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A29631 Travels over England, Scotland and Wales giving a true and exact description of the chiefest cities, towns, and corporations, together with the antiquities of divers other places, with the most famous cathedrals and other eminent structures, of several remarkable caves and wells, with many other divertive passages never before published / by James Brome ... ; the design of the said travels being for the information of the two eldest sons, of that eminent merchant Mr. Van-Ackar. Brome, James, d. 1719. 1700 (1700) Wing B4861; ESTC R19908 191,954 310

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times past full of Woods and Timber but instead thereof it yieldeth now plenty of Corn Sheep and Cattel the Air is reasonably Healthful save only a little Aguish at some time and in some places by reason of the Fogs that do arise from the Sea It yieldeth also great store of Millstones and Grindstones and in some places a sort of Earth of which they make Alum and Copperas but more especially it affords such plenty of Wheat it is deservedly entitled the Mother of Wales In Caernarvanshire the Air is sharp and piercing and in it are the highest Hills in Wales Caernarvanshire for which reason 't is justly called the English Alps on some of which the Snow lies long and on others all the Year long hard crusted together In the Pool called Lin-paris there is The Pool Lin-paris as 't is reported a kind of Fish called Torroch having a red Belly which is no were else to be seen but here 'T is affirmed likewise that on some of the high Hills of this Shire are too Meres one of which produceth Fish which have but one Eye and in the other is a movable and floating Island which as soon as any Person treads on it presently falls into a moving posture Snowdown-Hills Snowdown Hills although they have always Snow lying upon them yet they are exceeding Rank with Grass insomuch that they are become a Proverb amongst the Welshmen That those Mountains will yield sufficient Pasture for all the Cattel in VVales And 't is certain that there are Pools and standing Waters upon the top of these Mountains and they are so coated with a snowy Crust that lies on them that if a Man doth but lightly set his Foot upon the top of them he shall perceive the Earth to stir for several Foot from him which probably might occasion the story of the floating Island before mentioned Penmaen-Mour i. e. The great stony Head Penmaen-Mour is an exceeding high and steep Rock which hangeth over the Sea when it is Flood affordeth a very narrow way for Passengers having on the one side huge Stones over their Heads as if they were ready to fall upon them and on the other side the raging Ocean lying of a wonderful depth under it but after a Man hath passed over this together with Penmean-Lythan the less stony Head he shall come to an open broad Plain that reacheth as far as the River Conway in which are bred a sort of Shell-Fish which being conceived of an Heavenly Dew as is conjectured bring forth Pearl Bangor Within this County is Banchor q. Penchor so called a Choro pulchro being a Bishop's See the Church was dedicated to Daniel Bishop hereof but that which is now standing is but a mean Structure for Owen Glendover who designed to have utterly destroyed all the Cities in Wales set it on Fire because the Inhabitants of this Place chose rather to side with the King of England than with him hereupon the ancient Church being defaced Henry Dean Bishop hereof did afterward repair it about the Reign of Henry the VIIth But that which is most observable was the famous British Monastery of this place where as the learned Bishop Stillingfleet hath observed Men were bred up to Learning and Devotion together and so more resembling our Colleges than the Aegyptian Monasteries where Men were brought up to Ignorance and Labour as much as to Devotion The Right Reverend Bishop Floyd in his Historical Account of Church Government in Great Britain tells us farther out of Bede that here were above Two thousand Persons together in seven Colleges of which none had fewer than Three hundred Monks in it This we may believe by what we see saith another Historian that writ Four hundred Years after Bede's time we see saith he so many half ruined Walls of Churches so many windings of Porticos so great a heap of Ruins as you shall scarce meet with elsewhere by which Account it seems in its flourishing State to have been not much less than one of our Universities at this Day How Twelve hundred innocent Monks of this Place though the Saxon Chronicle mentions but Two hundred who came along with their Army by Fasting and Prayer to intercede with Heaven for its prosperous Success were all cruelly put to Death by Ethelfrid King of Northumberland A. D. 607. at the Instigation of Ethelbert King of Kent is too Tragical a Story to insist long upon but that Austen the Monk was the first Spring of this fatal Tragedy moving Ethelbert to it as he did Ethelfrid there are not only strong Suspicions saith the Learned Dr. Cade in his Discourse concerning Ancient Church-Government but the thing is expresly affirmed by several Historians of no inconsiderable Credit and Antiquity In Denbighshire the Air is cold Denbighshire but very wholesom and the Snow lies long upon the Hills which resemble the Battlements of Walls and upon the top of Moilenny-Hill Moilenny-Hill which is one of the largest in this Shire is a Spring of clear Water In this County is VVrexham Wrexham a Market Town distant about Fifteen Miles from Holy-VVell and much admired for the Steeple of its Collegiate Church being a curious Fabrick contrived according to the most exact Draught and Model of Architecture and no where to be parallelled in those Parts for Workmanship of which taking a transient view we passed on again through Shrewsbury and the Strettons to Wigmore Strettons Wigmore which lies within the Confines of Herefordshire where are the Ruins of a Castle built by Edward the Senior and fortified by VVilliam Earl of Hereford from whom the Mortimers who were afterwards Earls of March did lineally descend That this Castle was formerly an Asylum or Sanctuary is generally reported by such as live near it who will tell you that whatsoever Malefactors fled hither for Refuge and could but get his Hand within the Ringle of the Gate secured himself from the Hands of Justice which indentical wreathed Ring of Iron they shewed us upon a Door of one of the Inns in the Town A. D. 1100. Ralph de Mortimer founded here a little College for Secular Canons which was 1197 changed into a Priory and endowed with more Lands by his Son Hugh Mortimer who removed hither the Black Canons from Scobbedon there placed by Oliver de Merlymond his Steward it was commended to the Patronage of St. James A. D. 921. a great Pagan Host of the East-Angles and Mercians came against this Place which the Saxon Chronicle calls Wigingamere but were beaten off from it by the Valour of its Inhabitants only with the loss of some Cattel which they took away with them Three Miles from Wigmore in the Road to Hereford is Mortimer's-Cross Mortimer's-Cross being a Way where four Roads meet so called from Mortimer Earl of March Son to Richard Duke of York betwixt whom and King Henry the Sixth's Friends and Allies was fought a bloody and terrible
Battle at that very Place where were slain on the King's Party as was computed 3800 Men before which Battel 't is said that the Sun appeared to the Earl of March like three Suns and suddenly joined altogether in one for which cause some imagine that he gave the Sun in its full Lustre for his Badge and Cognizance Having spent some short time again with our Friends and Acquaintance at Hereford and dispatched some Business which called us thither we passed on from thence to Dean Dean a Market Town in Gloucestershire which gives Name to a large Forest adjoining to it Dean Forest a Forest formerly so shaded with Trees and dangerous by reason of crooked winding ways that were generally infested with Robbers that King Henry the Sixth was fain to secure his Subjects by most strict Laws from the violence of their Assaults and daily Incursions but since the Woods have been thinned by the Iron Mines to whose uses they have been of late very subservient the Roads have not been annoyed with such troublesom Company After a short review of Bath and Wells we travelled to Glassenbury Glassenbury which place is famous in our old Historians for the ancientest Church in Great Britain being as they say Built by Joseph of Arimathea A. D. 41. But so far is the most Learned Bishop Stilling-fleet from giving any Credit to this Story that he looks upon it only as an Invention of the Monks of Glassenbury to serve their Interests by advancing the Reputation of their Monastery and instead of Joseph of Arimathea or Simon Zelotes or Mary Magdalen's coming hither he very rationally shews us how St. Paul is rather to be looked upon as the first Founder of a Christian Church in Britain and that there was Encouragement and Invitation enough for St. Paul to come hither not only from the infinite numbers of People which Caesar saith were here in his time but from the new Settlements that were daily making here by the Romans after the first Success which they had in the Time of Claudius when divers Colonies were drawn over hither Here was also the first Monastery in England Founded by St. Patrick A. D. 425. and afterwards liberally endowed by the Munificence of King Ina who caused his Subjects first to pay Peter-Pence to Rome whither he travelled himself and there at last ended his days St. Dunstan introduced Benedictine Monks and dedicated it to the Blessed Virgin Mary after which time it thrived wonderfully and became a small City full of stately Buildings and encompassed with a strong Wall a Mile in Circumference and had a Vault under Ground through which there was a Passage to the high Tower upon the Hill without the Town which is called the Tor And which is very remarkable the Abbot's Kitchen being 20 Foot high was built in the form of a Pyramid of pure Stone and divided in four Angles or Corners to each of which was allotted a Window and a Chimney but all of them went to rack and were razed to the Ground and there is nothing now left but the Ruins to proclaim its former Glory and Magnificence It would be too tedious to reckon up all the Kings of the West-Saxons with divers other eminent Persons who were all buried here or how at last Abbot Thurstan's Cruelty to his Monks some of which he killed and others barbarously wounded A. D. 1083. was very justly met withal and he severely fined by King William Rufus according to his Deserts But this I must not omit that this Place was a shelter to the Britains in the latter Times of the British Churches when they were miserably harassed and persecuted by the then Pagan Saxons and it might be of far greater request amongst the Britains because it was the place where their King Arthur was buried for I see no reason saith the Learned Bishop of Worcester to question that which Giraldus Cambrensis relates concerning the finding of the Body of King Arthur there in the time of Henry the Second with an Inscription on a Leaden Cross which in Latin expressed that King Arthur lay there buried in the Island of Avalon for Giraldus saith he was present and saw the Body which is likewise attested by the Historians of that time as Leland proves at large And the account given that his Body was laid so deep in the Earth for fear of the Saxons farther confirms that this was a place of Retreat in the British times but nor without the apprehension of their Enemies Invasion The Wolln●●-Tree and Holy Haw-thorn But to come nearer to our own Days here was something not many Years since very notable and strange the Walnut-Tree in the holy Church yard that did never put out any leaves before St. Barnabas Day and upon that very Day grew rank and full of leaves and the Hawthorn in Wiral Park that always on Christmas Day sprouted forth as if in May both deserve Credit as well as admiration of the truth of which we were credibly informed by diverse Persons inhabitants of this place who having then still some young Scions of each Tree remaining in their Gardens yet did not find them blossom like the other which through the malice and fury of some Person in the late Wars were cut down and destroyed From Glassenbury we rode to Taunton q. Thonton from the River Thone which runneth through it Taunton a large neat and Populous Town pleasantly situated beautified with fair Houses and goodly Churches and a spatious Market-place enriched with fertile Meadows and adorned with curious Gardens and Orchards 't is mostly inhabited by Clothiers driving a good Trade in Cloath and Serges made here and in the adjacent parts here was formerly an old Castle built by King Ina which Queen Aethelburga destroyed A. D. 722. and a Priory of Black Canons was also erected by William Gifford Bishop of Winton temp Hen. 1. to the Honour of St. Peter and St. Paul Passing through Wellington Wellington and Columpton in Devonshire another Market Town in this County the Road then led us to Columpton a small market Town in Devonshire which King Alfred by Will bequeathed to his younger Son In Devonshire the Air is sharp and wholesome the Land if not in some places so fruitful yet through the Husband-mans industry is made capable of good emprovement its chief Commodities are Wool and Kersies Sea Fish and Fowl and the Western parts are stored with Tin and Lead Mines and Load-stones have been found upon Dartmoor Rocks of good value and virtue The People of this Country are strong and well made and as they have a peculiar sort of Food which they call White-pots so the Women have a peculiar sort of Garment which they wear upon their Shoulders called Whittles they are like Mantles with fringes about the edges without which the common sort never ride to Market nor appear in publick In diverse places of this County the ways are so Rocky and narrow that 't is