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england_n	earl_n	lord_n	marshal_n	3,722	5	11.2036	5	false

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ID	Title	Author	Corrected Date of Publication (TCP Date of Publication)	STC	Words	Pages
A49620	The voyage of Italy, or, A compleat journey through Italy in two parts : with the characters of the people, and the description of the chief towns, churches, monasteries, tombs, libraries, pallaces, villas, gardens, pictures, statues, and antiquities : as also of the interest, government, riches, force, &c. of all the princes : with instructions concerning travel / by Richard Lassels, Gent. who travelled through Italy five times as tutor to several of the English nobility and gentry ; never before extant.	Lassels, Richard, 1603?-1668.; S. W. (Simon Wilson)	1670 (1670)	Wing L465; ESTC R2418	265,097	737

of Farnesi to see two statues the one of Venus the other of Adonis both ancient ones and so rarely made that the Earle of Arondel late Lord Marshal of England offered twelue thousand crownes for them but was refused Passing from hence towards the pallace of Cardinal Spada I entred into it and there saw many exquisit pictures Thence I went to Ponte Sisto and from thence to the Hospital of the Trinity which receiues all Pilgrims comeing to Rome for three dayes and treateth them plentifully I confesse I went often hither and as often admired the wonderfull charity which is done here dayly but especially in the holy week in lent by the Confraternity of this Hospital of which most are gentlemen Here Noblemen Bishops and Cardinals wash the Pilgrims feet and then serue them at supper in the long Refectory where there are frequently in the holy week four hundred pilgrims at once at table Returning from hence I went to S. Girolamo della Charita a Church and house of good Priests and most of them Gentlemen liuing of their owne expences yet all in community S. Philip Neri instituted them and liued among them thirty yeares In the Church I saw vpon the High Altar an excellent picture of S. Hierome Hard by stands the English Colledge once an Hospital for the English and built by the English marchants in Rome to receiue English pilgrims in because a poore English woman had been found worryed by dogs in the night for want of a lodgeing In the Church of this Colledge lyes buried Cardinal Alan the last English Cardinal of our Nation From hence I went to the Chiesa Nuona belonging to the good Priests of the Oratory This is one of the neatest Churches in Rome and the best serued It s all painted in the roof by the rare hand of Pietro di Cartona and richly guilt Here I saw the neat Chappel of S. Philip Neri a primitiue Saint in all things but time He was the Institutor of this holy Company of Priest who are Religious men in all things but in vowes and name The Chappel and Altar of this great Saint is on the Gospel side the of High Altar his true picture there was made by Guido Rheni Vnder this Altar in a lower Chappel or Vault lyeth the body of this Saint in an iron chest if you desire to know his merits and life aske all Rome which lately saw them and dayly feels them On the other side of the High Altar within the rayles lyes buryed Caesar Baronius once a Priest of this house and forced after much reluctancy to be made Cardinal by Clement the VIII He deserued this honour in the opinion of all men for hauing written his incomparable Ecclesiastical history and if Hercules for helping Atlas to beare vp heauen one day onely was faigned by Poëts to haue deserued to be taken vp to heauen I may iustly say that Baronius deserued well the purple of the Church for haueing alone borne vp the cause of the Church of God against a whole troope of Centuriators For my part I reckon it among my felicities to haue liued after Baronius and to haue spent a good part of three yeares study in reading his Sacred Annals which cost him ten times three years study in writeing And here I could enter into a fair field of his prayses and like the Eagle in the story hauing nothing els to giue him giue him a feather that is one cast of my pen but that I write of countyes now and not of men and that his full prayses may be included in those three short encomiums Ecclesiae Cocles Caesar Christianus Orbis Locupletator The house of these good Priests deserues also to be seen for the Libraryes sake which is one of the best in Rome and for the great Oratoryes sake where there is euery Sunday and Holyday in winter at night the best Musick in the world From hence I went to the Church de la Pace a neat Church and adorned with excellent painting and statues Here many famous painters haue signalised their memoryes as Peruzza of Siena Vasari Lauinia a Lady of Bolognia Fontana Gentileschi Caualier Gioseppe Rossi and Raphael Vrbin himself who painted the Prophets and Sibylls in the Chappel of Augustin● Chigi and some think that he made the little boyes that are so well done The statues of S. Peter S. Paul are of the hand of Michel Angelo Going from hence through the street of the Stationers I came to the Piazza di Pasquino which is thought to be the very center of Rome And here I cannot forget Pasquin himsefe who forgets no man This Pasquin is an old broken statue something like that of Hercules in the Beluedere described aboue and of some rare hand And bcause it stands neare three of four streets whereby to escape when they haue fixed their Libells ●eering wits set vp here and father vpon poore Messer Pasquino their Satyrical ieasts called from him Pasquinades which Morforius another statue neare the Capitol vseth to answere From hence passing on to the Church of S. Pantaleon belonging to the Fathers of the Scholae Piae I was willing to enter into it and see it because four hundred yeares ago it was a Collegiate Church and possessed by English Priests as may appeare by the Inscription vpon a Bell which was cast then From hence I stept into Piazza Nauona called so by corruption from Piazza d'Agona because this piazza was anciently a Circus for sports and it was called Circus Agonalis In the midst of it anciently stood a great Egyptian pillar with hieroglyphs vpon it and now of late it hath gotten an other such pillar set vp here by Pope Innocent the X with a rare fountain yssuing forth at the foot of it and adorned with four great statues of white marble representing the four parts of the world In this place also stands the new Church of S. Agnes built vpon the place where she was condemned to the stews This Church is built at the cost of Prencipe Pamphilio whose Pallace ioynes vpon it This Pallace ouer looking the Piazza Nauona deserue not onely a glance of an eye but also an houres inspection within The chambers are many and faire and the great Hall a most lonely roome if painting and variety of pictures in frames can make a house hansome In this Piazza also I saw the pallace of the Duke of Bracciano of the house of Orsini and that of the family of Torres The Spanish Church here called S. Iacomos is not to be forgotten Here lyes buryed in it Petrus Ciaconius a learned Critick for a Spaniard The picture here in oyle of San Diego is of Annibal Caracio Oueragainst the back dore of this Church stands the Sapienza a faire Colledge where the publick Lectures are read This Colledge was begun by Eugenius the IIII but much beautifyed of late with hansome schooles and a neat

of San Felice which is rarely painted by famous Giotto who made the Campanile of Florence In a side Chappel on the right hand is the tombe of braue Gatta Mela whose true name was Erasmo di Narni of whom more by by The Tombe of Alexander Contareno General of the Venetians and it is one of the best cut tombes I haue seen It s fastened to a side pillar The Quire of this Church is all of inlayd wood In the Cloister of the Conuent are seen many tombes of learned men and in that quarter of the cloister which lyes vpon the Church I found written upon a black marble stone these words Interiora Thomae Howardi Comitis Arondeliae The bowels of the Earle of Arondel late Lord Marschal of England No wonder if his bowels be enchased in marble after his death who in his life time loued marbles con todas sus entranias with his whole bowels His Marmora Arondeliana commented vpon by learned M r. Selden shew this sufficiently This great man dyed here in Padua and yet in a manner at home because he had made Italy familiar to him while he liued at home 5. Going out of this Church I saw the Equestris Statue of Gatta Mela the Venetians General whose tombe I saw euen now in the Church He was nicknamed Gatta because of his watchfulness in carryeing business 6. The Chu●ch of S. Iustina is one of the finest Churches of Italy and no wonder seing its architect was Palladio Vnder the High Altar of this Church lyes buryed the body of S. Iustina The fine Cupolas the curious Pauement of red and black marble the rich High Altar all of pietre commesse the curious seats in the Quire with the historyes of the old and new Testament cut in wood in them the fine picture at the end of the Quire ouer the Abbots Seat containing the martyrdome of S. Iustina by the hand of Paolo Veronese the Tombe of S. Luke the Euangelist and that of S. Matthias the Well full of Relicks and the Tombe of S. Prosdochimus S. Peters disciple and first Bishop of Padua do all make this Church very considerable Before this Church and Monastery lyes the Campo Santo and a faire field where they keep monthly a mercato franco and where the euening Corso is kept by Ladyes noblemen in their coaches in sommer 7. The Monastery here is also one of the fairest in Italy and the second of that Order The painted cloister the neat Library and the picture of S. Iustina in the Abbats chamber made by Paolo Veronese are all worth your curiosity The Domo is not so well built as it is endowed with rich prebendaries A hundred thousand cownes a yeare go to the maintenance of a hundred Cleigy men and officers belonging to it The Prebends are 27 and ordinarily gentlemen 28. The Pallace of the Capitano Grandè is stately without here stands the curious Library 9. The great Hall called here Il Palagio di Ragione is a vast roome 180 paces long 40 broad without pillars It hath four great dores to it and ouer euery dore the Statue of a learned Paduan This Hall is also painted in the roof with astronomical figures representing the influences of the superior bodyes ouer the inferior At one end of it you see a round stone with these words written about it Lapis opprobrij The stone of disgrace vpon which whosoeuer will sit publickly and declare him self not to be soluendo cannot be clapt vp in prison for debt At the other end of this Hall stands Liuys Head in white marble and out of a little back dore there ioyning to the wall of this Hall stands Liuyes busto in stone with this Epitaphe vnder it in old Gothick letters Ossa Titi Liuij Patauini vnius omnium mortalium iudicio digni cujus prope inuicto calamo inuicti Populi Romani res gestae conscriberentur 10. The picture of the High Altar in the Augustins Church made by Guido Rheni and that of S. Iohn Baptist in the Sacristy of the same hand are both exquisitly well done 11. The ruines of an old amphitheater are seen hard by the Augustins Church There 's now a house built vpon the place yet the Court is ouall still and carryes the name of Arene Here they tilt and vse other sports of Caualry 12. In the Dominicans Church there is a very stately High Altar of pietre commesse Behind the Altar in the Quire are the neate Tombes of the Carari once Signors and Princes of Padua till they were put out by the Venetians 13. In the Church of San Francesco Grande I saw a curious Altar of white polished marble which pleased me vety much and the tombes of Caualcante Longolio 14. In the little neat Church of the Oratorians called the Church of S. Thomas of Canterbury lyes buryed the Lady Katherine Whitenhall in a vault made for the nonce and couered with a white marble stone She was daughter to the late Earle of Shrewsbury and wife to the Noble and Vertuous Thomas Whitenhall Esquire If you would know more of her read here the ingenious Epitaphe written vpon her tombe and made by her sad husband For my part hauing had the honour to see her often in her Trauels I cannot but make honorable mention of her here in mine She haueing so much honoured my profession of Traueling by her generous humour of Traueling She was as nobly borne as the house of Shrewbury could make her as comely as if Poets had made her Her behauiour was such that if she had not bien noble by birth she would haue passed for such by her carriage Her good qualityes were so many that if they had been taken in peéces they would haue made seueral women Noble and Noble women happy She was wise beyond her yeares stout aboue her sexe and worthy to haue found in the world all things better then she did except her Parents and Husband Her onely fault was that which would haue made vp other Ladyes prayses too much courage which befell her with the name of Talbo● But whilst her onely courage haled her on to journeys aboue her sexe and force haueing seen Flanders France and Italy accompanyed by her noble Husband and a hansome traine In her returne back like a tall ship comeing laden home and fraughted with pretious acquisitions of mind she sunck almost in the hauen and alas Dyed 15. Here are two Academies of wits the one called Gli Ricouerati the other Gli Infiammati The most famous men of Padua for learning were these Liuy Apponius Paulus the Iurisconsult Sperone Speroni Antonius Querenchus Iacobus Zabarella and Titian the famous Painter He that desires to know the History of Padua let him read Angelo Portinari delle felicitade di Padua Antonio Riccobono de Gymnasio Patauino de eius praeclaris doctoribus as also the booke called Gl'Origini di Padua Hauing thus seen Padua

Pope Honorius the First A courteous Father of S. Bernards Order here did me the fauour to shew me neare the high Altar this Head and this Picture These two are most authentical things for the attestation of them is in the very Acts of the second Concil of Nice held an 789 where to prooue the lawfullness of sacred Images against the Iconoclasts ●●e sacred Council cites a miracle wrought by this very picture of S. Anastasius and Baronius quotes diuers others wrought by the same picture In the second Church here to wit the little round Church on the righ● hand there is a famous picture of S. Bernards Extasis Vnder this Church I was led into a Vault where many of the bodyes of the foresayd ten thousand Christians who were martyred with S. Zeno are buryed This vault goes a mile vnder-ground In the third place stands the little Church of the Tre Fontane so called because S. Paul was here beheaded and where his head iumpt thrice three fountains gushed out Vpon an Altar on the left hand is an excellent Picture of S. Peters crucifixion of the hand of Guido Rheni On the other side is seen a little block within an yron grate vpon which they say S. Pauls head was cut off Going from hence I went ouer the fields to the Church of the Annuntiata one of the nine Churches of Rome visited by Pilgrims and from thenc to S. Sebastians S Sebastians Church is one of the seauen Churches and of great deuotion by reason of the Catacombes which are vnder it Here I saw the Tombe of S. Sebastian vnder an altar on the left hand many relicks kept ouer an altar on the right hand and the Vault vnderneath where Pope Steuen was beheaded in his owne Seat of stone and where S. Peters and S. Pauls bodyes were hidden many yeares Thenc I was let into the Catacombes which are vnder this Church and which from thenc running many miles vnder ground made anciently a Christian Rome vnder the Heathen There were divers of these Catacombes in the primitiue times and they were called diuersly Arenaria Cryptae Areae Concilia Martyrum Poliandria but most frequently Caemeteria that is dormitoria because here reposed the bodyes of the holy Martyrs and Saints qui obdormiuerunt in Domino But the greatest of all these Caemeteria was this of Calixtus In these Catacombes dureing the persecutions raysed against the Christians by ten Heathen Emperors the faithfull beleeuers together with their Popes and Pastors vsed priuatly to meet to excercice their Religion and steale their deuotions that is to heare Masse in little round Chappels painted ouer head poorely Minister the Sacraments bury the dead Martyrs and Confessors in the walls of the long alleys preach hold conferences and euen celebrate Councils too sometimes I descended seueral times into seueral parts of these Catacombes with a good experienced guide which you must besure of and with waxe lights torches being too stifeling and wandered them vp and downe with extraordinary satisfaction of minde The streets vnder ground are cut out with mens hands and mattocks They are as high as a man for the most part no broader then for two men to meet All the way long the sides of these Alleys are full of holes as long as a man and sometimes there are three rowes one ouer an other in which they had buryed their Martyrs and Confessors and that posterity might afterwards know which were Martyrs which Confessors they engraued vpon the stone which mur'd them vp or vpon one of the bricks a Palme branch in signe of a Martyr and a Pro Christo in Cyphers for a Confessor It s recorded that during the forsayd persecutions a hundred seauenty four thousand Martyrs were buryed here in this Cametery of Calixtus among whom were nineteen Popes Martyrs Hence these Catacombes haue alwayes been esteemed as a place of great deuotion and much frequented by deuout persons The words ouer the dore as you descend into them from the Church of S. Sebastian tell you how S. Hierome confesseth that he vsed euery Sunday and Holyday during his stay in Rome to go to these Catacombes And a picture hung ouer the same dore sheweth how S. Philip Neri vsed to frequent these holy places in the night and from whence I beleeue he sucked that true spirit of the primitiue Church which reigned in him and still reigneth in the breasts of his most vertuous children the pious Priests of the Oratory of Rome whom I must alwayes prayse wheresouer I find them because I alwayes find them either writeing holy things or liuing them that is either writeing books fit to be liued or liuing liues fit to be written Indeed its incredible how much the presence of these Holy Martyrs bodyes hath sanctifyed this place in so much that no man enters into the catacombes but he comes better out then he went in Catholicks come out farre more willing to dye for that faith for which so many of their ancesters haue dyed before them The Aduersaryes of the Roman Church come out more staggered in their fayth and more milde towards the Catholick Religion to see what piety there is euen in the bowels of Rome Atheists come out with that beleef that surely there is a God seing so many thousands of Martyrs haue testifyed it with their blood From S. Sebastians I went to the place hard by called Capo di Boue standing vpon the Via Appia It is a great building faced about with marble stones It was the Sepulcher of Metella wife of rich Crassus It s now called Capo di Boue because of the oxe heads cut in marble which compose the cornice that runns about the top of this Moles Entering into it you will wonder at the thickness of the walls which are aboue eight ells thick It was begun to be pulled downe especialy the great marble stones on the outside of it to make vp the Fontana di Treui but Cardinal Barberino would not suffer it to be so defaced Close by stand the ruines of the Pretorium the Quarters of the Pretorian Bands which the Emperours lodged here a little out of the throng of the towne that they might not occasion so easily tumults and that they might exercise themselues often in the Circo of Caracalla which was hard by This Circus was made by the Emperor Caracalla and is the most entire of all the Circos that were in Rome You see where the Carceres or starting place was where the Meta where the Guglia were You see how long it was and the walls yet show you what compasse it carryed In the midst of it stood that Guglia which now stands in the midst of Piazza Nauona I saw it lye here broken in three peeces and neglected quite till the Earle of Arundel our late Lord Mareshal Offering to buy it hauing already depositated threescore crownes in earnest for it made the

Romans begin to think that it was some fine thing and stop the transporting of it into England At last it light vpon a good stone-setter who joyned it so well together that it now stands streight againe vpon a rare basis and adornes the very heart of Rome Thanks to that ingenious architect Caualier Bernini who set it vp there in the anno Sancto whom it set vp too againe in the Popes fauour Innocent the X. which he had lost by a crack in the roof of the Portch of S. Peters Church caused by the heauy steeple which he had placed vpon it Neare the end of the Circus of Caracalla stands an old round Temple with an other little Ante-Temple close ioyned to it and out of which you go into the other what if this were the Temple of Honour into which there was no passage but through the Temple of Vertue which was ioyned close to it as this is to manifest that Vertue is the way to Honour Now its certain that these two Temples stood not farre from the Porta Carpena now called S. Sebastians gate as these two do But I declare that this is but ghesing Hard by the forsayd old Temple there is an Eccho which heretofore as they say would repeat after you a whole verse of Virgil but if so it was my fortune to finde her when she had catched a cold for I could get nothing from her but the two last words of a sentence Indeed Ausonius calls the Eccho the tayle of words and symposius sayth that the Eccho is like a modest Virgin which speaks nothing but when she is asked Returning from S. Sebastians towards the towne againe I passed by a little Chappel called Domine quo Vadis and ancienthy called Sancta Maria ad passus It s called Domine quo vadis because our Saviour appareing here to S. Peter flyeing out of the prison of Rome was asked by Peter Domine quo vadis Lord whither go you And he answered Vado Romam vt ibi iterum ●rucifigar J am going to Rome there to be crucifyed againe which words Peter vnderstanding rightly of Christs suffering in his members the faithfull beleeuers returned againe to Rome and was soone after crucified In the middle of this Chappel are seen the prints of our Sauiours feet in a white marble stone with an iron grate ouer them Entring into the towne by S. Sebastians gate I went on streight to the Church of S. Nereus and Achilleus of which Church Baronius was Cardinal The bodyes of these Saints are vnder the High Altar Cardinal Baronius caused this Church to be painted with the histories of Saints and martyrs to excite others to deuotion by their exemples Almost ouer against this Church stands the Church of S. Sisto with its monastery made famous by S. Dominick who made it his habitation and by whom God rought many miracles here It stands in a most vnholesome place called anciently the Piscina publica because the people vsed to wash themselues here Here are buryed S. Sixtus Antherus Lucius Lucianus Sotherus Zepherinus Popes and martyrs Here 's a fine picture of S. Vincentius Ferrerius From thence I went towards the the Porta Latina and there saw the Church where S. Iohn Euangelist was put into a caldron of boyling oyle Then Following the walls of the towne for a good while I came at last to S. Iohn Laterans Church the mother-Church of all Churches in the world and the Popes Cathedral In saying this I haue sayd enough and I say this after the words which are written in the architraue ouer the Portch of this Church and after the Bull of Gregory the XI who declared this Church to be the Popes chief seat and to haue the preeminency ouer the other Churches Orbis Vrbis euen ouer S. Peters Church too by name It was built by Constanti● the Great vpon mount Caelius and dedicated to our Sauiour himself for whose sake it deserueth the headship ouer all the other Churches in the world as he to whom it is dedicated is the Head of all the Elect. yet it is called diuersly by Ecclesiastical Authors Sometimes Basilica Constantiniana because Constantin built it sometimes Basilica Saluatoris because it was dedicated to our Sauiour Sometimes Basilica S. Ioannis because it was neare to the two Chappels dedicated to the two S. Iohns in the Baptistery of Constantin sometimes it was called Basilica S. Ioannis in Laterano or S. Iohn Laterans Church because it was built vpon the place where Plautius Lateranus the designed Consul had a fair house and a garden which Nero the Tyrant made bold withall hauing first made bold with their master by killing him Now this and the other great Churches of Rome are called Basilicae either because they are built after a Royal and stately manner or els because they are built to the King of Kings As for this Church of S. Iohn Lateran It is here that the Pope taketh possession of his Papal charge after he hath been chosen and consecrated Bishop yf he were none before in S. Peters Church For this reason all the chief Episcopal functions of the particular Diocese of Rome are performed here as the consecrating of Bishops and Priests the conferring of the Sacrament of Confirmation the Baptizeing of conuerted Iewes and Infidels For this reason its looked vpon by the Popes with great respect and hath been not onely beautifyed by them with costly decorations such as those that Clement the VIII and Innocent the X made but also fauoured by them with great prerogatiues one declareing by his Papal Decree that this is the Mother Church of all Churches another fixeing her the euery altar it self of wood on which S. Peter and the primitiue Popes had offered Sacrifice another allowing the Clergy if this Church the precedency ouer the Clergy of all other Churches in publick processions and to carry before them two Crucifixes another fixeing here the Heads of Saint Peter and Saint Paul As for the things most to betaken notice of here they are these 1. The Soffita or roof of this Church most richly guilt 2. The body of the Church all made new almost by Pope Innocent the X as to the inside of it 3. The rare painting that runns crosse the Church from the stately Organs to the Altar of the B. Sacrament containing the chief actions of Constantin the Great and other histories That of the Ascension of our Sauiour with the Apostles looking vp after him is of the hand of Caualier Gioseppe The Histories and figures about the Chariot of Constantin are of the hand of Bellardino That of the apparition of our Sauiour that of Mount Soracte that oueragainst Constantins Baptisme are all of the hand of Paris Romano That of the Baptisme of Constantin is of the hand of Caualier Ricelli In the Quire of the Canons the picture of the S. John is of the hād of Cauallier Gioseppe In fine the