so oft as you can from the one end of the Spindle to the other but I should first have told you that the end of your Spindle must be truly square to the outside and with a Prick-Punch make a mark to every setting off on that line Do the like to all the other straight upright Lines Note that you may chuse one of these eight upright lines for the first and make the next towards your left hand the second but then the first must stand towards you and the next that the third and so on And the top mark of every one of these upright straight Lines shall be called the first Mark the next under that the second Mark the third the third Mark and so downwards in Order and Number Having marked one of these eight Lines at the top of the Spindle to begin the winding of the Worm at with a Black-lead Pencil draw a line from that Mark to the second Mark on the next upright line towards the left hand from thence continue drawing on with your Pencil to the third Mark on the third upright line draw on still to the fourth Mark on the fourth upright line and so onwards till you have drawn over the eight straight lines which when you have done you must still continue on drawing downwards to each lower Mark on each successive upright line till you have drawn your Worm from end to end Then examine as well as you can by your Eye whether the Worm you have carried on from Mark to Mark with the Black-lead Pencil do not break into Angles which if it do any where you must mend it in that place Then with the edge of an half-round File file a small line in that Black-lead line and be sure that the line you are filing run exactly through all the Marks that the Black-lead Pencil should have run through if it did not for want of good guidance of the hand This small line is only for a guide to cut the Groove down by for the making of a Screw is indeed nothing else but the cutting the Groove down for then the Worm remains But you must not file in this small line but leave it as a guide to lie on the middle of the Worm as I said before Therefore to cut down the Groove take a Cold-Chissel somewhat thinner than you intend the Groove shall be wide viz. about the thickness of the breadth of the Worm and with heavy blows cut out the Groove pretty near The reason why you should not offer to cut the Grooves to their full width at the first is because your Hand may carry the Cold-Chissel somewhat awry and should your Cold-Chissel be as thick as the Groove is wide you could not smooth the Irregularities out without making the Worm narrower than you intended it Then with a Flat-file open and smooth the Groves filing in the middle between the two next fine lines cut by the Half-round File till you have wrought the Spindle from end to end so shall the Worm remain But you must not expect that though the Groove be cut it is therefore finished for now you must begin to use the thin Plate-Gage and try First whether the Worm have equal breadth all the way Secondly whether rhe Groove have equal breadth all the way And Thirdly whether the Groove have equal depth all the way and whereever you find the Worm too broad you must file it thinner and where the Groove is not deep enough file it deeper therefore in cutting down the Groove you may observe that if at first you file the Worm ne'er so little too narrow or the Groove ne'er so little too deep you shall have all the rest of the Worm or Groove to file over again because the whole Worm must be wrought to the breadth of the smallest part of it and the whole Groove to the depth of the deepest place all the way especially if the Nut be to be Cast in Brass upon the Spindle because the Mettal running close to the Spindle will bind on that place and not come off it but if the Nut be not to be Cast in Brass but only hath a Worm brazed into it this niceness is not so absolutely necessary because that Worm is first Turned up and bowed into the Grooves of the Spindle and you may try that before it is Braz'd into the Nut and if it go not well about you may mend or botch it either by Hammering or Filing or both The manner of Casting the Nut upon the Spindle I shall shew when I come to the Casting of Mettals and the manner of Brazing hath been Taught already Numb I. fol. 12 13. If your Spindle is to have three or four Worms winding about it as Coining-Presses and Printing-Presses have that they may not wear out too fast you must divide the Circumference into three or four equal parts and each of these equal parts into two equal parts and having straight upright lines drawn as before begin a Worm at each of those three or four Divisions on the Circumference and considering the breadth of your Worm and width of your Groove measure that width so oft as you can on all the upright lines and making Marks on those at each Setting off draw as before a line from the end of the Spindle on the first upright line to the Mark below it which is the second Mark on the second upright line from thence to the third Mark on the third upright line and so on to the other end of the Spindle Having drawn the first Worm work the other Worms as this MECHANICK EXERCISES OR The Doctrine of Handy-Works Viz. The making of Jacks and Bullet-Molds the twisting of Iron and Case-hardning it with the use of some Tools not treated of before Also of the several Sorts of Steel the manner of Softning Hardning and Tempering them Of Jacks FIg. 1. is called a Worm-Jack AB the Fore-side AC the Back-side AA the Top-piece BC the Bottom-piece altogether the Jack-Frame EEK the Main-Spindle NON the Main Wheel and Barrel O the Barrel D the Wind-up-piece fastned into the Barrel FF the Worm-wheel Spindle G the Worm-wheel Q the Worm-Nut H the Worm R the Stud of the Worm-Spindle D the Worm-Loop L the Wind-up-piece M the Winch or Winder or Handle the Iron part is the Winder the Wood the Handle S the Eye of the Winder II the Fly T the Socket of the Fly V the Struck-Wheel X the Stayes or Back-fastnings First you are to Forge the Jack-frame and on the left side of the Foreside a Shank for the Stud of the Worm-spindle as you were taught Numb I. fol. 8 9 10 11 12. and then file it as you were taught Numb I. fol. 14 15 16. The top and bottom Pieces are let into square holes at the ends of the Fore and Backsides But you must forge the top and bottom Pieces with two small Squares towards the ends of them and two round ends for Screw-pins beyond
Plate 4. with the handle towards their left hand and the end of the Saw to the right then with a three-square File they begin at the left hand end leaning harder upon the side of the file on the right hand than on that side to the left hand so that they file the upperside of the Tooth of the Saw a-slope towards the right hand and the underside of the Tooth a little a-slope towards the left or almost down-right Having filed one Tooth thus all the rest must be so filed Then with the Saw-wrest marked O. in Plate 4. they set the Teeth of the Saw that is they put one of the Notches marked a a a of the Wrest between the first two Teeth on the Blade of the Saw and then turn the Handle Horizontally a little about upon the Notch towards the end of the Saw and that at once turns the first Tooth somewhat towards you and the second Tooth from you Then skipping two Tooth they again put one of the notches of the Wrest between the third and fourth Teeth on the Blade of the Saw and then as before turn the Handle a little about upon the notch towards the end of the Saw and that turns the third Tooth somewhat towards you and the Fourth somewhat from you Thus you must skip two Teeth at a time and turn the Wrest till all the Teeth of the Saw are set This Setting of the Teeth of the Saw as Workmen call it is to make the Kerf wide enough for the Back to follow the edge and is Set Ranker for soft course cheap Stuff than for hard fine and costly Stuff for the Ranker the Tooth is set the more Stuff is wasted in the Kerf and besides if the Stuff be hard it will require greater labour to tear away a great deal of hard Stuff than it will do to tear away but a little of the same Stuff The Pit-Saw is Set so Rank for course stuff as to make a Kerf of almost a quarter of an Inch but for fine and costly stuff they set it finer to save Stuff The Whip-Saw is set somewhat finer than the Pit-Saw the Hand-Saw and the Compass-Saw finer than the Whip-Saw But the Tennant-Saw Frame-saw and the Bow-Saw c. are set fine and have their Teeth but very little turned over the sides of their Blades So that a Kerf made by them is seldom above half a half quarter of an Inch. The reason why the Teeth are filed to an Angle pointing towards the end of the Saw and not towards the handle of the Saw or directly straight between the handle and end of the Saw is Because the Saw is designed to cut only in its progess forwards Man having in that activity more strength to rid and Command of his hands to guide his Work than he can have in drawing back his Saw and therefore when he draws back his Saw the Work-men bears it lightly off the unsawn Stuff which is an case to is labour and enables him the longer to continue his several Progressions of the Saw Master-Workmen when they direct any of their Underlins to saw such a piece of Stuff have several Phrases for the sawing of it They seldom say Saw that piece of Stuff But Draw the Saw through it Give that piece of Stuff a kerf Lay a kerf in that piece of Stuff and sometimes but most unproperly Cut or Slit that piece of stuff For the Saw cannot properly be said to cut or slit the Stuff but it rather breaks or tears away such parts of the Stuff from the whole as the points of the Teeth prick into and these parts it so tears away are proportionable to the fineness or rankness of the Setting of the Teeth The Excellency of Sawing is to keep the kerf exactly in the line marked out to be Sawn without wriggling on either or both sides And straight through the Stuff as Work-men call it that is in a Geometrical Term perpendicularly through the upper and underside if your Work require it as most work does But if your work be to be Sawn upon a Bevil as some work sometimes is then you are to observe that Bevil all the length of the Stuff c. § 27. The Use of the Pit-Taw marked M. in Plate 4. The Pit-Saw is not only used by those Work-men that make Sawing Timber and Boards their whole business but is also for small matters used by Joyners when what they have to do may perhaps be as soon done at home as they can carry or send it to the Sawyers The manner of their working is both alike for if it be a Board they would slit off a piece of Timber or if they would take any square Quarter or Batten c. off they first set off their Scantlin For Example If it be an Inch or more or less they would take off a piece of Stuff they open the points of their Compasses to an Inch measure on their Rule and so much more as they reckon the kerf of the Saw will make and from on side of their Stuff they set off at either end of the Stuff the Distance of the points of their Compasses at this Distance therefore they make with the points of their Compasses a prick at either end of the Stuff Then with Chaulk they whiten a line by rubbing the Chaulk pretty hard upon it Then one holds the line at one end upon the prick made there and the other strains the line pretty stiff upon the prick at the other end then whilst the line is thus strain'd one of them between his Finger and Thumb draws the middle of the line directly upright to a convenient height that it may spring hard enough down and then lets it go again so that it swiftly applies to its first position and strikes so strongly against the Stuff that the dust or attoms of the Chaulk that were rubbed into the Line shake out of it and remain upon the Stuff And thus also they mark the under-side of their Stuff This is called Lining of the Stuff And the Stuff cut into those lines shall be called Inch-Stuff because the Compasses that prickt the Stuff were opened wider by the width of the kerf than an Inch measure upon the Rule But had the Compasses been opened but an Inch exactly that piece Sawn off should in Workmen's Language have been called Inch-prickt thereby giving to understand that it is half the breadth of the kerf thinner than an Inch And thus they call all other Scantlins 2 Inches 2 ½ Inches 3 Inches c. Sawn or Prickt When two Work-men are not at hand to hold the line at both ends he that lines it strikes one point of his Compass or sometimes a Pricker or a Nale aslope towards that end into the prick set off and putting the noose at the end of his line over his Compasses c. goes to the other end and strains his line on that prick and strikes it as before The Stuff being thus lined
you can upon the length of your work for so shall the File enter upon the second Rising on your work before it goes off the first and will slip over and not touch the dent or hollow between the two Risings till your Risings are brought into a straight line with your hollow dent But of this more shall be said when I come to the Practice of Filing upon several particular sorts of work If it be a Square Bar or such like you are to file upon all its Angles or Edges must be left very sharp and straight Therefore your Vice being well set up according to fore-going Directions you must in your filing athwart over the Chaps of the Vice be sure to carry both your hands you hold the file in truly Horizontal or flat over the Work for should you let either of your hands mount the other would dip and the edge of that Square it dips upon would be taken off and should you let your hand move never so little circularly both the Edges you file upon would be taken off and the Middle of your intended Flat would be left with a Rising on it But this Hand-craft you must attain to by Practice for it is the great Curiosity in Filing If it be a round Piece or Rod of Iron you are to file upon what you were forbid upon Square Work you must perform on the Round for you must dip your Handle-hand and mount your end-hand a little and laying pritting near the end of your File to the Work file circularly upon the Work by mounting your handle-Handle-hand by degrees and dipping your End-hand in such manner as when the Middle of your File comes about the top of your Work your File may be flat upon it and as you continue your stroaks forwards still keep your hands moving circularly till you have finished your full Stroak that is a Stroak the whole length of the File By this manner of Circular filing you keep your Piece or Rod round but should you file flat upon the top of your work so many times as you shall remove or turn your work in the Vice so many Flats or Squares you would have in your work which is contrary to your purpose When you thrust your File forwards lean heavy upon on it because the Teeth of the File are made to cut forwards but when you draw your File back to recover an other thrust lift or bear the File lightly just above the work for it cuts not coming back Thus much of FILING in General MECHANICK EXERCISES OR THE DOCTRINE OF HANDY-WORKS By Joseph Moxon late Member of the Royal Society and Hydographer to King Charles II. LONDON Printed and Sold by J. Moxon 1693. MECHANICK EXERCISES OR The Doctrine of Handy-Works Applied to the making of Hinges Locks Keys Screws and Nuts Small and Great Of Hinges IN Fig. 1. A the Tail B the Cross CDDDDE the Joint DDDD the Pin-hole When the Joint at C on the Tail is pin'd in the Joint at E in the Cross the whole Hinge is called a Cross-Garnet Hinges if they be small as for Cup-board doors Boxes c. are cut out of cold Plate Iron with the a Cold-Chissel but you must mark the out-lines of your intended Hinge as Fig. 1. the Cross-Garnet either with Chalk or else rase upon the Plate with the corner of the Cold-Chissel or any other hardned Steel that will scratch a bright stroke upon the Plate and then laying the Plate flat upon the Anvil if the Plate be large or upon the b Stake if the Plate be small take the Cold-Chissel in your left hand and set the edge of it upon that Mark or Rase and with the Hand-hammer in your right hand strike upon the head of the Cold-Chissel till you cut or rather punch the edge of the Cold-Chissel almost thro' the Plate in that Place I say almost through because should you strike it quite through the edge of the Cold-Chissel would be in danger of battering or else breaking for the Face of the Anvil is hardned Steel and a light blow upon its Face would wrong the edge of the Cold-Chissel besides it sometimes happens that the Anvil or Stake is not all over so hard as it should be and then the Cold-Chissel would cut the Face of the Anvil or Stake and consequently spoil it Therefore when the edge of the Cold-Chissel comes pretty near the bottom of the Plate you must lay but light blows upon the cold Chissel and yet you must strike the edge of the Cold-Chissel so near through the bottom of the Plate that you may break the remaining substance asunder with your Fingers or with a pair of Plyers or sometimes by pinching the Plate in the Vice with the Cut place close to the Superficies of the Chaps of the Vice and then with your Fingers and Thumb or your whole hand wriggle it quite asunder But having cut one breadth of the Cold-Chissel remove the edge of it forward in the Rase and cut another breadth and so move it successively till your whole intended shape be cut out of the Plate When you cut out an Hinge you must leave on the length of the Plate AB in this Figure Plate enough to lap over for the Joints I mean to Turn or Double about a round Pin so big as you intend the Pin of your Hinge shall be and also Plate enough to Weld upon the inside of the Hinge below the Pin-hole of the Joint that the Joint may be strong Afterwards with a Punch of hardned Steel as you were taught Numb I. fol. 11. 12. Punch the Nail-holes in the Plate or if your Plate be very thin you may Punch them with a â— cold Punch After all smooth it as well as you can with your Hand-hammer take a Blood-red Heat if your Work require it if not smooth it cold so shall the Tail-piece be fit for the Pile Double and Weld the Cross-piece as you did the Tail-piece Having forg'd your Hinge fit for the File you must proceed to make the Joint by cutting a notch in the middle of the Pin-hole between DD in Plate 2. on the Cross as at E and you must cut down the ends of the Pin-hole on the Tail-piece as at DD till the Joint at C fit exactly into the notch in the Cross and that when the Pin is put into the Pin-hole DD on the Cross the Pin-hole in the Tail-piece may also receive the Pin then by holding the Tail-piece in one hand and the Cross in the other double the Tail and Cross towards one another to try if they move evenly and smoothly without shaking on the Pin which if they do the Joint is made if they do not you must examine where the Fault is and taking the Pin out mend the fault in the Joint Then File down all the irregularities the Cold-Chissel made on the edges of your Work and if the curiosity of work require it file also the outer flat of your work But Smiths