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A29826 A brief account of some travels in divers parts of Europe viz Hungaria, Servia, Bulgaria, Macedonia, Thessaly, Austria, Styria, Carinthia, Carniola, and Friuli : through a great part of Germany, and the Low-Countries : through Marca Trevisana, and Lombardy on both sides of the Po : with some observations on the gold, silver, copper, quick-silver mines, and the baths and mineral waters in those parts : as also, the description of many antiquities, habits, fortifications and remarkable places / by Edward Brown. Brown, Edward, 1644-1708. 1685 (1685) Wing B5111; ESTC R7514 234,342 240

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side there is fastned a Collar of Brass at present but was formerly of Lead and given by Charles the Fifth into this most Strangers that come put their Necks at which time they ask them Whether they will be sprinkled with water or drink wine and if they choose the latter they give an entertainment of Wine to the Company The Queen of Sweden passing by this place gave a great Silver Cup out of which they now drink at this Ceremony We lodged this night at Wesel a Town situated between a high Hill and the River belonging to the Archbishop of Triers Here in the Market-place they shew'd us the print of St. Hubert's Horses foot in a Free-stone On the 19 th we came to Baccharach or ad Bacchiaras belonging to the Elector Palatine a place famous for excellent Wines We passed by an old Castle seated upon a Rock in the middle of the Rhine being of an irregular figure called P●alts where formerly the Prince Palatines of the Rhine were born the Princesses being sent hither to be brought to Bed We came this night to Dreickshausen the next day we went by a dangerous Passage there being many Rocks under water which cause the River to run very rapid and unequally A little above this we came to a round Tower on a Rock in the Rhine called the Mouse-tower built by Hatto Archbishop of Mentz in the year 900. who as the Story goes in a time of great Scarcity pretending to relieve the poor who wanted bread invited them together into a Barn where he burnt them all saying They were like the Rats and Mice which would devour the Corn. After which he was so persecuted with Rats and Mice that to avoid them he caused this Tower to be built in the middle of the Rhine which did not avail him for they followed him thither also and at last devoured him A little above this lies Bing upon the Western shoar a considerable Town belonging to the Elector of Mentz here our Boat stayed to pay Custom as it had done also at Bonna Liutz Hammerstein Andernach Coblentz Lodesheim Bopport St. Gower Cub and Baccarach For the trade of the Rhine being great Princes and Lords who have Towns upon it make use of that advantage which though it abates the gains of the Merchant brings considerable profit to themselves Bing or Bingium was an old Roman Fortress upon the Rhine where the River Navus or Naw enters into it over which latter there is a handsome Stone-bridge In this Town were many of the Duke of Lorrain's Army sick and wounded who three weeks before had maintained a fight against the Forces of the Elector Palatine near this place From Bing we continued our Journey to Mentz at Rudesheim in Rhinegaw a place noted for good Wine they shewed us a Boy whose hair was thick and woolly like to the African Moors but of a fine white colour which being somewhat an odd fight I took away some of his hair with me Mentz Moguntia Moguntiacum and by the French Mayence is seated over against the Confluence of the River Main with the Rhine or rather a little below it in a fertile Country abounding in all Provisions and good Wine it lies at length and is most extended towards the River and that part excels the other towards the Land which is not so populous or well-built It is a strong place and well guarded it hath many Churches and Monasteries and some fair Buildings especially those of publick concern as the Palace of the Elector and others But the narrowness of the Streets and many old Houses take away much from the beauty of the City It is an University begun about the year 1486. or as others will have it 1461. This place also challenges the Invention of Printing or at least the first promotion or perfection thereof And the Territory about it is famous for the destruction of the Roman Legions under Varus by the Germans Gustavus Adolphus King of Sweden was wonderfully pleased upon the taking of this City 1631. entring into it in State upon the 14 th of December it being his Birth-day which began the 38 th year of his life and kept his Court and Christmas here where at one time there were with him six chief Princes of the Empire twelve Ambassadors of Kings States Electors and Princes besides Dukes and Lords and the Martial men of his own Army At the taking of the Town they found great store of Ordnance and Powder and the City redeemed it self from Pillage by giving the King a Ransom of Eighty thousand Dollars and the Clergy and Jews gave Two and twenty thousand more of which the Jews paid Eighteen thousand Archbishop Wamhold saving himself upon the Rhine and retiring to Colen The King caused also two great Bridges to be made one over the Main founded upon fifteen great flat bottom'd Boats the rest being built upon great Piles of Wood Another over the Rhine supported by sixty one great flat Boats each lying the distance of an Arch from one another and many Families of people living sometimes in the Boats under the Bridge The Bridge over the Main is taken away but that over the Rhine is still continued Upon which I saw the present Elector passing in his Coach a Person of great Gravity of a middle Stature having long grey Hair and was very Princely attended his Name is Joannes Philippus of the Noble Family of Schoenburg Elector and Archbishop of Mentz Bishop of Wurtzburg and Bishop of Worms Arch-Chancellor of the Empire for all Germany the first of the Electoral College in all publick Conventions he sits at the right hand of the Emperor and is a Successor of the famous Boniface an English man Bishop of Mentz who very much promoted the Christian Religion in these parts But though his Dignity and Place excel the two other Ecclesiastical Electors of Colen and Triers yet his Territories come short and they lie not together but scatteringly with those of the Palatinate Spier Franckfort and divers places in Franconia But of late he hath much encreased his Power by seizing the great City of Erfurdt in Turingia which he hath since much beautified and strengthned by a Citradel built upon St. Peters-hill In the year One Thousand one hundred and fourteen the Emperor Henry the Fourth sent an Ambassador to the King of England Henry the First requesting that Maude the Kings daughter whom he had formerly espoused by Proxy might now being Marriage-able be sent to him to which request the King most willingly condescended and the Princess was presently conducted by his greatest Peers into Germany and at Mentz was married to Henry the Fourth and there Crowned his Empress From Mentz I passed by water up the River Main to Franckfort a free City of the Empire called Trajectum Franconum a Passage or Ford of the Franks as serving them for a Retreat when they entred or returned from Gaul at present Franckford upon the
the height of the Angle forty yet are not always so regularly placed but rather follow the shape of the Hill and according to that are differently situated Here I also observed a Substance between a Clay and a stone called Leberstein or Liverstone and upon many of these Stones I found the figures of Trees and Leaves though not so deep or neat as upon the Stones by Florence yet very prettily marked and often with broader Leaves than I had elsewhere observed I passed forward to Closter-Neubur● a Town most of it belonging to that notable rich Monastery seated here founded by St. Leopoldus Marquess of Austria and since much enriched by succeeding Donations Matthaeus Merian hath a good cut of the Prospect of the Danube hereabouts and in what manner it passes downwards between the two great Hills of Kalenberg and Bisnberg Upon one Peak of Kalenbreg live divers Camaldulenses of an Order the most severe of any living most upon Roots and Herbs in the manner of Hermites Near their Cells they had paved the ground with those Stones I mentioned which were naturally marked with the Shapes of Trees and Plants After an open Autumn there followed a sharp Winter at Vienna in the months of December and January The branches of the Danube were soon frozen over The main Stream by reason of its swift Current held out longer but was afterwards also frozen Some have thought that this River is more apt to freez than others And we read of Battels which have been fought upon this River frozen but I could not make any regular Observation thereof This hard weather the ground being covered with Snow afforded handsom Recreations unto men and some unto the Ladies in running Courses in handsom Sleds and Devices upon the Snow Their Sleds were well contrived in the shape of Griffins Tigers Swans Scallop Shells Dolphins Peacocks and the like Curiosities cared painted and gilded The Lady sits in one of these richly habited in Velvet lined with rich Furrs set off with Lace and Jewels in a Velvet Cap lined with Sables The Sled is drawn by a Horse dressed up with Feathers of all colours and Bells hanging about him a pair of Stags horns behind his head Ribbons and other Ornaments one or more Pages ride by on Horseback with Torches in their hands And after this ●anner they perform their Course upon the frozen Snow about the streets of Vienna in the night with good speed one after another A Gentleman sits behind the Lady and guides the Horse But the Frost breaking up put an end to these Recreations The Frost began and ended here the same day that it began and ended in England The Festivity of Christmas was observed much after the same Manner Ceremonies and Solemnities as in Italy On Christmas-day the Emperor dined publickly attended with many Nobles and great Persons and three remarkable low Dwarss Upon St. Stephen's day he went to the Cathedral of St. Stephen and went up to the Altar kneeled and kissed the Plate whereon the Hostia had lain At the Epiphany or Twelfth-tide the old custom of choosing King and Queen was observed at Court Count Lesly happened to be King the Emperor laid the Cloth and the Empress filled out Wine together with other old Customs Fetched perhaps in part from ancienter times Saturnalium diebus mos Romanis praebere servis convivium sic ut ipsi officia serv●rum obirent Before Christmas there was extraordinary mirth and jollity at the Court upon occasion of a Marriage For Count Serau Governor of Gratz in Styria married a natural Daughter of Philip the Fourth King of Spain which was observed with many noble Solemnities and Braveries And the Nobility and Ladies were so substantially splendid that I was much surprized thereat This was followed by a Funeral Solemnity for the Count of Draun who was Colonel of the Forces in Vienna and who had one of the noblest Houses in the City his Corps was brought out of Italy and interred in the Dominican Church where he formerly built a very fair Altar there was raised for him a Castrum Doloris handsomly contrived and set round with white Wax Torches and Candles While I was in Vien●a the Empress Margarita was delivered of a Daughter which was Christned by the name of Maria Antonina Josepha Benedicta Rosalia Petronella but she lived not many months When the Empress came abroad she brought the Child to the Augustines Church where Cardinal Carlo Caraffa the Pope's Nuncio received it blessed it and laid it upon the Altar During my stay here the Election was in readiness for a King of Poland after the voluntary resignation of that Crown by King Casimir and Couriers often passed between that Country and this There were Competitors the Czar of Muscovy's Son the Duke of Newburg and the Prince of Lorrain The French moved actively for the Duke of Newburg the Emperor for the Prince of Lorrain who was then at Vi nna in great favour with the Emperor who greatly promoted his interest a Person of great esteem and who if General Lub●mirski had been living who was his intimate Friend in all probability might have obtained the Crown and thereupon it was conceived that he should have married the Emperor's Sister But the Poles made choice of one of their own Country who was no Competitor Michael Wisnowitski deceased who also married the Sister of the Emperor When I was here there were many Ambassadours of Note D●n Balthasar de la Cueva Marquiss of Malago● and Brother to the Viceroy of Naples was Ambassador for Spain Cardinal Carlo Carassa was the Pope's Nuncio The Venetia● Ambassador Extraordinary sollicited for assistance for Candia and he obtained the Regiment of Porcia under Marquis Pio. Count Souches the younger who was Governor of Leop ldstadt and many noble and valiant Souldiers were preparing for that Expedition The Turks gave assurance of the Seignior's intention to maintain the Peace inviolably and requested the Emperor not to assist the Venetians or Transylvanians nor to promote but rather hinder the Election of the Emperor of Muscovy's Son to the Crown of Poland The Bishop of Beziers sent by the King of France to the Election of the King of Poland came not hither but passed through Nurenburg where I lodged at the same Inn They were generally here against the French Interest and so were a great part of the Polish Nobility An Ambassador came also from the Cham of Tartary to confirm a Peace and afford mutual Assistance upon occasion Cha Gagi A●a was the Ambassador who brought a Present of the best Tartarian Horses which are of high esteem for swiftness hardiness boldness in passing frozen Rivers and taking and swimming over great Streams He was dismissed with noble Presents of Plate The Emperor presented the Cham of Tartary with a fair Silver Bason and Ewer and a curious Watch and sent Presents unto the Chammine his Wife and also to his Sister and four Brothers His Followers were stout men of good stature coarse