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england_n	henry_n	king_n	scotland_n	18,184	5	9.4926	5	true

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ID	Title	Author	Corrected Date of Publication (TCP Date of Publication)	STC	Words	Pages
A13485	The pennyles pilgrimage, or The money-lesse perambulation, of Iohn Taylor, alias the Kings Majesties water-poet How he trauailed on foot from London to Edenborough in Scotland, not carrying any money to or fro, neither begging, borrowing, or asking meate, drinke or lodging. With his description of his entertainment in all places of his iourney, and a true report of the vnmatchable hunting in the brea of Marre and Badenoch in Scotland. With other obseruations, some serious and worthy of memory, and some merry and not hurtfull to be remembred. Lastly that (which is rare in a trauailer) all is true.	Taylor, John, 1580-1653.	1618 (1618)	STC 23784; ESTC S118255	31,268	54

glory Then Rome doth by fantastick Purgatory A long mile thus I past downe downe steepe steepe In deepenesse farre more deepe then Neptunes deepe Whilst o're my head in fourefould stories hye Was Earth and Sea and Ayre and Sun and Skie That had I dyed in that Cimerian roome Foure Elements had couered ore my tombe Thus farther then the bottome did I goe And many Englishmen haue not done so Where mounting Porposes and mountaine Whales And Regiments of fish with finnes and Scales Twixt me and Heauen did freely glide and slide And where great Ships may at an Anchor ride Thus in by sea and out by land I past And tooke my leaue of good Sir George at last The Sea at certaine places doth leake or soake into the Mine which by the industry of Sir George Bruce is all conueyd to one well neere the land where hee hath a deuise like a horsemill that with three horses and a great chaine of Iron going downeward many fadomes with thirty sixe buckets fastened to the chaine of the which eighteene goes downe still to be filled and eighteene ascends vp to be emptied which doe empty themselues without any mans labour into a trough that conueyes the water into the Sea againe by which meanes he saues his Myne which otherwise would be destroyed with the Sea beside he doth make euery weeke ninety or an hundred Tuns of salt which doth serue part of Scotland some hee sends into England and very much into Germany all which shewes the painefull industry with Gods blessings to such worthy endeauours I must with many thankes remember his courtesie to mee and lastly how he sent his man to guide me ten miles on the way to Sterling where by the way I saw the outside of a faire and stately house called Allaway belonging to the Earle of Marr which by reason that his Honor was not there I past by and went to Sterling where I was entertained and lodged at one Mr. Iohn Archibalds where all my want was that I wanted roome to containe halfe the good cheere that I might haue had there hee had me into the Castle which in few words I doe compare to Windsor for scituation much more then Windsor in strength and somewhat lesse in greatnes yet I dare affirme that his Majesty hath not such another hall to any house that he hath neither in England nor Scotland except Westminster Hall which is now no dwelling Hall for a Prince being long since metamorphosed into a house for the Law and the profits This goodly Hall was built by King Iames the fourth that married King Henry the eights sister and after was slaine at Flodden field but it surpasses all the halls for dwelling houses that euer I saw for length breadth height and strength of building the Castle is built vpon a rocke very lofty and much beyond Edenborough Castle in state and magnificence and not much inferiour to it in strength the roomes of it are lofty with carued workes on the seelings the doores of each roome beeing so high that a man may ride vpright on horsebacke into any chamber or lodging There is also a goodly faire Chappell with Cellers Stables and all other necessary Offices all very stately and besitting the Maiestie of a King From Sterling I rode to Saint Iohnston a fine Towne it is but it is much decayed by reason of the want of his Maiesties yearely comming to lodge there There I lodged one night at an Inne the Goodman of the house his name being Patrick Pettcarne where my entertainement was with good cheere good drinke good lodging all too good to a bad weary guest Mine Host tolde mee that the Earle of Marr and Sir William Murray of Abercarny were gone to the great hunting to the Brea of Marre but if I made hast I might perhaps finde them at a Towne called Breekin or Breechin two and thirty miles from Saint Iohns Stone wherevpon I tooke a guide to Breekin the next day but before I came my Lord was gone from thence foure dayes Then I tooke another guide which brought mee such strange wayes ouer mountaines and rockes that I thinke my horse neuer went the like and I am sure I neuer saw any wayes that might fellow them I did goe through a Country called Glaneske where passing by the side of a hill so steepe as is the ridge of a house where the way was rocky and not aboue a yard broad in some places so fearefull and horrid it was to looke downe into the bottome for if either horse or man had slipt he had fallen without recouery a good mile downe-right but I thanke God at night I came to a lodging in the Lard of Eggells Land where I lay at an Irish house the folkes not being able to speake scarce any English but I sup'd and went to bed where I had not laine long but I was enforced to rise I was so stung with Irish Musketaes a Creature that hath sixe legs liues like a monster altogether vpon mans flesh they doe inhabite and breed in most sluttish houses and this house was none of the cleanliest the beast is much like a louse in England both in shape and nature in a word they were to me the A. and the Z. the Prologue and the Epilogue the first and the last that I had in all my trauells from Edenborough and had not this highland Irish house helped mee at a pinch I should haue sworne that all Scotland had not beene so kind as to haue bestowed a Louse vpon me but with a shift that I had I shifted off my Caniballs and was neuer more troubled with them The next day I trauelled ouer an exceeding high mountaine called mount Skeene where I found the valley very warme before I went vp it but when I came to the top of it my teeth beganne to daunce in my head with colde like Virginall iackes and withall a most familiar mist embraced mee round that I could not see thrice my length any way withall it yeelded so friendly a deaw that it did moysten through all my clothes Where the olde Prouerbe of a Scottish Miste was verified in wetting mee to the skinne Vp and downe I thinke this hill is sixe miles the way so vneuen stonie and full of bogges quagmires and long heath that a dogge with three legs will outrunne a horse with foure for doe what we could wee were foure houres before we could passe it Thus with extreame trauell ascending and descending mounting alighting I came at night to the place where I would bee in the Brea of Marr which is a large Countie all composed of such mountaines that Shooters Hill Gads Hill Highgate Hill Hampsted hill Birdlip hill or Maluerne hilles are but Mole hilles in comparison or like a Liuer or a Gizard vnder a Capons wing in respect of the altitude of their toppes or perpendicularitie of their bottomes There I saw Mount Benawne with a furr'd mist vpon his snowie head in

THE PENNYLES PILGRIMAGE OR The Money-lesse perambulation of IOHN TAYLOR Alias the Kings Majesties Water-Poet HOW HE TRAVAILED ON FOOT from London to Edenborough in Scotland not carrying any Money to or fro neither Begging Borrowing or Asking Meate drinke or Lodging With his Description of his Entertainment in all places of his Iourney and a true Report of the vnmatchable Hunting in the Brea of Marre and Badenoch in Scotland With other Obseruations some serious and worthy of Memory and some merry and not hurtfull to be Remembred Lastly that which is Rare in a Trauailer all is true LONDON Printed by Edw All de at the charges of the Author 1618. TO THE TRVLY NOBLE AND RIGHT Honorable Lord GEORGE Marquesse of Buckingham Viscount VILLEIRS Baron of Whaddon Iustice in Eyre of all his Maiesties Forrests Parkes and Chases beyond Trout Master of the Horse to his Maiesty and one of the Gentlemen of his Highnesse Royall Bed-Chamber Knight of the most Noble order of the Garter and one of his Majesties most Honorable Priuie Councell of both the Kingdomes of England and Scotland RIght Honorable and worthy honour'd Lord as in my Trauailes I was Entertain'd welcom'd and relieu'd by many Honourable Lords Worshipfull Knights Esquires Gentlemen and others both in England Scotland So now your Lordships Inclination hath incited or inuited my poore Muse to shelter herselfe vnder the shadow of your Honourable Patronage not that there is any worth at all in my sterill inuention but in all Humilitie I acknowledge that it is onely your Lordships acceptance that is able to make this nothing something and withall engage me euer Your Honours in all obseruance IOHN TAYLOR To all my louing Aduenturers by what name or title so euer my generall salutation REader these Trauailes of mine into Scotland were not vndertaken neither in imitation or emulation of any man but onely deuised by my selfe on purpose to make triall of my friends both in this Kingdome of England and that of Scotland and because I would be an eye witnesse of diuers things which I had heard of that Country and whereas many shallow-brain'd Critickes doe lay an aspersion on me that I was set on by others or that I did vndergoe this project either in malice or mockage of Maister Beniamin Ionson I vow by the faith of a Christian that their imaginations are all wide for he is a Gentleman to whom I am so much obliged for many vndeserued courtesies that I haue receiued from him and from others by his fauour that I durst neuer to be so impudent or ingratefull as either to suffer any mans perswasions or mine owne instigation to incite me to make so bad a requitall for so much goodnesse formerly receiued so much for that and now Reader if you expect That I should write of Cities scituations Or that of Countries I should make relations Of brooks crooks nooks of riuers boorns and rills Of mountaines fountaines Castles Towers hills Of Shieres and Pieres and memorable things Of liues and deaths of great commanding Kings I touch not those they not belong to mee But if such things as these you long to see Lay downe my Booke and but vouchsafe to reede The learned Camden or laborious Speede. And so God speede you and me whilst I rest yours in all thankfulnes IOHN TAYLOR TAYLORS PENNILESSE PILGRIMAGE LIst Lordings list if you haue lust to list I write not here a tale of had I wist But you shall heare of trauels and relations Descriptions of strange yet English fashions And he that not beleeues what here is writ Let him as I haue done make proofe of it The yeare of grace accounted as I weene One thousand twice three hundred and eighteene And to relate all things in order duly 'T was Tuesday last the fourteenth day of Iuly Saint Reuels day the Almanacke will tell ye The signe in Virgo was or neere the belly The Moone full three dayes old the winde full South At these times I began this trick of youth I speake not of the Tide for vnderstand My legges I made my Oares and rowed by land Though in the morning I began to goe Good fellowes trooping flock'd me so That make what hast I could the Sunne was set E're from the gates of London I could get At last I tooke my latest leaue thus late At the Bell Inne that 's extra Aldersgate There stoode a horse that my prouant should carie From that place to the end of my fegarie My Horse no Horse or Mare but guelded Nagge That with good vnderstanding bore my bagge And of good cariage he himselfe did show These things are ex'lent in a beast you know There in my Knapsack to pay hungers fees I had good Bacon Bisket Neates-tongue Cheese With Roses Barbaries of each Conserues And Mithridate that vigrous health preserues And I entreate you take these words for no-lyes I had good Aqua vita Rosa so-lies With sweet Ambrosia the Gods owne drinke Most ex'lent geere for mortalls as I thinke Besides I had both vineger and oyle That could a daring sawcie stomack foyle This foresaid Tuesday night 'twixt eight and nine Well rigg'd and ballac'd both with Beere and Wine I stumbling forward thus my iaunt begun And went that night as farre as Islington There did I finde I dare affirme it bold A Maydenhead of twenty fiue yeeres old But surely it was painted like a whore And for a signe or wonder hang'd at ' dore Which shewe a Maidenhead that 's kept so long May be hang'd vp and yet sustaine no wrong There did my louing friendly Host begin To entertaine me freely to his Inne And there my friends and good associates Each one to mirth himselfe accommodates At Well head both for welcome and for cheere Hauing a good New tonne of good stale Beere There did we Trundle downe health after health Which oftentimes impaires both health and wealth Till euery one had fill'd his mortall Trunke And onely Nobody was three parts drunke The morrow next Wednesday Saint Swithins day From ancient Islington I tooke my way At Hollywell I was inforc'd carrowse Ale high and mightie at the Blinde-mans house But ther 's a helpe to make amends for all That though the Ale be great the Pots be small At High-gate hill to a strange house I went And saw the people were to eating bent I neither Borrow'd Crau'd Ask'd Begg'd or Bought But most laborious with my teeth I wrought I did not this cause meate or drinke was scant But I did practise thus before my want Like to a Tilter that would winne the prize Before the day hee 'le often excercise So I began to put in vre at first These principles 'gainst hunger and 'gainst thirst Close to the Gate their dwelt a worthy man That well could take his whiffe and quaffe his Canne Right Robin Good-fellow but humors euill Doe call him Robin Pluto or the Deuill But finding him a Deuill freely harted With friendly farewels I

wife and modest daughter Besse With Earth and Heau'ns felicity God blesse Two dayes a man of his at his command Did guide me to the midst of Westmerland And my Conductor with a liberall fist To keepe me moyst scarce any Alehouse mist. The fourth of August weary halt and lame We in the darke t a Towne call'd Sebder came There Maister Borrowd my kinde honest Host Vpon me did bestow vnasked cost The next day I held on my iourney still Sixe miles vnto a place call'd Carling hill Where Maister Edmond Branthwaite doth recide Who made me welcome with my man and guide Our entertainement and our fare was such It might haue satisfied our betters much Yet all too little was his kinde heart thought And fiue miles on my way himselfe me brought At Orton he I and my man did dine With Maister Corney a good true Diuine And surely Maister Branthwait's well belou'd His firme integrity is much approu'd His good effects doth make him still affected Of God and good men with regard respected He sent his man with me o're Dale and Downe Who lodg'd and borded me at Peereth Towne And such good cheere and bedding there I had That nothing but my weary selfe was bad There a fresh man I know not for whose sake With me a iourney would to Carlile make But from that Citie about two miles wide Good Sir Iohn Dalston lodg'd me and my guide Of all the Gentlemen in England bounds His house is neerest to the Scottish grounds And Fame proclaimes him farre and neere aloud He 's free from being couetous or proud His sonne Sir George most affable and kinde His fathers image both in forme and minde On Saturday to Carlile both did ride Where by their loues and leaues I did abide Where of good entertainement I found store From one that was the Mayor the yeare before His name is Maister Adam Robinson I the last English friendship with him won He gratis found a guide to bring me thorough From Carlile to the Citie Edinborough This was a helpe that was a helpe alone Of all my helps inferiour vnto none Fight miles from Carlile runnes a little Riuer Which Englands bounds from Scotlands grounds doth seuer Without Horse Bridge or Boate I o're did get On foote I went yet scarce my shooes did wet I being come to this long look'd for land Did marke remarke note renote viewd and scand And I saw nothing that could change my will But that I thought my selfe in England still The Kingdomes are so neerely ioyn'd and fixt There scarcely went a paire of Sheares betwixt There I saw skie aboue and earth below And as in England there the Sunne did shew The hills with Sheepe repleate with Corne the dale And many a cottage yeelded good Scotch Ale This County Avandale in former times Was the curst climate of rebellious crimes For Cumberland and it both Kingdomes borders Were euer ordred by their owne disorders Such sha king shifting cutting throates and thieuing Each taking pleasure in the others grieuing And many times he that had wealth to night Was by the morrow morning beggerd quite To many yeares this pell-mell furie lasted That all these borders were quite spoyl'd and wasted Confusion hurly-burly raign'd and reueld The Churches with the lowly ground were leueld All memorable monuments defac'd All places of defence o'rethrowne and rac'd That who so then did in the borders dwell Liu'd little happier then those in hell But since the all-disposing God of heauen Hath these two Kingdomes to one Monarch giuen Blest peace and plenty on them both hath showr'd Exile and hanging hath the theeues deuowr'd That now each subiect may securely sleepe His Sheepe and neate the blacke the white doth keepe For now those Crownes are both in one combinde Those former borders that each one confinde Appeares to me as I doe vnderstand To be almost the Center of the land This was a blessed heauen expounded riddle To thrust great Kingdomes skirts into the middle Long may the instrumentall cause suruiue From him and his succession still deriue True heires vnto his vertues and his throane That these two Kingdomes euer may be one This County of all Scotland is most poore By reason of the outrages before Yet mighty store of Corne I saw there growe And as good grasse as euer man did mowe And as that day I twenty miles did passe I saw eleuen hundred Neat at grasse By which may be coniectur'd at the least That there was sustenance for man and beast And in the Kingdome I haue truly scand There 's many worser parts are better mand For in the time that theeuing was in vre The Gentles fled to places more secure And left the poorer sort t' abide the paine Whilest they could ne're finde time to turne againe That Shire of Gentlemen is scarce and dainty Yet there 's reliefe in great aboundance plenty Twixt it and England little oddes I see They eate and liue and strong and able bee So much in Verse and now I le change my stile And seriously I 'le write in Prose a while To the purpose then my first nights Lodging in Scotland was at a place called Mophot which they say is thirty miles from Carlile but I suppose them to be longer then forty of such miles as are betwixt London and S. Albanes but indeed the Scots doe allow almost as large measure of their miles as they doe of their drinke for an English Gallon either of Ale or Wine is but their quart and one Scottish mile now and then may well stand for a mile and a halfe or two English but howsoeuer short or long I found that dayes iourney the weariest that euer I footed and at night being come to the Towne I found good ordinary Countrey entertainment my fare and my lodging was sweete and good and might haue serued a far better man then my selfe although my selfe haue had many times better but this is to be noted that though it Rained not all the day yet it was my fortune to be well wet twise for I waded ouer a great Riuer called Eske in the morning somewhat more then 4. miles distance from Carlile in England and at night within two miles of my lodging I was faine to wade ouer the Riuer of Annan in Scotland from which Riuer the County of Annandale hath it's name And whilst I waded on foote my man was mounted on horse-backe like the George without the Dragon But the next morning I arose and left Mophot behind me and that day I trauailed twenty one miles to a sory Village called Blithe but I was blithe my selfe to come to any place of harbour or succour for since I was borne I neuer was so weary or so neere being dead with extreame trauell I was founderd and refounderd of all foure and for my better comfort I came so late that I must lodge without doore all night or else in a poore house where the good wife lay

Deuill in his feathers and after supper a fire of firre wood as high as an indifferent May-pole for I assure you that the Earle of Marre will giue any man that is his friend for thankes as many Firre trees that are as good as any shippes mastes in England as are worth if they were in any place neere the Thames or any other portable Riuer the best Earledome in England or Scotland either For I dare affirme hee hath as many growing there as would serue for mastes from this time to the end of the world for all the Shippes Carackes Hoyes Galleyes Boates Drumlers Barkes and Water-craftes that are now or can bee in the world these fourtie yeares This sounds like a lie to an vnbeleeuer but I and many thousands doe knowe that I speake within the compasse of truth for indeede the more is the pitie they doe growe so farre from any passage of water and withall in such rockie Mountaines that no way to conuey them is possible to bee passable either with Boate Horse or Cart. Thus hauing spent certaine dayes in Hunting in the Brea of Marr wee went to the next Countie called Bagenoch belonging to the Earle of Engye where hauing such sport and entertainement as wee formerly had after foure or fiue dayes pastime wee tooke leaue of hunting for that yeare and tooke our iourney toward a strong house of the Earles called Ruthen in Bagenoch where my Lord of Engye and his noble Countesse being daughter to the Earle of Argile did giue vs most noble welcome three dayes From thence wee went to a place called Ballo Castle a faire and stately house a worthy Gentleman beeing the owner of it called the Lard of Graunt his wife beeing a Gentlewoman honourably descended being sister to the right Honourable Earle of Atholl and to Sir Patricke Murray Knight shee beeing both inwardly and outwardly plentifully adorned with the guifts of Grace and Nature so that our cheere was more then sufficient and yet much lesse then they could affoord vs. There staied there foure dayes foure Earles one Lord diuers Knights and Gentlemen and their seruants footemen and horses and euery meale foure long Tables furnished with all varieties Our first and second course beeing threescore Dishes at one boord and after that alwayes a Banquet and there if I had not forsworne wine till I came to Edinbrough I thinke I had there dranke my last The fifth day with much adoe wee gate from thence to Tarnaway a goodly house of the Earle of Murrayes ●●here that right Honourable Lord and his Ladie did welcome vs foure dayes more There was good cheere in all varietie with somewhat more then plentie for aduantage for indeed the Countie of Murray is the most pleasantess and plentifullest Countrey in all Scotland being plaine land that a Coach may bee driuen more then foure and thirtie myles one way in it all alongst by the Sea-coast From thence I went to Elgen in Murray an auncient Citie where there stood a faire and beautifull Church with three steeples the walles of it and the steeples all yet standing but the Roofe Windowes and many Marble Monuments and Toombes of honourable and worthie personages all broken and defaced this was done in the time when ruine bare rule and Knox knock'd downe Churches From Elgen we went to the B. of Murray his house which is called Spinye or Spinaye A reuerend Gentleman hee is of the noble name of Dowglasse where wee were very well welcomed as befitted the honour of himselfe and his guests From thence wee departed to the Lord Marquesse of Huntleyes to a sumptuous house of his named the Bogg of Geethe where our entertainement was like himselfe free bountifull and honourable There after two dayes stay with much entreatie and earnest suite I gate leaue of the Lords to depart towards Edinbrough the Noble Marquesse the Earles of Marr Murray Engie Bughan and the Lord Erskin all these I thanke them gaue me gold to defray my charges in my iourney So after fiue and thirtie dayes hunting and trauell I returning past by another stately mansion of the Lord Marquesses called Stroboggy and so ouer Carny mount to Breekin where a wench that was borne deafe and dumbe came into my chamber at mid-night I beeing asleepe and shee opening the bed would faine haue lodged with mee But had I beene a Sardanapalus or a Heliogobalus I thinke that either the great trauell ouer the Mountaines had tamed me or if not her beautie could neuer haue mooued me The best parts of her were that her breath was as sweet as sugar-carrion being very well shouldered beneath the waste and as my Hostesse tolde mee the next morning that shee had changed her Maiden-head for the price of a Bastard not long before But howsoeuer shee made such a hideous noyse that I started out of my sleepe and thought that the Deuill had beene there but I no sooner knewe who it was but I arose and thrust my dumbe beast out of my chamber and for want of a locke or a latch I staked vp my doore with a great chaire Thus hauing escaped one of the seuen deadly sinnes at Breekin I departed from thence to a Towne called Forfard and from thence to Dundee and so to Kinghorne Burnt Iland and so to Edinbrough where I stayed eight dayes to recouer my selfe of falles and bruises which I receiued in my trauell in the high-land mountainous Hunting Great welcome I had shewed mee all my stay at Edinbrough by many worthy Gentlemen namely olde Master George Todrigg Master Henry Leuingston Master Iames Henderson Master Iohn Maxwell and a number of others who suffered me to want no wine or good cheere as may be imagined Now the day before I came from Edinbrough I went to Leeth where I found my long approoued and assured good friend Master Beniamin Iohnson at one Master Iohn Stuarts house I thanke him for his great kindnesse towards mee for at my taking leaue of him hee gaue mee a piece of golde of two and twentie shillings to drinke his health in England And withall willed mee to remember his kinde commendations to all his friendes So with a friendly farewell I left him as well as I hope neuer to see him in a worse estate for hee is amongst Noble-men and Gentlemen that knowes his true worth and their owne honours where with much respectiue loue hee is worthily entertained So leauing Leeth I return'd to Edinbrough and within the port or gate called the Netherbowe I discharged my pockets of all the money I had and as I came pennilesse within the walles of that Citie at my first comming thither so now at my departing from thence I came monesse out of it againe hauing in my company to conuey mee out certaine Gentlemen amongst the which was Master Iames Acherson Laird of Gasford a Gentleman that brought mee to his house where with great entertainement hee and his good wife did welcome me On the morrowe he sent one of