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A29825
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An account of several travels through a great part of Germany in four journeys ... : illustrated with sculptures / by Edward Brown ...
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Brown, Edward, 1644-1708.
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1677
(1677)
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Wing B5109; ESTC R19778
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106,877
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188
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of the Counts of Holland and now of the States general is about an hours-going distant from Delft in which passage at some distance we had a sight of two of the Prince of Orange's houses This place is well built the Prince's Court handsome The Piazza by it full of green trees many fair Houses The Course where the Coaches meet the Pall-mall the Wood the Park do much beautifie it and the way from hence to Scheveling from whence his Majesty returned into England is very remarkable it being a streight way cut through the Sand-hills and paved with Brick for three miles having on each hand four or five rows of Trees and Scheveling Steeple at the end of it The Hague and Mad rid in Spain are accounted the greatest Villages or open unwalled places in Europe and the Hollanders have thought it more honour to be Masters of the greatest Village than of a place which if it were walled would come short of many Cities but this may prove a dangerous resolution for formerly upon this advantage Martin van Rossem Captain to the Duke of Gueldres sacked the Hague and it was lately in the like danger when the French Forces lay at Utrecht and Worden if they had forced a passage into that part of Holland Leyden is three hours or three Dutch miles from the Hague at present one of the nearest Towns in Europe Well built hath divers large Streets beautified with rowes of Trees and the water passing through the middle of them and also well fortified after the modern way I took notice of that Antiquity called Hengist Castle or the Berg said to be built by Hengist the Saxon and went up to the top thereof Upon the top there is now an Arbour and a Maze or Labyrinth round it and a Well out of which they told us they took a Fish alive when the Town was almost famished during the siege which was shewed to the Enemy over the wall endeavouring to make their condition to appear better than it was and to dishearten the besiegers There are now handsome stairs from the top to the bottom and a good house built by it where they have their publick sales and entertainments But a nobler Antiquity lieth under the Sea than any above ground not far from hence near Calwyck is a square fortress called Arx Britannica built by Caligula in the declining of the Roman Empire ruined in part by the Normans and afterwards neglected over whelmed by the Sea But in some years and great retire of the Sea the ruines have been discovered and many noble Antiquities brought from it some having this inscription Ex. Ger. Inf. ex Germania inferiori The Stadthuise hath a fair front towards the street In the Anatomy Schools are a very great number of Skeletons Two legs of an Elephant The Skeleton of a young Whale of a Horse Deer Cow Cat Fox and many other Animals divers Skeletons of Men and Women some bodies preserved with their Muscles and one intire the flesh skin and all parts defended from corruption I saw also here what Monsieur de Bils pretended towards the preservation of Bodies but more accurately afterwards at Dr. Ruisch his house at Amsterdam The Physick-garden although but small is well filled with Plants where are also many other both natural and artificiall Curiosities to be seen and many sorts of Optick glasses Near the garden are the Schools built of Brick with the Officina Elzeviriana on the top In the Churches I saw the Monuments of many famous men There is a Picture in the Chamber for the Burgermasters representing the day of Judgment drawn by Lucas van Leyden so much esteemed that it is said the Emperour Rudolphus would have given for it as many Ducats of Gold as would have covered it The Table also upon which John of Leyden wrought whilst he was a Taylor is a Curiosity because he proved afterwards so considerable a disturber of Germany and came to be King of the Anabaptists This City endured a hard siege by the Spanish forces and they were reduced unto great extremity but they saved themselves by overflowing the Country and so forcing the Enemies to make away with great loss and afterwards coyned a memorial-Medall with this Inscription Ut Senacherib à Jerusalem sic Hispani a Leydae noctu fugerunt 1574. From Leyden I came to Haerlem a neat City pleasantly seated and having a Grove near it The great Church is esteemed the largest in Holland with a very high Lanthorn upon it Within are many Inscriptions and Monuments most of which are transcribed and set down in Gotfr Hegenitii Itinerarium Hollandicum In the Prince's house are all the Earles of Holland Painted upon the wall and in the Garden in the Summer-house the Picture of Laurentius Costerus who is said to have first invented the art of Printing in this Town but others attribute it to Johannes Gottenberg a German On the other side there is a Picture of a Ship with Saws in memory of the manner how Damiata in Egypt was formerly taken by those of this Town who as they report accompanied Frederick Barbarossa in an expedition against the Saracens and when the men of Pelusium or Damiata had chamed up their Port by this invention of fastning strong Saws to the keels of their Ships they cut the chains in sunder and so took the Town In the rooms are very good Paintings by Hemskerk and Goltzius as his Prometheus and other Peeces but Cornelius van Haerlem most delighted me in his peeces of Herods killing the Innocent Children his feast of the Gods in which Vulcans foot is esteemed at a great rate and another Picture of a Frier and a Nun at a Collation not inseriour to the rest The old Mens house or an Hospital for sixty aged persons is large and handsome having a good Quadrangle and a Garden in it The Hospital also for the sick is very cleanly kept Here I first saw the manner of punishing Malefactours by whipping them with rods which is more severe than I imagined they lead them to a Post upon a scaffold their hands tyed and by a pully drawn up as high as they can be extended and then an Iron fastned about their wast to keep them steady in which stretched-out posture they receive sometimes fifty or sixty stripes or more according to the merit of their offence Not far from this place there is a great Water or noted Lake called Haerlem Meere about twenty miles in length which is frozen over in hard Winters and men swiftly travel over it by sliding or in sleds When Haerlem was besieged there was a Naval sight upon it The Dutch having about an hundred and fifty Vessels and the Spaniards not many fewer The Town was afterwards taken by Composition but such cruelty was used by the Spaniards that they have not yet forgot it From Haerlem I went to Amsterdam a City at present for Riches Trade Shipping fair Streets and pleasant habitations scarce yielding to
neatness as their Antiquity and odd shape As also a Horn made out of a Tooth said to be given at the same time There are also three Unicorns Horns little differing in length the longest being five foot and an half I drank out of one of them the end being tipp'd with Silver and made hollow to serve for a Cup. These were of the Sea-Unicorn or the Horn or long wreathed Tooth of some Sea-Animal much like it taken in the Northern Seas of which I have seen many both in Publick Repositories and in Private Hands Two such as these the one Ten foot long were presented not many years since to the King of Denmark being taken near to Nova Zembla and I have seen some full fifteen foot long some wreathed very thick some not so much and others almost plain Some largest and thickest at the End near the head others are largest at some distance from the Head Some very sharp at the end or point and others blunt My honoured Father Sir T. B. hath a very fair piece of one which was formerly among the Duke of Curlands Rarities but after that he was taken Prisoner by Douglas in the wars between Sweden and Poland it came into a Merchants hands of whom my Father had it he hath also a piece of this sort of Unicorns Horn burnt black out of the Emperour of Russia's Repositorie given him by Dr. Arthur Dee who was Son to Dr. John Dee and also Physician to the Emperour of Russia when his Chambers were burned in which he preserved his Curiosities I have seen a walking Staff a Scepter a Scabbard for a Sword Boxes and other Curiosities made out of this Horn but was never so fortunate as from experience to confirm its Medical Efficacy against Poysons contagious Diseases or any other evident effect of it although I have known it given several times and in great quantity But of these Unicorns Horns no man sure hath so great a Collection as the King of Denmark and his Father had so many that he was able to spare about an hundred of them to build a Magnificent Throne out of Unicorns Horns I had the honour to see divers Persons of Note in this City as D. Cyprianus ab Oostergo Dr. Regius Voetius the only Member then left alive of the Synod of Dort and others but missed the sight of the Learned Anna Maria Skurman who was then gone out of Town and was forced to content my self with beholding her Picture well drawn by her own hand with this Inscription of hers under it Ceruitis hic pict â nostros in Imagine vultus Si negat ars formam gratia vestra dabit The Painters Hall is considerable wherein are many good pieces to be seen of several Masters Amongst which there are good Heads by Van Colen and Tuart Landskips by Soft-lever and good Drapery especially in some Turkish Habits by Van der Mere. This Town is also beautified with a fair Piazza or Market-place divers long Streets and a Pall-mall with five rows of Trees on each side In the Church of St. Katherino is the Tomb of my Lord Gorge Though I had seen France and Italy and the Noble Cities thereof which are worthily admired by all yet I was much surprized upon the first sight of the United Provinces especially of Holland and the adjoyning places He that hath observed the easie accommodation for Travel therein both by Land and Water their excellent order and regular course in all things the number of Learned men the abundance of Varieties in all kinds the industry frugality and wealth of the people their numerous good Towns their extraordinary neatness in their Buildings and Houses their proper Laws and administration of Justice and their incredible Number of Shipping and Boats will think it an omission to rest in the sight of other Countries without a view of this A Country of little extent and soon travelled over but so replenished with People with good Cities fair Towns and Villages as not to be met with upon so little a compass of ground except perhaps in China From Utrecht in two hours I came to Friswick and passed over the River Leck to Viaenen where there is little remarkable besides the House and Gardens of Count Brederode one of the Ancient Nobility of Holland or according to common esteem of the most Noble Family of all the Family of the Egmonds being formerly esteemed the Richest the Wassenaer's the most ancient and the Brederodes the Noblest The Mount in this Garden serveth for the Rampart to the Town and on a round Bullwark are divers small brass Guns planted The Statua's of the twelve Caesars of Aristotle the Pyramids and Partitions with the Paintings upon the wall are the rest of its Ornaments From hence I passed still by Boat through the Land of Arkel some say derived from Hercules belonging formerly to the Lords of Gorchom and Arkeland till by Mary daughter to the last Lord of Arkeland it sell to John Lord of Egmond and afterwards was sold to William the sixth Earl of Holland I arrived this night at Gorchom a Town well seated near three Rivers the Ling the Wael and the Maes The Market-place is fair the Stadthuis is sunk somewhat on one side The Governour hath a good House and the Church a very high thick Steeple the Works are of Earth the Water-gate is handsome and over it in Great Letters is this Inscription Civitas in quâ maximè Cives legibus parent in pace beata bello invicta 1642. The more remarkable because it made good its Inscription in the year 1672. when Louis the Fourteenth King of France came down with so powerful an Army into the Low-Countries that in that Summers Expedition he took thirty walled Towns and Cities this Water-gate being the Limit to his Conquests this way beyond which his Forces were not able to attempt any thing Leaving Gorcum I passed by Worcum on the other side of the River and then by the Castle of Lovesteyn strongly seated and well fortified and therefore hath been often made use of to secure Persons of Note Sir George Ascue of late years suffered his Imprisonment herein and formerly Barnevelt upon which occasion this Castle hath been much spoken of and hath given the name to that whole party who sided with him well known at present by the name of the Lovestein Faction Passing on further up the Maes I left Proye on the left hand and Huesden on the right and the next day morning arrived at the Bosch Hertogen Bosch Sylva Ducis Boscum Ducis Boisleduc Bolduc takes its name from a Wood belonging to the Dukes of Brabant It is a strong pleasant City seated upon the River Disa or Deese which entreth the Maes about two Leagues below it one of the greatest Cities in Brabant and for its strength for which 't is beholden both to Nature and to Art the States of the United Provinces possess not any one more considerable and is a very good Frontier against all Enemies on