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A51180 The delights of Holland: or, A three months travel about that and the other provinces With observations and reflections on their trade, wealth, strength, beauty, policy, &c. together with a catalogue of the rarities in the anatomical school at Leyden. By William Mountague, Esq; Mountague, William. 1696 (1696) Wing M2477; ESTC R217433 57,787 247

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a Chamber at the further end the High Court of Justice from which no Appeals are granted and to which all are made The Civil or Roman Law is in practise all over these Countries This Village has no Vote among the States not because 't is a Village for there are several Cities have no Votes but because they did not send Deputies to Vtrecht when the Union was upon the Anvil The Hague paies more Excise for Wine and other Liquors than Amsterdam Rotterdam and Dort three great Cities put together as they told us and it has the face of Truth for here is the great concourse of Travellers Nobility Gentry Foreign Embassadors Envoys Residents c. And now and for some Years past of the Congress these are the Wine-Bibbers for the common Dutch are satisfied with a sopie of Brandy-Wine a Dram of that Liquor does their Business better it keeps out the Cold and the Fogs quickens them and makes them fitter for Action and indeed they seem to have some occasion for it for they are naturally slow and heavy but then very diligent and constant else 't would have been impossible to have finish'd such great Works as they to their Honour and the Safety of their Country have happily atchiev'd And indeed strong and spirituous Liquors seem to me to be more necessary for as well as natural to this Nation conducing mightily to the conservation of their Health which must needs be fluctuating where the Air is so foul Their Country is a Bog a Marsh full of Vapours and Fogs which are Earthy and Sulphureous and send forth unpleasant and unwholsom Scents and therefore their frequent Tippling ought not to be charg'd on them as a Crime especially by a Neighbour-Nation the English who have a better Country and a better Air and are in their own Natures more lively brisk and pert having more Heat more Fire within are as Cholerick as the t'other Flegmatick drudge not like them therefore want not the like Supports being lazy and idle People chusing rather some of 'em to starve than work Besides they Bumper it but seldom and at set and upon solemn Occasions and then forbear a good while or at least some time but my Country-men to their shame are always Sotting and Drunkening toiling at it and valuing themselves upon making one another Drunk indeed 't is a noble Atchievement to Fuddle the whole Company 'T is a glorious Conquest to leave 'em all slain upon the Floor as they call it Now the bearing of much strong Liquor is an argument of a thick Skull rather than otherwise which I find few very fond of at least none would have it if they could help it In the Afternoon we hired a Coach a very genteel one and the Coach-Man in a good Habit of grey resembling a Livery with a pair of handsom fat well-kept Horses we agreed with him to wait upon us the whole Afternoon which he did for about Eight Shillings Sterling and first carried us to the Prince's House in the Bosch or Wood about two Miles from the Hague 't is a very pretty well-built tho' old Box as we call small Seats in England with good Gardens tho' not now very well kept at the Entrance of this House stand Four whole Marble Effigies of William the First Maurice his Brother Henry and William the Second the present King of Great Britain's Father all Princes of Orange very curiously done Directly forwards is a lofty well-painted well-guilt well-floor'd small Hall with a Gallery for Musick all round the top of it and three or four small lodging Rooms below and several very good ones above one Closet of all true Indian Japan made of Cabinets or Chests taken in pieces 't is three Yards long and one and a half broad The Wall and Cielings all round beautified with curious Paintings representing the Actions of Frederick Henry Prince of Orange The Wood in which this little House fit only for Banqueting or a Supper in the cool of a Summer's Evening or indeed a retreat with a Mistress stands is very pleasant and with cost might be made much more delightful There is a pretty deal of Ground about it and well wooded but has no Deer or any other Game As we came back we rid by the Mall or Mell much like that in St. James's Park but not so neat or well kept being not so much frequented Then we were drove back through part of the Hague to Schevelin upon a fine smooth way pav'd all with Bricks and planted on each side with Trees to make it pleasant which was done at vast Expence being before all sandy Hills a little Village about two Miles from thence fam'd in Story for the Embarkation of Charles the Second King of England when he went to take Possession of his Three Crowns from which he had been long kept by the Usurper Oliver Cromwell 'T is a little Fisher-Place we rid along the shoar two or three Hours in view of the Ocean or Main-Sea where we observ'd some Wrecks on that Coast Between Schevelin and the Hague is a House of Myn Heer Bentink's now Earl of Portland it is but an ordinary old Piece of Building tho' his Lordship has lately added some new Lodgings to it but the Gardens are new and very extraordinary there is a very fine Orangerie and a new well-built Room or Green-house to preserve them in Winter and in the middle and at each end a great Stove in which great Fires are kept during the extreme cold Weather In the middle of the new Garden is a fine Oval Fountain The Garden is made up like a Half-Moon full of fine Flower-Pots In the old Garden is a neat Aviary and a small Moat with Fowl in it fine Walks and Figures and a Summer-House built upon an Artificial Rock Amongst the Principal Buildings in the Hague the House built by Prince Maurice claims the first Rank for 't is a stately One of Modern Structure Here Charles the Second King of Great Britain was lodged and treated by the States when his Majesty came from Breda to embark for England Anno 1660. The Dukes of Brandenburg Saxony and others of the Illustrious German Princes when they come to the Hague on Visit or Business are conducted hither and remain here during their stay In this House are the Pictures of most of the European Kings and a great many American Rarities In the Years 1672 and 1673 the Inhabitants were in great Pain lest the French who were then very near them shou'd have made 'em a Visit because there 's no Fortifications only a Ditch of Water The Trees round about it were order'd to be cut down to impede the French in their march who like very civil Gentlemen came not to give them the least Disturbance young Trees are since planted in the room of the old The Confusion then was such that they sent several Waggons laden with Money and the Publick Accompts to be secur'd in the Stadt-House
these Hangings as if looking over Galleries which when the Room is a little darkned which is done by the Servant that shows it the better to represent it appears as if they were all alive nodding of their Heads and talking to one another The Cieling it self is painted very finely by an Italian Master as also the Two Chimney-Pieces in which are represented Peace and War very curiously the first is Venus a very beautiful Woman with a pure white Dove on her Lap with other Emblems of Peace about her the second is Mars or a Soldier compleatly armed with a Plume of Feathers on his Head-piece trampling on a great open Book all bloody on which is writ in large Letter PRIVELEGIA The Seats are all rail'd in that of the Princes is an Elbow-chair at the upper-end of the Table about which on Chairs with Backs sits the Knighthood of Holland who have but one Vote which each City that sends Deputies has and at the lower-end sits the Pensioner who is Keeper of the Great Seal and Secretary as they told us before whom lies a small wooden Hammer which when he knocks with is that their Debates cease and they be silent The Seats of the Deputies of the several Cities are on Benches or Forms every Seat has a Cushion of green Cloth with which the Seats and Table is cover'd with the Arms of that City or Town on it for which they serve or which they represent At the upper-end of this noble Room on each side of that Chimney is a distinct Place for the two Secretaries on which lie great Books to take the Minutes The Vnited-Provinces are so call'd from their Union at Vtrecht Anno 1579. They are commonly but confusedly and improperly all call'd Holland that being the richest and most populous Province of them all and indeed worth them all and therefore for its Excellency it swallows up in its Name the t'other six and indeed it contributes to the charge of the War and the support of the State and the preservation of their Lands from the Sea by vast and expensive Dykes or Banks far beyond what all the other do put together of a Hundred Livers it pays Fifty nine and a half which is very considerable but then it is the great Trading Province These Provinces which before own'd Subjection to the King of Spain and were wonderfully Loyal to their Prince Lovers of his Person and Zealous for his Interest till he fell in upon their Establishments their Religious and Civil Rights have since been Independent of one another or to speak strictly and more properly are Seven Commonwealths which altogether now make but one under the Name of The States General of the United-Provinces of the Low-Countries The Dignity of this Republick residing in the States General but the absolute Authority in and over all Things reserv'd by reason of the Alliance has remained in the States of each Province and this is that which they call the Sovereignty The Seal of this formidable Commonwealth is a Lion holding a bundle of seven bound Arrows alluding to as many confederated Provinces There is no State in being of so small an extent which has so great a Number of Fortresses and which seems better defended by the Nature of the Places than this It has the Sea and several Rivers to secure it The Rhine the Maese the Waal and the Issell Of these seven Vnited-Provinces there are four towards the West Holland Zealand Vtrecht and Guelderland three towards the East Over-Yssel Friesland and Groninghen In their Assemblies the Provinces thus give their Votes Guelderland first of all then Holland Zealand Vtrecht Friesland Over-Yssel last Groninghen Each of 'em sends its Deputies to this Place viz. the Hague where are form'd three Colleges or Assemblies of them the States General the Council of State and the Chamber of Accompts In the Assemblies of the States General all the Provinces above-mention'd must consent in general and in particular to the Resolutions that are taken therein and do not follow the Plurality of Voices Each Province may send thither one two three four or five Deputies but all these Deputies have together but one Voice and have right to preside therein but one Week That of Guelderland begins because it is the most ancient and its Plenipotentiaries were the first who propos'd the Union This Province Anno 1674 offer'd the Sovereignty to the Prince of Orange now King of England it being the time the French King invaded them with mighty Armies which like a Torrent over-run all and made such surprising Conquests that in a very short time they reduced three Provinces and between fifty and sixty considerable Towns but their Progress was stopt and they repell'd by the Bravery and Conduct of the Prince of Orange who new modell'd the States Armies and from raw inexpert and undisciplin'd Soldiers and bad Officers rais'd by the Favour and Interest of the Burgo-Masters and Principal Magistrates made them very formidable to their Enemies and snatch'd the Lawrels from the greatest Generals of the Age at the Head of the best Troops and recover'd part of their Losses and had the rest resign'd by the Peace Anno 1678. The Admiralty has five Sessions and as many Magazines which are those of Rotterdam Amsterdam Enkuysen Midleburg and Harlingen The three first in Holland the fourth in Zealand and the fifth in Friesland The whole Care and Management of these several Admiralties is committed to Men of great Ability and Integrity conversant in Maritime Affairs and of great Experience in Matters relating to their Office viz. building of Ships buying of Stores and Naval Provisions equipping single Ships Squadrons or Fleets appointing Convoys c. These Officers as indeed all others throughout their whole Government have but small Pensions or Salaries the States being very sparing of the Publick Monies but however the Servants and Ministers of this Commonwealth live accordingly that is are prudent and thrifty in the Management of their private Fortune modest and plain in their Habit without the Pomp of Coaches or great Trains or large Houses or costly feeding or high drinking complying with the custom of their Country and contenting themselves with simple Diet no Fricassee's Ragou's or Grilliades but a good Dish of Cabilliau Cod-Fish of which the Dutch in general are great Admirers There seems to be a natural and habitual Probity amongst the Officers of this State Here are some Remains of their ancient Nobility some Branches of the Bredreodes the Wassenaers and the Egmonts this Nobility has ever voted there the first tho' as I said before it has but one Voice together whereas the Eighteen Cities of the same Provinces have there each one with the Sovereignty bound by Alliance Most of the Towns in this Province are beautiful and pleasant having been built in the last Age. Fronting the Prince's House stands a great Hall resembling tho' not so big as Westminster-Hall full like that of Booksellers and Toy-Shops Here is kept in
c. Here the Land lies low and the Water high dam'd up for the Publick Service and conveniency of Travel The Air is thick foul and unwholsom we fortified our selves with a good Dose of old Hock every Day we liv'd as the better sort of Dutch do and the common with a Cup of Nantz We arrived to the Dooly-House a noted Tavern where many of the Train'd-Band Officers are very well drawn in good Paint in a great drinking Rome the Wine is generally good at their Publick Houses but the best was at the Heer-Logiment but then the Price is higher This is a noble House fit to receive and lodge a Prince as it often does the lesser Potentates of Germany who frequently travel thither especially in their Minority when they never fail to make the Tour of these Provinces which well merit their Time and Expence informing their Judgments as well as gratifying their Curiosities The Accounts and Descriptions of Places and Things well made being indeed very delightful to read but much more to view the Eye being in matters of that kind much to be prefer'd to the Ear The mighty Figure this Republick has and still does make in the World her Wealth Power and Reputation both at home and abroad her Numerous Armies Formidable Navies and Foreign Alliances are all well worth seeing and knowing 'T is very observable here more Women are found in the Shops and Business in general than Men they have the Conduct of the Purse and Commerce and manage it rarely well they are Careful and Diligent capable of Affairs besides Domestick having an Education suitable and a Genius wholly adapted to it The Men take all the Pleasure they go to Coffee-Houses Taverns and Treats walk or ride in Chases abroad play much at Cards sit up Gaming and Fudling greatest part of Night and all is well the good Wife gets and the Husband spends the Money but this Compensation the Woman has for all her Toil and Care That at her Death if she drops before her Husband she can give away half the Estate The Women of these Parts are all for making their Daughters and Nieces or Grand-Children great Fortunes they let the Boys shift for themselves they say they can best do it We met abundance of French in this Place both Ministers and others most of the Reform'd Religion the Dutch are very generous to them in their Alms for their Support here are many Thousands ten for one in England or Ireland This Remark we made not once but often when we or any others occasionally spoke against the French King they seem'd concern'd tho' he has so bitterly persecuted them and as we were inform'd by those who knew it well they us'd to rejoyce at his former Successes in Flanders Piedmont and Catalina and say upon all Occasions Nôtre Grand Monarque est invincible which Note now is chang'd the Dutch were offended at their Vanity and Weakness because from them they receiv'd their Bread We went to the Butter Cheese Poultry and Dog-Market the three first were well-stor'd but the last which is every Monday Morning had but about twenty Curs in it and those very ugly but every Woman must have one the ordinary as well as extraordinary and good round Prizes they for these hairy Companions Thence to the Market for green and dried Herbs Seeds of all sorts and Roots for Apothecaries another of very fine Flowers in Pots in great quantities Here is a Rag-market and another for Tobacco Pipes of which they have very fine ones curiously glaz'd and wrought and great variety of Sorts and Prizes for Sea and Land short ones with large Bowls for the Skippers and Tarpaulins who keep them on board their Vessels and sell them to the Passengers Markets of Baskets Chairs Tubs and Pails all very pretty Grain Bisket Cakes Eggs c. Two large Flesh-Markets or Halls being in handsome Houses great store of Flesh in both and very good indifferently cheap and would be very reasonable but for the great and lasting Excise the Butchers and their Wives are neatly dressed and cleanlier than ours Here is also a Sawcidge Hogs-face and Tripe-Market they sell in their Cheesemongers Shops Bologna Sawcidges and dried Salmon both which they dress well boiling in part then frying the first and eating it with Spinage over which they scrape Nutmeg We hired a Yacht again and sailed for several Hours up and down the River to divert our selves Upon a small Island overagainst the City is their standing Gallows the Scaffold I mention'd before being set up only at particular times all of Free-Stone Triangular Pillars with Iron cross them with carv'd Work a Lion at the top of each they first hang or strangle the Criminals on the foresaid Scaffold erected close to the Stadthouse and those sentenced to hang in Iron are brought hither The Wheel or Cross is seldom us'd here tho' often in France The Scotch Man that many Years ago attempted to burn their Fleet of Men of War is here laid upon a Wheel set upon a high Post Also a French Man that kill'd a Whore who being bid by the Parson to pray for the City and Magistrates said The Devil take 'em all and one or two more hanging in Chains as we in England call it We had the Curiosity to go to see the Navy or Admiralty Office which is a well-built House with good large Rooms well painted and fitly accommodated to the Business they have a Court of Justice within themselves from which is no Appeal they hang or shoot their Sea-Officers or Men for Cowardize or neglect of Duty and reward them roundly if they burn sink or take a Flag-Ship or any Ship of War great or small or do any considerable Service they give them ready Money and Pensions when disabled great Care is taken of their Sea-men their Wages punctually and justly paid and their Widows and Children consider'd and themselves largely provided for in Hospitals c. In this House are several Trophies hung up taken from the several Enemies of this State We hir'd each a Chaise which is a small Chariot on two Wheels drawn by one Horse which runs very swift the Roads being sandy and generally good can travel sixty Miles a day and each got a Companion and went to NAERDEN Naerden the Frontier of the Province of Holland about ten Miles from Amsterdam in our way we past through Muyden a small City which has no Vote among the States because neither they nor Wesep another small City nor Naerden sent any Deputies to the Hague when the Foundation of the Union was laid This Town of Naerden was almost destroy'd by Fire in the Fourteenth Century and the remainder of it drown'd by the Sea soon after but Anno 1455 it was re-built by William the Third of Bavaia then Earl of Holland The Citizens of Vtrecht made themselves Masters of it in the Year 1481 by a pretty Stratagem putting their Soldiers in the Habit of Country Women