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A49620 The voyage of Italy, or, A compleat journey through Italy in two parts : with the characters of the people, and the description of the chief towns, churches, monasteries, tombs, libraries, pallaces, villas, gardens, pictures, statues, and antiquities : as also of the interest, government, riches, force, &c. of all the princes : with instructions concerning travel / by Richard Lassels, Gent. who travelled through Italy five times as tutor to several of the English nobility and gentry ; never before extant. Lassels, Richard, 1603?-1668.; S. W. (Simon Wilson) 1670 (1670) Wing L465; ESTC R2418 265,097 737

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haue been twenty three in all haue hartened and aduanced this work that the prime Architects of the world Sangalla Bramante Baldassere Buonarota Giacomo della Porta Giouani Fontana Carlo Maderno and now Caualiero Bernino haue brought it on to this perfection that the whole Church it self is nothing but the Quintessence of wit and wealth strained into a religious designe of making a hansome house to God and of fulfilling the diuine oracle which promised that magna erit gloria domus istius nouissimae plusquam primae Going at last out of this Church and summing vp in my thoughts all the rarityes I had seen in it I began to think of Ammonius a holy primitiue Saint and afterwards Bishop in the Council of Sardis of whom it s written that comeing to Rome with S. Athanasius he desired to see nothing there but S. Peters Church and knew not the way to any place els I think that if this good man had seen S. Peters Church as it is now he would neuer haue cared for seing any thing els in the world and would euen haue forgot his way home too Neare to the Church of S. Peter stands the Vatican Pallace where the Popes use to winter To describe it to you all at length would take me vp too much time nor indeed is it fit for me to dwell there I will therefore passe through it quickly and rather point you out what 's to be seen there then paint you out in words what I saw there 1. From the Church of S. Peter you ascend into this Pallace by an easy stately pair of stairs capable of ten men a brest These stairs render you vp at the great Hall called Sala Regia because the Pope receiueth here Embassadors of Kings in their Embassies of state It is beautifyed with rare pictures in a great volume as that of the Emperour Frederick kissing the Popes foot of the hand of Gioseppe del Saluiati Garfagnino That of the Ligue in France that of Coligni that of the Pope condemning heresy That of the Pope returning from Auignon are all of the hand of Georgio Vassari That of the Emperour Charles the Great signing the Brief of the donation is of the hand of Thadeo Zuccari that of the battle of Lepanto with the picture of Fayth at the side of it is of the hand of Donato Formello 2. This great Hall stands between two Chappels the Paulina and the Sista In the Paulina is seen a rare picture of the crucifying of S. Peter by Michel Angelo The roof of it also was rarely painted by Federico Zuccari but the smoke of the candles vpon Manday Thursday when this Chappel serues for the Sepulcher hath so defaced these pictures that a farre worse hand would haue serued there 3. The Chappel of Sisto is that in which the Pope holds Capella vpon certain dayes and were all the Cardinals interuene In the end of this Chappel vpon the wall is painted the last Iudgement by Michel Angelo a peece famous ouer all the world The green garments of S. Katharine and the ●ead of S. Biagio are of the painting of Daniel of Volterra who was presently set a worke to make those garments when the Pope had giuen expresse order that this rare picture should be defaced because of some nakedneess in it Vpon great dayes this Chappel is hung with a rare sute of hangings of the designe of Raphael Vrbin wrought with gold and silk containing the Acts of S. Peter and S. Paul 4. Beinde this Chappel stands the Popes Sacristy a place scarce knowne to strangers and therefore seldome seen by them though very well wroth the seeing It s kept alwayes by a Prelat who is alwayes an Augustin Fryar and a Bishop and called Monsignor Sacrista In authors of high times we finde mention of this officer vnder the name of Cimiliarcha or chief Sacristan Here I saw rare Church ornaments for the Popes vse These in particular I cannot let passe without mentioning The cope of saint Syluester Pope thirteen hundred yeares a goe The neat Chasuble of cloth of tyssue with the pictures of the ministring the seauen Sacrements all embrodered in it in silk and gold so rarely that the late Lord Mareshal of England Tho. Earle of Arundel got leaue to haue it painted out and so much the more willingly because it had been giuen to the Pope by King Henry the VIII a little before his Schisme Then the incomparable sutes of ornaments for Priest Deacon and Subdeacon to be vsed in high Masse which were giuen by King Sebastian of Portugal and set all ouer with pearle and these pearles were the first that came out of the Indyes and were in all eight hundred pound weight of pearle The other rare things here were the Head of S. Laurence which I saw neare at hand through a crystal a peece of the spunge in which the Jewes gaue our Sauiour gall to drink the Camisia of S. Prisca a primitiue Saint martyred in it 1400 yeares ago the Crucifix in which is set vnder a crystal a peece of the Holy Crosse carued with the passion of our Sauiour in it a thorne of our Sauiours crowne of thornes which belongd to Pius Quintus a crosse set with Diamans and Pearles which the Pope wears at his brest in great functions a great ring which he also weareth in such functions it s set with a fair Saphir and four great pearles a fair Crucifix enameld and beset with store of pearle and Iewels the Popes Pallium which he wears in great functions the fistula or pipe of gold wherwith the Pope receiues the consecrated blood of our Sauiour in the Chalice vpon great dayes the rare Chalices of gold set with pearle and yet more pretious for their workmanship then for their matter the great Chalice of gold into which the Cardinals put their written Votes in chuseing the Pope by scrutiny the fiue triple crownes called Regni four wereof are set thick with pretious stones and pearle of great value and therfore ordinarily kept in the Castle Angelo two miters of the same richness the chrystal Pixe in which the Blessed Sacrament is kept in the Sepulcher vpon Manday Thursday in fine the booke of the Ghospels painted in miniature by the famous Giulio Glorio for whose first picture here of the last Iudgement Paulus Tertius sent him fifteen hundred pistols as Monsignor Sacrista assured me 5. Passing from hence through the Sala Regia againe I was led into the great roome hard by where the Pope washeth the feet of thirteen Pilgrims vpon Manday Thursday and then giueth euery one of then a great Meddal of Gold with four pistols and an other of syluer 6. Thence I was led into the open gallerie which looketh vpon the court I meane the second lodge for there are three such open galleries where the histories of the Bible are painted most curiously in the roof of it by prime masters That of Adam and the
each hand both which are full of curious bookes both manuscripts and printed bookes diuers of which were showne me with great ciuility by Monsignor Holstenius then keeper of this Library whom I had formerly knowne The chief of these bookes were these A vast Hebrew Bible too heauy for any man to lift vp An ancient copie of the Septuagints translation in Greek after which the Bible hath been printed both in Rome and London The Acts of the Apostles in Greek curiously written in golden letters The Ghospel written by S. Chrysostoms owne hand An Hebrew Bible written in sheets of parchment pasted to one another and rowled vp hence the word Volumen for a booke A little booke written in barke of trees hence the word folium for a leaf in a booke Certain old Roman Table bookes A China Tablebooke of wood in which they wrote with a pointed steele A curious China booke all in Hieroglyphs and folded vp in many folds our Purchas in his curious nauigations hath both printed and deciphered it Polidor Virgils history of England written with his owne hand An old booke of Sermons in Latin in whose margin S. Thomas of Aquin had made notes with his owne hand An old Virgil with the pictures of the history in old painting An old Terence written twelue hundred yeares a goe and the ancientest that euer Politian saw as he testifyeth vnder his owne hand in the inside of the couer of this booke Baronnius his Annals in his owne hand writeing The rare quotations out of the ancient Fathers painfully and faithfully collected out of the best copies by learned Cardinal Sirleto in the time of the Council of Trent and sent by him weekly by the Poste from Rome to the Fathers in the Council who proceeded to their definitions by the ancient tradition of the Church found so plainly and vnanimously in those Fathers Those quotations make six Volumes in folio and this was it which out aduersaryes call the sending downe of the Holy Ghost to Trent in a cloak-bag when it was onely the seding downe of these faithfull testimonies of the Tradition of the Church gathered out of the most ancient and authentick copies The letters of Henry the VIII of England to Anne Bolen his mistresse then in his owne hand writeing Some in English some in French but all amatory It is easy to imagine them written by him if you compare the hand-writing of these letters with those two Verses written by the Kings owne hand in the frontispice of the following Booke to wit The booke which the sayd Henry wrotte against Martin Luther and dedicated it by a couple of Latin verses written with is owne hand in the Frontispice of it to Pope Leo the tenth which booke purchased to King Henry the honorable title of defender of the faith Then I was showne the Library of the Duke of Vrbin who dyeing without heires male bequeathed his Library to the Vatican Library here In this I saw many rare manuscripts written in parchment and painted in miniature especialy that booke in whose margins are painted by a rare hand and wonderfull diligence all the insects in nature in their liuely colours and true resemblance Ouer against this Library they shewed me in the same roome the Library of Heidelberg sent to Rome by the Duke of Bauaria after he had dispossessed the Elector Frederick Prince Palatin of Rhein of his country as well as of the kingdome of Bohemia which he had seazed on at the instigation of Bethleem Gabor and others See the Mercure François They shewed me here among diuers other bookes the booke of designes of the sayd Prince Elector Palatin which he had designed being yong Happy Prince if he had not designed to himself an other mans crowne In the great roome of this Library there is an iron dore which leteth you into a more secret roome where the Registers of the Church of Rome are kept the keeper of which Registers was anciently called Chartularius an office much like to that in the Greek Church called Cartophylax In fine I was showne here diuers letters of great persons and Princes written with their owne hands as of S. Charles Boromaeus to Cardinal Sirleto who had had a hand in his education of Queen mary of England of King Philip the second of Spayne hir husbād stileing himselfe King of Spayne England and France of Francis the First of France of Margaret of Parma that Gouerned Flanders when it reuolted of President Vargas a Spaniard and a great statesman in Flanders but no great Latinist as it appeared by his answer to the Doctors of Louain petitioning him in Latin for their priuiledges when he se sayd Non curamus vostros priuilegios Mali faxerunt templa boni nihil faxerunt contra ergo debent omnes patibulari the tearmes of the expostulation being as harsh as the Conclusion of it and some old polite Orators had rather haue been hangd indeed then threatened in such bad Latin A little before I went out of this Library I sawe neere the dore the Statue of Hippolitus Bishop of Portua who liued 1400 yeares ago sitting in a chair of stone vpon which is cut in Greek letters the ancient Canon Paschalis vpon which Scaliger and others haue written It s a curious peece of learned antiquity and worthy to he taken notice of 16. Hauing seen the Library we were led on by the long Gallery mentioned before vnto the Beluedere were we descended into the Popes priuate garden full of orange trees fine walkes and fountains Here are three or four vnauoidable wetting places to those that are not acquainted with them Henc you goe downe to see the rare fountain of the iron ship In this garden I saw the Pineapple of brasse guilt which is as great as three men can fathom about and twice as high as the tallest man can reach Here also stand by it the two great Peacocks of brasse guilt which stood anciently vpon Scipio Affricanus his tombe and are some three or four yeards long 17. From hence we were led hard by to see the Beluedere of the Maschere which Michel Angelo called his Studie It s a squar Court sett with Orange trees in whose walls are great Niches with leaues to them of wood where the choyce statues of the world are conserued vnder lock and key and free from ill weather The chief statues here are these that of the riuer Nilus and that of Tyber both in cumbent postures That of Antinous minion of the Emperor Adrian it s of pure oriental marble and rarely cut that of Cleopatra that of Venus comeing out of a bath that of Commodus the Emperor that of Laocoon and his sonns inuolued about with serpents This statue of Laocoon is the master peece of sculpture That in the middle of the Court of Hercules without armes leggs or head is so rare a trunck that Michel Angelo professed
yeare It s vnder tho Emperors protection and it hath about thirty thousand souls in it Approching vnto it it looked like a pure low-country towne with its brick walls large ramparts set round with trees and deep moates round about the walls It hath eleuen bastions well garded by the townesmen and well furnished with Cannōs of a large sise The towne is three miles in compasse it hath thirty thousand muskets or half muskets in its Arsenal eight thousand pikes two thousand brest peeces of musket proof and store of great artillery The whole State for a need can arme eighteen thousand men of seruice and it hath about fiue hundred thousand French liures a yeare It was in this towne that Caesar Pompey and Crassus met and agreed among themselues that all things in Rome should passe as they pleased The chief things to be seen here are The Cathedral called S. Martins whose Bishop hath the ensignes of an Archbishop to wit the vse of the Pallium and the Crosse and whose Canons in the Quire weare a rochet and Camail and miters of silk like Bishops 2. The towne house or Senate house where the Confaloniero liues dureing the time of his charge 2. The Church of S. Frediano belonging to the Canon Regulars where in a Chappel on the left hand is the Tombe of S. Richard King of England who dyed here in his pilgrimage to Rome 4. The Augustins Church where is seen a hole where the Earth opened to swallow vp a blaspheming gamester Of this towne was Pope Lucius the III. the two famous men of this towne the one for soldiery the other for learning were braue Castrucio and Sanctes Pagninus a great Hebrician There are fiue townes more belonging to Lucca to wit Ca-magior Viareggia Montignoso Castilione and Minucciano From Lucca we went to Pisa some ten miles off This was once the head towne of a florishing Republick and then the Numantia of Florence and scorning its yoke but now it croucheth to it It stands in no very good ayre and therfore hath been vexed with diuers plagues The grasse in the streets of this Vniuersity read me this lecture and I beleeued it Wherupon I resolued to stay here one day onely in which time I saw 1. The Domo whose Canons officiate in Scarlate like Cardinals This is a neat Church for structure and for its three brazen dores historyed with a fine basso rilieuo It s built after la maniera Tedescha a fashion of building much vsed in Italy four or fiue hundred yeares ago and brought in by Germans or Tedeschi sayth Vasari 2. Neare to the Domo stands if leaning may be called standing the bending Tower so artificialy made that it seems to be falling and yet it stands firme Ruituraque semper stat mirum moles 3. On the other side of the Domo is the Campo Santo a great square place cloistered about with a low cloister curiously painted It● called the Campo Santo because therein is conserued the Holy earth brought from Hierusalem in 50 Gallies of this Republick an 1224. These Gallies were sent by the Republick of Pisa to succour the Emperour Aenobarbe in the Holy Land but hearing of his death when they came thither they returned home againe loaden with the earth of the Holy Land of which they made this Campo Santo 4. Some good Colledges there are but vnfrequented then by reason of a late plague none running faster from the plague then schollers especialy when it comes neare to the schools 5. The publick Library is much enriched with the accession of Aldus Manutius his Library 6. The garden of Simples may be rare but wee not vnderstanding this hearbe language hastened to the house of the Knights of S. Steuen 7. This is the onely Order of Knighthood that I perceiued in Florence and it s very common They weare a red crosse of satin vpon their cloaks and professe to fight against the Turks For this purpose they haue here a good house and maintenance Their Church is beautifyed without with a hansome faciata of white marble and within with Turkish Ensignes and diuers Lanterns of capitanesse gallies In this house the Knights liue in common and are well maintained In Their Treasory they shew you a great buckler all of Pearle and Diamonds wonn in a battle against the Turks Indeed bucklers of Diamonds do but show our enemyes where we are and what they may hope for by killing vs. They haue in their Cancellaria a Catalogue of those Knights who haue done notable seruice against the Turks which serues for a powerfull exhortation to their successors to do and dy brauely In fine these Knights may marry if they will and liue in their owne particular houses but many of them choose celibate as more conuenient for braue soldiers wifes and children being the true impedimenta exercitûs Heretofore during the great disorders of the Guelfs and the Gibelins Anno 1282 this towne was gouerned by Vgolin a proud man who ruled here despotically This man inuiteing one day all his friends to a great feast began in the midst of it to brag that nothing was wanting to him yes sayd on of his best friends because on who flattered him not ther 's one thing yet wanting to thee Vgolin to-wit the Anger of God which is not farre from thee And it proued true for presently after the Gibelins russhing into the pallace of Vgolin chief of the Guelfs killed in his sight one of his sonns and his nephew and taking him with two other of his sonns and three nephews they shut him vp in a strong Tower and threw the Keys into Arno where the poore man that braged euen now in a feast dyed soon after of hunger hauing first seen his children and nephews dye of hunger in his armes A rare example to teach proud men that ther 's often but one day between a powerfull man and a poore man between a great Feast and a great Fast Here in Pisa were called two Councils the one 1409. the other 1511. From Pisa we went to Ligorne Portus Liburnus in Latin through a pleasant forrest This is the onely hauen the Great Duke hath and the mouth which letteth in that food which fatteneth this State We stayd not long here the season pressing vs to be gone and this towne being soone seen For the towne it s but little yet one of the neatest hauen townes a man can see Heretofore it was not sufferable by reason of the bad ayre but since Ferdinan the first built it a new and dryed vp the neighboring Fenns gathering much of the water into a cut channel which goes from hence to Pisa and carryes great boats the towne is twice as wholesome and thrice as rich as it was The things I saw in this towne were these 1. The Mole which shutts vp the hauen 2. The Lanterne which with seauen lights guides in ships in the night 3. The Hauen it self
Holy Haueing sayd thus much ●f the title of Rome I will now make my Reader better acquainted with her by describing the particularyties which I obserued here And that I may not ramble in writeing of Rome as most men do in visiting of it I will begin at the Bridg called now Ponte Angelo and from thenc make the whole gyro of the Citie in order Arriuing then at the Bridg called anciently Pons Aelius because it was built by the Emperor Aelius Adrianus but now called Ponte Angelo because it was vpon this Bridg that S. Gregory the Great saw an Angel vpon the Moles Adriani sheathing his sword after a great plague here wee saw the stately new decoration of Iron worke with the twelue Marble statues set vpon it by this present Pope Clement the IX and looking downe into the riuer on the left hand wee saw the ruines of the Triumphal bridg This bridg was called the Triumphal Bridge because over it Triumphs were accustomed to passe anciently to the Capitol This made it so proud that it scorned that any rustiks or country fellowes should passe ouer it and got a Decree of the Senate for that purpose But pride will haue a fall and the proud Triumphal Bridg hath got such a great one that ther 's but iust so much of it left as to shew where it was once so true is the saying of Ausonius Mors etiam saxis nominibusque venit At first the Romans were modest enough in their Triumphs as in all other things hence Camillus was content with four white horses in his Chariot but afterwards luxe and excesse banishing out of the Citie old modesty they began to striue who should be the most vaine in this point Hence Pompey was drawne in triumph by four Elephants Mark-Antony by four Lyons Nero by four Hermaphrodites which were all four both horses and mares Heliogabulus by four Tygers Aurelianus by six staggs and Firmicus by eight Austridges At the end the Ponte Angelo stands the Castel Angelo so called because as I sayd before S. Gregory in a solemne Procession during the plague saw an Angel vpon the top of Moles Adriani sheathing his sword to signify that God's anger was appeased Before this Miracle happened it was called Moles Adriani because the Emperour Adrian was buryed here It was built anciently in a round forme of vast stones going vp in three rowes or storyes lesser and lesser till you came to the top where stood mounted that great pineapple of brass guilt which we see now in the garden of the Beluedere Round about it were set in the wall great marble pillars and round about the seueral storyes stood a world of Statues This Moles being found a strong place Bellisarius put men into it to defend it against the Gothes and they defended themselues in it a great while by breaking the Statues in peeces and throwing them vpon the heads of the Gothes that besieged them Since that time Diuers Popes haue turned it into a formal Castle Boniface the VIII Alexander the VI and Vrban the VIII haue rendered it a regular Castle with fiue strong bastions store of good Cannons and a constant garison maintened in it From this Castle I saw diuers times these Fortifications and below diuers great peeces of artillary made of the brasse taken out of the Pantheon and they shewed vs one great Cannon which was made of the brazen nayles onely that nayled that brasse to the walls of the Pantheon the length and forme of those nayles is seen vpon that Cannon to shew vnto posterity how great they were with these words vpon it ex cla●is trabialibus Porticus Agrippae In this Castle are kept prisoners of State the 5 milions layd vp there by Sixtus Quintus the Popes rich triple crownes called Regni and the chief Registers of the Roman Church From the top also of this Castle you see distinctly the long Corridor or Gallery which runns from the Popes Pallace of the Vatican to this Castle for the Popes vse in time of danger It was made by Pope Alexander the VI. and vsed by Clment the VII who by it got safe into the Castle from the fury of the German Soldiers who being many of them Lutherans swore they would eat a peece of the Pope From hence entring into the Borgo we went towards S. Peters Church and in the way stept into the Church of the Carmelits called Santa Maria Transpontina were in a Chappel on the left hand as you enter are seen two pillars of stone enchased in wood to the which S. Peter and S. Paul were tyed when they were whipped before their death according to the Romans custome Here 's also the Head of S. Basil the Greek Father surnamed the Great Here 's also a curious picture of S. Barbara in the Vault by Caualier Gioseppe Going on from hence we came presently to the Pallace of Campeggi so called because it belonged to Cardinal Campeggi the Popes Legat in England to whom Henry the VIII gaue it Heretofore it belonged to the English Embassadors and was one of the best in Rome both for being neare the Popes Pallace and also for that it was well built by famous Bramante It belongs now to Cardinal Colonna Ouer against it stands a little Piazza with a fine fountaine and ioyning to it a little Church called San Jacomo Scozza Caualli in which vnder an Altar on the right hand I saw the stone vpon which Abraham offered to sacrifice his Sonne Isaac and vnder an other Altar on the left hand the Stone vpon which our Sauiour was placed when he was presented in the Temple Both these were brought or sent to Rome by Helen mother of the Emperor Constantin the Great Presently after you come to the Piazza of S. Peter built round about with a noble Portico of free-stone borne vp by four rowes of stately round pillars vnder which not onely the Procession vpon Corpus Christi day marcheth in the shade but also all people may go dry and out of the sun in sommer or winther vnto S. Peters Church or the Vatican Pallace This Portico is built in an oual forme and fetcheth in the great Piazza which is before S. Peters Church and therefore can be no lesse then half a mile in compasse This noble structure was begun by Alexander the VII and half of it finished and the other half is now almost finished I neuer saw any thing more stately then this The number of the pillars and of the statues on the top I do not justly remember In the midst of this Piazza stands the famous Guglia which was brought out of Egypt in the time of the old Romans and dedicated to Augustus Caesar and Tiberius as the words vpon it import It lay hid long in Neros Circus which was there where now S. Peters Sacristy is and at last Sixtus Quintus hauing proposed great rewards to him that would venture to set it
Maria Trasteuere the first Church built in Rome sayth Baronius and built there where anciently stood the Tabernae meritoriae where the maimed soldiers receiued their pittance dayly The Guilt roof and the two rowes of marble pillars do much beautify this Church Vnder the High Altar is yet seen the place where oyle yssued out as from a Fountain a little before our Sauiours birth as denounceing his birth to be at hand who was to be called Christus that is annointed In this Church lye buryed Cardinal Hosius a most learned Trent Father and Cardinal Campegius the Popes Legate in England in Henry the VIII time You see here the stone that was tyed about the neck of S. Calixtus Pope when he was throwne into a Well Here also you see great round stones which where hung at the fee● of the Martyrs to torment them The Conuent of Franciscan Fryer● called S. Francesco in Ripa Grand● is hard by where I saw the Chamber where great S. Francis lodged when he liued in Rome It s now turned into a Chappel In the Church there is an excellent picture of Piety made by Caraccio Here in the Church is the tombe of Beata Ludouica Mathei of the the third order of S. Francis I tooke the Ripa grande in my way and saw there the boates of marchandise which come to Rome from Ligorne Giuità Vechia Naples and other places and disembark their goods here From the Ripa I went to S. Cicilies Church built where her house was and where she was put to death for the Christian religion Vnder the High Altar of this Church is the tombe of this primitiue Saint with her statue in a couchant posture and iust as her body was found in Clement the VIII time wrapt vp in vayls stayned with blood and couered with a robe of gold The neat decoration before the High Altar with the syluer lamps burning before the Tombe of this Saint was the foundation of Cardinal Sfondrati At the end of this Church as you come in are seen yet the stoues in which S. Cicily was shut vp in her owne house to be stifled but that failing she was beheaded The stoues are yet entire and shewing the manner of the ancient stoues In the Church portch I found the Tombe of one Adam an English Bishop of London and Cardinal of this tittle who dyed in Rome an 1397. it hath these verses vpon it Artibus iste pater famosus in omnibus Adam Theologus summus Cardinalisque erat Anglia cui patriam titulum dedit ista Beatae Aedes Caeciliae morsque suprema Polum Not farre from this Church stands S. Chrysogonus his Church a neat Church repayred some yeares ago by Cardinal Burghesi The four pillars of the High Altar looke as if they were of sand and cristal petrifyed together On the left hand of the wall neare the great dore lyes buryed Robert Archbishop of York and titular of this Church but this was all I could learne out of the Tombstone Hauing thus wandered ouer the Trasteuere I made towards the I le of S. Bartholomew in which stands a good Hospital and a Conuent of Franciscans in whose Church reposeth vnder the High Altar in a faire porphyrie Tombe the body of S. Bartholmew Apostle This Ile was anciently called Insula Tiberina and it was first made by the corne of Tarquinius Superbus which being after his ejection out of the City pluckt vp by the rootes and throwne into the riuer by reason of the quantity of earth that stuck to the rootes stopped here where the water was low and this stoppage once begun all the mud of the riuer came afterwards to stop here too and so in time to forme a little I le in the midst of the riuer Going out of the I le by the bridge of four heads anciently called Pons Fabricius which ioynes this I le with the City I looked downe the riuer on my right hand to see the Pons Sublicius which Cocles alone defended against an army till the bridge was cut downe behind him which he perceiuing leapt into the riuer armed and swome safe to his fellow Citizens who were as glad to see him come off safe as to finde themselues safe It was called Pons Sublicius from the word Sublica in Latin which signifies great beams of wood of which it was made it was afterwards built of stone by Aemilius From this bridge the wicked Emperor Heliogabalus was throwne into the riuer and drowned with a great stone about his neck No sooner was I ouer this bridge but I saw on my left hand the great back dore of the Jewry for here the Iews liue all together in a corner of the towne and are locked vp euery night I entred into their Synagogues here which they call their schooles where they meet vpon Saturdays and sing and pray I wondered at first that they had learned no more manners in these their schooles then to enter into them to pray without either puting of hats lifting vp eyes or bending of knees to the Great Iehoua whom they rather feare then loue Moses going to him put of this shooes and I expected that these men should at least haue put of their hatts at the entrance into their Synagogues but they are Archclownes and their fowle towels at the entrance into their Synagogues told me as much I once saw a circumcision but it was so painfull to the child that it was able to make a man heartily thank God that he is a Christian And realy If the little child could speak and wish I beleeue he would wish him selfe the greatest curse in the world and to be a woman rather then a man vpon such termes I saw also a marriage here performed with many ceremonyes Returning out of the Jewry by the same gate I entred I saw on my left hand the Pallace of Princ Sauelli its built vpon the ruines of the Theater of Marcellus built by Augustus in honour of his Nephew Marcellus it was capable of fourscore thousand men Passing on I came to an ancient Church called Santa Maria in Cosmedin or in Schola Graeca where S. Austin before his conuersion taught Rhetorick In the portch of this Church stands a great round stone cut into the face of a man with a great wide mouth commonly called La bocca della Verità The mouth of Truth but this not being affirmed by the Mouth of truth I dare not beleeue it I rather beleeue it serued in some old building for a gutter spout I know truth may speake lowd and haue a wide mouth but he that takes euery wide mouth for the mouth of Truth is much mistaken The next Church I came to was Santa Maria Egyptiaca it was the Temple of the Sun and Iupiter This Church is neatly adorned with curious chanelled pillars It belongs to the Armenians who haue an Hospital also here
the Iles of Corfu Cephalonia and Zante Candia or the I le of Creta belongs to them by due The kingdome of Cyprus also is pretended to by them and by it and Candy whose two crownes they shew vs in the Treasor Venice is stiled Serenissima The kingdome of Cyprus came to the Venetians by Katherine Cornaro who was made heire of it by her son the King thereof who dyed yong and with out yssue about the yeare 1438. The stoty is this Katherine was daughter of Marco Cornaro and neece of Andrew Cornaro two noblemen of Venice Andrew was sent Auditore Generale into the Kingdome of Cyprus in the time of Iames King of that Iland and helpt him to many thousand crownes where by he setled his tottering crowne One day as the King was talkeing familiarly with him he let fall whether by chance or designe a little picture in miniature of a Very hansome Lady The King curious to see it called for it ciuilly and viewing it well fell hugely in loue with the Original of it which Andrew assured him to be farre hansomer then the copie and withall added that if his Maiesty liked her she was his Neece and that therefore he offered her freely to him for his wife with all the money he had already lent him and a hundred thousand crownes more The King bit willingly at these two baits beauty and Money and was not quiet till he had marryed her Of her he had but one sonn whom dyeing he left under his mothers protection but he dyeing also not long after left his mother heire of the kingdome and she at her death left this crowne and kingdome to the Venetians by Will and Guift This whole history I saw painted in the Pallace of Cornaro by the hand of Paulo Veron●se As fo● the strong holds which the Venetians possesse in Italy they are these Crema Bergamo Brescia Pesch●●ra Chiosa and Palma Nuoua in Fruth This last is one of the best places in Europe Is hath nine royal bastions eighteen caualiers which command all the neighboring campagnia it hath di●ches of water about it thirty paces broad and twelue deep Its ramparts behinde the wall are high and couering and they are alwayes fringed with a hundred peéces of Cannon and ready to receiue six hundred more which are alwayes in its magazin ready upon all occasions And for men and armour as the great Arsenal in Venice hath alwayes armes in readyness for a hundred thousand men so this State being peopled with three millions of men would easily finde three or four hundred thousand men of seruice and a hundred Gallyes yet their ordinary militia is but of fourscore thousand foot and some 6000 Horse and about thirty Gallyes As for their Riches though their ordinary reuenues before these late warrs with the Turk exceeded not four millions yet now they spurre themselues and the country● vp to excessiue summs Few dye but they bequeath something to such a Christian seruice as this warre is Besides this the taxes are much augmented and seizures forfetures more narrowly looked into to help publick expences In fine besides the great trading which Venice driues Aleppo alone bringing in some yeares four millions of gold the Venetiant haue found out a Very compendious way to rayse in one quarter of an houre and by one deash of a pen fifty hundred thousand crownes to help themselues withall at a dead lift and incommodate no man This they did An 1646 when fifty rich familyes in Venice gaue to the State a hundred thousand crownes a peéce to be made noble Venetians The like course they took to rayse money about a hundred yeares ago when they were set vpon by most of the Princes of Europe at once As for their Religion its Roman Catholick and they haue neuer changed it since the begining of their Republick Hence M r. Raymond in his Mercurio Italico page 188. sayth truly that Venite hath this property aboue all other States that she is a Virgin and more from her first infancy Christian hauing neuer yet fell from her Principles either in Gouerment or Religion It began to be built the Very same yeare that S. Augustin dyed as Baronius obserues As for the Interest of this Republick they are now well with the Emperor not out with Spayne no● too secure of his Friendship kinde with the French as long as they keep out of Italy well affected to England and iust friends with the Pope Now for the particulars which I saw in Venice they were these 1. The men Themselues here who looked like men indeed and as a Philosopher anciently sayd that when he came from Corinth to Sparta he seemed to come from horses to men so me thought when I came from France to Venice I came from boyes to men For here I saw the hansomest the most sightly the most proper and graue men that ever I saw any where else They weare alwayes in the towne I speake of the noblemen a long black gowne a black cap knit with an edgeing of black wooll about it like a fringe an ancient and manly weare which makes them looke like Senators Their hair is generaly the best I euersaw any where these little caps not presing it downe as our hats do Perywigs are here forbid Vnder their long gownes which fly open before they haue hansome black sutes of rich stuffs with stockins and garters and spanith leather shoos neatly made In a word I neuer saw so many proper men together nor so wise as I saw dayly there walking vpon the Piazza of S. Mark I may boldly say that I saw there fiue hundred gentlemen walking together euery day euery one of which was able to play the Embassador in any Princes Court of Europe But the misery is that we strangers cannot walk there with them and talk with them but must keep out of their way and stand a loof off The reason is this This state as all Republicks are being hugely gealous of her liberty and preseruation forbids her Noble men and Senators to converse with Forrain Embassadors or any man that either is an actual seruant or follower of an Embassador or hath any the least relation to any Princes Agent with out expresse leaue and this vpon payne of being suspected as a Traitor and condignly punished This makes them shy to all strangers not Knowing what relation they may have to some forain states man of Agent For the same reason they will not let their wifes visit the wife 's of forrain Embassadors resideing in Venice for feare of being suspected to commit treason by proxie They haue in the wall of the Pallace in diuers places certain wide mouths of marble stone ouer which I found written these words Denuncie secrete Priuate informations into which they cast secretly papers of accusations by which they accuse secretly any officer or nobleman whom they durst not accuse publickly This maKes men stand hugely vpon