtizans make all the forepart of their gownes in like manner open to auoide wrinckling Lastly the Italians vse to tie themselues vpon a vow for recouery of health or like cause to weare certaine apparrell for a time or for life and if the vow be in repentance of sinne the colour is ash colour vulgarly Beretino which I haue seene some weare for long time constantly with purpose to weare them during life CHAP. II. Of the Turkes French English Scottish and Irish Apparrell THe Turks shaue their heads but only in the very crowne where they leaue a tuffr of haire and they doe not now as of old onely nourish the haire of the vpper lip but al the beard growing round They couer their head thus shaued with a close cap of Scarlet and aboue it weare some twelue or twenty elles of fine white cotton cloth wouen into a round globe which in their tongue is called a Tulbent and by some Tsalma neither do they euer vncouer their heads in honour to any man but salute by bending the body and laying their left hand on their right side This cap or this head as they call it is hollow and so admits aire being borne vp by little hoopes and so cooles the head yet being thicke keepes out the Sunne from piercing it and being of most fine linnen is much lighter then our hats All the Orders or degrees among the Turkes are knowne by the ornament of the head or by their heades as they speake The Azimoglanes weare Pyramidall caps like sugar-loues of a mingled colour
name of Gregorie and he first instituted the seuen Electors of the Emperour which institution some attribute to Pope Silnester But whether Gregorie made this Law or confirmed it no doubt about the yeere 1002 the Electors were established about which time many tumults were at Rome betweene the Emperours and the Roman Prince Crescentius for the choise of the Pope and the common opinion is that Pope Gregorie in the yeere 997 made this Law of seuen Electors to chuse the Emperour and that Pope Siluester restrained it to certaine Families And this Institution seemed to giue great strength to the Empire since the former seditions were thereby taken away and it was likely these Princes would chuse a man of the greatest vertues and power But Charles the fourth chosen Emperor with condition not to meddle with Italy first obtained of the Electors to chuse his son to be Caesar in his life time and so made this Institution of no effect all Emp. after him chiefely laboring as much as they could to make the Empire hereditary by like meanes And the successor thus chosen in the life of the Emp. was called King of the Romans and after his death receiuing the Crowne was stiled Emp. Of the Electors 3 are Churchmon and Arch-bishops 3 are Lay-Princes of Germany and least by faction of sixe Churchmen and Laymen the voices should be equall the King of Bohemia was added for the seuenth Elector The Archbishop of Trier Chauncellor for France sits before the Emperour The Archbishop of Mentz Chansellor sor Germany sits at the Emperors right hand in all places but in the Diocesse of Colon where he giues place to the Archbishop therof The Archbishop of Colon Chancelor for Italy sits on the Emperors right hand in his own dioces but on his left hand in all other places The K. of Bohemia Arch-butler of the Empire sits next the Archbishop of Mentz on the right hād of the Emperor The D. of Saxony the Marshal of the Empire carrying the sword before the Emperor sits on his left hand next the Archbishop of Colon. The Count Palatine of the Rheine carries the first dish at the feast of the Emp. coronation and sits on his right hand next the K. of Bohemia And the Marquisse of Brandeburg Great Chamberlaine sits on the left hand of the Emp. next to the D. of Saxony It is to be remembred that for long time the Emperor hauing been also King of Bohemia to the end that vpon the death of the old Emperour there should not be wanting one to supply the place of the King of Bohemia at the Election of the new Emperour the Bohemians haue alwaies a Viceroy chosen for life who not onely supplies that place but also gouernes Bohemia till the new Emperour be chosen and after receiued for King at Prage The Emperour Charles the fourth made many Lawes concerning the Emperour and the Electors which Lawes are all collected together and by the Germans called the Golden Bulla and it will not be impertinent to remember some of them It is decreed that no Elector shall lie in ambushment for another Elector comming to chuse the Emperour neither shall denie him safe conduct through his Country vnder the paine of periurie and losse of his Voyce for that Election Vnder the same penalty that no man whosoeuer lye in waite to intercept the person or goods of any Elector That the Arch-Bishop of Meuts shall apdoint the day of the Election by letters Pattents so as the Electors or their Deputies hauing full power may meete for that purpose at Franckfort vpon the Meyne within three moneths and if the Archbishop faile to appoint the day yet that the Electors vncalled shall meete there within that time That no Elector nor Depute shall enter the City attended with more then two hundred horsemen nor aboue fiftie of them armed That the Elector or Deputy called and not comming or departing before the Emperour be chosen shall loose his Voyce for that time That the Citizens of Franckfort if they protect not those that come to the Election shall be proscribed and depriued of their priuiledges and goods That no man be admitted into the Citie besides the Electors and their Deputies and the horsemen attending them That the next morning early after their entry Masse bee sung in the Church of Saint Bartholmew and that done the Archbishop of Mentz at the Altar giue an oath to the Electors in these words I N. N. sweare by the faith that I owe to God and the sacred Empire that I will chuse a temporall Head of Christian Princes and giue my Voyce without any couenant stipend reward or any such thing howsoeuer it may be called as God helpe me c. That if they shall not agree of the Election within thirty daies they shall eate bread and water and shall not goe out of the City till the Election be finished That the greater part bee held for a generall 〈◊〉 consent That the Elector slacking his comming shal notwithstanding be admitted he come before the Election be finished That the person elected shal presently sweare in the royall name of King of the Romans to the Electors Princes Secular and Spirituall and to all the Members of the Empire that hee will confirme all priuiledges customes c. and that after his Coronation hee shall sweare the same in the name of Emperour That an Elector shall haue his Voyce in the choice of himselfe to be Emperor That the Arch-bishop of Mentz shall aske the Voyces first of the Arch-bishop of Trier then of the Arch-bishop of Colon then of the King of Bohemia then of the Palatine then of the Duke of Saxony then of the Marquis of Brandeburg and lastly that these Princes shall aske the Voyce of the Arch-bishop of Mentz That the Empire being vacant the Count Palatine shall bee Prouisor of the Empire in Sueuia and Franconia as well in Iudgements as in conferring Church-liuings gathering of Rents inuesting of Vassals which inuesting notwithstanding is to bee renewed by the Emperour when he is chosen and Alienations c. That the Duke of Saxony shall haue the same right in his Prouinces That when the Emperour must answere any cause he shall answer before the Palatine so that be in the Imperiall Court That no man in the Court shal sit aboue the Electors That to a Secular Prince Elector his eldest Lay son shall succeed or for want of sons the first of the fathers Line and if he be vnder age that the eldest brother to the deceased father shall be his tutor till hee be eighteene yeares old and that this Tutor for that time shall haue all his right which he shall then restore to him and for want of heires males that the Emperour shall giue the Electorship to whom hee will excepting the King of Bohemia who is to bee chosen by the Bohemians That mines of mettals found in the Territories of any Elector shall bee proper to himselfe That the
forraine yet no man must wonder that wee spent more in wine then meat all my consorts being Dutch-men The fifth day wee went in the Phaltzgraues Countrey foure miles to Amberg through fruitfull Hils of corne and some few Woods and this City belongs to the Phaltzgraue being seated in the vpper Palatinate After dinner we went in the Marquesse of Anspach his Country who is also called the Burggaue of Nurnberg two miles to Hous-coate a Village where each man paid six Batzen for his supper The sixt day we went three miles passing by Erspruck a Citie subject to the Nurnbergers and many villages belonging to diuets Lords and a fort in the mid way called Schwang belonging to seuenty two Lords and being then by course in the Phaltzgraues keeping for all these Lords keepe the same by course for three yeeres The first and greater part of the way was through fruitfull Hils of corne the rest through sandy pastures and a Wood of a miles length Wee dined at a poore Village each man for six Batzen After dinner we went two miles to Nurnberg through sandy corne fields and passed by many houses and gardens of the Citizens whether they vse to come out of the City sometimes to recreate themselues The Wood which we passed in the morning lay on our left hand towards the South as wee entred the Citie on the east side and not farre from the City turneth itselfe and runneth farther towards the South The City of Nurnberg seated in a barren sandy ground yet is very rich by the Citizens industry For as commonly few be rich in a fertile Countrey either because hauing enough for food they are giuen to idlenesse or because abundance makes them prodigall so the Nurnbergers planted in a barren soyle by their subtile inuentions of Manuall workes and cunning Art draw the riches of all Countries to them The Riuer Bengetts runnes by the Citie but is not Nauigable nor beareth any the least boats This Riuer runnes from the East where wee entred the Towne towards the gate Lauff-thore and so compasseth the suburbs towards the South where diuiding into two beds it entreth the City and comming out againe at the West washeth the Citie walles On the East side the Margraues of Brandeburg besieged the City at the command of Charles the fifth therefore on this and the South side besides a dry ditch and two stone walles compassing the whole City diuers Bulwarkes are built vpon the wall On all sides as you come vp to the City the earth riseth and almost at euery gate there is a long suburbe Vpon the walles there be many Towers distant one from the other some 1000 ordinary walking paces and the vvhole circuit of the City is lesse then a German mile Among the said Towers three are stronger then the rest and furnished with Artillery The first is on the East side neere the gate Lauff-thore The second is on the South side vnder the gate Fraw-thore and on the same side is the gate Spittle-thore The third is on the North side vnder the gate New-thore and on the same side is another gate called Burk-thore There is a Castle called Burk which by Nero the Emperour was of his name called Noricum Castrum It is certaine that this Castle stood in the time of Charles the Great and the City being of it selfe not ancient is thought to haue had his name of this Castles old Latine name On the VVest side is the gate Haller-thore so called of him that caused it to be built where is a pleasant walke thicke shadowed with trees where the Citizens vse to walke for pleasure The City is absolute of it selfe being one of the free Cities of the Empire and mee thinks the chief or at least second to Augsburg surely it may perhaps yield to Augsburg in treasure and riches of the City but it must be preferred for the building whichis all of free stone sixe or seuen roofes high I speake of the whole City of Augsburg for one street thereof is most beautifull and some Pallaces there are fit for Princes of which kind Nurnberg hath none The Tower which I said was of old called Noricum Castrum hangs ouer the City which being seated in a plaine hath no mounts neere it and is of a round forme The said Tower is compassed with a drie ditch very deepe vpon the wall whereof they shaw a Spaniards blood there sprinkled who vndertooke to betray the Castle to Charles the fifth as also the print of a Horses feete in memory of a wonderfull leape from the Castle side to the other side of the bridge The Senate House lies vnder the side of this Castle or Tower as it were vnder the shield of Aiax and vnder the same house and vnder the earth be the publike prisons The Armory is built on the South side of the Towne and is opened to no man without consent of the Senate which in all other Cities of Germany is readily shewed to strangers And in that Armory by the Citizens report they haue 400. great peeces of Artillery with great store of all Munitions The City hath also a Granary which is so large as diuers yeeres prouision for corne may be laid vp therein It hath teri Churches whereof onely foure are vsed for prayers and preaching and in one of them lies buried Zebalemus-King of Denmarke who first conuerted the City to Christian Religion Neere the Church of Saint Laurence is the golden fountaine so called of the beauty and magnificence and it distils water out of twenty leaden pipes Neere the Church called Frawenkirk is another faire Fountaine guilded ouer and compassed with an iron grate It is vnlawful to walke in the night without a torch or a candle and lanthorne In the Innes they giue no beere at the table but diuers kinds of wine and a large diet if not delicate for which euery man paieth sixe batzen a meale and besides for his chamber or lodging which he may haue priuate to himselfe three creitzers by the day In the Almes-houses out of gifts by the last testament of those that die they maintaine great numbers of poore people and in one of them twelue old men apart and in another twelue old men and as many old weomen Whilst I liued at Prage and one night had set vp very late drinking at a feast early in the morning the Sunne beames glancing on my face as I lay in bed I dreamed that a shadow passing by told me that my father was dead at which awaking all in a sweat and affected with this dreame I rose and wrote the day and houre and all circumstances thereof in a paper booke which Booke with many other things I put into a barrel and sent it from Prage to Stode thence to be conuaied into England And now being at Nurnberg a Merchant of a noble family well acquainted with me and my friends arriued there who told me that my Father died some two moneths past I list not
came to Baltring subiect to a little free Citie called Bubery and here each man paied fiue Batzen for dinner and three for horse-meat Next morning after a miles riding we came to the City Bubery and rode two miles further to Waldshut through woody Mountaines and corne vallies which were so boggey as many times wee had almost stuck fast The Countrey belongs to the Arch-Duke of the family of Inspruck and heere wee paied each man nine Batzen for dinner and horsemeat After dinner wee rode two miles through a woody Country to Rauenspurg a free Citie seated betweene Mountaines whereof one hangeth ouer it and the Riuer Ach runneth by it in a narrow bed so as the waters falling from the Mountaines very swiftly doe many times ouerflow to the great damage of the Countrey and from the Mountaines many woodden pipes conuey water to the City In these parts bee many Almes houses for those that are infected with Leprosie who may not come neere the Passengers but doe beg of them a farre off with the sound of a woodden clapper Heere each man paid for his supper and horse-meat twelue Batzen and a halfe The first day of May we rode three miles one through a Wood the rest through a plaine of corne and inclosed pastures and Hils planted with Vines to the City Lindaw By the way vve saw the house of Count Montfort and passed the Riuer Arba by a Bridge which doth often ouerflow the plaine doing great hurt and there wee paid halfe a Creitzer tribute to the said Count for each man We were now come out of Sueuia and had rode two miles in Algoia and on the left hand towards the South we discouered the mouth of the Alpes which in this place is called Spliego Lindaw is a free City of the Empire which freedome it bought in the yeere 1166 and it is almost an I and seated in the lake called Acronius vulgarly Bodensea being ioyned to the continent by a Bridge of stone on the North-east side where it hath onely one gate called Burg-thore by which wee entred On this side the fields are very pleasant and planted with Vines and neere the Bridge there is a Rampier so old as they say it was erected by the Heathen before any Christians were Hence the City lies in length towards the South West partly on the West and altogether on the South side lies the lake Bodensea that is vpper sea close by the houses of the Citizens where they descend by staires to take water Beyond the lake are most high Mountaines which were then couered with snow and at the foot of the highest Mountaines there is a Tower which they report to be built by Hannibal neere which is the place famous by the defeat of Hasdrubal On this side the City they shew a stone whence they say the Saint called Aurelia passed the lake woe to them that beleeue at one step The Riuer Bregets falleth most violently from the said Mountaines whence also the Rheine discendeth in a narrow bed and may bee passed with horse and foot when it ouerfloweth not Both these runne into the Lake and the Rheine till it come out of the Lake againe loseth the name There is but one Church in the City besides a ruined Monastery The Citizens draw their water to seethe their meat and mingle it with wine not out of the Lake but from Wels. Three Consuls chosen for life and twenty Senators gouerne the City Beyond the Lake in the Territorie of the Arch Dukes of Austria is a bath of great vertue and a Monastery built by Otho the second with great priuiledges vpon a vow hee made being in great danger when he passed the Lake and there murtherers haue a sanctuary There is much salt made in the City and carried thence to other parts Heere I paied each meale six Batzen They drinke altogether wine whereof the measure of the old is giuen for eleuen Creitzers the new for nine of which measures twentie make some twenty two English beere quarts By ill fortune I was here forced to exhibite a Petition to the Consuls both in the Dutch and Latine tongues the euent whereof I will set downe after the Petition The forme whereof in English was this after the Dutch fashion euer tedious in their stiles or titles HOnourable prouident good wise Lords and Consuls I humbly desire you to respect my cause as of a stranger far from his friends and bereaued of his money by deceit Thus my case standeth Being at Nurnberg and purposing thence to goe to Bazell there to study I dealt with a Merchant that hee would exchange my money thither retaining onely so much as would plentifully serue mee for my expences thither There I met with M. B. a Citizen of Lindaw who told me that the gold Guldens of Rheine were not to be spent in these parts without losse So as I finding him acknowledged by the Carriers of this City then being there and by many Nurnbergers for the sonne of a Senator in this Towne was induced to deliuer him some gold Guldens to be paid mee heere in French Crownes and wee comming in company together to this Towne when I saw many principall Citizens gratalate his returne I was induced to deliuer him the rest of my gold Guldens which I had kept for the expence of my iourney vpon his promise to exchange them into French Crownes So as in all hee is to pay mee thirtie two French Crownes wanting six Creitzers for twenty seuen of which French Crownes and thirty six Creitzers I tooke his bill at Nurnberg but the rest I deliuered him here vpon his bare word Heere I expected his payment eight dayes and when I was instant with him to put off the payment no longer he is stoln out of the Towne and his brothers giue me no hope of payment being not so noble as to ponder the case rightly or to haue any due fecling of my state Being in this case not able without money to goe on my iourney or indure the delayes of a sute in Law against him heere all my hope is in your iust helpe which failing me I know not what course to take Therefore I desire earnestly of your worthinesse to assist mee and giue expedition to my cause that I may be deliuered by your goodnesse My debtor while he liued in the publike Inne with mee vsed mee with all curtesie but finding himselfe disinherited by his father lately dead and so dispairing of means to pay me he was now fled to the Monastery beyond the Lake being a sanctuary for wicked-persons and bankrupts He that knowes the honesty of the Dutch will not much maruell that I was thus deceiued by a Dutch-man whom I knew not to be tainted with forraine vices but it grieued me to be thus-scorned by fortune it afflicted me beyond measure that I should bee forced to spend the time dearer to mee then gold in following the Law at Lindaw which I hoped to imploy in
my studies at Bazell Therefore not to bee wanting to my selfe I hyred a horse and made this cozenage knowne to the Arch-Dukes officer desiring him to exclude my debtor from the priuiledge of the Monastery But this Dutch Gentleman finding mee to speake Latine readily tooke mee for some Schoole-master and despised both mee and my cause so as I returned to the Citie weary and sad hauing obtained no fauor But a better starre shined there on mee for the Consuls that day had determined in Court that my debtors horses should bee sought out and deliuered to mee and the Lawyers and Clearkes were so courteous to me as neither they nor any other would take the least reward of mee though I pressed them to receiue it Then my debtors brother being loth the horses should be carried away paid me my mony and I gladly tooke my iourney thence towads Bazel This integrity of the Dutch Magistrates which especially in the Cities of the reformed Religion hauing found by many testimonies I cannot sufficiently commend and curtesie of the Dutch towards strangers I haue thought good in this place thankefully to acknowledge Vpon the Lake Acrontiis vulgarly Boden-sea that is vpper sea I passed by boate foure miles to Costnetz and paied for my passage three Batzen Betweene this vpper sea and the lower sea vulgarly Vnden-sea this Citie Costnetz lyeth on the banke lengthwise and is subiect to Ferdinand of Inspruch Arch-Duke of Austria whose base sonne hath also the Bishopricke of that City which is famous by a Councell held there whither Iohn Hus was called with the Emperours safe conduct in the yeere 1414 yet was there condemned of Heresie and burned On the West side of the Citie within the walles in the Monastery called Barfussen Cloyster is the Tower wherein he was imprisoned and without the walles on the left hand as you goeout is a faire meadow and therein a stone vpon the high-way to which he was bound being burnt the same yeere 1414 in the Month of Iuly Where also his fellow Ierom of Prage was burnt in September the yeere following both their ashes being cast into the Lake lest the Bohemians should carry them away The Senate-house in which this Councell was held is of no beauty When the Emperour Charles the fifth besieged this Citie it was yeelded to the hands of Ferdinand King of Bohemia and brother to Charles who made the Citizens peace for them Heere each man paid eight Batzen a meale and for wine betweene meales eight creitzers the measure Hence I went by boat two miles to Styga and paied for my passage two Batzen We tooke boat at the end of the Lake close by the City where the Rheine comming againe out of the Lake and taking his name therein lost doth runne in all narrow bed and when wee had gone by water some houre and a halfe wee entred the lower Lake called Vnden-sea Neere Costnetz is an Iland called little Meinow and in this lower lake is another Iland called Reichnow of the riches the Monastery therof hauing of old so much lands as the Monkes being sent to Rome vsed to lodge euery night in their owne possessions This Iland is said to beare nothing that hath poyson so as any such beast dieth presently in it and in the Monastery are some reliques of Saint Marke for which as they say the Venetians haue offered much money VVriters report that of old a Monke thereof climing vp a ladder to looke into a huge vessell of wine and being ouercome with the vapour fell into the same with a great bunch of keyes in his hand and that shortly after this wine was so famous as Princes and Nobles and many sickly persons vsually sent for the same the cause of the goodnes being not knowne to proceed of the putrified flesh till the vessell being empty the keyes and the Friers bones were found therein the Monkes till then thinking that their fellow had secretly gone to some other Monastery of that Order yet the Dutch in my company reported that this happened in a Monastery not farre off called Salmanschwell By the way was a stately Pallace belonging to the Fugares of Augsburg On the East-side out of the walles of Styga lye woody fields on the West-side the Iland Horue and pleasant Hils full of vines and corne In this City the Bishop of Costnetz hath his Pallace who is Lord of the two Ilands Meinow and Reichnow and hath very large possessions in these parts mingled with the territories of other Lords And this City is vpon the confines of Germany and Sweitzerland Hence I passed by boat two miles to Schaffhausen and paied for my passage two Batzen The swistnes of the Rheine made the miles seeme short and this riuer againe loseth his name in the said lower Lake and when it comes or rather violently breakes out of it then resumes it againe This City is one of the confederate Cantons of Sweitzerland Not farre from this City on the South side in the riuer Rheine is a great fall of the waters ouer a rocke some fifty cubits downeward passing with huge noyse and ending all in fome And for this cause the Barkes are forced to vnlade here and to carry their goods by carts to the City and from the City to imbarke them againe which yeeldeth great profit to the City by taxations imposed on the goods which must necessarily be landed there On both sides the riuer as we came to this City are pleasant hils planted with vines faire pastures with sweet groues The City is round in forme and is washed with the Rheine on the South side and vpon the banke of the riuer within the Towne is a pleasant greene where the Citizens meete to exercise the shooting of the Harquebuze and crosse-Bow where also is a Lynden or Teyle tree giuing so large a shade as vpon the top it hath a kinde of chamber boarded on the floore with windowes on the sides and a cocke which being turned water fals into a vessel through diuers pipes by which it is conueyed thither for washing of glasses and other vses and heere the Citizens vse to drinke and feast together there being sixe tables for that purpose On the same South side is a Monastery with walles and gates like a little City It hath the name of 〈◊〉 that is a sheepe or Schiff that is a ship and Hausse that is a house as of a fold for 〈◊〉 or roade for shippes Here I paid for each meale six batzen For the better vnderstanding of my iourney from Schafhusen to Zurech I will prefix a letter which I wrote to that purpose from Bazel To the Right Worshipfull Master Doctor Iohn Vlmer IN those few houres I staid at Schafhusen you haue made me your Seruant for euer I remember the houres of our conuersation which for the sweetnes thereof seemed minutes to me I remember the good offices you did towards me a stranger with gentlenes if not proper to your selfe yet proper
plaine of inclosed pastures Entering the City we passed the brooke Limachus by a bridge the Suburbs are built vpon the ascent of a Mountaine and the City on the top of it where there is a Castle vpon a Rocke of old very strong but now ruinated on the North side descending into a valley by the brooke on the right hand or vpon the East side within a musket shot lie the Baths which are famous for medicine and are in number thirty seated on each side the Brooke which diuideth them into Bethora the great and the little In the great diuers Bathes are contained vnder one roofe of a faire house and without the gate are two common to the poore These waters are so strong of brimstone as the very smoake warmeth them that come neere and the waters burne those that touch them Of these one is called the Marques Bath and is so hot as it will scald off the haire of a Hogge many hauing no disease but that of loue how soeuer they faine sickenesse of body come hither for remedy and many times find it Weomen come hither as richly attired as if they came to a marriage for Men Weomen Monkes and Nunnes sit all together in the same water parted with boords but so as they may mutually speake and touch and it is a rule here to shun all sadnes neither is any iealousie admitted for a naked touch The waters are so cleere as a penny may be seene in the bottome and because melancholy must be auoided they recreate themselues with many sports while they sit in the water namely at cards and with casting vp and catching little stones to which purpose they haue a little table swimming vpon the water vpon which sometimes they doe likewise eate These Bathes are very good for Weomen that are barren They are also good for a cold braine and a stomacke charged with rhume but are hurtfull for hot and dry complexions and in that respect they are held better for Weomen then Men. The Innes were wont to pay tribute to the three Cantons of Baden Brucke and Bazell but now Baden alone makes great profit of them by the great concourse of sickely persons and the Parliaments of the Cantons commonly held there I paid for my diet six Batzen a meale From hence I hired a Horse at the same rate as before and passing through woody Mountaines came in three houres riding to the City Brucke By the way I passed the Brooke Russe which runneth from Lucerna into these parts and the boate was drawne by a cable running vpon a wheele by reason of the waters swift course where I paide for my passage sixe creitzers and when I came neere Bruck I passed the Brooke Ara by a bridge paying one creitzer for tribute and here I paid fiue batzen a meale From hence hiring a horse as before I rode in two houres space to Hornsea through steepe Mountaines and a wood of Oake by the way lies Kingsfeld that is Kingly field a Monastery so called because Widowe Queenes and Kings forsaking their Scepters and inferiour Princes were wont of old to enter into this place for the solitary profession of Religion In the same Cloyster of old liued the Friars of Saint Francis order in the building on the right hand as you come in and the Nunnes of Saint Clara on the left hand and both came to the same Chappell the Friars to the body of the Church and the Nunnes to close galleries aboue looking out and hearing through grates The Emperour Albertus being killed by his Nephew in the yeere 1380. at Santbacke three miles distant this Monastery was built for his memory though his bones were buried at Spire The reuenewes of this monastery grew in time to be yeerly forty thousand Guldens which are now appropriated to the common treasure of the Sweitzer Cantons Leopold Duke of Austria lies here buried Ferdinand of Insprucke one of the Archdukes of Austria is Lord of Hornesea all the rest of the territories from Schafhusen to this place belonging to the Cantons of Sweitzerland and here I paid sixe batzen a meale Hence I hired a horse as before and rode in fiue houres to Rheinefeld through fruitfull hils of corne hauing on all sides wooddy Mountaines in sight Here againe I passed the Rheine and paid two raps for my horse and my selfe foot-men paying but one The Rheine passeth by with a violent course and washeth the Towne on the East side Here I paid sixe Batzen a meale Hence hiring a Horse as before I rode in two houres space to Bazell through a faire plaine of corne and pasture lying vpon the Rheine hauing on all sides woody Mountaines in sight and neere the City were most pleasant fields planted with vines to the which fields the territory of the said Arch-duke extendeth on the East side of the Rheine I entered by little Bazell seated in a plaine on the East side of Rheine and so passed by a bridge of wood into the greater Bazell seated vpon pleasant hils on the West side of Rheine This City of old was one of the imperiall free Cities but now is ioined to the Cantons of Sweitzerland and was built in the yeere 3 2 hauing the name of a Basiliske slaine by a Knight couered with cristall or of the word Pasell which in Dutch signifies a beaten path or of the greeke word 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 as a kingly City The lesse Bazell was of old built by an Arch-duke of Austria in preiudice of the greater and after being sold to it for thirty thousand guldens was incorporated therevnto The greater hath many caues vnder the hils and suffered a great earth-quake in the yeere 1346 at which time the Pallace neere the Cathedrall Church fell into the Rheine and another Earth-quake in the yeere 1356. wherein 180. persons were killed all the people flying out of the Towne Eugenius the Pope held a Councell in this City the yeere 1431. The Bridge of wood ioyning the little and great City diuided by the Rheine is broad enough for two carts to passe at once and towards little Bazell six Arches are of stone but towards great Bazell where the Rheine tunneth most swiftly eight Arches are built of wood that they may be more easily repaired and vpon any warre from Germany more readily broken downe This City is of the forme of an half Moone I meane the great City reckoning the lesse for a Suburbe and being seated upon diuers hils on the West side of the Rheine imbraceth betweene the two hornes the lesser City seated in a plaine on the East side of Rheine On the West side of the greater the Emperor Rodulphus of Habspurg besieged the City and on this side something towards the North within the walles is a most pleasant greene for walking called peter platz In this place is the Armory of the City and the tribunal of Iustice and some faire houses of priuate men and a most pleasant shade of trees among
said before that the boats and barkes comming downe are sold at the end of the way because they cannot be brought vp against the streame Brisake is seated vpon a round and high Mountaine and though it bee improbable that there should be any want of waters so neere the foot of the Alpes yet this City hath a fountaine where water is sold and a certaine price is giuen for the watering of euery beast VVe passed the other eight miles to Strasburg the same day in eight houres being helped with the same swiftnesse of the Rheine which being oft diuided by the way makes many little Ilands The bridge of Strasburg ouer the Rheine is more then a Musket shot from the City on the East side therof The bridge is of wood and hath threescore fiue Arches each distant from the other twenty walking paces and it is so narrow that an horse-man can hardly passe by a cart it lying open on both sides and it is built of small pieces of timber laid a crosse which lye loose so as one end being pressed with any weight the other is lifted vp with danger to fall into the water It is like they build no stronger bridge either because they haue tryed that the swift course of the Rheine will easily breake it downe or because in the time of warre it may be good for them to breake it in which case it were farre greater charge to rebuild it with stone then with wood The Rheine lying thus farre off from the City the boats are brought vp to the same by a little channell The brookes of Bress and Elb passe through many streets of the City and fill all the large ditches thereof with water The City is very well fortified hauing high walles of earth the bottomes whereof are fastned with stone and the sides with trees planted on the same On the VVest side towards France are the gates Weissen-thore and Rheine-thore On the East side toward the Rheine is the gate Croneberg-thore at which though it be out of the way for the iealousie of neighbour-hood the French must enter and at no other On the East side is the Butchers gate called Metsiger-thore On the same side is the Cathedrall Church The circuit of the Cty is three houres walking The buildings and Churches are faire and high of free stone most of the streets are narrow but those diuided by water are broader I paied six Batzen a meale and for wine extraordinary three Batzen the measure Many things in this City are remarkable The Steeple of the Cathedrall Church is most beautifull and numbred among the seuen miracles of the world being begun in the yeere 1277 and scarce finished in twentie eight yeeres In the building of one gate thereof they say three Kings treasure was spent in whose memory three statuaes are there ingrauen The Church is couered with lead which is rare in Germany where the chiefe Churches are couered with brasse growing in the Countrey The brazen gates of this church are curiously carued The Clocke thereof is of all other most famous being inuented by Conradus Dasipodius in the yeere 1571. Before the Clocke stands a globe on the ground shewing the motion of the heauens starres and planets namely of the heauen carried about by the first mouer in twenty foure houres of Saturne by his proper motion carried about in thirty yeeeres of Iupiter in twelue of Mars in two of the Sunne Mercury and Venus in one yeere of the Moone in one month In the Clocke it selfe there be two tables on the right and left hand shewing the eclipses of the Sunne and Moone from the yeere 1573 to the yeere 1605. The third table in the midst is diuided into three parts In the first part the statuaes of Apollo and Diana shew the course of the yeere and the day thereof being carried about in one yeere The second part shewes the yeere of our Lord and of the world the Equinoctiall dayes the houres of each day the minutes of each houre Easter day and all other feasts and the Dominicall Letter The third part hath the Geographicall discription of all Germany and particularly of Strasburg and the names of the Inuentor and of all the worke-men In the middle frame of the Clocke is an Astrolobe shewing the signe in which each Planet is euery day and there be the statuaes of the seuen Planets vpon a round piece of iron lying flat so as euery day the statua of the Planet comes forth that rules the day the rest being hid within the frame till they come out by course at their day as the Sun vpon Sunday and so for all the weeke And there is a terrestriall globe and the quarter and halfe houre and the minuts are shewed There is also the skull of a dead man and two statuaes of two boyes whereof one turnes the houre-glasse when the Clocke hath strucken the other puts forward the rod in his hand at each stroke of the clocke Moreouer there be statuaes of the spring summer Autumne and winter and many obseruations of the Moone In the vpper part of the clocke are foure old mens stutuaes which strike the quarters of the houre the statua of death comming out each quarter to strike but being driuen backe by the statua of Christ with a speare in his hand for three quarters but in the fourth quarter that of Christ goeth backe and that of death strikes the houre with a bone in the hand and then the chimes sound On the top of the clocke is an Image of a Cock which twice in the day croweth alowd and beateth his wings Besides this clocke is decked with many rare pictures and being on the inside of the Church carrieth another frame to the outside of the wall wherein the houres of the Sunne the courses of the Moone the length of the day and such like things are set out with great Art Besides in the City there is a faire house in which citizens and strangers at publike meetings or otherwise vse to feast their inuited friends Neere the gate Rheinethore is the Armory vulgarly Zeighauss which aboundeth with Ordinance and all Munitions They haue a Theater for Comedies and a Tower to lay vp their treasure called penny Tower vulgarly Phennigthurne They say this City is called Argentina in latine of the word Argentum because the Romans of old laid vp their treasure here and Strassburg in Dutch of the word strass that is way and Burg that is a City as being built where many waies lead to many Prouinces I had almost omitted one remarkeable thing namely the faire House of the Cannons called Bruderhoff that is the Court of the Brethren I hired a coach for a Dollor my person from Strassburg to Heidelberg being sixteene miles The first day after dinner I went foure miles to Leichtenou through a plaine all compassed with Gardens and Orchards and paid six batzen for my supper The next morning we went foure miles to Milberk through a sandy
foure miles to Bentzon hauing hils on my right hand toward the East planted with Vines and fields set with roots and vpon my left hand towards the West a faire and fruitfull plaine and here I paid seuen Batzen for my supper The second day in the morning I passed foure miles in the territory of George Landgraue of Hessen to Arhelygen through wooddy mountaines planted with some Vines and a plaine for one mile sandy but the rest good pasture We passed by Dormstat where the said Landgraue holds his Court and there each man paid sixe Fenning tribute At Arheligen I paid sixe Batzen for my dinner In the afternoone I passed some three miles to Franckfort through a sandy plaine and a wood of Oakes and Beeches and by the way they shewed vs a strange leape of a Stagge which being chased did leape ouer a cart if you may beleeue them loaded with hey Franckfort is a free City of the Empire famous for the Electors meeting there to choose the Emperour and for two yeerely Faires as also for many Parliaments of the Empire held there and it is called Franckfort vpon the Maene to distinguish it from another City of the same name built vpon the Brooke Odera and named thereof For the Riuer Maene running from the East to the West diuideth the great City from the lesse called the Saxons House vulgarly Sachsen-hausse and betweene them is a bridge of stone vpon foure narrow Arches Both the Cities are gouerned by the same Senate and Law and haue the fame name either of Francus rebuilding it or of a Foord for passage of the Franckes or French The City is compassed strongly with a double wall and vpon the East side is the gate Heilegthore where is the Iewes street who are permiteed to dwell in this famous Mart-towne and sucke the blood of Christians by extortion There is another gate called Freydigthore On the North side of the City is the gate Brickenport and a large place for an Horse Faire On the West side is the gate of strangers vulgarly Welsh-thore so called because the French enter that way it is very strong and without the gate there is a very pleasant walke vpon the banke of Maene among Vineyards and Meadowes with sweet Groues On the South side the Maene runneth by diuiding as I said the new City from the old In the new or lesse City called the Saxons-house is a house of old belonging to the Teutonike order of Knights which by old priuiledge is to this day a Sanctuary for banckrupts and manslaiers so they be not wilful and malicious murtherers but they enioy this priuiledge onely for foureteene daies so as when the time is neere out or vpon any opportunity during the time they vse to steale out and returning after an houre begin a new to reckon againe the foureteene daies A little before my comming thither a certaine bankrupt of Colen entered the same for a debt of twenty thousand Guldens On this side some ground without the wals belongs to the City but on other sides it hath almost no Land without the wals The City is of a round forme seated in a large plaine the streetes are narrow and the houses built of timber and clay the foundations of some being of stone In the Innes they aske seuen or eight batzen a meale but Merchants and many strangers vse to hire a chamber and buy their meat of the Cookes From hence to Hamburge I and foure others hired a Coach for fifty Dollers and besides were to pay for the coach-mans diet for here first the coach-man conditioned to be free from paying his diet vulgarly Maulfrey that is free for the mouth whereas in other parts our coach-men paid for themselues Alwaies vnderstand that at the times of the faires Coaches are set dearer then any time els The first day after breakfast wee went three miles to Freideburge through corne fields set with cabages and rootes and by the way we passed a Village belonging to the Count of Hanaw Freideburge is a free City of the Empire and the buildings are of timber and clay here each man paid seuen batzen for his supper and for his part of the coach-mans supper The second day in the morning we went three miles to Geysen through fruitfull hils of corne Phillip Landgraue of Hessen left three sonnes William of Cassiles whom Maurice his sonne succeeded and was now liuing and Lodwicke of Marpurg and George of Dormstat This territory belonged to the Landgraue Lodwicke for all the brothers in Germany haue the same stile of honour and he was also at that time Lord of this City Geysell which is fortified with wals of earth and deepe ditches but the building is base of timber and clay and for the most of meere dirt These verses were written vpon the gate of the City Captus erat Princeps non marte sed Arte Philippus Cum bene munitum destrueretur opus Nominis hoc patrij Lodouicus amore refecit Anno bis septem lustra sequente none Principe dignus honos patrias surcire ruinas A quibus Hassiacos Cbriste tuere polos Prince Phillip captiu'de not by warre but Art This worke of strength was then demolished In Countries loue Prince Lodwicke for his part Rebuilt it seuenty nine yeeres finished Ruines repaire is for a Princes hand From which disasters Christ shield Hessen land Here I paid sixe Batzen for my dinner and my part for the Coach-man In the afternoone we went three miles through high stony mountaines and woods of oakes to Kirnham belonging to the Landgraue Lodwick whose Court at Marpurg lies a mile from thence All of vs at supper drunke sixe measures of wine besides beere and from henceforth wee paid seuerally for meat and drinke and at this time each of vs paid ten Weissenfenning for both together The third day we passed three miles to Drest through high mountaines with woods of Oake and many fruitfull valleies of corne and each man paid with his portion for the Coach-man foure Weissenfenning for meat and as much for wine This territory belongs to Landgraue Maurice of Cassiles After dinner we passed three miles to Fester through high mountaines full of oake woods and entered the City seated vpon a mountaine by a bridge of stone vpon which side great store of water fals from the mountaines the houses were of timber and clay each one for the most part hauing a dunghill at the doore more like a poore Village then a City but such are the buildings of the Cities in Hessen the houses of Villages being of meere dirt and thatched Here each man paid for his meat and old wine and his part for the Coach-man an Orts Doller or fourth part of a Doller The fourth day we passed three miles to Cassiles a City where the Landgraue Maurice holds his Court all our way lying through fruitfull hils of corne The City is strongly fortified with wals of earth and deepe ditches but the houses are basely
built like the rest in Hessen Phellip his grandfather built the castle and William his father the wals For my dinner and my part for the coach-man I paide the fourth part of a Doller In the afternoone we passed two miles through woody mountaines to Myndaw in the territory of the Duke of Brunswike who is also Lord of the City The Riuer Visurgis runnes by it ouer which there is a bridge of stone vpon fiue Arches Here each man paid for himselfe and his part for the coach-man seuen maria-groshen for meat and as much for wine The beere of this territory is very bitter and like a potion makes one laxatiue The fifth day we passed three miles and a halfe through Mountaines for halfe the way and the rest through corne fields most fruitfull and dined at Norton each man paying fiue batzen and a halfe After dinner we passed two miles and a halfe to a poore Village through a like fruitfull plaine of corne and by the way we passed Namerton a City belonging to the Duke of Brunswicke In this Village each man paid fiue Maria-groshen The sixt day we passed two miles to the City Zeason through hils and fields of corne the building of the City is of meere clay couered with thatch but our diet was plentifull and each man paid sixe Maria-groshen for himselfe and his part for the Coach-man After dinner we passed three miles to a poore village through wooddy mountaines yet fruitfull of corne and pasture and through a great Fen and here each man paid seuen Maria-groshen The seuenth day we passed three miles to Brunswike through a fruitfull plaine of corne end a large Fen set with willow trees neere the City Many fields as we came besides the corne were set with cabage and rootes and within a mile of Brunswike we left on the right hand toward the South the City Wolfenbieten where the Duke of Brunswike keepes his Court and though he be so called of an old title yet he is not Lord of Brunswike which is a free City of the Empire seated in a plaine all the territory round about it being most fruitfull in corne The City is of a quadrangle forme and in circuit containes two miles being held greater then Nurnberg and lesse then Erford It hath high wals of earth fastened with willowes and is very strong hauing the wals on some sides double and otherwhere treble besides that it hath a wooddy valley between deepe ditches filled with water and is compassed with the Riuer Aneur Within this wall and riuer are fiue Cities distinguished by priuiledges but vnited by lawes The first seated towards the west is called Altstat that is Old city hauing almost at the entrance a faire market place and neere it the cathedrall Church called Martinstifft The second lying towards the North is called Newstat that is New city The third lying towards the East is called Imsacke The fourth lying towards the South is called Imhagen And the fifth which was built first of all and lieth also towards the South is called Altweg that is The old way This city of old was the metropolitan city of Saxony and had the name of Bruno and the Dutch word Vuick signifying a Village It hath twelue Churches whereof two haue the steeples couered with lead which being very rare in Germany is held to be magnificent the rest are couered with tiles one excepted which to my remembrance is couered with brasse which being lesserare with them is lesse esteemed and the houses are built of timber and clay In the yard of the Cathedrall Church there is the statua of a very great Lion which the Emperour Henry the first surnamed Lyon erected there From Branswike I went to Luneburge and the first day in the morning passed foure miles to a certaine Village through a sandy plaine and fenny wild ground and by the way we passed Getherne a village where the Duke of Luneburge Lord of this territory hath a Castle and he holds his court some fiue miles off at Sell. Here each man paid for his dinner fiue Lubecke shillings In the afternoone we passed fiue miles to a countrey house through like Fenny and woody wild grounds seeing but one Village in the way and here each man paid for supper three Lubecke shillings Next morning we passed foure miles to a Village Empsdorff through like grounds and here each man paid for dinner fiue Lubecke shillings the coach-mans part being reckoned for I formerly said that hiring a Coach from Franckfort to Hamburg we were tied to pay for the coach-mans diet himselfe paying for his horse-meat as commonly they doe After dinner we passed three miles to Luneburge through a soyle as barren as the former where each man paid for himselfe and his part of the coach-mans supper eight Lubecke shillings I speake nothing of the City which I haue described before but goe on with my iourney The next morning we passed three miles to Wintzon through a Fenny ground and woods of Oake yeelding some corne but sparingly and here our coach-man paid a Lubecke shilling for his Coach to the Duke of Luneburge whose territory endeth here Then we passed a mile further to Bergendorff and by the way our coach-man passing ouer the Elue paid a Lubecke shilling to the Officers of the Cities of Lubecke and Hamburg to which Cities this territory is subiect and gouerned by them in course the soyle whereof after the passage of the Elue is more fruitfull the fields being full of corne and ditches of water planted with willowes here each man paid six Lubecke shillings for our dinners In the afternoone we passed three miles to Hamburge hauing on the left side towards the West faire pastures and on the right hand towards the East woods of oake and fruitfull hils of corne From hence I passed by boat with a faire wind in three houres to Stode and paid for my passage three Lubeck shillings These things I briefly set downe hauing described these Cities before From Stode I wrote this Letter to Francis Markham an English gentleman whom I left at Heidelberg NOble Sir I gladly take this occasion of witnessing my loue to you which in a word I haue done omitting all ceremonies as your selfe haue giuen me example Onely for my promise sake I will trouble you with the short relation of my iourney When we parted at Eranckfort you know I had for companions of my iourney two Flemmings poore Merchants of Linnen cloth and a Dutch Rider and a Booke-binder of Denmarke I comming first to the Coach tooke the most commodious seat which these my worthy companions forsooth tooke in ill part yet neither their murmuring nor rude speeches could make me yeeld the place to them Wee passed through Hessen to Brunswike which iourney since you purpose to take I aduise you to passe as soone as you can that you may be out of your paine and come to more pleasant Countries for there you shall haue grosse meat sower
cloth as would couer the same with a Rose-noble at the corner of each cloth Others tell a fable of like credit that it was once sold to a Merchant whom they scoffed when he came to take possession bidding him take away the earth he had bought The great reuenew exacted in this straight hath giuen occasion to these and the like fables And in truth if either the King of Suetia or the free City of Lubeck had the possession of this Iland and were fortified therein they might easily command this passage and extort what they list from the Merchants passing that way and perhaps conquer the parts adioyning but the possession thereof were altogether vnprofitable for any Prince whose Territories lie out of the Sound the entrance whereof is forbid by the two foresaid strong Castles But lest I should bee as foolish as they I returne to my purpose And first giue me leaue to mention that there lies a City not farre distant in the Kingdome of Norway which is called London as the chiefe City in England is called Vpon Sunday the twenty six of August in the yeere 1593 I tooke an English ship heere to saile into Prussen hauing first bought for my victuals halfe a lambe for twelue Danish shillings thirty egges for six shillings and some few pots of Spanish wine for forty two Danish shillings with some other small prouisions From Elsinure to Dantzk they reckon eighty English miles Assoone as wee were come out of the harbour wee saw two ships sayling two contrary wayes and yet hauing both a forewind which sometimes happens vpon the shoare as marriners know For of these two contrary winds the one is airy which holds when you are gone into the maine the other is from the earth and in short time faileth at the very shore which euent we presently saw with our eyes one of the ships going fairely on his course the other casting anchor The English ship in which I went was called the Antilope being of one hundred fifty tuns or thereabouts and one Master Bodley was the Master thereof who shewed me manifest signes where his ship in two places had beene struck with lightning the first whereof passed into the pumpe and rent it but comming to the water was by the nature thereof carried vpward and comming out at the top of the pumpe made two little holes then passing to the great Mast rent it and made a great crany therein from the hatches to the top The second struck the top of the said maine Mast and againe rent it in such wise as it would scarcely beare saile till wee might come to Dantzk where the best Mastes are sold at a good rate The first day we sayled in the Baltick sea some fiue miles with a scant winde and cast anchor neere Copenhagen With a faire winde and good gaile Marriners vsually sayle some three Dutch leagues in an houre On Monday early wee sayled along the shore three miles to Falsterboden On Tuesday early wee sayled eighteene miles to the Iland Brentholm and vpon our left hands saw the land in two places and there sounding with our plummet sand of Amber stuck thereunto The same day by noone wee sayled the length of that Iland and vpon Wednesday by three of the clocke in the morning hauing sayled thirty miles we passed by Rose-head being a Promentory 〈◊〉 Dantzk On Thurs-day by eight of the clocke in the morning hauing sayled eighteene miles we came to a Land called Rettell and entered the Port of Meluin where the water was scarce two fadome deepe our ship drawing one fadome and a halfe the entry was narrow and there were many booyes floting vpon shoales sands and the weather being calme we were drawne in by a boate with Oares In like cases ships vse to draw themselues in by the casting and weighing of Anchors with great labour and flow riddance of way From Kettell we passed ten miles and came to the Port of Meluin Iu the aforesaid entry of the Riuer on the right hand towards the West we saw Dantzke seated not farre from the sea shore where it hath a hauen but not so safe as this and towards the North-east in the same place a channell runneth vp to Konigsberg the Court of the Duke of Prussen The Port of Meluin is searce ten foot deepe but our ship passed through the mud like a plow vpon land This port is a little distant from the City on the North-side where we entered by a faire large street called Martgasse lying thence towards the South Prussen of old was subiect to the order of the Teutonicke Knights but by agreement made betweene the King of Poland and the Margraue or Marques of Brandeburg Master of the said order part of the prouince was giuen to the said Marques and his heires with title of Duke vnder homage to the King of Poland with condition that for want of heire male it should returne to the Kingdome of Poland and the other part was then vnited to the said Kingdome but Dantzke and Meluin remained free Cities acknowledging the King of Poland for their Protector for which cause they giue him many customes and permit his Officer to abide in the City ard receiue the same Meluin is a little and faire City lately compassed with new wals and at this time grew rich by the English Merchants hauing their staple in the same They giue good fare for foure grosh a meale and he that paies for two meales in the day may besides haue meat or drinke betweene meales at pleasure without paying any thing The same euening we landed at Meluin our Marriners staying in the ship entertained other English Marriners comming aboard and according to their custome giuing them a peece when they departed it happened that the peece being of iron brake and therewith cut the Cooke off by the middle and rent all the prow of the ship The English Merchants at Meluin had no Preacher though the Citizens gaue them free exercise of religion so that how so euer they excused in by reason that learned Preachers could hardly be drawne to come so farre for meanes to liue yet I thought them not free of blame in this point because our Merchants further distant in Asia and liuing vnder the Turkes Empire found meanes by their bounty to haue learned Preachers Neither indeed did I euer obserue in any other place Italy excepted that our Merchants wanted Preachers where they held their staples From Meluin I went ten miles in one day to Dantzke and we being onely two conforts paid each of vs a Doller for our Coach In the morning we went sixe miles and by the way passed the Riuer Begot comming out of the riuer Vistula where our Coachman paid three grosh to haue his Coach carried ouer a damme Beyond this riuer we entered the territory of the King of Poland and passing all this way through fruitfull come fields and rich medowes and pastures in a Countrey abounding with
third stole away secretly into France On the same side is a Chappell in the which the Kings are buried Vpon the East side of this City where this Castle is seated lie foure suburbes namely the Iewes little City and Cagmen which is diuided by the riuer Vistula from the other two called Stradam and the Stewes And Stradam belongs to the City but the rest haue their own Magistrates and priuiledges Towards the South and South-west lies the suburb Garbatz belonging to the City which of late was burnt in the ciuill war by the forces of Zamosky one of the Palatines and Chancellor of the Kingdome defending the Election of Sigismund now King against Maximilian of Austria chosen King by another party On the North side are the suburbs Biskop and Clepart which haue their owne Magistrates From hence being to take my iourney for Italy I bought a horse for eighteene Guldens and he that sold him according to the manner there vsed caused his bridle to be put on and so by the same deliuered the horse into my hands I paied fifteene grosh for a paire of shooes fifty for a paire of boots nine for spurs two guldens and a halfe for a saddle a gulden and a halfe for other furniture for my iourney nine grosh for stirrups eight grosh for foure horse shooes and eight grosh for each bushell of oates An Italian Gentleman being to returne into Italy bought likewise a horse and with this faire companion I tooke my iourney The first day towards euening we rode two miles through fruitfull hills of corne to a Country house where I paied for my supper two grosh for hay a grosh a halfe for a quarter of a bushel of oates two grosh and gaue to the Ostler halfe a grosh The second day in the morning we rode three miles through woods of firre to a village where I paied for my dinner two grosh for hay halfe a grosh for the third part of a bushell of oates a grosh and a halfe After dinner we rode one mile and a halfe through a great wood hauing the Mountaines of Hungary on our left hand and passing the riuer Vistula wee rode a mile through fenny fields and woods of firre and beech and came to a little Citie Opsenson where I paid for my supper eight grosh and for some three English pintes of wine fiue grosh for beere a grosh and a halfe for a third part of a bushell of oates nine grosh and for hay and straw a grosh and a halfe and this City was subiect to a Gentleman of Poland The third day in the morning wee rode three miles and a halfe through fields somewhat ouerflowed but fruitfull in corne and a wood of firre to Plesua subiect to the Barrons of Promnitz and seated in Silesia a Prouince of the Dutch Empire for after one miles riding we came out of Poland into the said Prouince which is subiect to the Emperour as likewise Morauia is by his right as hee is King of Bohemia but in Silesia they speake Dutch and Morauia hath his owne language little differing from that of Bohemia Also in our way we passed the riuer Vistula by boat and another arme thereof by a bridge Here the Barrons of Promnitz haue a Castle wherein they reside and here I paied for my dinner sixe grosh for beere one for hay and a third part of a bushel of oates two grosh and for a measure of wine somewhat bigger then the English quart ten grosh After dinner we rode two miles through fruitfull fields of corne to a little City subiect to the Emperour not by large subiection but proper right to all the Reuenewes of that Territory as he is King of Bohemia and I paied for supper three grosh for a third part of a bushell of oates with hay and straw fiue grosh The fourth day we rode two miles in the morning being now entred into Morauia where the miles are exceeding long as they be in Bohemia and we passed through most fruitful hils of corne and some woods and came to a little village seated a little beyond the City Freestat belonging to the Dukes of Tesch and here I paied for my dinner three grosh and as much for my horse-meat After dinner we rodetwo miles through hils and mountaines fruitfull of corne and some woods of oakes for Morauia is a pleasant Countrey very fruitfull and full of townes and villages and wee came to Ostrenam where I paied for my supper three grosh for beere two for my horse-meat foure and a halfe The fift day in the morning we rode three miles through fruitfull hils of corne to the village Boteuisa being very pleasant and full of orchards and subiect to a Gentleman of that Countrey By the way we passed on horse-backe two armes of the riuer Odera which hath his head three miles distant Heere wee dined with the Preacher or Minister of the Towne because the Hoste of the Inne was newly dead I paied for my dinner foure grosh for beere one grosh and for horse-meat two grosh Afterdinner we rode two miles through most fruitfull hils of corne to a pleasant village as all Morauia is pleasant and fertile and I paied for my supper fiue grosh and foure for my horse meat The sixth day in the morning we rode three miles through fruitful hils of corne hauing woody Mountaines on both hands and in the midst of the way passed by the City Granitz and came to Leipny The Cities in these parts are built with Arches halfe ouer the streets so as in the greatest raine a man may passe in the streets vnder them with a dry foot and such is the building of this little City where in some thirty families of Iewes did dwell Here I paied for my dinner foure grosh and for my horse-meat two grosh hitherto I meane groshes of Poland After dinner we rode a mile and a halfe in a paued way with corne fields on both hands to the City Speron where I paied for my supper fiue grosh I meane now and hereafter groshes of Morauia and for my horse-meat three grosh and here I paied for an Orange two grosh In this iourney through Poland and from Cracaw to this place we had heere the first bed hauing before lodged vpon benches in a warme stoue The seuenth day in the morning wee rode two very long miles through most fruitfull hils of corne rich pastures to a village hauing by the way passed by the Citie of Creitzon wherein many Iewes dwelt by very many villages and here I paied for my dinner three grosh for my horse-meat one grosh for a measure of wine like an English pint three creitzers After dinner we rode a mile and a halfe through most fruitfull hils of corne to a place called The Iewes village beyond the Episcopall City Vascon and I paied for my supper two grosh and for my horse-meat three grosh and a halfe The eight day in
and ouer mountaines couered with snow three miles and a halfe to a village not farre from which Charles of Gratz Arch-duke of Austria vncle by the Father side to the Emperour Rodulphus and Father to the Queene of Poland lately maried to King Sigismond was of late buried in a Monastery neere Knettelfeld In this village I paid foureteene creitzers for my supper and twelue for my horse-meat The sixth day in the morning we rode one mile in like way to Iudenburg that is the City of the Iewes and I paid foureteene creitzers for breakefast Then we rode fiue miles in a stony way through high mountaines to Newen-markt and I paid eighteene creitzers for my supper and fifteene for my horse-meat In this Countrey of Styria many men and weomen haue great wens hanging downe their throats by drinking the waters that run through the mines of mettals The seuenth day in the morning we rode two miles to the confines of Styria and entring Carinthia passed by the City Freysacke in which was a faire and strong Castle seated vpon a high mountaine and so wee passed one mile further to a village all our way hauing beene very troublesome by reason of the stony mountaines and narrow passages we hauing a coach in our company Heere I paied twenty foure creitzers for my dinner and fourteene for my horse-meat After dinner wee rode two miles in a plaine compassed with mountaines to Sternfield where I paied ninteene creitzers for my supper and sixteene for my horse-meat The eight day in the morning we rode one mile through a fruitfull plaine of corne to a pleasant City Saint Voyte As in Styria so here in Carinthia the men and women haue great wens vpon their throats with drinking the waters that passe the Mines Heere I paied for my dinner and supper forty eight creitzers and twenty foure for my horse-meat for we staid here to rest our horses and every day we tooke shorter iournies because wee had a Coach in our company which could hardly passe the streights and stony waies of the Alpes and in no other part of the Alpes they vse at any time to passe with Coaches but here very seldome in respect of the ill way The ninth day we rode three miles through a fruitful plaine of corne to Feldkirken where I paid nine creitzers for my dinner and foure for my horse-meat After dinner we rode about two miles by the side of a lake on our left hand towards the South beyond which lake Boleslaus King of Poland lies buried in a Monasbery who hauing killed a Bishop warning him to amend his life did vpon his owne free will doe penance there taking the habit of a Monke and seruing in the same Cloyster as a lay brother to warme stoues but the Polackes say that the body of the dead Bishop did many miracles whereupon with great expence of treasure they of late obtained at Rome to haue him made a Saint And so we came to a village where I paid twenty creitzers for my supper thirteene for my horse-meat and eight for drinke after supper The tenth day in the morning we rode about a mile through high and rocky mountaines to the City Villake by which the Riuer Draw runneth and here I omitted my expences After dinner we rode three miles through high and rocky mountaines and a narrow way and our Coachman by the way shewed vs vppon the left hand towards the South a Castle which of old belonging to the Gouernours of the Prouince was now demolished and because money receiued of the Turkes for treason was hidden here they say that euer since ill spirits walke in that place In the villages of Carinthia being a Prouince of the Dutch Empire the Countrey people speake Wendish or the tongue of the old Vandals which I haue like wise heard to be vsed in villages neere Angsburg and neere Witteberg in Saxony and vpon the shoare of the Balticke sea in Pomern and Meckleburge so as it seemes that barbarous nation though scattered and loosing their name yet still liueth in those places So we came to Altaporta that is High gate where I omitted my expences The eleuenth day in the morning wee rode a mile through high mountaines and rocky and a narrow way to the village Trenise where the Dutchmen shewed a pasport and we all had a like pasport giuen vs from the Emperour his Officers which we were to deliuer to the Venetian Officers at Pontena left either for suspition of infectuous sicknes or any other cause they should not permit vs to enter into Italy In the said village I paid fifteene creitzers for my dinner and fiue for my horse-meat After dinner we rode two miles in a stony way betweene mountaines to Pontena which the Dutch call Pontafell and by the way there was a wall of stone betweene the mountaines and a village called Chiusa where there was a gate shutting vp the high way vpon which was written in Italian La chiusa L'Alpi chiudono i confini della famosa Italia manon ponno mai chiudere l'honer del sagio Contarini The inclosure or shutting vp The Alpes close vp the confines of famous Italy but can neuer inclose the honour of the wise Contarini The Contarini are a family of Gentlemen in Venice Here the Venetian souldiers keeping this passage required a beneuolence of vs which we willingly gaue and out companions paid foure Venetian lires for the foure horses in their Coach but wee that were horsemen paid no tribute Here we had another passe-port to be shewed at Venzona I paid at Pontena thirty sols of Venice for my supper thirty fiue for oates and ten for hey And giue me leaue to remember that I hauing for the cold at Dantzke in the beginning of September put on a woollen wasecoat was forced now at the entring of Italy for great heat in the end of October to put off the same The twelfth day in the morning wee rode foure miles meaning Dutch miles though wee be now entered into Italy because my Dutch companions so reckoned them We now had entred the Italian Prouince Frioly which the Latines call Forum Iulij because the Legions vsed to be sent from hence ouer the Alpes the Venetians call Patria that is country because the Venetians fled from hence into the Lakes of Venice when Attila King of the Huns inuaded Italy by this name acknowledging it to be their country from whence they originally came Aquilegia the seat of the Patriarkes destroyed by Attila was of old famous but the Venetians by the Popes fauour haue drawne the Patriarkes seat to Venice By the way wee passed seuen branches of the Riuer Tagliamonti on horse-backe without boats the streame being so violent by the waters falling from the mountaines that it dazels the eyes if the passenger looke vpon the water for which cause wee passed warily turning our eyes from the water and hauing guidespassing before vs to try and shew vs the Fordes By the way vpon
for my doublet and hose eight lites to my laundresse for making a shirt a lire that is twenty sols for washing it two sols and for washing foure handkerchers one sol And this shall suffice for particular expences The City Paduoa was built by Antenor a Troian and the Heneti driuen out of their Countrey ioined themselues to these Troians These with ioint force droue out the Euganei from the fertile Euganean hils neere Paduoa where Hereules left them and these Heneti gaue to their posterity the name of Venetians to whom the Colonies of Tuscany ioined themselues then the French subdued all this Prouince till at last they subiected themselues to the Romans and were made Citizens of Rome The Roman Empire declining the Visigothes vnder Alaricus droue the chiefe Citizens of Paduoa into the lakes of Venice Then Attila King of the Hunnes spoiled Paduoa and the Longobards burnt it which being rebuilt and flourishing vnder the German Emperors Acciolinus vsurped the gouernement thereof in the yeere 1237. But Pope Alexander the fourth helped by the Venetians restored it to liberty in the yeere 1257. In the faction of the Guelphes Gibellines Paduoa then from that time hath bin subiect to many Princes of the Scaligers Cararrians til about the yeere 1402. the Venetians tooke the City which they held to the yeere 1509. when the French King Lewis made them yeeld to the Emperour but the Venetians after two moneths recouered it and to this day it is subiect to them who send a Magistrate called Podesta euery fifteene moneths to gouerne it Some say Paduoa was first called Antenoria as the Heneti gaue the name of Venice to the Countrey till after Antenors death the Heneti called it Paduoa of a City in their Countrey whence they were driuen Others say it hath the name from a Greeke word vpon the flying of Swannes others say it is so called of the riuer Po called in Latine Padus or of the territory lying beyond the Po the Riuer giuing name to the territory and that to the City Before it was destroied by Attila it was seated on the East-side of the Riuer Medoacus but after it was built on the other side in a fenny soyle where now the market place is but since it hath beene inlarged on both sides the water being without the outmost wals seuen miles compasse and of a triangular forme as it seemed to me The first angle is on the North-side where is the Monastery of the Hermites of Saint Augustine and the stately Pallace Areno in which the French King Henry the third was lodged when hee returned from Poland into France The second angle is towards the East where is the gate at which they take water to passe vpon the Riuer Brenta to Venice The third angle is towards the South where is the monastery Santo called of Saint Anthony of Lisbon and the monastery of Saint Iustina And these angles taken away the old City is round On the West-side vpon the wals is built the old Pallace of the old City Paduoa is seated in a sweet plain hauing no trees neere the City Of old the wall was triple and now it is double The inner wall is some three miles in compasse and is very high hauing a walke vpon it round about with pleasant shade of trees where Gentlemen vse to play at the balloone This wall compassed round with the Brent hath foureteene gates with as many bridges of stone The riuer Brent likewise compasseth the outward wall which is about seuen miles compasse and hath six stately gates but this wall is nothing so strong as the other The Riuer Athesis diuides the territory of Paduoa from that of Uerona and the riuer Po diuides it from that of Ferrara Two riuers of old called Medonci enter the City the greater at this day called Brenta falling from the Alpes with the right hand branch runneth to Paduoa and with the left hand branch to Rosta and diuiding againe into two branches one by the dirch Brentella is carried to Paduoa the greater takes the name Bachilio and neere to the wals of Paduoa receiues the waters of Brentella increased with a branch of Brenta These Riuers enter the City and with diuers channels driue many mils compasse the wals and not onely make the fields fertile but serue to carry all commodities abounding here from hence to Venice and to bring from thence such things as they want and besides doe cleanse all filth of the stables and priuies The aire at Paduoa is very healthfull and the building is with arches of stone hanging ouer the streets vnder which they walke dry in the greatest raine but the streetes are thereby made narrow and in the middest are dirty There be fiue market places in the first the Gentlemen and Students meet and walke in the second herbes are sold in the third corne in the fourth wood and in the fifth straw The aforesaid monastery of Saint Anthony is inhabited by Franciscan Friars and is much fairer then any other religious house the Church whereof was of old dedicated to Iuno and after to the Virgin Mary and at last to Saint Anthony The pauement thereof is of marble and the building very stately hauing in the top seuen globes couered with lead and three high towers The Chappell wherein S t Anthony lies is all of marble round about it the miracles are engrauen which they attribute to this Saint at whose feast day they vse to present for great gifts the hallowed girdles of this S t which they tie about their loyns and attribute strange effects thereunto Here is a statua of marble erected to Peter Bembus and in the large yard there is a horse-mans statua of brasse which the Senate of Venice erected to Gatta Melata In the Church of Franciscan Minorites there is a statua erected to Roctha Benello a Physitian sitting in his chaire In the aforesaid monastery of Saint Iustina the order of Saint Benedict was first established and from thence dispersed into Italy and the Church thereof was of old dedicated to Concord and after being made the Bishops Church was endowed with great rents These Monkes haue a blacke habit and in the Church they shew the reliques of the Martyr Saint Iustina of Saint Prosdosimus a Greeke who is said to haue beene Saint Peters Disciple and to haue conuerted Paduoa and to haue baptised Saint Iustina when shee suffered Martyrdome and likewise of Saint Maximus both Bishops and protecting Saints of the City as also of Saint Luke the Euangelist brought by Vrius a Monke from Constantinople but the Venetians say the reliques of Saint Luke are with them Biondus writeth that here was a Church dedicated to Iupiter and the sepulcher of Titus Liuius In the first court yard of this Monastery the incredible miracles of Saint Benedict are painted In the second I found this Epitaph Adoleseens tametsi proper as Hoc te saxum rogat vt se aspicias Deinde quod scriptum est legas
art When you enter the body of the Church there is the great Altar vnder which lies Saint Marke in a chest of brasse decked with Images of siluer guilded and with plates of gold and Images enamelled and with the Image of Christ sitting vpon a stately throne adorned with pillars of most white Marble and many precious stones and curiously engrauen At the backe of this Altar there is another which they call the Altar of the most holy Sacrament made of the best marble with a little doore of brasse decked with carued Images and with foure pillars of Alablaster transparant as Christall and highly esteemed and vpon the same hang euery day two lampes of Copper but at the times of feasts there hang two of pure siluer Moreouer the Organs are said to be the worke of a most skilfull Artificer In the higher gallery compassing the Church is the image of Pope Pelagius vnder which is a place where the holy relikes are kept which Pope Clement the eight gaue to Iohn Delphin Knight one of the Procurators of Saint Marke and Ambassadour at Rome for Venice namely a peece of a bone of Phillip the Apostle a peece of the cheeke-bone and foure teeth of the Martyr Saint Biagius peeces of bones of Saint Bartholmew and Saint Thomas forsooth of Canterbury and of the Apostles Saint Matthew and Saint Marke whose body they say is laid in the foresaid chest and part of the haire of the blessed Virgin and a peece of a finger of the Euangelist Luke and a peece of a ribbe of Saint Peter with many like which they shew to the people to be adored certaine daies in the yeere Aboue the Altar of Saint Clement these verses are written which shew how they worshipped Images in a more modest though superstitious age Nam Deus est quod I mago docet sed non Deus ipse Hane vide as sed mente colas quod cernis in ipsa That which the Image shewes is God it selfe is none See this but God heere seene in mind adore alone Likewise these verses of the same Author be in another place Effigiem Christi qui transis pronus horona Non tamen effigiem sed quod designat adora Esse deum ratione caret cui contulit esse Materiale lapis sicut manus effigiale Nec Deus est naec homo praesens quam cernis Imago Sed Deus est homo quem sacra signat Imago As thou Christs Image passest fall the same before Yet what this Image signifies not it adore No reason that it should be God whose essence stands Materiall of stone formall of workemens hands This Image which thou seest is neither God nor Man But whom it represents he is both God and Man At the entry of the Chancell is the throne of the Dukes made of walnut-tree all carued aboue the head and when the Dukes sit there it was wont to be couered with carnation satten but now it is couered with cloth of gold giuen by the King of Persia. There be two stately pulpits of marble with Histories carued in brasse where they sing the Epistles and Gospels On the left hand by the Altar of Saint Iames is a place where if a man may beleeue it the body of Saint Marke by a creuice suddenly breaking through the marble stone appeared in the yeere 1094. to certaine Priests who had fasted and praied to find the same the memory of the place where it was laied at the building of the Church about 829. being vtterly lost I beleeue that the memory thereof was lost about the yeere 829. when superstition was not yet ripe but that it was found in the yeere 1094. that age being infected with grosse superstition let him that list beleeue They themselues seeme to distrust this miracle while they confesse that the same body was most secretly laid vnder the great Altar and neuer since shewed to any man but once or twice and that after a suspicious manner To the foresaid pulpits another is opposite where the Musitians sing at solemne Feasts and from whence the Dukes newly created are shewed to the people and likewise the holy relikes as they tearme them are shewed twice in the yeere The wals in the Church are so couered with the best marbles as the lime and bricke cannot be seene and these peeces of marble with their spots and brightnes are very beautifull whereof two are held for admirable Monuments which are so ioined as they liuely represent the Image of a man Here Marino Morosini first of all the Dukes hung his Armes vppon the wals whom the other Dukes after him in number forty three haue followed and there hung vp their Armes In the middest of the Church hangs a banner giuen by the Citizens of Verona in token of subiection and two others for the same purpose giuen by the Citizens of Crema and Cremona The Marble pillars setin Caues vnder the Church beare vp the pauement which is made of peeces of the best marble carued and wrought with little stones of checker worke very curiously especially vnder the middle globe of the roofe and neere the great doore And among the rare stones opposite to the singers pulpit they shew one of such naturall spots as it is esteemed a Iewell which by change of colour they say doth shew the change of weather Moreouer they shew certaine Images carued by the direction of the Abbot Iohn Ioachim of old time whereof many shew future euents as that of two cockes carrying a wolfe vpon their backe which they vnderstand to be Lewis the twelfth and Charles the eight French Kings casting Lodouico Sfortia out of his Dukedome and in like sort to omit many other more hidden that of the Lyons fat in the waters and leane vpon land which they vnderstand to be the power of Venice by sea and the weakenes by land Besides they say the same Abbot caused the Images of Saint Dominicke and Saint Francis to be drawne vpon the doore of the Sanctuary long before they liued and the title of Saint is added to each of them but the name is not set vpon the pictures yet they both are painted in the habit of their order They shew two like pictures drawne by direction of the said Abbot whereof they vnderstand one to be the last Pope vnder whom shall be one shepheard and one fould but they say it is vnknowne what the other signifies Before the new Chappell of the blessed Virgin there be two little chambers whereof one is called the Sanctuary in which their holy relikes are kept the other is called the Iewell house because the treasure of Saint Marke so they appropriate all publike things to Saint Marke is there kept and it is vulgarly called Luogo aelle groie that is the place of the Iewels The Procurators of Saint Marke keepe this treasure and make no difficulty to shew it to strangers of the better sort In this place I saw the Ducall Cap vulgarly ill corne or
length thereof euen from Genoa to the furthest limits of the Kingdome of Naples bordering vpon he sea towards the East On the same South-side are the schooles of the Vniuersity and the monastery of Saint Michaell and the rich stately monastery of Saint Dominicke in which is the sepulcher of the said Saint curiously engrauen and of white marble and vnder a rich skreene lies the body which they superstitiously worship and they shew the place where the Saint gaue vp his last breath Their refectory or place where the Monkes eat is faire and large and the Cellars of wine and their store thereof are so great as would better become the Temple of Bacchus then a Cloyster of Monkes It hath two foure-square Court yards with arched Cloysters to walke vnder and they be pleasantly planted round about with Cedars of which they especially esteeme one planted by the hands of that Saint who likewise with his owne hand did beautifie a well of water no lesse esteemed by them Their publike Library is much esteemed for many bookes of written hand wherein they brag to haue a Bible written by the hand of Esdras The building of this monastery is very stately and it hath large galleries as well below vnder the Arches as round about in the vpperroofe Here is a monument of Hans that is Iohn sonne to the Emperour Fredericke the second they haue a place giuen by priuiledge to the Dutch for buriall The building of the City is anticke and many houses seeme to haue beene built by the Lombards The foundations of the houses are of free stone and the rest for the most part of bricke built with arched Cloysters towards the street vnder which they walke dry in the greatest raine The Pallaces of Gentlemen are built towards the street stately on the inside but with little shew on the outside and they all seeme to haue beene built of old The windowes are not glased which the Venetians brag to be proper to their City as a thing to be wondered at but they are couered with paper whereof part is oyled ouer Towards the West side of the City is a large market place two forked in which is a faire conduit of water with the Images of Neptune and diuers Goddesses powring water out of their mouthes and breasts and all made of mettall In this market place is the Senate-house vulgarly called Il palazo della signoria on the one side whereof are the Courts of iudgement on the other the lodgings of the Gouernour At the very entry is a statua of brasse erected to Pope Gregory the thirteenth a Citizen of Bologna which appeares by an inscription in the Cathedrall Church and within the Pallace is a statua of white stone erected to Pope Paul the third and another statua of a Gyant The staires of the Pallace are made winding and rising by little and little giue so easie an ascent as a horse may goe vp without difficulty the like staites be at Ferrara in the Dukes Pallace and at Venice in the steeple of Saint Marke and at Torge a City of Germany Within the Pallace is the statua of Iulius the second Bishop or rather the God Mars of Rome engrauen to his shoulders with aleane and longface Vpon the doore of the Pallace is written in golden letters that the Emperour Charles the fifth held his Court there when the Pope put the imperiall Crowne vpon his head in the Church of Saint Petronius which Church is of the old Lombard building and this Saint is the protecting Saint of the City Neere the stately Cathedrall Church of Saint Peter is a house called the mountame of piety where poore men may borrow money freely bringing pawnes to auoid the oppression of the lewes vsury Among the Lombard buildings there is an old Tower called d' Asinelli built of bricke with foure hundred seuenty two staires which they esteeme one of the highest in Europe From this Tower without the gates all the fields are full of Pallaces and Houses At the gate of Saint Francis is a pinacle with this inscription The Sepuicher of Accursius who wrote the glosse vpon the Law Sonne to Francis H us In the territory of this City is a medicinall water found in the yeere 1375. very famous throughout all Italy of which is prouerbially said Chibene l' Acqua della Porretta O che lo spezza o che lo netta that is He that drinkes the water of Porretta either it bursts him or els it cleanseth him The strangers students here call the stately Pallace of Cardinall Caup the sinnes of the Dutch as built by the Fines imposed on them We staid in this City two daies and being three consorts hired a chamber each man for foure bolinei the day the Hostesse giuing vs linnen and dressing our meat and we paid for an Eele by the pound fiue bolinei for they sell fresh water fish by the pound for a pike the pound foure bolinei for three apples two quatrines for a pound of raisons foure bolinei for a pound of small nuts foure bolinei for an ingestar of wine a measure somewhat bigger then the English pint foure bolinei for a wax candle six bolinei It was now the time of Lent and so we were forced to eat onely fish as the Italians did In the territory of Bologna there is a place almost an Iland called Forcelli which was an Iland of old and Historians witnesse that the Triumuiri Augustus Antonius and Lepidus here diuided the world betweene them From Bologna the right way for Rome is directly to Florence which way I neuer passed disposing as I thought my iourney more commodiously yet for the direction of other passengers it will not be amisse to set downe the way From Bologna to Pianore are eight miles to Lograno sixe to Scaricalasino fiue to Caurez three to Fiorenzuola twelue to Scarperia ten to the bridge Saint Piero two and to Fiorenza or Florente two miles At Bologna we chanced to light vpon post horses being to returne twenty miles to Imola and each of vs paid fiue poli for his horse By the way towards the South were pleasant hils towards the foot of the Apennine mountaines On the left hand towards the North were fields manured after the Lombard fashion before described and we passed by the Castle Saint Petro the Italians call the walled Townes which haue no Bishops seat by the name of Castles When we entered the gates of Imola according to the custome we deliuered our swords to a boy who was to carry them to our Host that he might keepe them till we went out of the Towne and here each of vs paied two reali for our supper and halfe a reale for our bed The next morning we rode ten miles to the City Faenza through a sandy way and a barren soyle yeelding some few vines growing vpon trees and each man paid for his horse eight poli From hence our right way to Ancona had beene to Forli Cesena and
these high Mountaines among which the riuer hath his spring But from Rome it runs in a narrow bed 2 miles to Ostia with a slow course and there endeth in Lakes the mouth of the hauen being so stopped as the least Barks cannot passe to from the sea Here beyond our expectatiō our Veturine alleaged that he had agreed with vs to pay for our diet not for our passages of Riuers by which captious trick each of vs was forced to pay two Giulij for our passage ouer the Riuer Of the foresaid twelue miles to the little towne where of I spake two miles remained which we rode and there lodged that might The fifth day in the morning wee rode seuenteene miles to Castel ' nuouo through woody Mountaines and Valies of corne in a way very dirty and slippery and here our Veturine tied to pay for our diet put a new tricke vpon vs saying that he would not dine but goe on to Rome yet if wee pleased to dine hee would out of his duty stay for vs otherwise being ready to finish the rest of his iourney We smiled at the knaues craft and each of vs paied two poli and a halfe for our dinners After dinner we rode thirteene miles to Rome of old the Head-Citie of the World through winding hills and pastures and when we came to the first Gate we did meete many English men on horse-back without bootes being all Priests going to Madonna di Loreto I was much afraid lest some of them being Schollers of Cambridge should know me brought vp in the same Vniuersitie neither was the hearing of the English tongue or the sight of English men euer before so vnpleasing to me From this first Gate we rode in the way of Flaminius by the winding banck of Tyber and many caues vnder mountaines and hills to the bridge called Ponte-Mole which vniteth the said way of Flaminius lying on both sides the Riuer and there wee passed to the East-side of the said Riuer Tyber and passing on the same way of Flaminius we entered the Citie by a large Gate vulgarly called Porta del Popolo and by a Market place vulgarly called Fore del Popolo in which Market-place is the Church of S. Mary del Popolo CHAP. II. Of my iourney to Naples and my returne to Rome and of the description of both Cities Of my iourney cursory to Sienna Fiorenza Pistoia Lucca and Pisa and the description of the three last Cities DEferring the view of Rome till my returne I thought best to passe on presently to Naples lest if I had staid longer I might perhaps haue beene betraied into the hands of the Spaniards when I should come thither for that Kingdome is subiect to the Spaniards with whom the English then had warre besides that in like cases delay brecds danger into which if I should haue fallen I hoped to escape with more ease and contentment when I had beene at the furthest of my iourney Therefore according to the fashion I agreed with a Vetturine at Rome for forty foure Giulij to giue me a horse to Naples and to pay for my diet and horsemeat I say it is the fashion especially in waies of danger and trouble to get meat that passengers should agree with their Vetturine for their diet which if they doe not they shall be subiect to the fraud of Hosts in such a iourney and hardly get so good meat as they who daily passing are well acquainted in all places And in this tumultuary iourney to Naples it is most of all necessary for strangers thus to agree with their Vetturine since the Hosts are great extorters from all men and especially from strangers and it would be difficult for strangers not knowing the fashion of that hasty iourney and of the Country to prouide for themselues When we went out of Rome our consorts suddenly in a broad street lighted from their horses and gaue them to the Vetturines to hold and so went themselues to the Holy staires vulgarly called Le scale sante that they might there pray for a happy iourney at which time my selfe and my consorts slipped into the next Church and going in at one doore and out at the other escaped the worshipping of those holy staires and at fit time came to take our horses with the rest They say that these staires were the same which Christ ascended in Pilates house at Ierusalem and that they were from thence brought to Rome and indeed at Ierusalem the place of them lies void so as I would in this mnch rather beleeue the Romans then in the transportation of the Chamber at Lareto which they would haue done by the Angels and that often and at vnseasonable times whereas in so many voyages into Palestine it was not difficult to bring these staires from thence Yet they being of marble and very rich I would faine know how such a monument could be preserued when Ierusalem was destroied And if they say they belonged to that house of Pilate which they shew at this day I dare be bold to affirme that the magnificence of these staires is nothing answerable to the poore building of that house The twelfth of March we rode twelue miles to Marino a Castle belonging to the Roman Family of Colonna and we passed through a fruitfull plaine of corne hauing on our right hand towards the South the ruines of old Rome and the Castle Tusculo where Cicero wrote his Tuseulane questions not farre from Palestrina of old called Preneste where Marius besieged by Scylla killed himself we might often see the Tyrrhene sea and hauing vpon our left hand towards the North an anticke conduit made of bricke lying all the length of the way from Rome to the Easterne mountaines in which Marino is seated and from whence the water was so farre brought to Rome and vpon the same side hauing a new conduit built by Pope Sixtus the fifth when the pipes of the other were broken but the same is much lower and lesse magnificent then the other and vpon this hand we had mountaines not farre distant Marino was of old called Marianavilla and from this Castle the mountaines which by the way we had on our left hand toward the North crosse ouer to the Tyrrhene sea towards the South shutting vp the large plaine from Rome hither And these mountaines planted with vines and hauing a sweet prospect into the same plaine are very pleasant Whereupon there be very many Pallaces of Roman Senators built vpon these mountaines which lying high of the fresh aire vulgarly this place is called La Frescada Among these mountaines in the Village Tiuoli the deceased Cardinall Hipolito of Este built a Pallace and a wonderfull garden which being ten mile distant from the City of Rome the passengers for the most part hauing scene Rome did in the Cardinals time and yet many times doe passe that way For it resembles a terrestriall Paradice by reason of the fountaines statuaes caues groues fishponds cages
at our comming backe these Souldiers demaunded of the passengers a gift in curtesie and when some refused it they stopped their passage and onely troubled them in the searching of their carriage vnder pretence that they might carry some prohibited things Those Souldiers did accompany vs to the Citie Fondi I call the same and some other places by the name of Citie because they were Cities of old though now they be onely Villages and haue no other beautie but the ruines of age This old Citie was sacked in the yeere 1534 by Barbarossa a Turkish Pirate It is seated in a Plaine hauing onely a meadow and a field ouerflowed betweene it and the sea and the houses are built of Flints and such litle stones but it had most pleasant Orchards of Citrons Oranges and Lemons The Orange trees at one time haue ripe and greene fruites and buds and are greene in winter giuing at that dead time a pleasant remembrance of Sommer By our Veturines sparing our diet was daily very short and at Terracina we could not so much as get wine and here our supper was so short as we iudged our Vetturines good Phisitians who perswade light suppers The wines of Fondi and Cecubo for the mount Cecubo is not farre distant are much celebrated by the Roman Poets namely by Horace The fourth day in the morning we rode ten miles to Mola vulgarly called Nola vpon a paued Causey betweene stony Mountaines being part of the way of Appius and through great woods of Oliue trees hauing by the way many Orchards of Oranges and like fruites and entering neere Mola into a more open aire Not onely this Village but all this sea coast is called Mola of the Miles as I thinke driuen by waters falling from the Mountaines and it is numbred among the most pleasant places of Italy Mola is built vpon the ruines of old Formia which are to be seene in the fields round about it Among these ruines is the house of Cicero who speakes of his Village Formia where Scipio and Lelius came to recreate themselues and there is also the sepulcher of Cicero so as it seemes he was killed by Anthony in this Territory After dinner we rode eight miles through a wilde field with low shrubs vpon a paued way till wee came to the Riuer Garigliano whose narrow and deepe streame we passed by boat and staied long about the putting ouer of our horses our company being great and each horseman paied fiue baocci for passage Neere this Riuer wee did see the ruines of a most faire Theater built of bricke and flint and of another old and round Theater and of a Conduit built of brick vpon a 140 arches Not farre hence among huge and snowy Mountaines is the Citie Traeto which hath the title of a Dukedome and was of old called Minturne After we had passed the Riuer we rode seuen miles to Sesso and three miles to a Country house through a fruitful Plaine of corne hauing the Tirrhene sea so neare vs as we might see it three or foure times And because the other Carrier comming from Naples to Rome lodged with his consorts a mile before vs in the Village Castellano we were forced to lodge in this Country house The fifth day in the morning at the beginning of our iourney we met the said Carrier with his consorts and we rode eight miles to the Village Francolisse in a most pleasant way betweene Hills of black clay like stone but a most fruitfull Countrey This Village lay on the left hand of our way towards the land among very pleasant Hills and the place is not farre distant where Hanibal brought into straights by Fabius did escape by a stratagem tying fire vpon the hornes of Oxen. After we rode 8 miles to the most pleasant City Capua through a most sweet Plaine called Laborina because it is laborious to the tiller but it is wonderfull fruitfull and aboundeth with Oliue trees and vines planted vpon Elmes Here we dined not according to our couenant at our Vetturines charge but at our owne cost and each man had such meate as he chose and that as I thinke because the passengers being now out of danger and in a place abounding with all dainties refused to be dieted at their Veturines pleasure and chose rather to feast themselues as they list And in deede we had excellent cheare delicate wine most white pure bread and among other dainties I remember wee had blacke Oliues which I had neuer seene before and they were of a most pleasant taste Here each of vs paid two Giulij and a halfe for our dinner This City is newly built but if you goe out of the Gates to Saint Maries Church towards Naples vpon the South-West side of the Towne there you shall see a Colossus and a Caue and many Monuments of old Capua among the Orchards the delicacies of which Citie were of old so famous as we reade that the Army of Hanibal grew effeminate thereby This new Citie hath a Castle vpon the North-East side built vpon the walles wherein is a Garrison of souldiers which keepeth the Citie in obedience and the Riuer Vulturnus runnes vpon the same side of the Citie which they passe with a bridge of stone neere which there is an inscription that Phillip King of Spaine repaired the way and built the bridge The Citie is of a little compasse but strong and it hath a faire Senate-House and a faire Church called l' Annonciata with a faire Altar After dinner wee had no guard neither were tied to accompany the Carrier but it was free for euery man to take his way and company or to ride alone at his pleasure So from Capua we rode eight miles to Anuersa a new Citie otherwise called Aduersa and of old called Attella whence were the old satyricall Comedies which were full of baudery and were called Attellane And betweene this City and the Mountaine Vesuuius now called Somma out of the way towards the land and neere the Castle Airola is the Valley Caudine where Hanibal put the Romans drawne into straites disgracefully to passe vnder a paire of gallowes which were called the Caudine gallows wel knowne to all that haue read Liuy The same afternoone we rode further eight miles to Naples And all this way from Capua to Naples is a most fruitfull plaine of corne and vines growing high vpon Elme trees according to the Tillage of Lombardy one and the same field yeelding corne and wine and wood to burne but the other wines of this Country growing vpon hills and mountaines and all the other fruites cannot be worthily praised We entered Naples on the East side by the Gate of Capua where the Vice-Ròies vse to enter in pompe And this Gate is stately built and vpon this side the suburbes are long and faire and the streete of Capua within the wals is no lesse faire in which is the prison and because we were attired like Frenchmen the prisoners
Gate Saint Spirito and entered the second part of Rome Trasteuire by the Gate XVI Settimtana where vnder the Church of Saint Peter Montorio is the 〈◊〉 of Nero that is a place to represent Nauall fights and neere it is the like of Iulius Caesar. From this Church to the Church Saint Honorio is a Plaine wherein was the large and long Circus or Theater of Iulius Caesar. In this part of the Citie the Church of Saint Cecilia giues the title of a Cardinall and so doth the Church of Saint Grisogona The said Church of Saint Mary in this part of the City is the same which the old Romans called Taberna Meritoria where they shew a Fountaine whence they say that oyle did flow abundantly and runne towards Tiber the same night when Christ was borne and this Church also giues the title of a Cardinall and the old Romans called it Taberna Meritoria of the souldiers nourished there after they were past seruice by age or wounds This Church of Saint Peter is seated vpon the Mount Ianiculus in which there is a stately Monument erected by Pope Iulius the third to his vncle the Cardinall dt Monte. The Church of Saint Pancratius hath many stones of porphry and giues the title of a Cardinall and the Friars of Saint Ambrose dwell in this Monastery The Church Saint Honorio is a Monastery and giues the title of a Cardinall Neere the gate called Ripa was of old the Romans Armory of great circuit lying vpon the Tyber the vast ruines whereof yet remaine and the people of Rome seruing for more then two hundred yeeres in the warres without any pay was wont here to take Armes at their going forth and here to lay them vp at their returne And neere this place he the meadowes giuen by the people of Rome to Mucius Scaeuola for his valiant behauiour with King Porsena Hence turning to the left hand we came to the III Iland of Tyber in which the Church of S. Bartholmew of old consecrated to AEsculapius is adorned with 4 stately pillars of porphry it giues the title to a Cardinall At the foot of the bridge XXXIX S. Maria as you come out of the Iland and enter into Rome is the ruined house of Pontius Pilate and opposite to that is the most ancient Church consecrated to the Moone and vpon the other side another to the Sunne Here also is the Theater of Marcellus and the porch of Mercury Not farre thence is a marble head called Bocca della verita that is the mouth of truth of a woman as I remember falsifying her oath and bewraied thereby but others say it is the Idoll of Rbea Here also is the Church of Saint Mary called the Greeke Schoole in which Saint Augustine is said to haue taught but it is shut vp At the foot of Mount Auentine where the Iewes vse to fish if you looke backe you shall see the ruines of the old bridge Sublicius XLI Thence going to the gate of Saint Paul among vines you shall see the ruines of one hundred and forty garners for corne built of old by the Romans In the pleasant meadow wherein the XXXIIII mount Testaceus lies the Romans were wont of old to keepe their Olimpike games The sepulcher of 6 Caius Cestius is most ancient rising in a pyramis and the inscription shewes it was built in three hundred and thirty daies which the common sort falsly thinkes to be the Monument of Romulus This monument of stone is compassed with wals and it hath an inscription in great letters but raced out Some also thinke that it is the monument of Publius Sestius From the gate of Saint Paul we returned into the City and vnder the Church of Saint Gregory where Laundresses continually wash they say that of old the 7 Circus Maximut or greatest Theater did lie betweene the Mount Palatine and the Mount Auentine being more then a quarter of a mile long and halfe a quarter broad which was built by Tarquinius Priscus for the hunting of Buls and running of Horses and after was inlarged by Iulius Caesar and other Emperours so as it receiued 260 thousand beholders being adorned with pillars and commodious seates and at this day the place is called Cerchi Neere this place were of late three rowes of pillars one aboue the other and this monument is called Il Setti zonio di Senero of seuen souldiers engraued thereupon and is thought to be the sepulcher of Septismius Seuerus but the Pope Sixtus the fifth pulled it downe Neere this place vppon XXIIII Mount Auentine lie the Bathes halfe ruined of Antonius Caracalla built of bricke the large chambers whereof almost innumerable are of exceeding height hauing many stones and pillars of marble whereby it appeares to haue beene a most stately work The 8 church of S. Stephano Orotando seated in mount Celius giues the title of a Cardinall and is possessed by Fryars of Hungary and it was a Heathen Church of Faunus There lie old and high wals said to haue beene part of the conduit bringing water to the Capitoll I haue before spoken of the Church of A Saint Iohn Lateran being one of the seuen Churches and of Constantines Font therein and of the Chappel called Holy of Holies and of the holy staires I wil adde that here is an Obeliske called la Guglia of old consecrated to the Sunne and brought out of AEgypt which Iulius Caesar or Augustus did direct in the Circus Maximus but Pope Sixtus the fifth brought it hither in the fourth yeere of his Popedome and the yeere of our Lord 1588. and consecrating it to the Crosse set a guilded crosse vpon the top of it This Obeliske if it were of one stone were to be preferred to that of Saint Peter neere the Popes Pallace for otherwise it is higher and more curiously carued I haue spoken before of the Church D S. Croce in Gicrusalem being one of the seuen Churches seated neere the gate Maggiore At the gate of this Church they shew a place where the whores keepe a feast vpon the twenty of August and there of old was the Temple of Venus The Theater of bricke which is in this Church they say was built by Statilius Tamrus Hence returning into the City we passed by a place where of old was a monument called Trofei di Marie erected to Caius Marius triumphing vpon Iugurtha and the Cymbri and they say that the ruines thereof were admirable but now it is all defaced Neere the staires of the Capitoll they shew a ruinous heape which some say was this monument of Marius Passing towards the Capitoll we did see a Triumphall Arch erected to Galienus which of the Church adioining is called the Arch of Saint Vito and it is little perished with age Concerning the Churches lying from the Capitoll to the south parts of Rome The Church of Saint Anastatia that of Saint Mary In portico of old dedicated by the Heathens to Pudicitia that of Saint Iohn that of Saint
Charles the fifth supped when hee came to Florence And from this gallery to the second are fifty nine staires and from thence to the third sixty eight staires where at the very top is a wonderfull hollow Globe of Brasse wherein 30 men may stand together and vpright for it is higher then any man and is vulgarly called la Cupula Another most ancient Church lieth close to this which was of old dedicated to Mars and now is dedicated to S. Iohn Baptist and it is of around forme and hath a most stately Font with the dores of mixt mettall much richer then Brasse and cutiously carued the like whereof they say the World yeeldeth not And therein are to be seene the monument of Pope Iohn the twenty three deposed at the Councell of Constantia who before his Popedome was named Balthassar Cossa the Statua of the same Pope of mixt mettall and diuers other statuaes of the same mettall shining like gold To conclude in this little but most faire Church are kept the monuments of the Pisanes subdued namely a Pillar a Basket and a chaine and other notable things Not farre thence is the faire Church called S. Maria Nouella vpon the wall whereof this verse is written Sacrum pingue dabo non macrum sacrificabo I will giue Fatlings not leane Sacrifice Which verse they obserue may by beginning with the words backward bee a true verse and of direct contrary sense in this manner Sacrificabo macrum non dabo pingue Sacrum Sacrifice leane not Fatlings giue will I. But the Monkes will not haue it vnderstood in the last sense vnprofitable to their profession but rather in the first as if men were bound now to giue the Clergy their best goods as they were of old to giue the fattest sacrifice to God In the Church called L'Annonciata of the Angels Annuntiation to the Virgin the wals are round about hung with Images of men and of mens feet and Armes some of wood some of mettals which were offered to our Lady vpon vow by those that had recouered health of body or had beene cured of diseases in those parts And as it cannot be expressed how much the Italians do attribute to the virgin so there is more concourse to this Church then to any other In the Church of Saint Laurence they keepe many relikes with vncredible reuerence and shew them to the people to be adored In a Chappell of this Church are many faire statuaes of Marble and one most faire erected to Duke Alexander killed by treason by which he is made sitting with a sad countenance his right hand laid to his mouth and his left hand resting vpon his knee And there be two statuaes of Giuliano Angelo and Michaele Angelo two famous Painters and Engrauers In another Chappell are low monuments erected to Duke Cosmo of Medici and to Laurence his sonne who built this Church and to the Dutchesse of Cosmo and to Duke Francis and to his lawfull sonne deceased for he had a base sonne yet liuing after his brother Ferdinando had succeeded him and also to Paulus Iouius the Historian dying in the yeere 1574. as I remember The Monument of Cosmo had this inscription in Latin By publike consent to the Father of his Countrey In a stately Chappell of this Church is the Library of Pope Clement the seuenth de Medici ful of rare greeke and latin bookes but especially they shew the Commentaries of Iulius Caesar a written bible Maps of Ptolomy drawne with lines of gold the Hierogliphica an old manner of writing of the AEgyptians and the Pandects in written hand brought from Pisa subdued I dare not say that this is the same Library which was gathered by Lorenzo of Medici in the yeere 1484. but I am most sure that I did see these bookes in one of them In this Church the foresaid Chappell was also a monument erected to Duke Ferdinando then liuing Neer that is a garden in which we did see two Ostrages flax of India making most strong threed and the hearbe that yeeldeth this flax much like an Artichoke but farre greater In the monastery of Saint Marke which Duke Cosmo built for Dominican Friars is a Chappell proper to the Family Saluiati for buriall which is very rich with diuers coloured marbles images of brasse and pictures especially one rare picture of a red vale which seemed two fingers distant from the wall And in this monastery is another Library of rare Bookes The Hospitall of S. Maria Noua is said to passe all others in Italy for all necessaries to cure and nourish the sicke and for orderly attendance whereto that purpose are ninety six beds in one roome Not farre thence are two stables of the Dukes and in both of them were some thirty two horses of price The Duke kept fierce wilde beasts in a little round house namely fiue Lyons fiue Wolues three Eagles three Tygers of black and gray colour not vnlike Cats but much greater one wilde Cat like a Tyger Beares Leopards spotted with white black and red and vsed sometimes for hunting an Indian Mouse with a head like our Mise but a long hairie taile so fierce and big that it would easily kill one of our Cats and wilde Boares And the Keeper told vs that the Duke and Dutchesse with many Gentlemen came lately to behold them sitting in a gallery built round about the yard at which time certaine men were put into little frames of wood running vpon wheeles to prouoke these beasts to anger which being let loose in the Court-yard walked without offending one the other and to this ende these men had many fire-workes from which the most fierce of them did runne away onely the wilde Boare rushed vpon one of these frames wheeling towards him and not only turned it ouer but rent out a board with his Tuske so as all the company were affraid left the man who lay therein should perish Vpon the wals of the Church S. Croce is a monument of Arno ouerflowiug with this in scription in the Italian tongue In the yeere 1333. the water of Arno ouerflowed to this height and in the yeere 1557. to this yet higher In this Church is the sepulcher of Michael Angelo Bonoritio a most famous Engrauer Painter and Bullder whose bones were brought from Rome at the instance of Duke Cosmo in the yeere 1570 and laid here It is most certaine that he was most skilfull in those Arts and of him the Italians greatly boast and with all tell much of his fantasticke humours namely that when he painted the Popes Chappell whereof I spake in discribing the Popes Pallace that he first obtained the Popes promise that no man should come in till the worke were finished and vnderstanding that the Pope had broken this promise comming in himselfe with some Cardinals at the backe doore of the vestery that he being then to paint the last Iudgement did so liuely figure the Pope and the Cardinall that tempted him amongst the Diuels as
into Sweitzerland The lower part of which Citie vulgarly la bas rue is seated in a plaine and the rest vpon a Hill The buildings are faire and of free-stone This Citie being consederate with some of the Sweitzer Cantones and more strictly with Berna hath defended the freedome of the Citizens and the profession of Reformed Religion for many yeeres with great courage and pietie and through many miseries and practises to subduethem against the pretended rightes of the Bishop and the Duke of Sauoyes ambition and hatred he beares to the Reformed Religion The lower part thereof on the North side lies close to the South side of the Lake where is a little hauen for Gallies which they haue built to keepe free the passage of the Lake And on the same side is a strong Fort and there the Riuer Rhodanus comming out of the Lake enters the Citie and runnes through the lower part thereof hauing two bridges for passage The Duke of Sauoy who hath long watched to surprize this Citie possesseth the East side of the Lake but the Citie is carefull not to suffer him to build any Gallies thereupon and vpon the least rumour of building them armeth their Gallies to burne the same Therefore the way into Sauoy lying vpon the East South East side of the Citie in a Plaine betweene Hilles and Mountaines the Citie hath built a Fort of little circuit but great strength with fortifications of earth some Musket shot without the walles vpon that way and therein continually keepes a Garrison Not farre thence the Riuer Arba flowing from the Easterne Mountaines doth beyond the Citie fall into Rhodanus At the South Gate is a publike Church-yard for buriall and an Hospitall or Pest house which are both without the walles On the same side within the walles is a pleasant walke vpon Hilles where of old a pillar was erected with this inscription To the Emperour Caesar M. Aurelius Antoninus Pius by Foelix Aug. greatest Bishop with Tribunall power Consull c. On the West side of the Citie without the walles little Mountaines lying not farre distant might seeme dangerous for the encamping of enemies saue that on the one side they are compassed with the Territorie of Berne confederate with the Citie and on the other side with the Riuer Rhodanus so as the enemies passage to them is very difficult This Citie was of old repaired by the Emperour Aurelius and Iulius Caesar makes mention of this Citie in his first booke of the Gaules warre so as the antiquitie thereof cannot be doubted Here I had great contentment to speake and conuerse with the reuerent Father Theodore Beza who was of stature something tall and corpulent or big boned and had a long thicke beard as white as snow He had a graue Senatours countenance and was broad faced but not fat and in generall by his comely person sweete affabilitie and grauitie he would haue extorted reuerence from those that least loued him I walked with him to the Church and giuing attention to his speech it happened that in the Church porch I touched the poore mans box with my fingers and this reuerend man soone perceiued my errour who hauing vsed in Italy to dip my fingers towards the holy water according to the manner of the Papists lest the omitting of so small a matter generally vsed might make me suspected of my Religion and bring me into dangers of greater consequence did now in like sort touch this poore mans box mistaking it for the Font of holy water I say hee did soone perceiue my errour and taking me by the hand aduised me hereafter to eschew these ill customes which were so hardly forgotten When I had taken counsell with my friends if it were safe for mee to goe the right way from Geneua to Paris they being of great experience disswaded me from that iourney which could not but be dangerous the Peace being scarsely concluded and the Countrey being full of bands of Souldiers returning to their owne home which councell after I found good by Experience the mother of fooles And when they perceiued that I was obstinately purposed to passe through France into England they aduised mee rather to passe into France by the Dukedome of Loraine which for the time was more free from the tumults of warre whose councell I thought good to follow so as I was now to returne to Strassburg in Germany almost the same way I came Thus after noone I left Geneua and rode that day foure miles to Morgen The second day in the morning I rode in two houres space to Losanna and in fiue houres space to Milden where I payed eight batzen for my dinner and horse-meate After dinner in foure howers space I rode to Bitterline and payed fourteene batzen for my supper and horse-meate The third day in the morning I rode one mile as they call it in foure houres space to Morton in three howers space to Berne one of the Sweitzers Cantons through sandy fieldes of Corne and many Woods At Geneua many French Gentlemen and Students comming thither for the libertie of their religion did speake pure French and from that Citie all the people spake a barbarous French till I came neere Berne where they first began to speake the Sweitzers language Being to describe Berne giue me leaue first for Trauellers sake to mention what I haue read in some Authors that in the Territorie of Lucerna which I neuer viewed and who are earnest Papists and so may iustly bee suspected in like reports there is a wonderfull Lake vpon the banke whereof they say Pilate doth once in a yeere walke anired in Iudges robes and that whosoeuer then sees him doth die the same yeere The most faire Citie Berne hath the name of Beares in the Dutch tongue because Berthold Duke of Zeringen being to build the Citie and going fourth to hunt thought good to giue it the name of the first beast he should meete and kill And there being a Wood of Oakes in the very place where the Citie was to be built the workemen cutting the same for the building of the Citie did sing this Rime in Dutch Holtz lass dich hawen gern Die stat muss heissen Bern. Wood let vs willingly cut thee this Citie must Bern named be They write that the ground whereupon the Citie is built was of old called the Sacke and that the Citie thereupon was built in forme of a sacke This most faire City is not of any great antiquitie for Berthold the founder thereof died in the yeere 1175. It is built vpon a little Mountaine yet seemes to be seated in a Valley because it is compassed with greater Mountaines The little Mountaine whereupon it is seated is narrow and the full bredth thereof is within the walles neither is it much longer then the Citie lying in length from the West to the East in which length it hath three faire and broad streetes and is fortified round about with the Valleys of this
to him if he should himselfe assault a poore fellow and a stranger did let me passe but before I came to the bottome of the hill I might see him send two horsemen after me who wheeling about the mountaines that I might not know they were of his company suddenly rushed vpon me and with fierce countenance threatning death presented their Carbines to my brest I hauing no abilitie to defend mee thought good not to make any the least shew of resistance so they tooke my sword from my guide and were content onely to rob me of my mony I formerly said that I could not finde at Venice any meanes to exchange my money to Paris the long Ciuill warre hauing barred the Parisians from any traffique in forraine parts and that I was forced to exchange my money to Geneus This money there receiued I had quilted within my doublet and when I resolued to goe on foote to Paris I made me a base couer for my apparrel which when they perceiued they tooke from me the inward doublet wherein I had quilted the gold and though they perceiued that vnder my basecouer I had a Ierkin and hose laide with gold lace yet they were content to take onely the inner dublet and to leaue me all the rest of my apparrell wherein I doe acknowledge their courtesie since theeues giue all they doe not take Besides they tooke not onely my Crownes but my sword cloake and shirtes and made a very vnequall exchange with me for my hat giuing me another deepe greasie French hat for it One thing in this miserie made me glad I formerly said that I sold my horse for 16. French Crownes at Metz which Crownes I put in the bottome of a wooden box and couered them with a stinking ointment for scabs Sixe other French Crownes for the worst euent I lapped in cloth and thereupon did wind diuers colored threads wherein I sticked needles as if I had been so good a husband as to mend my own clothes This box and this ball of thread I had put in my hose as things of no worth and when in spovling me they had searched my pockets they first tooke the boxe and smelling the stinke of the ointment they cast it away on the ground neither were they so frugail to take my bal of thread to mend their hose but did tread it likewise vnder their feet Then they rode swiftly to their companions and I with some sparke of ioy in my greater losse tooke vp the box and ball of thread thinking my selfe lesse miserable that by the Grace of God I had some money left to keepe me from begging in a strange Countrey This Tragedie thus acted I and my guide very sad because he despared of my abilitie to pay him his hire went forward our iourney hee wondering that I was no more deiected in the danger I had passed and for my miserable want of mony thinking that I had neuer a penny left whom he did see so narrowly searched and yet perceiued that I was in some sort merry At last we did see the City of Challons not farre distant and vpon our left hand was a faire spring which had seuen heads to which wee went to drinke being both very thirstie Here I put into the water the hat which the theeues had giuen me by vnequall exchange for mine being greasie to the very top and deepe according to the French fashion and filling it with water thrice drunke it vp greedily Then I filled it the fourth time and broke into it the crummes of the browne loafe the crust whereof had to that time kept my mouth with some moisture which I deuoured and thought I had neuer eaten better brewesse but three daies ficknesse of vomiting and loosenesse made me repent this intemperance Thence wee went to Chalons where my guide brought mee to a poore Ale-house and when I expostulated the wrong he did me he replied That stately Innes were not for men who had neuer a penny in their purses but I told him that I looked for comfort in that case rather from Gentlemen then Clownes Whereupon hee willingly obeyed me and with a deiected and fearefull countenance brought me to the chiefe Inne where he ceased not to bewaile my misery and to recount my Tragedy as if it had been the burning of Troy till the very Hoste despairing of my abilitie to pay him began to looke disdainefully vpon me The next morning when hee being to returne home and taking his leaue of me I paied him his hire which he neither asked nor expected thinking that I had not one penny and likewise paied my Hoste for my supper and lodging he first began to talke like a mad man and comming to himselfe professed that he knew not how I should haue one pennie except I were a Iugler or an Alchumist or had a familiar spirit Then confounded betweene wonder and ioy hee began to triumph with the seruants and would not depart till hee had first drunke a quart of Wine The building of Chalons was low and base being of Timber and Clay and this Citie hath no beauty but in the large Market-place and strong Fort. On the West side without the walles are pleasant Ilands whether the Citizens vse to passe by boat and to walke there for recreation I formerly said that I spent in this iourney some fortie two soulz by the day for my diet after which rate I payed here and if extraordinarily I called for wine I payed two soulz and a halfe for a measure little bigger then our English pint From hence to Paris I passed in a long wagon of Paris and paied two French Crownes for my place therein The first day we passed in like way to the former and in the same Prouince of Champaigne foureteene miles to Sizan and did scarse see two poore Villages by the way but I was told that some halfe a mile out of the high way was the castle Chastilton wherof the Admiral of France killed in the Massacre of Paris and the Gentlemen of his Family haue their name The second day we were carried 12 miles to Nangi being as vet not freed frō the cries of poore people driuing their cattell from Troopes of Souldiers but for my part I made the prouerbe true that the passenger hauing nothing sings before the thiefe Yet was I not without feare of a greater mischiefe then robbing by the losse of my life hauing no mony to redeeme it from the cut-throat souldiers The third day we were carried ten miles in Champaigne through a Champion Country lying wast 4 miles more to Paris through a fruitfull plaine of corne pleasant hils planted with vines This Country wherein Paris is seated is compailed with the riuers of Seyne Matrona Orsa is properly called the Iland of France The Parisians haue their name either from Paris of Troy or of the Parrhasij a people of Asia which did accompany Hercules or of the Temple of Isis neete
the former And the whole circuit of the City without the wals excluding the suburbes is said to be of sixe miles The market places which are in the streetes are vulgarly called Carrefours as being fouresquare and hauing passage to them on all sides and they are eleuen in number namely foure of the Butchers which vpon a sedition raised by them were diuided into foure tribes the fifth the shambles vpon the mount Saint Genouefa the sixth built for the poore which haue no shops and for the weomen which sell linnen which is vulgarly called La lingeria well knowne for the cosinages of these linnen sellers the seuenth of the brokers vulgarly called La Fripperie the eight and chiefe is in the Iland called Marshes because of the Fenny soyle the ninth is for fishes of the Riuer seated neere the tenth being the little bridge of Saint German of the Vniuersity the eleuenth is without the gate for hogges There be foureteene fountaines besides the fountaine of the Queene and that of the Innocents built of stone The Ville hath eight Hospitals the Vniuersity foure and the Iland two The description of Paris A the Gate Saint Antoine B the Bastile C the gate of the Temple D gate of Saint Martin E gate of Saint Denys F gate Mont-martre G gate Saint Honore H New gate I Le L'ouure K gate Saint Victoire L gate Marcell M gate of Saint Iames N gate Saint Michaell O gate Saint Germain P gate Bussia Q gate Nella R Cathedrall Church S Church Saint Bartholmew T the greater Pallace V Pont denostredame W Pont Au change X Pont aux musniers Y Petit pont Z Pont Saint Michaell XX Pont neuf I will begin the description of the City with the first part thereof called La ville which hath seuen gates from the South east to the North-west I will not speake of the old or inner gates of the old City which gates since the building of the new wals are called false gates as seruing for no vse Onely I will say that they were of the same number and so called as these new gates are and that King Francis the first for comelinesse sake caused them to be demolished The first of these seuen gates lies towards the South-east and is called A Saint Antoine By this gate I entered the City when I came from Chalons and without this gate I did then see the Kings Pallace not farre distant from Paris and most sweet for the seat and building called Bois du' Sainct vincent and then I passed the bridge called Calantoine being without this gate where the Riuer Matrona fals into the Seyne and so entered Paris by the gate and the Church and faire streete of Saint Antoin Neere this gate Francis the first built a fort As I came in on the left hand was the Tower B called the Bastile well knowne by that name which was begun to be built in the yeere 1369 by Hugho Ambriet Prouost of Paris and he being condemned to perpetuall prison for imputed heresie it came to the Kings hand On the same side is the Kings store-house for brasse Ordinance neere the Monastery of the Celestines in whose Church there be many marble sepulchers and among the rest one erected to Lewis of Orleans slaine by the Duke of Burgondy and to his Dutchesse Valentina daughter to the Duke of Milan by King Lewis the twelfth with learned Epitaphs On the same side is the Church of Saint Paul the House of the Queene the house of the Prouost of Paris the publike Senate-house and the place called the Greue famous by the capitall punishment of offenders For in this part of the City called Ville there be three places for the execution of Iustice the other two parts hauing not one place namely this of the Greue and that of the Temple lying on the left hand of the gate called Temple next adioining to this and the third called Luparia lying on the left hand of the scuenth gate called the new gate And from these three places the dead bodies are carried out of the gate of Saint Martin to be buried vpon Mont-falcon And giue me leaue out of order to remember you that Pierre Remy Treasurer and gouernour of France vnder King Charles the faire repaired this Mont-Falcon and that his enemies then wrote vpon the Gallowes standing there this time in French Ence gibeticy ser à pendu Pierre Remy Vpon this gybet here you see Peter Remy hanged shall be And that according to the same hee was in the time of Phillip of Valois hanged there for the ill administration of his office On the right hand as you come in by the same gate of Saint Anthony is a place for Tylting called Tournelles Not far thence at Saint Catherines Church in the Schollers valley is an inscription witnessing that a house was pulled downe to the ground for an arrow shot into the Church when the Rector of the Vniuersity was there at Masse in the yeere 1404 there being at that time a great sedition raised betweene the City and the Vniuersity about a scholler denled with dirt and that this house by permission of the Vniuersity was built againe in the yeere 1516. Also as you come into this gate on the right hand in the Monastery Saint Anthony a dried Crocodill is hung vp which a French Ambassador at Venice left there for a monument in the yeere 1515. And there is a sepulcher of the daughters of King Charles being of blacke marble with their statuaes of white marble Neere that lies the Church yard of Saint Iohn for publike buriall made in the yard of the house of Peter 〈◊〉 which was as pulled downe to the ground in the yeere 1392 because the Constable of France was wounded from thence The second gate towards the East is the gate of the C Temple neere which is the fort called Le Rastillon on your righthand as you come in and this fort or some other in this place was built by Francis the first On the lefthand as you come in is the house of the Templary Knights like a little City for the compasse and from it this gate hath the name And when this order of Knighthood was extinguished their goods were giuen to the Order of Saint Iohn The Church of this house is said to be built like that of Ierusalem and there be the monuments of Bertrand Peter Priors of France the Table of the Altar is curiously painted and here Phillip Villerius Master of the Knights of Saint Iohn was buried in the yeere 1532 to whom a statua of white marble is erected The third gate is called D Saint Martine and it lieth towards the North-east without which gate is the Suburb of Saint Laurence so called of the Church of Saint Laurence The fourth gate is called E Saint Denis and without the same is the Hospitall of Saint Lazarus and the foresaid Mount Falcon and when King Henry the fourth besieged this City he did much
twelfth did build with Regall expence this Chamber and another called the Chamber of Accounts vulgarly la chambre des comptes In this Pallace the Chappell built by Saint Lewis lyes vpon an arched Chappell which hath no pillars in the middest but onely on the sides and they say that the true Images of Christ and the blessed Virgin are vpon the lower dore And in this Chappell the reliques are kept which Balduinus the Emperour of Constantinople ingaged to the Venetians and the King of France redeemed out of their hands In the very Hall of the Pallace round about the pillars are shops of small wares or trifles Right against the Gate of the Pallace stood the house of Iohn Chastell which was pulled downe in memorie of a young man his sonne brought vp among the Iesuites and a practiser of their wicked doctrine who attempting the death of King Henrie the fourth did strike out one of his teeth I haue said formerly that this Iland was ioyned to the Ville by three Bridges and to the Vniuersitie by two Bridges and at this time is ioyned to them both by the sixth Bridge The first V Bridge towards South-East leades to the street of Saint Martin and is called pont de nostre Dame that is the Bridge of our Lady and it was built of wood in the yeere 1417 hauing threescore walking paces in length and eighteene in breadth and threescore houses of bricke on each side built vpon it But this bridge in the time of Lewis the twelfth falling with his owne weight was rebuilt vpon sixe Arches of stone with threescore eight houses all of like bignesse built vpon it and was paued with stone so that any that passed it could hardly discerne it to bee a Bridge The second Bridge of the Broakers vulgarly W Pont au Change is supported with pillars of wood The third Bridge of the Millers vulgarly called X Pont aux Musniers lies towards the North-West and leades to the streete of Saint Denis which they say did fall and was rebuilt within three yeeres then past By these three Bridges the Iland was of old ioyned to the Ville The fourth Bridge lying on the other side of the Iland towards the South leades into the streete of Saint Iames and is called Y le petit pont that is The little Bridge being rebuilt or repaired of stone by King Charles the sixth The sifth Bridge is called Z Saint Michell and lying towards the South-West side leades into the streete of Saint Michell and hath a pleasant walke towards the foresaid Bridge of the millers on the other side of the Iland and built vpon pillars of wood was repaired in the yeere 1547 and adorned with bricke houses By these two Bridges the Iland was of old ioyned to the Vniuersitie Since that time after the ende of the Ciuill warre a new Bridge hath been lately built on that side of the Iland which lyes towards the North-West and it is called XX pont neuf that is The new Bridge ioyning the Iland both to the Ville and to the Vniuersitie The chiefe streetes of the Iland are the very Bridges and the 〈◊〉 waies leading to the Cathedrall Church and to the greater Pallace The Church or the little Citie compassed with walles in respect of the Church of Saint Denis the Protecting Saint of the French is two little miles distant from Paris Hither I went passing by the Gate of Saint Denis lying towards the North East Thence I passed vpon a way paued with Flint in a large Plaine towards the East hauing Mount Falcon on my right hand whether I said that they vse to draw the dead bodies of those that are beheaded in the Ville and the next way to this mount is to goe out by the Gate of Saint Martin And vpon my left hand I had the Mountaine of the Martirs vulgarly called Mont Martre and the next way from the Citie to this Mountaine is to goe out by the Gate Mont Martre Vpon this Mountaine they say that the Martyrs Dennis Areopagita and Rustieus and Eleutherius were beheaded in the time of Domitian because they would not offer sacrifice to Mercurie And they constantly beleeue this miracle that all these three Martyrs carried each one his head to the Village Catula which now is called Saint Dennis And I obserued by the way many pillars with Altars set vp in the places where they say the Martyrs rested forsooth with their heades in their hand and at last fell downe at Catula where this Church was built ouer them and likewise a a Monastery by King Dagobertus who also lyes there buried and hath a statua in the Cloister of the Monastery Here are the Sepulchers of the Kings among which that of King Francis the 〈◊〉 is somewhat more stately then the other being of white Marble with the statuaes of that King and his Queene Claudia there buried with him That of Lewis the twelfth and his Queene is of white Marble but lesse faire and the third erected to Charles the eight in a Chappell of the Church is of blacke Marble with some statuaes of brasse To conclude to euery three or foure of the rest of the Kings one poore monument is erected Neither are these sepulchers of the Kings in my opinion any thing stately or answerable to the fame But at the entrance of the Chauncell the representation of Christ buried and of the three Kings or Wisemen and of the shepheards and others there engrauen seemed to me who haue no skill in that Art to bee of much Art and beautie I haue read other Itineraries which relate that here are bells of most pure Mettal that the dores are of Brasse guilded ouer that the Table of the high Altar is of Gold that here is a Crosse of Gold offered by King Dagobert that the bodies of the Martyrs are laid in a coffin of Gold that the roofe of the Church is partly of siluer and that there is a Crucifix of Gold before the Altar But I should thinke that these old ornaments are taken away and not to bee seene at this day Hauing viewed Paris I desired to see the French King Henrie the fourth and his Court and because I lately had been robbed aswell of my cloake as of my Crownes here I bought for some two French Crownes an old cloake among the Brokers in the Market place called the Fripperie So I tooke my iourney towards the Court and went by boate vpon the Seyne which boat daily passeth from Paris towards the South nine leagues to Corbeuile and foure leagues to Melune hauing on both sides pleasant Hilles planted with Vines and I payed seuen soulz for my passage Then I went on foote foure miles ouer a Mountaine paued with Flint to the Kings Pallace called Fontain-bleau that is the Fountaine of faire water Beyond the same Mountaine this Pallace of the King is seated in a Plaine compassed with Rockes And it is built with Kingly Magnificence of Free-stone diuided into
our reward and once by the way to make shew of danger as it seemed to me lest we should repent vs of the money we had giuen them they rushed into some old houses with such a noise as if they would haue killed al they met but no enemy appeared if they had lurked there I think they would not haue fought with the Earles souldiers who fauoured them as on the other side if they had assaulted them I doubt whether our mercinary souldiers would haue lost one dram of blood for our safety As long as these souldiers were with vs we partly went by water each man paying 3. stiuers for his passage partly on foot They being now dismissed we went on foot a Dutch mile in the Territory of the Earle of Oldenburg to the Village Aopen where each man paid foure stiuers for his dinner In the afternoone we being many consorts hired diners waggons paying for each of them twenty fiue stiuers to Oldenburg being foure miles and we came thither by nine of the clock in the night and there each man paid fifteene groates for his supper and breakefast The second day in the morning we went foure miles to Dolmenhurst and each man paid two copstucks for his Waggon Then sixe of vs hired a Waggon one mile to Breme for three copstucks where each man paid foureteene lubecke shillings for his supper and breakefast From hence eleuen of vs hired two Waggons to Stoade for which each of vs paid thirty lubecke shillings The first day we went foure miles to a poore Village where each of vs paid fiue lubecke shillings for our suppers And hauing rested here somefew houres vpon straw we went before the breake of day three miles to Foard and making no stay there passed three miles further to Stoade Hence fiue of vs hired a Coach for fiue dollers to Luneburg ten miles distant and the first day in the afternoone we went three miles to Alte-kloster that is the old Cloyster which was seated in the Bishoppricke of Breme and the next day one mile in the same Bishoppricke and sixe in the Duke of Luneburgs territory and so we came to Luneburg but the horses being weary and the iourny long we came so late in the night as we were forced to lodge without the gates where each man paid fiue lubecke shillings for his supper three for his breakefast and fiue for beere The next day we entered Luneburge where each man paid foure lubecke shillings and a halfe for his dinner From hence foure of vs hired a Coach for seuen dollers to Brunswicke being sixteen miles distant the Coach-man paying for his horses meat and we for his owne meat The same day in the afternoone we passed fiue miles in sixe houres space to Sawerburg where each of vs paid for our owne supper with our part of the Coach-mans supper seuen lubecke shillings The second day in the morning we passed foure miles to Owsen where each man paid in like sort fiue lubecke shillings for our dinner In the afternoone we passed three miles to Gethurne where the Duke of Luneburg hath a Castle which the Dutch call Schlosse where for ours and the Coach-mans supper and breakfast we foure English consorts paid a doller and twelue stiuers The third day in the morning we passed foure miles to Brunswicke where in like sort we foure paied for our owne and the Coach-mans beuer supper and dinner two dollers and a halfe From hence sixe consorts of vs hired a Coach forthirty dollers to Nurnberg forty eight miles distant and the coach-man paid for his horse-meat and we for his owne meat which hereafter diuided among vs I will reckon in our seureall expences The first day at ten of the clocke beginning our iourney we passed through fruitfull hils of corne one mile where we left on our left hand Wolfenbeyten a City where the Duke of Brunswicke keepes his Court with a Village belonging to his brother the Bishop of Ossenbruck And there we met with certaine of the Dukes hors-men who kept the waies safe from theeues and at their request we bestowed on them an Ort or fourth part of a doller Then in the like way we passed two miles and a halfe to Rauchell where each of vs paid for ours and the Coach-mans supper fiue filuer groshen The second day in the morning we passed three miles and a halfe to Halberstatt where each man paid in like sort for ours and the Coach-mans dinner halfe a doller Our iourny this day was through fruitfull hils of corne not inclosed and groues and woods in a fruitfull and pleasant Country The Duke of Brunswicke is called the Administrator of the Bishoppricke of Halberstatt and hath the rents thereof After dinner we passed one mile to Ermersteben subiect to the Duke of Brunswicke through a plaine more pleasant then the former hauing no inclosures but being fruitfull in corne and full of Villages where wee foure English consorts paid twenty three siluer groshen for our owne and the Coach-mans supper I haue omitted the quality of the soyle in places which I haue formerly discribed which now I mention againe because this is the first time I passed from Brunswicke to Nurnburg The third day in the morning we passed in a dirty way but through most pleasant hils and fruitfull of corne but hauing no woods nor so much as a tree two miles to Mansfield The Counts of Man field well knowne Captaines in the warres of the Low-Countries and Hungary haue their name from this Castle and Village and this territory hauing besides some twelue Castles being not sufficient to maintaine the great number of them they were forced to seeke aduancement by the warres The Citizens of Mansfield were of old very rich by the Mines of this territory but at this time they had scarce bread to eat the Counts hauing ingaged these mines to the Fugari of Augsburg and to some Citizens of Nurnburg Some of these mines yeeld gold but so sparingly as it scarce quits the cost Others yeeld siluer and the very mines of Copper in each hundred yeeld twenty lot that is halfe ounces of siluer Of these mines some are two hundred Clafters that is fathoms deepe vnder the earth And these mines of the mountaine are borne vp with pillars and buildings of wood vnder the earth lest it should fall vpon the workmen They say that these mines yeeld yeerly one hundred forty thousand dutch guldens besides the expences At this time three officers liued in the Castle who receiued the profits of the mines for those to whom they were ingaged whereof one receiued fiue parts the other three the third onely one part Moreouer here be wonderfull stones in the quarries which broken into neuer so many parts haue still the liuely figure of diuers things Our Hoste shewed vs some of them which had throughout the figures of diuers fishes in a Lake adioining this stone of one fish that of another and so of all the kinds
Holy Scriptures witnes Vpon Munday the third of Iune at nine of the clocke in the morning the Subasha of Ramma sent vs a Horseman or Lancyer to guide vs and with him came the Atalla that is interpreter whom the Italians call Drogomano who was a Maronite Christian that vsed to guide strangers They brought vs Asses to ride vpon which they vse there in stead of Horses excepting onely the souldiers and with them came a Muccaro so they call those that hier out Asses Mules or Cammels We presently landed about noone and when my brother leaped vpon land and according to the manner bended downe to kisse it by chance he fell and voided much blood at the nose and howsoeuer this be a superstitious signe of ill yet the euent was to vs tragicall by his death shortly after happening Here for our carriage namely our shirts for the rest we had left in the Barke we iointly paid fiue meydines for cafar that is Tribute and the Officers of Ioppa extorted from each of vs for his person halfe a Spanish Reale neither would they be pleased till each of vs gaue them two meydines in gift Then we iointly gaue fixe meydines to our Muccaro for his dinner and fiue of free gift Our Asses had pannels in stead of saddles ropes for bridles and ropes laid crosse the pannels and knotted at the ends in stead of stirrups The same Monday in the afternoone we rode ten miles to Ramma through a most pleasant plaine yeelding time and hysope and other fragrant herbes without tillage or planting growing so high as they came to the knees of our Asses By the way on our left hand not farre out of the high way lay the ruines of the City Lydda where Saint Peter cured one sicke of the palsie and Saint George is said to haue suffered martyrdome and that his head is yet kept in a Greeke Church We also passed by a Village hauing a moschee or Turkish Church and being full of pleasant Orchards of Figge-trees Oliue-trees Pome-granates bearing buds of flesh colour and being like a Barbery tree by little and little couered with a greene rinde and many kinds of fruites the abundance whereof in these parts we might easily guesse when wee bought in the Port of Ioppa more then a thousand Abricots for six Aspers at which time left we should surfet on such daintaies the vntemperate eating whereof we had read to haue often killed many Europeans we durst not eate them raw but Iod the most part of them Now vpon the third of Iune they had almost gathered in their Haruest and all the fields were full of Cotten growing like Cabbage two foote high and yeelding a round Apple out of which they gather the Cotten This Cotten is sowed in April and gathered in September and great quantity thereof is carried from hence into Europe At Ramma we were brought into a house where Pilgrimes vse to be lodged and it was of old great strong but at this time more fit to lodge beasts then men Some say it was the House of Ioseph of Arimathia others say it was Nicodemus his house and there was a fountaine of water and a Court yard to walke in but the roomes were full of dust and we hardly got straw to lie vpon There were yet some marbles and ruines of building that shewed it to haue beene a faire house The Maronite Christians brought vs victuals and they sold vs a pound of bisket for sixe meidines twelue egs for one meidine a Cheese for one Rice for two some two English quarts of wine for fiue a salet for one and twelue Cakes they hauing no leauened bread for foure meidines We that were Lay-men gaue each of vs sixe Zechines and each of the Friars fiue into the hands of our Interpreter to be giuen to the Subasha for tribute or rather for our safe conduct I know that fauour is done to Friars especially by these Ministers belonging to Monasteries and we committed the ordering of our expences to one of the Franciscan Friars who had best experience so as it may be the Interpreter restored to the Friars their money or part of it but I am sure these my eies did see them pay so much One in the name of the Subasha brought vs for a present some flaggons of a medicinall drinke made of cooling hearbes and sold in the Tauernes as we sell wine We iointly gaue fiue meidines to a watch-man appointed to keepe our doore and protect vs from wrong who being a man of very great stature was called Goliah and he walked all night at our gate where he did sing or rather houle with his hoarce voice continually Some write that there is onely due one Zechine to the Subasha another to the Captaine of the Arabians and twenty fiue meidines for Cafar or Tribute and half a Zechine to the Muccaro who let out their Asses to Pilgrimes and that the guide deceiues the Christians of all the rest I am sure that the guide being of experience deliuers the Christians from many iniuries offered them by the Arabians and others for which fauour they cannot sufficiently require him and if any deale sparingly with him he complaines of them to the Guardian of the Monastery at Ierusalem who neuer suffers him to be sent away discontented neither wants he power himselfe to deceiue the Christians at his pleasure if he beare that mind At Ramma we iointly gaue one Zechine to our Muccaro of whom we hired our Asses And the fourth of Iune hauing him onely to conduct vs we tooke our ioutney before day towards Ierusalem being thirty miles distant I meane of Italy As we rode before day our Muccaro warned vs to be silent lest we should waken the Arabians Turkes or Thecues who then slept and were like if they awaked to offer vs violence or at least to extort some money from vs. The Arabians are not vnlike the wild Irish for they are subiect to the great Turke yet being poore and farre distant from his imperiall seat they cannot be brought to due obedience much lesse to abstaine from robberies After we had rode ten miles we did see vpon a hill not farre distant on our right hand the ruines of the House or Pallace of the good Thiefe crucified with our Sauiour which ruines yet remaine and shew that the house was of old stately built as if he had beene a man of some dignity banished for robbing of passengers and when he was brought to the Magistrates hand had beene condemned to death for the same From hence to the very City of Ierusalem the Mountaines or Rockes doe continually rise higher and higher till you come to the City our way hitherto hauing beene in a pleasant plaine rich in corne and pasture These mountaines which we after passed seemed stony and barren but yeelded fragrant hearbes and excellent corne growing betweene the great stones and some vallies were pleasant as the vally of hieromia as I thinke
and the State of Venice would assist the Raguzeant against them and no way indure that the Turkish Ottoman should make himselfe Lord of that Hauen Vpon the three and twenty of Aprill towards euening we sayled by the little Iland Augusta being yet of a good large circuit and populous and subiect to the Raguzeans but the Coast is dangerous for ships arriuall by reason of the Rockes called the Augustines and by the little Iland Corsolavi Some Ilands in this Sea are subiect to the Raguzeans and some neere to the Northerne continent haue the Great Turke for their Lord but the rest are subiect to the Venetians and are very many in number but little and good part of them little or not at all inhabited The Italians our consorts told vs of an Iland not farre distant called Pelaguza and lying neere the continent of Italy vpon the Coast whereof the famous Turkish Pyrate of Algier a Hauen in Africa was lately wont to houer and lie hidden and made rich booties of the Venetian and Italian Merchants Vpon Sunday the foure and twenty of Aprill we had in sight and little distant the little Ilands Catza and Lissa and in the afternoone on our left hand towards Italy the Iland Pomo and in the euening towards Dalmatia two Ilands and vpon the continent the City Zaga being some two hundred miles distant from Venice And the night following we sailed ouer an arme of the Sea some thirty miles broade lying betweene Dalmatia and Istria called Il Cornaro which we passed without any appearance of danger though otherwise it be generally reputed so dangerous as the Venetians offended with any Marriner vse this imprecation Maledetto sia il Cornaro che t' ha lasciato passare that is Cursed be the Cornaro for letting thee passe Vpon Monday the fiue and twenty of Aprill as we sailed by the Coast of Istria one of the Marriners aged and as we thought honest and of some authority among the rest priuately admonished me that I should safely locke vp our goods in our chests left the inferior Marriners should steale our shirts or any other thing they found negligently left which they vsed to doe especially at the end of any voyage Vpon Tuesday the sixe and twenty of April we cast anchor beyond Pola in the continent of Istria a City now ruined and vpon the seuen and twenty day we entred the Hauen of Rouinge in Istria subiect to the Venetians where the ships vse to take a Pilot for their owne safety or els are tied so to doe by some old priuiledge of that City Here the Prouisors for health gaue vs liberty of free conuersation as they had formerly done at Zante seeing no man in our ship to be sicke or sickely And I did not a little wonder when I obserued each second or third person of this City to halt and be lame of one foot which made me remember the Citizens of Islebe in Germany and in the Prouince of Saxony where almost all the men haue wry neckes whereof I knew the cause namely because they vsed daily to dig in mines with their neckes leaning on one side but of this common lamenes of the Inhabitants in Rouinge I could not learne any probable cause except it were the foule disease of lust raigning in those parts which I rather thought likely because the lamenesse was common to weomen as men Now the sayling in our great ship was like to be more trouble some dangerous and slow whereupon fiue of vs ioyning together did vpon the thirtieth of Aprill after the old stile hier a boate of sixe Oares for seuen Venetian Duckets to Venice where we arriued the next day towards euening and staied in our boat vpon the wharfe of the Market place of Saint Marke till the Prouisors of health sitting in their Office neere that place came vnto vs and after some conference vnderstanding that we and our ship were free of all infection or sicknesse gaue vs free liberty of conuersation Wee staied three dayes at Venice to refresh our selues and paied each man three lyres for each meale in a Dutch Inne Then hauing receiued money of a Merchant I went to the Village Mestre and there bought of Dutchmen newly arriued in Italy two horses for my selfe and my man the one for thirtie the other for twentie ducates These horses I sold at Stode in Germany after my iourney ended at or about the same rate He that hath the Dutch tongue and either knowes the waies of Germany himselfe or hath consorts skilfull therein being to trauell from Stode or those parts into Italy shall finde more profit in buying a horse in those parts of Germany for so hee shall saue great summes vsually paid for coches and at the iournies end or rather by the way towards the ende of his iourney may in Italy sell his horses with good profit In the Village Mestre each of vs paid each meale fiftie soldi that is two lires and a halfe From hence we took the right way to Augsburg in Germany to Nurnberg Brunswick and to Stode an old Citie lying on the Northern Sea of Germany The particulars of which iourney I here omit hauing in my iourney to Ierusalem passed the very same way from Stode to Venice So as it shall suffice to adde some few things in generall Within the confines of Italy each man of vs paid for each meale fortie and sometimes fiftie Venetian soldi and for hay and stable for his horse commonly at noone foure soldi at night twelue soldi and for ten measures of oates giuen each day to each horse fiftie soldi After we entred Germany each man paid each meale commonly twentie creitzers at Inspruch twentie foure and somtimes twentie six creitzers for hay six creitzers a day or there-abouts and for ten measures of oates seruing one horse for a day wee paid fiftie creitzers In the middle Prouinces of Germany each of vs paid for each meale commonly sixteene creitzers that is foure batzen and in the parts vpon the Northerne sea some foure Lubeck shillings And from the Citie Armstat seated betweene Augsburg and Nurnberg to the said Northern sea side we had a new measure of oates called Hembd one of which measures was sold for some tenne Lubeck shillings and serued three horses for our baite at noone and another was almost sufficient for them at night From Stode seated vpon the German Sea we passed in a boat to the outmost Hauen where wee went abroad an English ship vpon the fourth of Iuly after the old stile being Tuesday The sixt of Iuly early in the morning we set sayle and the eight of Iuly we came vpon the most wished land of England and cast anchor neere Orford a Castle in Suffolke Vpon Saturday the ninth of Iuly after the old stile we landed at Grauesend and without delay with the night-tide passed in a boat to London where we ariued on Sunday at foure of the clock in the morning the tenth of
Iuly in the yeere 1597 our hearts beingfull of ioy that our mercifull God had safely brought vs thither This early hower of the morning being vnfit to trouble my friends I went to the Cocke an Inne of Aldersgate streete and there apparrelled as I was laid me downe vpon a bed where it happened that the Constable and watchmen either being more busie in their office then need was or hauing extraordinary charge to search vpon some foraine intelligence and seeing me apparrelled like an Italian tooke me for a Iesuit or Priest according to their ignorance for the crafty Priests would neuer haue worne such clothes as I then did But after some few howers when I awaked and while I washed my hands did inquire after my friends health dwelling in the same streete the Host of the house knowing me dismissed the watchmen that say to apprehend me and told me how I had been thus mistaken CHAP. V Of the iourney through England Scotland and Ireland HE that desires to see the Cities and Antiquities of England Scotland and Ireland let him reade the Chapter of the vsuall manner of all kingdomes to iourney and to hire Coches and horses and also the Chapter wherein these Kingdomes are Geographically described out of Camden or if he list rather let him reade Camden himselfe of this point and lastly let him in the same last named Chapter peruse the diet of these Kingdomes and the entertainement in Innes Touching the distances of places by miles first for England he shall easily find a little printed booke particularly setting downe the same For Scotland I will briefely set downe my iourney therein And for Ireland the Cities being rare and farre distant hee must haue a guide who may without great trouble inquire them out Onely giue me leaue for the helpe of strangers to adde this one thing namely how they being curious to search antiquities and loth to omit the light of things worthy of obseruation may to this purpose best dispose of their iournies which all other men may fit to their endes and purposes First let them passe out of Normandy to Rhye an English Hauen in Sussex then let them visit such of the fiue Kentish Ports as they please let them see Cânterbury famous for the Seate of the Metropolitan Archbishop then the Castle of Qüinborrough in the Iland of Shoppey and the Regall Nauy then let them passe by Rochester a Bishops Seate the Regall Pallace at Greenewich and Depford the Nauall storehouse and not farre thence see the broken ribbes of the ship wherein famous Sir Francis Drake compassed the World and so let them come to London When they haue viewed the Monuments of London and Westminster and seene the Kings Court they may take a cursory iourney to view such antiquities in Middlesex Surry and Barkshire as vpon the reading of Camden they shall most desire to see and especially all or the chiefe Pallaces of the King Againe from London they may take a cursory iourney to see the Vniuersity of Oxford and so by Worcester returne to London In their iourney to the confines of England and Scotland they may see the Vniuersitie of Cambridge and view the most choise antiquities mentioned by Master Camden in Harfordshire Northamptonshire Lincolnsheire Yorkeshire Durham and Northumberland My selfe vpon occasion of businesse in the month of Aprill and the yeere 1598 tooke a iourney to these said confines namely to Barwick a Towne then very strongly fortified by the English to restraine the sudden incursions of the Scots and abounding with all things necessary for food yea with many dainties as Salmons and all kindes of shell-fish so plentifully as they were sold for very small prices And here I found that for the lending of sixtie pound there wanted not good Citizens who would giue the lender a faire chamber and good dyet as long as he would lend them the mony Being to returne from Barwicke I had an earnest desire first to see the King of Scots Court So from hence I rode in one day fortie miles to Edenborrow the chiefe Citie of that Kingdome And in this said daies iourney after foure miles riding I came to Aton a Village where the Lord of Hames dwelles whose Family was powerfull in those parts After sixteene miles more I came to Dunbar which they said to haue been of old a Towne of some importance but then it lay ruined and seemed of little moment as well for the pouertie as the small number of inhabitants After the riding of eight miles more on the left hand towards the West and something out of the high way the pleasant Village Hadrington lay which the English in the raigne of Queene Elizabeth tooke and kept against the French who drawne ouer in the time of faction kept the Towne of Dunbar and fortified the same When I had ridden fiue miles further I came to the ancient and according to the building of that Kingdome stately Pallace of the L. Seton beautified with faire Orchards and Gardens and for that clime pleasant Not farre thence lyes the Village Preston-graung belonging to the Family of the Cars powerfull from these parts to the very borders of England within land After I had ridden three miles more I came to the Village Fisherawe neere which beyond a Brooke lyes the Village Musselborow in a stony soyle famous for a great Victorie of the English against the Scots On the left hand towards the West and something out of the high way the Queene of Scots then kept her Court in the absence of the King at the Village Dawkeith in a Pallace belonging to the Earle of Murray From the said Village Fishrawe I rode the rest of the way being foure miles and so in one dayes iourney as I said came to Edenborow seated in Lodouey of old called Fictland the most ciuill Region of Scotland being hilly and fruitfull of corne but hauing little or no wood This City is the seat of the King of Scotland and the Courts of Iustice are held in the same Of old according to the changeable fortune of warre it was sometimes in the possession of the Scots sometimes of the English inhabiting this Easterne part of Scotland till the English Kingdome being shaken with the inuasions of the Danes at last about the yeere 960. it became wholly in the power of the Scots This City is high seated in a fruitfull soyle and wholsome aire and is adorned with many Noblemens Towers lying about it and aboundeth with many springs of sweet waters At the end towards the East is the Kings Pallace ioyning to the Monastery of the Holy Crosse which King Dauid the first built ouer which in a Parke of Hares Conies and Deare an high mountaine hangs called the chaire of Arthur of Arthur the Prince of the Britanes whose monuments famous among all Ballad-makers are for the most part to be found on these borders of England and Scotland From the Kings Pallace at the East the City still riseth
the Butlers declared themselues for Tyrone as soone as Loughfoyle Garrison was planted at his backe his Lordship doubted not to be able to meete the Lord President in Kilkenny and with their ioynt Forces to subdue the Rebels and set those parts in obedience At this time the Fort of Phillipstown in Ophaley otherwise called the Kings County was to be victualed and Ony Mac Rory with the O Mores in Leax together with the O Conners in Ophaly bragged that the Queenes forces should not be able to victuall it Now by the emulation of one of our chiefe Commanders against another preferred before him and strengthened by the Court factions of England the said Commander had set out some weake Companies for this seruice to be led by the other as in preheminence of his place but a neere friend to the Lord Deputie conceiuing how much this first actions successe might adde reputation or giue a blemish both to his Lordship and the Army gaue notice thereof so as his Lordship offering the same Commander the leading of those Companies he refusing to goe with them manifested the suspected emulation Whereupon his Lordship caused foureteene strong Companies to be allotted and gaue the command of them in chiefe to Sir Oliuer Lambert who conducted the victuals and led the men with such iudgement and valour as being strongly fought with at the comming off and especially at the going on yet they performed the seruice with great losse and discouragement to those proud Rebels and the fifteenth of Aprill his Lordship aduertised Master Secretary of this good seruice The thirtieth of Aprill the Earle of Ormond sent to the Lord Deputie from the Woods the conditions Ony Mac Rory demaunded vnder his owne hand for his liberty which till then he could not get because Ony staied for Tyrones and his confederate aduice adding a postscript of his Lordships owne hand that the letter was brought to him ready written neither was he allowed any man of his owne to write for him The insolent demaunds were these First that her Maiesties forces should bee remoued from Leax and the Garrisons deliuered to Oney Mac Roryes hands Secondly that pledges should be deliuered him for caution that no garisons shuld euer be planted there which done Ony and his followers would submit themselues Thirdly if pledges were not giuen then the Garrisons also in Ophaly should be remoued and euery man left to shift for himselfe The postscript required that vpon such pledges deliuered a generall protection for sixe weeks should be sent to Onye Mac Rorye and all his friends in Lemster whereupon answere should be returned who desired the benefit thereof but during the said time of the protection no forces of her Maiesties should bee sent against their confederates in Vlster and the North. The 5 of May the L. Deputie drew into the North parts to make Tyrone look towards him so to giue better facility to our men to settle themselues in garrison at Loughfoyle But before his departure from Dublin for the better gouerning defending the Pale his Lr. did by cōmission leaue Sir H. Poore to commaund in all martiall affaires and some of the Counsell to gouerne Ciuill matters during his absence And staying some few daies at Tredagh for the Companies which had victualed Phillipston and for the Garrisons of Kels and Ardee as also for victuals he marched to Dundalke whence taking that Garrison also with him he passed the pace of the Moyry on Whitsunday morning and so came to the Newry where hee vnderstood that according to his opinion Tyrone turning his forces from Loughsoyle was come in great haste to Dungannon had razed the old Fort of Blackwater burned Armagh and had drawne his men into the strong fastnes of Loughlurken where with great industrie the rebels had made trenches and fortified the place some three miles in length His Lordship to the former end aduancing towards him on the 16 of May drew out of the Newrie and incamped in the way towards Armagh with 1500 foote and some 200 horse And there hauing notice that the rebels inquired after the time when the Earle of Southampton and Sir Oliuer Lambert Sergeant Maior were to come to the Army and with all hearing that the said Earle and Sergeant Maior were that day arriued at Dundalke His Lordship earely in the morning on the 17 of May sent Captaine Edward Blany with 500 foot and 50 horse to secure their passage through the pace of the Moyrye who marched from the Campe and so through the Moyrye to the Faghard from which hill to Dundalke there was no danger There he made a stand and leauing his foot in two squadrons of 250 each himselfe with the horse passed to Dundalke and told the Earle of the forces the Lord Deputy had sent to conduct him assuring him further that his Lordship with the rest of the Army would meete him by two of the clock in the afternoone at the causey beyond the pace from which the whole pace hath the name of the Moyrye Hereupon the Earle hauing with him besides this conuoy the foot Companies of Sir Oliuer Lambert and Sir Henry Follyot and some 50 horse of voluntary Gentlemen marched to the Faghard where hee commanded one of the two squadrons aboue mentioned to march on and after that the carriages then his Lordship with the horse followed after whom the second squadron marched and last of all the two foot Companies of Sir Oliuer Lambert and Sir Henry Follyot Captaine Blany commanding the vanguard aduanced towards the Foure-milewater being a Forde all inuironed with Woods in the middest of this dangerous pace called the Moyrye And comming within halfe a mile of the same they discouered the rebels on both sides in the Wood whereupon the Earle directed the Vanguard to passe ouer the water and to make good the rising of the hill beyond it When these came within a Musket shot they perceiued two hundred foote of the enemie lodged beyond the water in the most aduantagious places Then Captaine Blany diuided his men into three Maniples sending 60 on the right hand vnder Captaine Henrie Atherton and as many on the left hand vnder Captaine Williams his Lieutenant and keeping the rest in the middest with himselfe And so by the Sergeant Maiors direrections they gaue the charge In the meane time the Lord Deputy being on the hill beyond the pace had sent his Vanguard consisting of two Regements the one vnder Sir Charles Percy and the other vnder Sir Richard Moryson two Colonels of the Army to aduance towards the pace And at this instant when Captaine Blany gaue on vpon the Rebels the said Lord Deputies vanguard appeared on the left side within two musket shot After some vollyes on either side the Rebels on the right hand and those right before Captaine Blany quitted those places and retired through the woods to the Earle of Southamptons Reare so as Captain Blany passing the water made a stand there as he
was appointed to doe till the carriage and horse should be passed And now the Lord Deputies Vanguard being come to the passage of the said water maintained a resolure skermish with the Rebels on the left hand and altogether secured the Earles troopes on that side Therebels thus beaten on both sides left some one hundred shot to skirmish with the Lord Deputies vanguard and all retired to the Earle of Southamptons reare and came desperatly on our men both with horse and foot But Sir Henry Follyot made a very good stand and Sir Oliuer Lambert fearing left our men should be distressed the more to incourage them tooke his colours in his owne hand and together with some 30 of the Earle of Southamptons Vangards best men sent back to the Rere hastened towards the Assaliants to second the Earle who at that time with some 6 horse did charge the assailing Rebels and beate them a musket shot back still pursuing them til they hauing spent their powder and throwne their staues darts and innumerable stones recouered the place where Tyrone stood himselfe with some 220 horse and 200 foote in sight besides a far greater number hid in the woods which neuer came vnto this fight When our men had thus gained much ground the Earle commaunded them to march towards the Army and presently Sir Richard Wingfeild the Marshal of the army of Ireland came to the with order from the L. Dep. that since the repulsed rebels were not like to giue any second charge they should continue their march following his L ps troopes directly to the Newry In this conflict 2 of our men were slaine Capt. Atherton and Mast. Cheut were shot and some few hurt with swords and such weapons On the rebels side there were in all 1200 foot thus aduantagiously lodged and 140 horse and Tirone himself confessed that ten of his men died with ouer-trauelling in this hasty march besides such as were killed whose number could not certainely be learned The 21 of May his Lp. was aduertised from Sir Arthur Chichester Gouernour of Carickfergus that the English sent to plant at Loughsoyle were safely landed with small resistance and had taken Newcastle belonging to Sir Iohn Odogherty whose country they had spoiled wasted and that some of them sent forth vpon a draught had taken good store of cowes and killed some of Odonnels people and that they were now busie in fortifying about the Derric so as many of that country Southward did passe their cowes and moueables into Scotland depending specially vpon the hopes of Spanish succours That Brian Mac Art a rebel bordering on Carickfergus had left his fastnes of Kilultagh and now lay on the borders of Lecale where he purposed to assaile him the rather because he had sent 200 men to assist Tyrone that diuers Gentlemen and others did daily flie from the rebels and resort vnto him with their goods to the number of 1200 cowes and more would come but that he doubted their faithfulnes That to free himself of the imputation to keepe Iames Mac Surley an enemy till he had reuenged on him his brothers death he had imployed Colonell Egerton to inuite that rebell to submission but receiued onely temporising answeres whereupon according to his L ps directions hee had written and sent a messenger of purpose to the Lord of Clantyer an Ilander Scot to stirre him vp against Iames Mac Surley wrongfully possessing his rightfull inheritance in those parts of Ireland offering to ioyne the Queenes forces vnder his commaund to those powers he should bring for recouerie of this his right so as he would after yeeld due tribute and obedience to her Maiesty but that vpon the King of Scots late Proclamation that al bearing Armes should be ready to attend the King on the 17 of Iuly next following in prosecution of the Ilander Scots as was giuen out refusing to pay tribute he feared that this Lord would bee diuerted from imbracing this busines howsoeuer aduantageous to him That he had receiued Con Mac Neale the son of Neale Mac Brian and his horsemen into her Maiesties pay and would shortly waste his fathers Country whence Brian Mac Art and some 400 Bonnaghtes or hired souldiers were maintained and fed Finally that he thought fit to rebuild Olderfleete and leaue some in Ward there because the Hauen was commodious to succour weather-beaten ships going to supplie the Garrison of Loughfoyle with necessaries The 26 of May the Lord Deputie receiued a letter from the Lords in England with full answere to his late dispatches For the Earle of Ormonds detension they signified her Maiesties griefe to be the greater because any attempt made for his recouerie was like to proue his ruine and that her Maiestie had written to the Countefse to send the Earles young daughter and heire into England For Sir Arthur Oneales demaunds vpon his comming in to serue her Maiesty in the first point concerning religion her Maiesty bare with it because she took it to proceede of his ignorance not of presumption only wishing the L. Dep to let him see that her Maiesty pursued none in those parts for religion and so to satisfie him but in no wise by any contract or condition Next for his andothers suits for land and for entertainements because such ouertures were like daily to be made by such as submitted themselues and protraction of sending to and fro might lose many opportunities First touching the sutes for land her Maiesties directions in particular cases following should be a rule to the Lord Deputie for his graunts of that kind And first for Sir Arthur Oneales demaunding Tyrones estate that could not be granted him by reason Tyrone vpon pretence of an old inquisition had extended the limits of his Countrie and incroched far into the South and East But her Maiesty was pleased to giue him Tyrones principall seates reseruing places for forts and lands to maintaine them and reseruing all dependancy of the Vriaghtes or neighbour Lords also reseruing lands in Tyrone to reward the seruices of such Gentlemen as should serue vnder Sir Arthur in these warres which they should onely hold of her Maiestie by letters Patents For the rest Sir Arthur Oneale to be chiefe in Tyrone as well in superioritie as in reuenue Touching Neale Garues demaunds for O Donnels estate her Maiesties pleasure was to reserue some Portes and Castles and some lands to reward the seruices of that Countries Gentlemen intending that these and more specially the Mac Swynes should depend onely vpon her Maiestie and haue right to those lands by her letters Patents Touching Mac Guires Country her Maiestie directed like reseruations of land for Fortes and rewards of seruices and generally in all grantes charged to reserue her Maiesties ancient rights Secondly touching suitors for entertainements in pay her Maiestes pleasure was signified to allow one thousand pound a moneth so long as the Lord Deputy and the Counsel there should thinke fit to be imployed that way according to the
our men did beate them off and brought with them great store of Corne and wood and killed diuers of them In the meane time their sconts on the other side being somewhat busie with ours Neal Oquin was taken prisoner being the chiefe fauourite vnto Tyrone The next day we beganne to worke in the building of the Fort and to impeach our worke the rogues beganne to skirmish with vs on both sides which was excellently maintained by some few of our men that we sent out We saw many of them killed and after vnderstood they lost a great number whereof many were horsemen of the best sort that had lighted to incourage their men to fight They were then so well beaten as they would neuer after offer to meddle with vs till our returne by Carlingford The ninth of Nouember the Fort being finished his Lordship called it Mount Norreys in honour of his Master so he tearmed him vnder whom hee had serued his apprentiship in the warres and he left therein foure hundred foot vnder the command of Captaine Edward Blaney with six weekes prouision of victuals The weather grew so extreame as it blew downe all our Tents and tore them in pieces and killed many of our horses so that the tenth day his Lordship putting all the Army in armes with all the Drummes and Trumpets and a great volly of shot proclaimed Tyrones head with promise of 2000. pound to him that brought him aliue and 1000. pound to him that brought him dead which was done in the face of his own army and so his Lordship marched to the Newry He had purposed to plant a garrison at Armagh 8. miles beyond Mount Norryes but the rebels Cowes had eaten vp all the grasse thereabouts which should haue fed our horses and the time of the yeere with the weather was now vnseasonable for that purpose And whereas his Lordship was resolued to returne into the Pale by Carlingford to discerne whether that way or the way of the Moyry were more safe that the army might not runne so continuall hazards this resolution was now confirmed by necessity there being victuals at Carlingford and none at the Newry or Dundalke The twelfth of Nouember his Lordship came with the army to the narrow water whence he sent Sir Iosias Bodley with three hundred choyce foot to possesse a peece of ground and keepe the enemy from hindering our passage ouer the water the streame whereof he found so exceeding swift that it was like to be dangerous to venture our horses ouer The first that tried was Doctor Latware his Lordships Chaplaine who only with his horse led by the boat side and with some thirty foot went ouer but his Lordship perceiued so great difficulty by his passage that he passed the foot ouer as fast as might be sent Sir Henry Folliot to possesse the pace of the Faddome and made all the Horse and our Garrons to goe about that way In the meane time wee might see the rebels forces draw ouer the mountaines towards the pace of Carlingford and come close by our men that were first landed yet they neuer offered any skermish That night we encamped directly ouer the narrow water betweene the pace of the faddome and the pace of Carlingford hauing at midnight gotten ouer for our men some vittels that came by water from Carlingford his Lordship caused the same to be deliuered before day for the Army had fasted two daies and after they had eaten but a little bisket and cheese or butter neuer men went on in a greater iollity The thirteenth of Nouember we were to rise very early for otherwise we could not passe our carriages by the sea side as we had determined and by breake of day the Scoutmaster brought word that Tyrone with all his army was lodged in the pace which is an exceeding thicke wood at the foote of a great mountaine reaching downe to the sea side betweene which and the sea there is in most places as much space as seuen may march in ranke but in some places lesse and in some none at full water but onely there is a narrow deepe high way through the wood Captaine Thomas Roper with the broken Companies sent out of the Pale went on as a forlone hope and that day by course it fell out that Captaine Beniamin Berry with the Lord Deputies Regiment vnder his command had the vanguard Sir Christopher S t Laurence had the reare of the vanguard Sir Richard Moryson had the vanguard of the Rere and Sir Samuell Bagnoll the reare of the reare so that we had but two bodies a vanguard and a rere thus subdiuided Captaine Treuor with as many as Captaine Roper had in the point led a forlorne rere Out of all the regiments his Lordship appointed three strong wings to goe on the right hand for on the left hand was the Sea commanded all by Captaines the first by Captaine Billings the second by Captaine Esmond and the last by Captaine Constable The ground the rebels chiesely chose to make good was a little Plaine like a semicircle whereof the Sea made the Diameter and a thicke Wood the Circumference At the next corner to vs there ran into the Sea a Riuer out of the wood being a Foard of good aduantage to the enemie All along the circumference they had made diuers trenches euen close vp to both the corners and at the furthest corner they had made a Barricado reaching a good way into the Wood and downe to the Sea At the first they shewed themselues horse and foote vpon this Plaine but when his Lordship commanded ours to giue on which they performed presently and roundly their horse drew off into the Woods and their foote into their trenches and neuer shot till the Vanguard was drawne ouer the Riuer when from all partes they powred vpon vs great vollyes of shot but presently Captaine Roper gaue on the farthest trench on the right hand of the corner Captaine Billings on the next with the wing hee led and Captaine Berry with the rest of the Vanguard gaue vpon the farthest corner where the Barricado reached from the Wood into the Sea In some of them they made good resistance and many of them lost their liues with the Pike and the Sword But the last trench where they made greatest shew of opposition they did soonest quit though it were strongest for them and to greatest purpose to arrest vs the reason his Lordship conceiued to be that in that place they were furthest from their retreat and feared the forlorne Hope and Wing led by Captaine Billings might cut betweene them When we had gained the trenches the Vanguard made a stand in the Rere of which to countenance them if there had been occasion his Lordship stood with a troope of horse of voluntarie Gentlemen and next to his Lordship betweene the Van and next bodies of foote Sir Henrie Dauers and his Lordships troopes of of horse At this time they entertained skermish with
any seruice with the horsemen Now his Lordship was purposed to scourge them and according to his singular secrecie did so keepe his Counsell from divulging and so cunningly masked his intent as he came vpon them when they were most secure It was confidently giuen out that his Lordship meant presently to vndertake some seruice against the O-Mores of Leax and Oconnors of Ophalia and to that purpose meant to lie with his houshold at Monastreuen a great house kept by a Constable for the Queen yea to make this proiect more beleeued his Lordship sent Arras hangings and many prouisions to that house And now the forces hauing beene refreshed his Lordship the twenty two of December being Monday rode to the Nasse twelue miles distant from Dublyn where the rendeuous was appointed that day for the Lemster Garrisons for it was fit those bordering on the North should be left strong On Wednesday his Lordship sent most of his houshold right forward to Monastreuen thirteene miles distant but himselfe with the rest of his seruants and the forces suddenly turned on the left hand into the Glinnes and after a day and nights tedious march ouer steepe mountaines couered with snow he arriued on Thursday being Christmas day at Phelim mac Feogh his house so suddenly as his wife and eldest sonne were taken and himselfe hardly escaped at a backe window and naked into the woods where he kept a cold Christmas while my Lord liued plentifully in his house with such prouisions as were made for him and his Bonnaghs and kerne to keepe a merry Christmas To vent his anger he daily offered slight skirmishes vpon aduantage but his heart was nothing eased therewith being continually beaten His Lordship with the Queenes Forces lay in this Countrey till about the twentieth of Ianuary In which time his troopes spoiled and ransacked the Countries of Rannelagh and Cashay swept away the most part of their cattle and goods burnt all their Corne and almost all their Houses leauing little or nothing to releeue them and to finish the worke his Lordship planted two strong Garrisons vpon them the one at Wicklo on the East side not able to come neerer because a ship with our tooles and instruments was beaten backe by ill weather and could not arriue in time the other at Tullogh vpon the west so as they could not long hold from submitting or flying being thus hedged in This done his Lordship came to Monastreuen with purpose to vndertake the Mores and Connors But hauing in few daies setled a correspondency for proceeding in that seruice betweene our Forces in those parts and the neighbouring septs of Odempsies and some suspected subiects of whose faith till then his Lordship stood not assured and discerning the Mores to be weake in Leax after the killing of their Chiefecashe Oway mac Rory and the burning and spoiling in the Leax iourney so as they had not meanes to keepe their Bonnaghs and hearing that the Oconnors were fled far from that part of Ophaly so as neither of them could be found to make resistance to any reasonable strong Forces His Lordship leauing in these parts some few Companies to assist the subiects rode from Monastreuen the twentie nine of Ianuary to Abiconal nine miles passing by the ruined City of Kildare now altogether disinhabited The thirtieth we passed the Liffye and came to Milhussy one Master Hussyes Castle eleuen miles passing by some pleasant Villages and by Menouth a faire house belonging to the Earles of Kildare now in the hands of the Countesse Mabell an old widdow The thirty one we came to Trym eight miles champion ground This is a pleasant towne for seate if the inhabitants were sutable through which the Boyne runnes and it hath the ruines of a sumptuous Castle This place his LP thought fittest for his present residence for if Captaine Tirrel now the chiefe rebel in Ophalia should draw his force to the South of the Country from hence his Lordship might easily fall back on him If the rebels in the West desired to passe into Mounster as they intended then our forces were so disposed as they could not escape without fighting with vs vpon diladuantage to them And if neither fell out then his Lordship purposed to plant a Garrison at the Cauan in the Brenny and to settle our aboue mentioned Mac Guire in Fermanagh At this time his LP desired to haue authoritie out of England to passe Tirconnel the Countie of Odonel to Neale Garue reseruing eight hundred Acres about Ballishannan and the fishing of the Erne to her Maiestie And such was the opinion of the seruice his turbulent spirit could doe the State as he had the grant of three hundred foot and one hundred horse in her Maiesties pay on condition he should bring the men seruiceable and maintaine them so without further charge to her Maiestie From Trym lying in East Meathe his Lordship the eleuenth of Februarie passing by the Barron of Trimblestones house rode to the Lord of Deluins house in West Meath eleuen miles distant The twelfth we passed ten miles further to Molingar the Shire towne of West Meath compassed with bogges Thence the fourteenth wee went to Ballymore Sir Frances Shanes house ten long miles The sixteenth to Sir Tibbot Dillons house seuen miles Thence the seuenteenth to Athlone fiue miles where the Gouernour of the Prouince of Connaght vseth to lye in a strong Castle belonging to her Maiestie which being scituate in Connaght is deuided from the Towne by a Riuer and a faire bridge of stone with eight arches lying in West Meath And all this Countrie is Champion whereof the greatest part lay waste His Lord returned back the eighteenth of February to Sir Tibbot Dillons house and the nineteenth to Danoar twelue miles being Brian Mac Gohagans Castle in West Meath While his Lordship lay in this Castle he rode forth the twentieth of February to view a strong hold seated in a plaine and in a little Iland compassed with bogges and deepe ditches of running water and thicke woods in which fastnesse Captaine Tirrel with some of the boldest Rebels then lay At the first approch to the bogge two shot of the Rebels came out our horsemen standing on a hill moued continually but my selfe being a raw souldier stood stil and because I had a white horse I gaue the Rebels a faire marke so as the first shot flew close by my head and when I apprehending my danger turned my horse the second flew through my cloake and light in my padde saddle which saued my life and brused my thigh Presently his Lordship seat Sir Christopher Saint Laurence Captaine Winsor Captaine Roper and Captaine Rotheram with wings of Foote into the Wood to discouer the fortified Iland And on the other side sent Captaine Leg to the same purpose While these skirmished with the rebels lying intrenched Master Darcy riding by the skirt of the Wood was shot in the neck The two and twenty day his Lordship drew forth againe
a wood beyond a Meadow on the other side of the Riuer and that with Trumpets and diuers colours some wonne at the old defeat of the English in those parts and with some Drummes rather for a bragging oftentation then otherwise since they fighting like theeues vpon dangerous passages vsed not to appeare in such warlike manner And from the trenches kept by the Rebels on the other side of the water some vollies of shot were powred vpon vs which sell downe on euery side dead on the ground by reason of the distance betweene vs and did small or no hurt We hauing a Rabinet a Falcon made from this hill some shot at the rebels troope farre distant whereupon their Puppits brauery suddenly vanished and according to their wonted manner they hidde themselues in the woods Presently the Lord Deputy sent three hundred foote to another hill on this side of the Riuer adioining to the old Fort lying beyond the water and his Lordship rode to that hil whom many voluntary Gentlemen with his seruants followed And in the way my selfe and some others lighted in a Valley to refiesh ourselues by walking but found an enemies soile no place for recreation for out of the Ditches Furrowes many shot were made at vs whereupon we tooke our horses one shot dangerously yet God be praised without hurt passing betweene my legges while one of my feete was in my stirrop and so we retyred to the grosse standing in more safetie Towards euening wee incamped vpon the aboue mentioned hil at which time wee saw faire off by a Wood side Tyrone draw some horse ouer to our side of the water either as we imagined to assayle Tirlogh Mac Henrie of the Fewes lately submitted and comming after vs to attend the Lord Deputie in this seruice or else to conferre with him and his companie but assoone as Sir William Godolphin Commander of the Lord Deputies troope of horse by his Lordships direction made towards Tyrone he with his horse presently retired backe That night we made Gabyons to enter the Rebels trenches and sent the Rabinet and Falcon to be planted on the other hill where our aboue mentioned three hundred foote lay All the night the rebels out of the trenches shot at our men while they were busie in working But the fourteenth day very early at the dawning of the day vpon our first discharging of the said great pieces charged with musket bullets and after some three vollies of our smal shot the rebels quitted their trenches basely running into the Woods and our three hundred men passing the Riuer vnder Captaine Thomas Williams his command possessed the trenches and the old ruined Fort with the Plaine in which it lay the Wood being almost musket shot distance whether the rebels were fled and had by night carried their hurt and slaine men Presently the Lord Deputie sent one Regiment to lye beyond the Blackwater vpon a hill where his Lordship had made choice to build a new Fort. Vpon view of the trenches made vpon euery Foard his Lordship found they were strongly and artificially fortified wondring much that either they should so laboriously fortifie them if they meant not to defend them of should so cowardly quit such strong places and so suddenly if they had former resolution to make them good In gaining them wee had some twentie men hurt and two slaine and they had greater losse especially in the going off though we could not truly know it The fifteenth day his Lordship with a troope of horse and foure hundred foote drew towards Tyrones Wood and viewed the paces in the sight of the rebels who ran away with their cowes onely at his Lordships retrait making some few shot at our men but hurting not one man In the euening Captaine Treuer and Captaine Constable with their Companies came to the Campe sent thither from Lecayle to strengthen the Army according to his Lordships direction to Sir Rechard Moryson after the Countrie was all taken in and Mac Gennis the greatest neighbor Rebel had submitted himselfe The 16 day the L Deputy drew out a Regiment of Irish commanded by Sir Christo. St. Laurence and passing the Blackwater marched to Benburb the old house of Shane O Neale lying on the left hand of our Campe at the entrance of great woods There our men made a stand in a faire greene meadow hauing our camp and the plaines behind them the wood on both sides before them The rebels drew in great multitudes to these woods Here we in the Campe being ourselues in safety had the pleasure to haue the ful view of an hot and long skirmish our loose wings sometimes beating the rebels on all sides into the Woods and sometimes being driuen by them back to our Colours in the middest of the meadow where assoone as our horse charged the rebels presently ran backe and this skirmish continuing with like varietie some three howers for the Lord Deputie as he saw the numbers of the rebels increase so drew other Regiments out of the Campe to second the fight So that at last the Rebell had drawne all his men together and we had none but the by-Guards left to saue-guard the Campe all the rest being drawne out Doctor Latwar the Lord Deputies Chaplaine not content to see the fight with vs in safetie but as he had formerly done affecting some singularitie of forwardnesse more then his place required had passed into the meadow where our Colours stood and there was mortally wounded with a bullet in the head vpon which hee died the next day Of the English not one more was slaine onely Captaine Thomas Williams his legge was broken and two other hurt but of the Irish on our side twenty sixe were slaine and seuenty fiue were hurt And those Irish being such as had been rebels and were like vpon the least discontent to turne rebels and such as were kept in pay rather to keepe them from taking part with the rebels then any seruice they could doe vs the death of those vnpeaceable sword-men though falling on our side yet was rather gaine then losse to the Common-wealth Among the rebels Tyrones Secretary and one chiefe man of the Ohagans and as we credibly heard farre more then two hundred Kerne were slaine And lest the disparitie of losses often mentioned by me should sauour of a partiall pen the Reader must know that besides the fortune of the warre turned on our side together with the courage of the rebels abated and our men heartned by successes we had plentie of powder and sparing not to shoote at randome might well kill many more of them then they ill furnished of powder and commanded to spare it could kill of ours These two last dayes our Pioners had been busied in fortifying and building a new Fort at Blackwater not farre distant from the old Fort demolished by the rebels and for some daies following his Lordship specially intended the furtherance and finishing of this worke so as
to serue in forraigne war then to liue by infamous courses at home In Poland the Gentlemen are most prone to quarrels cum bats and murthers especially if they be heated with drink as many times they are and that because of the vnfit priuiledges they haue aboue others and because they haue power of life and death in their owne Territories neither can be called in question for criminall matters but in the publike Parliament held once in three yeeres or there abouts where they are also tried by Gentlemen who for consanguinity friendship or the common cause are like to be fauourable to them And they care not greatly vpon what vnequall termes they offer violence nor how many they be that set vpon their aduersarie Some Gentlemen who haue been in forraine parts are much more ciuill then the rest but in generall there is no place where a stranger ought more to auoid quarrels especially if hee stand not vpon equall termes as not hauing one or more Gentlemen on his part In the meane time all that can here offer violence being Gentlemen to whom the rest are slaues either for feare of infamy or for the aboundance they haue of all things for life robbers by the highway are very rare in Poland and a passenger may safely carry ready money about him especially if he conceale it It were in vaine to giue any precepts for quarrels in Turkey where a Christian not onely may not quarrell but not so much as carry a sword no nor looke a Turke in the face without a Bastinado For the Turkes among themselues they seldome or neuer fight a combate The Citizens and men of inferiour degrees stand in as humble awe of their souldiers as the Christians doe of them neither dare lift vp the head or hand against a common Souldier though they were one hundred against one And the Souldiers howsoeuer they brawle among themselues like butter-wiues yet they neuer strike one another the Lawes being most seuere in the punishment thereof Theeues are lesse to be feared there because passengers neither goe nor ride alone but in Carauanes that is a multitude of men and loaded Cammels yet the Christians commended to the protection of those that leade the Carauans not onely by friends but by bribes and chancing to meet by the way any Ianizaries shal be forced to giue them such victuals as they carry especially wine except they haue a Ianizary to protect them whereof one will serue to defend them against the iniuries of a thousand chancing to meet them but they seldome doe the Christian passengers any other wrong then this consuming of their prouisions Howsoeuer in all euents I would aduise no Christian of the better sort hauing meanes for fit expences to goe any iourney without a Ianizarie to protect him especially since at Constantinople from one Christian Ambassadour or other he may easily obtaine a Ianizaric to attend him faithfully and at a very easie rate At which Citie it is most fit for a Christian to begin his iourney into other parts of Turkie Howsoeuer hee may likewise obtaine such a Ianizaric of some Christian Consull either at Halepo in spria or at Cayro called also Babilon in Egipt and at other frequented places vpon the Sea const And this Ianizaric for some eight Aspers a day wages will faithfully helpe the Christian of whom hee is hired not as a companion but rather as a free kinde of seruant Englishmen especially being young and vnexperienced are apt to take all things in snuffe Of olde when they were senced with Bucklers as with a Rampier nothing was more common with them then to fight about taking the right or left hand or the wall or vpon any vnpleasing countenance Clashing of swords was then daily musicke in euery streete and they did notionely fight combats but cared not to set vpon their Enemie vpon aduantages and vnequall termes But at this day when no nation labours more then the English as well by trauailing into fortaine Kingdomes as by the studie of good letters and by other meanes to enrich their mindes with all vertues I say in these dayes they scorne such men and esteeme them of an idle braine who for ridiculous or trifling causes runne the triall of single fight and howsoeuer they behaue themselues stoutly therein yet they repute them to haue lost as much opinion of wisedome as they haue gayned of daring Much more doe they despise them who quarrell and fight in the streetes publiquely and doe not rather make priuate triall of their difference as also those who make quarrels with men of base condition yea they thinke them in famous who with disparity of number doe many assaile one man and for this beastly quality comparing them to Hogges whereof when one grunts all the Heard comes to helpe him they thinke them worthie of any punishment besides that vpon killing any man mercie is seldome or neuer shewed them howsoeuer in other faire combats the Princes mercie hath many times giuen life to the man-slayer And the cause why single fights are more rare in England in these times is the dangerous fight at single Rapier together with the confiscation of man-slayers goods So as I am of opinion contrarie to the vulgar and think them worthie of praise who inuented dangerous weapons as Rapiets Pistols Gunnes and Gunpowder since the inuention whereof much smaller nomber of men hath perished by single fights or open warre then in former times and conquests and such inundations of barbarous people as were those of the Gothes Hunnes and Longobards are much lesse to bee feared Nothing did in olde time more animate strong Tyrants and Gyants to oppresse weaker men then the huge waight of their Clubs and of their armes where with Goliah had easily quelled Dauid if God had not put in his minde to fight against him with a new kinde of weapon more suteable to his strength I returne to the purpose and doe freely professe that in case of single fights in England the Magistrate doth fauour a wronged stranger more then one of the same Nation howsoeuer the Law fauours neither and that a stranger so fighting neede feare no treason by any disparitie or otherwise But in the meane time here in all places happy are the peaceable Let me adde one thing of corrupt custome in England that those who are not gowne men neuer haue the opinion of valour till in their youth they haue gayned it with some single fight which done they shall after liue more free from quarrels But it were to be wished that a better way were found to preserue reputation then this of single fights aswell contrary to the Law of God as a capitall crime by the Lawes of men Theeues in England are more common then in any other place so farre as I haue obserued or heard but hauing taken purses by the high way they seldome or neuer kill those they rob The true man hauing strength armes and courage may cheerefully resist
subiects of the Electors shall not bee bound to answere the Law out of their owne Prouince nor may appeale to any Court but their Lords except Iustice bee denied in which case they shall onely appeale to the Chamber of the Empire That the Electors shall meete in some Citie once in the yeare where they shall haue no feasting to the end that the causes may be heard with more expedition That the priuiledges of Cities and Vniuersities in any thing derogating from the right of the Electors shall be reuoked and made voide notwithstanding the Letters Pattents may except all eminency of persons That the resignation of fees except they be personally made shall make the vassals infamous in denouncing enmity to their Lords That conuenticles of Cities made to the preiudice of their Lords shall be punished with losse of fame goods and priuiledges That no Citizens subiects to Princes and incorporating themselues in free Cities shall enioy the priuiledges thereof except they dwell there vnder a great penalty to bee imposed on the City receiuing them with any other condition That the Fees of the Electors or Officers of the Empire shall not be deuided by their heires That they who conspire the death of any Elector shall be guilty of treason and their sonnes depriued of their Inheritance euen from the mothers side shall liue infamous and they shall be noted who make intercession to restore them to grace but that the Daughters lesse daring for the weakenesse of the sexe shall haue part of the inheritance and that no enfranchisement of sonnes or alienation of goods shall frustrate this Law That all accessaries shall be so punished onely he that bewrayes the conspiracy may bee held worthy of pardon Also this penalty shall be of force against those that are dead if the crime be not knowne till after their death In solemne Court that the Emperour shall sit in his throne and the Duke of Saxony laying an heape of Oates as high as his Horses saddle before the Court gate shall with a siluer measure of twelue markes price deliuer Oates to the cheefe Quirry of the stable and then sticking his staffe in the Oates shall depart and the Vice-Marshall shall distribute the rest of the Oates That the three Archbishops shall say grace at the Emperours Table and he of them who is Chancelor of the place shall lay reuerently the Seales before the Emperor which the Emperor shal restore to him that the staffe of the Chancelorship shal be worth 12 marks of siluer That the Marquis of Brandeburg sitting vpon his Horse with a siluer basen of 12 marks weight a towel shall light from his Horse giue water to the Emperor That the Count Palatine sitting vpon his Horse with foure dishes of Siluer with meate each dish worth 3 markes shall light and set the dishes on the table That the King of Bohemia sitting vpon his Horse with a siluer Cup worth twelue markes filled with water and wine shall light and giue it the Emperour to drinke The Gentleman of Falkenstein vnder-Chamberlaine the Gentleman of Norsemberg Master of the Kitchen and the Gentleman of Limburch Vice-Buttler or in their absence the ordinary Officers of the Court shall haue the said Horses Bason dishes Cup Staffe and measure and shall after wait at the Emperours table That the Emperours table bee sixe foote higher then any other table where he shall sit alone and the table of the Empresse shall be by his side three foote lower The Electors tables shall be three foote lower then that of the Empresse and all of equall heighth and three of them shall bee on the Emperours right hand three on his left hand and one before his face and each shal sit alone at his table When one Elector hath done his Office he shall goe and stand at his owne table and so in order the rest till all haue performed their Offices and then all seuen shall sit downe at one time The Emperour shall be chosen at Franckfort crowned at Aquisgranum vulgarly called Ach and shall hold his first Court at Nurnberg except there be some lawfull impediment The Deputy of an Elector absent howsoeuer he hath his voyce in chusing the Emperour yet at the said feast shall not sit at the Electors table Princes receiuing their fees shall pay sixtie markes to the Officers of the Court excepting the Electors who are not bound to giue any thing but of free will since the Officers are their Substitutes and the Horse vpon which the Prince sits when hee is inuested in his fees shall bee giuen to the Marshall or to the Vice-Marshall The Electors are presumed to bee Germans and their sonnes at the age of seuen yeares shall bee taught the Grammer and the Italian and Selauonian tongues so as at 14 yeares age they may be skilfull therein and be worthy Assessors to the Emperor These things for this purpose taken out of the Golden Bulla shall suffice Touching the present generall estate of the Empire The Emperor his brethren were not much esteemed among their owne subiects and had little or no authority in the rest of the Empire The Germans confesse that the House of Austria is most fit to beare the burthen of the Empire especially since no stranger may be Emperour the Law binding to choose a Prince borne in Germany and because the Empire hath no principality belonging to it nor any certaine reuenues but onely some accustomed Subsidies which vpon some occasions were of old granted by Parliament these occasions being taken away the subsidies for them haue also in latter times beene discontinued so that the common affaires are to be administred with the charge of the Emperours priuate inheritance And lastly because they iustly feare if any other Prince of Germany should be chosen Emperour that the House of Austria hauing in a long line succeeded in the Empire and possessing large Dominions by inheritance would either altogether separate it selfe from the Empire or at least their inheritance in Hungary Germany and Bohemia through mutuall dissentions betweene them and the Emperour would be a prey to the Turkish Tyrant onely kept backe by the House of Austria according to the weake meanes it hath from inuading Germany at this day But when the Germans doe particularly obserue the persons of the Princes of the House of Austria they iudge againe none more vnfit to beare vp the Empire and to defend it from the Turkes inuasions and this common diffidence is infinitely encreased by the mutuall iealousies of Germany There want not iealousies in the House of Austria betweene themselues were they not forced to compound them by feare of the Turkes In generall the Gentlemen feare the conspiracy of the common people lest after the example of the Sweitzers they should roote out the Gentry or at least yeeld either none or voluntary obedience at their owne pleasure The Princes feare the free Cities so as they dare not exact absolute obedience of the