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A42127 Chorographia, or, A survey of Newcastle upon Tine the estate of this country under the Romans : the building of the famous wall of the Piets, by the Romans : the ancient town of Pandon : a briefe description of the town, walls, wards, churches, religious houses, streets, markets, fairs, river and commodities, with the suburbs : the ancient and present government of the town : as also, a relation of the county of Northumberland, which was the bulwark for England, against the introdes of the Scots : their many castles and towers : their ancient Cheviot-Hills, of Tinedale, and Reedsdale, with the inhabitants. Gray, William, fl. 1649. 1649 (1649) Wing G1975; ESTC R10141 20,120 58

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any manner of goods wares and marchandizes in or any place of the River but onely at the Key of Newcastle Also granted Commissioners to measure Keeles King Edward the sixth grants the Town of Gateside to be united to the Town of Newcastle Repealed by Queen Mary Sir Thomas White Lord Mayor of London gave one hundred pound yearely to the chief Cities and Towns of England for ever to be lent to foure Clothiers Merchants for ten yeares without interest The Town of Newcastle enjoyeth her hundred pound in her turn The first hundred pound which came to Newcastle was in 1599. The noblest gift that ever was given in England by any subject Some think in time it will ingrosse the most of the money in this land THE HIGHEST AND NORTH PARTS OF THE TOWN THE ancient parts of the Town of Newcastle was in the upper parts of it about Newgate where are many old houses and cottages which served these religious houses with provisions This part of the Town is called to this day the Hucksters Booths These people in those dayes had their livelihood from those Fryers and Nuns that lived in that part of the Town In after ages the Burgesses and good men of the Town began to trade and venture beyond the seas into forraigne places they builded many ships procured a Charter from the Kings of England to carry Fels beyond seas and bring in sorraign commodities The Staple was then at Antwerp in Brabant called Commune totius Europa Emporium This Charter of the Merchant Adventurers was the first Charter that was granted by any King to any Town After which Grant this town flourished in trading builded many faire houses in the Flesh Market then called the Cloath Market The Merchants had their shops and warehouses there in the back parts of their houses the River of Tine slowed and ebbed where boats came up with commodities which trade of merchandizes continued many years In that street the Mayors Aldermen and richest men of the Town lived In after times the Merchants removed lower down towards the River to the street called the Side and Sandhill where it continueth unto this day THE SANDHILL Now let us describe unto you the other Streets and Markets in this Town First of the Sandhill a Market for fish and other commodities very convenient for Merchant Adventurers Merchants of Coales and all those that have their living by shipping There is a navigable River and a long Key or Wharfe where ships may lye safe from danger of stormes and may unlode their commodities and wares upon the Key In it is two Cranes for heavy commodities very convenient for carrying of corn wine deales c. from the Key into the Water-Gates which is along the Key side or into any quarter of the Town In this Market place is many shops and stately houses for Merchants with great conveniences of water bridge garners losts cellars and houses of both sides of them Westward they have a street called the Close East the benefit of the houses of the Key side In this Sandhill standeth the Town-Court or Guild-Hall where is held the Guilds every yeare by the Major and Burgesses to offer up their grievances where the Major keepeth his Court every Munday and the Sheriffe hath his County-Court upon Wednesday and Fryday In it is kept a Court of Admiralty or River Court every Munday in the afternoon This is a Court of Record for inroling of deeds and evidences There is a Court of Pye-powder during the said two Faires Lammas and Saint Luke All the priviledges and power that a Court-Leet can have is granted to this Court Under the Town-Court is a common Weigh-house for all sorts of commodities King Henry the sixth sent to this Town as to other Cities and Towns brasse weights according to the standard Neer this is the Town-house where the Clarke of the Chamber and Chamberlains are to receive the revenues of the Town for coale ballist salt grindstones c. Next adjoyning is an Almes-house called the Mason de Dien builded by that noble benefactor Roger de Thorneton Above which is the stately Court of the Merchant Adventurers of the old Staple resident at that flourishing City of Antwarpe in Brabant since removed to the more Northern Provinees under the States Their Charters are ancient their priviledges and immunities great they have no dependance upon London having a Governour twelve Assistants two Wardens and a Secretary There is an old Chappell upon the Brid Next West is a street called the Close where are many stately houses of Merchants and others The Earle of Northumberland had his house in this street Neer the Sandhill East is Allliallows Banck or Butehers Banck where most Butchers dwell the way to Allhallows Church the South side of which is many Chaires or Lanes that goeth down to the Key side THE MIDDLE PARTS OF THE TOWN NEXT up street is the street called the Side In the lower part of it standeth a faire Crosse with columnes of stones hewn covered with lead where is sold milk egges butter c. In the Side is shops for Merchants Drapers and other trades In the middle of the Side is an ancient stone house an appendix to the Castle which in former times belonged to the Lord Lumleys before the Castle was built or at least coetany with the Castle Next up the Town North is Middle-street where all sorts of Artificers have shops and houses The West side of this street is the Oatemeale Market On the East side of it is the Flesh Market I think the greatest Market in England for all sorts of Flesh and Poultry that is sould there every Saterday the reason is not the populousnesse of the Town that makes it it is the people in the Country within ten miles of the Town who makes their provision there as likewise all that lives by Coale-trade for working and conveying Coales to the water as also the shipping which comes into this River for Coales there being sometimes three hundred sayles of ships In this Market is kept two Faires in the yeare for nine dayes together one of them at that remarkable time of the yeare the first of August the other is held the eighteenth of October upon Saint Lukes day Next above North is the Bigg and Oate Market every Tuesday and Saterday in the week In which street is an ancient house with a large gate called the Scots Inn where the Kings Nobility and Lards of Scots lodged in time of truee or league with England PILGRIM STREET EAST again is Pilgrim Street the longest and fairest street in the Town In it is a Market for Wheat and Rye every Tuesday and Saterday Likewise an house called the Pilgrims Inn where Pilgrims lodged that came to visit the Shrine in Gesmond or Jesu de Munde which occasioned to call this street Pilgrim-street In the upper part of this street is a Princely house built out of the ruines of the Black Fryers Both East and West
fishponds c. The suburbs of Sand-Gate escaped the fury of these Warres except some neer the walls of the Town which was fired One remarkeable thing is recorded of two Carpenters hewing of a tree bloud issued out of the timber in what part of the wood they cut Below East is the Ballist Hill where women upon their heads carried Ballist which was taken forth of small ships which came empty for Coales Which place was the first Ballist shoare out of the town since which time the trade of Coales increasing there is many Ballist shoares made below the water on both sides of the River Upon the North side of the River is the Ewes Burne over which is a wood Bridge which goeth down to a place called the Glasse-Houses where plaine Glasse for windowes are made which serveth most parts of the Kingdom Below East is many shores built for casting of Ballist out of ships which brings profit to the town and the occupiers of the same OF THE NOBLE AND ANCIENT FAMILIES OF THE NORTH AND THEIR CASTLES THE North parts of England hath been in the Romans time and in after ages the Bulwarks and Fortresses of England against the inrodes of the Scots Newcastle for the East parts of this land and Carlile for the West The two great Princes of the North were the Earles of Northumberland at Alnwick and Westmerland at Raby Castle in the Bishopprick of Durham The first famous for the great overthrow he gave Malcolme King of the Scots and his Sonne Edward slain at his Castle of Alnewick The second Earle made famous for taking David King of Scots prisoner and the overthrow of his Army at Nevils-Crosse neer Durham The Lord Dacres and Lord Lumleyes were famous in their generations the first lived in Cumberland in his many Castles the other in the Bishopprick of Durham in Lumley Castle both of them having lands in Northumberland who held their land of the King in Knight service for his warres against the Scots The Bishops of Durham had their Castles in the frontiers in Norhamshire and Elandshire The Nobility and Gentry of the North are of great antiquity and can produce more ancient Families then any other part of England many of them Gentry before the Conquest the rest came in with William the Conquerour The Noblemen and Gentry of the North hath been alwayes imployed in their native countrey in the warres of the Kings of England against the Scots all of them holding their lands in Knights service to attend the warres in their own persons with horse and speare as the manner of fighting was in those dayes Some Gentlemen held their lands in Cornage by blowing a Horne to give notice that the Scots their enemies had invaded the land The Scots their neighbouring enemies hath made the inhabitants of Northumberland fierce and hardy whiles sometimes they kept themselves exercised in the warres being a most warre-like Nation and excellent good Light-Horsemen wholly addicting themselves to Mars and Armes not a Gentleman amongst them that hath not his Castle or Tower and so it was divided into a number of Baronies the Lords whereof in times past before King Edward the first's dayes went commonly under the name of Barons although some of them were of no great living It was the policy of the Kings of England to cherish and maintain Martiall Prowesse among them in the Marches of the Kingdome if it were nothing else but with an honourable bare title Some Gentlemen of the North are called to this day Barons The Ancient Families and Names of the Gentry are many which hath continued from William the Conquerour unto these late dayes The Grayes of Chillingham and Horton Barons of Warke-castle Ogles of Ogle-castle Fenwickes of Wallington Widdrington of Widdrington-castle Delavale of Seaton-Delavale Ridleyes of Williams-Weeke Muschampes of Barsmore the chiefe Baron of Northumberland in Edward the first's reigne Mitfords of Midford Fosters of Edderston Claverings of Callalie Swinburnes of Swinburne now of Capheaton Radliffes of Delston Harbottle of Harbottle-castle extinct Haggerston of Haggerton Hebburne of Heburne Blankenship of Blankenship Fetherstonhaugh of Fetherstonhaugh Herons of Chepehase Horsley of Horsley Craster of Craster Laraines of Kirkharle Collingwoods of Eslington Whitfield of Whitfield Carnaby of Halton Lisles of Felton Strudders of Kirknewton Selbyes of Twisel Eringtons of Bewfrom Weldon of Weldon Bradforth of Bradforth Rodom of Little Haughton Carres of Ford-castle Creswell of Creswell Halls of Otterburne Thirlwall of Thirlwall-castle Killingworth of Killingworth These ancient Noble Families continued many years valiant and faithfull unto the Kingdom of England and flourished all in their times untill the two powerfull Earles of the North rose in rebellion in Queen Elizabeths reigne who drew along with them many Gentry of the North who overthrew themselves and confederates and many ancient families of the North Since many ancient names have been extinct for want of Heires Male and have been devolved upon other names and families Since the union of both Kingdoms the Gentry of this Country hath given themselves to idlenesse luxury and covetousnesse living not in their own houses as their ancestours hath done profusely spending their revenues in other Countries and hath consumed of late their ancient houses The Castles in the North are many and strong Morpith-Castle so called from the death of the Picts in that place Alnewick-Castle where the Earles of Northumberland kept their Court famous for two battels fought against the Scots who received a shamefull overthrow by the valour of the Earles of Northumberland Upon Tweed and Borders are Wark-castle a Barony of the Grays Norham-castle belonging to the Bishops of Durham Barwick upon the left banck and river a strong Town of Warre opposite sometimes against the Scots the farthest bounds of the English Empire Upon Till a River falling into Tweed above Norham is Ford-castle To the West beyond the River riseth Floddon-Hill made famous by the death of James the fourth King of Scotland slain in a memorable battell by Thomas Howard Earle of Surrey Generall of the English in the reigne of Henry the Eighth Upon the East Sea is Bambrough-castle and Dunstonbrough-castle builded by the Saxons and sometimes the Royall Seats of the Kings of Northumbers Bambrough-castle afterward converted into a Priory and did homage and vassalage to their Lord Priour Many battells and skirmishes hath been in this North and alwaies hath been victorious against the Scots Besides the forenamed battels of Alnewick-castle and Floddon at Solommosse fifteen thousand Scots were put to flight eight hundred slain and one and twenty of their Nobles taken prisoners by the English There was Lord Wardens of the East West and middle Marches appointed who had power by Martiall Law to represse all enormities and outrages committed in the Borders They had their Laws called Border Laws In the North toward the Borders is many Hills one of them most eminent called Cheviot Hill upon the top of it is Snow to be seen at Midsummer and a Land mark for Sea-men that comes out of the East parts from Danzieke through the Baltick Seas and from the King of Denmarks country it being the first land that Marriners make for the Coast of England These Chiviot Hills is made famous for the hunting of the Earl of Northumberland at the hunting the Earl Duglas of Scotland who met him with his forces and engaged one the other where was great bickerings and skirmishes to the losse of many men where both Earles fought valiantly called to this day Cheviot Chase There is many Dales the chief are Tinedale and Reedsdale a country that William the Conquerour did not subdue retaining to this day the ancient Laws and Customs according to the County of Kent whereby the lands of the father is equally divided at his death amongst all his sonnes These Highlanders are famous for theeving they are all bred up and live by theft They come down from these Dales into the low Countries and carry away horses and cattell so cunningly that it will be hard for any to get them or their cattell except they be acquainted with some Master Thiefe who for some mony which they call Saufey mony may help they to their stoln goods or deceive them There is many every year brought in of them into the Goale of Newcastle and at the Assises are condemned and hanged sometimes twenty or thirty They forfeit not their lands according to the tenure in Gavelkind the Father to Bough the Sonne to the Plough The people of this Country hath had one barbarous Custome amongst them if any two be displeased they expect no law but bang it out bravely one and his kindred against the other and his they will subject themselves to no Justice but in an unhumane and barbarous manner fight and kill one another they run together clangs as they terme it or names This fighting they call their Feides or deadly Feides a word so barbarous that I cannot expresse it in any other tongue Of late since the union of both Kingdoms this heathenish bloody custom is repressed and good laws made against such barbarous and unchristian misdemeanours and fightings In this North Country groweth plenty of hadder or ling good for Cattell to feed upon and for Moor-Fowle and Bees this hearbe yeeldeth a flower in June as sweet as Hony whereof the Picts in time past did make a pleasant drink wholsome for the body of Man Upon the West parts of Northumberland the Picts Wall is out of the ruines of which is built many Towers and Houses in that part where the Picts Wall stood in some of the wast ground the Wall is to be seen of a great height and almost whole many stones have been found with Roma upon it and all the names of the Roman Emperours Consuls and Proconsuls both in Stone and in Coine of Silver and Brasse with their Emperours Image upon them So the Picts Wall goes through Northumberland into Cumberland where I end my Peregrination and Travell keeping my selfe within the limits and bounds of Northumberland FINIS * Camden
and cost can scarce live of his Trade nay many of them hath consumed and spent great estates and dyed beggers I can remember one of many that raysed his estate by Coale-trade many I remember that hath wasted great estates I shall illustrate this by a story of two Spaniards brothers which travelled into the West Indies with that estate and means which they had acquired One of the brothers was a Miner to imploy many slaves in silver Mines the other brother was to be an Husbandman to provide Corne Sheep and other provisions for the Miner and his men much silver was got out of the ground by those Miners the Husbandman got monies out of his stock for his commodities After many yeares delving and labouring in these silver mines at last the Mines was exhausted and decayed and all the money which he had got for many yeares labour and cost was run into his brothers the husbandmans hands and all his stock upstanding he living all that time of the profit that his ground yeelded So it is with our Coale-Miners they labour and are at a great charge to maintain men to work their Collieries they wast their own bodies with care and their Collieries with working the kernell being eaten out of the nut there remaineth nothing but the shell their Collieries is wasted and their monies is consumed this is the uncertainty of Mines a great charge the profit uncertain Some South Gentlemen hath upon great hope of benefit come into this Country to hazard their monies in Coale-Pits Master Beamont a Gentleman of great ingenuity and rare parts adventured into our Mines with his thirty thousand pounds who brought with him many rare engines not known then in these parts As the art to boore with iron rodds to try the deepnesse and thicknesse of the Coale rare engines to draw water out of the Pits Waggons with one horse to carry down Coales from the Pits to the Stathes to the River c. Within few years he consumed all his money and rode home upon his light horse Some Londoners of late hath disbursed their monies for the reversion of a lease of Colliery about thirty yeares to come of the lease When they come to crack their nuts they find nothing but the shells Nuts will not keep thirty yeares there 's a swarme of wormes under ground that will eate up all before their time they may find some Meteors ignis fatuus in stead of a Mine 3. Commodity that this River bringeth forth is Grindstones which is conveyed into most parts of the World according to the Proverb A Scot a Rat and a New-Castle Grindstone you may find all the world over 4. Commodity of this River Is the great plenty of Salmond taken in this water which serveth this Town and other parts Upon the South side of this River stands a Town called Jarro where lived that Venerable Bede admired for his learning in those times of darknesse Camden entituleth him The singular Glory and Ornament of England Malmesbury Vir erat quem mirari facilius quam dignum praedicari possis qui extremo natus orbis Angulo Doctrinae corusco terras omnes perstrinxerat Beda lived in the time of the Saxons Heptarchy in England in the Kingdom of Northumbers seven hundred yeares after Christ This River hath two heads or maine streames South Tine which runs through Allendale North Tine which runs through Tinedale they meet West of Hexam and salute one another DIVINE PROVIDENCE OVER ALL NATIONS AND COUNTRIES OUR most provident and glorious Creator hath so furnished all Countries with severall Commodities that amongst all nations there might be a sociable conversation and mutuall commerce one people standing in need of another all might be combined in a common league and exhibit mutuall succours Non omnia sert anima tellus From the Indies gould silver gems drugs c. From Italy silkes From Spaine fruits saffron sacks From Denmarke amber cordage firs and flax From France wines and linuen From England wooll tinn From these Northern parts coale salt grindstones c. Which trade of coale began not past fourescore yeares since Coales in former times was onely used by Smiths and for burning of lime Woods in the South parts of England decaying and the City of London and other Cities and Towns growing populous made the trade for Coale increase yearely and many great ships of burthen built so that there was more Coales vented in one yeare then was in seven yeares forty yeares by-past this great trade hath made this part to flourish in all trades Camden calls Newcastle Ocellus the Eye of the North the Harth that warmeth the South parts of this Kingdome with sire An Aegypt to all the Shires in the North in time of famine for bread All quarters of the country comes with money in their purses to buy Corne to feed their families this summer This Town hath been famous in soure ages of the world 1. In the time of the Romans being in these parts being the utmost limits of the Roman Empire 2. Famous for the Monasteries in old times 3. This Town famous being a bulwarke against the Scots all the power of Scotland could never win it since the walls were built but of late being assisted by the English was stormed our churches and houses defaced the ornaments of both plundered and carried away the crowne of our heads is fallen woe now unto us for we have sinned 4. Famous for the great trade of Coale White-Salt Grindstones c. which they furnish other countries with Newcastle likewise excells in foure things before spoken 1. The Town Walls Gates Towers and Turrets 2. Saint Nieholas Church Steeple caput inter nubila condit 3. The Tine-Bridge consisting of eight stately Arches Towers and Houses 4. The long and faire Key for ships to unload their commodities The Revenues of the Town is not great considering the disbursements for repairing of Streets High-wayes Bridges maintenance of Ministers Schoole-Masters Poore c. The Armes of the Town is the three Castles Argent in a Field Geules Camden Newe 22. grad. 30. min. Long 54. gr. 57. M. Lat. Hues Newcast 23. grad. 10. min. Long 55. gr. 20. M. Lat. THE SUBURBS OF NEWCASTLE GATESIDE a Burrow upon the South side of the river Tine an ancient inhabited place a parish of it selfe in the Bishopprieke of Durham King Edward the sixth united it to the town of Newcastle since Queen Mary gave it again to the Bishops Sea of Durham The suburbs out of Newgate and Pilgrim-Street are ruinated in these late warres neer unto the Barras-Bridge is an Hospitall dedicated to Mary Magdelane There is many closes in that part and large fields of meddowes called the Castle Leases belonging to the Town the gift of King John as some say to the good men of Newcastle There is a Postern between New-Gate and West-Gate which goeth into a Close called the Warden-Close where the Warden of the Priour of Tine-mouth had his house garden