A Geographicall DESCRIPTION Of the Kingdom of IRELAND According to the 5 Provinces and 32 Counties together with the Stations Creeks and Harbours belonging thereto fit for Gentlemen Souldiers and Sea-men to acquaint themselves withall As also Declaring the Right and Titles of the Kings of England unto that Kingdom Likewise Setting down a brief Relation of the former Rebellions and of their suppression especially that in Q. Elizabeths time by Tyrone whence many matters worth observing may be collected usefull for this present Service By a Well-willer to the peace of both Kingdoms London Printed by I. R. for Godfrey Emerson and are to be sold at his Shop at the sign of the Swan in Little-Britain 1642. To the Reader Courteous Reader MAny have lately cast their Treasure do thou cast thine Eye upon distressed Ireland 't will be a way to shew thy Charity without any great venture Or if thou be in the number of Adventurers when thou shalt have read this thou wilt count thy part ensur'd The Advantage Knowledge and Delight thou mayst reap by it I referre to thine own apprehension and judgement Assuring thâ—e thou need'st not fear to engage thy purse in the survey of that Countrey where so good a King was willing to engage His Person Such is the engagement of Thy Friend and Well-wisher G. N. A Geographicall DESCRIPTION Of the Kingdom of IRELAND BEing in the North of England and desirous to passe into the Kingdom of Ireland and not willing to go more Northward although from Galloway in Scotland which Bede terms Candida casa the Vulgar White-herne there be but a short cut yet more willing to go the nearest way to Westchester but not finding the winde fair at my coming I travell'd along to Saint Davis in Pembroke-shire whence I had a speedy passage into Ireland but somewhat dangerous by reason of the sands and shelves which lye off into the sea but our putting into harbour worse because of the continuall mists that hang over the low flat land so that our Pilot could hardly discern his marks There are many fair Ports and Harbours for Ships on the East and South sides of what I shall speak in the Description of the particular Counties Concerning the names of severall Nations and Men they have their severall conceits it is known by the name Ireland to us It is an ancient Iland and not of little esteem in regard of the greatnesse of it being accounted the third Iland anciently known in the habitable world by good Geographers who say That of all Ilands for greatnesse the Indian Taprobane is chief the next after it is Britain and in a third degree another British Iland called Hibernia that is Ireland so that Ptolomie called it Little-Britain The situation is under the 10 and 12 Climats in Longitude extending 4 Degrees from the Meridian of 11 Degrees and half And the Latitude reacheth 4 Degrees from the paralel of 54 to that of 58 Degrees The Inhabitants are divided by the name of Wilde-Irish and the English Irish living in the English Pale where the English at their first going over did inclose themselves Formerly it was divided into 5 Kingdoms now Provinces namely Mounster lying Southward Lemster Eastward Connagh in the West Ulster in the North and Meth in the midst almost From North to South in length 400 miles in bredth 200 miles MOunster in Latine Mamonia the Irish Mown containeth 6 Counties besides the County of Holy crosse in Typperary the first is Kirry which lyeth near the mouth of the River Shannon and runneth out narrow at the entrance but towards the Sea with a broader promontory imbraced by the Sea on both sides A Countrey mountanous woody and wild loftily looking into the Ocean in which are many fruitfull fields and pleasant vallyes beset thick with woods A County Palatine granted to the Earle of Desmond by the speciall favour of Edward the third but being often ingratefull in their rebellious treasons and rebellions lost it Towards the Sea there is a territory called Clanmorris not farre off standeth Ardart a See of a poor Bishop called Ardfert Towards the South of this runneth a faire River named Dingle a commondious Port on the other side named Smirwick-sound or St. Marywick where the Spanyards to ayde the rebellious Earle of Desmond 1583. set footing Desmond Desmonia in Irish Deswown lyeth largely stretched out towards the South in which are three high promontories over-topping the Sea and contemning his proud waves running out into the South-west called west-Mounster The first promontory lyeth between Dingle-bay and the River Maire and is called Clan-car and hath a Castle built at Dunkeran by the Carews of England in it dwelt Donel mac Carty more a L of the Irish bloud The second lyeth inclosed within two bayes Maire and Bantre named Bear-haven This for the most part is a leane barren hungry soyle in which lived O Swillivant Beare and O Swillivant Bantre both of the same stock and high bloud in their Countrey The third called Eraugh situate between Bantre and Balatamore or Baltamore a bay or creeke famous for the multitude of Herrings that are taken there in this the O Mahouns by the gift of the Carews have large possessions the Calverts Lord Baltimort the South promontory called of the ancients Notium is at this day called Missen-head the Feildings are Earls of Desmond and Vicounts Callon The County of Corke anciently reputed a Kingdome contayning the whole space a long the Sea from Lismore unto St. Brend where it headeth Desmond westward in the bowells whereof lyeth Muskery a wild Forrest where Cormac mac xeg it is a great name and towards the Sea coast lyeth Carkray in which the mac Curties have the greatest power There lyeth towards the South Sea a Port and road anciently of good safegard for Shipps but by reason of a barre in the mouth of it it falls dry at the ebb and is now of little use it lyeth four leagues westward from the out-point of Kinsale Betweene Rosse and Kinsale there lyeth a small Iland in the Sea called Roem which may be fayled about having ten fathome water between that and the mayne three leagues from hence lieth cape de velho or Old-head from whence to England end is 46 leagues it is a high point reaching forth into the Sea from whence about a quarter of a league South-west lieth the mouth of the Haven of Kinsale a very commodious Port 10 and 15. fathome going in and 4 or 5 to the very towne which lieth up in the mouth of the river Bany in a fruitfull Soyle furnished with wood and other commodities Lord Courâ—y is Baron of Kinsale On the other side of Kinsale lyeth Kerry wherry a small territory once belonging to the E. of Desmond right before which lyeth the river Sauranus or Severanus which fetcheth its first originall from the mountaine of Muskerry and going along by the head city of the county Corke by the Irish Corcach honoured with a
for his pleasure Turgesius hearing that wished these Damsels Cupids wings for their more speedy arrivall But the other attired certaine young men of courage in womens apparell and had them conducted into the Kings Chamber from whence all his attendance were commanded but when hee expected more kinde embraces hee was suddenly slaine in the place so the Norwegians were destroyed and the Irish enjoyed their estate untill the yeere 1172. When Dermet Maâ— Morck King of Lemster having forced the wife of Maâ—rice O Rork King of Meth a light woman and with consent by whose husband the other was pursued so eagerly with the revenging sword that hee was driven to quite his Kingdome of Lemster and fly to England for succour to Henry the Second who very willingly entertained this occasion who had long sought occasion of getting Ireland Yet not willing to entertain it at the first in person being not a matter of that consequence for himself to undertake He gave Dermot licence to draw-what power of Voluntiers he could into that action Who applyed himself to Wales where he found a valiant Gentleman of Norman Race one Robert Fitz Stephen who willingly undertook the service with some Voluntiers whose happy and good successe caused Richard Earle of Pembroke called Strong-bow being the principall man invited by Dermot and that with the promise of his daughter and Kingdome in marriage the Earle himselfe with two hundred men at arms and a thousand other Souldiers who arrived in the Bay of Waterford 1171 and presently marched towards the town of Waterford and took it by force the next day to the exceeding terrour of that Nation Dermot then accomplishes the match giving the Earle his daughter Eva with which Ring of Mariage he affianced that Island unto this Kingdome for hee went on with such resolutions that hee in little space subdued much of Ireland Which news being carried unto Henry the Second hee made hast over thither that hee might have the glory of the Conquest and seemed to be displeased with the Earle for his forwardnesse and his rigorous using of that people recalling all from thence under pain of confiscation of their goods in England but the King seemed somewhat appeased before his going over which was 1172 at which time landing at Waterford hee imprisoned Robert Fitz Stephen as having gone over without his leave but not long after released him but took Weiford and other Territories from him Thus did hee receive the homage of divers Irish petty Kings willing to obtain them by gentle means And keeping his Christmasse there in great state and setling the Government of the Church hee is unexpectedly called into England leaving Hugh Lacy at Dublin Who in ensuing time rebelled and were brought under by King John who was the first that planted English Laws and Officers in Ireland and both annexed that Kingdome and fastned Wales to the Crown of England and was the first who enlarged the Royall style with Lord of Ireland In the yeere 1339 there was a generall warre betweene the English and Irish wherein many of the Irish perished after which time matters were quiet untill the eighteenth yeere of Richard the Second being 1400. Who went over then with a great Army but having accepted of the Rebels submission he returned into England during whose time and till the civill warres in England all matters were setled and composed without any charge or assistance out of this Kingdome But in the time of the wars between York and Lancaster wherein many Noble Families were quite extinguished in England many English came out of Ireland either to take part of possession of some inheritances which fell unto them by the death of their friends So they have but small regard of what they leave behind in Ireland The meere Irish rushed on the forsaken lands so that growing rich and proud they began to kick against authority willing to cast off the English yoke and the English Pale had its limits sometime more and sometimes lesse according as they were able to mayntaine But when those civill discords were blown over and all things became calme by the good successe of Henry the Seventh and leasure afforded to look towards Ireland which then harboured a Rebell against him one Perkin Warbeck who connterfeited himself Richard the Third but was suppressed by the sending over of 1000 men Again Henry the eighth sent over 500 souldiers to suppresse the Geraldines of English Race Afterward all peaceable untill Queene Elizabeths time when they saw themselves out of hope to plant Popish Superstition in any of her Dominions Then Religion never untill that age became the cloake for Rebellion and the Roman Locusts the incendiaries of Christendome to mayntaine the Popes usurped authority breathed every where fire and sword and worse against her sacred person and Dominions And taking advantage of the blinde zeale of the ignorant Irish unto Popery working on their variable condition Boulstering up their hopes and hearts with that old saying He that will England win must at Ireland first begin By which means they raised two dangerous Rebellions in that Country By the Earle of Desmond one 1578 the other of Tyrone about 1590 plotting and intending although it brake not out till afterward This Gerald Earle of Desmond of English Race whose Progenitours had done good service against the Irish and borderers of Wales in the behalfe of the English King had the Earldome of Kildare given them and Earles of Desmond by Edward the Third But in Henry the Eighth's days one of them being Lord Deputy and questioned for his ill government on which occasion Thomas Fitz Gerald his sonne took armes but was soon suppressed himselfe and five of his Uncles being taken and executed Queen Mary restored the Family to honour and estate But after Gerald Earle of Desmond 1578 rebelled against Queene Elizabeth unto whose aide came certaine bands of Italians and Spaniards sent by Pope Gregory the twelfth and Philip King of Spaine who landed at Swirâ—ic and built a Fort called Del ore wherein they were besieged by Arthur Grey Lord Deputy of Ireland soone taken and put to the sword And the Earle of Desmond flying into the Woods being betrayed by his own followers and his head cut off So this fire soon vanished into smoake and the Earldome by Parliament annexed to the Crowne and made a County with Sheriffs appointed yeerly to be chosen by the Lord Deputy Upon the Attainder of this Earle and his Confederates much land fell unto the Crown viz. 574628 acres English mesure wherof great part was restored to the offenders the rest divided into Signories was granted by Letters Patents unto certaine Knights and Esquires English who were called Undertakers In Kerry and Desmond by Patent to Knights 30560 Acres with yeerly rents 524 pounds six shillings and eight peace sterling In Limrick by Patent to Knights and Esquites and to their heirs were granted 96165 Acres with rents nine hundred thirty three pounds foure shillings half
beasts no where had he until then experience of such in the most barbarous parts that ever hee came unto no where had hee found for Manners so froward for Rites so devillish for Faith so impious for Laws so barbarous for Discipline so stiffe-necked for Life so filthy Christians they were in name but Pagans in deed lawfull Marriages they contracted none or such as are shamefull even with children of ten yeeres old So Langfrank complains to a King of Ireland Therdelâ—câ— that the Irishmen forsake and leave their Wives at their pleasure without any just cause and marry any others even such as be neer of kin to themselves or to the said forsaken wives and if an other man with like wickednesse hath cast off his wife her likewise with like rashnesse they joyn withall With which Rites if this Nation of the Irish had not bin corrupted almost to our days both the right of lineall succession among them had been more certain and as well the Gentry as the vulgar had not embrued themselves so wickedly with the effusion of so much bloud of their own kinred about their inheritance and legitimation nor had they become so infamous in these respects among other forreigne Nations And further concerning their natures and disposition you may take the relation from the Earle of Essex his Letter to Q Elisabet gathered by his experience The people in generall have able bodies by nature and have gotten by custome ready use of armes and by their late successe boldnesse to fight with your Majestis forces In their pride they value no man but themselves in their affections they love nothing but idlenesse and licentiousnes in their Rebellion they have no other end but to shake off the yoke of obedience to root out all remembrance of the English Nation in that Kingdome This is the generall quarrell of the Irish and they who doe not professe it are either so few or so false that there is no account to be made of them The Irish Nobility and Lords of Countries do not only in their hearts affect this quarrell and are divided from us in Religion but have an especiall grudge against the English Government because it limiteth and tyeth them who have and still would be supream Lords if not Tyrants The Towns being inhabited by men of the same Religion and birth with the rest are so carried away with the love of gaine and for that cause supply the Rebels with what they want therefore they must be strictly looked unto The Laws of the Irish was that of fish and birds the great devoure the lesse the strong the weak having but one Free-holder in a County and he Lord both of estate and lives of the rest For their succession to inheritances it was by the law or custome called Tanistry mentioned by that excellent Historian Sir Walter Rawleigh which is this that a man is preferred to a boy the Uncle before the Nephew and commonly the most active not the next heire is chosen to hinder the inroad and oppression of the next adjoyning Lord between whom there was alwayes contention which did so wast and consume them or else being idle the Land would not have sustained them Concerning the apparell of the Irish it is after a slovenly manner and the very English there are much infected with this nasty filthinesse especially lowzie beds and foule linnen except where the chiefe English live as in Dublin Wateford and Kinsale which in some measure retaine the English neatnesse but for the meere wilde Irish it may be said of them as of the Germans that they wander slovenly and naked and lodge in the same room with their cattle Among them the better sort used to weare close breeches and stockings of the same of red or some light colour so straight that the unseemly parts of the body were exposed unto view They used likewise a loose Coat and a three covered Mantle of coarse cloth with a cap of Thrums Their linnen is coarse and slovenly they seldome cast off a shirt untill it be rotten and are coloured with Saffron to avoid Lice which are incident to those people and they are very nimble in taking Lice in a Sunny day or a green bank But in the more Northern parts before the strict civilizing of them in King James his time both men and women went naked in the very Winter having only their secret parts covered with a rag and a loose Mantle cast over them Thus naked they walke with their sword tyed unto them with a wyth instead of a belt And at night men and women lye in a Ring together round about the fire in the middle of the roome with their feet towards it folding their head and upper parts in their woollen Mantle first steeped in water to keep them warm for they say woollen wetted and warmed by the heat of their bodies doth preserve heat The Church Discipline hath beene formerly and now is after the same manner with that in England by Archbishops whereof there are foure Bishops 29 many more formerly It has beene anciently a great Nursery of Religion and Pietie even from if not before Saint Patricks time and Saint Bridget his Disciple who did advance Religion and Piety much in that Kingdome as also in sundry other places of Christendome The Bishops were formerly consecrated by the Archbishop of Canterbury untill the yeere 1142 at what time Pope Eugenius the fourth sent Cardinall Paperio who together with Christian Bishop of Lismore Legat of all Ireland held a Councell at Mell and with the consent of the Bishops Abbots Kings and Dukes of Ireland established foure Archbishops videlicet Armagh Dublin Cassile and Toam But the estate of the Clergy has been very meane there so that by reason of devouring impropriations in the whole County of Connought The Incumbents stipend is not above forty shillings and at some places but fifteene shillings per annum that the people must needs be better fed then taught Their allowance being answerable to the Irish Bishops in former time who had but three milch Kine allowed them and when one was dry the Parish did change her for another Which makes the Gospell to languish where it finds so poore entertainment that the Messengers thereof through want and necessity should live so mean and contemptibly and it gives great advantage to the Priests and Jesuits both to abound and seduces who have mayntenance from elsewhere The right and title of the English Crown to Ireland was by Conquest by Surrender and Submission THe Danes first invaded it with forreigne forces then the Norwegians got possession of it but they were rooted out by the policie of that King of Meth who had a beautifull Virgin to his daughter with whom Turgesius was much inflamed requiring her to satisfie his lust to whose will the poore Prince could not assent yet durst not deny So that he told him he had at home a Bevy of faire Ladies out of which hee should choose
also other letters from the Councell in England that his Lordship would aske what supplyes were needfull and that in convenient time September the nineteenth two thousand men out of England arrived some in Corke and some in Waterford And his Lordship writes for store of munition and victuals to be with all speed sent to Dublin telling Master Secretary that Tyrones very friends would faile with his fortune and many others when they could rid themselves of the feare of him And that the Irish submitted Lords desired to continue subjects if they might see appearance of defence though perchance not so much out of their honest disposition as for the smart they yet feele of a bitter persecution In June the Queene wrote to the Lord Deputy with her own hand a most gracious acceptance and a free commendations of his good service September the three and twentieth the Spanish Fleet came into Kinsale lying between Rosse and Corke Bay out into the South Sea the Lord Deputy and Lord President of Munster being both together with the Councell at Kilkenny whence they road both to Corke Where they understood the number of the Spaniards to be about six thousand under the command of Don Jean de Aquila who was one of the chiefest Commanders of the King of Spaine and had been Generall in Britany And that a thousand of them scattered by foul weather were landed at Baltamore to the Westward of Kinsale And that they expected according to promise great aid and assistance from the pretended Earle of Desmond and Florence Mac Carty who were both taken prisoners and already sent into England And that they had brought sixteene hundred great Saddles for which Tyrone had promised to furnish them with horse and then they would keepe the field for they had likewise many armes in hope the Irish Rebels would supply them with men which would revolt at their first appearance About October many letters are sent into England to the Counsell and to Master Secretary And he tels them that seeing the occasions are so great good supplies are to be sent with all speed because defence must be made for the subject that hath means And money also because the Swordmen which have no means will goe to the enemy if wee entertain them not Thus his Lordship streightned for want of men to suppresse the rebels in the North and oppose the forreigne enemy in the South but that God who accounts rebellion as the sin of Witchcraft and an evill thought against lawfull Soveraignty impiety did so counsell and incourage him that collecting a small force together to Corke hee shews himselfe in field and presently marched within five miles of Kinsale and on the 17 of October within halfe a mile of the walls and sate down under a hill called Knâ—c Robin whither the Spaniard out of the Towne made some shot to hinder his encamping but could not And the next night made a great salley but were beaten back again Many skirmishes hapned between the English Spaniard who always went backe by weeping crosse by Gods providence and the valour of our stout Commanders So that Don Jean himselfe said hee never saw men come more willingly to the sword then ours There was little done by reason our artillery were not come to the Campe But the 26 our Campe rose and intrenched themselves very strongly on Spittle Hill on the North side of Kinsale a little above Musket shot of the Town Sir John Barkley with three other Captains the night before falling into the Spaniards Trenches made them forsake them and fell into the gate of the Towne with them and killed and hurt above 20 of them having but three of our men hurt The disposall of the whole army in Forts Garrisons Left at Loughfoyle horse 100 foot 3000 under severall Captains Left at Caricfergus horse 150 foot 850. In Lecale foot 150. Left in the North Garrisons horse 100. Foot in No Garrisons 800. Left in the Pale and places adjoyning 175. Foot in the Pale under severall Captains 3150. Left in Connagh 62 horse Foot left there 1150. Tot. 587 horse foot 9100. A list of the Army with his Lordship at Kinsale The old Munster list Horse 175. Foote 1950. New Companies 2000 Foot Brought from the North and the Pale to Kinsale 436 horse more foote 950. more foot 2080. tot at Kinsale horse 611. Foot 6900. The whole Army in Ireland 1198 horse 1600 foot But many of these Companies were very deficient the the 27. our Artilery were landed at Oyster haven and brought into the Campe and two Culverings were planted to batter the Castle of Rincovaur which the Spaniards possessed from their first comming which Castle commanded the harbour of Kinsale but one of the Peeces presently brake so we planted two more which grew so hot that the enemy seeing they could not bee releeved neither by water nor land for both had beene tryed but in vaine sent out a parly for Conditions that would not bee accepted but presently after for life only which was granted being 86 in number and some 30 had beene slaine in the defence of it The Spaniards drew a demi Cannon out of the Towne and did play into our Campe the first shot killed two men and indangered many piercing his Lordships tent the shot altogether falling about his quarter some supplies of men munition and â—â—ctuals came out of England at this time brought by the Earle of Thomond and being noysed that Tyrone was comming downe with a great Army to joyne with the Spanyard the campe was strongely fortified on the north side from the Towne and the next day the Lord President with 2100. Foot and 325 horse drew out into the borders of the Province to stop him at least hinder his passage But the Spaniards getting intelligence of the Lord Presidents going out of the Campe and supposing us thereby to be much weakned about noone they drew out most of their forces and sent 60. shot and pikes to the foot of the hill neere our Campe leaving their â—â—enches very well lined Some entertained skirmish with those that did approach so neere Others of our men went about and set upon the trenches and beat the Spaniards out of them so that when the formost retyred supposing to have reliefe of their seconds which they left in the Trenches they were deceived and faine to make haste into the Towne many of them hurt and killed a Serjant taken so that Don Jean committed the Serjant major commended the valour of our men and that his owne had lost their reputation And commanded that no man should after come off from his service except he were fetched off by an Officer The 13. day ten great ships came into Kinsale under the command of Sir Riâ—h. Leveson who brought 2000. Foot with Munition and Artillery and Officers of all kinds to attend the same A list of the Army at Kinsale Foot 11800. Out of which was chosen a flying Regiment as they