amounts to almost a Thousand Pounds Sterling The Church of St. Mark deserves an exact Description but that is too great a Work for a Traveller I shall therefore content my self with giving you some general Account of it It is a Building Square or almost Square of a * The Church is a Cross shortned Greek-wise There are many Gothick Ornaments Greek Structure obscure and indifferent high but extraordinarily enrich'd with Marble and Mosaick Work The Roof consists of several Domes and that in the midst exceeds the rest in greatness Of all the Statues which are on the outside of the Church there are but Two good ones The Adam and Eve by Riccio which you see when you descend the great Stairs of the Palace I speak not of the Four Brazen Horses which are over the great Portal because they are foreign Pieces which came thither accidentally I learned from one skilled in Antiquity that these Horses belong'd to a Chariot of the Sun that serv'd for Ornament to a Triumphal-Arch which the Senate of Rome erected for Nero after the Victory of that Prince over the Parthians which may be still seen saith he on the Reverse of some of his Medals Constantine the Great carried them from Rome to Constantinople where he plac'd them in the Hippodrome and at last the Venetians having made themselves Masters of that City brought hither many of its rich Spoils of which number were these Horses One may still perceive in some places that they were gilded One of the things which seems to me most remarkable in the Church of St. Mark is the vast quantity of Mosaick Work with which it is adorn'd All the Pavement is made of it and all its arched Roofs are cover'd with it Because you have not seen this kind of Work and would have me to say something of it I will explain it to you as well as I can Mosaick Work came from Greece but they tell us that the use of it hath been in Italy for near Two Thousand Years past Vitruvius who lived in the time of Augustus speaks of it under the terms of opus sectile pavimenta sectilia opera musaea musiva It was likewise called tessellatum vermiculatum opus All Works compos'd of little inlaid Pieces whether they be of Stone Wood Ivory Enamel or any other Matter or whether they be Representations of Things Natural or only Morisk or Japan Figures all these are comprehended under the name of Mosaick So that there are many fashions of it You know what Inlaid Work is you have also seen the fine Works of Florence Stone and to speak after a looser manner all these are Mosaick And that which makes the greatest Ornament of the Church of St. Mark is that almost all the Work is of this nature For want of Natural Stones which would be hard to find for a Work so vast and which would take up an immense time to polish and prepare They have recourse to Pastes and compositions of Glass and Enamel which they make in a Crucible or Melting-Pot this takes a most lively and shining Colour which never wears nor stains Every Piece of the Mosaick of St. Mark is a little Cube which is not above Three Lines thick or Four at the most All the Field is of Mosaick gilded with most bright Gold and incorporated in the Fire upon the Superficies of one of the Faces of the Square And all these Figures with their Draperies and Ornaments are coloured according to nature by the due laying together of all the Pieces of the Work All these little bits are disposed according to the Design which the Workman has in view and are strictly adjusted together in the compound Matter or Plaister prepar'd to receive them which presently after becomes hard The best of this Work is its solidity It is more than Eight hundred and fifty Years that it hath lasted without the least diminution of its Beauty The Pavement of the Church is also exceedingly Curious and tho' it hath been in many places very much spoil'd and in some places worn it may be thought a kind of Miracle that such great pieces remain still entire after they have been trod under Foot for so many Ages They are little pieces of Jaspar of Porphyrie spotted green Marble and Marble of divers Colours which make also Compartiments different from each other I pass by the Relicks the miraculous Images and the other Holy Rarities which are in this Church only I shall mentition one of them which seems to me the most curious viz. the Rock which Moses struck in the Wilderness It is in the Chapel of at the end of the Font it is a kind of greyish Marble Nothing is more pleasant than the Three little Holes out of which they affirm the Water issued They are plac'd Triangular-wise about Two Fingers from each other and the Bore of each hole is no bigger than the hollow of a Goose-Quill I assure you it is a double Miracle that so much Water in so little Time should issue out of such narrow Holes as should suffice to quench the thirst of an Army of Six hundred thousand Men with all their Wives Children and Cattle They made us observe a Piece of Porphyrie enchas'd in the Pavement in the middle of the Portico of the Church over-against the great Door it is to mark out the Place wherein Pope Alexander III. set his Foot as they say on the Neck of the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa when that Prince came to submit to him for the obtaining of a Peace I am not ignorant that Baronius and some others have criticized this History and rejected it as a Fable But I must tell you by the by since Opportunity presents that what-ever probability may seem to be in the Reasons they alledge they cannot pass for more than Suspicions and Conjectures and can never amount to a convincing Refutation of a Story attested by so great a number of Authors Alexander III. was a haughty Man his Enemies had provoked him and he at last had the Pleasure to Triumph over an Emperour and Four Anti-Popes At the very time of his flight into France he was so proud as to suffer * Louys the young King of France and Henry II. King of England Two Kings who met him to alight and both to take the Reins of his Bridle and lead his Horse to the Lodging prepared for him If he did this in his Disgrace what might he not do in his Prosperity From the Church of St. Mark we went into the Treasury Three Procurators of St. Mark are the Administrators of it and it is never open'd but in the presence of one of them In the first place you see there the Relicks Pieces of the true Cross the Bones of the Dead the Hair and Milk of the Virgin c. From thence you pass into another Chamber where the real Treasure is kept The greatest part of the things to be seen there were brought from
of Amsterdam 23 Of Francfort 53 113 Of Worms 56 Of Nuremberg 75 Of Ausbourg 82 Of Trent 112 Jews why driven out of France Ibid. St. Justina a fine Church 137 K. Keiserswaert 32 M. Ker kringius 30 King of the Romans 52 The Three Kings 36 Knife of Stone 123 Knife taken out of a Man's Stomach 15 L. Lagunes of Venice 147 Lake of Agnano 317 Of Lucrin 325 Of Averno 329 c. Lance of St. Longin 68 Lanuvium 262 Lavinium Ibid. Laurel-Tree of Virgil 341 Laurel-Trees in the Hedges 265 Lent makes Venice desolate 198 Leyden Number of its Scholars Anatomy-Hall Cabinet of the Indies 14 15 Liberty of Venice true Licenciousness 175 Library at Heidelberg 63 At Nuremberg 69 Of St. Mark 170 Of Count Gambalonga 222 Limbo Patrum 329 Lirts a River 282 Loggietta what it is 168 London 22 St. Longin 264 Loretto 230 246 Losdun 12 Lucius III. Pope 117 Lucrin Lake 325 Lucullus's Fish-Pond 340 Luther 58 M. Macerata 248 Machine to light Five hundred Matches all at once 169 Maid a Soldier 9 A Drummer 26 Maids hir'd and sold 188 A Maid sold 216 Marquess de Capra's House of Pleasure 130 Malatestes a Family 221 222 Manheim 60 Marbles false 92 Mark d' Aviano a Capuchin 78 211 St. Mark 's Body 156 Gospel 164 Apparition 157 Markle-Hill a new Mountain sprung up in England 328 Marino 261 Marquesses of the State of Venice 203 Marchioness of Obizzi Story of her 141 Masquerades at Venice 195 Masks or Visors worn at Venice at other times beside the Carnival 197 Mausolaeum of Theodoricus 217 See Tomb. Maximilian I. 97 Mazaniello 307 Maze 16 Medals 91 101 103 283 Mein River 49 Mentz 47 Mentz Arch-Bishop 48 Mothers who let to Hire and sell their Daughters 188 Metamorphosis of Scylla 264 Milser his History 96 Minturna a ruin'd City 281 Mitre Trojan 163 Maenus 49 Monks curious People 196 Ignorant 212 249 Monk refused the Arch-Bishoprick of Florence 302 Mola 276 Mole of Puzzoli 325 Monastery a great one 138 Money of Venice 208 Mount Berick its Nostre-dame 130 Mount Vesuvius 309 Fiery Mountain 105 Mountain cleft on the Day of the Passion 278 Mountain of Markle-Hill 328 Monte Circello 264 Monte Nuovo arose in a Night 327 Monte di Christo Ibid. Mosaick what it is 159 Moses's Rock 161 Mule of Thomas Aquinas 267 Mules draw Coaches at Naples 309 Munich 88 Description of its Palaces 90 Mushrooms turn'd to Stone 123 Musick-Houses 26 Musicians of Manheim 61 Gelt 211 Musick Italian 192 Myrtles 265 N. Nail of St. Christopher 275 Naples 284 Narni 258 Neckar River 62 Nero lamented 190 Newburg 78 Noble Venetians 155 201 203 Nobility according to the Vulgar Expression consists only in Opinion 201 Nostre-dame of Newburg 79 109 Of Mount Berick 130 Of Rain 222 Of Loretto 231 See the Word Image Nuremberg 65 Sea-Nymph 20 O. Obizzi Marchioness a Lady of extraordinary Virtue 141 Olives 255 Olive-Trees 254 Olive-Trees of Nazareth 274 Opera of the Ascension 110 Opera's of Venice 193 Orange-Trees of St. Thomas Aquinas 274 Orange-Tree of St. Dominick Ibid. Oratories of the Virgin in the Alps 108 Organs very fine 112 Ornaments at the Coronation of the Emperour 67 Otricoli 259 Oxen shod 106 Oxe which spoke 292 Oysters at Venice not very good 172 P. P's four of Venice 184 Padlocks for Women 169 Paduan a good Country 132 Padua Ibid. Peasants Burgomasters 64 Which sell Medals 283 Palace of the Elector of Cologn 42 Of the Elector of Mentz 44 Of the Elector of Palatine 90 Of the Elector of Triers 43 Of the Duke of Venice 165 Of Cicero 276 Palaces of Italy criticised 128 129 Palatine Counts 43 Palemberg 64 Palm-Tree of St. Christopher 275 Fra. Paolo 212 Paper-Works 7 Parthenope 284 Passage dangerous 108 Mr. Patin 143 Pattens of Holland 3 Patriarch of Venice 210 Partridges White 105 Limbo Patrum Pavement rough 275 Pausilypus 316 Pearl a singular one 244 Peruke miraculous 39 Pesaro 223 Peter de Luna 247 Dr. Peters 53 People of Naples very wicked 308 Phantome 240 Pharaoh 45 Philosophy vain 333 Physicians of Salerno 340 Pictures 78 130 143 By Giotto Titian and others 171 At Naples 288 289 See the Instructions to a Traveller Pictures criticised 57 Pigeon miraculous at Cologn 38 At Ravenna 218 200000 Pilgrims at Loretto in one Year 242 Pine-Apples of Italy 220 Piperno 265 Pisca Marina a Rock 271 Piscina Marabilis 154 Place of St. Mark 195 Plain of Withay in England 333 Poignard of Frier Paulo 212 Politicks of Venice 172 190 Poppiel King of Poland eaten by the Rats 46 Poor Noblemen at Venice 202 Potenza a River 247 Powder for Cannon 74 Present of the Queen of England to the Lady of Loretto 237 Priests and other Ecclesiastical Persons are excluded the Counsel of Venice 177 Priests who have Concubines 189 Ignorants 210 Gelded 211 Priapus vegetable 16 Primicerio of Venice 157 Print of the Feet of a Horse 67 Print of the Feet if a Mule 267 Procession of the Hungarians 37 Fine Prospects 34 93 155 249 286 290 A fine Prospect 23 Psalftz 43 Puteolanum Spiraculum 320 Puzzoli 322 Q. Qui va li of Padua 133 R. Rarities Natural 15 See Cabinets of Curiosities Rats which eat a King and an Arch-Bishop 45 Ravenna 216 Recanati 247 Religious Women or Nuns of Venice 211 Religion of the Greeks 177 c. Of the Armenians 176 180 Relicks curious 290 Republick of St. Marin 175 223 Rhine River 16 46 Rialto Bridge 182 Riches of the Holy House 243 Ridotti of Venice 194 Rimini 221 Ring of St. Mark 157 Robert of Naples 296 Rock of the Emperor Maximilian I. 97 Rock of Moses 161 Another Rock 97 Rock softned 279 Rodomontades 128 Roof cover'd with Gold 98 Rovigo 214 Rotterdam 6 Roveredo 114 Rubicon 221 S. Sacrificing Utensils 121 Salernum Physicians of 340 Salmon 8 Sannazarius 342 c. Savii grandi 202 Sceptre of the Emperour 68 Scholars of Padua 133 Scrobes Charoneae 320 Scylla Metamorphos'd 264 Sea retreated from Ravenna 216 From Rimini 222 Senegallia 225 Serpents Skin with Arabick Characters naturally figur'd 16 Serpent fifteen Foot long taken near Ulm 101 Setia 264 Shirt made of Guts 15 Miraculous Shiverings 245 Sibyls 335 St. Simonin a Child martyr'd by the Jews 112 Sixtus V. undertook to extirpate the Banditti out of St. Peters Patrimony 307 Sleeves of the Noble Venetians 202 Solfatara Mountain 320 Somma Mountain 254 Sorcerer 67 Soucelle a Tree 275 Spaccata a Mountain cloven in two on the Day of our Saviour's Passion 282 A Spring from whence two Rivers flow 15 Spring in the Winter 109 250 254 Spiraculum Puteolanum 320 Spoils of Pavia 220 Spoletta 253 Starling with great Ears 16 Statue of Erasmus 8 Statues many of Brass at Inspruck 100 Of Adam and Eve 158 Greek ones 171 Animated 204 Of Alexander VII 220 Of Paul V. 222 Of Urban VIII 224 263 Of Popes represented sitting Ibid Of Gods sweating 292 Of Jupiter who thundered with Laughter Ibid. Steinbokt
all the ways are border'd with till'd Grounds and Vines supported by Trees planted Chequerwise we have been already accustom'd to such Objects in several parts of Lombardy and must expect to meet with almost nothing else such a Disposition of the Country is certainly good in its own nature and very pleasant but at last it grows offensive to the Eye of a Traveller for the Sight is perpetually bounded with rows of Trees and wants the necessary diversion of Variety Yesterday in the Evening I have read in an English Relation of the American Islands that there are great shining Flies in Barbadoes which might serve for Candles and that the Indians usually tye 'em to their Arms and Legs when they travel in the night as we drew near to the above-mention'd Village we saw a thing that appear'd very unusual and not unpleasant to us tho' 't is not at all heeded by the People of the Country by reason of its commonness All the Hedges were cover'd with prodigious Swarms of Shining Flies and every Bush seem'd to be on fire The Fields and Trees were no less full of 'em and the whole Air was brighten'd by their lustre You would have sworn that either it rain'd Stars or that these Luminaries flew thro' the Skies at least Philo would have been of that Opinion who imagin'd all the Stars to be living Creatures These little * They are call'd Lucciole Insects are almost of the shape of Locusts but they are not above two Lines and a half long and one Line in breadth The shining part is a little pale yellow Hair under their Belly which is stretch'd at every motion of their Wings and at the same time darts forth a very bright glance of Fire We set forwards this morning very early and in two hours arriv'd at Modena By the way we saw the Fort of †This Fort has four Bastions which bear the names of St. Mary St. Peter St. Paul and St. Petronius Vrban VIII and a little on this side of it we cross'd the River Panaro which separates the Territory of Bologna from the Dutchy of Modena Modena is situated in a good Country MODENA but it is destitute of Trade and consequently poor Its Fortifications are in a decaying condition and its Streets are little and dirty The Portico's with which almost all the Streets are border'd as at Bologna are low and narrow neither are any of its Churches very remarkable Fine Houses are Rarities in this place and all things consider'd I may venture to assure you that it would be hardly taken notice of but for its ancient Reputation and the residence of its Duke in i◠at present The old Palace is an inconsiderable Building but the new one which is partly founded on the Ruins of the former has very promising Beginnings The Stables are handsom and well stor'd These are all the Beauties of Modena with its Street appointed for Races and the Walks on the Ramparts I am SIR Your c. Modena May 28. 1688. LETTER XXX SIR OUR Calashes brought us in four hours from Modena to Regio REGIO There is nothing particularly remarkable in this City but in the general 't is better built and more pleasant than Modena They boast much of their * Huguetan says there are two famous Pictures in it one by Corregio and the other by Guido but he forgets to tell us what they are Church of St. Prosper but they who have seen Rome and Naples will hardly be perswaded to admire the Churches of Regio They strive also to gain some Reputation by their Works in Bone and Spurs as those of Modena do by their Masks but these are poor Exploits to acquire Fame Their finest Works in Bone are paltry little Rings sold for Six-pence a dozen Death-heads Shrines for Relicks Agnus Dei's and Crosses all which are made with Tools like Hedging Bills They have store of †Or Images of our Lady Madones and Relicks I am inform'd that some ancient Inscriptions have been found at Regio in which that City is call'd Regium Lepidi without mentioning who that Lepidus was The other Regio in Calabria ulterior bore the name of Regium Julium and 't is observ'd that the Inhabitants of the first were by the Latin Authors call'd Regienses whereas those of the latter were nam'd Rhegini And the last Regium or Rhegium is also thought to be deriv'd from the Greek word 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 because Italy is divided and as it were broken from Sicily at that place The Inhabitants of our Regio stile their Prince Duke of Regio and Modena as you know the Scots put the name of their Country before that of England in the Title of the King Eight miles from Regio we pass'd over the River Ensa on a Bridge and enter'd on the other side into the Dutchy of Parma The Country is still plain but we meet with many Pastures whereas about Bologna and Modena almost all the Grounds are till'd Parma is seventeen miles from the Bridge of Ensa we perceiv'd the City at a considerable distance because of the breadth and streightness of the Road that leads to it which discovers its highest Spires The entry into it is very pleasant and the City it self deserves the same Character Over the Gate thro' which we enter'd we saw the Arms of Pope Paul III. You know that Pontife created his Bastard Son Lewis Duke of Parma and Placenza these Territories having been before united to the Ecclesiastical State The Citadel of Parma was built on the Model of that of Antwerp and the Fortifications of the City are also very good It is divided by the River of Parma which runs thro' the middle of it but this River is not navigable There is nothing extraordinary in the Ducal Palace but they are building another which will be larger and more regular The Stables are handsom the Coaches very rich and the Wardrobe well furnish'd The great Theater is a very rare Structure and neither Paris nor Venice can boast of the like It is extreamly large and yet the softest Whisper may be heard thro' all the parts of it Instead of Boxes the Floor is surrounded with Benches rais'd after the manner of an Amphitheater It is also much larger than the Floors of Theaters are usually made and may be fill'd with Water to the heighth of above three feet This little Lake is cover'd with gilt Boats which make a very charming Spectacle by the help of a fine illumination Besides the ordinary Schools of the University there is a large and fair College call'd the College of the Nobility They receive Scholars of all Nations who are capable of being admitted Knights of Malta Not only the Sciences but all manner of Exercises are taught here and the Pensions are different according to the variety of the Studies The Scholars eat together in a Refectory and their number at present amounts to Two hundred and thirty The Dome of the Cathedral was
singly worth a little Town Ambrose Calepin lies interr'd at the Austin's He was born at Calepio a Village near Bergamo When Travellers visit the Cathedral they shew 'em the Tomb of the brave Barth Coglione Commander of the Venetian Forces against Milan and the first General who brought * Angli in oppugnatione Cenomanorum primum Aeneis Tormentis utuntur Urbe potiuntur An. 1425. Pol. Virg. Canons into the Field They make 'em also take notice of the inlaid Work of the Benches in the Quire of the same Church It is of the same nature and done by the same Hand as that we observ'd in the Church of the Dominicans at Bologna The Bergamese Jargon is reckon'd so ridiculous that all the Italian Buffoons affect to imitate it But there is another thing that makes the People of this City far more unpleasant and disagreeable one half of 'em have Wens or lumps on their Throats which disfigure their Countenances and in my Opinion are very unseemly Blemishes These Swellings are in a manner natural to 'em and if we may give credit to the common Report they doubt whether it be a greater Imperfection to have or to want these Tumors Henry VIII King of England us'd to bless Gold Rings which he pretended cur'd the Cramp But his Son Edward slighted this kind of Talisman William III now reigning has also rejected and abolish'd the superstitious Custom observ'd by the Kings his Predecessors since Edward the Confessor to touch those who were troubl'd with Scrophulous Tumors or the King 's Evil. You know without doubt that the Princes of the House of Austria pretend to cure this Distemper by giving a Glass of Water to drink and to untye the Tongues of Stammerers by kissing ' em The Territories of Bergamo and Milan are water'd throughout with Rivulets which fall from the Alps and are upon occasion divided by the Inhabitants into an infinite number of Canals which by moistening the Fields prevent the ill consequences of Droughts and make the Lands extreamly fertile The Inundation of the River Adda which comes from the Lake of Como oblig'd us to leave our Calashes at a Village call'd Canonica twelve miles from Bergamo where we pass'd over the River in a Boat tho' not without a great deal of difficulty by reason of its extraordinary rapidity We embark'd on the other side on the Canal call'd * Navilio della Marresana Navilio which begins at Trezzo two miles above Canonica and reaches in a streight line within half a mile of Milan its whole length amounting to twenty miles It derives Water from the Adda the course of which River is in many places very steep and meets with several Falls before it reaches the level of the flat Country so that it is lower than the Canal by five and twenty or thirty feet over against Canonica 'T is said that many Engineers had in vain attempted to bring the Waters of the Adda to Milan by way of a Canal till at last Leonard de Vinci the most accomplish'd man of his Age undertook and finish'd the work I read t'other day with equal Admiration and Pleasure the Account Mr. Felibien gives of that great Man who I 'm apt to think had a larger stock of Merit than ever any Man before him could boast of I cannot forbear making a short digression on this occasion which I hope will not offend you That illustrious Florentine was a man of great stature of a good aspect and sweet temper he was prudent courteous full of Wit Courage and Generosity He was so prodigiously strong that he was able with one Hand to twist the Clapper of a Bell. He was an excellent Horseman danc'd admirably well was brave and dextrous in managing all sorts of Weapons and a perfect Master in all genteel Exercises All the World knows that he was one of the best Painters of the Age and that he and Michael Angelo made Raphael leave his first way of Drawing Besides all these excellent Endowments our Leonard was a skilful Architect a good Sculptor a great Master in Mechanics a learned Mathematician Musician Anatomist Philosopher Poet and Historian Providence could not in Justice put an end to so rare a Life without a distinguishing Event At the age of Seventy and Five years he fell sick at Paris and Francis the First honour'd him with a Visit he endeavour'd to express his acknowledgment of so great a Favour by raising himself up and expir'd in the King's Arms who advanc'd to hinder him from rising The Merit of this great Person was the Subject of our Discourse in our passage along his lovely Canal which gave us the prospect of a delicious Country on both sides and is in many places border'd with pleasant Houses Orchards and Gardens like that which leads from Delft to Leyden or from Amsterdam to Vtrecht I did not intend to have written to you before our departure from Milan but I could not forbear adding this to the other Letters I am oblig'd to write on this occasion I am SIR Your c. Milan June 7th 1688. LETTER XXXI SIR THO' the City of Milan has been often wasted MILAN the Great and even * An. 1162. Frederic I call'd Barbarossa rac'd it and sow'd it with Salt sparing only some Churches utterly destroy'd by the terrible Scourges of War and Pestilence it is so well recover'd at present that it may be justly reckon'd among the best and finest Cities in Europe It s Figure is pretty round its Walls are ten miles in compass and I 'm positively assur'd that it contains no less than Three hundred thousand Inhabitants There are not many Instances of so great a City built in the middle of the Land without the conveniency of the Sea or of a †The Country abounds with good Springs and Rivulets Besides the Canal brought from the Adda fills the Ditch of she inward Enclosure of the City wiih running Water The Fortifications or outward Enclosure were erected since the destruction of the City by Barbarossa Galeazzo Visconti Father of Azzo attempted to make a navigable Canal between Milan and Pavia but the execution of that Design was prevented by the death of the Undertaker The beginning of that Canal is still to be seen near the Gate of Pavia River I remember a certain Latin Author informs us That Mediolanum or Mediolana took its name * Circa annum Mundi 4809. Mediolana Civitas conditur sic dicta quod ibi apparuit Sus quae pro media parte portabat Lanam pro pilis Wern Roolwinck Et quae lanigera de Sue nomen habet Sidon Apoll. à Sue dimidiâ lanatâ from a Sow half cover'd with Wool that was found in the place where the City was founded The first thing that our Guide carried us to see was the famous †There are two descriptions of this Cabinet one in Latin by Paulus Maria Tarzago and the other in Italian by Pi. Fran.
at Vienna or follows the Imperial Court This ‖ This Council is alâ—o compos'd of Members of both Religions Council is not perpetual nor in all respects of equal Dignity with the Imperial Chamber yet Cases of the same nature are also debated and soveraignly determin'd here No Suits can be remov'd from one of these Chambers to the other only in some cases a review of the Judgment may be obtain'd before the Emperor himself The express Orders which the Mareschal de Turenne receiv'd during the last Wars not to disturb or interrupt the ordinary course of Justice in the Chamber of Spire makes the Members of that Court believe that they shall be still treated with the same Respect And they are so firmly perswaded of the * A little after the first Edition of this Book Spire and Worms were plunder'd by the French Troops without the least regard to the Imperial Chamber French Civility that tho' they lye open to an Invasion in case of a Rupture they never think of removing either the Court or Original Records I shall pass from Spire to Colen having nothing to add to the account I have already given you of the Cities that lye between ' em JULIERS At our departure from Colen we took the Road to Juliers the Motropolis of the Dutchy of the same Name As far as we could judge by the slight view we had of it 't is pretty well fortified Here the Protestants enjoy the free exercise of their Religion by vertue of the Treaty which I mention'd before AIX LA CHAPELLE an Imperial City 't is also call'd Royal being perhaps honour'd with that Title because according to the Tenor of the Golden Bull the King of the Romans ought to receive his first Crown here Heiss Leaving Juliers we pass'd thro' a good and pleasant Country and in four or five hours came to Aix la Chapelle That famous City is still large and beautiful tho' it has lost much of its ancient lustre It has also preserv'd its Liberty entire only the Duke of Newburg as Duke of Juliers within whose Lands it lies has a Right to name the Burgo-master 'T is under the Protection of the King of Spain as Duke of Brabant This * This City is double the inward City call'd Carolina is enclos'd with its ancient Walls Blond City was almost wholly rebuilt by Charles the Great having lain desolate for almost four Ages after it was sack'd by Attila The same Emperor endow'd it with several Privileges made it the capital City of Gaul beyond the Alps and honour'd it with his usual Residence He built also the great Church from which the Town took the Name of Aix la Chapelle whereas before it was call'd Aquisgranum from a †The old Tower join'd to the Town-house on the East side does still retain the name of Granus or Granius Idem Roman Prince nam'd Granus a Brother or Kinsman of Nero who having discover'd Mineral Waters in this place built a Castle and laid the first Foundations of the City Charles the Great ‖ At the age of 72 years in the Fourteenth year of his Empire the Forty eighth of his Reign and of Christ 814. dy'd here and his Tomb remains to this day For the space of above Five hundred years several Emperors that succeeded Charles the Great were desirous to be Crown'd at Aix and I think I told you that Charles IV. made a positive regulation of this Ceremony by one of the Constitutions of the Golden Bull which ordain'd that the Emperors should afterwards receive their first Crown here but that Custom has been laid aside for some time and there remain only two Marks of the ancient Privileges of this City first there are Deputies sent both to Aix and Nuremburg to acquaint 'em with the Election of a new Emperor that they may send the Imperial * Ornaments and other things necessary for the Solemnity of the Inauguration Aix sends some Relicks a book of the Gospels written in Letters of Gold and one of Charles the Great 's Swords with the Brit I have already given an account of the Ornament that are kept at Nuremburg that are deposited in their hands And secondly wheresoever the Ceremony is perform'd the Emperor declares solemnly That tho' for some particular Reasons he could not receive his first Crown at Aix that Omission shall not be interpreted to the prejudice or diminution of the Privileges of that City The Emperor is always a Canon of Aix and takes an Oath for that purpose on the day of his Coronation Some Persons here assure me that both Religions enjoy equal Privileges at Aix but I must confess I forgot to enquire when I pass'd by that City and therefore I will affirm nothing positively I read t'other day in a short description of the Country of Juliers 〈◊〉 Monulsus and St. Godulrus Bishops of Liege that two Canoniz'd Prelates gave themselves the trouble of rising from the Dead on purpose to be present at the Dedication of the Chapel of Aix after which they march'd back to their Tombs Does not this Story put you in mind of L. Q. Cincinnatus who after he had been Dictator and gain'd a Battel return'd peaceably to his Plough MASTREICHT We stay'd but two or three hours at Mastreicht a City of an indifferent largeness pretty well built and strongly fortified the Garrison consists of between Nine and Ten thousand Men and we saw the †The present King of England Prince of Orange take a review of ' em Some Battalions perform'd several Martial Exercises and they are all extreamly well disciplin'd The little part of the City on the right Bank of the Meuse is call'd Wyek I know not whether you have observ'd that the Names of Mastreicht and Vtrecht are both deriv'd from the word Trajectum which is their common Name in Latin Vtrecht was call'd inferius or ulterius Trajectum and was the passage of the Rhine And Mastreicht was nam'd Mosae Trajectum the passage of the Meuse and Trajectum superius or the upper Passage About Three a-clock in the Afternoon we left Mastreicht LIEGE and arriv'd the same Evening at Liege which we found so full of People The Bishop's Seat was formerly at Tongres from whence it was transferr'd to Mastreicht and from thence to Liege Heiss by reason of the Ceremony of the Bishop's Election that we could not be accommodated with Beds Liege is a pretty large City populous and adorn'd with some fine Structures of which the Cathedral Church and the Bishop's Palace are the two principal Formerly there was not a Chapter in the whole Empire so honourable as that of Liege The Annals of this City relate that in the year 1131 when the Emperor Lotharius II. was crown'd in this place by Pope Innocent II the Chapter that assisted at the Ceremony was compos'd of nine Sons of Kings fourteen Sons of Dukes who were Soveraign Princes nine and twenty
of Mantua 201 of Monte Cavallo 119 of the Duke of Parma 196 of the Duke of Savoy 236 of the Vatican 28 of Whitehall 202 Palaces of Rome 90 Palm branches 247 Palm Sunday ibid. Palm trees ibid. Villa Pamphili 67 Panthea 138 Pantheon 21 of Athens 23 Parma 196 its Dutchy a Fief of the Ecclesiastic State 34 Paschal II. 45 Pasquin 54 Curious Pavement of the Cathedral of Sienna 149 Pavement of Florence 170 Pavia 220 St. Paul 's Splinter 45 Penitents of Rome 140 Perfumes 181 Persecution of the French Protestants 38 St. Peter 's Church at Rome 18 24 Petrification 66 A Phantom 280 Phidias a Sculptor 119 Philip the Good Duke of Burgundy institutes the Order of the Golden Fleece 301 Philipsburg 274 Pictures criticiz'd 29 30 69 176 Divers Pictures 9 10 11 21 28 29 30 40 60 65 66 67 73 90 93 120 136 150 151 173 197 218 269 270 Eight thousand Original Pictures at the Palace Colonna 93 Piedmont 234 Pietro-mala a City in Tuscany where the Air shines in the Night 184 S. Pietro in carcere 124 Pilgrims at Rome 117 Pipes their Vse among the Romans 51 Pisa 157 Pistoya 166 Plâ—cenza 198 M. de Plessis Mornay 102 Po a River 199 222 Poggi bonzi 152 Poggio Imperiale 181 Castor and Pollux 39 Martinus Polonus 98 99 Pomegranat trees 248 Pomaerium 199 Popes chosen young 78 Female Pope 74 Ancient Habits of Popes 29 Monstrous Popes no Rarities 85 Verses on certain Popes 85 86 Pope Joan 74 75 c. 96 c. 149 Port of Antwerp 295 Portraiture of Christ made by himself 44 another begun by Nicodemus and finish'd by Angels 162 of Cromwel 173 of General Monk ibid. of the Earl of Ossory ibid. of Paul V 21 of the Queen of Sweden 38 Pouzzolane asort of Sand 133 Prattinola 181 Praxiteles a Sculptor 119 Luther 's Prayer 32 Italian Preachers 47 Christ's Prepuce 45 Pressentina an Island 147 Printing house of Plantin 298 Privileges of Aix la Chapelle 277 of the People of Bologna 185 of the Province of Brabant 292 of the Noblemen of Venice 13 Procession on Corpus-Christi-day 217 229 230 Pro Christi what it is 135 Proculus 191 Fine Prospects 28 59 69 198 Protectors of Genoa 232 Protestants where buried at Venice 14 persecuted in France 38 Proverbs 55 56 c. on Justice 177 concerning Milan 219 Pyramid of Cestius 49 52 Q Quails passing from Afric to Italy 242 Quintin Mathys 297 R Radicofani 148 Raisins of Bologna 241 Ramparts of Antwerp 294 of Turin 236 Ranuccio Prince of Parma 34 Raphael of Urbin 23 28 his Masterpiece 73 Rarities natural 173 See Cabinets of Curiosities Rates of the Apostolical Chamber 84 Reggio 195 Regisole a Statue 221 Curious Relicks 41 42 45 46 73 74 180 214 219 Remora 212 Repartee of Alexander VI concerning Pasquin 54 of a Venetian Ambassador concerning the Donation of St. Peter 's Patrimony 144 Republic of Lucca 161 Contradictory Revelations of St. Katherine of Sienna and St. Bridget 151 Revenue of the Doge of Venice 4 of the Republic 6 Rhine a River 269 Riches of Antwerp 295 Ring of St. Mark 13 A River miraculously changes its course 163 Robert Bone an Archer 265 Rocks soften'd 124 Rhodomontades 298 Rods of Moses and Aaron 45 176 180 214 Rome 16 its Antiquities 64 65 66 Rostrum 228 Rotonda see Pantheon Rupes Tarpeia 124 S Sacking of Mantua 202 Sanctum Sanctorum 87 Golden Sand 256 Sauciges of Bologna 185 Villa Savelli 67 Saxum mirae magnitudinis 27 S. Scala 87 Scalado of Geneva 257 Scarperia a Town 183 Scheld a River 294 295 Schelestat 272 Scorpions 243 Scotists 151 Rare Sculptures 39 See Instruct to a Traveller Sea has lost ground at Leghorn 160 Senat of Women 126 Sena 248 Sentences and Proverbs 55 56 57 Serein or Evening Dew very dangerous about Rome 249 Sermons 47 Sermon of an amorous Monk 48 The brazen Serpent of the Wilderness to be seen at Milan 218 Fossil Shells 157 Shells on the Mountains of Tuscany 153 found in the Kidneys 155 Ship full of Devils 14 Sibyls 124 Siege of Ostend 303 Sienna 149 Silk of Bologna 185 Sixtus IV. settl'd Whores at Rome 48 Sixtus V. very severe 34 banishes and afterwards recalls the Whores 48 Skeleton petrefy'd 66 Snow at Rome in August 87 Soloturn 268 Songs of young Girls in Tuscany 152 Spaniards in love with Statues 26 Orlando Furioso 's Spear 221 Speculum Dianae 89 Spiders Spire 275 M. Spon 132 Sponges 248 Spurs of Reggio 195 Stammerers see Austria Star of the three Kings 45 Statue of Alexander Farnese and his Son Rannuccio 198 of the Duke of Alva 294 of Boniface VIII 186 of Cosmo I. Great Duke of Tuscany 160 171 of a Father and his Son 290 of God the Father 176 of Gregoâ—y XIII 186 of Martin the Fifth without a Beard 214 of a Peasant who discover'd Catilin 's Conspiracy 174 of Tullia the only one of its kind in Rome 92 of Urban VIII made by a blind man 93 Ancient and very rare Statues 65 66 67 68 Fine Statues 31 39 65 66 90 91 92 93 119 120 172 174 Fine Statues made by Bernin 65 One thousand eight hundred and sixty seven ancient Statues in the Palace Justiniani at Rome 90 Steeple of Antwerp 297 The highest Steeple in Europe 272 Stile of Christian Epitaphs 132 Stiletto's of Milan 246 Stone of Abraham 's Sacrifice 46 on which Christ was circumcis'd ibid. Dendrites 182 on which the Soldiers cast Lots for Christ's Garments 73 Travertin 62 The Devil's Stone 41 A very great Stone 27 Pumice Stones 248 Shining Stones of Bologna 192 Strasburg 272 Fine Street 198 Prodigious Strength 208 Sâ—rigil what it is 139 Sturgeon 241 M. le Suêur 97 A vast Sum of Money given by a private Person for the building and adorning the Front of the Cathedral Church of Milan 213 A Picture of the last Supper in which there is a Gammon of Bacon instead of the Paschal Lamb 29 Susa 254 Christina Queen of Sweden 38 Swelling of the Throat see Austria The wearing of Swords prohibited at Genoa and Lucca 246 T A fine Table 173 Tagliacozzo 185 Tail of Balaam 's Ass 45 of a Horse twenty foot long 173 Tarantula 's 244 Tarpeia rupes 124 Tears preserv'd 133 William Tell a Switzer 77 Temple of Bacchus 136 Tesin a River 222 Tetrapolis or Viterbo 145 Fine Theater 196 Thomists 151 Tiber 71 Tilmont 280 Tin scarce in Italy 251 Tivoli 60 Tomb of Adrian the Emper. 33 of Ascanius 88 of Aubigné 262 of St. Augustin 221 of Bacchus 137 of Cecilia 127 of Cestius 49 of Charles the Great 277 of Barth Coglione 206 of St. Dominic 189 of Hentius or Enzelin 190 of Jo. de Fuc. 147 of St. Luke 132 of Michael Angelo 180 of St. Peter 27 of Raphael Urbin 23 of Richard King of England 164 of a Duke of Rohan 262 Tombs of the Horatii and Curatii 88 of the three Kings 219 of the Naso's 52 of the Great Dukes of Tuscany 179 Ancient Tombs of the Christians 133 Tongue of Stammerers see Austria Tortoises 192 Town turn'd to Stone 67 Tower of Bristol 191 of Cremona 199 of Florence 176 See Steeple Towers of Bologna 190 of Pisa 158 of Sienna 152 of Viterbo 143 The Transfiguration the best and last Work of Raphael 73 Treaty of St. Julian 258 Trees in Italy 247 Naval Triumph 120 Ancient Trophies ibid. Trouts 259 Trunk of Belvedere 31 A dry Trunk of a Tree blossoms 178 Tulips dear 65 Tullia a rare Statue 92 Tullianum an ancient Prison 124 Divers Tuns 240 Turin 235 Turnep exactly resembling a Hand 157 A fine Turquoise 174 V Valentin a House of Pleasure belonging to the Duke of Savoy 236 Vatican Palace 28 Vaticanus ibid. Venus roughly handl'd 39 68 The famous Venus of Medicis 174 Verrua a fortified Town in Piedmont 234 Versailles 59 61 Verses on the preservation of Health 258 on the Popes 85 86 Fine Antique Vessels 40 139 173 174 Vessels of the Temple of Solomon 125 Ugolino at Bologna 187 Ugonottorum Strages 31 Via Aemilia 143 Katherine de Vigri 188 Villa Benedetti 55 Borghese 64 Chigi 67 Ludovisia 66 Montalta or Savelli 67 Pamphili ibid. Virgil in Manuscript 32 born at Andes 203 Conception of the Virgin 151 Viterbo 143 Unicorns 211 University of Bologna 185 of Lovain 281 of Parma 197 of Pavia 220 Volto Santo 162 Utrecht 279 W Wardrobe of the Great Duke of Tuscany 175 Washing of the Feet of Pilgrims at Rome 117 Water at Antwerp 298 of the Nile 222 of the Tesin very cold ibid. Aldobrandin Wedding 49 Wedding of St. Katherin of Sienna 150 of the Virgin Mary 30 An extraordinary Well 236 Whores settl'd at Rome by Popes 48 William III. See King's Evil. William Tell a Switzer 77 265 Italian Wine 240 Complement of Wine in Switzerland 270 She-Wolf of Romulus 65 120 Women of Brussels 288 enslav'd 37 enter but once a year into St. Peter 's Chapel 27 invisible at Florence 182 separated from Men at Church 247 Women and Men ride in different Coaches 197 Apology for Women 78 A Woman with a Beard like a Capuchin Fryar 187 A Woman in love with a Gladiator 66 English Women happy 37 Odd Habits of Women See Habits Senate of Women 126 Warlike Women 229 A Worm found in a Flint 62 Writing awry 216 Sibyllin Writings 124 Z Barth Zanicheli 192 Fred. Zucchero a Painter 176 Zuccone the Work of Donatelli 177 FINIS