near the Port called Therma It hath but two Villages as our Pilot who is native of the place informed us We plied still Northwards and passed between Macronisa and Suda Monday morning the Ninth we approached near Tine TENOS and dropped Anchor about noon in a Bay on the South-side thereof there being no Port on that side of the Island Tine was anciently called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 as by some Medals we found there it appeared which on one side bear the Head of Jupiter Hammon and on the other a bunch of Grapes Med. 15 16 17 18. denoting its plenty of Wine with these Letters T H. Another I saw at Paris amongst the King of France's Collections which had on the one side the Head of the Emperor Alexander Severus and on the other a Trident wreathed about with a Serpent with these Letters about it ΤΗÎΙΩΠbecause here was a noble Temple dedicated to Neptune where as Strabo relateth the adjacent Islands used to perform the Ceremonies of their Religious Superstition The whole Island lieth high being a large heap of Marble Rocks but in many places covered with a fertile soil On the South-shore was its ancient City where nothing now remains but two or three houses called still 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or the City Here are some ancient Remains and an Inscription which sheweth it to have belonged to the Monument of Flavius Evergetes erected by his Wife Hence we ascended near four miles to a pointed Rock in the middle of the Island whereon now is its chief City and Castle As we passed we took notice of its plenty of Vineyards Figs and Olives They say they have Corn but not to spare rather wanting the help of other parts by reason they are so very populous this being now the only Island in the Archipelago that have defended themselves from the Turks and the last in those parts under the Dominion of the Venetians with whom the Inhabitants have made this agreement viz. That whensoever they cannot or will not protect them any longer they shall be obliged to deliver the Castle to the Inhabitants who are to have the freedom to chuse whom they will for their Protector There are Twenty-four Villages about the Island which can in time of necessity retire commodiously to this Castle it being in the midst of them and having great advantages of nature to defend it self from any sudden assault though I believe scarce able to stand out a considerable Siege for want of Water and Provision The Castle is on the highest point of the Rock surrounded by the Towns something lower than it and not only over-looketh the whole Island but almost all the Archipelago which afforded our curiosity a most delightful prospect of the same Hence to the Nor-West we saw Andros beyond that Euboea now called Negroponte by the Franks and more Westerly Zea. Beyond that Macronisa anciently Helena At a greater distance further we could discern Capo di Colouxi anciently called Promontorium Sunicum the most Southern Promontory of all Attica We saw to the Southward besides Thermia Seriphus c. two Islands they now call Sdilles or the two Deloses Rhenea and Delos to the West Micone The Inhabitants of Tine employed themselves in VVorking their own Silk and that of Andros but they are no great Artists in that Trade The women knit great part of it into Stockings and sell them very cheap Silk is worth about six or seven shillings the pound There is plenty of fresh water about the Island although not in the Town and it did therefore bear the name sometime of Hydrissa The Plants I took notice of more particularly here were these 1. Limonium or as Gerard calleth it Limonion Ger. p 412. folio sinuato or Sea-lavender with indented leaves where I believe either his Printer or he is mistaken in the naming it folio sinuato for caule sinuato 2. Another Thorny shrub which I know not under what species to rank unless Jacea It rifeth from the ground in a thick round bush its branches hard and woody dividing it self still into an infinite number of other small branches which terminate in Thorns amongst which are many jagged leaves of an Ash colour and with small scaly heads filled when blown with a stringy white flower in all respects like Jacea but much less It was now in seed but I saw it after in flower at Athens in the Spring of the year 3. A kind of small Stachys with silver leaves and 4. a kind of Genista Spinosa with red flowers which I find not any where described or mentioned Our Ships being to stay here some days to discharge themselves of the Goods of the new General of this place who if I remember rightly beareth the Title of General of the Archipelago though my companion calleth him only Proveditore and also to take in the baggage of his Predecessor who was to return to Corfu with half of our Fleet we resolved not to let so good an opportunity slip without seeing the anciently so renowned Island of Delos which we had in view not above eight or ten miles from Tine We hired a Bark with four Oars and had the company of two other Gentlemen whose curiosity was the same with ours The one was Monsieur Angrand Nephew to the French Embassador at Constantinople The other Monsieur Salli a Flemmish Gentleman and for our Guide one Signior Nicolo Crescentio of Tine D. D. who had studied at Rome and understood the History of this Country well and had often been at Delos when the antiquities thereof were not so much defaced as now they are This Gentleman with great civility offered us his company to shew us the Island The Wind being fair and a brisk gale we soon passed over to the Isle Rhencia now called Great Delos being the nearest opposite to Port Saint Nicolo where our Fleet lay and thence passing Eastward we crossed a little Bay which they say is a good Road large and deep enough for Ships of the greatest burthen From the further Cape of it we passed a Channel of about half a mile over according as Strabo affirmeth it to be to Delos Lib j Fig XII DELOS INSVLA N. SDILES This Island is but small not exceeding five or six miles about DELOS twice as long as broad lieth low but rocky and consequently barren It hath the Island Rhenia Westward the Southern parts of Micone East and the Channel between Micone and Tine to the North. It is utterly disinhabited now and called Little Delos or Zdeli in the plural number comprehending the Isle Rheneia which is a corruption of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which being not observed by Strangers hath been the occasion of mistakes in many Modern names of places in these Countries reported by our late Travellers Geographers and Mariners Now the great reason why it was so celebrated among the Ancients was because it was the reputed Birth-place of Apollo as Pindar Homer and Callimachus tell
a stringy Root springeth at first a thick Tuft of tender Sprouts whose Leaves are set so thick after one another two by two and crossing each other that they quite hide the round Stalk and make it look most Beautiful It seemeth all over hairy but as it groweth up about half a foot high it stretcheth the Leaves to a greater distance from each other in pairs and still crossing each other They are of a light green colour ribbed oval and pierced like St John's Woort but not pointed at the Ends smooth on both sides but round the Edges very rough and hairy I observe now since they are dry that they are full of black Spots Towards the top of the Flowers come out one above another from between the Leaves and leave a little Button of Seed divided into three parts with a hairy Husk about it of fine Leaves I cannot be positive whether I saw the Flower or no but if my Memory doth not very much fail me I did and it was a reddish colour But it is perfectly faded in my Book being very thin and tender I think it may be properly called Hyperioon margine crinifero Olympii Montis 7. After Conyzoides Gesneri with another thought to be Astragalus Matheoli flore Caeruleo 8. Pyrola fruticosior tenerior or as Bauhinus frutescens Arbuti folio which expresseth more the Nature of it 9. Gentianella Verna which hath a Knot of small Ature Flowers growing close to the ground 10. Senetium lanuginosum as Mr. Merchant or rather Senetio incana pinguis according to C. Bauhinus page 131. Downy Grounsel for it is so fat and glutinous that it sticketh to the Fingers This is not described by Gerard But it groweth taller and of a more strong Substance than the ordinary Grounsel But to give an exact Description of it I know not well how For it is spoiled with bringing so far or rather for want of care in putting it up better The Leaves as I remember are somewhat bigger than the vulgar and something like Ragweed 11. Cerinthe Minor G. 12. Cystus Argenteis foliis as Mr. Merchant calleth it I do not find it described in Gerard nor can I sind any Name agreeing with it exactly in C. Bauhinus his Pinà x although there are many incana hirsuta This is a little shrubby Plant growing from one Root into a round Tuft of woody Branches not a handful high from the ground dividing it self into many white Twigs which are thick set with small triple Leaves covered with a shining Whiteness like Sattin among which I saw short broad and flat Cods but the Hair longer and more downy containing a little shining and broad Seed Perhaps it may be that which Bellonius telleth grows not in France nor Italy without giving any other Desrciption of it nor hath it by me been seen in either 13. Cymbalaria Italica G. 14. Calamentha montana praestantior G. 687. 15. Elichryson sive Gnaphalium comâ aureâ This is a very beautiful Plant which hath lying almost flat on the ground several long Leaves out of the middle of which riseth up a round Stalk of a handful and half high set about carelesly with narrow Leaves All of them from the bottom to the top covered with so thick white Down that it may be pulled off with the Fingers The top is crowned with a Tuft of scaly globular Flowers of a bright yellow colour which being gathered will continue fresh many Years 16. There is growing up and down upon the top of this Mountain Tufts of Grass or Rushes lying round together upon the ground like a Hedgehog or Porcupine about half a handful high each having a sharp hard point which makes it very hard to come at to gather any of it 17. Stratiotes Tragi page 476. or Millefolium Nobile G. I. B. page 1073. He hath forgot to mention the Odoriferous Smell it hath The Seeds smell like the Seeds of common Tansy but more pleasant His Design agreeth well with my Plants 18. Descending from the Mountain I observed another sort of Hypericon or St John's Woort with a single large Flower on the top upon a Stalk of a foot or better high whereon Leaves grow like the other St John's Woort but larger and by pairs at equal distances The Description that C. Bauhinus in his Prodromo page 130. giveth of Ascyron magno flore agreeth well with this only I may add That it beareth but one Flower at the top and that the Seeds follow the Flower in a round Cod like Park Leaves which he never saw but saith It was gathered in the Pyrenaean Mountains by Dr Barserus but this here upon Olympus 19. Panax Heracleum or Hercules All-heale But whether it beareth Opopanax here I had not time to examine 20. Borago Semper Virens or Everlasting Borage of which G. page 797. 21. On the Mountain in plain Places where standing Water had been I gathered a kind of Gnaphalium which I find not described It is most like the Leontopodium of Gerard But whereas he says That riseth a handful high This creepeth and lieth flat on the Ground From a little blackish Root spreade five or six or more downy Stems of about an Inch long on which are commonly half a dozen white sharp Leaves three long ones and three short ones like the Stoechas Citrina I but now mentioned Within which is a greenish yellow Flower I believe each of them take root and produce many more of the same For it spreadeth irregularly very much abroad whereof this I have now described is but a slip although it is rooted 22. I was shewed a dried Herb that groweth on this Mountain whereof the Powder is made we commonly call Tutti Dr Pickering called it Herba Tuitia I saw it only dry but it seemeth both in Root Leaves and Flower to be very like our ordinary Field-Cowslip only the Leaves are much longer and the Cups that contain the Flowers rather like Auricula Vrsi and the Flowers of a reddish colour of five little Leaves each with a notch also at the top They say when it is blown there is a Dust that may be shaken off this Plant which is the best Powder This Armenian told us There groweth a World of other curious Plants and fair Flowers about this Mountain but that the time of Year to see them was past As for me I was glad I found these and sorry that Night grew so near that I was forced to desist searching them to find the way down which we did with difficulty enough not being half way down before the Night over-took us nor arrived we to the Kan before ten or eleven at Night I was carried to a Turkish Quack-Salver a Man reputed for his Skill in Physick among them where I saw a great many ordinary Herbs dried in bundles some I knew not perhaps it was because ill dried All that I saw green was an Herb much like Germander only the Snips of the Leaves were sharp and not
after that also bearing the Decree of the Senate and People honouring Demetrius Son of Praxion and I believe the Statues of each of those Men were placed upon each of these Inscriptions Thence we went down by the Streight-way to the Port where on a Rock by the Sea-side are the Remains of Old Walls I believe of some Fortress belonging to the antient City Nicaea which in all probability stood there And was built by Nisus one of the four Sons of Pandion who at his Death divided his Kingdom of Attica into four parts and gave Megaris to Nisus About it below are the Remains of a dozen little old Churches and therefore they call the Place Dodeca-Ecclesia the Twelve Churches But now there is not so much as one Church entire or dwelling House no People nor no Priest This was the Port-Town of the Megarians of which the two Rocks which make the Harbour were antiently called Minoa Being return'd to Megara we took our Horses and went about three or four Miles Northward to a ruined Town they call 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Old Town where we found six or seven old Churches built as I conceive out of the Ruins of some more antient Edifices and in them some antient Inscriptions Q. CORTIO SALASSI L. POTHINO EX TESTAMENTO ARBITRATV THEOPHRASTI ET .......... ANCELI L. One in Latine in memory of Quintus Curtius of Salassi a City of Gallia Cisalpina or Piemont as Ferrarius hath it What Quintus Curtius this was I shall not take upon me to determine Η ΒΟΥΛΗ ÎΕΙΚΙΑΠΕΡΜΕΙΟΥ ΒΑΣΙΛΕΥΣΑÎΤΑ ΑΡΕΤΗϹ ΧΑΡΙΠThere is another Inscription to the Memory of Nicias the Son of Hermius who as Pliny testifies L. 7. c. 16. was the first that invented the Trade of Fulling The Stone shews that he governed there I believe this Town was the antient Rhus mentioned by Pausanias I observed much Mandragora or Mandrakes growing in this Plain it being then in Flower and of a Purple or Violet colour 2. Keratia in great plenty of which before Lib. VI. Astragali Species 3. A kind of Astragalus which Monsieur Merchant calleth Astragalus argentens and doubts whether it be not Astragalus Syriacus It was not then in its full growth but hath a Root running deep in the Ground The Leaves were set upon a long stem small and something like to that which is called Grecian Valerian but covered over with a shining white and hoary down Among the Leaves I perceived some Buds not blown but then of a light yellow colour which whether they change when blown I know not But their shape is like Bean-blossoms Next Morning GERANIA now PALAIOBOUNI before it was light we parted from Megara that we might if possible reach Corinth the same day For it is further from thence to Corinth than it is from Athens thither and the way worse For not a Mile from Megara we began to ascend the Mountain Palaio-vouni by the lower way For there are two the one over the top of the Mountain and the other along the side of it This hath a very deep precipice on the left hand unto the Sea and the Mountain a vast height above it and is worthily called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the Bad Way For it is one of the worst I ever travell'd for narrowness raggedness and danger of falling down some a hundred Yards headlong into the Sea which the least stumble of our Horses might easily effect This way in antient times was famous for the Robber Sciron who from thence threw head-long into the Sea all such as he had robbed until Theseus came who was too hard for him and justly made him taste the same Punishment he so barbarously had inflicted upon others throwing him into the Sea from a rocky Precipice Whence it was antiently called Scironides rupes or Scironiasaxa The Road is at this time little less infested with the Ambuscades of Corsairs than it was of old by that Thief Turks themselves dread and tremble to go this way when necessary occasions force them to it for fear of these People insomuch that one Turk happening to be on this Road at the time we passed by seeing us to be Francks and knowing the English Druggerman that went with us was glad to joyn himself to us and for greater security to pull off his Turbant and make a Girdle of it leaving only a red Skull-Cap upon his Head like a Greek This whole Mountain was called in old time Gerania because Megarus escaped thither in Deucalion's Flood being guided by the noise of Cranes called in Greek 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 as I have elsewhere proved It is a very high Mountain of which these high Cliffs are but upon the side a great way below the highest Point though they themselves are of a great height from the Sea As we passed along I observ'd the Wind to precipitate it self strangely down from the top of the Mountain WIND into the Sea some Blasts seeming to fall right down upon the Surface of the Water and there to be divided three or four several ways making the Waves to foam as it went Sometimes I saw the Water agitated for several Furlongs round about and in other parts smooth and calm at the same time for a considerable while together which was a Divertisement to us while we passed along that dangerous Road. Much time we spent in scrambling up and down these Precipices which done we continued along the Shore under the Mountain until we came to an antient Monument about mid-way from Megara to Corinth being raised up three or four Yards from the Ground and eight squard About it lay several large Planks of Marble some with Basso-relievd's upon them and some without One of which hath a Man walking on foot and a Horse passing by him the other way Another hath a Figure in a lying Posture but much defaced Not far from hence the antient Cromium ought to have been situated which was sometimes the Bounds between Attica and Peloponnesus But whether this was the Pedestal to the Pillar that King Theseus set up to be the Bounds between his Athenians and the Peloponnesians I dare not say but rather think it was some Octogone Temple For the Pillar should be further within the Isthmus where the Isthmian Games were celebrated It may well enough be that Temple of Apollo and Latona which Pausanias speaks of and placeth hereabouts From this antient Monument the plain Ground beginneth to enlarge it self between the Mountain Palaio-vouni and the Saronick Shoar although the Mountain and plain Ground considered together rather begins to grow narrow towards the narrowest Place of the Isthmus It makes as much cultivable Ground as the Plain of Megara but it is utterly neglected and uninhabited for fear of the Corsairs This was that Spot of Ground so much disputed for between the Athenians and Peloponnesians and afterwards by the Megarians and those of Corinth Lauribegius calls it Smedis regio and Heromelium ONEIUS Mons.
so long or oval as ours commonly are but a short and flat round in shape of a Boul nor are the Ribs covered with such a Fret work but smooth The Yellow ones are like the White for shape and are not known from them until opened but are not esteemed quite so good The Peaches here are extraordinary good and big wâ—â—ghing from ten to fifteen or sixteen Ounces Here are also Citrons Oranges and Lemons in abundance One sort of Lemon is very extraordinary and seldom seen in England For beside their largeness and thinness of skin filled with excellent sharp juice they are without either seed or stone Here are also abundance of curious Plants The curious Plants I here took particular notice of are these 1. Genista seu Spartium a small shrub growing on the Cliffs bearing many Silver-colour'd leaves on little Twigs which are succeeded with a knot of small Golden flowers whose little cod or seed being pass'd the twigs that remain become sharp thorns 2. Convolvulus with a large purple flower and leaves like Sagittaria or Arrow-head This I found among the Pitch-Springs 3. Prunella Spinosa 4. Coris Matthioli G. 544. 5. Gossipium Here I first saw the Cotton Plant grow which is an Annual lant sown in Fields as we do Hemp and Flax but altogether unlike them It hath a Stalk a foot high beset with leaves like Maple divided into three sometimes four parts from among which leaves come yellow flowers like Mallows or Holly-hacks in shape set in a cup consisting of three green leaves nipped about the edges This the flower being past filleth it self up with a shell like a Nut crouded full of Cotton with two or three round seeds in it 6. Anagallis Aquatica 3tia Lob. 7. Glaux Dioscordis as hath been thought by some It is like Gramen Burgundiacum in substance and leaves and the flower also ends in branches but of a blewish purple colour which are succeeded by cods each divided into two or three round rough and flat shells joyned to each other in each of which is a seed like a Tare 8. Cistus Plantaginis folio This hath four or five leaves lying flat on the ground long hairy and sinewed like the middle kind of Plantan from which groweth a stalk of a foot high beset at several distances with smaller long leaves at the top it is divided into several branches of bright and yellow flowers with black bottoms This I found only upon Monte di Scoppo 9. Lychnis with Flowers speckled like the Strawberry-pricks 10. A small Plant like Hyssop or Savoury but thin and downy with small tender flowers on the top like Geranium not divided into leaves but a certain cup of a reddish colour full of purple veins 11. Cicerum Creticum July the Twenty-eighth after four days stay at Zant we went aboard again our former Ship called the Guerriera Costante Commanded by Captain Zoane Bronze Native of Perasto a Town in Albania He was formerly a Pirate and for his Valour well known and feared by the Turks and reverenced by the Corsairs He is esteemed one of the stoutest Soldiers the State of Venice hath in its service They tell of him that in his younger days he was at Perasto on a time when it was assaulted by a party of Two thousand Turks and they in the Town not above Fifty-nine persons yet for all that they made such vigorous resistance that they slew a great part of the Turks razed their Batteries and in conclusion made such a Valorous Excursion upon them as made them desist from their enterprize By a North-wind we put out and left the Promontory di Scoppo on the right hand but not without saluting the holy Image on the top of it for luck sake Not long after we passed the Isles Strophades called now Strovadi or Strivalli thought by the ancient Poets to be the refuge of the Harpies They are judged about Fifty miles from Zant and Thirty from the Morea very low and the biggest not above Five miles in circuit Nevertheless they report that there is such plenty of fresh water there that one cannot thrust a stick into the ground but water gusheth out in the place which makes them very fertile They also say that in the Fountains of this Isle are often found Plane-tree leaves though none grow upon the place but only in the Morea which makes them believe and not without reason that their Original is from thence and by subterraneous Channels they are brought thither Here is a Covent of about fifty or sixty Greeks in it who defend their miraculous Madonna by several Bastions planted with good Canons for fear of the Corsairs though they say the very Turks of Barbary have a respect for those Reverend Fathers and seldom put a shore here but to take in fresh water For great Ships they report it to be inaccessible except in very moderate and calm weather there being so many Flats about it and no shelter for them About Threescore miles further we doubled the Cape Sapienza anciently called on the West-side Coriph Promontorium on the East Acriti Promontorium before which lie in a row the little Islands Sapienza Carrera and Venetica well known to the Pirates of Barbary who use to skulk with their Vessels behind them attending the Barques that come out of the Gulph of Venice and others which they can master bound that way for the Levant We were not far from these Islands passing the Gulph Corone called formerly Sinus Messeniacus when a Saylor from the Main-top-Mast made Ten Sail of great Ships steering the same course as we did Upon this we fired a Gun to give notice to the Commander of our Discovery hoisting and lowring ten times our Ensign to denote the number of Sail. He immediately spared Sail and made as little way as was convenient considering a fair Nor-West Wind which we had almost a poop The like we did and with all speed prepared for an Engagement knocking down all the Cabbins and throwing Chests and Hammocks into the Hold. They loaded the Guns put out the wast-cloaths and quartered the Soldiers in their several Posts being as yet uncertain whether they were friends or enemies They suspected them to be Algerines or some other Fleet of African Pirates Some feared they were French-men in whom they had no great confidence because they had lately denied some of the French Kings Ships coming from Mesina liberty to take in Provision at Zant and therefore they knew not how it might be resented However whether Friends or Enemies they thought it not safe to trust either whereby they might be surprized It was three hours before they came up to us although they made all the Sail they could which made us believe that they were either Dutch or English Merchant-men feeing they were so flow and not Pirates or Men of VVar who use to be better Sailers But at length when they came nearer we discerned them to be Hollanders by their Ensigns which were striped of
miserable Church thus marked out by God who being reduced to a very inconsiderable number live by the Sweat of their Brows in digging and planting the Gardens of the Turks they live amongst and serve having neither Church nor Priest among them Nor are the Turks themselves there very considerable either for Number or Riches being only Herdsmen to the Cattle feeding on those spacious Plains dwelling in a few pitiful Earthen Huts having one Mosque perverted to that use from a Christian Church Thus is that once Glorious City of the rich King Croesus now reduced to a Nest of worse than Beggars Their Pactolus hath long since ceased to yield them Gold and the Heavens to recover them their dying Glories Yet there are some Remains of noble Structures Remembrancers of their prosperous State long since destroyed For at the East-side of the City are the Ruins of an old Castle and of a great Church and North and South Palaces and other proud Buildings humbled at present to the Earth Some Inscriptions I had given me of this Place of which this is the most considerable wherein the Council and Senate of Sardis honoured the Emperour Antoninus Pius as a Mark of their good Will ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΑ ΚΑΙΣΑΡΑ ΘΕΟΥ ΑΔΡΙΑÎΟΥ ΥΙΟΠΘΕΟΥ ΤΡΑΙΑÎΟΥ ΥΙΩÎΟΠΤ. ΑΙΛΙΟΠΑΔΡΙΑÎΟΠΑÎΤΩÎΙÎΟΠΕΥΣΕΒΗΠΣΕΒΑΣΤΟΠΔΗΜΑΡΧΙΚΗΣ ΕΞΟΥΣΙΑΣ Î’. ΥΠΑΤΟΠΤΡΙΤΟΠΠΑΤΗΡΑ ΠΑΤΡΙΔΟΣ Η ΒΟΥΛΗ ΚΑΙ Ο ΔΗΜΟΣ ΤΩΠΣΑΡΔΙΑÎΩΠΕΤΕΙΜΗΣΕΠΗΡΩΑ ΕΥÎΟΙΑΣ ΑΥΤΟΥ ΧΑΡΙΠTo conclude It is situate about a days Journey South of Thyatira at the Foot and on the North-side of the famous Mountain Tmolus called now by the Turks Bozdag or Joy-Mountain They have the Prospect of a spacious Plain North of it watered by many Streams partly issuing out of a Hill South-West of the Town and partly from the Tmolus from whence also the Pactolus issueth out of the East side of it and with the rest empty themselves into the Hermus This Place is yet called by the Turks Sart or Sards not much differing from its antient Name Sardis Of which I have a Monument preserved in an antient piece of their Money coyned in the time of the Emperour Gordianus Pius Med. 60 61 62 63 64 65 66. about the Reverse whereof I read ϹΑΡΔΙΑ ... .. ΩΚΟΡΩΠI saw two others very rare the one of the Empress Tranquillina and the other of Caracalla with an Urn on the Reverse which containeth a Branch of Olives and under is written ΧΡΥϹΑÎΘΙÎΑ ϹΑΡΔΙΑÎΩΠΒ. ÎΕΩΚΟΡΩΠThe Sport Chysanthina of the Sardians twice Neocorus Another stamped by the common Assembly of Asia there in honour of Drusus and Germanicus Brother and Nephew to the Emperour Tiberius And another very curious one my Comrade produceth having the Emperour Commodus seated in the midst of the Zodiack with Celestial Signs engraven on 't and on the other a Figure with a Crown-mure with these Letters about it ΣΑΡΔΙΣ ΑΣΙΑΣ ΑΥΔΙΑΣ ΕΛΛΑΔΟΣ Α ΜΗΤΡΟΠΟΛΙΣ Sardis the first Metropolis of Asia Greece and Audia but where and what Audia was I find not The Doom of Laodicea seemeth to have been yet more terrible LAODICEA than any of the rest For it is now utterly destroyed and forsaken of Men an Habitation only for Wolves Foxes and Chacals a Den of Dragons Snakes and Vipers And that because the Lord hath executed the Judgment that he hath spoken upon her That all the World might know and tremble at the fierce Anger of God against impenitent negligent and careless Sinners For such was the Accusation of the Luke-warm Laodiceans that grew proud and self-conceited thinking themselves better than they were Wherefore because they were neither Hot nor Cold they were loathsom to God and He therefore assured them He would spit them out of His Mouth The Ruins shew it to have been a very great City situate upon six or seven Hills encompassing a large space of Ground twenty Miles distant from Coloss North-East and five Miles South of Hierapolis between which is a Plain watered with the River Lycus about a Mile and half distance from Laodicea It hath three Theaters of white Marble so beautiful and entire as if they were but lately built and a Circus as stately What other Antiquities yet remain there I heard not but my Comrade hath a Medal of this City Med. 67. which I count no small Rarity It is of the Emperour Commodus with a Reverse representing the four Seasons of the Year in four Figures The first bearing a Basket of Flowers the second a Cycle the third a Basket of Fruit with these Letters about ΕΥΤΥΧΕΙΣ ΚΑΙΡΟΙ ΛΑΟΔΙΚΕΩΠÎΕΟΚΟΡΩΠsignifying the Genius's of the Seasons of Laodicea Neocorus It is called now Eske-hissar or Old-Castle and not Laodichia as Signior Ferraro affirmeth nor yet by the Turks Nove-lesche nor hath it the Title of an Arch-Bishops See as he saith Perhaps this mistake of his is grounded on the mistake of those who have taken Laotik a Village near Angury called antiently Ancyra a great way from these Parts to be the antient Laodicea Philadelphia is the Church as well as Smyrna PHILADELPHIA comforted with most gracious Promises from Heaven and therefore owes its present condition which is so much better than the rest to the Support of it which as I was informed and Mr Smith affirmeth next to Smyrna hath the greatest number of Christians above the other Metropolitical-Seats there being above Two hundred Houses of Christians there and four Churches whereof the chief is dedicated to Panagia or the Holy Virgin the other to St George the third to St Theodore and the fourth to St Taxiarchus as St Michael the Arch-Angel is called by the Greeks When all Asia beside were over-run by the Turkish Forces the Philadelphians still maintain'd their Liberty against the raging Conquerours Orchanes and Morat the second and third Sultans of the Turks until the time of Bajazet the next Sultan by whom they were forced to submit yet to a more easie Fate than the rest of that Country For after they had most valiantly defended themselves their Surrender was upon terms more easie than their Neighbours who abandoned to the Mercy of the Barbarous Conquerour were handled accordingly But to these Heavens had promised a more particular Protection assuring them That He knew their Works and Behold I have set a Door open before thee and none can shut it For thou hast a little Strength and hast kept my Word and hast not denied my Name Because thou hast kept the Patience ordained thee by my Word I also will keep thee from the hour of Temptation that shall come upon all the World to try them that dwell upon the Earth Apoc. 3.8.10 Than which as my Comrade saith What could be said more formally to foretell the Coming of the Turks the open Enemies of Christianity who seem to be sent on purpose for the Punishment of our Crimes and to distinguish the Faithful from the False Christians who pretend to be so and are not Of the Antiquities
admirable Description of a Storm we had in each point so dreadfully experimented How could we then forbear taking his Advice and give Him the Praise who so graciously was pleased to deliver us from those Terrours of Death encompassing of us round about And how could we more acceptably express our Gratitude than by that Sacred Hymn he had inspired the best of Poets as well as Kings with part of which I have endeavoured in our Language thus to Paraphrase O that Mankind would praise the Lord and show His Wonders done for Mortals here below And here 't is just for me to bear my part Who though I want fit Words want not a Heart From the safe Port whom gentle Gales invite To loose to Sea and take a Wat'ry Flight These plainly see God's Wonders in the Deep These surely learn who 't is their Souls doth keep When on the smoothest Calm the Heavens frown And Storms from Mountain tops send Thund'ring down They soon print Wrinkles on its polish'd Brow And into Mounts and Vales those Plains do plow The Waves lift up their Voice the Billows rage No Mortal Pow'r their Fury can asswage They foam and roar they toss the Ships so high That many times they seem to touch the 〈◊〉 But soon are plung'd again into the Deep And in the World's Abyss do trembling peep Few there have any Appetite to Meat And those that have can no where sit to eat Like Drunken Men they stagger to and fro On dancing Decks what mortal Man can go Their Wits quite gone their Reason from them fled They look upon themselves already dead Then cry they to the Lord in their distress For God alone such Troubles can redress He soon Commands the Winds into his Treasure And rolls the plough'd-up Floods to Vales of Pleasure He brings them safe to their desired Port He gives them Rest and is their strongest Fort. Why then should Men neglect to praise his Name Who furious Winds and raging Seas doth tame The End of the Third BOOk THE Fourth BOOK CONTAINING A VOYAGE FROM ZANT THROUGH Several Parts of GREECE TO ATHENS SO soon as we had kept our Christmas a Ship-board with our Captain not being permitted to do it a Shore coming from those Parts of Turky suspected of Contagion we hired a good Barque with a Greek that could speak Italian and a little English to serve us and notwithstanding we had once been turned back by contrary Winds the day before yet December 28th we passed over to Castle-Tornese CASTLE-TORNESE being about eighteen or twenty Miles to the nearest Shore of Peloponnesus now called Morea The Castle is upon a Hill half a dozen Miles from the Shore But we went forward and turned the Promontory Chelonitis between it and a Scoglio called Cacolidida with Shallows about it and by ten in the Morning made thirty Miles from Zant to Chiarenza a ruined City formerly belonging to the Venetians There are such vast Masses of Wall turned upside down joyned together with so hard a cement that they are not much broken but so big that it could be nothing but Gun-Powder or an Earthquake that could have removed them from their Foundations in that manner The Situation CHIARENZA olim CYLLENE and those Marks of Antiquity assured us That this was the antient City Cyllene the Country of Mercury from whence he was sirnamed Cylâ—nius But his Eloquence hath so little prevail'd with Saturn and Mars that they have not spared either his City or Country it being left without Habitation or an Inhabitant The Port is now fill'd up with Sand and Earth but there is good Anchorage in the Bay without yet open to the North and North-East-Winds Here lay then three small Vessels they call Tartans much used by the French Merchants They live well at Sea and will make way very close to the Wind. These coming to lade Provisions for Messina we found that Oxen were then sold for five or six Dollers a piece Sheep for about three Shiâ—ings and Corn as good cheap About two Miles further is a Covent oâ— Greek-Monks About six Miles South-East of Castle-Tornese is a Town the Turks call Clemouzzi CLEMOUZZY GASTOUNI About sixteen from thence also is another indifferent large Town called Gastouni which is about five Miles from the Sea and on a River which perhaps was the River Penea Thence continuing along the Coasts of the Morea twenty Miles further we came to Cotichi COTICHI where there is a Fishing Place called Pescharia which is a Lake fed and stored by the Sea where in July they catch abundance of Mullets to make Botargus and Salt-Fish There is such abundance of all sorts of Wild Fowl Ducks Teals Wild-Geese Pelicans c. resort thither as would bring much Profit in any Place but Turky were a Decoy made there Here we lay all Night in our Boat The next day we parted early and keeping still along the same Shore CONOPOLI we came to a Point about six Miles thence called Conopoli On the top of the Rock is a ruined Tower with the Rubbish of a Town about it but what it was formerly called I know not From the Foot of the Rock is a Spring of Hot Salt and Bituminous Water which runneth down into the Sea within a yard or two of its Source About it I observed plenty of Common Alexanders Cyclamen PLANTS or Sowbread Anagyris foetida then in flower which grows to a good big Shrub of a yard and half high whose Twigs are set with a large three-fold Leaf each of which are long and somewhat narrow of a deep green colour and of a strong stinking smell The Flowers also grow out in little bunches like the other Laburnum but larger and of a deeper yellow colour spotted also with black or Hare-colour'd Spots The outward Leaf is the shortest the next pair longer and the inmost longest all divided at the ends The Flower is succeeded by a long Cod like a French Bean filled at like distances with a Seed as big of a blue or purple colour and exceeding hard Staphys agria or Staves-acre not long come up from the Seeds A kind of Bryony not differing from the white above ground only the Leaves were spotted with white Spots Hence we had the Prospect of a large Plain along the Shore beyond us and behind us but a good way within the Land most part of it is covered with Pine-Trees Continuing yet six or seven Miles further along the same Coasts we came to another point called Cape Calogrea Cape CALOGREA where we were shewed a Well or Fountain called Durach-bey because dug by a famous Turkish Pirate of that Name By this are the Mouths of two Rivers near together or the same River emptying it self by two Mouths for our Mariners assured us they were distinct One of them very probably is the River Larissus of the Antients LARISSUS Fluv which distinguished the Provinces of Eleum and Dimaeum Near
not Delphos but the Amphissa of old we enquired of our Host whether there were no antient Ruins of a Town in our way between this and Livadia He told us That there were many at Castri a Village about mid-way So we spake with several Janizaries to conduct us thither and thence to Livadia and Thebes But not agreeing upon the Price we took the Brother of Mahomet Basha and parted very early next Morning For Monsieur Spon's going into the Water at the Fountain above the Town had made some of the Turks to murmur and to suspect us to be Spies A little way from the Town we foorded a Brook which joyns with the other Stream in the Plain but are both near lost in watering them before they come to the Sea After a Mile or two Riding we looked about and saw another Janizary following us of those we had spoken to over night which we were resolved to keep also thinking until we were better acquainted with the Country we could not be too secure So we were now eight strong viz. our two Janizaries our Greek our three Hagoiaties or Guides who were the owners of our Horses Monsieur Spon and my self We soon began to mount the Ridges of the Mountain Parnassus by a very bad rough way South-Eastwards until we arrived in four or five Hours time at Castri CASTRI DELPHOS which we no sooner approached but we concluded that it was undoubtedly the Remainder of the famous City of Delphos Lib IIII. Fig V. Mount Parnssus Castri or Delphos is situate on the South-side of the Mountain Parnassus something inclining to the West not on the top nor at the foot of the Mountain for it hath a great way to the Plains of Crissa below it and much more to the Mountains above it The high Cliffs in sight above it from the Town seem to end in two points whence I judged it was call'd of old Biceps Parnassus For it hath many more tops and much higher than these being a very great Mountain But these two tops seen from Delphos hide all the rest Between which the Water falls in great abundance after Rain or Snow and hath worn them almost asunder There is also a Fountain with a very plentiful Source of Water continually issuing out from among those Rocks just under that Separation which by the Marble Steps descending to it and the Niches made in the Rock for Statues above it CASTALIA should be the Fountain Castalia that so inspired the antient Poets It s Stream falleth down Southward a very deep and narrow Precipice where it soon joyneth with the River Pleistos separating Mount Cirphis from Parnassus whence it runs by Crissa Southwards and falleth into the Bay of Salona West and North-West likewise Delphos hath a Descent but not so steep Northwards it is backed with the double-headed Cleft of Parnassus But that no Doubt might remain but this was Delphus we found several Inscriptions bearing that Name in antient Greek Characters of which this Fragment I brought with me and is now at Oxford is one ΤΥΧΑ ΔΕΛΦΟ ... .. ΑÎΓΙΑΤΡΩÎΑ .... .. ΩÎΙΟ ΕΥΔΩΡΩΠ.. .. ΑΡΚΟΥ ΒΟΙΩΤΟΙΣ .. ΤΑÎΑΓΡΑΣ ΑΥΤΟΙΣ Ι ΕÎΓΟÎΟΙΣ ΠΡΟΞΕ ΠΠΡΟΜΑÎΤΕΙΑΠΕΛΙΑΔΑΣ ΥΛΙΑΠΠΡΟΕΔΡΙΑΠΠΡΟΔΙΚΙ ΑΠΕΠΙ ΤΙΜΑΠΚΑΘΑΠΕΡ ΔΕΛΦΟΙΣ ΑΡΧΟÎΤΟΣ ΘΟΙÎΙΩÎΟΣ ΒΟΛΕΥ ÎΤΩΠΣΩΠΟΔΟΡΟΥ I need not tell you what this Place was in antient times All the World knows how famous Delphos hath been for the Oracle of Apollo there consulted for so many Ages together But it s antient Glory is now vanished and it remains Great at present only in the Writings of the Antients Before we entred within the Compass of the former City we observed several Grottoes cut in the Rocks with several Partitions as we conceived to bury the Dead as believing that the antient Sanctity and Respect had to this Place would not permit to bury the Dead within the Walls no more than at Delos the other famous Oracle of Apollo Mounting a little higher by a way cut out of the Rocks we entred through a Passage where we thought the antient Gates might have been from whence we saw the Town of Castri hard by and descending thence a little further we went into a Church on the right hand called St Helias where we found the last and some other pieces of white Marble with Inscriptions on them At the Door of this Church is another great Stone with some Lines of an Inscription which we copied as well as we could and where I thought that I read the Name of Delphos again This seems to be the Place most likely for the Temple of Apollo to have been situated in although now no Remains of it are to be found only Pausanias saith That it was in the upper Part of the City It is true there is a Rock yet higher North-West of this beyond the Stadium But there is no room for such a Temple to be built there nor any manner of antient Remains on it but where this Church is built the Ground lieth higher than the rest and square having the Foundations of a Wall built of hewen Stone and towards the Descent of the Hill supported by Buttrices but towards the way-side even with the Ground Not far from this are several Antient pieces of Walls with arched and old vaulted Places A little further on the left hand of the way is the Place where a Stadium hath been and some of the Degrees yet remain of white Marble It is much less than that of Athens although both had the same Founder viz. Herodes Atticus The Stadium hath the high Rock I last spake of at one Corner West of it towards which are several Grottoes and Caves hewn out of it I suppose for Sepulchers as well as those we saw coming into the Town This way led us a little more forward by an easie Descent to the Inhabited Parts of Castri and we alighted at a large House that served for a Kan or Place of Entertainment to Passengers This Town consists of not above Two hundred Houses and those very ill built The Turks are not above a dozen in number and have one Mosque The Greeks have five or six Churches and seem very good People though poor and were very civil to us The little Trade they have is in Cotton and Tabaco and their Wine is exceeding good Castri belongeth to a Timar called Abd-Haga who liveth at Salona Timarlicks are a kind of Fee-farms that belong to the Grand Signior and those that hold them of him are obliged to serve him in the War according to their Revenue After Noon we went through the Town to the Fountain we knew to be Castalia by Pausanias his Description of it who coming the way contrary to us to wit from the Gymnasium and Boeotia wards left it at his right hand It is just in the Cleft of the Rocks as I said before hanging over it with a high Precipice In this Rock above the Fountain is a kind of little