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A07834 An itinerary vvritten by Fynes Moryson Gent. First in the Latine tongue, and then translated by him into English: containing his ten yeeres trauell through the tvvelue dominions of Germany, Bohmerland, Sweitzerland, Netherland, Denmarke, Poland, Jtaly, Turky, France, England, Scotland, and Ireland. Diuided into III parts. The I. part. Containeth a iournall through all the said twelue dominions: shewing particularly the number of miles, the soyle of the country, the situation of cities, the descriptions of them, with all monuments in each place worth the seeing, as also the rates of hiring coaches or horses from place to place, with each daies expences for diet, horse-meate, and the like. The II. part. Containeth the rebellion of Hugh, Earle of Tyrone, and the appeasing thereof: written also in forme of a iournall. The III. part. Containeth a discourse vpon seuerall heads, through all the said seuerall dominions. Moryson, Fynes, 1566-1630. 1617 (1617) STC 18205; ESTC S115249 1,351,375 915

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warme their beere till it haue a froth yet doe they not vse these night drinkings so frequently nor with such excesse as the Germans doe I remember that hauing beene at Sea in a great storme of wind thunder and lightning about the moneth of Nouember when such stormes are rare and being very wearie and sad I landed at Dockam in West-Freesland where at that time some yong Gentleweomen of that Countrey passing through that City towards Groning according to the fashion of those parts we did eate at an ordinary Table and after supper sat downe by the fier drinking one to the other where after our storme at Sea the custome of Freesland did somewhat recreate vs For if a woman drinke to a man the custome is that shee must bring him the Cup and kisse him he not mouing his feete nor scarcely his head to meete her and men drinking to them are tied to the like by custome A stranger would at first sight maruell at this custome and more specially that their very husbands should take it for a disgrace and be apt to quarrell with a man for omitting this ceremony towards their wiues yet they interpret this 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 as if they iudged their wiues to be so foule or infamous or at least 〈◊〉 as they 〈◊〉 them vnworthy of that courtesie In the first Book of this third Part and in the Iournall of the first Part I haue particularly set downe the rates of expences for 〈◊〉 through those parts They greatly esteeme English Beere either for the 〈◊〉 wine or indeed the goodnes thereof and I haue obserued some in their cups thus to magnifie it English Beere English verstant English beare makes an English wit So in the Sea townes of England they sing this English rime 〈◊〉 of mutton and English Beere make the Flemmings tarry here They say that there be 〈◊〉 brewers at 〈◊〉 and there they imitate the English Beere and call that kind Delphs English But with no cost could they euer make as good as the English is though they prouided to haue English Brewers either by reason of the difference of the waters or rather as by experience I haue found because our Beere carried ouer Sea whereby it worke a new and goes a better fauour doth drinke much better then that we haue at home They say that of old there were more then 700 brewers at Torgaw till vpon the water 〈◊〉 or corrupted they forsooke that place It is not lawful to sel Rhenish wine and French white wine in the same tauerne lest they should be mixed but one man may sell French 〈◊〉 wine and Rhenish wine which cannot well be mixed without being 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 And for the same cause they may not sel in one place diuers lands of the same country wine and of the same colour The Netherlanders vse lesse excesse in drinking 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Saxons and more then other Germans And if you aske a woman for 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 she takes it for an honest excuse to say he is drunken and sleepes But I will truly say that for euery day drinking though it bee farre from sobernesse yet it is not with so great excesse as the Saxons vse neither in tauerns where they and specially the common sort most meet and in priuate feasts at home doe they vse so great excesse as the Saxons Neither doe drunken men reele in the streets of Netherland so frequently as they do in those of Saxony Only I did once see not without astonishment a man of honorable condition as it seemed by his apparrell of Veluet and many rings on his fingers who lay groueing on the ground close by the carte rutt of the high-way with two seruants distending his cloake betweene the Sun and him and when wee lighted from our waggon to behold more neerely this spectacle thinking the man to be killed or sore wounded his seruants made signes vnto vs that wee should not trouble him who was onely drunken and would be well assoone as he had slept a little At this we much wondred and went on our iourney At feasts they haue a fashion to put a Capons rump in the saltseller to contend who shall deserue it by drinking most for it The best sort at feasts for a frolike will change hats whereby it happens that Gallants shal weare a Burgers cap and a Burger an hat with a feather crying Tousfoiz a mode de Liege All fooles after the fashion of Liege Some wanting companions to drinke lay down their hat or cloke for a companion so playing thēselues both parts of drinking to pledging till they haue no more sence or vse of reason then the cloke or 〈◊〉 hath Lastly all bargaines contracts solemnities whatsoeuer are done in 〈◊〉 caps The longitude of Denmark and Norway extends 8 degrees and a 〈◊〉 from the Meridian of 27 degrees and a halfe to that of 36 degrees And the latitude extends 10 degrees from the paralell of 58 degrees to that of 68 degrees The Kingdome of Denmark is diuided into sixe parts Finmark Norway Gothia Scandia Seland and Iutland 1 Finmark reacheth towards the North beyond the Artick circle to the Castle Warthouse and therefore must needs be desart and barren 2 Norway in the Germans tongue signifies the way to the North and it is so large as of old it had and still retaineth the name of a Kingdome and towards Finmark it reacheth to the Artick circle The Cities are named 〈◊〉 not farre from the narrow Sea called Der Soundt and Nidrosia formerly called Trondia lying vpon the same sea and Bergis the seate of a Bishop and Solzburg a Citie of traffick In Norway they catch great store of Stockfish which they beate with cudgels and dry with cold and great store of a fish from the Greeke word called Plaise for the bredth thereof and they sell great quantity of this fish to the German Cities vpon the sea which they keep to feede the people in case the cities should be besieged 3 The Iland Gothia is annexed to the Crowne of Denmark yet the Succians tooke it in our time but the Danes recouered it againe Histories report that the Gothes came out of this Iland yet old Writers vnder the name of Scandia containe all the tract of the neck of Land lying from the Hyperborian Sea betweene the Northerne Ocean and the Bodick Gulfe from whence it is more probable that the Gothes came out then onely from this little Iland who after seated themselues vpon the Euxine sea and the banke of Danow and from thence made incursions vpon the Roman Empire And hereupon the said tract containing not onely Scandia and Gothia but all Norway and Suecia was by old Writers called the shop and sheath of Nations The Iland Gothia yeelds the rich Furres called Sabels 4 The Iland Scandia is also called Scondia and Scandinauia and Schonlandia that is faire land the beauty whereof the Danes highly extoll and for the firtiltie preferre it to Sealand though it passe the
worke in the Mines of mettall The ayre of England is temperate but thicke cloudy and misty and Caesar witnesseth that the cold is not so piercing in England as in France For the Sunne draweth vp the vapours of the Sea which compasseth the Iland and distills them vpon the earth in frequent showers of raine so that frosts are somewhat rare and howsoeuer Snow may often fall in the Winter time yet in the Southerne parts especially it seldome lies long on the ground Also the coole blasts of Sea winds mittigate the heat of Summer By reason of this temper Lawrell and Rosemary flourish all Winter especially in the Southerne parts and in Summer time England yeelds Abricots plentifully Muske melons in good quantity and Figges in some places all which ripen well and happily imitate the taste and goodnesse of the same fruites in Italy And by the same reason all beasts bring forth their young in the open fields euen in the time of Winter and England hath such aboundance of Apples Peares Cherries and Plummes such variety of them and so good in all respects as no countrie yeelds more or better for which the Italians would gladly exchange their Citrons and Oranges But vpon the Sea coast the winds many times blast the fraites in the very flower The English are so naturally inclined to pleasure as there is no Countrie wherein the Gentlemen and Lords haue so many and large Parkes onely reserued for the pleasure of hunting or where all sorts of men alot so much ground about their houses for pleasure of Gardens and Orchards The very Grapes especially towards the South and Westare of a pleasant taste and I haue said that in some Countries as in Glostershire they made Wine of old which no doubt many parts would yeeld at this day but that the inhabitants forbeare to plant Vines aswell because they are serued plentifully and at a good rate with French wines as for that the hilles most fit to beare Grapes yeeld more commoditie by feeding of Sheepe and Cattell Caesar writes in his Commentaries that Britany yeelds white Leade within land and Iron vpon the Sea-coasts No doubt England hath vnexhaustible vaines of both and also of Tinne and yeelds great quantitie of Brasse and of Allom and Iron and abounds with quarries of Free-stone and Fountaines of most pure Salt and I formerly said that it yeelds some quantity of Siluer and that the Tinne and Leade is mingled with Siluer but so as it doth not largely quit the cost of the labour in seperating or trying it Two Cities yeeld medicinall Baths namely Buxstone and Bathe and the waters of Bathe especially haue great vertue in many diseases England abounds with Sea-coales vpon the Sea-coast and with Pit coales within land But the Woods at this day are rather frequent and pleasant then vast being exhausted for fier and with Iron-milles so as the quantity of wood and charcoale for fier is much deminished in respect of the old abundance and in some places as in the Fennes they burne Turffe and the very dung of Cowes Yet in the meane time England exports great quantity of Seacoale to forraine parts In like sort England hath infinite quantity as of Mettalls so of Wooll and of VVoollen cloathes to be exported The English Beere is famous in Netherland and lower Germany which is made of Barley and Hops for England yeelds plenty of Hops howsoeuer they also vse Flemish Hops The Cities of lower Germany vpon the sea forbid the publike selling of English Beere to satisfie their owne brewers yet priuately swallow it like Nectar But in Netherland great and incredible quantity thereof is spent England abounds with corne which they may transport when a quarter in some places containing sixe in others eight bushels is sold for twenty shillings or vnder and this corne not onely serues England but also serued the English Army in the ciuil warres of Ireland at which time they also exported great quantity thereof into forraigne parts and by Gods mercy England scarce once in ten yeeres needes supply of forraigne Corne which want commonly proceeds of the couetousnesse of priuate men exporting or hiding it Yet I must confesse that daily this plenty of Corne decreaseth by reason that priuate men finding greater commoditie in feeding of Sheepe and Cattell then in the Plough requiring the hands of many seruants can by no Law be restrained from turning corne fields into inclosed Pastures especially since great men are the first to breake these Lawes England abounds with all kinds of foule aswell of the Sea as of the land and hath more tame Swannes swimming in the Riuers then I did see in any other part It hath multitudes of hurtfull birds as Crowes Rauens and Kytes and they labor not to destroy the Crowes consuming great quantity of Corne because they feede on wormes and other things hurting the Corne. And in great Cities it is forbidden to kill Kytes or Rauens because they deuoure the filth of the streetes England hath very great plenty of Sea and Riuer fish especiallie aboue all other parts abundance of Oysters Makrell and Herrings and the English are very industrous in fishing though nothing comparable to the Flemmings therein The English export into Italy great quantity of red Herrings with gaine of two or three for one not to speake in this place of other commodities which they export with great gaine and in this fishing they are very industrious as well in the Sea vpon the coasts as in the Northerne Ilands To conclude they export in great quantity all kinds of salted fishes and those dried in the smoke and pickled as Pilchards Poore Iohn Cauiale Botargo and the like which they sell in Italy and those parts at a deare rate England abounds with pulse of all kinds and yeelds great quantitie of Saffron and of Flax wherof they haue also great quantitie frō Dantzke whence also they haue like plentie of Pitch and of Firre trees for Masts of ships which two things if England wanted not I durst say that this Iland or part of an Iland abounds with all things necessary for honest clothing large and dainty feeding and for warre by land and sea As for warre it hath not onely the aforesaid mettalls but also great quantity of Salt-peter Besides the famous Broad cloth it yeelds for clothing many Stuffes whereof great quantitie is also exported And I will not omit that howsoeuer it hath silke from forraigne parts yet the English silke stockings are much to bee preferred before those of Italy Spaine or any part in the World England abounds in Cattell of all kinds and particularly hath very great Oxen the flesh whereof is so tender as no meate is more desired The Cowes are also great with large vdders yeelding plenty of Whitmeates no part in the World yeelding greater variety nor better of that kind And the hides of Oxen are contrary to the common good exported in great quantity by vniustifiable licenses though
at midnight through a heath of huge woods of Oake and came to Oldenburge early in the morning before the gates were open The Citie is built of meere clay but the Counts Castle is built in a round forme of stone with deepe ditches of water ouer which they passe by a drawing bridge and both the Castle and the City are strongly fortified Heere we had English beere the goodnesse whereof made my companions speake much in honour of England and of the Queene with much wonder that shee being a Virgine was so victorious against the Spaniards till in this discourse they all fell fast asleepe After breakfast the next morning wee hauing hired a waggon for eighteene groates passed foure miles in the territory of the said Count and one mile to Stickhausen in the territory of the Count of Emden who had a Castle there Then because we could get no waggon in this place wee went one mile further on foot which being very long and my selfe hauing some gold Guldens in my shooes which I could not remoue without suspicion the way was very irkesome to mee and we came to a countrey house but wee found good cheere each man paying for his supper seuen groates My selfe sitting last at the table by reason of my poore habit paied as much as the best and fedde on the worst but I had more minde of my bed then of my meat And one of my companions after supper hauing streight boots when I had taught him to pull off one by the helpe of a staffe for recompence of my counsell desired mee to pull off the other which being disguised as I was I could not well refuse The next morning we hired a waggon for eleuen stiuers and passed along mile to Leere a towne subiect to the Count of Emden who dwelt not far off at Dunort a strong Castle Our way through a Fen was so deepe as the waggon wheeles being pulled off we went good part of the way on foot Here we vnderstood that the Spanish Free-booters called by the English Malecontents lay at Aurick another castle of the said Count and being loded with booty had taken a barke by force to passe ouer the Emsz. These cut-throates vsed at this time to raunge out of the Spanish Garrisons vpon the Low-countries to spoile all passengers in these parts which they did with more confidence because the Count of Oldenburg being offended with the Citizens of Breme permitted these theeues to rob them who were also very malicious against those of Breme because they had lately taken thirty foure Free-booters and beheading them altogether had set vp their heads vpon stakes Besides the Count of Emden hauing beene lately driuen out of Emden by the Citizens in a tumult about religion did permit these Free-booters to lie in his Country and spoyle the Merchants of that City The chiefe Captaine of the Free-boaters then lying at Aurick was Hans Iacob a notable roge and very malicious to the English whom he vsed to spoyle of their very apparell to handle them cruelly mocking them with these English words I cannot tell and swearing that he would make them tell both of themselues and of their countrey men passing that way Some few dayes before hee had taken foure English wollen clothes and many Flemmish linnen clothes which they diuided by the length of a ditch in stead of a better measure and we were glad to heare that in this diuision they fell at variance for when this Hans I acob would haue stopt a part for the chiefe Captaine of the Garrison the rest cryed out in Dutch wir wollen dein mawger kopff lieber in zwey kleiben Stelen wir sur andern vnd hangen far vns selbs That is wee will rather cleaue thy leane pate in two Shall we steale for others and hang for our selues And they vsed many reproches against him and their chiefe Captaine saying in Dutch Finstu was bringt mirs hangstu aber habt dirs Die Iudem pfaffen hauptleinte vnd in hund ver dienen ihr kost mit thr mund That is findest thou ought bring it me hangest thou take that to thee The lewes Priests Captaines and dogs earne their liuing with their mouth but these cut-throates howsoeuer they had passed the Emsz yet meant presently to returne and had their spics in euery towne and village I returne to my iourney While we lay at Leere for a night a Doctor of the Ciuill Law seeing mee walke in the garden and thinking my seruile habit not fit for contemplation commanded mee to draw water for his horse giuing mee no reward presently but onely a nod yet after when he had drunke with his friends going out he said to me Knecht dore hastu zu drincken That is Sirra drinke you what is left After supper hauing expected a bed almost till midnight the maide at last told mee I must lie vpon the bench but after while I was washing my feet which the gold in my shooes had gauled she espying my silke stokings which I wore vnder my linnen ran to her mistresse and procured me a very good bed This effect pleased me well but I was afraide of the cause by which lest I should bee discouered I hasted away early next morning I paied heere for my supper and breakfast fifteene Stiuers and giuing the seruant one for his paines hee would haue restored it to mee seeming by my habit to haue more need thereof then himselfe All this night and the next day great store of raine fell and the winde was so tempestuous as we could not passe by water neither would my companions hire a waggon besides that the way was at this time so dirty as no waggon could passe it Notwithstanding since now onely two miles remained of my dangerous iourney and I thought no thiefe would come out in such raine I resolued to goe on foot with my companions to Emden being two miles but of vnspeakeable length and difficulty to passe In the high way wee had three passages one vpon the top of the Banke lying vpon an arme of the Sea or rather vpon the Riuer Emsz running into the Sea and in this passage the tempestious winde was like to beare vs ouer and blinded vs with driuing salt water into our eyes besides that wee went ouer the shooes in dirt The second passage was on the side of the banke from the water somewhat fairer then the other but in that most troublesome that wee were forced continually to leane vpon a staffe which euery one had in his hand lest being not staied with the staffe we should fall into the lower way which was intolerably dirty The lower way or third passage in the bottome of the banke furthest from the water was for the passage of waggons but the fields round about being ouerflowed in winter this passage was now 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 In this way we passed a very long mile from the little City Leere to the Village Aldernsea from seuen of the clocke
water out of England they could neuer make their beere so much esteemed as the English which indeed is much bettered by the carriage ouer sea to these parts Hence I went to Sluse so called of the damme to let waters in and out and came thither in two houres paying for my waggon thirteene stiuers which I hired alone for if I had light vpon company we should haue paied no more betweene vs. Hence I passed the Riuer Mase where it falleth into the sea and came to Brill my selfe and two others paying twelue stiuers for our passage but the barke being presently to returne and therefore not entring the Port set vs on land neere the Towne whether we walked on foot Brill is a fortified Towne laid in pledge to Queene Elizabeth for money she lent the States and it was then kept by foure English Companies paid by the Queene vnder the gouernment of the Lord Burrowes The Towne is seated in an Iland which was said to bee absolute of it selfe neither belonging to Zealand nor Holland On the North side the Riuer Mase runneth by On the East side are corne fieldes and the Riuer somewhat more distant On the South side are corne fields On the West side are corne fields and the maine Sea little distant Here I paied for my supper and dinner twenty stiuers and for a pot of wine eighteene stiuers From hence I returned by water to Roterodam in Holland and paied for my passage three stiuers In the mouth of the Riuer of Roterodam lies the City Arseldipig and another called Delphs-Ile being the Hauen of Delph which was then a pleasant Village but growing to a City and hauing beene lately burnt by fire was fairely rebuilded Roterodam lies in length from the East to the West The Hauen is on the South side being then full of great ships vpon which side it lay open without walles hauing many faire houses and a sweet walke vpon the banke of the water Neither is it fortified on the sides towards the land nor seemed to mee able to beare a siege hauing low walles on the North and East sides yet compassed with broad ditches The street Hoch-street is faire and large extending it selfe all the length of the Citie and lying so as from the gate at the one end you may see the gate at the other end and in this street is the Senate house In the market place toward the West is the statua of Erasmus being made of wood for the Spaniards brake downe that which was made of stone and the inscription thereof witnesseth that hee was borne at Roterodame the twenty eight of October in the yeere 1467 and died at Bazel the twelfth of Iuly in the yeere 1531. In New-Kirk-street there is the house in vvhich Erasmus was borne vvherein a Taylor dwelled at this time and vpon the vvall thereof these Verses are written AEdibus his natus mundum decorauit Erasmus Artibus ingenuis Religione side The world Erasmus in this poore house borne With Arts Religion Faith did much adorne The same Verses also vvere vvritten in the Flemmish tongue and vpon the vvall vvas the picture of Erasmus Vpon the same West side is the house for exercise of shooting in the Peece and Crosse-bow The vvaters of Roterodam and Delph being neere the sea are more vvholesome then the standing waters within land Heere I lodged at an English-mans house and paied for my supper tenne stiuers for my breakfast two stiuers and for beere betweene meales fiue stiuers by which expence compared vvith that of the Flemmish Innes it is apparant that strangers in their reckonings pay for the intemperate drinking of their Dutch companions From hence I went by sea three miles to Dort in two houres space to which City we might haue gone great part of the way by vvaggon as farre as Helmund but then we must needs haue crossed an Inland sea for the City is seated in an Iland hauing beene of old diuided from the continent of Holland in a great floud The forme of the City resembles a Galley the length whereof lies from the East to the West Wee landed vpon the North side lying vpon the sea where there be two gates but of no strength On the East side is the New gate Reydike and beyond a narrow water lye fenny grounds On the South side the ditch is more narrow yet the sea ebbs and flowes into it and vpon old walles of stone is a conuenient walking place On this side is the gate Spey-port and beyond the ditch lye fenny grounds On the West side is the gate Feld-port and a like walke vpon walles of stone and there is a greater ebbing and flowing of the sea There is a great Church built of bricke and couered with slate being stately built vvith Arched cloysters and there of old the Counts of Holland were consecrated From this part the two fairest streets Reydike-strat and Wein-strat lie windingly towards the North. Turning a little out of the faire street Reydike-strat towards the South lies the house for exercise of shooting in the Peece Crosse-bow and there by is a very pleasant groue vpon the trees vvhereof certaine birds frequent which we call Hearnes vulgarly called Adhearne or Regle and their feathers being of great price there is a great penalty set on them that shall hurt or annoy those birds There is a house vvhich retaines the name of the Emperor Charles the fift and another house for coyning of money for the Counts of Holland vvere vvont to coyne money at Dort as the Counts of Zealand did at Midleburg Betweene the faire streets Reydike-strat and Wein-strat is the Hauen for ships to be passed ouer by bridges and there is a market place and the Senate house vvhich hath a prospect into both these streets The houses are higher built then other where in Holland and seeme to be of greater Antiquity This Citie by priuiledge is the staple of Rhenish vvines vvhich are from hence carried to other Cities so as no imposition being here paied for the same the pot of Rhenish wine is sold for twelue stiuers for which in other places they pay eighteene or twenty stiuers For three meales I paied heere thirty stiuers From hence I vvent by water to the States Campe besieging Getrudenberg and came thither in two houres space but the vvindes being very tempestuous wee saw a boat drowned before vs out of which one man onely escaped by swimming who seemed to me most wretched in that hee ouer-liued his wife and all his children then drowned The besieged City lies in the Prouince of Brabant and the County of Buren being the inheritance of the Prince of Orange by right of his wife and in this Month of Iune it was yeelded to Count Maurice the Spanish Army lying neere but not being able to succour it The Sea lying vpon this part of Brabant was of old firme land ioined to the continent till many villages by diuers floods and seuenteene
by the way I obserued that the vvaggons hauing past more then halfe the way must haue the way giuen them by all the waggons they meet because their horses should in reason be most weary At Harlam I paied for supper bed and breakfast twenty fiue stiuers Hence I vvent by vvaggon and paied for my part of it sixteene stiuers for three miles to Amsterdam and there receiuing my money returned to Harlam drawne ouer the snow and ice which had plentifully fallen on a sledge for which I paid foure stiuers and I obserued many markes set vp in the fields to direct the way to passengers From Harlam I returned to Leyden where I lodged in a French-mans house for intending to bestow all my time in the French tongue till by Letters I should dispose of my estate in England and there being a famous Vniuersity in this City I found no abiding fitter for me then this I paid for my diet and chamber in this French-mans house three guidens and fifteene stiuers weekely but in the common Innes they pay ten or fifteene stiuers a meale according to the quantity of beere they drinke and ordinarily twenty stiuers or more if they drinke wine Leyden is so called of the words Legt bey de dunen that is lieth by the Downes so they call the sandy bankes of the Sea as the English doe likewise in Kent Leyden is of a round forme or perhaps somewhat longer from the East to the West where the Rheine passeth by it It is a City of much beauty the houses are very fairely built of bricke and be vniforme The Churches are couered with long slates as they be almost through all Holland and among the streetes one is much fairer then the rest in the middest whereof is a peece of ground railed in where the Merchants meet Many streetes are diuided with waters which are passed by woodden bridges and in deede if a man dig two foote in any part of Holland he shall find water I said that the Rheine passeth by this City yet doth it not fall into the Sea but leeseth it selfe in many standing ditches of water in this low part of the continent Toward the North-west about a mile from the City there is the end of a ditch digged of old from the very City vulgarly called Malgatt because the Citizens spent much treasure in a vaine hope to make a Hauen for ships and a nauigable water to come vp to the Towne for the heapes of sand daily cast vp by the Sea filled the place vp where they thought to haue made the Hauen as fast as they could dig it yet was it long before they would cease from this ill aduised worke Notwithstanding salt water comes vnder the earth from the Sea into this ditch and they carry the same vnto the City to make salt thereof Vpon the same Sea-shore towards the North and like distance from the City is a Village called Catwicke seated vpon Mountaines of sands on the maine sea Vpon the same shore further towards the North is a place where they say the Romans of old had an Armory the ruines whereof some musket shot from the shore more or lesse appeare as the wind couers them with sand or blowing from another quarter driues away the sand and so laies them open Hereabouts they say that many coines of the Romans are oftentimes digged vp and neere the Hoch-landish Church is a Monument built by Caligula the Emperour which now belongs to a Gentleman of that Countrey Vpon the North side of this city the Villages Warmond and Nortwicke lie vpon the aforesaid Downes but the City hath no gate that directly leades to them Leyden hath fiue gates Regenspurgport on the West side which leadeth to Harlam and to Catwicke and white port which leadeth to Hage betweene which gates there is a low water-gate of iron grates for boates to passe in and out Neere White Port lies a house where they exercise shooting with the Peece and Crosse-bow On the South side is the gate Kow-port leading into the pastures Vpon the East side is the gate Hochwertz-port more fortified then any of the rest and it leadeth to Vberden Gonda and to Alphen There is another gate Zillport which leadeth ro Vtretcht whither you passe by water or land The foresaid street which I said was the beauty of the Towne lieth from the West to Hochwertzport on the East side and is called Breitstrat that is Broadstreete In the spring time of the yeere 1593 purposing to see the Cities of the vnited Prouinces I hired a Waggon for sixe stiuers and went from Leyden to Delph three miles in three houres space through corne fields and rich pastures and hauing gone two third parts of the way we passed ouer the water that runnes from Leyden to Delph In all these parts the high way hath ditches on both sides and is very plaine sandy and very dry being daily repaired by the countrey people By the way is a mill in which they make oyle of rape and line seedes mingled with wallnut shels and they haue many such miles in those parts Not farre of at Voberg the Histories write of a holy Groue famous for a conspiracy against the Romans The City of Delph lyeth in length from the North to the South and the falrest street called Corne-mart lies the same way Here as in all the Cities of these parts the buildings are of bricke but the houses of Delph are more stately built and seeme to haue more antiquity then other where In the New Church is a Monument of the Prince of Orange the poorest that euer I saw for such a person being onely of rough stones and morter with posts of wood coloured ouer with black and very little erected from the ground Neere the Church is a large market-place and within a little Iland the Senate house is built The Hauen is on the South side The Prince of Orange dwelt heere in a Monastery and vsed to eat in a low parlor whence as he ascended the staires into the chamber a wicked murtherer gaue him his deaths wound who flying by a backe doore was after taken in the Citie and put to a most cruell but most deserued death The Countesse of Buren daughter to this said Prince now liued in this Monastery with her family Here I paied for one meale for my selfe and a guest inuited by me and two pots of Rhenish wine three guldens and fiue stiuers When the Spanish Army most pressed the vnited Prouinces the Prince of Orange then lying here to shunne a greater mischiefe from the Spaniards brake downe the bankes of the sea and let in the waters which did much hurt to the Countrey but saued them from the Spaniards who with great feare hasted away giuing great rewards to those that guided them to the firme continent At Delph are about three hundred Brewers and their beere for the goodnesse is called delphs-Delphs-English but howsoeuer they had Brewers and the very