Cotas either to bee revenged of the Britains who aided the Gaules as Strabo saith or in hope of British pearles as Suctonius reporteth or inflamed with an ambitious desire of glory as others doe record in the yeare before Christs nativitie fiftie foure and once againe in the yeare ensuing entred into Britaine having before hand sounded the havens by his espialls as Suâ—tonius and himselfe doth testifie and not as Roger Bachon fableth by setting certaine looking glasses upon the coast of Gaule and by Art perspective which by reflection multiplieth hidden formes What hee exploited here himselfe hath at large delivered in his Commentaries and I likewise before have summarily abridged out of him and the writings of Suetonius concerning Scaeva whose valourous service during the civill warre was notably seen above others at Dyrrachium and whom our Poet Ioseph of Excester in his Antiocheis and namely in these his verses touching Britaine reported I know not how truely to have beene a Britaine borne Hinc et Scaeva satus pars non obscura tumulius Civilis MAGNVM solus qui mole solutâ Obsedit meliorque stetit pro Caesare murus Here borne also was Scaeva he that bare no little sway In all these civill broiles the Fort that stood full in his way Alone he brake Pompey besieged was Caesars strongest stay But what were the exploits of Caesar in this our country learne you may of himselfe and out of that which hath before beene written For neither as yet have I met with that old father a Britaine whom Marcus Aper as we read in Quintilian saw in this Island who avowed that he was present at the battaile in which they assaied to keepe Caesar from landing when he came to warre upon them neither is it any part of my meaning now to write an Historie but a Topographie Vpon this shore lie out with a long traine certaine heapes in manner of bankes or rampiers which some imagine that the winde swept up together But I suppose them to have beene a fence and countermure or rather the Ship-campe which Caesar raised with ten daies and as many nights labour to haile up thereto his sea-beaten and shaken Navie and to defend it both against tempests and also the Britaines who in vaine did assaile it For I understand by relation of the dwellers thereby that this rampier is called Romes-worke as if it were A worke of the Romans And so much the rather believe I that Caesar arrived heere because hee writeth that seven miles from hence for so wee reade in the ancient bookes corrected by Flavius Constantinus a man of Consul degree the sea is kept in and compassed with such streight mountaines that for the higher places a dart may bee flung to the very shore verily as soone as we are past Deale a mightie ridge of steepe high Cliffs Cicero termeth them moles magnificas that is Stately cliffes bringing forth Samphyre in great plenty runneth for seven miles or there about as far as to Dover where it openeth it selfe and of that nature is the place that right as Caesar writeth betweene two hills it letteth in and encloseth the sea Within this partition and separation of the Cliffes lieth DVBRIS which Antonine the Emperour mentioneth the Saxons name it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and we Dover This name was given unto it as Darell out of Eadmer writeth because the place was shut up and hard to come unto For when as saith he in ancient times the sea there barbarous spreaded it selfe upon urgent necessitie to make it a more commodious haven they kept it in with more streight bounds Howbeit William Lambard with more probabilitie fetched the reason of this name from the word Dufyrrha which in the British language betokeneth a place steepe and upright The towne which is seated betweene high clyffes whereas some-time the haven was when the sea more insinuated it selfe as wee collect by the anchors and ship planks that are digged there up is more famous for the commodiousnesse of the haven such as it is and for readie passage into France than for any elegancie or great trade For it is a place of passage of all other most haunted and it was provided in old time by a speciall Statute that no man going forth of the realme in pilgrimage should else where embarque and take sea more-over it is reckoned one of the Cinque-ports and in times past it was charged to furnish and set out one and twenty ships unto the warres in the same manner and forme as Hastings did whereof I have already spoken Toward the sea now somewhat excluded by Beach it was fenced with a wall whereof some part as yet standeth It had a faire church consecrated unto Saint Martin founded by Whitred King of Kent an house also of the Knights-Templars which now are quite gone and nothing to bee seene of them It yeildeth likewise a seat for the Archbishop of Canterburies Suffragans who when the Archbishop is busied in weightier affaires mannageth for him matters that pertaine to Orders onely and not to the Episcopall jurisdiction From the top of a rough and cragâ—iâ— cliffe which mounteth up to a wonderfull height where it looketh downe to the sea a most statey Castle like unto a prettie Citie fortified right strongly with bul-warkes and many a Tower overlooketh and threatneth after a sort the sea under it Matthew of Paris calleth it the Key and Locke The Barre and Sparre of England The common sort of people dreameth that it was built by Iulius Caesar and verily I suppose by the British Bricks in the Chappell there that it was built by the Romans who used such in their great buildings What time as the Roman Empire declined they placed here a band or companie of the Tungricanes who were accounted among the Aides-Palatine out of whose armoury and munition happily were those big arrowes which the Castellanes doe now shew for wonders and were wont to bee discharged then and many yeares after before the invention of great Ordnance out of engines called Balistae like huge crosse-bowes bent by force of two or foure men From the entrance of the English Saxons into this land unto the expiation of their Kingdome no where could I as yet reade so much as one bare word of this Castle or the Towne save onely in certaine by-notes out of a Table that was heere hanged upon a wall which reported that Caesar having arrived at Deale and discomfited the Britaines at Baramdowne which is a plaine adjoyning fit for horse fight and meete to embattaile an armie in began the Castle of Dover and that Arviragus afterward fortified it against the Romans and stopped up the haven Also that after him King Arthur and his knights vanquished I wot not what rebels heere Howbeit a little before the Normans comming in it was reputed the onely defence and strength of England and for that cause William Duke of Normandie bound Harold by on oath to
a small Towne which for no other thing is memorable but because Anna a Christian King was there buried whom Penda the Mercian slew in a pitched Field It was beautified by King Henry the First with a Colledge of Chanons who granted the same as a Cell to the Chanons of Saint Osiths And it was made a Mercate by the meanes of Iohn Lord of Clavering unto whom King Edward the Second gave this Liberty together with the Faire And verily a goodly Inheritance hee had in this Tract as who derived his Descent from the Daughter and Heire of William Cheney who held the Barony of Horsford in the County of Norfolke and erected the little Abbay at Sibton Heere the Promontory Easton-Nesse shooteth out and reacheth farre into the East which is deemed to bee the farthest East point in all Britaine Ptolomee calleth it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or EXTENSIO And that you may not doubt that this is the very same which wee call Easton bee it knowne unto you that Eysteney in the British tongue is the same that in Greeke 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and in Latine Extensio that is A stretching forth although this name may seeme with as good probability to have beene imposed in our English Language of the Situation Eastward Upon the point of this Promontory standeth Easton a Village of Fishermen well neere eaten up by Sea and on South side of this Promontory Southwold lieth in the Plaine full against the open shore of the sea a Towne well enough frequented through the benefit of an Haven that the River Blith emptying it selfe there into the Sea maketh and at every high water it is so invironed with the waves that it seemeth to bee an Island and a man would wonder that it is not overflowne In so much as when I saw the manner thereof I called that saying of Cicero into my remembrance What should I speak of the Sea Tides about Spaine and Britaine and of their Flowing and Ebbing at certaine times Surely they cannot bee without the hand of God who hath restrained and gaged the waves within their bounds More within the land Wingfield sheweth it selfe where the walles of a Castle halfe downe are to bee seene which hath given name to a family in this Tract that is spred into a number of branches and is besides for knighthood and ancient Gentility renowned and thereof it was the principall seat Also Dunnington which standeth much upon the Lord thereof Sir Iohn Philips father to that Sir William who married the daughter and Heire of Baron Bardolph whose daughter and Heire likewise Iohn Vicount Beaumont tooke to Wife But now the Habitation it is of the ancient Family of the Rousses Not farre from hence standeth Huntingfield which had a Baron of that name in King Edward the Third his time and neere unto it Heveningham the residence of the Family of Heveningham knights who are knowne to bee of very great antiquity and not farre off standeth Halesworth in times past Healsworda an ancient Towne of the Argentons and now of the Alingtons unto which Sir Richard Argenton obtained at the hand of King Henry the Third the liberty of a Mercate I gave you to understand before that two small Rivers Ouse the least and Waveney on the North side divided this County from Norfolke which Riverets rising out of a Marish ground by Lophamford from two springs but a little a sunder one from another take their courses divers wayes with creekes full of shallow fourds Along by Ouse which runneth Westward there is nothing in this Quarter to bee seene worth the report By Waveney side that tendeth Eastward first is Hoxon in times past Hegilsdon ennobled by reason of King Edmunds Martyrdome For there the most cruell and bloudy Danes that I may use the words of Abbo having bound the most Christian King to a tree for that hee would not renounce Christianity shot him in with sharpe arrowes all his body over augmenting the paines of his torment with continuall piercing him with arrow after arrow and thus inflicted wound upon wound so long as one arrow could stand by another And as a Poet of middle time versified of him Iam loca vulneribus desunt nec dum furiosis Tela sed hyberna grandine plura volant Though now no place was left for wound yet arrowes did not faile These furious Wretches still they flie thicker than winter haile In which place afterwards stood a very faire house of the Bishops of Norwich untill they exchanged it not long since for the Abbay of Saint Benet Hard by at Brome dwelt a long time the family of Cornwalleis of knights degree of whom Sir Iohn Cornwal was Steward of Edward the Sixth his Houshold while hee was Prince and his sonne Sir Thomas for his wisdome and faithfulnesse became one of the privie counsell to Queene Mary and Controller of her royall House Beneath it lieth Eay that is The Island so called because it is watered on every side with brookes where are to bee seene the rubbish ruines and decayed walles of an old Castle that belonged to Robert Malet a Norman Baron But after that he under King Henry the First was deprived of his Dignity because he sided with Robert Duke of Normandy against the King the said King bestowed this Honour upon Stephen Earle of Bullen who being afterwards the Vsufructuary King of England left it unto his son William Earle of Warren But after hee had surrendred his State to King Henry the Second and lost his life in the expedition of Tholose the King held it in his owne hands untill that King Richard the First confer'd it upon Henry the Fifth of that name Duke of Brabant and of Lorain together with King Stephens Neece by his daughter who had beene a professed Nunne Long time after when it was now devolved againe upon the Kings of England King Edward the third gave it as I have read to Sir Robert Vfford Earle of Suffolke Neither must I passe over in silence Bedingfield neere adjoyning which gave the name to a worshipfull and ancient Family that received very much reputation and credit from the Heire of the Family of Tudenham From thence by Flixton in stead of Felixton so named of Faelix the first Bishop of these parts like as many other places in this Shire the River Waveney runneth downe to Bungey and spreadeth it selfe in manner round about it where Hugh Bigod fortified a Castle both by artificiall workmanship and also by naturall situation when as the seditious Barons tossed all England to and fro with stormes of rebellion Concerning which Castle as impregnable he was wont to vaunt in these termes Were I in my Castle of Bungey Upon the River of Waveney I would ne care for the King of Cockeney Yet notwithstanding afterwards he obtained at the hands of King Henry the Second by giving him
all England made fruitfull by meanes of very many Masters and Teachers proceeding out of Cambridge in manner of the Holy Paradise c. But at what time it became an Vniversity by authority Robert de Remington shall tell you Vnder the Reigne saith hee of Edward the First Grantbridge of a Schoole was made an Vniversity such as Oxenford is by the Court of Rome But what meane I thus unadvisedly to step into these lists Wherein long since two most learned old men have encountred one with another Unto whom verely as to right learned men I am willing to yeeld up my weapons and vaile bonnet with all reverence The Meridian line cutting the Zenith just over Cambridge is distant from the furthest West poynt twenty three degrees and twenty five scruples And the Arch of the same Meridian lying betweene the Aequator and Verticall poynt is fiftie two degrees and II. scruples Cam from Cambridge continuing his course by Waterbeach an ancient seat of Nuns which Lady Mary S. Paul translated from thence to Denny somewhat higher but nothing healthfuller when in a low ground he hath spread a Mere associateth himselfe with the River Ouse But to returne hard under Cambridge Eastward neere unto Sture a little brooke is kept every yeere in the moneth of September the greatest Faire of all England whether you respect the multitude of buyers and sellers resorting thither or the store of commodities there to be vented Hard by whereas the way was most comberous and troublesome to passengers to and fro that right good and praise-worthy man G. Hervy Doctor of the Civill Law and M. of Trinity Hall in Cambridge made not long since with great charges but of a Godly and laudable intent a very faire raised Causey for three miles or thereabout in length toward Neumercat Neere unto Cambridge on the South-East side there appeare aloft certaine high Hills the Students call them Gogmagog-Hills Henry of Huntingdon tearmed them Amoenissima montana de Balsham that is The most pleasant Mountaines of Balsham by reason of a little Village standing beneath them wherein as hee writeth the Danes left no kinde of most savage cruelty unattempted On the top of these hills I saw a Fort intrenched and the same very large strengthened with a threefold Rampire an hold surely in those dayes inexpugnable as some skilfull men in feats of Warre bee of opinion were it not that water is so farre off Gervase of Tilbury seemeth to call it Vandelbiria Beneath Cambridge saith he there was a place named Vandelbiria for that the Vandals wasting the parts of Brittaine with cruell slaughter of Christians there encamped themselves where upon the very top of the hill they pitched their Tents there is a Plaine inclosed round with a Trench and Rampire which hath entrance into it but in one place as it were at a Gate Touching the Martiall spectre or sprite that walked here which he addeth to the rest because it is but a meere toyish and fantasticall devise of the doting vulgar sort I willing over-passe it For it is not my purpose to tell pleasant tales and tickle eares In the Vale under these hills is Salston to be seene which from the Burges of Burgh-Green by Walter De-la-pole and Ingalthorp came unto Sir Iohn Nevill Marquesse Mont-acute and by his daughter and one of his heires to the Hudlestons who have lived here in worship and reputation More Eastward first we meete with Hildersham belonging sometimes to the Bustlers and now by marriage to the Parises Further hard by the Woods is Horsheath situate the Possession whereof is knowne by a long descent to have pertained unto the ancient Families of the Argentons and Alingtons of whom elsewhere I have written and is now the habitation of the Alingtons Adjoyning hereunto is Castle Camps the ancient seat also of the Veres Earles of Oxford which Hugh Vere held as the old booke of Inquisition Records That he might be the Kings Chamberleine whereas notwithstanding most true it is that Henry the First King of England granted unto Aubry de Vere that Office in these words The principall Chamberlaineship of all England in Fee and Inheritance with all the Dignities Liberties and Honours thereto belonging as freely and honourably as Robert Mallet held the same c. The Kings notwithstanding ordained sometimes one and sometimes another at their pleasure to execute this Office The Earles of Oxford also that I may note it incidently by the heire of R. Sandford held the Manours of Fingrey and Wulfelmelston by Serjeanty of Chamberlainship to the Queenes at the Coronation of the Kings Not far from hence are seene here and there those great and long Ditches which certainly the East Angles did cast to restraine the Mercians who with sudden inrodes were wont most outragiously to make havocke of all before them The first of these beginneth at Hinkeston runneth Eastward by Hildersham toward Hors-heath about five miles in length The second neere unto this called Brentditch goeth from Melborne by Fulmer Where D. Hervies cawsey which I mentioned endeth there appeareth also a third forefence or ditch cast up in old time which beginning at the East banke of the river Cam reacheth directly by Fenn-Ditton or more truly Ditch-ton so called of the very Ditch betweene great Wilberham and Fulburn as farre as to Balsham At this day this is called commonly Seauen mile Dyke because it is seaven miles from Newmercate in times past Fleam-Dyke in old English that is Flight-Dyke of some memorable flight there as it seemeth At the said Wilberham sometimes called Wilburgham dwelt in times past the Barons Lisle of Rong-mount men of ancient nobility of whom John for his Martiall prowesse was by King Edward the Third ranged among the first founders of the order of the Garter and of that Family there yet remaineth an heire Male a reverend old Man and full of Children named Edmund Lisle who is still Lord of this place More East from hence five miles within the Country is to bee seene the fourth forefence or ditch the greatest of all the rest with a rampier thereto which the common people wondring greatly at as a worke made by Devils and not by men use to call Devils-Dyke others Rech-Dyke of Rech a little mercate towne where it beginneth This is doubtlesse that whereof Abbo Floriacensis when he describeth the sight of East England writeth thus From that part whereas the Sun inclineth Westward the Province it selfe adjoyneth to the rest of the Island and is therefore passable but for feare of being overrun with many invasions and inrodes of enemies it is fortified in the front with a banke or rampier like unto an huge wall and with a Trench or Ditch below in the ground This for many miles together cutteth overthwart that Plaine which is called Newmarket-heath where it lay open to incursions beginning at Rech above which the Country
withdrawne it selfe more inwardly Upon this Bay Kidwelly first offereth it selfe to our sight the Territory whereof Kâ—tani the Scot his sonnes held for a time untill they were driven out by Cuneda the Britan. But now it is counted part of the inheritance of the Dutchy of Lancaster by the heires of Maurice of London or De Londres who making an outroad hither out of Glamorgan-shire after a dangerous war made himselfe Lord heereof and fortified old Kidwelly with a wall and Castle to it which now for very age is growne to decay and standeth as it were forlet and forlorne For the Inhabitants having passed over the little River Vendraeth Vehan built a new Kidwelly entised thither by the commodity of the haven which notwithstanding at this day being choked with shelves and barres is at this present of no great use Whiles Maurice of London invaded these parts Guenliana the wife of Prince Gruffin a stout and resolute woman in the highest degree to recover the losses and declining state of her husband came with displaied banner into the field and fiercely assailed him but the successe not answerable to her courage shee with her sonne Morgan and other men of especiall note as Girald recordeth was slaine in battaile By Hawis or Avis the daughter and heire of Sir Thomas of London this passing faire and large patrimony together with the Title of Lord of Ogmor and Kidwelly came unto Patricke-Chaworth and by his sonne Patrickes daughter unto Henry Earle of Lancaster Now the heires of the said Maurice of London as we learne out of an old Inquisition for this inheritance were bound to this service that if their Soveraigne Lord the King or his chiefe Justice came into the parts about Kidwelly with an Army they should conduct the foresaid Army with their banners and their people through the middest of Nethland as farre as to Loghar A few miles beneath Kidwelly the River Tovie which Ptolomee calleth TOBIUS falleth into the the Sea after he hath passed through this Region from North-East to South first by Lanandiffry so called as men thinke of Rivers meeting together which Hoel the sonne of Rhese overthrew for malice that hee bare unto the English then by Dinevor a princely Castle standing aloft upon the top of an hill and belonging unto the Princes of South Wales whiles they flourished and last of all by Caer Marden which the Britans themselves call Caer-Firdhin Ptolomee MARIDUNUM Antonine MURIDUNUM who endeth his Journeies there and through negligence of the transcribers is in this place not well used For they have confounded the Journeies from Galena to Isca and from Maridunum to Viriconium This is the chiefe City of the country for medowes and woods pleasant and in regard of antiquity to be respected Compassed about very properly as Giraldus saith with bricke walles which are partly yet standing upon the famous river Tovit able to beare small ships although there be now a barre of sand cast up against the very mouth thereof In this City was borne the Tages of the Britans I meane Merlin For like as Tages being the sonne of an evill Angell taught his Countrimen the Tuscans the art of Sooth saying so this Merlin the sonne of an Incubus Spirit devised for our Britans prophesies nay rather meere phantasticall dreames Whereby in this Island he hath been accounted among the credulous and unskilfull people a most renowned Prophet Straight after the Normans entring into Wales this City was reduced but I wot not by whose conduct under their subjection and for a long time sore afflicted with many calamities and distresses being oftentimes assaulted once or twice set on fire first by Gruffin ap Rise then by Rise the said Gruffins brother at which time Henry Turbervill an Englishman succoured the Castle and hewed downe the Bridge But afterwards by the meanes of Gilbert de Clare who fortified both the walles thereof and the Castles adjoyning it was freed from these miseries and being once eased of all grievances and in security endured afterwards more easily from time to time the tempests of warre and all assaults And the Princes of Wales of the English bloud I meane the first begotten sonnes of the Kings of England ordained heere their Chauncery and Exchequer for all South Wales Neere unto this City on the East side lyeth Cantred-Bichan that is The lesse Hundred for the Britans terme a portion of land that containeth 100. Villages a Cantred in which beside the ruines of Careg Castle situate upon a Rocke rising on every side steepe and upright there are many under-mines or caves of very great widenesse within the ground now covered all over with green-sord and turfe wherein it is thought the multitude unable to beare armes hid themselves during the heate of warre there is also heere a Fountaine that as Giraldus writeth Twice in foure and twenty houres ebbing and twice flowing resembleth the unstable motions of the maine Sea But on the North-East side there stretcheth it selfe a great way out Cantredmaur that is The great hundred a most safe refuge for the Britans in times past as being thicke set with woods combersome to travaile in by reason the waies are intricate by the windings in and out of the hils Southward stand Talcharn and Lhan-Stephan Castles upon rockes of the Sea which are most notable witnesses of martiall valour and prowesse as well in the English as in the Welsh Beneath Talcharn Taff sheddeth it selfe into the Sea by the side whereof was in times past that famous Twy Gwin ar Taff that is The white house upon the River Taff because it was built of white Hazels for a summer house where in the yeere of our Redemption 914. Hoel sirnamed Dha that is Good Prince of Wales in a frequent Assembly of his States for there met there beside others of the Clergie one hundred and forty abrogated the ancient ordinances and established new lawes for his Subjects as the Prooeme to the very lawes themselves doe witnesse In which place afterward a little Abbay named White land was built Not farre from whence is Killmayn Lhoyd where of late daies certaine country people hapned upon an earthen Vessell in which was hourded a mighty deale of Romane Coine of embased silver from the time of Commodus the Romane Emperour who first embased silver unto the fifth Tribuneship of Gordian the third which fell just with the yeere of Christ 243. Among these were certaine peeces of Helvius Pertinax of Marcus Opellius of Antoninus Diadumenianus of Julius Verus Maximus the sonne of Maximinus of Calius Balbivus of Clodius Pupienus of Aquilia Severa the wife of Elagabalus and of Sall. Barbia Orbiana which among Antiquaries are of greatest price and estimation as being most rare of all others Now it remaineth that I should relate how upon the river Tivy that separateth this County from Cardigan-shire there standeth New-Castle for so they call
BRITAIN OR A CHOROGRAPHICALL DESCRIPTION OF THE MOST flourishing Kingdomes ENGLAND SCOTLAND and IRELAND and the Islands adjoyning out of the depth of ANTIQVITIE BEAVTIFIED WITH MAPPES OF THE severall Shires of ENGLAND VVritten first in Latine by William Camden CLARENCEUX K. of A. Translated newly into English by Philémon Holland Doctour in Physick Finally revised amended and enlarged with sundry Additions by the said Author LONDON Printed by F. K. R. Y. and I. L. for GEORGE LATHAM 1637. BRITANNIA SI jactare licet mà gnorum munera diuûm Sibique veris fas placere dotibus Cur mihi non videar fortunatissima tellus Digna est malis bona quae parùm novit sua Vltima lanigeris animosa est India lucis Suis superbus est Arabs odoribus Thuriferis gaudet Panchaia dives arenis Ibera flumen terra jactat aureum Aegypto faciunt animos septem ostia Nili Laudata Rheni vina tollunt accolaâ— Laeta nec uberibus sibi displicet Africa glebis Haec portubus superbit illa mercibus At mihi nec fontes nec ditia flumina desunt Sulcive pingues prata nec ridentia Foeta viris foecunda feris foecunda metallis Ne glorier quòd ambiens largas opes Porrigit Oceanus neu quòd nec amicius ullâ Coelum nec aura dulcius spirat plagâ Serus in occiduas mihi Phoebus conditur undas Sororque noctes blanda ducit lucidas Possem ego laudati contemnere vellera Baetis Vbi villus albis mollior bidentibus Et tua non nequeam miracula temnere Memphi Verùm illa mà jor justiorque gloria Quòd Latiis quòd sum celebrata Britannia Grails Orbem vetustas quòd vocarit alterum For the easier reading of the English-Saxon words in this Booke I thought good to prefixe heere the Characters of the English Saxon Alphabet A a b b c c d d E E e e f f g g h h i i l l m m n n o o p p q q r r S S s s t t u u Æ¿ w X X x x y y AE AE ae ae à Th ð th þ th and ê§ that PVELIVS OVIDIVS NASO Nescio qua natale solum dulcedine cunctos Ducit immemores non sinit esse sui BRITAIN OR A CHOROGRAPHICALL DESCRIPTION OF THE MOST flourishing Kingdomes ENGLAND SCOTLAND and IRELAND and the Islands adjoyning out of the depth of ANTIQVITIE BEAVTIFIED WITH MAPPES OF THE severall Shires of ENGLAND VVritten first in Latine by William Camden CLARENCEUX K. of A. Translated newly into English by Philémon Holland Doctour in Physick Finally revised amended and enlarged with sundry Additions by the said Author LONDON Printed by F. K. R. Y. and I. L. for GEORGE LATHAM 1637. SERENISSIMO POTENTISSIMOQVE PRINCIPI IACOBO BRITANNIAE MAGNAE FRANCIAE ET HIBERNIAE REGI FIDEI PROPVGNATORI AD AETERNITATEM BRITANNICI NOMINIS IMPERIIQVE NATO PERPETVAE PACIS FVNDATORI PVBLICAE SECVRITATIS AVTHORI GVILIELMVS CAMDENVS MAIESTATI EIVS DEVOTISSIMVS D. D. CONSECRATQVE THE AVTHOR TO The Reader I Hope it shall be to no discredite if I now use againe by way of Preface the same words with a few more that I used twentie foure yeares since in the first edition of this worke Abraham Ortelius the worthy restorer of Ancient Geographic arriving heere in England about thirtie foure yeares past dealt earnestly with mee that I would illustrate this Isle of BRITAINE or as he said that I would restore antiquitie to Britaine and Britaine to his antiquitie which was as I understood that I would renew ancientrie enlighten obscuritie cleare doubts and recall home Veritie by way of recovery which the negligence of writers and credulity of the common sort had in a manner prescribed and utterly banished from amongst us A painfull matter I assure you and more than difficult wherein what toyle is to be taken as no man thinketh so no man believeth but hee that hath made the triall Neverthelesse how much the difficultie discouraged mee from it so much the glory of my country encouraged me to undertake it So while at one and the same time I was fearefull to undergoe the burthen and yet desirous to doe some service to my Country I found two different affections Feare and Boldnesse I know not how conjoyned in me Notwithstanding by the most gracious direction of the ALMIGHTY taking INDVSTRY for my consort I adventured upon it and with all my studie care cogitation continuall meditation paine and travaile I imploied my selfe thereunto when I had any spare time I made search after the Etymologie of Britain the first Inhabitants timorously neither in so doubtfull a matter have I affirmed ought confidently For I am not ignorant that the first originals of nations are obscure by reason of their profound antiquitie as things which are seene very deepe and far remote like as the courses the reaches the confluencies the out-lets of great rivers are wel knowne yet their first fountaines and heads lie commonly unknown I have succinctly run over the Romans government in Britain and the inundation of forraigne people thereinto what they were and from whence they came I have traced out the ancient divisions of these Kingdomes I have summarily specified the states and judiciall Courts of the same In the severall Counties I have compendiously set downe the limits and yet not exactly by pearch and pole to breed questions what is the nature of the soile which were places of greatest antiquitie who have beene the Dukes Marquesses Earles Vicounts Barons and some of the most signall and ancient families therein for who can particulate all What I have performed I leave to men of judgement But time the most sound and sincere witnes will give the truest information when envy which persecuteth the living shall have her mouth stopped Thus much give me leave to say that I have in no wise neglected such things as are most materiall to search and sift out the Truth I have attained to some skill of the most ancient British and English-Saxon tongues I have travailed over all England for the most part I have conferred with most skilfull observers in each country I have studiously read over our owne country writers old and new all Greeke and Latine authors which have once made mention of Britaine I have had conference with learned men in other parts of Christendome I have been diligent in the Records of this Realme I have looked into most Libraries Registers and memorials of Churches Cities and Corporations I have pored upon many an old Rowle and Evidence and produced their testimonie as beyond all exception when the cause required in their very own words although barbarous they be that the honour of veritie might in no wise be impeached For all this I may be censured unadvised and scant modest who being but of the lowest fourme in the schoole of Antiquitie where I might well have lurked in obscuritie have adventured as a scribler upon the stage in this learned age amidst the diversities of
see And on the other Hoc Anglis signo Regem fatearis eundem By this a King to Englishmen acknowledge him to be Moreover as William of Malmesburie doth report In imitation of Caesars policy who expelled the Germans lying hidden within that huge forrest Ardenna and by many asallie from thence annoying his armie not by the helpe of his owne Romans but by the Gaules his confederates to this end that whiles strangers and aliens killed one another himselfe might triumph with their bloud-shed the very same course I say did William take with the English men For against certaine of them who upon the first battell of that infortunate man Harold were fled into Denmarke and Ireland and returned with a puissant armie in the third yeere after he opposed meere English forces and an English generall permitting the Normans to sit still and keepe holiday foreseeing heereby and providing for his owne great easement whether of them soever should have the better Neither was he in this point frustrate of his purpose For the English having thus a prettie while skuffeled and skirmished one with another in the end rendred up the entire Victorie to the King without his paines taking And in another place Having undermined and quite overthrowne the power of the Laimen he provided by a sure and irrevocable edict to suffer no Monke or Clerke of the English Nation to endevour for to get any dignitie much disagreeing herein from the clemencie and gentlenesse of King Cnuto in times past who gave unto those that he conquered all their honours entire And hence it came to passe that when hee was once dead the naturall Inhabitants of the countrey upon light occasions fell to driving out of strangers and recovered unto themselves their ancient right and freedome When he had brought this to passe above all things hee laboured to turne away the storme of the Danish wars that hung over his head and to purchase peace though it were with round sums of mony Wherein he used Adelbert Archbishop of Hamburgh as his Instrument For Adam Bremensis writeth thus Betweene Suen and the Bastard there was continuall strife about England although our Bishop being greased in the hand with Williams bribes would have concluded a firme peace betwixt the Kings Which may seeme also to have beene established for since that time England was never any whit afraid of the Danes And William verily betooke himselfe wholly to the defence and maintenance of his Imperiall dignitie and to governe the state by excellent lawes For as Gervase of Tilburie writeth When the renowned Conqueror of England King William had subdued the farther coasts of this Island under his dominion and throughly tamed the stomacks and hearts of rebels by terrible examples lest that from thenceforth they should licentiously run into errour and commit trespasse he determined to reduce his subjects under the obedience of positive and written Lawes Having therefore all the lawes of England laid before him according to the Tripartite Division whereby they were distinguished that is to say Merchenlag Denelag and Westsex-enlag when hee had rejected some of them and allowed of others he adjoyned thereto those Lawes of Neustria beyond the seas which seemed most effectuall to preserve the peace of his Kingdome Afterwards as mine Author Ingulphus saith who flourished in those daies He commanded every Inhabitant of England to doe him homage and to sweare fealtie to him against all men He tooke the survey and description of the whole Land neither was there an Hide of England through but he knew both the value and the owner thereof there was neither plash nor place but set it was in the Kings Roll and the rent revenue and profit thereof the very tenure of possession and possessour himselfe was made knowne to the King according to the credit and true relation of certaine Taxers who being chosen out of every country did put downe in writing the territorie properly belonging thereto And this Roll was called the Roll of Winchester and by the Englishmen for the generalitie thereof because it contained fully and exactly all the tenements of the whole Land named Domesday I have beene more willing to make mention of this booke because it is to be cited alleaged often times hereafter which booke also it pleaseth me to name Gulielmi librum Censualem that is The Tax-booke of William Angliae Notitiam that is The Notice of England Angliae commentarios Censuales that is The Taxe Register or Sessing booke of England and Angliae Lustrum that is the Survey of England But whereas Polydore Virgill writeth how William that Conqueror first brought in the Triall or Iudgement of twelve men there is nothing more untrue For most certaine it is and apparant by the lawes of Etheldred that it was in use many yeares before Neither hath he any cause to terme it a terrible Iudgement For these 12. free-borne and lawfull men are duely by order empannelled and called forth of the Neighbourhood these are bound by oath to pronounce and deliver up their Verdict de facto they heare the counsell pleading in courts on both sides before the Bench or Tribunall and the disposition of witnesses then taking with them the evidences of both parties they are shut up together and kept from meat drinke and fire unlesse haply some one of them be in danger of death thereby so long untill they be all agreed of the fact which when they have pronounced before the Judge hee according to right and law giveth his definitive sentence For this manner of triall our most sage and wise Ancestours have thought the best to finde out the truth to avoid corruption and cut off all partialitie and affections Now as touching martiall prowesse how much the Normans excelled therein let others tell this may suffice for me to have said thus much that being planted among most warlike nations they alwaies saved themseves not by obsequious basenesse but by force of armes and founded most noble Kingdomes in England and Sicilie For Tancrede nephew unto Richard the second of that name Duke of Normandie and his posteritie atchieved brave exploits in Italie and having compelled the Sarazens to flie out of Sicilie erected a Kingdome there Whereupon the Sicilian Historiographer doth freely acknowledge that the Sicilians are beholden unto the Normans for that themselves remaine still in their native soile live in freedome and continue Christians Likewise in the holy Land their martiall prowesse hath been seen with singular commendation Hence it is also that Roger Hoveden writeth in these termes Bold France having made triall once of the Normans warfare durst not peepe out Fierce England being conquered yielded as captive unto them Rich Apulia falling to the lot of their possession flourished a fresh Famous Ierusalem and renowned Antioch were both subdued by them And ever since their comming England as well for martiall honour as civill behaviour hath among the most flourishing Kingdomes of
service of Chamberlaine in Chef from our soveraigne Lord the King But under Edward the Third I have read that this was held by Sergeantie namely by holding the Laver or Ewre for the King his Soveraigne Lord to wash upon his Coronation day Also Raulph Moien held the Mannour of Owres neere adjoyning by service of Serjeantie in the Kitchin of the gift likewise of King Henry the First and R. de Welles the Mannour of Welles heereabout since the Conquest of England by the service of the Kings Baker Which I note onely by the way Where Frome maketh his issue into that Bay whereupon Poole is scituate hard by the very mouth is planted Warham in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 a towne strongly seated on every side but Westward as being fenced on all parts beside with the rivers Trent Frome and the Sea together In King Edward the Confessors time it had two Mint maisters but whiles William the Conquerour raigned it could not reckon above seven dwelling houses in it Yet afterwards it flourished againe fortified with the wall furnished with a mint house a great number of Inhabitants and a most strong Castle which that King William the First built it continued in a most flourishing state untill the daies of King Henry the Second who when hee came to challenge the Crowne of England in the yeare 1142 hee arrived heere besieged and tooke the Castle which was defended by Robert Lacy against him in behalfe of King Stephen and afterward Robert of Lincolne a man of mightie possessions in these parts defended the same against King Stephen But from that time by occasion partly of warres and partly of sudden casualtie by fires by reason also that the sea by little and little which draweth the commoditie of an haven it is almost run to ruine and in the very heart of the old towne it bringeth forth store of garlick At this mouth likewise is discharged another small river with Frome Asserius calleth it Trent but now the Inhabitants thereby name it Piddle From the North banke whereof scarce three miles off I saw the ruins of Middleton Abbey which King Athelstane founded as a satisfaction to appease the ghost and soule of his brother Edwine whom hee had deprived both of his Kingdome and life For when that solicitous desire of raigning had caused him quite to forget all Justice hee put the young Prince heire apparant to the Crowne with one page into a little whirrey without any tackling or furniture thereto to the end he might impute his wickednesse to the waves And so the young Prince overcome with griefe of heart and unable to master his owne passions cast himselfe headlong into the sea Under this Middleton there is voided also another river which runneth hard by Bere a little mercate towne where for a long time that ancient and famous family de Turbida villa commonly Turbervill had their chief habitation whereof as some were famous so Hugh Turburvill in the time of King Edward the First was infamous for his traiterous practises with the French But to goe backe againe to the West part of the shire At the spring head of Frome where the soile is most fruitfull the forrest of Blackmore sometimes thicke and full of trees but now thinner growne yeildeth plentifull game for hunting This by a more common and better knowne name is called The Forrest of white hart The reason of which name the Inhabitants by tradition from their forefathers report to be thus When King Henry the Third came hither to hunt and had taken other Deere he spared a most beautifull and goodly White-Hart which afterwards T. de la-Lynde a gentleman of this countrey with others in his company tooke and killed but how perillous a matter it was to bee twitching as they say of a lion they soone found and felt For the King conceived great indignation and high displeasure against them put them to a grievous fine of money for it and the very lands which they held pay even to this day every yeare by way of amercement a piece of money into the Exchequer which is called White hart silver There joyneth neere to this forrest Shirburne towne named also Shirburne Castle in old time 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which by interpretation is Fons Limpidus or as it is else where writen Fons clarus that is Pure fountaine or cleare well scited on the hanging of an hill a pleasant and proper seate as William of Malmesburie saith as well for the frequent number of Inhabitants as the scituation and now it is the most populous and best haunted towne of all this country and gaineth exceeding much by clothing In the yeare of our redemption 704 an Episcopall seat was heere erected and Aldelme the first Bishop there consecrated afterwards also in the raigne of Etheldred Herman the Bishop of Sunning having obtained this Bishoprick translated his Episcopall see hither and joyned the said Bishoprick of Sunning unto this which under William Conqueror the same Bishop translated to Sarisburie and reserved Shirburne to bee a retiring place for his Successors unto whom it belongeth as yet And one of them namely Roger built a strong Castle in the East-part thereof under which lay sometime a wide meere and many fish pooles and now being filled up are converted into most pleasant and rich medow ground As for the Cathedrall Church presently upon the translation of the See it became a monasterie againe and beareth shew of great antiquitie although not many became a monasterie againe and beareth shew of great antiquitie although not many yeares past in a broile betweene the townesmen and the Monks it was fired which the burnt and scorched colour upon the stones doth as yet most evidently shew Under this the river Iuell whereof I will speake some where else winding in and out with many curving reaches runneth Westward to Chiston the seate sometime of the linage de Maulbauch from which it descended hereditarily unto the family of the Horsâ—ies Knights where it entreth into Sommersetshire More toward the East the most famous river Stoure passing full of tenches and Eeles especially arising in Wiltshire out of six fountaines commeth downe to Stourton the honor and seat of the Barons of Stourton So soone as it entred in this Shire it passeth through Gillingham forrest in which Edmund surnamed Iron-side in a memorable battell put the Danes to flight and three miles from thence saluteth Shaftsbury standing upon an hill top very defective of water sometimes called by the Britaines as it is commonly but falsely thought Caer Paladur and in Latine by later writers Septonia by the Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 perhaps of the Churches Spire steeple such as they tearmed Scheafts A little before the Normans time it had in it 104. houses and three Mint masters as we read in that booke so often by me alleadged And afterwards it flourished the more by reason of a Nunnerie
South gates Ophiuchus enwrapped with a serpent two mens heads with curled haire within the cope of the wall a hare running and annexed thereto upon a stone in letters standing overthwart VLIA ILIA A naked man laying hand as it were upon a souldier within the battlement also of the wall two lying along kissing and clipping one another a footeman with a sword brandishing and bearing out his shield a footeman with a speare and upon a stone with letters standing overthwart III. VSA. IS VXSC. And Medusaes head with haires all Snakes Along the said river of Avon which now is heere the bound between this shire and Glocestershire upon the banke Westward we have a sight of Cainsham so name of one Keina a most devout and holy British virgine who as the credulous age before-time perswaded many transformed serpents into stones because there be found there in Stone quarries such strange workes of nature when she is disposed to disport herselfe For I have seene a stone brought from hence resembling a serpent winding round in manner of a wreath the head whereof being somewhat unperfect bare up in the Circumference thereof and the end of the taile tooke up the centre within But most of these are headlesse In the fields neere adjoyning and other places beside is found Percepier an hearbe peculiar unto England Bitter it is in taste and hath a biting sharpenesse withall it never groweth above a span high and commeth up all the yeare long of it selfe small leavy flowers of a greenish hew it beares without any stalke at all Which herbe mightily and speedily provoketh urine and of it the distilled water serveth for great use as P. Paena in his Animadversions or Commentaries of Plants hath noted Scarce five miles from this place the river Avon passeth through the midst of Bristow in Welch-British Caer oder Nant Badon that is The Citie Oder in the Vale of Badon In the Catalogue of ancient Cities Caer Brito In Saxon 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is A bright or shining place But such as have called it Venta Belgarum have deceived both themselves and others This Citie standing partly in Somerset and partly in Glocester-shires is not to be reputed belonging either to this or that having Magistrates of the owne by it selfe and being of it selfe entire and a County incorporate Scituate it is somewhat high betweene Avon and the little river Frome sufficiently defended with rivers and fortifications together For environed it was sometime with a double wall So faire to behold by reason of buildings as well publike as private that it is fully correspondent to the name of Bright stow With common Sewes or Sinks they call them Goutes so made to run under the ground for the conveiance and washing away of all filth that for cleanlinesse and holesomnesse a man would not desire more whereupon there is no use heere of carts so well furnished with all things necessarie for a mans life so populous and well inhabited withall that next after London and Yorke it may of all Cities in England justly challenge the chiefe place For the mutuall entercourse of trafficke and the commodious haven which admitteth in ships under saile into the very bosome of the Citie hath drawne people of many countries thither For the Avon so often as the Moone declineth downeward from the meridian point and passeth by the opposite line unto it so swelleth with the tide from the Ocean that it raiseth up the ships there riding and lying in the oze 11. or 12. elles afloat in water And the Citizens themselves are rich Merchants and trafficke all over Europe yea and make Voyages at sea so farre as into the most remote parts of America But when and by whom it was built it is hard to say Old it seemeth not to be for as much as in all those spoiles and sackages that the Danes made there is no mention of it in our Historians And verily mine opinion is that it first grew up to some name when the English-Saxons Empire was much declining seeing that it is no where named before the yeare of our Lord 1063 when Harold as Florentinus of Worcester writeth embarqued himselfe and his armie and put to sea from Bristow to Wales In the first yeares of the Normans Berton a mannor adjoyning And Bristow paid unto the King as we find in the booke of Domesday 110. markes of silver and the Burgers said that Bishop G. hath 33. markes and one marke of Gold After this Robert Bishop of Constance that plotted seditious practises against King William Rufus chose it for the seate-towne of the whole warre fortified it being then but a small Citie with that inner wall as I take it which at this day is in part standing But a few yeares after the circuit thereof was every way enlarged For on the South Radcliffe wherein there stood some small houses under the Citie side is by a stone bridge with houses on each hand built upon it more like a streete than a bridge joyned to the Citie enclosed within a wall and the Inhabitants thereof enfranchised Citizens yea hospitals in every quarter thereof for the benefit of poore people and faire Parish-Churches to the glorie of God were erected The most beautifull of all which by farre is S. Maries of Radcliffe without the walles into which there is a stately ascent upon many staires so large withall so finely and curiously wrought with an arched roofe over head of stone artificially embowed a steeple also of an exceeding height that all the Parish-Churches in England which hetherto I have seene in my judgement it surpasseth many degrees In it William Cannings the founder hath two faire monuments upon the one lieth his image portraied in an Aldermans roabe For five times he had beene Major of this Citie upon the other his image likewise in sacerdotall habite for that in this old age hee tooke the orders of priesthood and was Deane of that colledge which himselfe instituted at Westburie There is hard by another Church also which they call the Temple the lanterne or tower whereof when the bell rings shaketh to and fro so as it hath cloven and divided it selfe from the rest of the building and made such a chinke from the bottome to the top as it gapeth the bredth of three fingers and both shutteth and openeth whensoever the bell is rung And heere I must not overpasse in silence S. Stephens Church the tower steeple whereof being of a mightie heighth one Shipward alias Barstable a Citizen and Merchant within the memorie of our grandfathers right sumptuously and artificially built From the East-side also the North augmented it was with a number of edifices enclosed within a wall and fenced with the river Frome which having runne by the wall side gently falleth into the Avon and yieldeth a dainty harbour for ships with a wharfe convenient for the shipping and unlading of Merchandise in and out they call it the Kay
sitten since Wina whom the said Kenelwalch ordained the first Bishop there Many Bishops some renowned for their wealth and honourable port and some for holinesse of life But among other Saint Swithin continueth yet of greatest fame not so much for his sanctitie as for the raine which usually falleth about the Feast of his translation in Iuly by reason the Sunne then Cosmically with Praesepe and Aselli noted by ancient writers to be rainie constellations and not for his weeping or other weeping Saints Margaret the Virgine and Mary Magdalen whose feasts are shortly after as some superstitiously-credulous have believed This by the way pardon me I pray you for I digresse licentiously Thus Bishops of Winchester have beene anciently by a certaine peculiar prerogative that they have Chancellours to the Archbishop of Canterbury and for long time now Prelates to the order of the Garter and they have from time to time to their great cost reedified the Church and by name Edington and Walkelin but Wickham especially who built all the West part thereof downe from the quire after a new kind of worke I assure you most sumptuously In the midst of which building is to be seene his owne tombe of decent modestie betweene two pillars And these Bishops have ever and anon consecrated it to new Patrons and Saints as to Saint Amphibalus Saint Peter Saint Swithin and last of all to the holy Trinitie by which name it is knowne at this day The English Saxons also had this Church in great honour for the sepulture of certaine Saints and Kings there whose bones Richard Fox the Bishop gathered and shrining them in certaine little gilded coffers placed them orderly with their severall Inscriptions in the top of that wall which encloseth the upper part of the quire and they called it in times past 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The old Minster for difference from another more lately built which was named 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The new Minster which Elfred founded and for the building of houses of office belonging to the same purchase of the Bishop a plot of ground and for every foot of it paid him downe a marke after the publike weight This monasterie as also that other the older was built for married Priests who afterwards upon I know not what miracle of a Crosse that spoke and disliked their marriage were thrust out by Dunstane Archbishop of Canterbury and Monkes put in their place The walls of these two monasteries stood so neere and close together that the voices of those that sung in the one troubled the chaunting of the other whereupon there arose grudge and heart-burning betweene these Monkes which afterwards brake out into open enmities By occasion whereof and because at this new monasterie there gathered and stood much water which from the Westerne gate came downe thither along the current of the streets and cast forth from it an unwholsome aire the Minster Church two hundred yeares after the first foundation of it was removed into the Suburbs of the citie on the North part which they call Hide Where by the permission of King Henry the First the Monks built a most stately and beautifull monasterie which a few yeares after by the craftie practice of Henrie de Blois Bishoppe of Winchester as the private historie of this place witnesseth was pitiously burnt In which fire that Crosse also was consumed which Canutus the Dane gave and upon which as old writings beare record he bestowed as much as his owne yeares revenewes of all England came unto The monasterie neverthelesse was raised up againe and grew by little and little to wonderfull greatnesse as the very ruines thereof even at this day doe shew untill that generall subversion and finall period of our monasteries For then was this monasterie demolished and into that other of the holy Trinitie which is the Cathedrall Church when the monkes were thrust out were brought in their stead a Deane twelve Prebendaries and there placed At the East side of this Cathedrall Church standeth the Bishops palace called Wolvesey a right goodly thing and sumptuous which being towred and compassed almost round with the streame of a prety river reacheth even to the Citie walls and in the South-suburbes just over against it beholdeth a faire Colledge which William Wickham Bishop of this See the greatest father and Patron of all Englishmen of good literature and whose praise for ever to the worlds end will continue built for a Schoole and thereto dedicated it out of which both for Church and Common-wealth there riseth a most plentiful increase of right learned men For in this Colledge one warden ten fellowes two Schoole-masters and threescore and ten schollers with divers others are plentifully maintained There have beene also in this Citie other faire and goodly buildings for very many were here consecrated to religion which I list not now to recount since time and avarice hath made an end of them Onely that Nunnery or monasterie of vailed Virgins which Elfwida the wife of King Elfred founded I will not overpasse seeing it was a most famous thing as the remainder of it now doth shew and for that out of it King Henrie the First tooke to wife Mawde the daughter of Malcolne King of Scots by whom the Royall bloud of the ancient Kings of England became united to the Normans and he therefore wonne much love of the English nation For neiphew shee was in the second degree of descent unto Edmund Iron-side by his sonne Edward the Banished A woman as adorned with all other vertues meet for a Queene so especially inflamed with an incredible love of true pietie and godlinesse Whereupon was this Tetrastich made in her commendation Prospera non laetam fecêre nec asperae tristem Aspera risus ei prospera terror erant Non decor effecit fragilem non sceptra superbam Sola potens humilis sola pudica decens No prosp'rous state did make her glad Nor adverse chances made her sad If fortune frown'd she then did smile If fortune frown'd she feard the while If beauty tempted she yet said nay No pride she tooke in scepters sway Shee onely high her selfe debas'd A lady onely faire and chast Concerning Sir Guy of Warwick of whom there goe so many prety tales who in single fight overcame here that Danish giant and Golias Colbrand and of Waltheof Earle of Huntingdon that was here beheaded where afterwards stood Saint Giles chappell as also of that excellent Hospital of Saint Crosse there adjoyning founded by Henry of Blois bother to King Stephen and Bishop of this City and augmented by Henry Beauford Cardinall I need not to speake seeing every man may read of them in the common Chronicles As touching the Earles of Winchester to say nothing of Clyto the Saxon whom the Normans deprived of his ancient honour King Iohn created Saier Quincy Earle of Winchester who used for his armes a military belt
prophane wretches hemmed him round about and getteth together divers and sundry weapons to kill him Which when their leader Thurkill saw a farre off he came quickly running and crying Doe not so in any wise I beseech you and heere with my whole heart I deliver unto you all my gold and silver and whatsoever I have heere or can by any meanes come by save my ship onely that yee would not sinne against the Lords annointed But this unbridled anger of his mates harder than yron and flint was nothing mollified with so gentle words and faire language of his but became pacified by shedding his innocent bloud which presently they altogether confounded and bleanded with Ox-heads stones as thicke as haile and billets hurled at him And to the memorie of this Saint Ealpheg is the Parish Church heere consecrated But now is the place of very great name by reason of the Kings house which Humfrey Duke of Glocester built and named Placence which also King Henrie the Seventh most sumptuously enlarged who adjoyned thereto a little house of observant Friers and finished that towre famous in Spanish fables which the said Duke of Glocester begun on an high hill from whence there is a most faire and pleasant prospect open to the river winding in and out and almost redoubling it selfe the greene meddowes and marshes underlying the Citie of London and the Countrie round about Which being now enlarged and beautified by the L. Henrie Howard Earle of Northampton Lord Privie Seale c. cannot but acknowledge him a well deserving benefactor But the greatest ornament by far that graced this Green-wich was our late Queene Elizabeth who heere most happily borne to see the light by the resplendent brightnesse of her royall vertue enlightned all England But as touching Green-wich have heere these verses of Leland the Antiquarian Poet Ecce ut jam niteat locus petitus Tanquam syderea domus cathedrae Quae fastigia picta quae fenestrae Quae turres vel ad astra se efferentes Quae porro viridaria ac perennes Fontes Flora sinum occupat venusta Fundens delicias nitentis horti Rerum commodus aestimator ille Râ—pae qui variis modis amoenae Nomen contulit eleganter aptum How glittereth now this place of great request Like to the seate of heavenly welkin hie With gallant tops with windowes of the best What towres that reach even to the starry skie What Orchards greene what springs ay-running by Faire Flora heere that in this creeke doth dwell Bestowes on it the flowers of garden gay To judge no doubt of things he knew full well Who gave this banke thus pleasant every way So fit a name as did the thing bewray Nothing else have I here to note but that for I would not have the remembrance of well deserving benefactors to miscarry William Lambard a godly good Gentleman built an Almeshouse here for the sustentation of poore persons which hee named The Colledge of Queene Elizabeths poore people and as the prying adversaries of our religion then observed was the first Protestant that built an Hospitall At the backe of this as ye turne out scarce three miles off standeth Eltham a retyring place likewise of the Kings but unholsomly by reason of the moate Anthony Becke Bishop of Durham and Patriarch of Ierusalem built this in a manner new and gave unto Queene Eleanor wife to King Edward the First after hee had craftily conveyed unto himselfe the inheritance of the Vescyes unto whom this place before belonged For that Bishop whom the last Baron of Vescy had made his foefie for trust of all his inheritance to the use of William Vescy his little base sonne dealt not so faithfully as he should with this orphane and ward of his but dispoiled him of Alnwick Castle this and other faire lands Beneath Greenwich the Thames having broken downe his bankes hath by his irruption surrounded and overwhelmed many acres of land For the inning whereof divers have as it were strugled with the waters now many yeares and yet with great workes and charges cannot overmaster the violence of the tides which the Chanons of Liesnes adjoyning kept sound and sweete land in their times This Abbey was founded 1179. by Lord Richard Lucie chiefe Iustice of England and by him dedicated to God and the memorie of Thomas of Canterburie whom hee so admired for his piety while other condemned him for pervicacie against his Prince as hee became here a devoted Chanon to him Heere in the marshes groweth plentifully the hearbe Cochlearia called by our Countrey men Scurvy-grasse which some Phisicians would have to be the same which Plinie calleth Britannica by which name I have already made mention thereof but heare what Plinie saith In Germany when as Germanicus Caesar had removed his campe forward beyond Rhene in the maritime tract there was one fountaine and no more of fresh water whereof if a man dranke within two yeares his teeth would fall out of his head and the joynts in his knees become loose and feeble Those diseases the Phisicians tearmed Stomacace and Sceletyrbe For remedie hereof there was found an hearbe called Brittannica holesome not onely for the sinewes and maladies of the mouth but also against the Squincie and stinging of serpents c. They of Frisia what way our campe lay shewed it unto our souldiours And I marvaile what should bee the cause of that name unlesse peradventure they that confine upon the Ocean dedicated the name thereof to Britaine as lying so nere vnto it But that most learned Hadrian Iunius in his booke named Nomenclator bringeth another reason of the name whom you may have recourse unto if you please For this word Britannica hath here diverted me a side from my course From thence the Thames being contained within his bankes meeteth with the river Darent which falling downe out of Suthrey runneth with a soft streame not farre from Seven-oke so called as men say of seven exceeding great Okes now cut downe which commendeth Sir William Sevenok an Alderman of London who being a foundling and brought up here and therefore so named built heere in gratefull remembrance an Hospitall and a schoole On the East side of it standeth Knoll so called for that it is seated upon a hill which Thomas Bourchier Archbishop of Canterbury purchasing of Sir William Fienes Lord Say and Seale adorned with a faire house and now lately Thomas Earle of Dorset Lord Treasurer hath fourbished and beautified the old worke with new chargeable additaments Darent then passeth by 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 now Otford a place famous in former ages for an overthrow and slaughter of the Danes which happened there in the yeare 1016. and lately by reason of the Kings house which William Warham Archbishop of Canterbury built for himselfe and his successours so sumptuously that for to avoid envie Cranmer who next succeeded him was constreined to exchange
seeing that it answereth backe againe with the encrease of an hundred fold that which is sowne Here may you see the high wayes and common lanes clad with apple-trees and peare-trees not set nor graffed by the industry of mans hand but growing naturally of their owne accord The ground of it selfe is enclined to beare fruits and those both in taste and beautie farre exceeding others whereof some will last a whole yeare and not wither and rivell so that they are serviceable untill new come againe for supply There is no countrey in all England so thicke set as this Province with Vine-yards so plentifull in encrease and so pleasant in taste The very wines thereof made affect not their mouthes that drinke of them with any unpleasing tartnesse as being little inferiour in sweetnesse and odour to the French wines The houses in it are almost innumerable the Churches passing faire and the townes standing very thicke But that which addeth unto all these good gifts a speciall glory is the river Severne than which there is not any one in this land for channell broader for streame swifter for fish better stored There is in it a daily rage and fury of the waters which I know not whether I may call a gulfe or whirle poole of waves and the same raising up the sands from the bothome winding and driving the same upon heapes commeth with a forcible violence and reacheth no further then to the bridge Sometimes also it overfloweth the bankes and when it hath roved about a great way it retireth backe as a conquerour of the land Vnhappy is that vessell which it taketh full upon the side The Water-men well ware hereof when they see that Higra comming for so they call it in English turne the vessell affront upon it and so cutting through the middest of it checke and avoide the violence thereof But that which hee saith of the hundred fold increase and yeeld of the ground doth not hold true Neither for all that would I thinke with these whining and sloathfull husbandmen whom Columella taketh up for it that the soile is now wearied and become barren with too much fruitfulnesse and over-free bearing in former ages Howbeit hereby if I should say nothing of other things it is to bee seene that wee have no cause to wonder why many places in this countrey and else-where in England are called Vine-yards seeing it hath affoorded wine and surely it may seeme to proceed rather of the Inhabitants idlenesse than any distemperature and indisposition of the ayre that it yeeldeth none at this day But why in some places within this Countrey as wee reade in our Statutes by a private custome which now is become of strong validitie as a law the goods and lands of condemned persons fall into the Kings hands for a yeare onely and a day and after that terme expired contrary to the custome of all England beside returne to the next heires let law-students and Statesmen looke to that for no part it is of my purpose to search thereinto Now I will take a superfiall survey such as I can of those three parts whereof I spake orderly one after another The part that lyeth more West beyond Severne which the Silures in old time possessed along the river Vaga or Wye that parteth England and Wales was wholy bespred with thicke tall woods we call it at this day Deane-forrest The Latine writers some name it of the Danes Danica Sylva the Danes wood others with Girald the Wood of Danubia But I would thinke if it had not this name of Dean a little towne adjoyning that by short cutting the word it was called Deane for Arden Which terme both Gauls and Britans in ancient times may seeme to have used for a wood considering that two mighty great woods the one in that part of Gaule called Gallia Belgica and the other among us in Warwick-shire are by one and the selfe same name termed Arden For this was a wonderfull thicke Forrest and in former ages so darke and terrible by reason of crooked and winding wayes as also the grisly shade therein that it made the inhabitants more fierce and bolder to commit robberies For in the reigne of Henry the sixt they so infested all Severne side with robbing and spoiling that there were lawes made by authority of the Parliament for to restraine them But since that rich Mines of Iron were heere found out those thicke woods began to wax thin by little and little In this Forrest upon the foresaid river stood Tudenham and Wollaston two townes of good antiquity which Walter and Roger the brethren of Gislebert Lord of Clare wrested out of the Welch-mens hands about the yeare 1160. As also Lidney is adjoyning to them where Sir William Winter Viceadmirall of England a renowned Knight for Sea-services as his brother Arthur slaine in Orkeney-Isles built a faire house But the most ancient towne of all others is ABONE or AVONE mentioned by Antonine the Emperour in his Iourney-booke which having not lost that name altogether is at this day called Aventon a small towne indeed but standing upon Severne just nine miles as hee writeth from VENTASILVRVM or Caer-went And seeing that Avon in the Brittish tongue importeth A River it shall be no strange thing if we thinke it so called of the river for in the very same signification that I may omit the rest we have Waterton Bourne and Riverton as the Latines had Aquinum and Fluentium And I suppose the rather that it tooke name of the river because people were wont at this place to ferry over the river whereupon the towne standing over against it is by Antonine called TRAIECTVS that is a passage or ferry but without doubt the number in that place set downe is corrupted For he maketh it nine miles betweene TRAIECTVS and ABONE whereas the river is scarce three miles broad It may seeme then to have beene utterly decaied or turned rather into a village either when as passengers began to ferry over below or when Athelstane thrust out the Welsh Britans from hence For hee was the first that drave them as William of Malmesbury witnesseth beyond the river Wye And where as before his time Severne was the bound betweene the English and Welshmen hee appointed Wye to be the limit confining them both Whence our Necham writeth thus Inde vagos vaga Cambrenses hinc respicit Anglos To Wales on this side looketh Wie On that againe our England he doth eye Not farre from Wye amongst blind by-wayes beset with thicke plumps of trees appeareth Breulis Castle more than halfe fallen downe remarkable for the death of Mahel youngest sonne of Miles Earle of Hereford For there his greedy devises bloody crueltie and covetousnesse ready to pray upon other mens estates for which vices hee is much blamed in Writers were overtaken with a just revenge from heaven For as Girald hath written being entertained guest-wise by
Chamberlaine to King Richard the Third attainted by King Henry the Seventh and slaine in the battaile at Stoke in the quarrell of Lambert that Counterfeit Prince whose sister Fridiswid was Grandmother to Henry the first Lord Norris Hence Windrush hodling on his course watereth Whitney an ancient Towne and before the Normans daies belonging to the Bishops of Winchester to which adjoyneth Coges the chiefe place of the Barony of Arsic the Lords whereof branched out of the family of the Earles of Oxford are utterly extinguished many yeeres agoe Neere unto this the Forest of Witchwood beareth a great breadth and in time past spread farre wider For King Richard the Third disforested the great Territory of Witchwood betweene Woodstocke and Brightstow which Edward the Fourth made to be a Forest as Iohn Rosse of Warwicke witnesseth Isis having received Windrush passeth downe to Einsham in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 a Manour in times past of the Kings seated among most pleasant medowes which Cuthwulfe the Saxon was the first that tooke from the Britans whom he had hereabout vanquished and long after Aethelmar a Nobleman beautified it with an Abbay the which Aethelred King of England in the yeere of Salvation 1005. confirmed to the Benedictine Monkes and in his confirmation signed the priviledge of the liberty thereof I speake out of the very originall grant as it was written with the signe of the sacred Crosse but now is turned into a private dwelling house and acknowledgeth the Earle of Derby Lord thereof Beneath this Evenlode a little river arising likewise out of Cotteswald speedeth him into Isis which riveret in the very border of the Shire passeth by an ancient Monument standing not farre from his banke to wit certaine huge stones placed in a round circle the common people usually call them Rolle-rich-stones and dreameth that they were sometimes men by a wonderfull Metamorphosis turned into hard stones The draught of them such as it is portrayed long since heere I represent unto your view For without all forme and shape they bee unequall and by long continuance of time much impaired The highest of them all which without the circle looketh into the earth they use to call The King because hee should have beene King of England forsooth if hee had once seene Long Compton a little Towne so called lying beneath and which a man if he goe some few paces forward may see other five standing at the other side touching as it were one another they imagine to have been knights mounted on horse backe and the rest the Army But loe the foresaid Portraiture These would I verily thinke to have beene the Monument of some Victory and haply erected by Rollo the Dane who afterwards conquered Normandie For what time as he with his Danes and Normans troubled England with depredations we read that the Danes joined battaile with the English thereby at Hoche Norton and afterwards fought a second time at Scier stane in Huiccia which also I would deeme to be that Mere-stone standing hard by for a land Marke and parting foure shires For so much doth that Saxon word Scier-stane most plainly import Certainly in an Exchequer booke the Towne adjacent is called Rollen-drich where as it is there specified Turstan le Dispenser held land by Serjeanty of the Kings Dispensary that is to be the Kings Steward As for that Hoch-Norton which I spake of before for the rusticall behaviour of the Inhabitants in the age afore going it grew to be a proverbe when folke would say of one rudely demeaning himselfe and unmaneâ—ly after an Hoggish kinde that hee was borne at Hocknorton This place for no one thing was more famous in old time than for the woefull slaughter of the Englishmen in a foughten field against the Danes under the Raigne of King Edward the Elder Afterwards it became the seat of the Barony of the D' Oilies an honourable and ancient Family of the Norman race of whom the first that came into England was Robert de Oily who for his good and valiant service received of William Conquerour this Towne and many faire possessions whereof hee gave certaine to his sworne brother Roger Ivery which were called the Barony of Saint Valeric But when the said Robert departed this life without issue male his brother Niele succeeded him therein whose sonne Robert the second was founder of Osney Abbay But at length the daughter and heire generall of this house D' Oily was married to Henry Earle of Warwicke and she bare unto him Thomas Earle of Warwicke who dyed without issue in the Raigne of Henry the Third and Margaret who deceased likewise without children abeit shee had two husbands John Marescall and John de Plessetis both of them Earles of Warwicke But then that I may speake in the very words of the Charter of the Grant King Henry the Third granted Hoch-norton and Cudlington unto John de Plessetis which were in times past the possessions of Henry D'Oily and which after the decease of Margaret wife sometime to the foresaid John Earle of Warwicke fell into the kings hand as an Escheat of Normans lands To have and to hold untill the lands of England and Normandy were common Howbeit out of this ancient and famous stocke there remaineth at this day a family of D' Oilies in this shire Evenlode passeth by no memorable thing else but La Bruer now Bruern sometime an Abbay of white Monks and after he hath runne a good long course taketh to him a Brooke neere unto which standeth Woodstocke in the English Saxon language 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is A woody place where King Etheldred in times past held an assembly of the States of the Kingdome and enacted Lawes Heere is one of the Kings houses full of State and magnificence built by King Henry the First who adjoyned also thereunto a very large Parke compassed round about with a stone wall which John Rosse writeth to have beene the first Parke in England although we read once or twise even in Doomesday Booke these words Parcus silvestris bestiarum in other places In which sense old Varro useth the word Parcus which some thinke to be but a new word But since that Parkes are growne to such a number that there bee more of them in England than are to be found in all Christendome beside so much were our Ancestours ravished with an extraordinary delight of hunting Our Historians report that King Henry the Second being enamoured upon Rosamund Clifford a Damosell so faire so comely and well favoured without comparison that her beauty did put all other women out of the Princes minde in so much as now shee was termed Rosa mundi that is The Rose of the World and for to hide her out of the sight of his jealous Juno the Queene he built a Labyrinth in this house with many inexplicable windings backward and forward Which notwithstanding is no where to be seene at this day The Towne
in the Hole so named of the miry way in Winter time very troublesome to Travellers For the old Englishmen our Progenitors called deepe myre hock and hocks So passing along fields smelling sweet in Sommer of the best Beanes which with their redolent savour doe dull the quicke sent of Hounds and Spaniels not without fuming and chaâ—ing of Hunters we mounted up by a whitish chalkey hill into the Chiltern and streightwaies were at Dunstable This Towne seated in a chalkey ground well inhabited and full of Innes hath foure Streetes answering to the foure quarters of the world in every one of which notwithstanding the Soile bee most dry by nature there is a large Pond of standing water for the publique use of the Inhabitants And albeit they bee fed onely by raine water yet they never faile nor become dry As for spring-veines there are none to bee found unlesse they sinke Wells or pits foure and twenty Cubits deepe In the middest of the Towne is a Crosse or Columne rather to be seene with the Armes of England Castle and Ponthieu engraven thereon adorned also with Statues and Images which King Edward the First erected as he did some others in memoriall of Aeleoner his Wife all the way as hee conveyed her Corps out of Lincoln-shire with funerall pompe to Westminster That this Dunstable was the very same Station which the Emperour Antonine in his Itinerary calleth MAGIONINIUM MAGIOVINIUM and MAGINTUM no man needs to make doubt or to seeke it else where For besides that it is situate upon the Romanes high way there are peeces of the Roman Emperours moneies found otherwhiles in the fields adjoyning round about by the Swine-heards which as yet they terme Madning mony and within a little of the very descent of the Chiltern hils there is a military modell raised up round with a Rampire and Ditch such as Strabo writeth the Britans Townes were containing nine Acres of ground which the people use to call Madning-boure and Madin-boure in which very name with a little change MAGINTUM most plainly sheweth it selfe But when the said MAGINTUM by the injury of warre or time was decayed king Henry the First heere reedified a Towne built a royall house at Kings-bury and planted a Colony to represse the boldnesse of Theeves that heere beset the wayes and lay in wait as the private History of the Priory that himselfe founded for the ornament of this his Colony doth evidently beare witnesse But heare the very words out of that private History although they savour of the Barbarisme of that age Note that the plot of ground where the two high waies Watling and Ikening meet was first by Henry the elder King of England cleered to keepe under and bridle the wickednesse of a certaine most notorious Theefe named Dun and his Companions and of that Dun the said place was named Dunstable The King our Lord built there the Burgh of Dunstable and made for himselfe a royall Manour or house neere under that place The King had in the same Towne both Faire and Mercat Afterwards hee founded a Church and by authority of Pope Eugenius the Third placed therein Regular Chanons and feoffed the said Religious Chanons in the whole Burgh by his Charter and bestowed upon them very many liberties As for Leighton Buzard on the one side of Dunstable and Luton on the other neither have I reade nor seene any thing memorable in them unlesse I should say that at Luton I saw a faire Church but the Quier then Roofelesse and overgrowne with Weedes and adjoyning to it an elegant Chappell founded by I. Lord Wenlocke and well maintained by the Family of Rotheram planted heere by Thomas Rotheram Archbishop of Yorke and Chancellour of England in the time of King Edward the Fourth As touching the Lords Dukes and Earles of Bedford First there were Barons of Bedford out of the Family of Beauchamp who by right of inheritance were Almners to the Kings of England upon their Coronation day Whose inheritance being by females parted among the Mowbraies Wakes Fitz-Ottes c. King Edward the Third created Engelrame de Coucy Earle of Suesons in France sonne to Engelrame Lord of Coucy and his Wife daughter to the Duke of Austria the first Earle of Bedford giving unto him his daughter in marriage Afterwards King Henrie the Fifth advaunced Bedford to the title of a Dukedome and it had three Dukes the first was John the third sonne of King Henrie the Fourth who most valiantly vanquished the French men in a Sea-fight at the mouth of Seyne and afterwards being Regent of France slaine in a battaile on land before Vernoil who was buried in Roan and together with him all the Englishmens good fortune in France At which time he was Regent of France Duke of Bedford Alaunson and Anjou Earle of Maine Richmond and Kendall and Constable of England For so was his stile Whose Monument when Charles the Eighth King of France came to see and a Noble man standing by advised him to rase it Nay answered he let him rest in peace now being dead of whom in war while he lived all France had dread The second Duke of Bedford was George Nevill a very child sonne to John Marquesse Mont-acute both whom King Edward the Fourth so soone as hee had raised them to that type of Honours threw downe againe and that by authoritie of the Parliament the Father for his perfidious disloyaltie in revolting from him the Sonne in dislike of his Father Howbeit there was a colourable pretense made that his estate was too weake for to maintaine the port and dignity of a Duke and because great men of high place if they be not wealthy withall are alwaies grievous and injurious The third was Iasper of Hatfield Earle of Pembroch Honoured with that title by his Nephew King Henrie the Seventh for that hee was both his Unckle and had delivered him out of extreame dangers who being aged and a Bachelar departed this life some ten yeeres after his Creation But within the remembrance of our Fathers it fell backe againe to the title of an Earledome what time as King Edward the Sixth created Iohn Lord Russell Earle of Bedford after whom succeeded his Sonne Francis a man so religious and of such a noble courteous nature that I can never speake ought so highly in his commendation but his vertue will far surpasse the same He left to succeed him Edward his Nephew by his Sonne Sir Francis Russell who was slaine a day or two before his Father departed this life by Scotishmen in a tumult upon a True-day in the midle marches 1585. This small Province hath Parishes 116. HERTFORDIAE Comitatus A. Cattifuclanis olim Inhabitatus HERTFORD-SHIRE HERTFORD-SHIRE which I said was the third of those that belonged to the Cattieuchlani lieth on the East and partly on the South side of Bedford-shire The West side is enclosed with Bedford-shire and Buckingham-shire The South with Middlesex
the East with Essex and the North with Cambridge-shire A rich country in corne fields pastures medows woods groves and cleere riverets And for ancient townes it may contend with the neighbours even for the best For there is scarsely another shire in all England that can shew more places of Antiquities in so small a compasse In the very limit thereof Northward where it boundeth upon Cambridge-shire standeth Roiston a towne well knowne but of no antiquity as being risen since the Normans daies For one Dame Roise a woman in that age of right great name whom some thinke to have been Countesse of Norfolke erected there about a Crosse in the high way which was thought in that age a pious worke to put passengers in minde of Christs passion whereupon this place was for many yeeres called Roises-Crosse untill that Eustach de Marc adjoined thereto a little Monastery in the honour of Thomas of Canterbury for then were Innes built and by little and little it grew to be a towne which in stead of Roises Crosse was called Roiston that is Roises towne unto which King Richard the First granted a Faire at certaine set times and a mercat Now it is very famous and passing much frequented for Malt For it is almost incredible how many buyers and sellers of corne how many Badgers yea and Corne-mongers or Regraters flocke hither weekely every mercat day and what a number of horses loden doe then fill the high waies on every side Over Roiston Southward is mounted Tharfield among the high hils an ancient habitation of the familie of Berners descended from Hugh de Berners unto whom in recompence of his valiant service in the Normans Conquest King William the Conquerour granted faire lands in Eversdon within the county of Cambridge And in so great worship and reputation flourished his posterity that Sir John Bourchier who married the right heire at common law of that familie being promoted by King Edward the Fourth to the honour of Baron tooke his addition thereof and was stiled Baron Bourchier of Berners and usually Lord Berners Upon this confineth Nucelles belonging in times past to the house of the Rochesters or Roffes but all the repute and glory that it hath arose from the inhabitants thereof afterwards namely the Barons of Scales descended out of Norfolke but yet the heires of Roffe For King Edward the First gave unto Sir Robert de Scales in regard of his valourous service in the Scotish warres certaine lands to the value in those daies of three hundred markes by the yeare and called him among the Barons to the Parliament Their Eschocheon Gules with sixe escallops argent is seene in many places They flourished unto King Edward the Fourth his daies at what time the only daughter and heire of this family was wedded vnto Sir Anthonie Widevile Earle Rivers whom being advanced by his owne glorious prowesse and the kings marriage with his sister the malicious hatred and envie of his enemies most vilanouslie overwrought and brought to utter destruction For King Richard the Third beheaded him innocent man as he was And when as she died without issue the inheritance was parted in King Henry the Sevenths time betweene Iohn Earle of Oxford who by the Howards and Sir William Tindale knight who by the Bigods of Felbridge were found next cousens and coheires The Manour of Barkway hereby appertained also to those Lords Scales a well knowne throughfare Beyond which is Barley that imparted surname to the ancient and well allied family of the Barleies and on this side Anestie which was not long since the inheritance of the house of Yorke and in elder times the Castle there was a nest of rebels wherefore Nicholas of Anesty Lord thereof was expresly commanded by King Henry the Third to demolish so much of it as was raised since the Barons warres against his Father King John But now time hath wholy rased it all To returne though disorderly East-ward is Ashwell as one would say The well or fountaine among the Ashes a Country towne of good bignesse and full of houses situate on a low ground in the very North edge of the shire where there is a source of springs bubling out of a stony banke overshadowed on every side with tall ashes from whence there floweth at certaine veines continually running such store of water that forthwith being gathered within banks it carrieth a streame able to drive a Mill and all of a sudden as it were groweth to a good big river Of these wels and ashes together as most certaine it is that the English-Saxons imposed this new name Ashwell so I have been sometime of this opinion that the ancient Britans who as Gildas witnesseth heaped divine honours upon hils rivers fountaines and groves from the very same thing and in the same sense called it Magiovinium and that it was the same which Antonine named MAGIONINIVM But time hath now discovered a more certaine truth neither am I ashamed to change mine opinion in this point seeing I take no pleasure at all in mine owne error And yet to prove the ancientnesse of this towne the large quadrant adjoyning enclosed with a trench and rampire maketh much which by the Romane peeces of coyne digged up there oftentimes sheweth whose worke it was and in that booke wherein above 500. yeeres since King William the Conquerour tooke the review and account of all the townes in England it is in plaine words tearmed a Burgh Southward we saw Merkat-Baldock situate upon a whitish soile wherein as also in Hitching hard by we read of no antiquity Then is there seated in a well-husbanded and good ground Wimondley an ancient and famous Lordship held by the most honourable tenure with us which our Lawyers terme Grand-Sergeanty namely that the Lord thereof should serve unto the Kings of England upon their Coronation day the first cup and be as it were the Kings Cup-bearer Which honorable office in regard of this Lordship certaine Noble Gentlemen called Fitz-Tek held in the beginning of the Normans reigne from whom by a daughter it came unto the Argentons These fetched their name and pedegree from David de Argenton a Norman and a martiall knight who under King William the Conquerour served in the wars and they in remembrance heereof gave for their armes Three Cups Argent in a shield Gueules But at last for want of issue male in King Henry the Sixth his daies Elizabeth Argenton the sole and entier inheritrice brought it unto her husband Sir William Allington knight with faire lands thereby and this dignity from whom Sir Giles Allington now the heire of this family is the seventh a young Gentleman right courteous and of a generous nature who I hope will give some new lustre by his vertues unto the ancient worship of his house Hard by and neere unto the roade high-way betweene Stevenhaugh and Knebworth the seat of the worshipfull house of the
Lancaster second son of K. Henry the third and his wife Aveline de fortibus Countesse of Albemarle William and Audomar of Valence of the family of Lusignian Earles of Pembroch Alphonsus Iohn and other children of King Edward the First Iohn of Eltham Earle of Cornwall son to K. Edward the second Thomas of Woodstocke Duke of Glocester the yongest son of K. Edward the third with other of his children Aeleanor daughter and heire of Humfrey Bohun Earle of Hereford and of Essex wife to Thomas of Woodstocke the yong daughter of Edward the fourth and K. Henry the seventh Henry a childe two months old son of K. Henry the eight Sophia the daughter of K. Iames who died as it were in the very first day-dawning of her age Phillippa Mohun Dutches of Yorke Lewis Vicount Robsert of Henault in right of his wife Lord Bourchier Anne the yong daughter and heire of Iohn Mowbray Duke of Norfolke promised in marriage unto Richard Duke of Yorke yonger son to K. Edward the fourth Sir Giles Daubency Lord Chamberlaine to king Henry the Seventh and his wife of the house of the Arundels in Cornwall I. Vicount Wells Francis Brandon Dutches of Suffolke Mary her daughter Margaret Douglasse Countesse of Lennox grandmother to Iames King of Britaine with Charles her son Winifrid Bruges Marchionesse of Winchester Anne Stanhop Dutches of Somerset and Iane her daughter Anne Cecill Countesse of Oxford daughter to the L. Burghley Lord high Treasurer of England with Mildred Burghley her mother Elizabeth Berkeley Countesse of Ormund Francis Sidney Countesse of Sussex Iames Butler Vicount Thurles son and heire to the Earle of Ormond Besides these Humfrey Lord Bourchier of Cromwall Sir Humfrey Bourchier son and heire to the Lord Bourchier of Berners both slaine at Bernet field Sir Nicholas Carew Baron Carew Baronesse Powisse T. Lord Wentworth Thomas Lord Wharton Iohn Lord Russell Sir T. Bromley Lord Chancellour of England Douglas Howard daughter and heire generall of H. Vicount Howard of Bindon wife to Sir Arthur Gorges Elizabeth daughter and heire of Edward Earle of Rutland wife to William Cecill Sir Iohn Puckering Lord Keeper of the great Seale of England Francis Howard Countesse of Hertford Henrie and George Cary the father and sonne Barons of Hunsdon both Lords Chamberlaines to Queene Elizabeth the heart of Anne Sophia the tender daughter of Christopher Harley Count Beaumont Embassadour from the king of France in England bestowed within a small guilt Urne over a Pyramid Sir Charles Blunt Earle of Devonshire Lord Lieutenant Generall of Ireland And whom in no wise wee must forget the Prince of English Poets Geoffry Chauer as also he that for pregnant wit and an excellent gift in Poetry of all English Poets came neerest unto him Edmund Spencer Beside many others of the Clergy and Gentlemen of quality There was also another College or Free-chapell hard by consisting of a Deane and twelve Chanons dedicated to Saint Stephen which King Edward the Third in his princely Magnificence repaired with curious workmanship and endowed with faire possessions so as he may seeme to have built it new what time as he had with his victories overrun and subdued al France recalling to minde as we read the Charter of the foundation and pondering in a due weight of devout consideration the exceeding benefits of Christ whereby of his owne sweet mercy and pity he preventeth us in all occasions delivering us although without all desert from sundry perils and defending us gloriously with his powerfull right hand against the violent assaults of our adversaries with victorious successes and in other tribulations and perplexities wherein wee have exceeding much beene encombred by comforting us and by applying and in-powering remedies upon us beyond all hope and expectation There was adjoyning hereto a Palace the ancient habitation of the Kings of England from the time of King Edward the Confessor which in the Raigne of king Henry the Eighth was burnt by casuall fire to the ground A very large stately and sumptuous Palace this was and in that age for building incomparable with a vawmurâ— and bulwarks for defence The remaines whereof are the Chamber wherein the King the Nobles with the Counsellers and Officers of State doe assemble at the high Court of Parliament and the next unto it wherein anciently they were wont to beginne the Parliaments knowne by the name of Saint Edwards painted chamber because the tradition holdeth that the said king Edward therein dyed But how sinfull an Act how bloudy how foule how hainous horrible hideous and odious both to God and man certaine brute and savage beasts in mens shape enterprised of late by the device of that Arch Traitour Robert Catesby with undermining and placing a mighty deale of gunpowder under these Edifices against their Prince their Country and all the States of the Kingdome and that under an abominable pretence of Religion my very heart quaketh to remember and mention nay amazed it is and astonied but to thinke onely into what inevitable darknesse confusion and wofull miseries they had suddenly in the twinckling of an eye plunged this most flourishing Realme and Common wealth But that which an ancient Poet in a smaller matter wrote we may in this with griefe of minde utter Excidat illa dies aevo nè postera credant Secula nos certè taceamus obruta multa Nocte tegi propriae patiamur crimina gentis That cursed day forgotten be no future age beleeve That this was true let us also at least wise now that live Conceale the same and suffer such Designes of our owne Nation Hidden to be and buried quite in darknesse of oblivion Adjoyning unto this is the Whitehall wherein at this day the Court of Requests is kept Beneath this is that Hall which of all other is the greatest and the very Praetorium or Hall of Justice for all England In this are the Judiciall Courts namely The Kings Bench the Common Pleas and The Chancery And in places neere thereabout The Star-Chamber the Exchequer Court of Ward and Court of the Dâ—teby of Lancaster c. In which at certaine set times wee call them Tearmes yearely causes are heard and tryed whereas before king Henry the Third his dayes the Court of common Law and principall Justice was unsetled and alwaies followed the kings Court But he in the Magna Charta made a law in these words Let not the Common Pleas folâ—ow our Court but bee holden in some certaine place Which notwithstanding some expound thus That the Common Pleas from thenceforth bee handled in a Court of the owne by it selfe a part and not in the Kings Bench as before This Judgement Hall which we now have king Richard the Second built out of the ground as appeareth by his Armes engraven in the stone-worke and many arched beames when he had plucked downe the former old Hall that king William Rufus in the same place had built before and made it his
he fetcheth almost a round compasse with a great winding reach taketh into him the River Lea at the east bound of this Countie when it hath collected his divided streame and cherished fruitfull Marish-medowes Upon which there standeth nothing in this side worth the speaking of For neither Aedelmton hath ought to shew but the name derived of Nobility nor Waltham unlesse it be the Crosse erected there for the funerall pompe of Queene Aeleonor Wife to King Edward the First whereof also it tooke name Onely Enfeld a house of the Kings is here to be seene built by Sir Thomas Lovel knight of the order of the Garter and one of King Henry the Seventh his Privy Counsell and Durance neighbour thereunto a house of the Wrothes of ancient name in this Countie To Enfeld-house Enfeld-chace is hard adjoyning a place much renowned for hunting the possession in times past of the Magnavils Earles of Essex afterwards of the Bohuns who succeeded them and now it belongeth to the Duchie of Lancaster since the time that Henry the Fourth King of England espoused one of the daughters and coheires of Humfrey Bohun Earle of Hereford and Essex of that surname And there are yet to be seene in the middest well nere of this Chase the rubbish and ruines of an old house which the vulgar sort saith was the dwelling place of the Magnavils Earles of Essex As for the title of Midlesex the Kings of England have vouchsafed it to none neither Duke Marquis Earle or Baron In this County without the City of London are reckoned Parishes much about 73. Within the City Liberties and Suburbes 121. ESSEXIA COMITATVS QVEM olim TRINOBANTES tenuerunt Continens in se opida marcatoria xx Pagos et Villas ccccxiiii vna Cunt singulis hundredis et flu minibus in â—odem ESSEX THE other part of the Trinobantes toward the East called in the English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 in the Norman language Exssesa of the situation toward the East and the Saxons which inhabited it and commonly Essex is a Country large in compasse fruitfull full of Woods plentifull of Saffron and very wealthy encircled as it were on the one side with the maine Sea on the other with fishfull Rivers which also doe affoord their peculiar commodities in great abundance On the North side the River Stour divideth it from Suffolke on the East the Ocean windeth it selfe into it On the South part the Tamis being now growne great secludeth it from Kent like as in the West part the little River Ley from Midlesex and Stort or Stour the lesse which runneth into it from Hertfordshire In describing of this Country according to my methode begunne first I will speake of the memorable places by Ley and the Tamis afterwards of those that bee further within and upon the Sea-coast By Ley in the English Saxon Tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 there stretcheth out a great way in length and breadth a Forest serving for game stored very full with Deere that for their bignesse and fatnesse withall have the name above all other In times past called it was by way of excellency Foresta de Essex now Waltham Forest of the towne Waltham in the Saxons speech 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 A wilde or wooddy habitation This standeth upon Ley where by dividing his Chanell hee maketh divers Eights or Islands and is not of any great Antiquity to make boast of For when the Kingdome of the Saxons beganne to decay one Tovie a man of great wealth and authority as wee reade in the private History of the place The Kings Staller that is Standerd bearer for the abundance of wilde beasts there first founded it and planted threescore and sixe indwellers therein After his death Athelstane his sonne quickly made a hand of all his goods and great estate and King Edward the Confessour gave this Towne to Harold Earle Goodwins sonne and streight wayes an Abbay was erected there the worke and Tombe both of the said Harold For he being crept up by the errour of men and his owne ambition to regall Dignity built this Abbay in honour of an Holy Crosse found farre Westward and brought hither as they write by miracle Heerein made he his prayers and vowes for victory when hee marched against Normans and being soone after slaine by them was by his mother who had with most suppliant suite craved and obtained at the Conquerours hands his Corps here entombed But now it hath a Baron namely Sir Edward Deny called lately unto that honour by King Iames his Writ Over this Towne upon the rising of an Hill standeth Copthall and yeeldeth a great way off a faire sight to seed mens eyes This was the habitation in times past of Fitz-Aucher and lately of Sir Thomas Heneage Knight who made it a very goodly and beautifull house Neere unto this River also was seated no doubt DUROLITUM a Towne of antique memory which the Emperour Antonine maketh mention of but in what place precisely I am not able to shew For the ancient places of this County I tell you once for all before hand lye hidden so enwrapped in obscurity that I who elsewhere could see somewhat heerein am heere more than dim-sighted But if I may give my guesse I would thinke that to have beene DUROLITUM which retaining still some marke of the old name is called at this day Leyton that is The Towne upon Ley like as Durolitum in the British Tongue signifieth The water Ley. A small Village it is in these daies inhabited in scattering wise five miles from London for which five through the carelesse negligence of transcribers is crept into Antonine xv That there was a common passage heere in times past over the River a place nigh unto it called Ouldfourd seemeth to proove in which when Queene Mawd wife to King Henry the First hardly escaped danger of drowning shee gave order that a little beneath at Stretford there should bee a Bridge made over the water There the River brancheth into three severall streames and most pleasantly watereth on every side the greene medowes wherein I saw the remaines of a little Monasterie which William Montfichet a Lord of great name of the Normans race built in the yeere of our Lord 1140. and forthwith Ley gathering it selfe againe into one chanell mildely dischargeth it selfe in the Tamis whereupon the place is called Leymouth The Tamis which is mightily by this time encreased doth violently carry away with him the streames of many waters hath a sight to speake onely of what is worth remembrance of Berking which Bede nameth Berecing a Nunnery founded by Erkenwald Bishop of London where Roding a little River entreth into the Tamis This running hard by many Villages imparteth his name unto them as Heigh Roding Eithorp Roding Leaden Roding c. of the which Leofwin a Nobleman gave one or two in times past to
Edward the Thirds sonne who after hee had married a wife out of that house was entituled by his father Duke of Clarence For he of this place with a fuller sound than that of Clare was stiled Duke of Clarence like as before him the sonnes of Earle Gislebert and their successors were hence surnamed De Clare and called Earles of Clare Who died at Languvill in Italy after he had by a second marriage matched with a Daughter of Galâ—acius Vicount of Millain and in the Collegiat Church here lieth interred as also Ioan Acres daughter to King Edward the first married to Gislebert de Clare Earle of Glocester Here peradventure the Readers may looke that I should set downe the Earles of Clare so denominated of this place and the Dukes of Clarence considering they have beene alwayes in this Realme of right honorable reputation and verily so will I doe in few words for their satisfaction in this behalfe Richard the sonne of Gislebert Earle of Augy in Normandy served in the warres under King William when hee entred England and by him was endowed with the Townes of Clare and Tunbridge This Gislebert begat foure sonnes namely Gislebert Roger Walter and Robert from whom the Fitz-walters are descended Gislebert by the daughter of the Earle of Cleremont had issue Richard who succeeded him Gislebert of whom came that Noble Richard Earle of Pembroch and Conquerour of Ireland and Walter Richard the first begotten sonne was slaine by the Welshmen and left behinde him two sonnes Gilbert and Roger. Gilbert in King Stephens dayes was Earle of Herford howbeit both he and his Successours are more often and commonly called Earles of Clare of this their principall seat and habitation yea and so many times they wrote themselves After him dying without issue succeeded his brother Roger whose sonne Richard tooke to wife Amice the daughter and one of the Heires to William Earle of Glocester in right of whom his posterity were Earles of Glocester And those you may see in their due place But when at length their issue male failed Leonel Third sonne of King Edward the Third who had married Elizabeth the Daughter and sole Heire of William de Burgh Earle of Vlster begotten of the Bodie of Elizabeth Clare was by his Father honoured with this new Title Duke of Clarence But when as hee had but one onely Daughter named Phillippa wife to Edmund Mortimer Earle of March King Henry the Fourth created Thomas his owne yonger sonne Duke of Clarence who being withall Earle of Albemarle High Steward of England and Governour of Normandy and having no lawfull issue was slaine in Anjou by the violent assault of Scots and French A long time after king Edward the Fourth bestowed this honour upon his owne brother George whom after grievous enmity and bitter hatred hee had received againe into favour and yet at the last made an end of him in prison causing him as the report currently goeth to be drowned in a Butte of Malmesey A thing naturally engraffed in men that whom they have feared and with whom they have contended in matter of life those they hate for ever though they be their naturall brethren From Clare by Long-Melford a very faire Almes-house lately built by that good man Sir William Cordal Knight and Maister of the Rolls Stour passeth on and commeth to Sudbury that is to say the South-Burgh and runneth in manner round about it which men suppose to have beene in old time the chiefe towne of this Shire and to have taken this name in regard of Norwich that is The Northren Towne Neither would it take it well at this day to be counted much inferiour to the Townes adjoyning for it is populous and wealthy by reason of Clothing there and hath for the chiefe Magistrate a Major who every yeare is chosen out of seaven Aldermen Not farre from hence distant is Edwardeston a Towne of no great name at this day but yet in times past it had Lords therein dwelling of passing great Honour of the surname of Mont-chensie out of which Family Sir Guarin Montchensie married the daughter and one of the heires of that mighty William Marescall Earle of Pembroch and of her begat a daughter named Ioan who unto the stile of her Husband William de Valentia of the family of Lusignie in France brought and adjoyned the title of Earle of Penbroch But the said Sir Guarin Mont-chensy as he was a right honourable person so he was a man exceeding wealthy in so much as in those dayes they accounted him the most potent Baron and the rich Crassus of England For his last will and testament amounted unto two hundred thousand Markes no small wealth as the standard was then From a younger brother or cadet of this house of Montchensie issued by an heire generall the Family of the Waldgraves who have long flourished in Knightly degree at Smalebridge neerer to Stoure as another Family of great account in elder ages at Buers which was thereof surnamed A few miles from hence Stour is enlarged with Breton a small Brooke at one of whose heads is seene Bretenham a very slender little towne where fcarce remaineth any shew at all of any great building and yet both the neere resemblance and the signification of the name partly induced me to thinke it to be that COMBRETONIUM whereof Antonine the Emperour made mention in this tract For like as Bretenham in English signifieth an Habitation or Mansion place by Breton so Combretonium in British or Welsh betokeneth a Valley or a place lying somewhat low by Breton But this in Peutegerius his Table is falsly named COMVETRONUM and ADCOVECIN Somewhat Eastward from hence is Nettlested seene of whence was Sir Thomas Wentworth whom King Henry the Eighth adorned with the title of Baron Wentworth and neere thereto is Offion that is to say The towne of Offa King of the Mercians where upon a clay Hill lie the ruines of an ancient Castle which they say Offa built after he had wickedly murdered Aethelbert King of the East-Angles and usurped his Kingdome But to returne to the River Breton Upon another brooke that joyneth therewith standeth Lancham a pretty Mercat and neere it the Manour of Burnt-Elleie whereunto King Henry the Third granted a Mercate at the request of Sir Henry Shelton Lord thereof whose posterity a long time heere flourished Hadley in the Saxons language 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 is watered with the same brooke a towne of good note in these dayes for making of Clothes and in old time much mentioned by our Historians because Guthrum or Gormo the Dane was heere buried For when Aelfred brought him to this passe that he became Christian and was baptized hee assigned unto him these countries of the East-Angles that he might to use the words of mine Author cherish them by right of inheritance under the Allegiance of a King
Holt or tuft of trees and for the Mercat well knowne running about five miles distant from Yare holdeth on a joynt course a great way and keepeth pace with him by Blickling now the seat of the ancient Family of Clere who in former times dwelt at Ormesby and by Ailesham a Mercat Towne of good resort where the Earle of Athole in Scotland had lands not farre from Worsted whereas I reade the Stuffe Worsted in so great request amongst our Ancestours was first made and hence so named as Dornicks Cameric Calecut c. had in like manner their denomination from the places where they were first invented and made Then passeth Thyrn nere the decayed great Abbay called Saint Benet in the Holme which Knut the Dane built and the Monkes afterward so strengthned with most strong wals and bulwarks that it seemed rather a Castle than a Cloister In so much that William the Conquerour could not winne it by assault untill a Monke betraied it into his hands upon this condition that himselfe might bee made Abbot thereof Which was done accordingly but forthwith this new Abbot for being a Traitour as the Inhabitants make report was hanged up by the Kings commandement and so justly punished for this treason But the ground in this Island or Holme is so fenny and rotten that if a man cut up the strings and rootes of trees and shrubs there growing it floteth aloft on the water and is ready to follow one whither he will have it And some there be who thinke by the Perwinkles and Cocles that other while are digged up there that the Sea had broken in thither From thence runneth this River downe by Ludham an house of the Bishops of Norwich and by Clipsby which gave name to a Family of ancient note in his Tract and straightway uniteth his owne streame with the Yare From the mouth of Yare the shore goeth directly as it were North to Winterton a point or cape very well knowne to Sailers which tooke that name I suppose of the cold and winterly Situation For it lieth full upon the Ocean the father of windes and cold who with exceeding violence rusheth against the bankes and piles that are opposed against him Howbeit the Country adjoyning round about in many mens opinion hath the fattest Soile and softest mould of any country in all England as which asketh least labour and yeeldeth most fruit For with a silly jade as Plinie writeth of Bizacium in Africke and a poore old woman at one side of the yoake drawing the plough it is easily broken up and eared From Winterton immediately the shore turning Westward the sea retireth without any bearing out in manner at all along a flat and low coast as farre as to Eccles which is almost overflowed and drowned with the Ocean From thence it carrieth an higher shore by Bronholme sometime a Priory founded and enriched by G. Glanvill and seated upon the sharpe top of an hill the Crosse whereof our ancestours had in holy reverence I know not for what miracles Next it is Paston a small townlet which yet hath given sirname to a Family growne great both in Estate and alliance since they matched with an Heiresse of Beary and Maultbye Not far hence is Gimmingham which with other Manors John Earle of Warren and Surrie gave in times past to Thomas Earle of Lancaster and by Cromer where the neighbour Inhabitants with great expense went about to make an Havenet but to small purpose the Ocean so furiously played the Tyrant and made resistance Thence the Shore runneth forth to Wauburne-hope a Creeke fortified in our time so called of Wauburne a little Towne unto which by the intercession of Oliver de Burdeaux King Edward the Second granted the Liberty of keeping a Mercat Next unto it is Clay and over against it with a little River running betweene Blackney our Country man Bale calleth it Nigeria a famous House of Carmelite Friers in this late age afore going built by Sir Robert de Roos Sir Robert Bacon and John Bret out of which came John Baconthorp so named of the place of his nativity which now is the habitation of the Heidons an ancient Race of Knights degree A man in that age of such variety and depth withall of excellent learning that hee was had in exceeding great admiration among the Italians and commonly called The Resolute Doctor Whence it is that Paulus Pansa thus writeth of him If thy minde stand to enter into the secret power of the Almighty and most mercifull God no man hath written of his Essence more exactly If any man desireth to learne the causes of things or the effects of Nature if hee wish to know the sundry motions of Heaven and the contrary qualities of the Elements this man offereth himselfe as a store-house to furnish him The Armour of Christian Religion of better proofe and defence than those of Vulcans making against the Iewes this resolute Doctour alone hath delivered c. When you are past Wauburne the Coast lieth more low and flat as farre as to Saint Edmunds Point cut through and distinguished with many a rillet and hardly defended from the injury of the Sea by heapes of sand which they use to call Meales opposed against it More within the Country is Walsingham scarce foure miles from hence whereupon it is that of the vicinity unto the Sea Erasmus calleth it Parathalassia Very famous now is this Village by reason of the best Saffron growing there but of late time as much renowned through all England for a Pilgrimage to our Ladie the Virgin Mary whom hee who had not in that former Age visited and presented with offerings was reputed irreligious But this shall Erasmus an eye-witnesse describe in his owne very words Not farre from the Sea saith hee about foure miles there standeth a Towne living almost of nothing else but upon the resort of Pilgrimes There is a Colledge of Chanons yet such as unto whom the Latinists have given the addition of Regulares a middle kinde betwixt Monkes and those Chanons whom they terme Secular This Colledge hath scarce any other Revenewes than from the liberality of the said Virgin For certaine of the greater Presents and Oblations are layed up and preserved But if there be any money offered or ought else of small value that goeth unto the maintenance of the Covent and their Head or President whom they call Prior. The Church is faire and neat yet in it the Virgin dwelleth not that honour forsooth shee hath done unto her Sonne shee hath her Church by her selfe but so as that shee may bee on the right hand of her Sonne Neither doth shee dwell heere for all this for why the Building is not yet finished and the place hath a through light and ayre on all sides with open doores and wide open windowes the Ocean Sea withall the father and foster of windes
either by dint of sword conquered or by surrender gat the whole into his owne hands and was the first that was stiled Earle of Ulster but when his great exploits and fortunate archievements had wrought him such envie that through his owne vertues and other mens vices he was banished out of the Realme Hugh Lacy the second sonne of Hugh Lacy Lord of Meth who had commandement to pursue him by force and armes was by King John appointed his successour being created Earle of Ulster by the sword of which honour notwithstanding the same King afterward deprived him for his tumultuous insolency and hee was in the end received into favour againe But for the sounder testimony hereof it were good to exemplifie the same word for word out of the records of Ireland Hugh de Lacy sometime Earle of Ulster held all Ulster exempt and separate from all other counties whatsoever of the Kings of England in chiefe by service of three Knights so often as the Kings service was proclaimed and be held all Pleas in his owne Court that pertaine to a Iustice and Sheriffe and held a Court of Chancery of his own c. And afterward all Ulster came into the hands of our Soveraigne Lord K. Iohn by the forfeiture of the foresaid Hugh unto whom after that K. Henry the third demised it for terme of the said Hughs life And when Hugh was deceased Walter de Burgo did that service unto Lord Edward K. Henries son Lord of Ireland before he was King And the same Lord Edward feoffed the aforesaid Walter in the said land of Ulster to have and to hold unto the same Walter and to his heires by the service aforesaid as freely and wholly as the above named Hugh de Lacy held it excepting the advowsons of Cathedrall Churches and the demesne of the same also the Pleas of the Crowne to wit Rape Forstall Firing and Treasure Trouve which our soveraigne Lord K. Edward retained to himselfe and his heires This Walter de Burgo who was Lord of Conaght and Earle of Ulster begat of the only daughter of Hugh de Lacy Richard Earle of Ulster who after hee had endured many troubles and calamities died in the yeere 1326. Richard had issue Iohn de Burgo who departed this life before his father having begotten upon Elizabeth sister and one of the heires of Gilbert Clare Earle of Glocester William who succeeded after his grandfather This William being slain by his own men when he was young left behind him a little daughter his only child who being married unto Leonell Duke of Clarence bare one daughter likewise the wife of Edmund Mortimer Earle of March by whom the Earledome of Ulster and Seigniory of Conaght came unto the Mortimers and from them together with the kingdome of England unto the house of Yorke and afterward Edward the fourth King of England adjoined it unto the Kings Domaine or Crowne land And when as at the same time England was divided into sides and factions whiles the civill warre grew hot and the English that abode here returned out of Ulster into England to follow the factions O-Neal and others of Irish blood seized these countries into their own hands and brought them to such wildnesse and savage barbarisme as it exceeded In so much as this province which in times past paied a mighty masse of money unto their Earles scarcely ever since yeelded any coin at all unto the Kings of England And verily in no one thing whatsoever pardon this my over-boldnesse have the Kings of England beene more defective in piety and policie than that they have for these so many ages seen so slightly to this Province yea and to all Ireland in the propagation of religion establishing the weale publike and reducing the life of the inhabitants to civility whether it was for carelesse neglect sparing or a fore-cast of dammage or some reason of state I am not able to say But that the same may be no longer thus neglected it seemeth of it selfe by good right to importune most earnestly being an Iland so great so neere a neigbour so fruitfull in soile so rich in pastures more than credible beset with so many woods enriched with so many mineralls if they were searched watered with so many rivers environed with so many havens lying so fit and commodious for failing into most wealthy countries and thereby like to bee for impost and custome very profitable and to conclude breeding and rearing men so abundantly as it doth who considering either their mindes or their bodies might be of singular emploiment for all duties and functions as well of warre as of peace if they were wrought and conformed to orderly civility I Intimated even now that I would speak touching the O-Neals who carried themselves as Lords of Ulster and I promised not long since a friend of mine that I would write of their rebellions raised in our age And verily I will performe my promise to his Manes whom whiles he lived I observed with all respect and being now in heaven I will not forget Thus much onely I will promise by way of Preface that I have compendiously collected these matters out of my Annales and here conjoined them which there are severed and divided according to their severall times and withall that whatsoever I shall write is not upon uncertaine rumours but gathered summarily from out oâ— their owne hand writings who managed those affaires and were present in the actions And this will I doe with so sincere an affection to the truth and so uncorrupt fidelity that I doubt not but I shall have thanks at their hands who love the truth and desire to understand the late affaires of Ireland and not incurre the blame of any unlesse they be such as having done ill take it not well if themselves be accordingly censured THE O-NEALES AND THEIR REBELLIONS IN OUR TIME TO say nothing of that GREAT NEALE who ruled by force and armes in Ulster and a great part of Ireland before the comming of Saint Patricke nor of those in the middle times who were but of meane note and memoriall to speake of this family after the arrivall of the English in Ireland lay close and obscure in remote lurking corners unlesse it were when Edward Brus brother to Robert King of Scotland named himselfe King of Ireland For then in a troublesome time Dovenald O-Neale started and rowsed himselfe out of his lurking holes and in his missives unto the Pope used this title in his stile Dovenald O-Neale King of Ulster and in right of inheritance the undoubted heire of all Ireland But after these stirres and troubles were laid this new King soone vanished away and Dovenalds posterity pluckt in their hornes and hid their heads untill that whiles England was all in a combustion kindled by the furious firebrands of civill warres betweene the houses of Yorke and Lancaster for the Imperiall Crowne those English that served and lived here abandoning Ulster and
49 Novantes People of Galloway Carick Kyle Cuningham 18 Mertae in Sutherland Novantum Chersonesus sive Promontorium The Mull of Galloway 19 Nodius flu The river Nid 17 Orcas sive Tarverdrum Howbune 54 Randvara Reinfraw 24 Rerigonium Bargeny 19 Selgovae The people of Lidesdale Evesdale Eskdale Annandale and Nidisdale 16 Tamea haply Tanea in Rosse Taizali The people of Buquahan 47 Tarvedrum promont See Orcas Tans flu Tau the river 35 41 Vacomagi The people of Murray 49 Vararis Murray ibid. Vernicones haply Mernis 45 Victoria haply Inch-Keith 15 Vidogara haply Aire 20 Virvedrum See Orcas Uzellum a place in Eusdale 16 The Families of greater worth and honour in Scotland in this Booke mentioned A ABercorne Earle 15 Aberneth or Abernothy 36 Albanie Dukâ—s 39 Angus or Anguis Earlâ—s 4â— Areskin See Ereskin Ardmanoch 52 Arol Earles 42 Argilo Eâ—rles 37,38 Arran Earles 22 Athol Earles 40 Aubigny or Obigny Lords 26 B BAclugh 16 Balmerinoch 34 Bothwell Earles 48 Buquhan Earles 48 Borthwicke Barons 13 Boids Barons 21,22 Brus 16,19 C CAmbell 37 Cassile Earles 19 Crawford Earles 22 Cathanes Earles 53 Creictons Barons Sauhquer 17 51 Carthcart 24 Carliles Carrict Bailives and Earles 20 Chasteau Herald Duke 23 Clan-Hatan 35 Clan-Ranald 52 Colvil 32 Comen 36.45.48 Culrosse 32 Cuningham 21 D DArnley or Darley 24 Douglasse or Duglasse 19 23.45.48 Dromund 36 Dunbarre Earles 11 Dunfirmling Earle 13.32 E EGlington Earles 21 Eriskin 12.29.47 Elphingston 29.34.49 F FIvie Baron 32 Fleming 18.29 Forbois 46 Frasers 52 Felton Vicount 12 Fife Earles 35 G GOrdon 49 Glencarn Earles 21 Glamys Baron 44 Graham 36 Goury 42 Greyes 44 Galloway Lords 693 H HAdington Vicount 12 Halyburton ibid. Hamilton 15.22.23 Huntley 13.42.49 Hepburn 16 Hereis or Herris 17 Hides 36.42 Home or Hume Baron de Berwicke 11 Hume Earle ibid. I INnermeth 36 K KEith 45 Kennedis 19 Kir 10.15 Kinghorn Earle 32.44 Kinloss 49 L LEvenox or Lennox Earles 25 Lindeseies 22.44.49 Lesley 34.49 Levingston 29 Leon or Lion 32.43 Lovet 52 Linlithquo or Lithquo Earle 15 Lorn Lords 38.49 Lothien Earle 15 Lundoris 34 M MAc-Conell 38 Mac-Intoscech 35 Mar Earles 47 Marshall Earles 45 Maxwels 18 Menteith Earle 36 Merch Earles 11 Methwen 42 Murray Earles 50 Montrose 44 Montgomeries Earles 21 Morton Earle 17 Murray 36.40.42 N NEwbottle 69 O ORkeney Earles 53 Olyphant 36 Ogilvy or Ogilby 44 P PEarth Earle 42 R RAmsey 12.23 Randolph 50 Reinfraw 24 Rethwen 42 Rothes Earle 35.49 Rothsay Dukedome 22 Roos 24 Rosse Earles 52 Roxburgh 10 S SCone 42 Scot 16 Steward 25.48.51 Sutherland Earles 53 Seincler 32.53 Somervill 23 Seton 13 Sempell 24.49 Sauhquer or Sanquer 17 Salton 49 Strathern Earles 36 Spiny 49 T TOricles 17 Thirlestanâ— 10 Tulibardin 36 V URquhart 52 Uchiltrey 21 W WEmmis 32 Wintwoun Earle 13 Wigton Earle 18 Z ZEister or Zester 10.12 A Table of Ireland and the Isles adjoyning to BRITAINE A ABsenties 85 Admirall of England extent of his authority 232 Alderney 214 Anglesey 203 Antrim County 112 Annales of Ireland 150 Annales of the Isle of Man 205 Arran 99.214 Armagh County 107 Arklo Lords thereof 90 Arts and piety sowed among nations in sundry ages 85 B BAgnall 121 c. Bannomanna 62 Barry 78 Base poole 227 Bernacles 204 Barnwell 94.95 Berminghams 100 Bingham 10â— 103 Bissets 113 Bishopricks of Ireland 73. Poore 106 Blunt Lord Montjoy 77.105 107. Deputy 133 c. Boyle Barony 103 Brehon Law 140 Britaine 's inhabite Ireland 65 Britain herbe 222 Brittain Huis 221 Brittish Armory ibid. Brittish sea 57. where deepest 227 Burk 81.100.101.104.117 c. Burgus what 222 Buth 22 Butiphant Vicount 78 Butler 82.88 c. Burrough Baron Lord Deputy 115 C CAesarea 65 Cavon County 106 Cahir Baron 82 Carew 76.79.85 Carick Earle 82 Carausius 88 Cassiles Archbishop 82 Casquets 224 Castle-Conell Baron 81 Caterlough County 85 Cattell 63 Cavanaghes 85 Causes of rebellion 101 Caurus the winds 59 Chamberlan 224 Cerne Island 62 Chamber of Ireland 95 Chevers 90 Chairly Boy 113 Clany-boy Clan-Moris 75 Clancar Earle 76 Clan-Donels 101 Clan William 81 Clan Gibbon ibid. Clogher Bishopricke 115 Clare County 98 Clan Richard Earles 100 Cogan 70.79 Connacht or Conaught 98 Colby 86 Conaught Lords 104 Constables of Ireland 97 Colran County 114 Columb Saint 215 Corke County 77. a kingdome 79 Courts of Ireland 72 Coner Bishopricke 111 Curraghmore Barons 79 Croft Sir Hugh slaine 179 Curcy 71.77.53.209 Curthbert a Saint 220 Cuttings Coyne Liverie 76.101 D DArcy 96 Deemstert 204 Delton 96 Dalvin Baron ibid. Deputies of Ireland 71 Desmond Earles 76 Dessie Vicount 79 Diseases in Ireland 63 Devereux 90 Dillon 96 Donell Gormy 102 Docwra 133 c. Dublin County 91. Citie and University 92. Marques 94 Duke of Ireland ibid. Dunboin Baron 85 Dunganon Baron 115 Durgarvan Barony 79 Dunkellin Baron 100 Dansany Baron 95 216 E ENglishmen first entred Ireland 70 Eastmeath 95 Essex Earle 112. Lord Deputy 117 Ewst 216 F FArn Island 220 Fermoy Vicount 78 Farn Isle 220 Fermanagh County 106 Fitz Eustace Barons 88 Fitz-Patric 8 Fitz-Geralds 82.87 Fitz-Stephens 70.79.89 Fitz-William Lord Deputy 121 c. Fitz-Urse 107 Fortunate Isles 217 Frozen sea 219 G GArnesey 224 Galloglasses 101.147 Galloway County 99 Gavalock 122 Genevill 97.163 Gersey 224 Glinnes 90.113 Goodwin sands 222 Gormanston Vicount 95 Lord Grey 75 H HAwkes 63 Hereditarie territories of England in France 232 Hy Island 216 Hirth ibid. Hobies 63 Holy Crosse of Tiperary 82 Holy Island 62.220 Holy-wood 94 Horses 63 Houth Barons 94 Husey 95 I IBarcan Baron 99 Ila 215 Ienevill see Genevill Iona ibid. Iniskellin 106.112.101 Ireland called Ogygia 64. called Scotia 66.117 inhabited by Britaines 65. not conquered by Romans 66. entred by Henrie the second 69. devided 72. neglected 118 Irishmen out of Spaine 66 Irish Monkes 67.110 taught the English to write 68. their Manners 140 Ireland neglected 218 K KErry County 75 Kilkenny County 84 Kildare County 87. Earles Killalo Bishopricke 100 Killin Baron 95 Kinsale 135 Kings County 86 Kernes 147 Knight of the Valley 81 Konctoe battell 100 L LAcy 82.95.96 c. 203 Leinster 84 Leinster Marquesse 94 Leicestre 86 Letrim County 103 Letrim Baron ibid. Levison 135 Limerick County 81 Lewis 216 Lindisfarn 220 Lixnaw Baron 75 Lovell 85 Longford County 97 Londey 202 Louth County 105. Earle ibid. Baron 106 Lycanthropia a disease 83 M MAc Andan 85 Mac Carty 77 Mac-Clen 216 Mac Connell 102.113.216 Mac Guilly 113 Mac Donells 120 Mac Guir 106.121 Mac Genis 109.120 Mac Mahon 107 Mac Morogh 69 Mac William 101.104 Mac Teg 77 Man Isle 203. Lords 213 Mac Swin 117 Mac Shee s 82 Majo County 100 Mandeviles 109.213 Marshall E. of Penbroke 70 86 87.155 Marshall of Ireland 72 Malachie a Saint 108 Meth 94. the Bishop 95. the Lords 96 Messet 155 Monaghan County 107 Mont-Garret Vicount 89 Mont-Norris 107.134 More 105 Morley 72 Munster 74 Muscegros 99 N NAngle 96 Navan a Baronet 95 Nogente or Nugent 96 Norris Sir Iohn 122 c. Normandie lost 226
deliver up into his hands this Castle together with the well what time as he aspired to the Kingdome and after hee had settled his estate and affaires at London thought it good before all other things to fortifie this peece and to assigne faire lands in Kent unto Gentlemen to bee held in Castle-guard with this condition to be in readinesse with certaine numbers of men for defence of the same which service notwithstanding at this day is redeemed with a yearely paiment of money For when Sir Hubert de Burgh was Constable of this Castle to use the words of an old writer he weighed with himselfe that it was not safe for the Castle to have every moneth new warders for the Castle guard procured by the assent of the King and all that held of that Castle that every one should send for the ward of one moneth tenne shillings and that therewith certaine men elected and sworne as well horse as foote should be waged for to gard the Castle It is written that Phillip surnamed Augustus King of France when Lewis his sonne went about to gaine the Crowne of England had wonne certaine Cities and Forts and could not get this being manfully defended by the said Sir Hubert de Burgh said thus Verily my sonne hath not one foote of land in England untill he be Master of Dover Castle as beeing in very deed the strongest hold of all England and most commodious for the French Vpon the other cliffe which standeth over against it and beareth up his head in manner even with it are extant the remaines of a very ancient building One I know not upon what reason induced said it was Caesars Altar But Iohn Twin of Canterbury a learned old man who in his youth saw a great part thereof standing whole and entire assured me that it had beene a Watch-towre to give night light and direction to ships Like as there stood another opposite unto it at Bologne in France erected thereby the Romans and long after reedified by Charles the Great as Regino witnesseth in whom Phanum for Pharum is falsly read which at this day the French terme Tour de Order and the English The old man of Bullen Vnder this cliffe Henry the Eighth in our fathers daies with exceeding labour and 63000. pounds charges by pitching huge posts fast within the very sea and the same bound together with yron worke and heaping thereupon a deale of timber and stones brought up a mightie Pile which we call The Peere wherein the ships might more safely ride But the furious violence of the raging Ocean soone overcame the laudable endeavour of that puissant Prince and so the frame of this worke beaten continually upon with the waves became dis-joyned For the repaire whereof Queene Elizabeth laid out a great summe of money and the Authoritie of Parliament imposed upon every English ship that carry forth or bring in merchandise a certaine toll upon Tonneage for certaine yeares This Sea coast of Britaine is seperated from the Continent of Europe by a frete or streight where as some suppose the Seas brake in and made way betweene the lands Solinus calleth it Fretum Gallicum Tacitus and Ammianus Macellinus Fretum Oceani and Oceanum Fretalem Gratius the Poet Freta Morinum dubio refluentia ponto The narrow Seas on Bollen-coast that keepe uncertaine tides They of the Netherlands call it Dehofden of the two heads or promontories we the Narrow-sea and The strait of Calais as the Frenchmen Pas de Callais For this is the place as saith a Poet of our time gemini quà janua ponti Faucibus angustis latèque frementibus undis Gallorum Anglorumque vetat concurrere terras Where current of two seas In gullet streight wherein throughout their billowes rage and fret Keepes France and England so a part as though they never met The narrow sea as Marcellinus truly writeth swelleth at every tide with terrible high flouds and againe at the ebbe becommeth as flat as a plaine field if it be not raised with winds and counter seas betweene two risings of the moone it floweth twice and ebbeth as oft For as the Moone ascendeth toward the Meridian and is set againe under the Horizon in the just opposite point the Ocean heere swelleth mightily and the huge billowes rush upon the shores with so great a noise that the Poet might well say Rhutupináque littora fervent And Rhutup shore doth boile and billow and D. Paulinus where he speaketh of the County of Bulloigne which he termeth the utmost skirt of the world not without cause used these words Oceanum barbaris fluctibus frementem that is The Ocean raging and roaring with barbarous billowes Heere might arise a question beseeming a learned man that hath wit and time at will whether where this narrow sea runneth between France and Britaine now there was a narrow banke or necke of land that in times past conjoyned these regions and afterwards being broken either by the generall deluge or by rushing in of the waves or else by occasion of some earth-quake did let in the waters to make a through passage Verily as no man makes doubt that the face of the whole earth hath beene altered partly by the said deluge and partly by long continuance of time and other causes as also that Ilands by earthquakes or the shrinking back of waters were laid and joyned unto firme lands so most certainly it appeareth by authors of best credite that Ilands by reason of earthquakes and the breaking in of waters were severed disjoyned and rent from the Continent Whereupon Pythagoras in Ovid saith thus Vidi ego quod quondam fuerat solidissima tellus Esse fretum vidi factas ex aequore terras My selfe have seene maine ground sometime turned into sea and sand And seene I have againe the Sea became maine setled land Strabo gathering of things to come by those that are past concluded that such Isthmi neckes or narrow bankes of land both have beene and shall bee wrought and pierced through You see saith Seneca whole regions violently removed from their places and now to lie beyond the Sea which lay before bounding upon it and hard by You see there is separation made both of Countries and nations when as some part of nature is provoked of it selfe or when the mighty wind beateth strongly upon some sea the force whereof as in generall is wonderfull For although it rage but in part yet it is of the universall power that so it rageth Thus hath the sea rent Spaine from the Continent of Africke Thus by Deucalions floud so much spoken of by the greatest Poets was Sicilie out from Italy And hereupon Virgil wrote thus Haec loca vi quondam vasta convulsa ruinâ Tantum aevi longinqua valet mutare vetustas Dissiluisse ferunt cùm protinùs utraque tellus Vna foret venit medio vi pontus undis Hesperium Siculo latus abscidit arvaque urbes Littore diductas angusto interluit aestu