Practice of this here in England is that perhaps they gather a less quantity of Honey and that should they take the like quantity of Honey from the Bees here in England they would not leave enough to preserve them in Winter But this hinders nor much For by being less covetous and not taking so much Honey from the poor Bees the great enerease and multiplying of them would soon equalize and far exceed the little Profit we make by destroying of them This is done without Smoak wherefore the Antients call this Honey 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Vnsmoaeken Honey And I believe the Smoak of Sulphur which we use takes away very much of the Fragrancy of the Wax and sure I am the Honey can receive neither good Taste nor good Smell from it This Convent payeth but one Chequin for all its Duties to the Veivode It is a piece of Gold of the Venetian Coyn worth two Dollers and an half and about twelve Shillings English The reason of which small Tribute is that when Athens was taken by Mahomet the Second the Hegoumeno or Abbot of this Convent was sent by the Town to deliver him up the Keyes of the Gates which Mahomet was so glad of that to testifie his Joy and Content and to recompense the Messenger he exempted this Convent from all manner of Taxes and Customs reserving only one Chequin to be paid as a Quit-Rent for an Acknowledgment The present Abbot is called Ezekiel Stephaki who lives at Athens and is a learned Man for that Country understanding the Antient Greek very well and Latine indifferently with a little Italian He understands Philosophy too so far as to be esteemed a Platonist and notwithstanding that he is an Abbot yet he professes not to be a Divine but a Physician In my Return to Athens I was daily with him and of him I learned to read Greek according to the Modern Pronunciation I found him to be really a good discreet and understanding Man and what Piques soever have been between the Beninzueloe's and him peradventure have proceeded rather from the Emulation of the first than from any just or real Cause given by him I easily perceiv'd he was not over-fond of some of the Greekish Superstitions But for all that he seems to be both a good Man and a good Christian and that whatever they talk of him otherwise are but Trifles and perhaps undeâ—erv'd He hath some Manuscripts especially St John Damasoen which he offer'd to exchange with me for an Atlâ—s if I sent it him But I have not yet had an Opportunity to send it The rest of the Convents about this Mountain are called Asteri Hagios Ioannes Kynigos and Hagios Ioannes o Theologos There is another Convent near Mount St George called Asωmatos Mount Hymettus is now called Telovouni towards the North-East end and Lambravouni towards the south-South-West end by the Greeks as my Comrade observes This last they call Lambravouni from a ruined Town called Lambra or Lambrica situated under Mount Hymettus South and is a Corruption of the ancient Lampra which they pronounce Lambra But this is only a Point of the Mountain that lieth behind the other and is scarce seem from Athens being also separated from the rest of Hymettus by a narrow Valley through which lieth the way from Athens to Capo Colonni But I remember not that I heard it called by the Athenians otherwise than Imet or T is Imettes Vouni that is Hymettus Mountain But the Francks call it Monte-Matto which is but another manifest Corruption of Mount Hymettus Lib VI Aristolochia Longê° ibd clematitis Lib. VI. Scoizanera bulbosa II. At another time we went to see the Sea-Coasts of Athens II. To the SEA-COASTS of ATHENS towards the Saronick Gulph and to survey the antient Harbours along that Shore So taking Horses we directed our Course to the Eastern Point of the Bay Phalara In our way about a couple of miles out of Town we passed through the Athenian Vineyards and came to the Eastern end of a Marshy Lake called by Xenophon Phalaraea Palus but now Tripyrga because there were as they say three Towers by it which probably were the ruines of the Town of Limne This Lake stretcheth it self in length at least three miles along the Shore and from the Eastern end of it runneth a little Rivulet into the Sea not far from the Eastern Point of the Bay of Phalara where stands a little ruined Church called St. Nicholo The place I believe was antiently called Colias Promontorium From this to the Western Point is about three miles to which we went continuing along the shore making a great circumference till we came where the Portus Phalareus was situate at the North-West corner of the bottom of the Bay and is called now only Porto There remains yet the little Harbour to be seen with part of the Walls that secured it But it is now chok'd up with the Sand and so shallow that only small Boats lye there Neither doth the Bay afford any secure Harbour as lying open to the South Easterly and Westerly Winds and Ships that drop Anchor there are forced to keep aâ— large for want of sufficient depth So that the Antients had very good reason to change their station for Ships from hence to Piraea Hard by are the ruines of the Town and Castle belonging to it being 〈◊〉 four miles from Athens Still coasting Westwards a mile or two we came to another Harbour called in times past Munichia which was then though but small yet a very good and secure Harbour but is now quite chok'd up and useless A little from the shore there are seen ruines of Vaults pieces of Pillars and hewn Stones under water and on the shore hard by are many more besides Caves digg'd in the Rocks Vaults Walls broken Pillars and the foundations of a Temple which we guessed to be that of Diana of Munichia Thence to the raines of Pitaea is but a little way I do not believe much above a quarter of a Mile going in a streight Line But going by the Sea-Coasts by reason of the crookedness of the Shore it may be neâ—â— two miles Which shews the errour of Ptolomy and our modern Geographers that follow him who make them at least ten miles distant from each other whereas indeed Phalara which is furthest off from Pâ—â—aea is not at most above four miles distant But the Shore indeed is almost formed into a Peninsula in the Neck of which Phalard lyeth to the East and Piraea to the West Portus Piraeus is called at present by the Greeks Porte-Dracone and by the Franks Porto-Lione PORTOLIONE by reason of a Lion of Marble of admirable work placed at the bottom of the Bay in a posture of sitting but erected upon his fore-feet It is ten foot high and by a hole pierced through it answering to its mouth appears to have been a Fountain There is such another in the way from Athens to Eleusis in a couchant
the ancients believed that Hercules made this Lake by turning the River Cephisus into the Plain of the Orchomeni whereas before his time it past into the Sea by Chanels under the Mountains I rather believe that Hercules stopped the 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the Passage under the Mountain which the Orchomeni opened again afterwards for that in Pausanias his own opinion seems very unlikely because the Orchomeni in the time of the Trojan Wars were the most potent and rich of all those parts of Greece But to me it seems altogether impossible for supposing the Cephisus had another way under ground than where the Lake stands which to me is no way probable Yet there are abundance of other streams falling from the Helicon and Parnassus sufficient to make this Lake and drown the Country without that But how ever this was I am sure the greatness and difficulty of the work was such that there was more need of an Army of Hercules's to have done it than of one single person to spoil it But by aid of which of the Gods or by what mean it was perform'd I find not I have seen none of the Roman Works greater nor any thing in nature or art more worthy of admiration From the Northmost of these Bayes where this Chanel entreth into the Mountain I observed that the highest point of Parnassus lay West-North-West Some part of the Helicon not covered by the Mountain Phoenicius or Sphingis West South and South-Westward of these two Bayes about six or seven Miles distant there is another Bay of the Lake divided from these by a Ridge or Promontory running out from the Mountain Ptoos which Ridge is now called Cocino from a Town on it of the same name Near or at the end of this Bay the Mountain which the ancients seem to call Phoenicius or Sphingis is joined to that of Cocino only there is one narrow slit between them which I judge can be no other than that only Passage of the Lake above ground into the Hylica palus mention'd by Strabo Lib. IX But at present no Water passeth that way above ground nor as I could perceive under ground yet there hath been an old Chanel under this gap that is tumbled in and now as far as I could guess quite stopped up This Gap or Passage was also cut thorough the hard Rock for a Mile or two to bring it to the Theban Lake which without doubt was the same with Hylica palus of the Ancients of which I will next give an account in its due place From these Catabathra as they call them or Chanels under-ground we were conducted about three or four Miles South-Westwards up to the Village Cocino COCINO on the Ridge of the Mountain that bears the same name Hard by it I was shewed some ruined Churches with two or three old Towns lying in the same condition among the ruins whereof were some few pieces of Antiquity Passing between these ruins and Cocino I observ'd a Spring in the Mountain that waters the whole Town The Inhabitants of this Village are all Albaneses and I believe I bely them not the whole place little better than a Nest of Thieves of which our Landlord was the Chief For at Midnight there was Intelligence brought him by some of his Gang that they had stollen a Horse desiring his advice how to dispose of it which our Guide understanding gave us notice thereof wishing us to stand on our Guard which we did keeping our Carabins close to our sides But our Guide I believe had made them well nigh as much afraid of us as we were of them For our Host having been very inquisitive to know of him who I was he made him believe as these Greeks never want invention to help themselves out at a dead lift that I was Scrivan or Secretary to the Captain Basha of the Negropont As to the ancient name of this place I can find no traces in ancient Authors to inform me The next Morning we parted from thence early and turning about the side of the Mountain whose top we always kept at our right hand in half in hours time we came to a narrow Passage between the Mountain Ptoos and this Ridge of it now called Cocino which gave us a fair prospect over the Lake of Thebes which so soon as I saw I alighted off my Horse and climb'd up to the highest point of Cocino to take the better prospect of it and Copais Lacus together finding them so near to each other which although it cost me no small quantity of the sweat of my Brows yet I found it well worth my pains For it gave me not only the prospect of both the Lakes together but of much of the Country about them I found the Catabathra on the other side of the Mountain North off me and the Theban Lake on the opposite side South The highest point of the Mountain over Thalanda North-West by West of Parnassus West-North-West The beginning of Helicon now called Zagara West where it joins with Cithaeron South-West Thence Southwards join Cithaeron and Parnes which divide Attica from Boeotia Hence I took the Scheme of both the Lakes as I have given you them in the Map Of Copais I have already spoken But of this of Thebes or Hylica Palus I shall now give you the Description This Lake is now called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the Theban Lake The Thebane Lake Hylica Palus but anciently Hylica palus It is much less than that of Copais and is inclosed with Mountains round about it It is distinguished from Copais North by the Mountain Cocino and West by the Mountain Phoenicius or Sphingis between which two it had formerly Communication with Copais as I before said but now I could find none The Mountain Ptoos lyeth North-East of it Mount Hypatus between it and Thebes South and South-East between which it findeth its way into the Sea Northward of the Euripus But whether wholly above-ground I am not able to determine From this Hill it seems like the leaf of some Plant whereof its several Bayes are the divisions of the leaf and the Chanel that runs Eastward out of it looks like the stem It seems not more long than large and is about four or five Miles over Great part of the Lake was then covered with all sorts of Wild-Fowl and they say 't is full of Fish notwithstanding they tell a story that every thirtieth or one and thirtieth Year it is quite dried up From what hath been said those that have good skill in the Greek Tongue may be able to understand that very defective place in Strabo where he speaks of these two Lakes and restore it again When I returned again down the Mountain to my Guide I found my Caravochero almost in despair of my returning again safe to him fearing I had been set upon by some of the Albaneses of the Mountains But thanks be to God it was otherwise Descending therefore together from that
Merciful Hand of God towards us and therefore to Him as it was most just we gave the Praise who never faileth those that put their Trust in Him Not far from hence we began to turn the Promontory of the Mountain if I may so call it upon whose high Clifts I saw the Ruins of a Castle and lost the River Caister until we came to a narrow Valley between two Mountains where again we recovered the River and passed it over by a Stone-Bridge about a couple of Miles from the Castle of Ephesus where we arrived a little before it was dark Campus Ephesius Lib III Fig VI. 1 the Bridg. 2 the Castle 3 the Aqueduct 4 St JohsÌ„ Church 5 the place of a Theator 6 grottos of the Sleepers 7 ruins of a Church 8 St Johns fort 9 a Theator 10 Amphitheator Ephesus is built in a fine Plain EPHESUS stretched in length West-ward to the Sea I believe four or five Miles and may be in many places two at least broad so encompassed about with high Mountains and rocky Clifts on the North East and South sides in so just a proportion that I can fansie it resembleth nothing more than the Cirques and the Stadiums of the Antients It hath the Mountain Gallecius on the North-side from the Sea to the Passage through which the River Caister runs Parallel to that South it hath the Mountain Corresius if I guess right out of Strabo running from West to East and thence bending up circular fortifieth the East side as well as the South The River Caister runneth through it entring the Passage between the Mountains and leaving the City South of it after various windings and turnings through the Plain mixeth it self with the Sea near the Western Promontory of the South Mountain For the City was built on the South side the River principally upon two Rocks about half a Mile from each other The first is near the East end of the Plain whereon the Castle now standeth guarded by the Turks which seemeth to be of no older date than the later Greek Emperours being built of other more antient Ruins as the Fragments of more curious pieces of Marble carelesly mixed among the other Stones assured us Over the Gate of it are set three large Tables of Marble carved in Basso-relievo The first is quite defaced the middle one is of excellent Work The first Figure of it is a Horse with a Man lying under his feet who seemeth to have an antient Armenian Bonnet on his Head A little further is another Figure holding the foot of the first Man seeming to drag him along The next is a Woman in an humble Posture demanding somewhat of another Figure standing in a Roman Habit so that it seems to be some Roman Triumph but what it is uncertain Some have thought it to represent the Destruction of Troy and Hector drawn by the Chariot of Achilles but no Chariot is there to be seen Others That it represented the Persecution of the Primitive Christians under the Romans with less probability Further within this Gate on the Castle Wall we saw a Marble whereon is cut a Face representing the Moon with two Snakes one on one side of the Head and the other on the other joyning their Heads in the middle of the Crown and their Tails pointing outwards with each of them a Circle in such shape that they both together represent a Bow The Figure I designed there and did not perceive any thing of a Bow otherwise than as I described Which was to represent the Heathen Deity they called Hecate Triformis The Moon in the Heavens represented by the large round Visage Proserpine in Hell represented by the Snakes and Diana upon Earth by the Bow Lib III ΠΑÎΗΓΥΡΙΠΚΑΙ ΑΤΕΛΕΙΟ ΕΧΕΙΡΙΑΣ ΕΙΣ ΟΛΟΠΤΟΠÎΥΜΟΠΤΗΣ ΘΕΟΥ ΜΕ Λ ÎΤΑ ΚΑΙ ΤΗΠΑΡΤΕΜΙΣΙ ΚΡΙΣΙΠΚΑΤΑΣΤΗΣΑÎΤΑ ΑΟΕΜΑΤΑ ΤΟΙΣ ΑΤΩÎΟΙΣ ΑΥΞΑΣΑÎΤΑ ΚΑΙ ΑÎΛΡΙ ΣΤΩΠÎΙΚΗΣΑÎΤΩΠÎΑΣ ΤΗ ΣΑÎΤΛ ΤΕΙΜΗΠΑÎΑΣΤΗΣΑÎΤΑ φΑΙÎΙΟΥ φΑΥΣ ΤΟΥ ΣΥÎΓΕÎΟΥΣ ΑΥΤΟΥ Coming into the Town North of this we found two or three Inscriptions half in the ground From one of them we could only learn the erecting of an Image to the Goddess Diana as the whole City was filled with her superstitious Worship And on the right hand of the way we left the ruins of an Aqueduct coming from the Eastern-hills to the Castle which as I understood by those that gave it me had this Inscription on it in Latin and Greek which was its Dedication to the Honour of Diana of the Ephesians to Augustus and Tiberius Caesars and to the City of Ephesus But my Companion mentions it about six Miles off on an Aqueduct near Scala Nova but undoubtedly he is mistaken for the Inscription it self although not well copied proveth it so For not knowing of any Inscription on it until we returned we contented our selves with a view of it at a distance But it being both in Latin and Greek comparing them together I have found the Errours of both and restored it thus DIANAE EPHE ET IMP. CAESARI AVG. ET TI. CAESARI AVG. ET CIVITATI EPHE SEXTILLIVS P. F. VOT POBLIO CVM OFILLIA A. F. BASSA VXORE SUA ET C. OFILLIO PROCVLO F. SVO CETERISQVE LEIBEREIS SVEIS PONTEM DE SVA PECVNIA FACIENDA CVRAVIT ΑΡΤΕΜΙΔΙ ΕΦΕΣΙΑ ΚΑΙ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΙ ΚΑΙΣΑΡΙ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΩΙ ΚΑΙ ΤΙΒΗΡΩΙ ΚΑΙΣΑΡΙ ..... ΥΙΩΙ ΚΑΙ ΤΩΙ Δ ΗΜΩΙ ΤΩΠΗΦΕΣΙΩΠΓΑΙΟΣ ΣΕΞΤΙΛΙΟΣ ΠΟΓΛΙΟΥ ΥΙΟΣ ΟΥΟΤΟΥΡΙΑ ΠΟΛΛΙΩΠΣΥΠΟΦΕΛΛΙΑ ΑΥΤΟΥ ΘΥΓΑΤΡΙ ΒΑΣΣΗΙ ΤΗ ΕΑΥΤΟΥ ΓΥÎαιΚΙ ΚΑΙ ΓΑΙΩΙ ΟΦΙΛιω ΠΡΟΚΥΛΩΙ ΕΑΥΤΟΥ ΥΙΩΙ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΙΣ ΛΟΙΠΟΙΣ ΤΕΚÎΟΙΣ ΤΗΠΓΕΦΥΡΑΠΕΚ ΤΩΠΙΔΙΩΠΑÎΕΘΗΚΕΠAll the Inhabitants of the once so famous Ephesus the Chief of this Asia as the Mistress governing the rest by the Residence of the Proconsul here amount not now to above forty or fifty Families of Turks living in poor thatched Cottages without one Christian among them EPHESUS now AJA-SABUCK They lie in a Knot together on the South-side of the Castle and are called now Aja-Sabuck St Johns Church now a Mosque Lib III. Fig VI The whole Face of the Earth about them is covered with Ruins fragment of Marble Pedestals Pillars and all parts of most antient and noble structure now broken maim'd and disunited I saw in the Street an Inscription almost defaced upon a Marble Sepulcher But that which most of all was the Object of our Curiosity in this part of the Town was the Church of St John the Evangelist which we desired to see and with much ado obtain'd of the scrupulous Keeper for half a Dollar for my self and Monsieur Spon passing for my Scrivan or Clerk which he might then easily do having his Pen and Ink in his Hand and for this Device we were beholding to our Armenian This Church is now sacrilegiously turned into a Mahumetan Mosque It stands on the West-side of the Castle and is no extraordinary Edifice It hath a Court on the North-side and is a long Building standing East and West covered with a double Roof
Sepulchral Monuments The next Morning early we parted thence and after about three hours riding came to a desolate Church but kept in repair by the Villages about it every one of which have an Olive Tree planted by it I suppose to serve for Oyl for the Lamps in the Church Before the Church at the West end of it is the Tomb of the Founder of the Church upon which among the Stones is an ancient Basso-relievo of a Woman in a sedent posture Here groweth the biggest Lentiscus Tree I ever saw Out of several places of the Body of it Tears of Mastick Issued Which convinced me that not only at Scio but in all these parts they would yield Mastick if they were cultivated I guess also that hereabouts the Town Anaphylista was situated if not at the Town following to which after an hour and a halfs riding thence Southward we came being called Kerateia from the Karobs of which I saw several Trees growing wild This hath been an ancient and great City and did preserve it self considerable until destroyed by the Corsairs about fifty or threescore years ago They had their Epitropi or Archontes until then who did wear High-crown'd Hats like those of Athens I could discern here where an Amphitheater had been by the Foundations and some other remains of it In the Church I found an Inscription which I believe would have given me some light concerning the Antiquity of the place had it been better preserv'd From this place we were three long hours before we arriv'd at Promontorium Sunium the way being very rocky and bad up-hill and down-hill all along About midway we past over a little Mountain where in times past they digged much Silver and now some Copper out of which they say the Goldsmiths of Athens at present separate a considerable quantity of Silver LAURIUM But they let not the Turks know so much lest the Grand Signior should impose the Slavery of digging in the Mines upon them I saw abundance of Cinders lying up and down in the wayes which assured me that in times past they had digg'd great quantities of Metals there Xenophon calls this Mountain Laurium Pausanias and many other Authors mention it But whether there was a Town called by the same name I know not But if so it was done by Xenophons Counsel who advised them to build a Castle there lest the Mines should be neglected in time of War But if before I believe it was nearer the Sea-side where there is a kind of Harbour for Boats to pass over to Macronisa Promontorium Sunium is now called by the Francks Capo Colonni from the White Pillars of the Temple of Minerva PROM SUNIUM or CAPO COLONNI that yet remain on the point of it being seen a great way from Sea The Temple is situated on the top of an high Rock running far into the Sea Nine Dorick Pillars are standing on the South-West side of it and five on the opposite side At the South end remain two Pilasters and part of the Pronaos upon which are Engraven many names ancient and modern The Temple seems to have been inclosed in a Castle by the Foundations of the Walls below which are other Foundations of Walls which were undoubtedly the Town Sunium which was reckoned one of the 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or Burgess-Towns of the Athenians On the right hand it hath a little Bay which was its ancient Port But it is now quite deserted as well as the little Island Patroclea lying about a quarter of a Mile South-West off it They say here grows some Ebany yet but much destroyed by the Corsairs Whence it is that some call this place Ebanonisi or the Isle of Ebany Others call it still Patroclea but most call it Guidronisa The bad weather this day was a great prejudice to the good Prospect I otherwise should have had from hence of most of the Islands of the Archipelago notwithstanding which I observed with my Compass as followeth 1. The further end of Macronisa anciently called Helena North-East the hither end East 2. Zea one end East the other South-East 3. Thermia beginneth South-East endeth South-South-East 4. Seriphanto or Seripho a little more South-South-East 5. Antimilo South by East 6. Sant Georgio de Albero south-South-West 7. Capo Schillo or Promontorium Schillaeum West-South-West 8. The highest point of Aegina West North-West 9. I found a shrub growing hereabouts which hath Leaves and smell something like Stoechas Arabica But not so strong The Flowers then blowen were like Rosemary I keep it dried but I have not yet found what to call it We were forced to return on our way back again from the Promontory that Evening because we could have neither Meat Drink nor Lodging near that place We directed our course therefore more towards the Shore of the Saronick Gulph than we did at our coming and that Evening came to some Shepherds belonging to the Convent of Pendely where with all the Covert they had we could scarce sit dry it was such bad weather and our Inn being only a Tent made of a Hedge o◠Faggots covered with some Blankets over them Not far from thence toward the Sea is a Town situated upon a Hill METROPIS called Metropis which were probably the Azenenses Strabo placeth next before the Promontory Sunium The next Morning we parted early and after ten or a dozen Miles riding we came to the Ruins of a Town built on a Rock called Enneapyrgae or Nine Towers from so many Towers formerly standing on the Rock This is near a Bay of the Gulph which I believe was anciently called Hyphormus Portus and the Town it self 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Lampra Maritima or Inferior For there was another Lampra called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or Superior which without doubt was the ruin'd Town about three or four Miles more towards the Midland called yet Lambra for so the Greeks pronounce 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is LAMER π after μ as we do b. At this last we sate down and dined and after Dinner we kept on something North-Westwards thorough a good and well cultivated Plain to two or three Houses in the Fields they call Fillia The distance from Athens and resemblance of the name makes me believe it was hereabouts the ancient Phlya stood which in times past was a place adorn'd with many Temples especially of Diana Lucifera if Pausanias does not confound it with 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Phyla on Mount Parnes where also was an Altar to Diana 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 dedicated by Thrasibulus when in a dark Night he was conducted to Munichia by a light he attributed to Diana at that time when he went to deliver the City from the thirty Tyrants the Spartans had then imposed upon the Athenians Thence we turned yet a little further North-Westwards and came into the way to Athens passing between two Ridges of the Mountain Hymettus that on the left hand being
the more particular in my Observations of it and shall give the best account of it I can Which that I may do to be the better understood I shall first give an account of the situation of the Lake and the Plain in which it is stagnated and then of the several Passages out of the Water of the Lake into the Euboean Sea This Lake is now called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the Lake of Livadia but by Strabo Copais and by Pausanias Cephissis It is situate on the North-side of that large Plain which is call'd by the same name of Livadia which is stretched out between the Plain of Thebes and the Town Livadia the whole Perimeter of which Country and Lake is so encompassed with high Hills and Mountains so joined one to another that there is not so much as space for the many streams and torrents that arise under and fall from them to pass out above ground into the Sea So that had not the Wisdom of the Creator provided at several places certain subterraneous Passages as Chanels to receive and suck in the Waters which in so great abundance at times do flow and pour down these Mountains and were not those Chanels either by nature or art and industry of men kept open and cleansed all Boeotia must necessarily in a short space of time be drowned and made nothing but a great Lake or standing Water For beginning first at Parnes that Mountain is join'd to Cithaeron Cithaeron is join'd to Helicon Helicon to Parnassus Parnassus to Mount Oeta that to Cnemis Cnemis to the Cyrtonum Mons That to Ptoos Ptoos to Messapius Messapius to Cerycius and that again to Parnes Which Mountains although all or most of them be well enough distinguished from each other by certain Chasms or Openings between them yet are they all so tacked and link'd together by High-Grounds that before the Waters could find Passage any way into the Sea above ground the whole Country below them must unavoidably be drowned which perhaps was one great reason of Deucalions Flood in which these parts seem chiefly concerned But beside this Circle of Mountains that encompass all Boeotia Phocis and great part of Locris there are other Mediterranean Mountains also which are tacked to one another in such sort that they divide the whole Country into several particular Vallies which from a high prospect look as if they were those places in the Earth the Gyants laid open when in their War with the Gods they plucked up Mountains by the Roots and set them upon one another intending to scale Heaven thereby For so is this Plain of Livadia divided from that of Thebes Eastward by the Mountain Phoenicius or Sphingis which joins Northwards to the Mountain Ptoos Southwards to certain Ridges which descend from Helicon From those high Mountains Helicon South-West Parnassus and Oeta North-West are poured down those quantities of Waters into this Plain which stagnating make the great Lake of Livadia by falling towards the Ridge of the Rocky Hills of Thalanda or Cyrtonum Mons against which the whole stress and fall of the Waters seems to lean but are by them as by a mighty Mound or Bank kept in from discharging themselves into the Euboean Sea Strabo counts this Lake no less than three hundred seventy one Stadia in Circumference which amounts to about forty seven Miles and a half But I believe it covers not so much ground at present For then in his time it had one passage out above ground into Hylica palus now called the Theban Lake But now the Waters are far lower than that Passage and therefore are to be thought very much abated The form of this Lake is long being stretched out under the Mountains of Thalanda or Cyrtonum Mons North-West and South-East as far as the Mountain Ptoos In the middle it is narrow but then enlarging it self again until it comes to be divided at the South-East end into three several Bayes At the two Northmost of these Bays are the principal Chanels in a wonderful manner pierced through the Mountains The whole mass whereof consists of a very hard stone considerably high and of a great extent in thickness though in some places it be greater and in others less the shortest Passage to the Sea being towards Thalanda and the North-West end of the Lake is at least four Miles through the Mountain Where this enters in under the Mountain is a Town called Palea situate towards the north-North-West end of the Lake where it riseth again on the other side near the Sea are those Mills I but now spake of about two hours riding from Thalanda This seems to be the place which Strabo calls Anchoe where the Town of Copais was also situated that gave the old name to this Lake and by the same rule on the Sea side where the Waters come out of the Lake should lye Larimna Superior or that of Locris where Strabo makes the Chanels to pass thirty Stadia or about four Miles under ground from Copais to Larimna The other Chanels I saw on the North-West end of the Lake are all a much greater distance from the Sea many of them passing at least half a days Journey under the Mountain Ptoos The Northmost of the two Bayes last mentioned divides it self again into three Bayes the first of which entreth under the Mountain by two Chanels the second and third by three Chanels apiece Another Bay also there is that divideth it self into many other little Bays and those again into Chanels Insomuch that I easily believe what an Albanese I met there told me to wit that there were at least fifty of these under-ground Chanels whereby the Lake emptieth it self into the Sea For I saw above half the number of them my self From Proscina hither a considerable part of our way lay along one of those Chanels in several places of which we saw holes down to it but could neither see nor hear the Water as it passed by reason the Chanel was every where close covered and much deeper When we came to ascend the steeper part of the Mountain we passed by ten or a dozen square Stone-Pits about a Furlong distant one from another which I found still deeper and deeper according to the rising of the Mountain until by the sound of the Stones I cast in I could not judge them less than fifty Fathom deep but I heard no sound of Water at the bottom The reason whereof I found because the Chanel which carries the Water lyeth covered deeper under them They are about four foot square a piece at the Mouth and cut out of the hard Rock of the Mountain From all which I began to be sensible of the vast labour cost and indefatigable industry that brought the whole work to such perfection For by such Pits as these the rest of the fifty Chanels were first made if made at all and are now upon occasion cleansed when ever they happen to be obstructed Pausanias saith that
which are yellow Flowers set on the top of a Stalk like those of wild Lotus after which succeed little Cods with Seed in shape much resembling Caterpillars turn'd round together when touch'd 2. Limonium reticulatum This is a little Limonium which hath very small Leaves close to the ground but sends out several Branches a handful or two high divided and formed into many small Twigs that it much resembles a Net Whether it hath any Flower succeeding it I did not find 3. Syderitis Spinosa 4. Sicordica legitima Clusii 5. Beupleurum angustifolium 6. Prunella flore albo 7. Centaurium minus flore albo White-flower'd Centaury 8. Nasturtium marinum 9. Herniaria 10. Draba Siliquosa Caerulea Cretica 11. Doricnium Narbonense 12. Doricnium Congener Like the other only it is a shrub and perennial 13. Convolvulus rectus argenteis foliis or Cantabrica Plinii It is a small Plant of two handfuls high set here and there with narrow Silver-colour'd Leaves and on the top hath reddish Flowers like the ordinary Convolvulus 14. Polium Creticum 15. Pentaphyllium rectum Agrimoniis foliis 16. Asclepias flore albo and many others which I omit because I had observ'd them before in other places of France and Italy Hard by this Island upon the shore of Istria is Ruigna situated upon a little Peninsula and inhabited altogether by Sea-men who are most of them profess'd Pilots and for their encouragement all Ships whether Venetians or Strangers are obliged to touch there and to take a profess'd Pilot of this place to Steer them over the Flats that are before the entrance into the Venetian Harbours which are very difficult and dangerous I heard the Pilot say that conducted the Vessel I return'd in that it had sometimes but half a Foot and sometimes not above an Inch of Water below its Keel Ruigna hath a very good and secure Haven and that by nature without the help of Art The Country about it is fruitful in excellent Wines and Oyl which may be the reason that there are so many decrepit persons there strong Wine being the producer of Gouts and Sciatica's The Women wear Fardingals here after the Spanish fashion The Town is not big but seems populous and is a Bishop's see Lib. j. I. fig The next day early we parted from St. Andrè but the Sea running high although there was but little Wind which the Mariners told us was usual in those Seas about the Change of the Moon as then it was we put in at Pola about ten Miles from St. Andrè IMP. CAESARI SEPTIMIO SERVERO .. H ... PIO FELICI INVICTO AUG RESP. POL. D.N.M.E. Pola is one of the most ancient Cities of Istria Pola situated at the farther end of a little Bay which makes a most secure and spacious Port every way Land-lock'd But those that look upon the small number of its Inhabitants at present scarcely amounting to seven or eight Hundred would hardly credit its former greatness without such eminent Marks of its Antiquity as still remain That it hath been a Free-State or Commonwealth we found upon the Pedestal of a Statue of the Emperour Severus whereon is engraven the Dedication by Respublica Polensis or the Commonwealth of Pola The marks of its greatness are its Amphitheater Triumphant-Arch and Temple dedicated to Rome and Augustus Caesar Authors agree not concerning its first beginning The Poet Callimachus affirms it was a Colony of Cholcis who pursued the Argonauts by Sea whom having lost in the pursuit and not daring to return to their King they voluntarily banished themselves their Country and planted this Wherefore their City was called Pola which signifieth if we may believe Strabo a banished people Nor can they agree what way they took to come to this place Some will have it that they came by the Euxin-Sea up the Danube formerly called Ister which made them give the name of Istria to the Country they came to inhabit and that they afterwards sail'd in the Adriatick-Sea with the same Vessels a thing impossible unless they carried them upon their shoulders the Danube having no communication with the Venetian-Gulph Yet that they were a Colony of some of the Graecians may be concluded from their main money still coyned with the name of their Country in Greek Letters of which I have seen several but especially one of undoubted antiquity in the curious Collection of the Earl of Peterborough c. which hath stamped on the one side two young faces reversed to each other and on the other an Eagle preying on a Dolphin with these Letters circumscrib'd ΙΣΤΡΙΗΑ Istriea Med. 1 2. But however the Antiquities that now remain are of no ancienter date than the Roman Emperors as they themselves testifie The chief of them are these First the Temple of Augustus the front of which is sustained by four Corinthian Pillars of a curious speckled Marble and upon the Architrave is the Dedication written viz. CIT AUGUSTO CAESARI DIVI F. III. VIRI TRIBUNIC POTEST To Rome and Augustus Caesar as before said There is also the ruins of another hard by and the Dome or Cathedral Church seemeth to be built upon another by the ruins about it and ancient Stones compiled in the building The Font for holy Water hath been an ancient Fountain of white Marble four square At each side the Water flowed over and made a pretty Cascade descending by several degrees first running over Nimphs on the two opposite sides and two Scallop-shells on the other two opposite The Triumphal-Arch was built in honour of one Caius Sergius by his Wife Salvia Posthuma and was adorned with his and others of the Families Statues as may be judged by the form of it It is of the Corinthian-order of White Marble But is now become only the East-gate to the Town though formerly one of the Principal Ornaments thereof The Amphitheater is without the Town northwards and wants much of the Greatness either of that of Rome or that of Verona It is of the Tuscan-order and is judged to have had no other seats within than of wood Beside these we found some Sepulchral-Monuments of lesser note which if they be thought worth it I shall make publick hereafter It hath a Cittadel upon a Rock within the Walls but inconsiderable for strength It hath plenty of Provisions and good Water The long slip of Rocks South of it though barren enough is notwithstanding stored with many curious Plants These I observed 1. Acacia Poetarum 2. Crista galli flore purpureo 3. Trifolium Saxatile Hirsutissimum 4. Genista Montana Arborescens 5. Polygala recentiorum 6. Leucoium Patavinum 7. Pentaphyllon incanum that which Gerard gives for this hath but three leaves but this hath five 8. Cordilium Creticum 9. Secoridaca flore albo c. On Saint John Baptist's day in the morning we tried to get out of the Harbour but the Wind being contrary and higher than we thought while we were in that calm Port we were forced to
passage and cut all their throats without his knowledge It was assaulted from the West-side where upon a little rising-ground under the adjacent Mountains they raised their Battery They say that it did formerly belong to the Emperour of Germany and was built by a Queen of Hungary Since the Venetians had it they have blown up part of the Rock on the North-side to make it yet more unaccessible Other Walls it hath none but the Rocks and some few Mounds of Earth without any regularity On the top which is very narrow but long I perceived some old Foundations of Walls which with an Inscription or two that we saw after at Trau brought from hence made us believe that it was a place of Antiquity A Bow-shot from hence Northwards we entred the Grand Signiors Dominions There are two Companies of Foot and half a Troop of Horse that guard this Castle But the greatest part of these commonly quarter at Spalatro now they have Peace only a sufficient number is left here to keep Guard They have no Water but what falls from Heaven or is brought up to them with much labour from a Fountain in the Village under the Castle Another day we went to see a Convent that lieth North-West of the Town situate at the bottom of a little Bay of the Sea It is called Madonna di Paludi or our Lady of the Marshes It hath a pretty Church and pleasant Gardens I think the Fathers are of the Order of Saint Antonio of Padua Some time after we took a walk towards the West Promontory of the Haven and passed along the Coast two or three miles First by a Convent of Greek Monks whose Church is dedicated to Saint Hierome and a good way further towards the Cape or Lands-End of this little Territory is a small Fort not considerable which serveth for no other use than a Watch-Tower Returning we made towards a Rocky Mountain Northwards thorough very pleasant Groves of Olives that covered us from the heat of the Sun which would otherwise have been very troublesome from its reflection upon those Rocks in such direct rays Here we climbed up to a Hermitage cut in the Rock which had two or three pretty Cells but not very cleanly Nearer the Town I clambered up a high Rock that commands it to take a prospect of it with my Pencil where I began to wish that I had had more skill to have designed one of the most delightful places that I had ever seen This Rock amongst others yieldeth great plenty of Aster Verbasci foliis Jacea incana or Argentea of Prosper Alpinus in his Exoticks And in the Plains thereabouts are these following 1. Medica Variegata 2. Lotus Odoratus 3. Harminum Creticum 4. Leucoium Patavinum 5. Thlaspi Meclinense 6. Libanotis Ferruli facie 7. Satureia citreo odore perhaps Tragoriganum or Saturei legitima 8. Aster Montanus folio odorato forsan Aster Montanus luteus glabro Salicis folio Bauhinus 9. Linum flore luteo 10. Genista Minor Spinosa 11. Horminum flore purpureo 12. Convolvulus argenteus Minor 13. Hieratium flore incarneo 14. Pruenella Variegata 15. Miagrum 16. Drabae species exiguo folio purpurascente 17. Anchusa Matthioli flore pallido 18. Centaurium luteum non perfoliatum forsan Luteum pusillum Bauhini 19. Cichorium Verucario semine sive Chendrillae Verrucaria J. B. 20. Libanctis Foeniculi facie 21. Satureia Vulg or Savoury 22. Thlaspi Saxatile folio Casiae poetarum 23. Scabiosa flore albo 24. Caucalis Platiphylla Fab. Column Mr. Mart. forsan Nodosa Echinato semine B. P. 25. Caucalis magno flore fructu forsan Caucalis tenuifolia Montana B. P. Growing upon the Steeple here and on other hard Walls I found a Plant which I knew not how to call unless Equisetum Frutescens It is a Perennial-Plant which hath a weak long and slender Branch in colour and substance like ordinary White Jessamine and without leaves full of joynts at about an Inch distance from each other out of each of which in the fashion of ordinary Horse-tail round the joynt grow other Branches that run out a great length and are joynted like the first Stalk Out of each joynt come little yellowish scaly knobs by pairs like that on the top of Horse-tail but less In a Microscope it looketh something like a Hop between whose Scales issue forth three or four little flowers with four leaves or knobs apiece Whether this bears any fruit I know not At Troy I found another Plant differing only from this that That was Arborescens and This Frutescens The Noble Venetian that there Commanded as Count of this place was called Francesco Lauredano who had been Proveditour of Cerigo He shewed us some Pillars which he brought from thence which look like Transparent Marble but they are but Congelations of Water that petrifie in the Grotts of that Island Great part of this Town follow the Greek Religion Lib j. Fig VII TRAGVRIVM Having yet time to spare Tran. we hired a Boat and went to Trau accounted thirteen miles by Sea and eighteen or twenty by Land Westward of Spalatro We passed in a Channel between the shore and the long Scoglio or little Isle Bua to the western-Western-end of which it is joyned by a Stone-bridg and to the Firm-Land by a Woodden one So that it is now an Island whatever it was anciently and is surrounded by the Sea although its learned Historian Joanni Lucio proveth that it was formerly a Peninsula and that the Channel that now separateth it from the Land is done by art and not by nature against Strabo and Ptolomy to whom it was known by the name of Tragurium The situation is very pleasant having good Gardens on the Land Northwards and a handsome Bourg on the Scoglio South The Dome is well built and ancient The Chappel on the North-side is set round with Statues of which those of Saint Peter and Saint Paul are good But the chief reason that made us take this days Voyage was to see a Manuscript that hath made much noise among the Learned concerning its Antiquity to wit the fragment of Petronius Arbiter which was wanting to his Works Because for some ages this piece had not been seen it was held to be but the fruit of the brain of some ingenious person who had tried to imitate Petronins his Stile Among others Monsieur Valois was one that esteemed it fictitious But Signior Lucia and the Abbot Gradi at Rome were of the contrary opinion the first of whom had undoubtedly seen the Manuscript Trau being his native Country The Manuscript is in the hands of Dr. Statelius a man of parts and learning but sickly not a young man as Monsieur Valois stiles him with more pride than good manners for he is near Threescore years old and a grave and sober person who it may be thinks it not worth his pains to answer Monsieur Valois whose arguments can be but of little force against the credit of sight
The Remarks that I made of it are these The Manuscript hath Tibullus Catullus and Propertius at the beginning and not Horace as the Preface to the Padua-Edition affirmeth In Propertius is to be noted the Cognomen Nautae that Scaliger taketh notice of in his Notes After these followeth in the same hand and on the same sort of paper eaten alike by the Worms on the corners of the Margent Petrontus Arbiter as it is printed whose Title written in red Letters is as followeth Petronius Arbiter Petronii Arbitri Satyri fragmentum ex Labro Quinto Decimo Sexto Decimo In which among others the Coena Trimalcionis is very amply related as it is printed at Padua and in Holland After which in a more modern hand is written Claudian Dr. Statelius made us also take notice that at the end of Catullus which is of the Book pag. 179. at the lower corner of the Margent the corner of which is eaten off with the Worms with several other leaves is the Date written in the same ancient hand with the P. Arbiter Thus 1423.20 Nobr Chapt. 6. Vers 200. Here we waited on Signior Dragatzo Doctor of the Law an ingenious and civil person also who shewed us in his Garden and other places about the Town half a dozen of ancient Roman Inscriptions which he would have made a present of to us could we have had convenience to have transported them Hence we returned again to Spalatro the same evening The Embassadour being weary of the Sea by that time he arrived at Spalatro resolved to make the rest of his Journey by Land to the Grand Signior's Court which was then at Adrianople But the Gallies that accompanied him and carried the Presents which the State makes by every Embassadour to the Port and his other Baggage proceeded as far as Corfu Therefore so soon as the Horses were come which were sent for four or five days Journey off in the Turkish Territories he departed by Land and we with the Galles for Corfu where they were to put all on board the Ships which waited there for that purpose July the Thirteenth on Sunday-morning by two a Clock after eleven days stay at Spalatro we parted and came by noon to Lesina which lieth Thirty miles from Spalatro LESINAE PORTUS L j. Fig VIII Lesina is the Isle Ptolomy calls Pharia Lesina and Strabo Pharos It is very high rocky and mountainous and by computation a hundred miles in circuit It hath a good Haven at the south-South-end where the Town is called by the name of the Isle It represents the Form of a Theater whereof the Town possesseth the place of the spectators yet appeareth most beautiful to those that enter the Area which is the Port being built in several degrees one above another according to the rising of the ground having a Cittadel on the top of a steep Rock backed with exceeding high Mountains It lies against the South and hath a Harbour secured from that Wind by the Roeks that lie before it They have beautified the Shore on each side with a good Mole made out of the Rocks which there are in too great plenty To conclude it hath good Moorage and is deep enough for Ships of any rate Here is very good Bread and Wine and good cheap I believe for our Captain touched here to furnish himself with Biscuit Their greatest Trade is Fishing of Sardelli which are like Anchovies and some think the same In May and June they are caught here and upon the Shore of Dalmatia near L'Isa South of this Isle in such abundance that they furnish all Parts of Italy and Greece with them The Turks take them as Physick when they are sick They follow a light and flock together about a Boat that carries it in the night and so are caught with great facility With no small difficulty I gat on the top of the highest Mountain that overlooketh the Town and was recompensed for my pains with an unbounded prospect Hence I discerned a Promontory near Zara which the Watch-men upon it assured me was a hundred miles off Hence Spalatro lies North Thirty miles and Lissa as much to the South Hence Ships Gallies Barques and other Vessels are discerned a vast way off by the Watch-men who give notice by signs to the Fort below how many what they are and which way they fail There are several good Buildings here especially the Domo and Town-house and in a word the situation is very agreeable In climbing up to the Fort and Mountain I observed among others these Plants 1. Aconitum Lycoctinum flore Delphinii which I took to be a kind of Monks-head 2. Aloe in flower 3. Asphodelus Min. Junci folio seu fistulosâ non bulbosâ radice 4. Malva Romana rubra or red Holihachs 5. Juniperus Major or Oxy-cedrus 6. Linaria tenui folio 7. Genista or Spartium septimum Bauhini as I believe It s Root is thick and of substance like Pimpinella out of which spring some half a dozen or more branches of a handful or two high without leaves of a light green colour and of a substance like Spanish-broom but beyond comparison less It still divides it self into three twigs sometimes one of those three points divides it self into three more That which makes me doubt whether it be this as Monsieur Merchaund of Paris hath named it is That the Root seemeth hot and of a spicy taste 8. Pilosella major pilosissima This Plant is very like to Great Mouse-ear in leaves and height being half a foot high or more and the leaves near as long But the hair is of such a prodigious length that it is to be wondred at being little less than an Inch long and very thick We parted hence after Dinner and arrived that evening at Curzola called by Strabo Corcyra Nigra This Island belonged formerly to the Republique of Ragusa and was taken from them by the Venetians by this pleasant stratagem The Venetians had a little Island called Saint Mark so near to Ragusa that it commanded the Town and yet nearer a little Rock that had no more plain ground on the top then would be sufficient to lay the Foundations of a little house Hither the Venetians upon some high disgust sent men one night that built a little Fort of Past-board painted of the colour of Earth which made it look like a strong Rampart and thereon planted Wooden Cannons to the great amazement of the Towns-people next morning which in effect put them into such a fright that they sent presently to parly and were glad to come off for the Island of Curzola in exchange of that pittiful Rock They stood for the Scoglio of Saint Mark also but the Venetians would not part with that And so they lost Curzola which is of great use to the Venetians who come hither often to mend and repair their Vessels the Island being well covered with Woods The Town is of the same name with the Island and situated upon a
whose Architrave is sustained by Corinthian Pillars of white Marble hath an Inscription shewing that it was built by the Emperour Jovianus after he was converted to the Christian Faith and had destroyed the Heathen Temples the meaning whereof in English is thus ΠΙϹΤΙΠΕΧΩΠΒΑϹΙΛΙΑΠΕΜΩΠΜΕÎΕ ΩΠϹΥÎΕ ΡΙΘΟΠΕΛΛΗÎΩΠΤΕΜΕÎΗ ΚΑΙ ΒΩΜΟΥϹ ΕΞΑΛΑΠΑΞΑϹ ϹΟΙ ΜΑΚΑΡ Î¥ ΨΙΜΙΔΟΠΤΟΠΔΙΕΡΟΠΕΚΤΙϹΑ ÎΗΟΠΧΕΙΡΟϹ ΑΠΟÎΤΙΔΑÎΑϹ ΤΟΒΙΑÎΟϹ ΕΔÎΟΠΑÎΑΚΤΙ J. Jovian having received the Faith Established the Kingdom of my Power and having destroyed the Heathen Temples and Altars have built to thee O thou blessed and most high King a holy Temple a gift of an unworthy hand It is built much after the ancient Greek fashion with a Dome in the middle and a Porch for the Catechumeni The other Church is built much after the former manner and hath an Inscription on it which Monsieur Spon thinketh to have been made about the sixth Century Count Marmero hath taken the pains to transcribe and interpret it It sheweth that it was built by one Stephanus Bishop of the place for the remission of his Sins On the South-West side of Paloeopoli about two or three miles off is a Plain well watered with several Brooks of fresh water which make the soil fruitful It is judged to have been the Gardens of Alcinous King of this place famous in Homer It is called now by the Virtuosi Chrysida and by the Country people Pezamili from some Mills that are there Here we were full of Homer especially his relation of the Kings daughter Nausica's adventure who going to Bathe her self with her Attendants met with Ulysses cast upon that shore by a Storm My Comerade telleth us Med. 12.13 that he had seen a Medal of this brave Dame at Balogna which he hath caused to be engraven as a great rarity I have therefore thought it worth the copying also The Inhabitants of Corfu are of a very revengeful nature never forgetting any injury done them which is often the ruin of whole Families For they espouse the quarrels of their Relations from generation to generation and persecute them till one of the Parties and sometimes both be utterly extinct They themselves confess and relate most barbarous adventures of this nature that have happened in the Island One I remember though not the names of the Actors of that Tragedy There happened a quarrel between two families upon no great occasion at first but at last was brought up to such a height that several persons were killed on both sides especially on his side who was the principal party offended This man dying left only a young Son to whom when he came to age several years after it was proposed that he should Marry a daughter of his Fathers enemy that so all differences might be ended and a lasting Peace made between the two families After much sollicitation he agreed to it so that a Dowry was concluded on and Married they were with a great deal of seeming joy But not long after having carried his new-married Wife home to his house and having thither invited her Parents Sisters Brothers and other Relations of hers he perswaded them to stay all night and barbarously Murder'd every one of them Wife and all After we knew what Ships were determined to go to Constantinople we went and waited on the General to desire his favour that we might have passage in one of them They were in all six Sail whereof Two Men of War and a Merchant-man were bound for Constantinople and the other Three Men of War no further than Tine thither to carry a new Proveditor The General after a very civil Conference gave us Warrant to Embarque on the Guerriera Constante being now informed that we were Gentlemen and that it was meerly curiosity that made us so inquisitive The Twenty-first of July we went on board and set sail for Zant but the Wind being contrary and having but little Sea-room between the Island and the Continent our Boats were so short that we made little or no way until the Third day The Wind then tacking about to the North we soon got out and doubled the Southern Cape of the Island beyond which there are some Flats and Rocks by it above water called Paxo and Antipaxo by the Venetians but by Sanson Pascu c. Afterwards we left the Island Saint Mauro and beyond that Cephalonia the chief Island of Ulysses his Dominions of which before I say any thing more Monsieur Spon must give me leave to correct an error or two he hath committed concerning Corfu comparing it with Cephalonia where he says Afterward we passed in sight of the Island of Cephalonia twice as big as that of Corfu For that hath about an hundred and forty miles in circuit and this not above seventy Whereas Count Marmero sheweth that Pliny counted Corfu Ninety-seven miles long as he supposes taking the Island Paxo with it now distant from Corfu ten miles and he at present reckons it about seventy miles in length and twenty broad at the North-West end and ten at the South-East Whence he concludeth it a hundred and eighty miles about But his Map added and published with his Book if measured by his Scale maketh it eighty miles long and from thence ten to Paxo which Scoglio perhaps makes the other seven mentioned by him However I do agree that Cephalonia is the bigger Island for although it be not much longer than Corfu it is as wide again Cephalonia is fruitful in Oyl and excellent Wines CEPHALONIA especially red Muscatels which we call Luke Sherry and in those Grapes whereof Currans are made that yield considerable profit The place of residence of the Proveditor is Argostoli where there is a large Port every way Land-lock't but hath no good Anchoridge At the mouth of the Port indeed is another Village called Luxuri but not many Curran-Merchants reside there as he saith for Zant is the place of their ordinary Residence where they come yearly to buy up the Currans to transport A little while since here happened a kind of Civil War between two families They made a faction of fifty or threescore of a side who gave combat to each other and fought as bloodily as Turks would do against Christians The Venetian Governours had not power enough to appease the quarrel But after they were weary they made peace upon condition that the one party should not enter into the others quarters on pain of death There is a Harbour on the East-side of the Island where we cast Anchor upon our return from Zant to Venice It is called Pescarda proper only for little Vessels There is to be seen here a little ruined Village where nothing now remains but a small Church and some few Caloyers Over against Pescarda is the Isle Thiaki separated from it only by a Streight of three or four miles over for which reason some call it Little Cephalonia The likeness of its name hath made it be
above four or five times bigger than Nature and no less than a Colossus for the shoulders are six foot broad and the remaining parts of the body proportionable The beauty of it is such that I am apt to believe if Michael Angelo had seen it he would have admired it as much as he did that Trunk in the Vatican at Rome It stood upon his Pedestal upright until about three years ago as Signior Georgio our Landlord at Micone informed me an English-man who was there call'd as he said Signior Simon Captain of the Saint Barbara endeavoured to carry it away but finding it impossible he brake off its head arms and feet and carried them with him But here I must observe that my Note differs from Monsieur Spon's Tom. 1. p. 180. who saith it was a Venetian A little further among these Ruins we found the half body of a Woman the Drapery about which was carved so well that it seemed to be the work of no less a Master than the former Just by this was the body and forepart of a Centaure so admirably well cut also that life and vigour appear'd in every Vein and Muscle Upon his back appear'd a place cut as we suppose to set a sedent Figure in whence we judged that it might have been the Centaure Nessus who would have committed a Rape on Deianira which was no improper Ornament to this Temple Centaurs being consecrated to Apollo as is to be seen in many Medals especially of Gallienus one of which I found at Smyrna of a mixed Metal whose reverse hath a Centaure holding a Globe in its right hand pierced behind with a Dart and these Letters about it APOLLINI CONS AUG Not far from these we found other Fragments one piece was the head and neck of an Horse another which seemed to belong to the same part of the Bodie of a Horse with a Fragment of a sedent Figure of a Woman from the feet almost to the wast upon it the hinder part of the Figure ending like a Fish with scales I cannot well determin whether the upper part of the Woman I before mentioned belongeth to the Centaure or this These all seem to have been the Ornaments of the walls of the Temple and of the same manner of work in entire Relievo Here are seen also four other pieces which we guessed to have been of the Lyons that the Neighbouring Islanders remember to have seen formerly here On the South corner at the West end of these ruins where perhaps was the entrance of the Temple is a great piece of Marble hollow in the middle and almost buried in the ground which perhaps was part of the pedestal of the Gigantique Statue of Apollo because on the one side are these Letters ÎΑΞΙΟΙ ΑΠΟΛΛ which denote that it had been dedicated by those of the Island Naxos to Apollo The Letters on the other side we could not well tell what to make of but-upon consideration they seem to me to be Vulgar Greek From the Temple of Apollo directing our steps Southward and near the Western shore of the Island we came to the Ruins of a wonderful Portico of Marble whose vast Architraves Pillars and other the beautiful parts Bury each other in as great confusion as time and bad Fortune could reduce them to Upon one of the Architraves broken in two pieces we sound these Letters of a span deep ΒΑΖΙΛΕΩΣ ΦΙΛΛΙΠΠSignior Crescentio remembers he saw on a Fragment of the same Architrave ΜΑΚΕΔ which sheweth that Philip of Macedon was its Founder Further upon a little eminence among other Marbles we found these Letters also upon an Architrave ΔΙΟÎΥΣΙΟΥ ΕΥΤΥΧΟΥ Dionysius the Son of Eutyches another Grecian King The Pillars were Angular towards the Base and channel'd upwards being of several pieces and of the Corinthian order as appeared by their chapetes of which we found only three or four Not far from the South end of this Portique and on the West side of a little rocky Mountain which undoubtedly was the Mount Cynthus is a Theater It is something more than a Semicircle whose Diameter comprehending the seats and utmost wall is about two hundred Foot on each side without its Circumference are the Foundations of a Tower Thirty Foot long and Eighteen broad Before the Scene are eight or nine Vaults in a row answering Parallel to the Diameter of the Theater separated from each other by a wall in which is a little Arch serving for a passage from one to another These some of us took for Cisterns to hold water and others for Caves to keep wild Beasts in used to be baited in the Theaters of the Ancients somewhat resembling our Bear-gardens The whole Fabrick is of white Marble and each Stone on the outside cut in the form of a Diamond In the place of the Spectators there are some seats still remaining The whole Theater leaneth on a hill part of which seemeth to be dug away to make room for it Lab. j Fig XIII Mount Synthus the Caste of Delos From the Theater Eastwards passing over a world of Ruins we began to ascend the high Rock called anciently Mount Cynthus Which can be called high only in respect of the other hills in this Island and not in respect of the circumjacent Isles which are beyond proportion higher It is very craggy and steep and consists of a Granate Marble of several colours some reddish mixed with black others lighter other some yellowish with black spots and some a light grey It is very hard but I doubt endureth not the weather so well as that of Egypt For the Pillars at the Schools I but now mentioned seem to be of the same stone and are very much scaled by the weather This makes me doubt whether all the Pillars that are seen in so many places be of the Granate of Egypt For although Monsieur Spon took no notice where any stone hath been dug out of it yet I believe the way up the Mountain which is deep broad and winding was the quarry where much of that Marble had been taken for it resembles many quarries I saw afterwards in the Mountain Pentelicus in Attica Besides they would not have bestowed the pains to have dug so deep only for a way nor is it apparent that it was the way For on the Right hand as we ascended up a little distance from it is a Port or Gate made of such vast stones as I believe were dug not far from the place which was the entrance to go up to the Castle on the top of the hill where yet remain Foundations of White Marble Another quarry of such stone is on the Alpes near Lago-Maiore with Pillars of which the Frontispieces of most of the Churches in Millain are Beautified And I believe those of Spalato may come from some quarrie in the Mountains of Croatia as I before hinted This side of the hill hath ascents one above another distinguished by Walls on each side of the place supposed to have
that particular and Authors disagreeing For my Companion setteth it down about Sixty Miles Peitro della Valle Ninety and our Country-man Mr. Sands precisely Sixscore and five Miles It looketh very high and Mountainous from Sea and sends down most prodigious gusts of wind LESBOS as I experienced returning from Smyrna Of Lesbos likewise he hath given a good description for it is much bigger then Scio and hath plenty of Corn Wine and Cattle Of the milk of which they make much Butter and Cheese but have little Trade Each of these Islands pay Eighteen Thousand pieces of Eight a year Carraeth to the Grand Signior Those that gather it at Scio make the heirs three years after the death of their Friends pay it They say also when a Greek changeth his habitation they make him pay a double Pole-Money one in the Country he left and another in that where he cometh to live unless they avoid it by some Artifice as by concealing their native place and true Name Naxia payeth Six Thousand Dollers Milo Three Thousand Paros and Ause as much Scyros Two Thousand Zea Seventeen Hundred for Carraeth and for Tenths Two Thousand Five Hundred Andros Four Thousand Five Hundred Carraeth and Six Thousand Eight Hundred for Tenths Negropont which is the greatest Island in the Archipelago payeth a Hundred Thousand Dollers for all its priviledges The tenths are paid to the Beyes and Vayvodes who are obliged out of them to keep a certain number of Gallies without any expence to the Grand Signior Smyrna maintains two Gallies Naxia Meteline Samos and Andros each of them one Scio two Micone and Seripho one and so the rest in proportion to their Abilities But to return to our Vessel at Tenedos This Island is about four or five Miles from the shore of Asia about Twenty Miles in Circuit and Truitful in Corn and Wine especially Muskatels great part of which is carried to Constantinople It hath a Town and a Castle which lieth on the north-North-end of it but regarding the Promontory Sigaeum towards the East now called Janizzari by the Turks it was taken by the Venetians in the War of Candia and retaken by the Turks by means of a good round Sum of Money given to the Treacherous Governour Near this place was a famous Sea-fight fought betwixt the Venetians and Turks with great loss on both sides though the Victory remained to the Venetians From our Ship at the South-end of Tenedos we discovered the top of that famous Mountain Ida TROY and in the same line upon the Asian shore vast Ruins of a City which we took to be the so much celebrated Troy and therefore we longed very much to see it nor had we therein our desires frustrated For Friday the Twentieth of August the wind holding still contrary or calm both Wood and Water was wanting to our Vessel and therefore the long Boat being sent ashore for recruits we closed with that opportunity of seeing the Valiant Trojans Country We landed in a plain about three Miles North of those Ruins which we saw from our Ship where digging in the sand I suppose the hidden Chanel of some rivolet the Sea men found fresh water This plain is in some places tilled and in some places neglected It beareth Corn Cotton and Sesami of which they make Oyl Cucumbers and Melons of several kinds as Water-Melons which the Italians call Anguria and another kind which they here call Zucchi I saw also in many places neglected Fig-trees and Almond-trees with Fruit upon them Here groweth also abundance of Oaks whereof I never saw any of the kind in England It agreeth something with the description Gerard giveth of the Cerris Majore Glande or the Holme-Oak with great Acorns but not well with his Figure It groweth to a large well proportion'd Tree with a fair top and large branches but whether it is good Timber or no I know not It s small twigs bear a fair leaf above as long again as broad broad at the bottom and ending in a sharp point snipped about the edges with deep sharp-pointed teeth like a great saw and of an Ashcolour somewhat downy It beareth an Acorn twice as big as our ordinary Oaks which cometh out of a deep cup that covereth half the length of it It is rough on the outside with a long flat and heavy substance which before the Acorn appeareth is like to those great excrescences that sometimes are seen in the spring upon our young sappy Oaks In this walk I saw other curious Plants as 1. Tragacantha PLANTS out of which Gumme Dragon issueth in some places 2. Pastinaca Echinifera Fabij Columni 3. Jacea Lutea Capite Spinoso 4. Tartonreina Massiliensium of two kinds Longifolio Latifolio 5. Papaver Caniculatum horned Poppies whose Flower is black at the bottom fomewhat higher of a deep red and by degrees end in a Golden Colour 6. Pancrasium in Flower 7. Verbascum Marinum laciniatis Folijs So that I cannot with Mr. Sands call this barren ground but neglected ' With these curiosities I entertained my self whilst the rest of our Company diverted themselves with the game they found in great plenty there as Hares red Partridges Quails Turtles and a Bird about the bigness of a Thrush the head and breast of a bright yellowish colour the back and wings of a greenish grey like a green Finch the beak and head formed like a Thrush and as fat as Hortulans in France and Italie and our Wheat-ears in England Another kind not much bigger but shaped like a Bittern with a long bill long legs and claws a crist of long Feathers on the Crown and of a speckled colour like an Hawke When we came near to this ruined City we saw abundance of broken Pillars of Marble and others parts of Walls and Fundations along the shore none standing upright nor whole but lying on the ground and many a good way in the Sea scaled by the weather and eaten by the Salt-winds that come from thence A little further is the mole of a Port yet remaining with a large and thick wall on the shore which doubtless was beautified with those many Marble Pillars that are now broken down all along under it The mouth is now stopped up with sand and remaineth very shallow I cannot with my Companion say That this was the Port of Troy so famous in Antiquity nor yet this City that Ilium or Troy whose Wars have been so Celebrated by the Unimitable Homer and Virgil nor the Antiquities there remaining to be of any elder date then the Romans although Bellonius is confident of it and Petro della Valle so wonderfully pleased himself with the thoughts of it that he fancied every great Tree a Hector or Achilles or an Aeneas and all the Briers and Bushes that pricked his shins their Armies and could not forbear crying out Hic Dolopum manus hic saevus tendebat Achilles Classibus hic locus hic acies certare solebant But
Adrianople and several more Villages four or five Miles distant from each other All about these parts are the Serraglioes or Countrey-houses of the great Men among the Turks just as it is Ten or Twenty Miles about London with their Gardens Vineyards and Groves of Cypress-trees The evening we came to St. Stephano's about nine or ten Miles from Constantinople a large Town and most of the Inhabitants Christians Here we lay all Night in our Boat and parting early in the Morning we doubled the Cape of the Bosphorus Thracius which is about three Miles from the Southern Walls of Constantinople where we arrived Monday the Thirteenth of September The End of the first Book THE Second BOOK Containing an ACCOUNT of CONSTANTINOPLE And the Adjacent Places COnstantinople being the Chief Seat of the Ottoman now as it was sometime of the Roman and after the Division of the Grecian Empire hath therefore been still the most frequented of all these Parts both by Men of Business and Curiosity and deservedly the City of all others of which Travellers have endeavoured to give the most accurate Accounts In doing whereof many of them have so well acquitted themselves that I believe we have not more exact Surves of any of our Neighbouring Places in Europe than they have already obliged the World with Without speaking of Bellonius Gillius Petro Dellavalle Monsieur Tavernier we have enough of our own Country whose Pains to this Place and the whole Turkish Empire merit Thanks of all Impartial and Ingenious Men as Mr. Sands many Years since Mr. Rycaut who when Consul to His Majesty at Smyrna published an exact Account of their Policy and since his Return other Treatises concerning this Empire Lastly Mr. Smith B D. and Fellow of Magdalen Colledge in Oxford whom especially as to the Topographical Account of this City I look upon to be the most Exact of any other Therefore knew I how to give my particular Remarks entirely separate from what hath been already written with any satisfactory Coherence I would spare both my Self and Reader the Trouble of any further Account of it than to let them know by these Observations That I also have been to see this so celebrated Place But since that cannot easily be done and that the Reader who is desirous to have some Information about this City as he goes along may not be disappointed altogether of his Expectation I shall give some Account of those Things which are there principally remarkable tho' it be much the same with what is already given by others which I shall dispatch with all the Brevity that can consist with a due Observance to and Illustration of such other Remarks of my own as have not been taken Notice of so far as I know by any that have gone before me COnstantinople is now vulgarly call'd Stambol by the Turks THE NAME but by the Greeks more often Istampoli which must needs be a Corruption from the Greek by such Unskilfulness of their Language as I have before observed Tither from Constantinopolis which in Process of Time might be corrupted into Stinpoli or Istanpoli or rather from its being call'd 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 For the Turks hearing the Greeks express their going to Constantinople by 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which they pronounce Is-tin-polin and oft-times for Brevitys sake Stinpoli might soon ignorantly call it Istanpoli or Stambol according as either of them came in Vogue first And therefore I think theirs is a groundless Fancy who fetch it from the Turkish word Istamboal which signifyes a City full of or shounding in the true Faith the Name being so apparently of Greek original with a small Variation after the Turkish Way as Mr. Smith hath very well observed Our Modern Geographers LATITUDE in their Maps place this City in Forty-three Degrees of Latitude But Dr. Covel Chaplain to Sir John Finch the English Ambassador when I was there assured us That by many Observations made with the Astrolabe at the Aequinoctials he found it to have only Forty Degrees and Fifty six Minutes which agreed also with the Observations of a late Jesuite a good Mathematician who lived there and also that Adrianople hath Forty Degrees and Eighteen Minutes Constantinople is Situate on a Chersonesus SITUATION which hath the Propontis South the Bosphorus East the Harbour called by Strabo 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 now Perami North and is joyned to the Continent of Thrace Westwards It is distant from the Asian-Shore about a League over the Bsphorus and from Galata on the Northern side of the Harbour about a Mile It is of a Triangular Figure two of whose sides to wit towards the Bosphorus FIURE and the Harbour are as two Segments of a Circle bending much inwards to each other The First beginning from the Promontory called now St. Demetrio whereon Byzantium was antiently built but now the Grand Signior's Seraglio and running thence South-East-wards to the Seven Towers is counted about Five or Six Miles That towards the Harbour is about Three Miles and the other joyning to the Continent about Four Miles So that it is about Thirteen Miles in Circumference although they commonly count it Fifteen The Walls on Two fides towards the Bosphorus WALLS and the Harbours are built so small a Distance from the Water that in many Places there is not room to pass between the Square Towers that jet out of it at equal Distances and the Sea They are high but look very ruinous and do all likelihood have been but little if at all repaired since the Time of the Greek Emperours of whom we found several Inscriptions set on high on the Towers and many places of the Walls as of Theophilus Manuel Camnenus Basilius Constantinus Porphyâ—â—â—itus Romanus and Joannes Paleologus as you may see in these Inscriptions we there copied 1. ΠΥΡΓΟΣ ΘΕΟΦΙΛΟΥ ΕΠΧΡΙΣΤΩ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΟΣ 2. ΠΥΡΓΟΣ ΘΕΟΦΙΛΟΥ ΚΑΙΜΙ ΧΑΗΛ ΠΙΣΤΩΠΕΠΧΩ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΩΠAt the Seven Towers towards the Bosphorus †ΙΠΕΠΧΠΑΥΤΟ ΚΡΑΤΟΡΟΣ ΠΑΛΑΙΟ ΛΟΓΟΥ Towards the Bosphorus ΠΑΣΙ ΡΩΜΑΙΟΙΣ ΜΕΓΑΣ ΔΕΣΠΟΤΗΣ ΕΓΕΙΡΕ ΡΩΜΑÎΟΣ ÎΕΟΠΠΑÎΜΕΓΙΣΤΟΠΤΟÎΔΕ ΠΥΡΓΟΠΕΚ ΒΑΘΡῶν Ibid. ΠΙΡΓΟΣ ΒΑΣΙΛΕΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΚΟÎΣΤΑÎΤΙÎΟΥ ΠΙΣΤΩΠΕΠΧΠΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΩΠΕΥΣΕΒΕΙΣ ΒΑΣΕΙΛΕΙΣ ΡΩΜΕΩΠIbid. ΑÎΕΚΑΙÎΕΣΘΗ ΕΠΙ ΜΑÎΟΥΗΛ ΤΟΥ ΦΙΛΟΧΥ ΒΑΣΙΛΕΙΟΣ ΡΩΜΕΙΟΥ ΥΙΟΥ ΕΠÎΗΚΑΙ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΟΣ ΡΩΜΑΙΩΠΤΟΥ ΚΟΜÎΗÎΟΥ ΕΠΕΤΕΙ ΦΚΟΜΒ Ibid. Near the Seraglio ΟÎΤΗΣ ΘΑΛΑΣΣΗΣ ΘΡΑΥΣΜΟΣ ΜΑΚΡΩ ΧΡΟÎΩ ΚΛΙΔΩÎΙ ΠΟΛΛΩ ΚΑΙ ΕΦΟΔΡΩ ΡΕΓÎΥΜΕÎΗ ΕΠΕΣΕΙΠΚΑΤΗÎΑΓΚΑΣΕ ΠΥΡΓΟΠΕΚ ΒΑΘΡΩΠΒΑΣΙΛΕΙΟΣ ΗΓΕΙΡΕ ΕΥΣΕΒΗΣ ΑÎΑΞ They are built of rough Stone and here and there patched up with Brick being single towards the Sea but some part towards the Land double There are about Five and Twenty Gates Seven towards the Propontis GATES Seven towards the Land and Eleven towards the Haven Every way from the Sea-side the Land riseth higher PROSPECT WITHOUT untill it is swelled into an indifferent high Hill which runneth in a Ridge Westwards and hath Seven Points higher and more Perspicuous than
old is almost demolished and only serves to cleanse Corn and to make fine Flour for the Seraglio The other was built in two Months time about seventeen Years ago for the Grand Signior's coming thither It is but a small Building but well contrived with Baths and Stoves and adorned with Roofs and Walls gilded and painted in pretty Knots and Flowers with Presses on one side of each Room for Bedding and Furniture according to the manner of the Turks who have not their Houses incumbred with great Bed-steads Tables Chairs and Stools but only a part of the Room raised higher than the rest and covered with a Carpet where all get up and sit cross-legg'd sometimes with Cushions to sit or lean upon and this serves for Parlour Dining-Room and Bed-Chamber When they sit to eat one bringeth a little round Table sometimes of one piece of Wood and sometimes doubled together with a low Foot whereon the Meat is set in little Dishes One Napkin is long enough for the whole Company and goeth round the Table which is seldom cover'd with a Cloth because it serveth instead of Trenchers When they go to bed a Servant cometh and taketh the Quilts Sheets and Coverings and prepareth for as many as lie there each one one It would make but a poor Palace for any of our Christian Princes But the Prospect from the Castle is more pleasant being situate upon the Brow of the Hill overlooking the Town and Country which was no more than necessary for it hath no other Garden now We expected a better Shew for our Doller a Head which the Keeper exacted of us But it is good to be undeceived of the high Opinions we have of Things which deserve them not especially when our Experience costs not too dear There is no considerable River near this Town But the Mountain doth furnish them with so many Springs that I never saw more Fountains nor with greater Sources of Water in any place where-ever I have been but they are not esteemed very wholsome I believe because the Snow-Water continually melting from the Mountain mixeth with them These with what falls from the Mountain make two little Streams one whereof we passed coming into the Town and the other I passed over by a Bridge on the North-East-side of the Town to go up the Mountain which hath another Bridge not far from this both well-built and large joyning the Suburbs to the Town The Metropolitan Church is well worth seeing having been a fair Building cased within with curious and well-wrought Marble built in the form of a Greek Cross that is square with a Cuppalo in the Middle held up by four Pillars which being beat down in the time of the Siege was repaired by the Turks and the fair Capitals of the Pillars set where the Basis should be and the Basis where the Capitals An Emblem of their Tyranny over Christendom turning all things upside down So have they made this Holy Place the Sepulcher of Orchanes the Conquerour of it and the Second King of the Turks But there yet remains the Place of the Altar which they call 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or the Holy Ascent being according to their Custom a place containing three Seats one above another in form of a Semi-circle On the first the Patriarch and Metropolitans use to sit on the next the Bishops and on the other the Presbyters when the Sacrament was celebrated Adjoyning to this is the Sepulcher of Bajazet's Children Beyond the Stream on the North-East-side of the Town is a Royal Mosque and a Colledge by it with twelve Apartments for twelve â—â—â—ers who are obliged to teach to Write Read and the Understanding of the Law Thither any poor Man may come and eat at any time and on Fridays be feasted with Rice Hard by is the Founder's Sepulcher which looketh very prettily being a large Cuppalo covered with Lead on the top and the Walls cased with Porcelane Tiles Here are three or four very good Kans KANS. built two Stories high covered with Lead each Room a Cuppalo over it For this Town is a great Thorow-fare and of much Traffick all the Caravans coming from Smyrna Aleppo and most part of those from Persia to Constantinople passing by this Place The Basars are well built and furnished with Merchants and all sorts of Merchandizes A great deal of English Cloth is brought hither and no small quantity of Silk made here the Plains being covered with Mulberry-Trees to feed the Silk-Worms Here many of the Turks seem to live more gentilely than ordinary and have their Houses of Pleasure without the Town One I saw belonging to a Haga well contrived with shady Walks Chiosques Fountains and Artificial Fish-Ponds Here Dr. Covel made me take notice of a Willow-Tree whose large Branches were so limber that they bend down to the Ground from a good high-pollard Trunk and naturally make a curious shady Bower about it The Leaf is like our Osiers There is plenty of all sorts of Provisions here and most delicious Fruits especially Pomegranates which are esteemed so good that they are sent from thence to Adrianople for the Grand Signior's eating Great plenty of excellent Fresh-Water-Fish which the Lake on the Mountain and others not far off with the River Ascanius not a days Journey thence furnisheth them with Especially Carps Trouts and Eeles Of the first I saw many and eat of some three Foot in length with their large Bellies filled with fat Of the last we were made a Present of one by an Armenian that had been in England above an Ell long large and white as Silver This Armenian informed us That the Mountain was almost covered with curious Plants which made Dr. Covel who is a great Lover of them as well as my self long to go and ransack it which the stay we made being longer than we thought by reason that Mr. Cary fell sick here gave us opportunity to do So that Monday the Eleventh of October about five a Clock in the Morning having hired Horses for two Dollars five Timins to our Janizary and as much to our Guide setting out and beginning to mount Olympus we came up to the highest part we could for the Snow about Eleven a Clock Whence from a pointed Hill on the North-side we had a most Charming Prospect the height making it from North to South unbounded the Western half of the Compass from Constantinople all the Propontis the Plains of Mysia to Mount Ida with the Lake and River Ascanius lay plain before us as in a Map But more particularly thus The two Bays we passed by over the Propontis lay parallel to each other North that of Ishmit stretching it self farthest East this of Mountania having one Lake on the East end which I suppose emptieth it self into the Propontis by it and another in a Valley near to the Foot of this Mountain north-North-West by North the Island Chalcis c. and a little more West-ward Constantinople as they say an hundred
have others of their own which I could not be permitted to see and some that belong'd to the Arch-Bishop of Athens An Evangelistary I bought written in Capital Letters but as to the Age I hope to give a better Account another time They eat all together in a Hall round which are long Tables of white Marble where they sit according to Seniority and at the upper end is a little one where the Hegoumenos sits alone in a Chair They have several Offices and Ceremonies before and after Dinner At that after Dinner I was present when I returned this way and is thus When all have dined and are risen before they depart the Room there is a piece of Bread brought in a dish and a cup of Wine set upon the Hegoumeno's Table which by Prayers he seems to Consecrate like the Sacrament and then brings it round the Hall first the Bread of which every one breaketh a Crumb as they stand ranked from one end of the Hall to the other on each side Then the Wine is brought in like manner and every one drinketh of it round After which some Prayers and Thanksgivings are said and then every one departeth to his Cell The next day after Morning-Service the Hegoumenos carried us into a kind of Buttery as I may call it and made us breakfast with him with Bread and Honey and Olives good Wine and Aqua Vitae He told us then amongst other things That the Ambassadour of France Monsieur De Nantuille was there several days and would fain have had the Roman Mass said in their Church But they told him It was a thing they could by no means grant it being contrary to their Rites But he yet pressing them they at last absolutely refused it letting him know that if such a thing should be done they could no more say their Liturgy in that Church At which the Ambassadour was very much offended being a great Zelot for the Roman Church who made it his Business every where to perswade the Greeks that their Belief is the same with the Latines some few Punctilioes only excepted But they then had had no News of the Council held by the Patriarch and some of the Bishops by his contrivance and the Doctrine of Transubstantiation was altogether unknown to them as I before said There was then a young Father that spake very good Italian being a Native of Zant He was our Interpreter and when we parted with the Hegoumenos he carried us to see their Provisions of Wine and Olives which they preserve in the longest Casks I ever saw several of them I measured near twenty foot long Olives pickled are their great Sustenance in Lent which are not pickled green as in these Parts but when they are full ripe and full of Oyl They eat them with Vinegar being very nourishing and wholsome Food and very grateful to the Stomach There is an Hermite that liveth a Mile and half off whom I saw not this time but when I last came that way the April ensuing we went to his Hermitage THE HERMITAGE descending from the Convent down the Hill Southwards first passing a little River in a pleasant Plain well planted with Vineyards and Olive-trees and among them little Houses where the Caloyers come sometimes for Recreation in the Summer After this we mounted up by a steep Rock by an easie Ascent in a way cut out of the Rock and large enough for two Carts to pass by one another on the top of which we discerned the antient Ruins of a Castle and a Town This I believe to be that Pausanias calleth Bulis in the Confines of Phocis and Boeotia seven Stadia or almost a Mile from the Port for there is a Harbour about the same distance from the Place and was without doubt that which Strabo calleth Mycus Portus the last Port of the Phocaeans beyond which the Rocks of Mount Helicon did hang over as indeed they do there Near this Harbour the Convent hath a Metochy or Farm and in the Harbour they fish and lade the Corn they can spare to transport it to the Neighbouring Parts Thence we turned to the left hand upon a Ridge of craggy Rocks about half a Mile which brought us to the Cell of the Hermite The Hermitage is situated upon the South-East-side of a Rock and is a little House with a pretty Chapel or Oratory at the upper end of a large Garden most pleasant by Nature without much Assistance either of Cost or Art It is only hedged about with such Shrubs and Bushes as the Soil beareth the upper side which is fenced by the Rock only excepted But Nature is here profuse in curious Plants of which I gathered about half a hundred that grow not ordinarily in England in and about the Garden Of which I shall defer to speak till I come to Athens because I saw most of them there again with many others Something below his House descending towards the lower side of his Garden is a Fountain of very good Water and beyond that a River that runneth down from the high Cliffs of the Helicon making a natural Cascade at such a convenient distance that it affordeth great Pleasure to the Eyes without the least Offence to the Ears until at last with all the murmurs of Applause a Poet in his most charming Contemplations can fansie it passeth by this happy Place where Peace and Innocency seem to dwell far out of the reach of the Hate or Flattery of inconstant Fortune to which even those Rocks and the vast Stones that lie in its Channel seem to comply and while Men seem dumb make their Praises mount aloud to Heaven A prodigious height round about one discovereth the Helicon's white Tops still covered with Snow which this poor Hermites aged Head seemeth in epitome to resemble He followeth the Steps of St John Baptist in the Wilderness not cloathed in Hypocritical Rags but with a decent long Garment of a brown Hair-colour dyed of that hue with the Skins of Wallnuts and not much differing from the rest of the Caloyers But his Life is most severe His ordinary food is Bread and Herbs and his drink Water and that only on Sunday Tuesday Thursday and Saturday Sometime upon Saturday Sunday and great Holy-days he will eat a little Honey and Bread but hardly ever drinketh Wine but that of the Holy Sacrament The time that he spendeth from his Devotions he employeth in writing Books of their Liturgies He hath a Companion or Servant that doth him all necessary Offices but useth not such severity as himself His employment at spare time is chiefly in making Crosses which he carveth with admirable Curiosity The Work is hollow and so fine that it is beyond Belief and hath represented upon it the principal Parts of our Faith as the Nativity Annunciation c. but especially the Death and Passion of our Saviour For one of these I offered Ten Dollers but he would not part with it hearing we
ΑΡΙΣΤΩΠΦΙΛΟΚΡΑΣΙΟΣ This Town was celebrated in old times for the Oracle of Trophonius which was in a Cavern in a Hill I rather believe it was in that above the Town than that Monsieur Spon mentions and we saw in a Rock a Mile distant North of it when we parted thence to Thebes But Pausanias indeed is not so clear as might be wished by reason of his long Digression Nevertheless one may collect it being he saith That the Trophonian Grove was by the Fountain of this River Hercyna And I observ'd where the Water issueth out in greatest abundance it was made up with Boards just in the Corner under the Castle without doubt to cover some dangerous Cavern And Pausanias saith This Oracle was in the Mountain above the Grove so that it must be that above the Town if that were the Fountain Hercyna of which there is no doubt By Pausanias his Description one would believe that the Hole on the Top of the Hill reached to this at the Bottom For those that entred it to consult the Oracle were to put their Head and Knees in such a certain place and posture and were suddenly carried down as by a Vortex or Whirlepool of a most swift River This might easily be so done by stopping the Water at the Bottom until it rose very high and then letting it go of a sudden But he that went to steal the Treasure there had not so good a Preparation for it prov'd a Trap to him by which he broke himself to pieces and was taken up another way as Pausanias informs you All these things want good Search and Examination and are not easily to be found out by Travellers that stay but a little while in a Place unless we should suppose them to have so many of the antient Greek Authors almost by heart There were publick Games instituted in honour of this God Trophonius of which notwithstanding none of the â—â—tients speak unless Julius Pollux who mentions only that these Games took their Name from Trophonius Yet that they were celebrated in this Place viz. at Livadia we found by a Stone at Megara erected in honour to one who amongst the Prizes he had gain'd in other Places had won these also at Livadia We found an Inscription wherein there seems to be a Town of this Name ΤΟΙ ΙΠΠΟΤΗ ΛΕΒΑΔΕΙΕΩΠΑÎΕΘΙΑΠΤΡΕΦΩÎΙΟΙ .. ÎΠΑΞΑÎΤΕΣ ΙΠΠΑΣΙÎΠΑΜΒΟΙΩΤΙΑ ΙΠΠΑΡΧΟÎΤΟΣ ΔΕΞΙΠΠΟΣ ΑΥΚΡΑΤΕΙΩ ΕΙΛΑΡΧΙΟÎΤΩΠΑΡΙΣΤΩÎΟΣ ΘΡΑΣΩÎΙΩ ΕΠΙΤΙΜΟΣ ΑΥΚΡΑΤΕΙΩ But therein they are written ΤΡΕΦΩÎΙΟΙ if I have copied it right of which I am not so well assured as to be positive The Game Pamboiotia is here mentioned which Strabo and Pausanias say was celebrated in the Plain of Coronaea by or in the Temple of Minerva Itonia where all the Boeotians assembled for that purpose January the Twenty fifth we parted from Livadia about eleven in the Morning and about half a Mile out of Town being come to the top of a little Hill being a small Ridge of Laphystius we had the Prospect of a spacious and fertil Plain encompassed with Mountains but not very high if compared with those of Parnassus and Helicon It is stretched in length from Livadia South-East near twenty Miles and in breadth is as much comprehending the Lake and Marshes which take up near half of the North-East side of it This Lake was formerly called The Lake of Copais but now Livadias Limne or The Lake of Livadia and not Stivo-lago meaning I suppose Thiva Limne as our Modern Maps make it For that is another Lake that was formerly called Hylica palus Of all which I shall have more to say in the Last Book We left the Lake Copais at a good distance on the left hand and kept still streight forwards under the Mountains on the right hand South-Eastwards which I suppose were the Mountains Tilphusium and Laphystius I observ'd six good large Streams crossing our way and running Northwards towards the Lake which may be Ocaled Tilphusa Lophis Olmens Coralius and Permessus mentioned by Pausanias and Strabo There are many little Villages up and down in this Plain some Vineyards a great deal of Corn-ground and Pasturage well stock'd also with Sheep and other Cattle But it is very much subject to Inundations upon great Rains or melting of the Snow from the Mountains which is no wonder having no Passage above ground for the Water out of the Lake but only that into Hylica palus which also lieth so high that the greatest â—art of the Plain must needs be drowned before the overflowing Water would find a Passage that way the ordinary Passages out of the Lake being under ground About fourteen Miles from Livadia we past by a Village on our left hand called Charamenitis and about an hour before night another which they call Diminia that is to say Two Months because the Corn there is sowed ripe and reaped within the space of two Months the Floods of the Lake not permitting them to sow before April and it being Harvest-time with them by the beginning of June By this Town is a Rock on the Top of which appear the antient Walls of a Town My Companion thinketh it may be Onchestus but I think it rather Coronaea for Reasons I have elsewhere given Here is a Fountain that riseth at the Foot of the Rock which makes the Stream Coralius In half an hour thence we came to Megalo-molci where we lodged in an indifferent good Kan Molci signifies properly Farms belonging to the Grand Signior where those that inhabit are no other than his Servants and Workmen This is a large square Court composed of little Houses for those that either labour till the Ground or attend the Cattle where at night they retire to lodge These seem badly to imitate the Roman Colonies with this great difference That those had still some great Priviledges granted them but these are all Slaves The next day we parted thence by Sun-rising and within half an hour came to the South-East end of the Plain bounded by a little Ridge of a Mountain that runneth out from Mount Phoenix on the left hand and another on the right I believe was Libethrius As soon as we got on the Top of this Hill we began to see Thebes at the further end of another Plain East North-East of us and behind us we had the Hill by Livadia West North-West This Plain is now called Thivas Cambos and in old time to the same effect the Theban Plain It is bounded with Hills and Mountains and is much less than that of Livadia The Northern Bounds of this I take to be the Mountain Phoenicius from Strabo which Pausanias seems to call Sphinx or Sphingius mons That on the right hand or the Southern Bounds of this Plain I know not how it was antiently called but is a Ridge of the Mountain Libethrius which is the same of the Mountain Helicon and is the same that separates the Plain of Thespia from the Plain of Thebes I observed a Torrent run
call the place about it Palaeo-Chori that is Old-Towm Having passed through the Olive-yards about a mile further we left an old Tower a little way to the left hand My Companion stepp'd to it and finding several Inscriptions upon Sepulchral Pillars he copied them and so we came at last to the end of the plain to the Sea-shore where Mount Corydalis running with its Western point a little into the Sea makes the Promontory Amphialia about six or seven miles from Athens Between this Promontory and Salamina is a Streight which is not a mile over in the narrowest part where we passed it over by a Ferry attending there for Passengers Salamis is now called Colouri and as our Consul esteems it is about fifty Miles in compass It hath a Harbour on the West-side eight Miles in length and three Miles broad in the largest space It is of an Ovael Figure and at the bottom of its Bay hath a Town of the same name with the present name of the Island viz. Colouri This Town at present consists of about an hundred and fifty poor Cottages and perhaps of four hundred Persons There are two other Villages in the Island the one situate upon a Hill on the South-side of the Harbour about five or six Miles off and in sight of Colouri and is called Metropis The other called Ambelachi is situated near the Streight towards Athens They consist of about thirty Houses apiece The antient City Salamis was by this last remov'd a little more to the Sea-side where it had a little Harbour in which at this day appear many antient Foundations under Water of carved Stone and according to the appearance of Ruins all thereabouts the City ought to have been near four Miles about Near the Ruins of an antient Temple we found these Lines on a black Marble Stone which hath the antient name ΣΑΛΑΜΙÎΑ Salamis engraven on it ÎΙΚΟΚΛΗΣ ΗΓΗΣΙΠΠΟΥ ΑΠΑΓΥΡΑΣΙΟΣ ΕΙΚΟÎΑ ΤΗΠΔΕ ΑÎΕΘΗΚΕΠÎΙ ..... ΜΩΠΠΑΤΡΟΣ ΕΑΥΤΟΥ ΑΘΑÎΑΤΟΙΣΙ ΘΕΟΙΣ ΚΟΣΜΩΠΙΕΡΑΠΣΑΛΑΜΙÎΑ That is Nicocles Son of Hegesippus of Anagyra NI .... Perhaps Nicocles erected this Statue of his Father to the Immortal Gods adorning holy Salamis This Island was the Kingdom of Valiant Ajax and this was the chief City of it Ajax was then so powerful as Homer testifies that he furnished a dozen Sail of Ships to joyn with the rest of the Navy of Greece in the Trojan War This Island in after-times was much contended for between the Athenians and Megarians but to whom soever of right it belonged the Megarians were forced to submit to and acquiesce quiesce in the Conquest of it by their more powerful Neighbours the Athenians We saw and copied several other Inscriptions and a little Basso-relievo I found masoned in the Wall of an old Church which I prevailed with the Pappa to remove and is one of the three I described at Athens Salamis hath many high Rocks and Cliffs but withal several fruitful Valleys running between them which bear good store of Wheat and Barley Of the Pine-trees on the Hills they make good store of Pitch and of the Lentiscus Wood growing there in good plenty they make Soap-ashes So that with these Commodities and their Fishing the Inhabitants make shift to get a poor Living Athens being their Market for all Above the Village Colouri PLANTS at SALAMIS or COLOURI is a high cragged Rock upon which among other Plants I gathered a kind of Medica which creepeth on the Ground and is beset with Leaves growing close to the Stalk something like Kidney-Vetches every Stalk being set with them three four five and sometimes six upon a Stalk covered with a Silver Hoariness The Flowers follow in little Tufts of five or fix golden-colour'd Blossoms these are succeeded by crooked flat Cods like a Half-Moon and not much unlike to Gerard's Trifolium lunatâ siliquâ pag. 1217. It agreeth well enough with his Description but not with his Figure for the Leaves of this are not snipped at the Edges as his Monsieur Merchant called it Auricula muris Camerarii There is another somewhat like to this but the Leaves of it are shorter and broader than the other The â—â—â—wers grow five or six together close to a creeping Stalk each followed with a large Husk swelled like a Bladder of a shining Silver-colour which when the Blossom is past swells bigger but what Cod it makes I saw not I gathered there also in the Fields a little kind of Iris or Flag bearing a pretty white Flower about a handful high from the Ground and the Leaves no broader nor longer than the ordinary Grass About Salamis we observed several other little Islands LIPSOCATALIA as between the Streight and Porto-Lione a desart one called now Lipsocatalia but by Strâbo Psytalia Beyond the Streight towards Eleusis are two other little Rocks or Islands close together the one called Megala Kira and the other Micra Kira On one of these it was called antiently also Kera that Xerxes built a Silver Throne to sit and see the Battle fought between his and the Grecian Fleet the Issue whereof was That the Greeks handled his great and numerous Navy so that in the end he hardly escaped himself in a small Boat We contented our selves with the sight of the rest of the Islands in the Saronick Gulph by viewing them from the Attick Shore But our good Friend the Consul who had often visited them gave us also a more particular Account of them by the help of which and our own Observation we are enabled to give a more exact Account of it than any hath been yet published which I think very proper to insert in this Place because the whole Saronick Gulph is so frequently mentioned in antient History This Gulph is contained within the Promontory Sunium now called Capo Colonni on the Attick Shore and Schillaeum now Capo Skillo on the Morean of Peloponnesian Shore which I suppose to be about two or three and twenty Miles distant from each other by the Observations I have made as well upon Mount Hymettus as the Promontory Sunium and by the same Proportion from the Entrance to the bottom of the Gulph to the Isthmus is about fifty five Miles There are many little Islands in this Gulph but the principal are Aegina Colouri and Porus and these only are inhabited They had in times past a Veivode and Caddi common to them all But of late they have thought good to make an Agreement with the Captain Basha and to pay him yearly seven hundred eighty five Dollers for all their Duties By which means they are left to themselves and might grow Rich again did not the Corsairs haunt them so much For they have Ground enough to cultivate for so few Inhabitants Aegina is now the chief Island AEGINA and giveth Name at present to the whole Gulph as the River Saron did in times past It continues its antient Name still among the Greeks although our Seamen corruptly Tcall it
are watered by the Rivulet Ornea running down from the Mountains that bound this Plain South and South-Westwards and from thence I believe runs into the River Nemea which we past about mid-way by a Bridge This River then was not very considerable but after rains is poured down from the Mountains in such abundance that it fills many Channels on each side of it which before were dry In our way we passed by many little Villages and arrived at Basilico after three hours riding Basilico or as some call it Basilica was in old time a great City called Sicyon When the Kingdom of the Morea was under the Tenetians it was a considerable Town now it is but a heap of Ruins and Inhabited only by three Families of Turks and about as many Christians This final destruction one of the Inhabitants told us happened about twenty years ago by the Plague which they held to be a Judgment of God upon the Turks for profaning one of the Christian Churches there turning it into a Mosque by Command of the Vaivode who fell down dead upon the place the first time he caused the Alchoran to be read in it whose Death was followed soon after with such a Pestilence as in a short time utterly destroyed the whole Town which could never since be re-peopled It is situated upon a Hill about three Miles from the Gulph of Lepanto and hath the River Asopus running under it on the East-side on which are some Powder-Mills as they told us which are the first I ever saw in Turkey There remaineth abundance of Ruins both ancient and modern The Wall of the Castle many Churches and some Mosques and a good way off the Castle Westwards is a Ruin they call the Kings Palace which seems to be very ancient but made of Bricks I take it to have been a Bath from the many Chanels down the Wall to bring Water Beyond that at a good distance is a Hill formed Semicircular I believe by Art and to have been a Theater or Stadium There are also abundance of Caverns and Vaults in the ground which we could not stay to examine with any exactness but returned part of our way towards Corinth that Evening and lay at a little Village about midway The next Morning we passed along the shore by several little Lakes and the ancient Port of Corinth called Lechaeum now quite choked up We left Corinth about two Miles off on the right hand and went two or three Miles further to a Village they call Heximillia where we spent the rest of a wet day because we could not reach to Megara that Night nor was there any where to lodge at in the way This Village is called Heximillia because the Isthmus at this place is six Miles wide The next day we came early to Megara and the day following to Athens The Plants I took notice of and gathered in the Isthmus are these 1. Sea-Pines with small Cones 2. Wild Olive-Trees 3. Lentiscus grown to the bigness of Trees 4. Much of the Horncod-Tree or Keratia 5. A Tree called by the Greeks Kedros It is very like Sabina baccifera but here it groweth to an extraordinary bigness tall and streight up like a Tree But I could perceive no difference between it and Sabina Baccifera besides For the Berries and green of both are alike 6. Cedrus Lyciae part of whose Leaves are like Sabina Baccifera and part like Juniper 7. Scabiosa argentea petraea or Silver-colour'd rock-scabious It is a little shrub with long and narrow silver-colour'd Leaves the Flowers I saw not 8. Aristolachiae Clematitis Species Of which before 9. Linaria Latifolia Valentiana Clusii It is a kind of Toad-flax with broad Leaves and the Flowers are of several Colours Blue Yellow and White which look very beautiful 10. Androsemum Vmbelliferum of which before 11. Scorzonera rotundâ radice as before Before I quit Attica I shall here insert another Journey I made to the Promontory Sunium although I did it another time after my Camerade and I had parted in Greece that what I have to say of the Attica may be together Consul Giraâ—d and a Merchant of Micone were so kind to let me have their Company We set out in Easter-Week and resolved to take Port-Raphti in our way to which our Road lay directly Eastwards from Athens We passed by Mount Saint George on our left hand about a Mile and made towards the end of Mount Hymettus which we left on the right hand about four Miles from Athens About six Miles from Athens we saw on the left hand a Village called Agopi where beginneth the Plain of Mescigia which is all that Tract of Land that is between Hymettus and Promontorium Sunium called in times past Paralia and was the Portion of Pallas another of the Sons of Panthion â—e came and Dined at a little Cell belonging to the Covent Kyriana called Metochi which signifieth a Farm where some Caloiroes live to Husband their grounds After Dinner we took Horse and continued our Journey until we came to Porto Raphti which is esteemed eighteen Miles from Athens But I do not believe it above fourteen or fifteen PORTO RAPHTI The Bay that maketh this Harbour is situated on the Eastern shore of Attica and hath the highest point of Mount Hymettus Northwest by North. The Southern Promontory of Negropont East It is divided into two little Baies by a sharp point that runneth into the middle of it and it hath two little Islands or Rocks towards the Mouth the biggest of which lieth East South-East off from the middle point and giveth the name to the Harbour from a Colossian Statue of White Marble representing a Taylor cutting Cloth which the Greeks call Raphti These secure the Port against all Winds coming from the Sea so that it is not only a secure Port but they say so convenient that hardly any Wind can blow but Ships may both go out and come in with the same I believe this Port was anciently called Panormus from whence the Athenians were wont to fail to Delos to carry the Mysteries of Apollo sent down through all Greece from the Hyperboreans Here are also the Ruins of a Town upon the shore which was the Town called anciently 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Prassae being the Harbour where in former times twenty Sail of the Issadâ— join'd with the Roman Fleet when they were called to help the Athenians against Philip King of Macedon We turned a little to the right hand thence and after we had rode about six Miles further we came to a Village called Marcopoli MARCOPOLI The Ruins hard by it shews it to have been a considerable place in old time but now it hath not above twenty or thirty Houses remaining Perhaps it was anciently the Town Aegilia of the Tribe of Antïoch Strabo calleth them Aeginenses but Meursius corrects him out of Suidas and Stephanus In some ruined Churches I found a few inconsiderable Inscriptions upon Pillars and
passage yet somewhat lower we came to the Ruins of a Town hear unto which on the side of the Hill we observed a curious Fountain running down thence into the Thebane Lake This Town might be the ancient Hyla which gave name to the Lake HYLA Here also I found some fragments of Inscriptions but such as gave me no hint of the ancient name of it Descending yet lower down the Mountain towards the Lake leaving the way to Thebes on the left hand and turning under the Mountain Cocino which we kept at our right we came in less than an hour to a small Village called Hungaro just by the old Passage of Cephisus HUNGARO into the Hylica palus according to Strabo When I had made all my Observations of it according to what I have before said by a very ill way Southwards we mounted up the Hill now called Mazaraci MAZARACI from a Monastery that is on it of like name This is that Hill or Mountain which Strabo describes by the name Phoenicius and Pausanias by the name of Sphingis mons On the top of it is a good large Plain which lyeth desart rather as I judge for want of Cultivation than of fertility Thence after Dinner and an hours further riding we descended by the Covent Mazaraci into the Plain of Thebes leaving a ruined Village about a Mile Eastward of Mazaraci We might soon have crossed over this end of the Plain it being narrow had not the Water after the Rains setled there and made the ground so false and rotten that we feared almost every step to be swallowed up both Horse and Man together to prevent which we went afoot our selves But having by Gods help escaped that danger and crossed the way from Thebes to Livadia we ascended again another Hill bounding the Plain of Thebes from the Plain of Rimocastri Southwards and came to Rimocastri on the other side of it an hour before Night I made a stop on the top of this Hill RIMOCASTRI and surveighed the Country about me For thence I had the sight of a great part of Boeotia that I had not before seen especially the Plain of Rimocastri But those parts I left behind I observed to lie thus The Mountain by Thalanda North North-West The Passage between the Mountains from Cocino and the rest of Ptoos North-East by North. A Mountain towards Egripo I think Typo-Vouni East-North-East Chasha or Parnes East-South-East Elatea or Cithaeron beginneth South-East and descendeth somewhat upon the Corinthian Gulph to wit on the Bay of that Gulph called now Livadostro South South-West Whence ariseth a high Rock off from it and Helicon West South-West The top of the Helicon appears hence West by North being the nearest Rimocastri is situated upon the Brow of this Hill over-looking a large Plain South and hath an unlimited prospect towards the Morea between Helicon and Cithaeron It is divided into three little knots of Houses two upon the Hill and one below which may in all consist of about a hundred Cottages of Greeks and Albaneses all Christians except a Sub-Basha that governs them who is a Turk That part of the Town which stands upon the point of the Brow seemeth to have been in former times fortified with a Ditch on the North-side on the other the Precipice of the Hill is its defence though at present needless their Poverty being security enough for them Here it is that I drank the best Wine the most generous and well tasted that I had done in all Greece In this Plain are many ancient Ruins of Towns and about this place and just under the Mountain are so many and great Ruins that it hath made some to suppose this place to have been the ancient Thespia But I am not of their opinion I think rather it was the ancient Thisba as I shall have occasion by and by again more expresly to conclude shewing by most probable Testimony where the old Thespia was Here I met with Morat our Druggerman who brought me news that he had seen my Companion safely Embarked Whereupon taking Horse the next day I made a Circuit about the Plain bending my course Westwards under the Hill and after about a Mile we came to some Ruins and old decayed Churches PHRIA called Phria where we also found some Inscriptions especially one which was a Pedestal dedicated by the Town to one Titus Flavius Aristus About a Mile further riding we came to another ruinated Town called Spatharia the Church whereof ruinated in like manner with the Town seem'd to have been built at first of ancient ill carved Marbles with Basso-relievoes of the same of men on Horse-back with their names and ΗΡΩΗ for title to each one of them Thence turning more South-Westwards we passed over by a Stone-Bridge a River coming from the Helicon and running Eastwards in this Plain and about two Miles further came to a Village called Neocoria or New-town just at the foot of the Mountain Zagara or Helicon hard by which are the Ruins of an ancient City upon a Hill with a steep descent from it every way except on that side where it is joined to the high Mountain above it In the way going up to it is a ruined Church which hath for the Altar a Cornish of a Pedestal of a Statue about four foot long and three foot large and a foot thick on the edge of which is an ancient Inscription wherein the Town Thespia is twice mentioned ΘΕΣΠΙΩΠΟΙ ΠΑΙΔΕΣ ΚΑΙ ΠΑΡΟΙΚΟΠ... ΠΡΜΑ ...... ΟΜΕÎΩΠΕΠΩΕΣΠΙΑΙΣ ΠΡΩΤΟΓΕÎΩΠΑΡΩΤΑΧΟΥ ΤΟΠΚΡΙΣ .. ΠΑΤΕΡΑ ΚΑΙ ΕΥΕΡΓΕΤΗΠΕΑΥΤΩ Î. Whence because it likewise agrees with the Description Pausanias gives of it I doubt not but this was the Seat of the ancient Thespia THESPIA It is about four Miles distant from Rimocastri Westwards and five or six from Cacos a Town seated in one of the Bayes of the Corinthian Gulph called now Livadostro Thence we turned South-East-wards and after two or three Miles riding over a little Hill we came to other Ruins of a Town called Palaeo-corio or Old Town where we likewise found some Inscriptions but less considerable Thence returning Eastwards we passed by another little Village called Tadza where are some marks of Antiquity and by it a curious Fountain which I guess to be that which was so celebrated in old times for the Fable of Narcissus and if so the Town should have been called Donacon Paus Lib. 3. p. 589. or Hedonacon as some read it I saw no Narcissus then growing it being yet too early in the Year But another time I saw abundance in the next Plain and several other places adjacent Yet what Pausanias saith of this Fountain agreeth with several other places in this Plain especially Rimocastri where there are many Springs up and down the Plain which collecting themselves into streams some run towards the Theban Lake and others to the Corinthian Gulph That which runs towards Thebes
was formerly Coronea MINERVA ITONIA then the Ruined Tower may have been the place where the Temple of Minerva Itonia sometimes stood which was the place where all Boeotia used to assemble in Council Thence coming nearer to the foot of the Helicon I passed by a very pleasant Prospect into a little Plain inclosed every way with prominent parts of the Mountain except one narrow Passage for entrance to it like to a Sea-Port Hence we soon mounted up to St Georgio situate on the side of Helicon having left a Village below it on the right hand Either St Georgio or this Village was probably the Alalcontenae of old time This Town is called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or St George from a Monastery there dedicated to him There are two or three Churches here in which are some Inscriptions of Antiquity But I could not see them because my Guide was afraid of the Turks and my Druggerman was return'd to Athens to give the Consul an account of my Resolutions to proceed on my Voyage to Zant. So we staid not long in this place but mounted up a considerable way higher toward the top of the Helicon with intentions to pass quite over it unto the Convent of Saint Luke But we were hindred by the Snow which was not yet passable This Mountain is now called Zagara by the Turks M. ZAGARA the HELICON from the great abundance of Hares they say breed there although there be plenty of other Game also especially Wild Boars and Dear But it is known out of Strabo undoubtedly to be that famous Helicon of the ancients For agreeable to his Description it lyeth upon the Crissean or Corinthian Gulph bordering upon Phocis which it regards Northward somewhat inclining to the West And as the saith its high Cliffs hang over the last Harbour of Phocis which was therefore called Mycus nor is it not far distant from Parnassus nor inferiour to it either in height or the compass of ground that it stands on Finally that they are both Rocky Mountains and the tops of them perpetually covered with Snow Mount Helicon was in old times consecrated to the Muses by the Thracians and was the native Country of the ancient Poet Hesiod who was born at Ascra an inhospitable Town on the side of it towards the Sea whom Ovid seems to follow and imitate but with more briskness and less gravity Hesiod seems with more respect to celebrate the Gods as it became his perswasion of them and with more earnestness to press men to Justice Vertue and Humanity which is as much to be preferred before the others bawdy and lying stories of them as all Moral and Christian Vertues infinitely transcend the obscene Lampoons of our present Age being really more beautiful and attracting Objects than any Mistresses in the World I found not those Monuments either of Hesiod Orpheus or the Muses Pausanias in his time professeth to have seen there And as to the Fountain Hippocrene the famous haunt of the nine Sisters it was then frozen up if it were where I guess'd it to have been So that were I a Poet and never so great a Votary of those Heliconian Deities I might be excused from making Verses in their praise having neither their presence to excite nor their liquor to inspire me For having gone two or three Miles forwards on the top till I came to the Snow my further proceedings that way were hindred only alighting I made shift to clamber up the Rocks somewhat higher until I came to look down into a place encompassed round with the tops of Mountains so that the inclosed space seemed to me to be a Lake frozen and covered with Snow But my Guide telling me be passed that way once in the Summer time with Monsieur Nantueil the French Embassador and then saw it a very pleasant green Valley covered with Flowers having a very good Fountain in the middle of it I am much inclin'd to think the Hippocrene was there and there also in antient times the delicious Grove of the Muses I observed likewise great store of the Male-Fir-Tree growing on this Mountain whose Turpentine is very fragrant much resembling the smell of a Nutmeg and some of that Leopards-bane whose root is like a Scorpion But her partly the cold of a backward Spring and partly the time of Year hindred me from making any further discoveries in that kind I shall only tell you what Pausanias telleth me viz. that the 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which is one kind of an Arbutus or Strawberry-Tree beareth sweeter fruit here than in any other place he knows which may well be although I took no notice of any there I saw here also a very large Tortoise newly come out of ground to enjoy the warm Sun and of which they say there is great plenty bred there We return'd to the brow of the Mountain by the same way we came and thence I had a fair and large Prospect of the Plains of Boeotia Northward and observed the Mountain Delphi of Egripo to lie exactly East of us and another of the same Island to lie East-North-East We left the way to St. Georgio and turning to our left hand descended into a Plain between the Mountain Helicon and another little Mountain the Eastern end of which comes up near to it and the Town of St. George but thence runs North-Westwards beyond Livadia which it hath under it on the North-side This Mountain from the Plain of Boeotia seems not at all distinct from the Helicon although it hath a Plain between it and that in some places I believe three or four Miles wide On the top of it on the East end we saw Granitza GRANITZA which I was told was a Town and Bishoprick under the Jurisdiction of the Archbishop of Athens Here is also a Convent of Caloires or Greekish Monks which is all I could learn of the place only from the ancients I gather that this Mountain was called by two distinct names to wit Laphytius on this end LAPHYTIUS and TELPHYSIUM mm. and Telphysium on the Western In descending we turned still round the Helicon to our left hand and in our way passed by many Fountains that issue out of the sides of that Mountain some of which run down into the Plain of Livadia as far as the Lake into which they flow others collect themselves into a Stream in this Valley One makes a fine Cascade almost from the top of the Mountain and I believe runneth from the Lake I before spake of on the top of the Helicon by its nearness to that place There was abundance of the Narcissus Flowers growing along the Banks of this Stream so proliferous that I had not before seen any the like having seven eight nine sometimes ten Flowers upon the same stalk and very fragrant Here my Guide proved to be near as ignorant and unacquainted in the Country as my self and it growing towards Night we knew not whither to go to Lodge