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A07834 An itinerary vvritten by Fynes Moryson Gent. First in the Latine tongue, and then translated by him into English: containing his ten yeeres trauell through the tvvelue dominions of Germany, Bohmerland, Sweitzerland, Netherland, Denmarke, Poland, Jtaly, Turky, France, England, Scotland, and Ireland. Diuided into III parts. The I. part. Containeth a iournall through all the said twelue dominions: shewing particularly the number of miles, the soyle of the country, the situation of cities, the descriptions of them, with all monuments in each place worth the seeing, as also the rates of hiring coaches or horses from place to place, with each daies expences for diet, horse-meate, and the like. The II. part. Containeth the rebellion of Hugh, Earle of Tyrone, and the appeasing thereof: written also in forme of a iournall. The III. part. Containeth a discourse vpon seuerall heads, through all the said seuerall dominions. Moryson, Fynes, 1566-1630. 1617 (1617) STC 18205; ESTC S115249 1,351,375 915

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Countrey Graced with Titles and Magistracy With his Learning he made Venice happy These things I say are in these Churches most remarkeable The second sextary on this side the channell vulgarly I l sestiero di Castello hath the name of the Castle Oliuolo which seated towards the sea may seeme to be diuided from the Citie yet it is ioyned thereto by a long bridge Of old it was a City by it selfe and therefore the Dukes Throne being established in the Iland Realto the Bishops seat was made here who is inuested by the Duke and was consecrated by the Patriarke of Grado till that being extinguished this was raised to the dignity of a Patriarke in the yeere 1450. In the Cathedrall Church of Saint Peter this is written vpon the Chappell in Latine Who ere thou be that approachest worship Within these grates of Iron the crosse is inclosed that is adorned with three haires of the beard of Christ with a naile the cup in which he drunke to his Disciples and with a peece of the true Crosse c. This Patriarcall seat hath two old pulpits of marble the monuments of the Bishops and Patriarkes which with the adioining Pallace of the Patriarkes are the most remarkeable things thereof In the Church of Iohn Baptist in Bragola many curious pictures the sepulcher of that Saint guilded ouer the Image of Christ the pictures of the lesse Altar especially that of Christ baptised that of Saint Hellen that of Christs resurrection and the liuely picture of Christ sitting with his Apostles at his last supper In the Church of Saint Mary Formosa this inscription is read Vincentius Capellus most skilful in Nauigation and Prefect of the Gallies nolesse praised of old who receiued signes of honour from Henry the seuenth King of Britany c. There vpon the great and very faire Altar the Images of the foure Euangelists and vpon the top that of Christs resurrection and of two Angels In the Church Saint Marina the statua on horsebacke erected by the Senate to Tadeo della volpe of Imola and the great Altar with the pillars of prophry In the Church of Saint Leone the Images of Saint Ierome of Christ at supper with his Disciples of Iohn the Euangelist and Saint Michaell all painted by the hands of most skilfull workemen In the Church of Saint Anthony foure most faire Altars in the second whereof the Image of Christ and in the third rich with excellent pillars the History of ten thousand Martyres painted and in the fourth the espousals of the blessed Virgin areal painted with singular Art and a foot statua erected by the Senate to Victor Pisanus In the Church of Saint Dominicke the library and pictures of the Altars In the Church of Saint Francis di Paola many things giuen vpon vow and hung vpon the wals In that of Saint Francis della vigna a very faire and stately Church the Altar of the Chappell belonging to the Family Grimani and the pictures brasen images of the same and in the Chappell of the Family Dandoli the picture of Saint Laurence martyred and in the Chappell of the Iustiniani being very rich the Images of the foure Euangelists and twelue Prophets In the Chappell of our Lady the monument of Marke Anthony Morosini Knight and Procurator famous in the warre which the French King Lewis the twelth made in Lombardy and thrice Ambassador from the State also the famous library of this monastery and the bels which they say were brought out of England after Queene Maries death In the Church of the Saints Iohn and Paul being one of the chiefe Churches the situation the architecture the pictures and the monuments of sixteene Dukes and another of Marke Anthony Bragadini who hauing defended the Iland Cyprus from the Turkes when they tooke it had his skinne fleed off by the command of the tyrant against his faith in the yeere 1571. Also three horsemens statuaes one to Leonardo de Prato Knight of Rhodes another to Nichola Orsino Count of Pitiglia both erected in the Church the third for greater honour erected in the market place to Bartholmeo Coleoni of Bergamo for his good seruice to the State in their Warres all three crected by the Senate Also a foot statua erected by the Senate to Deunys Naldo a most valiant Commander of their foote and the stately sepulcher of Iames de Cauallis and the Chappell of the Rossary magnificall in the architecture in rare marbles in the art of engrauers and excellent pictures especially that of Christ crucified In the Church of Saint Mary delle Virgini a Cloyster of Nunnes built by the Dukes and belonging to them by speciall right two marble sepulchers In the Church Saint Gioseppe the admirable monument of the Germani with admirable Images engrauen of the Duke Grimani created and his Dutchesse Morosini crowned and the like curiously wrought also the Image of Christ transfigured and another of Christ buried are the most remarkeable things And whereas the grauen images of this Church be of rare beauty they say that the chiefe of them were brought out of England after the death of Queene Mary In the Church of Saint Fustina a parish Church and yet the chiefe cloyster of Nunnes twice rebuilt by the family Morosini two curious statuaes of marble of Paros In the Church of the Holy sepulcher being a cloyster of Nunnes the sepulcher of Christ like that at Ierusalem of ophites and like stones In Saint Zachary a cloyster of Nunnes the pall of the Virgin painted another like it in the chappell the sepulcher or Altar vnder which the said Saint father to Iohn Baptist is laid and at the backe of the great Altar three sepulchers of Porphry and Ophyts the stones of the great Altar and the stately architecture of the Church are the things most remarkeable and the same cloyster hath great reuenues In generall vnderstand that the Churches are for the most part built of bricke and some few of free stone though they be so couered with Marbles and like stones as the bricke or free stone is scarce seene in the inside In the Priory of S t Iohn belonging of old to the Templary Knights now to the Knights of Rhodes or Malta it is remarkeable that the reuenues thereof be great and that the Priory is giuen by the Pope which Paul the third gaue to the Cardinall Saint Angelo his nephew for so they call their bastards whom Alexander the Cardinall of Farness succeeded yet not as Cardinall but as Knight of Malta and after him the Pope gaue it to the Cardinall Ascanio Colonna And the most remarkable things in the Church are the pall of the great Altar the supper of our Lord painted the picture of Christ speaking with the woman of Samaria and that of Herods banquet when he gaue Iohn Baptists head to Herodia The Greeke Church belongs to this sextary built in Rio di San ' Lorenzo The almes-house Saint Lazero feeds foure hundred or fiue hundred poore people
miles in a dirty way to Tortona where I paid one soldo for tribute as all passengers pay and seuen soldi for my dinner vpon reckoning Thence I walked after dinner in a dirty way fiue miles to Ponte Curon and further in a way somewhat fairer fiue miles to Voghera All this way in the Dutchy of Milan was in a most fruitfull plaine of corne with Elmes planted in the furrowes and vines growing vpon them and such is the way in all Lombardy and to the very City of Paduoa At Voghera I paid three reali for my supper and bed And here by chance I sound an English Merchant in the Inne who talking rashly did voluntarily without being examined whence he was professe himselfe to be a Dutchman and my selfe in disguised poore habit sitting at the lower end of the table and speaking to him in the Dutch language he was forced for want of the language to say that he was a Dutch-man but borne vpon the confines of France and knowing no no other language but the French whereupon I speaking to him in the French tongue he had as little skill in that as in the Dutch so as I might perceiue that he dissembled his Countrey and being not willing to presse him as hauing beene my selfe often forced in like sort to dissemble my Countrey did forbeare to speake any more to him in the Dutch or French tongue we began to discourse in Italian wherein he had spoken little before he vttered these words Iome ne repentiua that is Irepented my selfe therof whereas an Italian would haue said Iome ne pentiua by which fillable added by him I presently knew he was an English man Supper being ended he perceiuing himselfe to haue beene thus pressed by a poore fellow sitting at the lower end of the table tooke me for a spie and feared I should betray him and presently went into the stable where he commanded his seruant to saddle their horses that they might ride all night towards Genoa But I following him and boldly speaking English to him he was soone content to stay all night and to take me in my homely apparell for his bedfellow Hauing passed this night merrily I hired a horse the fourth day for foure cauellotti and rode eleuen miles to Bastia then I walked on foot seuen miles to Paula and being afoote-man I paid fiue foldi for my passage ouer the Riuer Po. This iourney hitherto was in a dirty way hauing plaine fields on both sides tilled after the foresaid manner of Lombordy and many rich pastures which are rare in all other parts of Italy Entering Paula I passed a stately bridge built ouer the Riuer 〈◊〉 which runnes from the West to the East and after sixe miles falleth into the Riuer Po. This bridge was two hundred walking prices long and so broad as two carts might passe together and was built of stone and couered ouer the head with a roofe with open aire on the sides supported with pillars The City lies in length from the East to the West and a new faire street diuides it in the middest by the bredth from the South to the North. On the West side of this street are two market places one greater then the other In the lesse is a 〈◊〉 called Regia Sole of mixt mettall vulgarly Dibronzo which some write to haue beene made with art magicke by the Emperour Anastasius for his own image and to haud beene placed by him vpon the pillar of the souldiers at Rauenna where he kept his Court and after Rauenna was taken by Charles the great that this Image being to be carried into France was by the way left here Others will haue it the statua of the Emperour Antoninus Pias for they are deceiued who thinke it the statua of Odoacer King of the Lombards who hath another statua in this market place On the 〈◊〉 West side of the foresaid new street towards the North-side is the Castle which Iohn Galiacius first Duke of Milon built and the same Dukes Library but almost voide of Bookes and in this Castle lies a Garison of Spaniards Neere that is the Church of Saint 〈◊〉 in a Chappol whereof is a stately Sepulcher in which they say the bones of that Saint were laid being brought thither out of the Iland Sardinia And this sepulcher is of marble curiously engrauen and worthy to be sought out and beheld There I did reade this inscription written in Latin vpon another sepulcher The French King Francis the first being taken by Caesars Army neere Pauia the foureteenth of Febru 〈…〉 among other Lords these were Lorayne Francis Duke of Lorayne Richard de la Poole Englishman and Duke of Suffolke banished by his tyrant King Henry the 〈◊〉 At last Charles Parken of Morley kinseman of the said Richard banished out of England for the Catholike Faith by Queene Elizabeth and made Bishop hereby the 〈◊〉 of Phillip King of Spaine ded out of his small meanes erect this Monument to him c. In a Cloyster of the same Church is a Sepulcher of this Charles Parken Bishop decensed in the yeere 〈◊〉 There is another Monument of 〈◊〉 King of Lombardy and another of the Bishop 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 with this inscription in Latin Most 〈◊〉 in the Greeke and Latin langues who being Consull was sent hither into bamshment And with these verses Hath Death 〈◊〉 ought my goodnes mounts the Skies Great is my same my worke liues in mens eyes On the East side of the saide new streete and towardes the North lies the Church of Saint Francis where is a monument of Baldus the Ciuill Lawyer and they shew his head of an extraordinarie bignesse Without the walles of the Citie on the North side is a piece of ground of some twentie miles circuit compasted with a wall in many places broken downe vulgarly called Il Barco that is the Park which Iohn Galiacius Duke of Milan walled in to keepe fallow Deare Hares and Conies but at this day it is diuided into Pastures and plowed fieldes On the furthest side of this Parke from the City is the place where the French King Francis the first was taken prisoner by the Army of the Emperour Charles the fifth Not farre thence is the Monastery of the Carthusians called la Certosa where the building of the Church the stones of Marble the engrauing the top couered with Leade part of the great Altar of Alablaster highly valued the Sepulcher of Iohn Galiacius first Duke of Millan and the reuenew of the Church exceeding three hundred thousand Crownes by the yeere deserue admiration The buildings of the Citie are of bricke and seeme to be of great antiquitie The Emperour Charles the fourth in the yeere 1361 at the instance of Galiacius the second gaue this Citie the priuiledges of an Vniuersitie The King of Spaine permits lewes to dwell here but they may not stay in Milan aboue twentie foure houres This Citie was the seate of the Kings of Lombardy whose old Castle is
higher and higher towards the West and consists especially of one broad and very faire street which is the greatest part and sole ornament thereof the rest of the side streetes and allies being of poore building and inhabited with very poore people and this length from the East to the West is about a mile whereas the bredth of the City from the North to the South is narrow and cannot be halfe a mile At the furthest end towards the West is a very strong Castle which the Scots hold vnexpugnable Camden saith this Castle was of old called by the Britaines Castle meyned agnea by the Scots The Castle of the Maids or Virgines of certaine Virgines kept there for the Kings of the Picts and by Ptolomy the winged Castle And from this Castle towards the West is a most steepe Rocke pointed on the highest top out of which this Castle is cut But on the North South sides without the wals lie plaine and fruitfull fields of Corne. In the midst of the foresaid faire streete the Cathedrall Church is built which is large and lightsome but little stately for the building and nothing at all for the beauty and ornament In this Church the Kings seate is built some few staires high of wood and leaning vpon the pillar next to the Pulpit And opposite to the same is another seat very like it in which the incontinent vse to stand and doe pennance and some few weekes past a Gentleman being a stranger and taking it for a place wherein Men of better quality vsed to sit boldly entred the same in Sermon time till he was driuen away with the profuse laughter of the common sort to the disturbance of the whole Congregation The houses are built of vnpolished stone and in the faire streete good part of them is of free stone which in that broade streete would make a faire shew but that the outsides of them are faced with wooden galleries built vpon the second story of the houses yet these galleries giue the owners a faire and pleasant prospect into the said faire and broad street when they sit or stand in the same The wals of the City are built of little and vnpolished stones and seeme ancient but are very narrow and in some places exceeding low in other ruiued From Edenborow there is a ditch of water yet not running from the Inland but rising ofsprings which is carried to Lethe and so to the Sea Lethe is seated vpon a creek of the Sea called the Frith some mile from Edenborow and hath a most commodious and large Hauen When Monsieur Dessy a Frenchman did fortifie Lethe for the strength of Edenborow it began of a base Village to grow to a Towne And when the French King Francis the second had married Mary Queene of the Scots againe the French who now had in hope deuoured the possession of that Kingdome and in the yeere 1560. began to aime at the conquest of England more strongly fortified this Towne of Lethe but Elizabeth Queene of England called to the succour of the Lords of Scotland against these Frenchmen called in by the Queene soone effected that the French returned into their Countrey and these fortifications were demolished Erom Leth I crossed ouer the Frith which ebs and flowes as high as Striuelin to the Village King-korn being eight miles distant and seated in the Region or Country called Fife which is a Peninsule that is almost an Iland lying betweene two creekes of the Sea called Frith and Taye and the Land yeelds corne and pasture and seacoales as the Seas no lesse plentifully yeeld among other fish store of oysters shel fishes and this Countrey is populous and full of Noblemens and Gentlemens dwellings commonly compassed with little groues though trees are so rare in those parts as I remember not to haue seene one wood From the said Village King-korn I rode ten very long miles to Falkeland then the Kings House for hunting but of old belonging to the Earles of Fife where I did gladly see I ames the sixth King of the Scots at that time lying there to follow the pastimes of hunting and hawking for which this ground is much commended but the Pallace was of old building and almost ready to fall hauing nothing in it remarkeable I thought to haue ridden from hence to Saint Andrewes a City seated in Fife and well known as an Vniuersity and the seate of the Archbishop But this iourney being hindred I wil onely say that the Bishop of Saint Andrewes at the intercession of the King of Scotland Iames the third was by the Pope first made Primate of all Scotland the same Bishop and all other Bishops of that Kingdome hauing formerly to that day beene consecrated and confirmed by the Archbishop of Yorke in England Likewise I purposed to take my iourney as farre as Striuelin where the King of the Scots hath a strong Castle built vpon the front of a steepe Rocke which King Iames the sixth since adorned with many buildings and the same hath for long time beene committed to the keeping of the Lords of Eriskin who likewise vse to haue the keeping of the Prince of Scotland being vnder yeeres And from thence I purposed to returne to Edenborow but some occasions of vnexpected businesse recalled me speedily into England so as I returned presently to Edenborow and thence to Barwicke the same way I came I adde for passengers instruction that they who desire to visit the other Counties of England and Ireland may passe from Edenborow to Carlile chiefe City of Comberland in England and so betweene the East parts of Lancashire and the West parts of Yorke and then through Darbyshire Nottinghamshire Warwickeshire Staffordshire and Chesshire may take their iourney to the City Westchester whence they shall haue commodity to passe the Sea to Dablin in Ireland and while they expect this passage they may make a cursory iourney into Flintshire and Caernaruenshire in Northwales to see the antiquities thereof or otherwise may goe directly to Holy Head and thence make a shorter cut to Dublyn in Ireland From Dublyn they may passe to see the Cities of the Prouince Mounster whence they may commodiously passe to the South parts of Wales and there especially see the antiquities of Merlyn and so taking their iourney to the West parts of England may search the antiquities of these seuerall Counties and easily find commoditie to passeinto the West parts of France And all this circuit beginning at London may with ordinary fauourable winds according to the season of the yeere be easily made from the beginning of March to the end of September Alwaies I professe onely to prescribe this course to such as are curious to search all the famous monuments and antiquities of England mentioned in Camdens compleat description thereof CHAP. VI. Of the manner to exchange Moneys into forraine parts and the diuers moneys of diuers parts together with the diuers measures of miles in sundry Nations most necessary
thinks their hose and ruffs are nothing lesse then comely For singing Art the Germans are said to houle the Flemmings to sing the Spaniards to sob the French to deskant the Italians to bleate Or otherwise The Italians to lament the Germans to crie the French to sing or otherwise The Spaniards weep the Italians sigh the English bleate like Goats the Germans bellow the French sing In speech the Germans are said to be simple the French ready the Italians subtle the Spaniards bragging Towards strangers the Germans are said to be vnhospitall I thinke otherwise the French Gentle the Spaniards flattering the Italians officious no doubt if you respect outward Offices In conuersation the Germans are said to bee imperious and intollerable I should say they are peaceable when they are sober and diuersly affected according to their seuerall natures when they are drunken the French mild I would rather say trifeling and cerimonious the Spaniards wary the Italians wise In hatred the Germans are said to be reuengefull I should grant that they bee cruell vpon Victory the French threatning sure they depose hatred when the bloud is cold the Spaniards obstinate the Italians secret no doubt and both they and the Spaniards great reuengers vpon any vnequall termes In businesse the Germans are said to be industrious the French carefull the Spaniards vigilant the Italians circumspect The Germans are said to bee singular in manuall Arts the French in Ciuility the Spaniards in Nauigation Italians in Learning But with fauour I should thinke the Italians were of old more famous for learning then now they are And howsoeuer the Spaniards had the fortune to find out the new world yet they must yeeld to the Brittans and Flemmings in the Art or at least the practice of Nauigation The Italians and Spaniards are said to be wise before the act the French in the act th Germans after the act Otherwise it is said in the Italian tongue I Spanuoli paieno sauij e sono pazzi I Francesi paieno pazzi e sono saueij l'Italiani paieno e sono sauij I Perrtughesi ue paieno ue sono sauij that is The Spaniards seeme wise and are fooles The French seeme fooles but are wise The Italians seeme and are wife The Portugals neither seeme nor are wise In France the Kings Treasurers in England Dukes are said to bee fatally miserable The Germans are said to inuade their enemies land like Lise that is slowly the French like Fleaes now biting now driuen away the Spaniards like Crablise sticking fast The Italian women are said to be giuen to the study of humanity the French to the learning of languages the Flemmings especially to the skil of languages the Germans to houshold affaires In apparrell the Italian women are said to be neate and graue onely the Venetians shew their necks and breasts naked the French light variable the Spaniards proud the Germans foolish perhaps because they weare extreme straight sleeues on their armes and guard one and the same gowne with many and diuers coloured guards the Flemmings fine no doubt they and especially the Brabanders excell for white and fine linnen and for generall comlinesse of their garments The Italian women are said to bee sharpe witted the Spanish blunt I should hardly thinke it the French simple I should rather say most crafty as most women are euery where the Germanes good mothers of family yea exceeding good The Spanish women are said to be painted the Italians somewhat lesse painted the French seldome painted and sometimes the Germaine Virgins neuer that I obserued except those of Prussen haue perhaps borowed this vice of the Moscouites their neighbours She is said to bee a faire woman that hath the face of an English woman the bodie from the neck to the nauell of the French the other parts of the Flemmish To this purpose are the verses in Latin Triginta haec habeat quae vult formosa vocari Foemina sic Helenam fama fuisse refert c. She must haue thirtie things that faire is counted In which they say faire Helena surmounted c. the rest I omit for the wantonnesse of them The Italians say in their tongue Queste cose sirichiedono nel'viandante l'occhio di Falcone per veder ' lontany l'orcechie d' Asino per vdir ' bene il viso di simia per essere pronto al riso la hocea di porcello per mangiar'd ' ogni cosa le Spalle di Camelo per portar ' some conpatienza le gambe di Ceruo per fuggir ' pericolo evn ' sacchone pien ' pieno di danari perche chi ha danari signore e chiamato That is in English These things are required in a Traueller the eye of a Hawke to see farre off the eares of an Asle to heare the least whispering the face of an Ape to bee ready to laugh in soothing the mouth of a Hogge to eate whatsoeuer is set before him the backe of a Camell to beare burthens patiently the legge of a Hart to flie from danger a huge great purse top full of gold because he that hath mony is called Lord We in England vulgarly say that a Traueller to Rome must haue the backe of an Asse the belly of a Hogge and a conscience as broad as the Kings high way The Italians say Cinque hore dorme vn ' viandante Sette vn ' studiante noue ogni furfante A Traueller fiue howers doth craue For sleepe a Student seuen will haue And nine sleepes euery idle knaue The Italians aduise a Traueller Ch' il suo cauallo sia gouernato d'amico macaualcato danemico That he should meate and dresse his horse like a friend but ride him like an enemie The Italian Trauellers say Da l'hoste nuouo da la putana vecchia Die ciguarda From a new host and an old Harlot God deliuer vs. Of the Cities in Germany they say in the vulgar tongue Vlm die reichest Augspurg die hoffertigest Trier die eltest Nurnberg die Witzigest Strasburg die edlest That is Vlms the richest Augsburg the proudest Trier the eldest Nurnberg the wittiest Strasburg the noblest That all Germany is blind onely Nurnberg hath one eye Of the Bishopricks vpon the Rheine That Chur is the highest because it is seated vpon the highest Alpes neere the Spring head of the Rheine Costnetz the amplest Basil the sweetest or pleasantest Strasburg the noblest because no man is a Canon of that Church which is not an Earle or a Baron of seuenteene discents Spire the most religious Metz the most venerable as the chiefe among the Electors Clergy-men Colen the richest Trier the most ancient The Italian Curtisans say that a German makes loue like a Clowne doth that worke like an Asse and paies like a Prince which the Germans also say in the same words of their vulgar tongue Eine Deutscher bulet wie ein bawer fúchst wie ein esel vnd bezalt wie-ein fúrst The Germans say that Suenia alone hath whores Franconia robbers
by the way I obserued that the vvaggons hauing past more then halfe the way must haue the way giuen them by all the waggons they meet because their horses should in reason be most weary At Harlam I paied for supper bed and breakfast twenty fiue stiuers Hence I vvent by vvaggon and paied for my part of it sixteene stiuers for three miles to Amsterdam and there receiuing my money returned to Harlam drawne ouer the snow and ice which had plentifully fallen on a sledge for which I paid foure stiuers and I obserued many markes set vp in the fields to direct the way to passengers From Harlam I returned to Leyden where I lodged in a French-mans house for intending to bestow all my time in the French tongue till by Letters I should dispose of my estate in England and there being a famous Vniuersity in this City I found no abiding fitter for me then this I paid for my diet and chamber in this French-mans house three guidens and fifteene stiuers weekely but in the common Innes they pay ten or fifteene stiuers a meale according to the quantity of beere they drinke and ordinarily twenty stiuers or more if they drinke wine Leyden is so called of the words Legt bey de dunen that is lieth by the Downes so they call the sandy bankes of the Sea as the English doe likewise in Kent Leyden is of a round forme or perhaps somewhat longer from the East to the West where the Rheine passeth by it It is a City of much beauty the houses are very fairely built of bricke and be vniforme The Churches are couered with long slates as they be almost through all Holland and among the streetes one is much fairer then the rest in the middest whereof is a peece of ground railed in where the Merchants meet Many streetes are diuided with waters which are passed by woodden bridges and in deede if a man dig two foote in any part of Holland he shall find water I said that the Rheine passeth by this City yet doth it not fall into the Sea but leeseth it selfe in many standing ditches of water in this low part of the continent Toward the North-west about a mile from the City there is the end of a ditch digged of old from the very City vulgarly called Malgatt because the Citizens spent much treasure in a vaine hope to make a Hauen for ships and a nauigable water to come vp to the Towne for the heapes of sand daily cast vp by the Sea filled the place vp where they thought to haue made the Hauen as fast as they could dig it yet was it long before they would cease from this ill aduised worke Notwithstanding salt water comes vnder the earth from the Sea into this ditch and they carry the same vnto the City to make salt thereof Vpon the same Sea-shore towards the North and like distance from the City is a Village called Catwicke seated vpon Mountaines of sands on the maine sea Vpon the same shore further towards the North is a place where they say the Romans of old had an Armory the ruines whereof some musket shot from the shore more or lesse appeare as the wind couers them with sand or blowing from another quarter driues away the sand and so laies them open Hereabouts they say that many coines of the Romans are oftentimes digged vp and neere the Hoch-landish Church is a Monument built by Caligula the Emperour which now belongs to a Gentleman of that Countrey Vpon the North side of this city the Villages Warmond and Nortwicke lie vpon the aforesaid Downes but the City hath no gate that directly leades to them Leyden hath fiue gates Regenspurgport on the West side which leadeth to Harlam and to Catwicke and white port which leadeth to Hage betweene which gates there is a low water-gate of iron grates for boates to passe in and out Neere White Port lies a house where they exercise shooting with the Peece and Crosse-bow On the South side is the gate Kow-port leading into the pastures Vpon the East side is the gate Hochwertz-port more fortified then any of the rest and it leadeth to Vberden Gonda and to Alphen There is another gate Zillport which leadeth ro Vtretcht whither you passe by water or land The foresaid street which I said was the beauty of the Towne lieth from the West to Hochwertzport on the East side and is called Breitstrat that is Broadstreete In the spring time of the yeere 1593 purposing to see the Cities of the vnited Prouinces I hired a Waggon for sixe stiuers and went from Leyden to Delph three miles in three houres space through corne fields and rich pastures and hauing gone two third parts of the way we passed ouer the water that runnes from Leyden to Delph In all these parts the high way hath ditches on both sides and is very plaine sandy and very dry being daily repaired by the countrey people By the way is a mill in which they make oyle of rape and line seedes mingled with wallnut shels and they haue many such miles in those parts Not farre of at Voberg the Histories write of a holy Groue famous for a conspiracy against the Romans The City of Delph lyeth in length from the North to the South and the falrest street called Corne-mart lies the same way Here as in all the Cities of these parts the buildings are of bricke but the houses of Delph are more stately built and seeme to haue more antiquity then other where In the New Church is a Monument of the Prince of Orange the poorest that euer I saw for such a person being onely of rough stones and morter with posts of wood coloured ouer with black and very little erected from the ground Neere the Church is a large market-place and within a little Iland the Senate house is built The Hauen is on the South side The Prince of Orange dwelt heere in a Monastery and vsed to eat in a low parlor whence as he ascended the staires into the chamber a wicked murtherer gaue him his deaths wound who flying by a backe doore was after taken in the Citie and put to a most cruell but most deserued death The Countesse of Buren daughter to this said Prince now liued in this Monastery with her family Here I paied for one meale for my selfe and a guest inuited by me and two pots of Rhenish wine three guldens and fiue stiuers When the Spanish Army most pressed the vnited Prouinces the Prince of Orange then lying here to shunne a greater mischiefe from the Spaniards brake downe the bankes of the sea and let in the waters which did much hurt to the Countrey but saued them from the Spaniards who with great feare hasted away giuing great rewards to those that guided them to the firme continent At Delph are about three hundred Brewers and their beere for the goodnesse is called Delphs-English but howsoeuer they had Brewers and the very
foure Court-yards with a large Garden which was then somewhat wild and vnmanured At this time the Ciuill warre being ended the King began to build a Gallerie the beginning of which worke was very magnificent The next day after I had seene the King I returned on foote eight leagues to Sone Heere I found post-Horses returning to Paris and hiring one of them for twentie soulz I rode eight miles through fruitfull fieldes of Corne and pleasant Hilles planted with Vines and so returned to Paris entring by the Gate of Saint Victoire in the Vniuersitie Now my Crownes which I had saued from the foresaid theeues were by little and little spent and I who in my long iourney had neuer wanted money but had rather furnished others that wanted with no small sums was forced to treat with vnknowne Merchants for taking money vpon exchange But howsoeuer I had in other places dealt with noble Merchants yet here I found my selfe to bee fallen into the hands of base and costiue Merchants who perhaps hauing been deceiued by English Gentlemen driuen by want to serue in the warres of France had not the least respect of mee for my misfortune among Theeues nor yet for our common Countrey It happened that at this time there were in Paris two English Knighis brethren namely Sir Charles and Sir Henry Dauers who for an ill accident liued then as banished men And to them I made my misfortune knowne who like Gentlemen of their qualitie had a iust feeling thereof especially for that they were acquainted with Sir Richard Moryson my brother and they would willingly haue lent mee money But I will tell a truth well knowne These brothers vpon good bonds were to haue receiued some thousands of Crownes a few moneths past in the Temple Hall which is one of the Innes of Court of London for those that professe the English Law This being made knowne by one of the debtors the Queene confiscated those Crownes as belonging to banished men Whereupon these Knightes being to attend the French King to Lyons in his warre vpon Sauoy were much driuen to their shiftes to get money for that iourney Yet did they not cast off all care to prouide for me but with great importunitie perswaded a starueling Merchant to furnish me with ten French Crownes When I had receiued them I spent some few daies in refreshing my selfe at Paris They account fortie eight miles from Paris to Roane whether I went by boat and payed a French Crowne for my passage The first day we passed eighteene miles to Poissy a most faire and famous Nunnerie and towards the euening wee passed by the Kings Pallace S. Germain The next day we passed twentie leagues to Andale and by the way passed by a bridge diuiding the County of France from the Dutchy of Normandy and did see the Pallace Galeon and a most faire Monastery Then wee passed foure miles by water to Port S. Antoine and one mile by land Then wee hired another boat in which we passed fiue leagues to Roane and I payed for this passage three soulz This our way was by pleasant Ilands hauing on both sides pleasant Hilles planted with Vines and fruit-trees The Citie of Roane is seated on the North side of the Riuer Seyne partly in a Plaine partly vpon sides of Hilles The building is for the most part of Free-stone brought from the Citie Cane and vpon a Hill towards the North without the walles the Fort S. Cateline was seated when King Henrie the fourth besieged Roane and then the Fort much anoyed the quarter of the English auxiliarie forces but now this Fort was altogether demolished Concerning expences of diet in these parts I spent at Paris in the Innes fifteene soulz each meale and at Roane twelue soulz and at some Innes by the way fifteene soulz but whosoeuer payes for his supper hath nothing to pay for his bed But before the late Ciuill warre they payed no more at Roane then eight soulz for a meale Passengers who stay long in the Citie vse to hire a chamber which at Paris is giuen for two French Crownes by the moneth if it be well furnished and otherwise for lesse They that at Paris hier a chamber in this sort vse to buy their meate in Cookes shops and hauing agreed for it the Cookes bring it to their chamber warme and with pleasant sauce And surely all things for diet were cheaper at Paris then they vse to be at London and since they vse to buy small peeces of meate a solitarie passenger shall in that respect spend the lesse Other passengers agree with some Citizen for diet and chamber which may bee had at Paris in conuenient sort for one hundred and fiftie French Crownes by the yeere and at Roane for one hundred and twentie but before the last Ciuill warre it might haue been had for one hundred or eightie and sometimes for sixtie French Crownes At Roane I now payed for my supper twelue soulz and the next day eleuen soulz for my dinner The night following wee rode fourteene leagues to Diepe in a most pleasant way diuided into inclosed Pastures yeelding great store of Apletrees not onely in the hedges but also in the open fieldes About midnight we tooke some rest and meate in a poore and solitaire Inne of a Village but with such feare as wee were ready to flie vpon the least noise From Roane to Dieppe I hired a horse for thirtie soulz and in this last Inne I payed twelue soulz for my meate and fiue soulz for my horse-meate Dieppe is a pleasant Citie and the greater part thereof especially la Rue grande that is the great street is seated in a plaine vpon the Hauen but it is compassed with Mountaines and is diuided into two parts by an Arme of the Sea The greatest part of the building is of Timber and Clay like our building of England I had spent at Paris most part of the ten Crownes I there receiued and when I came from Roane I perceiued that I should presently fall into want of money Being in these straites I went to the younger Paynter one of the English Posts passing betweene London and Paris and now returning in my company to London and to him in few words I made my case knowne who willingly yeelded to beare my charges to London hauing me still in his company for a pledge At Dieppe I payed fifteene soulz for each meale and ten soulz for my licence to passe ouer Sea and fiue soulz of gift to one of the Officers and tenne soulz for my part of a boat hired to draw our ship out of the Hauen of Dieppe After we had failed fourteene houres vpon Tuesday the thirteenth of May after the old stile in the yeere 1595 early in the morning we landed in England at Douer and I payed a French Crowne for my passage in the ship and sixe English pence for my passage in a boate from the ship to that Port of blessed England But we were fearce
for the vnderstanding of the former iournall THE Trauellers most commodious course is to deliuer into the hands of some Merchant those kinds of gold or siluer coynes which are of greatest value in those parts to which he takes his iourney with couenant to deliuer him by his Factor the same both in the Species or kind and in the number or to send them in that sort to him by a trusty messenger But the first course is not in vse besides that it is a difficult taske to find such diuers kinds in any particular place except it be from the Exchangers and Vsurers who vse not to serue another mans turne for profit or otherwise without their owne gaine and being most expert in such affaires are like to draw all the hoped profit to themselues And the second course threatens many dangers by robberies by confiscations of the transmitted Coynes and by the doubtfull credit of the messengers Particularly in England and France he that is knowne to carry great summes of money about him shall runne great danger to be robbed and in England the Law forbids any Traueller vpon paine of confiscation to carry more money about him out of the Kingdome then will serue for the expences of his iourney namely aboue twenty pounds sterling As likewise in France the like Law restraines the exporting of money allowing an Horseman from Lyons to Rome eighty crownes from Turine to Rome fifty and no more for his expences all greater summes found about him being subiect to confiscation yet I confesse that many wary Trauellers haue exported greater summes out of England into France and out of France into England and thereby with these hazards haue made great gaine But vpon the confines of Italy and the seuerall principalities thereof yea at the gates of each City in Italy most crafty Officers so curiously search into the breach of these Paenall Statutes and so narrowly prie into all mens carriage neuer wincking at any delinquent as there is no hope vpon breach of the Law to escape the penalty for these searchers are tied to more strict attention in this businesse that according to their Office they may beware least their Princes be defrauded of their Tributes And since very Iewels and the least toyes carried about passengers are subiect to frequent Tributes according to the frequent Principalities these good fellowes leaue nothing vnassaied in the wished discouery of these fraudes yea where they haue no iust suspition of fraud yet cease they not to trouble passengers in this kind till they haue extorted some bribe or gift from them Behold here a two horned danger as I may tearme it of the captious argument called Dilemma which trauellers cannot possibly escape in Italy who carry about them Iewels or great summes of money where they are in danger of confiscation if they hide them warily and of theeues if they shew them and pay due tributes for them For theeues namely men banished for notorious crimes lie continually vpon the confines of Princes very frequent in Italy and more specially of the Kingdome of Naples and of the Popes territory In Germany Bomerland Sweitzerland the Low-Countreys Denmarke Poland and Turkey passengers may carry summes of money about them with more security neither haue I there obserued any great danger therein so that the passenger affect not solitarinesse and be so wary as not to boast of his plenty Touching the diuers kinds of Coynes to be transported I forewarne the Reader that the gold Coynes of England and of France and aswell the siluer as gold Coynes of Spaine are in generall spent abroad with greatest gaine but euen the gold and siluer Coynes of other Princes are rarely currant out of their owne Dominions and can hardly be exchanged among Merchants without some losse Againe that hee who exports any gold coynes must take care to haue them of iust weight for such hee may disburse with gaine but shall beare losse in others that are lighter because they want the helpe of their Princes Prerogatiue where no man can be forced to receiue them Now I wil briefly shew which kinds of foraine coines are most valued in diuers states In England the gold and siluer coynes of Spaine and French Crownes are highly valued In Scotland the same coynes and as well in Scotland as Ireland moreouer the gold and siluer coynes of England are valued For Germany at Stode the English angels and all the gold coynes of England France and Spaine are most esteemed but if you passe into the vpper parts of Germany you must for your expences there change these coynes at Stode into the Rhenish gold guldens and siluer dollers of Germany But at Vienna and the confines of Hungary the Hungarian ducats are most currant In Bohmerland the Rheinish gold guldens the siluer dollers of Germany and the Hungarian ducats In Sweitzerland first the French Crownes of gold then the gold guldens and siluer dollers of Germany In Denmarke the siluer and gold coynes of England At Dantzk in Prussen and throughout all Poland the gold coynes of England and the gold guldens and siluer dollers of Germany and especially Hungarian ducats In France vpon the Sea coasts the Angels and gold coynes of England are currant but for your iourney further into the land you must change them into French Crownes and the siluer coynes of that Kingdome and the gold coynes of Spaine are very currant in all the Cities euen within the land In the Low Countries all coynes are currant they being most cunning exchangers and wanting many things yet drawing to them abundance of all forraine commodities so as they haue skill to draw gold out of the dung as he said of Ennius Yet they most esteeme the coynes of England Spaine and France In Turkey the gold zechines of Venice are most currant and preferred euen before their owne Sultanones of gold The coynes after them most esteemed and to be spent with most gaine are the siluer ryals of Spaine which the Italians call Pezzi d'otto and Pezzi di quattro pieces of eight and pieces of foure and the Turks call piastri and halfe piastri In Italy generally the gold coynes of Spaine are spent with most aduantage In the next place and more particularly at Venice and Naples the French Crownes are esteemed but in Italy more then any other place you must haue care they be of iust weight In generall all gold coynes may be put away with gayne at Venice but they being in other parts of Italy lesse valued or not currant hee that trauels higher must change them there into siluer Crownes of Italy and least the weight of them should be burthensome and he should chance to fall into the hands of theeues called Banditi banished men he shall do well to carry no more about him then will suffice for the expences of his iourney and to deliuer the rest to some Venetian Merchant of credit taking his bils of exchange or letters by which he may receiue them
after the rate of foure shillings six pence English for each doller I gaue my bill for the payment of eleuen pound fiue shillings English to be repaied by my friend at London And at Dantzk the same Merchant for the same fifty dollers gaue me one and thirty Hungarian duckets of gold and foureteen grosh in siluer being the fittest money for my iourney to Crakaw in Poland and to Vienna in Oestreich or Austria Out of England to Venice in Italy the exchange of foure shillings and sixe or eight pence English vseth to bee rated at a Venetian Ducket My selfe tooke no bils of exchange from England to Venice but had letters of credit to receiue money of a Venetian Merchant to be repaid in London vpon my bill after the rate of foure shillings three pence for each Venetian ducket And at first being to take my iourney for Rome and Naples I tooke vp two hundred siluer crownes most fit for that iourney which at Venice were rated at two hundred fiue twenty duckets and nineteene grosh and I gaue my bill for three and fifty pound sterling twelue shillings and sixe pence English to be repaied by my friend in London Then I retained with my selfe as many of those crownes as were necessary for my iourney leauing the rest in the hands of a Venetian Merchant who gaue me a bill to receiue so many crownes In specie that is in kind at Florence where I purposed to make my aboad for some few moneths Out of England into Turkey I formerly said that for the vncertainty of the iourney vpon the great distances of places there is no certaine value of exchange neither vse our Merchants to send bils of exchange thither but to giue letters of credit first to receiue money there either at large according to the passengers wants or for a certaine yeerely summe to be after repaied in England vpon the passengers bill And the Merchants there for each zechine of gold of Venice deliuered at Haleppo vse to exact nine or ten shiliings English to be repaied in London to the passengers great losse which he that will auoid may exchange his money to Venice and there receiue zechines of gold or siluer moneys of Spaine to carry with him In specie that is in kind From London into France the exchange of sixe shillings English vseth to be rated at threescore French soulz or three French pounds which make a common French crowne but a French crowne In specie and of iust waight is valued there at threescore and foure soulz as in England an Angell of gold is worth more then ten shillings siluer among the Exchangers though in expences it is giueri out for no more then ten shillings and not onely bils of exchange into France are giuen at the foresaid rate for moneys first receiued in England but he that hath a merchant to his friend or acquaintance may easily compound to receiue money first in France vpon his letters of credit and to repay it in London after the rate of sixe shillings English for sixtie French soulz To this I will adde two generall cautions most necessarie for trauellers first whereas in Germany and Italy the Territories of absolute Princes are frequent and of small extent and each of these Princes doth coyne small pieces of brasse money it behooueth the passenger to take heede that he spend each Princes brasse moneys within his Territory or else that vpon the confines hee change them into brasse moneys currant in the next Territory which if hee neglect the subiects of the new Prince howsoeuer they bee neighbours to the former Prince and may daily change these coynes for their owne yet they will not receiue them without great gaine they being of themselues little worth and onely by the prerogatiue of each Prince currant among their owne subiects Secondly the passenger must take speciall care to leauea faithfull friend at home to pay the bils readily which he sends ouer to his Merchant for so doing hee shall neuer want in forraine parts at least among Christians and knowne places of trafficke yea out of his good report hee shall bee furnished with more money then is warranted by his letters of credit but on the contrary if his friend deny or delay paiments hee shall not haue credit to borrow a penny vpon his occasions more then that for which the Factors shall haue warrant by billes of exchange or letters of credit and if he fall into any misfortune he shall not find a friend to deliuer him from penurie and shame These things being sayed in generall nothing remaines now but to set downe the particular moneys of seuerall Kingdomes and the value of them at the time when I liued beyond Seas which value is subiect to change at the pleasure of each absolute Prince And in this discourse I thinke most fit to begin with the moneys of England being more familiarly knowne vnto me Being to write of the Standard weight and value of English moneys I thinke fit first to giue some few admonitions to the Reader First that the purest gold containes foure and twentie caracts in the ounce and foure graines make a caract Secondly that the purest siluer containes twelue ounces in each pound Troy weight And that Edward the first King of England keeping the Feast of Christs Natiuitie at Barwich in the yeere 1300 did vpon Saint Steuens day decrie the value of base siluer moneys and after did altogether forbid the vse of them and shortly after commanded sterling money to be coyned so called of the Easterlings who first coyned siluer money of that Standard which is of eleuen ounces two penny weight Thirdly that the English pound as well of gold as siluer meaning the pound of the Ballence not the pound of twentie shillings commonly spent containes twelue ounces Troy weight And that each ounce of siluer is worth fiue shillings of the currant money and each ounce of Angel gold is worth three pound fiue shillings or sixtie fiue shillings of Queene Elizabeths siluer money and each ounce of Crowne gold is worth three pound or sixtie shillings of the same coyne Fourthly that the Mint-Master gaue account before the Queenes Examiners for the money they coyned as well by the tale or number of the pieces as by the sheere for it being not possible to coyne moneys of the iust prescribed weight yet the Mint-master was held to haue performed his contract with the Queen for the standard prescribed by her so the siluer were not more then 2 penny weight in the ounce heauier or lighter then her standard prescribed and in like sort for the coyning of gold a certaine proportion of some eight graines in the ounce was allowed to the Mint-Master in this account by the sheere Fiftly that 20 penny weight makes an ounce and 24 graines make a penny weight Now I returne to the discourse in hand Queene Elizabeth in the yeere 1600 contracted with the Mint-Master that of gold of the standard
Poland I remember that three potschandels or pochanels made one creitzer and nine creitzers with a pochanell made foure weissgrosh and that thirty Grosh of Morauia or weissgrosh made a doller And that in Bohemia they had a kind of Grosh which answered in value to the Grosh of Polonia Lastly that Merchants reckoned two hallers for a pfenning and six pfenning for a grosh and sixty grosh for a shocke and forty grosh for a marke The Common-wealth of the Sweitzers consisting of diuers Cities and Villages and Territories doth also admit diuers moneys The priuiledge of Coyning is granted in common to Zurech Basil and Schaphusen and each of these Cities hath his peculiar mynt with Officers to ouersee that the moneys stamped with the markes of the Cities be of iust weight and due mixture but each of these Cities hath their peculiar moneys They of Basil with the Neighbour townes of Alsetz doe coyne a peece of money which of a Crow stamped vpon it is called Reppen Múntz whereof fiue and twenty pound Troy weight called in Latin Assis make a common gold gulden esteemed at sixty creitzers They of Schaphusen doe coyne money of the same mixture and value together with the vsuall money of the Empire They of Zurech coyne dollers and halfe dollers after the value of those in the Empire but they haue a lesse money of their owne whereof forty pounds Troy weight called in Latin Assis make a common gold Gulden They also coyne Batzen whereof sixteene make a gold Gulden More particularly to explane the value of these moneys Six Rappen of Basil make a plappart or three creitzers and twenty piappart or sixty creitzers make a common Gulden And as I formerly said in the discourse of German moneys from Lindaw to Costnetz three pfenning of Costnetz make a Creitzer Now I adde that the money of Schaphusen and Costnetz is spent to the confines of Schaphusen and the money of Basil is spent from thence to Basil. At Zurech sixe pfenning make a shilling worth a penny English and three pfenning make a Sicherling Two great finfers of Basil and one little finferlin make a batz of Basil and in like sort fiue finferlin make a batz and fiue finfers make two batzen and these moneys are spent to Strassburg and so to Spire in Germany Bern Frtburg and Solothurn haue a peculiar money whereof two and forty pounds Troy weight in Latin Assis and twice foure ounces in Latin Trientes make a gold Gulden Besides they and especially those of Solethurn in great quantity coyne a peece of mony which the Sweitzers call Dickenpfenning the French call Testoome but it is lesse worth by the tenth part then the Testoone of France Those of Bern did first coyne Batzen so called of a Beare the Armes of the City for the words Baren and also batzen signifie Beares in the Sweitzers tongue and the Cities of Sueuia imitating them drew the same money and word into Germany At Bern sixteene batzen are esteemed for a rhenish gold Gulden The money of Lucerna is like to that of Basil but onely sixe ounces Troy weight more base and fifty of these moneys make a Rhenish gold Gulden As the French gold is spent with gaine in Sweitzerland so in all places vpon these confines of France the French siluer Coynes called Francks are commonly spent In the Cantons dwelling scattered in Villages namely the Sweitz those of Vnderuald the Tugians those of Glarona and Abbatiscella a pound is a doller In Rhaetia or the Grisons the Bishop and the Citizens of Chur coyne money and the Abbot of Disent hath an old priuiledge of coyning And here sixty creitzers make a common gulden foure Angster make a Creitzer and twelue Angster make a Behmisch But in this Prouince confining vpon the State of Venice the Lires or Berlingots and the gagets of Venice are vulgarly spent and I remember that when I came out of the state of Venice into this Prouince I spent Crownes of Italy and I find in my notes that at Lasagna I changed a siluer crowne for eight and twenty batzen but since seuen batzen of Germany make two lires of Venice and a gold crowne of Italy is there giuen for eightlires I thinke that either it was a gold crowne that I changed or that the batzen of this Prouince are of lesse value then those of Germany For a gold crowne of Italy and the French crowne are both of a value and I said before that at Strassburg I changed each of these Crownes for foure and twenty batzen yet to the contrary I find that passing forward in this Territory of the Grisons I exchanged at Lanzi a siluer crowne of Italy for seuen and twenty batzen and that three batzen were there esteemed at foureteene creitzers which in Germany are onely worth twelue creitzers So as I am doubtfull and cannot determine the value of the Italian coynes in the small moneys of the Grisons In the foresaid Imperiall Dieta or Parliament held at Augsburg in the yeere 1551. these words are added to the Imperiall Edict We wil that this our Edict shall be propounded to our Hereditary States of the Low-Countreys and we will take care that they apply themselues thereunto as much as they possibly can The States of the Low-Countreys coyne diuers peeces of gold as Archiducall Angels and Crownes And the Angell is of the standard of twenty two Caracts and of three penny weight seuen graines Also they coyne gold Lyons called Riders whereof each is worth foure Flemmish Guldens and a halfe The Noble of Gant is of the same standard with the French Crowne and in England it is worth thirteene shillings foure pence They spend commonly Phillips dollers the value whereof I haue set downe with the moneys of Germany To conclude they coyne any peece of which they can make gayne yea the Merchants report that they coyne the great moneys of Spaine England and all Dominions stamped with the same Image and Armes and for such vtter the same in their trafficke with the Indians But they coyne little gold or siluer of their owne hauing a singular Art to draw all forraine coynes when they want them by raising the value and in like sort to put them away when they haue got abundance therof by decrying the value And when their Exchequer aboundeth with any money they are to pay their Army then they increase the value thereof but hauing aboundance of the same coyne and being to receiue their reuenues then they decry the value thereof And while they thus raise the value of forraine great coynes in their small moneys it fals out that they haue plenty of gold and siluer with the onely losse of base stiuers and brasse moneys And indeed as well the art as industry of this Nation hath in our age become wonderfull to all other Nations For they haue no woods yet by the commodity of their riuers and ditches they are become terrible to their enemies in the
is exchanged for three Franckes or for foure Quarts d'escn or for little more then foure testoones For foureteen soulz and a halfe make a testoon fifteene soulz make a Quart d'esca and twenty soulz make a francke and sixty soulz make a French crowne and twelue deniers make a soulz Yet a gold French crowne In specie that is in kind is changed for sixty fiue soulz As in like sort in England a French crowne is worth no more then six shillings and the English Angell is worth no more then 11. shillings in common estimation yet he that brings a weighty a French crowne In specie to the Gold-smyths they will giue him sixe shilling six pence for it and he that brings to them an old Angell of gold they will gine him 11. shillings and six pence or more for it And in the last ciuill warre the value of the French crowne was raised to 120 soulz till the King reduced the same to the old value after the warre composed The same King Henry the fourth since that time raised the value of gold crownes to the end he might draw backe his gold which was carried into forraine parts My selfe passing through Lorayne before the French ciuil warre was fully appeased did at Monwicke vpon the confines of Lorayne and German exchange a French crowne for foure franckes and nine grosh and shortly after comming to Shallons exchanged a French crowne for no more then sixty soulz so as I guesse that either the Franckes of Lor aine differ from the Franckes of France or that the tumult of the warre and the making of peace shortly after made this difference Of the diuers measures of miles through diuers parts of the world FVrther being to write of the diuers measures of miles through the diuers parts of the World it seemed good to me to adde the measure of miles vulgarly receiued namely that fiue Italian miles or three French or two and a halfe English make one Dutch mile and that one Dutch mile and a halfe makes a mile of Sweitzerland It remaines now that according to my owne experience I should speake something of the diuers kindes of miles And in generall this my opinion hath respect to the difficult or easie passages of the way since euen in England the miles seeme and indeed are more short neere London where the waies are faire and plaine and frequently inhabited as they seeme and indeed are more long and tedious through the desart places of the North ouer mountaines and through vninhabited and difficult passages The Romans of old held a thousand paces for a mile and such are the miles of Italie A common English mile makes one a halfe Italian but towards the North in some particular places of England the miles are longer among which the Kentish mile being a Southerne County is prouerbially held to be extraordinarily long The Irish miles among the English and the Irish-English are answerable to the English howsoeuer for the solitary and disinhabited wayes and many foards often ouerflowed they are more troublesome to passe In like sort the miles of Scotland answere to the Northerne miles of England saue that the frequent climing of mountaines and the vnbeaten waies make them seeme longer and indeed require more time for the passage Villamont a French gentleman in the book of his trauels witnesseth that one French mile containes two Italian miles The common Germain mile being for the most part in plaines makes more then three English or fiue Italian miles but in some places the solitude of Woods and the ascent of Mountaines make the miles of Germany seeme much longer and Sueuia extraordinarily hath long miles though it be a plaine Countrey The miles of Sweitzerland being ouer continuall Mountaines are so long as passengers distinguish their iourney more by the spaces of howers then by the distances or numbers of miles And I remember that finding no horse to be hired I went on foote from Scaphusen to Zureth which iourney I was going ten howers being accounted but foure miles And in Rhaetia among the Grisons vpon the confines of Italy one mile is held for sixe Italian miles And vpon the foote of the Alpes towards the North one mile is accounted for seuen miles and a halfe of Italy where hauing a good horse I could ride with an ordinarie pace no more then one Dutch mile in foure howers space By which appeares that the measure of miles is very vncertaine among the Sweitzers who for the most part reckon their iourneys by howers riding or going with an ordinary pace and not by miles The miles of Bohemia and Morauia are no lesse tedious and I remember that my selfe passing there on horseback did commonly ride no more then foure miles in a dayes iourney And howsoeuer the length of the Sweitzers and Bohemian miles may in part be attributed to the climbing of Mountaines and bad waies yet no such reason can be giuen for the miles of Morauia which Country is either a plaine or little pleasant Hilles and the waies faire and the Countrey well inhabited The Low-Countrey miles are of a middle length betweene the German and French miles But in the very Country of Holland they differ much one from another since foure miles of great Holland make sixe miles of little Holland And I remember that about the Citie Horne I esteemed each mile longer then three English Also next to the Holland miles those of Freesland are longer then the rest A mile of Denmark is somewhat longer then three English miles and answereth to the common mile of Germany The miles of Poland generally are like the miles of Denmarke but they differ in length one from the other For I remember that in Prussia each dayes iourny I passed by coach some seuen miles and in middle Poland nine or ten miles but in vpper Poland towards Germany I commonly rode on horse-back no more then fiue miles or there-abouts each day in my passage from Crakaw to Morauia In Russia among the Moscouites confining vpon Poland a mile is called a ferse and answeres to fiue Italian miles or one common mile of Germany In Turkey those that guide Christians hauing the Italian tongue doe in my opinion number the miles to them much after the Italian manner THE REBELLION OF HVGH EARLE OF TYRONE AND THE APPEASING THEREOF WRITEN IN FORME OF A IOVRNALL PART II. BOOKE I. CHAP. I. Of the Induction or Preface to my Irish Iournall and a compendious narration how CHARLES BLOVNT Lord Mountioy my Lord and Master of happy memorie was chosen Lord Deputy of Ireland and of this worthy Lords qualitie as also of the Councels in generali by which he broke the Kebels hearts and gane peace to that trenbled State Together with his particular actions in the end of the yeere 1599. AT my returne from Scotland about the month of September in the yeere 1598 I retyred my selfe
such an humble and heartie submission as they might recommend into England from him Tyrone by his answere of the two and twentie of Ianuarie acknowledged vnder his hand her Maiesties mercy therein extended to him and confessed offences and breaches of the Articles there signed withall desiring them to examine the wrongs and prouocations by which he had beene driuen thereunto and protesting his sorrow for these offences The same day he met the Commissioners neere Dundalke where he being on the one side of the Brooke they on the other hee put of his hat and holding it with great reuerence in his hand said to them That hee was come thither not onely to shew his duty to them as her Maiesties Commissioners but his inward desire to bee made continued a subiect When he would haue remembred the wrongs since his late Pardon prouoking him to disloialtie they cut him off by remembring him of all the benefits and that of his last pardon receiued from the Queene which should haue counterpoised his wrongs and haue kept him in duty He confessed this with shew of great remorse and protested before God and heauen that there was no Prince not creature whom he honoured as he did her Maiestie nor any Nation of people that he loued or trusted more then the English Protesting further that if her Maiestie would please to accept of him againe as a subiect and to take such course as hee might bee so continued thus still he reserued pretence of wrongs to shaddow his future disloialties then he doubted not but to redeeme all his faults past with some notable seruices Besides hee gaue answers to diuers questions and signed them after with his hand First asked what messages and letters had passed betweene Spaine and him he answered neuer to haue receiued any but incouragements from Spaine and assurances of an Army to aide him that he neuer had further contract with the Spaniards and that he had sent the King of Spaines letter aboue mentioned to the Lord Deputie and Counsell that he neuer receiued thence any money or ought of value nor any of his confederates to his knowledge Only Odonnel had some fifteene barrels of powder whereof he should haue had a portion but neuer had it Secondly for the late Submitties Pardons and Pledges hee vndertooke that with all speede the Pledges should be sent to Dublin with Agents to sue out the Pardon 's granted in the last Treatie at Dundalke Thirdly for his making O kealy he vowed that the Gentlemen of the Countrie made him and that he would hereafter neuer meddle in the causes of the Brenny Fourthly for the Rebels of Lemster and the Butlers he answered that he neuer had confederacy with any but Feogh Mac Hugh and for the Butlers hee neuer had any thing to doe with them Fiftly for Agents in Spaine he denied to haue any or to know any his confederates had Sixthly for his iealousie of the State hee auowed it to be vpon iust causes which hee would after make knowne This done hee desired Captaine Warren might come ouer the Brooke to him and then by him he requested that himselfe might come ouer to the Commissioners in token of his faithfull heart to her Maiestie which granted he with great reuerence saluted them and with hat in hand lifting vp his eyes to Heauen desired God to take vengeance on him if her Maiestie vouchsafing to make him a subiect and to cause the Articles of Dundalke to be kept to him he would not continue faithfull and desired neuer to see Christ in the face if he meant not as he spake He confessed that the Spanish ships lately arriued in the North had brought Odonnel the Kings letter signifying that he heard the Earle of Tirone to be dead and the Irish to haue receiued a great ouerthrow desiring to be aduertised of their State And that Odonnel before his comming had giuen answer that if the King sent an Army he would take his part and hoped the like of the other Irish. But at his comming that the Spanish Captaine excusing that the King had not written to him he only told him that promise had not been kept with him by the English and therefore he would not refuse the Kings promised aide And with many execrations swore that the Captaine left neither Munition nor Treasure with him and that he neuer receiued any thing from the King of Spaine but that letter ahoue mentioned which he sent to the Lord Deputy And that he neuer wrote but three letters into Spaine all about one time and as he thought all intercepted Lastly he vehemently denied to haue incited any Mounster men to rebellion since his last pardon So with like reuerence as formerly he tooke his leaue Vpon aduertisement hereof into England the Commissioners receiued ample power to conclude all things with Tyrone Thus much they made knowne to him by letters sent to him by his old friend Captaine Warren the ninth of March with instructions to appoint the second of Aprill the day of meeting at Dundalke which Tyrone accepted with shew of ioy to be receiued to her Maiesties mercy the sweetnes whereof he had often experienced and of feare to be pursued by her forces which he professed himselfe not able to resist But by his letters the fifteene of March he made doubt of meeting pretending that his pledges were not changed according to couenant nor restitution made him by those that had preyed his Country and that his confederates could not come so soone The Commissioners replyed by letters the two and twenty of March that these were but delayes since the pledges at the meeting vpon his putting in his eldest sonne for pledge should be restored and he in all things reasonably satisfied protesting that if he refused this occasion they could doe no more for him since her Maiesty would be no longer abused by his faire promises and delayes Adding that he must conforme himselfe to the directions they had and could not alter Master Secretary wrote out of England vnto the Commissioners the two and twenty of March That her Maiesty was displeased to haue the treaty thus delayed and charged to haue the meeting in a Towne as a submission of the Rebels not in the field as a parley That her Maiesty prepared for the warre resoluing not to haue any more treaties if this tooke not effect Lastly desiring them to acquaint the Lord Deputy with all their directions and the issues and to excuse his not writing to his Lordship thinking that the Commissioners were not at Dublyn with him Vpon the tenth of Aprill in the yeere 1597 the Commissioners againe pressed Tyrone by letters not to slacke his owne greatest good by delayes and appointed for the last day of meeting the sixteenth of that present moneth and that his confederats not able then to come should draw after as soone as they could protesting that this was the last time that they would write vnto him Tyrone on the
seuenteenth of April sent his reasons of not comming First iustifying his relaps into disloialty by the truce not obserued to him and because restitution was not made him of preyes taken from him which was promised Then excusing his not meeting because his pledges by the truce being from three moneths to three moneths to be changed were still detained yea his pledges the second time put in were kept together with the first And saying that he durst not come to the Lord Generall because many promises by him made being not kept he knew it was much against his honourable mind and so could not be perswaded but that the Lord Generall was ouerruled by the Lord Deputy so as he could not make good his promises without the Lord Deputies consent who shewed malice to him and was no doubt the cause of all the breaches of such promises as had beene made vnto him Againe in regard he heard that the Lord Bourgh was to come ouer Lord Deputy who was altogether vnknowne to him he protested to feare that the acts of the Lord Generall with him would not be made good wishing that rather the Lord Generall might be continued in his command for then he would be confident of a good conclusion Finally he desired a meeting neere Dundalke the sixe and twenty of Aprill but this appointment for the day being against the last finall resolution and for the place against her Maiesties directions there was no more speech of this treaty In the meane time Sir William Russell Lord Deputy by the managing of those and like affaires finding himselfe not duly countenanced out of England in the place he sustained had made earnest suit to be called home and accordingly about the end of May he was reuoked and the Lord Bourgh so he himselfe writes others write Burke and Camden writes Borough came ouer Lord Deputy The ill successe of the treaties and small progresse of the warres together with this vnexpected change of the Lord Deputy comming with supreme authority as well in martiall as ciuill causes brake the heart of Sir Iohn Norryes Lord Generall a leader as worthy and famous as England bred in our age Of late according to vulgar speech he had displeased the Earle of Essex then a great fauourite in Court and by his merites possessed of the superintendency in all martiall affaires For Sir Iohn Norryes had imbraced the action of Brest Fort in Britany and the warres in those parts when the Earle himself had purpose to entertaine them and preuailed against the Earle by vndertaking them with lesse forces then the Earle desired for the same And it was thought that the Earle had preferred the Lord Bourgh of purpose to discontent him in regard the said Lord Bourgh had had a priuate quarrell with the said Generall in England and that besides the superiour command of this Lord though otherwise most worthy yet of lesse experience in the warres then the Generall had could not but be vnsupportable to him esteemed one of the greatest Captaines of his time and yet hauing inferiour command of the Presidentship of Mounster in the same Kingdome Certainely vpon the arriuall of this new Lord Deputy presently Generall Norryes was commanded to his gouernement of Mounster and not to stirre thence without leaue When he came thither this griefe so wrought vpon his high spirit as it apparantly brake his braue and formerly vndaunted heart for without sickenes or any publike signe of griefe he suddenly died in the imbrace of his deere brother Sir Thomas Norreys his vicepresident within some two moneths of his comming into Mounster The Lord Bourgh at his entry into the place of Lord Deputy found all the North in Rebellion except seuen Castles with their Townes or Villages all but one lying towards the sea namely Newry Knockfergus Carlingford Greene-Castle Armagh Dondrom and Olderfleet And all Connaght was likewise in Rebellion together with the Earle of Ormonds nephewes the Butlers in Mounster In this moneth of May Ororke was sent into England by the King of Scots and there executed This Ororke seemes to haue beene expelled his Countrey when Sir Richard Bingham was Gouernour of Connaght but those of his name and the chiefe of them vsurping the Countrey of Letrym still continued Rebels Tyrone hitherto with all subtilty and a thousand sleights abusing the State when he saw any danger hanging ouer him by fained countenance and false words pretended humblest submission and hearty sorrow for his villanies but as soone as opportunity of pursuing him was omitted or the forces were of necessity to be drawne from his Countrey with the terror of them all his loyalty vanished yea he failed not to mingle secretly the greatest Counsels of mischiefe with his humblest submissions And these courses had beene nourished by the sloth of our Leaders the frugality of some of our counsellers and the Queenes inbred lenity yet of all other he had most abused the late Lord Generals loue to him and his credulity which specially grew out of his loue Now of this new Lord Deputy by letters hee requested a truce or cessation which it seemed good to the Lord Deputy to grant for a moneth in regard of the conueniency of her Maiesties present affaires not any way to gratifie the Rebell for he had no purpose to entertaine more speech of his submission or to slacke the pursuit of him and his confederates to which he was wholly bent He saw the lamentable effects which these cessations together with protections had hitherto produced and among other euils did specially resolue to auoid them Therefore assoone as the moneth of truce was expired the Lord Deputy aswell by his first actions to giue luster and ominous presage to his gouernement as because he iudged it best for the seruice to strike at the head presently drew the Forces towards Tyrone The Irish in a fastnes neere Armagh so they call straight passages in woods where to the natural strength of the place is added the art of interlacing the low bowes and casting the bodies of trees acrosse the way opposed the passage of the English who made their way with their swords and found that the Irish resolutely assaulted would easily giue ground Then the Lord Deputy assaulted the Fort of Blackewater formerly built by the English vpon the passage to Dungannon whence the Eurle at his first entering into rebellion had by force expelled the English as carefully as he would haue driuen poyson from his heart This Fort he soon wonne and repayring the same put a company of English souldiers into it to guard it But 〈◊〉 the Lord Deputy with the whole army were rendering thanks to God for this good succesle the 〈◊〉 shewed themselues out of the thicke woods neere adioyning on the North-side of the Fort so as the prayers were interrupted by calling to armes The English entered 〈◊〉 and preuayled against them driuing them to styeinto the thickest of their dens In this conflict were killed Francis Vaughan
thinke whom we know to be honest diligent and a sufficient seruant that we doe touch you in the least degree with lacke of sinceritie or desire to doe vs seruice for of both these Wee haue great reason to take gratious recognition but rather to let you to know how sensible We are of the clamour how negligent your Deputies haue been in many places to charge Vs here how great portion of treasures is due by your certificats and how necessary it is seeing but by this coyne those expences cannot be borne that all super fluous charge be cut off and this matter of the exchange corrected in some degree or other before like a Canker it consumes Our treasure which is the sinewes of our Crowne We pray you therefore as We doe meane here to doe with Our priuie Counsell call to you some three or foure of that Counsell of the best vnderstanding and thinke among you of some better cautions for this matter of exchange wherein seeing We doe see the State of that Kingdome principally with your eyes We shall be contented to incline most to those courses which you shall find conuenient And because no day goeth ouer our head wherein we are sure there is not some increase to that loade Wee doe hereby giue you Our Deputie authoritie without tarrying to aduertise Vs of your opinion one way or other to publish a Proclamation or order either for tolleration or explanation of the forme of Our former institutions which shall seeme best to you with consideration of all due circumstances not doubting but you shall finde many things which were fit for Vs to suffer in the beginning which by change of circumstances may now be altered And because in these matters of paiments which flow like bloud out of the vaines time is pretious if there be any thing which you and that Counsell shall find fit to be done for preuention of some part of this abundant consumption growing by the freedome of all persons to haue the exchange seeing the distance of place to be passed by sea is subiect to length and vncertaintie We are content prouisionally to warrant your proceedings in any thinh you doe or publish in Our name It remaineth now that We doe satisfie you Our Deputie of some other things contained in your priuate letters to the Secretary First for your doubt you may not vse your best meanes to explore the practices of Spaine and the inward treasons of the Rebell because your Ministers may often prooue vnhonest Wee haue no more to say then this That if you consider that We haue trusted you as absolutely with that Kingdome as euer We did Deputie you neede make small doubt of any other interpretation of your actions in that point towards you for when soeuer the greatest curiositie shall censure our actions it shall neuer appeare where Wee see faith and dutie onely intentionall in origine that Wee would be willing to censure the actions of Our Ministers according to the successe And therefore as We doe leaue liberty here in England to Our Secretary of State to employ such persons as are likest to discouer practises though Wee allow not any immediate treaties or corespondencies with subiects of other Prouinces but where We are particularly acquainted with it so doe We giue you warrant by such ordinarie meanes as may bee taken by opportunity of persons to passe to and fro vnder colours of trade or traffick to forraigne parts to informe your selfe of the enemies preparations in such things as belongs thereunto that you may be able from time to time to fashion your owne present proceedings according to such aduertisements as may be brought you seeing you may sometimes receiue them with more expedition and more freedome for things concerning that Realme then they can bee vsually conuaied to our Ministers here from those whom they imploy for our seruice from whence you haue seene what iudgement We haue made all this yeere of their distraction and weakenesse though We stick not in some measure to prouide for you though farre short of that which Wee must haue done if Wee had credited those bruites which were brought into that Kingdome by such as We are perswaded if it were wel obserued came out of Spaine ful of deuice and practice to blow that abroad which they beleeued not Next concerning your opinion for the ordering of some prouinciall Gouernements and making your residence at Athloue for the place VVee know it is scituate very well to answere all seruices and as things stand Vlster hath neede of good distribution now as much as Connaght wherein as VVe can very well like that you doe prepare for residence in that place whereby the limits of Our Pale may bee enlarged so VVe wish you that both in Vlster and in Connaght you doe fashion the commandment in such sort as one Gouernour haue not too much Countrie to rule for where men are more absolute then ordinary they are commonly apt to vse things with lesse care and moderation so as in that matter VVee confesse to you that VVee had rather haue many good subiects imployed in many places then any one to manage too much For the matter of charge of your residence because we know not what charge belongs vnto it to make the place capable nor how it may stand with the State of the Towne of Dublyn which is a Port and not to be ouerthrowne standing so commodiously for passage out of England We would haue all circumstances wel considered and then you shall receiue more of Our direction Lastly for Tyrone We doe so much mislike to giue him any grace that hath beene the onely author of so much effusion of bloud and the most vngratefull Viper to Vs that raised him and one that hath so often deceiued Vs both when hee hath craued his pardon and when he hath receiued it of Vs as when Wee consider how much the VVorld will impute to Vs of weakenesse to shew fauour to him now as if without that we could not giue an ende to this Rebellion VVee still remaine determined not to giue him grace in any kinde And seeing it is vnsafe for any Prince to make all faults appeare veniall because euery offender will thereby become insolent and seeing in common reason the cutting off so many associates must needes haue left him a bodie without limmes and so not worthy Our respecting VVee doe very well allow of your late reiecting him For when VVee looke on his manner of seeking mercy at all times VVe doe still certainely conclude that it is done vpon some practise to serue some present turne seeing one day hee onely desires simple mercy for his life and another day falles to capitulate neither can VVee see why so much depends vpon his reduction when for ought VVe know no man can aduise vs if hee should come in and bee at libertie hereafter out of Our hands how VVee could bee so assured of him but that still Wee must bee in
Burgundians who in the Raigne of Charles the seuenth and in the yeere 1422 by a sudden conspiracy cast out and killed the Burgundians lying there in garrison and salted their dead bodies in a vessell of stone which they shew to this day They name three iurisdictions or commonalties which it seems of old had foolish and great priuiledges La Basoche de Paris Les Cornards de Rouen La Mere Folle de Dijon Of the Cities they say Paris la grande the Great Rouen la riche the Rich Orleans la belle the Faire Dijon la Folle the Foolish Anger 's basse ville hauts clochers riches putaines pounres Escoliers Low City high Steeples rich Whores poore Schollars They say vulgarly Les Badauts the Fooles or as we say Cocknies di Paris Les Cornards the foresaid society of horned Di Rouen Les Gue spins the word hath some reference to Vespae a Latin word signifying those that carry dead bodies to be buried by night but the French can hardly giue a true signification of it d'Orleans Les Copienx the copious for their art in ieasting de Flesche Les fanx tosmoings the false witnesses quatorze pour vn'fromage foureteene for a Cheese du Manz 〈◊〉 the nouices or simple men de Solongne qui s'abusent toussiours a leur profit which are abused alwaies to their owne profit as if vnder colour of simplicity they were most crafty Of three Cities of Champaigne Les Graniers the Garners as full of Corne de Challons Les Caues the Cellars as full of wine de Reims Les Bourses the Purses as full of money de Troyes They say vulgarly Ily a plue de Monmartre a Paris que de Paris a Monmartre This speech Ily a is ambiguous or of diuers significations vulgarly it should be thus vnderstood It is further from Monmartre to Paris then from Paris to Monmartre but in this place it is thus meant There is more of Monmartre within Paris then of Paris vpon Monmartre because almost all the Houses of Paris are plastered ouer and the matter of this plaster is daily brought into Paris from Monmartre Also A Monmartre Ily a plus de Putains que de vaches Mais ostes en les Nonnains Ily aura plus de vaches que de Putains At Monmartre there be more Whores then Cowes But take away the Nunnes and there will be more Cowes then Whores Also Fromages Cheeses d' Auuergne Angelots a kinde of Cheese de Brie Andouilles Intrals or Trypes de Troye Saueisses Sawsages du Pont l'Euesque Chapons Capons du Mans. Moutarde Mustard de Dijon Pruneaux Prunes de Tours Marrons great Chesnuts de Lyon Pain d'espice Spiced Bread de Reims Raues rape rootes de Limosin Pesches Peaches de Corheil pain Bread de Genesse The Italiaus say that the manner of the French is Di non dire quando vogliono fare di non legger ' come Scriuotio e di non santare come notano Not to speake that they will doe not to reade as they write not to sing as they pricke England in generall is said to be the Hell of Horses the Purgatory of Seruants and the Paradice of Weomen The Londiners pronounce woe to him that buyes a Horse in Smyth-field that takes a Seruant in Pauls-Church that marries a Wife out of Westminster Londiners and all within the sound of Bow-Bell are in reproch called Cocknies and eaters of buttered tostes The Kentish men of old were said to haue ray les because trafficking in the Low-Countries they neuer paid full payments of what they did owe but still left some part vnpaid Essex men are called calues because they abound there Lankashire egge-pies and to be wonne by an Apple with a red side Norsorlke wyles for crafty litigiousnes Essex stiles so many as make walking tedious Kentish miles of the length Northumberland men exercised in roades vpon the Scots are accounted best light Horsemen Cornish men best Horse riders and Wrastlers and most actiue men Lincolneshire Belles and Bag pipes Deuonshire Whitepots Tewksbery Mustard Banberry Cakes Kings-Norten Cheese Sheffeld kniues Darby Ale are prouerbially spoken of I hastily passed through part of Scotland bordering vpon England and had no skill in the Irish tongue so as I obserued no such Prouerbs in those Kingdomes The second Booke CHAP. I. Of the fit meanes to trauell and to hire Coaches and Horses HEreof I must intreate briefely and howsoeuer the subiect be large yet I wil compendiously restraine this my discourse praying him that desireth more plaine instruction in any particular to reade the following discourse in this third Part of these Nations diet in generall and expences in their Innes as also to gather particular obseruations for his vse out of my daily iournies related in the first Part. The greatest part of Germany is a plaine Countrie with few Hilles and almost no Mountaines but it is full of vast Woods and the soile is either sandy or for the most part drie and little subiect to durt so as they vse commonly Coaches for their iournies which are easily to be found in any City neither shall a passenger long stay for companions to fill vp the Coach so as by this constant manner of trauelling hee shall not be put to any extraordinary charge From Hamburg to Nurnberg being nine daies iourney I remember that sixe of vs in company hired a coach for fifty dollers That fiue of vs for two dayes iournies paid fiue dollers That foure of vs for three daies iorney payed seuen dollers for our Coach But in our iourney from Hamburg to Nurnberg we paied for our Coachmans diet himselfe paying for his horses meate whereas in the other iournies he paied also for his owne diet The ordinary Coaches hold sixe consorts but those of Nurnberg receiue eight bearing two in each boote on the sides But if companions bee not readily found to fill the Coach the passengers shall doe better in going forward with such company as they haue and the Coachmen will rather goe for lesse then stay in the Inne and spend more in expecting the full number The top of the Coaches is made with round hoopes couered with lether or for the most part with black cloath which are buckled together in the middest when it raines or the weather is cold for otherwise the hoopes fastned with staples of Iron to the body of the coach fall backward to the ends so as the passengers may sit in the open aire In lower Germany a passenger commonly payes about foure Lubeck shillings for each meale In middle Germany he shall pay about foure Batzen And in higher Germany he shall pay about sixe or seuen batzen each meale and all passengers sit at one common table At the foote of the Alpes where the fall of waters make the waies durty they vse to ride on horsebacke Sweitzerland consists of hilles and Mountaines so as they likewise trauell on horsebacke And there the passenger shall commonly pay some fiue or sixe batzen each meale The horses in both places are to bee
The Turkes Polonians Sweitzers Bohemians Danes English Scots and Irish haue few Forts or fortified places The Kings of England haue caused such to be dismantled and puld downe as incouragement to the Nobles to contemne their authoritie onely at Barwick against the bordering Scots and at 〈◊〉 against the neighbouring French they haue maintained fortifications to hinder incursion The Turkes neither fortifie themselues nor maintaine the strong places they haue conquered from Christians In Denmarke the Citic Kopenhagen and in Poland Crakaw and Warsaw are in some sort fortified And in Ireland the English of late haue made small Forts vpon some few Hauens to preuent forraigne inuasion and in some inland territories to suppresse the rebellious inclination of some Irish Lords Otherwise in the said Kingdomes if any Cities be compassed with walles they are ready to fall for age and are rather fit to resist the first fury of ill armed mutiners then to indure a sharpe siege or the very sight of the Cannon Like are most of the Cities in Italy only at Naples and at Milan there be two strong forts and at Rome a strong Castle and in Lombardy and especially in the State of Venice many Cities and some Forts made as strong as huge charge and exquisit art can make them CHAP. III. Of Germany Boemerland and Sweitzerland touching the Geographicall description the situation the fertilitie the trafficke and the diet THE Geographers search out the greatnesse of the Globe and of all the parts in the superficies thereof by the helpe of the Celestiall circles fitted to the Conuex or bending of the earth The circles of heauen are of two sorts the greater and the lesse The greater are sixe in number the AEquator Zodiake two Colun Meridian and Horizon Of which the Geographers in the description of the World onely make vse of the AEquator and Meridian The AEquator compasseth the middle swelling of the 〈◊〉 Sphere betweene both the Poles of the world and the greatest conuexitie or bending therof from the East towards the West to which circle when the Sun is come by his proper motion in each yeere twice it makes two Equinoctials that is day and night of equall length one in the Spring the other at the fall of the leafe The circle in the conuex or bending superficies of the earth that is directly and perpendicularly vnder the said AEquator is called the AEquator of the earth and compassing the earth from the East to the West diuides it into two Hemispheres that is halfe Spheres the Northerne and the Southerne The Meridian Circle is drawne through the Poles of the Heauen in which the Meridians meete and through the verticall point that is the point right ouer head of each place whether the Sunne being come by his accidentall motion in each day it makes noone aboue the Horizon and midnight vnder the Horizon or with the Antipodes The Circle in the conuex or bending of the earth directly and perpendicularly vnder this circle Meridian passing by the extreme points of the earth that are vnder the Poles and by any appointed place in the superficies or vpper face of the earth is called a Meridian of the earth And because there is no certaine number of particular places on the earth it follows that the Meridians are innumerable so as euery place distant from another towards the East or West hath his owne peculiar Meridian diuers from the Meridian of another place Yet for making of maps and like vses the Geographers appoint one hundred eighty Meridians namely ninty Easterly and nintie Westerly The lesser circles are called Paralells that is equally distant because hauing relation one to the other or to any of the great circles they are in all parts equally distant For al lesser circles haue relation to one of the greater and are called the paralells of this or that greater circle But here onely mention is made of the Paralells referred to the AEquator which are lesser circles drawne neere the AEquator from East towards West or contrary by the vertical points of seueral places in heauen or by the places themselues in the vpper face of the earth they are the greater the neerer they are to the AEquator the lesser as they are more distant from the same towards either Pole and the Geographeis call them Northerne Paralells which are neare the AEquator in the Northerne Hemisphere and Southerne Paralells which are so drawne in the Southerne Hemisphere Also as there is no certaine number of particular places so the Paralells are innumerable in so much as each place vpon the vpper face of the earth distant from another towards the North or South hath his pecular verticall Paralell Yet vsually the Geographers number 180 Paralells namely ninty Northerne and ninty Southerne Of this number are the foure Paralells which include the foure Zones or girdles by which the vpper face of the earth is distinguished into Climes and the AEquator in the middest of them and greatest of them is ioyned to them and makes the fifth Zone The whole circle of the AEquator or Meridian containes 360 degrees whereof each consists of 60 minutes About 500 stadia make a degree 125 paces make a stadium an Italian mile makes 8 stadia a French mile 12 a German mile 32 so as 1 degree containes 62 Italian miles and a half or 15 common German miles and a half and half quarter Although the earth be conuex or bending and sphericall orround yet in a certaine respect they giue to the same from West to East or contrarily a Longitude in the AEquator and Paralells and like wise from the South to the North or contrarily a Latitude in the Meridians And howsocuer the earth in his vpper face by nature hath neither beginning nor ending yet they appoint the artificiall beginning of the Longitude in the Meridian Circle drawne by the Fortunate or Canary Ilands and therefore call it the first Meridian and so proceeding from it towards the West or the East they reckon the Longitude of the earth For example two Meridians being drawne the first by the Canary Ilands the second by any place whose situation is inquired as many degrees as are sound in the Paralell circle proper to the said place from the first Meridian to the proper Meridian of the place of so many degrees is the Longitude of that place said to be In like sort the circle AEquator and the Paralell circle of the place whose situation is inquired being drawne as many degrees as are included in the Meridian circle of that place from the AEquator to the Paralell of the place of so many degrees is the Latitude of that place said to bee As the Paralells are of two sorts so is the Latitude namely Northerne from the AEquator towards the Northerne Pole and Southerne from the same towards the Southerne Pole Also the Longitude in like sort but imaginarily is said to be Easterly
it aboundeth with Wood but towards the Sea they burne Turfe made of earth and also burne Cow dung 3 The County of Hanaw hath the Principality of Arscot vnited to the Dukedome of Brabant by which the Dukes sonne hath the title of Prince The chiefe Cities of this County are Mons and Valinciennes It hath mines yeelding Leade and Marble of many colours and a good kind of Coales 4 The County of Zeland is by situation the first of the Vnited Prouinces consisting of many Ilands whereof seuen are principall and the chiefe is Walcherne the chiefe Citie whereof is Midleburg famous for trafficke and the Staple for Spanish and French Wines Neere that is the City Vlishing strongly fortified being the chiefe of the Forts then ingaged to the Crowne of England and kept by an English Garrison vnder the command of Sir Robert Sidney Knight for the second Fort ingaged to England lyes in another Iland and is called Brill being then kept by an English Garrison vnder the command of the Lord Barrows All these Ilands are fertile and yeeld excellent Corne more plentifully then any other Prouince so as one aker thereof is said to yeeld double to an aker of Brabant But they haue no sweete water nor good aire and for want of wood burne turffe They take plenty of sea-fishes which they Salt and carry into other Countries Madder for dying of wooll growes there plentifully which likewise they export and grow rich by selling these commodities as likewise Spanish and French Salt and like trafficke 5 The County of Holland called of old Battauia and inhabited by the Chatti as Tacitus writes is in situation the second of the vnited Prouinces but the first in dignity The Cities whereof are Amstelrodam famous for trafficke Rhoterodam where Erasmus was borne Leyden an Vniuersity Harlem Dort the staple for the Rhenish Wines and Delph all very faire Cities And I may not omit the most pleasant Village of the Hage called Grauenhage because the Counts Court was there and it is now the seate of the vnited States wanting onely wals to make it numbred among the most pleasant Cities being no doubt a Village yeelding to none for the pleasant seat This Prouince doth so abound with lakes pooles of water and artificiall ditches as it giues passage by water as well as by land to euery City and poorest Village which are infinite in number And these ditches itoweth for the most part to the Riuer Rheine For the Rheine of old running towards Leyden did fall a little below it into the Sea but at this day by reason the Land is low and subiect to ouerflowings it hath changed the bed and at Lobecum in the Dukedome of Cleue deuides it selfe into many branches The first runnes to Arnheim a City of Gelderland then to Vaua Rena and Battouodurum where Lecca receiues his waters and takes away the name from the Rheine yet so as a little branch thereof still holds the name of Rheine which running to Mastricht there deuides into two one whereof fals into Vecta and so into an arme of the Sea neere Munda the other runnes by Woerden and after a long course necre Leyden is deuided into fiue little branches whereof three fall into a lake and the fourth turnes to Renoburg and leeseth it selfe in mountaines of sand neere the Village Catwicke I remember that the water falling through Leyden is called Rheine so as I thinke it probable that all the standing waters lying betweene the seuerall pastures there come from the Rheine after it hath lost the name I said that the Rheine at Battouodurum is called Lecca which runnes to Culenburg and to Viana where in a ditch is the fountaine of Isala which runnes to 〈◊〉 Thus to omit the little branch at Battouodurum the first branch of the Rheine is lost in the Riuers Lecca and Isala The second branch bends from Lobecum to Neomagum and fals into the Brooke Meroutus taking the name of the old Family of Kings among the Gals where is an old Castle compassed with the Brooke and of the same name then running to Dort in Holland it receiues the foresaid Lecca and Isala and so neere Rhoterodame fals into the Mosa and vnder that name fals neere Brill into the German Sea The third branch of the Rheine running from Lobecum within two miles of Arnheime fals into the ditch of Drusus or rather of Germanicus and so runnes to Dewsborows the City of Drusus where it receiues the old Isala springing in Westphalia and by the name of Isala or Isell running to Zutphane and then to Deuentry fals into Tatus at Amstelrodame and by an arme of the Sea is carried to West-Freesland and so fals into the German Sea neere the Iland Flye 5 To returne to my purpose Holland is little in circuite but abounds with people and dwellings and being poore of it selfe is most rich by industrie and wanting both Wine and Corne yet furnisheth many Nations with both Neither Wooll nor Flax grow there but of both brought in to them they make linnen clothes much prised and also Woollen both carried to the very Indies I need not speake of Holland Cheeses so vulgarly knowne and much esteemed Lastly Holland is famous for the traffique of all commodities and the Romans so highly esteemed the Fortitude and faithfulnes of the old Battani as they had a Band of them for their Guard 6 The County of Zutphane is accompted part of Gelderland and subdued by the States Arinie was ioyned to the vnited Prouinces in the yeere 1591. 7 The County of Namures so called of the Cheese Citie hath Mines of Iron and plenty of stony Coale contrarie to all other Coales in that it is quenched by the infusion of Oyle It hath also an ill smell which they take away by the sprinckling of Salt and it burnes more cleere hauing water cast vpon it This County hath also quarries of Free-stone and of Marble of diuers colours 8 The Dukedome of Luxenburg hath the name of the chiefe Citie and the inhabitants of the vpper part are Germanes but they of the lower parts are like the French in language and Manners 9 The Dukedom of Brabant hath faire Cities namely Antwerp most famous before the ciuil War because Maximilian of Austria brought thither frō Bruges in Flanders the famous traffique of all Nations by a ditch drawne to Sluce onely to bee failed vpon at the flowing of the Sea tides At this day forsaken of Merchants it lies ouergrowne with grasse and the said trafficke inricheth Holland and the vnited Prouinces The next City is Brissell of old the seate of the Dukes and now of the Spanish Gouernours Then Louan a famous Vniuersity Then Mechlin subiect to the vnited States Then Bergen-ap-zome a fortified City at this time committed to the custody of Sir Thomas Morgan Knight with an English Garrison The Inhabitants of this Dukedome were of old called Tungri 10 The Dukedome of Limburg hath Mastricht for the chiefe City
the chiefe City by the Lattines called Mediomatricum and Metis is now vulgarly called Metz which City the King of France tooke in the yeere 1551 from the Empire in the time of the Emperor Charles the fifth who besieged the same long but in vaine the Kings of France still holding it The Dukedome of Burgundy belonged of old to the Empire but is now subiect to the Kings of France the chiefe City whereof is Dijon where the Parliament of the whole Dukedome is held It hath other Cities namely Beaulue Challon Chastillon Noyres and a place called Bourgougne which gaue the name to the Dukedome yet others write that it had the name of Bourges that is Townes The County of Burgundy belonged of old to the Empire but is now subiect to the King of Spaine whose progenitor married the daughter and heire of the Duke of Burgundy at which time the Kings of France tooke the foresaid Dukedome from the said daughter and heire And this County is vulgarly called Franche Conte as free from tributes It hath two free Cities Dole an Vniuersity and Besancon 2 The second part of Transalpina Gallia is Narbonensis which onely at this day yet not all may truly be called Gallia It was of old called Braccata of the Inhabitants apparell and is called Narbonensis of the chiefe City Narbona lying vpon the Riuer Athesis neere the Mediterranean Sea which Strabo witnesseth to haue beene of old a famous City for trafficke The Riuer Rhodanus runnes through it which falling from the Alpes and increased by Araris but still retaining the first name fals into the Mediterranean Sea This part called Narbonensis by the benefit of the Ayre and Sunne yeelds Figges Grapes Cytrons Peaches Pomegranates Chessenuts rich Wine and all delicate fruites and all the fields are made odoriferous by wild Rosemary Myrtels Palmetrees and many sweete hearbes and the Inhabitants haue lately planted Canes of sugar To conclude the Prouince is very pleasant and plentifull in all things On the West side of Rhodanus the Tectosages dwelt of old in the Prouince called Languadoc hauing that name because the Inhabitants vse Oc for the French Ouy The chief Cities thereof are Narbona aforesaid Mompeliers of old a famous Vniuersity Clermont The Dukedome of Sauoy lies in a corner from the alps to the mediterranean Sea of old inhabited by the Focuntij and it lying on the same side of the Alpes with France is reckoned a part thereof but the Duke thereof is an absolute Prince and the chiefe City is Chambery The Prouince is very fertile and where it is more barren yet affoordes excellent fruites and all things for foode at a conuenient price Dolphiny lies betweene the Riuer Rhodanus and the Dukedome of Sauoy and giues the name of Dolphin to the French Kings eldest sonne Prouence is a most sweete Territory and hath the Cities Marseile famous by trade with the Turkes Arles and Auignon subiect to the Pope for when many Popes were at one time Iohn the two and twentieth did long sit in this City giuen by Ioane Queene of Naples to the Popes in the time of Clement the sixth alienated from the Kingdome of Naples by her and annexed to the Patrimony of Saint Peter in the yeere 1360. The Principalitie of Orange is an absolute dominion hauing the chiefe City of the same name and seated betweene Languedoc Dolphiny and the Popes Territorie of Auignon The ayre of the Northerne part of France is purer then that of England and being not couered with cloudes drawne out of the Sea as England is for that cause in winter becomes more cold and in summer more hot and farre lesse annoied with mists rainy weather But on the other side more lesse according to the clyme the parts of France lying towards the Mountaines Pirenei and neerer to the Equinoctiall line are subiect to intemperate heate yet often allaied by the winds blowing from the Sea and by the shaddow of the Mountaines This Southerly part yeeldes all the fruites of Italy and in the Northerly parts as in Normandy they haue abundance of Apple and Peare trees of which they make great quantity of Sider and Perry and this part as towards the Sea it yeelds also plenty of Corne so within Land it affoords the like of Wines And in the very Northerly Iland called France they haue plenty of Grapes vpon pleasant hils watered with sweet Riuers but the wine made of them is small and sharpe All France is most pleasant and not onely about Narbona but in many other territories according to the commodity of the clime it yeelds great plenty of red and white wines exported in great quantity which are held excellent to be drunke the white in the moaning and the red with meate which red is otherwise reputed vnholsome as prouoking and causing rhumes France aboundeth with all things necessary for food as well Corne as Cattell red Deare Fowle and also with all kinds of Fish by reason it is partly compassed with the Sea and vpon all sides is watered with sweete Riuers For fier they vse wood and coales yet haue they no pit coales or sea coales but haue their sea eoales out of England for their Smiths Forges and where they haue lesse store of wood within land there they burne straw furres and other kinds of stubble They haue good races of Horses which the greater part vse in the Warre who are not able to buy Neapolitan Coursers Spanish lanets or English Coursers bred of the Neapolitan Horses and English Mares but for their iournies they haue no Gueldings or ambling Nagges as wee haue but commonly vse trotting and stoned Nagges The Gentlemen doe not meddle with trafficke either because it was of old forbidden to great Lords and Gentlemen lest the Kings impositions should thereby suffer domage they being by singular priuiledges exempted and freed from all such burthens or because in deed they thinke such trafficke ignoble and base and so vnfit fot them which error the French no lesse deerely buy then the English as I haue shewed in the discourse of Italy and shall againe proue in that of England In generall the French are lesse studious of Nauigation or industrious in that kind because they abound almost with all things for plentifull foode and rich attire and if they want any thing strangers gladly bring it to them and exchange it for their wines salt and course linnen cloaths neither haue I heard or read that they euer did any braue exploit by sea They haue in time of warre some few men of warre for piracy and some few ships to export their commodities but they saile onely to neighbour Countries as out of Normandy and Bretaigne into England Ireland and the Low-Countries and onely those of Marseile to Tripoli in Syria As for the Colonies which in our Age they haue led into the West Indies their vnhappy successe therein hath discouraged them from like new attempts And whosoeuer sees their rich Cities within
Land witnessing that their wealth consists in natiue commodities more then trading by Sea may easily guesse that they are not much addicted to Nauigation The French haue many commodities by which they draw forraigne Coynes to them but foure especially Wine Salt Linnen course cloth and Corne which in that respect some call the loadestones of France Neither is it a matter of small moment that they haue many Riners giuing commodity to the mutuall trafficke of their Cities They haue plenty of Flaxe and Hempe whereof they make canuas sayles ropes and cables Neither want they wooll whereof they make cloth little inferiour to the English cloth but not in quantity to be exported Bourdeaux is a famous City for exportation of Wines as Rochell and the neighbour Ports are no lesse for Salt France yeeldeth Saffron and Oade for dying which they call Du Pastell and many small commodities to be exported as Cards Pinnes Paper and the like yea they export into Spaine linnen cloathes made thinne with wearing and sell them there for a good price The Spaniards bring into France some quantity of wooll raysons Oliues Oyle Cytrons and other fruites whereof France needes no great quantity and Cochenillo for dying The Fortingals bring into France holy Thistle an hearbe like a white thorne hauing leaues like cotten on them and sugar and diuers kinds of Indian wood as 〈◊〉 Schomache Fustocke and Logwood and a smal quantity of Dates And these carry out of France great quantity of Linnen cloth which we call white Roanes and greater quantity of vittree Canuas and Paper some woollen cloth much Corne especially Wheate good quantity of waxe and cardes and the like commodities The English bring into France great quantity of woollen-cloaths called Kersies and Cottons Leade Tynne English Vitriall or Shooemakers blacke sheepe skinnes and by stealth other Hides forbidden to be exported great quantity of Hearrings and new found land Fish dried of wooll though forbidden to be exported Oyle Soape tunned Soape ashes old worne cloakes and I know not to what vse very old shooes with other natiue and forraigne commodities And they bring from thence Linnen cloathes called white Roanes and Vitree Canuas Paper white and red wines in great quantity Threed Saffron Waxe and from Paris Gold and siluer The Hollanders bring into France two or three kindes of their Linnen cloathes Copper Feathers and Wier and they carry thence the foresaid Linnen cloathes Wines Prunes Paper and the aboue named commodities The French carry into Italy Tinne Lead dry fish called Poore Iohn brought to them by the English and their owne aboue named commodities And they bring out of Italy silke cloaths and other Italian commodities Among the French onely those of Marseile trafficke with the Turkes and their greatest trade is onely at Tripoli in Syria who carry into Turkey Spanish siluer and French Linnen cloathes and bring from thence raw silke spices gals cotton and Indico for dying Old Writers relate that the Gals vsed to lie on the ground to feed on milke and Swines flesh and to be giuen to gluttony At this day none eate lesse Bacon or dried flesh for ordinary diet then the French yet I cannot commend their temperance since all as well Men as Weomen besides dinner and supper vse breakefasts and beuers which they call collations and gouster so eating foure times in the day All France abounds with necessaries for food as well all kinds of Cattle as fruites not inferiour in some places to those of Italy and wild Boares and Red Deare for they haue no fallow Deare and Birds and Fowle and all kinds of Fish affoorded by the Sea and their many pleasant riuers but their Beef is neither very good nor much vsed Their Sheep are lesse then ours in England but the flesh of them is sweete and sauoury In the Innes they haue greater plenty of Partridges and diuers kinds of Birds because the Countrey people neither doe nor may eate them and the Gentlemen are generally sparing in their ordinary diet so as great plenty of these dainties is brought to the chiefe Innes Howsoeuer England be happy in all aboundance and hath some dainties for food proper to it selfe as God wits and some other kinds of Sea Fowle and especially fallow Deare and Brawne Though it passeth France generally in plenty of Sea Fowles and as well the variety as plenty of Sea fishes yet hath it not such aboundance as France hath of Land Fowle or such as haunt the woods and fields as Partridges Feasants Woodcocks and the like or at least by reason of the common sort not feeding thereon and the said spare ordinary diet of the Gentlemen France seemeth much more to abound with them being common in all the chiefe Innes I speake of England in generall for in some places they so abound with vs as they beare little or no price The French are commended and said to excell others in boyled meates sawces and made dishes vulgarly called Quelques choses but in my opinion the larding of their meates is not commendable whereby they take away all variety of taste making all meates sauor of Porke and the French alone delight in mortified meates They vse not much whitmeates nor haue I tasted there any good Butter which our Ambassadours cause to be brought vnto them out of England and they haue onely one good kinde of Cheeses called Angelots pleasing more for a kind of sharpenesse in taste then for the goodnesse As well the Gentlemen as Citizens liue more sparingly then the English in their ordinary priuate diet and haue not their Tables so furnished with variety and number of dishes They dine most with sodden and liquid meates and sup with roasted meates each hauing his seuerall sawce but their Feasts are more sumptuous then ours and consist for the most part of made fantasticall meates and sallets and sumptuous compositions rather then of flesh or birds And the cookes are most esteemed who haue best inuention in new made and compounded meats And as in al things the French are chearefull and nimble so the Italians obserue that they eate or swallow their meate swiftly and adde that they are also slouenly at meate but I would rather say they are negligent or carelesse and little curious in their feeding And to this purpose I remember an accident that happened to a Frenchman eating with vs at the Masters table in a Venetian ship gouerned by Greekes and sailing from Venice to Ilierusalem who turning hir foule trencher to lay meat on the cleane side did so offend the Master and all the Marriners as well the best as common sort as they hardly refrained from offering him violence For Marriners in generall but especially the Greekes are so superstitious as they tooke this his negligence in turning his trencher being of like opinion for the turning of any thing in the ship vpside downe as if it had been an ominous signe that the ship should be cast away In a Village of Normandy halfe way
the English and Saint Dauids Ilands right ouer against the seate of the Bishop of Saint Dauy. Next is the 10 Iland called Enhly by the Welsh Britans and Berdsey as the I le of Birds by the English wherein they report that twenty thousand Saints lie buried Next lies 11 Mona that is the shadowed or dusky Iland which after many yeeres being conquered by the English was by them called Anglesey as the Iland of the English It is a most noble Iland the old seate of the Druides Priests so called of old and so fruitfull as it is vulgarly called the Mother of Wales the cheefe Towne whereof is Beaumarish Neere that lies 12 Prestholme that is the Priests Iland whereof the Inhabitants and Neighbours make incredible reports for the multitude of Sea Fowle there breeding Next followes 13 Mona or Monoeda as the farther Mona which we call the I le of Man the Inhabitants whereof are like the Irish in language and manners but haue something of the Norway men It yeeldes abundantly Flaxe and Hempe hath pleasant Pastures and Groues and is fruitfull of Barly Wheate and especially of Oates the people feeding on Oaten bread in all parts are multitudes of Cattle but it wants wood and for fier vseth a kind of Turffe Russia which of the Castle we call Castle-Towne is the cheefe Towne and hath a Garrison of Souldiers but Duglas is the most frequented and best inhabited Towne because it hath an excellent Hauen easie to be entered In the Westerne part Bala-curi is the seate of the Bishop vnder the primacy of the Archbishop of Yorke and there is the Fort called the Pyle wherein a garrison of Souldiers is kept Vpon the Southerne Promontory lies a little Iland called the Calfe of Man which aboundeth with Sea Birds called Puffins and a kind of Duckes engendered of rotten wood which the English call Barnacles In generall the Inhabitants haue their proper Tongue and Lawes and had their proper Coyne They abhorre from stealing and from begging and are wonderfully religious generally and most readily conforming themselues at this day to the Church of England and the people in the Northerne part speake like Scots and in the Southerne part like Irish. Edwin King of Northumberland subdued the Northerne people and subiected them to the Crowne of England yet with many changes of Fortune this Iland long had their owne Kings euen since the Normans conquered England and since the time that Iohn King of England passing into Ireland by the way subdued this Iland about the yeere 1210 till the Kingdome came to the Scots in the yeere 1266. After that time Mary the daughter of Reginald the last laid claime to the Iland before the King of England as supreme Lord of Scotland and when sheecould not preuaile William Montague her Kinseman tooke the Iland of Man by force which his Heire sold for a great summe of money in the yeere 1393 to William Scroope who being beheaded for Treason the Iland fell by right to Henry the fourth King of England who assigned the same to Henry Pearcy Earle of Northumberland with prouiso that he and his Heires at the coronation of the Kings of England should carry the Sword vulgarly called Lancaster Sword before the King but the same Persey being also killed in ciuill warre the King gaue that Iland to Stanlye from whom discend the Earles of Darby who kept the same till Ferdinand Earle of Darby dying without heire male and the Earledome falling to his Brother but this Iland to his Daughters as Heires generall Queene Elizabeth thinking it vnfit that Women should bee set ouer her Souldiers there in garrison gaue the keeping thereof to Sir Thomas Gerrard But King Iames the foureteenth of August in the fifth yeere of his Raigne granted by Letters Pattents this Iland with all things thereunto appertaining to Henry Earle of Northampton and Robert Earle of Saltsbury their Heires and Assignes for euer they vpon doing homage for the same presenting his Maiesty with two Falcons and his Heires and Successours at their Coronation in like sort with two Falcons And howsoeuer no vse or intent of this grant be mentioned in these Letters Pattents yet no doubt the grant was made to the vse of those vpon whose humble petition to his Maiesty the Letters Pattents were granted as therein is expressely declared namely of William Lord Stanly Earle of Darby heire male to Iohn Lord Stanly and of Elizabeth Countesse of Huntington Anne wife to the Lord Chandois and Francis wife to Sir Iohn Egerton Knight being the Heires generall of the said Iohn Lord Stanly The famous Riuer Thames fals into the German Ocean ouer against Zeland and before it fals into the same makes the 14 Iland Canuey vpon the Coast of Essex so low as it is often ouerflowed all but some higher hils to which the sheepe retire being some foure thousand in number the flesh whereof is of delicate taste and they are milked by young men Neere that is the 15 Iland Sheppey so called of the sheepe wherein is Quinborrough a most faire Castle kept by a Constable Without the mouth of Thames lie the shelfes or sands dangerous to Sea men which of the greatest are all called Goodwin sands where they say an Iland the patrimony of the same Earle Goodwinn was deuoured by the Sea in the yeere 1097. In the Britan Sea lies the 16 I le of Wight hauing in the Sea most plentifull fishing and the Land being so fruitfull as they export Corne besides that in all parts it hath plenty of Conies Hares Partridges and Feasanes and hath also two Parkes of Fallow Deare Also the sheepe feeding there vpon the pleasant hils yeeld wool in goodnesse next to the Fleeces of Lemster and Cotswold Flockes It hath sixe and thirty Townes and Castles and the Ecclesiasticall Iurisdiction thereof belongs to the Bishop of Wintchester Towards the West lie other Ilands pretented to be French but subiect to England namely 17 Gerzey whither condemned men were of old banished 18 Garnsey neither so great nor so fruitful but hauing a more commodious Hauen vpon which lies the Towne of Saint Peter both Ilands burne a weede of the Sea or Sea coales brought out of England and both speake the French Language I omit the seuen Iles called Siadae and others adioyning and will onely adde that the Ilands lie neere Cornewall which the Greekes called Hesperides the English call Silly and the Netherlanders call Sorlings being in number some 145 more or lesse whereof some yeeld Wheate all abound with Conies Cranes Swannes Hirnshawes and other Sea Birdes The greatest of them is called Saint Mary and hath a Castle wherein Souldiers lie in Garrison committed in our time to the keeping of Sir Francis Godolphin and after to his sonne Sir William Godolphin being of a noble Family in Cornewall Also many of the said Ilands haue vaines of Tynne and from hence was Leade first carried into Greece and the Roman Emperours banished condemned men hither to
worke in the Mines of mettall The ayre of England is temperate but thicke cloudy and misty and Caesar witnesseth that the cold is not so piercing in England as in France For the Sunne draweth vp the vapours of the Sea which compasseth the Iland and distills them vpon the earth in frequent showers of raine so that frosts are somewhat rare and howsoeuer Snow may often fall in the Winter time yet in the Southerne parts especially it seldome lies long on the ground Also the coole blasts of Sea winds mittigate the heat of Summer By reason of this temper Lawrell and Rosemary flourish all Winter especially in the Southerne parts and in Summer time England yeelds Abricots plentifully Muske melons in good quantity and Figges in some places all which ripen well and happily imitate the taste and goodnesse of the same fruites in Italy And by the same reason all beasts bring forth their young in the open fields euen in the time of Winter and England hath such aboundance of Apples Peares Cherries and Plummes such variety of them and so good in all respects as no countrie yeelds more or better for which the Italians would gladly exchange their Citrons and Oranges But vpon the Sea coast the winds many times blast the fraites in the very flower The English are so naturally inclined to pleasure as there is no Countrie wherein the Gentlemen and Lords haue so many and large Parkes onely reserued for the pleasure of hunting or where all sorts of men alot so much ground about their houses for pleasure of Gardens and Orchards The very Grapes especially towards the South and Westare of a pleasant taste and I haue said that in some Countries as in Glostershire they made Wine of old which no doubt many parts would yeeld at this day but that the inhabitants forbeare to plant Vines aswell because they are serued plentifully and at a good rate with French wines as for that the hilles most fit to beare Grapes yeeld more commoditie by feeding of Sheepe and Cattell Caesar writes in his Commentaries that Britany yeelds white Leade within land and Iron vpon the Sea-coasts No doubt England hath vnexhaustible vaines of both and also of Tinne and yeelds great quantitie of Brasse and of Allom and Iron and abounds with quarries of Free-stone and Fountaines of most pure Salt and I formerly said that it yeelds some quantity of Siluer and that the Tinne and Leade is mingled with Siluer but so as it doth not largely quit the cost of the labour in seperating or trying it Two Cities yeeld medicinall Baths namely Buxstone and Bathe and the waters of Bathe especially haue great vertue in many diseases England abounds with Sea-coales vpon the Sea-coast and with Pit coales within land But the Woods at this day are rather frequent and pleasant then vast being exhausted for fier and with Iron-milles so as the quantity of wood and charcoale for fier is much deminished in respect of the old abundance and in some places as in the Fennes they burne Turffe and the very dung of Cowes Yet in the meane time England exports great quantity of Seacoale to forraine parts In like sort England hath infinite quantity as of Mettalls so of Wooll and of VVoollen cloathes to be exported The English Beere is famous in Netherland and lower Germany which is made of Barley and Hops for England yeelds plenty of Hops howsoeuer they also vse Flemish Hops The Cities of lower Germany vpon the sea forbid the publike selling of English Beere to satisfie their owne brewers yet priuately swallow it like Nectar But in Netherland great and incredible quantity thereof is spent England abounds with corne which they may transport when a quarter in some places containing sixe in others eight bushels is sold for twenty shillings or vnder and this corne not onely serues England but also serued the English Army in the ciuil warres of Ireland at which time they also exported great quantity thereof into forraigne parts and by Gods mercy England scarce once in ten yeeres needes supply of forraigne Corne which want commonly proceeds of the couetousnesse of priuate men exporting or hiding it Yet I must confesse that daily this plenty of Corne decreaseth by reason that priuate men finding greater commoditie in feeding of Sheepe and Cattell then in the Plough requiring the hands of many seruants can by no Law be restrained from turning corne fields into inclosed Pastures especially since great men are the first to breake these Lawes England abounds with all kinds of foule aswell of the Sea as of the land and hath more tame Swannes swimming in the Riuers then I did see in any other part It hath multitudes of hurtfull birds as Crowes Rauens and Kytes and they labor not to destroy the Crowes consuming great quantity of Corne because they feede on wormes and other things hurting the Corne. And in great Cities it is forbidden to kill Kytes or Rauens because they deuoure the filth of the streetes England hath very great plenty of Sea and Riuer fish especiallie aboue all other parts abundance of Oysters Makrell and Herrings and the English are very industrous in fishing though nothing comparable to the Flemmings therein The English export into Italy great quantity of red Herrings with gaine of two or three for one not to speake in this place of other commodities which they export with great gaine and in this fishing they are very industrious as well in the Sea vpon the coasts as in the Northerne Ilands To conclude they export in great quantity all kinds of salted fishes and those dried in the smoke and pickled as Pilchards Poore Iohn Cauiale Botargo and the like which they sell in Italy and those parts at a deare rate England abounds with pulse of all kinds and yeelds great quantitie of Saffron and of Flax wherof they haue also great quantitie frō Dantzke whence also they haue like plentie of Pitch and of Firre trees for Masts of ships which two things if England wanted not I durst say that this Iland or part of an Iland abounds with all things necessary for honest clothing large and dainty feeding and for warre by land and sea As for warre it hath not onely the aforesaid mettalls but also great quantity of Salt-peter Besides the famous Broad cloth it yeelds for clothing many Stuffes whereof great quantitie is also exported And I will not omit that howsoeuer it hath silke from forraigne parts yet the English silke stockings are much to bee preferred before those of Italy Spaine or any part in the World England abounds in Cattell of all kinds and particularly hath very great Oxen the flesh whereof is so tender as no meate is more desired The Cowes are also great with large vdders yeelding plenty of Whitmeates no part in the World yeelding greater variety nor better of that kind And the hides of Oxen are contrary to the common good exported in great quantity by vniustifiable licenses though
Connies being there somewhat rare and more like rosted Cats then the English Connies The English Husbandmen eate Barley and Rye browne bread and preserre it to white bread as abiding longer in the stomack and not so soone disgested with their labour but Citizens and Gentlemen care most pure white bread England yeelding as I haue said all kinds of Corne in plenty I haue formerly said that the English haue aboundance of Whitmeates of all kindes of Flesh Fowle and Fish and of all things good for foode and in the ducourle of the French dyet I haue shewed that the English haue some proper daintics not knowne in other parts which I will in a word repeate The Oysters of England were of old carried as farre as Rome being more plentifull and lauorie then in any other part England hath aboundance of Godwits and many Sea-fowles which be rare or altogether vnknowne elsewhere In the seasons of the yeere the English eate Fallow deare plentifully as Bucks in Summer and Does in Winter which they bake in Pasties and this Venison Pasty is a dainty rarely found in any other Kingdome Likewise Brawne is a proper meate to the English and not knowne to others They haue strange variety of Whitmeates and likewise of preserued banquetting stuffe in which Preserues France onely may compare with them It is needelesse to repeate the rest and I should bee tedions if I should search particularly like dainties which the English haue only or in greater abundance thē other Nations In generall the Art of Cookery is much esteemed in England neither doe any sooner finde a Master then men of that profession and howsoeuer they are most esteemed which for all kinds are most exquisite in that Art yet the English Cookes in comparison with other Nations are most commended for roasted meates As abundance of all things makes them cheape so riches preferring a gluttonous appetite before Gold and the prodigalitie of Gentlemen who haue this singular folly to offer more then things are worth as if it were a point of dignity to pay more then others and lastly the great moneys of siluer and the not hauing small coynes or brasle monies to pay for small matters these things I say in this great plenty make vs poore and greatly increase the prices of all things Also the said abundance and the riches vulgarly increased and the old custome of the English make our tables plentifully furnished whereupon other Nations esteeme vs gluttons and deuourers of flesh yet the English tables are not furnished with many dishes all for one mans dier but seuerally for many mens appetite and not onely prepared for the family but for strangers and reliefe of the poore I confesse that in such plenty and variety of meates euerie man cannot vse moderation nor vnderstandeth that these seuerall meates are not for one man but for seuerall appetites that each may take what hee likes And I confesse that the English custome first to serue grosse meates on which hunger spares not to seede and then to serue dainties which inuite to eate without hunger as likewise the longe sitting and discoursing at tables which makes men vnawares eate more then the Italians can doe at their solitary tables these things I say giue vs iust cause to cry with Socrates God deliuer mee from meates that inuite to eate beyond hunger But the Italian Sansouine is much deceiued writing that in generall the English care and couer the table at least foure times in the day for howsoeuer those that iourney and some sickly men staying at home may perhaps take a small breakfast yet in generall the English eate but two meales of dinner and supper each day and I could neuer see him that vseth to eate foure times in the day And I will professe for my selfe and other Englishmen passing through Italy so famous for temperance that wee often obseraed that howsoeuer wee might haue a Pullet and some flesh prepared for vs eating it with a moderate proportion of bread the Italians at the same time with a Charger full of hearbs for a sallet and with rootes and like meates of small price would each of them eate two or three penny-worth of bread And since all fulnesse is ill and that of bread worst I thinke wee were more temperate in our dyet though eating more flesh then they eating so much more bread then wee did It is true that the English prepare largely for ordinarie dyet for themselues and their friendes comming by chance and at feastes for inuited friendes are so excessiue in the number of dishes as the table is not thought well furnished except they stand one vpon another Neither vse they to set drinke on the Table for which no roome is left but the Cuppes and Glasses are serued in vpon a side Table drinke being offered to none till they call for it That the old English Hospitality was I will boldly say a meere vice I haue formerly showed in the discourse of the Italian diet which let him reade who shall thinke this as dissonant from truth as it is from the vulgar opinion If any stranger desire to abide long in a City or Vniuersity he may haue his Table with some Citizen of the better sort at a conuenient rate according to his quality from ten pound to twenty pound yeerely I haue heard some Germans complaine of the English Innes by the high way as well for dearenesse as for that they had onely roasted meates But these Germans landing at Granesend perhaps were iniured by those knaues that flocke thither onely to deceiue strangers and vse Englishmen no better and after went from thence to London and were there entertained by some ordinary Hosts of strangers returning home little acquainted with English customes But if these strangers had knowne the English tongue or had had an honest guide in their iournies and had knowne to liue at Rome after the Roman fashion which they seldome doe vsing rather Dutch Innes and companions surely they should haue found that the World affoords not such Innes as England hath either for good and cheape entertainement after the Guests owne pleasure or for humble attendance on passengers yea euen in very poore Villages where if Curculio of Plautus should see the thatched houses he would fall into a fainting of his spirits but if he should smell the variety of meates his starueling looke would be much cheared For assoone as a passenger comes to an Inne the seruants run to him and one takes his Horse and walkes him till he be cold then rubs him and giues him meate yet I must say that they are not much to be trusted in this last point without the eye of the Master or his Seruant to ouersee them Another seruant giues the passenger his priuate chamber and kindles his fier the third puls of his bootes and makes them cleane Then the Host or Hostesse visits him and if he will cate with the Host or at a common Table with others his meale
Westerne parts of Mounster yeeld vast woods in which the Rebels cutting vp trees and casting them on heapes vsed to stop the passages and therein as also vpon fenny Boggy places to fight with the English But I confesse my selfe to haue been deceiued in the common fame that all Ireland is woody hauing found in my long iourney from Armah to Kinsale few or no Woods by the way excepting the great Woods of Ophalia and some low shrubby places which they call Glinnes Also I did obserue many boggy and fenny places whereof great part might be dried by good and painefull husbandry I may not omit the opinion commonly receiued that the earth of Ireland will not suffer a Snake or venimous beast to liue and that the Irish wood transported for building is free of Spiders and their webs My selfe haue seene some but very few Spiders which the in habitants deny to haue any poyson but I haue heard some English of good credit affirme by experience the contrary The Irish hauing in most parts great Woods or low shrubs and thickets doe vse the same for fier but in other parts they burne Turfe and Sea coales brought out of England They export great quantity of wood to make barrels called Pipe-staues and make great gaine thereby They are not permitted to build great ships for warre but they haue small ships in some sort armed to resist Pirats for transporting of commodities into Spaine and France yet no great number of them Therfore since the Irish haue small skill in Nauigation as I cannot praise them for this Art so I am confident that the Nation being bold and warlike would no doubt proue braue Sea-men if they shall practise Nauigation and could possibly bee industrious therein I freely professe that Ireland in generall would yeeld abundance of all things to ciuill and industrious inhabitants And when it lay wasted by the late Rebellion I did see it after the comming of the Lord Montioy daily more and more to flourish and in short time after the Rebellion appeased like the new Spring to put on the wonted beauty Touching the Irish dyet Some Lords and Knights and Gentlemen of the English-Irish and all the English there abiding hauing competent meanes vse the English dyet but some more some lesse cleanly few or none curiously and no doubt they haue as great and for 〈◊〉 part greater plenty then the English of flesh fowle fish and all things for food if they will vse like Art of Cookery Alwases I except the Fruits Venison and some dainties proper to England and rare in Ireland And we must conceiue that Venison and Fowle seeme to be more plentiful in Ireland because they neither so generally affect dainty foode nor so diligently search it as the English do Many of the English-Irish haue by little and little been infected with the Irish filthinesse and that in the very cities excepting Dublyn and some of the better sort in Waterford where the English continually lodging in their houses they more retaine the English diet The English-Irish after our manner serue to the table ioynts of flesh cut after our fashion with Geese Pullets Pigges and like rosted meats but their ordinary food for the common sort is of Whitmeates and they eate cakes of oates for bread and drinke not English Beere made of Mault and Hops but Ale At Corck I haue seene with these eyes young maides starke naked grinding of Corne with certaine stones to make cakes thereof and striking of into the tub of meale such reliques thereof as stuck on their belly thighes and more vnseemely parts And for the cheese or butter commonly made by the English Irish and English man would not touch it with his lippes though hee were halfe starued yet many English inhabitants make very good of both kindes In Cities they haue such bread as ours but of a sharpe fauour and some mingled with Annisseeds and baked like cakes and that onely in the houses of the better sort At Dublyn and in some other Cities they haue tauerns wherein Spanish and French Wines are sold but more commonly the Merchants sell them by pintes and quartes in their owne Cellers The Irish Aquauitae vulgarly called Vsquebagh is held the best in the World of that kind which is made also in England but nothing so good as that which is brought out of Ireland And the Vsquebagh is preferred before our Aquavita because the mingling of Raysons Fennell seede and other things mitigating the heate and making the taste pleasant makes it lesse in name and yet refresh the weake stomake with moderate heate and a good relish These Drinkes the English-Irish drink largely and in many families especially at feasts both men and women vse excesse therein And since I haue inpart seene and often heard from others experience that some Gentlewomen were so free in this excesse as they would kneeling vpon the knee and otherwise garausse health after health with men not to speake of the wiues of Irish Lords or to referre it to the due place who often drinke tell they be drunken or at least till they voide vrine in full assemblies of men I cannot though vnwilling but note the Irish women more specially with this fault which I haue obserued in no other part to be a womans vice but onely in Bohemia Yet so as accusing them I meane not to excuse the men and will also confesse that I haue seene Virgins as well Gentlewomen as Citizens commanded by their mothers to retyre after they had in curtesie pledged one or two healths In Cities passengers may haue featherbeds soft and good but most commonly lowsie especially in the high waies whether that came by their being forced to lodge common souldiers or from the nastie filthinesse of the nation in generall For euen in the best Citie as at Corck I haue obserued that my owne other English mens chambers hyred of the Citizens were scarce swept once in the week the dust then laid in a corner was perhaps cast out once in a month or two I did neuer see any publike Innes with signes hanged out among the English or English-Irish but the Officers of Cities and Villages appoint lodgings to the passengers and perhaps in each Citie they shall find one or two houses where they will dresse meate and these be commonly houses of Englishmen seldome of the Irish so as these houses hauing no signes hung out a passenger cannot challenge right to be intertained in them but must haue it of courtesie and by intreaty The wild and as I may say meere Irish inhabiting many and large Prouinces are barbarous and most filthy in their diet They skum the seething pot with an handfull of straw and straine their milke taken from the Cow through a like handfull of straw none of the cleanest and so clense or rather more defile the pot and milke They deu oure great morsels of beefe vnsalted and they eat commonly Swines flesh seldom mutton and
and raised vp with wier shewing their necks and breasts naked But now both more commonly and especially in winter weare thicke ruffes Gentlewomen and Citizens wiues when they goe out of dores weare vpon their faces little Maskes of silk lined with fine leather which they alwaies vnpin and shew their face to any that salutes them And they vse a strange badge of pride to weare little looking glasses at their girdles Commonly they go in the streets leaning vpon a mans arme They weare very light gownes commonly blacke and hanging loose at the backe and vnder it an vpper-body close at the breast with a kirtle of a mixed or light colour and of some light stuffe laid with many gardes in which sort the women generally are attired They weare sleeues to their gownes borne out with whalebones and of a differing colour from the gowne which besides hath other loose hanging sleeues cast backward and aswel the vpperbodies as the kirtles differ from the gowne in colour and stuffe And they say that the sleeues borne vp with whale-bones were first inuented to auoid mens familiar touching of their armes For it was related vnto me I know not how credibly that by Phisitians aduice the French make issues in their armes for better health as the Italians vse to make them vnder the knees couered with a close garter of brasse In France as well men as women vse richly to bee adorned with Iewels The men weare rings of Diamonds and broad Iewels in their hats placed vpon the roote of their feathers The Ladies weare their Iewels commonly at the brest or vpon the left arme and many other waies for who can containe the mutable French in one and the same fashion and they commonly weare chaines of Pearle yea the very wiues of Merchants weare rings of Diamonds but most commonly chaines of bugell and like toyes of black colour The Gentlemen haue no plate of siluer but some spoones and a salt much lesse haue they any plate of gold But the great Lords or Princes eate in siluer dishes and vse basons and ewers of siluer and no other kind of plate vsing alwaies to drinke in glasses and each seuerall man to haue a glasse by himselfe Caesar reports that the old Britans were apparrelled in skinnes and wore long haire with the beard all shauen but the vpper lippe Now the English in their apparrell are become more light then the lightest French and more sumptuous then the proudest Persians More light I say then the French because with singular inconstancy they haue in this one age worne out all the fashions of France and all the Nations of Europe and tired their owne inuentions which are no lesse buisie in finding out new and ridiculous fashions then in scraping vp money for such idle expences yea the Taylors and Shopkeepers daily inuent fantasticall fashions for hats and like new fashions and names for stuffes Some may thinke that I play the Poet in relating wonderfull but incredible things but men of experience know that I write with historicall truth That the English by Gods goodnesse abounding at home with great variety of things to be worne are not onely not content therewith and not onely seeke new garments from the furthest East but are besides so light and vaine as they suffer themselues to be abused by the English Merchants who nourishing this generall folly of their Countrymen to their own gaine daily in forraigne parts cause such new colours and stuffe to be made as their Masters send painted out of England to them teaching strangers to serue our lightnesse with such inuentions as themselues neuer knew before For this cause the English of greater modesty in apparrell are forced to cast off garments before they be worne since it is the law of nature that euery man may eate after his owne appetite but must weare his apparrell after the vulgar fashion except he will looke like an old picture in cloth of Arras I haue heard a pleasant fable that Iupiter sent a shower wherein whosoeuer was wet became a foole and that all the people were wet in this shower excepting one Philosopher who kept his study but in the euening comming forth into the market place and finding that all the people mocked him as a foole who was onely wise was forced to pray for another like shower that he might become a foole and so liue quietly among fooles rather then beare the enuy of his wisedome This happens to many wise men in our age who wearing apparrell of old and good fashion are by others so mocked for proud and obstinate fooles till at last they are forced to be foolish with the fooles of their time The English I say are more sumptuous then the Persians because despising the golden meane they affect all extreamities For either they will be attired in plaine cloth and light stuffes alwayes prouided that euery day without difference their hats be of Beuer their shirts and bands of the finest linnen their daggers and swords guilded their garters and shooe roses of silke with gold or siluer lace their stockings of silke wrought in the seames with silke or gold and their cloakes in Summer of silke in Winter at least all lined with veluet or else they daily weare sumptuous doublets and breeches of silke or veluet or cloth of gold or siluer so laid ouer with lace of gold or silke as the stuffes though of themselues rich can hardly be seene The English and French haue one peculiar fashion which I neuer obserued in any other part namely to weare scabbards and sheaths of veluet vpon their rapiers and daggers For in France very Notaries vse them in the Cities and ride vpon their footecloaths or in Coaches both hired and in England men of meane sort vse them In the time of Queene Elizabeth the Courtiers delighted much in darke colours both simple and mixt and did often weare plaine blacke stuffes yet that being a braue time of warre they together with our Commanders many times wore light colours richly laced and embrodered but the better sort of Gentlemen then esteemed simple light colours to be lesse comely as red and yellow onely white excepted which was then much worne in Court Now in this time of King Iames his Reigne those simple light colours haue beene much vsed If I should begin to set downe the variety of fashions and forraign stuffes brought into England in these times I might seeme to number the starres of Heauen and sands of the Sea I will onely adde that the English in great excesse affect the wearing of Iewels and Diamond Rings scorning to weare plaine gold rings or chaines of gold the men seldome or neuer wearing any chaines and the better sort of women commonly wearing rich chaines of pearle or else the light chaines of France and all these Iewels must be oriental and precious it being disgracefull to weare any that are counterfet In like manner among the better sort of Gentlemen and Merchants
few are sound who haue not cupbords of siluer and gold plate to the value of two hundred pounds at the least And if a feast last longer then one day they seldome vse the same plate of siluer or guilded yea not only the great Lords but the better sort of Knights and Gentlemen vse to eate in siluer dishes And whereas the French and Italians vse to drinke in glasses and haue few vessels no pots or boles of siluer and the Germans drink in peuter or stone pots hauing little or no plate most of the housholders in England of any reasonable condition drinke in siluer yet howsoeuer the Gentlemen are serued with pots and boles of siluer they rather delight to drinke in glasses of Venice onely the common sort vsing other kinds of glasses In the generall pride of England there is no fit difference made of degrees for very Bankrouts Players and Cutpurses goe apparrelled like Gentlemen Many good Lawes haue been made against this Babylonian confusion but either the Merchants buying out the penaltie or the Magistrates not inflicting punishments haue made the multitude of Lawes hitherto vnprofitable Like 〈◊〉 is the excesse of all ages and sexes but God be thanked not of all particular orders for onely the Merchants and Students of the Vniuersities with great comlinesse and no lesse neatenesse are apparrelled in light stuffes or silke or cloth of graue colours and much keepe their old fashions or at least are not curiously addicted to new The wiues of Merchants though little yeelding to others in pride or expence yet haue long vsed and still retaine a decent attire with little or no inconstancy in the fashion They weare a gowne of some light stuffe or silke gathered in the backe and girded to the body with a girdle and decked with many gardes at the skirt with which they weare an apron before them of some silke or stuffe or fine linnen They weare vpon their heads a coyfe of fine linnen with their haire raised a little at the forehead and a cap of silke or a little hat of beauer yet without fit difference of estate or condition and some weare light French chaines and necklaces of pearle The grauer sort of Citizens weare gownes and caps others weare hats and cloakes and their prentises cloakes and caps No Citizens weare any swords in the Citie At publike meetings the Aldermen of London weare Scarlet gownes and their wiues a close gowne of skarlet laid with gards of blacke veluet Husbandmen weare garments of course cloth made at home and their wiues weare gownes of the same cloth kirtles of some light stuffe with linnen aprons and couer their heads with a linnen coyfe and a high felt hat and in generall their linnen is course and made at home Gentlewomen virgins weare gownes close to the body and aprons of fine linnen and goe bareheaded with their haire curiously knotted and raised at the forehead but many against the cold as they say weare caps of haire that is not their owne decking their heads with buttons of gold pearles and flowers of silke or knots of ribben They weare fine linnen and commonly falling bands and often ruffes both starched and chaines of pearle about the necke with their brests naked The grauer sort of married women vsed to couer their head with a French-hood of Veluet set with a border of gold buttons and pearles but this fashion is now left and they most commonly weare a coyfe of linnen and a little hat of beauer or felt with their haire somewhat raised at the forehead Young married Gentlewomen sometimes goe bare headed as virgins decking their haire with Iewels and silke ribbens but more commonly they vse the foresaid linnen coyfe and hats All in generall weare gownes hanging loose at the backe with a Kittle and close vpper-body of silke or light stuffe but haue lately left the French sleeues borne out with hoopes of whalebone and the young married Gentlewomen no lesse then the Virgins shew their breasts naked The seruants of Gentlemen were wont to weare blew coates with their Masters badge of siluer on the left sleeue but now they most commonly weare clokes garded with lace all the seruants of one family wearing the same liuerie for colour and ornament and for the rest are apparrelled with no lesse pride and inconstancie of fashion then other degrees The Husbandmen in Scotland the seruants and almost al in the Country did weare course cloth made at home of gray or skie colour and flat blew caps very broad The Merchants in Cities were attired in English or French cloth of pale colour or mingled black and blew The Gentlemen did weare English cloth or silke or light stuffes little or nothing adorned with silke lace much lesse with lace of siluer or gold and all followed at this time the French fashion especially in Court Gentlewomen married did weare close vpper bodies after the German manner with large whalebone sleeues after the French manner short cloakes like the Germans French hoods and large falling bands about their neckes The vnmarried of all sorts did goe bareheaded and weare short cloakes with most closelinnen sleeues on their armes like the Virgins of Germany The inferiour sort of Citizens wiues and the women of the Countrey did weare cloakes made of a course stuffe of two or three colours in Checker worke vulgarly called Plodan To conclude in generall they would not at this time be attired after the English fashion in any sort but the men especially at Court follow the French fashion and the women both in Court and City as well in cloakes as naked heads and close sleeues on the armes and all other garments follow the fashion of the women in Germany In Ireland the English and the English Irish are attired after the English manner for the most part yet not with such pride and inconstancy perhaps for want of meanes yet the English Irish forgetting their owne Countrey are somewhat infected with the Irish rudenesse and with them are delighted in simple light colours as red and yellow And in like sort the degenerated Citizens are somewhat infected with the Irish filthinesse as well in lowsie beds foule sheetes and all linnen as in many other particulars but as well in diet as apparrell the Citizens of Dublyn most of all other and the Citizens of Waterford and Galloway in some good measure retaine the English cleanlinesse Touching the meere or wild Irish it may truely be said of them which of old was spoken of the Germans namely that they wander slouenly and naked and lodge in the same house if it may be called a house with their beasts Among them the Gentlemen or Lords of Countries weare close breeches and stockings of the same peece of cloth of red or such light colour and a loose coate and a cloake or three cornered mantle commonly of course light stuffe made at home and their linnen is course and slouenly I say slouenly because they seldome put off a
other Cities is commonly of timber clay and plaster sometimes of freestone and foure or fiue roofes high whereof each as it is higher so is more proiected into the streete much darkening the same and causing the raine to fall into the middest thereof The streetes are no broader then for two Carts to meete and passe one by the other Almost vnder euery house is a Cellar to lay vp wine Perry Cyder and alll kinds of drinke and few of the windowes are glazed which are also darkened with grates of wood the rest are altogether open to be shut by night with windowes of wood The building of the Villages is like ours in England commonly of timber and clay and thatched ouer The Gentlemens houses are built like those in the Cities whereof I haue spoken but the Pallaces of great Lords for the most part are stately built of free stone yet more beautifull and stately are the Kings Pallaces commonly of free stone curiously carued with pillers of marble and sometimes of brickes with pecces of marble in the parts most open to the eye Among these Pallaces of the King that of Fontainebleau is the most stately and magnificent that I did see and most pleasant for the gardens and sweete Aire Caesar in his Commentaries saith that buildings of England were then like those of France Now at London the houses of the Citizens especially in the chiefe streetes are very narrow in the front towards the streete but are built fiue or sixe roofes high commonly of timber and clay with plaster and are very neate and ommodious within And the building of Citizens houses in other Cities is not much vnlike this But withall vnderstand that in London many stately Pallaces built by Noblemen vppon the Riuer Thames doe make a very great shew to them that passe by water and that there be many more like Pallaces also built towards Land but scattered and great part of them in backe lanes and streetes which if they were ioined to the first in good order as other Cities are built vniformely they would make not onely faire streetes but euen a beautifull City to which few might iustly be preferred for the magnificence of the building Besides that the Aldermens and chiefe Citizens houses howsoeuer they are stately for building yet being built all inward that the whole roome towards the streets may be reserued for shoppes of Tradesmen make no shew outwardly so as in truth all the magnificence of London building is hidden from the view of strangers at the first sight till they haue more particular view thereof by long abode there and then they will preferre the buildings of this famous City to many that appeare more stately at the first sight Great part of the Townes and Villages are built like the Citizens houses in London saue that they are not so many stories high nor so narrow in the front towards the streete Others of them are built in like sort of vnpolished small stones and some of the Villages in Lincolneshire and some other Countries are of meere clay and couered with thatch yet euen these houses are more commodious within for clenlinesse lodging and diet then any stranger would thinke them to be Most of the houses in Cities and Townes haue Cellers vnder them where for coolenesse they lay Beere and Wine Gentlemens houses for the most part are built like those in the Cities but very many of Gentlemens and Noblemens Pallaces aswell neere London as in other Countries are stately built of bricke and free stone whereof many yeelde not in magnificence to like buildings of other Kingdomes as Homby built by S r Christopher Hatton Tybals lately belonging to the Earle of Salisbury seated neere London the Earle of Exceter his house neer Stamford by which Pallaces lying neere the high way a stranger may iudge of many other like stately buildings in other parts The Kings Pallaces are of such magnificent building so curious art and such pleasure and beauty for gardens and fountaines and are so many in number as England need not enuie any other Kingdome therein Among them being manie a stranger may see neere London the King Pallaces of Hampton Court of Richmond of Greenewich of Nonsuch of Otelands of Schene of Winsore and in London the Pallace of White Hall In Scotland the Citie Edenborough is fairlie built of vnpolished stone but the galleries of timber built vpon the fronts of the houses doe rather obscure then adorne them And the Kings Pallace at one end and the fortified Castle at the other end of the City are more statelie built then the rest but all the beautie of the Citie confirsts of one large streete the by lanes being few and full of beggery The houses in Villages and scattered in the Countrie are like to those in England but the Gentlemens and Noblemens houses are nothing so frequent nor so stately built as the better sort of the English Neither are their I ownes and Cities in number building or pleasantnesse comparable to those in England Lastly the Villages of clay couered with straw are much more frequent then in England and farre lesse commodious within Among the Kings Pallaces that at Edenburg and that of Sterling for the building and Fawkland for the pleasure of hunting are the chiefe The houses of the Irish Cities as Corke Galoway and Lymrick the fairest of them for building are of vnwrought free stone or flint or vnpolished stones built some two stories high and couered with tile The houses of Dublin and Waterford are for the most part of timber clay and plaster yet are the streetes beautifull and the houses commodious within euen among the Irish if you pardon them a little slouenlinesse proper to the Nation In generall the houses very seldome keepe out raine the timber being not well seasoned and the walles being generally combined with clay only not with morter of lime tempered The Irish haue some quarries of Marble but only some few Lords and Gentlemen bestow the cost to polish it Many Gentlemen haue Castles built of free stone vnpolished and of flints or little stones and they are built strong for defence in times of rebellion for which cause they haue narrow staires and little windowes and commonly they haue a spatious hall ioyning to the Castle and built of timber and clay wherein they eate with their Family Neither are many of these gentle mens houses void of filth and slouenlinesse For other Irish dwellings it may be said of them as Caesar said of the old Brittanes houses They call it a Towne when they haue compassed a skirt of wood with trees cut downe whether they may retire themselues and their cattle For the meere barbarous Irish either sleepe vnder the canopy of heauen or in cabbines watled and couered with turfe The Germans long inioying settled peace the French and the Nitherlanders for many yeeres distracted with warres haue many Cities strongly fortified with ditches and earthen walles