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A65620 A journey into Greece by George Wheler, Esq., in company of Dr. Spon of Lyons in six books ... : with variety of sculptures. Wheler, George, Sir, 1650-1723.; Spon, Jacob, 1647-1685. 1682 (1682) Wing W1607; ESTC R9388 386,054 401

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a stringy Root springeth at first a thick Tuft of tender Sprouts whose Leaves are set so thick after one another two by two and crossing each other that they quite hide the round Stalk and make it look most Beautiful It seemeth all over hairy but as it groweth up about half a foot high it stretcheth the Leaves to a greater distance from each other in pairs and still crossing each other They are of a light green colour ribbed oval and pierced like St John's Woort but not pointed at the Ends smooth on both sides but round the Edges very rough and hairy I observe now since they are dry that they are full of black Spots Towards the top of the Flowers come out one above another from between the Leaves and leave a little Button of Seed divided into three parts with a hairy Husk about it of fine Leaves I cannot be positive whether I saw the Flower or no but if my Memory doth not very much fail me I did and it was a reddish colour But it is perfectly faded in my Book being very thin and tender I think it may be properly called Hyperioon margine crinifero Olympii Montis 7. After Conyzoides Gesneri with another thought to be Astragalus Matheoli flore Caeruleo 8. Pyrola fruticosior tenerior or as Bauhinus frutescens Arbuti folio which expresseth more the Nature of it 9. Gentianella Verna which hath a Knot of small Ature Flowers growing close to the ground 10. Senetium lanuginosum as Mr. Merchant or rather Senetio incana pinguis according to C. Bauhinus page 131. Downy Grounsel for it is so fat and glutinous that it sticketh to the Fingers This is not described by Gerard But it groweth taller and of a more strong Substance than the ordinary Grounsel But to give an exact Description of it I know not well how For it is spoiled with bringing so far or rather for want of care in putting it up better The Leaves as I remember are somewhat bigger than the vulgar and something like Ragweed 11. Cerinthe Minor G. 12. Cystus Argenteis foliis as Mr. Merchant calleth it I do not find it described in Gerard nor can I sind any Name agreeing with it exactly in C. Bauhinus his Pinàx although there are many incana hirsuta This is a little shrubby Plant growing from one Root into a round Tuft of woody Branches not a handful high from the ground dividing it self into many white Twigs which are thick set with small triple Leaves covered with a shining Whiteness like Sattin among which I saw short broad and flat Cods but the Hair longer and more downy containing a little shining and broad Seed Perhaps it may be that which Bellonius telleth grows not in France nor Italy without giving any other Desrciption of it nor hath it by me been seen in either 13. Cymbalaria Italica G. 14. Calamentha montana praestantior G. 687. 15. Elichryson sive Gnaphalium comâ aureâ This is a very beautiful Plant which hath lying almost flat on the ground several long Leaves out of the middle of which riseth up a round Stalk of a handful and half high set about carelesly with narrow Leaves All of them from the bottom to the top covered with so thick white Down that it may be pulled off with the Fingers The top is crowned with a Tuft of scaly globular Flowers of a bright yellow colour which being gathered will continue fresh many Years 16. There is growing up and down upon the top of this Mountain Tufts of Grass or Rushes lying round together upon the ground like a Hedgehog or Porcupine about half a handful high each having a sharp hard point which makes it very hard to come at to gather any of it 17. Stratiotes Tragi page 476. or Millefolium Nobile G. I. B. page 1073. He hath forgot to mention the Odoriferous Smell it hath The Seeds smell like the Seeds of common Tansy but more pleasant His Design agreeth well with my Plants 18. Descending from the Mountain I observed another sort of Hypericon or St John's Woort with a single large Flower on the top upon a Stalk of a foot or better high whereon Leaves grow like the other St John's Woort but larger and by pairs at equal distances The Description that C. Bauhinus in his Prodromo page 130. giveth of Ascyron magno flore agreeth well with this only I may add That it beareth but one Flower at the top and that the Seeds follow the Flower in a round Cod like Park Leaves which he never saw but saith It was gathered in the Pyrenaean Mountains by Dr Barserus but this here upon Olympus 19. Panax Heracleum or Hercules All-heale But whether it beareth Opopanax here I had not time to examine 20. Borago Semper Virens or Everlasting Borage of which G. page 797. 21. On the Mountain in plain Places where standing Water had been I gathered a kind of Gnaphalium which I find not described It is most like the Leontopodium of Gerard But whereas he says That riseth a handful high This creepeth and lieth flat on the Ground From a little blackish Root spreade five or six or more downy Stems of about an Inch long on which are commonly half a dozen white sharp Leaves three long ones and three short ones like the Stoechas Citrina I but now mentioned Within which is a greenish yellow Flower I believe each of them take root and produce many more of the same For it spreadeth irregularly very much abroad whereof this I have now described is but a slip although it is rooted 22. I was shewed a dried Herb that groweth on this Mountain whereof the Powder is made we commonly call Tutti Dr Pickering called it Herba Tuitia I saw it only dry but it seemeth both in Root Leaves and Flower to be very like our ordinary Field-Cowslip only the Leaves are much longer and the Cups that contain the Flowers rather like Auricula Vrsi and the Flowers of a reddish colour of five little Leaves each with a notch also at the top They say when it is blown there is a Dust that may be shaken off this Plant which is the best Powder This Armenian told us There groweth a World of other curious Plants and fair Flowers about this Mountain but that the time of Year to see them was past As for me I was glad I found these and sorry that Night grew so near that I was forced to desist searching them to find the way down which we did with difficulty enough not being half way down before the Night over-took us nor arrived we to the Kan before ten or eleven at Night I was carried to a Turkish Quack-Salver a Man reputed for his Skill in Physick among them where I saw a great many ordinary Herbs dried in bundles some I knew not perhaps it was because ill dried All that I saw green was an Herb much like Germander only the Snips of the Leaves were sharp and not
after that also bearing the Decree of the Senate and People honouring Demetrius Son of Praxion and I believe the Statues of each of those Men were placed upon each of these Inscriptions Thence we went down by the Streight-way to the Port where on a Rock by the Sea-side are the Remains of Old Walls I believe of some Fortress belonging to the antient City Nicaea which in all probability stood there And was built by Nisus one of the four Sons of Pandion who at his Death divided his Kingdom of Attica into four parts and gave Megaris to Nisus About it below are the Remains of a dozen little old Churches and therefore they call the Place Dodeca-Ecclesia the Twelve Churches But now there is not so much as one Church entire or dwelling House no People nor no Priest This was the Port-Town of the Megarians of which the two Rocks which make the Harbour were antiently called Minoa Being return'd to Megara we took our Horses and went about three or four Miles Northward to a ruined Town they call 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Old Town where we found six or seven old Churches built as I conceive out of the Ruins of some more antient Edifices and in them some antient Inscriptions Q. CORTIO SALASSI L. POTHINO EX TESTAMENTO ARBITRATV THEOPHRASTI ET .......... ANCELI L. One in Latine in memory of Quintus Curtius of Salassi a City of Gallia Cisalpina or Piemont as Ferrarius hath it What Quintus Curtius this was I shall not take upon me to determine Η ΒΟΥΛΗ ΝΕΙΚΙΑΝ ΕΡΜΕΙΟΥ ΒΑΣΙΛΕΥΣΑΝΤΑ ΑΡΕΤΗϹ ΧΑΡΙΝ There is another Inscription to the Memory of Nicias the Son of Hermius who as Pliny testifies L. 7. c. 16. was the first that invented the Trade of Fulling The Stone shews that he governed there I believe this Town was the antient Rhus mentioned by Pausanias I observed much Mandragora or Mandrakes growing in this Plain it being then in Flower and of a Purple or Violet colour 2. Keratia in great plenty of which before Lib. VI. Astragali Species 3. A kind of Astragalus which Monsieur Merchant calleth Astragalus argentens and doubts whether it be not Astragalus Syriacus It was not then in its full growth but hath a Root running deep in the Ground The Leaves were set upon a long stem small and something like to that which is called Grecian Valerian but covered over with a shining white and hoary down Among the Leaves I perceived some Buds not blown but then of a light yellow colour which whether they change when blown I know not But their shape is like Bean-blossoms Next Morning GERANIA now PALAIOBOUNI before it was light we parted from Megara that we might if possible reach Corinth the same day For it is further from thence to Corinth than it is from Athens thither and the way worse For not a Mile from Megara we began to ascend the Mountain Palaio-vouni by the lower way For there are two the one over the top of the Mountain and the other along the side of it This hath a very deep precipice on the left hand unto the Sea and the Mountain a vast height above it and is worthily called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the Bad Way For it is one of the worst I ever travell'd for narrowness raggedness and danger of falling down some a hundred Yards headlong into the Sea which the least stumble of our Horses might easily effect This way in antient times was famous for the Robber Sciron who from thence threw head-long into the Sea all such as he had robbed until Theseus came who was too hard for him and justly made him taste the same Punishment he so barbarously had inflicted upon others throwing him into the Sea from a rocky Precipice Whence it was antiently called Scironides rupes or Scironiasaxa The Road is at this time little less infested with the Ambuscades of Corsairs than it was of old by that Thief Turks themselves dread and tremble to go this way when necessary occasions force them to it for fear of these People insomuch that one Turk happening to be on this Road at the time we passed by seeing us to be Francks and knowing the English Druggerman that went with us was glad to joyn himself to us and for greater security to pull off his Turbant and make a Girdle of it leaving only a red Skull-Cap upon his Head like a Greek This whole Mountain was called in old time Gerania because Megarus escaped thither in Deucalion's Flood being guided by the noise of Cranes called in Greek 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 as I have elsewhere proved It is a very high Mountain of which these high Cliffs are but upon the side a great way below the highest Point though they themselves are of a great height from the Sea As we passed along I observ'd the Wind to precipitate it self strangely down from the top of the Mountain WIND into the Sea some Blasts seeming to fall right down upon the Surface of the Water and there to be divided three or four several ways making the Waves to foam as it went Sometimes I saw the Water agitated for several Furlongs round about and in other parts smooth and calm at the same time for a considerable while together which was a Divertisement to us while we passed along that dangerous Road. Much time we spent in scrambling up and down these Precipices which done we continued along the Shore under the Mountain until we came to an antient Monument about mid-way from Megara to Corinth being raised up three or four Yards from the Ground and eight squard About it lay several large Planks of Marble some with Basso-relievd's upon them and some without One of which hath a Man walking on foot and a Horse passing by him the other way Another hath a Figure in a lying Posture but much defaced Not far from hence the antient Cromium ought to have been situated which was sometimes the Bounds between Attica and Peloponnesus But whether this was the Pedestal to the Pillar that King Theseus set up to be the Bounds between his Athenians and the Peloponnesians I dare not say but rather think it was some Octogone Temple For the Pillar should be further within the Isthmus where the Isthmian Games were celebrated It may well enough be that Temple of Apollo and Latona which Pausanias speaks of and placeth hereabouts From this antient Monument the plain Ground beginneth to enlarge it self between the Mountain Palaio-vouni and the Saronick Shoar although the Mountain and plain Ground considered together rather begins to grow narrow towards the narrowest Place of the Isthmus It makes as much cultivable Ground as the Plain of Megara but it is utterly neglected and uninhabited for fear of the Corsairs This was that Spot of Ground so much disputed for between the Athenians and Peloponnesians and afterwards by the Megarians and those of Corinth Lauribegius calls it Smedis regio and Heromelium ONEIUS Mons.
which are yellow Flowers set on the top of a Stalk like those of wild Lotus after which succeed little Cods with Seed in shape much resembling Caterpillars turn'd round together when touch'd 2. Limonium reticulatum This is a little Limonium which hath very small Leaves close to the ground but sends out several Branches a handful or two high divided and formed into many small Twigs that it much resembles a Net Whether it hath any Flower succeeding it I did not find 3. Syderitis Spinosa 4. Sicordica legitima Clusii 5. Beupleurum angustifolium 6. Prunella flore albo 7. Centaurium minus flore albo White-flower'd Centaury 8. Nasturtium marinum 9. Herniaria 10. Draba Siliquosa Caerulea Cretica 11. Doricnium Narbonense 12. Doricnium Congener Like the other only it is a shrub and perennial 13. Convolvulus rectus argenteis foliis or Cantabrica Plinii It is a small Plant of two handfuls high set here and there with narrow Silver-colour'd Leaves and on the top hath reddish Flowers like the ordinary Convolvulus 14. Polium Creticum 15. Pentaphyllium rectum Agrimoniis foliis 16. Asclepias flore albo and many others which I omit because I had observ'd them before in other places of France and Italy Hard by this Island upon the shore of Istria is Ruigna situated upon a little Peninsula and inhabited altogether by Sea-men who are most of them profess'd Pilots and for their encouragement all Ships whether Venetians or Strangers are obliged to touch there and to take a profess'd Pilot of this place to Steer them over the Flats that are before the entrance into the Venetian Harbours which are very difficult and dangerous I heard the Pilot say that conducted the Vessel I return'd in that it had sometimes but half a Foot and sometimes not above an Inch of Water below its Keel Ruigna hath a very good and secure Haven and that by nature without the help of Art The Country about it is fruitful in excellent Wines and Oyl which may be the reason that there are so many decrepit persons there strong Wine being the producer of Gouts and Sciatica's The Women wear Fardingals here after the Spanish fashion The Town is not big but seems populous and is a Bishop's see Lib. j. I. fig The next day early we parted from St. Andrè but the Sea running high although there was but little Wind which the Mariners told us was usual in those Seas about the Change of the Moon as then it was we put in at Pola about ten Miles from St. Andrè IMP. CAESARI SEPTIMIO SERVERO .. H ... PIO FELICI INVICTO AUG RESP. POL. D.N.M.E. Pola is one of the most ancient Cities of Istria Pola situated at the farther end of a little Bay which makes a most secure and spacious Port every way Land-lock'd But those that look upon the small number of its Inhabitants at present scarcely amounting to seven or eight Hundred would hardly credit its former greatness without such eminent Marks of its Antiquity as still remain That it hath been a Free-State or Commonwealth we found upon the Pedestal of a Statue of the Emperour Severus whereon is engraven the Dedication by Respublica Polensis or the Commonwealth of Pola The marks of its greatness are its Amphitheater Triumphant-Arch and Temple dedicated to Rome and Augustus Caesar Authors agree not concerning its first beginning The Poet Callimachus affirms it was a Colony of Cholcis who pursued the Argonauts by Sea whom having lost in the pursuit and not daring to return to their King they voluntarily banished themselves their Country and planted this Wherefore their City was called Pola which signifieth if we may believe Strabo a banished people Nor can they agree what way they took to come to this place Some will have it that they came by the Euxin-Sea up the Danube formerly called Ister which made them give the name of Istria to the Country they came to inhabit and that they afterwards sail'd in the Adriatick-Sea with the same Vessels a thing impossible unless they carried them upon their shoulders the Danube having no communication with the Venetian-Gulph Yet that they were a Colony of some of the Graecians may be concluded from their main money still coyned with the name of their Country in Greek Letters of which I have seen several but especially one of undoubted antiquity in the curious Collection of the Earl of Peterborough c. which hath stamped on the one side two young faces reversed to each other and on the other an Eagle preying on a Dolphin with these Letters circumscrib'd ΙΣΤΡΙΗΑ Istriea Med. 1 2. But however the Antiquities that now remain are of no ancienter date than the Roman Emperors as they themselves testifie The chief of them are these First the Temple of Augustus the front of which is sustained by four Corinthian Pillars of a curious speckled Marble and upon the Architrave is the Dedication written viz. CIT AUGUSTO CAESARI DIVI F. III. VIRI TRIBUNIC POTEST To Rome and Augustus Caesar as before said There is also the ruins of another hard by and the Dome or Cathedral Church seemeth to be built upon another by the ruins about it and ancient Stones compiled in the building The Font for holy Water hath been an ancient Fountain of white Marble four square At each side the Water flowed over and made a pretty Cascade descending by several degrees first running over Nimphs on the two opposite sides and two Scallop-shells on the other two opposite The Triumphal-Arch was built in honour of one Caius Sergius by his Wife Salvia Posthuma and was adorned with his and others of the Families Statues as may be judged by the form of it It is of the Corinthian-order of White Marble But is now become only the East-gate to the Town though formerly one of the Principal Ornaments thereof The Amphitheater is without the Town northwards and wants much of the Greatness either of that of Rome or that of Verona It is of the Tuscan-order and is judged to have had no other seats within than of wood Beside these we found some Sepulchral-Monuments of lesser note which if they be thought worth it I shall make publick hereafter It hath a Cittadel upon a Rock within the Walls but inconsiderable for strength It hath plenty of Provisions and good Water The long slip of Rocks South of it though barren enough is notwithstanding stored with many curious Plants These I observed 1. Acacia Poetarum 2. Crista galli flore purpureo 3. Trifolium Saxatile Hirsutissimum 4. Genista Montana Arborescens 5. Polygala recentiorum 6. Leucoium Patavinum 7. Pentaphyllon incanum that which Gerard gives for this hath but three leaves but this hath five 8. Cordilium Creticum 9. Secoridaca flore albo c. On Saint John Baptist's day in the morning we tried to get out of the Harbour but the Wind being contrary and higher than we thought while we were in that calm Port we were forced to
provided with Ammunition and Artillery To the Westward of it is a large place which they call the Splanade from the middle of which beginneth a large street that runneth Westward thorough the City On the right hand in this street standeth the Cathedral Church dedicated to Saint Spiridion first Bishop of that place whose Body they are perswaded they have and there with great Veneration preserve it They attribute to him the doing a Miracle about Thirty-five years since restoring the sight to a blind man who came and prayed to him prostrating himself before his Body And of this they keep an Annual remembrance ever since which happened when we were here They make profession of the Greek Religion but are in most things Latinized except in Obedience to the Sea of Rome the Infallibility of the Pope and the Procession of the Holy Spirit They have not a Greek Bishop allowed them but there is a Latin one and a Protopappa Greek This Church is well furnished with Silver Lamps and one of Gold given by a Gentleman of Corfu who by his Will left Five thousand Cichins which amount to about Three thousand pounds sterling to buy it Here are several ingenious men and moderately learned especially Cavalier Marmero who hath writ the History of this place in Italian and hath a Collection of Medals but most of them such as concern the Antiquity of the place He derives his name from the Isle Marmero in the Propontis of which his Family were once Masters He is a person of great Worth and Honour both as to his personal Qualities and his Extraction being descended of the Family Comneno Emperours of Greece This little digression Reader I owe to this Generous Friend whose name I have reason to mention with gratitude The Protopappa or Chief Priest called Panagiotti Bulgary is but young yet Learned not only in Greek but Latin He gave us some Books of the Office used in Honour of Saint Spiridion with a relation of his Life to present to the Patriarch of Constantinople Hierassimo Machi Abbot of Palaiopolis is also a Learned man who retired hither from Candia after it was surrendred to the Turks He hath a Study of a great many M. SS amongst which are twenty never yet printed as a Commentary of Origen upon the Gospel of Saint John Saint Augustin de Trinitate Translated out of Latin into Greek one of which I bought afterwards at Athens among other Manuscripts and the Sermons of Ephrem an ancient Monk He hath printed a Dictionary Tetraglot Ancient and Vulgar Greek Latin and Italian as also a Systeme of Philosophy He hath a Nephew named Arsenio Calluti who is also Learned in Latin Greek and Divinity and is esteemed a good Preacher He Studied at Padua and is now first Pappa of the Church Panthagii or All-Saints in Palaiopoli Among his Books he shewed us a Manuscript of Saint John Damascen never yet printed as I know of and is a kind of Epitome of all his Works And another being a Commentary of Ptocho-prodromus on the Hymns of the Greek Church There are also several other Learned men there as namely Dr. Cappello young but skillful in the Civil Law and in other Gentile Learning He told us he had composed a Dictionary in Vulgar Greek Latin and Italian more ample than any yet extant The Doctors Justiniani and Lupina are likewise men of esteem there But I must not forget my good Friend Signior Spiridiani Arbeniti who hath also a little Collection of very curious Medals a great lover of Antiquity and a very civil person He received us with the greatest kindness imaginable taking the pains to shew us all things that are rare in that place Sometimes he went with us a foot and at other times when need required furnished us with his own and friends Horses and always favoured us with his good company 2. The soil of Corfu is not so fruitful as to supply the Inhabitants with Corn but they are provided from the Continent from which it is separated by a narrow Streight of four or five miles over near to Cassiopa It is nevertheless fertile in Wine and Oyl and all sorts of good Fruit. We had a present sent us of Figs Filberds and Currant-grapes then scarce ripe the Figs being a large green kind they call Fracassans having in the middle a round lump of Jelly of the bigness of a Nutmeg very delicious and refreshing in the heats of Summer Here are also abundance of Oranges and Limon-Trees I found several curious Plants in this Island among others these 1. Thymus Capitatus a very rare Plant and scarce ever seen in our Parts I have furnished our Gardens with its seed but it did not come up I judg'd it to have been Savoury until I informed my self better because in smell it resembles that rather than ordinary Thyme But is undoubtedly that which Dioscorides hath deseribed under that name of Thymus 2. Lysimachia Hysopi folio 3. Scabiosa flore nigrescente caule altissimo forsan Peregrina B. 4. Cyperus Gramineus Millearius 5. Malva trimestris 6. Scammonea 7. Polium Creticum 8. Acarna flore patulo rubente 9. Stoechas odorata 10. Centaurium majus album 11. Centaurium rubens Spicatum 12. Centaurium ramosum rubens 13. Centaurium ramosum album 14. Origanum Heraclioticum 15. Vitex flore caeruleo albo 16. Consolida regalis foetida 17. Glichyriza 18. Pulegii species erecto caule Latifolio incano vel hirsuto I. He carried us one day to see the Ruins of Paloeopoli the ancient Metropolis of the Island It stood on a Promontory to the South of the present City separated from it by a little Bay of about a mile or two over The abundance of Ruins and Foundations which are to be seen there do sufficiently demonstrate it to have been so The ground it covered is almost an Island and therefore anciently called Chersopolis It had on the South-West a good large Port for Vessels of those days but now has hardly water enough for small Shallops The mouth is narrow and was secured by a Chain the place to which it was fastened being yet to be seen There has been formerly an Aqueduct to bring fresh water to it from a Spring which we saw by a Church towards the Sea-side from whence the Water was conveyed by a Channel made thorough the Rock in Earthen-Gutters of about a yard long and an inch thick apiece curiously joyned to one another whereof great quantities are found thereabouts Besides abundance of Foundations of Temples Arches Pillars and Marble Inscriptions have been dug up here and employed to build the new Fortifications of the present City Signior Marmero in his History hath given a Plane of the old City which is now covered all over with Olive-trees and here and there an old Church standing among them the two chief that still remain are Panagia of which Pappa Ulachi is Abbot and Pantagi whereof Pappa Canuti is Rector The Portal of the first
they are forced to dig them out with piked Irons and this they call Stirring When they barrel them up to send into these Parts a man getteth into the Fat with bare legs and feet and as they are brought and powred in he still keeps a stamping and treading of them down to make them lye close together They are worth here about Twelve Dollers the Thousand or little more or less and pay as much to the State of Venice for Custom The Island beareth enough of them yearly to charge five or six Vessels Cephalonia three or four and Nathaligo Mesalongia and Patras one of which some few are brought down from the Gulph of Lepanto To maintain this Trade the English have a little Factory here consisting of a Consul and five or six Merchants The Dutch have a Consul and one or two Merchants and the French have a Consul and Merchant in the same person The English have the chief Trade here and good reason they should for I believe they eat six times as much of their fruit as both France and Holland do The Zantiots have not long known what we do with them but have been perswaded that we use them only to Dye Cloth with and are yet strangers to the luxury of Christmas Pies Plum-potage Cake and Puddings c. Amongst the English Merchants is Mr. Pendames to whom I was much obliged as for other civilities so for his courtesie in shewing me the Island and in it one of the greatest curiosities that I have seen any where It is the Pitch or Tarr-Fountains of Zant. They are not above seven or eight miles from the Town But we made I believe twice as far by Sea For we had to pass about from this Port a long Promontory stretched out toward the Morea and thence to return to the Port on the other side of it In that Bay are two other little Rocks or Islands one of which is called Marathronesa or the Fennel-Island from the abundance of that Plant which groweth there called in Greek 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 In it there is only a little Church with a Caloyer or two who look to a Woman they pretend is possessed with a Devil But as my companion saith it is a foolish one For it told us that he was of Joadua though it could not speak one word of Italian nor could it tell of what Country we were or whether Married or Batchelours nor indeed make any pertinent answer but speak all in Rhime but little to the purpose The Pitch-springs rise at the foot of an high Mountain at the bottom of this Gulph about a hundred paces from the Sea The Pitch issueth out of the Earth with the water in Lumps or Balls sometimes as big as an Hasel-nut sometimes as a Wall-nut and riseth not presently to the top of the Water but in a while after doth It is like other Pitch in colour but hath a strong smell as near as I could guess like Oyl of Amber It is first soft but by lying in the Sun grows hard They gather about ninety or an hundred Barrels thereof yearly of which the State hath every Tenth which they save as it rises and Barrel it up and the owners sell the rest for two Gazets the pound which is not a half-peny English When the Wind blowed West that is over the Mountain at the foot of which this Spring lieth to the East and when there are Earthquakes it Vomiteth forth this Pitch in greater abundance than at other times Whence one may conjecture that some subterraneous fire is the cause of it which feeding upon sulphureous and bituminous matter what by reason of its small Vent it cannot devour it sends forth in this black substance The manner that I have seen Pitch made confirms me in this opinion which is thus They find some bank of ground wherein they dig a hole about two yards Diameter at ●e top but very narrow at the bottom into which they put the Wood of Pines chusing the most sappy and cleaving them into small splints then place them an end one above another until the hole is full When this is done they set all on fire at the top which by the Wood burneth still downward and as it burneth the Pitch distilleth to the bottom and so by a little hole is saved as it issueth forth Thus may this great Mountain be compared to a great Pitch-pit In the Duke of Modena's Dominions not far from his Country-house of Pleasure but nearer a Village called Sassolo is a Mountain named Zebio that sometimes burneth out in a light flame at the top like that of Vesuvius and Aetna but not with any great fierceness At the top is no hole to be seen but only a place about a yard Diameter filled with a muddy water which continually boileth up in bubbles sometimes only of air sometimes of water streaked with a greasie and sutty-colour'd substance This Water is of a white muddy colour of it self like the Soil of the Mountain which is of a whitish Freestone for the most part At the foot of this Mountain are two Springs of Oyl the one of a reddish and the other of a clear colour like ordinary Oyl Of this great part sweateth out of the Rock and part issueth out with Water and is called Petrolium in Latin and Olio Disusso in Italian Both smell alike although they be not of the same colour and both of the same smell with this of Zant. The subterraneous fire is undoubtedly the reason of this and that it is clearer and thinner of substance may be by reason that it is Filtrated thorough a more condensed matter than that of Zant But this is not peculiar to hot Countries for I received lately from Scotland an account of a Well of Oyl not far from Edenburgh with a bottle of the same Oyl from my Worthy Tutor Dr. Hicks Chaplain to his Grace the Duke of Lauderdale This is of a black colour like that of Zant but is thinner the smell neither so grateful nor so strong Beside the Curran-Grapes whereof I have already spoken and which are now ripe the Island affords other Vines that yield good though very strong Wine but which bears water so well that it may be made as small as Venetian Garbo and yet better tasted and as brisk The red Wine endures the Sea very well but the Muskatels not though they are very delicious and in great plenty here They make also abundance of excellent Oyl but it is not permitted to be Exported by Foreigners no more than the Wine only what the Island can spare is sent to Venice Here are the best Mellons I dare confidently say in the World if I may compare them with what I have eaten in England France Italy and Turky They are especially of Two kinds White and Yellow The White hath its Pulp of a pale green colour and has a perfumed taste and smell as if they were seasoned with Ambergrease Their shape is not
so long or oval as ours commonly are but a short and flat round in shape of a Boul nor are the Ribs covered with such a Fret work but smooth The Yellow ones are like the White for shape and are not known from them until opened but are not esteemed quite so good The Peaches here are extraordinary good and big w●●ghing from ten to fifteen or sixteen Ounces Here are also Citrons Oranges and Lemons in abundance One sort of Lemon is very extraordinary and seldom seen in England For beside their largeness and thinness of skin filled with excellent sharp juice they are without either seed or stone Here are also abundance of curious Plants The curious Plants I here took particular notice of are these 1. Genista seu Spartium a small shrub growing on the Cliffs bearing many Silver-colour'd leaves on little Twigs which are succeeded with a knot of small Golden flowers whose little cod or seed being pass'd the twigs that remain become sharp thorns 2. Convolvulus with a large purple flower and leaves like Sagittaria or Arrow-head This I found among the Pitch-Springs 3. Prunella Spinosa 4. Coris Matthioli G. 544. 5. Gossipium Here I first saw the Cotton Plant grow which is an Annual lant sown in Fields as we do Hemp and Flax but altogether unlike them It hath a Stalk a foot high beset with leaves like Maple divided into three sometimes four parts from among which leaves come yellow flowers like Mallows or Holly-hacks in shape set in a cup consisting of three green leaves nipped about the edges This the flower being past filleth it self up with a shell like a Nut crouded full of Cotton with two or three round seeds in it 6. Anagallis Aquatica 3tia Lob. 7. Glaux Dioscordis as hath been thought by some It is like Gramen Burgundiacum in substance and leaves and the flower also ends in branches but of a blewish purple colour which are succeeded by cods each divided into two or three round rough and flat shells joyned to each other in each of which is a seed like a Tare 8. Cistus Plantaginis folio This hath four or five leaves lying flat on the ground long hairy and sinewed like the middle kind of Plantan from which groweth a stalk of a foot high beset at several distances with smaller long leaves at the top it is divided into several branches of bright and yellow flowers with black bottoms This I found only upon Monte di Scoppo 9. Lychnis with Flowers speckled like the Strawberry-pricks 10. A small Plant like Hyssop or Savoury but thin and downy with small tender flowers on the top like Geranium not divided into leaves but a certain cup of a reddish colour full of purple veins 11. Cicerum Creticum July the Twenty-eighth after four days stay at Zant we went aboard again our former Ship called the Guerriera Costante Commanded by Captain Zoane Bronze Native of Perasto a Town in Albania He was formerly a Pirate and for his Valour well known and feared by the Turks and reverenced by the Corsairs He is esteemed one of the stoutest Soldiers the State of Venice hath in its service They tell of him that in his younger days he was at Perasto on a time when it was assaulted by a party of Two thousand Turks and they in the Town not above Fifty-nine persons yet for all that they made such vigorous resistance that they slew a great part of the Turks razed their Batteries and in conclusion made such a Valorous Excursion upon them as made them desist from their enterprize By a North-wind we put out and left the Promontory di Scoppo on the right hand but not without saluting the holy Image on the top of it for luck sake Not long after we passed the Isles Strophades called now Strovadi or Strivalli thought by the ancient Poets to be the refuge of the Harpies They are judged about Fifty miles from Zant and Thirty from the Morea very low and the biggest not above Five miles in circuit Nevertheless they report that there is such plenty of fresh water there that one cannot thrust a stick into the ground but water gusheth out in the place which makes them very fertile They also say that in the Fountains of this Isle are often found Plane-tree leaves though none grow upon the place but only in the Morea which makes them believe and not without reason that their Original is from thence and by subterraneous Channels they are brought thither Here is a Covent of about fifty or sixty Greeks in it who defend their miraculous Madonna by several Bastions planted with good Canons for fear of the Corsairs though they say the very Turks of Barbary have a respect for those Reverend Fathers and seldom put a shore here but to take in fresh water For great Ships they report it to be inaccessible except in very moderate and calm weather there being so many Flats about it and no shelter for them About Threescore miles further we doubled the Cape Sapienza anciently called on the West-side Coriph Promontorium on the East Acriti Promontorium before which lie in a row the little Islands Sapienza Carrera and Venetica well known to the Pirates of Barbary who use to skulk with their Vessels behind them attending the Barques that come out of the Gulph of Venice and others which they can master bound that way for the Levant We were not far from these Islands passing the Gulph Corone called formerly Sinus Messeniacus when a Saylor from the Main-top-Mast made Ten Sail of great Ships steering the same course as we did Upon this we fired a Gun to give notice to the Commander of our Discovery hoisting and lowring ten times our Ensign to denote the number of Sail. He immediately spared Sail and made as little way as was convenient considering a fair Nor-West Wind which we had almost a poop The like we did and with all speed prepared for an Engagement knocking down all the Cabbins and throwing Chests and Hammocks into the Hold. They loaded the Guns put out the wast-cloaths and quartered the Soldiers in their several Posts being as yet uncertain whether they were friends or enemies They suspected them to be Algerines or some other Fleet of African Pirates Some feared they were French-men in whom they had no great confidence because they had lately denied some of the French Kings Ships coming from Mesina liberty to take in Provision at Zant and therefore they knew not how it might be resented However whether Friends or Enemies they thought it not safe to trust either whereby they might be surprized It was three hours before they came up to us although they made all the Sail they could which made us believe that they were either Dutch or English Merchant-men feeing they were so flow and not Pirates or Men of VVar who use to be better Sailers But at length when they came nearer we discerned them to be Hollanders by their Ensigns which were striped of
near the Port called Therma It hath but two Villages as our Pilot who is native of the place informed us We plied still Northwards and passed between Macronisa and Suda Monday morning the Ninth we approached near Tine TENOS and dropped Anchor about noon in a Bay on the South-side thereof there being no Port on that side of the Island Tine was anciently called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 as by some Medals we found there it appeared which on one side bear the Head of Jupiter Hammon and on the other a bunch of Grapes Med. 15 16 17 18. denoting its plenty of Wine with these Letters T H. Another I saw at Paris amongst the King of France's Collections which had on the one side the Head of the Emperor Alexander Severus and on the other a Trident wreathed about with a Serpent with these Letters about it ΤΗΝΙΩΝ because here was a noble Temple dedicated to Neptune where as Strabo relateth the adjacent Islands used to perform the Ceremonies of their Religious Superstition The whole Island lieth high being a large heap of Marble Rocks but in many places covered with a fertile soil On the South-shore was its ancient City where nothing now remains but two or three houses called still 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or the City Here are some ancient Remains and an Inscription which sheweth it to have belonged to the Monument of Flavius Evergetes erected by his Wife Hence we ascended near four miles to a pointed Rock in the middle of the Island whereon now is its chief City and Castle As we passed we took notice of its plenty of Vineyards Figs and Olives They say they have Corn but not to spare rather wanting the help of other parts by reason they are so very populous this being now the only Island in the Archipelago that have defended themselves from the Turks and the last in those parts under the Dominion of the Venetians with whom the Inhabitants have made this agreement viz. That whensoever they cannot or will not protect them any longer they shall be obliged to deliver the Castle to the Inhabitants who are to have the freedom to chuse whom they will for their Protector There are Twenty-four Villages about the Island which can in time of necessity retire commodiously to this Castle it being in the midst of them and having great advantages of nature to defend it self from any sudden assault though I believe scarce able to stand out a considerable Siege for want of Water and Provision The Castle is on the highest point of the Rock surrounded by the Towns something lower than it and not only over-looketh the whole Island but almost all the Archipelago which afforded our curiosity a most delightful prospect of the same Hence to the Nor-West we saw Andros beyond that Euboea now called Negroponte by the Franks and more Westerly Zea. Beyond that Macronisa anciently Helena At a greater distance further we could discern Capo di Colouxi anciently called Promontorium Sunicum the most Southern Promontory of all Attica We saw to the Southward besides Thermia Seriphus c. two Islands they now call Sdilles or the two Deloses Rhenea and Delos to the West Micone The Inhabitants of Tine employed themselves in VVorking their own Silk and that of Andros but they are no great Artists in that Trade The women knit great part of it into Stockings and sell them very cheap Silk is worth about six or seven shillings the pound There is plenty of fresh water about the Island although not in the Town and it did therefore bear the name sometime of Hydrissa The Plants I took notice of more particularly here were these 1. Limonium or as Gerard calleth it Limonion Ger. p 412. folio sinuato or Sea-lavender with indented leaves where I believe either his Printer or he is mistaken in the naming it folio sinuato for caule sinuato 2. Another Thorny shrub which I know not under what species to rank unless Jacea It rifeth from the ground in a thick round bush its branches hard and woody dividing it self still into an infinite number of other small branches which terminate in Thorns amongst which are many jagged leaves of an Ash colour and with small scaly heads filled when blown with a stringy white flower in all respects like Jacea but much less It was now in seed but I saw it after in flower at Athens in the Spring of the year 3. A kind of small Stachys with silver leaves and 4. a kind of Genista Spinosa with red flowers which I find not any where described or mentioned Our Ships being to stay here some days to discharge themselves of the Goods of the new General of this place who if I remember rightly beareth the Title of General of the Archipelago though my companion calleth him only Proveditore and also to take in the baggage of his Predecessor who was to return to Corfu with half of our Fleet we resolved not to let so good an opportunity slip without seeing the anciently so renowned Island of Delos which we had in view not above eight or ten miles from Tine We hired a Bark with four Oars and had the company of two other Gentlemen whose curiosity was the same with ours The one was Monsieur Angrand Nephew to the French Embassador at Constantinople The other Monsieur Salli a Flemmish Gentleman and for our Guide one Signior Nicolo Crescentio of Tine D. D. who had studied at Rome and understood the History of this Country well and had often been at Delos when the antiquities thereof were not so much defaced as now they are This Gentleman with great civility offered us his company to shew us the Island The Wind being fair and a brisk gale we soon passed over to the Isle Rhencia now called Great Delos being the nearest opposite to Port Saint Nicolo where our Fleet lay and thence passing Eastward we crossed a little Bay which they say is a good Road large and deep enough for Ships of the greatest burthen From the further Cape of it we passed a Channel of about half a mile over according as Strabo affirmeth it to be to Delos Lib j Fig XII DELOS INSVLA N. SDILES This Island is but small not exceeding five or six miles about DELOS twice as long as broad lieth low but rocky and consequently barren It hath the Island Rhenia Westward the Southern parts of Micone East and the Channel between Micone and Tine to the North. It is utterly disinhabited now and called Little Delos or Zdeli in the plural number comprehending the Isle Rheneia which is a corruption of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which being not observed by Strangers hath been the occasion of mistakes in many Modern names of places in these Countries reported by our late Travellers Geographers and Mariners Now the great reason why it was so celebrated among the Ancients was because it was the reputed Birth-place of Apollo as Pindar Homer and Callimachus tell
into equal parts wherewith though we filled not our bellies yet all seemed satisfied The Doctor and one of our Watermen were not yet returned but we saved their parts But for the next meal we were very sollicitous not knowing whose turn it might first be to have his haunches cut out to serve for Venison to the rest Some went a hunting with the Flemmish Gentleman which brought his Gun and Dog with him and found good sport with the Hares and Rabbets in which this Island yet abounds being sometimes called Lagia for that reason But Monsieur Engrand and I being weary of our Mornings walks stayed by the Boat and tried some Philosophical experiments how to make fresh water and first how the Sea-water would do by passing it through sand with which we filled our Basket emptied of provisions for I rememb'red I had read some such experiment but this proved without effect After this we fell a digging on the shore at some distance from the Sea with our hands sharp stones and the ends of our spears 'till we scraped so deep that at length we found water but it was salt Our Philosophy failing after two or three hours we return'd to the Boat hot with the toyl scorched with the Sun and thirsty with tasting the salt water and so in despair of relief laid our selves down in all the shade we could make under the side of the Boat For here groweth now no Palm-trees or any other that can make one committing our selves to the mercy of the great Preserver as well as Creator of beings But to lose no time I began to recollect what Plants I had seen here Besides the abundance of Stoechas Citrina I before spake of here groweth Lentiscus or the Mastick shrub in great plenty wild upon which I observed Tears of Mastick which made us believe that if it were cultivated here as well as at Scio it might bear as well as there Doctor Crescentio who knew that there was water in the Island and therefore resolved never to give over looking untill he had found some came within an hour after with this most welcome news that he had sound a Cistern of water this made us all though Greeks Romans English French Dutch and as differing in Religion as in Country agree in one to give praise to our great Preserver Not long after returned our hunters with a Rabbet and some Birds So all together we went with the Mariners about a mile from thence to the top of a little hill to the North-East of the Island where the ground riseth a little higher then the Theater with Ruins round it and hath on the top of all a little hollow place wherein is a small hole broken into a large Arched Cistern only big enough for a man to descend through by a Rope For the water is not directly under the hole but in a further corner not easily seen the Cistern being much filled with rubbish It proved excellent water This I have been larger upon than ordinary lest some whose curiosity should lead them thither may have the same need of it as we had Having filled all the Vessels we had we returned cheerfully to our Boat to prepare our Venison for supper which with a Loaf Monsieur Spon had laid by for a good time we eat heartily and with no little satisfaction not doubting but he that did this would when he saw it convenient for us still the winds and raging of the Sea also After this we made a great fire on the hill of Staechas Citrina and such other combustible stuff as we found there to give notice to our Vessel that we wanted help This done we laid our selves down as the Night before but with no great mind to rest Before day we found the wind much abated and in effect a calm Sowe took the opportunity and put out to Sea and although it ran high yet the wind being low by great providence we passed safe the Chanel about four miles over to the Port and Town of Micone Micone is so called by the Franks and was by the Ancient Greeks and is yet by the Modern called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Micone The Poets fancied this to be the Burying place of the Centaurs conquered by Hercules It is not so far distant from Delos as Ferrarius in his Dictionary assureth it being but four miles at the most Between it and Delos is a Scoglio called by the Franks Dragonera by the Greeks Tragonisi that is the Island of Goats Micone hath a good and large harbour towards the West-side of it is rather bigger than lesser then Tine and may have twenty five or thirty miles in circumference It is fruitful in Wine and Corn especially Barley and is well peopled and by Christians only but now under the protection of the Turks Their Governour is a Christian sent by the Turks from Constantinople Monsieur Bandrond is therefore mistaken who hath augmented the Dictionary of Ferrarius to put it under the Venetians I had no information whether it ever were or when taken by the Turks Perhaps it was slighted in the War of Candia because not tenable For they have but one Town without any Fortifications by nature or art which lieth within the harbour There is about thirty Greek Churches and only one Latin in the Town They pay to the Turk a tribute which he sendeth for yearly but as to the true Sum I know not how to decide the difference between my Companions Memoirs and my Journal For he saith it is Three Thousand and Six Hundred Dollers but I have noted only that they present the Turk as often as he sendeth his Gallies Two Hundred Dollers besides the mischief they suffer from them in their Figs and Vineyards Perhaps the first claimed as a duty to the grand Signior and the last only as a present to the Carathi who with great greediness extort presents for themselves where ever they come The greatest part of the Inhabitants are Pyrats and this place is a great Staple for their prey Here they keep their Wives Children and Mistresses The greatest part of the Town seems to consist of Women who deservedly have a greater reputation for Beauty then Chastity the Men being most of them abroad seeking their Fortunes Our Captain had here a Seraglio of them when he was a Corsaire in these Seas as I before mentioned But those being now antidated he was for new game at his coming hither and therefore found out a pretty young Virgin for his Mistress which he bought of her Brutal Father as provision for his Voyage to Constantinople The History of the taking her I will not let pass without relating it because I was by accident at the Rape of this fair Helena The Admiral of our little Fleet unexpectedly hoisting Sail before he had brought her aboard he sent his long Boat to fetch her away by some of his trusty Servants I having left something ashore where I Lodged begged leave of
Protection the Fourth General Council was assembled and held at Chalcedon wherein the Heresies of Eutyches and Dioscorus were condemned and the Verity of the Divine and Humane Nature of Christ without Confusion of Substance was asserted This Pillar is now standing in the Court of a private House joyning to the Bath of Ibrahim Basha near the Odas of the Janizaries which is about Mid-way between the Hippodrome and Adrianople Gate not far from the great Street When we were in this part of the Town THE JANIZARIES QUARTERS we went to see the Quarters of the Janizaries which are two great Buildings near together without any great Beauty or Ornament but capable of receiving of a great number of Men where all that Order ought to inhabit together and live Batchellors But now they leave off the strictness of that Discipline great part of them having only their Names enrolled in their Books and receive the Grand Signior's Pay but Marry follow Trades and reside in their own Houses up and down the Town They are two oblong Courts with a small Mosque or Chappel in the middle of them where those that reside there daily do their Devotions Instead of Inns in Constantinople KANS. and indeed all over Turkey they have publick Buildings they call Karavan Serais or Kans erected in convenient Parts of the City for the Markets and Traffick of different Commodities These are for all Men of what Quality Condition Country or Religion soever and there the Poorest have room to lodge in and the Richest have no more As to their Beds and Entertainment they must bring and provide them themselves or lodge on the Floor or at most on a Mat which in some Kans the Kan-keeper is obliged to provide They are of two sorts the old Fashion ones are but like a great Barn without any Partitions or Distinctions of Rooms or Lodgings They have only round the Wall a Bank raised about a Foot and half high from the Ground kept from falling down by a Wall of the same height paved on the Top and about seven or eight Foot broad At four or five Yards distance round the Wall are placed small Chimneys Between which they lay their Beds tying their Horses and giving them Meat at their Feet But the other Kans of later Building and in great Cities are more stately they are usually built in the Form of a Quadrangle with Two and sometimes Three Stories one above the other covered with so many Leaded Cuppaloes as it is divided into Appartments of about ten Foot square where each Company keep their Concerns private to themselves with as great Convenience as their manner of Life will permit And about them there are commonly Attendance who for a small Vale will provide you such things as you have Occasion for So many Stories as they are high so many Galleries are built one above another round the Kan into which these little Chambers open These Kans look very stately without and are not ungrateful to the Sight within They are usually built of Stone having a large Gate to enter into them and in the middle of the Area is built a small Mosque or Chappel to do their Devotion in supply'd with Water both for Religious and Necessary Uses In my Opinion they might be accommodated to the Use of our Christian Countries For the generality of Inns Taverns and Ale-houses are grown such Places of all manner of Debaucheries that I am sure they are become the Shame of our Religion if not of the Policies of most Christian Countries For they not only harbour Prophaneness Luxury and Debauchery but are the Receptacles of idle and slothful Persons and indeed of Out-lanes Thieves and Robbers Their Keepers extorting for their Entertainment Rates without Reason or Modesty and in a word are the Destruction of the Souls Bodies and Estates of many Thousands not only of Poor but Rich also and when all this is done they oftner die Beggars than Rich Men themselves Whereas if such Places as these were erected in convenient Places of the Roads in Cities and in Market-Towns and put into the Hands of honest poor Men to serve Strangers Travellers and Tradesmen Poor Men might do their Business with greater Expedition and less Charge carry home their Gains to their Wives and Children and not spend them before they return from Market Here Rich Men might have provided for the necessary Conveniences of their Journeys without Extravagances have Opportunity to be Charitable and by their Examples of Devotion and Christian Behaviour give Glory to God their Creatour and mighty Redeemer especially if they had Chappels and Chaplains with a convenient Stipend annexed to them The Exchange which they call the Bazar or Bezestan BAZAR is also a Beautiful Building roofed with Cuppalo's covered with Lead sustained by many Arches and Pillars within and is situate toward the Western part of the City The chief Trade in it consisting in Fur-Gowns Vests fine Saddles and Bridles Semiters and other Armour We soon wished our selves out of it it was so crouded with Brokers that sold old Cloaths we apprehended were of those who dyed of the Plague The Publick Bagnios or Baths BAGNIOS are none of the smallest Ornaments of this City These are usually placed near their Mosques because they use them in cleansing themselves according to their Superstition as well as for the Health of their Bodies being their chief Remedy in all their Diseases as really they are the best Physick of their Country We went to see only one of these near the Mosque of the Sultan's Mother because the Plague was so much in the City and these much frequented by the Infected They have a Room without with a Sopha round it to undress themselves and a large square Room beyond that covered with a Cuppalo thorough which the Light is let by Bell-glasses and about it are many little Appartments covered with small Cuppalo's much resembling that built in London only they have usually a great Bason in the Middle filled with hot Water into which they go to bathe themselves We crossed the Water one day to see the Antient Aqueduct OLD AQUEDUCT that joyns the two Hills together on which the Mosques of Suleman and Bajazet stand of which we had a fair Prospect from Gallata It is built strong and high with large Arches one above the other in the deepest part of the Valley but is now dis-joyned from the Eastern Hill and of no present Use The Water being now conveyed about the City by Pipes under Ground But the Aqueducts that bring the Water to the City are very Magnificent of which more hereafter We took a Barge another day and went to see the Seven Towers SEVEN TOWERS as they call a Castle situate in that Angle of the City nearest the Propontis because it bath so many eminent Spired Towers In our way we put a Shore on the Seraglio point where towards the Bosphorus is a Plat-form planted with a
great many Cannons the Spoils taken in their Wars from the Christians and Persians some we observed with such a vast Bore as are capable to fling Stones of near ten foot diameter Near this Point we observed several Rocks and Shelves lying but little below the Surface of the Water which must needs be very dangerous to any Vessels that either by the Wind or Current shall be drove upon them When we came to the Seven Towers we were not permitted Entrance by reason that a Knight of Malta had made his Escape thence not long before whereupon it was ordered that no Franck should enter there any more We were only permitted to go round it and all we observed was an antient Gate looking towards the Propontis adorned with Basso-relievo's on oblong Tables of white Marble On one is the Fall of Phaeton on another Hercules fighting with a Bull on another Hercules in combat with Cerberus and on another Venus coming to visit Adonis sleeping with some others we knew not what they signified This Gate is now quite stopped up and no Entrance that way Hard by over a little Gate of the City which from the Bosphorus leads to the Seven Towers we observed this Inscription with the Letters curiously joyned to each other in knots hardly to be explicated ΑΝΕΚΑΙΝΙΣΘΕ ΕΠΙ ΒΑΣΙΛΕΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΚΟΝΣΤΑΝΤΙΝΟΥ ΤΩΝ ΠΟΡΦΥΡΟΓΕΝΝΗΤΩΝ Π ΘΙΛΟΧΡΙΣΤΩΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΩΝ ΔΕΣΠΟ ΤΩΝ ΠΕΝ ΕΤΕ Κ. Φ. Κ. Α. † Which imports that the Gate was rebuilt by Basilius and Constantine Porphyrogenites Emperours in Christ the year This Place looks not strong enough for a Castle but is sufficiently so for a Prison which is the Imployment they now put it to and that only for great Men or great Malefactors like the Tower of London So soon as our Convenience would permit PATRIARCH AT BALLATA we went to wait on the Patriarch of Constantinople who was then named Parthenius to deliver him the Present of Books which we had received from the Protopappa of Corfu for him and to see in what state so great a Prelate of the Church lived and was reduced to His Palace and Church is at a quarter of the Town called Ballata which must not be mistaken for Gallata It is situated near the Western Corner of Constantinople adjoyning to the Harbour and is allotted to the Patriarch and Greek Christians We saluted him at his coming out of the Church according to the Greek Custom with low Reverence kissing his Hand or Chappelet first putting it to the Mouth and then to the Fore-head His usual Habit differeth not from the ordinary Caloyers or Monks of the Order of St Basil out of which the Bishops and Patriarchs are chosen it being a black serge Cassock or Vest down to the ground a black Cap with a black Cypress or curled Scarf wound about it as the other Bishops and Egoumeno's or Abbots often do wear He liveth but obscurely his Palace being no better than the worser sort of our Parsonage Houses The Patriarchal Church is but a small obscure Edifice without any great Ornament or Beauty For the Greek Church is trampled upon here as well as in all other the Turkish Dominions They keep in it part of the Pillar they say our Saviour was tied to when scourged by Pontius Pilate The Patriarchs depend on the Grand Signior both as to their Spiritual and Civil Jurisdiction For they are likewise Judges in Civil Matters between Christian and Christian They buy this Dignity dear and possess it with great hazard Yet so ambitious are the Greek Clergy of it that the Bishops are always buying it over one anothers Heads from the Grand Vizier who desires no better Sport than to see them strive who shall bring most Grists to his Mill. They purchase this Dignity with very great Sums of Money which are again to be pressed out of the poor Greek Christians and when obtained it is no longer secured to them than till the Ambition of another Bishop offers more for it or impeacheth this Incumbent with Crimes sufficient for a Pretext to dispossess him Which the Vizier greedily catcheth at right or wrong to the Ruin of the present Possessor Yet the Bishops are still canvasing for it insomuch that in the space of five Years they had changed the Patriarch five times some of them being executed and others having made their Escape of whom I saw one at Zant and another they say is at Smyrna The Authority which they thus obtain by Simony they maintain by Tyranny For as soon as they are promoted they send to all their Bishops to contribute to the Sum they have disbursed for their Preferment and such as deny they depose and send others to their Charge Again the Bishops send to their inferiour Clergy who are forced to do the same to the poor People or to spare it out of their Wives and Childrens Mouths But many times they engage for more than they can perform and bring the Church so much in debt to the Turk that its Ruin is daily threatned thereby which without God's great Mercy uphold it cannot long subsist I was informed that Patriarch Parthenius was then owing fifty Purses of Dollers each Purse containing five hundred which amounteth to twenty five thousand making in English Money about six thousand pound which to raise in the great Poverty that Church is in will be a greater difficulty to him than it was to be made Patriarch We had but a short Conference with his All holiness which is the Title they give him in Discourse viz. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 As to their ordinary Bishops they say 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 your All-priestship or 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 your Beatitude and to every inferiour Priest 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 your Holiness c. We desired to see his Library hoping to find many good Manuscripts in it But he informed us That he had but few or no Books at all though in a Paper-shop hard by his Door we bought about twenty or thirty antient Greek Manuscripts of which I may perhaps at some other time give the World an Account It would be pertinent in this Place to give some short View of the State and Religion of this Church But that Subject having been so amply and ingenuously handled by Mr. Smith and Mr. Ricaut I shall only at present make some Remarks on their Opinion of the Eucharist which has been so much and long controverted between late Writers of the Romish and Protestant Church and that I shall do with the same Sincerity and Frankness as I had my Informations from Bishops Caloyers and other Religious Men of that Communion with whom I conversed in several places of my Journey The Eucharist or Holy Communion is the Sacrament in which they shew most of their Devotion it being the chiefest Part of their Religious Worship wherein they express the whole Mystery of the Gospel as the Death Passion Resurrection and Ascension of Jesus Christ into Heaven Lib II. Fig VIII
round like That But perhaps it may be a kind of it I observed nothing of the Smell nor did I see the Flower But the Root is hard and woody Near the Town in the High-way groweth Periploca Latifolio in great plenty differing from that which Gerard describeth page 902. only that towards the ground it is of a shrubby Substance We finding Mr Cary as the Doctor thought in a mending Condition but that it would not be possible for him in many days to travel such a Journey we at last resolved to proceed in ours and leave him to God's Blessing and under Him to the care of Dr Covel his Spiritual Physician and the Armenian his Acquaintance and two Men their Servants But not long after we came to Smyrna we heard of his Death not without suspicion of a malignant Distemper brought with him from Constantinople So that Wednesday the thirteenth of October we parted thence but not above a Mile out of Town that Evening to Capligi where are the Baths of natural hot Waters but adorned with noble Structures of Marble over them covered with Cuppaloes of Lead It being Afternoon the time when the Women bathe only the Men in the Forenoon we could not enter into the Chiefest Only into one built by the Piety of a potent Man of the Country with Lodgings to it commodious for the use of Strangers The Basin of which is not great but of Marble and covered with a Cuppalo with Bell-Glasses here and there to let in the Light but not the Air. The Doctor and I concluded That the Water here is much hotter than ours in England it not being possible to be endured without tempering it with cold Water I was surprized the next Morning when I came to get on Horseback that I had no Bridle For not knowing their Custom I had forgot to put it into my Bargain which was three Dollars a Horse to Smyrna But I made our Guide to get me one before I would part thence But as my Companion observeth I learned afterwards in Greece to be less nice For there we were sometimes mounted like Marcus Aurelius in the Capitol without Bridle or Saddle However we parted before it was day and having rid through a plain South-west from this place part being well tilled and part Pasture stocked with Cows Horses and Boufalos a sort of Cattle not much differing from Oxen only they love the Water better and are much worse Meat but labour extreamly well We staid to bait our selves at a little Greek Village but not our Horses for they are accustomed to travel all day without it in Turkey After Dinner we proceeded still through a Country much of the same Nature with that in the Morning only here and there some little Hills that gave us good Prospects of the other parts of the spacious Campagne This day we met with half a dozen of Horse-men which we took to be Robbers and not without reason as we were afterwards informed But with our Janizary we took from Constantinople and the Doctor 's and Mr Bernardiston's Men we were seven of us well armed besides our Guides So that we were not afraid of a greater force than theirs An hour and an half or two Hours we went along not far distant at our left hand a fine Lake as we judg'd it about twenty five Miles long and about seven or eight broad through which the River Ascanius runneth as we then judged and the Lake it self to have been so called also but I rather believe it to be the Rhyndicus RHYNDICUS fl It is sull of little Islands and one good large one on which is a considerable Village of Greeks At last we came to the Banks of the River which here runneth Westwards along which I found the Glycyrrhiza Echinata or Hedgehog Licorice described by Gerard 13●0 I took notice that it had here a sweet Smell About three or four Miles from the Mouth of the Lake we arrived in about six Hours time to Lubat Lubat is situated on the other side of the River LUBAT that cometh out of the Lake which we passed over to by a Wooden Bridge But there are the Ruins of one of Stone hard by The River is here large and deep and goes hence as they say to meet with the Granicus My Companion calleth it Lupadi But as they pronounced it after the Turkish manner I took it to be Lubat He adding That Nicetas Choniâtes called it in the thirteenth Century Lupadium It hath without doubt been an antient City as the Fragments of Antiquity that lay carelesly up and down every where viz. Pillars Chapters c. or confusedly placed in the Walls do testifie The Walls were undoubtedly built by the Greek Emperours and yet are standing in a square Figure with Bastions every fifteen or twenty paces one Hexagon and the other Triangular But the South-wall Bastions are all Triangular or Cone-fashion I suppose against the Inundations of the River Whether Ferrari calleth it rightly Apollonia I do not determin But I am sure they place this Lake too near the Propontis and this City also on the wrong side of the Lake and indeed are wrong in placing it at all upon the Lake For it is upon the River about three or four Miles after it cometh out of the Lake and about five or six and thirty Miles from Prousa ad Olympum We lodged here at a Greek Fisher-Man's House who presented us with an admirable Carp take out of the River whereof it aboundeth weighing as we judged at least a dozen pound There are excellent Trouts also as the Doctor informed us he had often eaten here Friday the fifteenth we parted from Lubat early making South-wards and after seven Hours riding through the fruitful Plains of Mysia we baited at a Well near a small Village called Shettiqui We were diverted this Morning by a Haga sent as an Inquisitor after the Thieves we met with the Morning before He had at least a dozen of Servants and Friends that waited upon and accompanied him But he seemed to be better prepared to hunt Hares and Partridges than to catch Thieves For he had two brace of Grey-hounds with him and a Hawk He joyned very civilly with us and after some discourse invited us to take part of his Sport which we did he still hunting along our way in the Corn-fields We had good sport both in Coursing and Hawking We chaced three Hares and killed one and had a flight after a Partridge but without success After this he invited us to Dinner with him which our Doctor and Merchant excused being jealous of Turkish Kindness Here I first took notice That the Turkish Grey-hounds differ from ours having their Heads and Ears like a Spaniel but otherwise well made to run After we had baited we pursued our way over several Plains and Hills which often afforded us a most delightful Prospect of Mount Olympus that had now contracted it self into a much less compass proportioned
Mouth which he placeth between Parium and Lampsacus emptying it self into the Propontis nor yet of the River Aesopus Wherefore these may be esteemed some other Rivers of Phrygia or Mysia Minor or Hellespontick Mysia which I suppose to be extended until the Mountain by the Iron-Gate or Mount Timnus now mentioned Whence also I believe Mysia major begins and reacheth unto the Mountain by Thyatira Thirdly This River at Mandragorai abovementioned is most probably the Caicus whose Fountain Ptolomy putteth in the same Latitude with the Rhyndicus but not in the same Longitude and Strabo makes the Caicus to pass through the best part of Mysia before it comes to Pergamo But this by the way I was going to tell what Plants I found by it in my Walk this Evening 1. PLANTS AT MANDRAGORAL Scordium Lanuginosum sive Creticum Downy or Candy Scordion 2. Alsine Lotoides sive Anthylloides sive Spergulae facie C. Bauhinus 3. Gingidium Hispanicum which the Spaniards call Visnago in great esteem among them for Tooth-picks as Dr Pickering informed me when he shewed it me growing all over these Countries The next morning we parted thence and soon passed the River Whence up and down in a rough Mountainous Country we travelled till about three in the Afternoon when we arrived at a Village under a Mountain called Courougouli or the Dry Lake For the Plain round about in Winter is filled with Water like a Lake and in the Summer is dry Plants here observed were 1. PLANTS AT COUROUGOULI Leucoium Alyfsoides clypeatum majus C. Bauhin Dioscorides Gerard page 465. Mine agreeth well with common Moonwort only the Leaves of it as it groweth bigger put out here and there a little Angle and grow round about it near the ground in a Tuft Whence it sendeth but a single Stalk as I observed in most of them set with oval Shields c. and the whole Plant very woolly like Woollen Cloth as it yet remaineth in my Book But that change may happen through Alteration of Climate Lib III. Fig IIII Origanum Spicatum montis Sipyli folijs glabris W 2. But the Plant which pleased me most to see here was a most beautiful kind of Origanum with long purple Flowers Mr. Merchant calleth it Origanum Heracleoticum Flore purpureo But Dr. Morison much better hath named it Origanum spicatum It is an Origanum different from any that hath been seen in our parts From black stringy and creeping Roots rise up many downy round Stalks beset in pairs of Leaves at first somewhat downy and ribbed with such small Ribs as are hardly perceiveable to the Touch. The Shape is round near the Stem and endeth in a sharp point like the small Myrtle These shoot a foot and half or two foot high from the Ground the Stalk and Leaves growing smooth and towards the top in pairs it sendeth out very small Twigs which end in a scaly Flower like a Hop sometimes near an inch long and of a light purple colour between whose scales come small Purple Flowers When they are bruised they send forth a weak Scent something resembling Stoecas Arabicus I found it both in Flower and Seed with which I have furnished several Gardens And it flourisheth now very well at Oxford The next day we passed over a good high Mountain whence we had the Prospect of a large Plain East of us and came very early to Basculumbai a Village of about two or three hundred Houses BASCULUMBAI having a Kan and three Mosques also We lodged at an Acquaintance of the Doctor 's a Turk that made as much of us as he could This place tradeth much in Cotton I took notice of the Instrument they separate the Seed from the Cotton with which is only two Rowls one of Wood about two or three inches diameter and another small one of Iron set in a frame so as to rouch one another each of which being turn'd round the other turneth also and letteth the Cotton pass between as it goeth about but leaveth the round Seeds behind Here I observed a little River which may fall into the Caicus Thursday the Nineteenth of October we parted hence early in the morning and about a Mile from the Town left the common Road to Smyrna on the right hand and passed through a pleasant Country mixed with Woods and Pastures until we came to a Mountain stretched out in length East and West yet not very high It hath a Gap in the middle through which we passed along a Stream great part of which is carried in Aqueducts under-ground to Thyatira This Mountain is supposed to part Mysia major and Lydia To defend this Passage on the right hand a good height are the Ruins of an old Castle called by the Turks Akeisar or White Castle as they do also now call Thyatira which we saw from hence over a Plain about two Miles further South and arrived thither about Noon Thyatira is a very antient City in Lydia or in the Confines of Mysia a Colony of the Macedonians according to Strabo situate almost in the mid-way between Pergamo and Sardis in a very delightful Plain But since more famous in Holy Writ being one of those Churches of Asia the Son of God vouchsafed to write to by the Holy Apostle St John THYATIRA shewing them what they must look for if they did not reclaim themselves from the Fornication with which they were polluted through the perswasion of some who taught them to eat Meats offered unto Idols thereby to dissemble the Truth Upon which warning how well they reformed is uncertain But certain that Christianity is almost extinct in this place there being not above ten Christians in the Town destitute both of Church and Priest Their Patience and Suffering undoubtedly is great among that disproportionable number of Infidels For the Town is very populous in Turks and may contain four or five thousand Souls It s antient Temporal as well as Spiritual Beauty is destroyed its Marble Buildings are buried in their own Ruins Houses built of Clods of Earth and dried in the Sun only remaining and it s once glorious Name obliterated Insomuch that a very little while ago none knew where it was to be found nor where it did stand Some thought with the ignorant Greeks that it was Tyreth a Town South-East of Ephesus about twenty Miles where they pretend they have the Apocalypse of St John's own writing as I have heard Until the Curiosity and Piety of the English Consul of Smyrna Mr Ricaut with several of the Merchants whose Devotions were raised by their Minister Mr Lake gave a Period to this gross Errour by finding this to be the antient Thyatira For they met with many Inscriptions here where the name Thyatira is mentioned of which all we could find being a dozen we copied with as great exactness as we could which gave us a great deal of News of this Place The first we were shewed was at a kind of
bigness When it was dead we tied a string about the Throat that no Water could pass down the Belly and tried how much Water this Bag would hold We had a wooden Kan there whose Dimensions were these The Top Three Inches and One Nineth Part Diameter The Bottom Six Inches and One Seventh Part Diameter Deep Ten Inches and One Fifth Part. Five of these Kans of Water we put into the Bag using no other Art to make it stretch than meerly the weight of the Water as we filled it which I verily judge to have been in the whole no less than ten or a dozen Quarts After this we opened it and found the Throat down to the Breast large enough to swallow a Carp of a foot long thence to the Gizzard but small The Gizzard is not of a round fleshy substance as other Fowls but near half a Foot long and an Inch and Quarter Diameter of a thicker substance than the rest of the Guts before or after The Lungs of a skinny Substance sticking fast on each side to the Ribs but a little red In its Gizzard were many live small Worms which I know not whether it were his Meat or his Disease The Blood and Flesh were very black and therefore I suppose very bad Meat They are in vast numbers all about these Seas as well as at Smyrna The Greeks say With these Bags they carry Fish and Water to their Young Ones in the Mountains where they breed Another day walking abroad I found one of those Tree-Froggs TREE-FROGGS which I met with and only mentioned at Ephesus The Greeks call it Spordaca Both of those which I saw were small in shape like others but of a deep green colour like a green Wallnut and when it lies close to the Ground resembles the better half of a Wall-nut lying flat For then it doubleth its Feet so close under it that it seemeth one entire piece The Nature of this Frogg is much different from that of others For those delight to be still on the Ground among Grass or in the Water whereas this kind delights to climb Trees Bushes and Shrubs and to sit chirping upon them For which purpose also Nature hath made Provision its Toes ending in a little round Knob like a Pins-head out of which issueth such a clammy Substance that leaping from Bough to Bough like a Squirrel wheresoever it toucheth with any of its Feet it hangeth and gets up its whole Body as I often tried I did not perceive that it held by grasping with its Feet as Birds and Squirrels do but only sticking by that clammy Substance to the smoothest Leaves I kept one several days with us upon a Bough of Lentiscus sticking the Bough into the Wall I put it into the Water and found it would swim like other Frogs but made all the haste imaginable to be out of that colder Element and never offered to dive under Water at all To see how it will recover it self by one Foot touching a Bough or Leaf is very wonderful and almost past Belief From the Mountains here run down many Streams and pass into the Sea within the Gulph And between Patras and the Promontory Drepanum which is within the Gulph of Lepanto Pausanias mentions four Rivers and a Fountain but somewhat confusedly for want of distinguishing which are without and which are within the Promontory Rhion The first is the River Milichus which I spake of already at Patras which riseth among the Hills behind the Town and falleth into the Sea South-Westwards of it The next is the River Charadrus which I place within the Promontory Rhion because I observed no Stream between Patras and the Castles and the Fountain Argyra which is within the Castles next following it To this River Charadrus the Country round about used to bring their Cattle in the Spring to drink believing that their Young Ones would be much the larger for it The Fountain Argyra I suppose is that which I mentioned within the Promontory Rhion or the Castles about a Mile near the little Hut I said we staid at so long expecting a Wind. And the River Selemnus one of those Streams next to it which Pausanias saith The Patrassians believed would cure those in Love that washed themselves therein Which was the Gift of Venus to it pitying the Shepherd Selemnus forsaken by the inconstant Nymph Argyra when his Blooming Youth began to decay Next to this he mentions the River Bolinaeus the chaste Nymph that gave Name to which being pursued by Apollo wilfully threw her self into the Sea head-long to avoid his foul Embraces I observed that Terebinthus grows not large here but bears Cods of Opobalsamum CHARADRUM There grows abundance of Myrtle here also and a sort of Iris with Leaves like Grass and a curious Azure-coloured Flower The Wind continuing yet contrary after eleven days stay in this miserable Hole we began to be so weary that we did not know how to dispose of our selves and considering what was to be done to deliver us from these tedious Passages by Sea in which we found we had no good Fortune we concluded to go back to Mr Pendarves at the Ship and furnish our selves with so much Money as would carry us quite through Greece to Vienna where I ordered Letters of Credit to meet us Therefore we made a Bargain with our Patron Dervish Haly to carry us thither So we hoised Sail and came that Evening under the Mountain Galata I before mentioned Here we found another Barque that had staid eight days for the same Wind that we wanted in a little Bay that stands in the Lee under this Mountain from which issueth a Spring of very good fresh Water The Greeks call it Crio Nero or the Cold Water for they say It is very cold in the Summer Perhaps this was in former Times the Callirrhoe of the Antients The Flower Tithymalus Spinosus Lib IIII Though it began to be dark I made shift to clamber up the side to the Rock and gathered a bundle of Herbs among which when I came into the Barque I found a kind of Spurge I had not before seen It is a Shrub that groweth in a small round Bush of a Foot high spreading infinitely into Branches until it bends every way down to the Ground and is every way guarded with Bunches of Thorns at the top among which spring up young tender Branches full of small Leaves shaped like Hypericon full of Milk and on the top Knots of Flowers like the other Tithymaus the Stems of which I judge to grow hard and turn into Thorns This I saw afterwards in many Parts of Greece in the Plains of Athens and on the Isthmus There groweth Fust also or Yellow-wood used to dye with called by the Greeks Chrysoxulo or Golden-wood The next Morning early we came to the Ship to Mr Pendarves where having dispatched our business we refreshed our selves and the next day the Wind favouring of us we crossed over to
There is a small Ridge of a Hill running along in the middle of it that I should not have taken notice of had not Thucydides put me in mind of it calling it Mons Oneius situate between the Port Cenchre and Cromium which hindred that part of the Corinthian Army left at Cenchre from seeing how things pass'd at Cromium with the other part of their Forces who had joyned Battle with the Athenians until by the Dust that was rais'd in the Air by means of the Engagement they had notice thereof CENCHRAEA Portus Cenchraeus was in a Bay which lieth below the Ruins of the Town Isthmus and is yet called by that Name Kenchre which they pronounce Chencri Hereabouts the Isthmus is not above four or five Miles over from one Sea to the other But nearer to Corinth there is a Village they call Hexmillia because there the Isthmus is six Miles over ISTHMUS We were here shewed the Place where in antient time they began to cut a Chanel through the Isthmus to joyn the two Seas together But were forbidden to proceed in their Work by the Oracle We alighted to visit the Ruins of that famous Place where the Isthmian Games were celebrated which was on the Hill being part of Mount Oneius before mentioned There are yet to be seen the Ruins not only of the Town old Walls and several old Churches but also the Remains of the Isthmian Theater Here were many more Temples and excellent Edifices mentioned by Pausanias and many more he gives no Account of we learned from a very fine Inscription we found half way in the Ground by a little ruined Church Which speaks of many Temples Gardens and Portico's repaired by one Publius Licinius Priscus Juventianus ΘΕΟΙΣ ΠΑΤΡΙΟΙΣ ΚΑΙ ΤΗ ΠΑΤΡΙΔΙ Π. ΛΙΚΙΝΙΟϹ ΠΙΑΙΜ ΠΡΕΙϹΚΟϹ ΙΟΥΟΥΕΝΤΙΑΝΟϹ ΑΡΧΙΕΡΕΥΣ ΔΙΑ ΒΙΟΥ ΤΑϹ ΚΑΤΑ ΤΟΙϹ ΑΠΟ ΤΗϹ ΟΙΚΑΥΜΕΝΗϹ ΕΠΙ ΤΑ ΙϹΘΜΙΑ ΠΑΡΑΓΕΝΟ ΜΕΝΟΙϹ ΑΘΛΗΤΑΙϹ ΚΑΤΑϹΚΕΥΑϹΕΝ Ο ΑΥΤΟϹ ΚΑΙ ΤΟ ΠΑΛΑΙΜΟΝΙΟΝ ΤΟΙϹ ΠΡΟϹ ΚΟϹΜΗΜΑϹΙΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΟ ΕΝ ΑΓΙΟΤΗΡΙΟΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΗΝ ΙΕΡΑΝ ΕΙϹΟΔΟΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΥϹ ΤΩΝ ΠΑΤΡΙsΟΗΝ ΘΕΩΝ ΒΩΜΟΥϹ ϹΥΝ ΤΩ ΠΕΡΙ ΒΟΛΩ ΚΑΙ ΠΡΟΝΑΩ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΥϹ ΕΝ ΚΡΙΤΗΡΙ ΟΥϹ ΟΙΚΟΥϹ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΥ ΗΛΙΟΥ ΤΟΝ ΝΑΟΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΟ ΕΝ ΑΥΤΩ ΑΓΑΛΜΑ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΝ ΠΕΡΙΒΟΥΛΟΝ ΔΕ ΤΟΝ ΠΕΡΙΒΟΥΛΟΝ ΤΗϹ ΙΕΡΑϹ ΝΑΠΗϹ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΥϹ ΕΝ ΑΥΤΗ ΝΑΟΥϹ ΔΗΜΗΤΡΟϹ ΚΑΙ ΚΟΡΗϹ ΚΑΙ ΔΙΟΝΥϹΙΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΑΡΤΕΜΙΔΟϹ ϹΥΝ ΤΟΙϹ ΕΝ ΑΥΤΟΙϹ ΑΓΑΛ ΜΑϹΙΝ ΚΑΙ ΠΡΟϹΚΟϹΜΗΜΑϹΙΝ ΚΑΙ ΠΡΟΝΑΟΙϹ ΕΚ ΤΩΝ ΙΔΙΩΝ ΕΠΟΙΗϹΕΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΥϹ ΝΑΟΥϹ ΕΥΕΤΗΡΙΑϹ ΚΑΙ ΚΟΡΗϹ ΚΑΙ ΤΟ ΠΛΟΥ ΤΩΝΕΙΟΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΑϹ ΑΝΑΒΑϹΕΙϹ ΚΑΙ ΤΑ ΑΝΑΛΗ ΜΑΤΑ ΥΠΟ ϹΕΙϹΜΩΝ ΚΑΙ ΠΑΛΑΙΟΤΗΤΟϹ ΔΙΑ ΛΕΛΥΜΕΝΑ ΕΠΑϹΚΕΥΑϹΕΝ Ο ΑΥΤΟϹ ΚΑΝ ΤΗΝ ϹΤΩΑΝ ΤΗΝ ΠΡΟϹ ΤΩ ϹΤΑΔΙΩ ϹΥΝ ΤΟΙΣ ΚΕΚΑΜΑ ΡΩΜΕΝΟΙϹ ΟΙΚΟΙϹ ΚΑΙ ΠΡΟϹ ΚΟϹΜΗΜΑϹΙΝ ΑΓΟΡΑ ΝΟΜΙΑϹ ΑΝΕΘΗΚΕΝ The chief of which was dedicated to Palaemon or Portumnus as the Latines call him in whose Honour the Isthmian Games to which all Greece resorted were instituted The rest were dedicated some to Neptune others to the Sun some to Ceres and Proserpina others to Diana to Pluto to Plenty to Bacchus and the Nymph Nape There are yet remaining in several places Foundations of the Walls that were built by the Lacedemonians from one Sea to the other to secure their Peninsula from the Incursions of their Enemies which the Venetians repaired when they had in possession the Kingdom of Morea and were Lords of it Having taken as good a view and survey of the Place as the shortness of the time would permit us we took Horse and came to Corinth by that time it was dark first watering our Horses by the way at a very fine Spring that rises at the side of the Hill Oneius and falls into the Corinthian Gulph The Isthmus is counted from Corinth between six or seven Miles and is almost directly East from it Lib VI. P 459 pa 442 CORINTHUS ET AB EIUS Acoeopoli Prosp●●tus Corinth hath yet near upon preserv'd its old Name CORINTH for they still call it Corintho or for shortness Coritho seldom now adays pronouncing the Σ at the end of their words It is situated towards the right hand just within the Isthmus on the Peloponnesian Shore being distant from the Gulph of Corinth about a couple of Miles and from the Saronick Gulph at least six or seven It hath Athens East by South and Mount Parnassus directly North and by Mr Vernon's Calculation thirty-eight Degrees fourteen Minutes Latitude It is not big enough now to deserve the Title of a City but may very well pass for a good considerable Country Town It consists of the Castle and the Town below it North of it and at almost a Miles distance nearer the Sea The lower Town lieth pleasantly upon an easie Descent of the Ground towards the Gulph of Lepanto The Buildings are not close together but in parcels of half a dozen or half a score sometimes twenty together but seldom more with Gardens of Orange-trees Lemons and Cypress-trees about them set with more Regularity than is usual in these Countries and such a distance is between the several Parcels or Buildings as that they have Corn-fields between them The Houses are more spruce here than ordinary and the biggest quarter is where the Bazar or Market-place is consisting of about fourscore or an hundred Houses There are two Mosques here and one small Church called Panagia at which the Arch-Bishop liveth who was then absent And few Marks either of his or St Paul's Preaching Pains or Care of this famous Church of Corinth are now to be observed there The next day we went first to see Panagioti Caballari a Merchant of Athens living most commonly here and letting him understand our Curiosity by enquiring after the Antiquities of the Place he shewed us presently in his Cellar a fair Inscription in Latine of Faustina Wife of the Emperour Antoninus Pius Some distance Westwards off this and upon a Ground somewhat higher than the Bazar we went to see eleven Pillars standing upright They were of the Dorick Order chanelled like those about the Temple of Minerva and Theseus at Athens the matter of which Pillars we found to be ordinary hard Stone not Marble But their Proportion extraordinary for they are eighteen foot about which makes six foot Diameter and not above twenty foot and an half high the Cylinder being twenty and the Capitals two and an half Whereas according to Pliny the Dorick Order should have the Shaft six times longer than the Diameter as those of Athens which have more rather than less But these are little above half so much There is a Pillar standing within these which hath the same Diameter but is much taller than the others although it hath part broken off and neither Capital nor Architrave remaining near it so that of what Order it was is yet uncertain The others are placed so with their Architraves that they shew they made a Portico about the Cella of the Temple And the single Pillar is placed so towards the Western-end within as shews it supported the Roof of the Pronaes