North and joyns at the end of a Street to a very fair Mosquee which stands on the South side not far from the Shoar from whence you may very plainly discern the Duomo and the Tower of the Temple Between this new Castle which the Turks call Natoli-inghi-issar and Cape Ianisary there lies to the North-east a small Village or Borough which carries the name of Inghi-issar-kioi that is to say the Borough of Newcastle There is nothing considerable that belongs to it only the prospect of eight Windmills that stand all arow as you walk to the Sygean Promontory Every one of these Mills are turn'd by eight Vanes as is usual all over Turkie Which is certainly done to the end the Mills may have greater force to bruise and grind the Husk of the Grain which causes the Flower to yield very little Bran and is the reason also that the Bread which the Turks eat is nothing so white as ours because there passes so much of the thin-ground Bran through the Bolter among the Flower And here now might I take occasion to talk of Achilles and several others of the Grecian Captains that were interr'd upon this Promontory as also to make a description of the Ruins of the so much renown'd Ilium of which the unfortunate Remains are to be discover'd not only upon Cape Sygeum but also in the Sea it self and the Iland of Tenedos But because several Travellers have prevented me I shall say no more than only this That if we consider how long it has been since the Ruin of this great City of Troy and the prodigious quantity of Pillars and other Marble Pieces which the Christian and Turkish Emperours residing in Constantinople made use of out of these Ruinous Heaps for Materials to build their Churches Mosquees Palaces Baths and other public Structures and then consider likewise the vast Remains that still are left behind in broken pieces of Corinthian Architecture we may certainly affirm that Troy was one of the fairest richest and largest Cities of its time 'T is true that the greatest part of those Ruins which now are to be seen may be thought to be later than the Destruction of the Grecian Flames in regard that the Roman Emperours and Augustus among the rest sent several Colonies to renew the Pristine Glory of their Foster City out of kindness to the first Original of the Roman Grandeur but we are not thence to conclude that it ever arriv'd at that Pomp and Magnificence wherein it flourish'd in the days of the Unfortunate Priam. Nor was that Restauration of any long continuance seeing that in Lucan's time it was the same that now it is above sixteen hundred Years ago as he himself testifies in the following Lines Iam Sylvae steriles putres Robore trunci Assaraci pressere Domos Templa Deorum Iam lassa Radice tenent ac tota teguntur Pergama dumetis Now barren Woods and Oaks with Age decay'd Assaracus's Palaces o'respread The God's own Temples by their Roots fast bound With Pergamum lie cover'd under ground In short the place where formerly stood that famous City is now overgrown with Bushes and Brambles spreading themselves among the Ruins that lye upon the descent of the Hill which seems to have been the chiefest and best inhabited part of ancient Troy This place is distant from the Sea where in ancient Times was the Haven which belong'd to Troy about a good League of bad way among Briers and Thorns If any Traveller should be so happy as to meet in any of the Tombs which he shall find as he goes along or in any other part of the Ruins of this great City a certain Greek Manuscript entitl'd 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 The Golden Compendium or the ancient Book of the Kikanides he would highly oblige the Commonwealth of Learning by making it public to the World For a certain Author assures us that this Book lies buried in a certain Tomb within the City of Troy together with the Bones of her first King Kicanis For my own part I never could find it and therefore left the search of it to some other person more fortunate than my self And indeed I must confess that I never beheld the Ruins of Troy which I have done now four times over but still it perplexes me that I could never yet be able to discover the least Inscription or Monument of Antiquity which might afford me the least light into any particular of its being taken or its ancient Splendour but that I was still forc'd to go away with the same Exclamation of the Greek Poet 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Alas alas the unfortunate Foundation of the heretofore most happy Asian Land Seldom any person goes to view the Ruins of Troy but he also crosses over to the Island of Tenedos which lies just opposite against it This Island is very pleasant and delectable to those that love good Wine and delight in Hawking or Shooting for there is great store of Wild-fowl and plenty of Muscadel and other excellent Wines The Harbour is not very considerable only for small Turkish Vessels or Saicques but for Ships of any greater force or burthen it is no way fit to receive them However as bad as the Harbour is yet the Island might be of great use for the erecting a strong Arsenal and a good Magazine to put a curb upon the Hellespont the Propontis and Thracian Bosphorus and to preserve the Dominion of the Archipelago During the stay which I made in this Island two French Tartans came to an Anchor in the Road. For the same fowl weather that had caus'd the Saicque or Turkish Vessel wherein I was a Passenger from Smyrna to Constantinople to put into Tenedos oblig'd the French-men to seek the same shelter Stopping at this Port some of the French Officers came ashore to refresh themselves and were directed by a Greek that spoke Italian to the House where I was They found me sitting at Table with a young Turk who was also a Passenger in the same Vessel with my self and not so scrupulous as others of his Religion in the business of drinking Wine especially when he met with so good as was that of Tenedos However by reason of my Eastern Habit my long Beard and because I also discours'd in Turshish with my Ioldache or Fellow-traveller the French-men little thought me to be their Country-man and that I understood every word they said Thereupon they talk'd freely one to another and at length discoursing over their Cups they began to fall upon the Turkish and Grecian Women as well in Tenedos as in all the other Islands of the Archipelago For a while I said not a word to them but kept talking on with my Turk 'Till at last quite tir'd with hearing their extravagant Raillery occasion'd by the Wine I could forbear no longer And therefore faigning my self a Turk only that I had been in France in the Train of Mustapha Aga who was return'd about a
sustain'd the Domo against which the two Seats of the Emperour and Patriarch were fix'd the one on the North and the other on the South side Now for the sake of these two Seats and the rest with which this place was environ'd therefore was it call'd Ambon or The place of Seats It was just under the Oriental Semidome having five Windows but low and giving little light All the Seats of this Ambon were taken away when Mahomet the Second turn'd the Church into a Mosquee But the Mirabe or Turkish Altar is plac'd where you see the Letter B and instead of Seats which the Turks never use there are only the Mufti 's Mamber or the Katib of the Mosquee's Desk mark'd C and a Tebligh or little low Balcone for the Singers mark'd D. Over against the Mufti 's Mamber is the Grand Signor's Closet The Seats of the Ambon were formerly appointed for those that officiated at the Quire But the Preacher's Pulpit might be perhaps where the Turks have now plac'd theirs It stands in the midst of the North part of the Church made after a different manner from those in our Churches for it is open before like a large and very high Elbow Chair He that preaches ascends by means of a short pair of Stairs before it leaving his Shooes below and being got up seats himself like a Taylor upon his Shopboard and talks to the People but with very little motion of the body This Pulpit stands at the Letter E it is all of white Marble wrought in transparent work with Roses and variety of Moresco Ornament Behind and over against this Pulpit stand four large Pillars of speckl'd Egyptian Marble forty foot high and all of a piece with so little difference in the turning between the middle and the top that 't is no easie thing to discern their diminution which makes them appear to be all of one piece But their Chapters seem to be of a particular Order which may be call'd the Barbarian Greek The Workman intended to have cover'd them with the Leaves of Acanthus or the Thistle call'd Brank Vrsin but miss'd his design through his ill imitation 'T is true the delicacy of the Tool that carv'd them is to be admir'd as being almost all transparent and it seems as if the Artist intended to have intermix'd between the Foliage some certain significant Characters The upper part of the Chapter that forms the space between the Arches is of various colour'd Marble wrought in transparent work with several branches of Foliage and Flowers and Garlands of Porphyry These four great Columns support six others belonging to the first Galleries some of which are rather for Ornament than Use. Those six Columns at the Letter G are much less than the four lowermost and the Shape and Sculpture of their Chapters is also different The upper part of the Columns belonging to the Women slower Gallery is very rich and good work branch'd with Flowers and Foliage made of Jasper Porphyry Mother of Pearl and other such-like Stones of great price But it is impossible to distinguish or express all these Embellishments by the Graver's Art upon a Copper Plate Above these Ornaments there runs a Gallery round about the Church with its Balisters in the distance between every one of which stands so many Lamps which are kept burning all Night long during Ramazan or the Season of Lent This Balister is the last piece of Building which is lin'd with Marble within the Church The upper part was formerly all embellish'd with Figures in Mosaic work as appears by the Ruins of it in several places the rest being now defac'd by the Turks who cease not to blemish and destroy what remains where they can come at it with long Poles and then to daub the deformity over with white Plaister Which they have not done however so absolutely but that several Figures appear untouch'd out of their reach as well in the first Galleries as in the body of the Church For there are still to be seen two large Seraphims under the East part of the Domo four Saints and a Virgin in the middle under the Oriental Arch mark'd with the Letter I two large Angels and the Veronica or Napkin with the Picture of Christ's face upon it at the Letters M and L over the Sanctum Sanctorum and lastly a large Picture of the Virgin Mary sitting in a Throne holding Christ upon her knees who gives her his Blessing This Picture appears at the bottom of the Church near the Letter N in the midst of a Semidome inlaid with Mosaic work gilded and illuminated with five small Windows These may be look'd upon as a good Omen for the Christians that by an effect of Divine Providence those Sculptures which cover'd the Sanctum Sanctorum are still remaining entire to this day though they stand in a place very much frequented and within the reach of Mischief as being left there to excite one day the Piety of the Christians for the recovery of the Church Over this Balcone runs the upper Balustrade mark'd O but the lower Balustrade terminates under the Angels at an Overture which serves instead of a Door Over this upper Balustrade under the Grand Domo at the Letter g were formerly seven open Arches which belong'd to the Women's second Gallery but now those Arches are stopp'd up only their place and form remains in regard the Turks who never admit their Women into their Mosquees have no occasion for so many Galleries to accommodate their Piety and have therefore appointed those Galleries which formerly belong'd to them to the use of the Men. Over these Arches thus stopp'd up mark'd with the Letter F are the Windows of the two Fronts of the Body of the Church though very ill contriv'd The seven lowermost are very small but the five which are over them very large but as well the Glass-work of those Windows as of all the rest of the Church except the six in the Sanctum Sanctorum is only compos'd of round quarrels of Glass set in plain Plaister which is the reason that the whole Church is very dark and gloomy notwithstanding the great number of Windows which are all low and such as afford but little light and resemble rather the Vent-holes of a Cave than the Windows of a Church The spaces between the Windows are so many portions of Circles or Arches which as they diminish terminate toward the middle of the Domo where they make the figure of a Rose inlaid with Mosaic work From the middle and the parts about this Rose mark'd with a ✚ descend several Rods of Iron at which hangs a large Circle within about eight or ten foot of the Pavement to which are fix'd a prodigious number of Lamps Ostriches Eggs and other Baubles but in regard it is no part of the Building and for that it would have hinder'd the prospect of the Church I have left them out of the Plate An Explanation of Figure IX A. The
below could hardly reach it True it is that History tells us of another Domo that far surpass'd the present but that it seems to spare the curious the trouble and the lost labour of staring upon it at such a distance where they could not discover it fell down it self to the ground where it might be discern'd with more ease It brake down with its fall several things among the rest the Emperour and the Patriarch's seats which were placâ—d at the two parts of the Church mark'd with the letter c. However as I have said Iustinian caus'd it to be set up again and to make it more light as they that believe the Greeks assure us he caus'd it to be made all of pumice stone with some light sort of Mortar to cement the parts together Could I have got up to the top to have examin'd the truth I would have done it with all my heart but as things now stand no Christian is permitted to soar so high unless he will be content to leave his Preputium below for fear of over charging the building which according to the opinion of the Turks would certainly fall with the weight of an Uncircumcis'd Christian. I leave it therefore to others to satisfy the Readers Curiosity in that particular But this I am sure of that all the under part of the Domo is lin'd all over with several Crosses trefoyld and flower-delis'd in Mosaic work and that the outside is cover'd with Lead with a Gilded Crescent instead of a Pinacle in the place were the Cross formerly shew'd it self This Domo of which the largeness and the place are mark'd in the following Plate with a circle of points covers the best part of that which may be call'd the Body of the Church For the Quire was enclos'd from the eastern extremity of this Circle to the separation mark'd with a double line pointed at the letters a a a which shew the place where stood the holy doors and it extended to the right and left hand as far as the two semi-circles mark'd H. H. The entrance into the Church was from the west extremity of the same Circle to the Three doors of the middle at the letter I. Extending to the right and left hand like the Quire between the two letters H. H. which shew the two West semi-circles opposite to those of the Quire The space cover'd by the Domo is just the middle of the Greek Cross which composes the figure of the Church The head of this Greek Cross toward the East contains the Quire and Sanctum Sanctorum the lower end towards the west comprehends the entrance and doors of the Church The wings consist of two Parallelogram spaces one of which runs to the North and the other to the South mark'd in the Platform with the directions f. G. Now in regard this Cross is as it were enchas'd in a square that represents the walls of the Church there appear also four other void spaces at the four Corners of the Square which are mark'd with the letter H. An Explanation of Figure V. ✚ The middle of the Church of Sancta Sophia cover'd with a large Domo A. The place were formerly stood the only Altar belonging to this Church a a a. The Doors of the Sanctum Sanctorum B. The Turks Mehrabe which is to them instead of an Altar toward which all the Mahometans turn themselves when they pray it is made like a Nich in a wall wherein they put the Alchoran and is plac'd toward Mecka where Mahomet lyes intomb'd to which part of the world all the Mosquees are turn'd C. The Muftie's Mamber or the place where he reads Prayers during Ramazan or Lent and all the time of Bairam or upon other solemn Festivals of the Mahometans â— The Grand Signors entrance into the Mosquee â— The Grand Signors Closet where he hears divine Worship c. The places where formerly stood the Seats for the Patriarch and Emperour THE PLATFORM OF SANCTA SOPHIA D. Are the Four large Pillars which support the Domo d. Are Four little Pillars which together with the Four large Pillars support six large Semi-Domes of which Three appear toward the East and Three toward the West E. All these letters denote so many easie stair-cases by which the Women went up to the Galleries F. All these semicircular overtures are so many windows that give light to the Church f. The doors through which the Priests and Deacons went to perfume the Womens Gallery G. These are four great Columns of speckl'd Egyptian Marble all of a piece each Four Foot in Diameter These Four Columns sustain Six other lesser than themselves which form the Galleries above on each side of the Church H. These are Four Semi-Circles form'd out of Four great Pillars and two other lesser between which are two Columns of Porphyrie plac'd upon Pedestalls of White Marble These Two Columns support six other lesser belonging to the upper Galleries that sustain the Cupola above I. The great Gate or Door leading into the Church having Four others that are less and lower of each side K. The Stone work rais'd between the Four great Columns and the Four great Pillars which were formerly separate but are now contiguous by reason of the Brick-work represented by little points belonging to this letter L. The great Vestibulum or Porch into which you may enter at sixteen doors Nine to the East Five to the West One to the North and One to the South M. The Four Steeples N. The first Portico or Vestibulum formerly call'd the Nartex O. A great square Tower which was formerly the Steeple where the Bells hung P. The pair of stairs that lead to the Cocks that belong to the great Cistern under the Church For all the under part of the Foundation is square and full of water that gently falls from the roof which has made some to think that a man may go by water through subterraneal passages from Sancta Sophia to the Sea Q. The outward Doors of the Church R. The Fountains where the Turks wash themselves before they go to prayers S. A Court belonging to some Officers of the Mosquee T. Their Chambers V. A great Vessel where they wash their linnen and other cloathes X. A little Chapel formerly the Vestrey like the Vestrey of St. Peters or St. Stephens the Round in Rome Now 't is only a place where they keep Oates and Hey for the conveniency of the Grand Signors stables adjoyning Having sufficiently describ'd the Domo that covers the Cross which forms the middle part of Sancta Sophia I now come to what is to be found round about adjoyning The Eastern part of the Cross is a large semi-circle cover'd with a Demi-Dome made like the back of an Oven Round about this great semi-circle which is taken out of the breadth of the grand Domo are to be seen Three others lesser which are also cover'd with their half Cupola's of which Two stand upon the right and left
Travellers have taken for an Onyan but is no other then a very clear Marble which are common in Persia. F. The North entrance into the lower Portico never open but upon grand Festivalls and during Ramazan The Walls are lin'd with Marble of several colours over which are the Pictures of Christ the Virgin St. John Baptist and others in Mosaic work the Roof Fish-bone work embellish'd with Mosaic work G. The first Portico or Nartex formerly appointed for Penitents and Proselytes without any Ornament at the end of which are two doors that lead up to the Towers It has only two principal entrances for the people and a small one in the middle through which Officers of the Mosquee pass to â—ond fro H. This was the Steeple formerly for the Bells now useless I. The entrance down to the Cistern under the Church K. The West door into the first Portico L. The Chains which the Turks fix to all places for which they have more then an ordinary respect â— Gardens and other places about the Mosquees to prevent Horses Mules and other Beasts from getting in and which the people being bound to stoop as they pass under puts them in mind of the respect and reverence which they owe to the place M. Four little Towers to the top of which the Muezins attend every day Five and Six times â—pon Frydays and Seven times in Lent to call the people to Prayers N. The door of enclosure containing the Sepulchers of Four Sultans O. A Cloyster round about which are Built several Chambers for the Officers of the Mosquee P. Part of the Serraglio A Description of the Building and Elevation of Sancta Sophia WHich way soever you take a prospect of Sancta Sophia of which the foregoing Draught by a Prospect to the North and West it appears always square for that the body of the Church would be perfectly so were it but only four Fadom more in breadth At the four corners of the square which is under the Domo and which is rais'd upon the four large inside Pillars stand four large massie Buttresses admitting the light in at three Windows In every one of which is an easy pair of stairs leading up to the top of the Church mark'd in this plate with the letter B. Between which Butteresses run the Womens Galleries whither they also lead Of which the upper are mark'd C. shorter and narower as terminating between the two large Buttresses The other or the lowermost is mark'd D broader and longer as having the same dimensions with the wings of the Church To the upper Gallery belong seven little Windows without answering to as many Arches which were formerly open in the inside of the Church now by the Tâ—rks quite stopp'd up as having no need of so many out-lets for their Women since they are not permitted to come to Church Above the roof of the upper Gynaikeion runs a single Wall cover'd with an Arch and receiving the light in at Twelve ill-shap'd Windows Seven of which are very small and in a right line to the very roof of the upper Gallery and Five somewhat bigger in the midst of the Seven below All this is cover'd with a large Domo on the top of which mark'd A stands a pinacle of Brass guilded with a Crescent of the same at the top Which manner of finishing is observ'd in all the publick Buildings among the Turks Under this Domo on the west part of the Church is a Semi-Dome with Five Windows of which one is shut up It appears at the side of two small Cupola's which have between them one large semicircular window parted into six Lights with a thwart piece of stone-work which rests upon two small Columns that support two others Those two little Cupola's were only plac'd in that part for ornament for they have no overture into the inside of the Church nor into themselves as not being hollow Between these little Cupola's and the large Buttresses there are two other Semi-Domes one of each side having formerly six Windows a piece But the continual Earth-quakes were the occasion that some of them were stopp'd up These two Demi-Domes upon the West side with the two that answer them upon the East side cover the four Semi-circles of the Quire and the entrance into the Sophia mark'd in Fig. V. with the letter H. A little below these three Semi-Domes runs a great Gallery with nine great Windows every one of which is parted with a thwart piece of stone-work and a part of two little square Pillars all of Marble of which the Portico under it has as many It is mark'd with the letter E. and is supported with six Buttresses in the midst of which runs up a foursquare Tower mark'd H. it is not above Fifty Fadom high and was therefore the Steeple formerly belonging to the Church but could not contain very many nor very great Bells in regard it was no bigger Under the Buttresses behind the Steeple is a little Portico or Nartex mark'd G. and near to it at the direction I is a large door that leads to the Cocks of the Cistern under the Church The Trees adjoyning shade a little Court belonging to the Officers of the Mosquee whose lesser Chambers you may see at the letter O. At the four corners of all the Building stand four Towers all delicate pieces of Workmanship except that which stands behind the Mosquee of which you see no part in this Draught but only the Spire near to the letter A. They are mark'd with the letter M. having above but one Gallery which is as high as the Windows of the great Domo but they bear their Pinacles above that of the Domo Round about the two Minarets or Towers upon the West side of the Church are the three principal entrances into them mark'd in the Platform Fig. V. with the letter E. but in this last plate with the letter K. in regard that in this place there is but one to be seen It is cover'd with a little Domo at the side whereof there is a little stone cut into steps for those that ride to the Mosquee to alight or to get up on Horseback To the East of this Tower is to be seen one of the Entrances into the large Portico mark'd E. This is the North entrance where you descend by steps into the Church by reason the pavement of the street in that place is higher then the Pavement of the Church Within this entrance upon the left hand as also at the other end of the Portico appear two little doors opening upon an easie pair of stairs that lead to the upper Galleries From this entrance into the grand Portico there runns a little Wall that encloses the three North half Buttresses and the space between them makes a little long Court planted with some few young Trees This wall ends at a little Octogon Chapel which was formerly the Vestry mark'd with the direction ✚ in Fig. V. and in this Draught
not question but that for some small matter he should prevail with them to my satisfaction and that he would give notice to the Goldsmith of his success The Greek either out of affection or interest seem'd to be most passionately concern'd in my behalf not giving himself any rest for solliciting the Candilafti or Lamp-lighter to perform his promise so that in few days he came to me like one overjoy'd and told me that my business was effected that I had nothing to do but to go the next Morning being Monday and wait at the private door of the Mosquee which would not fail to fly open to me by vertue of the charmes of my Watch and four Sequins more which I was to give to the two other Officers mention'd by the Muctar who being satisfy'd I might have liberty to draw take measures and do what else I pleas'd but dig up the Foundations of the Mosquee I that had never pay'd less than five and twenty per cent for my Bills of Exchange that I might not fail of my time and thought my Watch a sufficient price for the satisfaction of my curiosity was very loath to part with my four Sequins to the value of Ten Crowns considering withal that it was not a Mile to the bottom of my Purse Nevertheless after many contests in vain seeing those Adorers of Silver would not bate me a doit alleadging still the great danger and hazard which they ran for my sake I was perswaded to cross the Cudgells that I might see some thing in Constantinople which was a raritie and which I was assur'd that no person but my self was ever before Master of Thereupon I went to the place appointed and foreseeing that there would be some want of a little refreshment in regard I was not going to keep the Turkish Ramazan or Lent but only to draw the Draught of the Church I carry'd with me a Bologna Sawsage a Bottle of Wine and a Loaf Which had been sufficient to have cost me my dear life had they found me eating Bacon and drinking Wine the two abominations chiefly forbidden by their Law and polluting with them the holyest of all their Mosquees Thus I spent the first day well enough without any interruption in the Gallery But the next day was not so calm For whilst the Turkâ— were at their Devotions I fell to my Sawsage and Wine and by that time they had done Praying I had done eating and was fallen very serious again to my business When lo athwart the Pillars at the other end of the Church in the Galleries I perceiv'd a tall long fellow stalking toward that part where I was who I found had let himself in at another door than that at which my Introductor had let me in I was firmly of belief seeing a white Turbant and a person whom I knew not that my business was done should it prove to be any other than one of those whom the Muctar had made of the conspiracy I was in a strange Quandary sometimes I thought because I was at my repast while the Turks were at Prayers that some person had spy'd me from below as having perhaps had the ill luck while the people in the Mosquee were prosâ—rated with their heads to the earth and kissing the Ground and crying out Alla hecher to have too much exalted mine out of my zeal to drink their healths and to play upon my soft Instrument to their lowd Musick I was in a peck of troubles and knew not what to do in the condition wherein I was besides that I knew not where to bestow my papers pencills and Bottle for which I could find no excuse in the world It was a crime that neither stake nor fire could hardly have expiated to find a Giaur making figures eating Pork and drinking Wine in the Turks Holy of Holyes I must confess I was never in such a Pannic dread in all my life and that I never saw the shape and likeness of death so exactly drawn before my eyes in all my days However though I firmly believ'd my self to be a person no longer of this world yet that I might not be surpriz'd with my Bottle and Sawsage I hid them together with my papers under a Carpet in a dark corner with all the speed I could and so drawing forth my Rosary and a certain book which I had about me written by Peter Gilius I return'd to my feat and put my self into a posture of one that had but newly said his Prayers Every step the Turk made toward the upper Portico from whence I had been drawing the bottom of the Church my deadly fears augmented But in regard he came but slowly on I had time to recollect my Spirits to put on a good face and confirm my self in those resolutions I had always taken which were rather to lose my Life a thousand times than my Praeputium once Thus feigning my self to be at my Prayers I held my Book which I had no great maw to look in at that time in my left hand and my Rosary in my right hand with the Beads whereof I was fumbling when the Turk approach'd me and instead of a Salamalek or How d' ye do cry'd Brè guidi giaur ne uhlersen bonda Villain of an Infidel what maâ— ' st thou here I answer'd him after I had look'd very seriously in my Book and turn'd over two or three of my Beads according to the Musselmen's manner Sir I am at my Prayers stay a little while I beseech ye After which having made a Genuflexion together with the sign of the Cross I rose up to speak to him Salamalekum Aga said I or Good day t' ye Sir then going on You need not wonder Sir quoth I to find a Christian alone in the Galleries of Sancta Sophia adding he knew it was a Church formerly built by the Christians who had still a great Veneration for it and being one of those that I had obtain'd permission to be let in to the end I might spend some few hours in Devotion and Prayer and that I expected him who had let me in to come suddenly and let me out again THE SOUTH PROSPECT OF SANCTA SOPHIA An Explanation of Figure VII A. The Turks Colophon or Pinacle-head being a Fig. VII crescent of Brass or Lead gilt B. Two of the four great Buttresses that support the Domo C. The Women's second Gallery D. The Women's lower Gallery d. The Stairs where the Priests and Deacons ascend with their Incense E. The upper Portico F. The South entrance into the lower Portico â— Buttresses that support the upper and lower Portico under which is the Nartex or Porch for the Penitents and Proselytes H. The Steeple where the Bells hung formerly I. The Entrance down to the Cisterns under the Church K. The two West Gates opening into the first Portico and so into the Church L. The Chains which the Turks put before all the Doors of those places to which they bear any
respect as before the Door mark'd with the Letter N. M. The four Towers which the Turks have rais'd about the Temple instead of Steeples of which the biggest and lowest mark'd M* was the first that was built in Constantinople O. A little Cloyster with Chambers for some of the Officers of the Mosquee P. The Fountain where the Turks wash before they enter the Temple Q. The Window where the Sybil of Sancta Sophia sits an Officer employ'd to give Water to those that desire to drink R. S. The South enclosure containing the Sepulchers of divers Grand Signors T. The Tombs of several Grand Signors their Wives and Children T* The Sepulcher of Sultan Mahomet and his six and twenty Children * T. Sultan Mustapha's Tomb. A Description of the South Prospect of Sancta Sophia HAving already describ'd the North Prospect of St. Sophia it will not be much material to add the South Prospect the Fronts of both being so very like The great Domo weather-beaten with its Pinacle and Pinacle-head mark'd A is the same on both sides having four and twenty Windows plac'd upon a Square supported with three large Buttresses mark'd B surrounded with Galleries C and D accompany'd with Semi-domes and adorn'd with a Vestibulum and Portico's as at E. G. grac'd with four Towers mark'd M and beautifi'd with Gardens like the other Mosquees I shall therefore only add for the satisfaction of the Reader the most remarkable differences between the two Fronts North and South To begin therefore at the Letter P. This Letter marks out several Fountains under a small Gallery For the Turks never enter the Mosquee 〈◊〉 say their Prayers before they have wash'd every part of the Body which they think has committed any offence believing that not only the least drop of Urine or any other Excrement may defile them but also the hearing of reproachful and scandalous words and what ever the voluptuous Sences entertain of wanton pleasure for which reason they always wash the principal inlets of sensual Delight And therefore they never build any Mosquee without the provision of several Fountains or some small Stream for which they make an artificial Chanel to bring it up to the Mosquee for the conveniency of the Musselmen travelling upon the Road. And indeed there are always near their Mosquees two sorts of Fountains the one to wash in the other to drink To the first belong certain Cocks which are free for every one to turn either to wash withall or drink for the Water is always very clear and very well tasted To the second belong certain neat Pots of Copper tinn'd where attends a person employ'd for that purpose to distribute to every one what he has occasion for to quench his thirst Did the Turks but love the juice of the Grape as well as the Germans and were not Wine forbidden by their Law it would have been a much greater convenience and an act of higher Charity to have erected so many Taverns near the Tombs of the Dead where the Living might have drank the Founders Health in good Wine of free-cost than so many pitiful Water-Almshouses or Sebilkanas of which there are many adjoyning to the Tombs of great Personages and Grand Signors where the people fuddle nothing but fair Water in memory of their Benefactors of which number is this adjoyning to Sancta Sophia near the Letter Q upon the South side This Sebilkana or Waterfudling School is one of the most ancient in Constantinople being erected by Sultan Mahomet surnam'd the Leacher for that he had by several Wives no less than six and twenty Children which Iye round about him in little Coffins in the Turbé or Sepulcher mark'd T* The other Sepulchers belong to so many other Grand Signors all enclos'd in one Court shaded with a great number of Trees An Explanation of Figure VIII ✚ The Domo lin'd with Mosaic Figures as mark'd in the Plate A. The place where formerly stood the Altar a. The Stairs which now ascend byassing which formerly ascended streight upright from one of the large oriental Pillars to the other at the Extremities of which stood the Emperours and Patriarchs Seats They enclos'd with a Balustrade the compass of the Quire But now the Turks have shap'd them otherwise to turn them toward Koblè where the Mirabe or Mahumetan Altar stands B. The Mirabe or Maharah like a Nich in the Wall where the Alcoran is kept On the right and left hand stand two large Candlesticks and in each a Taper of Wax C. The Mufti 's Mamber or Chair where he reads Prayer all Bairam and upon other solemn Festivals ◠The Grand Signor's Closet where he attends his Devotions ◠The Gallery leading to the Closet D. Two low Terraces or Balcones for the Singers and Moderators of the peoples Voices which they call Belligler The inside of SANCTA SOPHIA y e East End E. The Preachers Pulpit wherein there is a Sermon A-la-turquesca Wednesdays and Fridays F. The Windows of the Church f. The Windows of the Domo's low and giving little light G. The Women's lower Gallery ◠The Women's upper Gallery H. The Balisters that run round the Church above and below I. Four Pictures of Saints over which is one of the Virgin Mary garnish'd under with Moresco Mosaic work and all under the same Arch. K. Four large Seraphims with six Wings a piece L. The Picture of Christ's Face upon the Napkin call'd Veronica M. Two large Angels whose Wings cover their whole Bodies from head to foot N. A large Picture of our Lady sitting and holding Christ in her arms O. The three large Windows of the Quire and Sanctum Sanctorum In the Rounds between the Windows are the names of eight great Prophets of the Turkish Law P. The mouth of the great Cistern under the Church whence they fetch Water to cool the Musselmen when over-heated with their Turkish Zeal The Pavement of the Church is all of Marble wrought in divers Compartiments cover'd with a Mat and sundry Turkish Carpets laid over it The Description of the inside of Sancta Sophia the East end TO shew the Reader now without any danger or hazard the inside of St. Sophia you are to understand that as soon as you come to the entrance of the three Doors in the middle you have almost an entire prospect of the whole or at least of the principal part of what I am going to describe There was formerly but one Altar in this Church where now there is none at all It was plac'd at the Letter A and a little below there was a separation of Wood gilded and adorn'd with Pictures and opening with three Doors which the Greeks call Hagiai Tirai or The holy Doors for that they belong'd to the Sanctum Sanctorum The Quire for the Singers enclos'd all that space contain'd between the two small Pillars at the lower end of the Church upon which that separation call'd the Eikonostasion joyn'd and the two large Oriental Pillars that