Plate 4. with the handle towards their left hand and the end of the Saw to the right then with a three-square File they begin at the left hand end leaning harder upon the side of the file on the right hand than on that side to the left hand so that they file the upperside of the Tooth of the Saw a-slope towards the right hand and the underside of the Tooth a little a-slope towards the left or almost down-right Having filed one Tooth thus all the rest must be so filed Then with the Saw-wrest marked O. in Plate 4. they set the Teeth of the Saw that is they put one of the Notches marked a a a of the Wrest between the first two Teeth on the Blade of the Saw and then turn the Handle Horizontally a little about upon the Notch towards the end of the Saw and that at once turns the first Tooth somewhat towards you and the second Tooth from you Then skipping two Tooth they again put one of the notches of the Wrest between the third and fourth Teeth on the Blade of the Saw and then as before turn the Handle a little about upon the notch towards the end of the Saw and that turns the third Tooth somewhat towards you and the Fourth somewhat from you Thus you must skip two Teeth at a time and turn the Wrest till all the Teeth of the Saw are set This Setting of the Teeth of the Saw as Workmen call it is to make the Kerf wide enough for the Back to follow the edge and is Set Ranker for soft course cheap Stuff than for hard fine and costly Stuff for the Ranker the Tooth is set the more Stuff is wasted in the Kerf and besides if the Stuff be hard it will require greater labour to tear away a great deal of hard Stuff than it will do to tear away but a little of the same Stuff The Pit-Saw is Set so Rank for course stuff as to make a Kerf of almost a quarter of an Inch but for fine and costly stuff they set it finer to save Stuff The Whip-Saw is set somewhat finer than the Pit-Saw the Hand-Saw and the Compass-Saw finer than the Whip-Saw But the Tennant-Saw Frame-saw and the Bow-Saw c. are set fine and have their Teeth but very little turned over the sides of their Blades So that a Kerf made by them is seldom above half a half quarter of an Inch. The reason why the Teeth are filed to an Angle pointing towards the end of the Saw and not towards the handle of the Saw or directly straight between the handle and end of the Saw is Because the Saw is designed to cut only in its progess forwards Man having in that activity more strength to rid and Command of his hands to guide his Work than he can have in drawing back his Saw and therefore when he draws back his Saw the Work-men bears it lightly off the unsawn Stuff which is an case to is labour and enables him the longer to continue his several Progressions of the Saw Master-Workmen when they direct any of their Underlins to saw such a piece of Stuff have several Phrases for the sawing of it They seldom say Saw that piece of Stuff But Draw the Saw through it Give that piece of Stuff a kerf Lay a kerf in that piece of Stuff and sometimes but most unproperly Cut or Slit that piece of stuff For the Saw cannot properly be said to cut or slit the Stuff but it rather breaks or tears away such parts of the Stuff from the whole as the points of the Teeth prick into and these parts it so tears away are proportionable to the fineness or rankness of the Setting of the Teeth The Excellency of Sawing is to keep the kerf exactly in the line marked out to be Sawn without wriggling on either or both sides And straight through the Stuff as Work-men call it that is in a Geometrical Term perpendicularly through the upper and underside if your Work require it as most work does But if your work be to be Sawn upon a Bevil as some work sometimes is then you are to observe that Bevil all the length of the Stuff c. § 27. The Use of the Pit-Taw marked M. in Plate 4. The Pit-Saw is not only used by those Work-men that make Sawing Timber and Boards their whole business but is also for small matters used by Joyners when what they have to do may perhaps be as soon done at home as they can carry or send it to the Sawyers The manner of their working is both alike for if it be a Board they would slit off a piece of Timber or if they would take any square Quarter or Batten c. off they first set off their Scantlin For Example If it be an Inch or more or less they would take off a piece of Stuff they open the points of their Compasses to an Inch measure on their Rule and so much more as they reckon the kerf of the Saw will make and from on side of their Stuff they set off at either end of the Stuff the Distance of the points of their Compasses at this Distance therefore they make with the points of their Compasses a prick at either end of the Stuff Then with Chaulk they whiten a line by rubbing the Chaulk pretty hard upon it Then one holds the line at one end upon the prick made there and the other strains the line pretty stiff upon the prick at the other end then whilst the line is thus strain'd one of them between his Finger and Thumb draws the middle of the line directly upright to a convenient height that it may spring hard enough down and then lets it go again so that it swiftly applies to its first position and strikes so strongly against the Stuff that the dust or attoms of the Chaulk that were rubbed into the Line shake out of it and remain upon the Stuff And thus also they mark the under-side of their Stuff This is called Lining of the Stuff And the Stuff cut into those lines shall be called Inch-Stuff because the Compasses that prickt the Stuff were opened wider by the width of the kerf than an Inch measure upon the Rule But had the Compasses been opened but an Inch exactly that piece Sawn off should in Workmen's Language have been called Inch-prickt thereby giving to understand that it is half the breadth of the kerf thinner than an Inch And thus they call all other Scantlins 2 Inches 2 ½ Inches 3 Inches c. Sawn or Prickt When two Work-men are not at hand to hold the line at both ends he that lines it strikes one point of his Compass or sometimes a Pricker or a Nale aslope towards that end into the prick set off and putting the noose at the end of his line over his Compasses c. goes to the other end and strains his line on that prick and strikes it as before The Stuff being thus lined
Bevil marked F having its Tongue movable upon a Center may be set to strike Angles of any greater or lesser numbers of Degrees according as you open the Tongue wider from or shut it closer to the Handle It is used as the Square and the Miter and will perform the Offices of them both though it be not purposely made for either but for the striking such Bevil lines as one part of your work must be cut away to to make it join with another part of your work For Example We will propose to make a Frame for a Picture Looking-Glass c. containing eight straight Sides You may quickly perceive that all the ends of these eight sides must be cut to Bevils and what Bevils they must be you will find if you describe upon a smooth flat Board a Circle of any bigness but the larger the better Divide this Circle into eight equal parts and from every point draw a Line to the Center Draw also straight lines from every point to its next point Then lay the inside of the Handle of your Bevil exactly upon any one of these straight lines so as the Angle made by the inside of the Handle and the inside of the Tongue lie exactly at the very Angle made by this straight line and the Semi-Diametral line proceeding from the Center and move the Tongue nearer or farther off the Handle till the inside of the Tongue and the inside of the Handle lie exactly upon those two lines so shall your Bevil be set Then having fitted your Pieces to your Seantling Stick your Pricker as near the outward Corner of your Pieces as your stuff will bear and apply the inside of your handle also to the outer sides of your Pieces and so as the inside of the Tongue may be drawn home to the Pricker For then lines drawn on those Pieces by the inside of the Tongue shall be the lines the Pieces must be cut in to make these eight Pieces join evenly together by the sides of each other 's Bevil Then with the Strike-block smooth the ends of the Bevils as you were taught in the Section of the Strike-Block If you have a Board on the Back-side of this Frame you may Glew the backsides of these Pieces piece by piece to the Board but first you must fit them to an exact compliance of every Bevil with its Match and when they are so fitted drive two Nails close to the outside of every piece but drive not the Nails deep into the Board because when the Frame is set and Glewed or otherwise fastned you must draw the Nails out again For these Nails are only intended to serve for Fences to set and sit each piece into its proper place before the whole Frame is fastned together And should you not thus Fence them though by your Eye you might judge you fitted the Bevils exactly yet one piece being never so little out of its due position would drive the next piece more out and that the next till at the last the last piece would not join but either be too short or too long or stand too much out or in or else too open or too close on the out or inside But if you have no Board on the backside you must when you Saw the Bevilling Angles upon the square ends of pieces not sawn quite through the depth of one end of every piece but about half way through the depth or thickness and then with your Chissel either split or else pare the upper side of the square end flat away to the Bevil and so leave part of of the square end of your piece to lap under the piece is joined to For Example In Fig. 3. Plate 5. ab is the square end of the piece and bc is the Bevil you work the piece to Therefore you must work away so much of the thickness of the square end as is comprehended between a and c so that you will see the Triangle abc is to be wrought away half way down the thickness of the Stuff and so will the Triangle abc be left for the other half thickness of the Stuff But that end of the piece mark'd 1 which joins to the piece mark'd 2 must upon its Bevil-stroak be sawn quite off and its underside must have the same Triangle wrought into it just so fit as to receive the Triangle in piece 2 and just so deep as that when the Triangle on piece 2 is fitted into the Triangle in piece 1 the Superficies of both the pieces may be even with one another And thus you may lap the ends of every piece into one another These Triangles at the ends of the pieces you may Glew into one another but if you think Glewing alone not strong enough you may Pierce an hole near the inner edge of the Frame because the Triangle hath there most substance of stuff and afterwards Pin it as you are taught to Pin the Rail and Stile together in Sect. 17. This way of Lapping over is sometimes used also for square Miters or other Angular Frames § 20. Of the Miter-Box There is another way used by Joyners that make many Frames to save themselves the labour of Drawing or striking out of Squares Miters and several Bevils upon their Stuff And this is with a Tool called a Mitter-Box described in Plate 5. Fig. 2. It is composed of two pieces of Wood of an Inch thick each as A the upright piece B the Bottom piece The Upright piece is nailed upright fast upon the Bottom-Piece And this Upright-piece hath on its upper side the Miter Lines struck with the Miter square as de on the left hand and gh on the right hand on these two Miter lines the edge of the Saw is set and a kerf made straight down the upright piece as from d e on the left hand to f and from gh on the right hand to i. In like manner any other Bevil is struck upon the upper side of the upright piece with the Bevil as kl on the left hand and no on the right On these two Bevil lines the edge of the Saw is set and a kerf made straight down the upright piece as from k to lm and from g h to i. You may make as many Bevils as you please on the upright piece of the Miter Box Bevils to join Frames of either five six seven eight sides c. and the manner to make them to any number of sides was in part taught in the last Section For as there you were directed to divide the Circle into eight equal parts because eight was the number of sides we proposed to make that Frame consist of So if for any number of sides you divide the Circle into the same equal parts and work as you were there directed you may find what Bevil the Pieces must have that make a Frame that consists of any number of sides So also for Sawing of any Batten or other small pieces square Strike at the
square strong Worm D the Nut or Screw Box hath also a square Worm and is brazed into the round Box. E the Spring must be made of good Steel and very well temper'd Where note that the wider the two ends of the Spring stand asunder the wider it throws the Chaps of the Vice open F the Foot must be straight and therefore will be the stronger to bear good heavy Blows upon the work screwed in the Chaps of the Vice that it neither bow or tremble Of the Hand-Vice OF the Hand-Vice are two Sorts one is called the Bread Chapt Hand-Vice the other the Squar Nos'd Hand-Vice The Office of the Hand-Vice is to hold small work in that may require often turning about it is held in the left hand and each part of your work turned upwards successively that you have occasion to file with your right The Square-nos'd Hand-Vice is seldom used but for filing small Globulous Work as the Heads of Pins that round off towards the Edges c. And that because the Chaps do not stand shouldering in the way but that the flat of the File may the better come at the Edges Their Chaps must be cut as the Vice aforesaid and well tempered Of the Plyers PLyers are of two Sorts Flat Nos'd and Round Nos'd Their Office is to hold and fasten upon all small work and to fit it in its place The Round Nos'd Plyers are used for turning or bowing Wyer or small Plate into a circular Form The Chaps of the Flat Nos'd Plyers must also be cut and temper'd as the Chaps of the Vice A the Nose B the Chaps C the Joint DD the Handles Of the Drill and Drill-Bow DRills are used for the making such Holes as Punches will not conveniently serve for as a piece of work that hath already its Shape and must have an hole or more made in it Hore the force of a Punch will set your work out of order and shape because it will both batter the Surface of the Iron and stretch its Sides out The shank of a Key also or some such long Hole the Punch cannot strike because the Shank is not forged with substance sufficient but the Drill tho' your work be filed and polish'd never batters or stretches it but cuts a ture round Hole just in the point you first place it You must have several Sizes of Drills according as your work may require The shape in Fig. 8. is enough to shew the Fashion of it but it must be made of good Steel and well tempered A the Point AB the Shank C the Drill-barrel Where note that the bigger the Drill-barrel is the easier it runs about but less swift And as you must be provided with several Drills so you may sometimes require more than one Drill-bow or at least several Drill-strings the strongest Strings for the largest Drills and the smallest Strings for the smallest Drills But you must remember that whether you use a small or strong String you keep your Drill-bow straining your String pretty stiff or lese your String will not carry your Barrel briskly about But your String and Bow must both be accommodated to the Size of your Drill and if both or either be too strong they will break or bend your Drill or if too weak they will not carry about the Barrel as aforesaid The Drill-Plate or Breast-plate is only a piece of flat Iron fixt upon a flat Board which Iron hath an hole punched a little way into it to set the blunt end of the Shank of the Drill in when you drill a hole Workmen instead of it many times use the Hammer into which they prick a hole a little way on the side of it and so set the Hammer against their Breast Of the Screw-Plate and its Taps THE Screw-Plate is a Plate of Steel well temper'd with several holes in it each less than other and in those Holes are Threds groved inwards into which Groves fit the respective Taps that belong to them The Taps that belong to them are commonly made tapering towards the Point as Fig. 7. shews But these tapering Taps will not serve for some sorts of works as I shall shew in its proper place These are the most Essential Tools used in the Black-Smith's Trade but some accidental work may require some accidental Tools which as they may fall in I shall give you an account of in convenient place Of Forging in general I Think it needless to tell you how to make your Fire or blow it because they are both but Labourer's work nor how little or big it need to be for your own Reason will by the Size of your work teach you that only let me tell you the Phrase Smith's use for Make the Fire is Blow up the Fire or sometimes Blow up the Coals When it is burning with the Iron in it you must with the Slice clap the Coals upon the out-side close together to keep the heat in the body of the Fire and as oft as you find the Fire begin to break out clap them close again and with the Washer dipt in Water wet the outside of the Fire to damp the out-side as well to save Coals as to strike the force of the Fire into the in-side that your work may heat the sooner But you ought oft to draw your work a little way out of the Fire to see how it takes its Heat and quickly thrust it in again if it be not hot enough For each purpose your work is designed to ought to have a proper Heat suitable to that purpose as I shall shew you in the several Heats of Iron For if it be too cold it will not feel the weight of the Hammer as Smiths say when it will not batter under the Hammer and if it be too hot it will Red-sear that is break or crack under the Hammer while it is working between hot and cold Of the several Heats Smiths take of their Iron THere are several degrees of Heats Smiths take of their Iron each according to the purpose of their work As first a Blood-red Heat Secondly a White Flame Heat Thirdly a Sparkling or Welding Heat The Blood-red Heat is used when Iron hath already its form and size as sometimes square Bars and Iron Plates c. have but may want a little Hammering to smooth it Use then the Face of your Hand-hammer and with light flat Blows hammer down the irregular Risings into the Body of your Iron till it be smooth enough for the File And note that it behoves a good Workman to Hammer his Work as true as he can for one quarter of an hour spent at the Forge may save him an hours work at the Vice The Flame or White Heat is used when your Iron hath not its Form or Size but must be forged into both and then you must take a piece of Iron thick enough and with the Pen of your Hammer or sometimes according to the size of your work use two or three
you can upon the length of your work for so shall the File enter upon the second Rising on your work before it goes off the first and will slip over and not touch the dent or hollow between the two Risings till your Risings are brought into a straight line with your hollow dent But of this more shall be said when I come to the Practice of Filing upon several particular sorts of work If it be a Square Bar or such like you are to file upon all its Angles or Edges must be left very sharp and straight Therefore your Vice being well set up according to fore-going Directions you must in your filing athwart over the Chaps of the Vice be sure to carry both your hands you hold the file in truly Horizontal or flat over the Work for should you let either of your hands mount the other would dip and the edge of that Square it dips upon would be taken off and should you let your hand move never so little circularly both the Edges you file upon would be taken off and the Middle of your intended Flat would be left with a Rising on it But this Hand-craft you must attain to by Practice for it is the great Curiosity in Filing If it be a round Piece or Rod of Iron you are to file upon what you were forbid upon Square Work you must perform on the Round for you must dip your Handle-hand and mount your end-hand a little and laying pritting near the end of your File to the Work file circularly upon the Work by mounting your handle-Handle-hand by degrees and dipping your End-hand in such manner as when the Middle of your File comes about the top of your Work your File may be flat upon it and as you continue your stroaks forwards still keep your hands moving circularly till you have finished your full Stroak that is a Stroak the whole length of the File By this manner of Circular filing you keep your Piece or Rod round but should you file flat upon the top of your work so many times as you shall remove or turn your work in the Vice so many Flats or Squares you would have in your work which is contrary to your purpose When you thrust your File forwards lean heavy upon on it because the Teeth of the File are made to cut forwards but when you draw your File back to recover an other thrust lift or bear the File lightly just above the work for it cuts not coming back Thus much of FILING in General MECHANICK EXERCISES OR THE DOCTRINE OF HANDY-WORKS By Joseph Moxon late Member of the Royal Society and Hydographer to King Charles II. LONDON Printed and Sold by J. Moxon 1693. MECHANICK EXERCISES OR The Doctrine of Handy-Works Applied to the making of Hinges Locks Keys Screws and Nuts Small and Great Of Hinges IN Fig. 1. A the Tail B the Cross CDDDDE the Joint DDDD the Pin-hole When the Joint at C on the Tail is pin'd in the Joint at E in the Cross the whole Hinge is called a Cross-Garnet Hinges if they be small as for Cup-board doors Boxes c. are cut out of cold Plate Iron with the a Cold-Chissel but you must mark the out-lines of your intended Hinge as Fig. 1. the Cross-Garnet either with Chalk or else rase upon the Plate with the corner of the Cold-Chissel or any other hardned Steel that will scratch a bright stroke upon the Plate and then laying the Plate flat upon the Anvil if the Plate be large or upon the b Stake if the Plate be small take the Cold-Chissel in your left hand and set the edge of it upon that Mark or Rase and with the Hand-hammer in your right hand strike upon the head of the Cold-Chissel till you cut or rather punch the edge of the Cold-Chissel almost thro' the Plate in that Place I say almost through because should you strike it quite through the edge of the Cold-Chissel would be in danger of battering or else breaking for the Face of the Anvil is hardned Steel and a light blow upon its Face would wrong the edge of the Cold-Chissel besides it sometimes happens that the Anvil or Stake is not all over so hard as it should be and then the Cold-Chissel would cut the Face of the Anvil or Stake and consequently spoil it Therefore when the edge of the Cold-Chissel comes pretty near the bottom of the Plate you must lay but light blows upon the cold Chissel and yet you must strike the edge of the Cold-Chissel so near through the bottom of the Plate that you may break the remaining substance asunder with your Fingers or with a pair of Plyers or sometimes by pinching the Plate in the Vice with the Cut place close to the Superficies of the Chaps of the Vice and then with your Fingers and Thumb or your whole hand wriggle it quite asunder But having cut one breadth of the Cold-Chissel remove the edge of it forward in the Rase and cut another breadth and so move it successively till your whole intended shape be cut out of the Plate When you cut out an Hinge you must leave on the length of the Plate AB in this Figure Plate enough to lap over for the Joints I mean to Turn or Double about a round Pin so big as you intend the Pin of your Hinge shall be and also Plate enough to Weld upon the inside of the Hinge below the Pin-hole of the Joint that the Joint may be strong Afterwards with a Punch of hardned Steel as you were taught Numb I. fol. 11. 12. Punch the Nail-holes in the Plate or if your Plate be very thin you may Punch them with a â— cold Punch After all smooth it as well as you can with your Hand-hammer take a Blood-red Heat if your Work require it if not smooth it cold so shall the Tail-piece be fit for the Pile Double and Weld the Cross-piece as you did the Tail-piece Having forg'd your Hinge fit for the File you must proceed to make the Joint by cutting a notch in the middle of the Pin-hole between DD in Plate 2. on the Cross as at E and you must cut down the ends of the Pin-hole on the Tail-piece as at DD till the Joint at C fit exactly into the notch in the Cross and that when the Pin is put into the Pin-hole DD on the Cross the Pin-hole in the Tail-piece may also receive the Pin then by holding the Tail-piece in one hand and the Cross in the other double the Tail and Cross towards one another to try if they move evenly and smoothly without shaking on the Pin which if they do the Joint is made if they do not you must examine where the Fault is and taking the Pin out mend the fault in the Joint Then File down all the irregularities the Cold-Chissel made on the edges of your Work and if the curiosity of work require it file also the outer flat of your work But Smiths
or Bar just above the Sholder makes the Head and for that I did not mention it there I thought fit since the purpose required it to do it here The Forging of the Nuts are taught before Numb I. Fol. 11 12. Having forged and filed your Shank square and the Head either square or round as you intend it shall be file also the Screw-pin from the risings and dents left at the Forge and file it a little tapering towards the end that it may enter the Screw-plate the Rule how much it must be Tapering is this consider how deep the Inner Grooves of the Screw-plate lie in the outer Threds and file the end of the Screw-pin so much smaller than the rest of the Screw-pin for the outer Threds of the Screw-plate must make the Grooves on the Screw-pin and the Grooves in the Screw-plate will make the Threds on the Screw-pin Having fitted your self with a hole in your Screw-plate that is such a hole whose Diameter of the hollow Grooves shall be equal to the Diameter of the Screw-pin but not such an hole whose Diameter of the outer Threds shall be equal to the Diameter of the Screw-pin for then the Screw-plate will indeed turn about the Screw-pin but not cut any Grooves or Threds in it screw the Shank with the Head down-wards in the Vice so as that the Screw-pin may stand directly upright and take the handle of the Screw-plate in your right-Right-hand and lay that hole flat upon the Screw-pin and press it pretty hard down over it and turn the Screw-plate evenly about with its handle towards you from the Right towards the Left-hand so shall the outer Threds of the Srew-plate cut Grooves into the Screw-pin and the substance of the Iron on the Screw-pin will fill up the Grooves of the Screw-plate and be a Thred upon the Screw-pin But take this for Caution that as I told you you must not make your Screw-pin too small because the Screw-plate will not then cut it so if you make it too big if it do enter the Screw-plate where it is Taper it will endanger the breaking it or if it do not break it yet the Screw-plate will after it gets a little below the Tapering go no farther but work and wear off the Thred again it made about the tapering To fit the Pin therefore to a true size I in my Practise use to try into what hole of the Screw-plate the Tap or place of the Tap if it be a tapering Tap I make the Nut with will just slide through Threds and all which generally in most Screw-plates is the hole next above that to be used for then turning my Pin about in that hole if the Pin be irregularly filed or but a little too big on any part of it the Threds of that Hole will cut small marks upon the Pin on the irregular places or where it is too big so that afterwards filing those marks just off I do at once file my Pin truly round and small enough to fit the Hole I make my Screw-pin with As the Hole of the Screw-plate must be fitted to the Screw-pin so must the Screw-tap that makes the Screw in the Nut be fitted to the round hole of the Nut but that Tap must be of the same size of your Screw-pin too which you may try by the same hole of the Screw-plate you made the Screw-pin with Screw the Nut in the Vice directly flat that the hole may stand upright and put the Screw-tap upright into the hole then if your Screw-tap have an handle turn it by the handle hard round in the Hole so will the Screw-tap work it self into the Hole and make Grooves in it to fit the Threds of the Screw-pin But if the Screw-tap have no handle then it hath its upper end filed to a long square to fit into an hollow square made near the handle of the Screw-plate put that long square hole over the long square on the top of the Tap and then by turn-ing about the Screw-plate you will also turn about the Tap in the hole and make Grooves and Threds in the Nut. But though small Screws are made with Screw-plates yet great Screws such as are for Vices Hot-Presses Printing-Presses c. are not made with Screw-Plates but must be cut out of the main Iron with heavy blows upon a Cold-Chissel The manner of making them is as follows The Rules and manner of Cutting Worms upon great Screws THE Threds of Screws when they are bigger than can be made in Screw-plates are called Worms They consist in length breadth and depth the length of a Worm begins at the one end of the Spindle and ends at the other the breadth of the Worm is contained between any two Grooves on the Spindle viz. The upper and under Groove of the Worm in every part of the Spindle the depth of the Worm is cut into the Diameter of the Spindle viz. The depth between the outside of the Worm and the bottom of the Groove The depth ought to be about the one Seventh Part of the Diameter on each side the Spindle You ought to make the Groove wider than the Worm is broad because the Worm being cut out of the same intire piece with the Spindle will be as strong as the Worm in the Nut tho' the Worm on the Spindle be smaller for you cannot come at the Worm in the Nut to cut it with Files as you may the Spindle and therefore you must either Turn up a Rod of Iron to twist round about the Grooves on the Spindle and then take it off and Braze it into the Nut or else you must Cast a Nut of Brass upon the Spindle which will neither way be so strong as the Worm cut out of the whole Iron by so much as Brass is a weaker Mettal than Iron and therefore it is that you ought to allow the Worm in the Nut a greater breadth than the Worm on the Spindle that the strength of both may as near as you can be equallized for both being put to equal force ought to have equal strength The Worm may very well be the One Seventh Part smaller than the Groove is wide as aforesaid Having considered what breadth the Worm on the Spindle shall have take a small thin Plate of Brass or Iron and file a square notch at the end of it just so wide and so deep as your Worm is to be broad and deep and file the sides of the Plate that this notch stands between just to the width of the Groove This Plate must be a Gage to file your Worm and Groove to equal breadth by then draw a straight and upright line the whole length of the Spindle divide from this line the Circumference of the whole Spindle into eight equal parts and through those Divisions draw seven Lines more parallel to the first Line then open your Compasses just to the breadth of one Worm and one Groove and set off that distance
so oft as you can from the one end of the Spindle to the other but I should first have told you that the end of your Spindle must be truly square to the outside and with a Prick-Punch make a mark to every setting off on that line Do the like to all the other straight upright Lines Note that you may chuse one of these eight upright lines for the first and make the next towards your left hand the second but then the first must stand towards you and the next that the third and so on And the top mark of every one of these upright straight Lines shall be called the first Mark the next under that the second Mark the third the third Mark and so downwards in Order and Number Having marked one of these eight Lines at the top of the Spindle to begin the winding of the Worm at with a Black-lead Pencil draw a line from that Mark to the second Mark on the next upright line towards the left hand from thence continue drawing on with your Pencil to the third Mark on the third upright line draw on still to the fourth Mark on the fourth upright line and so onwards till you have drawn over the eight straight lines which when you have done you must still continue on drawing downwards to each lower Mark on each successive upright line till you have drawn your Worm from end to end Then examine as well as you can by your Eye whether the Worm you have carried on from Mark to Mark with the Black-lead Pencil do not break into Angles which if it do any where you must mend it in that place Then with the edge of an half-round File file a small line in that Black-lead line and be sure that the line you are filing run exactly through all the Marks that the Black-lead Pencil should have run through if it did not for want of good guidance of the hand This small line is only for a guide to cut the Groove down by for the making of a Screw is indeed nothing else but the cutting the Groove down for then the Worm remains But you must not file in this small line but leave it as a guide to lie on the middle of the Worm as I said before Therefore to cut down the Groove take a Cold-Chissel somewhat thinner than you intend the Groove shall be wide viz. about the thickness of the breadth of the Worm and with heavy blows cut out the Groove pretty near The reason why you should not offer to cut the Grooves to their full width at the first is because your Hand may carry the Cold-Chissel somewhat awry and should your Cold-Chissel be as thick as the Groove is wide you could not smooth the Irregularities out without making the Worm narrower than you intended it Then with a Flat-file open and smooth the Groves filing in the middle between the two next fine lines cut by the Half-round File till you have wrought the Spindle from end to end so shall the Worm remain But you must not expect that though the Groove be cut it is therefore finished for now you must begin to use the thin Plate-Gage and try First whether the Worm have equal breadth all the way Secondly whether rhe Groove have equal breadth all the way And Thirdly whether the Groove have equal depth all the way and whereever you find the Worm too broad you must file it thinner and where the Groove is not deep enough file it deeper therefore in cutting down the Groove you may observe that if at first you file the Worm ne'er so little too narrow or the Groove ne'er so little too deep you shall have all the rest of the Worm or Groove to file over again because the whole Worm must be wrought to the breadth of the smallest part of it and the whole Groove to the depth of the deepest place all the way especially if the Nut be to be Cast in Brass upon the Spindle because the Mettal running close to the Spindle will bind on that place and not come off it but if the Nut be not to be Cast in Brass but only hath a Worm brazed into it this niceness is not so absolutely necessary because that Worm is first Turned up and bowed into the Grooves of the Spindle and you may try that before it is Braz'd into the Nut and if it go not well about you may mend or botch it either by Hammering or Filing or both The manner of Casting the Nut upon the Spindle I shall shew when I come to the Casting of Mettals and the manner of Brazing hath been Taught already Numb I. fol. 12 13. If your Spindle is to have three or four Worms winding about it as Coining-Presses and Printing-Presses have that they may not wear out too fast you must divide the Circumference into three or four equal parts and each of these equal parts into two equal parts and having straight upright lines drawn as before begin a Worm at each of those three or four Divisions on the Circumference and considering the breadth of your Worm and width of your Groove measure that width so oft as you can on all the upright lines and making Marks on those at each Setting off draw as before a line from the end of the Spindle on the first upright line to the Mark below it which is the second Mark on the second upright line from thence to the third Mark on the third upright line and so on to the other end of the Spindle Having drawn the first Worm work the other Worms as this MECHANICK EXERCISES OR The Doctrine of Handy-Works Viz. The making of Jacks and Bullet-Molds the twisting of Iron and Case-hardning it with the use of some Tools not treated of before Also of the several Sorts of Steel the manner of Softning Hardning and Tempering them Of Jacks FIg. 1. is called a Worm-Jack AB the Fore-side AC the Back-side AA the Top-piece BC the Bottom-piece altogether the Jack-Frame EEK the Main-Spindle NON the Main Wheel and Barrel O the Barrel D the Wind-up-piece fastned into the Barrel FF the Worm-wheel Spindle G the Worm-wheel Q the Worm-Nut H the Worm R the Stud of the Worm-Spindle D the Worm-Loop L the Wind-up-piece M the Winch or Winder or Handle the Iron part is the Winder the Wood the Handle S the Eye of the Winder II the Fly T the Socket of the Fly V the Struck-Wheel X the Stayes or Back-fastnings First you are to Forge the Jack-frame and on the left side of the Foreside a Shank for the Stud of the Worm-spindle as you were taught Numb I. fol. 8 9 10 11 12. and then file it as you were taught Numb I. fol. 14 15 16. The top and bottom Pieces are let into square holes at the ends of the Fore and Backsides But you must forge the top and bottom Pieces with two small Squares towards the ends of them and two round ends for Screw-pins beyond
Holes as will most conveniently for height fit the breadth of the Board Then the Fence of of the Plow is set to that distance off the Iron-Plate of the Plow that you intend the Groove shall lie off the edge of the Board As if you would have the Groove lie half an Inch off the Board then the two staves must with the Mallet be knocked through the Mortesses in the stock till the Fence stands half an Inch off the Iron Plate and if the staves are fitted stiff enough in the Mortess of the stock it will keep at that distance whilst you plow the Groove For the Fence lying lower than the Iron of the Plane when you set the Iron of the Plow upon the edge of the Board will lie flat against the farther edge of the Board and so keep the Iron of the Plow all the length of the Board at the same distance from the edge of the Board that the Iron of the Plow hath from the Fence Therefore your Plow being thus fitted plow the Groove as you work with other Planes only as you laid hold on the stock of other Planes when you use them now you must lay hold of the two staves and their sholders and so thrust your Plow forwards till your Groove be made to your depth If the Staves go not stiff enough in the Mortess of the Stock you must stiffen them by knocking a little wooden wedge between the Staves and their Mortesses § 9. Of Molding-Planes There are several other Planes in use amongst Joyners called Molding-planes as the Round the Hollow the Ogee the Snipes-Bill the Rabbet-plane the Grooving-plane c. And of these they have several sorts viz. from Half a quarter of an Inch to an Inch and a Half They are used as other Planes are In the Planeing of Stuff you must use Planes whose Irons have different Mountings and that according to the hardness or softness of the Wood you are to work upon For if the wood be hard the Iron must stand more upright than it need do if the wood be soft For soft Wood as Deal Pear-tree Maple c. The Iron is set to make an Angle of 45 degrees with the Sole of the Plane But if it be very hard wood you are to Plain upon as Box Ebony Lignum Vitae c. It is set to 80 degrees and sometimes quite upright so that these hard Woods are indeed more properly said to be Scraped than Plained But before you come to use your Planes you must know how to grind and whet them for they are not so fitted when they are bought but every Workman accommodates them to his purpose as if it be an hard wood he is to work on he grinds his Basil to a more obtuse Angle than he would do for soft Wood. The Basil or Angle an Iron is ground to to work on soft Wood is about 12 Degrees and for hard wood about 18 or 20 Degrees Where note That the more accute or thinner the Basil is the better and smoother the Iron cuts and the more obtuse and thicker the stronger the Edge is to work upon hard Work § 10. Of Grinding and Whetting the Iron and other Edge-Tools When you grind your Iron place your two Thumbs under the Iron and your Fingers of both hands upon the Iron and so clap down your Iron to the stone holding it to that Angle with the Stone you intend the Basil shall have keep the Iron in this posture without either mounting or sinking its ends all the while the the Stone is turning about And when you lift the Iron off the Stone to see if it be ground to your mind if it be not you must be sure you place the Iron again in the same position on the Stone it had before for else you will make a double Basil on your Iron But if it be true set on the Stone and steddily kept to that Position your Basil will be Hollow and the smaller your Grind-stone is the hollower it will be You may know when it is well Ground by the evenness and entireness of the edge all the way Having ground your Iron you must smoothen the edge finer with a good fine Whet-stone Thus hold the edge of your Iron upwards in your left hand and your Whet-stone in your right and having first spit upon your Stone to wet it apply it to the Basil of your Iron in such a Position that it may bear upon the whole breadth of the Basil and so working the Stone over the Basil you will quickly wear the courser grating of the Grind-stone off the edge on that side Then turn the flat side of the Iron and apply the Stone flat to it till you have worn off the course gratings of the Grind-stone on that side too Joyners often grind their Irons upon a flat Grind-stone also And then they hold the Iron also in their hands in the same posture as if it were to be ground on the Round Grind-stone yet then instead of keeping the Iron on one place of the Stone they thrust it hard straight forwards almost the length of the Stone and draw it lightlier straight back again keeping it all the while at the same Angle with the superficies of the Stone and then smoothen its edge with the Whet-stone as if it had been ground upon the round Grind-stone And this they do so often till they have rubbed the hollowness of the Basil to a flat and then they grind it again upon the round Grind-stone This Order and Manner of Setting Grinding and Smoothing a Basil and Edge is also used in all other Edge-Tools Joyners use § 10. Of Chissels of several Sorts And first of Formers Formers marked C1 C3 are of several sizes They are called Formers because they are used before the Paring-Chissel even as the Fore-Plane is used before the Smoothing-Plane The Stuff you are to work upon being first scribed as I shall shew in its proper place you must set the edge of the Former a little without the scribed stroak with its Basil outwards that it may break and sholder off the Chips from your Work as the Edge cuts it And you must bear the Helve of the Former a little inwards over the Stuff that the Former do not at first cut straight down but a little outwards For should you venter to cut straight down at the first you might with a negligent or unluckly knock with the Mallet drive the edge of the Former under the work and so cut before you are aware more off the under side than the upper side of your work and so perchance spoil it Therefore you may make several cuttings to cut it straight down by little and little till your work is made ready for the Paring-Chissel When it is used the Helve of it is knockt upon with a Mallet to drive the edge into the Stuff § 11. Of the Paring-Chissel The Paring-Chissel marked C2 must have a very fine and smooth edge Its
office is to follow the Former and to pare off and smoothen the irregularities the Former made It is not knockt upon with the Mallet but the Blade is clasped upon the out side of the hindermost joints of the fore and little fingers by the clutched inside of the middle and third fingers of the right hand and so its edge being set upon the scribed line and the top of the Helve placed against the hollow of the inside of the right sholder with pressing the sholder hard upon the Helve the edge cuts and pares away the irregularities This way of handling may seem a preposterous posture to mannage an Iron Tool in and yet the reason of the Original contriver of this Posture is to be approved For should Workmen hold the Blade of the Paring-Chissel in their whole hand they must either hold their hand pretty near the Helve where they cannot well mannage the Tool or they must hold it pretty near the edge where the outside of the fingers will hide the scribed line they are to Pare in But this posture all Workmen are at first taught and Practice doth so inure them to it that if they would they could not well leave it § 12. Of the Skew-Former The Skew-Former marked C4 is seldom used by Joyners but for cleansing accute Angles with its accute Angle on its edge where the Angles of other Chissels will not so well come § 13. Of the Mortess-Chissel The Mortess Chissel marked C5 is a narrow Chissel but hath its Blade much thicker and consequently stronger that it may endure the heavier blows with the Mallet than other Chissels have so that in grinding it to an edge it is ground to a very broad Basil as you may see in the Figure It s Office is to cut deep square holes called Mortesses in a piece of Wood. Joyners use them of several Breadths according as the Breadths of their Mortesses may require § 14. Of the Gouge The Gouge marked C6 is a Chissel having a round edge for the cutting such Wood as is to be Rounded or Hollowed These several sorts of Chissels Joyners have of several Sizes that they may be accommodated to do several Sizes of Work MECHANICK EXERCISES OR THE DOCTRINE OF HANDY-WORKS By Joseph Moxon late Member of the Royal Society and Hydrographer to King Charles II. LONDON Printed and Sold by J. Moxon 1694. MECHANICK EXERCISES OR The Doctrine of Handy-Works Continued in the ART of JOYNERY § 15. Of the Square and its Use. THE Square marked D is two adjunct Sides of a Geometrical Square a The Handle b The Tongue c The Outer Square d The Inner Square For Joyner's use it is made of two pieces of wood the one about an Inch thick and the other about a quarter of an Inch thick These two pieces are severally shot exactly straight and have each of their Sides parallel to each of there own Sides The thick Piece called the Handle hath a Mortess in it as long within a quarter of an Inch as the thin piece called the Tongue is broad and stifly so wide as to contain the thickness of the Tongue The Tongue is fastned into the Mortess of the Handle with Glew and wooden pins so as the two outer sides and then consequently the two inner sides may stand at right Angles with one another The Reason why the Handle is so much thicker than the Tongue is because the Handle should on either side become a Fence to the Tongue And the reason why the Tongue hath not its whole breadth let into the end of the Handle is because they may with less care strike a line by the side of a a thin than a thick piece For if instead of holding the hand upright when they strike a line they should hold it never so little inwards the shank of a Pricker falling against the top edge of the Handle would throw the Point of a Pricker farther out than a thin piece would to avoid which Inconvenience the Tongue is left about half an Inch out of the end of the Handle Another Reason is That if with often striking the Pricker against the Tongue it becomes ragged or uneven they can with less trouble plane it again when the stuff is all the way of an equal strength than they can if cross-grain'd Sholders be added to any part of it It s use is for the striking of Lines square either to other Lines or to straight sides and to try the squareness of their Work by As if they would strike a Line square to a side they have already shot They apply the inside of the Handle close to the side shot and lay the Tongue flat upon the work then by the outerside of the Tongue they draw with a Pricker a straight line this is called Striking or drawing of a Square Or if they would Try the squareness of a Piece of stuff shot on two adjoining sides they apply the insides of the Handle and Tongue to the outsides of the stuff and if the outsides of the stuff do all the way agree in Line with the insides of the Square it is true Square Or if they would try the inward squareness of work they apply the two outsides of the Square to the insides of the work § 16. The manner of Plaining and Trying a piece of Stuff square We will take for Example a Piece of Stuff called a Quarter which is commonly two Inches thick four Inches broad and seven Foot long To plane this Square lay one of its broad sides upon the Bench with one of its ends shov'd pretty hard into the Teeth of the Bench-hook that it may lie the steddier Then with the Fore-Plane as you were taught § 2. Number 2. Plane off the roughness the Saw made at the Pit and work that side of the Quarter as straight in its length and breadth as you can with the Fore-Plane which you may give a pretty good guess at if the edge of the Iron have born all the way upon the work yet you may try by taking up your work and applying one end of it to one Eye whilst you wink with the other and observe if any Hollow or Dawks be in the length if not you may conclude it pretty true For the work thus held the Eye will discern pretty nearly Or for more certainty you may apply the edge of the two-foot Rule or rather a Rule shot the full length of the Quarter to your work and if it agree all the way with the Rule you may conclude it is straight in length But if you find it not straight you must still with the Fore-Plane work off those Risings that bear the edge of the Rule off any part of the Stuff Then try if the Breadth be pretty straight if it be the Dawks the roughness the Fore Plane made excepted the first office of the Fore Plane is perform'd If it be not you must straighten the Breadth as you did the Length But though this Quarter
and smooth as a Table Yet though the Rules Joyners and Carpenters work by are so near the same and the Tools they work with and Stuff they work upon the same yet there are many Requisites proper to a Carpenter especially a Master Carpenter that a Joyner need take little notice of which after I have described the Carpenters Tools that are not exprest among the Joyners I shall speak to § 1. Of several Tools used in Carpentry that are not used in Joynery And first of the Ax THe Ax marked A in Plate 8. is as you see different from what the Joyners Hatchet is both in size and form their 's being a light Hatchet with a Basil edge on its left side because it is to be used with one hand and therefore hath a short Handle But the Carpenter's Ax being to hew great Stuff is made much deeper and heavier and its edge tapering into the middle of its Blade It hath a long Handle because it is used with both their hands to square or bevel their Timbers When they use the Ax the Timber hath commonly some Bauk or Log laid under it near each end that the edge of the Ax may be in less danger of striking into the ground when they hew near the bottom of the Timber And they commonly stand on that side the Timber they hew upon § 2. Of the Adz and its use THe Adz marked B in Plate 8. hath its Blade made thin and somewhat arching As the Ax hath its edge parallel to its Handle so the Adz hath its edge athwart the Handle and is ground to a Basil on its inside to its outer edge wherefore when it is blunt they cannot well grind it unless they take its Helve out of its Eye It s general use is to take thin Chips off Timber or Boards and to take off those irregularities that the Ax by reason of its form cannot well come at and that a Plain though rank set will not make riddance enough with It is most used for the taking off the irregularities on the framed work of a Floor when it is framed and pin'd together and laid on its place for that lying flat under them the edge of the Ax being parallel to its Handle as aforesaid cannot come at the irregularities to take them off but the Adz having its edge athwart the Handle will Again upon some Posts framed upright and range with other framed work close to it the edge of the Ax cannot come at the irregularities for the reason aforesaid but the Adz will And the like for the irregularities of framed work on a Ceiling c. When they work upon the framed work of a Floor they take the end of the Handle in both their hands placing themselves directly before the irregularity at a small distance stradling a little with both their Legs to prevent danger from the edge of the Adz and so by degrees hew of the irregularity But if they hew upon an Upright they stand directly before it They sometimes use the Adz upon small thin Stuff to make it thinner but this is many times when the Ax or some other properer Tool lies not at hand and then they lay their Stuff upon the Floor and hold one end of it down with the Ball of the Foot if the Stuff be long enough if not with the ends of their Toes and so hew it lightly away to their size or form or both § 3. Of Carpenters Chissels in general THough Carpenters for their finer work use all the sorts of Chissels described in Exercise 4. yet are not those sorts of Chissels strong enough for their rougher and more common work and therefore they also use a stronger sort of Chissels and distinguish them by the name of Socket-Chissels For whereas those Chissels Joyners use have their wooden heads made hollow to receive the Iron Sprig above the Shoulder of the Shank Carpenters have their Shank made with an hollow Socket at its top to receive a strong wooden Sprig made to fit into that Socket with a square Shoulder above it the thickness of the Iron of the Socket or somewhat more which makes it much more strong and able to endure the heavy blows of the Mallet they lay upon the head of the Chissel And the Shanks and Blades are made stronger for Carpenters use than they are for Joyners Of these Socket Chissels they have of the several sorts described in Joinery though not all severally distinguished by their names for they call them Half-Inch Three-quarter-Inch Chissels Inch and half Two-Inch to Three-Inch Chissel according to the breadth of the Blade But their Uses are the same mentioned in Joinery though the manner of using them be somewhat different too For as I told you in Joinery the Joyners press the edge of the Blade into the Stuff with the strength of their Shoulders but the Carpenters with the force of the blows of the Mallet And the Joyners guide their Chissels differently from what the Carpenters do their Socket Chissels for the Joyners hold the Shank and Blade of their Chissels as I described in Numb 4. Sect. 11. but the Carpenters hold the Shank of their Chissels in their clutched left hand and beat upon the Head with the Mallet in the right See the Figure of the Socket Chissel in Plate 8. C. with its Head a out of the Socket § 4. Of the Ripping Chissel and its use THe Ripping Chissel described Plate 8. D. is a Socket Chissel and is about an Inch broad and hath a blunt edge It s edge hath not a Basil as almost all other Chissels have and therefore would more properly be called a Wedge than a Chissel But most commonly Carpenters use an old cast off Chissel for a Ripping Chissel It s office is not to cut Wood as others do but to rip or tear two pieces of wood fastned together from one another by entering the blunt edge of it between the two pieces and then knocking hard with the Mallet upon the head of the Handle till you drive the thicker part of it between the two pieces and so force the power that holds them together be it Nails or otherwise to let go their hold For its blunt edge should be made of Steel and well tempered so that if you knock with strong blows of the Mallet the Chissels edge upon a Nail though of some considerable substance it may cut or brake it short asunder If you cannot at once placing the Ripping-Chissel part the two pieces you must use two Ripping-Chissels placing the second at the remotest entrance in the breach and driving that home will both open the breach wider and loosen the first Ripping-Chissel so that you may take it out again and place it farther in the breach And so you must continue edging farther and farther till you have separated your intended pieces It is sometimes used when Carpenters have committed error in their work and must undo what they did to mend it But it
the Rest and consequently with the Work which is parallel to the Rest for should you set the edge of the Chissel parallel to the Work it might run too fast into the Work and dawk it Therefore you must set the Chissel in such a position that the lower Corner or near the lower Corner of the edge may cut lightly upon the Work But this position is best described by a Figure which to that purpose I have inserted in Plate 14. at O where you may perceive in or near what position the Chissel must be set to cut the Work and how the edge of the Chissel a b lying aslant the Work and the further Corner of the edge of the Chissel b being somewhat mounted as the Work comes about the Bottom or near the Bottom of the edge of the Chissel is only capable to cut a narrow Shaving off the Work and just in this manner you must keep the Chissel steddy bearing upon the Work as the Pole comes down and withdrawing it from the Work as the Pole Springs up as you were taught to use the Gouge and at the same time sliding it forwards from one end of the Work to the other till it be wrought down all the way to its true Diameter between the points of the Callippers For then a straight Ruler applied to your Work the outside of your proposes Cilinder will be formed Only the ends must be cut down square to the length Therefore open the points of your Compasses to the distance of eight Inches on your Rule and prick that distance hard off upon your Work that the points of your Compasses may leave visible marks by placing one point as near one end as you can to leave Stuff enough to cut straight down all the way that is to cut it square down at right Angles with the outside of the Work Which to do you must hold the Handle of the Flat Chissel in your Right hand as before and clasp the Blade of it in your Left and lay one of the thin sides of it upon the Rest so that the edge may stand upright or very near upright against the Work Then sink your Right hand somewhat below the Level of the Rest that the lower Corner of the edge of the Chissel may mount and being thrust steddy against the Work just in the mark one Point of the Compasses made Tread the Treddle and cut a pretty deep Circle into the Stuff But you must have a care you do not direct the cutting Corner of the Chissel inwards but rather outwards left you make the end hollow instead of Flat For if you do take off too little at first you may by degrees cut it down to a Flat afterwards As you cut deeper into the Stuff you must turn the Flat of the Chissel and with it cut down the Shoulder just at the end on the outside the mark for else that may hinder the Corner of the Edge of the Chissel for coming at the Work Note that if you hold not the edge of the Chissel truly before the Work but direct it inwards and if you hold it not very steddy and have a good guidance of it the quick coming about of the Work may draw the edge of the Chissel into it inwards and run a dawk on Cilinder like the Grooves of a Screw and so spoil your Work For being once wrought to the true size you cannot afterwards take any more off to cleanse it c. The other end must be cut down as this § 14. Of Turning Flat Boards IF your Board be thick enough you may boar a round Hole in the middle of it and Turn a Mandrel with a Pin a very little Tapering to fit hard and stiff into the round Hole And if the Hole and Pin be proportionable in size to the weight of the Board the Pin will carry it about But you must be very careful the Hole be boared exactly straight through the middle and not inclining on either side the Board more to any part of the Verge than to another but that the middle of the Hole be exactly the Center of the Board the whole thickness through This Pin-Mandrel is described Numb 11. § 6. and Plate 13. If your Board be not thick enough to be fastned upon a Pin-Mandrel or that your Work will not admit of an Hole to be bored through the middle of it you may use the Flat Mandrel described Plate 13. F 2. And then you must with your Compasses find the Center on the backside of the Round Board with several proffers if need require till you have found it and prick there an Hole for a mark Then open the points of your Compasses to about the thickness of a Shilling wider than the Semidiameter of the Flat Mandrel and with the points of your Compasses at that distance describe a Circle on the backside of the Board to be Turned by placing one Foot in the prick mark and turning about the other Foot By this Circle you may pitch the Center of the Board exactly upon the Center of the Flat Mandrel For the points of the Compasses being opened about the thickness of a Shilling wider than the Semidiameter of the Flat Mandrel will when you have pitcht the Center of the Board on the Center of the Mandrel place the outer Verge of the Mandrel the thickness of a Shilling round about within the Circle described on the backside of the Board And when it is thus pitcht you may by laying the Board flat down knock upon the Rowler end of the Mandrel and drive the Pegs in the flat of the Mandrel into the Board and so hold it steddy upon the Mandrel Then find the Center on the Foreside of the Board also as you were taught to find the Center on the backside and put your Board and Mandrel upon the Pikes of the Puppets and screw them hard up as you have been taught before Sometimes Turners use this Flat Mandrel without Pegs and then they chalk the Flat side of it very well and clap the backside of the Board to it which will if the Board to be Turned be not too heavy but be well screwed up between the Pikes keep the Board steddy from slipping from its set-position till you work it If in going about of your Work you find it Wabble that is that one side of the Flat incline either to the Right or Left Hand you must with soft Blows of an Hammer or other Tool at hand set it to right and then again screw it hard up For so often as you thus strike upon the Verge to set the Board true you force the Steel point of the Pike more or less according to the softness of the Wood towards that side of the Verge you strike upon and therefore you may perceive a reason for screwing up the Pike so oft as you knock upon the outer Verge of the Board But we will now suppose the Board well pitcht and fastned on the Mandrel