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A26294 The revengeful mistress being an amorous adventure of an English gentleman in Spain : in which are also contain'd three other novels, viz. The wrong'd innocence clear'd, The generous imposter, and The unfortunate collonel / writ. by Ph. Ayres. Ayres, Philip, 1638-1712. 1696 (1696) Wing A4313; ESTC R235117 68,609 211

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of so are the Plaças and Plaçuelas which in all are seventeen and the two spacious Hospitals deserve a particular Remark But the greatest Glory of this City is that it is an Archepiscopal See and honoured with a Magnificent Cathedral which in my Opinion excels in Beauty most of the Churches of Spain except that of Burgos the Chief City of Old Castile Built as they tell us by Englishmen of which for its admirable Curiosity of Wormanship they use to say La yglesia de Burgos es la Ioya y aquella de Toledo no es mas que la Cascara The Church of Burgos is the Pearl and that of Toledo but the Shell or Casquet to hold it But this may compare for largeness of Structure with any Cathedral in that whole Kingdom except one in Cordoua which the Moors widened on the sides making it from its form of a Cross to be an exact square Mosque for their own Devotions This is very remarkable for its great number of fine Windows beautified with curious Figures painted in the Glass with variety of Colours besides which are counted 750 other clear Lights or Windows without Painting The Chappels about it are many and enricht with Altars of curious Architecture which are Adorned with excellent Crucifixes and o'ther Images and Pictures of Saints And 't is very admirable to observe every day but especially on Holy days the Priests Officiating in this Church in their princely Vestments sometimes shining in Robes of Gold sometimes in Silver in variety of Silks in Tissue in Purple and in delicate Embroideries and sparkling with Jewels of inestimable value So are the Images of the Saints dress'd up particularly that of the Virgin Mary for whom they have one Petticoat pouder'd with Flowers of Pearls intermix'd with large Diamonds Rubies Emralds Saphirs and divers sorts of Precious Gems They have likewise other rich Garments and Dresses for her with two Crowns of Gold a greater and a less both set with Stones of a considerable price which they put on her upon great Festivals and when they carry her abroad in Procession It would be a large Work to give a full description of this Church of its several Chappels of the Vestry and of the Chapter-House an eligant piece of Building the Roof or Cieling of which is finely gilt with Gold and about it are represented the Portraits of all the Arch-Bishops that have ever been of this See The Relicks also that the Priests shew are abundance of which they 'l tell you as many Wonders in one Hour as you will be puzled to believe in Seven Years The two Pulpits likewise in this Church being curious Work are both of them well worthy our Observation And to enter into this huge Fabrick are six great Doors or Gates Three on the North side Two on the South And one in the West end where is the Portico and principal Entry all of which Doors are large fair and adorned with vast Plates of Brass whereon are finely Carved many Figures of Saints and Martyrs with other Ingenious pieces of History The Archbishop who is always a Cardinal is Metropolitan of all Spain and for the most part is also Inquisitor General or President of the Inquisition He is in Rank the next Person to the King not only in Dignity and Authority but also in Subjects Revenues and Power and is esteemed to be the Richest Prelate next to the Pope in all the Christian World For there are under his Jurisdiction and Government besides divers little Villages no sewer than seventeen considerable Towns from which the Rents of this Church are raised and do amount to above Two Hundred Thousand Ducats per annum But 't is the River Tagus with its golden Sands that brings in the Wealth and necessary Conveniencies to this City that furnishes the Inhabitants with variety of excellent Fish makes their pleasant Gardens flourish and supplies their Houses too for all Occasions with Water raised up by an incomparable Machine to the top of the Hill the Invention as I was told there of a Moor thô others will have it of an Italian It is this River I say that conveys much of their Manufactures into other parts of the Country that makes their Territory fertile in rich Wines and all sorts of delicate Fruits excellent Corn and Pasturage I have Theme enough to lengthen out the description of this Town much further but shall only add that in it is an University for the Study of the Civil and Cannon Laws by which all the King of Spain's Subjects are Governed And that the City is Famous for having had Eighteen National Councils held in it in the time of the Gothes Inhabiting there in order to the Extirpating the Arrian Heresie with which those Gothes were long infected But to return to our two Travellers whom I have too long left at their Lodgings They at their first coming to this place finding no manner of Acquaintance for Coffee-Houses at that time were scarce known in Spain and the Grave Temper of these People which will not easily admit of any familiar Conversation with Foreigners would have made them pass very unpleasantly there their vacant time that lay as we say but heavy on their hands by the many Obstacles and tedious Delays they met with in their Business had they not both been Studious and Lovers of Books especially Don Feliz who was something of a Scholar having a Genius also to Musick wherein he was on some Instruments no mean Performer particularly on the Viol and on the Flageolet an Instrument rarely then heard in that Country nor was his Voice very unpleasant in Singing With Reading therefore or with Musick did they for the most part entertain themselves and often with Fencing when either they had no Business abroad or by reason of the excessive heat of that Clime they were constrained to keep within doors But their usual Recreation in the Evenings was to take the fresh Air in the Fields and amongst the Vineyards or to see the curious Gardens the pleasant Walks shaded with Trees bearing a variety of the choicest Fruits and deck'd with most delightful Greens and to view the Norias or admirable Water-works with which the Spaniards industriously water their Gardens supply their Fountains and keep their Grottoes cool They often went to admire the fine Houses of Noblemen and other Persons of Quality as well without as within the Walls or to view the most remarkable Churches and Convents where by reason of the many Eyes to observe the Actions of Strangers an English Gentleman who is there always look'd on as a Heretick had need behave himself with great Prudence and Circumspection lest by some rash Word or indecent Gesture amongst their Priests he run him into some ill Predicament from whence he will not find it an easie matter to extricate himself In all which places the Churches not excepted it is none of the least Divertisements for Young Men to admire the delicate Shape Mien