ILAND CHAPTER VII VVIGHT ILAND was in times past named by the Romans Vecta Vectis and Vectesis by the Britaines Guyth and in these dayes vsually called by vs The I le of Wight It belongeth to the Countrie of South-hampton and lyeth out in length ouer against the midst of it South-ward It is encompassed round with the British Seas and seuered from the Maine land that it may seeme to haue beene conjoyned to it and thereof it is thought the Brittish name Guyth hath beene giuen vnto it which betokeneth separation euen as 〈◊〉 being broken off and cut from Italy got the name from Secando which signifieth cutting 2 The forme of this Isle is long and in the middest farre more wide then at eyther end from 〈◊〉 I le in the 〈◊〉 to 〈◊〉 Castle in the West it stretcheth out in length 20. miles and in 〈…〉 Northward to 〈…〉 Southward 12. miles The whole in circumference 〈…〉 3 The ayâ—e is commended both for health and delight whereof the first is witnessed by the 〈◊〉 continuance of the Inhabitants in the state of then bodies before they be decayed and the other for quantitie giues place to no neighbouring Country 4 The ground to say nothing of the Sea which is exceeding full of fish consisteth of soile very fruitfull yet the husbandmans labour deserues to be thankfully remembred by whose paines and industry it doth not onely supply it selfe but affords â—orne to be carryed forth to others The â—and is plenteously stored with Cattle and Graine and breeds euery where store of Conies Hares Patridges and Phesants pleasant for medow pasturage and Parkes so that nothing is wanting that may suffice man The middest yeelds plentie of pasture and forrage for Sheepe whose wooll the Clothiers esteeme the best next vnto that of Leinster and Cotteswold If you cast your eyes towards the North it is all ouer garnished with Meadowes Pastures and Woods If towards the South side it lyeth in a manner wholy bedecked with Cornefields enclosed where at each end the Sea doth so incroachâ—t selfe that it maketh almost two Ilands besides namely Fresh-water Isle which looketh to the West and Bâ—nbridge isle answering it to the East 5 The Commodities of the whole chiefly consist of Cattle Sea fowle Fish and Corne whereof it hath sufficient Woods are not here very plentifull for that it is onely stored with one little Forrest yet the Country of Hamshire for vicinitie of Site is a friendly neighbour in that behalfe so as it were being tyed together in affinitie they are alwayes readie and propense to adde to each others wants and defects by a mutuall supply 6 The ancient Inhabitants of this Iland were the Belga spoken of in the seuerall Prouinces of Sâ—merset-shire Wilt-shire and Hamshire Such as did then possesse it were called Lords of the Isle of wight till it fell into the Kings hands by Râ—ger Sonne to William Fits Osburne slaine in the warre of Flanders that was driuen into exile And Henry the first King of England gaue it vnto Richard Riduers with the see or Inheritance of the Towne of Christs-Church where at in all other places he built certaine Fortrestes 7 The principall Market-Towne in the Isle is Newport called in times past Medena and Novus Burgus de Meden that is the new Burgh of Meden whereof the whole Countrey is diuided into East Meden and West Meden A Towne well seated and much frequented vnto whose Burgesles his Majestie hath lately granted the choyse of a Major who with his Brethren doe gouerne accordingly It is populous with Inhabitants hauing an entrance into the Isle from the Hauen and a passage for Vessels of small burden vnto the Key Not farre from it is the Castle Caresbrooke whose founder is said to haue beene Whitgar the Saxon and from him called White-Garesburgh but now made shorter for easier pronunciation the graduation whereof for Latitude is in the degree 50. 36. minutes and her Longitude in 19. 4. minutes where formerly hath stood a Priory and at Quarre a Nunnery a necessary neighbour to those Penitentiaries And yet in their merry mood the Inhabitants of this Iland doe boast that they were happier then their neighbour Countries for that they neuer had Monke that euer wore hood Lawyers that cauilled nor Foxes that were craftie 8 It is reported that in the yeare of mans saluation 1176. and twentie-three of King Henry the second that in this Iland it rained a showre of bloud which continued for the space of 2 houres together to the great wonder and amazement of the people that beheld it with feare 9 This Isle of Wight is fortified both by Art and Nature for besides the strength of Artificiall Forts and Blocke-houses wherewith it is well furnished it wants not the assistance of naturall Fences as being enriched with a continuall ridge and range of craggy Cliffes and Rockes and Bankes very dangerous for Saylers as the Needles so called by reason of their sharpnesse The Shingles Mixon Brambles c. 10 Vespasian was the first that brought it to the subiection of the Romaenes whilest he serued as a priuate person vnder Claudius Caesar And Cerdic was the first English Saxon that subdued it who granting it vnto Sâ—uffe and Whitgar they joyntly together slew almost all the Brittish Inhabitants being but few of them there remaining in the Towne aforesaid called of his Name Whitgaresburgh Wolpher King of the Merciam reduced this Iland afterwards vnder his obedience and at that time when he became God-father to Edelwalch King of the South-Saxons and answered for him at his Baptisme he assigned it ouer vnto him with the Prouince also of the Menuari But when Edelwalch was slaine and Aruandus the petty King of the Iland was made away Coedwalla King of the West-Saxons annexed it to his Dominion and in a tragicall and lamentable Massacre put to the sword almost euery mothers childe of the in-borne Inhabitants The thing that is best worthy note and obseruation is this That Bishop Wilfrid was the first that instructed the Inhabitants of this Iland in Christian Religion and brought them from Idolatrous Superstition with the which vnto that time they were obscurely blinded DORCESTER-SHIRE CHAPTER VIII DORCESTER from her ancient people DVROTRIGES is most likely to haue receiued that name by the Britaine 's called DVVRGVVEIR lyeth bounded vpon the North-side with Somerset and Wâ—lt-shire vpon the West with Dâ—â—â—shire and some part with Somerset vpon the East altogether with Hampshire and her South part is wholly bounded with the British Seas 2 The forme growes wider from the West and spreads her selfe the broadest in the midst where it extends to twentie-foure miles but in length is no lesse then fortie-foure the whole in Circumference about is one hundred and fiftie miles 3 The ayre is good and of an healthfull constitution the soyle is fat affording many commodities and the Countrey most pleasant in her situation for the In-land is watered with many sweet and fresh running Springs
magnanimitie 9 But the Citie which fame may iustly celebrate alone beyond all the Cities or Townes in Ireland is that which we call Diuelin Ptoleâ—ie Eblana the Latinists Dublinium and Dublinia the West-Britaines Dinas Dulm the English-Saxons in times past Duplin and the Irish Balacleigh that is the Towne vpon hurdles for it is reported that the place being fennish and moorish when it first began to be builded the foundation was laid vpon hurdles 10 That it is ancient is perswaded by the authoritie of Ptolâ—mie That it was grieuously rent and dismembred in the tamultuous warres of the Danes and brought afterwards vnder the subâ—ection of Eadgar King of England which his Charter also confirmeth wherein he calleth it the noble Citie of Ireland is written by Saxo Grammaticus That it was built by Harold of Norway which may seeme to be Harold Harâ—ager when he had brought the greatest part of Ireland into an awfull obedience vnto him we reade in the life of Griffith ap Sâ—â—an Prince of Wales At length it yeelded vnto the valour and protection of the English at their first arriuall into Ireland by whom it was manfully defended from the fierce assaults as well of Auscoulph Prince of the Dâ—blinians as afterwards of Gottard King of the Isles since which time it hath still augmented her flourishing estate and giuen approued testimony of her faith and loyaltie to the Crowne of England in the times of any tumultuous streights and commotions 11 This is the royall seat of Ireland strong in her munition beautifull in her buildings and for the quantitie matchable to many other Cities frequent for trafficke and intercourse of Merchants In the East Suburbs Henry the second King of England as Hâ—ueden reporteth caused a royall Pallace to be erected and Henry Loundres Archbishop of Diuelin built a Store-house about the yeare of Christ 1220. Not farre from it is the beautifull Colledge consecrated vnto the name of the holy Trinitie which Queene Elizabeth of famous memory dignified with the priuiledges of an Vniuersitie The Church of S. Patricke being much enlarged by King Iohn was by Iohn Comin Archbishop of Dublin borne at Euesham in England first ordained to be a Church of Prebends in the yeare 1191. It doth at this day maintaine a Deane a Chanter a Chancellor a Treasurer two Archdeacons and twentie two Prebendaries This Citie in times past for the due administration of Ciuill Gouernment had a Prouost for the chiefe Magistrate But in the yeare of mans redemption 1409 King Henry the fourth granted them libertie to chuse euery yeare a Maior and two Bailistes and that the Maior should haue a gilt sword carried before him for euer And King Edward the sixt to heape more honour vpon this place changed the two Bailiffes afterwards into Sheriffes so that there is not any thing here wanting that may serue to make the estate of a Citie most flourishing 12 As the people of this County doe about the neighbouring parts of Diuelin come neerest vnto the ciuill conditions and orderly subiection of the English so in places farther off they are more tumultuous being at deadly feuds amongst themselues committing oft times Man-slaughter one vpon another and working their owne mischiefes by mutuall wrongs for so the Irish of Leinster wasted Leinster with many Townes in the same Prouince in the yeare 1294. And in the yeare 1301. the men of Leinster in like manner raised a warre in the winter season setting on fire the Towne of Wykâ—â—lo Rathdon and others working their owne plague and punishment by burning vp their sustenance and losing their Castle by depredation 13 Matter of obseruation and no lesse admiration among them is the Giants dance commonly so called and so much talked of which Merlin is said by Art Magicke to haue translated out of this Territorie vnto Salisburie Plaine which how true it is I leaue to the vaine beleeuers of miracles and to the credulous obseruers of antiquitie 14 In this County haue beene erected many famous Monasteries Abbies and religious houses consecrated to deuout and holy purposes As the Monastery of Saint Maries of Oustmanby â—ounded for preaching Friers vnto which of late dayes the Iudiciall Courts of the Kingdome haue beene translated also the magnificent Abbey called S. Thomas Court at Dublin builded and endowed in times past with many large priuiledges and reuenewes of King Henry the second in expiation of the murther of Thomas Arch-bishop of Canterbury Likewise Tiutern Monastery or the notable Abbey which William Marshall Earle of Pembrooke founded and called De roto for that he had vowed to God being tossed at Sea with many a sore and dangerous tempest to erect an Abbey wheresoeuer he came to land and being after shipwracke cast vpon land in this place he made performance of his vow accordingly THE PROVINCE OF CONNAVGHT CHAPTER IIII. THis Prouince named by Giraldus Cambrensis Conachtia and Conacia by the Irish Conaughty and by English-men Connaught is bounded East-ward with part of the County of Leinster North-ward with part of Vlster West-ward with the West-maine Ocean and on the South it is confined with a part of the Prouince of Mounster closed in with the Riuer Sbennon and butting against the Kingdome of Spaine 2 The forme thereof is long and towards the North and South ends thinne and narrow but as it growes towards the middle from either part it waxeth still bigger and bigger extending in length from the Riuer Shennon in her South to Enis Kelling in her North 126. miles and the broadest part is from Tromer in her East to Barragh-Bay in her West containing about fourescore miles The whole in circuit and compasse is aboue foure hundred miles 3 The aire is not altogether so pure and cleare as in the other Prouinces of Ireland by reason of certaine moist places couered ouer with grasse which of their softnesse are vsually termed Boghes both dangerous and full of vaporous and foggie mists 4 This County as it is diuided into seuerall portions so is euery portion seuerally commended for the soile according to the seasonable times of the yeare Twomond or the County Clare is said to be a Country so conueniently situated that either from the Sea or Soile there can be nothin wisht for more then what it doth naturally afford of it selfe were but the industry of the Inhabitants answerable to the rest Galway is a land very thankfull to the painefull husbandman and no lesse commodious and profitable to the Shepheard Maio in the Roman Prouinciall called Mageo is replenished both with pleasure and fertility abundantly rich in Cattle Deere Hawkes and plenty of Hony Slego coasting vpon the Sea is a plenteous Country for feeding and raising of Cattle Le-Trim a place rising vp throughout with hilles is so full of ranke grasse and forrage that as Solinus reporteth if Cattle were not kept sometimes from grasing their fulnesse would endanger them And Roscoâ—en is a Territory for the most part plaine and fruitfull feeding many Heards
betwixt whom are extended thirtie-foure miles The broadest part is from Awfold Southward to Thamisis by Stanes and them asunder twentie two the whole in circumference is one hundred and twelue miles 3 The Heauens breathing ayre in this Shire is most sweet and delectable so that for the same cause many royall Palaces of our Princes are therein seated and the Countrey better stored with game then with graine insomuch that this Countie is by some men compared vnto a home-spunne freeze cloth with a costly faire lift for that the out-verge doth exceed the middle itselfe And yet is it wealthy enough both in Corne and Pasturage especially in Hâ—â—esdale and towards the Riuer of Thamisis 4 In this Shire the Regni an ancient people mentioned by Ptolemie were seated whom he brancheth further thorow Sussex and some part of Hamp-shire And in the wane of the Romans gouernment when the Land was left to the will of Inuaders the South-Saxons vnder Ella here erected their Kingdome which with the first was raised and soonest found end From them no doubt the Courtie was named Suth-rey as seated vpon the South of the Riuer and now by contraction is called Surrey 5 And albeit the Countie is barren of Cities or Townes of great estate yet is she stored with many Princely Houses yea and fiue of his Majesties so magnificently built that of some she may well say no Shire hath none such as is None-such indeed And were not Richmond a fatall place of Englands best Princes it might in esteeme be ranked with the richest for therein died the great Conquerour of France King Edward the Third the beautifull Anne daughter to Charles the Fourth Emperour and intirely beloued wife to King Richard the Second the most wise Prince King Henry the Seuenth and the rarest of her Sexe the Mirrour of Princes Queene Elizabeth the worlds loue and Subiects joy 6 At Merton likewise Kenulph King of the West-Saxons came to his vntimely end and at Lambeth the hardre Canute and last of the Danish Kings died among his Cuppes But as these places were fatall for the last breath of these Princes so other in this Countie haue beene graced with the body and beginning of other worthy Monarkes for in Chertsâ—y Abbey King Henry the Sixth who was deposed and made away in the Tower of London was first interred without all funerall pompe but for his holy life was imputed a Saint and lastly translated and intombed at Windsore At Kingston likewise stood the Chaire of Maiestic wherein Athelstan Edwin and Ethelred sate at their Coronation and first receiued their Seepter of Imperiall Power Guildforâ— likewise hath beene farre greater then now it is when the Place of our English-Saxon Kingâ— was therein set And seeing it is the midst of the Shire the Graduation from hence shall be obserued where for Latitude the Pole is raised from the degree 51. 22. scruples and her Longitude from the West in the degree 20. and 2. scruples 7 Neither can we account Okam and Ripley two small Villages the least in this Shire which haue brought forth the well knowne men William de Okam that deepe Philosopher and admirable Scholar and George de Ripley the rung leader of our Alchymists and mysticall impostors both of them borne in this Countie and very neere together But why speake I of these sith a place neerer to sight and greater for fame euen Lambeth is the High Seat of Ecclesiasticall Gouernment Pietie and Learning and Palace of Canterburies Arch-bishops the Metropolitanâ— of England First erected by Archbishop Daldwin and euer since hath beene the residing of all those worthy Prelates of our Church who in a long succession euen from Anno 596 haue continued to him that now most worthily sits at the Churches sterne Richard by Gods prouidence Lord Archbishop of that See a most faithfull and prudent Counsellor vnto King IAMES and a most learned and prouident Guide of our most flourishing Church whose gracious fauour vndeseruedly conferred vpon me hath beene a great encouragement to these my poore endeuours 8 Memorable places for Battles sought before the Conquest were Wembledon where when the fulnesse of prosperitie burst forth into Ciuill Dissensions among the Saxons a bloudy Battle was fought betwixt Cheauâ—in the West-Saxon and young Ethelbert of Kent wherein he was discomfited and two of his principall Leaders slaine about the yeare of Christ 560. and three hundred thirtie three yeares after King Elfred with a small power ouercame the Danes with a great slaughter at Faruham in this Countie which somewhat quelled the courage of his sauage enemy 9 Religious Houses erected in this Shire by the deuotion of Princes and set apart ffom publike vses to Gods Diuine Seruice and their owne Saluation as then was taught the best in account were Sbene Chertsey Merton Newarke Rygate Wauerley Horsleg and in Southwarke Bermundsey and S. Maries These all flourished with increase till the ripeâ—esse of their fruit was so pleasing in sight and taste vnto King HENRY the Eight that in beating the boughes he brake downe body and all ruinating those houses and seazing their rich possessions into his owne hands So jealous is GOD of his honour and so great vengeance followeth the sinne of Idolatrie HANT-SHIRE CHAPTER VI. HANT-SHIRE lying vpon the West of England Is bordered vpon the North by Barkshire vpon the East with Surrey and Sussex vpon the South with the British Seas and I le of Wight and vpon the West with Dorset and Wilt-shires 2 The length thereof from Blackwater in the North vpon Surrey vnto Bascomb in the South vpon the Sea extended in a right line is fiftie foure English miles and the breadth drawne from Peters-field in the East vnto Tidworth in the West and confines of Wilt-shire is little lesse then thirtie miles the whole Circumference about one hundred fiftie and fiue miles 3 The Aire is temperate though somewhat thicke by reason of the Seas and the many Riuers that thorow the Shire doe fall whose plentie of fish and fruitfull increase doe manifoldly redeeme the harmes which they make 4 The Soile is rich for Corne and Cattle pleasant for pasturage and plenteous for woods in a word in all commodities either for Sea or Land blessed and happy 5 Hauens it hath and those commodious both to let in and to loose out Ships of great burthen in trade of Merchandise or other imployments whereof Portsmouth Tichfield Hamble and South-hampton are chiefe besides many other creeks that open their bosomes into those Seas and the Coast strengthned with many strong Castles such as Hurst Calshot South-hampton S. Andrewes Worth Porchester and the South Castle besides other Bulwarkes or Blockhouses that secure the Country and further in the Land as Malwood Winchester and Odiam so strong that in the time of King Iohn thirteene English-men onely defended the Fort for fifteene dayes against Lewis of France that with a great Host assaulted it most hotly 6 Anciently it was possest vpon the North by the
the head of that honour on which in other Shires many Knights Fees and sixteene in this attended Here Dauid Earle of this and Arguise father of Isabel de Brus founded the Hospitall of S. Iohn Baptist And Loâ—â—tote here vpon the Fee of Eustace the Vicount built to the honour of the blessed Virgin the Priory of Blacke Channons valued at the Suppression 232 l. 7. s. ob Here at the North end was a house of Fryers and without the Towne at Hinchingbrooke a Cloister of Nunnes valued at 19. l. 9. s. 2. d. founded by the first William in place of S. Pandonia at Eltesley by him suppressed where neere the end of the last Henry the Family of the Cromwels began their Seat To this Shire-Towne and benefit of the neighbour Countries this Riuer was nauigable vntill the power of Grey a mynion of the time stopt that passage and with it all redresse eyther by Law or Parliament By Charter of King Iohn this Towne hath a peculiar Coroner profit by Toll and Custome Recorder Towne-Clerks and two Bayliffes elected annually for gouernment as at Parliament two Burgesses for aduise and assent and is Lord of it selfe in Fee-Farme The rest of the Hundred wherein this Shire-Towne lyeth is the East part of the County and of Hurst a Parish in the center of it named HVRSTINGSTON it was the Fee-farme of Ramsey Abbey which on a point of fertile land thrust out into the Fennes is therein situate founded in the yeare 969 to God our Lady and S. Benedicte by Farle Aylwin of the Royall bloud replenished with Monkes from Westbury by Oswold of Yorke and dedicated by Dâ—nstan of Canterburie Archbishops By Abbat Regâ—ald 1114 this Church was redified by Magnaâ—â—ll Earle of Essex not long after spoyled and by Henry the Third first of all the Norman Princes visited when wasted with the 〈◊〉 warres Regalis mensae Hospitalitas it abbreuiata fuit vt cum Abbatibus Clericis viris satis humilibus hospitia quaesunt prandia This Monastery the shrine of two martyred Kings Ethelbright and Ethelred and of Saint 〈◊〉 the Persian Bishop by humble pietie at first and pious charitie ascended such a pitch of worldly fortune that it transformed their Founder religious pouertie into their ruine the attribute of Raâ—â—y the rich for hauing made themselues Lords of 387. Hides of land whereof 〈◊〉 in this Shire so much as at an easie and vnder rent was at the Suppression valued at 1983 l 15 s 3. d q. but by account of this time annually amounts to 7000 〈◊〉 they then began to affect popular command and first inclosing that large circuit of land and water for in it lyeth the Mile-square Meere of Ramsey as a peculiar Seignory to them called the Balent or Bandy bounded as the Shire from Eâ—y and from Norman-Crosse with the Hundred Meere by Soueraigne Grant they enioyed regall libertie And then aspiring a step further to place in Parliament made Broughton the head of their Baroâ—e annexing to it in this Shire foure Knights Fees Thus in great glory it stood aboue 400. yeares vntill Henry the Eight amongst many other once bright Lamps of Learning and Religion in this State though then obscured with those blemishes to wealth and ease concomitant dissolued the house although Iohn Warboys then Abbot and his 60 blacke Monkes there maintained were of the first that vnder their hands and conuentuall Seale protested Quod Romanus Pontifex non habet maiorem aliquam Iurisdictionem collatam sibi à Deo in Regno Angliae quam quivis alius externus Episcopus A Cell to this rich Monastery was S. Iuces Priory built in that place of Slep by Earle Adelmus in the raigne of the last Edmund where the incorrupted body of S. Ius there once an Hermit in a vision reuealed was by Ednothus taken vp in his Robes Episcopall and dedicated in the presence of Siward Earle of this Countie and that Lady of renowned piety Ethelfleda to the sacred memory of this Persian Bishop Not farre from this is Somersham the gift of the Saxon Earle Brithnothus to the Church of Ely before his owne fatall expedition against the Danes It is the head of those fiue Townes of which the Soke is composed and was an house to the See of Ely well beautified by Iohn Stanley their Bishop but now by exchange is annexed to the Crowne As these so all the rest of this Hundred was the Churches land except Rippon Regis ancient Demaine To which Saple reserued Forrest adioyned and the greater Stiuecly giuen by the last Dauid Earle of Huntingdon in Fee to his three Seruants Sentlice Lakerutle and Camoys 8 NORMANS CROS the next Hundred taketh name of a Crosse aboue Stilton the place where in former ages this Diuision mustered their people whence Wapentake is deriued it had in it two religious houses the eldest in the confines of Newton and Chesterton neere the Riuer of Auon now Nene founded by the first Abbesse Kineburga the Daughter of Penda and Wife of Aelfred King of Northumberland West side a Trench where Ermin-street-way crossed ouer the Riuer by a Stone-bridge whose ruines are now drowned whence the Roman Towne there seaâ—ed on both sides tooke the name Durobriua as Traiectus Fluminis But this Nunnery as raised was also ruined by the Danes before the Conquest The other a Monastery of Cistertian blacke Monks erected in honour of the Virgin Mary by the second Simon Earle of Huntington at Saltry Iudeth the Land of a Lady of that name wife of Earle Waltheof daughter to Lambert Earle of Leâ—us Neece to the Conquerour by his Sister her Mother and Grand-mother to this Founder Malcome William Kings of Scots Earles of Hamingdon and Heires of this Lady strengthened by seuerall Charters this pious worke Many chiefe of that Line as the last Earle Dauid brother to King William as Isabel the wife of Robert dâ— Brus his Daughter heyre and most of the second branch her Progenie making here their Burials This house now leuell with the ground maintained besides the Abbot sixe Monkes and 22 Hindes and was at the Suppression valued at 199. l. 11. c. 8. d The Founders and Patrons of this Monastery were the Lords of the next place Connington first the seate of Turkillus Earle of the East-Angles that inuited Swayn from Denmarke to inuade this Land and who first squared out the vnbounded marishes of this part to the bordering Townes his rule of proportion allowing to euery Parish tantum de Maâ—isco quantum de sicca terra in bredth in which none sine licentia Domini might vel federe vel salcare but leauing most to inter-common by vicinage This Dane exiled when the rest of his Countreymen were by Edward Confessor his land here was giuen to Earle 〈◊〉 by whose eldest heire Matilda marryed to Dauid King of Scots it went along in that Male line vntill by death issuelesse of Iohn Earle of Chester and Huntingdon it fell in partage to his sister Iâ—abel de
and therein detained the space of nineteene yeares 8 Things of stranger note are the hot Water-springs bursting forth of the ground at Buxton where out of the Rocke within the compasse of eight yards nine springs arise eight of them warme but the ninth very cold These run from vnder a faire square building of free-stones and about three-score paces off receiue another hot spring from a Well inclosed with foure flat stones called Saint Annes neere vnto which another very cold spring bubled vp The report goeth among the by-dwellers that great cures by these waters haue beene done but daily experience sheweth that they are good for the stomacke and sinewes and very pleasant to bathe the body in Not farre thence is Elden hole whereof strange things haue beene told and this is confidently affirmed the waters that trickle from the top of that Caue which indeed is very spacious but of a low and narrow entrance doe congeale into stone and hang as ickles in the roofe Some of them were shewed at my being there which like vnto such as the frost congealeth were hollow within and grew Taper-wise towards their points very white and somewhat Crystall-like And seauen miles thence vpon a mounted hill standeth a Castle vnder which there is a hole or Caue in the ground of a marueilous capacitie which is commonly called The Deuils Arse in the Peake whereof Geruase of Tilbury hath told many pretie tales and others doe make it one of the wonders of our Land 9 As in other Counties the deuotions of the religious haue beene made apparent in the erection of places for Gods peculiar seruice so in this haue beene founded eight of that nature which were Dale Detelege Darby Repâ—on Bechif Graiâ—sley Fauerwell and Pollewerke whose peace and plentie stood secure from all danger till the blustering windes arising in the Raigne of King Henry the eight blew off the pinacles of their beauteous buildings and shooke asunder the reuenewes of those Foundations which neuer are like againe to be laid STAFFORD-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXIIII STAFFORD-SHIRE whose situation is much about the middle of England meeteth vpon the North with Chesse-shire and Darby and that in a Triangle point where three stones are pitched for the bounds of these Shires it is parted from Darby shire on the East with Dowe and with Trent the South is confined with Warwicke and Worcester-shires and the West butteth against the Countie of Shrop-shire The forme thereof is somewhat Lozeng-like that is sharpe at both ends and broadest in the midst The length extending from North to South is by measure fortie foure miles and the bredth from East to West twenty seauen miles the whole in circumference one hundred and fortie miles 3 The ayre is good and very healthfull though ouer-sharpe in her North and Moreland where the snow lyeth long and the winde bloweth cold 4 The Soile in that part is barren of Corne because her hilles and Mores are no friends vnto Tillage the middle is more leuell but therewithall wooddie as well witnesseth that great one called the Cank But the South is most plenteous in Corne and Pasturage 5 Her ancient Inhabitants were the CORNAVII whom Ptolemie placeth in the Tract that containeth Shrop-shire Worcester-shire Chesse-shire and this all which were possessed by the Mercian-Saxons when their Heptarchy flourished And Tameworth in this Shire was then held their Kings Court The Danes after them often aflayed herein to haue seated as witnesseth Ternall then Thâ—â—tenhall by interpretation The habitation of Pagans â—â—brued with their bloud by King Edward the elder But the Inhabitants of this Prouince Beda tearmes The midland Englishmen because to his seeming it lay in the heart of the Land which when the Normans had made Conquest of all many of them set downe their rest here whose posteritie at this day are fairely and further branched into other parts 6 The Commodities of this Countie consist chiefly in Corne Cattle Alablaster Woods and Iron if the one proue not the destruction of the other Pit-coale Flesh and Fish whereof the Riuer Trent is said to swarme and others arising and running thorow this Shire doe so batten the ground that the Meadowes euen in the midst of Winter grow greene such are Dowe Manifold Churnot Hunsye Yenden Tean Elith Trent Tyne and Sowe whereof Trent is not onely the principall but in esteeme accounted the third of this Land 7 Stafford the Snire-Towne anciently Betheney from Bertelin a reputed holy man that therein lead an Hermits life was built by King Edward the elder incorporated by King Iohn and vpon the East and South parts was walled and trenched by the Barons of the place the rest from East to North was secured by a large Poole of water which now is become faire Meadow grounds The tract and circuit of these welles extended to twelue hundred and fortie pases thorow which foure Gates into the foure winds haue passage the Riuer Sowe running on the South and West of the Towne King Edward the sixt did incorporate the Burgesses and gaue them a perpetuall succession whose gouernment is vnder two Bailiffes yearely elected out of one and twentie Assistants called the Common Counsell a Recorder whereof the Dukes of Buckingham haue borne the Office and as yet is kept a Court of Record wherein they hold Plea without limitation of summe a Towne-Clerke also from whose Pen I receiued these Instructions and to attend them two Sergeants at Mace This Towne is sited in the degree of Latitude 53. 20. scruples and of Longitude 18. and 40. scruples 8 But Leichfield more large and of farre greater same is much her ancient knowne vnto Beda by the name of Licidfeld which Rosse doth interpret to be The field of deadbodies for the number of Saints vnder the rage of Dioclesiaâ— there slaine vpon which cause the Citie beareth for her Armes an Eschocheon of Landskip with diuers Martyrs in diuers manner massacred Here Oswin King of Northumberland ouer-comming the Pagan-Mercians built a Church and made it the See of Duina the Bishop whose successors growne rich with golden reasons so ouercame King Offa and the Adrian the Pope that an Archiepiscopall Pale was granted Bishop Eadulph to the great disgrace of Lambert Arch-bishop of Canterbury In this Church were interred the bodies of Wulshere and Celred both of them Kings of the Mercians But when the mindes of men were set altogether vpon gorgeous building this old foundation was new reared by Roger Clinton Bishop of this See and dedicated to the Virgin Mary and Saint Chad and the Close inwalled by Bishop Langton The gouernment of this Citie is by two Bailiffes and one Sheriffe yearely chosen out of twentie-foure Burgesses a Recorder a Towne-Clerke and two Sergeants their Attendants 9 Houses of Religion erected in this Shire were at Leichfield Stafford De la Crosse Cruâ—den Trentham Burton Tamworth and Woluer-hamptâ—n These Votaries abusing their Founders true pieties and heaping vp riches with disdaine of the Laitie laid themselues open
Dane is separated from Darby and Stafford-shires vpon the South toucheth the Counties of Shrop-shire and Flint and vpon the West with Dee is parted from Denbigh shire 2 The forme of this Countie doth much resemble the right wing of an Eagle spreading it selfe from Wirall and as it were with her pinion or first feather toucheth Yorke shire betwixt which extreames in following the windings of the Shires diuder from East to West are 47. miles and from North to South twentie-sixe miles The whole circumference about one hundred fortie two miles 3 If the affection to my naturall producer blind not the judgement of this my suruey for aire and soile it equale the best and farre exceeds her neighbours the next Counties for although the Climate be cold and toucheth the degree of Latitude 54. yet the warmth from the Irish Seas melteth the Snow and dissolueth the Ice sooner there then in those parts that are further off and so wholesome for life that the Inhabitants generally attaine to many yeares 4 The Soile is fat fruitfull and rich yeelding abundantly both profit and pleasures for man The Champion grounds make glad the hearts of their Tillers the Meadowes imbrodered with diuers sweet smelling flowers and the Pasture makes the Kines vdders to strout to the paile from whom and wherein the best Cheese of all Europe is made 5 The ancient Inhabitants were the CORNAVII who with Warwicke-shire Worcester-shire Stafford-shire and Shrop-shire spread themselues further into this Countie as in Ptolemie is placed and the Cangi likewise if they be the Ceangi whose remembrance was found vpon the shore of this Shire on the surface of certaine pieces of Lead in this manner inscribed IMP. DOMIT. AVO. GER DE CEANG. These Cangi were subdued by P. Ostorius Seapula immediately before his great victory against Caractacus where in the mouth of Deua he built a Fortresse at the backe of the Ordouices to restraine their power which was great in those parts in the raigne of Vespasian the Emperour But after the departure of the Romanes this Prouince became a portion of the Saxon Mercians Kingdome notwithstanding saith Ran Higden the Citie it selfe was hold by the Britaine 's vntill all fell into the Monarchy of Egbert Of the dispositions of the since Inhabitants heare Lucian the Monke who liued presently after the Conquest spake They are found saith he to differ from the rest of the English partly better and partly equall In feasting they are friendly at meat chearefull in entertainement liberall soone angry and soone pacified lauish in words impatient of seruitude mercifull to the afflicted compassionate to the poore kinde to their kindred spary of labour void of disimulation not greedie meating and far from dangerous practises And let me adde thus much which Lucian could not namely that this Shire hath neuer beene stained with the blot of rebellion but euer stood true to their King and his Crowne whose loyaltie Richard the second so farre found and esteemed that he held his person most safe among them and by authoritie of Parliament made the Countie to be a Principalitie and stiled himselfe Prince of Chester King Henry the third gaue it to his eldest sonne Prince Edward against whom Lewlyn Prince of Wales gathered a mightie Band and with them did the Conntie much harme euen vnto the Cities gates With the like scarre-fires it had oft times beene affrighted which they lastly defenced with a Wall made of the Welsh-mens heads on the South side of Dee in Hanbridge The Shire may well be said to be a Seed-plot of Gentilitie and the producer of many most ancient and worthy Families neither hath any brought more men of valour into the Field then Chesse-shire hath done who by a generall speech are to this day called The Chiefe of men and for Natures endowments besides their noblenesse of mindes may compare with any other Nation in the world their limmes straight and well-composed their complexions faire with a chearefull countenance and the Women for grace feature and beautie inferiour vnto none 6 The Commodities of this Prouince by the report of Ranulphus the Monke of Chester are chiefly Corne Cattle Fish Fowle Salt Mines Metals Meares and Riuers whereof the bankes of Dee in her West and the Vale Royall in her midst for fruitfulnesse of pasturage equals any other in the Land either in graine from the Cow 7 These with all other prouision for life are traded thorow thirteene Market-Townes in this Shire whereof Chester is the fairest from whom the Shire hath the name A Citie raised from the Fort of Ostorius Lieutenant of Britaine for Claudius the Emperour whither the twentieth Legion named Victrix were sent by Galba to restraine the Britaines but growne themselues out of order Iulius Agricola was appointed their Generall by Vespafian as appeareth by Monies then minted and there found and from them no doubt by the Britaine 's the place was called Caer Legion by Ptolemie Deunana by Antonine Dena and now by vs West-Chester but Henry Bradshawe will haue it built before Brute by the Giant Leon Gaueâ— a man beyond the Moone and called by Marius the vanquisher of the Picts Ouer Deua or Dee a faire stone-bridge leadeth built vpon eight Arches at either end whereof is a Gate from whence in a long Quadren-wise the wals do incompasse the Citie high and strongly built with foure faire Gates opening into the foure windes besides three Posternes and seauen Watch-Towers extending in compasse one thousand nine hundred and fortie paces On the South of this Citie is mounted a strong and stately Castle round in forme and the base Court likewise inclosed with a circular wall In the North is the Minister first built by Earle Leofrike to the honour of S. Werburga the Virgin and after most sumptuously repaired by Hugh the first Earle of Chester of the Normans now the Cathedrall of the Bishops See Therein lyeth interred as report doth relate the body of Henry the fourth Emperour of Almane who leauing his Imperiall Estate lead lastly therein an Hermites life This Citie hath formerly beene sore defaced first by Egfrid King of Northumberland where he slew twelue hundred Christian Monkes resorted thither from Bangor to pray Againe by the Danes it was sore defaced when their destroying feete had trampled downe the beautie of the Land But was againe rebuilt by Edelfleada the Mercian Lady who in this Countie and Forrest of Delamer built two fine Cities nothing of them now remaining besides the Chamber in the Forrest Chester in the dayes of King Edgar was in most flourishing estate wherein he had the homage of eight other Kings who rowed his Barge from S. Iohns to his Pallace himselfe holding the Helme as their supreme This Citie was made a County incorporate of it selfe by King Henry the seauenth and is yearely gouerned by a Mator with Sword and Mace borne before him in State two Sheriffes twentie-foure Aldermen a Recorder a Towne-Clerke and a Sergeant of Peace foure Sergeants and