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A51007 A new voyage to Italy with a description of the chief towns, churches, tombs, libraries, palaces, statues, and antiquities of that country : together with useful instructions for those who shall travel thither / by Maximilian Mission ; done into English and adorned with figures.; Nouveau voyage d'Italie. English Misson, Maximilien, 1650?-1722. 1695 (1695) Wing M2253; ESTC R28829 405,658 759

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careful to shut the Gates of the City early at Nights which Custom was troublesome to Strangers as well as to themselves Wherefore they invented a kind of secret Gate by which there was Passage to come in without fear of surprize or other danger This Gate remains still with all its Locks and Machines and is a thing very singular I have drawn a design of it which I could shew you but the description would at present be too difficult and tedious The Trade of Ausbourg decay'd as that of Holland increas'd Almost all Merchandizes which come from the Mediterranean were formerly Landed at Venice and from thence brought to Ausbourg from which place they were dispers'd through all Germany But Holland hath taken away all and distributes all And Ausbourg suffers as well as Venice Milan Antwerp and an infinite number of other Cities which are at present as Poor as they were formerly Rich. Three Years after Gustavus the Great had made himself Master of Ausbourg it was retaken by the Duke of Bavaria who took away all the Churches from the Lutherans in which case they remained from the Year Thirty five till Forty eight at which time all things were restor'd by the Peace of Munster During which interval the Lutherans had no liberty to assemble but in a College from the Window of which they Preached to the People in the Court-yard This College is still in their Possession and I have seen a long Inscription which is Graved under the Window and begins thus Praeclusis omnibus Evangelicorum templis coelum tamen ipsis patuit c. All the Churches of the Professors of the Gospel being shut Heaven was yet open to them c. You may see in the Bishop's Palace the Chamber where the famous Confession of Ausbourg was * In the Year 1540. by Melancthon and Luther Melancthon drew it up presented to the Emperour Charles V. From thence we went to the Cathedral where there is a Gate of Brass over which many places of the Sacred History are represented in basso relievo and they made us observe in the History of the Creation that it was the Virgin Mary who created Eve and form'd her out of one of Adam's Ribbs They are no less ingenious at Ausbourg than at Nuremberg and even they excel particularly in Clock and Goldsmiths-work and in works in Ivory We saw several Clocks which were valued at fifteen or twenty thousand Crowns they are plac'd in cases that are very richly wrought And besides what relates to the motion of the Stars and the Division of the Times and Seasons they adorn them with many other things which would be both pleasant and profitable were they a little more lasting Their way of turning in Ivory is very curious and deserves to be taken notice of with admiration But one of the rarest Works which I saw here I shall give you an account of They are Glasses made hollow and well shaped with a Ring made of the same piece in turning which plays between the bottom and the bowl of the Glass without possibility of taking off There are an hundred with their Rings in a grain of Pepper of an ordinary size These Glasses are in my hands I often examined this little Miracle of Art and observed the stripes and traces of the Tool with which they are turned so that I found no secret in it but that it was the pure work of the Eyes and the Hand They have here another very pleasant Bauble which are Fleas fastned by the Neck with Chains of Steel This Chain is so fine that though it be near a Span long the Flea will lift it up when it leaps The Animal Chain and all is sold for Ten Pence The variety of Habits and difference of their Colours is yet greater here than at Nuremberg This is an Affair regulated by the Policy of the Magistrates and you may know the Quality and Religion of the greatest part of the People by the difference of their Cloaths I will only represent to you the manner after which the Widow of a Roman Catholick Merchant wears Mourning for her Husband She hath a Christning Kercher well whited and starched with Wings and Cornets ordinary for this Dress a black Petticoat and a black Cloak made like that of a Man which comes to her Knees A great white Veil behind which hangs at the tail of the Kercher down to her Heels enlarging it self by degrees a piece of the same Linnen with the Kercher four foot long and at least two broad which is very much starched and stretched on a square of Wire-thred fastned by the middle of one of its ends just below the Lips and covers all the fore part of the Body Habits of the Women at Ausburgh Vol. 1. P. 86. A Country Wife A Pesant A Tradesman's Wife in mourning A Burgher's Daughter A Burghers Wife in mourning A Doctors Wife A Woman in mourning I am SIR Yours c. At Ausbourg Dec. 2. 1687. LETTER XI SIR I Observed at my going out of Ausbourg in many Gardens that they cover all their Vines and Fig-Trees carefully with Straw or Mats to preserve them from the Frost the Cold being sharper in this Country than in England where we are not obliged to make use of these Precautions though we lie nearer the North. It is certainly true that the divers degrees of Heat and Cold are not always proportion'd to the diversity of Climates There are terrible Winters in Canada in the midst of the temperate Zone whilst every where else under the same Climate they enjoy a sweet and pleasant Air. MUNICH The Country is level enough between Ausbourg and Munich but it is not very good it is every where a mixture of Wood and Fields and Firr-Trees Munich is not above half so big as Ausbourg It is a fine City but ill fortified and has no Trade and without doubt little notice would be taken of this place if the Elector's Residence were not there and if that Prince's Palace were not extraordinarily Magnificent Almost all the Houses of the City are painted on the out-side but instead of Painting in Fresco or in Oyl they make use of a kind of bad Plaister which is liable to all the Injuries of the Weather It wears off quickly and rises hollow in many places which maims all the Figures and renders them very ugly We had heard some Persons boast so much of the Jesuits Library that it was the first thing we would see when we came to Munich but it did not answer our Expectations For besides that it is neither very good nor well conditioned they ordered a Brother Cut-Cabbage who knew better what belong'd to the Kitchin than to Books to shew it us I confess I could not believe such gross Ignorance could lurk under the Habit of one who call'd himself a Jesuite It was absolutely impossible for us to make him understand what those Authors were whom we called the Fathers He presently named
thing that it does is wonderful in the highest degree 'T is the principal Object of the Devotion of these People and they stamp it on their Coyn with the Arms of the Republic You may easily imagin that this Crucifix met with a very kind reception at the Cathedral The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Martin yet 't is hard to divine the Reason why it preferr'd St. Martin to St. Fredian since 't is certain that this City was much more oblig'd to the latter than to the former The number of the Favours and good Offices it receiv'd from him is almost infinite but his saving it from the Inundation of the Cerchio deserves to be particularly remember'd One day when St. Fredian was at Lucca The River is at present two or three miles distant from Lucca the River began to swell prodigiously and threatned the City with a dreadful Inundation but the holy Man commanded it immediately to change its course and to follow him without murmuring whithersoever he should conduct it and his Orders were instantly obey'd to the great Joy and Astonishment of all the People In the same Saints Church there is a Marble Table seventeen foot long about six and a half broad and fourteen inches thick the Story of which is contain'd in the following Inscription O quisquis legis lapis es ni lapis hic te moveat in admirationem culium D. Frediani qui templo huic construendo molem hanc in montibus ad quartum lapidem nactus viribus impar sed spiritu fervens mirâ facilitate manibus humerisque suis Canonicorum in plaustrum binis indomitis vacculis trahendum impositum sexto salutis saeculo hac in Aede statuit sacrum Monumentum In the middle of the same Church we took notice of a Tomb-stone with these words inscrib'd upon it Hic jacet corpus Sancti Riccardi Regis Angliae Here lyes the Body of St. Richard King of England I cannot imagine who this Royal Saint should be * Sirnam'd Coeur de Lion Richard I. if my Memory does not deceive me dy'd in France of a Wound after his return from his Voyage beyond Sea and was interr'd in the Abbey of Fontevraut Richard II. was dethron'd by the Parliament and the Duke of Lancaster and afterwards stabb'd at Pomfret from whence his Body was carried first to St. Paul's then to Langley and at last to Westminster where his Tomb still remains And Richard III who was no more a Saint than his two Predecessors of the same Name but rather a very wicked man was slain at Bosworth in Leicestershire and buried in the City of Leicester Besides I do not remember that ever there was a King Richard in England before the reunion of the Heptarchy So that this Epitaph puzzl'd us all However I will not at present entertain you with our Conjectures concerning it but you will do us a singular pleasure by communicating yours to us I cannot forbear relating to you the Story of our Lady of St. Austin's for perhaps you never heard of a more pleasant Trick play'd by an Image A certain Souldier having lost considerably at Dice fell into a rage and at last laid the blame of his ill Fortune on our Lady who was then plac'd against the Wall of the Court of Guard and after he had call'd her a thousand hard Names to crown his Insolency he threw a Stone at her which was levell'd directly against the Head of the little Jesus But our Lady says the Story perceiving the danger prevented the blow by tossing her Child so nimbly from her right Arm to her left that he receiv'd not the least hurt To preserve the Memory of this Event the little Jesus stuck so close to his Mother's left Arm that she could not with all her strength bring him to his former place so that she was e'en forc'd to let him have his Humour and he remains upon her left Arm to this very day which is look'd upon as an undeniable Argument of the Truth of the Story by the devout Pilgrims who come to visit this Image To make an end of the Story the Earth open'd on a sudden and swallow'd up the impious Soldier The Hole is still there and these charitable Devotees are very careful to admonish the curious Stranger not to come near it because it is in their Opinion the very Mouth of Hell but certainly such a dangerous place ought to be rail'd in You are not ignorant that several noble * Calendrini Burlamachi Turretini Micheli and some others Families of Lucca retir'd to Geneva about the time of the Reformation The Country between Lucca and Florence is fertile and well cultivated PISTOYA Pistoya is in the middle twenty miles distant from each of ' em This is a very poor and desolate City especially since it lost its liberty for tho' it can make a shift to live on the fat of the Land it can never grow rich without Trade of which it is wholly destitute It is bigger than Lucca its Streets are large and streight and the Remainders of its ancient Beauty are sufficient to convince us that it was formerly a fine City The Inhabitants of Pistoya have a particular veneration for St. James because they were formerly assisted by him and have still a great number of his Relics He has a Chapel in the Cathedral The Altar is cover'd with Plates of Silver and surrounded with Lamps of great value Citta Pistoyese chiare case oscure Chiese The City of Pistoya has light Houses and dark Churches where I observ'd a Prayer directed to him in which he is call'd the First or Chief of the Apostles Tu qui primatum tenes inter Apostolos imo qui eorum primus c. Some think the Factions of the Guelphs and Gibelins were so call'd from Guelph and Gibel two Brothers and Gentlemen of Pistoya of whom the elder espous'd the Quarrel of Pope Gregory the Ninth while the second asserted the Interest of the Emperor Barbarossa But I should rather embrace the Opinion of those who derive the Names of those Factions from the illustrious and potent † About the Confines of Italy and Germany on the Upper Rhine See Maimb of the Decadence of the Empire l. 5. Families of the Guelphs and Gibellins who were at enmity with one another long before their Jealousies and Animosity were rais'd to the utmost heighth by their declaring one for the Emperor and t'other for the Pope The above-mention'd Etymology of St. Katherine will I 'm afraid appear so ridiculous to you that you will perhaps be tempted to susp●ct I invented it but I assure you I took it from the famous Golden Legend and both to clear my self of such a suspicion and to divert you after so long a Letter I shall subjoin some other Etymologies of the same stamp which I read not long ago and remember pretty exactly To begin with St. Christina my Author tells you That her Name