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A07834 An itinerary vvritten by Fynes Moryson Gent. First in the Latine tongue, and then translated by him into English: containing his ten yeeres trauell through the tvvelue dominions of Germany, Bohmerland, Sweitzerland, Netherland, Denmarke, Poland, Jtaly, Turky, France, England, Scotland, and Ireland. Diuided into III parts. The I. part. Containeth a iournall through all the said twelue dominions: shewing particularly the number of miles, the soyle of the country, the situation of cities, the descriptions of them, with all monuments in each place worth the seeing, as also the rates of hiring coaches or horses from place to place, with each daies expences for diet, horse-meate, and the like. The II. part. Containeth the rebellion of Hugh, Earle of Tyrone, and the appeasing thereof: written also in forme of a iournall. The III. part. Containeth a discourse vpon seuerall heads, through all the said seuerall dominions. Moryson, Fynes, 1566-1630. 1617 (1617) STC 18205; ESTC S115249 1,351,375 915

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tyrannicall forme of gouernment and to their ignorance of Religion as also of liberall and manuall Arts not to the situation of the Prouinces I confesse that in generall Southerne men are now more frugall in diet and apparrell then Northerne But the Iewes and Southerne men are and euer haue beene great vsurers extortioners and amassers of treasure so as they must also be reputed couetous And as the Italians are most frugall so haue the Romanes in their riches beene monsters for Luxurie So as rhe clime cannot be the cause But indeede riches are cause of Pride and Luxurie as the examples of all times and nations doe teach And the same riches are cause of couetousnesse according to the Poet. Crescit amor nummi quantum ipsa pecunia crescit As money growes so groweth auatice Prodigality at this day not for the climes sake but for some other cauies may iustly be imputed to Northerne men yet this vice dispersing treasure vitiously is not so great a vice as that of rapine and couetousnesse hiding those treasures and burying them from vse Olde Writers taxe Southerne men most for Iealousie No doubt the most sharpe sights are sometimes dimmed and so for what cause so euer it must be confessed that the sharpe witted Southerne men are to this day madly iealous alwayes tormenting themselues with this restlesse passion and vsing their wiues like slaues yet no whit more freed thereby from fatall hornes though to preserue their wiues chastitie they permit the Stewes and that because they liue among men who no lesse vexe themselues in finding meanes to enioy these forbidden Loues then the other are vexed in the courses to preuent their enioying thereof and because their wiues so watched thinke themselues to bewray simplicity and ignorant folly if they omit any occasion of offending this way though it were with neuer so base a man Hauing taxed the wittie Southerne men with iealousie yet they in generall conclude that Northerne men are most suspitious and that vpon a contrary cause namely the defect of wit No doubt they who are most guilty of their owne defects take in worst part the whisperings priuate laughters of those that are in their company Yea I wil say of experience that I found the Italians nothing nice to shew their strong Forts to me and other strangers and that in Northerne parts the same were not to be seene by strangers or at least with great difficulty By which and like arguments casie to be brought I am induced to thinke that want of true iudgement is the cause of suspition but not the sole nor yet the chiefe cause thereof To omit many other causes sometimes an ill conscience makes men suspitious as we reade that our tyrant Richard the third vpon the least shadow or shaking of a leafe had his hand vpon his dagger Againe the best and wisest men are iustly suspitious when they liue among wicked men or haue necessarie affaires with them Therefore let Southerne men consider whether they vse not more to wound their owne consciences with guiltinesse of wicked deedes then Northerne men vse to doe and whether they be not more iustly to be accused of treacheries poysonings and like high crimes then the other For no doubt the iealous Southerne men by guiltinesse of these crimes in spite of their wit and wisedome shall become in all kinds most suspitious Olde Writers affirme that Southerne men are more prone to madnesse then the Northerne and they report that infinite numbers of mad men are found in Affrique where many Almes-houses are built onely to receiue the sicke of this kinde and that the South parts of Spayne doe abound with distracted men And this is agreeable to nature and the Rules of naturall Philosophie For howsoeuer the situation of places cannot properly be the cause of any vertue or vice yet it is probable that it may cause diseases or health Bodine against the iudgement of Hipocrates proueth that Northerne men are more venerious then Southerne First because our bodies haue greater inward heate in Winter then in Sommer and so in Winter are more apt for the act of generation the same reason being of a Northerne and Southerne bodie as of Winter and Sommer I should thinke that the hot and dry Southerne men are most prone to venery but that the colde and moist Northerne Men are most potent therein Againe Aristotle saith that they who ride most are most venerious which Bodine also obiecteth against Hipocrates who falsely holds that the Northerne mens riding makes them lesse fruitfull in generation It is most certaine by our and all mens experience that great part of Asia and especially the Southerne Prouinces lie at this day waste or little inhabited though Poligamy be permitted among them I meane the hauing of many wiues for one man and that all Europe on the contrary is wonderfully populous and especially in the most Northerne parts though no man hath more then one wife allowed him By this one argument it is most manifest that the Northerne men are most potent for generation And it is no lesse manifest that Southerne men haue more desire by the multitude of their wiues their libidinous vsing the loue of boyes and all mens consent so generall as it needs no further proofe yea men of experience say that Northerne men only trauelling towards the South are more and more troubled with this restlesse desire Bodine disputes that Southerne men are longer liued then Northerne contrary to the opinion of Pliny First because Elephants who as Aristotle saith haue the longest liues of all other are onely found in the South I remember that the Turkes at this day repute them old weomen or past the age of loue who are come to the age of 25 yeeres and that my selfe did see few or no men in Asia who had gray beards and it any had grey hayres it was not for the number of their yeeres but because they grow old sooner then Northern men I cannot so well speake of other Nations where I liued a short time and as a stranger but I remember that in Benerly a Towne of Holdernes in England there liued in our age one Iemings a Carpenter whom the men of those parts report to haue liued 120 yeeres and that he married a young woman some few yeeres before his death by whom being of good fame he had foure children and that his eldest sonne by his first wife then liuing was 100 yeeres old or thereabouts but was so decrepite as he was rather taken for the father then the sonne And lest I should seeme by one Swallow to make summer as the Prouerbe is the men of Hereford-shire can witnes that such examples are not rare in England where in the raigne of King Iames they made a morris-dance of fifteene persons all borne in the same County or within the compasse of 24 miles who made 1500 yeeres betweene them some being little lesse then 100 yeers old and
for all that beg are sent thither and they haue many of these houses These are the most remarkeable things in the Churches of this sextary The third sextary or sixth part of the City on this side the channell meaning towards the gulfe of Venice vulgarly is called Ilsestiero di Canaregio of the canes or pipes which they were wont to vse in the building of ships In the Church of the Prophet Ieremy built by three families Morosini Malipieri and Runandi the sepulcher of Saint Magnus who built eight Churches when the City was first founded and the Image of the blessed Virgin much adored In the Church of Saint Marciali the Images aswel of the great Altar as of the Altar of Angelo Raphaeli In the Apostles Church where excellent sermons are made in the Lent the carued Image of our Lady vpon the Altar and her picture vpon the same painted by Saint Luke In the Church of Saint Iohn Chrysostome the pictures of three Theologicall vertues of Saint Marke and the carued Images of the Virgin and the Apostles In the Church of Saint Giob the ingrauing of the chappell of the Grimani and of the Altar of the Foscari the picture of Christ in the garden with his Apostles sleeping and the pictures of the next Altar namely that of the Virgin Saint Sabastian and Saint Giob In the Church of Saint Mary de serui the pictures of the great Altar especially of the Virgins assumption and also of the Virgins Altar and of Saint Augustins Altar especiall that of the wise men adoring Christ and the carued Images of another Altar the Marble sepulcher of Duke Andrea Vendramini being the fairest of all other in the City and the Oratory of the banished men of Lucea who first brought into this City the weauing of silke and of whom many were made Gentlemen of Venice In the Church of Saint Mary del ' Orto the huge Image of Saint Christopher the History of Moses and the prophicies of the last iudgement painted the painting of the arched-roof rare for perspectiue Art and che chiefe of that kinde the Monument of Iasper Contarini Cardinall of the Marble of Paros and the pillers of our Ladies Altar with many Marble stones In the Church of Saint Mary de Crostechieri the ancient pictures the notable pall of Saint Laurence worth seuen thousand crownes and the pictures in the chappel of Lewis Vsperi In the Church of Saint Lucia the Monument and chappell of the Saints In the chappell of Saint Luigi the great Altar fairest of those built of wood In the Church of Saint Mary of the Miracles the fairest of any Nunnery for the beauty and rare stones the walles couered with Marble two Marble Images of two children vnder the Organs the works of famous Praxitiles the Images of marble of Paros the stones of Porphery and Ophytes wonderfully carued the great Altar of Marble ingrauen with great Art the brasen Images of Saint Peter Saint Paul and of Angels These are the things most remarkeable In the Church of Saint Mary of Mercy Sansouine witnesseth this Epitaph which I will set downe left any should thinke incredible the like practises of Papists against Emperours and Iohn the King of England in these words To Ierom Sauina a Citizen of Venice Prior of Saint Maries notably learned in good Arts but more renowmed for piety which hee also shewed at his death towards his enemy who gaue him poyson in the challice at the Lords Supper by many arguments of his charity He died in the yeere MDCI. Also in the great schoole the same is witnessed in these wordes To Ierom Sauina wickedly killed by poyson giuen O horrible villany in our Lords Supper c. The fourth sextary or sixth part of the City and first of those beyond the channell meaning towards the Territorie of Paduoa is vulgarly called of the chiefe Church Il sestiero di San ' Polo In which Church of Saint Paul the most remarkeable things are these the picture of Christ washing his Apostles feet the pall of siluer guilded and the precious stones vpon the great Altar the pictures of the Altar of the holy Sacrament and of the blessed Virgin and the Images of Saint Andrew and the Apostles vpon pillars In the very faire market place of the same Church of old a market was weekely held and to the yeere 1292 the market was held heere on Wednesday and in the market place of Saint Marke on the Saturday but at this day none is held here but both in the place of Saint Marke for the benefit of those that dwell there and that the houses may bee more deerely let which belong to Saint Marke Neere the Church of Saint Siluestro the Patriarkes of Grado dwelt till the Bishop of Castello Oliuolo was made Patriarke In the Church of Saint Iames of Rialto narrow but very faire the precious stones and the pictures of great Art and antiquitie and the fiue Altars In the Church of Saint Mary Gloriosa faire and great the Belfrey stately built the Monument of the most famous Painter Titiano two Images of Marble neere the great doore the Marble Image of Saint Iohn ouer against the Florentine chappell the chancell paued with Marble and adorned with the grauen Images of the Prophets at the charge of the family Morosini the rare pictures of the great Altar the Epitaph of Francis Bernardo who being imployed into England in his yong yeeres made peace betweene King Henry and the French King Francis which many great men had attempted in vaine and for this braue act was Knighted by both the Kings These things in this church are most remarkeable The fifth sextary and the second beyond the channel of the chiefe Church is called il Sestiero di Santa Croce in which Church being a cloyster of Nunnes Duke Dominick Morosini lies buried with this inscription Here lies Dominick Morosini Duke of Venice with Sophia his Dutchesse hee was a good Duke and most wise full of faith and truth c. He tooke the City Tyrus and vnder him Istria and Pola were subdued with fifty gallies where of were Captaines his sonne and Marino Gradonico This glorious Duke died in the yeere MCLVI Also the Marble pillers of the great Altar the brasen Angels and the brasen Images of Christ rising from the dead of Saint Francis and Saint Anthony In the Church of Saint Simion Prophet the picture of Christs supper with his Apostles In the Church of St. Giacomo dell ' Orio a piller esteemed for a Iewell a Marble pulpit one of the fairest in the City and the Images of the chappell for christning In the Church of Saint Eustace the pictures of Christ whipped of Christ carrying his crosse and of Christ praying in the garden all of great Art In the Church of Saint Mary Mater Domini the great Altar of most pure siluer and the passion of Christ ingrauen the Altar of the blessed Virgin with her picture and the Altar of the holy Sacrament
write any lies but that which I write is as true as strange When I returned into England some foure yeeres after I would not open the barrell I sent from Prage nor looke on the paper Booke in which I had written this dreame till I had called my sisters and some friends to be witnesses where my selfe and they were astonished to see my written dreame answere the very day of my Fathers death I may lawfully sweare that which my kinsmen haue heard witnessed by my brother Henry whilst he liued that in my youth at Cambridge I had the like dreame of my Mothers death where my brother Henry lying with me early in the morning I dreamed that my mother passed by with a sad countenance and told me that shee could not come to my commencement I being within fiue moneths to proceed Master of Arts and shee hauing promised at that time to come to Cambridge And when I related this dreame to my brother both of vs awaking together in a sweat he protested to me that he had dreamed the very same and when wee had not the least knowledge of our Mothers sickenesse neither in our youthfull affections were any whit affected with the strangenesse of this dreame yet the next Carrier brought vs word of our mothers death Being as I haue said certified of my Fathers death at Nurnberg and thinking not fit to goe on my iourney into Italy and yet being loath to returne into England before I had finished my purposed voyage I tooke the middle counsell to returne into the Low Countries that in those neere places I might dispose of my small patrimony for in England gentlemen giue their younger sonnes lesse then in forraine parts they giue to their bastards and so might leaue the same in the hands of some trusty friend Yet lest I should loose the opportunity of seeing Augsburg meaning to returne some other way into Italy I resolued to goe from hence to Augsburg and then to crosse ouer the West parts of Germany and so to passe along the Riuer Rhein into the Low Countries To Augsburg being two dayes iourney and a halfe I hired of the City Carrier in whose company I went an Horse for two Dollors as I remember The Merchants of Nurnberg and Augsburg giue pensions to eight of these Carriers daily passing betweene those Cities besides the profit they make of letters and other things they carry by horse The first day after breake-fast we rode one mile in a thicke wood and another mile through sandy corne fields somewhat wooddy both in the territory of the Nurnbergers and foure miles more in the territory of the Margraue of Anspach to Blinfield where each man paid for his supper and horse meat sixe batzen The second day we rode foure miles to Monheime through a wood of Iuniper full of blacke berries and barberies at the end whereof was a free City called Wassenberge and after through fruitfull hils and valleies of corne all the territory excepting the free City belonging to the Marshall of the Emperour not of the Empire when we came almost to our iourneies end the Carrier had a guide giuen him according to custome for theeues vsing to lie by that way Monheime belongs to the Phaltz-graue of Newburg being of the family of the Phaltz-graues of Rhein and there we paid each man for his dinner and horse-meat thirty foure creitzers which make eight batzen and a halfe and there we tasted Iuniper wine which I neuer remember to haue tasted else where After dinner we rode two miles and a halfe through fruitfull hils of corne and a small wood of Okes though all the woods of vpper Germany be commonly of firre bearing greene leaues all winter as those of inferiour Germany towards Denmarke be all of Okes. By the way we passed a Monastery granted to the Phaltzgraue of Rhein by the Emperour and a free City of the Empire called Donaward of the two Riuers Danow Werd meeting there and there we passed by bridge the Danow running by the City Then wee rode to Weschendorff two miles and a halfe more through fruitfull fields of corne pastures the Country belonging to the Fugares Citizens of Augsburg to diuers other Lords The Castle of this place belongs to the said Fugares who are rich famous for their treasure though they haue princely reuenues the title of barons yet stil are merchants here each man paid for his supper hors-meat 8. batzen a half The third day in the morning we rode three miles to Augsburg through a fruitfull plaine of corne without the wals whereof on the East and North and some part of the South sides the fields are drowned with waters and men passe to the Citie by causies for on these sides the ground lieth low but on the West side is all the beauty of the City where the houses are seated vpon a hill and ther is a place for the Merchants to meet called the Berle and likewise the Senate house in the street Weingasse so called of the Wine cellars There also be many Pallaces stately built of the Fugares and other Citizens all the building is of free stone sixe or seuen roofes high but in other parts it is more poorely built of timber and clay On this West part of the City is the Gate called Kuknerthore and the ditches are dry as they be round about the City the wals are of stone which being on all other sides narrow are on this side broad for vpon the wals of this side there be little houses built for fiue hundred Garrison Souldiers to dwell in with their wiues and families which place is vulgarly called Die schwang Here the Souldiers keep watch each three daies by turne each of them haue for pay six guldens by the moneth and there is a market place whether the Souldiers vpon any difference vse to challenge each other On this West side is another gate vulgarly called Der Einlasse by which passengers are receiued into the City by night when the gates are shut and this their entrance is so curiously admitted as many strangers desirous to see the fashion suffer themselues of purpose to be locked out at night and willingly giue a reward to the souldiers letting them in when they receiue in those that are shut out diuers gates are opened and no man being seene to open them are presently shut on the back of them that come in then they being thus shut as it were in a prison a box is put downe to them in which they cast a reward which done the Watch-men out of win dowes behold each man that is to enter and so being safe from all treason let them passe by the last gate into the City On the South side there be two gates Roatthore and Smitbogenthore on the East side the gate Iacoberthore and a little gate called Holeblatten-thorelin On the East side the Riuer Werda the Brooke Lecca running towards the North in three
for this cause they say the foundations of the houses being laid in water cost as much or more as the houses themselues The Riuer Amster of which and the word dam the City is named running from the South through three lakes entereth this city and passing through it fals into the Riuer Tay on the North side The City hath fiue gates which are shut at dinners and suppers though the danger of the warre be farre from them There be two Churches in which they haue two sermons each second day and foure on sunday The City lay in length from the North to the South but adding the plot of the new City it is of a round forme The streetes are narrow and the building of bricke with a low roofe shewed antiquity They haue two Almeshouses called Gasthausen that is Houses for strangers which were of old Monasteries One of these houses built round was a Cloyster for Nunnes wherein sixty beds at this time were made for poore weomen diseased and in another chamber thereof were fifty two beds made for the auxiliary Soulders of England being hurt or sicke and in the third roome were eighty one beds made for the hurt and sicke Souldiers of other Nations to which souldiers and sicke weomen they giue cleane sheetes a good diet and necessary clothes with great cleanlinesse and allow them Physitians Surgions to cure them and most of the Cities in these Prouinces haue like houses Here I lodged with an English-man and paid for dinner and supper twenty stiuers and for a guest inuited to supper ten stiuers and for three pints or chopines of Spanish wine twenty one stiuers From Amsterdam I went in a boat three miles to Harlam and paid for my passage foure stiuers we had not passed farre from Amsterdam when we came to a damme shutting out the flowing of the sea for the waters are salt thus farre though the ebbing and the flowing of the sea can hardly be discerned at Amsterdam for the depth of the Riuer Tay aud because Inland seas shew little ebbing or flowing Our boat was lifted ouer this damme by ropes and so let fall into the water on the other side for which the Mariners paid tribute There is another damme for greater Barkes and as by these dammes they let in waters to the Land at pleasure so they haue other dams at Torgay to let them out againe into the Sea when the Land hath too much water From hence we had the Sea-shore all the way on the North side not farre distant and on both sides of the water in which we passed were faire pastures parted with ditches of water The Riuer running from Amsterdam from the East to the North doth turne neere Harlam towards the South and diuideth the City which on all sides is compasied with Nauigable waters On the North side neere the gate Ians-port Don Frederick sonne to the Duke of Alun pitched his tent in a meadow when he besieged the City with the Spanish forces and much spoiled those parts beating downe Gentlemens faire houses dwelling frequently in that part with his Artillery playing into this street hauing the name of the Knights of Saint Iohn On the same side are two other gates Sayle-port and Cruyse-port and without them toward the sea being halfe a mile distant are very faire pastures but there is no riuer nor ditch that leads from the City to the sea For these Prouinces haue onely three passages to goe to sea one betweene Rotherodam and Bril a Fort of Zealand the second at Vlishing another Port of Zealand and the third from Amsterdam betweene two Ilands called rhe Fly and Shelling Wee comming from Amsterdam to Harlam entred the Citie by the gate Kleine holt Port on the East side where the very Almes-houses were beaten downe in the aforesaid siege of the Spaniards and the walles then beaten downe were not yet rebuilt On the South side is the fifth gate Grote-holt Port the street whereof is the fairest next that of the Knights of Saint Iohn On this side was a wall of stone but at this time they were building another very strong wall beyond it of earth In the New-street is the house for exercise of shooting and another old house for the same vse and one market-place sweetly shaded with trees and a second market-place of good length for the selling of Cattle Likewise on this side another part of the Spanish Army lay and destroyed a most pleasant Wood of which the gate and street haue the name And they report that the Spaniards taking the City vsed great cruelty to all but especially to the Garrison of the English Souldiers The Histories witnesse that three hundred were beheaded and more then two hundred drowned in the Lake called Harlam-mere On the West side the Citie is compassed with a wall of earth and there bee faire pastures betweeue the City and the Sea Among the Churches that which is called the Great is the fairest and our Ladies Church vulgarly called Vnser-fraw kirke is the next in beautie All the sea coast of Holland is a sandy downe in which are great store of conies This Citie makes great store of linnen clothes and hath some fiue hundred spinsters in it The water heere as most of these Cities standing and little or nothing mouing is subiect to stinking so as they are forced to fetch water for brewing by boats Here I paied for supper and my part of wine twenty stiuers and for my dinner without wine thirteene stiuers About a mile from the City is a very sweet Hil called Weligheberg whether the brides vse to walke and there take their leaues of the Virgins And in the mid way towards Almer is another Hil where the Counts of Holland vvere vvont to bee consecrated In the market-place ouer against the Pallace they shew the house of one Laurence Iohn vvhom they brag to bee the first inuentor of the Presse for Printing and they shew two bels of the brasse of Corinth which they say were brought from Pelusium a City in Affrick vpon the Nyle From Harlam wee hired a waggon for eight stiuers and came fiue miles in fiue houres space to Leyden our waggoner baiting his horses in the mid way but staying very little In the way we had on all sides faire pastures and passed by the Lake or Mere of Harlam lying towards the South and the sea bankes vvithin sight towards the North. The high wayes in these Prouinces seeme to be forced and made by Art being sandy and very dry though all the pastures on both sides bee compassed with frequent ditches of water At the gates of Leyden the men goe out of the vvaggon and onely vvomen may be carried into the City lest as I thinke the vvheeles of the loaded vvaggons should breake the bricke pauements of the streets Hence I returned presently to Amsterdam that I might receiue money sent me by exchange So I hired a vvaggon for eight stiuers my part from hence to Harlam and
foure Court-yards with a large Garden which was then somewhat wild and vnmanured At this time the Ciuill warre being ended the King began to build a Gallerie the beginning of which worke was very magnificent The next day after I had seene the King I returned on foote eight leagues to Sone Heere I found post-Horses returning to Paris and hiring one of them for twentie soulz I rode eight miles through fruitfull fieldes of Corne and pleasant Hilles planted with Vines and so returned to Paris entring by the Gate of Saint Victoire in the Vniuersitie Now my Crownes which I had saued from the foresaid theeues were by little and little spent and I who in my long iourney had neuer wanted money but had rather furnished others that wanted with no small sums was forced to treat with vnknowne Merchants for taking money vpon exchange But howsoeuer I had in other places dealt with noble Merchants yet here I found my selfe to bee fallen into the hands of base and costiue Merchants who perhaps hauing been deceiued by English Gentlemen driuen by want to serue in the warres of France had not the least respect of mee for my misfortune among Theeues nor yet for our common Countrey It happened that at this time there were in Paris two English Knighis brethren namely Sir Charles and Sir Henry Dauers who for an ill accident liued then as banished men And to them I made my misfortune knowne who like Gentlemen of their qualitie had a iust feeling thereof especially for that they were acquainted with Sir Richard Moryson my brother and they would willingly haue lent mee money But I will tell a truth well knowne These brothers vpon good bonds were to haue receiued some thousands of Crownes a few moneths past in the Temple Hall which is one of the Innes of Court of London for those that professe the English Law This being made knowne by one of the debtors the Queene confiscated those Crownes as belonging to banished men Whereupon these Knightes being to attend the French King to Lyons in his warre vpon Sauoy were much driuen to their shiftes to get money for that iourney Yet did they not cast off all care to prouide for me but with great importunitie perswaded a starueling Merchant to furnish me with ten French Crownes When I had receiued them I spent some few daies in refreshing my selfe at Paris They account fortie eight miles from Paris to Roane whether I went by boat and payed a French Crowne for my passage The first day we passed eighteene miles to Poissy a most faire and famous Nunnerie and towards the euening wee passed by the Kings Pallace S. Germain The next day we passed twentie leagues to Andale and by the way passed by a bridge diuiding the County of France from the Dutchy of Normandy and did see the Pallace Galeon and a most faire Monastery Then wee passed foure miles by water to Port S. Antoine and one mile by land Then wee hired another boat in which we passed fiue leagues to Roane and I payed for this passage three soulz This our way was by pleasant Ilands hauing on both sides pleasant Hilles planted with Vines and fruit-trees The Citie of Roane is seated on the North side of the Riuer Seyne partly in a Plaine partly vpon sides of Hilles The building is for the most part of Free-stone brought from the Citie Cane and vpon a Hill towards the North without the walles the Fort S. Cateline was seated when King Henrie the fourth besieged Roane and then the Fort much anoyed the quarter of the English auxiliarie forces but now this Fort was altogether demolished Concerning expences of diet in these parts I spent at Paris in the Innes fifteene soulz each meale and at Roane twelue soulz and at some Innes by the way fifteene soulz but whosoeuer payes for his supper hath nothing to pay for his bed But before the late Ciuill warre they payed no more at Roane then eight soulz for a meale Passengers who stay long in the Citie vse to hire a chamber which at Paris is giuen for two French Crownes by the moneth if it be well furnished and otherwise for lesse They that at Paris hier a chamber in this sort vse to buy their meate in Cookes shops and hauing agreed for it the Cookes bring it to their chamber warme and with pleasant sauce And surely all things for diet were cheaper at Paris then they vse to be at London and since they vse to buy small peeces of meate a solitarie passenger shall in that respect spend the lesse Other passengers agree with some Citizen for diet and chamber which may bee had at Paris in conuenient sort for one hundred and fiftie French Crownes by the yeere and at Roane for one hundred and twentie but before the last Ciuill warre it might haue been had for one hundred or eightie and sometimes for sixtie French Crownes At Roane I now payed for my supper twelue soulz and the next day eleuen soulz for my dinner The night following wee rode fourteene leagues to Diepe in a most pleasant way diuided into inclosed Pastures yeelding great store of Apletrees not onely in the hedges but also in the open fieldes About midnight we tooke some rest and meate in a poore and solitaire Inne of a Village but with such feare as wee were ready to flie vpon the least noise From Roane to Dieppe I hired a horse for thirtie soulz and in this last Inne I payed twelue soulz for my meate and fiue soulz for my horse-meate Dieppe is a pleasant Citie and the greater part thereof especially la Rue grande that is the great street is seated in a plaine vpon the Hauen but it is compassed with Mountaines and is diuided into two parts by an Arme of the Sea The greatest part of the building is of Timber and Clay like our building of England I had spent at Paris most part of the ten Crownes I there receiued and when I came from Roane I perceiued that I should presently fall into want of money Being in these straites I went to the younger Paynter one of the English Posts passing betweene London and Paris and now returning in my company to London and to him in few words I made my case knowne who willingly yeelded to beare my charges to London hauing me still in his company for a pledge At Dieppe I payed fifteene soulz for each meale and ten soulz for my licence to passe ouer Sea and fiue soulz of gift to one of the Officers and tenne soulz for my part of a boat hired to draw our ship out of the Hauen of Dieppe After we had failed fourteene houres vpon Tuesday the thirteenth of May after the old stile in the yeere 1595 early in the morning we landed in England at Douer and I payed a French Crowne for my passage in the ship and sixe English pence for my passage in a boate from the ship to that Port of blessed England But we were fearce
landed when we were cited to appeare before the Maior and his Assistants Where for my part the more poore I was in apparrell the more frowardly I behaued my felte towards them as many good mindes are most proud in the lowest fortunes so as they began to intreate me rudely as if I were some Popish Priest till by chance a Gentleman one of the Maiors Assistants asking my name and being familiarly acquainted with my brother by priuat discourse with me vnderstood that I had been robbed in France whereupon hee gaue his word for mee vnto the Maior and so walked with mee to our Inne There he shewed so much respect and loue to me and after my refusall of mony from him so frankely gaue his word for me to the English Post as he was not only willing to furnish me with what money I would but himselfe and the Dutch Gentlemen my Consorts in that iourney much more respected me though poorely apparelled then they had formerly done Assoone as I came to London I paied the ten French Crownes due by my bill of exchange to the foresaid French Merchant and not onely payed to the English Post the money hee had disbursed for mee by the way but gaue him sixe French Crownes of free gift in thankfulnesse for this courtesie At London it happened that in regard of my robbing in France when I entered my sisters house in poore habit a seruant of the house vpon my demaund answered that my sister was at home but when he did see me goe vp the staires too boldly as he thought without a guide hee not knowing mee in respect of my long absence did furiously and with threatning words call me backe and surely would haue been rude with me had I not gone vp faster then he could follow me and iust as I entred my sisters chamber he had taken hold on my old cloake which I willingly flung of to be rid of him Then by my sisters imbraces he perceiued who I was and stole backe as if he had trodden vpon a Snake The third Booke CHAP. I. Of my iourney to Stoade through the Vnited Prouinces of Netherland and vpon the Sea-coast of Germany then to Brunswick and the right way to Nurnburg Augspurg and Inspruck in Germany and from thence to Venice in Italy and so by the Mediterranean Seas and the Ilands thereof to Ierusalem In which iourney I slightly passe ouer the places described in my former passage those waies FRom my tender youth I had a great desire to see forraine Countries not to get libertie which I had in Cambridge in such measure as I could not well desire more but to enable my vnderstanding which I thought could not be done so well by contemplation as by experience nor by the eare or any sence so well as by the eies And hauing once begun this course I could not see any man without emulation and a kind of vertuous enuy who had seene more Cities Kingdomes and Prouinces or more Courts of Princes Kings and Emperours then my selfe Therefore hauing now wandred through the greatest part of Europe and seene the chiefe Kingdomes thereof I sighed to my selfe in silence that the Kingdome of Spaine was shut vp from my sight by the long warre betweene England and Spaine except I would rashly cast my selfe into danger which I had already vnaduisedly done when I viewed the Citie and Fort of Naples and the Citie of Milan And howsoeuer now being newly returned home I thought the going into more remote parts would be of little vse to me yet I had an itching desire to see Ierusalem the fountaine of Religion and Constantinople of old the seate of Christian Emperours and now the seate of the Turkish Ottoman Being of this mind when I returned into England it happened that my brother Henrie was then beginning that voyage hauing to that purpose put out some foure hundred pounds to be repaied twelue hundred pounds vpon his returne from those two Cities and to lose it if he died in the iourney I say he had thus put out the most part of his small estate which in England is no better with Gentlemens younger sonnes nor so good as with bastards in other places aswell for the English Law most vnmeasurably fauouring elder brothers as let me boldly say it for the ignorant pride of fathers who to aduance their eldest sonnes driue the rest to desperate courses and make them vnable to liue or to spend any money in getting vnderstanding and experience so as they being in wants and yet more miserable by their Gentrie and plentifull education must needes rush into all vices for all wise men confesse that nothing is more contrary to goodnesse then pouerty My brother being partner with other Gentlemen in this fortune thought this putting out of money to be an honest meanes of gaining at least the charges of his iourney and the rather because it had not then been heard in England that any man had gone this long iourney by land nor any like it excepting only Master Iohn Wrath whom I name for honour and more specially hee thought this gaine most honest and iust if this iourney were compared with other base aduentures for gaine which long before this time had been were then in vse And I confesse that this his resolution did not at the first sight dislike me For I remembred that this manner of gaine had of old been in vse among the inhabitants of the Low-Countries and the Sea-Coasts of Germany and so it is yet in vse with them I remembred that no meane Lords and Lords sonnes and Gentlemen in our Court had in like sort put out money vpon a horserace or speedie course of a horse vnder themselues yea vpon a iourney on foote I considered that those kindes of gaining onely required strength of body whereas this and the like required also vigor of minde yea that they often weakened the body but this and the like alwaies bettered the mind I passe ouer infinite examples of the former customes and will onely adde that Earles Lords Gentlemen and all sorts of men haue vsed time out of mind to put out money to bee repaied with aduantage vpon the birth of their next childe which kinde of gaine can no way bee compared with the aduentures of long iournies yea I will boldly say it is a base gaine where a man is so hired to that daliance with his wife and to kill a man so he may get a boy as if he were to be incouraged to a game of Olympus Being led with these reasons I liked his counsell and made my selfe his consort in that iourny And I had now giuen out vpon like condition mony to some few friends when perceiuing the common opinion in this point to be much differing from mine and thereupon better considering this matter and obseruing as a stranger that had beene long out of my Countrey that these kind of aduentures were growne very frequent whereof some were vndecent some
pressed them to confesse their sinnes and so to receiue the Lords Supper which when they refused to doe it was apparant to the Friars that they were of the reformed Religion whom they terme heretikes Whereupon the Friars beganne to neglect them I will not say to hate them and while the two which were wounded staied for recouery of their health and so detained the other two with them it happened that the third fell sicke So as none had their health now but Master Verseline who louingly and like a seruant more then a friend prouided all necessaries for his companion Master Bacon till at last himselfe also fell sicke and was the first of them that died Then within eight daies space all the rest died either for that they were neglected by the Friers which I thinke sufficient in that Countrey to cast away any in their case or by their too much care namely by poison as some suspect for the Friars haue one of their order who is skilfull in physicke and hath a chamber furnished with cooling waters sirops and other medicines most fit for that Countrey When they were dead the Friars gaue into the Turkes hands the bodies of the two Flemmings and Master Verseline who had little store of crownes which belonged to the great Turke as heire to all strangers and the Turkes permitted them to be buried vpon Mount Syon without the wals in the Church yard proper to the Christians of Europe But Master Bacon ouerliuing the rest and now seeing his life to depend vpon the Friars care of him shewed a Nouice Friar long bracelets of peeces of gold twined about his arme and promising to giue them all to him and greater rewards if he would goe with him into England so as he would take care of him in his sickenesse he had perswaded the young Friar to goe with him into England and to promise him faithfull seruice there yet when this Nouice at his confession made this knowne and after verified as much to the Guardian and chiefe Friars I know not whether the hope of this booty made him die sooner but I am sure he liued very few daies after And giue me leaue to tell the truth these Friars either to gaine his money which was due to the Great Turke or for feare that inquisition should be made by the Turkes after the cause of his death appearing by manifest signes vpon his body as others suspected and reported I say these Friers buried this Gentleman in a yard of their Monastery secretly which if the Great Turke or any of his Magistrates had knowne no doubt they would gladly haue taken this occasion to extort much money from the Frires since by the like forged accusations they vse sometimes to oppresse them the very Turkes hauing at other times themselues buried dead bodies within the circuit of the Monastery and after caused them to be digged vp as if they had beene casually found and then crying that their Ottoman was deceiued put the Friars to pay large ransomes for redeeming of their liues And let no man wonder that these hungry Gouernours of Cities and Prouinces in Turkey should vse like frauds to intrap Christians as they doe very frequently since they buy their Offices and many times are recalled before they be warme in their seats if any man at Constantinople offer larger summes for their imployment So as this one Prouince of Palestine and one City of Ierusalem though hauing small or no trafficke hath had in one yeeres space foure Zaniacci the old being recalled to Constantinople assoone as his successour had outbribed him there And this is one of the greatest mischiefes in this Empire since starueling flies sucke much more then those that are fully gorged The foresaid Zaniacco is chiefe Gouernour for military and ciuill affaires of all Pallestine and lies at Ierusalem in the house of Pontius Pilate His Substitute or Liefetenant is called Catake who cast one of our consorts for a time into prison because he complained of the Turkish exactions and his owne pouerty The third Magistrate is called Cady who gouernes Ecclesiastiall matters and dwelt in Salomons house as they call it at Ierusalem neere the yard of the old Temple of the Iewes in which now a Turkish Mosche was built and of this man we had our leaue to enter the City and to see the sepulcher and being called before him we were commanded to put off our shooes he sitting crosse leg'd like a Tailor on the ground vpon a Turkey Carpet The fourth Magistrate was called Agha who kept the Castle of Ierusalem and when we walked one euening on that part of the roofe of our Monastery whence we had the fairest prospect into the City he sent a messenger to command vs to retire from beholding the Castle or otherwise he would discharge a peece of Ordinance at vs. CHAP. III. Of our iourney from Ierusalem by land to Haleppo by Sea to Tripoli in Syria by land to Haleppo and Scanderona and of our passage by Sea to the Iland Candia VPon Friday the fourteenth of Iune in the yeere 1596 we went out of Ierusalem and by the same way and in the same manner as wee came rode backe to Ramma deliuering to our guide as many zechines as before to pay for the Turkish exactions and to our Muccari for their Asses which we had hired Neither did any memorable thing happen to vs by the way saue that when we came neere to Ramma and by chance rode ouer the place of buriall for the Turks where some women were then mourning for their dead friends they thinking it a reproch that we should ride ouer their graues did with inraged countenances fling stones at vs till wee appeased them by dismounting from our Asses The fifteenth of Iune we came backe to Ioppa where our guide gaue three meidines to a Ianizare that hee would beate with a cudgell certaine Arabians who had offered vs wrong by the way which hee did readily and roundly Then without delay we went aboard our little Greeke Barke which according to our bargaine at Cyprus staied here for our returne For the Master thereof was further tied to transport vs from hence to Tripoli in Syria neither had he yet receiued full paiment for transporting vs hither the money being left in Cyprus with an Italian Merchant who was to pay it him at his returne if hee brought a testimony vnder our hands that he had performed his bargaine to vs. This condition we made prouidently and by aduice of experienced men for otherwise the Master of our Barke vpon any profitable occasion would haue left this port before our returne from Ierusalem and wee should hardly haue found another Barke here in a place not much frequented with ships Besides that the restraint of the money not to be payed but vpon a testimony brought vnder our hands was a good caution that he should not vse vs ill nor any way betray vs. The sixteenth of Iune vpon
was appointed to doe till the carriage and horse should be passed And now the Lord Deputies Vanguard being come to the passage of the said water maintained a resolure skermish with the Rebels on the left hand and altogether secured the Earles troopes on that side Therebels thus beaten on both sides left some one hundred shot to skirmish with the Lord Deputies vanguard and all retired to the Earle of Southamptons reare and came desperatly on our men both with horse and foot But Sir Henry Follyot made a very good stand and Sir Oliuer Lambert fearing left our men should be distressed the more to incourage them tooke his colours in his owne hand and together with some 30 of the Earle of Southamptons Vangards best men sent back to the Rere hastened towards the Assaliants to second the Earle who at that time with some 6 horse did charge the assailing Rebels and beate them a musket shot back still pursuing them til they hauing spent their powder and throwne their staues darts and innumerable stones recouered the place where Tyrone stood himselfe with some 220 horse and 200 foote in sight besides a far greater number hid in the woods which neuer came vnto this fight When our men had thus gained much ground the Earle commaunded them to march towards the Army and presently Sir Richard Wingfeild the Marshal of the army of Ireland came to the with order from the L. Dep. that since the repulsed rebels were not like to giue any second charge they should continue their march following his L ps troopes directly to the Newry In this conflict 2 of our men were slaine Capt. Atherton and Mast. Cheut were shot and some few hurt with swords and such weapons On the rebels side there were in all 1200 foot thus aduantagiously lodged and 140 horse and Tirone himself confessed that ten of his men died with ouer-trauelling in this hasty march besides such as were killed whose number could not certainely be learned The 21 of May his Lp. was aduertised from Sir Arthur Chichester Gouernour of Carickfergus that the English sent to plant at Loughsoyle were safely landed with small resistance and had taken Newcastle belonging to Sir Iohn Odogherty whose country they had spoiled wasted and that some of them sent forth vpon a draught had taken good store of cowes and killed some of Odonnels people and that they were now busie in fortifying about the Derric so as many of that country Southward did passe their cowes and moueables into Scotland depending specially vpon the hopes of Spanish succours That Brian Mac Art a rebel bordering on Carickfergus had left his fastnes of Kilultagh and now lay on the borders of Lecale where he purposed to assaile him the rather because he had sent 200 men to assist Tyrone that diuers Gentlemen and others did daily flie from the rebels and resort vnto him with their goods to the number of 1200 cowes and more would come but that he doubted their faithfulnes That to free himself of the imputation to keepe Iames Mac Surley an enemy till he had reuenged on him his brothers death he had imployed Colonell Egerton to inuite that rebell to submission but receiued onely temporising answeres whereupon according to his L ps directions hee had written and sent a messenger of purpose to the Lord of Clantyer an Ilander Scot to stirre him vp against Iames Mac Surley wrongfully possessing his rightfull inheritance in those parts of Ireland offering to ioyne the Queenes forces vnder his commaund to those powers he should bring for recouerie of this his right so as he would after yeeld due tribute and obedience to her Maiesty but that vpon the King of Scots late Proclamation that al bearing Armes should be ready to attend the King on the 17 of Iuly next following in prosecution of the Ilander Scots as was giuen out refusing to pay tribute he feared that this Lord would bee diuerted from imbracing this busines howsoeuer aduantageous to him That he had receiued Con Mac Neale the son of Neale Mac Brian and his horsemen into her Maiesties pay and would shortly waste his fathers Country whence Brian Mac Art and some 400 Bonnaghtes or hired souldiers were maintained and fed Finally that he thought fit to rebuild Olderfleete and leaue some in Ward there because the Hauen was commodious to succour weather-beaten ships going to supplie the Garrison of Loughfoyle with necessaries The 26 of May the Lord Deputie receiued a letter from the Lords in England with full answere to his late dispatches For the Earle of Ormonds detension they signified her Maiesties griefe to be the greater because any attempt made for his recouerie was like to proue his ruine and that her Maiestie had written to the Countefse to send the Earles young daughter and heire into England For Sir Arthur Oneales demaunds vpon his comming in to serue her Maiesty in the first point concerning religion her Maiesty bare with it because she took it to proceede of his ignorance not of presumption only wishing the L. Dep to let him see that her Maiesty pursued none in those parts for religion and so to satisfie him but in no wise by any contract or condition Next for his andothers suits for land and for entertainements because such ouertures were like daily to be made by such as submitted themselues and protraction of sending to and fro might lose many opportunities First touching the sutes for land her Maiesties directions in particular cases following should be a rule to the Lord Deputie for his graunts of that kind And first for Sir Arthur Oneales demaunding Tyrones estate that could not be granted him by reason Tyrone vpon pretence of an old inquisition had extended the limits of his Countrie and incroched far into the South and East But her Maiesty was pleased to giue him Tyrones principall seates reseruing places for forts and lands to maintaine them and reseruing all dependancy of the Vriaghtes or neighbour Lords also reseruing lands in Tyrone to reward the seruices of such Gentlemen as should serue vnder Sir Arthur in these warres which they should onely hold of her Maiestie by letters Patents For the rest Sir Arthur Oneale to be chiefe in Tyrone as well in superioritie as in reuenue Touching Neale Garues demaunds for O Donnels estate her Maiesties pleasure was to reserue some Portes and Castles and some lands to reward the seruices of that Countries Gentlemen intending that these and more specially the Mac Swynes should depend onely vpon her Maiestie and haue right to those lands by her letters Patents Touching Mac Guires Country her Maiestie directed like reseruations of land for Fortes and rewards of seruices and generally in all grantes charged to reserue her Maiesties ancient rights Secondly touching suitors for entertainements in pay her Maiestes pleasure was signified to allow one thousand pound a moneth so long as the Lord Deputy and the Counsel there should thinke fit to be imployed that way according to the
did a thing ill can neuer doe it well But whereas many boast and haue the same to speake many tongues aswell as their mother tongue I doe not thinke but know that it is false The French haue a good Prouerbe Entre les auengles les borgnes sont les Roys Among the blinde the pore blind are the Kings And thus they which haue no skill in tongues will boldly say that this or that man doth perfectly and without stamering speake many tongs But howsoeuer a stranger liuing some six or more yeeres in any forraigne part may perhaps speake that tongue as perfectly as his own yet he that trauelleth in few yeeres through many Kingdoms and learnes many languages shall neuer speake all nor many of them with naturall pronuntiation and without errours and some stamering and slownesse in speech Yea he that learnes one tongue alone and that with many yeeres practice shall more hardly attaine the perfect properties and elegancies thereof then an vnskilfull man would thinke For Theophrastus hauing liued many yeeres at Athens was knowne to bee a stranger of an old woman selling herbes onely by the pronuntiation of one sillable For my owne particular I remember that I passed from Genoa to Milan on foote in a disguised habit and that in an Inne not farre from Pauia I met an Englishman Wee satdowne to supper where he voluntarily and vnasked did rashly professe himselfe to be a Dutchman whereupon I saluted him in Dutch familiarly till hee betraied manifestly his ignorance in that language and excused himselfe that he was no Dutchman but borne vpon the confines of France where they speake altogether French Then I likewise spake to him in French till he was out of countenance for his want of skill in that language So as my selfe being a man in his case dissembling my Country and quality ceased further to trouble him And wee after discoursing in the Italian tong he chanced to speake these words Io mi repentiua whereas an Italian would haue said Io mi ne pentiua And by this little difference of adding the sillable ne I knew him to be an Englishman for I had found before that he was no Frenchman which Nation together with the English addes that sillable Thus when supper was ended I tooke him aside and spoke English to him whereat hee reioyced and imbracing mee swore that he had been in the stable and commanded his man to make ready his horses and would presently haue rid away if I had not discouered my selfe to him And so wee lodged in one chamber and bed See how small a thing will make it manifest that we are not that Country men whereof we speake the language The knowledge of tongues hath euer been highly esteemed Aulus Gellius writes that Mithridates spake the languages of two and twenty Prouinces which were subiect to him so as he neuer spake with any subiect by an Interpreter Themistocles in one yeere got so much knowledge in the Persian tongue as hee was able to speake with Artaxerxes without an Interpreter Ennius said he had three hearts meaning three languages Claudius the Emperour put a Grecian Prince from being a Iudge because he could not speake Latine and sent him into Italy to learne the Tongue as Suetonius writes To conclude who hath not heard the worthy fame of that Heroicall Woman Elizabeth late Queene of England among whose rare vertues her skill in Languages was not the least being able to conferre with most Ambassadours or Princes in their owne tongue And whereas some Kings thinke it a base thing to speake in a strange tongue and take it for honour if they can induce any Ambassadour to speake their tongue they seeme to me like vnto those who being poore and proud speake much against rich apparrell and extoll stuffes and furnitures of small price that they may seeme to doe that of election and iudgement which they doe onely for want Yet I would not be so vnderstood as if I thought fit that one Ambassadour at a treaty should consent to haue the same written in the language of another Ambassadour but rather that it should be written in a third tongue equally knowne to them both as in the Italian Tongue the Treaty being betweene England and France But in the meane time I thinke it honourable to the most mighty King to be able to entertaine familiar speech with any Ambassadour or Prince of neighbour Kingdomes though lesse potent then his owne Let vs be incouraged by these noble foresaid examples to labour diligently that we may attaine this rich Iewell of speaking Tongues In the last place I aduise the Traueller that if he can haue leasure he ioyne for greater ornament the learning to write the hand of each Nation with the knowledge of each tongue especially of that which is most of vse in his Countrey 9 For Englishmen they shall doe well at their first setting forth to passe into Germany and there spend some time for since we vse too much the helpe of our seruants so as we will scarcely make our selues ready and since wee vse to despise the company of meane people at bed or board there wee may learne to serue our selues where hee that comes into a shoomakers shop must find out the shooes will fit him and put them on himselfe There we may learne to admit the company of meane men where many times poore fellowes yea very Coachmen shal be thrust to be our bedfellowes and that when they are drunke and like men will often sit by vs at the Table and in some places as most part of Low-Germany they drinke alwaies round so as wee shall be sure to pledge like men and drinke to them in the same cup and if wee haue a seruant of our owne would rather haue him sit next vs then any other There wee may learne to feed on homely meat and to lie in a poore bed There among many other things wee may learne to moderate our aptnesse to quarrell whereof I will speake more in the proper place To conclude all in gene all that passe Germany as strangers are free among that honest people from all colinages and deceipts to which in other parts they are subiect aboue others especially vnexperienced 10 As it is good before his setting forth to be reconciled with his enemies that they may practice no ill against him or his friends in his absence and that his mind may be more religiously composed against all euents so while he is abroad let him often write to his friends of his health which precept if Thesius had not forgotten hee had not beene Authour of his most deere Fathers death by bearing the false signe of a blacke sayle And this is no lesse good to himselfe then to his friends since he that writes often shall often receiue letters for answere for one hand washeth another and the Poet saieth well Vt ameris Amabilis esto Who wilt beloued be that thou bist louing see For indeed
low rate whereby the great trade and singular industry of the Inhabitants may be coniectured Adde that besides the German Sea lying vpon diuers of these Prouinces they haue many Armes of the Sea that runne farre within Land All the Riuers fall from Germany which in this lower soyle often ouerflowing haue changed their old beds and falling into ditches made by hand doe no more runne with their wonted force but as I haue said in the description of Holland doe end as it were in lakes By reason of the foresaid industry of the people inhabiting the vnited Prouinces the number of their ships and the commodity of their Seas and waters howsoeuer they want of their owne many things for necessity and delight yet there is no where greater abundance of all things neither could any Nation indowed with the greatest riches by nature haue so long borne as they haue done a ciuell warre and intollerable exactions and tributes much lesse could they by this mischiefe haue growne rich as this people hath done One thing not vsed in any other Countrey is here most common that while the Husbands snort idly at home the Weomen especially of Holland for trafficke sayle to Hamburg and manage most part of the businesse at home and in neighbour Cities In the shops they sell all they take all accompts and it is no teproch to the men to be neuer inquited after about these affaires who taking money of their wiues for daily expences gladly passe their time in idlenesse Touching this peoples diet Butter is the first and last dish at the Table whereof they make all sawces especially for fish and thereupon by strangers they are merrily called Butter-mouths They are much delighted with white meats and the Bawers drinke milke in stead of beere and as well Men as Weomen passing in boates from City to City for trade carry with them cheese and boxes of butter for their foode whereupon in like sort strangers call them Butter boxes and nothing is more ordinary then for Citizens of good accompt and wealth to sit at their dores euen dwelling in the market place holding in their hands and eating a great lumpe of bread and butter with a lunchen of cheese They vse to seeth little peeces of flesh in Pipkins with rootes and gobbets of fat mingled therewith without any cutiosity and this they often seeth againe setting it each meale of the weeke on the Table newly heated and with some addition of flesh rootes or fat morsels as they thinke needfull and this dish is vulgarly called Hutspot They feed much vpon rootes which the boyes of rich men deuoure raw with a morsell of bread as they runne playing in the streetes They vse most commonly fresh meates and seldome set any salt meates on the board except it beat Feasts to prouoke drinking They vse no spits to roast meat but bake them in an earthen pipkin as in an ouen and so likewise seeth them And these meates being cold they often heat and serue to the Table so as I haue come into an Inne and being in the Kitchen could see nothing ready for supper yet presently called to supper haue seene a long Table furnished with these often heated meats which smoaked on the outside yet were cold on the inside This people is prouerbially said to excell in baked meates especially in baking of Venison yet to my knowledge they haue no red Deare in these Prouinces neither haue they any inclosed Parkes for fallow Deare nor any Connygrees Onely Count Mauritz hath of late had out of England some Buckes and Does of fallow Deare which runne in the groue at the Hage and there be some Connies neere Leyden vpon the sandy banke of the Sea which are not sufficient to serue the Inhabitants of those parts but are accounted good and pleasant to eat Neither in forraigne parts doe they much desire to feed on Connies either because they are rare or because the flesh is not sauoury They vse to eate early in the morning euen before day and the cloth is laid foure times in the day for very seruants but two of these times they set before them nothing but cheese and butter They seeth all their meate in water falling of raine and kept in Cesternes They eate Mushromes and the binder parts of frogges for great dainties which frogges young men vse to catch and present them to their Mistresses for dainties I haue seene a hundreth of Oysters in diuers Cities sold sometimes for eight or twelue yea for twenty or thirty stiuers They dresse fresh water fish with butter more then enough and salted fishes sauourly with butter mustard where they eate not at an Ordinary but vpon reckoning as they doe in Villages and poorer Innes there they weigh the cheese when it is set on Table and taken away being paid by the waight and I haue knowne some waggish Souldiers who put a leaden bullet into the Cheese making it thereby weigh little lesse then at first sitting downe and so deceiuing their Hosts But in the chiefe Innes a man shall eate at an Ordinary and there Gentlemen and others of inferiour condition sit at the same Table and at the same rate The Innes are commodious enough and the Cities being frequent scarce some eight miles distant one from the other commodities of lodging are as frequent yea they hang out signes at the doore which fashion is not in vse in may Cities of Germany in Denmarke Poland Scotland and Ireland where the Innes are onely knowne by fame and this made me maruell that notwithstanding this signe obliging them to lodge strangers my selfe though well apparelled haue diuers times beene refused lodging in many of those Innes which seemed to me a scorne and flat iniury At the faire City of Leyden not wanting many faire Innes I was refused lodging in sixe of them and hardly got it in the seuenth which made me gather that they did not willingly entertaine Englishmen neither did I attribute this to their in hospital nature but to the licentiousnesse of our Souldiers who perhaps had deserued ill of them thereby or perhaps by ill payment for which I cannot blame the English in that case butrather the vnequall Law of England giuing all to the elder brothers lying sluggishly at home and thrusting the younger brothers into the warres and all desperate hazards and that in penury which forcibly driueth the most ingenious dispositions to doe vnfit things By reason of the huge impositions especially vpon wines the passengers expence is much increased for the exactions often equall or passe the value of the things for which they are paid And though a man drinke beere subiect to lesse imposition and lesse deere then wine yet he must vnderstand that his companions drinke largely and be he neuer so sober in diet yet his purse must pay a share for their intemperance After supper passengers vse to sit by the fier and passe some time in mirth drinking vpon the common charge and to
numbers of Silke-wormes especially at Tripoli and in most parts of Asia which make great quantitie of Silke as I formerly said in the discourse of Italy yet they sell this Silke raw and vnwonen and buy of the Venetians the foresaid clothes made of their owne silke so as the silkewormes may well be said to bee more diligent and more to promote the publike good then the inhabitants for they swarming in all Gardens diligentlie finish their web while the idle inhabitants yeeld the commoditie thereof to strangers The Venetians also export from Turkey Spices and Apothecary wares and great quantitie of the Dye called Indico They export Galles Cotten wooll Cotton threads Chamlets or Grograms made of the finest haires of Goates not sheared but pulled off from their backes and wouen in Galatia a Prouince of the lesser Asia They export Turkey Carpets Goates skinnes wrought and died into diuers colours The English bring to the Turkes Kersies wrought and dyed of diuers colours and kinds but they bring little Broad-cloth wherewith they are aboundantlie furnished from Venice They also bring to them Tinne and blacke Conni-skinnes in such quantitic as the Turkes admiring the same a Frenchman merily taxing our womens affabilitie said that in England there was such plenty of Connyes and they so tame as they were taken in the Tauerns The English export from them Spices and Apothecary wares for the Trade into the East Indies was not then set vp they also export the foresaid commodities raw silke Indico and other precious Dyes of Scarlet Purple and the like Galles Mastick growing onely in the Iland Zio Cotton and the thread thereof Turkey Carpets for tables Chamlets Grograms of Goates haire The Merchants comming to Constantinople hardly find there any commodities to export therefore the English ships hauing vnladed there saile empty to Alexandretta and there receiue the commodities of Haleppo Againe the Italians who bring much gold and siluer to Haleppo for the commodities there to bee sold doe againe receiue gold and siluer for such commodities as they bring to Constantinople and carry the same backe to Venice The English lying at the Ilands of Zant and Cephalonia subiect to the Venetians and at Petrasso seated in the Gulfe of Corinth and subiect to the great Turke export Corrands others from Algier a Port of Barbary export Sugar others from the Iland Candia subiect to the Venetians export Muskadines and others from diuers Ilands export earthen dishes and vessels painted which for the purenesse are much esteemed and vsed in Italy and in our parts Northward The swords of Damasco are famous for the mettall piercing iron and cutting a naile in pieces but the exportation of them is forbidden though out Christians supply the Turkes with all warlike munitions which they might shame to haue particularly named in this discourse of traffick The precious Orientall commodities of Persia and the East Indies haue made the Trade of Turkish Cities to bee famous namely their spices and rich dies and Iewels which notwithstanding the Turkes haue in part of their owne For I formerly said that Arabia yeelds Frankinsence Mirrh Cinnamon and Iewels and AEgypt yeeldes Balsam and Opobalsam the more precious gumme of the Balmetree in great quantity omitting many commodities which besides they haue of these kinds I speake not of Thessalonica a City of Macedonia now called Saloniche nor other Hauens and Cities of trafficke in Greece as being of lesse moment All the precious traffick of Turkey by reason of the inhabitants slothfulnesse is in the hands of lewes and of Christians and was long in the sole hands of the Venetians but the French in the age past and the English in our age haue had as I may say a traffickiug league with the Turkes and so partake that trade And these three States onely not to speake of the Germans who at this time had warre with the Turkes and neuer saile so farre to exercise trafficke among so many States of Christians haue their Ambassadours at the Turkish Court And if any other Christians arriue in that Empire as the Flemmings often doe they vsed at this time to come vnder the Banner of one of these three Nations The Reader must vnderstand that when I was in Turkey the English and Flemmings had not as yet begun their traffick in the East Indies which is like to destroy the trafficke in Turkey bringing many rich commodities from the well head For their dyet the Turkes liue sparingly I had said slouenly but that I remembred their frequent bathings and washings and the curious clenlinesse of the linnen and all other clothes which they weare but I will bee bold to say they feede negligently and without any pompe or magnificence The richer sort doe fit at meate like Tailors with their knees bended vpon carpets or vpon the grasse when they eate by Riuers sides and in Gardens as they doe more frequently then in the house And their table is so low as they may well reach to it sitting vpon the ground About this table they cast a long towell to wipe their hands but passengers by the high-way and generally the ordinary sort of Turkes vse grasse in stead of this towell Others carry about a table of leather coloured red or yellow which table shuts and opens like a purse and vpon it they can set but one dish at once it hanging hollow vpon certaine buckels Commonly they eate by the high-way vpon the ground and alwaies with their knees bended like our Taylors They seeth their meat till it be very tender so as they may breake it with theit fingers for they haue no kniues neither haue they variety of dishes set before them but all sitting in a circle fall vpon one dish Taking meat they all together say a short prayer or grace and talke not whilest they eate but silently fall hard to their worke They haue aboundance of all things for foode aswell of flesh excepting swines-flesh as of birds and other meates but they abstaine from fish They haue plenty of Corne at least sufficient for their temperate dyet which is exceeding good and farre bigger then ours They are ignorant of the Arts of birding fouling hunting or cookery and hauing no lasciuicus apetite prouoking them to gluttony are content with simple meates Their sobrietie in this kind cannot sufficiently be commended and since their greatest men can bee content to feede on rice and drinke water it is no maruell that with ease they keepe great Armies in the field All the Turkish housholdstuffe is contained in one poore pot to seeth meate in one spoone of wood one cup of leather or wood to drinke in a poore bed or matresse yea often a single couerled alone and the earth serues them for bedsteed table and stooles They haue no neede of a troope of cookes and scullions to dresse meate and make cleane dishes They willingly eate curds turned sower and mingled with bread and water commonly called Mishmish and fresh cheese or curds
betweene Roane and Diepe called Totes and in like sort in all the Innes of those parts before the ciuill warre assoone as passengers lighted from their horses the Hoast gaue them water to wash and bread and wine for the French haue not the patience to expect their supper without some refection Then at supper the table was serued with Mutton a Capon or Pullet Patridges and like meates with a kind of banquet as in Summer Apples Cherries and Grapes and in Winter Chessenuts Rice Raysons and stewed Prunes Then they gaue their guests cleane sheetes drying them at the fier in their presence and in the morning gaue them for breakfast some buttered tostes or motsell of meate and for all this together with horsemeate each man paid some twenty two or twenty fiue soulz as likewise the bating at noone for horse and man cost each some ten soulz After the ciuill warre I passed through these parts and commonly each meale paid twelue or fifteene soulz with worse interertainment and for breakefasts paid seuerally but no great rate Towards the confines of Flanders the Hoasts onely couer the table and a side table vpon which euerie passenger hath his glasse for the French are curious not to drinke in another mans cup and the Hoasts are onely to bee paid for this seruice Otherwise at times of eating they call the Cookes dwelling neere the Innes who bring the best meates they haue and when the guests haue chosen their meate and agreed for the price they carry it backe to dresse it and so send it warme with sawces In generall through the Cities of France passengers seldome dine at their Innes but with some companions goe to the Tauernes or Cookes shops but at night they must eate with the Hoast that giues them beds where they shall haue cleane sheetes and see them dried before their faces but they are of course cloth and very few chambers are priuate but most haue three or foure beds wherein they lye not single but for the most part with bedfellowes Also the guests as well Merchants and Gentlemen as those of common sort eate at an ordinary table and for supper commonly large with diuers roasted meates each man payes some fifteene soulz He that hiers a chamber in Cities which he may haue well furnished at Paris for some two Crownes a moneth he must buy his meate at Cookes shops which are frequent and very cleanly neither is it any disgrace as with vs to buy a morsell of meate there and to agree for the price before it bee eaten And they that hier chambers can haue no better conueniency for diet either at Paris or in other Cities But hee that stayes long in a Citie may agree in a Citizens house or an Inne for his diet and lodging by the yeere which hee may haue at Paris in extraordinary sort for some one hundred fifty Crownes yeerely and ordinarily for lesse and at Rone for one hundred twenty or one hundred Crownes and in many Cities for eighty Crownes and in many good Innes for sixty Crownes yeerely Drunkennesse is reprochfull among the French and the greater part drinke water mingled with wine and alwaies French wines not Sacke or Spanish wines which are sold as Phisicke onely by Apothecaries or other forraigne Wines whereof I remember not to haue seene any in the Northerne parts of France Yet Marriners Souldiers and many of the common sort vsed to drinke Perry and Syder to very drunkennes yea I haue seene many drink wine with like intemperance and when these kinds of men sit at drinking they vse much mirth and singing in which art they take great delight as the French in generall are by nature chearefull and liuely Women for the most part and virgins alwaies except by stealth they offend against the custome vse to drinke water except it be in the Prouinces yeelding Perry and Syder which all sorts vse to drinke without exception And at Paris I remember to haue seene a poore woman to beg a cup of water which being giuen her she drunke it off and went away merily as if she had receiued a good almes CHAP. III. Of England touching the particular subiects of the first Chapter THE Longitude of England extends nine degrees and a halfe from the meridian of thirteene degrees and a halfe to that of twenty three degrees and the latitude extends fixe degrees from the paralell of fifty degrees and a halfe to that of fifty sixe degrees and a halfe Learned Camden whom I gladly follow in this description of England makes the circuite of all Britany to be one thousand eight hundred thirty six miles This is the most famous Iland of all the World and is diuided into two Kingdomes that of England and that of Scotland England is subeuided into diuers Counties or Shyres and Ilands 1 In the description whereof I will first begin with Cornmall of old inhabited by the Danmonij It is for the most part a Mountanous Country but the soyle is not vnfirtile besides that the people incredibly fatten the same with laying vpon it the owes of the Sea called Orwood and a certaine mud The Sea coast as Camden writeth whom I follow is beautified with very many Townes which haue much shipping The inward parts abound with a rich vaine of Mettals where wonderfull quantitie of most pure Tinne is digged vp and not onely Tinne but Gold and Siluer with it and Dyamonds formed into Angles by nature it selfe which we call Cornish Dyamonds Eringo grows plentifully all along the Sea side and with great labour of the Husbandman they haue such aboundance of Corne as great quantity of wheate is yeerely exported thence into Spaine Also the inhabitants make great gaine by the fishing of Pilchards which they salt and drie in the smoke and export an huge multitude of them yeerely into Spaine and Italy Here is the famous Mount Michael of old called Dinsol and by the inhabitants the Rock Cana. This Rocke is somewhat high and craggy vpon the top whereof is a Chappell dedicated to Michael the Arch-Angell The Towne Falemouth hath a faire Hauen capeable of very many shippes and most safe from stormes where the Rockes doe fortifie two Castles built by Henry the eight and this Hauen is by Ptolomy called Ostium Cenionis 2 Deuonshire likewise inhabited by the Danmonij hath fairer Hauens being no lesse rich in the vaines of Tinne and beautified with frequent Townes In no part of England the ground requireth more expence for in many places it is barren till it bee fatted with the Owes or sand of the Sea which makes it wonderfully fruitfull but in the remotest parts from the Sea this sand is dearely bought The Riuer Plimus giues the name to the Towne Plimmouth of old called Sutton which grew from a fishers Village to a faire Towne by the commoditie of the Hauen being most safe euen for great ships as well in the said Riuer as in another called Tamera Not farre from thence is the
Grauesend is a knowne Roade The City Rochester is the seate of a Bishop and hath a stately Cathedrall Church Canterbery is a very ancient City the seate of an Archbishop who in the Hierarchy of the Roman Bishop was stiled the Popes Legate but the Popes authority being banished out of England it was decreed in a Synod held the yeere 1534 that the Archbishops laying aside that title should be called the Primates and Metrapolitanes of all England Before the Rode of Margat lie the dangerous shelfes or flats of sand whereof the greatest is called Goodwin sand Douer is a Port of old very commodious but now lesse safe onely it is more famous for the short cut to Callis in France The Towne Rumney one of the fiue Portes in our Grand-fathers time lay close vpon the Sea but now is almost two miles distant from the same 11 Glocestershire was of old inhabited by the Dobuni William of Malmesbury writes that this County is so fertile in Corne and fruites as in some places it yeelds a hundreth measures of graine for one sowed but Camden affirmes this to bee false The same Writer affirmes that the very high waies are full of Appell trees not planted but growing by the nature of the soyle and that the fruits so growing are better then others planted both in beauty taste and lasting being to be kept a whole yeere from rotting He adds that it yeelded in his time plenty of Vines abounding with Grapes of a pleasant taste so as the wines made thereof were not sharpe but almost as pleasant as the Fench wines which Camden thinkes probable there being many places still called Vineyards and attributes it rather to the Inhabitants slothfulnesse then to the fault of the Ayre or soyle that it yeeldes not wine at this day Tewkesbury is a large and faire Towne hauing three Bridges ouer three Riuers and being famous for making of woollen cloth for excellent mustard and a faire Monastery in which the Earles of Glocester haue their Sepulchers The City of Glocester is the cheefe of the County through which the Seuerne runnes and here are the famous Hils of Cotswold vpon which great flockes of sheepe doe feede yeelding most white wooll much esteemed of all Nations Circester is an ancient City the largenesse whereof in old time appeares by the ruines of the wals The Riuer Onse springeth in this County which after yeeldes the name to the famous Riuer Thames falling into it 12 Oxfordshire also was inhabited by the Dobuni a fertile County the plaines whereof are bewtified with meadowes and groues the hils with woods and not onely it abounds with corne but with all manner of cattle and game for hunting and hawking and with many Riuers full of fish Woodstocke Towne is famous for the Kings House and large Parke compassed with a stone wall which is said to haue been the first Parke in England but our Progenitors were so delighted with hunting as the Parkes are now growne infinite in number and are thought to containe more fallow Deere then all the Christian World besides Histories affirme that Henry the second for his Mistris Rosamond of the Cliffords house did build in his house here a labyrinth vnpassable by any without a threed to guide them but no ruines thereof now remaine The Towne itselfe hath nothing to boast but that Ieffry Chancer the English Homer was borne there Godstowe of old a Nunnery is not farre distant where Rosamond was buried Oxford is a famous Vniuersity giuing the name to the County and was so called of the Foorde for Oxen or of the Foorde and the Riuer Onse 13 Buckinghamshire was of old inhabited by the Cattienchiani which Camden thinks to be the Cassei and it hath a large and pleasant towne called Ailsbury which giues the name to the Valley adioyning The city Buckingham is the chiefe of the County and the Towne of Stonystratford is well knowne for the faire Innes and stately Bridge of stone 14 Bedfordshire had the same old inhabitants and hath the name of Bedford the chiefe Towne 15 Hertfordshire had the same old inhabitants and the chiefe Towne is Hertford In this County is the stately house Thibaulds for building Gardens and Walks Saint Albons is a pleasant Towne full of faire Innes 16 Midlesex County was of old inhabited by the Trinobants called Mercij in the time of the Saxon Kings In this County is the Kings stately pallace Hamptencourt hauing many Courtyards compassed with sumptuous buildings London the seate of the Brittans Empire and the Chamber of the Kings of England is so famous as it needes not bee praysed It hath Colledges for the studie of the municiple Lawes wherein liue many young Gentlemen Students of the same The little citie Westminster of old more then a mile distant is now by faire buildings ioyned to London and is famous for the Church wherein the Kings and Nobles haue stately Sepulchers and for the Courts of Iustice at Westminster Hall where the Parliaments are extraordinarily held and ordinarily the Chancerie Kings Bench with like Courts Also it hath the Kings stately Pallace called Whitehall to which is ioyned the Parke and house of Saint Iames. The Citie of London hath the sumptuous Church of Saint Paul beautified with rich Sepulchers and the Burse or Exchange a stately house built for the meeting of Merchants a very sumptuous and wonderfull Bridge built ouer the Thames rich shops of Gold-smiths in Cheapeside and innumerable statelie Pallaces whereof great part lye scattered in vnfrequented lanes 17 Essex County had of old the same inhabitants and it is a large Teritorie yeelding much Corne and Saffron enriched by the Ocean and with pleasant Riuers for fishing with Groues and many other pleasures It hath a large Forrest for hunting called Waltham Forrest Chensford is a large and faire Towne neere which is New-Hall the stately Pallace of the Rateliffes Earles of Sussex Colchester is a faire City pleasantly seated well inhabited and beautified with fifteene Churches which greatly flourished in the time of the Romans Harewich is a safe Hauen for ships Saffron Walden is a faire Towne the fields whereof yeeld plenty of Saffron whereof it hath part of the name 18 The County of Suffolke was of old inhabited by the Iceni and it is large the soile fertile pleasant in groues and rich in pastures to fat Cattle where great quantity of Cheese is made and thence exported Saint Edmondsberry vulgarly called Berry is a faire Towne and so is Ipswich hauing stately built Churches and houses and a commodious Hauen 19 The County of Norfolke had of old the same Inhabitants and it is a large almost all Champion Countrey very rich and abounding with sheepe and especially with Conies fruitfull and most populous The City Norwich chiefe of the County deserues to be numbered among the chiefe Cities of England for the riches populousnesse beauty of the Houses and the faire building of the Churches Yarmouth is a most faire Towne fortified
worke in the Mines of mettall The ayre of England is temperate but thicke cloudy and misty and Caesar witnesseth that the cold is not so piercing in England as in France For the Sunne draweth vp the vapours of the Sea which compasseth the Iland and distills them vpon the earth in frequent showers of raine so that frosts are somewhat rare and howsoeuer Snow may often fall in the Winter time yet in the Southerne parts especially it seldome lies long on the ground Also the coole blasts of Sea winds mittigate the heat of Summer By reason of this temper Lawrell and Rosemary flourish all Winter especially in the Southerne parts and in Summer time England yeelds Abricots plentifully Muske melons in good quantity and Figges in some places all which ripen well and happily imitate the taste and goodnesse of the same fruites in Italy And by the same reason all beasts bring forth their young in the open fields euen in the time of Winter and England hath such aboundance of Apples Peares Cherries and Plummes such variety of them and so good in all respects as no countrie yeelds more or better for which the Italians would gladly exchange their Citrons and Oranges But vpon the Sea coast the winds many times blast the fraites in the very flower The English are so naturally inclined to pleasure as there is no Countrie wherein the Gentlemen and Lords haue so many and large Parkes onely reserued for the pleasure of hunting or where all sorts of men alot so much ground about their houses for pleasure of Gardens and Orchards The very Grapes especially towards the South and Westare of a pleasant taste and I haue said that in some Countries as in Glostershire they made Wine of old which no doubt many parts would yeeld at this day but that the inhabitants forbeare to plant Vines aswell because they are serued plentifully and at a good rate with French wines as for that the hilles most fit to beare Grapes yeeld more commoditie by feeding of Sheepe and Cattell Caesar writes in his Commentaries that Britany yeelds white Leade within land and Iron vpon the Sea-coasts No doubt England hath vnexhaustible vaines of both and also of Tinne and yeelds great quantitie of Brasse and of Allom and Iron and abounds with quarries of Free-stone and Fountaines of most pure Salt and I formerly said that it yeelds some quantity of Siluer and that the Tinne and Leade is mingled with Siluer but so as it doth not largely quit the cost of the labour in seperating or trying it Two Cities yeeld medicinall Baths namely Buxstone and Bathe and the waters of Bathe especially haue great vertue in many diseases England abounds with Sea-coales vpon the Sea-coast and with Pit coales within land But the Woods at this day are rather frequent and pleasant then vast being exhausted for fier and with Iron-milles so as the quantity of wood and charcoale for fier is much deminished in respect of the old abundance and in some places as in the Fennes they burne Turffe and the very dung of Cowes Yet in the meane time England exports great quantity of Seacoale to forraine parts In like sort England hath infinite quantity as of Mettalls so of Wooll and of VVoollen cloathes to be exported The English Beere is famous in Netherland and lower Germany which is made of Barley and Hops for England yeelds plenty of Hops howsoeuer they also vse Flemish Hops The Cities of lower Germany vpon the sea forbid the publike selling of English Beere to satisfie their owne brewers yet priuately swallow it like Nectar But in Netherland great and incredible quantity thereof is spent England abounds with corne which they may transport when a quarter in some places containing sixe in others eight bushels is sold for twenty shillings or vnder and this corne not onely serues England but also serued the English Army in the ciuil warres of Ireland at which time they also exported great quantity thereof into forraigne parts and by Gods mercy England scarce once in ten yeeres needes supply of forraigne Corne which want commonly proceeds of the couetousnesse of priuate men exporting or hiding it Yet I must confesse that daily this plenty of Corne decreaseth by reason that priuate men finding greater commoditie in feeding of Sheepe and Cattell then in the Plough requiring the hands of many seruants can by no Law be restrained from turning corne fields into inclosed Pastures especially since great men are the first to breake these Lawes England abounds with all kinds of foule aswell of the Sea as of the land and hath more tame Swannes swimming in the Riuers then I did see in any other part It hath multitudes of hurtfull birds as Crowes Rauens and Kytes and they labor not to destroy the Crowes consuming great quantity of Corne because they feede on wormes and other things hurting the Corne. And in great Cities it is forbidden to kill Kytes or Rauens because they deuoure the filth of the streetes England hath very great plenty of Sea and Riuer fish especiallie aboue all other parts abundance of Oysters Makrell and Herrings and the English are very industrous in fishing though nothing comparable to the Flemmings therein The English export into Italy great quantity of red Herrings with gaine of two or three for one not to speake in this place of other commodities which they export with great gaine and in this fishing they are very industrious as well in the Sea vpon the coasts as in the Northerne Ilands To conclude they export in great quantity all kinds of salted fishes and those dried in the smoke and pickled as Pilchards Poore Iohn Cauiale Botargo and the like which they sell in Italy and those parts at a deare rate England abounds with pulse of all kinds and yeelds great quantitie of Saffron and of Flax wherof they haue also great quantitie frō Dantzke whence also they haue like plentie of Pitch and of Firre trees for Masts of ships which two things if England wanted not I durst say that this Iland or part of an Iland abounds with all things necessary for honest clothing large and dainty feeding and for warre by land and sea As for warre it hath not onely the aforesaid mettalls but also great quantity of Salt-peter Besides the famous Broad cloth it yeelds for clothing many Stuffes whereof great quantitie is also exported And I will not omit that howsoeuer it hath silke from forraigne parts yet the English silke stockings are much to bee preferred before those of Italy Spaine or any part in the World England abounds in Cattell of all kinds and particularly hath very great Oxen the flesh whereof is so tender as no meate is more desired The Cowes are also great with large vdders yeelding plenty of Whitmeates no part in the World yeelding greater variety nor better of that kind And the hides of Oxen are contrary to the common good exported in great quantity by vniustifiable licenses though
Then they take a pot of earth and sprinckle some bay salt in the bottome and lay these buds seuerally not very close one to the other in two rowes one aboue the other which done they sprinckle the same and wet all the buds with two little glasses of Rhenish Wine and againe sprinckle them with bay salt in greater quantity yet such as it may not eate the leaues In like sort they put vp each two rowes of buds till the pot be full which they couer with wood or leade so as no aire can enter and then lay it vp in a cold cellar where no sunne comes When they take out the buds they dip them in luke warme water or put them into the Ouen when the bread is taken out which makes the leaues open with the turning of the buds betweene two fingers then they dip a feather in rhenish wine and wipe the leaues there with to refresh the colour and some doe the like with rose water to renew the smell Giue me leaue by the way to relate though out of due course that I obserued women at Leipzig in like sort to keepe Cherries all Winter after this manner They inclose some Cherries in a glasse so as no aire can enter and then fasten the glasse to some low shrub or bough of a tree so as the glasse may hang in a brooke running gently Now I returne to my former discourse Many of the said Virgines haue their neck-bands set with spangles such as some children with vs weare The married women weare their gownes close about the breast and neck with a very short ruffe about their neckes such as men also weare set with poking stickes as small as reedes and they weare little hats vpon their heads The Virgines in generall weare linnen sleeues about their armes as close as they can be made for they esteeme it the greatest grace to haue the smallest armes and their petticoates are guarded with some ten or more fringes or laces of silke or veluet each fringe being of a different colour one from the other making the skirts thereof as variable in colour as the Raine-bow Citizens wiues put off their ruffes when they goe out of the house couering their neckes and mouths with a linnen cloth for feare of cold And they weare great heauy purses by their sides with great bunches of keyes hanging by chaines of brasse or siluer and all generally aswell married women as Virgins goe with bare legges and I haue seene a Virgine in Saxony refuse a paire of silke stockings offered her of guift and the maide seruants and married women of the inferiour sort weare no shooes except they goe out of the house and great part goe also abroade bare footed The married women hide their naked feete with long gownes but the maide seruants wearing short gownes and girding them vp into a roule some handfull vnder the wast about their hippes especially in the lower parts of Germany many times offend chast eyes with shewing their nakednesse especially when they stoope for any thing to the ground And in those parts of Germany the Citizens wiues like our little children weare red and yellow shooes and guilded at the toes In generall it is disgracefull to married women or Virgins excepting at Augsburg and some few other Cities to goe out of doores without a cloake which commonly is of some light stuffe as Grogram or the like faced with some furres and at Hidelberg they neuer goe abroade without a little basket in their hands as if they went to buy something except they will be reputed dishonest The married Women alwaies haue their heads couered in some Cities with a peece of veluet other where with little caps of veluet silke or felt or with some like fashion according to the vse of the Countrey And very many weare such crosse-clothes or forehead clothes as our Women vse when they are sicke In many places the ordinary Citizens Wiues haue their gownes made with long traines which are pinned vp in the house and borne vp by maide seruants when they goe abroade which fashion of old onely great Noblemen vsed with vs And in many Cities aswel the married as vnmarried Women weare long fardingales hanging about their feete like hoopes which our Women vsed of olde but haue now changed to short fardingals about their hippes The Bohemians are apparrelled much like the Germans and delight in greene yellow and light colours but more frequently weare silkes and veluets then the Germans and also false Iewels of their owne And many times they weare blacke cloth with many laces or fringes of light colours each fringe differing in colour one from the other And in respect of forraigne Ambassadours comming from all parts to Prage and of Italian Merchants frequenting there the Bohemians are more infected with forraigne fashions then the Germans The married Gentlwomen attire their heads like our Virgins and in like sort beare vp their haire on the forehead with a wier They vse with the Germans to make their gownes with traines or to beare them out with long fardingals and to weare short cloakes Citizens wiues weare vpon their heads large gray caps rugged like gray Connie skinnes and formed like the hiues of Bees or little caps of veluet close to the head of a dunne colour with the hinder skirt or hinder part cut off and open And vpon their legges they weare white buskins wrought with veluet at the toes but vpon their armes they weare large sleeues and contrary to the Germans thinke them to be most comely The Sweitzers being Citizens for their nobility is long sincerooted out by popular seditions weare large round caps such as are vsed by our Prentices and Students in the Innes of Court and together with them they weare cloakes whereas with vs they are onely vsed with gownes yea and Swords also which seemed strange to be worne with caps They weare great large puffed breeches gathered close aboue the knees and each puffe made of a diuers light colour but their doublets are made close to the body The married Women couer their heads with a linnen coyfe and vpon it weare such caps as the men vse which are broader then we vsed in England and commonly weare a linnen crossecloth vpon the forehead To be briefe the Virgins goe bare headed with their baire wouen vp and vse short cloakes and aswell married as vnmarried Women as also the Men are apparrelled like the Germans and affect nothing lesse then pride in their attire In the vnited Prouinces the Inhabitants being for the most part Merchants and Citizens the Men vse modest attire of graue colours and little beautified with lace or other ornament They weare short cloakes of English cloth with one small lace to couer the seames and a narrow facing of silke or veluet Their doublets are made close to the body their breeches large and fastened vnder the knees commonly of woollen cloth or else of fome light stuffe or of