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A49620 The voyage of Italy, or, A compleat journey through Italy in two parts : with the characters of the people, and the description of the chief towns, churches, monasteries, tombs, libraries, pallaces, villas, gardens, pictures, statues, and antiquities : as also of the interest, government, riches, force, &c. of all the princes : with instructions concerning travel / by Richard Lassels, Gent. who travelled through Italy five times as tutor to several of the English nobility and gentry ; never before extant. Lassels, Richard, 1603?-1668.; S. W. (Simon Wilson) 1670 (1670) Wing L465; ESTC R2418 265,097 737

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nature but gracefull allso by art in his garbes and behauiour a good scholler but no meere scholler a man that hath traueled much in forrain countryes but yet no fickleheaded man a man of a stout spirit but yet of a discreet tongue and who knowes rather to waue quarrels prudently then to maintain them stoutly a man cheerfull in conuersation yet fearfull to offend others a man of that prudence as to teach his pupil rather to be wise then witty and of that example of life that his deeds may make his pupil beleeue his words in fine I would haue him to be an Englishman no stranger I speak not this out of an enuy to strangers but out of a loue to my owne countrymen For J haue knowne diuers English gentlemen much wrongd abroad by their Gouernours that were Strangers Some I haue knowne that led their pupils to Geneua where they got some French language but lost all their true English allegiance and respect to Monarchy others I haue knowne who being marryed and haueing their setlements and interest lyeing at Saumur kept yong gentlemen there all the time they were abroad and made their parents in England beleeue that all good breeding was in that poore towne where their wife 's were breeding children Others I haue knowne who hauing their mistresses in the country perswaded their yong pupils men of great birth that it was fine liuing in a country house that is fine carrying a gunn vpon their necks and walking a foot Others haue been obserued to sell their pupils to Masters of exercises and to haue made them beleeue that the worst Academyes were the best because they were the best to the cunning Gouernour who had tenn pound a man for euery one he could draw thither Others I haue knowne who would haue marryed their pupils in France without their Parents knowledge and haue sacrificed their great trust to their sordid auarice Others J haue knowne who haue locked their pupils in a chamber with a wanton woman and taken the Key away with them Nay this I can say more that of all those strangers that I haue knowne Gouernours to yong Nobleman of England and I haue knowne seuen or eight I neuer Knew one of them to be a gentleman borne but for the most part they were needy bold men whose cheif parts were their owne language and some Latin and whose cheif ayme was to serue themselues not their pupils But to returne againe to our subject the Parent hauing found out such a Gouernour for his sonn as we haue described here aboue he must resigne ouer vnto him his full Authority and command his sonn to obey him otherwise let the Gouernour be the wisest and the most compleat man in the world if his pupil do not obey him and follow his counsel all will go wrong I haue seen great disorders befall for want of this Hence I haue often thought of great Clemens Alexandrinus who sayth wisely that our Sauiour Christ is the onely true Pedagogue or Gouernour because he can not onely giue the best instructions to yong men but also can giue them grace to execute those instructions whereas other Gouernours Cassandra like telling their pupils many excellent truths are not beleeued by them nor can they force their inclinations to execute them except the Parents commands come in to their assistance and it is but reasonable that as Gouernours are the Seconds of Parents in the breeding of their children so Parents should second Gouernours too in makeing their children obey them And so much for the Parents care For the son̄s care it must bee this First to take a view of England before he enter into forrain countryes This will enure him to trauel to see company to obserue townes and rarityes and sharpen his appetite for forrain curiosi●yes I would wish him withall in traueling ouer England to fall in as often as he can with the Iudges in their circuits not onely to see how his country is gouerned in point of judicature but allso to see the gentry of seueral countryes who flock to great townes in the assise week It would be allso profitable to him to cast to be at all the cheif Horsraces where he will easily see allso the gentry of the seuerall counties in a compendious view Haueing thus seen his owne country in a summers space and haueing got his Majesties licence to trauel beyond the seas in which Licence I could wish this clause were inserted That all yong gentlemen should at their returne present themselues to his Majesty to giue him an account of their trauels and obseruations I would haue him depart England about the beginning of October 2. At his going out of England let him take his ayme right that is let him ayme altogether at his profit and not at his pleasures onely J haue knowne many Englishmen who for want of right ayming haue missed the white of breeding whole heauens breadth For some in traueling ayme at nothing but to get loose from their Parents or schoolmasters and to haue the fingering of a pretty allowance and these men when they come into France care for seeing no court but the Tenniscourt delight in seing no Balls but Tennisballs and forsake any company to tosse whole dayes together with a tattered Marker in the Tripot Others desire to go into Italy onely because they heare there are fine Curtisanes in Venice and as the Queen of the Amazons in Iustin went thirteen dayes journey out of her country onely to haue a nights lodgeing with Alexander the Great so these men trauel a whole month together to Venice for a nights lodgeing with an impudent woman And thus by a false ayming at breeding abroad they returne with those diseases which hinder them from breeding at home Others trauel abroad as our ship-boyes do into the Indies for whiles these boyes might bring home Iewels Pearles ad many other things of valew they bring home nothing but firecanes parots and Monkies so our yong trauelers whiles they might bring home many rich obseruations for the gouerning themselues and others bring home nothing but Fire-canes that is a hotspur humor that takes fire at euery word and talkes of nothing but duels seconds and esclaireissements or else parots that is come loaden home with rubans and feathers of all colours like parots and with a few borowed compliments in their mouths which make them talke like parots or els Monkies that is some affected cringes shrugs and such like Apish behauiour 3. At his embarking let him haue a special care not to carry Himself abroad with Himself in traueling Many men sayth Seneca returne home no better then they went out because they take themselues along with themselues in traueling and as a man in a feauer findes himself no better then he was by changeing his bed because he carryes his feauour with him wheresoeuer he lyes so many yong men returne home tyred and dirted but not better and wiser because they caryed abroad
nearest Posteway I haue gone or come all these wayes in my fiue voyages into Italy and though I preferre the last for speed and conueniency yet I will describe the others too that my yong Traueler may know how to streere his course either in time of plague or warre My first Voyage into Italy MY first voyage was through Flanders and Germany and so to Trent The way is from England to Dunkerque from thence to Furne Newport Ostend Bruges Gant Brussels Louain Liege Colen Mayence Francfort and so crossing to Munichen the Court of the Duke of Bauaria and from thence to Ausburg and Inspruck you come soone to Trent which stands vpon the confines of Germany and lets you into Italy by Treuiso belonging to the Venetians To describe all these foresayd places would take me too much time from my designe of describing Italy and therefore I content my self onely to haue named them My second Voyage MY second Voyage was by the way of France where I started from Paris and made towards Lyons in the way I tooke notice of these places Yssone a neat house belonging then to Monsieur Essolin The house is so pritty that I think it worth the trauelers seeing and my describing It stands in the shade of a thick groue of trees and is wholly built and furnished al' Italiana Vnder the side of the house runns a little brooke which being receiued into a Basin of freestone iust as long as the house and made like a ship that is sharp at both ends and wide in the middle it is clouen and diuided in two by the sharp end of this ship and conueighed in close channels of freestone on both sides of the ship or basin into which it emptyes it self by seueral tunnels or pipes so that all this water spouting into the open ship on both sides by four and twenty tunnels makes vnder the windowes of the house such a perpetual purleing of water like many fountains that the gentle noise is able to make the most iealous man sleep profundly At the other end of the house this water yssueth out of the other end of the sayd ship and is courteously intreated by seueral hidden pipes of lead to walke into the house instead of running by so fast Which it doth and is presently led into the Cellars and Buttery and not onely into these but also into the kitchen stables chambers and bathing roome all which it furnisheth with water either for necessity or pleasure Then being led into the curiours garden it s mett there by a world of little open channels of freestone built like knots of flowers all which it fills brimfull and makes euen Flowers of water Then running vp and downe here and there among the fragrant delights of this garden as if it had forgotten its errand to the Sea it seems to be so taken with those sweet beds of flowers and so desirous of resting vpon them after so many miles runing that i● offers to turne it self into any posture rather then be turned out of this sweet place From Yssonne I came to Fontainbelleau where I saw that Kingly house the Nonesuch of France It stands in the midst of a great Forrest full of Royal game and was the place of delight of Henry the Fourth The house is capable of lodgeing four kings with their seueral Courts The Court of the Cheual blanc is a noble squaire of building but the lowness of the buildings and lodgeings shews they are for the lower Sort of people and the seruant-lodgings to the Royal appartiments The Oual Court is a good old building The Kings and Queens lodgings with their Cabinets groane vnder their rich guilt roofes The Gallery of staggs heads is a stately roome then which nothing can be more Caualierly furnished except such an other gallery hung with Turkish standards wonne in warre The other long Galleries of Romances and Fables painted by Simon Voyët and other are much esteemed the onely pitty is that such true painting should not haue been employed vpon true histories The Salle of the Conference is a stately Roome where the Bishop of Eureux afterwards called the Cardinal du Perron in presence of king Henry the Fourth the Chanceler fiue Iudges of both Religions and the whole Roome full of learned men so confuted Monsieur Plessis Mornay the Achilles of those of Charenton that after the first dayes Conference he durst neuer enter the list againe as he promised but dyed soone after fuller of shame then yeares The Hall for maskes and the Lodgings of Madame Gabrielle with her picture ouer the Chimney like a Diana hunting are fine Roomes yet the fair picture cannot hinder men from blameing her foule life nor from censureing that solaecisme of the painter who made chaste Diana looke like Madame Gabrielle There are also here two Chappels the old and the new The old one is a poore thing and seems to haue been built for hunters but the new one is both neat and stately and built vpon this occasion as a Bishop in France told me A spanish Embassador resideing in Paris in Henry the IV. his time went one day from Paris to Fontainbleau to see this French Escurial Arriueing he lighted after his countryes fashion at the Chappel doore the old Chappel and entring in to thank God for his saif arriual he wondered to see so poore and dark a chappel and asking with indignation whether this were the Casa di Dios The house of God he turned presently a way with scorne Saying No quiero Veer mas I care for seeing no more not staying to see that place where the king had so a fine a house and God so poore a Chappel This being told the last king Lewis the XIII he commanded forth with the new Chappel to be built in that sumptuous posture we now see it Going out of the house you finde a hansome Mail and Rare Ponds of water which euen baptize this place with the name of Fontainbelleau In these Ponds as also in the moat about the house are conserued excellent Carps some whereof were sayd to be a hundred years old which though we were not bound to beleeue yet their very white scales and dull moueing vp and downe might make men beleeue that there are gray scales as well as gray haires and decayed fishes as well as decrepit men especially when Columella speaks of a fish of his acquaintance in Caesars fish ponds neare Pausilipus which had liued threescore years and Gesnerus relates that in a fishpond neare Haylprum in Suabe a fish was catched anno 1497 with a brasse ring at his gills in which were engrauen these words I am the first fish which Federic the second Gouernour of the world put into this Pond the 5 of October 1203. By which it appears that this fish had liued two hundred and sixty odd yeares But to returne againe to our Carps of Fontainbelleau it s an ordinary
may know what to import what to export It makes the mechanick come loaden home with a world of experimental knowledge for the improueing of his trade It makes the feild officer a knowing Leader of an army by teaching him where an army in forrain countryes can march securely passe riuers easily incamp safely auoid ambuscades and narrow passages discretly and retreat orderly It makes the Common soldier play the spy wel by making him speak the ennemyes language perfectly that so mingling with them he may find their designes and crosse their plottes In fine it makes a nobleman fitt for the noblest employment that is to bee Ambassador abroad for his king in forrain countryes and carry about with him his kings person which he represents and his kings word which he engageth 7. Traueling brings a man a world of particular profits It contents the minde with the rare discourses we heare from learned men as the Queen of Saba was rauished at the wisdome of Salomon It makes a wiseman much the wiser by making him see the good and the bad in others Hence the wiseman sayth Sapiens in terram alienigenarum gentium pertransiet bona enim mala in hominibus tentabit It makes a man think himself at home euery where and smile ●t vniust exile It makes him wellcome home a gaine to his Neighbours sought af●er by his betters and listened vnto with admiration by his inferiours It makes him sit still in his old age with satisfaction and trauel ouer the world againe in his chair and bed by discourse and thoughts In fine its an excellent Commentary vpon historyes and no man vnderstands Liuy and Caesar Guicciardin and Monluc like him who hath made exactly ●he Grand Tour of France and the Giro of Italy 8. Trauelling makes my young Nobleman returne home againe to his country like a blessing Sunn For as the Sunn who hath been traueling about the world these fiue thousand and odd yeares not onely enlightens those places whi●h hee visits but also enrich●th them with all sorts of fruits and mettales so the nobleman by long traueling hauing enlightened his vnderstanding with fine notions comes home like a glorious Sunn and doth not onely shine birght in the firmament of his country the Parlament house but also blesseth his inferiours with the powerfull influences of his knowing spirit 9. In fine Examples the best Philosophy shew vs that the greatest Princes Europe hath seen these many years to wit Charles the V. and the King of Sueden Gustauus Adolphus where both of them great trauelers the first had been twice in England as often in Africk four times in France six times is Spayne seuen in Italy and nine in Germany The second had traueld incognito as M. Wats writes of him into Holland France Italy and Germany in his youth which made him say afterwards to the French Ambassador Mareshal Brezé in a kind of threatening way that he knew the way to Paris as wel as to Stockholme Adde to this that the wisest and greatest among the ancien● Philosophers Plato Pythagoras Anaxagoras Anacharsis Apollonius Architas and Pi●tacus which last left his supreame Command of Mytelen to trauel were all great trauelers and that S. Hierome who being no Bishop and consequently not obliged to residence hauing traueled into France Italy Greece and the Holy Land purchased to himself such rare acquisitions of learning by his trauels and languages that among all the ancient Fathers and Doctors The Church in her Collect on his day calls him onel● Doctorem maximum the greatest Doctor And so much for the profit of Traueling Now for as much as concernes the second Lesson to wit the Traueling with profit diuers things are to be taken notice of some by the Parents of those that trauel others by those themselues that trauel of all which I will speak breefly As for the Parents their greatest care ought to be of prouideing there children I speak to men of high condition a good Gouernour to trauel with them and haue a care of their Persons and breeding that is play the part of the Archangel Raphaël to yong Tobie and Lead them safe abroad and bring them safe home Ego sanum ducam reducam filium tuum Tob. 5. v. 20. And here I could wish indeed that Parents could be as happy in their choyce and finde men Angels for Gouernours to their children vpon condition they should requite them as yong Tobie offered to requite the Archangel his Gouernour whom he tooke to be a man For the education of children is a thing of that high concerne to the Commonwealth that in this Parents should spair no coste whatsoeuer but rather imitate the old Lacedemonians who tooke more care of their youth then of any thing els in their Commonweath In so much that when Antigonus a●d of them fifty yong youths for hostages they answered him that they had rather giue him twice as many made men Seing then yong youths are the future hopes of families and Commonwealths their education ought not to be committed but to men of great parts and excellent breeding For I haue allwayes thought that a yong Noblemans train ought to be like his Clothes His Lacquais and footmen are like his Galoshes which he leaues at the dores of those he visits His Valets de Chambre are like his night gowne which he neuer vseth but in his chamber and leaues them there when he goes in visits His gentlemen attendants are like his seueral rich sutes which he wears not all at once but now one now an other and sometimes none at all of them His groome is like his rideing cloake and neuer appears neare him but vpon the road But his Gouernour is like his shirt which is allwayes next vnto his skinn and person and therefore as yong Noblemen are curious to haue their shirts of the finest linnen so should they haue their Gouernours of the finest thread and the best spunn men that can be found Hence the ancients as they were carefull in honouring the memory of those that had binn Gouernours to great Heroes as of Chyron Gouernour of Hercules Iason Paris Achilles and other braue heroes Miscus Gouernour of Vlysses Eudorus of Patroclus Dares of Hector Epitides of Iulus Connidas of Theseus all of them choyce men So they were in chooseing the rarest men for that great employment to be their childrens Gouernours that is in their language Custodes comites iuuentutis Principum magnatum For not euery honest and vertuous man as some Parents think is fit for this employment Those parts indeed would do well in a Stuard and a Soliciter but many things els besides these must concurre to make vp a good Gouernour I would haue him then to be not onely a Vertuous man but a Virtuoso too not onely an honest man but a man of honour too not onely a gentleman borne but a gentile man allso by breeding a man not onely comely of person by
better vsed then hee The Caruers neuer touch the meat with their hands but onely with their knife and forke and great Syluer spoone for the sauce Euery man here eats with his forke and knife and neuer toucheth any thing with his fingers but his bread This keeps the linnen neat and the fingers sweet If you drink to an Italian he thanks you with bending when you salute him and lets you drink quietly without watching as we do in England to thank you againe when you haue drunk and the first time he drinks after that will be to you in requitall of your former courtesy They count not the houres of the day as we do from twelue to twelue but they beginn their count from sunset and the first houre after sunset is one a clock and so they count on till four and Twenty that is till the next sunset againe I haue often dined at sixteen a clock and gone abroad in the euening to take the ayre at two and twenty They call men much by their Christen names Signor Pietro Signor Francesco Signor Jacomo c. and you may liue whole years with an Italian and be very well acquinted with him without knowing him that is without knowing his distintiue surname People of quality neuer visit one another but they send first to know when they may do it without troubleing him they intend to visit by this meanes they neuer rush into one anothers chambers without knocking as they do in France nor crosse the designes or business of him they visit as they do in England with tedious dry visits nor find one another either vndressed in clothes vnprouided in compliments and discourse or without their attendants and traine about them In the streets men and women of condition seldome or neuer go together in the same coache except they be strangers that is of an other towne or country nay husbands and wifes are Seldome seen together in the same coache because all men do not know them to be so In the streets when two persons of great quality meet as two Embassadors or two Cardinales they both stop their coaches and compliment one another ciuily and then retire but still he that is inferiour must let the others coache moue first If any man being a foot in the street meet a great man either in coache or a foot he must not salute him in going on his way as we do in England and France without stopping but he must stand still whiles the other passeth and bend respectfully to him as he goes by and then continue his march In fine of all the Nations I haue seen I know none that liues clothes eats drinks and speaks so much with reason as the Italians do As for their Riches they must needs be great That which is visible in their magnificent Pallaces Churches Monasteries Gardens Fountains and rich furnished Roomes speaks that to be great which is in their coffers and that which the King of spayne drawes visibly from Naples euery yeare shews what the other parts of Italy could do for a need if they were put to it by necessity Nay I am of opinion that the very Sacristy of Loreto the Gallery of the Duke of Florence and the Treasory of Venice would vpon an emergent occasion of a Gothick or Turkish inuasion be able to maintain an army for fiue yeares space and the Plate in Churches and Monasteryes would be able to do as much more if the owners of it were soundly frighted with a new Gothick irruption As for the Riches of particular Princes in Italy I will speak of them as I view their Stats here below In fine as for their Religion it s purely that which other countrys call by its true name Catholick and which in England they commonly call the Religion of the Papists And though there they think to nickname the Catholick by calling him Papist yet the well instructed Catholick knowing that the name of Papist comes not from any Sectmaster as Caluinist Lutheran Socinian and Brownist doe nor from any Sectary meeting place as Hugonots from the Gate of Hugo in Towers in France neare vnto which they mett priuately at first to teach and dogmatise nor from any publick sectary action as Anabaptists Dippers Quakers c. do but from the word Papa which signifies Father and is not the name of any one man or Pope but onely signifies his Fatherly office of Pastor tho Catholick I say is no more troubled at this name of Papist then he was when hee was called in the late troubles Royallist for adhearing to the king which is not the name of any of our kings but his office onely and not Cromwellist which was the name of one adhearing to a particular man called Cromwell and an vnlawfull vsurper of Power As for the true name indeed which is Catholick it is so knowne to belong to those of the Roman Church that besides that all those of that Church haue euer called themselues by no other name then this of Catholick the wisest of Protestants also acknowledge it publikely to be their distinctiue name witnesse that solemne meeting at Munster some yeares ago about the General Peace of Christendome where the Publick Jnstrument of that Peace sheweth plainly how that the Protestant Plenipotentiaries the wisest men of that Religion treated with the Papists as some call them vnder the name of Catholicks and though in many other titles and denominations they were very wary and scrupulous euen to the long suspension of the Peace yet they willingly concluded subscribed and signed that Peace made with them vnder the name of Catholicks I say this onely for to make men vnderstand what the true name of the Religion practised ouer all Jtaly is to-wit Catholick Haueing sayd thus much of Italy in Generall I will now come to a particular Description of it according to the ocular obseruations I made of it in fiue seueral Voyages through it In which Description if I be a little prolixe it is because I rid not Poste through Italy when I saw it nor will I write poste through it in describing it being assured that Epitomees in Geography are as dissatisfactory as Laconick Letters would be in state Relations and that the great Atlas in nine great volumes in folio is not onely Atlas Maior but also Atlas Melior The seueral wayes by which a man may go into Italy THE ordinary wayes which an Englishman may take in going into Italy are fiue to wit either through Flanders and Germany and so to fall in at Trent or Treuiso and so to Venice Or els by France and so to Marseilles and thence to Genua by Sea Or els by land from Lyons through Swisserland the Gris●ns country and the Valteline and so pop vp at Brescia Or els from Lyons againe through the Valesians country ouer Mount Sampion the Lake Maior and so to Milan Or els in fine from Lyons still ouer Mount Cenis and so to Turin the